M A G A Z I N E
secret lives of
FISHES the wild world under our waters
INSIDE: OFFICIAL SANDPOINT VISITOR GUIDE
&
Interview with Cold War Spy Leonard LeSchack, Well-Earned Sunsets, Rehab for Wildlife, Sculptor Mark Kubiak, 1887 New York Sportsmen Expedition, Tiny Lake Living, Bonner General Expands, Summer Nights Captured, Calendars, Dining, Real Estate ‌ and so much more
SUMMER 2015
SANDPOINT
www.TSSIR.com
Anytime Info
For recorded information or to speak to the listing agent, call 208.449.0071 and use the 5-digit property code.
Lake Views from this 7-acre retreat, w/2 custom homes, on 5 legal lots & 3 miles to sandpoint. 1st home has 2 bedrooms, 3 baths, built-ins, storage rooms & large shop. 2nd home is contemporary w/ lots of windows, 1 bedroom, 2 bath, built-in’s & 2 car attached garage. Paved driveway to all lots, power, paid water & sewer hookups. #14971 Bonnie chambers 208.946.7920 or Lauri coopman 208.255.3470
situated on 5 PriVate acres is an attractive and wellbuilt, custom home with 3 bedroom, 2.5 bathrooms and an open floor plan with attractive living spaces. The living area is spacious, there’s an office, formal and informal dining areas, a gourmet kitchen, a fully fenced back yard and a nice shop. This is a very impressive home. $365,000. #13591 alison murphy 208.290.4567
Located in the desiraBLe Ponder Point neighborhood, you’ll find a well maintained, spacious home situated on a large, nicely landscaped yard. There are 4 bedrooms, 2.5 bathrooms, formal and informal living and dining areas, a gourmet kitchen and a deeded community beach with boat launch, dock and sandy swim area. $269,000. #15501 alison murphy 208.290.4567
450 acre Bane creek ranch. This one-of-a-kind “Legacy” ranch consists of organic hay meadows, expansive mountain vistas, meandering creeks, timbered hills & draws, & abundant trophy wildlife. serene property offering peaceful seclusion & great access. #20142965 call Brian harvey for further details. $1,790,000. #11651 Brian harvey 208.290.2486
in town Lake front ProPerty featuring both a main house & guest house. main house: 4400 sf 4 bed/3.5 bath w/2 kitchens & 2000 sf of decking/patios. Guest house: approx. 800 sf, 1 bed/1 bath w/ media room. almost an acre of land. deep water low bank frontage w/boat dock. southern exposure. $929,000 #13301 Brian harvey 208.290.2486
Panoramic Views of Lake Pend oreiLLe and from almost every room of this 4300 square ft. custom-built home, with vaulted ceilings, open concept living/dining room, huge windows, big deck for entertaining, extensive rock work, landscaping, pond and waterfall. 3 bedrooms, 3.5 baths. $359,000 #11051 Jim watkins 208.255.6915 or sandy wolters 208.290.1111
riVerside retreat on Pend oreiLLe! waterfront home on 12 acres, privacy, spectacular views, professional landscaping, sprinklers, 2-car garage w/hydronic heat, carport, generator (ongrid/off-grid dual capability) 4 bed/3 bath, 3796 sq-ft mountainstyle home. additional 32 acres available. $549,000 #15101 sandy wolters 208.290.1111
waterfront condo deL soL, 2 bed/2 bath unit. Vaulted tongue-and-groove wood ceilings, gas fireplace, lg. loft area could be used for additional sleeping/den/office. manicured grounds, 2 swimming pools, tennis courts, basketball court, clubhouse, waterfront area with docks and boat slips. $225,000 #15171 sandy wolters 208.290.1111
the uLtimate off the Grid estate. 320 forested acres bordered by public land. 3 homes with over 7000 total sq.ft. of quality living space. state of the art alternative energy system powered by solar and hydro. waterfall and creek on property. Views of Lake Pend oreille and the mountains. $2,350,000 #10311 Jim watkins 208.255.6915
truLy an exquisite north idaho Gem. Beautiful craftsman home on the clear pristine shoreline of Glengary Bay. Breathtaking vistas of the beautiful lake, cabinet mountains and islands around hope. 3 bedroom, 3 bath in main home, 4 car garage, and an adorable studio guest cottage. #14611 carrie LaGrace 208.290.1965
stunninG sustainaBLe Green home on a very private 5 acre lot nestled in the woods. exposed timber beams & rasta walls. 3 bedroom, 3 bath, (master suite on main level). Gourmet kitchen. open floor plan. floor to ceiling cultured stone fireplace, 3 car garage. 15 minutes to downtown sandpoint. #12831 carrie LaGrace 208.290.1965
riVerdance! 1400’ of waterfront on the pristine Priest river includes 15 acres of forest&pastures in a private setting. designer influenced craftsman style 2 bdrm cabin. 20’x20’ artistically designed river deck makes you feel like you are sitting on the water! #13581 carlene Peterson 208.290.5700
© MMVII Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Claude Monet’s “Red Boats at Argenteuil,” used with permission. Sotheby’s International Realty® is a licensed trademark to Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates, Inc. An Equal Opportunity Company. Equal Housing Opportunity. Each Office Is Independently Owned And Operated, Except Offices Owned And Operated By NRT Incorporated. Coeur d’Alene office: 208-667-1551, 221 E. Sherman Ave., Coeur d’Alene, ID 83814. Sandpoint office: 208-263-5101, 200 Main St., Sandpoint, ID 83864.
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www.Evergreen-Realty.com ~ www.SchweitzerMountain.com 321 North First Avenue, Sandpoint ID Toll Free 800.829.6370 ~ Office 208.263.6370 ~ Fax 208.263.3959 Evergreen Realty is pleased to sponsor our local Habitat For Humanity
SA NDP O IN T MA G A Z IN E
S U M M E R 2 0 1 5 , Vol . 2 5 , N o . 2
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DEPARTMENTS
CONTENTS
FEATURES
76 Cover: The Secret Lives of Fishes Our amazing underwater wildlife comes to the surface in this cover package of stories: Lake Pend Oreille’s famous fish, Kootenai River’s burbot and sturgeon recovery, furred and feathered fishers, warmwater imports, crick fishing and conservation groups 39
Bonner General Health’s Future Bright
44
Inquiring Mind
51
On the Wild Side
55
Open-air Museum
59
‘More Beautiful than Switzerland’
Photographer Alan Barber shares a life of travel and making images
10 29 33 91 100
Living Large in Tiny Homes on the Lake Phenomenal Timber-frame Home Coldwater Creek Campus Investors Change Afoot at Sleep’s Cabins Marketwatch: News and Market Trends
Natives and Newcomers Lodging Eats & Drinks Dining Guide Sandpoint of View
The hospital’s building expands as health services grow
100 109 115 116 118
121 128 129 140 146
Wildlife rescue groups are saving everything from raptors to rodents Sculptor Mark Kubiak beautifies and decorates Sherwood Forest trails
44
The diary of New York sportsmen on an 1887 expedition to Priest Lake
69
Bonners Ferry Revitalization is turning it into a destination town Pictured in History: The Grange
70
Sunset Hikes Five hikes worth the walk to catch sundown
65
Almanac Calendar Interview Leonard LeSchack Photo Essay Real Estate
100
Since 1919, agricultural service organization serves Bonner County
On the cover: Clark Fork Studio photogphotographer Jennifer Edwards captured these spawning kokanee jumping over a log at Granite Creek, a prime spawning tributary to Lake Pend Oreille. See more fantastic photos and read all about the fascinating fish that live in our waters, starting on page 76.
On this page, clockwise from the top: Pete Comstock used his GoPro camera underwater to document these spawning kokanee in Trestle Creek; Picard Point tiny home by Woods Wheatcroft; and Indians met by New York sportsmen in Sandpoint, 1887.
59
Fireworks from Gold Hill. PHOTO BY AL SEGER
CONTRIBUTORS Cassandra Cridland
is a freelance writer who lives and loves the West – a passion she attempts to instill in her narrative, whether a nonfiction article or one of her award-winning short stories. A fifth-generation Sandpoint native, her regard for the outdoors came from her parents. In this issue, she explores the secret lives of fishes, from native burbot in the Kootenai, to the coldwater salmonids, to the vast array of warmwater newcomers (page 76), as well as the busy lives of the thatcher ant (page 12). editor’s note Sandpoint Magazine completes 25 years of publication with this issue. That’s 50 issues and approximately 1,200 stories over the years, written by more than 70 writers. I’ve been working on the magazine for 24 and a half years, or slightly more than half my lifetime. That statistic hit me hard this year and made me feel solidly middle-aged. I’m also feeling married these days. My partner became my wedded man March 20 in the Utah desert. My horse Josie (R.I.P.) carried me to him on what would be our next-to-the-last ride. Excuse me while I cry. Back to the magazine. Chris Bessler has been the best boss a girl could have, a mentor and true friend. He’s a shining example of integrity and community-mindedness. The consistently positive feedback we get from our readers boils down to the man at the top. This town is lucky to have a highquality magazine to call its own. I’ve been blessed to be a part of it for so long. I just want to say, dear readers, there is only one Sandpoint Magazine, and you’re holding it. To publish a magazine for 25 years takes tenacity and grit. Hats off to Bessler for making it happen (and keeping me employed)! –B.J.G.
Sandpoint Magazine is published twice yearly, in May and November, by Keokee Co. Publishing, Inc., 405 Church St., Sandpoint, ID 83864. Phone: 208-263-3573 E-mail: inbox@keokee.com Publisher Chris Bessler Editor Billie Jean Gerke Assistant Editor Beth Hawkins Advertising Director Clint Nicholson
8
SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
Don S. Otis
escaped Los Angeles for Sandpoint in 1991. He runs Veritas Communications, a publicity agency. The author of five books and dozens of articles, Otis has lived and worked in the Middle East and Western Europe. He has a passion for the outdoors and has climbed on three continents, including reaching the summits of all 53 ranked 14,000-foot peaks in Colorado. His feature interview with Cold War spy Leonard LeSchack (page 33) is his first contribution for Sandpoint Magazine.
Kris Runberg Smith knew Sandpoint
Magazine would be a great place to share an 1887 diary she discovered at Yale University while researching Priest Lake history (page 59). She edited “Pioneer Voices of Priest Lake,” published by Keokee Books for the Priest Lake Museum. Her “Wild Place: The History of Priest Lake” is published by Washington State University Press in June 2015. Native to northern Idaho, she is now professor of history at Lindenwood University near St. Louis.
Jennifer Sudick is an award-winning writer and
communications professional who recently returned to her hometown of Sandpoint after more than a decade living everywhere from New York City to Honolulu. From writing about lumber marketing (page 11) to economic growth in Bonners Ferry (page 65) to wildlife rescue (page 51), she was reminded why she loves the area: its people. She is lucky to share it all with her husband John and their toddler Jack – both enthusiastic transplants. Art Director Laura Wahl Ad Design Pamela Morrow, Jackie Palmer Office Manager Beth Acker Contributors: Cassandra Cridland, Peter Hicks, Cate Huisman, Julie Hutslar, Jennifer Lamont Leo, Bill Love, Heather McElwain, Charles Mortensen, Don Otis, Carrie Scozzaro, Kris Smith, Jennifer Sudick and Aaron Theisen
SUMMER 2015
©2015 by Keokee Co. Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Subscriptions: $12 per year, payable in advance. Send address changes to the address above. Visit our web magazine published at www.SandpointMagazine.com. Printed in USA by Century Publishing, Post Falls, Idaho.
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7B Hop Heads brewing up fun Cofounders of the new homebrewing club, Mack Deibel, left, and Dave Scherbarth work in the beer business at MickDuff’s Brewing Co. Beer Hall. PHOTO BY BILLIE JEAN GERKE
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op heads in search of a hangout have found it in a new club in town for homebrewers and craft-beer enthusiasts. “The 7B Hop Heads are men and women who enjoy craft beer, would like to learn more about brewing it, and would like to share their craft with others,” said Dave Scherbarth, the group’s cofounder. “ ‘Hop heads’ is a common name for people who like hoppy beers.” In beer lingo, terms like “hoppy,” “yeasty” and “malty” refer to the potency of ingredients that affect the taste of the final product. Scherbarth, who tends bar at MickDuff’s Brewing Co. Beer Hall on Cedar Street, and MickDuff’s assistant brewer, Mack Deibel, hatched plans for the club last summer. “Being new to the area, I figured it would be a good way to meet some like-minded beer lovers and homebrewers,” Scherbarth said. “Running bars and restaurants for the last 10 years, I was able to learn about good beers. My fiancé gave me my first homebrew kit a couple years ago, and I’ve been hooked ever since. I was lucky enough to have a friend here in Sandpoint with a nice electric brewing system that needed a home, so half of my garage is now our brewery.” What’s it like to brew beer in Sandpoint? Scherbarth said weather is a factor, “mostly because you need consistent temperatures for fermenting the beer.” Winter weather can prevent homebrewers from operating an outdoor propane burner, while summer’s heat can kill the yeast needed for proper fermentation. Deibel added: “One of the biggest hurdles is our location, not just because of how far north we are and how much our weather swings, but also because of access to supplies. Luckily, Your Complete Wine Shoppe doubles as a homebrew store to supply us with ingredients, but equipment can still be hard to get at times.”
SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
SUMMER 2015
Since the group’s inaugural brew day Nov. 1, 2014, on National Learn-to-Homebrew Day, Hop Heads members have gathered twice a month: once to sample one another’s brews, share notes, and refine their palates, and once for a “brew day” at a member’s house. “(That) allows us to see how each member brews and the type of brew system they use,” Scherbarth said. “It’s a good way for people new to brewing to see what it takes and helps explain the process of brewing.” Plans in the works include bigger brew events, field trips to local breweries and hop farms, and competitions within the club or with other clubs. Membership in 7B Hop Heads is free and open to anyone with an interest in brewing, including beginners. “Homebrewing is a lot of fun and it doesn’t take a large budget or an extreme amount of effort to get started,” Deibel said. “Even if you just want to watch a brew day or eventually dive in and brew one yourself, we will welcome you into our group and be the first to hand you a beer.” Scherbarth agrees. “It’s a lot easier for people to get involved when they can learn how to brew and see what it takes before diving in head first into something they aren’t sure they’ll enjoy doing. If anyone is interested, we ask that they simply swing by MickDuff’s Beer Hall to sign up in person, or message us on our Facebook page.” –Jennifer Lamont Leo
ALMANAC
He sends cedars to Lebanon
S
ince Biblical times, Lebanon’s cedar trees have been sought after for use in some of the world’s most storied buildings, ships and sacred sites. Today, many of these cedars – the country’s national symbol – have been decimated, forcing builders to look elsewhere for materials. Enter Jamie Emmer, a third-generation wholesale lumberman and one-man sales force for lumber products in the United States and Canada who founded his Hope-based company, Lumber Marketing Services, from his barn in 1990 with $200. Although he lives 6,500 miles from Lebanon’s capital city of Beirut, Emmer has shipped nearly 60 containers of inland Western red cedar and other lumber there in the past three years. The seaside eastern Mediterranean country has some of the highest mountains in the region, along with ski resorts featuring a dozen homes built with timbers sourced by Emmer. “The inland log is much more attractive and dimensionally stable, due to a slower growth rate than the coastal log, which has a higher degree of moisture saturation content,” he said. “Because there is no winter dormancy period on the coast, and since the coast sees twice the rainfall, it leads to bigger knots and wider grain.” After being approached by two Beirut-based builders visiting Heron, Mont., to learn about log home construction, Emmer took a self-taught crash course in overseas exporting and started shipping logs, along with sustainably harvested exotic hardwoods and lumber for decking, flooring, paneling, siding and framing, to Lebanon. Now accounting for an estimated 20 percent of annual sales, rivaling what sells in the Sandpoint area, this export business is showing growth potential in countries including Qatar, Kuwait, Egypt, Saudi Arabia and
Above: One of the handcrafted homes in Lebanon sourced from logs and lumber sold by Jamie Emmer of Hope-based Lumber Marketing Services. SAA LOGS PHOTO Left: Jamie Emmer at work in Idaho. COURTESY PHOTOS
the United Arab Emirates, where log homes are being discovered and prized for their thermal versatility, as well as aesthetic appeal for beach and desert retreats. See www.lumber-marketing.com to learn more. –Jennifer Sudick
For the ospreys, it’s an encore in high def
T
his is Season Four for fans observing the osprey nest at Memorial Field via the live webcam at SandpointOnline.com – and the chief lesson from the first three seasons is to expect surprises. Ospreys have nested above the lights at Memorial Field for decades. When new light standards were erected in late 2011, Sandpoint Online collaborated with the City of Sandpoint to place a webcam on one of the nest platforms. The cam has
provided a rich look into osprey lives, with a different outcome each year as they build their nest, lay eggs, fight off competitors and tend their chicks. In 2012, ospreys laid two eggs but only one hatched; the chick thrived and fledged. The following year, geese colonized the nest and kept the osprey out. Last year, the osprey came back and hatched out three chicks – only to see two succumb to a respiratory disease. The third fledged successfully.
This year, thanks to broad support – including Avista, Northland Communications, Birds of Prey Northwest, the Westside Fire District, Lake Pend Oreille Cruises, Selkirk Welding, Video Security Technology and many individuals – the project’s partners installed a new, high-resolution camera with, for the first time, live sound. This season osprey fans will have their best view yet. Catch the show at www.sandpointospreys.com.
SUMMER 2015
In a scene from last year, osprey feeds three chicks that hatched at Memorial Field
SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
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ALMANAC
Thatcher ants Are they friend or foe?
