CITYLIFE GUIDE
JUNE/JULY 2012 JUNE/JULY 2012
PEARL OF THE MEKONG RIVER
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PEARL OF THE MEKONG RIVER
contents JUNE - JULY 2012
contents JUNE - JULY 2012
FEATURES
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P12
P22
P29
P38
Calendar - Events
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Good To Know
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Next Stop - Good To Go
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Soul of Sydney
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Dispatches
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Cambodia: What’s not to like?
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View Finder
38 >
mini guide JUNE-JULY 2012
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Recommendation of all the stunning places in Cambodia and other cities. Phnom Penh, Sihanouk Ville, Siem Reap, Koh Kong, KomPot, Kep, Battaambang, Mondulkiri, Rattanakiri, Saigon, Bangkok, Vietian.
flashback
Cambodia: What’s not to like?
P50
100
Recover all the what happened of last calendars. See what activities you missed!
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PUBLISER’s NOTE JUNE - JULY 2012
We travel to discover, to explore, and to experience. We travel to meet other people different from us, to learn about other culture stranger then ours, and to fulfill our dreams and fantasies. We know that from experience of course and working on this issue made us realize that even more. Luckily, we live in Cambodia. May you enjoy reading this issue of CityLife as much as we have enjoyed (really, we did!) making it. Whether you’re planning to cuddle up on your Heavenly Bed (P14) in hand on your dream suite, or to just go hand-in-hand with your loved one to Preah Nimeat (P38) -- safe travels everyone.
Vibol Phan PUBLISHER, CityLife Guide Magazine
vibol.p@veromediadesign.com
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All rights in this publication and the name are owned by Vero Media Design Litmited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission. All rights reserved. Opinions herein are those of the writers and not necessarily endorsed by Vero Media Design Limited. CityLife is published six time a year and distributed throughout Phnom Penh. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, or other material. To subscribe or order back issues, e-mail us at info@citylifemagz.com. You can also call 023-305-070, 023-989-037, or visit us at our office, P.G.C.T Center Building B, Level 3, Phnom Penh, Cambodia ISSN: 2223 - 1897
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Sain Tropez River House Ngon Metro Frizz Noodel House Lemon Grass Star Palace Titanic Kyo K Coffee Vego Magnolia Chicago Grill Steak House Hotels Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra Naga World Phnom Penh Hotel Angkor Miracle Royal Empire Knai Bang Chatt Intercontinental Lebiz Hotel Cara Hotel Almond Hotel Cambodiana Hotel Himawari Hotel The Quay Hotel Amara Spa Kanika Boat International Airport Phnom Penh Siem Reap Singapore Thailand Laos Vietnam
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CALENDAR June - july 2012
>
For more information please visit: www.meta-house.com 023 224 140 | 010 312 333 | #37, Sothearos Blvd, Phnom Penh.
SUN, 10/06 “GOOD-BYE DRAGON INN”: THE TAIWANESE LAST PICTURE SHOW 7PM: A Japanese tourist takes refuge from a rainstorm inside a once-popular movie theater, that is screening a martial arts classic, King Hu’s 1966 “Dragon Inn”. TUES, 12/06 JAPANESE ANIMATION FILM “ARIETTY” AND CLASSICAL CONCERT 7PM: The Clock family are fourinch-tall people who live anonymously in another family’s residence. Life changes when their daughter, Arrietty, is discovered. WED, 13/06 CHINA’S INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION: “MANUFACTURED LANDSCAPES” 7PM: Jennifer Baichwai’s MANUFACTURED LANDSCAPES (2006, 80 mins, English) focuses on the world and work of photographer EDWARD BURTYNSKY. THURS, 14/06 “LIMELIGHT”: THE RISE AND FALL OF NEW YORK CITY’S CLUB KING 7PM: As druggy as the club scene it depicts, Billy Corben’s riveting docu LIMELIGHT (2011, 102 mins) follows the career of Peter Gatien, the Canadian entrepreneur who ruled New York’s nightlife in the 1980s, into a ball of confusion and hyperbole. FRI, 15/06 “NEVER FALL DOWN”: A NEW BOOK ABOUT ARN CHORN POND’S LIFE 7PM: ARN CHORN-POND, founder of Cambodian Living Arts, is a genocide survivor and Human Rights spokesperson. He was 9 years old when the Khmer Rouge swept into power in 1975, and his story is a catalog of the brutality of the next four years.
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ENTERTAINMENT IN THEATRES
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SAT, 16/06 KHMER MEDIA STUDENTS AND THE SHADOWS OF CAMBODIA’S PAST 7PM: UNTIL TODAY – OUTGROWING THE SHADOW OF DEMOCRATIC KAMPUCHEA (Khmer, English subs) is a series of nine exciting short docus from the Department of Media and Communication (DMC) at the Royal University of Phnom Penh (RUPP). SUN, 17/06 “ONCE UPON A TIME IN ANATOLIA”: TURKISH CANNES WINNER 2011 7PM: Nuri Bilge Ceylan’s drama ONCE UPON A TIME IN ANATOLIA (2011, 150 mins, Turkish with English subs) is based on the true experience of one of the film’s writers. TUESDAY, 19/06 NEW CAMBODIAN LGBT DOCUS AND THE BEST PRIDE SHORTS 2012 7PM: The annual Cambodian Pride has evolved into a weeklong celebration for the lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender (LGBT) community. Last month’s PRIDE 2012 included new fims by young Khmer directors. We invite you to the World Premiere of Ly Polen’s DAUGHTER & THE PALMAE BLOSSOMS. WED, 20/06 BROTHER NO. 2 ON TRIAL: KHIEU SAMPHAN IS “FACING GENOCIDE” 7PM: A prominent member of the circle of leftist Khmer intellectuals studying in Paris in the 1950s, Khieu Samphan became one of the closest collaborators of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge “Head of State”. THURS, 21/06 VISIONS OF A GREENER PLANET: “SAVING THE PLANET” FILM FESTIVAL 7PM: Can ordinary people help save our planet under siege from
environmental crises? What does it take to change attitudes and lifestyles to consume and waste less? SAT, 23/06 “NOWHERE PEOPLE”: UNHCR PHOTO EXHIBITION OPENING AND FILMS 6PM: In conjuncture with World Refugee Day, UNCHR Cambodia is hosting Greg Constantine’s photo exhibition “Nowhere People”. 6th July, from 6PM Art Exhibition Opening GLOBAL HYBRID with artists from Cambodia and USA; Video Art & Short Films from South-East-Asia: Music by DJ The Dude (France) 7th July, from 6PM GREEN NIGHT – Eco-Tradefair, Films, Talks & Music feat. Skateboard-Performances by Cambodian NGO “Skateistan” 10th July, 7PM CAMBODIAN ARCHITECTURE Magazine Launch Cambodian students from the Royal University of Phnom Penh present their new magazine on Cambodian Architecture 11. July, 7PM WE WANT (U) TO KNOW – Community Media Presentation Cambodian NGO “TPO” presents a film about the Khmer Rouge genocide, made by villagers. Screening is followed by the film FORSAKEN CRIES about the genocide in Rwanda/Africa
12th – 15th July, from 6PM FILM FESTIVAL: International Human Rights Films Due to its success, the nomadic festival project “CologneOFF 20XX- videoart in a global context” continues its tour around the globe and stops in Phnom Penh 24th July, 6PM Photo Exhibition Opening: THE NEW CAMBODIA Young Cambodian photographers capture the recent development of their home country within this photo exhibition in coop. with the Cambodia Photography Club
26th July, 7PM ENVIRONMENTAL FILMS FROMt CAMBODIA AND CHINA Save the nature! Cambodian students show their award-winning films about environmental issues, followed by the screening of the documentary “Waking the Green Tiger” 28th July, 8PM BURMA NOW! NEW SHORT FILMS FROM MYANMAR The Winners of Myanmar’s first international film festival in December 2011 have produced new short films under the supervision of German doc film directors Marc Eberle and Nico Mesterharm. Watch their works tonight! 29th July, 7PM WORLD PREMIERE: NEW FILMS BY CAMBODIAN FILM MAKERS World premiere screenings! Young Cambodian filmmakers present new documentaries, produced for the Meta House “Free your Minds” festival this July.
DARK FLIGHT 3D 1 / 06 / 12 The cliches of airline disaster movies – so hilariously parodied in Airplane!, which holds up to repeated viewings – are trotted out for the horror genre in Dark Flight 407 MADAGASCAR 3 14 / 06 / 12 Alex the Lion, Marty the Zebra, Gloria the Hippo, and Melman the Giraffe are still fighting to get home to their beloved Big Apple and of course. PROMETHEUS 21 / 06 / 12 Visionary filmmaker Ridley Scott returns to the genre he helped define, creating an original science fiction epic set in the most dangerous corners of the universe. VAMPIRE HUNTER 3D 28 / 06 / 12 Abraham Lincoln. Vampire Hunter. The very words evoke a juxtaposition that is unexpected, if not downright bizarre. BRAVE 3D 5 / 7 / 12 Since ancient times, stories of epic battles and mystical legends have been passed through the generations across the rugged and mysterious Highlands of Scotland. Intouchables 5 / 7 / 12 The movie tells the development of the improbable friendship between Philippe, a wealthy tetraplegic, and Driss, a young offender of Senegalese descent, who is hired as his live-in carer. AMAZING SPIDER MAN 12 / 7 / 12 Peter Parker finds a clue that might help him understand why his parents disappeared when he was young. His path puts him on a collision course with Dr. Curt Connors, his father’s former partner.
A THOUSAND WORDS 12 / 7 / 12 A Thousand Words After stretching the truth on a deal with a spiritual guru, literary agent Jack McCall finds a Bodhi tree on his property. Its appearance holds a valuable lesson on the consequences of every word we speak. ICE AGE 4 3D 19 / 7 / 12 One of filmdom’s most beloved trios – “Ice Age’s” Manny, Diego, and Sid – embark upon their greatest adventure after cataclysm sets an entire continent adrift.
THE DARK KNIGHT RISES 26 / 7 / 12 Eight years after Batman took the fall for Two Face’s crimes, a new terrorist leader, Bane, overwhelms Gotham’s finest, and the Dark Knight resurfaces to protect a city that has branded him an enemy.
THE DICTATOR 26 / 7 / 12 The heroic story of a dictator who risks his life to ensure that democracy would never come to the country he so lovingly oppressed.
//Legend cinema
//SABAY CINEPLEX
www.legend-cinemas.com Tel: 093 300 400
www.thecineplexs.com Tel: 086 666 210
3rd floor of City Mall supermarket
5th floor of sorya shopping center
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Brazilian Steakhouse
Villa No 64, St. preah Sihanouk Blvd. Sangkat Tonle Basaac. (near Independent Monument). Phnom Penh Tel: 023 222 599 Open: 11am - 3pm / 5pm - 10:30pm 12
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to green and ‘Passadors’ in traditional Brazilian gaucho attire roam through the dining room carving a variety of sumptuous spit roasted meats with long knives right at your table. Savour 18 different varieties of perfectly roasted beef, chicken, Brazilian sausage, lamb, pork, venison, buffalo and even seafood. The juicy prime cuts are endless and it’s not long before the next tender morsel arrives and is sliced fresh from the skewer and onto your plate. When you’re had your fill, simple turn your meat card over to red (labelled ‘No! Thanks’) and enjoy the restaurant ambiance.
Clockwise: Dragon Roll, Black Angus Tenderloin, Jumbo Cocktail Glass, Up stair Bar, Stone Grill set manu
Samba
Samba Brazilian Steakhouse is Cambodia’s first and only authentic Brazilian steakhouse. This popular downtown destination has captured the imagination of people of all ages with its stellar food. Their specialty is the all you can eat Churrascaria de rodizio (traditional Brazilian “Gaucho-style” barbeque) cooked over and open flame in an elaborate custommade rotisserie grill that was flown in from Brazil. “There’s nothing else like it in the city”. Samba pays tribute to the most popular style of eating in Brazil, with a feast you must experience personally to properly appreciate. Flip your meat card
Clockwise: Dinning table at Samba, Shrimp w/ Bacon, Leg of Lamb, Pork Sausage, Pork Ham
NEW DISCOVER REGIONAL
The method of cooking food on hot rocks can be traced back to the Ancient Egyptians and Vikings. Through the introduction and development of it’s “Concept and System”, Stonegrill International have refined and perfected this age-old idea for the modern-day diner and restaurateur. Now, STONEGRILL offers a unique interactive dining experience where diners meals are served cooking at the table on super-heated natural volcanic stones. These specially selected stones, chosen for their high heat retention, are heated to 400°C/752°F in our purpose-built Stonegrill oven. Meals are presented within a protective wooden serving tray, sided by vegetables
and condiments. The high temperature obtained with the Stonegrill Method, sears the product faster and locks in the natural juices and nutrients, enhancing the full flavour and tenderness of all foods. The unique “dry cooking” method, uses no added fats or oils and sears the food without burning. This method also eliminates product shrinkage, taste transfer from cooking compounds and carbonization of the cooking surface. It ensures a clean, and completely natural food flavour, not achievable with conventional cooking methods. The result is a freshly grilled, healthy and nutritious meal with a sensational taste, unique to STONEGRILL
Stonegrill Freshly Grilled with that Unique Stonegrill Taste
# 649, Preah Sisovath Quay, Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Tel: 023 999 950 Mob: 097 7373 490 Open: 11:30am - Midnight APRIL/MAY 2012
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VIEW FINDER KEP - KAMPOT
Floating Lodge puts you on the beautiful waters of the Cambodian jungle
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ome landscapes are so compelling and beautiful you want to be immersed in them, not simply gaze from a distance. The water of the Tatai River, which winds and meanders through the lush, isolated mountains and jungles of southwest Cambodia, is one such landscape. Adventurous travelers can satiate their desire to be immersed in this stunning environment in the most literal of ways – by sleeping atop the water at the 4 Rivers Eco Lodge. The 4 Rivers lodge brings upscale accommodations to the unlikeliest of settings.
you had found your way there, you’d have had to deal with rampant lawlessness and unrest. However, with the recent introduction of roads, lodging and an emphasis on ecotourism, the Koh Kong region has officially arrived on the travel scene. Four Rivers stretches outward in both directions along a bend in the river. Visitors sleep in one of 12 tents planted atop recycled wood floats. In the case of 4 Rivers, the term “tent” takes on a much different meaning than the hot, humid, mosquito-filled dome you may remember from family camping trips.
The Koh Kong region of Cambodia has long been isolated by its geography and lack of infrastructure, making it virtually inaccessible to outsiders. Even if
Each tent is a fully gentrified, wood-supported structure with double beds, furniture, flatscreen television, fan, hot shower and mini-bar. There’s even
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Wi-Fi so you can stay in touch with the outside world – if you have any desire to do so in this secluded paradise. A deck on the river ensures that you don’t get too detached from the greater environment and allows you to watch for exotic creatures like tigers and elephants. If you can be dragged away from the serenity of your tent, 4 Rivers offers many activities that empower you to explore your surroundings. You can kayak the river just outside your door; explore the local mountains and jungles by foot, car or motorbike; fish for your dinner; and rejuvenate with a boat trip to Tatai Waterfall, “nature’s spa.” Another interesting offering is the “Time Travel” trip, which brings you to the nearby fish-
ing village of Koh Sralao for a look at local culture. Four Rivers is a bit of a jaunt from nearly everywhere, but how else can you truly escape to such a wild, pristine place? It’s about a four-hour drive from Cambodia’s capital Phnom Penh to the closest town of Tatai. From there, it’s a 10-minute boat ride to the lodge. Current listings for rooms put single occupancy stays at just under US$119 per night and double occupancy at $135 per night. If Cambodia seems a little too exotic and far off for your tastes, you should note that the development team behind 4 Rivers is considering a second floating lodge in the Caribbean. www.ecolodges.asia
NOW OPEN IN CAMBODIA
VIEW FINDER BOkor mountain
A paradise that was once the playground of the social elites and the Royalties
T Experience Paradise!
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hansur Bokor Highland Resort is a modern Khmer integrated resort nested on the highland plateau of the historic Bokor Mountain. A paradise that was once the playground of the social elites and the Royalties.
Thansur Bokor Highland Resort is the only highland integrated resort in the Greater Mekong region! The impressive build-up of 60,388 square meters at 1075 meters above sea level, boosts a total of 418 standard rooms, suites and villas, 12 conceptualized F&B hives, international entertainment and recreational games, extensive meeting, banquet and concert facilities ranging from intimate setups to 6000 theater setup, a luxurious nightlife entertainment com-
plex comprising state-of-the-art KTV and disco, a lavish all ensuite Khmer spa connected to a modern fitness center and a free form pool, a 18 hole championship golf course designed by the renowned Arnold Palmer and an impressive 1680 square meters of kids edutainment center. Coupled with the extensive recreational and exploration activities in our natural environment and historic buildings, Thansur Bokor Highland Resort is the undisputed highland hoilday and entertainment paradise in the Greater Mekong region! Bokor mountain at 1075 meters above sea level is blessed with stunning views of the Gulf of Thailand, a virgin rainforest with exotic and rich flora and fauna and with an all year round cooling mountain climate of
just 20 degrees. The best time to visit is between November to February when it is the coolest as the temperature can drop to the mid tens in the evening. It is essentially a cool, inviting and stunningly beautiful paradise in Cambodia! Bokor Mountain comes into full play when the mist descends and being able to touch the clouds is simply magical. Because of its beauty.
Tel: 033 683 8888 033 683 9999
Dark Mocha Twist Coffee Caramel Twist Cream Velvet Choc Chip Trust Me! English Toffee Latte Peppermint Peddy Latte Velvet Chocolate Iced Caramel Macchiato Iced HI-SPEED Americano Espresso Classic Caramel Macchiato Strawberry Twist Kiwi Twist
reservations@thansurbokor.com
#213, Preah Monivong Blvd, Sangkat Monor Rom, Khan 7 Makara, Phnom Penh, Cambodia Tel: 023 885 193
THE GUIDE THE INSIDE TRACK ON WHERE TO GO & WHAT TO DO
p. 20 NEXT STOP p. 22 SOUL OF SYDNEY p. 29 DISPATCHES p. 38 PEARL OF THE MEKONG RIVER
THE LITTLE GARDEN, BOUTIQUE HOTEL IN PHNOM PENH The Little Garden, housed in a modernist style villa is located in a quiet residential area of BKK I, offering customer a tranquil environment, free from the hustle and bustle of central Phnom Penh. Conveniently situated with easy access to some of Phnom Penh’s main tourist attractions including the Central Market, Russian Market, Riverside, National Museum, Royal Palace and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum,
> Cambodia What not to like? Page 54 Pluse: > Photos from where we have been
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BOOKING Tel: (+855) 23 217 817 Mobile: (+855) 78 590 655 E-mail: info@littlegarden.asia Website: www.littlegarden.asia Villa 8A, St. 398, Boeung Keng Kang I, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
NEXT STOP PREAH VIHEAR
OUR FIRST VISIT TO PREAH VIHEAR TEMPLE
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his temple is located on the top of Dangrek Mountain, which is about 600 meter, above sea level. It is a historical and UNESCO World Heritage Site (since 2008), managed by Preah Vihear Authority. We left Siem Reap at 7:45am and arrived at 11:15am without stop. The travel distance is about the same between Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville. Before, it would take five days to travel the same distance, with dirty, muddy, bumpy roads and landmine dangers. We went there by using two cars and we did need two pick-up trucks to reach the top. We spent around three hours visiting the temple and came down to have lunch at 2pm. We have made some pictures and I got opportunity to talk to soldiers and policemen on duty. Preah Vihear is really a Jewel, very beautiful and a charming temple; There are still traces of the war, bunkers. We were accompanied by one soldier and one policeman, who explain us in detail on what happened during the fighting; Few hundreds of people have visited the temple on that day, mostly Cambodians with some western tourists; We will return again soon, so that we will have more quiet time for reflection, especially in the morning hours to catch the best scenery. On the way back, we visited Anlong Veng and Ta Mok’s house on the Dangrek Mountain, 16 Km from Anlong Veng district town. It is important to note that Anlong Veng was one of the strongholds of the Khmer Rouge, home to many KR leaders including Pol Pot, Nuon Chea, Khieu Samphan, Son Sen etc. The district town itself has been developed a lot, in comparison to what I have seen during my last visit few years ago. At 5pm, we returned to Siem Reap and arrived at 7:45. It means, we were exactly 12 hours on the way. It was exhausted for us all, but we were happy to visit this wonderful temple. 20
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Please note: The road connecting Siem Reap provincial town to Preah Vihear temple was recently rehabilitated, with very good quality. It is still quiet along the way, not so many traffics. People live from place to place and in some districts it is crowded. From Siem Reap to Anlong Veng, the distance is about 140 Km. From Anlong Veng to Preah Vihear temple is about 111 Km, passing Tropaing Prasath, Sra-Aem etc. From the bottom to reach the top, we do need to ride the car or motorbike offered by the Preah Vihear Authority. It costs 10,000 Riel (U$ 2.5) for one person for one motorbike; one pick-up truck costs 100,000 Riel (U$ 25) for up to ten persons. Due to safety reason and mountainous road conditions, I would highly recommend that visitors should make use of this service. The old road was constructed by the Engineering Regiment of the Arms Forces is being enlarged and re-constructed. We do not need to pay entry fee, but just need to register and getting tickets for statistics purpose.