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A moderately sized thatcher ant colony found along South Center Valley Road, above, hums with activity in the sunshine; inset, close-up photo of the same colony. PHOTOS BY BILLIE JEAN GERKE
he landscape across Idaho’s panhandle is punctuated with the massive, conical mounds of the Western thatching ant. On a warm day, these nests seethe. Wide paths spoke outward, looking like super highways jammed with workers, as they haul away debris and bring in food. But, are they friend or foe? These 4 mm to 9 mm ants are usually red and black but sometimes exhibit a solid dark color and can be confused with more destructive carpenter ants. Colonies are founded when a mated queen locates a suitable site such as a stump or a rock. She digs tunnels beneath the structure and lays eggs. Once the first batch of young grow to maturity, these female workers care for the queen and build the physical nest. Designed to capture favorable sun exposure, these edifices provide protection from weather and temperature fluctuations. Inside, an elaborate warren extends from just beneath the thatching to below the underground frost line. The burrowing nature of these ants aerates the soil and increases water absorption, making them a vital part of natural soil building. According to University of Idaho entomologist Ed Bechinski: “They are overwhelmingly beneficial. Their main food source is other insects.” In a typical year, they will eat the weight of their nest in harmful insects. However, you don’t want them to take up residence in your garden, because they’ve been known to strip young saplings and will protect aphids on plants to “milk” them for honeydew. Bechinski added: “Sometimes, people misidentify them as some sort of fire ant. Thatching ants do not pose any real threat to human health, but they will bite defensively, if disturbed.” Strong jaws and the ability to spray formic acid means their bite can produce a nasty welt, and the acid is strong enough to raise blisters. The most effective way to remove a smaller nest from an undesirable location is to wear protective clothing and dig them out with a shovel. Once they’ve been relocated, flood the area repeatedly with water. For large-scale exterminations, use insecticide. The high moisture content within the thatching makes soaking the mounds with accelerant and setting them on fire more dangerous than productive. For more information on indigenous insects, contact a county extension office; in Bonner County, phone 263-8511. The next time you pass a thatching ant colony, take a moment to study, from a distance, the industry and teamwork of a most beneficial neighbor. –Cassandra Cridland
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SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
SUMMER 2015
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She’s stepping up the game for seniors
Trust
l
ing minimum age is 60. For them, meals are free, but many chip in donations. Weissman’s big project last spring was exploring ways to fund improvements to the parking lot; its heaves, ruts and potholes ward many seniors away from attending evening activities. If that can be fixed, Weissman hopes more will be able to attend bingo nights and expanded evening programs, from dances to screenings of old movies from the 1920s and ’30s at the center, located at 820 Main St. Despite the emphasis on activities, the center’s main mission – and the source of much of its government funding – continues to be its food program. “We serve and send out over 2,000 meals a month,” Weissman said, including weekly deliveries of one hot meal and six frozen ones to isolated rural residents. Meal preparation alone keeps
Compassion
l
Expertise
Sandpoint Area Seniors Executive Director Ellen Weissman takes a break with billiard players at the senior center. PHOTO BY BILLIE JEAN GERKE
a head chef and three assistants busy, while packaging meals is a full-time job for another staff member. See newsletters, calendar and menus online at www.SandpointAreaSeniors.org. –Cate Huisman
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208-263-1421 14
SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
SUMMER 2015
JesseHartPhotography.com
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ast September, Sandpoint Area Seniors, Inc. hired a new director who is adding an infectious energy to the 40-year-old institution. Ellen Weissman, who moonlights as a juggler and clown, was long known as the sprightly, energetic cheerleader leading the volunteer Green Team at the Festival at Sandpoint. Her enthusiasm continues to be evident in her work with seniors. “I like creating situations where people are having a good time,” said Weissman, 62. She has added occasional lunchtime entertainment to the center’s existing events. The center holds dances on the second and fourth Saturday afternoons, bingo Wednesday nights, and card games and billiards several times a week. Both the meals and activities attract paying younger visitors as well as seniors, whose defin-
ALMANAC
It’s food for the kids
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or a growing number of hungry students in Bonner County, Mondays can’t come fast enough – that’s when they get to eat nutritious meals again. “It’s a hometown problem,” Coldwater Creek cofounder and Sandpoint resident Dennis Pence said, “but I think there’s something we can do about it.” Bonner County has a serious hunger problem. Its food insecurity rate is tied for eighth from the bottom in Idaho; meaning that more than 2,000 children have limited or uncertain availability to food. Weekends are definitely a problem when the kids are away from federally funded free or reduced meals. After talking to area educators and organizations, Pence started Food For Our Children – 501(c)(3) nonprofit status is pending – that specifically targets supplying nutritious weekend meals for area students. It aims to bolster the good work already going on through
the charitable Backpack Program that provides bags of food for needy children in three elementary Food For Our Children board of directors, from left, Dennis Pence, Diana Dawson, schools. That’s as Curt Hecker, Roz Holland and Susan Edwards. COURTESY PHOTO far as the money stretches, but just head costs or paid staff. about every principal Pence has spoPence acknowledges that the area’s ken with would like their school to be diverse economic and cultural makeup included in the program. presents its own set of challenges. That’s where Food For Our “Bonner County’s always been a tough Children’s Food2Go program comes place to make it,” he said. Citing statisin. The initial goal is to improve the tics from the Bonner Community Food nutritional quality of the food and start Bank, in the past 14 years or so the a summer pilot program this year; by population has increased approximately next school year, Pence aims to expand 7 percent; during that same time period, the program to more Bonner County the Food Bank has seen an increase of schools. Pence is making the rounds 314 percent in the number of clients through the community, challenging served. “My eyes have been opened,” groups and businesses to step up. He Pence said. calls the program “elegant in its simplicSee www.FoodForOurChildren.org. ity,” emphasizing that there are no over–Beth Hawkins
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ALMANAC
Convoy of Hope Sandpoint coordinators, from left, Eric Rust, Teri Smith, Vicki Jeffres and Dale Jeffres. PHOTO BY DELAINA HAWKINS
Convoy of Hope aims to bring community together
S
OVER 30 YEARS In Sandpoint, Idaho
(208) 263-6713 110 S. First Avenue
www.SunshineGoldmine.com 16
SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
aturday, Oct. 3, 2015, is just another day on the calendar for much of the world, but for Greater Sandpoint, it will be a day of hope. That’s because a collaborative effort of local businesses, churches, agencies and individuals in cooperation with Convoy of Hope will host the area’s first-ever outreach event of this type that day at the Bonner County Fairgrounds. Everyone in Bonner and Boundary counties is invited to attend; the free event is specifically designed to connect with those living at or below the poverty level. “We have a big population of people who are struggling; they’re not homeless but they’re struggling,” said Vicki Jeffres, the event’s volunteer coordinator, who expects at least 2,500 guests – and possibly many more – to attend. Convoy of Hope Sandpoint will have a welcoming, carnival-type atmosphere and includes free groceries, family portraits and haircuts, plus a chance to meet up with employment and health experts, chat with local church leaders, and just enjoy the day. A kids’ zone and entertainment suited for families will be included. “It’s a way to bring our community together,” said Jeffres, a Sandpoint Furniture partner. Led by Cedar Hills Church Pastor Eric Rust, the event requires about 800 volunteers. It’s a community outreach effort conceived by Missouri-based Convoy of Hope aimed at bringing local communities and organizations together. Jeffres said in April the early stages of planning had already brought Sandpoint folks closer together. “When we started this, we didn’t know all these people,” she said. “By the time we get to October, we’ll have a network of people that will know each other better. This is really going to be a big benefit to our entire community.” To volunteer, donate or learn more, visit www.convoyofhope.org/outreach/sandpoint. –Beth Hawkins
SUMMER 2015
Coming this summer:
The Reader is baaaaack
Is something in the water? Sandpoint gives birth to more media than towns many times its size – in print, radio, websites, social media. The newest entry on the media scene is the weekly alternative newspaper, the Sandpoint Reader. Though in fact, it’s not exactly new: The original Reader was launched in 2004 by Zach Hagadone, John Reuter and Chris DeCleur with contributions by writer Ben Olson. Hagadone et al started on a shoestring budget and fueled the paper chiefly with their passion for journalism and community – until 2012 when the original trio departed town for other adventures and the Reader went dark. In January, after a two-year hiatus, the Reader came back to life, with former contributor Olson taking the reins as publisher. Olson recruited Cameron Rasmusson as editor as well as Keokee, publisher of Sandpoint Magazine, as a partner. Olson, well aware from the first go-around of the long hours and potential pitfalls ahead, relates that Hagadone – now editor of the Boise Weekly – “just laughed and laughed” when Olson declared his intent to revive the Reader. “But it’s completely worth it,” Olson said. “I now bleed newsprint.” The weekly tabloid focuses on arts, entertainment and local culture, with forays into long-form features on major local issues. A new and Rasmusson and Olson robust website with daily breaking news is in the offing, and Reader staff are also building strong Facebook and other social channels. “I’m hoping to make the Reader into an institution that serves both spectrums – easy to access for the techies, and familiar to the nostalgic newspaper lovers like myself,” said Olson. The print edition is distributed at more than 100 locations around the area, and circulation has already climbed well above the original. Online, read it at www.SandpointReader.com.
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Aviation inspiration 101
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n a community with a healthy aerospace industry, local high school students have yet another avenue to explore aviation careers – building a kit plane, namely the CH601XL Zodiac. That’s not all: They can follow a high school aerospace curriculum and pursue sport or private pilot licenses. It’s all thanks to volunteers and donors in the community who want to nurture and inspire young people to pursue aviation careers. One of them is Ken Larson, a retired U.S. Air Force pilot, who oversees the high school aviation project. “I have found my passion: watching enthusiastic young people get excited building an airplane!” he said. Barney Ballard, another pilot and volunteer among the wings and bolts, added, “It’s a blast.” At the core of this movement is ACES, a student-run club open to students from all area high schools. With guidance from experienced builders
from Sandpoint Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA) Chapter 1441, students are learning blueprint reading, aircraft structures and systems by building an aircraft. Students explore aviation careers while rubbing elbows with adult mentors. The class “survey of aerospace careers” is taught primarily by guest speakers including mechanics, pilots, an astronaut and even a consultant on rockets. Students can then elect to take “introduction to aerospace engineering,” “introduction to aircraft maintenance” and FAA Ground School. Sandpoint High School junior Carly Orr says the reason she loves the program so much is it provides valuable knowledge for her aviation career choice – medivac helicopter pilot. Meanwhile, EAA sponsors Young Eagles for youth ages 8 to 17 to take
Aviation students Ron Korn, left, and Jake Thompson work on the Zenith Zodiac project plane at Sandpoint High. COURTESY PHOTO
flights with local pilots, who donate their time, says Mary Pepping, the local chapter’s coordinator (flash68@gmx.us). The chapter also offers scholarships to help students earn pilot licenses. With all these opportunities for youth, Sandpoint’s rich aviation history and community is solidified for generations to come. For more information on the high school aerospace program, visit www.highschool aerospace.org. –Julie Hutslar
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Natural history
Book catalog swells
B
ack in 1990, Keokee published its first book, “The Klockmann Diary,” and now 25 years and dozens of books later, the Sandpoint publishing company’s catalog is burgeoning with its newest natural history titles, “Selkirks Spectacular” and “Inland Salish Journey.” Released in November, “Selkirks Spectacular: A Journey on the International Selkirk Loop” is a combination of efforts by American photographers Jerry Pavia and Tim Cady, from Boundary County, and Canadian author Ross Klatte, from Balfour, British Columbia, who wrote chapters on history, natural features, major attractions, and flora and fauna. More than 300 images illustrate the beauty found along the driving tour in two countries, one province and three states. “I’ve lived in North Idaho for over 30 years,” said Pavia, “and until photo-
graphing this book I really didn’t appreciate the wildlands, wildlife, towns and people who live along the Selkirk Loop.” The book is unique in that it has two covers, one for the Canadian side of the loop and one for the U.S. side. Halfway through, readers turn it over and start from the other side. At 180 full-color pages, it retails for $34. “Inland Salish Journey: Fur Trade to Settlement” is the grand history of the fascinating fur trade era (1800 to 1877) and the Inland Salish Indians, tribes that include the Spokanes, Coeur d’Alenes, upper and lower Pend Oreilles (Kalispel), Flatheads and Colvilles. A retired forester and trapper,
author Mike Reeb spent eight years researching the history of the fur trade, a critical time in the Indians’ history that led to enormous changes in their lives. Reeb worked and played covthroughout the region cov ered in the book; in retirement, he wanted to learn more about the area’s early history. His research led him to travel thousands of miles and visit exhaustive archives of journals and documents left behind by explorers, fur traders, trappers, missionaries, Indian agents and others who lived among the Salish in the 1800s. The 318-page book sells for $19. See more at www.KeokeeBooks.com.
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Art Works Gallery celebrates 20 years
T
here isn’t just one reason Art Works Gallery has endured where others have not, say founding members Barbara Janusz and Teddi Garner. There are four components of their success: community support, affordable and original art, artists readily accessible to gallery visitors, and a cooperative business model. Ever since the gallery opened in 1995, the community has been supportive, say Janusz and Garner. For example, The Daily Bee and then-arts editor Valle Novak ran profiles of gallery artists over several months. At the time, they had 13 members and were located at 109 Main St., next door to a shop run by Debbie Ziesemer, who now sells her photography and jewelry through Art Works. The gallery has relocated several times as it has grown, including into the Power House building and the former Lyman Gallery in the W.A. Bernd Building. Since 2005, Art Works Gallery has been at 214 First Ave., the location of a former gallery with concrete walls covered in black carpeting. White walls and glass display cabinets take advantage of light streaming in from both First
Avenue and Sand Creek entryways (some customers even arrive by boat!). Art Works continues to benefit from an arts-centered community, with support from such organizations as Pend Oreille Arts Council and radio station KRFY, which has featured gallery artists on its Morning Show. The artist roster has grown to 30, ranging from Denys Knight’s copper and mixed media assemblages to Sally Dennison’s vibrant floral watercolors to Maria Trujillo’s photography to the glimmering glass and precious metal clay jewelry by Susie Pace. Artworks vary in price, media and content, from the whimsical Earth Dance figures of Cyndi E. Morgan to the luminous pastel landscapes by T. Kurtz. The gallery’s format ensures that artists not only have a stake in the gallery’s success, they also have a built-in support network for pricing, installing and promoting their work. “The dedication and cooperation amongst members makes Art Works unique,” said Garner, who founded the gallery with Janusz and fellow artist Kaaren Stoner. “Working together as a team, leaving ego outside the front door SUMMER 2015
and digging in with respect and admiration for each members’ talents – that makes Art Works special!” Garner added. Once juried in, a monthly fee plus percentage of sales commission, and gallery sitting assignments ensure the gallery’s continuity. For visitors, that means artists are on hand to answer questions about the gallery, its artists or even just the Sandpoint arts scene. Art Works Gallery celebrates its 20th anniversary June 19, from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. The gallery is open daily in summer.
Above left: Art Works is a vibrant artist cooperative going strong for 20 years. PHOTO BY DON FISHER
Above right and above: Interior images show the variety of mediums by member artists. PHOTOS BY FOSTER CLINE
See www.sandpointartworks.com. –Carrie Scozzaro SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
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Road cycling in organized fashion
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nyone who’s discovered the joys of bicycle riding may also want to discover the joy of organized rides. For road cyclists, these make for an excellent way to experience Sandpoint, see the country beyond and meet other cyclists.
CHAFE With the warm-but-not-yet-hot days of spring comes the CHAFE 150, a June 20 event the Rotary Club of Sandpoint uses to raise funds to support local students on the autism spectrum. Although it’s a ride, not a race, the CHAFE includes a timed 150-mile Gran Fondo for
experienced riders, along with an 80-mile “half-CHAFE” and a 30-mile fun ride. The 150-milers depart City Beach in the cool of early morning and cruise to Bonners Ferry, down the Bull River Valley and back to Sandpoint along Lake Pend Oreille. The 80-milers are bused to Troy, Mont., for the start line,
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ALMANAC Pedaling the scenic Bull River Valley in the 2014 CHAFE, one of a few organized road rides in the area. PHOTO BY JASON DUCHOW
and then follow the same route back to Sandpoint. The 30-milers leave City Beach for a pastoral ride through the Selle Valley and back. All riders and the public are invited to enjoy a post-ride party. See www.chafe150.org.
nights, but in Sandpoint they camp at City Beach and eat out on the town. “That gave us a chance to be part of the town a little bit; that was fun,” said Hurley, who will be returning to ride the tour again this summer. She could work for the Chamber of Commerce here: “Your area is just so stunningly beautiful,” she said. “It made me want to come back.” See www.rideidaho.org.
Ride Idaho
WaCanId
Ride Idaho, a week-long bike tour held every August, brings 400-plus recreational cyclists through Sandpoint every couple of years. The route varies, but this year it begins and ends in Coeur d’Alene, Aug. 15-22, and riders will have a layover day in Sandpoint. “Ride Idaho is kind of a small ride, so you get to know people better,” said repeat rider Cathy Hurley of Folsom, Calif., who notes that some similar tours elsewhere can have thousands of riders. Community organizations or churches provide homemade meals or barbecues where the group camps most
In September, the WaCanId riders gather to begin their tour of the International Selkirk Loop, a scenic road tour into Canada that starts and ends in Sandpoint. Another Rotary Club fundraiser, volunteers share chores and funds raised are split among seven clubs in the United States and Canada. Set for Sept. 14-19 this year, the ride draws local Rotarians Clif and Carol Warren for sagwagon support every year. “The memorable part is the people, the riders you meet,” Clif said, noting that while the majority of riders are from the Inland Northwest, they’ve met
SUMMER 2015
people from Alaska, Tennessee and Connecticut, as well as one from Clif’s hometown in Illinois. Last year the Warrens spent a lot of time with three leisurely riders from the San Francisco area who were consistently at the back of the pack. “They told us it was the best supported ride they had ever been on,” Clif Warren said.
Full Moon Perhaps it’s a bit of a push to include Full-moon Bike Club (FBC) rides among a list of organized rides. They seem to swell up spontaneously out of the biking ether, and no one is in charge. While serious cyclists attend, so do riders who haul their bikes out of the garage only once a month. In the summer months, 150 to 200 riders, both locals and visitors, might turn out to pedal in the moonlight. FBC rides often involve costumes or themes, and they always end up at a local watering hole. See www.fbcsandpoint.com. –Cate Huisman
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Where are they now? Following stories from the last issue to capture the sunrise on Lake Pend Oreille, every single day. He reached day 1,716 April 21, and Aug. 9 will make five years. His camera broke this spring, and one of his fans insisted on running a fundraising campaign to help pay for repairs. Since his story was published, he has presented slide shows for conservation groups and been interviewed on the radio twice. “Someone labeled me the New Pend Oreille Pete, but I personally think that’s overboard,” Miller said. “I just do what I do with the limitations I have.” Above: Elaine Howley dressed as Wonder Woman for a costume contest in the Cupid Splash in March, a splashand-dash event to raise funds for an environmental nonprofit. COURTESY PHOTO
Right: The Sandpoint Depot shines in its renovated glory. PHOTO BY AL SEGER
E
laine Howley (“A Lap Across Lake Pend Oreille,” page 130) won the hearts
of locals last summer when she became the first person to swim the length of Lake Pend Oreille, 32.3 miles from Buttonhook Bay to City Beach, in a little more than 20 hours over July 30-31. Since then, she has received two prestigious nominations: one of 12 candidates for the World Open Water Swimming Association’s 2014 Woman of the Year award and a finalist for the Barra Award, the highest honor bestowed by the Marathon Swimmers Federation. In February, Howley competed in the second annual 24-Hour Relay in San Francisco and the first U.S. Winter Swimming Championship in Newport, Vermont, where organizers cut the course out of 3-foot thick ice in Lake Memphremagog. Now, she’s turning her attention to training for her next challenge: swimming the 23-mile length of Loch Ness in Scotland at the end of August. Godspeed and may she spy Nessie!