NEXT STOP SOLOMON ISLAND - SOUTH PACIFIC
Sydney doesn’t need any introductions but dig a little deeper and you’ll discover a whole new world waiting to be explored and experienced. Here’s our little Insider Guide to the city that often makes it to the World’s Top 10 Most Desirable Cities to Live in
Soul f Sydney
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When the First Fleet arrived on January 26, 1788 at the shores of what is now known as Sydney Harbour, none of the 1,030 passengers – and Sydney’s fi rst residents – could envision what this city would become. What started as a small settlement located around present-day The Rocks, has quickly become one of the world’s most stylish cities. This is a place where the ocean, sun, sand and people cohabit harmoniously, creating the most exciting place in Australia. It is home to over 4 million people made up of close to two hundred nations, houses one of the world’s most iconic landmarks and boasts some of Australia’s fi nest beaches. This is Sydney! To those who are visiting Sydney for the fi rst time, it may seem that the action centres on Circular Quay by which the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge are located. But Sydney is much more than that. Those who take time to go beyond the typical guide book recommendations will soon discover that Sydney is a city of many faces and facets. Foodies will be in gourmet
heaven, where cuisines from all over the world crash and collide. Shoppers will be in paradise browsing through the colourful weekend markets, malls and boutiques. Nature lovers will be impressed by how easy it is to escape the busy city to fi nd themselves in the bush or a quiet cove. Culture vultures will never tire of the endless museums, galleries and the various festivals held throughout the year. And for those who want nothing more than a relaxing holiday, the sandy beaches around the city are just too precious to miss. It really is a spectacular place, and Sydney knows exactly how to cater for every taste and temperament. One often wonders why this stunning city is not the country’s capital, but Sydneysiders are pleased that politicians reside faraway in Canberra instead of Sydney. In that way, Sydney can retain its never-ending-holiday, fun and frolicking character. But don’t limit yourself to the surface offerings of the city. There really is a whole new world waiting to be discovered
COCKATOO ISLAND Located just a short ferry ride from Sydney, Cockatoo Island is the biggest and without a doubt the most interesting island in Sydney Harbour. Formerly a prison, an industrial school and fi nally a shipyard, now, it acts as a huge outdoor museum and in 2010, was added to the World Heritage List. This unusual island is a great place to get lost among massive industrial buildings and learn about the lesser known side of Sydney. Visitors are encouraged to take a self-guided audio tour, which explains the history of the place. The highlight of the island is its camping ground that provides amazing views of the harbour!
TABÚ
GETTING THERE: At Circular Quay Wharf, catch any ferry heading to Parramatta or Balmain. OPENING TIMES: All Day. The Visitor Centre is open from 10am to 4pm daily. ADMISSION: Access to the island is free. Camping starts at AUD35 per night. www.cockatooisland.gov.au
LEFT: Queen Victoria Building was designed by George McRae and was completed in 1898. The Romanesque architecture was specially planned for the building so the then-government could employ out-of-work craftsmen. Originally, the building housed a concert hall, coffee shops, offices, showrooms, warehouses and a wide variety of traders such as tailors, mercers, hairdressers and florists. PRECEEDING PAGE: Cockatoo Island is a former imperial prison, industrial school, reformatory, gaol and one of Australia’s biggest shipyards during the 20th century. The fi rst of its two dry docks was built by convicts and was completed in 1857.
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V. TABU RESTAURANT & LOUNGE (Near Russian Embessy) 61 SOTHEAROS BLVD, SANGKAT TONLE BASSAC, KHAN CHAMKAMORN 077-978-789 / 087 789 168 OPEN FROM 9AM TO 12AM APRIL/MAY 2012
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MANLY TO SPIT BRIDGE WALK Manly to Spit Bridge Scenic Walk is one of Sydney’s best outdoor attractions. But it is hard to decide which is more exciting – the walk itself or the ferry ride from Sydney’s city centre to Manly. On the way, the ferry passes through the entire harbour, providing breathtaking views of the Opera House, the Harbour Bridge and exclusive harbour suburbs. The Scenic Walk starts near the ferry terminal in Manly, just 15 kms from Sydney’s central business district, but the place feels miles away. The 10-km walk takes about three hours to complete and the path meanders through Australian bush grounds and some spectacular coves and beaches, combined with stunning views of the harbour. GETTING THERE: At Circular Quay catch a ferry heading to Manly (30 mins). Once in Manly follow the Scenic Walk signs. OPENING TIMES: All day. ADMISSION: Free. www.manly.nsw.gov.au/attractions/walking-tracks/manly-scenic-walkway
SYDNEY FISH MARKET The biggest market of its kind in the southern hemisphere, Sydney Fish Market is a place for seafood shopping and tasting. The selection, colours and the freshness of the marine life in the retail section are overwhelming. Most of the market’s activity happens behind closed doors. Every morning, a massive seafood auction takes place here. Hundreds of restaurateurs and shop owners from all over Australia come here in search of the best seafood in the country.
Good news is that it is possible to observe the exciting process of bidding. Famous ‘Behind the Scenes at the Market’ tour offers visitors a chance to learn about where all that seafood comes from, how it is sold and which famous chefs come here to buy supplies. GETTING THERE: Catch the Metro Light Trail from Central Station, Haymarket or Darling Harbour and get off at the Fish Market stop. OPENING TIMES: Market opens daily from 7am to 4pm. Tours at 6.40am on Mondays, Thursdays and Fridays. Bookings are essential. ADMISSION: Market – Free, Tours – AUD20. www.sydneyfi shmarket.com.au
NEWTOWN The suburb of Newtown, located a short train ride west of the city, is considered Sydney’s most trendy and funky district. Life in Newtown revolves around King Street. Its entire length is occupied by restaurants, bars, cafés, pubs, bookstores, second hand shops and boutiques. If you are into food, this is the place to be. Whether it is Chinese, Peruvian, Japanese or Spanish cuisine – Newtown has it all. But it is worth going beyond King Street, the restaurants and the shops. Newtown is famous for street art, mostly colourful graffi ti. It is worth getting lost among the side streets and alleys to marvel at these very exciting expressions of art. GETTING THERE: Newtown can be reached by a train from Central Station or Town Hall. OPENING TIMES: All day ADMISSION: Free www.sydney.com/destinations/sydney/inner-sydney/newtown
MILSONS POINT Milsons Point, located at the northern end of the Sydney Harbour Bridge, provides one of the most spectacular vantage points in Sydney. But surprisingly few tourists make it here. The view is jaw-dropping, especially at sunset, but no matter what time of the day, you will not be disappointed. It really is a postcard-perfect location with spectacular views of Sydney’s Central Business District, the Opera House and of course, the Bridge. Check out nearby Luna Park for mind-blowing vistas of Sydney’s most iconic landmarks, and the best place to watch them is from the top of Luna Park’s Ferris wheel. GETTING THERE: Walk across the bridge or catch a train from Central Station, Town Hall or Wynyard to Milsons Point OPENING TIMES: All day, best late afternoon and after dusk ADMISSION: Free
CABRAMATTA Cabramatta, located 30 kms west of Sydney’s CBD, is home to the largest Vietnamese community in Australia. Over a third of its residents are of Vietnamese origin, but Chinese, Thai, Laotian and Khmer form a large part of the local community as well. Cabramatta has it all – Buddhist temples, Asian shops and markets, posh restaurants and cheap eateries offering delicious Asian food. Monks frequent the neighbourhood, old Asian women wearing traditional dresses go about their daily chores, while Mandarin and Vietnamese is much spoken here. It is also the best place in Sydney to try pho, the famous Vietnamese noodle soup. GETTING THERE: Catch Bankstown or Inner West line train from Central Station or Town Hall, about 1 hour away. OPENING TIMES: Day time ADMISSION: Free www.sydney.com/destinations/sydney/sydney-west/cabramatta
TARONGA ZOO This almost 100-year-old zoo is much loved by the locals. Housing over 26,000 animals, both native to Australia like koalas and kangaroos, and from all over the world, it is a must-see for animal and nature lovers. The zoo is located a short ferry-ride from Sydney’s centre and is another spot offering breathtaking views of the city. The most famous residents of the zoo – the giraffes – live here with a million dollar view of the harbour. The zoo is huge, so take your time to explore it. GETTING THERE: Catch a Taronga Zoo ferry from Circular Quay OPENING TIMES: 9am to 5pm ADMISSION: Adults AUD44, children AUD22 http://taronga.org.au/taronga-zoo
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SYDNEY STAPLES You can’t quite visit Sydney without seeing these Old Faithfuls.
SYDNEY OPERA HOUSE One of the most recognisable buildings in the world, Sydney Opera House has been the symbol of the city since its opening in 1973. Its shape doesn’t cease to amaze visitors to Australia, and remains the most photographed and visited attraction in Sydney. Performances are held throughout the year and attending one of them is the best way to experience the Opera House. www.sydneyoperahouse.com
SYDNEY HARBOUR BRIDGE The only landmark in Sydney that rivals the Opera House! It is known affectionately as ‘The Coathanger’ and remains the most important bridge in the city, connecting the city’s south and north. Those wanting to experience the bridge to its fullest should try the Bridge Climb – an experience that allows visitors to climb and stand atop this amazing structure. www.sydneyharbourbridge.info
BONDI BEACH Bondi Beach is an institution in itself. This famous beach lures hundreds of people every day. Backpackers can’t resist it, surfers adore it, Sydneysiders love visiting it on weekends and local residents think it is the best place in the world to live in. The best way to experience the buzz is to spend a day by the beach, catch some sun, take a dip in the warm water and ogle at the bronzed gods and goddesses at the beach. www.bondivillage.com
QUEEN VICTORIA BUILDING
WATSONS BAY AND SOUTH HEAD South Head is one of two stone formations forming the entrance of the Pacifi c Ocean to the Sydney Harbour. A short costal walk on the South Head Heritage Trail starts at Watsons Bay wharf and offers great views of the city, North Head and the Pacifi c Ocean. Camp Cove beach here is beautiful with its calm waters – perfect for children. This is also where Hornby Lighthouse is located. The walk ends at the Gap, a high cliff which incidentally is an infamous suicide spot with spectacular ocean views. There are a few great eateries in the area, with the Doyles seafood restaurant topping them all. GETTING THERE: From Circular Quay catch a Watsons Bay ferry OPENING TIMES: All day ADMISSION: Free www.sydney.com.au/watsons-bay.htm
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The most elegant and the oldest of Sydney’s shopping centres, QVB as it is known among Sydneysiders, is one of the most impressive examples of colonial architecture in Sydney. The interiors are impressive and even those who are not keen on shopping will fi nd the building interesting. It is worth going up to the quieter top fl oors to enjoy a cup of coffee and the piano music played there daily. www.qvb.com.au
SYDNEY TOWER At 309 metres, the tower is the highest structure in Sydney and the observatory deck located at a height of 250 metres provides great 360° views of the city. Be it the early morning, middle of the day or sunset, views of the city and the surrounding areas are simply awe inspiring. www.sydneytowereye.com.au
ROYAL BOTANICAL GARDENS There is no better place than the Gardens for a picnic, a stroll or a rest after a day of sightseeing. This massive park acts as the green lung for Sydney’s city centre. The location, just by the bay, is spectacular. Trees and plants are not the only attraction here. The Gardens is also home to thousands of bats and hundreds or cockatoo parrots. www.rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au
DISPATCHES
p. 36 LAOS INFOMATION p. 38 PEARL OF THE MEKONG RIVER
DISPATCHES DESTINATION - LAOS
Laos Exotic Vacation Destination
The weather in Laos boasts two seasons: wet and dry. The wet season, where temperatures average 84ยบ F daily, lasts from May to November. The dry season occurs in December through April. Two major festivals are celebrated in Laos, and many tourists plan vacations to enjoy at least one of these events.
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PHOTO BY MINISTRY OF CULTURE AND TOURISM THAILAND
A
s a vacation destination, Laos is known for its beautiful countryside, exciting celebrations, and unique food. Village markets add to the local scene and flavour of the country, and here visitors will find crafts and souvenirs that can only be purchased in Laos. The Mekong River, which forms a large portion of the western boundary with Thailand, boasts one of the most beautiful tourist attractions in the country. Known as the Khon Phapheng Falls, south of Don Khong, the area features an exciting stretch of rapids and cascades that will thrill any visitor. Laos culture boasts theatre, folk music unlike any other in the region, and a rich history of art. The folk music of Laos, called Lam, is rich with vocals and melodies provided by the khaen, a pipe made of bamboo that is native to the country. French influence brought ballet and a history of French cuisine to Laos. In the capital city of Vientiane, baguettes are sold on the street and French restaurants are very popular.
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The Vixakha Bouxa, celebrated around May, is held in honor of the birth, enlightenment, and death of Buddha. This festival features dances, parades, theatre shows, and puppet shows and is celebrated by all. The Festival of the Rockets, or Boun Bang Fay, is celebrated during the hot, dry season. This festival is growing more and more popular, visitors coming to enjoy the fireworks and homemade rockets that are set off during celebration. Travelers to Laos will find this beautiful place is truly a delight to all the senses. Laos cuisine is unlike the food found in any other region. The main staple of the country is sticky rice, and it is served with almost every meal. Traditionally, the meal is only over when the rice basket is closed. A favoured method of cooking among the people of Laos is grilling. “Ping� means grilled, or grilling, though visitors from the West will find that meat in Laos is drier than what they are used to. A hot sauce called chaew that is often served with meat adds additional flavour and moisture. Every visitor should try the national dish of Laos at least once, known as laap. This is a spicy mixture of meat and fish, and though it is sometimes served raw it can be eaten cooked. Green papaya salad is another popular dish, called tam mak houng in country. Though cooking methods are similar to ours, many of the flavours used in Laos cooking are not. Banana flowers, ginger flowers, bamboo shoots, shiitake mushrooms, and wood ear mushrooms are all popular ingredients in Laos cuisine. Also, visitors may be surprised to learn that fresh, raw greens are almost always served with meat dishes in Laos, and food is eaten at room temperature. Many people in Laos eat with their hands, mainly because sticky rice is hard to handle any other way. In traditional Lao homes, having a guest in the house is an occasion that requires a great feast. Lao coffee is known as Pakxong coffee, and the strong brew is said to be an acquired taste. Laos boasts two popular alcoholic beverages, lao hai and lao lao. Lao hai, which means jar alcohol, is traditionally served from an earthen jug and is consumed through a straw. Lao lao is a drink more like whiskey, and the more popular of the two with tourists. Those who travel to Laos will discover a country rich in culture and history, offering aweinspiring sights, sounds, and tastes. For tourists seeking an exotic destination, Laos is the perfect tropical getaway.
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THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW LAOS INFORMATION - EAT + SLEEP
Expect a new travel experience. Expect streets to be quite busy with bicycles and motorcycles, but a pace that you associate more readily with a country town. Expect peacefulness and a more relaxed and simple way of life. Expect a less developed country with a sense of timelessness, and things to happen in their own time. Experiences that will create fond memories that will stay with you forever. Experiences such as rising at dawn in Luang Prabang to watch hundreds of saffron robed monks move silently through the streets to collect alms (daily offerings of food). Participating in a traditional Basi blessing ceremony, where a village elder calls on guardian spirits to protect and watch over you. For those that like to see handicrafts – witnessing delicate traditional fabrics being hand woven on looms that have remain unchanged for decades. Enjoying delicious Laotian and international cuisine or sipping freshly ground Laotian coffee from a street side vendor. When it’s time to take a break, watching the sun set over the Mekong while sipping a cold drink from a table on its banks. Expect the unexpected, but expect to fall in love with Laos!
EAT Lao Kitchen We are a locally owned and operated Lao food restaurant located in downtown Vientiane. Our goal is to provide our customers with the best authentic Lao food in Vientiane. Across from the KP Hotel, in between the Xayoh and Home Ideal, 021 254 332 Douang Deuane Restaurant & Wine Bar This is a great restaurant for a quiet dinner in Vientiane. They have very good local food and a very helpful staff. Try the vegetable laap and the fish in tamarind - excellent! Th Francois Nginn, Vientiane, Laos (021) 241154 Kua Lao Restaurant This classy restaurant is a suitable start for one’s tour of Laos. Its ambiance, friendly service, good food is a very refreshing beginning to allay one’s fear of a country more
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famed for its terrorist past than a tourist hotspot. The food, we had local plus Chinese fusion, is good and reasonably priced. The dinner also comes complete with cultural dances. The service is excellent. Advance bookings are necessary. 134 Samsenthai Road | Thatdam intersection, Vientiane, Laos (021) 215 777
SLEEP Ansara Hotel is Vientiane’s small-size boutique destination that will delight the visitor at first sight. A unique visual treat in the heart of the capital, the hotel combines quiet sophistication with genuine functionality. PO Box 622, Quai Fa Ngum, Ban Vat Chan Tha, Hom 5 Muang Chanthabury, Vientiane, Lao PDR. Tel: + 856 21 213 514/8 Lao Green Park Boutique Hotel and Resort Vientiane is capturing a Lao style orientation with a finest contemporary architecture of Laos. The elegance of the interiors, both historic and contemporary, and glorious settings are combine to create the most distinguished collection of stylish, luxury and relaxing hotels in Vientiane, the capital of Laos (Lao PDR). 12 KHOUVIENG ROAD, P.O. BOX 9698, VIENTIANE, LAOS TEL: +856 21 264097 Settha Palace Hotel, In the heart of bustling Vientiane stands a remarkable hotel. Built in the early part of the last century, circa 1932, and painstakingly restored to its former imperial glory, the Settha Palace Hotel serves as a testament to the long lost era of classical elegance, gracious service and French colonial charm. 6 Pang Kham Street, P.O. Box: 1618, Vientiane, Tel: (856-21) 217581-2.
slowly being erected and Don Khong is on the grid, though Don Det and Don Khon will have to wait until at least 2008. In the meantime most homes are linked to one generator or another and at night you’ll see extended families sitting glued to the new-found joy of Thai soap opera. The villages of Si Phan Don are often named for their position at the upriver or downriver ends of their respective islands. The upriver end is called hǔa (head), the downriver end is called hǎang (tail). Hence Ban Hua Khong is at the northern end of Don Khong, while Ban Hang Khong is at the southern end. The French left behind a defunct short railway (the only railway ever actually completed in Laos), a couple of river piers, and a few colonial buildings. Other attractions include some impressive rapids and the Khon Phapheng waterfall, where the Mekong suddenly drops in elevation at the Cambodian border. The increasingly rare Irrawaddy dolphin also likes to hang out in the Mekong south of the falls.
WATERFALLS SCENES Below: Fisher man crossing the powerfull waterfalls
Pearl of the Mekong river
From Laos
There must be some rule in Laos that says the further south you go the more relaxed it becomes, because just when you thought your blood pressure couldn’t drop any more, you arrive in Si Phan Don… The name literally means ‘Four Thousand Islands’, and the few you are likely to visit on this scenic 50km-long stretch of the Mekong are so chilled you’re l iable to turn into a hammock-bound icicle.
every sand bar) of islands and islets. The largest of the permanent islands are inhabited year round and offer fascinating glimpses of tranquil riveroriented village life – ‘more detached from time than from the riverbank’ as one source described it. Communities tend to be self-sufficient, growing most of their own rice, sugar cane, coconut and vegetables, catching fish and weaving textiles as needed.