Stuart Nelson (Interview, page 27) experienced a most unusual Iditarod in March, his 20th year as the race’s chief veterinarian. After a ceremonial start in Anchorage March 7, the entire race moved north to Fairbanks, Alaska, for the official start two days later. Fresh snow had fallen and temperatures started dropping rapidly, with some mushers recording minus 60 in places. The alternate route took them through two villages in the interior that the race had never gone through before, including Huslia and Koyukuk. Nelson is planning another river trip this year, likely flying into Pat Lake in the northern Yukon Territory and portaging north into
Photographer Kirk Miller (“A Photographic Odyssey,” page 75) is soldiering on in his quest 24
SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
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a drainage that flows into the Hart River, then into the Peel River and on to Fort McPherson, Northwest Territories, in the MacKenzie Delta region. “I’m not sure how many days the portage will take, as the drainage I’m targeting will likely not have much water volume. If the summer is dry, I could be walking quite some time before I can float my inflatable,” he said. In last summer’s cover story on trains, Cate Huisman wrote about the pending rejuvenation of Sandpoint’s historic 1916 Gothicstyle depot (page 84, Summer 2014). Throughout winter, driv-
ers on the Sand Creek Byway witnessed steady progress on the building unfold with workers from Idagon Homes on scaffolding, behind plastic sheeting and on the green-tiled roof. The depot won an Orchid Award, “Excellence in Historic Preservation,” from Preservation Idaho, which is holding its Awards Ceremony May 30 at the Sandpoint Events Center. The depot is being unveiled for the public that day with a ribboncutting ceremony at 2:30 p.m. with representatives from Amtrak and possibly Idaho state government. Look up www.sandpointtrain station.com for more details. –Billie Jean Gerke
NEW ARRIVALS
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Ca l e n d a r
CALENDAR
See complete, up-tothe-minute calendars at SandpointOnline.com
JUNE
Sandpoint Farmers Market. Open-air market every Wednesday and Saturday through Oct. 10 in Farmin Park. 597-3355 6 Summer Sounds. Downtown concert series takes place from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. on the Park Place stage, near the corner of First and Cedar. Sponsored by Sandpoint B.I.D. and the Holly Eve Foundation. Patrice Webb and Doug Bond perform. 263-2161 7 Bay Trail Fun Run. Third annual 5K/10K benefits Pend d’Oreille Bay Trail. 265-9565 12 Take a Seat at the Table. Auction of
fabulous chairs created by artists benefits NAMI Far North, with fine dinner and live music at Columbia Bank. 597-6911 12 Troy Bullock. Sandpoint Films presents country music singer and former native resident Troy Bullock in concert, 8 p.m. in the Panida. 290-0597 13 Sand Creek Paddlers Challenge.
Sandpoint Parks and Recreation’s 7th annual canoe and kayak race up and back on Sand Creek. 236-3613 13 Summer Sounds. A Touch of Jazz per-
forms. See June 6.
19 ArtWalk. Browse local venues and view
art during opening receptions for the 38th annual event, sponsored by Pend Oreille Arts Council. Exhibits remain on display through Sept. 11. ArtinSandpoint.org. 263-6139
19 Sandpoint Relay for Life. American Cancer Society benefit at the Bonner County Fairgrounds. 19-21 Anniversary Party. Pend d’Oreille
Winery, 301 Cedar St., hosts three-day celebration. Live music and specials. 265-8545 20 CHAFE 150. Sandpoint Rotary spon-
sors annual benefit ride on a 150-mile route through Idaho and Montana, or opt for the 1/2 CHAFE at 80 miles or the 30-mile fun ride. See story, page 22. CHAFE150.org.
20 Summer Sounds. Swing Street Combo
performs. See June 6.
20 Battle of the Bulls. Annual bull rid-
ing and barrel-racing contest at the Bonner County Fairgrounds. 263-8414
25 Yappy Hour. A tail-waggin’ good time! Bring your dog and enjoy a Panhandle Animal Shelter benefit with live music, beverages and fun, 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. at Pine Street Bakery, 710 Pine St. 265-7297 25 Summer Sampler. See Hot Picks. 27 Summer Sounds. Peter Lucht performs.
See June 6.
[HOTHOT PICKS] [Hot PICKS
Savor summer! Every June, the Greater Sandpoint Chamber of Commerce hosts a Summer Sampler event that’s second to none – gathering up the area’s finest restaurants, breweries and wineries downtown in Farmin Park. This year’s event June 25 is a foodie’s perfect way to kick off the summer season; along with delicious bite-sized samples of gourmet cuisine, enjoy a Litehouse-sponsored cooking competition where local chefs battle for the win. It’s all about food! www.SandpointChamber.org, 263-2161
Run and relax Schweitzer Mountain Resort hosts some pretty awesome parties, and the Mountain Music Festival July 18 is a local favorite because it’s all about taking it easy and enjoying great sounds during a full-day lineup of bands in the Schweitzer Village’s scenic outdoor setting. On top of that, there’s a barbecue, beverages, and activities that’ll entertain the kiddos. If you want to squeeze in a little exercise beforehand, check out the 4th Annual Schweitzer Mountain Trail Run in the morning for a 3.5 or 10-mile run on the cross-country trails. www.Schweitzer.com, 255-3081 Create fair memories Guaranteed, the family will remember a visit to the Bonner County Fair, happening Aug. 11-15 at the fairgrounds, 4203 N. Boyer Ave. Besides a great lineup of entertainers and bands, livestock barns and exhibitors’ booths, plus fun contests, at long last you can SUMMER 2015
take a spin on a carnival ride – new this year. The Challenge of Champions Tour Bull Riding will be rockin’ the outdoor arena at 7:30 p.m. Aug. 14, followed by a dance featuring Devon Wade. Plus, the fair ends with crashes and thrills at the Demolition Derby, 7 p.m. Aug. 15. www.BonnerCountyFair.com, 263-8414 Crazy for cars Good thing classic car shows aren’t just held in May. That’s because the 16th annual Powered by the Past Injectors Car Show Sept. 12, sponsored by the Sandpoint Injectors Auto Club, helps raise funds for local charities. The corner of Second and Main is Car Show Central - and extends several blocks in each direction. View 100-plus classic cars, plus get in on the funspirited action with a Frozen T-shirt contest, trivia events with prizes, plus drawings and silent auctions. All proceeds benefit Bonner Community Hospice, Bonner Community Food Bank, Community Cancer Services, Lions Club Toys for Tots, and senior lunch programs. www.SandpointInjectors.com Do the time warp … again! We all know the Rocky Horror Show story: a newly engaged couple has a breakdown in a remote area and must pay a call to the bizarre residence of Dr. Frank-N-Furter. From there, pure craziness ensues, both on the screen and inside the theater at midnight screenings ever since the film first debuted in 1975. And now, the hit cult-classic musical arrives for its 40th anniversary celebration at the Panida Theater, with live performances at 7:30 p.m. Oct. 29-31. The American Laboratory Theatre production features local talent and is directed by Jesús Quintero. www. AmericanLabTheatre.com, 534-1140
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CALENDAR
[Festival at Sandpoint]
The 33rd annual Festival at Sandpoint, held in a casual atmosphere at Memorial Field on Lake Pend Oreille, creates a concert experience without equal. The eight performance dates fall over two weeks from August 6-16. Buy a season pass or individual tickets by calling 2654554, toll-free 888-265-4554, or go to www.FestivalatSandpoint.com. Gates open at 6 p.m. Thursdays and Fridays, and 4:30 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. Thursday, Aug. 6 Arlo Guthrie Arlo is a folk singer who, like his father Woody, is known for singing songs of protest against social injustice. Guthrie’s best-known works include “Alice’s Restaurant Massacree,” a satirical talking blues song, and “City of New Orleans.” Guthrie performed at the original Woodstock. Come early for a microbrew tasting. Friday, Aug. 7 Ziggy Marley Jamaican singer Ziggy Marley is the oldest son of reggae giant Bob Marley and is best known as a talented reggae musician in his own right with seven Grammy Awards and a string of hits. Saturday, Aug. 8 Vince Gill Country singer Vince Gill has charted more than 40 singles on the U.S. Billboard and earned 20 Grammy Awards – more than any other male country music artist.
28 Schweitzer Summer Celebration.
Season opener at Schweitzer Mountain Resort with chairlift rides, family activities and wine tasting. 255-3081
JULY
4 Fourth of July Celebration. Lions Club parades downtown in the morning, afternoon stage performances and a raffle at City Beach, and fireworks over the lake at dusk. 263-4118 4 Fireworks Extravaganza at Silverwood. Celebrate at Silverwood Theme
Park with patriotic music and fireworks at dusk. 683-3400
4 Summer Sounds. Selkirk Society Band performs. See June 6. 11 Classic Boat Festival. Wooden boats, water-themed activities, contests and more along Sand Creek. 263-2161 11 Great Sandpoint Flatwater Regatta.
Sandpoint Rotary hosts canoe, kayak and paddleboard “fun run” in Sand Creek, starting at 10 a.m. at the Bridge Street bridge. 946-6079 11 Summer Sounds. Folk Remedy per-
forms. See June 6.
Sunday, Aug. 9 Family Concert: Seasons’ Greetings Round up the kids and head to the festival’s Family Concert, featuring the Spokane Youth Orchestra conducted by Gary Sheldon. Fun activities for the kids, including an Instrument Petting Zoo and an Animal Petting Zoo, help round out the always-popular family concert.
12 Jacey’s Race. Sandpoint High School
Thursday, Aug. 13 Lake Street Dive Indie jazz band Lake Street Dive was named after a street with seedy bars, and members of the four-piece group garnered huge media attention after posting their Jackson 5 cover of “I Want You Back,” filmed on a Boston sidewalk, on YouTube. The quartet is led by singer Rachael Price. Enjoy a Dive Bar Drink Special in the Festival Bar.
Fine art poster unveiling at Dover Bay with live music. 265-4554
Friday, Aug. 14 Trampled by Turtles and The Devil Makes Three Progressive bluegrass and folk-rock band Trampled by Turtles hails from Minnesota, where frontman Dave Simonett formed the group in 2003. Their crossover appeal landed them at No. 32 on the Billboard 200 pop charts with their album Stars and Satellites. Opening is Devil Makes Three. Saturday, Aug. 15 Wilco Chicago’s alternative rock band Wilco was formed in 1994, and won a Grammy Award for Best Alternative Music Album. Jeff Tweedy and company’s musical style has evolved from a 1990s country rock sound to a current “eclectic indie rock collective.” Sunday, Aug. 16 Grand Finale “Viva Italia!” with Spokane Symphony Orchestra Maestro Gary Sheldon conducts the Spokane Symphony Orchestra in a Viva Italian Grand Finale featuring piano soloist Vadim Neselovski. Fireworks cap off the concert, plus arrive early for complimentary wine tasting at 4:30 p.m.
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hosts competitive 5k race for runners and walkers and 1k fun run for kids to benefit local children with cancer or life-threatening illnesses. Jaceys-Race.com
16 Festival at Sandpoint Art Unveiling.
17-18 Hour of the Wolf. Jesús Quintero directs, performs story of a man on the anniversary of loved one’s death, 7 p.m., Hope Marketplace, 620 Wellington Pl. www. AmericanLabTheatre.com 18 Mountain Music Festival and Schweitzer Trail Run. See Hot Picks. 18 Summer Sounds. Larry Mooney per-
forms. See June 6.
18 Bodacious BBQ. 32nd annual fund-
raiser features a luau at the Litehouse Beach House to benefit Hope’s Memorial Community Center. 264-5481
24-25 Hour of the Wolf. See June 17-18. 24-26 The Garden of Artistry Invitational Fine Art Show. Featuring
regional and guest professional artists at Ponderay Garden Center. 265-9613 24-26 Northwest YogaFeast. Eureka
Institute in Sagle hosts weekend of enrichment for body, mind and spirit. 263-2217
25 Crazy Days. Downtown merchants offer big deals in annual sidewalk sale. 263-2161 25 Summer Sounds. Special Crazy Days show: Backstreet Dixie performs at 10 a.m.; Carl Rey and the Blues Gators perform at noon; Northern Exposure performs at 2
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p.m.; Hoodoo Two performs at 4 p.m. See June 6. 30 Yappy Hour. At Trinity at City Beach, 58
Bridge St. See June 25. 265-7297
AUGUST
524 Church St. See June 25. 265-7297 29 Summer Sounds. Kathy Colton and the Reluctants perform. See June 6.
SEPTEMBER
1.76-mile swim across Lake Pend Oreille. LongBridgeSwim.org.
5-7 Schweitzer Fall Fest. Annual Labor Day Weekend celebration includes live music, 60-plus microbrews on tap, family activities and fun! 255-3081
1 Summer Sounds. Ruff Shodd performs.
5 Summer Sounds. Triolet performs. See
See June 6.
June 6.
2 Schweitzer Huckleberry Festival.
5-6 Coaster Classic Car Show. Nostalgic cars at Silverwood Theme Park. 683-3400
1 Long Bridge Swim. 21st annual
Celebration with music, food, crafts and more in honor of the huckleberry at Schweitzer. 255-3081 6-16 Festival at Sandpoint. See Festival at
12 Injectors Car Show. See Hot Picks. 12 Dover Bay 5k-9 Fun Run. Dover Bay
Sandpoint calendar.
hosts 5k-9 Fun Run to benefit the Panhandle Animal Shelter. 265-7297
7-8 Aftival. The Hive, 207 N. First Ave., hosts a concert at 9 p.m. following the Festival. View lineup at www.LiveFromTheHive.com.
12 Harvest Party. Pend d’Oreille Winery’s annual event with grape stomping, live music, fall wine release and deals. 265-8545
8 Celebrate Life Fun Run/Walk. 12th
annual Long Bridge trek assists local residents with cancer plus cancer-related organizations.
14-19 WaCanId Ride. Tour two states and one province on the seventh annual 350-mile/560-kilometer WaCanId Ride. See story, page 22. 888-823-2626
8 Wings Over Sandpoint Fly-In.
20 Scenic Half. Presented by Greater
Sandpoint EAA Chapter 1441 hosts breakfast and invites regional pilots to fly into Sandpoint Airport and display a variety of aircraft. 255-9954 8-9 Arts & Crafts Fair. POAC’s annual
juried art exhibit at Sandpoint City Beach, with artists’ booths, kids’ activities and more. 263-6139
8 Summer Sounds. Broken Whistle per-
forms. See June 6.
8-9 Bonner County PRCA Rodeo. Annual rodeo at 7 p.m. each night at the Bonner County Fairgrounds. 263-8414 11-15 Bonner County Fair. See Hot Picks. 14-15 Spokane-to-Sandpoint Relay Race.
Runners and walkers begin atop Mt. Spokane, and teams make their way 185 miles through 15 cities en route to the finish line at Sandpoint’s City Beach. S2S has become one of the Pacific Northwest’s premier running events. 541-633-7174 14-15 Aftival. See Aug. 7-8. 14-16 Artists’ Studio Tour. The 11th
annual self-guided driving tour of working studios through North Idaho. 800-800-2106
15 Summer Sounds. Mobius Riff performs.
See June 6.
20 Cyrano de Bergerac. Montana
Sandpoint Chamber of Commerce, this seventh annual event features a half marathon, plus 10k and 5k fun runs. 263-2161
24 Yappy Hour. At Eichardt’s Pub, 212 Cedar St. 265-7297 25-27 Idaho Draft Horse and Mule International. The Northwest’s largest draft
horse and mule expo at the Bonner County Fairgrounds. 263-8414
OCTOBER Weekends in October:
U-Pick Pumpkin Patch at Hickey Farms on the outskirts of Sandpoint hosts its third year of festive family fun with a pumpkin patch, games, local artisan products and more. Scarywood Haunted Nights is a spooky tradition! Silverwood Theme Park becomes Scarywood during the month of October with goblins and spooks galore! www. ScarywoodHaunt.com. 3 Convoy of Hope. Bonner County Fairgrounds hosts free event for the community featuring free goods and services; supported by local businesses, organizations, churches and individuals. See story, page 16. 3 Banff Radical Reels. Mountain Fever presents film event, 7 p.m. in the Panida Theater. 263-9191
Shakespeare in the Park, 6 p.m. (MDT) at the Trout Creek Park in Trout Creek, Mont. 406827-3226
10 Harvest Fest. Sandpoint Farmers Market
21-23 Artists’ Studio Tour. See Aug. 14-16. 22 Summer Sounds. Bridges Home per-
17 Warren Miller Ski Film. Annual event at the Panida, sponsored by the Alpine Shop. 263-5157
27 Yappy Hour. At Evans Brothers Coffee,
29-31 The Rocky Horror Show. See Hot Picks.
forms. See June 6.
celebrates with season-ending party in Farmin Park. 597-3355
See complete, up-to-the-minute calendars at SandpointOnline.com SUMMER 2015
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d l u o h s u o Y ! e r e h e b XOXO
Saturday Morning at the Farmers Market 2014 (MASON WHITE)
Downtown Sandpoint has it ALL! A fabulous 2week music festival in Aug.
Bikes and bike paths everywhere
a lively Beach, right downtown
outdoor dining
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Interview Interview
Leonard LeSchack Spy, scientist and Navy captain By Don Otis
T
he four engines on the converted B-17 bomber, flown by CIA, roared as it swung low over the frigid Arctic. It was a welcome sound to the two intrepid spies. Five days earlier, May 28, 1962, they had plummeted out that B-17’s “Joe hole” – where the belly turret had been – at 1,200 feet in subzero temperatures. Although the two parachuted safely onto a floating Soviet ice station, NP 8 (North Pole No. 8), their mission of espionage against the Soviet Union was just beginning. The Cold War was more than a metaphor for U.S. Navy Lt. Leonard A. LeSchack and Russian linguist, U.S. Air Force Major James F. Smith. It was less than six months before the Cuban Missile Crisis, and relations between the Soviets and the Americans were spiraling out of control. LeSchack, now 80 and a resident of Bonners Ferry, had hatched a plan that sounded more like a stunt out of a James Bond film. A year later he helped execute the mission, code named Project COLDFEET. While getting the two men to the station wasn’t difficult, getting them off safely was both complicated and risky. The newly established Defense Intelligence Agency, CIA, Army, Navy and Air Force worked together, which was unprecedented, as was their use of the complex Fulton’s Skyhook surface-to-air recovery system to pluck the spies and their booty off the ice. COLDFEET was a resounding success. LeSchack received the presidential Legion of Merit in 1962. Two decades later, he attained a new rank, Navy captain – equivalent to Army or Air Force colonel. Twice more during the Cold War, in 1965 and in 1973, he conducted further espionage in the Soviet Union. LeSchack spent a total of 30 years in the U.S. Navy besides having a career as a petroleum geologist and geophysicist. After his retirement in 1989, he eventually found his way to northern Idaho, where he now lives, writes, and shares his story about a life of adventure and intrigue. LeSchack is a Cold War hero, maverick, scientist, lover of classical music, history buff, and the author of his memoirs, “He Heard A Different Drummer.”