During the rainy season this section of the Mekong fills out to a breadth of 14km, the river’s widest reach along its 4350km journey from the Tibetan Plateau to the South China Sea. During the dry months between monsoons the river recedes and leaves behind hundreds (or thousands if you count
Island life is changing, however, and electricity and tourism are the big drivers. Don Khong attracts travellers looking for better lodgings while Don Det has become one of Southeast Asia’s backpacker magnets, with all that entails; Don Khon falls somewhere in between. Power pylons are
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WATERFALLS SCENES Clockwise from right: Up hill road to Preah Nimeat, Sunset over river, New road to Preah Nimeat, Taking a boat to waterfalls, Beautiful sunset, On the way to Thala Barivat, Other beautiful sunset, Getting to our boat, Entrance to Preah Nimeat Falls
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WATERFALLS SCENES Clockwise from right: Powerful waterfalls, Pic 5 A man trying to catch fish, beautiful horizontal Preah Nimeat waterfalls
Khone Phapheng waterfalls, tagged as pearl of the mekong river which is just opposite of Preah Nimeat falls, and assumed to be the niagara falls of southeast asia. being the largest cascade in the southeast asia, khone phapheng offers impressive views on its up to 15m high and 1 km rock formation, forcing the usually calm flow of the mekong river to roar through its narrow gorges and forming a natural obstacle for shipping. The Khone Falls is the main reason that the Mekong is not fully navigable into China. The falls are characterised by thousands of islands and countless waterways, giving the area its name Si Phan Don or ‘The 4,000 islands’.
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WATERFALLS SCENES Sunet over Preah Nimeat Falls
From Cambodia
Preah Nimeat is located in Preah Vihear Province, there are to accessible road to the falls. From Phnom Penh to Preah Nimeat: Go your way on Nationa highway 6 to Siem Reap, once pass Kampong Thom, you will see a split road, take a right turn to road 64. Then you well get to a town call Tbaeng Meanchey. From Stung Treng to Preah Nimeat: Once you get in town, look for a ferry boat to cross to other side, take the main road until you get to Thala Barivat province, take a right turn and all the way to Preah Nimeat. Which is right to Laos boarder. Time of Travel: 3 to 5 hour from either province.
and Kitchen facilities for your convenience while staying at the country. Designed to make your stay, more comfortable, while on holiday or business trips. All Suites are spacious, clean and well appointed. The Bali Resort & Apartments is a suitable location to stay as it provides a blend of convenience, comfort, assistance and warmth at an affordable price, enabling you to call it home. However, they are not located exactly on the proper city but about 5 minutes to drive from the Resort to the Capital city of Cambodia. Bali Resort Restaurant serves delicious local and international cuisine. There is also abundance of food all over town to try on. You would be missing out a lot if you do not savor our local delicacies. Cambodian food is a must try as not only it is cheap, it is also convenient and tasty. There is also a lot of local restaurant around Bali Resort &Apartments if you choose to eat outside the Service Apartment and a lot of international cuisine offered in the city with different setting and ambiance that is sure to make you come for more. There are more than enough recreational activities for the entire family at Bali Resort & Apartments, the ultimate choices of recreational facilities include a Billiard table, swimming pool for kids and adults. Other facilities include Mini Mart open for 24hours, internet access and ample parking space. The best thing about staying at the Bali Resort & Apartments is that it is nearly to the airport, walking distance from all major restaurants and centre, entertainment and night market. For a hassle free holiday, choose to stay at the Bali Resort & Apartments in Cambodia where your comfort and convenience is our priority.
Your comfort and convenience is our priority Located amidst the beautiful surroundings, affording holiday makers stunning panoramic views of the Phnom Penh, and spectacular sunsets, Bali Resort & Apartments in 2004 Road, Phnom Penh City next to Northbridge International School in Cambodia offers 1, 2, bedrooms apartments. Each of the 1, 2 bedrooms apartments comes fully equipped with a spacious private living room, dining area, kitchenette and a balcony, from which guests can appreciate the superb views of the city of Cambodia. The 8-storey Bali Resort & Apartments towers in Phnom Penh, Cambodiaoffers from one bedroom apartment to three bedroom apartments that cater to your need whether for a group or friends or for the whole family without wanting the need of an attached room like any other hotels. The Suite in Bali Resort & Apartments in Phnom Penh, Cambodia is equipped with television, telephone, individually controlled air-conditioning, 48
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Add: 2004 Rd, Phnom Penh City. Next to Cambodia Country Club Tel: 089 975 252 | 023 691 352 | 012 892 036 Email: baliapartment88@yahoo.com.tw baliapartment66@yahoo.com Web: www.baliresortcambodia.com
CITYLIFE brings print magazine to life to launch Cambodia first iPhone magazine portal Check on: http://m.citylifemagz.com
Cambodia: What’s not to like? And the answer is nothing. I love the place, thankfully, as it’s been the place I’ve wanted to visit for 15 years, along with Peru. One down, one to go…just give me another 15 years, apparently I don’t like to be rushed.
A stunning country with a sad history
The drive down to Phnom Penh (pronounced P-num Pen) from Si Phan Don was surprisingly smooth with only the one tense moment when we all handed the guide our passports and he sent us off out of Laos towards Cambodia without them, where we waited for about 45 minutes wondering if we were going to be stranded in no-man’s land for the rest of our probably numbered days. For a change, we had actually thought ahead and booked accommodation meaning we didn’t have to traipse around the place with our bags late at night looking for a place to stay. Luxury. As I am sure you are all aware, Cambodia has encountered a lot of violence and troubles over the past few decades with Phnom Penh bearing witness to a lot of this, and this is reflected in the state of the city, although I couldn’t tell you what was due to the violence undertaken there and what was down to the general lack of maintenance. To give you some idea of the grot
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and grime, even the monks wear flip flops in Phnom Penh. There wasn’t all that much to sight see in the capital so we stayed there for just two and a half days which was ample time, although it did involve me trying to gain entry to visit the Golden Palace twice with no joy so, following the information provided in my guidebook, I got up early doors on my final morning determined to get in and see the place. For your information, its opening hours are 8.00am – 11.00am and then 14.00 – 17.00pm (I think), and not 7.30am as the guidebook states (thanks Lonely Planet), yet as I discovered they actually stop you entering about 45 minutes before the closing times and the queues are ridiculous for the afternoon session. Thankfully I didn’t have to break and enter to see the place and it was worth the effort(s) so definitely go and visit the Golden Palace and Silver Pagoda, a room inlaid with silver tiles, when you visit Phnom Penh, and make sure you do it first thing in the morning as it’s very quiet and peaceful before the hordes of tourists descend. The other places we visited in the capital were the National Museum, although sadly you cannot take photographs inside, Wat Phnom (meh), Independence Monument and the Liberation Monument, the waterfront where you can witness just some of the extraordinary Cambodian exercise classes in the evening to some interesting choices of music (I was highly tempted to join in), and the Central and Russian Markets for the requisite shopping. I also happened to stumble across a produce market for the locals on one of my trips to the Golden Palace gates, which was absolute chaos and absolutely brilliant, albeit with some interesting aromas and I’d recommend you watch your step. The main strip for drinking and eating is down on the waterfront and there are tons of places catering to us westerners with all manner of food, sleazy bars and clubs offering you pretty much whatever you want (Phnom Penh has quite a reputation), and you are inundated with tuk tuks, motos, books and souvenirs. In complete contrast to the opulence provided for the tourists is the heartbreaking poverty which is everywhere you look: babies sleeping on the streets, children in filthy clothes relentlessly trying to sell trinkets, copied DVDs and books all day and night to provide for their families, and people with mutilated bodies, probably related to the reign of the Khmer Rouge and the ongoing problem the country has with landmines 52
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and bombs left over from the Vietnam War and the Khmer Rouge. Crime is rife in Phnom Penh, although I didn’t witness any thankfully, and there is a very noticeable and disproportionate divide between the rich and the poor. On my second day in the city I went to visit the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, more commonly known as S-21, a former school where the Khmer Rouge and its leader, Pol Pot, imprisoned and tortured civilians, and the Killing Fields (just one of the many), where millions of people (men, women and children) were taken to be executed, which is located just outside the city. Both of these are horrendous, truly depressing and sombre places but must be visited to try and capture even the slightest insight into just what the people of Cambodia have been through. What I find difficult to comprehend is that anyone my age and above in Cambodia lived through the bloody Khmer Rouge regime and anyone younger than me is living with the terrible aftermath on a daily basis, but then I suppose I am knocking on a bit. Upon a recommendation, I read a couple of books by a lady, Loung Ung, who lived through the Khmer Rouge to get some idea of what it was like and whilst I obviously cannot fully appreciate the horrors that occurred, I highly recommend her books, ‘First They Killed My Father’ and ‘Lucky Child’, amongst others. At S-21 there are 14 graves for those found when the place was liberated in 1979 by the Vietnamese, and they have placed pictures of their tortured bodies in the cells, along with the iron beds (they didn’t have mattresses) they lay on, whilst the blood stains are still visible on the floors. There’s barbed and razor blade wire on the windows and walkways, used to prevent people from jumping to their deaths rather than be tortured, countless tiny, wooden and concrete cells, the gallows, shackles and weapons of torture, and an abundance of haunting photographs of those who were detained there, available due to the Khmer Rouge’s impeccable records. There are notices up telling people not to smile or laugh which is rather disappointing as why anyone would laugh or smile whilst there is incomprehensible. With regards to the Killing Fields, they have a memorial holding some clothing and skulls of those found in the mass graves, a tree where children were tied to and beaten to death, plenty of unearthed mass graves, and pieces of tattered clothing and bones are coming out of the ground everywhere so you don’t know where to step as
you are basically standing on hundreds of bodies. Truly horrific, sickening and depressing yet something I feel everyone must visit and experience if visiting Cambodia, and I recommend getting the audio guide to accompany your visit. Apparently, there are still a few of the Khmer Rouge leaders waiting to be tried for their crimes who appear to have the audacity to deny they did anything wrong. It’s probably a good job I’m not a lawyer. Then, in complete contrast to the horrors of the Killing Fields, we took a quad bike ride around the local villages, stopping to watch the sunset over the Cambodian countryside whilst sipping juice from a fresh, green coconut. Now that was top, and all the impossibly cute, local children come running out to the roadside to wave and shout hello. We had bought some colouring books and crayons to distribute to them but I couldn’t decide on the most equitable way to issue them so I wussed out and left them with the owner of the quad biking company to issue. For all I know his office walls could very well be covered with recently completed and suspiciously impeccably coloured in pictures.
From Phnom Penh we headed over to Sihanoukville, a beach town on the western coast of the country, for a couple of days. It’s basically the Costa del Sol of Cambodia and Mike was amazed at the development the place has undertaken since he was last there two years ago. I’m not really a fan of beach resorts so two days was definitely enough for me as there is nothing to do there other than laze around on the beach by day and eat and drink by night. Not surprisingly, the place was full of westerners and overly friendly touts trying to get you into their bar with offers of stupendously cheap alcohol. We then headed up to Siem Reap, which I discovered is pronounced as See-Em Ree-Ep, for a visit to some little-known temples, and this meant having to go back to Phnom Penh and change buses…all routes lead to Phnom Penh in Cambodia by the look of things. We spent five days in Siem Reap, including Christmas Day, and it was totally worth it. To gain entrance to the Angkor Archaeological Site you need to purchase a ticket which will allow you to visit all but two of the temples which are located further out and I didn’t
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bother with. You have the choice of a one day, three day (to be used over 7 days) or five day ticket (to be used over a month) and the common option is the three day ticket, although a lot of people tend to only do two days as you do get pretty templed out. I did three full days whereas Mike, having visited before, managed two full days. I loved it and could have done more, but then this is what I came travelling for. Sadly, my camera now has three small scratches on its lens, apparently a common defect of the shutter on the Canon G12 Powershot (still a top, top camera though, I highly recommend it), so some of my photos will have a small smudge if they’ve been taken in strong sunlight for which I can only apologise for. And curse Canon for on a daily basis (still a top, top camera though, thanks Mr. Canon). On our first day we hired bicycles and headed off to the site which is about 7km out of Siem Reap. First stop was the mighty Angkor Wat which was covered in scaffolding and green netting. Of course. It was still impressive and worth the wait but do you know what? It wasn’t my favourite. And that wasn’t due to the scaffolding. I’m not entirely sure which is my favourite but Angkor Thom, which includes Bayon, the one with hundreds of faces carved into the stones, is right up there, along with Ta Prohm, the infamous one from Tomb Raider which has the massive trees growing through and over the walls, and Banteay Samre is one of my personal favourites too. The entire place really does deserve its reputation as one of the must-sees in the world, and the locals seem
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to love having their wedding photos taken in Angkor Wat: we must have seen at least 6 different wedding parties there. We attempted to get to Phnom Bakheng for sunset on the first day but were too late so we headed home, rather saddle sore, for an early start the next day, which just so happened to be Christmas Day. We donned our Santa hats and our tuk tuk picked us up at 5.00am so that we could watch the sun rise over Angkor Wat…along with a rather large number of other people. It was definitely worth the effort and will be a rather memorable Christmas Day, although it did take rather a lot of persuasion to get Mickey G to wear his Santa hat for the day, despite it being his idea. We headed out that evening for our Christmas meal, a Khmer eggplant lasagne for me which was lovely but not a patch on Mama’s Christmas dinner, dammit, and stopped off at an internet cafe to call the folks. As I can gabble rather a lot, Mickey G left me to it and said he was going shopping for souvenirs and would return in 20-30 minutes. An hour later, and countless tuk tuk offers, I was still waiting for his return getting more and more grumpy and hungry so I left a note for Mike with the lady at the desk and headed off to a pub. Who should I bump into but Mr. Green at the end of his second pint. It turns out he said he was off for a pint in Molly Malone’s and I was to meet him there in 20-30 minutes. I guess women can’t multi-task. The final temple day and Mike lazed around Siem Reap whilst I hired a moto (you can’t hire a motorbike to drive yourself in Siem
Reap) to head to some temples and waterfalls further afield, taking in the national landmine museum and a butterfly farm along the way, before catching the sunset at one of the temples, Pre Rup. Within 5 minutes I had lost full contact with the bike so I clung on with both hands and a big grin on my face. 10 minutes later I was holding on with the thumb of one hand and by the end of the journey I wasn’t even holding on. I guess you could say I loved it. I definitely recommend doing a third day and visiting those further afield (Banteay Srei which was stupidly busy, Kbal Spean for the stone carvings and waterfalls and hundreds of butterflies with a stunning 1500m walk through the woods to get to it, and the Roluos Group), even if it’s just for the scenery along the way – Cambodia is stunning and I even saw a brand spanking new lime green John Deere tractor tootling along the road amongst the countless regular tractors/lawnmower engines. I guess the owners are the Prince Charles of the Cambodian agricultural world. Oh, and get a moto, it’s so much quicker, or at least it was with my loony speed demon driver, and way more fun than a tuk tuk. Bizarrely, I was the only western person on a moto that I could see (everyone else was in tuk tuks or minibuses) and so I seemed to get rather a lot of attention, or perhaps it was because I looked like a crazy person grinning away and bouncing all over the place as we zipped around the place. The only downside was that my driver decided that I shouldn’t watch the sunset at Pre Rup but at another one in the Roluos Group, known as Bakong. Do not watch the sun set there: you can’t even see it set JUNE/JULY 2012
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CAMBODIA WHAT’S NOT TO LIKE?
properly as there are ruddy large trees in the way. And it was the best sun set we’ve had on our travels, it gave off that glorious red glow ten minutes after the sun went down. Sod and his stupid laws. Anyway, we made it back through the crazy rush hour of Siem Reap and I was rather impressed with myself for not falling off the bike all day, or causing us to crash, seeing as it was only my second time on a motorbike, that as soon as I got off the bike outside the hostel I fell flat on my arse. Bless the driver, he only laughed a little bit. Clockwise from top: National Museum, National Monument, Sihanoukville, Angkor Wat, Around the streets of Siem Reap, Rush hour traffic, The rules of S-21, Golden Lions Sihanoukville, Wat Phnom.
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Good Ambience...
Outstanding Food Quality and Cocktails. reasonabe price !!!
We headed out that evening for a few drinks and to watch some of the many Boxing Day football matches. Oh, and just a little matter of me beating Mike at a game of pool. He assures me that he never purposely lets anyone win so I’m going to take full merit for that obviously world class game of pool. The final two days in Siem Reap were spent relaxing around the town, witnessing the atrocities to the population that the landmines have created, and still do on a daily basis, randomly bumping into my old diving buddies, Melanie and Matthias, eating and drinking in the many, many excellent pubs, restaurants and street stalls the town has to offer, being offered opium and cocaine, and, in Mike’s case, offers from many a young lady. I would rock up a few seconds later which for some reason put the kibosh on their offers but it’s always fun to watch the realisation dawn on their faces (and Mike’s) and they giggle away. If you go to Siem Reap, please visit the 24 hour mart (although check your change, they totally swindle the tourists) at the end of the street food stalls and Pub Lane – there’s an old, greasy, western man who appears to be there at all times of the day and night, supping away on one can of beer whilst entertaining a different Cambodian lady each time. I was curiously fascinated by him and ever so slightly creeped out. So, Cambodia: a stunning country with a sad history, heart-wrenching poverty, amazing architecture and countryside, and filled with ridiculously friendly, beautiful, happy and inspirational people. Just make sure you watch where you walk: they appear to drive at you from all angles and even on the pavements, and yet I never saw road rage nor an accident once .
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TAPAS • CONTEMPORARY KHMER CUISINE • INTERNATIONAL FLAVOR • PASTAS • DESSERTS • WINE BAR • COCKTAILS and more
Located in the main tourism complex of Angkor Night Market. Siem Reap, Kingdom of Cambodia +855 12 578 998 +855 86 444 438 +855 63 650 0040 palateangkor@yahoo.com
GUIDE KHMER COMPLEX ART
VIEW FINDER NATURAL ABILITIES
NATURAL ABILITIES Herbs, spices and fruits have been used over centuries for their medicinal properties. With the advent of modern research and technology, the healing properties of these substances are being constantly discovered. In this issue, we take a look at some of these natural wonders that should play a starring role in your daily menu.
2.5
million people die from harmful use of alcohol each year. Source: World Health Organization, 2012
7,543
deaths due to cholera were reported globally in 2010, representing a 52% increase in just one year from 2009. Source: World Health Organization, 2012
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT A DOCTOR BEFORE YOU EMBARK ON ANY ALTERNATIVE THERAPY OR EXERCISE REGIME.
350
TURMERIC
GINGER
POMEGRANATE
GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS Anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial
GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS Digestive aid, painkiller, anti-infl ammatory
GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS Antioxidant, high in vitamins and enzymes
Combined with cauliflower, it may prevent prostate cancer and inhibit the growth of existing cancerous cells. It can prevent breast cancer from spreading to the lungs (studies done on mice), and metastases from occurring in other forms of cancer. May prevent melanoma (ski cancer), causing existing melanoma cells to destroy itself. Reduces the risk of leukaemia in children, with studies underway on use for pancreatic cancer. Slows down and prevents the progression of Alzheimer’s disease by removing amyloyd plaque buildup in the brain. Shows promise in slowing progression of multiple sclerosis in mice studies.
Proven effective in treating ovarian cancer (ginger powder induces death of malignant cells when applied to ovarian cancer cells) Source: University of Michigan May prevent colon cancer (slowing down colore cancer cell growth) Source: University of Minnesota Aids in serious pain management (fibromyalgia and rheumatoid arthritis) Source: botanical-online.com Prevents diabetic nephropathy (kidney damage from diabetic
Lowers risk of heart disease (keeps bad cholesterol from hardening the arteries; the seeds act like aspirin preventing dangerous blood clots) Source: Journal of Cardiovas-
Source: altmedicine.com, healthdiaries.com
GENERAL BENEFITS A natural painkiller and anti-depressant, aids in fat metabolism and helps in weight management, natural liver detoxifier, speeds up healing of damaged skin, helps in psoriasis treatments. CONTRAINDICATIONS Turmeric should be avoided if you have gallstones or bile obstruction.
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JUNE/JULY 2012
complications) Source: http://entomology. eajbs.eg.net
Combats morning and motion sicknesses and is a natural remedy for heartburn. May provide relief for migraine. GENERAL BENEFITS High in Vitamin B6 that is useful to treat morning sickness in pregnant women, prevents motion sickness, colds and fl u, relieves menstrual cramps, heartburn, migraines, headaches, nasal congestion and chesty coughs. CONTRAINDICATIONS Avoid if you have Crohn’s disease, irritable bowel syndrome, gastritis, stomach ulcers.
cular Pharmacology
Increases oxygen levels in the body to help blood circulation and combat erectile dysfunction (its enzymes breaks down cell cartilage formation to ease blood flow) Source: www.globalhealingcentre.com
May prevent breast and
calories can be burnt daily just by fi dgeting. Source: www.mayoclinic.com
0.5
percent is the average brain shrinkage for relatively healthy humans, every year of their lives after the age of 60.
Source: www pharmacology.org
REMOTE MONITORING
prostate cancer. Source: The Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry Highly effective in reducing LDL (bad cholesterol) Source: The Journal of
Nutritional Biochemistry
Effectively fights cell damage (through regular consumption) Source: Toxicology
* Copyrights of Elsevier Ireland Ltd.
GENERAL BENEFITS Natural occurring enzymes aid in lessening symptoms of diarrhoea, used for weight control, beauty and skin treatments for its antioxidant properties. CONTRAINDICATIONS May have reaction if taking with other medications. * Always consult your doctor first when considering natural remedies, especially if you are pregnant.
Patients of Boston Hospital are taking robots home with them for post-operative consultations and care. Created by VGo Communications, the 1.4 metre tall, 7.7 kilogramme, two-wheel robot, functions primarily for video conferencing, giving family members constant connection to the doctors and nurses in between post-surgical appointments within the pilot project. www.childrenshospitalblog.org
Princess Diamond
your style, your diamond #40Eo, St. 67 Sangkat Pshartemey II, Khan Daun Penh, Phnom Penh, Cambodia Tel: 089 888 789 | 023 648 99 88
PIX OF THE MONTH
Just snapped a cool picture? Send it to info@citylifeguide. com with Snapshot in the subject line.
< BEST PICTURE WINS A 3D/2N stay in a Executive Deluxe room at The Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf and Spa Resort for two, worth USD 500++! Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra offers 5-star accommodation in Siem Reap close to the magnificent temples of Angkor Wat. The Siem Reap hotel, which elegantly combines Khmer and French architectural design, features landscaped gardens, 5 restaurants and bars, meeting facilities, a luxury spa and the largest free form swimming pool in Cambodia. The leading luxury resort in Siem Reap also boosts a world-class 18-hole golf course at the Phokeethra Country Club, which is only a 25 min drive from the hotel.
WINNER
Homeless Boy, Phnom Penh
SECOND PRIZE WINS > A Canon PowerShot worth USD 110++!
RUNNER-UP
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Flooded house, Phnom Penh
i-Qlick (Cambodia) Pte., Ltd. No. 146, Preah Sihanouk Boulevard, Phnom Penh Tel: +855 (23) 996 638 | Fax: +855 (23) 996 639 Email: sales@i-qlick.com | Website: www.i-qlick.com
The Little Garden
Sofitel
Meta House gallery
PHNOM PENH
em (63)
ska Pa Preah Tra
em (63)
raska Pa Preah T
JUNE - JULY 2012
mini guides the boutique of khmer www.royalempirehotel.com
LEGIAN SAMSUNG
Phnom Penh
SIEM REAP
SIHANOUKVILLE
KOH KONG
KOMPOT
KEP
BATTAMBANG
MONDULKIRI
RATANAKIRI
BANGKOK
VIENTIENE
SAIGON
from your magazine to your pocket Address: National Route 6, Airport Road, Siem Reap / Angkor. Kingdom of Cambodia. Room Reservation Tel: (855) 63 969 599 reservation@royalempirehotel.com
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3
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Send us your recommendations!
Tell us about your favourite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam. Email us at
info@citylifemagz.com
and weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s love to run your recommendations in a future issue. JUNE/JULY 2012
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hospitals |Clinic | Doctor
Ambulance 119 (from 023 phones) 023-724891 Police Hotline 117 (from 023 phones) Tourist Police 097 7780002 Child Abuse/ Exploitation Police Hotline 023 720555 Fire 118 (from 023 phones) 012 786693
American Medical Center
why go?
Hotel Cambodiana, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 991863
Calmette Hospital
Main Hospital #3, Monivong, Phnom Penh
Tel: 023 426948 Polyclinique Aurore Local clinic, local doctors. General medicine. Maternity clinic. X-ray and ultrasound. Reasonably priced. #58-60, Street 113, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 360152 / 012 779824
International SOS Medical & Dental Clinic
International standard medical clinic with full facilities. General medicine. Emergency care. Pediatrics. Translation. Evacuation. #161, Street 51, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 216911 / 012 816911 www.internationalsos.com
Naga Clinic
Insurance
Courier
Pharmacie De La Gare
Asia Insurance (Cambodia)
DHL - Worldwide Express
#5, Street 13 Tel: 023 427981
#353, Street 110 Tel: 023 427726 Fax: 023 427680
U-Care
1) #26-28, Sothearos Tel: 023 222399 2) Sihanouk, corner of St. 55 3) Corner of Norodom Blvd & St.136 4) #844, Kampuchea Krom 5) #254 Monivong Tel: 023 222399 www.u-carepharmacy.com
International SOS Medical & Dental Clinic
International standard medical clinic with full facilities. General medicine. Emergency care. Pediatrics. Translation. Evacuation. #161, Street 51, Phnom Penh Tel: 023-216911, 012-816911 www.internationalsos.com
Naga Clinic
Forte Insurance
#325, Mao Tse Toung Tel: 023 885077 www.forteinsurance.com
Infinity Insurance
#126, Norodom Tel: 012 800001 www.infinity.com.kh
Import&Export Intra Co. #2-3, Street 118 Tel: 023 211811
N.H International
11, Street 254 Tel: 011 811175 www.nagaclinic.com
#106, Street 310 Tel: 012 842964
Agrovet, #26, Street 294, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 216323
#28, Monivong Tel: 023 430922 Fax: 023 430923
Veterinarians
TNT
MINI GUIDE JUNE/JULY 2012
11, Street 254 Tel: 011 811175 www.nagaclinic.com
Pharmacies #81Eo, Monivong Tel: 023 430205
The sights of Phnom Penh are largely cultural and historical but only part of the experience exploring the city. Exotic shopping, unique dining, indulgent spas and a bit of nightlife complete the Phnom Penh experience. Set aside two or three days to see the major points of interest.
what is there to do?
See
FedEx
ROYAL PALACE
#701D, Monivong Tel: 023 216712 Fax: 023 216721 #28, Monivong Tel: 023 430922 Fax: 023 430923
NATIONAL MUSEUM
Home of English #30, Street 282 Tel: 023 220960
2
located just north of the Royal Palace, it housed in a graceful terracotta structure of traditional design (built 1917–20), with an inviting courtyard garden. The museum is home to the world’s finest collection of Khmer sculpture – a millennia’s worth and more of masterful Khmer design. Price : 25,000r Hours : 8-11am & 2-5pm
#27, Street 134 Tel: 023 427511 Fax: 023 366323
#46, Street 214 Tel: 023 212113
ROMDENG
1
Royal Palace
UPS
ACE (IDP)
Eat & Drink
with its classic Khmer roofs and ornategilding, the Royal Palace dominates the diminutive skyline of Phnom Penh. It is a striking structure near the riverfront, bearing a remarkable likeness to its counterpart in Bangkok. Address : Samdech Sothearos Blvd. Price : 25,000r Hours : 8-11am & 2-5pm
TNT
English Schools
It is possible to squeeze the most important sights into a single day, but this leaves very little time at each. Popular city sights include the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum and the Khmer Rouge ‘Killing Fields,’ the National Museum, the Russian Market, Central Market and Wat Phnom. Except for the ‘Killing Fields,’ which is about 16km away, all of the major points are inside the city within a five or ten minute car/moto ride of each other.
Phnom Penh
Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines
esse
nt ial
Emergency
Once the ‘Pearl of Asia’, Phnom Penh’s shine was tarnished by the impact of war and revolution. But that’s history, and Phnom Penh has risen from the ashes to take its place among the cool capitals of the region.
Dream Land
3
Dreamland Kid Playground is one of the newest park which had just opened to public for couple of months now! This place attracts hundred and thousand of people coming to the park at the weekend bringing their friends, family members to enjoy the space and having fun with different activities and games inside. The Dreamland is located just right on the south of the famous hotel Cambodiana or opposite of Naga Hotel in Phnom Penh.
Tuol Sleng Museum
4
S-21 has been turned into the Tuol Sleng Museum, which serves as a testament to the crimes of the Khmer Rouge. Entry is on the western side. Address : St 113 Price : US$2, video US$5 Hours : 8am-5.30pm
Cambodia Korean cultural center
5
Exhibition Show room, Korean shopping center, available 3D Movie everyday Free entrance. Address : Central Phnom Penh Hours : 06:30 to 17:30
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The best things are found in the most unexpected places. Tucked away on Street 174 you will find our Cambodian training restaurant, Romdeng, run by former street youth in training. Set in a beautiful colonial building, Romdeng serves a great variety of Cambodian food ranging from almost forgotten recipes from the provinces to contemporary creative Cambodian cuisine. Allow yourself some time to enjoy the pool and free WIFI. Romdeng can also provide catering for weddings, functions and parties and can host events for up to 160 people. #74 Street 174, Phnom Penh Tel: 092 219 565 or email us at restaurants@mithsamlanh.org
brown coffee
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BROWN Coffee and Bakery aims to provide an inspired and ethical work environment. We endeavor to offer the best quality coffee, pastries and service. BROWN Coffee and Bakery provides an inspired and ethical work environment; offer the best quality coffee, pastries and Delivery service Delivery : (855) 92 222 567 Open:7am - 4pm From Mon - Sat #17 Street 214 Mobile: 092 222567 info@thebrowncoffee.com
Sarika Pool & Pizza Bar
sarika pool & pizza bar
8
Sarika Pool & Pizza Bar offers you an unforgettable dining experiencewith a menu that boasts an array of Asian influenced dishes as well as international specialties and the best wood-fired pizza in the city! Enjoy your meal amongst our beautiful garden setting; with intimate bungalow tables nestled throughout tropical vegetation or upstairs in the Diplomat’s Bar; a private retreat for the discerning customer who likes a touch of class. Better yet, if you have a family bring your kids for a swim whilst relaxing poolside and enjoying a delicious meal. Address: #69, st. 566, Coner st. 317, Toul Kork, Phnom Penh, Cambodia chitchatt@saenterprises.asia Tel: 017 456 116 / 012 821 259 http://sarika-chitchat.info/
turn over for map and number locationS
At its heart, Siem Reap is still a little charmer, with old French shop-houses, shady tree-lined boulvards and a slow-flowing river. But it is expanding at breakneck speed with new houses and apartments, hotels and resorts sprouting like mushrooms in the surrounding countryside.
MINI GUIDE PHNOM PENH
Getting around
See
Eat & drink
Sleep
Essentials Getting there Phnom Penh is a fairly easy city to get around. Tuk-tuks’ have become quite popular in Phnom Penh,only $1-$2 for short trips and $10-$15 for the whole day. Motorcycle Taxi (Motodup) ,can be found virtually everywhere in town, just step to the curb and they will find you. Motos cost from 4000R-8000R for a trip in town and $6-$8 per day. Cyclo ride should cost about the same as a moto, is easier and cooler ride. Motorcycles can be rented for $5 - $9/day. Choice Taxi,Meter taxi service. Available 24/7, Tel: 023-888023, 010-888010.
why go? Angkor is a place to be savoured, not rushed, and this is the base to plan your adventures. Still think three days at the temples is enough? Think again with Siem Reap on the doorstep.
when to go
Sleep
See
River 108 Hotel
Angkor Wat
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Me Mates Place has been the Top Rated Hostel in Phnom Penh for 3 years consecutively! Come and enjoy the comforts home, High speed Wifi, Comfy Beds, Western Showers ( high pressured and steaming hot ) freeaccess to a nice chillout pool about 200m down the road, Fluffy super clean Linen, yet experience real Cambodian Culture with our wonderful staff. 1B4 Preah Sotheavong, Phnom Penh 12202, Cambodia +855 15 605 051
Phnom Penh City Hotel
13
Whether you are visiting Phnom Penh, Cambodia for business, or for pleasure, Phnom Penh City Hotel is your best choice! It is a boutique hotel [Brand new! open Octo
The Quay
14
As you step from the vibrant riverfront of Phnom Penh along the banks of the Tonle Sap, prepare yourself for a fusion of innovation and tranquility.As you enter the calming ethereal design of the lobby, you immerse yourself in form and comfort. From the start, your stay at this minimalist 16-room hideaway is urbane and relaxed. Consider yourself home at The Quay Phnom Penh’s first environmentally sound hotel. Address Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh, Cambodia The Quay Hotel +855 23 224 894 Email reservations@thequayhotel. com
Phnom Kulen
Don’t forget to use CityCard for discount when you visiting a store. For more information please contact us at, info@ citylifemagz.com 023 666 0359 023 30 50 70
Send us your recommendations!
Tell us about your favourite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam. Email us at
info@citylifemagz.com
and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.
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Me Mates Place
Eat & Drink 1
Is more than just an astounding architectural feat; it is the national symbol, the source of fierce Khmer pride and the epicentre of their civilisation. At first sight, it is a sumptuous blend of towers and sky, a magnificent spellbinding shrine to Vishnu with its captivating image replicated in the reflective lake below, a feast for unbelieving eyes. Address: Angkor 6km (3.7mi) N of central Siem Reap
Opera Suite bedroom in Sofitel Phokeethra Phnom Penh -Luxury Hotel
ber 01 2009] conveniently located in the heart of the city, opposite the cafe sentiment, close to Asia corner travel Galaxy pub, and close to Bus station to vietnam and supper market Lucky about 100m. 157, Street Trasak Pa-Em, Street 63, Beung Keng Kang, Phnom Penh, Cambodia, Tel: 023 217 967.
Angkor Wat is more than just an astounding architectural feat; it is the national symbol, the source of fierce Khmer pride and the epicentre of their civilisation. At first sight, it is a sumptuous blend of towers and sky, a magnificent spellbinding shrine to Vishnu with its captivating image replicated in the reflective lake below, a feast for unbelieving eyes. And there are many antique templs you cant’s be miss. A variety of shopping centers, spas, cafés, parks, and other activities can be found throughout the the old market area, and fabulouse nightlife.
SIEM REAP
Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.
River 108 is located toward the north end of the popular river front entertainment district, often referred to as The French Quarter. Along this strip there are dozens of restaurants and bars catering to an international clientele, as well as numerous travel agencies offering connections to destinations across the country and beyond. #2, Street 108, Sankat Vat Phnom, Phnom Penh, Cambodia Tel : (+855) 23 218 785 Email : reservations@river108.com
what is there to do?
MINI GUIDE JUNE/JULY 2012
WaterFall at Kulen Mountain, Siem Reap
2
Waterfall cascades off the mountain where King Jayavarman II announced independence from Java and proclaimed himself god-king. The river here also runs over lingas and is an attractive sight for modern-day pilgrims. There is also a little explored unnamed set of ruins at the foot of the mountain that is gaining mythical status among locals. Not many know how to get there, though they know of its existence. Would-be explorers are challenged to find it! Price: admission US$20, Hours: last admission 15:30
Banteay Srei
Samot Fine Wine &Cuisine
3
This ‘Citadel of Women’ dedicated to Shiva, is a stunning tour de force of classical art and the most ornate of all of the temples. hough it is relatively tiny in size compared to its mammoth counterparts, it has the most intricate carvings and is believed to be the instigator of the Khmer art movement. The detail is astounding and each doorway, each lintel and every wall is a masterpiece. Address N of Angkor
Angkor Night Market
4
Careful not to create a tourist park, as in often case, there’s no warehouse like setting instead you will find smoothly laid out huts built from natural materials and design in beautiful Khmer style. Over the years we already have 200 souvenirs shops which sells traditional Cambodian handmade products from clothing’s, silk, arts, jewelries, wood and stone carvings. Address: In front of old market,next to the Sala Sangkat Svay Dangkum, Siem Reap.
5
Samot Fine Wine &Cuisine fed us our best meal in Siem Reap. The prices are a bit higher than we like to pay (but at about $8 for an entree, still not exactly steep). We tried the snapper special, which was $5, fantastic, and came with a complimentary appetiser of smoked salmon on toast. The desserts sounded great too. The former chef from Sofitel Angkor opened the place in May 2008. It’s set down The Passage’s quiet extension, and feels a world away. Walls are painted baby blue, with seashell curtains on the patio, and a wine cellar in the rear. Wines start at $4 per glass. Recommended. old market area T: (092) 410 400, Open daily 16:00-24:00
The red piano
6
Red Piano is another Western-owned establishment with friendly staff delivering good Western and Khmer food. For pub grub try Molly Malone’s, while if you’re in the market for a barbecue, Villa Siem Reap has barbecues in their garden restaurant every Tuesday and Friday. No 341, 50 m Northwest of the Old Market, Svay Dangkom, Mondul I. redpianocambodia@online.com.kh
Great food somtuous desserts @ Samot Fine Wine &Cuisine
Blue Pumpkin
7
Blue Pumpkin remains arguably the best cafe/baking house in Siem Reap with a slick, air-con interior and fine food the day through. Anyone familiar with Bangkok with be struck by just how Bed Supperclubbish the place looks. Wireless internet is available. The acoustics upstairs are poor. Very white. Near Old Market, Siem Reap. T: (012) 946 227. Open daily 06:00-22:00
PALATE ANGKOR CAFE
8
A young Cambodian chef owner’s and his junior team are enthusiastic to delight your dinning experience with both local and international blended flavore, setting in a charm tropical garden that reflected the truely Cambodian culture . Our rural students have trained to serve and deliver the friendliness experience from their heart. Open everyday from 3.00pm until late with wifi Please book your table at 063 650 0040 or ask tuk tuk driver to bring you there, just right next to Angkor night market
turn over for map and number locationS
Surrounded by white-sand beaches and undeveloped tropical islands, the port city and beach resort of Sihanoukville (Krong Preah Sihanouk), also known as Kompong Som, is the closest thing you get to the Costa del Cambodia.
MINI GUIDE SIEM REAP
Getting around
See
Eat & drink
Sleep
Essentials Getting there
2
map display here..
The road linking Siem Reap to Phnom Penh is now surfaced all the way, and air-con buses thunder up and down daily. The road west to Sisophon, Thailand and Battambang is in a messy state in places, but is finally being overhauled. It is served by some buses and plenty of share taxis. There are several companies operating buses between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, and services depart between 6.30am and 12.30pm. The average cost of a bus ticket is US$5, depending on the company. There are daily express boat services between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh (US$20 to US$25, five to six hours)
why go? The big attractions around here are the four beaches ringing the headland. None of them qualify as the region’s finest but on weekdays it’s still possible to have stretches of sand to yourself. On weekends and holidays Sihanoukville is extremely popular with well-to-do Phnom Penhers.
MINI GUIDE JUNE/JULY 2012
Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.