Your parents’ families were immigrants from Ukraine in the early 1900s. What values did they pass on to you?
My father became a lawyer and mom was a history teacher, both in New York City. They were liberal Jewish pacifists. Mom is the one who encouraged me in adventure; or, maybe
Leonard LeSchack holds his recently published memoir, “He Heard a Different Drummer,” that highlights his life as a spy in the Cold War years. PHOTO BY BILLIE JEAN GERKE
I should say she didn’t discourage it. As a lawyer dad was always cautious, saying things like, “Don’t jump off that rock into the water.” Mom force fed me history and made me read the Constitution. My parents read to me every night. What kind of books?
They read books about explorers, adventurers, and inventors. Even as a child I wanted to travel to “faraway places with strange sounding names” as the Bing Crosby song said. Some of my favorite stories were about Lewis and Clark, Admiral Byrd, and Admiral Perry.
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Interview
Where did you grow up?
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I grew up in Freeport, New York, on Long Island. It was an anti-Semitic neighborhood during War II. The neighborhood boys would repeat that old saying, “Jewish boys didn’t, or wouldn’t fight.” That got to me as a child who knew no better. However, I carried that leaden baggage bottled up in me for years! When the Israelis successfully rescued 105 Jewish hostages from terrorists in Uganda in 1976, everything changed for me. It was like a huge weight forever lifted from my shoulders. You had another revelation in high school. What happened?
It was a hot day and one of the young teenaged girls sitting near me in my history class stretched to raise her arms. To my horror she had a concentration camp number tattooed on her arm, a “Nazi license plate.” Mom had taught me a lot about history but not much about the horrors of war. That event set in (motion) my decision to learn military skills along with my academic studies. Where did you go to school?
I started Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute (in Troy, N.Y.) in 1952. After finishing the first two years in electrical engineering, I switched majors and began studying geology. It was here that I learned about the U.S. Antarctic Expedition during the International Geophysical Year (IGY) and applied 34
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Leonard LeSchack works as assistant seismologist on the U.S. Antarctic Expedition, November 1957. COURTESY PHOTOS
to join it. I graduated as a petroleum geologist and was accepted into Shell Oil’s geophysical training program. By the end of 1957, I was asked to join the Antarctic Expedition as an assistant seismologist. How did you end up in the military?
I noticed a common denominator about all my favorite explorers; they were commissioned by the government or had military training. Second, after I was accepted for the U.S Antarctic Expedition, I had an 18-month deferment from the draft; 14 of those months were spent in Antarctica. The U.S. Navy handled most of the logistics, and I got to know the Navy officers and men. The Navy’s senior commander in the Antarctic agreed to recommend me for Navy Officer Candidate School once I applied after returning to the U.S. As a child you wanted to be a scientist and an explorer. Did you find the adventure you were looking for?
Yes, indeed. There was plenty of science and adventure, all funded by Cold War dollars. During this time the Russians launched Sputnik 1 and 2. Frightened by Soviet capabilities demonstrated by the Sputniks, the U.S. government made a decision to substan-
Interview
Becoming an officer in the U.S. Navy, 1959
tially increase funding for the military and advanced science. This shaped U.S. domestic and foreign policy for the next several decades, and funded many of my adventures. Project COLDFEET was your brainchild. How did it come together?
The Soviets were active in the Arctic, but we weren’t certain what they were capable of doing. I recognized the importance of being able to track nuclear submarines beneath the ice as a result of assisting the Navy in setting up an acoustic array in the Arctic Ocean in 1960. I came up with the idea to investigate a recently abandoned Soviet drift station to determine if they had the capability to track our subs. I brought up the idea to my boss over a martini lunch in Washington, D.C.
How did that work out?
I suggested the next time one of the Soviet drift stations was abandoned that we go in and take a look at it. My guess was they would leave behind some useful intelligence. My boss thought about it for a moment and then said, “What do you want to do, be an American James Bond?” But he didn’t dismiss the idea. Then what happened?
I agitated just enough. The DIA (Defense Intelligence Agency) was just set up and provided the funding. The CIA provided the aircraft with Skyhook Aero-retrieval system; the Navy and the Air Force were all involved. The problem had been finding the funding for the plane, the crew and then executing the plan. Once abandoned, the drift
LeSchack visited the CIA in 2008, where he was honored with a Special Operations Group Challenge Coin. The agency also unveiled an oil painting depicting the Skyhook pickup
stations disintegrated quickly into the Arctic Ocean so time was critical. Once the plan was approved, did you have any apprehensions?
Yes, I asked myself, “What hath I wrought?” The mission had all the trappings of a World War II OSS (Office of Strategic Services) spy mission. The more it unfolded the more I thought, “What have I gotten myself into?” Once the plan had been accepted, I lived in a constant state of subdued terror. But the COLDFEET Mission was exactly what you wanted – adventure?
That’s right. The key to success in life is putting yourself in the right situations. You have to make your own opportunities and then live with them. What made you uniquely qualified for the mission?
I had 14 months of polar experience in Nov. 1, 1962: LeSchack, left, and Jim Smith, right receive the Legion of Merit from the secretaries of the Navy and Air Force, respectively, for their roles in Project COLDFEET
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the Antarctic and four months on Air Force Drift Station T-3. I knew exactly what to look for on any abandoned Soviet drift station.
onto the booty bag to keep it from being pulled away from us by the winds aloft. The wind stress was such that a safety feature of the pickup system was lost!
Your pickup in the Arctic didn’t go exactly as planned. What happened?
How did that work?
The Fulton Skyhook could only pick up one item or person at a time. We had just three complete kits so if anything went wrong, we would be in trouble. The booty bag with the intelligence was the first to go. Jim and I both had to hold
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With the booty bag safely hauled into the B-17, it was my turn to be picked up. I had a suit, helmet and a face mask with eye slits cut out because of the extreme cold. The B-17 flew over, caught my line but dragged me across the ice directly toward a pressure ridge. There was about 140 feet of slack in the line combined with a 15 to 20 knot wind. When the line finally caught me, I was facing forward rather than backward. My mask turned and I was suddenly blinded. I had five seconds to adjust it before the line became taut and pulled me upward. Once I was in the air, I found that by using my arms as ailerons, I could make adjustments while being pulled behind the plane. But I couldn’t breathe. I forced myself into a 180-degree roll so my back would be to the wind. It took six to seven minutes of dangling from the line before
April 1962 at Resolute Bay, Northwest Territories: LeSchack, left, was hunting for an abandoned Soviet listening station off the coast of Canada with Major Jim Smith, a U.S. Air Force intelligence officer and Russian linguist, right
they winched me into the plane. What happened once you were inside?
I was stressed from the ordeal. The mission doctor checked me and Jim out and declared us unharmed. We celebrated with a bottle of Vat 69 scotch provided us by the CIA air boss who was onboard, and then Jim and I promptly fell asleep. Less than six hours later we landed in Barrow, Alaska. Where did your career take you then?
My next assignment was U.S. official representative to the Argentine Navy in the 1962-63 Antarctic Expedition during which time I served on their icebreaker, San Martin. I then studied in Paris at Les Expéditions Polaires Françaises and geophysics at the University of Wisconsin (Madison). I traveled to Panama, Peru and Colombia to conduct environmental research under various U.S. government contracts. Part of my role was to determine the potential for political terrorism in
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Interview this part of the world. In 1973 I visited Siberia as part of a scientific delegation to the Second International Permafrost Conference; the Soviet Academy of Sciences invited me based on a paper I wrote on permafrost in Alaska. The conference and the associated field trip through Gulag Archipelago country was an unusual opportunity for gathering intelligence. The Navy eventually called me back to active duty to run the Cuban-Haitian Refugee Center in Puerto Rico. Then they ordered me to the U.S. Naval Station at Panama Canal where I became that command’s intelligence officer. After my release from active duty, I moved my private research office from Maryland to the Florida Keys and worked with my midget oceanographic research submarine. I called it my “yellow submarine.” When the Navy learned that I had moved to the Florida Keys and was still in the Navy Reserve, they asked me to set up a Naval Reserve Intelligence Unit to support the then-recently established U.S. Forces Caribbean Command in Key West. I became its first commanding officer and also served as deputy chief of intelligence for that command. What do you like most about living in Bonners Ferry?
Many veterans settle here. They feel comfortable and accepted in this community, as do I. So many Vietnam veterans came home and were treated poorly elsewhere. Many of them settled in Boundary County. The state of Idaho is also one of the most economical places to live and retire. Any regrets about your life?
No, none at all. Basically, this is the life I chose. What I found is a lot of opportunity can be folded into adventure, if seen that way. My life has been an interesting and exciting saga, especially during the Cold War years. For LeSchack’s complete Cold War story, find, “He Heard a Different Drummer” volumes I and II, on Amazon.com. The 1996 book “Project COLDFEET: Secret Mission to a Soviet Ice Station” that he coauthored is also available on Amazon.com.
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H E A LT H C A R E
BGH’s future bright as health services grow By Beth Hawkins
T
his summer’s opening of the new Bonner General Health Medical Office Building – between Third and Fourth avenues at Alder in downtown Sandpoint – represents more than a growing community’s need for more services and space; it illustrates a nationwide trend in the health care industry as demand rises for outpatient services and decreases for inpatient care. Luckily for all of us who live in this relatively small community, Bonner General Health aims to stay in front of the curve. The new 40,000-square-foot building is designed to better facilitate BGH’s outpatient services, including rehabilitation, an anticoagulation clinic, women’s health, a wound care clinic, blood draw services, plus physicians’ offices and much more. “Everybody’s really excited about the new building, and it’s really going to help with our outpatient services,” said Sheryl Rickard, CEO of Bonner General Health. “It’s going to be a lot more convenient and offer lots more parking.” Visitors, patients and staff will likely appreciate all of the little things that the building offers, as well: a covered drive-through where patients can conveniently be dropped off and picked up; well-lit facilities that usher in greater efficiency among staff; even the ability for patients to receive on-site aqua therapy in a rehabilitative pool without having to travel across town. “Bonner General Health is providing exceptional care,” said Terri
Fortner, director of Community Development and the BGH Foundation. “There are still some things where you need to go to a larger facility, but we can now offer things like an anticoagulation clinic, a wound care clinic. We have created some programs in response to community need. It’s done here, and it’s done well.” Rickard added: “Our rehab services have been significantly growing; we are doing therapies that we’ve never been able to do before.” Fortner emphasizes the point that having good medical care close to home is beneficial for everyone. “There is something to be said about being in your community,” she said. “It greatly SUMMER 2015
reduces stress on a family not having to travel.” The original hospital building on Third Avenue is now on the administration’s radar for upgrades and improvements. For some time, Bonner General Health officials were at a crossroads about which direction to go with the aging facility. “About four or five years ago, we recognized that we needed to do something with this building,” said Rickard. “It was built in 1973 when inpatient services were about 80 percent of our business; it was built as an inpatient facility. Now we’re sitting at 75 percent outpatient.” Studies on the building’s infrastructure were initiated to assess the costs and improve-
Pictured in April during construction of the skywalk connecting to the new hospital building is the BGH leadership team, from left: CEO Sheryl Rickard, Director of Human Resources Brad Waterbury, Chief Nursing Officer Linda Rammler, Director of Facilities Jeff Bales and CFO John Hennessy. PHOTO BY BETH HAWKINS
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Q&A with BGH Rehabilitative Director Michelle Tucker
T
he new Bonner General Health Medical Office Building opening this summer will house all of BGH’s rehabilitative services – including new equipment, new waiting areas and more – under the name Performance Therapy Services. We spoke with Rehabilitation Director Michelle Tucker about the upcoming move and what it means to rehabilitation patients, staff and the community. How will the new facility improve Bonner General Health’s rehabilitation services? There are a lot of different aspects, one of which is ease of access to our services. Right now, patients have to park outside our outpatient registration area, and we have a tiny waiting room.
The new building will offer a questions. They are asking more quesmore professional environtions about the new programs and what ment for our patients; we’ll new equipment is going to be in the new have a nice, big waiting area building. There is a lot of excitement out with a TV, and it will be more there about how we are advancing. aesthetically pleasing and What is the response from staff? modern. The staff are thrilled – they’re eager Along with that, it’s given to use the new equipment. The new us an opportunity to grow environment will provide better, more and improve our rehabilitaefficient service. Looking at our new tive services. It’s brought programs, there will be further opportualong with it new programs, nities for skill development. We do more including a balance/fall prevention Changing daily,you thewould expansion towardcenhere than seerushes in a larger program, a wheelchair seating program, opening day as sometime in Junefrom an outpater such in Spokane; and more. It’s giving us the opportunity to tient rehabilitation perspective, we offer grow the programs. This has allowed us to more than what you’d see in other small refine our programs, so they are now not hospitals. It’s given us this opportunity just a service. The quality that you receive to tell people what we do. is more standardized, more systematic. It’s going to be overall quality service. What is your favorite feature about the new building? What is the response from patients? The AquaFit. It’s a big enclosure, and a Are they excited about the change? patient will get in there with therapeutic People are excited and asking a lot of
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ments involved; this was done prior to the planning of the new Medical Office Building, when Bonner General Health officials were trying to decide which path to take. “We were looking at all those systems that were beginning to break, elevators and HVAC systems. Did it make sense to stay where we are, and sink money into this building, or to build a new hospital at a new location?” Rickard said. Along with the infrastructure studies, BGH also talked to the physicians, staff and managers as well as commu-
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H E A LT H C A R E
radiology department; it’s spread all over the first floor. It’s really confusing to our patients.” Once those are completed, Rickard said the third priority is the second floor of the hospital: “We’d like to do some remodeling and move some things around, plus improve some efficiencies.” At the moment, there is no firm schedule to get that going right New equipment will provide aquatic therapy
water. It’s a great piece of equipment for orthopedics, knee injuries, any time you can’t do the weight-bearing activities. It’s a great device, and the fact that it’s new and in our new facility is exciting. Our current aqua therapy is at an assisted living facility. We will be able to do more with sports injuries, so I’m really hoping that we will see more of the athletic patients as a result. nity leaders. “Everyone wanted us to stay in downtown Sandpoint,” she said. “In order to do that, we knew we had to make changes to this building. About that time, the Taylor and Parker property came up for sale.” A list of improvements is on tap for the original building. “The first thing that we need to address, after we get everything moved out, is our emergency room,” said Rickard. “We just need to fix the workflow issues and really expand. Our ER is really busy. Second priority is to consolidate the
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away, but it’s something BGH will be looking at in the future. For now, BGH’s staff members are thrilled with the new medical space and the services it will be able to provide. “It really is going to be a beautiful environment for care,” said Fortner. “We have the very best staff in the region, and it’s great to be able to elevate that aesthetic element.”
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T h e h e a r t to C a r e .
We're Starting a New Chapter in Health Care When we swing open the doors to the beautiful new Medical Office Building this summer, it represents more than a major expansion of Bonner General Health’s facilities. It also represents our commitment to the expansion of high-quality health care services for our community. The new Medical Office Building adds 40,000 square feet to Bonner General Health’s growing medical campus in downtown Sandpoint. As we shift some services from our existing building into the new building, we look forward to renovating our original building as well. The new facility will be the most apparent sign of our growth, but what is happening inside is the real story. BGH remains our town’s hospital for urgent and critical care. But the scope of our services is expanding as we strive to provide comprehensive care to meet the community’s health needs. Watch for our grand opening this summer. We’re excited to share what our expansion means as we continue to provide quality, compassionate care – right here in our wonderful hometown.
T h e s k i l l to H e a l .
Coming to BGH’s New Medical Office Building Sandpoint Women’s Health. Our new location nearly doubles our current capacity for high-quality, personalized obstetric, reproductive and gynecological services. Serving women from adolescence to menopause and beyond. Services also include surgeries and procedures ranging from colposcopy to dilation and curettage, to hysterectomy and many more. Performance Therapy Services. The expanded facility allows us to bring our aquatic therapy services in-house. Our highly trained staff provide therapy for pre- and post-surgical rehabilitation, sport injuries, spine and shoulder rehabilitation, orthopedics and musculoskeletal conditions, foot, ankle and hand rehabilitation, balance conditions and more.
Anticoagulation Clinic. We provide safe and effective management for anticoagulation therapy, with staff pharmacists who manage medications to prevent blood clots. Offering testing, monitoring, dosage adjustments, patient education and more. Women’s Imaging Services. Our expanded office allows us to provide screening services clustered in a central location. Services include bone densitometry (DEXA), breast ultrasound, digital mammography tomosynthesis (3D imaging) and others. Wound Care Clinic. Hard-to-heal wounds can have a wide range of causes. Our health care professionals provide advanced treatments to promote healing plus patient education in healing and prevention.
It’s just another way Bonner General Health nurtures quality of life and helps you heal close to home.
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PHOTOGRAPHY
Inquiring mind
Story by Carrie Scozzaro
Photographer Alan Barber approaches projects like an engineer
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Alan Barber shows a Mayan subject her portrait on his camera while in Palenque, Mexico. PHOTO BY JIM CLINE
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hen he was a young man, Alan Barber borrowed his father’s plane, a 1947 Aeronca Chief, and flew toward Barrow from his parents’ house in Fairbanks, Alaska. He was 19, home for the summer from University of Washington where he was earning an electrical engineering degree. On his solo flight, Barber also brought along his father’s camera, not to document anything, he says, but just to explore. Fueled by curiosity, intelligence and an evolving meticulousness of mind, Barber’s lifetime pursuing knowledge for the sheer sake of it was set in motion. When he landed some 250 SUMMER 2015
miles northwest of Fairbanks in Anaktuvuk – from the Inupiaq word roughly meaning “the place of caribou droppings” – Barber was struck with the Stone Age-like quality of the village. The year was 1966, less than two decades since a handful of formerly nomadic Nunamuit families returned to the area and settled amongst the tundra. Windswept, sparsely populated, framed against the Brooks Range, the village was little more than a collection of sod houses, Quonset huts, and a makeshift landing strip with a welcome sign, onto which was mounted caribou antlers. “That was my first touch of gritty third world,” said Barber, 68.
PHOTOGRAPHY
Documenting his world In the years that followed, Barber continued to explore both the tangible and intangible. He earned a master’s degree in electrical engineering from Stanford University in 1970 and worked for Hewlett-Packard Company until around 2001. He continued to travel, for both work and pleasure, and in those early years, he often took photographs. In East Africa in 1973, a colorful, beaded headdress of a Maasai girl caught his eye. A year later in Nepal, during a five-week trek to his mountain climbing destination, he fell in love with the villages that were certainly primitive by American standards. One of the most striking images from this trip was a wizened man whose history is delineated in his face, a turquoise and coral-colored earring the only splash of color. Eventually, though, Barber put the camera down, just focus-
ing on the experience and on work. A 1982 technical article he wrote in Hewlett-Packard Journal, “Synthesizer Accuracy for Unsynthesized Microwave Sources,” depicts the bespectacled, bearded, dark-haired author gazing thoughtfully into the camera. “I’m a very shy person,” he said. “I find it very hard to walk up to a stranger, but I find it a lot easier with a camera.” Time went by. After a fulfilling career of travel and work, retirement loomed, and Barber’s project list shifted. His parents, Vern and Gerry, had moved to Sagle, near Sandpoint, and it got Barber thinking deeply about ancestry. The former home of his grandparents, Vic and Elmah Barber, in downtown Sandpoint became available; they had owned it from 1943-’47 before moving to Alaska. Alan and wife Heather Hellier saw an opportunity, purchased it, and began renovating the house, which they would eventually run for nine years SUMMER 2015
as the Church Street House B&B. Characteristically, Barber poured himself into the project. He sought out former owners, visitors and relatives who might know the history dating back to its construction in 1915. He taught himself to do plasterwork and had vintage tools made in order to restore the home with authenticity. A history buff, Barber continued researching his family’s history, which is chronicled on one of his many websites (www.barberhome. com). Barber called his early writing “scratchings,” and contributed several to the Bonner County Historical Society. His opus was the 2012 publication of “David Kokernot: Rogue Soldier of the Texas Revolution,” that James C. Kearney in an online excerpt from the Southern Historical Quarterly describes as “meticulously researched, thoroughly documented, and well written.” It also earned Barber a Jacobus award from the American Society of
Opposite: Alan Barber’s first “gritty third-world” experience was meeting natives in the village of Anaktuvuk, Alaska, in 1966. Above: Barber traveled to the Mexican state of Chiapas in 2013, where he documented Mayan family life
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Pa’O woman in Myanmar, 2014
Tibetan trader in Nepal, 1974
Young monk in Myanmar, 2014
Genealogists and a Silver Benjamin Franklin award from the Independent Book Publishers Association. “Anything worth doing,” said Barber, “is worth overdoing,” a saying he attributes to a cousin.
says only a few dozen are worthwhile. “Part of the appeal of photography is ... I’m a very left-brained kind of guy and photography needs a lot of that. But photography also demands a lot of right-brained stuff: composition and creativity and those sorts of things.” He purchased a Canon EOS 6D digital SLR camera with a 24-105mm lens for low-light capabilities. Since he also has several telephoto lenses, Barber found that renting an additional camera body on his travels enables him to quickly shift from a wider angle to a more intimate shooting mode.
Revisiting the past That philosophy applies to photography, too, which Barber resumed in earnest a few years ago, studying it intently and unflinchingly. When he visited Myanmar in 2014, for example, he figured he took about 10,000 images but 46
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Maasai girl in East Africa, 1973
Although he willingly seeks out criticism and has perused online forums, he has found his niche with photography expeditions: small-group excursions of like-minded travelers guided by one or more expert photographers, plus any number of other facilitators. His most recent trip, in January, was to Cuba via People to People cultural exchanges, one of a handful of ways Americans may visit there since travel restrictions were lifted early this year. In addition to five professional photographers – one American, four Cuban – there were 15 amateurs, including
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Afro-Cuban dance troupe post-performance. Inset: Cuban National Ballet exercise, Havana, 2015
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Old man and Buick in Cuba, 2015
Barber. The trip also included two “fixers,” whose job it is to navigate such things as currency, translation and creating opportunities for photos. For example, they visited a dance studio, young circus performers-in-training and a boxing match. Although he found the Cuban capital in disrepair – another version of the “gritty third-world” experience he had in Anaktuvuk – Barber could also appreciate the poetry of Havana’s decay. “The city’s like a crone who’s lived a dissolute life but clearly was a raging beauty in her youth,” said Barber of Havana. “I would love to have visited
Monastery students and temple in Myanmar, 2014
when Hemingway lived there.” In addition to wanting to escape Sandpoint’s winter, Barber’s reasons for visiting Cuba harkens to his quest for knowledge. “I am pleased that I visited the island before the appearance of the first Starbucks,” writes Barber on his photoblog (www.alans.pics), which also features images from other trips: the Lake Havasu Balloon Festival, Myanmar, Auschwitz, and the Mayan area of Chiapas, Mexico. Back in 2000, 34 years after he had borrowed his father’s airplane for that fateful trip to Anaktuvuk, he and Hellier
SUMMER 2015
Barber and the derelict Aeronca, Talkeetna, Alaska
tracked down the Aeronca Chief. It was in Talkeetna, Alaska – beyond flyable. He even took photos of it, as if to document the evidence, and Hellier snapped a portrait of him with the plane. “It wasn’t the same,” he said. 2015 will find Barber on photo trips in Cambodia and Oaxaca, Mexico, followed by Venice, Italy, in 2016. Although Barber typically doesn’t sell or display his photographs, he will be participating in Pend Oreille Arts Council’s ArtWalk this summer, as well as a fall show entitled “Around the World.” See POAC’s website for more details: www.artin sandpoint.org.
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WILDLIFE
Wildlife rescue groups walk on the wild side By Jennifer Sudick
T
he first call came within 24 hours. The second, less than a day later. Dory McIsaac, newly arrived from Pocatello, Idaho, in July 2010, was still unloading trailers and setting up enclosures for the animal rescue operations of Mystic Farm Wildlife Rescue on her 20 acres in Sagle when two young deer were brought into her care. They were among eight deer and elk she would rehabilitate that summer; she saw nearly twice as many last season. “It’s just gone crazy up here,” McIsaac said. “Last summer, if 10 minutes would go by and my phone wouldn’t ring, my intern would say that’s a record because I get calls constantly.” Mystic Farm (www.mysticfarm.com) is among an estimated half-dozen organizations licensed by Idaho Fish and Game (IFG) to rescue, rehabilitate and release animals in northern Idaho. Craig Walker, IFG regional conservation officer, said it is also one of the three most publicly and consistently active in the area, including American Heritage Wildlife Foundation (www.ahwf. org) in Clark Fork, and Birds of Prey Northwest (www.birdsofprey northwest.org) in St. Maries. The National Wildlife Rehabilitators Association estimates there are fewer than 5,000 licensed wildlife rehabilitators in the United States. They care for animals and much more: run board meetings, create educational programs, handle fundraising and marketing campaigns, keep records and submit annual reports. Mystic Farm, American Heritage and Birds of Prey Northwest are 501(c)(3) nonprofit
organizations, supported entirely by grants, donations, personal funds and volunteer labor. McIsaac and a trained intern – the only people allowed to interact with the fawns at Mystic Farm, which does not allow visitors – work around the clock during the summer, “wiping fawn butts, putting up fence, we do everything.” Her busiest season is from June, when the majority of fawns are born, through October, when she releases the deer as adults. “She is working consistently, 24/7, 365 days a year,” said Kathleen Bradley, who found an injured fawn on the side of Dufort Road just one week after moving to the Sandpoint area from Pennsylvania in 2012. She put the animal in the back of her Suburban and drove it to a veterinary clinic, which called McIsaac. “I didn’t know what to do – it was laying there panting. The mama was long gone,” said Bradley, who is now a Mystic Farm SUMMER 2015
board member. “When Dory came to pick up the deer, she discussed with me that it is usually best not to approach a fawn. In this case, I was able to remove it from the roadway where it was in danger of being hit by oncoming traffic.” McIsaac founded the “Do Not Touch!” program to encourage people to stay away from wildlife that appears to be injured or abandoned and call a licensed professional. She visits schools to educate students about the dangers of approaching wildlife – principal among them is “imprinting,” or bonding, with humans. “Moose and elk imprint on humans quickly,” said Walker, who like McIsaac, has seen numerous cases of wildlife raised as domestic animals. “When there is something of an adult size – 500 to 700 pounds – that is not afraid of humans, you have a dangerous problem.” Kathleen St. Clair-McGee, founder of American Heritage, has strict procedures to pre-
Raptor biologist Janie Veltkamp of Birds of Prey Northwest with a bald eagle rescued in Sandpoint that sustained severe abrasions to its wings, possibly during an in-flight collision. It was successfully released in 2014 after one week in rehabilitation. COURTESY BIRDS OF PREY NORTHWEST FOUNDATION
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WILDLIFE
Above: Kathleen St. Clair-McGee, founder of American Heritage Wildlife Foundation, with a rock dove rescued this winter along the Sand Creek Trail after sustaining trauma to its wing. PHOTO BY JENNIFER SUDICK
Right: Dory McIsaac, founder of Mystic Farm Wildlife Rescue, with a fawn learning how to take a bottle. COURTESY MYSTIC FARM WILDLIFE RESCUE
vent imprinting, including a specially designed area for raccoons that can be sectioned off for cleaning and feeding. Some things, such as the size of animal enclosures, have nationally recognized guidelines; others, like minor wildlife wound care, are self-taught. “There is never direct contact, so that upon release they are going, ‘Ew, yuck, human,’ and that is exactly what you want to happen,” she said. St. ClairMcGee works with up to 75 animals a year, primarily from April through August, on her 2-acre property just a few miles from the Montana border, ranging from songbirds, ducks and seagulls to raccoons, squirrels, skunks and coyotes. She receives more than 250 calls a year for assistance. “They are not the more charismatic animals,” she said, “but if you look at it as a pyramid, and you have a weak base, everything is affected.” Previously a zookeeper at the Dallas Zoo and a wildlife care specialist at the Western North Carolina Nature Center, St. Clair-McGee founded American 52
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Heritage 14 years ago to promote the preservation of native wildlife through rehabilitation and community education. She secured grants to offer a summer camp for fifth- and sixth-graders; holds monthly wildlife seminars for the public; and created illustrated children’s books sold locally to raise funds. Ultimately, she would like to create the first public nature center in the area. “Fish and Game is looking at the broad picture, and simply doesn’t have the resources to do this type of work,” St. Clair-McGee said. “They are there to provide wildlife protection, management and control. They regulate the laws regarding hunting, fishing and trapping. The rehab community is able to fit in between the large wildlife management aspect and the single animal found by the citizen with the big heart.” Walker said that while IFG recognizes the social side of wildlife rehabilitation, it is of little value biologically. Few of the species that end up in area rehabilitation facilities, he said, are endangered or threatened. SUMMER 2015
“Animals in the wild should be left be,” he said. “Rarely are there occasions when you should be doing something.” McIsaac, who observed wildlife rehabilitation experts in Alaska prior to starting animal rehabilitation work in southern Idaho with two baby moose in 2007, has helped shape the way moose and elk are handled in the state. After focusing on the rehabilitation of deer exclusively, she compiled a comprehensive database of facilities such as zoos, sanctuaries and nature centers interested in caring for moose and elk, providing it as a resource for IFG. “I’m always thinking the deer. Always, always, always,” said McIsaac, who drives a white Toyota Tundra with the words “Don’t be a Fawn-Napper” emblazoned on each side. Mystic Farm won the truck after a landslide public vote in a national 2012 Toyota giveaway for nonprofits. Janie Veltkamp founded Birds of Prey Northwest in 1993 to promote the stewardship and conservation of raptors: eagles, falcons, hawks, ospreys
WILDLIFE and owls. A nationally renowned raptor biologist and master falconer with 25 years of experience in the field, she is sought out for projects including the reintroduction of ospreys in South Dakota, as well as working with South Dakota Game, Fish & Parks to establish peregrine falcon nesting sites in the inner-city high rises of Rapid City. “We learned from the DDT era that when we pollute the environment, it shows up first in our birds of prey,” she said. “They sit at the top of the food chain. It behooves us to take care of these birds of prey. We share the world with them.” Veltkamp, who also serves as a consulting biologist for the Sandpoint osprey cam project at Memorial Field, receives 100 to 150 injured birds of prey annually from as far away as Alaska to rehabilitate on her 15-acre property. Groups pay up to $500 for a presentation featuring several species of raptors, including the bald eagle Liberty, 25 years old, and a red-tailed hawk named Briar, 22 years old; in turn, that helps Veltkamp with expenses such as fuel, veterinary care, special aviary netting and a raptor food bill of $50,000 a year. “Give me an hour with fifth-graders, and they will grow up to conserve raptors and their habitat,” said Veltkamp, who noted that while she realizes the limited biological value of rehabilitation, the greatest impact she can have is on education. “They will know it is wrong to shoot a hawk or an eagle.” While similar area facilities have struggled to stay open – an animal rehabilitation clinic recently closed in Lewiston, and another in Spokane – Mystic Farm, American Heritage and Birds of Prey Northwest are working to improve operations and accommodate demand. St. Clair-McGee secured grant funding to construct a five-section aviary slated to open this year; McIsaac is moving to a more remote property in the Sagle area better suited for deer rehabilitation and release; and Veltkamp is helping organize the first Meals on Reels Fishing Derby fundraiser for Birds of Prey Northwest on Lake Pend Oreille June 20-28.
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“You get to be creative,” St. ClairMcGee said. She recently rehabilitated a seagull with a broken leg set by a veterinary clinic, and didn’t want the bird’s breast muscles to atrophy while it healed. “The cast was heavy, so I created this sling, which held the body up and had space for the wings and legs to go out. I hung it on the tree limb, and he would just fly and flap.” Veltkamp received national attention in 2008 after working with a team of engineers and wildlife experts to create a prosthetic upper beak for Beauty the bald eagle, who was unable to eat after being shot in the face by a poacher in Alaska. The prosthesis allowed the eagle, who is now permanently in Veltkamp’s care, to preen its feathers and drink water until some new beak growth came in naturally. At a recent National Wildlife Rehabilitators Association symposium, St. Clair-McGee said the most widely recognized average rehabilitation success rate was around 35 percent. Mystic Farm, American Heritage and Birds of Prey Northwest are consistently well above that benchmark. “By providing the right tools – it is always up to the animal – the animal can figure it out,” St. Clair-McGee said. “It would be like a parent. You hope you have given them enough of whatever they need to survive in the wild. It’s where they need to be; it’s where they are supposed to be.”
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Fox squirrel at American Heritage Wildlife Foundation. It was successfully released after two months. COURTESY AMERICAN HERITAGE WILDLIFE FOUNDATION
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ART
Open-air museum
Story by Charles Mortensen Photos by Doug Marshall
Mark Kubiak sculpts Sherwood Forest
M
ark Kubiak emerges from the edge of the forest with pruning tools in hand. He’s been busy thinning out a stand of pine and fir saplings that are growing too close together. “Busy work,” he says. It is a bright February morning just west of Sandpoint, more spring-like than it ought to be. The snow has completely disappeared from the spot where we stand, as well as from the forested knob of land to our east, known as Syringa Heights. Near us is a small vineyard that Kubiak, 63, planted on the lower slope that gives way westward to an open field. All this land, the field, the vineyard, and the forested knob, make up a piece of property – some 140 acres – that Mark owns together with his wife Susie. Many local residents are familiar with the trail network that drapes the beautiful Syringa Heights. It is a favorite of mountain bikers and hikers that gets
more wonderful as time goes by. The ever-increasing wonder is no accident and is made possible by the Kubiaks’ generosity and responsible land management, preserving a gem of nature that otherwise might have fallen to the ever-churning gears of real estate development. The Kubiaks have owned the property since 2001 when it was purchased from the Sherwood estate. Their aim was to manage the land in its natural state while encouraging responsible recreational use. In 2013 they formally instituted this stewardship through a conservation easement administered by Kaniksu Land Trust. The easement preserves the natural state of the property while allowing forest management and non-motorized recreation. Recreational use is facilitated through a partnership with the Pend Oreille Pedalers, the local bike club, to expand and maintain the network of trails known collectively as Sherwood Forest – named SUMMER 2015
in honor of the previous owner, but perhaps more appropriately for the Robin Hood-esque sensibility that has made this gem what it is. Over the past few years, Kubiak, a gifted sculptor, has been slowly and stealthily transforming the beautiful Sherwood Forest into an open-air museum of sorts. Museum, perhaps, is not the best
Above: Mark Kubiak sculpts in his home studio. Inset: “The Leg,” one of many installments amidst the network of trails at Syringa Heights
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ART way to think of it because the art is not showcased but rather embedded, complementing the beauty and spirit of the forest. First, and without warning, appeared an elegant piece carved from cherry wood that depicts the lower body of a one-legged nude balancing on her remaining leg. That somewhat clinical description may sound gruesome, but the balance and grace of this piece is truly a thing of beauty. This work, as most others that Kubiak has snuck into the forest, is easily missed by the unsuspecting passerby, particularly if the mode of transport is a bicycle, which requires a certain level of eye focus on the path forward. “The Leg” opens one’s eyes, though, and gradually trail users can spy several more of Kubiak’s pieces farther up the trail. A nude carved from birch was later clad in a patchwork
“Van Gogh,” left, and a birch-and-copper nude stand off the beaten track in Sherwood Forest. Right: Kubiak and trees he painted for an illusory effect
of small copper sheets before the artist hauled it into position in an even more obscure nook of the forest than where “The Leg” stands. Incidentally, all these pieces, some of which carry significant heft, were hauled in manually by Kubiak
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ART under what must have been an impressive effort of athletic artistry over roadless terrain that struggles to find any flat or smooth surfaces. Near the birch and copper nude stands a bust of sorts carved from English walnut. It is an abstract piece of curving and swirling lines. Kubiak thinks of the abstract endeavor almost as a sort of “busy work” – a way to keep himself occupied and tuned to his craft. Farther down the trail a painted clay bust of Vincent Van Gogh, sans ear, peers from near the trail’s edge with a gaze that seems to remind onlookers to stay true to themselves.
Kubiak is a big admirer of Van Gogh’s work harkening back to his visit to the Museum of Modern Art in New York years ago where he saw some of his actual paintings for the first time and was struck by the power of the art. Crossing over to the western portion of the forest, the trail eventually follows a meandering path back down the slope where Kubiak has installed several more pieces. “Cloud Forms,” a piece carved from birch, nestled in a mossy granite outcrop, is a facial carving that melds into a billowing mane of clouds. Farther down the trail sits a whimsical clay bust of Sam Wormington, the almost legendary local personality who was Schweitzer Mountain Resort’s first manager in the 1960s and 1970s. Shortly after Sam, in a departure from sculpture that seems to complete the image, the trail is flanked by a
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Pristine Heights TH
Pine St.