Plan your itinerary
Ream National Park
9
For traditional Cambodian flare with colonial architecture and influences, check into this luxurious resort and spa. Centrally located and yet surrounded by nature, it makes an ideal base for leisure and business travelers in Siem Reap. The hotel is in close proximity to one of the World Heritage sites, Angkor Wat. Siem Reap’s Old Market, local bars and restaurants are also in the same vicinity. Enjoy a walk around the quaint Royal Park across the road. Central Park, P.O. Box 93145, Central, Siem Reap, Cambodia,Tel: (063) 760 428
Angkor Spirit Palace
See
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Angkor Spirit Palace is located in Phneachey Village in Siem Reap. The hotel offers traditional Khmer architecture, free Wi-Fi and a spa. A restaurant and an outdoor pool is available. Rooms at Angkor Spirit feature modern facilities like a TV and personal safe. A fridge and bathroom amenities are provided. Rejuvenate your body at the hotel’s spa, which features a sauna and massage services. The hotel also offers a tour desk and an on-site ATM machine. Hotel Rooms: 23 Phneachey Village, Svaydongkom Commune, Siem Reap Tel: 063 760 029
Cabana Suite - Master bedroom Raffels Grand Hotel D’Angkor
Auberge Mont Royal d’Angkor
Eat & Drink 1
Situated 13km east of Sihanoukville, Ream National Park is a great place to view Cambodia’s wildlife. The sandy beaches, mangrove forests, monkeys and dolphins make it a favourite among locals. A moto to the park’s headquarters should cost USaround US$2. From here, guided walking tours with rangers can be arranged from USaround US$5. Boat tours around the park cost around US$20 for a boat holding four people. E of Sihanoukville 11
Auberge Mont Royal d’Angkor is a city hotel in the center of Siem Reap. The hotel is in a quiet side road and ideal as a family hotel or business hotel. Hotel Spa, swimming pool, free WI-FI, Internet and hotel restaurant with garden offer all business travelers as well as an entire family with children all services for an enjoyable vacation. Within easy walking distance from Siem Reap center, Siem Reap river and all Siem Reap night life, spa, night market and gourmet restaurants. For more distant excursions into Siem Reap city or Siem Reap neighborhood, a hotel owned car or mini-van and a number of Tuk Tuk are available. Telephone: +855 (0)12 630 131, +855 (0)63 964 044 Address: P.O. Box #34, 497 Taphul, Siem Reap, Kingdom Of Cambodia E-mail : gm@auberge-mont-royal.com
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Occheuteal Beach
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Send us your recommendations!
Tell us about your favourite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam. Email us at
info@citylifemagz.com
and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.
Occheuteal Beach is the most popular beach in town, with a high concentration of bungalow bars and restaurants set up on the sand.
Koh Ta Kiev
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There are quite a few islands dotting the gulf within day-trip distance of Sihanoukville. For snorkelling, Koh Ta Kiev is one of the best.
Happy Herb Pizza
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Holy Cow
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A pizzeria with a breezy, tropical twist. In addition to Khmer dishes, options include garlic bread, salads and pasta. Free delivery available. Address : 81 Ph Ekareach City Centre, Phone tel, info: 34 632198 Hours : 08:00-23:00 Mirax Resort on the Dèk Kol Island in Sihanouk Ville
Bamboo Island
INDEPENDENCE BEACH
Southeast of of tiny Koh Pos Beach, Independence Beach, named after the hotel that has dominated the area since the 1960s, is a good stretch of clean sand but lacks shade and facilities.
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Victoria Angkor Hotel
The reefs around Sihanoukville are rich in corals, sponges and all sorts of sea life, from eels to anemones and stingrays to dolphins. Some of the best diving is around Koh Tang and Koh Prins, which require an overnight trip, though there’s also decent diving closer in near Koh Tas (Koh Kaong Kang) and Koh Rung Samloem (two hours one-way). Excellent snorkelling locales include coral-rich Koh Khteah, about 2km off Otres Beach.
SIHANOUK VILLE
when to go
Sleep
what is there to do?
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Imagine that you are relaxing on a lounge chair with a cool beverage, and all you see is golden sand beach, and shimmering aquamarine water, and all you hear is the sound of tropical birds, and wildlife. You hear no cars, see no development, and the real world seems a thousand miles away. Such a scenario exists only in your dreams, you say? Wrong. It really exists, it is called Bamboo island, and it is only 45 minutes away from Coasters on Ochheuteal beach at Sihanoukville. Address: Bamboo Island
At this attractive, chic-funky caférestaurant, options include pasta, sandwiches on homemade bread and a good selection of veggie options, including two vegan desserts, both involving chocolate. The small shop sells M’lop Tapang products. Address : Ph Ekareach City Centre, Phone : 34 478510 Hours : breakfast, lunch & dinner
food stalls
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In the evening, food stalls set up one block north of Psar Leu. Options include barbeque chicken, rice porridge or noodles with chicken, and a variety of Cambodian desserts. Address : cnr Omui & 7 Makara Sts City Centre
Fish Grill in Bamboo Island,
Sea Dragon
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Starfish Bakery & Café
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This large airy restaurant does tasty Western food, but it’s the delicious Khmer that you’d come for. Please let us know if you have any special preferences, environment that make you feel comfortable and care free. Address : Occheuteal Beach Phone tel, info: 034 016 595252, (855)034-933 671 Hours : breakfast, lunch & dinner
Tucked down a red-earth alley, this attractive, NGO-run garden café serves filling Western breakfasts, light lunches (sandwiches, quiche, tortillas, salads) and teatime treats such as brownies and apple tarts. Veggie options are legion. Income goes to help poor Cambodians get medical care, housing and micro-loans. Address : 62 7 Makara St City Centre Hours : 07:00-18:00
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Once Cambodia’s Wild West, its frontier economy dominated by smuggling, prostitution and gambling, Krong Koh Kong has recently taken big steps towards respectability. The city centre is still scruffy but new midrange hotels are going up, especially along the landscaped riverfront, and ecotourism promises to transform the town into the gateway to some of Southeast Asia’s most breathtaking coastal and mountain habitats. .
MINI GUIDE
SHIANOUKVILLE
Getting around
See
Eat & drink
Sleep
Essentials Getting there National Highway 4 (NH4), the 230km highway between Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh, is in excellent condition but is quite dangerous due to the prevalence of high-speed overtaking on blind corners. It’s doubly dicey around dusk and at night, when all intercity road travel is best avoided. NH3 to Kampot (105km) is also in tip-top shape. Taking NH48 to Krong Koh Kong and the Cham Yeam–Hat Lek border crossing will be a breeze once the four ferry crossings are replaced by bridges, an engineering landmark that should happen sometime in the future.
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Is perfect for a tropical holiday or even as a brief interlude of relaxation during a hectic tour of South East Asia.
Koh Kong Safari World
Western run, we are aware of the needs of the weary traveller and our staff will ensure you get the most from your time with us. We can arrange boat trips to Cambodia’s Inner and Outer Islands, Snorkling / Diving excursions and local tours of Wat’s (Temples) and Waterfalls. Add: Serendipity Beach,Sihanouk Ville,Cambodia Tel. 017 595 191 or 016 463 492
Koh Kong island
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In Cambodia it is very difficult to find a quality hotel but if you go to the Reef Resort in Sihanoukville you are in for quite a surprise. There is also a first class pool table, darts, two bars, and a restaurant on site. Sporting events, DVD’s, movies or other cable fed programs can be viewed at the large open air bar on the 42” plasma television. If you desire to read one of the many books in the library or just relax and watch a movie, +855 12 315 338, Nr Golden Lion Roundabout, Sihanoukville, Cambodia
The Disneyesque gateway. The park has the usual zoo animals but it also puts on the sort of live-animal shows banned in most countries, with performances reminiscent of a 19th-century circus sideshow. Birds ride tiny bicycles, orang-utans dressed up as boxers throw punches and a man puts his head inside a crocodile’s mouth.
Eat & Drink 1
The park has the usual zoo animals but it also puts on the sort of live-animal shows banned in most countries, with performances reminiscent of a 19th-century circus sideshow. Every morning, and into the early afternoon, birds ride tiny bicycles, orang-utans dressed up as boxers throw punches and a man puts his head inside a crocodile’s mouth. Address: Krong Koh Kong, Phone tel, info: 016 800811
Junior Suit bedroom in Cambodian Resort, Sihanouk Ville
Reef Resort
what is there to do?
See
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The best place in town for Russian mains (pelmeny, manty, chicken Kiev) and soups (red and green borsht, solyanka); it also serves seafood. In a unique, slithering twist, diners sit at glass-topped tables with live serpents - many venomous - inside. The jungle-enveloped complex includes a bar, a guesthouse and a crocodile farm: one false step and the crocs will eat as well as you did. Address:Ph Soviet Weather Hill Phone: tel, info: 34 673805
Tranquility Guesthouse
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Plan your itinerary
Aqua Resort Sihanoukville is located near Ochheuteal Beach. It is easily accesbile to Sihanoukville’s many restaurants, bars and casinos. This boutique hotel offers 24 rooms with Air Conditioning, free Wifi Internet, En suite bathroom with hot water and Cable TV with 60 channels. Hotel facilities include a swimming pool, bar, restaurant and laundry Service. +855 16 224 257 Polaway Street (Formerly Kanda St), Sihanoukville, Cambodia
Snake House
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Send us your recommendations!
Tell us about your favourite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam. Email us at
info@citylifemagz.com
and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.
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Aqua Resort
KOh kong
Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.
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The best nearby beach is on the eastern (ie city centre) side of Stung Koh Poi about 4km south of the bridge at the tip of the peninsula. You can get there along the river on foot or by moto; by car you have to loop around to the east.
MINI GUIDE JUNE/JULY 2012
when to go
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why go?
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Save a few shacks that are home to coconut farmers, Ko Kong is largely uninhabited leaving its pristine white sand beaches just for you. The water at its many beaches is remarkably clear and the setting is pristine (save the general flotsam that washes up onto the beach). Around an hour by fibreglass boat from Ko Kong town, the island is a popular escape for a daytrip from dusty Ko Kong. While accommodation is not available, we were told that some people have camped on the island.
River waterfall
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A very worthwhile trip, regardless of the season is to do a boat trip up the Kah Bpow river to a large waterfall that crosses the river. In the wet season the waterfall spans almost the entire river’s width, whilst in dry season (when the rivers are all lower) the waterfall is restricted to the far left side of the river. When the river is low there are ample swimming opportunities, just be very careful jumping off any of the large rock ledges.
Baan Peakmai
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Fat Sam’s
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One of the best restaurants in town, this Thai place, out of doors in a relaxing garden, has a monster menu with two dozen vegetarian choices and a fair spread of seafood. Address: St 6 Phone: 035 393906 Price: mains 60-250B Hours: 6am-10pm TaTai water fall in Koh Kong
kickboxing
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Traditional Khmer kickboxing - similar to Thailand’s Muay Thai, which Khmersinsist is in fact Cambodian - is especially popular in Krong Koh Kong, and many of the country’s top boxers, including the national champion, Eh Phouthong, hail from here. Matches are sometimes held in Krong Koh Kong on Saturdaynights, especially in the dry season.The hugely enthusiastic crowds include quite a few women and the provincial governor who, it is said, never misses a match. Locals are joined by Thai punters from across the border.
You’ll know the food is good, once you meet Sam and the family. Food, Pool Table, Free Internet. Sam and Lin look forward to seeing you soon! Some of Koh Kong’s best Western meals all day.Located Downtown on the main street. Live football Saturday and Sunday,Tel: 099 59 23 10 e-mail: emalcolm18@yahoo.com
Cafe Laurent
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Lovely place on stilts over the sea serving some very good, albeit expensive food. We liked it enough here to return on several nights as the foos was as good here as it was bad at our hotel (ASEAN Hotel, excellent value rooms, terrible food!). Koh Kong is a grubby town, almost as grim as Kampot, but with a vibrant atmosphere and a busy, beautiful estuary which is lovely to watch from Cafe Laurent. There is one other place which I cannot remember the name for located a few hundred yards from here
Fried Crabs
over the little bridge, which is also an excellent and cheaper cafe.Next to the Koh Kong City Hotel. Tel: 035 63 66 388 / 016 37 37 37
WATERFRONT KOH KONG
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We had several meals at this little place, located just along the Koh Kong town riverfront (in between Sunset ice-cream and Koh Kong Divers). The prices are average, and all the food we had was delicious (khmai, thai & western)! Good portion size too. They have a happy hour every evening, as well as a special burger + beer for $4. But the best part is how helpful and sweet the 3 sisters who run the place are. They helped us find tuk-tuk and boat rides to various places, and answered any questions we had. Riverfront Rd. (next to Koh Kong Divers), Koh Kong, Cambodia
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More and more visitors are discovering the sleepy riverside town of Kampot, a charming place with a relaxed atmosphere and a fine, if run-down French architectural legacy. Eclipsed as a port when Sihanoukville was founded in 1959.
MINI GUIDE KOH KONG
Getting around
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Eat & drink
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Essentials Getting there
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When NH48 finally gets its four new bridges, ending the frustrating traffic jams at the ferries, travel times will plummet and transport options to Sihanoukville (220km) and Phnom Penh (290km) are likely to mushroom.Krong Koh Kong is linked to the Thai border by a dual carriageway of sorts – not only does it lack lines, lanes, signs, reflectors and verges/shoulders, but some locals drive as if it were two parallel two-lane highways! The 1.9km bridge over Stung Koh Poi, built and run by the Thais, costs 4800r/44B each way for a car and 1200r/11B for a motorbike; bicycles and pedestrians cross for free.
why go? Kampot makes an excellent exploring Bokor National Park verdant coast east towards including Kep and a number cave-temples.
Plan your itinerary 11
Remote but accessible, getting to 4 Rivers Floating Eco-Lodge is your opportunity to acclimatise yourself to the country, the region and its always smiling, welcoming peoplece. The resort is ideally situated in Tatai, next to the Thai border halfway between Bangkok and Phnom Penh (via Koh Chang). Add: Koh Andet Island, Tataï Village, Cambodia +855 17 240 859
Koh Kong City hotel
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Povides nicely arranged hotel facilities, whether its accommodation, dining, or business facilities, to all its guests. The restaurant located within the premises of this hotel offers tastefully served delicacies. The hotel also hosts a business center for the convenience of our guests. Some other activities that can be enjoyed while staying in this hotel include laundry services, travel/tour information, Internet service, and 24-hour in room service. Tel: 012 901 902
Eat & Drink
Old bridge
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Boat excursion
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Kampot’s riverside location makes it an excellent place to begin a boat excursion, either to scenic areas upstream or - at around 17:00, when the fishing boats head out to sea - downstream. Enquire at your guesthouse or ask around along the river. You should be able to arrange a seaworthy vessel.
Front of Koh Kong City Hotel
Champa Guesthouse
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Opposite Koh Kong River Side, is the only riverside option in Ko Kong, and you are right on the river, with the rooms opening out onto a wooden terrace that faces straight onto the river. All rooms are with fan and shared bathroom facilities. Rates are very reasonable and Rob is a good source of information on the Ko Kong area. Add: Koh Kong, Tel: 035 939 912
Otto’s
Strolling
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Heading inland from the river road, Otto’s sits on a well shaded corner with a bunch of functional though basic wooden rooms in rambling wooden setup. The two large and well-decked-out balcony areas are a big asset here and a perfect escape from the heat and take a snooze. The best tight budget bet Ko Kong town T: (035) 93 6163;
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Kampot’s most enjoyable activity isstrolling along streets that evoke days long gone. Blocks lined with decrepit Frenchera shops can be found in the triangle delineated by 7 Makara St, the Central Roundabout and the post office.
Send us your recommendations!
Tell us about your favourite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam. Email us at info@citylifemagz.com and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.
River kayaks
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Les Manguiers, a riverside guesthouse 2km north of town, rents out river kayaks (rates are marginally more for twoperson boats).
Bokor Mountain
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For the ride, for the scenery, for the cool mountain air, for the
Bokor Mountain Lodg
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Epic Arts Café
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Bokor Lodge is our favourite for a streetside sundowner, while Rikitikitavi gets the vote for a splash out meal. Bonkors was closed for several months in mid2009 but we heard the owner plans to reopen or perhaps sell the place. Bokor Mountain Lodge: River Rd, Kampot. T: (033) 932 314. Open daily.
The old bridge is quite a sight: destroyed during the Khmer Rouge period, it has been repaired in a mishmash of styles.
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4 rivers eco lodge koh kong
Kampot’s most enjoyable activity is strolling along streets that evoke days long gone. Blocks lined with decrepit French-era shops can be found in the triangle delineated by 7 Makara St, the Central Roundabout and the post office.
KOMPOT
when to go
Sleep
what is there to do?
MINI GUIDE JUNE/JULY 2012
Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.
base for and the Vietnam, of superb
Nipa Huts at Rabbit Island
adventure, for relaxation. All good reasons to travel the the top of Bokor Mountain. (note: there are many difficulties getting up the mountain while road construction is going on. This should end in 2011. You should call ahead to one of the hotels or guide services in Kampot in advance, to check if the road is even open)
Rapids (Tek Chhou).
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A series of stones in flowing water, a major tourist resort for the Khmer and fun for all, cool crystal clear water running down from the semi demined hills of Bokor. One of the many Generals here hasbuilt a spa on the back of this water, he claims it has health improving qualities and has called it “Tada Bokor”.
A great place for breakfast (around US$3), home-made cakes or tea, this mellow eatery - staffed by deaf and disabled young people - can also pack a bagel lunch for a trip up to Bokor. Sometimes it hosts dance performances. Profits fund dance, music and art workshops for deaf and disabled Cambodians. Epic Arts Cafe: A block back from the abandoned market, Kampot. Open daily.
SAY SABOK
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Pleasant shopfront restaurant with an impressive menu and reasonable prices. Popular with the town’s expat community as well as tourists. Comfortable seating and another good spot to catch the sunset over a cocktail or meal. River Road, Kampot, Cambodia
Crab soup Bamboo Island,
LITTLE GARDEN
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RIKITIKITAVI
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Pleasant, popular restaurant and bar with western management. Great sunset views, wide-ranging, reasonably-priced menu offering local specialities, Khmer dishes and western fare in a breezy garden or inside. Open every day from 7 am ‘til 10 pm. Riverfront, Kampot, Kep Tel: (855-12) 256 901
Pleasant rooftop restaurant and bar at the popular Rikitikitavi guesthouse. Offers a wide selection of well prepared and presented western and local dishes in generous portions, and diners will enjoy the spectacular sunset views. Good wine selection. Riverfront, Kampot, Cambodia Tel: (855-12) 235 102 / 274 820
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The seaside resort of Kep-sur-Mer, famed for its spectacular sunsets and splendid seafood, was founded as a colonial retreat for the French elite in 1908. Cambodian high rollers continued the tradition, flocking here to enjoy gambling and water sports, and in the 1960s it was home to Cambodia’s leading zoo.
MINI GUIDE KOMPOT
Getting around
See
Eat & drink
Sleep
Essentials Getting there
map display here..
MINI GUIDE JUNE/JULY 2012
Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.
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Sleep
mid-20th century villas
Moliden GuestHouse
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The Orchid Guesthouse is a relative newcomer to the guesthouse scene in Kampot but is generating plenty of interest with visitors to the town. Located across the street to the long-popular Blissful guesthouse and restaurant, the Orchid offers good value rooms for around US$10 to US15 with air-conditioning set in a pleasant garden. Across the river, Kampot, Cambodia Tel: (855-33) 932 634
KAMPOT GUESTHOUSE
King Sihanouk’s Palace
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Rather characterless guesthouse slightly away from the riverfront, with friendly staff and decent rooms for around US$10 with a/c (US$5 with fan). Pleasant terrace and small restaurant complete the picture. Off the river, Kampot, Tel: (855-16) 885 255 (855-12) 292 150
Eat & Drink
Send us your recommendations!
Tell us about your favourite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam. Email us at info@citylifemagz.com and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.
JUNGLE BAR & RESTAURANT
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From Kep’s northern roundabout, NH33A heads north past the mildewed shells of handsome mid-20th-century villas that speak of happier, carefree times - and of the truly terribly Khmer Rouge years. Built according to the precepts of the modernist style, with clean lines, lots of horizontals and little adornment, they once played host to glittering jet-set parties and may do so again someday, though for the time being many shelter squatters (and, some say, ghosts). Don’t even think of buying one - they were all snapped up for a song in the mid-1990s by speculators well-connected in Cambodia’s murky corridors of military and civilian power. Address : Town Centre
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Rikitikitavi offers a small, but stylish range of individually decorated rooms situated in a tastefully renovated wooden framed rice barn. Each room comes with a beautiful bathroom with hot water shower. Air conditioning, cable TV, DVD player with 100s of free DVDs to watch, fan, mini-bar, safe, free WiFi and, most importantly, a fantastic bed and bedding. The double rooms also have a small private patio area and gorgeous four poster beds. Locally sourced Art and Khmer silks adorn the walls with massive wooden beams and rattan in abundance. Add:Rikitikitavi,Riverside Road,Kampot,Cambodia Tel: (0855) 012 235102 (0855) 012 274820
Dining in Kep is all about fresh seafood. For the best deals head to the Crab Market, a row of wooden waterfront shacks where you can tuck into mouth-watering grilled prawns, crab, squid, squid and fish. In case you’re interested, crabs kept alive in pens tethered a few metres off the pebbly beach - cost per kilo.
See
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ORCHID GUESTHOUSE
what is there to do?
KEP
Plan your itinerary
Le Soleil d’Or , an ancient French colonial hotel/guest house completely tastefully restored, only a few meters from the Kampot (Cambodia) riverside and five kilometers to the gulf of Thailand, offers you double rooms and one hotel family room. Our four hotel rooms are tastefully decorated and possess all the comfort necessary for a pleasant stay with us. Add: 20 Road Moui Ousaphea Village,Kompong,Kandal Comune, Kampot 0000, Cambodia. Tel: +855(0) 90 589 008 +855(0) 86 295 894
Rikitikitavi
why go? After several false starts, Kep finally seems to be rising from (or among) the ruins. It’s again popular,especially on weekends and holidays, with the wealthy elite of Phnom Penh. Drawn by the languid, Riviera-like atmosphere, they drive down in SUVs to picnic and frolic on the scruffy beaches (even before the war, white sand was shipped in from Sihanoukville to keep up appearances). If you want to see the town before big money transforms it, you’d better hurry.
when to go
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Le Soleil d’Or
NH3, these days in sharp shape, links Kampot with both Phnom Penh (148km, two hours) and Sihanouk ville(105k m).Both Phnom Penh Sorya Transport and Hour Lean (012 939917) run two buses daily to midday to/ from Phnom Penh (US$4, four to five hours). Both companies take the long way around – via Kep (US$2, 40 minutes) and Angk Tasaom (the gateway to Takeo; US$2.50) – because the Bailey bridges on NH3 aren’t bus-friendly. Both companies have ticket desks around Sokhoda Restaurant (facing the Total petrol station).
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On top of the hill northwest of Kep Beach is a palace built by King Sihanouk in the early 1990s. Before his overthrow in 1970, Kep was one of his favourite spots and he used to entertain visiting foreign dignitaries on an outlying island nicknamed Île des Ambassadeurs. The king may have harboured thoughts of retirement remains unfurnished.
Knai Bang Chatt Resort in Kep
Kep Beach
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Kep Beach, which faces south and is thus not great for sunsets, is sandy but narrow and strewn with little rocks. The eastern end of the shaded promenade is marked by a nude statue of a fisher’s wife. A waterfront promenade to the Crab Market was under construction as we went to press.
Coconut Beach
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Coconut Beach is a few hundred metres southeast of Kep Beach, just past the giant crab statue and across the NH33A from two gilded statues that locals say - with a great deal of justification - look like oversized chickens.
Popular bar and restaurant at the Veranda Resort. Good food too. Our nine Standard Bungalows, two Deluxe Bungalows, one Superior Hillside Bungalow, one Family Suite Bungalow, one Superior Suite Bungalow and two Deluxe Suite Bungalows all feature private veranda with hammock overlooking the Gulf of Thailand and Bokor Mountain, well-appointed en suite bathroom with hot water shower, fan cooling and some with air con. The lively open air Jungle Restaurant in a beautiful natural garden setting, offers Western and Asian food as well as fresh seafood dishes and a special BBQ grill menu. The Jungle Restaurant with its exceptional view presents an irresistible culinary adventure and is open daily from 7.00 am – midnight. The Jungle Bar brings in its own touch of exclusivity, providing a spectacular sunset overlooking the ocean, Phuc Quoc Island and Bokor Mountain.Our Barman will be pleased to mix a refreshing cocktail from our wide selection. You will be carried away by the ambient music while enjoying our wine selection or sip a tequila sunrise. @ The Veranda Natural Resort, Kep Hillside Road, Krong Kep, Cambodia Tel: (855-12) 888 619
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Squid fried , Seafood cuisine
THE BEACH HOUSE
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LE BOUT DU MONDE
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CHAMPEY INN
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Good value western and Asian dishes at this resort-based restaurant overlooking Kep’s beach. Near the “White Lady” Statue, Kep, Cambodia Tel: (855-12) 240 090
Good quality French fare - especially the seafood - at this pleasant ocean-view restaurant. Good value too. Kep Hillside, Kep, Cambodia Tel: (855-12) 198 9106
Good French fare at this ocean-view terrace restaurantat the popular Champey Inn, serving some of the best seafood preparations in Kep, plus a welcoming beachside bar. At the beach, Kep, Cambodia Tel: (855-12) 501 742
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Cambodia’s second-largest city is an elegant riverside town, home to some of the best-preserved French-period architecture in the country and to warm and friendly inhabitants. The city itself is developing fast but timeless hilltop temples and scenic villages can be seen on leisurely day-trips.
MINI GUIDE KEP
Getting around
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Eat & drink
Essentials
Sleep
Getting there
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map display here..
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Kep is 25km from Kampot, 172km from Phnom Penh and 49km from the Vietnamese town of Ha Tien. The Cambodia –Vietnam border at Ha Tien has been open to tourists since mid-2007. Both Phnom Penh Sorya Transport and Hour Lean run Phnom Penh–Kampot buses that pass through Kep (they also serve Angk Tasaom, near Takeo). On Phnom Penh Sorya, the fare to Kampot (40 minutes) is US$2; arrival times from Phnom Penh are variable. Buses stop at Kep Beach, where motos await, but you can ask to get off near the Riel bar or Kep Lodge. Ticketing is handled by guesthouses or Sunny Tour.
why go? Battambang’s many temples, which survived the Khmer Rouge period relatively unscathed thanks to a local commander who ignored orders, include Wat Phiphétaram, a long block north of Psar Nat, built in 1888; Wat Damrey Sar, west of the Battambang Museum; and Wat Kandal on the East Bank, once famed for its library. A number of the monks at all three wats speak English and are glad for a chance to practise; they’re often around in the late afternoon.
MINI GUIDE JUNE/JULY 2012
when to go
Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.
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Sleep
Plan your itinerary
Battambang Museum
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The Beach House has 16 rooms in total - 10 single/double, 4 twin and 2 family rooms. The cost of a single/ double or twin room is USD40 per night and a family room is USD55 per night. All rooms are air-conditioned and have hot water. The cost does not include breakfast but does include full use of the pool and spa. Satellite television is available in every room. There is also a meeting room available for business retreats. Kep beach, Kep (+855 - 12) 712 750 (+855 - 12) 240 090
Kep Lodge
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Located in scenic Kep town, the charming Kep Lodge enjoys beautiful views of Bokor Mountain and the Gulf of Thailand. Offering free Wi-Fi, it has free bicycle rentals and an outdoor salt-water pool. For relaxation, guests can request for an in-room Khmer or oil massage. Scooter rentals and day trips to Rabbit Island can be arranged. There is an on-site sundry shop selling local products. Add: Pepper Street, Krong Kep, Kep Tel: 036 6900 143 092 435 330
Villa, Kap
Ek Phnom
Veranda Natural Resort 11 Set in a very pleasant and breezy spot with uninterrupted views, Veranda is popular with Phnom Penh expats so book ahead if you think you’ll be there over the weekend -- especially a holiday weekend. Accommodation ranges from fairly standard-sized wooden bungalows through to massive family-sized villas. The accommodation is accompanied by a wide, tiered restaurant and bar, which boasts some of the best views across the sea to Bokor to be had in the area. Hillside, Kep. T: +855(0)33 399 035 +855(0)12 888 619
Tree Top
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A Swiss Family Robinson experience Tree Top is true to its name and worth a night’s stay for the novelty alone. The four rooms are all actually tree houses, three of which are connected by wooden platforms, and the one room with a private bath is set off on its own. In front of Kep Lodge, Kep,Tel: (012) 515 191
Send us your recommendations!
Tell us about your favourite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam. Email us at info@citylifemagz.com and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.
Green House Café
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Ek Phnom dates back to the 11th century and is one of the most-visited attractions around Battambang. If you’ve already seen Angkor you’ll probably find it a bit disappointing, but if you haven’t been there yet, it’s a fine taster. On weekdays, you’re likely to have the entire place to yourself, How to get there: Ek Phnom is best reached from Battambang by motodop along the river road and takes around 45 minutes, passing through some beautiful scenery.
Phnom Banan
The bamboo train is one of the world’s all-time classic rail journeys. From O Dambong, on the east bank 3.7km south of Battambang’s Old Stone Bridge, the train runs southeast to O Sra Lav, via half an hour of clicks and clacks along warped, misaligned rails and vertiginous bridges left by the French.
Eat & Drink
Two elegant - though as yet nameless - avenues, with parkland down the middle, grace the city centre. One goes by the Centre Culturel Français (one block north of NH5), while the other stretches west from the worthwhile Battambang Museum .3Address: St 1 City Centre, Price: admission USUS$1 Hours: 08:00-11:00 & 14:00-17:00 Mon-Fri
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The Beach House
BATTAMBANG
what is there to do?
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Just over 20km to the south of Battambang, Phnom Banan is the best kept of the remaining Khmer ruins in the area, though again, when compared to Angkor Wat it isn’t so impressive.
Phnom Banan Temple
Dating back to the 11th century, Phnom Banan has been heavily looted but remains mostly upright. Location: 25 km south of Battambang Price: US$ 2, the ticket is also valid for Phnom Sampeau and Wat Ek Phnom
Phnom Sampeau
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Serves coffee, shakes, Khmer-style rice and noodle favourites, salads and exotic dishes - the menu has photographs so clients know what they’re getting - such as pizza, hamburgers and doughnuts. Popular with students from the nearby colleges. Address: East Bank Phone tel, info: 012 467313 Hours: 06:30-20:30
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This hilltop temple on the road to Pailin is one of the main locations of Battambang’s killing fields, with a large cave where victims were thrown either after being bludgeoned or having their throats cut, or simply to their death. Children, some of whom speak very good English, hang around the base of the temple and will walk up with you and act as your guides. Location: 18 km southwest of BattambangPrice: US$ 2, The ticket is also valid for Wat Ek Phnom and Phnom Banan
FRESH EAT Café
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Run by an NGO that helps children whose families have been affected by HIV/AIDS, this little place serves Western breakfasts, including bagels, and holds dance performances (USaround US$3) from 19:00 to 21:00 on Friday and Saturday. Address: City Centre Phone: tel, info: 012 953 912 Hours: 06:30-21:00
KHMER DELIGHT
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Khmer delight is the ideal place for people seeking a change from Khmer food and has an amazing range of international cuisine accompanied by amazing value 60cent draft Angkor unparalleled in Battambang. The waiting staff are nice and speak English well, but watch your bill after you've drank a couple as the ticks tend to accumulate faster than the beers...
Cambodia Red Wine, At Banan
76/6 Street Two & A Half | Central Business Dsitrict, Battambang 0000, Cambodia Tel: +855 12778666
MADISON CORNER
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However, with the majority of the menu consisting of a make your own crepe scheme, it doesn't appear that too many of Battambang's tourists are interested. Opting for the burger located under the sandwich section of the menu's miniscule Western food besides crepes section, I was heartbroken to receive a nugget of meat without a bun. The espresso was fantastic, and the establishment does get a late rush of drinkers as it's usually the last the close. Good for a nightcap. A pool table and WiFi are available. On the corner of 3rd street, one block west of The White Rose. T: (053) 731 486 The
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Mondulkiri is a totally different experience from the rest of Cambodia. High up in rolling hills, with a constant, all-year-round breeze, it’s a destination which makes you feel on top of the world.
MINI GUIDE BATTAMBANG
Getting around
See
Eat & drink
Sleep
Essentials Getting there
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Battambang is 290km from Phnom Penh along the heavily trafficked NH5. Travelling after dark is best avoided for safety reasons. Boat and bus tickets can be arranged through hotels and guesthouses. NH57 to Pailin (80km) is still sometimes referred to by locals as NH10. Half-a-dozen bus companies have offices and stops on or near NH5, most of them west of the river. All serve Phnom Penh (US$4, five hours), Pursat (US$2.50 or US$3, two hours), Sisophon (US$2, one hour) and Poipet (US$4, three hours). Booking through a hotel may incur a US$1 commission.
why go?
MINI GUIDE JUNE/JULY 2012
when to go
Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.
Sleep
Plan your itinerary
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Khemara 1 Hotel in Battambang is a newly built hotel within a short walking distance from the city center. The rooms are decorated with rich wooden furniture and parquet floor in a contemporary Khmer style. Building #611, Street 515, Chrey Kourng Village, Sangkat Slaket, Battambang City, Tel.: +855-53-737 878 info@khemarahotel.com,
Bungalow hotel
See Bousra Waterfall
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Phka Villa Battambang is an oasis of calm and peaceful retreat, located in center of town and far away from the busy city streets. The hotel is one of the finest in battambang and offers a beautiful black tiled pool and a restaurant serving Khmer and Western dishes. K.O Street, Romcheak 5, Sangkat Ratanak, Battambang, Cambodia Tel: +855(0) 53 953 255 H/P: +855(0) 89 969 366
Khemara 1 Hotel
MONDULKIRI
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The Bungalow hotel is situated on a quiet location in Battambang; a colonial legacy style building which awards you great unwind impression. The Bungalow is suitable for a nice family getaway since it offers affordable accommodations in calm and peaceful surrounding.
Hotel, Battambang
Elephant Treks
Within a close proximity to the central market, guests can make use of the bicycles available on site to travel to attractions that are within the hotel’s vicinity. # 144, Gr. 4, Kamarkor Sangkat Svaypor, Tel: +855 12 916 123
La Villa
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La Villa in Battambang is a boutique little hotel set in a colonial house built in the 1930s. The owners have renovated the building maintaining its colonial style and furnishing it exquisitely with art deco and antiques. The hotel has a pool and a restaurant with views over the garden and all the rooms contain telephone sets. The hotel has 7 en suite rooms and are equipped with air conditioning and fans, TV set and cable network, mosquito net. N 185 Pom Romchek 5 Kom Rattanak Srok Battambang - Cambodia Tél. + FAX : +85553730151 Mobile : +85517411880
Send us your recommendations!
Tell us about your favourite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam. Email us at info@citylifemagz.com and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.
what is there to do? For an original elephant experience, visit the Elephant Valley Project. The trip starts with a tour of the project before learning about the body language of elephants. Students are then given the chance to try a series of short rides to build their confidence. After lunch, wannabee mahouts get the chance to experience a longer ride to a nearby waterfall.
Eat & Drink 5 Green House Restaurant and Bar
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This is the largest waterfall within easy motorcycle distance -- 37 km -- of Sen Monorom, taking about one hour each way on average to poor dirt roads. The falls are in two main levels and the main picnic area is between the two. The upper falls are wide and strong with a couple of swimming holes, while the lower falls, at 25 m high, are narrower but far taller.
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Phka Villa
Home to the hardy Pnong people and their noble elephants, it is possible to visit traditional villages and learn how to be a mahout. The landscape is a seductive mix of pine clumps, grassy hills and windswept valleys that fade beguilingly into forests of jade green and hidden waterfalls. Wild animals, such as bears and tigers, are more numerous here than elsewhere, although chances of seeing them are about as good as winning the lottery
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The villages of Phulung, 7km northeast of Sen Monorom, and Putang, 9km southwest of town, are the most popular places to arrange an elephant trek. Most of the recommended guesthouses around town, as well as the tourist office, can arrange day treks for around USaround US$30 or so, including lunch and transport to and from the village. It can get pretty uncomfortable up on top of an elephant after a couple of hours; carry a pillow to ease the strain. Location: Villages of Phulung and Putang Timing: daily, morning till late afternoon Costs: US$ 25 up
is located right near the bus stop, and is essentially the only real backpacker hangout in town with any steady clientele. There are two main reasons for its draw. One, it has bamboo floors, rattan walls, and low ceilings covered in palm fronds. There’s a small bar and Western music always playing. T: (017) 905 659. Open 06:30 a.m. to 23:00 p.m.
Bousra Waterfall,
Sunset Hill
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Located before the air strip, 7 km down a side dirt road off the road to Bou Sra, this is a great place to ask your motodop to stop after returning from the waterfalls from a long day of trekking and swimming. You can also stop at Phnom Doh Kromom Pagoda, which is a small temple off the next road to the right heading toward the traffic circle.
Phnom Bai Chew
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Check out the observation deck of Phnom Bai Chuw, 6km northwest of Sen Monorom, for a jaw-dropping view of the emerald forest. It looks as though you are seeing a vast sea of tree tops, hence the locals have named it Samot Cheur (Ocean of Trees). Address NW of Town Centre
The Middle of Somewhere
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It serves primarily drinks andsnacks, but serves as a makeshift travel agency, organizing elephant treks with Jack’s refuge, which are about $50 for a full-day trip. The shop also sells an array of handmade Phnong crafts. Bananas restaurant, located on a patio behind the bamboo hut where Middle of Somewhere is housed, serves full meals. T: (012) 161 3833
Khmer Kitchen
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Also within eyesight of the bus stop on the same road, is a nice compromise between a Khmer- and Western-oriented restaurant. The ambiance, long tables under a metal
Fish Curry
awning. The food is great and wellpriced. Its all-inclusive breakfast combo eggs, toast, and coffee for $2, is a steal. The restaurant’s main attraction is its Khmer BBQ. You can choose fish, chicken, or beef. A one-person platter, with salad, marinated meats, and rice, is $5 while a two-person platter, which is plenty of food for three, costs $8. Tél : +855 11 620 461
Bananas
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Bananas is a new restaurat bar serving up Western favourites like shepherd’s pie and Flemish stew, with a dose of expat insight on life in Cambodia. By night, beers and spirits flow. Address: Town Centre Phone: tel, info: 092 412 680
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Ratanakiri is making a name for itself as diverse region of outstanding natural beauty that provides a remote home for a mosaic of minority peoples. The Jarai, Tompoun, Brau and Kreung are the Khmer Leu (Upper Khmer) people with their own languages, traditions and customs.
MINI GUIDE MONDULKIRI
Getting around
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Eat & drink
Sleep
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Essentials Getting there The easiest way to arrive is from Snuol. Buses come to Snuol directly from Kratie (around two hours) and Phnom Penh (around three hours) by bus; once there, it is straightforward to find a pick-up or taxi which can take you on the three-hour trip up to Sen Monorom, the provincial capital. The road is in generally good condition, and the second half is possibly one of the beautiful routes in Cambodia, climbing through the jungle and suddenly bursting out onto the top of the hills. Prices for all of these kinds of transport are very reasonable, and they can be arranged through guest houses and hotels.
why go?
MINI GUIDE JUNE/JULY 2012
what is there to do?
Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.
Plan your itinerary
Yeak Loam Lake
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Is a backpackers haven. Set on the side of a hill, filled with horses nibbling brush, the lodge has a wonderland feel to it. Friendly travellers convene in the restaurant area, a circular enclosure made of knotty pine that feels like a childhood tree house. Far and away the best place to stay A five minute moto ride outside town T: (012) 230 272;
Pich Kiri Guest House 10
Pich Kiri Guesthouse was the first lodging house to set up in Sen Monorom, and as of mid-2009, with a large, 47-room expansion, it is now by far the largest place to stay in town. Oldest and the best East of the market, Sen Monorom T: (012) 932 102;
Angkor Meas Guest house
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The rear view of the house looks out over a lush field of mango trees. The rooms are sparse and clean, featuring big beds with enormous headboards. Air-con is less of a necessity in this cooler climate than is hot water, but if you arrive in the middle of the hot season and need to find
Nature Lodge in Mondulkiri
Eisey Patamak Mountain
a refrigerated room for the evening at a decent price. Past the airstrip, Sen Monorom T: (011) 696 828;
Kachang Waterfall
Send us your recommendations!
Tell us about your favourite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam. Email us at info@citylifemagz.com and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.