Parking here
No parking No parking Ravenwood Ln.
Greta’s Segway 1.25 mi
Ravenwood Dr.
Trail Map for Sherwood Forest, where Mark Kubiak’s forest art can be found
No parking Gas pipeline
Sherwood Forest trail 1.4 mi Bier Bridge trail 1.2 mi
Fenceline trail
Cedar Ridge
bridge
Rock Steps Pipeline trail .8 mi
Not part of Sherwood Forest
Private drive
Heart Rate Hill Cardiac Bypass Dover Overlook
Private drive
2 2
Dover
2
Dogs must be leashed
group of pine trees, the trunks of which have been painted Schweitzer chairlift tower blue. The trees were inspired by a painted art installment Kubiak once saw in Seattle that evoked an array of neon lights; the trees have a similar
Your
illusory effect that fiddles with depth perception and dimension. Back at the edge of the forest, Kubiak talks of the future. He planted the vineyard with Maréchal Foch, a cold-hardy variety of French red wine grapes named after the famous World War I French marshal. The plot has more room, and perhaps someday he may plant more. For the time being, the vineyard has been yielding moderate quantities of wine, and Kubiak has plenty of other “busy work” to keep him occupied. As for the forest art, he envisions the installment of organic art pieces created in situ using available materials, perhaps in the vein of noted outdoor artist Andy Goldsworthy. With the exception of a showing of his work in 2000 and exhibits at his former Redtail Gallery in Sandpoint, Kubiak has mostly shied away from gallery showings. The effort of schlepping
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his work around the country, much of which is carved from stone and measured in tons, seems like an onerous undertaking. Thankfully, it hasn’t yet occurred to him that hauling sculpture into place on foot through a hilly forest might also be somewhat arduous. Gallery shows, or not, Kubiak is prolific. Many of his works are displayed publicly and privately throughout the Northwest. He is currently working on a piece that will later be cast in bronze. A large piece, “The Fat Man with a Screw On,” stands ominously in a corner of Kubiak’s studio. It is a social commentary on what results in communities all too often when resources are misapplied. A visit to the Sherwood Forest trails reminds us that it isn’t always that way. This land, set aside for nature and recreation through the Kubiaks’ generosity, demonstrates what is possible. Mark’s artistic vision completes the picture and the community reaps the benefits.
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HISTORY
‘More beautiful than Switzerland’ The diary of Priest Lake tourists from 1887
By Kris Runberg Smith PHOTOGRAPHS BY C.W. HOAGLAND AND DRAWINGS BY WAKEMAN HOLBERTON, BEINECKE RARE BOOK AND MANUSCRIPT LIBRARY, YALE UNIVERSITY
N
ew York artist and angler Wakeman Holberton alighted from his private railcar in high spirits at the Sandpoint siding in late August 1887. He and his nine traveling companions costumed themselves in “the garb of woodsmen,” including the group’s organizer who wore a fringed buckskin suit concocted for the occasion by a New York tailor. Each man paid a thousand dollars, $24,000 in today’s currency, for a Far West adventure of hunting, fishing and hiking “where no white man has every trodden.” Holberton kept a diary of their three-week trip and later created 15 handmade editions for all the members. He artistically wrote out each volume on Irish linen paper, added his illustrations along with
the photographs taken by C.W. Hoagland, and then had them bound in red Morocco leather to celcel ebrate their adventures. This charming book illustrated the joys and frustrations of these piopio neering tourists to the Idaho panhandle. Holberton socialized with a group of wealthy sportsmen from Brooklyn who decided to organize an expedition in the West before it became too civilized. A chance meeting with Lt. William Abercrombie, in New York to marry his commander’s daughter, convinced them to trek to northern Idaho. The year before, Abercrombie had been stationed at Fort Coeur d’Alene when gold miners in the Kettle Falls area demanded the protection of federal troops. Fort commanders suspected the miners wanted the troops to intimidate the peaceful SUMMER 2015
This 1887 photograph captured the first view of Sandpoint by a New York hunting party headed to Priest Lake for a Western adventure. “The Wander,” their private railcar owned by the Vanderbilt family, was moved onto a side track in front of the Northern Pacific depot.
Angler, artist and diary author Wakeman Holberton on Sherwood Beach at Priest Lake SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
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AH LM I SATNOARCY Kalispel Indians into giving up their land but they agreed to send a detachment. Rumors of Indian unrest spreading to Priest Lake prompted Abercrombie to volunteer to travel over the mountains
to investigate. He was known to always carry his fishing gear along with his rifle and often rode out ahead of the command to fish. At the isolated lake he found no conflicts with the Kalispel, so he spent the next month exploring the area he described as a sportsmen’s paradise. In New York, between the parties and receptions, Abercrombie entranced the wealthy gentlemen with tales of a The wealthy sportsmen came to northern Idaho seeking the “wildest and richest game country in the world,” but also hoped to observe native peoples. On their first day in Sandpoint, the men visited this encampment of the Kootenai near the railroad bridge and reported it held “a certain charm for the Easterner.” They were less impressed with fishing on Lake Pend Oreille and soon headed to Priest Lake.
Colville Indian agent and former army translator S.J. Sherwood outfitted the expedition. The New Yorkers brought so much superfluous luggage, including canned food for three months, that he needed to hire a Kalispel woman known as Mary and her five “Cayuses” ponies to help pack it all to Priest Lake.
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HISTORY the wide beach north of Soldier Creek, creating a “snow-white canvas village.” The men quickly stashed their supplies in a log and stone storehouse, cleaned off in the lake, and enjoyed a hot meal of venison prepared by their cook Kiffy and served by waiter Julius in the dining salon. The next morning Holberton took a boat up Soldier Creek. The Kalispel named it Fish Creek for its abundant “September 5th – We arose much refreshed this morning and more disposed to enjoy the fine cool air and magnificent scenery. Most of us had to go to work on our guns, as they were in terrible condition after their wet journey on the pack train. Some of us tried the trout and we brought in a fine lot of fish running from 1 to 2 1/2 pounds.” “September 2nd – At last we have a fine day. As soon as our horses are saddled and the Doctor takes our picture, we push on [from Sand Point], leaving the pack train to follow us. We ride towards the Pend d ’Oreille River.”
remote lake filled with fat black trout, herds of caribou, roaming grizzly bears, and mountains “more beautiful than Switzerland.” The men eagerly signed up for a Wild West adventure in late summer 1887. Guide S.P. Sherwood, an army buddy of Abercrombie, met the wealthy New Yorkers in Sandpoint. A stampede of Sherwood’s horses and days of rain slowed the expedition down. The men started their 50-mile ride late on Friday, Sept. 2 and spent the first night camping near Seneacquoteen. The next morning they headed toward Priest Lake “up hills so steep we could hardly keep on our horses.” The overloaded horses and rain forced the group to unexpectedly spend a night along the east fork of the Priest River with no camping gear and only damp bread and bacon to eat since the men were too tired and wet to hunt. Their mood lightened the next morning when they rode out on the beach at Coolin Bay and took in the vista of a pristine lake with no signs of civilization. They eagerly traded their horses for canvas boats as Kalispel guides paddled them up the lake a couple of miles. Sherwood pitched their tents on SUMMER 2015
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HISTORY
stock, but the name changed on the maps after Abercrombie’s men camped there the summer before. Holberton eagerly tried to catch the large black spotted trout with his custom flies. Earlier that year, he published “The Art of Angling: How and Where to Catch Fish,” making him one of the most noted anglers of the day. His book covered fishing along the East Coast and Canada, but now he could become an expert on Western lakes as well. “The black trout are very beautiful to look at, hard fighters and excellent eating.
Cook Kiffy and waiter Julius in front of the kitchen and dining “salon”
“September 8th – Pleasant are the evenings we pass around our big campfire. Messrs Boocock and Masters generally bring out their banjos and give us some good music, this always attracts the Indians and guides.” 62
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Notwithstanding the fact that they had not been fished before for they were very shy and when hooked seemed crazy with fear and rage.” Holberton would write about the Priest Lake trout for the rest of his life, and in 1895 the Smithsonian commissioned him to paint a portrait of it. All the men marveled at their skills of fly fishing, especially in the evenings. Several of the anglers preferred fishing at the Outlet where they became enamored by the Dolly Varden trout. Others found success fly fishing around Four Mile Island, which they referred to as Randall Island. Holberton stuck to fishing, commenting one sunny Thursday: “A lovely day. We did little today except to enjoy the fishing.” However, most of his party preferred hunting and often set out with one of the five Kalispel guides. Army doctor Cyrus Merriam shot a buck on Outlet Mountain and brought the head and liver back to camp. He left the Kalispel to cut up the deer and pack it out, making several trips to get all the venison back to camp. Merriam joined Sherwood and several of the New Yorkers to hunt on the Upper Priest Lake, which they christened Lake Abercrombie. They tried unsuccessfully for four days to bag a caribou. During the three-week adventure, four different parties ventured to the little lake determined to bring back a caribou. The last party returned triumphantly to camp with improvised flags fluttering on their boats to celebrate their successful hunt. They had followed the herd “many weary miles over steep hills” before succeeding. The men and their guides SUMMER 2015
Dolly Varden
enjoyed the campfire at night with cigars and pipes. Two of the younger men brought their banjos and led the group in singing. During the last night, the Kalispel promised dancing but the performance was overshadowed by a white guide, Sutton, who broke into the storehouse and stole some liquor. He got angry
“September 18th – We worked hard today trying to prepare our buck heads so they would keep until we could reach a taxidermist. As we were not very expert we found it very trying work.”
“September 26th – At Sand Point we bid farewell. The place was full of Indians, Kalispel and Kortnay both; they were here for their winter supplies. There were a large number of Kortnay encamped near us and their tapping while playing Chelahlek kept us awake.”
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Sandpoint Business
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The perfect venue for weddings, receptions, banquets, seminars, music performances, theatre, business meetings and events.
Sandpoint Business
& Events Center
The perfect venue for weddings, receptions, banquets, seminars, music performances, theatre, business meetings and events. Plus a commercial kitchen
0 • S a n d p o i n t E v e n t s C e n t e r. 102 S. Euclid • 208.263.777 com
Sandpoint’s Premier Event Venue Seating for over 400 in unmatched elegance
YOUR DONATIONS HELP US BUILD AFFORDABLE HOMES! For more information call (208) 265-5313
1519 Baldy Park Rd. Sandpoint, ID 83864
when Sherwood locked up the supplies and opened fire on the party with his Winchester. Sherwood managed to disarm the guide before he harmed any of the sportsmen. The New York gentlemen found the realities of the Far West too strenuous for their liking in spite of Sherwood’s outfitting efforts. Judge Henry Gildersleeve, a “celebrated rifle shot,” appreciated the plentiful game but found the area too rugged to hunt with much enjoyment. He complained the timber seemed too thick to get off good shots and too dense to get the carcass through. He disliked the wide swings in temperature and resented ice on his wash basin in the morning. He concluded the trip to Priest Lake was “too rough an experience to afford much enjoyment.” Holberton thought the trip more enjoyable although, like the others, found the 50-mile horseback ride on Indian trails daunting. He aimed his resentment at the unexpected presence of prospectors who also caught wind of Abercrombie’s report. Besides extolling the “wildest and richest game country,” the lieutenant claimed the streams flowed with gold. Prospectors made liberal use of dynamite along the shoreline to find veins of minerals. The explosions shattered the sportsmen’s illusions of hunting in a virgin wilderness. Even more irritating, the reckless blasting sent game deeper into the forest and that explained their poor showing, they claimed. The New Yorkers never returned to northern Idaho, but Wakeman Holberton’s illustrated diary and contemporary newspaper coverage of the expedition provide a window into the pleasures and perils of early tourism to the Idaho panhandle. This story is included in the recent book from Washington State University Press titled “Wild Place: A History of Priest Lake, Idaho” by Kris Runberg Smith for the Priest Lake Museum.
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COMMUNITY
Bonners Ferry
Putting the vitality into revitalization By Jennifer Sudick
H
ardware stores and bars. That’s how Michael Naumann remembers downtown Bonners Ferry when he moved to the area nearly 40 years ago from central Washington. “Now it is changing,” said Naumann, who in 2011 opened Kootenai River Brewing Company & Restaurant adjacent to the Kootenai River downtown, renovating a building that formerly housed an automotive repair shop and antiques storage. “There are more nice places to eat, galleries, art – it’s a good thing for the community.” In 2001, the city launched a strategic plan to address five key planning elements, including the revitalization of the downtown area and riverwalk along the Kootenai River. Made up of fewer than 10 city blocks bordered by the Union Pacific and Burlington Northern Santa Fe railroads, U.S. Highway 95, and the Kootenai River – downtown Bonners Ferry now has new sidewalks, lighting, new parking areas and signage. A pedestrian tunnel was also created under the highway to provide safe and convenient access to and from the Kootenai River Inn Casino & Spa in 2005, and the International Gateway Visitor Center was completed near the downtown entrance to the tunnel two years later. The efforts have resulted in a wave of new businesses and reno-
vations in the area. “The community made a lot of investments in the downtown area, and business owners are seeing that it is a good place to do business,” said David Sims, director of the Boundary Economic Development Council (BEDC), which was founded in 2001. “It gave them the foundation to really want to invest in Bonners Ferry. Properties for sale have been selling pretty quickly.” Sims noted the success of shops like Under the Sun (gifts, home décor and café) that opened in the longtime Lindsay-Helmer Hardware Store location on Main Street in 2006, in addition to new businesses like Heart Rock Wines. Its wine-tasting room is opening this summer near the pedestrian tunnel under the guidance of Lillian Lonborg, who has run tasting rooms in the Seattle area for the past five years. “People from the casino, they want more, they want another destination,” she said. “We have people coming down from Canada just to have dinner in Bonners Ferry.” In June 2014, Abra Chouinard launched a major renovation of the 4,400-square-foot Rex Theater, drawing inspiration from the 1920s, when the theater – and many other downtown brick buildings used today – were built. Efforts at the Rex include the recovery of a stage SUMMER 2015
for live performances and the addition of a retractable screen and digital movie projector. Chouinard also added a cry room and tapas bar and recreated the main balcony into a 21-and-over area for dinner and drinks. The theater’s nearly 400 original seats are being refurbished, and a rare popcorn maker from 1948 is the centerpiece of the concession area. Chouinard said she is working with Sims and other business leaders to “elevate the brand of downtown,” drawing on the best cultural elements of cities such as Seattle, Portland, Ore., and Austin, Texas, and connecting businesses in a way that encourages visitors to stay, socialize and walk from place to place. She plans to convert the theater’s neighboring buildings into a high-end clothing store, a plug-and-play office space, and a film production studio. “We have a lot here to offer,” she said. “You have to make it a good, safe environment, and people will want to come.”
A renovated automotive repair shop now houses Kootenai River Brewing Company in downtown Bonners Ferry, where revitalization efforts are transforming it into a destination town. PHOTO BY BETH ACKER
Inset: The entrance to the Rex Theater, as it underwent renovations in March 2015, with new tiling on the outside. PHOTO BY JENNIFER SUDICK
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COMMUNITY Just a few blocks from downtown, The Pearl Theater opened in 2011, when Carolyn Testa transformed a church built in 1892 into a 157-seat performance space with cafe now run as the nonprofit 501(c)(3) organization The Pearl, Inc. The theater hosts about 20 events each year, including performers from around the country, according to Sue Wilson, board president. It recently hired its first paid employee. “We are still pretty small. We are hoping to get larger over time and expand into having more events,” Wilson said. “We like to get thoughts from the community on what they want to see and what they want to hear.” Nissa Henslee opened Picturesque in November 2014 after renovating the nearly 7,000-square-foot downtown building that formerly housed McCoy’s Home Interiors. The secondlevel space is home to a salon, yoga and dance space, photography studio, and artist studio. The street-level floor has been renovated to house 17 lockable stalls rented monthly to retailers, creating the BF Marketplace. “It is a great community that is really supportive of one another,” Henslee said. “The more that businesses can do to create jobs and help the economy thrive, the better it will get.” In a 2010 community review report created for the BEDC under the Idaho Community Review Program, which works to strengthen development strategies, the appearance of downtown Bonners Ferry received the highest level of satisfaction, at 83 percent, in a survey of Boundary County residents about major aspects of the city’s economic development. Among the
economic areas in need of the most improvement were the availability and quality of local jobs, in addition to vocational or workforce training programs. This year, the Boundary County Library downtown will open a digital technology center and multimedia studio that will include the state’s first Massachusetts Institute of Technology-affiliated Fab Lab, providing state-of-the-art digital fabrication and computation opportunities for students, businesses and the public. Funded in large part by grants from USDA Rural Development and the Idaho Gem Grant Program, the Fab Lab will provide access to equipment such as 3-D printers and milling machines. “The city has also looked at doing a phase two to its downtown revitalization project extending over to the west of Main Street,” Sims said. “There are a number of projects that we are looking at right now to make the area even more friendly for visitors and more of a destination.” Community events, such as Kootenai River Days and the Swish 3 on 3 Basketball Tournament, continue to draw visitors from across the region, Naumann said, as well as people “just wanting to do a drive” out of cities like Sandpoint, Libby, Spokane or Coeur d’Alene. That’s good news for Naumann, who employs up to 30 people and plans to double his current brewery production of 600 barrels per year. “We are on a big highway,” he said. “If we can pull people from off the highway to take a break and come in and walk around, that is great for Bonners Ferry.”