LE JOVIAL JARAI
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At the top of Phnom Svay is the statue of a reclining Buddha, situated 2.5 km. Awesome and peaceful, it has lain undisturbed throughout the years. Cast your eye outwards to glimpse Laos in the north and Vietnam in the east, and enjoy the spellbinding serenity of the surrounding countryside.
12 Long Vibol Guest House and Restaurant
This pleasant enough guesthouse feels like it is far more targeted towards the NGO crowd than independent travellers and backpackers. While the rooms, hidden in a few low-slung row houses set behind a small stream and some treelined paths, are very clean and spacious, with hot water showers and TV, there is little to justify the walk (or short moto ride) out here as opposed to staying closer to town. A fave with NGO crowd Past the airstrip, Sen Monorom T: (012) 944 647;
Eat & Drink
Yeak Loam Lake is situated 5 km. south - east of Banlung. The Yeak Loam lake (volcanic crater) is the most beautiful lake of Ratanakiri formed by a volcanic eruption almost 4,000 years ago with 50 m. deep, 800 m. diameter and a walking path around the lake of 2,500 m. Two hundred meters of the track is a quaint wooden building housing tribal handicraft, the Crafts Museum.
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Nature Lodge
Trekking has really started to take off around Ratanakiri, but it is important to make clear arrangements with your guide to ensure you get what is expected out of a trip. There are lots of popular routes that take in minority villages and scenic spots around the province.
ratanakiri
when to go
Sleep
Many visitors opt for a trek into Virachay National Park, but be aware that some of these treks barely scrape the park itself, and spend much of the time in the park buffer zone. There are now multiday treks into the park, and these are a great way to explore one of the wildest and most remote areas in Cambodia.
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Kachang Waterfall is situated 6km. north west of Banlung. This Waterfall is located in the Kontung stream and flows into the Sre Pok River. The height of it is 12 m. and the water flows and falls throughout the year. A beautiful or magnificent landscape and huge amounts of fresh mist surround the waterfall. The visitors can take a bath and sit to look at the waterfall and other natural scenic beauties. or the visitors can also go around to view other natural sights on foot or take an elephants ride.
Water fall, Ratanakiri
Katieng Waterfall
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Katieng Waterfall is situated 7 km. north - west of Banlung. It is also located in the Koutung Stream, below the Kachang Waterfall, 3 km. The height of it is 10m. and the water flows and falls throughout the year. The visitors can see a beautiful natural landscape and take a break to take pictures of the birds and then continue to the waterfall.
Ou’Sean Lair Waterfall
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Located at the popular Terres Rouge Lodge resort just outside town, Le Jovial Jarai offers a comprehensive range of traditional Khmer, Lao and Vietnamese specialities together with a small selection of of western favourites, and all at reasonable prices. Groups catered for. Terres Rouge Lodge, Ratanakiri, Cambodia Tel: (855-11) 725 881
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Ou’Sean Lair Waterfall is situated 26 km, South of Banlung. This Waterfall has 4 floors and the height of each floor is 4 m. The water flows throughout the year. Around the Waterfall are beautiful natural landscapes and the visitors can go take a bath if they wish.
SAWASDEE FOOD TERRACE
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A very pleasant dining terrace at the popular Yaklom Hill Lodge, the Sawasdee offers a wide selection of excellent Thai, Lao, Khmer and Vietnamese dishes, all prepared from quality ingredients in a hygenic kitchen. Also has a few western favourites such as burgers, pasta etc. Yaklom Hill Lodge, Banlung, Ratanakiri, Cambodia Tel: (855-11) 725 881
TRIBAL CAFE
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A decent guesthouse restaurant Khmer and some western dishes in a quiet, open aspect venue close to the town centre. Good cheap guesthouse too. Banlung Town, Ratanakiri, Cambodia
Bar & Restaurant in Lodge des Terres Rouges, Ratanakiri
AMERICAN RESTAURANT
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A good, inexpensive choice for hearty western fare including burgers, pizzas, pasta, fries etc. Also offers a selection of decent Khmer, Thai and Chinese dishes. Cheap and popular. Banlung Town, Ratanakiri, Cambodia
SAL’S RESTAURANT
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Sal’s has been aropund for a little while now and gets good reviews for its burgers, spaghetti, meatballs, fish and chips and more. Also serves decent Khmer food and is very popular with the small expat community in Banlung. Airport Road, Banlung, Ratanakiri, Cambodia
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Bangkok is excess in all of its unrestrained glory. Biger, better, more: the city is insatiable, a monster that feeds on concrete, shopping malls and diesel exhaust.
MINI GUIDE RATANAKIRI
Getting around
See
Eat & drink
Sleep
Essentials Getting there
why go?
There are two main legs to the trip, Phnom Penh to Stung Treng and then Stung Treng to Banlung. The first leg usually requires a ferry ride for part of the way in order to bypass the extremely bad road between Kratie and Stung Treng. Either: 1) Take a taxi (2 hours, 8000 riel) or ferry (15,000 riel) to Kampong Cham, and then take a ferry from Kampong Cham to Stung Treng (9 hours, $15), or; 2) Take a taxi (5 hours, 13000 riel) or ferry (5 hours, 30,000 riel) to Kratie, and then take a ferry from Kratie to Stung Treng (5 hours, $7). Once in Stung Treng take a shared taxi or truck from Stung Treng to Banlung (25,000 riel, 3.5 hours in the dry season. 5-10 hours in the wet season.
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Bangkok’s best feature is its intermingling of o posites. A modern world of affluence orbits around a serene traditional core. Step outside the four-star hotels into a typical Siamese village where taxi drivers knock back energy drinks and upcountry transplants grill chicken on a streetside barbecue. Hop the Skytrain to the glitzy shopping malls where trust-fund babies examine luxury brands as carefully as the housewives inspect produce at the open-air markets.
MINI GUIDE JUNE/JULY 2012 what is there to do?
Thailand, BANGKOK
when to go
Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.
Sleep
Plan your itinerary
Welcome to Norden House Yaklom Ratanakiri, an unique newly built bungalow village in the famous Yaklom lake area. Our bungalows are 36 sq. m each with pinewood interior, attached bathroom w hot water, TV and DVD, furniture’s in pinewood and local hardwood, imported bed linen. We can arrange 3-10 days trekking in Virachey national park. Email: info@nordenhouseyaklom.com Tel: +855 12 880327 Mobile: 012 880327
Bangkok Calypso Ladyboy Show
Eat & Drink 1
Red curtains, glamorous feathers and long legs… and, since you are in Thailand, may we add ladyboys? While this is no Broadway or Can-Can show, Calypso Cabarat promises to be a feast for your eyes and ears. A fantastic evening at the Calypso involves a lot of dazzling performances by a wildly talented troupe of transvestite dancers, entertainers and lip-sync singers, not to mention bringing Marilyn Monroe and Michael Jackson back from the dead. Some say it’s touristy and strange, but we say it’s a star-studded evening with glistening stage design, extravagant costumes, thrilling soundtracks and simply superb entertainment.
Delux Room in Lodge des Terres Rouges, Ratanakiri
pleasant lakeside setting Far side of lake, Ban Lung Tel: +855 92 390 063 The Rattanak Hotel, Ratanakiri pro- E: chhenglok@yahoo.com vides wonderful accommodation with its well appointed rooms. All the rooms at the Rattanak Hotel, Ra- TERRE ROUGES LODGE 14 tanakiri are spacious and splendidly Charming traditional wooden lodge seat decorated. The units at the Rattanak on the edge of a lake and surrounded Hotel, Ratanakiri conform to the in- by peacefull garden. The team at Terres ternational standards of hospitality. Rouges offer professionally organised The warm ambience makes you feel tours of Ratanakiri Province, and the at home. Address: Banlung District, Lodge features a restaurant and bar serving local specialities and a wide Banlung, Ratanakiri, Cambodia. selection of wines and spirits, plus a Tel: (089) 259 029; small massage operation. Rooms are comfortable, some of them air-conLakeside Chheng Lok 13 ditioned. Rates run from US$32 to Hotel US$75 per night for double occupancy, In a prime spot overlooking Boeng depending on type of room or suite. Kansaign, this is the best all-rounder English-speaking local guides are availin Ban Lung. Set in a lush garden, able for US$20 per day. Lakeside, Banthere is a choice of attractive garden lung, Ratanakiri, Cambodia bungalows or smart rooms. Hot wa- Tel: (855-75) 974 051 ter, cable TV, it’s all here, and there is Mob: (855-12) 959 115 a local restaurant amid the flourishing Phnom Penh: (856-23) 215 651 plants.
Rattanak Hotel
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Grand Palace & Wat Prakeaw
Send us your recommendations!
Tell us about your favourite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam. Email us at
info@citylifemagz.com
and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.
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Norden House
Come find your niche among dazzling temples, hotels of every breed and size, eclectic markets, gleaming palaces, ritzy shopping malls, a famous nightlife and the many things in between. Enjoy a memorable dinner cruise adrift the Chao Phraya River. Bask in the city’s warm, affluent glow at a skyscraping rooftop bar. Experience all the things – tuk-tuk ride, ladyboy show, Muay Thai (kickboxing) match, Thai massage – everyone always comes home talking about.
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A dazzling site from afar, the Grand Palace and Wat Prakaew command respect from all who have walked in their sacred grounds. Built in 1782, and for 150 years the home of the Thai King, the Royal court and the administrative seat of government, the Grand Palace continues to have visitors in awe with its beautiful architecture and intricate detail. Wat Pra Kaeo enshrines Phra Kaew Morakot (the Emerald Buddha), the highly revered Buddha image meticulously carved from a single block of emerald, dating from the 15th century AD.
Bacchus
Dream World, Bangkok
Bang Khu Wiang Floating Market
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Bringing the finest French and Itaian recipes to your table, this fusion restaurant combines traditional European dishes with Asian accents such as Tokyo onion curry, pan-fried foie gras with eggplant in Japanese miso and balsamic sauce, and grilled pork fillet with umeboshi (Japanese apricot) sour sauce. Opening Hours: 24 hours Location: 999/9 Rajdamri Road, in front of Central World. 3
Perhaps the best choice to enjoy a traditional Thai floating market without the touristy push is Bang Khu Wiang. Monks arrive by boat in early morning on their daily ‘tak baat’ (alms round), and a variety of farm - fresh produce is offered. Opening Hours: 04:00 - 07:00 (every day) How to get there: One option is to rent a boat from Chang Pier (in Bangkok), and ask to be taken to Noi-Khlong Om-Bang Khu Wiang Floating Market. A cheaper option is to catch a boat from Wat Chalo Pier for a 45-minute ride to Bang Kruai (5 baht), which runs every 15 minutes from 05:00 - 20:00. From there it is a 10-minute boat ride to the market. If boats don’t suit you, no worries as taxis and tuk-tuks are available for hire at the market.
Café@2 – Conrad Hotel Bangkok
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Describing itself as a French-Thaibrasserie, you might mistakenly think that the menu at Café@2 follows the fusion cuisine line. But no, this upscale eatery offers classic Thai and French dishes on its lunch and dinner buffet menus, coffees and freshly blended juices. Opening Hours: 06:00 – midnight Location: 2nd floor, Conrad Hotel Bangkok on Wireless Road BTS: Ploenchit Tel: +66 (0)2 690 9299 Cuisine: French and Thai buffet
Circle
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With downstairs serving as a bar, patrons can enjoy a drink before dinner and observe the chefs work their magic through the glass-walled kitchen. If it
Papaya Salad with salty crablet
take your fancy, eating in the bar is an alternative to the main dining area, upstairs. Opening Hours: 11:30 - 14:30 and 17:30 – 24:00 Location: Ruam Rudee Village, Soi Ruam Rudee Tel: +66 (0) 2650 8049 Cuisine: International
Biscotti
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This upscale Italian practices an openkitchen concept that enables customers to observe the cooking process and enjoy the aromatic flavours of the fresh ingredients while enjoying a glass of wine from the extensive wine list, also served by the glass. Opening Hours: 11:30-14:30 and 18:00-22:30 Address: Four Seasons Hotel, 155 Rajdamri Tel: +66 (0) 2 126-8866 Cuisine: Italian
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This delightfully friendly capital, studed with cru -blooming bling French mansions, bougain villea streets and steaming noodle stalls, is somewhere between a big town and a diminutive city; the kind of place you might find a Graham Greene protagonist.
MINI GUIDE
THAILAND, BANGKOK
Getting around
See
Eat & drink
Sleep
Essentials Getting there
map display here..
Bangkok’s thousands of brightly coloured taxis are some of the best value cabs on earth. Most are new, air-conditioned and have working seat belts in the front seat, though less often in the back. You can flag them down almost anywhere in central Bangkok. The meter charge is 35B for the first 2km, then 4.50B for each of the next 10km, 5B for each kilometre from 13km to 20km and 5.50B per kilometre for any distance greater than 20km, plus a small standing charge in slow traffic.
why go? Full of things to see, from Buddha Park to the Morning market and an impossibly rich selection of international cuisine – most pointedly French – you’ll find yourself slowly won over by the easy charms of this evolving backwater.
MINI GUIDE JUNE/JULY 2012
what is there to do?
when to go
The southwest monsoon arrives between May and July and lasts into November. This is followed by a dry period from around November to May, which begins with lower relative temperatures until mid-February (because of the influence of the northeast monsoon, which bypasses this part of Thailand but results in cool breezes), followed by much higher relative temperatures from March to May. It usually rains most during August and September,
Sleep
Plan your itinerary
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Novotel Bankok Fenix Ploenchit is nestled between the central business district, Ploenchit-Sukhumvit Road and popular shopping centers such as MBK, Siam Paragon and Central Chidlom. Address: 566 Ploenchit Road, Lumpimi, Patumwan 10330 Bangkok, Thailand
Grand President Bangkok
See
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It was inevitable the big hotel companies would co-opt the ‘boutique’ idea, as Accor did in 2007 with this 147 room, eight-floor place at the end of busy Soi 11. It’s aimed at young, partyoriented tourists and is reasonable value. It looks contemporary enough with a lobby daubed in orange and white opening onto a ‘look at me’ bar. Down lounge-music-filled corridors the small rooms are, well, small. 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11, Klong Toey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand+66 2 305 4000
Novotel Bangkok Fenix Ploenchit
laoS, vientiane
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Seamlessly comfortable and beautifully decorated serviced apartments in the most happening part of Sukhumvit. If you’re spending more than just a few nights in Bangkok it’s worth considering this kind of option.
Laos National Cultural Hall
Delux Twin Room in Rikka Inn Hotel, Bangkok, Thailand
It’s an excellent choice for business travellers, or anyone seeking an extra notch of comfort. 14, 16 sukhumvit soi 11, Bangkok 10110, Thailand
SC Sathorn Boutique
Eat & Drink
Patuxai
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Check Inn Chinatown is located in Bangkok’s Old City neighborhood, close to Memorial Bridge, Wat Suthat, and Wat Saket. Nearby points of interest also include Temple of the Reclining Buddha and Grand Palace. Hotel Features. Dining options at Check Inn Chinatown include a restaurant and a snack bar/deli. A bar/lounge is open for drinks. Guestrooms. 34 air-conditioned guestrooms at Check Inn Chinatown feature minibars and coffee/tea makers. Rooms are individually decorated. At this 2.5-star hotel, accommodations include kitchenettes with microwaves, refrigerators, and cookware/dishes/utensils. 204,206,208 soi charoenkrung14, Charoenkrung road,samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100, Thailand
Send us your recommendations!
Tell us about your favourite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam. Email us at info@citylifemagz.com and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.
Aria Italian
1
Built by the Chinese in the 1990’s, as a gift to the Laos people, the building is not the most attractive Vientiane has known. Occasionally French cinema and Lao classical dance events are held here within the hall, although it is difficult to access information to find out exactly when. Those interested should keep an eye on the Vientiane Times.
Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines
Le Fenix Sukhumvit
Spread over the lower slopes of Phu Pasak (also known more colloquially as Phu Khuai), Wat Phu is small compared with the monumental Angkor-era sites in Cambodia or Thailand. But the tumbledown pavilions, ornate shiva-lingam sanctuary, enigmatic crocodile stone and tall trees that shroud much of the site in soothing shade give Wat Phu a mystical atmosphere.
2
Patuxai (literally Victory Gate or Gate of Triumph), formerly the Anousavary or Anousavari Monument, is situated in the centre of Vientiane. Built between1962 and 1968, the Laotians built it as a mark of respect for all those who fought in the struggle for independence from the French. Ironically, the monument bears a slight resemblance to the Arc de Triomphe, although the attention to detail and intricate design is typically Laotian, boasting four rather than two archways. The view from the top is spectacular. Built with cement that was purchased from America, with the intention of constructing a new airport, the locals sometimes refer to the monument as the ‘vertical runway’.
Temple, Vientiane
Buddha Park (Xieng Khuan)
3
Buddha Park (aka Xieng Khuan) is a famous sculpture park with more than 200 religious statues including a huge 40-metre high reclining Buddha image. It was built in 1958 by Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat, a monk who studied both Buddhism and Hinduism. This explains why his park is full not only of Buddha images but also of Hindu gods as well as demons and animals from both beliefs. Opening Hours: Daily from 08:00 – 18:00 Location: About 25 kilometres southeast of Vientiane, along the Mekong River How to get there: The Buddha Park can be reached by public bus or tuk tuk Tour Available: Vientiane City & Temple Tour
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If and when you have had enough of Laos food, Aria represents a good change. Located right downtown Vientiane Aria’s reputation precedes it as one of the best of its genre in Asia. With a classical Italian feel and a welllit and roomy dining area, Aria’s pizza selections from its open kitchen comprise its highlights but it also features recomendable lamb, veal and sliced sirloin – all complemented by an excellent wine list. Opening Hours: 00-856-021-222589 Location: 8 Rue Francois Nginn Tel: 00-856-021-222589
Bor Pen Nyang
5
‘No worries’ is the laid-back mantra at the Bor Pen Nyang. Relax while you face a great view of the Mekong River. From the lazy and relaxed afternoons to the vibrant nights, this restaurant and bar offers complete entertainment. Enjoy a game of pool or snooker with your friends or read a book in solitude at the Sidewalk Garden Cafe. Take along that special someone and make sparks fly with yummy cocktails and the fiery sunset. Bor Pen Nyangoffers a range of snacks. Address: Fa Ngum Rd, Wat Chanh Village. Tel: +856 21 26 1373
Laos, Ginger Chicken Cuisine
Khop Chai Deu Food
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(means ‘Thank you very much’) A favorite with expats, backpackers and tourists, this colonial-style building has a great menu of Laos and international dishes, each page reflecting the different types of customers. For example, the ‘Backpacker Page’ is where you will find spring rolls and other reliable dishes; likewise the ‘Laos Discovery Set’ takes you through various short courses of typical Lao dishes. The ‘Expatriate Relief Page’ is packed with home-cooked favorites such as pizza, pasta and hearty stews. Location: Southwest of Nam Phu Fountain, Around Town. Remarks: Credit Cards: Master Card and Visa Tel: +85621/212-106
turn over for map and number locationS
One factor that makes Saigon City exceptional is the contrast between the old and the new. This is the country’s business centre, and there are many areas under development, but there are also many places and buildings from earlier eras that are well preserved and well worth visiting to see the French colonial influences as well as ancient Buddhist sites. From fine art to war memorabilia, the list of things to see in Saigon City is seemingly endless.
MINI GUIDE
LAOS, VIENTIANE
Getting around
See
Eat & drink
Sleep
Essentials Getting there Buses use three different stations in Vientiane, all with some English-speaking staff. The Northern Bus Station (260255; Th T2), about 2km northwest of the centre, serves all points north of Vang Vieng, including China, and has some buses to Vietnam. The Southern Bus Station (740521; Rte 13 South), commonly known as Dong Dok Bus Station or just khíw lot lák kāo (Km 9 Bus Station), is 9km out of town and serves everywhere south. Buses to Vietnam will usually stop here.
why go? Saigon City is a fun place to shop for bargains. Some goods can be unique and fascinating – old propaganda posters, for example; we found one that exhorted people to plant garlic for export. Clothing includes silks and hand-woven fabrics with a reputation for high quality. Vietnam is also famous for handicrafts including bamboo ware, ceramics and lacquer. There are, too, all the usual holiday souvenirs such as T-shirts and beaded handbags at prices that are hard to beat.
MINI GUIDE JUNE/JULY 2012
when to go
The best time for visiting most of Laos is between November and February, when it rains the least and is not too hot. It’s also Laos’s main season for both national and regional bun (festivals). If you plan to focus on the mountainous northern provinces, the hot season (from March to May) and early rainy season (around June) is not bad either, as temperatures are moderate at higher elevations.
Sleep
Plan your itinerary
korn Inn Hotel
8
Vayakorn Inn is ideally situated in the heart of Vientiane, 15 minutes from the Wattay International Airport and 30 minutes from the Friendship bridge. Conveniently located in downtown Vientiane, the hotel is close to major tourist sites, plentiful shopping opportunities and provides the perfect setting for business, leisure and relaxation. 19, Henbounnoy Street, Ban haysoke Chanthabouly District, Vientiane, Lao PDR Tel: (+856-21) 215348, 215349 E-mail: vayakorn@gmail.com; vbinn@laotel.com
Sabaidee and welcome to Hotel Chanthapanya, Vientiane, Laos. From the front door, through the lobby, in the dining room and in every guest room, three words describe our Hotel – exquisite, exclusive and excellence. Entering the hotel lobby, guests will be greeted by exquisitely carved timber furniture – exclusive to our Hotel – that exudes an air of traditional charm and elegance, and provides guests with a homely comfort. Add: No. 138 Norkeokoummarn Road. Ban Mixay Chanthabouli District, Vientiane Capital, Lao P.D.R. Tel: (856-21) 244 284
Day Inn
Bink Quoi Tourist Village
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Day Inn is located in the heart of Vientiane near to Namphou Circle, surrounding by restaurants, shops, banks, car or motorbikes rental, 500 meters from the Mekong River and 15 minutes from Wattay International Airport. 30 Rooms. Hotel Address : 059/3 B Sisakhet Unit 1, Vientiane, Chanthaboury District
Send us your recommendations!
Tell us about your favourite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam. Email us at
info@citylifemagz.com
and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.
2
As the name suggests, this village is tailor-made for package holidaymakers, but nonetheless offers a pleasant choice of activities including water puppet shows, boat rides, and river cruises. It was built in 1994 by the Sai Gon Tourist Corporation on the banks of the Sai Gon River in Binh Thanh District, eight kilometres from the centre of Saigon. Generally considered the largest tourist attraction in Ho Chi Minh City, it has an evening dinner cruise with cultural show.
Cholon (Chinatown)
Au Lac do Brasil
1
The original Ben Thanh Market was built in 1859 but was destroyed when the French invaded and was rebuilt at its current location at Cong Truong Dien Hong – formerly a landfill – in 1899. For anyone on a tour of Ho Chi Minh City this is an essential stop for souvenirs such as T-shirts and handicrafts. The market is very well organized, with stalls grouped in sections according to what they sell.
Don Chan Palace, Exectutive Suit
Chanthapanya hotel
Saigon City’s entertainment industry is growing fast, though it’s still not a city for round-the-clock entertainment – most places close soon after midnight. But what’s available is quality fun. There is a wide variety of pubs and bars, especially in the city center, and the number of discos and clubs with regular live music is booming. Some of these are must-visits for newcomers, especially those traveling alone who may want to make new friends and meet local people.
Eat & Drink
Ben Thanh Market
7
le Leela Hotel, a newly opened hotel. Is now on track in Vientiane. It’s small Boutique hotel with only 15 rooms. Our rooms are uniquely designed with the modern and contemporary’s style it specially bring the cozy and unique experience during your stay. The hotel has 9 Deluxe rooms, 3 Superior, and 3 le LeeLa suites where a couple, family, friends could spend their enjoyable time together. Moreover, we proudly present and serve you with cuisine Indochina.Vaya Ban Phiawat 33 Unit 10 T: (021) 214 048; F: (021) 215 532
what is there to do?
See
Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines
Angkham Hotel
vietnam, saigon
3
The district of Cholon comprises Ho Chi Minh’s Chinatown. Established in 1879, it was a separate entity from Saigon but
Saigon night market
was later merged in 1931 by the Frenchcolonial government. The Chinese began to settle in Cholon in 1900 and as a result there are a lot of sights to see, such as the Binh Tay Market on Phan Van Khoe Street, Thien Hau Pagoda in Nguyen Trai district, Quan Am on Lao Tu Street, the Cholon Mosque on Nguyen Trai Street and a lot more interesting places.
Giac Lam Pagoda
5
For a taste (and then some) of Brazil, head to Au Lac. Decked out with Carnaval-themed paintings, this churrascaria (barbecue restaurant) serves allyou-can-eat steak (and 11 other cuts of meat), just like back in Rio. Plus a new à la carte menu. Address: 238 Ð Pasteur Phone: 08 3820 7157 Price: set dinner 390, 000d
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This pagoda the oldest in Saigon. It was built in 1744 and remodeled in the 19th century and again about 100 years ago. The temple reflects interesting Taoist and Confucian influences in addition to Buddhism. Shoes may be worn in the temple but visitors should take off their hats and refrain from smoking. Location: 118 Lac Long Quan St in District 5
Camargue
6
French Camargue is in a beautiful villa with a lovely garden courtyard and attracts diners with its romantic atmosphere. The restaurant’s bar is an ideal spot for a pre-dinner cocktail or two. Address: 16 Cao Ba Quat, District 1 . Tel: +848 823 2828
Cantina Central
7
Mexican Cantina Central is the well known among locals, expats and regular visitors to Saigon for the fresh authenticity of its Mexican food. It also serves the best Margaritas in town, amid attractive, relaxing surroundings. Address: 51 Ton That Thiep Street Tel: +848 914 4697
Cepage
8
An impressive addition to the international dining scene, Cepage is a trendy wine bar with a lounge downstairs and a serious foodie place upstairs. Try the ‘black box’ – a mystery three-course set lunch for 130,000d.
Noodle Crab Soup
Address:22 Ð Le Thanh Ton Lancaster Bldg, Phone: 08 3823 8733 Price: mains 150,000-350,000d
Nam Kha
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Temple Club
10
IThis is one of Saigon’s best-known designer restaurants, quite literally, as it is run by the Khai Silk group. The setting is striking with a reflective pool set amid Romanesque pillars. The menu is all about aromatic Vietnamese flavours. Address: 46 Ð Dong Khoi Phone:08 828 8309 Price: mains around 200,000d
Vietnamese Housed in an old Chinese temple, with beautiful woodwork and masonry, and a terracotta floor, the Temple Club has a bar, a lounge and a formal dining room with a menu featuring Vietnamese food from all over the country. Address: 29-31 Ton That Thiep St, District 1 . Tel: +848 829 9244
turn over for map and number locationS
MINI GUIDE
VIETNAM, SAIGON
Getting around
See
Eat & drink
Sleep
Essentials Getting there Intercity buses depart from and arrive at a variety of bus stations around HCMC and are well served by local bus services from Ben Thanh Market. HCMC is one place where the open-tour buses really come into their own, as they depart and arrive in the very convenient Pham Ngu Lao area. This saves an extra local bus journey or taxi fare. Most of the open-tour companies sell tickets to Mui Ne (around US$5), Nha Trang (around US$9) and Dalat (around US$8), plus there are night buses to Nha Trang (around US$12).
map display here..
when to go
Vietnam’s weather is dictated by two monsoons, meaning double trouble on the rain front. The winter monsoon comes from the northeast between October and March, bringing damp and chilly winters to all areas north of Nha Trang, and dry and warm temperatures to the south. From April or May to October, the summer monsoon brings hot, humid weather to the whole country.
Sleep Grand Hotel
Plan your itinerary
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Guests wishing to combine business with pleasure will find much to recommend in this hotel, centrally located in the city but surprisingly quiet. While the rooms are not flashy they are spic and span and nicely decorated with all the trimmings and trappings any business traveler or vacationer could want. Since there are only 104 rooms, it’s not overrun with visitors. Add: 117 Le Thanh Ton Street, District 1, District 1 - Ben Thanh Market, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
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AUSTRALIA #. 16B, Assembly Tel: 023 213 470 www.embassy.gov.au
JAPAN #. 194, Norodom Tel: 023 217 161-4 www.kh.emb-japan.go.jp
BELGIUM Phnom Penh Center, Sihanouk Blvd., Block F- Floor 7 Tel: 023-214024
LAOS #. 15-17, Mao Tse Toung Tel: 023 997 931
BRUNEI #. 237, Street 51 Tel: 023 211 457-8 BRITISH #. 27-29, (St. 75) Tel: 023 427 124 www.ukincambodia.fco.gov.uk BULGARIA #. 227-229, Norodom Tel: 023 217 504 CANADA #. 9, Senei Vinna Vaut Oum Tel: 023 213 470 Ext 417 www.infoexport.gc.ca/kh
MALAYSIA #. 5, Oknha Peich Tel: 023 216 176-7 MALTA #. 10, Street 370 Tel: 023 368 184 MYANMAR #181, Norodom, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 223761 www.phnompenh.um.dk FRANCE #1, Preah Monivong Tel: 023 430 020-2 www.ambafrance-kh.org
CHINA #156, Mao Tse Toung Tel: 023 720 920-1
GERMANY # 76-78, Yougoslavie Tel: 023 216 193 www.phnom-penh.diplo.de
DENMARK #8, Street 352 Tel: 023 987629
INDIA # 5, Chakrey Nhek Tioulong Tel: 023 210 912-3
N. KOREA #50-52, Samdech Pan Tel: 023 211 900-3 www.khm.mofat.go.kr
INDONESIA #1, Chakrey Nhek Tioulong Tel: 023 216 148
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Grand Hotel Saigon is within 1 km from the General Post Office, Notre Dame Church and the Reunification Palace. Tan Son Nhat International Airport is a convenient 25-minute drive away. Featuring classic French décor, rooms at the Grand Saigon are luxurious with fine beddings and furnishings. Each air-conditioned room offers views of the city or pool and come with cable TV, minibar and tea/coffee maker. Add: 8 Dong Khoi Street, District 1 Ho Chi Minh City, Viet Nam Tel : ++84 8 38230163
Norfolk Hotel
EMBASSIES INFORMATION
PHILIPPINES #15Z, Street 422 Tel: 023 222 303-4
Norfolk Hotel, Saigon, Vietnam
thien thao hotel
POLAND #767, Monivong Tel: 023217782
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Thien Thao Hotel is ideal for tourists and business travellers alike. Here at Thien Thao Hotel, we proudly cater to the needs of our valued Guests by providing the highest standards of services. We are aware that you have a choice of facilities to choose form, and are extremely pleased that you are taking a moment to see all that our hotel has to offer. Add: 89 Cao Thang Street - Ward 3 - District 3 - Ho Chi Minh City - Vietnam
Saigon Mini Hotel
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Saigon Mini Hotel is close to the central backpackers area but secluded enough to be away from the noise and disturbances. Most of the rooms catch a good dose of this light and air -- but not all, so ask to see a few if the room you’re shown lucked out in the window department. Wifi is available throughout the hotel.102/1A Cong Quynh, District 1. T: (08) 836 1008 F: (08) 838 9599
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
PAKISTAN # 45, Street 310 Tel: 023 996 890-1 RUSSIA # 213, Sothearos Tel: 023 210 931
AIRLINES INFORMATION
Send us your recommendations!
Tell us about your favourite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam. Email us at
info@citylifemagz.com
and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.
Air Asia # Cambodia International Airport Tel: 023 890 035
Cambodia Angkor Air # Mao Tse Toung, 12306 Tel: 023 023 666 786-8
Angkor Airways Corp # 32, Norodom, 12205 Tel: 023 222 056-8
Cebu Parcific Airways #333B, Monivong Blvd Tel: 023 219 161
Angkor Asian Air Co. Ltd # Phnom Penh International Airp Tel: 023 726 672
China Southern Airline Co.Ltd #53, Monivong Blvd Tel: 023 430 877
Bangkok Airways # 61A. Samdech Pan (St. 214) Tel: 023 426 624
Eva Airway Coroporation #11-14B, St. 217 Tel: 023 210 303
TRANSPORTATION IN Hong Kong Dragon Airline #168, Monireth Tel: 023 424 300 Indochina Airlines #36B, Mao Tse Tung Boulevard Tel: 023 994 502-3 Jetstar Airways #333B, Monivong Blvd Tel: 023 220 909 Korean Air #254, Monivong Blvd, RoomF3 Tel: 023 224 047-9 Lao Airlines #111, Sihanouk Blvd Tel: 023 424 300 Leisure Cargo Ltd #171-173 E0-E3, St. 110 Tel: 023 890 980 Pacific Crown Air Limited # 254, Monivong Boulevard Tel: 023 723 244 Philippine Airlines #333B, Monivong Blvd Tel: 023 291 161 Qatar Airways #333B, Monivong Blvd Tel: 023 218 040 Shang Hai Airlines #19, St. 106 Tel: 023 723 999 Silk Air #313, Sisowath, Himawari Hotel Tel: 023 426 806 Singapore Airlines #313, Sisowath, Himawari Hotel Tel: 023 426 807 Thai Airways International Pub-l #International Airport Tel: 023 890 292 Thai Airways International Pub-l #294, Mao Tse Toung Tel: 023 214 359 Vietnam Airlines #41, Samdech Pan Tel: 023 215 998 Lufthansa Co.Ltd #171-173 E0, Stt. 110 Tel: 023 213 325-6
Drop us an E-mail for your further update information: info@citylifemagz.com
PHNOM PENH
Taxi CHOICE Taxi 24/7 hours 2000 Riels for first 1.2km Tel: 023 888 023, 069 888 069 Boat Excursions-Rental Seng Hour Boat Rental Size: 4mx22m, Two floors Time Open: from 5.00 PM Cambodia $1/h Foreigner $ 5/h Tel: 023 723 476 Tuk Tuk Take you everywhere in town! Mr. Bun Leang Tel: 011 36 37 80 Mr. Deth Tel: 017 619 386 Mr. Bou Sokun Tel: 012 50 34 69 Mr. Thai Tuk Tuk The Surviver Tel: 011 722 788 / 092 774 227 ( English, Thai Spoken ) Car Rental LYNA-CARRENTAL.COM Price $250-1,1500/month or $15-40/day Airport Taxi service OW=$9.00 & RT=$15 Tel: 012 924517 (English) Tel: 012 554 247 (Khmer) www.lyna-carrental.com Larryta Trading & Travel Co., Ltd (Car Rental) Available all kinds of vehicles for rent: Sedan, Land Cruiser, Pajero, 4WD (Wagon, Pick up), Mini Van, VIP Tel: 023 994 748 Nº. 9, Street 310 Phnom Peh Motor Rental Angkor Motorcycles Sale - Rent - Repair Motorcycles & Visa Service. Available all kinds of Motorcycles for Sale & Rent: AX-1, Degree, BAJA, XLR, XR, Dream & Auto Bikes Nº. 92Eo, Pasteur (St. 51), between Street 172 & 174 angkormotorcycles@yahoo.com Tel: 012 722 098 / 012 222 205 Fax: 023 986 333 Vannak Bikes Shop # 40Eo, Khemarak Phoumin (St. 130) Tel: 012 220 970 Sean Ly Motor Repairing Shop Kampot # 27, Seong Ngok Minh Street, 1 Usaphea Village. Tel: 012 944 687 Phnom Penh Motor #645, Oknha Khleang Moeung (St. 70) Tel: 023 991 535 Little Bikes #178 Street 13 (between St. 178 and 172), Phnom Penh, Cambodia Tel: 023991570 (English & Khmer) info@littlebikescambodia.com
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
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WHAT’S NEW ON THE BOOKSHELF
Pasta (Cookery) “There is nothing complicated about pasta; it is one of the simplest foods to cook and also one of the most versatile. As comfort food, pasta is unbeatable. It is warming, filling and above all, mouth-wateringly delicious. Pasta from the Murdoch Books Test Kitchen offers you recipes for short, filled, long, curly and flat pasta dishes, plus some general guidelines for cooking with pasta. Try old favourites such as creamy penne carbonara, or be a little more adventurous with spaghettini with squid in black ink.” Monument Books price: USD 9.00 (Paperback)
Salads (Cooking) “Salads might be an indispensable mealtime support act, but they are also worthy of a starring role in their own right. Drawing on delicious flavours from around the world and using fine, fresh produce, salads will never again seem second best. Each recipe is written in a clear and concise style and is accompanied by a mouth-watering photograph of the finished dish.” Monument Books price: USD 9.00 (Paperback)
The Rough Guide to Cambodia (Rough Guide Cambodia) by Beverley Palmer “The Rough Guide to Cambodia” is the ultimate travel guide to this fascinating country with clear maps and detailed, informed coverage on the country’s foremost tourist draw, the stunning temples of Angkor. As well as up-to-date, practical advice on where to stay and eat for all budgets, there’s a comprehensive section on Cambodia’s tasty cuisine and where to find a cookery course. ‘Things Not To Miss’ highlights where to go and what to do, while two full-colour sections, Festivals and Ceremonies and Temple Architecture, make sure you’re well-informed. Whether it’s relaxing on one of the country’s sparkling, sandy beaches, trekking through the jungle, helping out at the elephant sanctuary or finding a homestay “The Rough Guide to Cambodia” is the only guide you’ll need. Make the most of your holiday with “The Rough Guide to Cambodia” Monument Books price: USD 25.00 (paperback)
Ultimate Cambodia Travel Guide by Matt Jacobson Hundreds of brilliant color photographs. The most extensive coverage of Cambodia’s sights. Information on all modes of transportation. Travel guides through every province. Fifty-two detailed town and site maps. Motorcycle, bicycle and four-wheel vehicle advice. GPS readings for remote sites and routes. Easy-to-learn language section! Humorous travel stories. Veteran resident author. Monument Books price: USD 20.00 (paperback) 96
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FLASH BACK WHERE HAVE WE BEEN
ABOVE & BELOW: The Mask exhibitions @ The Plantation Urban Resort and Spa
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ABOVE & BELOW: Grand opening @ Samba Restaurant
FUN QUICK QUIZ + RIDDLES + SUDOKU
RIDDLES 1. What is it that if you have it you want to share it, but if you share it you no longer have it? 2. Where in the world? Unravel the anagrams to find the landmarks (use the places to help) i. Ten at hog pen (Virginia) ii. Rainfall saga (Ontario) iii. Helmet rink (Russia) iv. Serve nut to me (Nepal) 3. How can a cowboy ride into town on Sunday, stay two days and leave on Sunday? 4. What am I? My first part sounds grumpy, my second is spoken or written.
1. What type of humorous verse might start with the line ‘There once was a man from Nantucket’? 2. From which animal does mutton meat come from? 3. Name the award-winning 2011 silent fi lm starring French actor Jean Dujardin. 4. Which of the seven dwarfs comes first alphabetically? 5. How many points does a Star of David contain? 6. Over which two months are the 2012 London Olympic Games being held?
5. If ‘7D of the W’ is 7 days of the week can you work there out? i. 4W on a C ii. 8N in an O iii. 5C in a PH iv. 10T on 2F
SUDOKU To solve a Sudoku puzzle, every number from 1 to 9 must appear in: • Each of the nine vertical columns • Each of the nine horizontal rows • Each of the nine 3 x 3 boxes Remember no number can occur more than once in any row, column or box.
7. What are cottonmouths, moccasins and copperheads? 8. Jimmy Wales is well-known as the creator of which website? 9. A car, thimble, ship, top hat, iron & dog are all playing pieces associated with what popular game? 10. Mario Monti is the new prime minister of which country?
• QUICK QUIZ 1 Limerick 2 Sheep 3 The Artist 4 Bashful 5 Six 6 July & August 7 Snakes 8 Wikipedia 9 Monopoly 10 Italy • RIDDLES 1 A secret 2 i. The Pentagon ii. Niagara Falls iii. The Kremlin iv. Mount Everest 3 His horse is called Sunday 4 Crossword 5 i. 4 wheels on a car ii. 8 notes in an octave iii. 5 cards in a poker hand iv. 10 toes on two feet 102
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PUZZLES ARE COURTESY OF LOVATTS CROSSWORDS & PUZZLES www.lovatts.com.au
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