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PICTURED IN HISTORY
Edgemere Grange in Vay southwest of Sandpoint, circa 1945: the only log grange hall in Idaho and one of two active granges left in Bonner County. PHOTO BY CORA MERRITT/ COURTESY EDGEMERE GRANGE
By Jennifer Lamont Leo
The grange: a venerable institution
Q
uick, name the chief industries that built Sandpoint and its environs. If you’re like most people, timber and railroads spring readily to mind. Today we could add tourism. You might not have thought of farming, yet through most of the 20th century, farms blanketed the area. At one time there were more than 80 dairy farms in the county. Today there is one. Large-scale farms and their attendant institutions – the county fair, 4-H, the granges – have waned considerably from their robust, mid-20th-century numbers. The Bonner County History Museum recently unveiled a new exhibit, “From Forest to Field: Agriculture in Bonner County,” thanks in part to a grant from the Idaho Department of Transportation. “The grant paid for research, the collection of oral histories, and the cataloging of everything in our collection that relates to the agriculture exhibit,” said museum director Olivia Morlen. As museum staff and volunteers worked on the exhibit, the question came up, “What exactly is a grange?” The museum’s archives yielded a bushel of information. A grange (an archaic word for “farm,” related to “granary”) is a community service organization with special interest in agriculture-related issues. The grange movement was founded in 1867 in Washington, D.C., when seven men and one woman formed the National Grange
of the Order of Patrons of Husbandry. Today it is “a nonprofit, non-partisan, fraternal organization that advocates for rural America and agriculture,” according to its statement of purpose. Rural free mail delivery, the cooperative extension program and farm credit are typical National Grange-backed projects. The Idaho State Grange organized in 1908. Bonner County’s earliest grange, Freeman Lake, opened in 1919. Granges opened thick and fast during the hard times of the 1920s and 1930s: Selle, Edgemere, Westmond, Colburn, Elmira, Kootenai, Laclede, Pend Oreille, Sunny Glen, Pack River, Glengary, Hope and Clark Fork. In all, the county boasted 19 granges, with new ones forming as late as the 1960s. The last – Snow Valley – opened in 1965. For decades, granges labored to improve farm-related education, economic development and legislation. In 1935 they were instrumental in bringing electricity to local farms through the Rural Electrification Program. Selle Grange started the CENEX Co-Op Gas & Supply in Sandpoint. During World War II, granges participated in war bond drives, scrap iron drives and Red Cross training. They issued scholarships and performed countless acts of service to the community, from building projects to hosting baby showers. The granges were also hubs of local social life, thanks in large part to the SUMMER 2015
grange halls – simple, roomy structures that functioned as community gathering places. Occasionally they filled in as temporary schoolhouses or churches. However, from the late 1960s on, interest in both farming and in joining fraternal organizations waned. As granges have closed, some have been torn down and others put to new uses. Today only two Bonner County granges remain active: Blanchard and Edgemere, still buzzing with activity. “We hold many events, from community harvest dinners to educational programs,” said Edgemere Grangemaster Lavelle Turner, a member for 40-plus years. With more than 50 members, Edgemere performs community service projects and maintains the 1945 grange hall. “To my knowledge, it is the only log (grange) building in the state,” Turner said. “It’s used by the grange and other groups, such as the HooDoo Hoedowners square-dancers, and families can rent it for weddings and parties.” The 7-acre property also has a horse arena. Local agriculture is seeing a burgeoning number of small-scale growers, community-supported agriculture (CSA) farms, goat farmers and the like. With its strong history in grassroots activism, community service and pulling together in the interests of agriculture, the grange movement may see a resurgence yet. SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
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Sunsets
Five hikes to catch the sun going down
Story and photos by Aaron Theisen
B
oasting large, largely undeveloped lakes cradled by three mountain ranges, northern Idaho has no shortage of beach-chair or boat deck sunset spots. As anyone who has slept under the stars in the backcountry knows, ontrail sunsets are even better, a secret shared between hiker and Mother Nature – and made all the more sweet by the effort. Below are five sunset hikes worth the sweat. Bring a headlamp or flashlight, extra batteries, and a friend or two to ease the night-hike jitters; let Mother Nature take care of the rest.
Gold Hill For bagging a sunset worthy of lacing up the hiking boots, the 3.7-mile hike up aptly named Gold Hill is as good as it gets. Beginning in a pretty forest of Douglas fir, Western hemlock and birch, the route curls around rock formations, relics of Lake Pend Oreille’s Ice Age past. 70
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Gold Hill
One mile in, a wooden bench beckons with peeks at the western Cabinets, although firs are rapidly reclaiming the view. After winding through a dense hardwood forest that brings to mind the North Atlantic, at 2.5 miles, step between an arbor of ponderosa pine and Douglas fir and onto the first of several open granite outcroppings with far-reaching views over the Long Bridge to the head of the Pend Oreille River and beyond. Gold Hill is a great place to watch storms funnel up the river and fan out over the lake, their leading-edge clouds seemingly close enough to touch; wait out the worst of the storm in the thick understory and reap the rewards of dramatic skies reflected in the lake. The smooth tread is forgiving of dusk-darkened footfalls, making this an excellent trip for first-time night hikers. Driving directions: Near milepost 471 on U.S. Highway 95 just south of the Long Bridge, head east on Bottle Bay Road 4.5 miles to the developed trailhead with parking and privy.
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SUNSETS
Green Monarch Divide
Mickinnick Trail For the best aerial view of Sandpoint, with east-facing but often colorful sunsets, drive 10 minutes north of downtown for the 7-mile (roundtrip) hike on the Mickinnick Trail. The Forest Service built the trail on land donated in 1997 by Nicky Pleass in memory of her late husband Mick, the name a portmanteau of Mick and Nicky’s name and that of the kinnickinnick plant that creeps along the forest floor much of the route. It’s a fairly strenuous hike, but frequent views mean hikers’ eyes won’t be glued to the ground. Douglas fir and birch garland the trail that switchbacks steeply with little relief, gaining nearly 2,200 feet of elevation in 3.5 miles. A bench at one mile provides respite and an easy sunset view, but the panorama from the top rewards pressing onward. Hikers must then contend with relentless switchbacks before reaching open meadows and bird’s-eye views of Lake Pend Oreille, Sandpoint spread out around its near shore and the Cabinet Mountains buttressing the far side. A bench, placed under a gracefully arching fir, is perfectly placed for a sunset show. The low-elevation Mickinnick Trail is ideal for shoulder-season sunsets, especially when snow caps the Cabinets for evening alpenglow. Rocky, rooty tread will test the nimblest of nighttime-hikers on the return. Driving directions: From Sandpoint, drive north on U.S. Highway 95 to Ponderay and turn left on Schweitzer Cutoff Road. Go 0.5 mile; turn right onto North Boyer and go 0.8 mile; turn left onto Schweitzer Mountain Road and go 0.5 mile to Woodland Drive; turn left and go 0.7 mile. The trailhead parking area is located on the right. Privy available.
Mickinnick Trail
Green Monarch Divide The Green Monarchs, the crown of the Coeur d’Alene Range on the east side of Lake Pend Oreille, feature prominently in Sandpoint sunset views. But the view from up there is even better. Nominally a ridge-running trail, Green Monarch Divide dips into and out of several steep, lodgepole-lined drainages, time and again capriciously taking back all your hard-earned elevation; the three miles to Green Monarch Mountain may feel twice that, but what a rewarding view for the work! A 1991 wildfire opened up expansive vistas: northwest to Garfield and Green bays and, beyond, downtown Sandpoint; west to the Rathdrum Prairie; and of course, a view straight down into the wild, wind-whipped shores of the lake nearly 3,000 feet below. Warm sunset hues complement tawny ponderosa and, in early autumn, golden larch. Although bare, level ground is scarce, hikers should consider tenting it to take advantage of the long drive to the trailhead. Driving directions: From Highway 200 in Clark Fork, drive south on Stephen Street. After crossing the Clark Fork River, turn right and continue 2.5 miles to a Y. Bear left onto Johnson Creek Road (Forest Road 278) and continue about 7 miles to another Y. Bear right, continuing on FR 278 for about 100 feet to the trailhead on the right.
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SUNSETS
Scotchman Peak
Scotchman Peak One of the steepest hikes in Idaho, iconic Scotchman Peak beckons both mountain goats and hikers with goatlike prowess in equal measure. Provided your knees, quads and lungs are up to the task, the 7,009-foot peak makes for one of the best sunset-viewing spots in northern Idaho too. Scotchman Peak rewards those who conquer the
calf-cramping climb of nearly 4,000 feet in just three and a quarter miles with acres of beargrass and bird’s-eye views of Lake Pend Oreille, the Clark Fork delta and the evening lights of Sandpoint almost a vertical mile below. The western horizon will transfix, but turn around, too: the granite slabs of the Cabinet Mountains look their best in the red of a late-summer sunset. To avoid perilous night-time boulder hopping, descend off the summit before dark. On the open western flank of the peak, the creamy clusters of beargrass blooms resemble tiki torches in the afterglow of dusk. Driving directions: From Highway 200 in Clark Fork, drive north on Main Street, which becomes Forest Road 276, for 2.5 miles. Bear right at the Y onto Forest Road 2995, following the signs for Trail 65. Continue 1 mile and turn left on Road 2294. Drive 0.4 mile and bear left on Road 2294A. Continue 2.3 miles, crossing a small creekbed, to the trailhead.
For all your watersports needs. kayaks, paddle boards, wakeboards, water skis, surfboards and accessories
208-263-5157 AlpineShopSandpoint.com 213 Church Street 72
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Salmo Loop Although the Shedroof Divide, the north-south ridge that straddles the Idaho-Washingon border and separates the Pend Oreille and Priest River drainages, lies within the Selkirks, it bears little resemblance to the Selkirk Crest east of Priest Lake; think beargrass-clad balds rather than cliff-hanging alpine lakes. The open terrain makes for stunning sunset views – shared only with grizzlies and caribou. The 19-mile Salmo Loop descends to the cedar-shaded Salmo River and back up through brushy, bear-friendly meadows before reaching the Shedroof Divide, where snags from frequent fires frame nonstop views on the latter half of the loop. From the extant fire lookout on Little Snowy Top, just past the halfway point of the hike, watch the sun set behind the distinctively off-kilter pyramid of Hooknose Mountain. The spires of the southern British Columbia Selkirks stand to the north; far below to
the east sleeps Priest Lake. Plan extra hiking time for harvesting the copious huckleberries – all the more plentiful for being so hard to reach. The 41,000-acre Salmo-Priest Wilderness protects the Washington portion of the loop; the Idaho portion, including Little Snowy Top, remains unprotected yet no less wildernessworthy. A long drive to the trailhead, coupled with the perils of hiking at
dusk in grizzly country, recommend this as a quick overnighter rather than a day trip for sunset hunters. Fortunately, the sunrises are just as good. Driving directions: From Highway 31 just south of Ione, Wash., drive east 12.5 miles on Sullivan Lake Road toward Sullivan Lake. Just north of the Sullivan Lake Ranger Station, turn right on Forest Road 22. Drive 6 miles, and, at the junction with Pass Creek Pass
Salmo Loop
Road, bear left onto Forest Road 2220. Drive 14 miles on well-graded gravel to the large trailhead. Privy available. This trail can also be accessed from Nordman, north of Priest Lake, via Pass Creek Pass.
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SUMMER 2015
Welcome to Sandpoint Dr. Whitney Henker drhenker@SandpointOptometry.com SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
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HOPE MARINA
Hope’s Premier Full Service Marina
Located in Ellisport Bay on beautiful Lake Pend Oreille in scenic Hope, Idaho. Hope’s premier full service marina offering accessory room, full service shop, and docking facilities. Our sales department represents Wooldridge Boats, Honda Motors and Volvo/Penta engines and we offer customer service like no other marina on the lake.
Other services include: showers, laundromat, boat rentals, pump-out
station, attended fuel dock, float-plane accommodations, and, of course, the Floating Restaurant.
N
S
Full Service Marine Repair Facility HOPE MARINE SERVICES
22+ years of serving Lake Pend Oreille and beyond. • • • •
On site dock and ramp service Complete marine upholstery department Volvo Penta - Honda Marine - Indmar authorized repair center Servicing most makes and models
HOPE MARINA | 208.264.5106 HOPE MARINE SERVICES | 208.264.5105 HopeMarina.com 47392 Hwy 200 Hope, Idaho
At Hope Marina
Join us at The Floating Restaurant For: Lunch, Dinner and Sunday Brunch
Completely Remodeled Dining Room, Lounge and Covered Patio
Spectacular Views Aged Beef Fresh Seafood
Local & Fresh Ingredients Full Bar Fine Wines
www.HopeFloatingRestaurant.com 208.264.5311 | 47392 HWY 200 East Hope
F
SHES
THE SECRET LIVES OF
F SHES F
PHOTO BY CHRIS BIER
ish are wildlife, too. In a place so rich with animals, that’s something easy to miss. We know our mammals are amazing – moose, deer, bear, wild canines and cats, weasels and more are animals you can spot here. Our birds are amazing, too: magnificent ospreys and eagles are common, waterfowl crowd in by the thousands, species from tiny hummingbirds to great blue herons are all easy to see. But fish? Even in a landscape distinguished by great lakes and rivers, most of us know about our fish mainly from those photos of a grinning fisherman showing off a big one. It’s a case of out of sight, out of mind. Most of us can’t get underwater to see the fish. But our fish are amazing too. And they’re amazing all over the place, not just in Lake Pend Oreille. The lake produces those oft-photographed trophy-size mackinaw and Kamloops trout, and the plentiful land-locked salmon called kokanee. But those are only the marquee fish, if you will – and guess what? They’re not even native. There’s a whole bunch of other species around here, native and newcomers. It’s time to meet the amazing fishes of northern Idaho. 76
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NATIVE SPECIES
{
{
NONNATIVE SPECIES
F
SHES
Salmonids
Bull trout (Salvelinus confluentus) Westslope cutthroat trout (Oncorhynchus clarki) Idaho State Fish Mountain whitefish (Prosopium williamsoni) Pygmy whitefish (Prosopium coulterii) Northern pikeminnow (Ptychocheilus oregonensis)
Kootenai River only* Codfish (Gadids) Burbot (Lota lota)
Sturgeon (Acipenserids)
White sturgeon (Acipenser transmontanus)
Salmonids (Salmonidae) Rainbow trout, and Kamloops or Gerrard rainbow (Oncorhynchus mykiss) Lake trout, or mackinaw (Salvelinus namaycush) Brook trout (Salvelinus fontinalis) Brown trout (Salmo trutta) Kokanee salmon (Oncorhynchus nerka) Lake whitefish (Coregonus clupeaformis) Largemouth and smallmouth bass (Micropterus salmoides, M. dolomieu)
Perches (Perchids)
Walleye (Sander vitreus) Yellow perch (Perca flavescens)
Catfish (Ictalurids)
Bullhead (Ictaluras melas, I. nebulosus)
Pike (Esocids)
Northern pike (Esox lucius)
Sunfish (Centrarchids)
Black crappie (Pomoxis nigromaculatus) Bluegill (Lepomis macrochirus) Green sunfish (Lepomis cyanellus) Pumpkinseed (Lepomis gibbosus)
*Other native species found in the Kootenai River include large scale sucker, redside shiner, peamouth chub, long nose sucker, sculpin and longnose dace.
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F
SHES
Famous Fish of Lake Pend Oreille
I
PHOTO BY PETE COMSTOCK
n the fall, like the changing leaves, the sleek silver body with the blue-green back grows orange, red, then scarlet. A hump swells behind a now dusky green head, and the skin thickens to appear leathery. The males develop a kype – prominently hooked elongated jaws overfilled with sharp teeth – the metamorphosis to a fighter, preparing for a final battle. Kokanee, a landlocked variety of sockeye salmon, sexually mature around age 4. The radical alteration of their appearance, prior to spawning, signals the end of their life cycle. Returning to where they originally hatched, females use their tails to cut depressions in the gravel, creating a nest called a redd. With tearing teeth and body blows, the males compete for females and defend their territories. Once eggs and milt are deposited into a pocket of the redd, the female darts upstream and uses her tail to cover the pocket with a protective layer of sand and gravel while building a second pocket. This process repeats two or three times before the female runs out of eggs. She’ll guard the nest until, her energy depleted, she drifts downstream and dies. The males die soon after. The following spring, when water temperatures warm into the 40s F, the pale orange eggs begin to quiver until a tiny tail or head pops through the shell. Shaking ensues until a new kokanee, known as alevin or sac fry, emerges. Near the throat, an attached yolk sac provides oxygen and food for the alevin, which hides deep in the nest’s gravel, allowing its body to complete development. Weeks later, the kokanee fry form schools and migrate, mostly at night, back into the lake. Kokanee didn’t exist in Lake Pend Oreille (LPO) prior to washing in from Montana, during a period of flooding circa 1933. The populations exploded to form the cornerstone of a worldclass trout fishery. Kamloops refers to a strain of redband rainbow trout found in the interior of British Columbia, Canada. Within Kootenay Lake exists a genetically superior strain known as the Gerrard Kamloops – a fish that matures slower and lives longer, but grows faster, stronger and larger than any other Kamloops. In his book, “About Trout: The Best of Robert J. Behnke from Trout Magazine,” Behnke describes the difference between a Gerrard and standard Kamloops as equivalent to comparing a
SPAWNING KOKANEE BY EILEEN KLATT
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BULL TROUT BY WARD TOLLBOM
By Cassandra Cridland rare “estate-bottled” wine with the “vin-ordinaire.” Between 1940 and 1943, Gerrard eggs were procured from Kootenay Lake, hatched and released in LPO. Feasting on a diet of kokanee, the Gerrards thrived. In 1947, six years after the first release of fry into LPO, Wes Hamlet pulled a 37-pounder from the waters, a world record that stood for more than 50 years. Native bull trout that fed primarily on whitefish, native cutthroat and minnows also benefited from the abundance of kokanee. In October 1949, Nelson Higgins landed a whopping 32-pound bull trout from LPO, a world record that still stands. A school of kokanee moves through a patch of zooplankton on the lake’s surface, feeding by screening water through their gill rakers. From below, a shadow plunges in and grabs a kokanee. Terrified fish scatter. The Gerrard heads for deeper water, gripping its struggling prey. Out of the darkness, a large, steel-colored fish with silvery spots torpedoes through the water, homing in on the fleeing Gerrard. Huge jaws gape and with a mighty snap, the mackinaw, or lake trout, engulfs the back half of the Gerrard. Three fish flail in the water, but only one survives. With good intentions, the federal government introduced mackinaw to LPO and Priest Lake in 1925. Like a sleeper cell, the fish spent the next 50 years acclimating to the envi-
salm onid (a fish of the salm on fam ily)
GERRARD RAINBOW TROUT BY EILEEN KLATT
ronment, but lacked the trigger to make conquest of the waters doable. The juvenile macks required a suitable and consistent food source. During the 1960s, a clamor rose among anglers for better food to grow bigger kokanee, which led to the introduction of mysis shrimp. Then, the unthinkable happened. The kokanee fishery crashed. According to Idaho Fish and Game (IFG) Panhandle Region Fishery Manager Jim Fredericks: “Unfortunately, shrimp didn’t turn out to be good feed for kokanee. It wasn’t that the kokanee wouldn’t eat shrimp, it was more about availability. In the daytime, when the kokanee are feeding in the upper water levels, shrimp are way down deep at 400 to 600 feet. At night, when the shrimp come to the surface, the kokanee aren’t feeding. So, they eat them when they see them, but they just don’t see them.” The influx of shrimp where juvenile mackinaw lurked increased survival rates among the young macks. Meanwhile, shrimp feed on zooplankton. Widespread competition for food combined with more predators in the “pond” devastated the kokanee population. By the 2000s, the implementation of drastic measures to ensure their recovery included closing the fishery to anglers. Unlike bull trout, which needs “the best of the best” in terms of spawning and rearing tributaries, or the Gerrard, which only thrives on kokanee, mackinaw make do with a variety of prey, less than perfect habitat, and have the added advantage of living decades longer than any other trout in the lake. “If there aren’t fish to eat, lake trout can actually do fine eating invertebrates, mysis shrimp, insects, or whatever they can find. They are not going to starve out and die,” said Fredericks. As proof, the Idaho record for mackinaw came out of Priest Lake in November 1971. Lyle McClure landed a monster that weighed 57.5 pounds. The previous kings of the panhandle waterways, the native bull trout, remain viable in LPO, Priest Lake and surrounding streams but are listed currently as a threatened species. According to Fredericks: “Historically, bull trout were going hundreds of miles – way up past Missoula in the Clark Fork to spawn. So there was a tremendous amount of spawning, rearing habitat and Pend Oreille was their ocean.” Requiring water temperatures from 40 to 50 F that are oxygenated and sustain a high level of purity, a stream habitat with both riffles and deep pools, and connections between lakes and tributaries, the bull trout’s domain shrank with the building of dams
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and higher levels of sediment in streams. While not growing as large as other trout, native cutthroat trout, Idaho’s state fish, flourishes in the lakes and streams of northern Idaho. There are 14 strains of cutthroat of which three – the Yellowstone, Bonneville and Westslope are natives. In the panhandle the latter strain prevails. Higher water clarity typically indicates fewer nutrients for fish. Cutthroat, distinguished by the red slash under their lower jaw, adapted to Idaho’s crystal clear streams by aggressively striking at anything that might be food, making them a favorite among anglers. Between reducing mackinaw and rainbow populations and bolstering natural spawns with hatchery produced fry, the kokanee population now shows strong signs of recovering. This is good news for anglers and all the fish in the system.
CUTTHROAT TROUT
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Burbot A story of survival By Cassandra Cridland
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burbot looks like it should be the love child of a catfish and an eel instead of the only freshwater member of the cod family. A somewhat flattened head sports a single chin barbel and a wide mouth filled with small teeth. Fan-shaped pectoral fins attach to a compressed and elongated body topped by two low dorsal fins – one short followed by one long. A similarly long anal fin and a rounded tail fin bring up the rear. Their mottled skin patterns blend with the dappled river and lake bottoms in which they dwell, and their coloration ranges from deep olives and creams to an almost dusty “ghost” gray. On average, burbot range from 11 to 24 inches in length and weigh 2 to 6 pounds, but in the right environment, burbot grow to over 3 feet long, weigh over 30 pounds and live upwards of 20 years. Distributed in cold, clear water throughout the northern latitudes of the world, burbot is native only to Boundary County’s Kootenai River in Idaho. Decades ago, when the Kootenai River iced over every winter, before thousands of acres of wetland disappeared behind dikes to promote agriculture, and dams were installed to generate power and flood control, burbot and many other species flourished in and along the Kootenai. When the deep freeze of winter would settle across the valley and everything warm-blooded hunkered down to wait out the cold, for two or three weeks beneath the January/February ice, the burbot would spawn over the sandy substrates in the slack water of the Kootenai and dozens of tributaries. A writhing knot of male and female fish cavorting beneath the ice until the water turned to froth and millions of fertilized eggs, each slightly bigger than a grain of sand, hung suspended like a living cloud of silt. Traditionally, during the spawn is when the members of the Kootenai Tribe would fish for the “leopard of the Kootenai.” Tribal Chair Gary Aitken Jr. said: “We mostly fished for them in the winter, in January or February. There was about a two week time frame, when they were spawning. They would move up in the creeks. We’d use the same weirs that we’d used in the summer but make them up heavier duty. We’d have to actually break through the ice each time to collect and try and look and see how the fish were doing. When we were done fishing, we’d clean them out, and roast or smoke them over a fire. … That’s when we had a plentiful burbot. Instead of a whole tribal thing where you’d feed everybody, it was more a family responsibility. Each family
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would have a different creek or a different area. They would build their weirs and collect them, and you’d have enough food to eat.” It’s a simple fact that things change. More people means the available resources have to be shared and divided, again and again. Eventually something is bound to come up short. No one factor explains what caused the decline of burbot in the Kootenai River system: habitat loss and alteration, weather dynamics, overexploitation, or the reduction of mysis shrimp for burbot forage. However, a tipping point arrived with the building of the Libby Dam in the 1970s. Vital nutrients became trapped in the reservoir behind the dam, water currents altered from natural cycles, and overall water temperature climbed. The following statement reads like an obituary: “Idaho
Lota lota (a Hol arct ic fres hwa ter bony fish )
BURBOT
Fish and Game (IFG) has been monitoring the movement, habitat use and spawning behavior of burbot since 1993 and has not found evidence of successful spawning or recruitment in Idaho.” Repeated samplings of the river indicated the population of burbot had dropped to less than 100 fish. For all practical purposes, the native strain of burbot in the Kootenai River was gone – wiped out – functionally extinct. Aitken said, “Every animal has a song.” Over the course of the last five decades, the mighty, boisterous chorus of the Kootenai burbot dwindled to a few broken voices. Was anyone listening? Between 1999 and 2002, IFG, Idaho Conservation League and the American Wildlands convened studies, filed petitions and lawsuits with and against the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, but by 2003 all of these attempts had stalled out at the federal level. By October 2001, the Kootenai Valley Resource Initiative (KVRI) was formed under a joint powers agreement between the Kootenai Tribe of Idaho (KTOI), the city of Bonners Ferry and Boundary County. This partnership realized everyone benefited by working together to resolve natural resource issues. According to documents provided by the KTOI, “The KVRI membership and its partners include the Tribe; federal, state, and provincial fisheries and water regulatory agencies; local city and county government; private citizens and landowners; environmental advocacy groups; and local representatives of business and industry.” For the first time, everyone came to the table and sat down to resolve the issue of burbot recovery. In 2005, “The KVRI Burbot Conservation Strategy was completed and a multilateral conservation agreement was signed to ensure burbot population decline would be addressed,” the documents state. The effort to restore burbot is international. The large, vital commercial burbot fishery that once existed in British Columbia’s West Arm Kootenay Lake vanished and the B.C. Ministry and the people of Canada want to see burbot thrive again. According to Kenneth Cain, a University of Idaho professor in the Department of Fish and Wildlife Sciences and associate director of the Aquaculture Research Institute, someone heard. The Kootenai Tribe had been working collaboratively with the management agencies in both the United States and Canada, and made arrangements to bring in the University of Idaho as a partner as well. “We started working with burbot in 2003. The Kootenai Tribe started to investigate the potential to develop a conservation aquaculture program to produce burbot in captivity and release them into the Kootenai River to rebuild the nearly extirpated population,” said Cain. “They had worked with us previously, for their white sturgeon program. We had a facility and programs here that could assist them in developing some of the techniques,
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in order to actually rear this fish in captivity.” The next few years would involve a lot of trial and error. Raising burbot in captivity was an endeavor with more questions than documented answers. The first adult burbot, under a cooperative arrangement with British Columbia, arrived at the lab in October 2003, months before they would be ready to spawn, and they needed to be sorted into different tanks. “The fact that you can’t tell the males apart from the females is something a lot of people don’t realize,” said Cain. “The sex differentiation thing is a tough one. There’s no outside characteristic that we’ve been able to effectively figure out. … At the time of spawning, all you got to do is squeeze the male and you can see the milt coming out. And if nothing comes out, it’s probably a female, in most cases. We had to bring a radiologist, from the Vet School at WSU, with an ultrasound machine. This guy had done Atlantic salmon for Norway and he was used to looking at fish. These fish look different, but after about the second fish, he was 100 percent. He had it all figured out after that.” In February 2004, they successfully spawned the fish in their lab, but growing them to a size that can be stocked is another matter altogether. Burbot eggs hatch, becoming larvae the size of an eyelash. For the first 10 to 14 days, they have no mouth. When they do start eating, they require very, very small food, rotifers and artemia – think sea monkeys, which must be alive, because burbot cue in on movement. So, you not only have to raise the fish, you also have to raise the food to feed the hungry masses. “The first year, we had probably 5 to 8 million eggs, and we had four fish out of that whole batch. They are so small when they hatch. At that time, we didn’t know any of the techniques. They would just disappear if you looked at them wrong. They didn’t like SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
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Bur bot (fro m Old Fre nch borb eter to stir up mud )
to survive. They would get out of any little area and just not be there the next day,” said Cain. Eventually, they reach a size where they can eat a formulated food. Cain added: “You’ll lose a lot during that transition period, when they are trying to go from a live to a dry feed, because they like to eat each other. That’s a big problem.” At this stage, they need to be separated by size and have a limitless amount of food in front of them. Otherwise, you end up with a few large fish in your tank that have cannibalized the others. While Cain and his students continued to work through the mysteries of successfully raising burbot in captivity and releasing them into the wild, the Kootenai Tribe’s Kootenai River Habitat Restoration Program was under way and gaining ground. In July 2009, the Kootenai River Habitat Restoration Program Master Plan unfurled. This holistic, ecosystem-based plan strives to mitigate or restore the lost habitat in and along the Kootenai River. Work started in 2011 and will continue for several years to come. Each phase of the project is designed to restore the food web, enhance or create suitable habitat, promote the growth and sustainability of native fish species, and at the same time assist landowners and encourage community involvement. The needs of the people who depend on the Kootenai River for power, recreation and their livelihoods are of primary importance. Funding for these projects and many others is being provided by Bonneville Power Administration (BPA) through the Northwest Power and Conservation Council’s Fish and Wildlife Program. The goal is to have sustainable populations of burbot, sturgeon and other species that can be used for cultural and subsistence purposes,
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but first you have to resolve the underlying factors that destroyed the populations in the first place. Under a cooperative arrangement with the Kootenai Tribe, IFG and the Canadian provincial government, the first release of burbot produced in the University of Idaho facilities occurred in 2009 and has continued every year since. With the Twin Rivers Sturgeon and Burbot Hatchery completed in 2014, rearing burbot will transition from the university to the KTOI. Cain said: “We’ve tagged those fish. IFG has worked with us. They’ve followed those fish, using sonic transmitters. The B.C. Ministry of Environment tracked these fish all the way to the north end of Kootenay Lake. They’ve been found all the way to the Montana border and there is good evidence now, pretty definitive evidence, that some of the fish put out there are spawning naturally in the river.” The passion and drive poured into the recovery efforts appears to be paying off, but the river is a long way from sustainable populations. No one is even sure how many fish make up a thriving, self-maintaining community. Shawn Young, KTOI Aquaculture Program manager, said: “There wasn’t a lot of historical data collected before Libby Dam.” A lack of “historical data” means no baseline with which to work. “It’s really hard to gauge exactly what the level should be after all those decades of changes,” said Young. “Some folks from IFG and other agencies, back in the 2000s, tried to do some exercises with the best available data. The number we’re ultimately shooting for is somewhere around 17,000 to 18,000 spawning adults.” Burbot reach sexual maturity, on average, between 3 and 4 years old, which doesn’t seem like a long time, unless you’re a fish in a wild and unpredictable river surrounded SUMMER 2015
by other hungry creatures. Even the largest burbot are poor swimmers against a current. In the past, changing flow rates from the Libby Dam have prevented fish from reaching suitable spawning areas. Remember, these fish spawn in near freezing temperatures. Since the installation of the dam, the Kootenai River rarely ices over. If the river temperature goes above 43 F, most eggs will die. Newly hatched larvae spend their first few days drifting with the current, looking for food. Nutrients are currently being added to the river to promote zooplankton growth, but to date, forage in the river remains patchy. In a hatchery setting, water temperatures, food density and a host of other factors may be intensely controlled to provide the optimum environment to produce healthy fish. Referring to projections for the new hatchery, Young said, “If we have 6 million good, viable, healthy eggs, we’re hoping to get about 100,000 to 125,000 six-month-old juveniles for release.” IFG conducts river sampling during the winter. Strategies for reducing mortality rates are implemented and adapted; every possible factor for mitigating the altered nature of the Kootenai River habitat is considered. The “song” of the burbot grows stronger with each new voice in the river. What is at stake for the KTOI if the burbot recovery program fails? “We’d be losing a huge part of our spirituality,” Aitken said. “I don’t even want to think about the possibility. To lose a species is unfathomable. So, we’re trying our best to keep them around. I think the way we’re doing it we’re going to be successful.” Maybe this is the generation that will hear every note of the music restored.
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Tribe bolsters sturgeon, burbot
By Cassandra Cridland
WHITE STURGEON
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estled on 10 acres at the confluence of the Kootenai and the Moyie rivers in Boundary County, the new Twin Rivers Sturgeon and Burbot Hatchery (TRSBH) was busy preparing for the anticipated April 2015 hatch of burbot, the first batch since the $15 million facility opened near the end of 2014. The Kootenai Tribe of Idaho (KTOI) started its aquaculture conservation program in 1988 with the intention of restoring the endangered white sturgeon to the Kootenai River. Over the years, expanding needs took their original Tribal Sturgeon Hatchery to capacity both physically and functionally. Limits on water resources and space prevented further growth of the facility. While continuing to operate the original hatchery for white sturgeon production, the new facility gives the KTOI room for expanded sturgeon operations and provides a failsafe that previously meant sending fish to Canada. According to KTOI Aquaculture Program Manager Shawn Young: “Some of the families that were spawned at the Kootenai Tribal Hatchery were transported up to the B.C. Hatchery and reared up there under contract, so that, if one or the other of the facilities had any major issues, there could still be some sturgeon for each year class released into the river.” Even with the space dedicated to sturgeon, the new 33,000-square-foot main hatchery building has plenty of room for rearing burbot and the live food they depend on for survival. Young compared the specially designed live feed area to having a third hatchery under the same roof. At the Tribal Sturgeon Hatchery, the only water option is ambient river water, which means in the winter, when water temperatures plummet, fish growth drops to nothing. “At the Twin Rivers Hatchery, we have the ability to do a whole host of things, rearing on ambient river water, or you can raise them on heated ground water to get them to a significantly larger size. The post release data suggests that if they’re bigger at release, they tend to survive better. And also, if you release in the spring-early summer, they tend to survive better. So, we implemented more water sources, more rearing tanks,” said Young. On a typical day, work starts with the hatchery staff at both facilities making observations and measurements of all the tanks that support live fish or animals. At the same time, water flow and temperatures may be adjusted and everything is fed. Once the live portion is handled, work moves to verification that all of the equipment and support systems are operational.
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Specialty tasks, such as setting up tanks or equipment, or getting ready for the next life stage, also takes up time daily. Fieldwork varies by season, whether it’s collecting wild sturgeon from the Kootenai River for brood stock or the processing of spawning burbot on the ice of Moyie Lake in British Columbia. In addition to the main hatchery building at Twin Rivers, there is a 7,000-squarefoot vehicle maintenance and storage building; two residences for employees; two concrete settling ponds and two groundwater wells; and all of the necessary equipment for pumping and storing surface water from the rivers. The new TRSBH is exactly what the Kootenai Valley Resource Initiative intended, when it spelled out objectives in the 2005 Burbot Conservation Strategy: a functional, expandable site suitable for meeting the critical needs of burbot conservation staffed with dedicated professionals.
Kootenai Tribal Chair Gary Aitken Jr. says they would lose a huge part of their spirituality if the burbot recovery program fails. PHOTO BY DOUG MARSHALL
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Piscivorous Predators The furry and feathered fishermen GREAT BLUE HERON. PHOTO BY STEVE JAMSA
By Heather McElwain
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PHOTO BY CHRIS BIER
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hen you live around lakes where fish are part of the culture, chances are you’ve heard your share of fish stories. I thought I’d heard them all – tales of fighters that snapped lines, accounts of fish that surely would have broken records if hooked, and even conspiracy theories of sturgeonesque lake creatures. But the best fish story I’ve heard in a while came from Ed Dickson, long-time captain of Diamond Charters on Lake Pend Oreille. He told of an otherwise ordinary day catching 30-some-inch trout with two clients, when he heard a line whir, followed immediately by another rod bending. As he helped the fishermen with their lines, he heard a third reel go off but couldn’t spot the line anywhere in the water. Squinting in the sun, he finally traced it – heading straight into the air, pulled taut in an eagle’s clutch. Turns out, many of the best fish stories don’t involve humans at all. Barbara and Dave Gillespie, board members of Lake Pend Oreille Idaho Club, confirmed this when they relayed a story of witnessing an osprey with “eyes too big for its belly and body”: After diving to snag a rainbow released from a derby contestant, the osprey – overwhelmed by the fish’s size – had to do a sort of splatter-flutter breast stroke 300 yards to shore. The Gillespies watched as the bedraggled and exhausted osprey finally dragged the fish onto a rock, stood atop it, and reaped the rewards. All in all, a happy ending. Ospreys are surely the greatest hooks in fish flesh here. They feed almost wholly on live fish, and unlike some of us – they actually catch fish. According to Cornell Lab of Ornithology, ospreys’ success rate is estimated between 70 and 90 percent, with an average of only 12 minutes spent hunting from perch or midair. From as high as 120 feet, ospreys will dive, feet first, and often completely submerge, aided by uniquely dislocatable shoulder joints, underwater vision and closing nostrils. Fish have little chance of escape from the tight grip of spiny-spiked talons. Ospreys then rotate their prey face forward for streamlined flight back to the nest. Brilliant adaptation is a theme that runs through fish stories. Though eagles are perhaps slightly less sporting than ospreys, their fishing know-how is not to be diminished. They will perch on shoreline snags conSANDPOINT MAGAZINE
tentedly for hours, and then suddenly arrow across a bay, plunging and lifting again with a writhing tail. With their ability to see fish from several hundred feet away – some purport as far as two miles even – and with a diving speed between 125 and 200 miles an hour, they are taloned clippers. They aren’t above shortcuts though: Rather than always fishing for themselves, they have no trouble pilfering from others, whether catch dropped from another raptor, stolen directly from their talons, or snagged off Captain Ed’s boat. I once watched a bald eagle patiently wait over open water in an otherwise frozen bay until a raven began circling overhead. When the eagle flew up to dissuade the raven, a fish left the cover of ice and another eagle swooped down to lift dinner. A fable to heed, indeed. Also in this fish story hall of fame are herons – keepers of bays, inlets and estuaries. They wade in measured meditation like agile fly fishermen casting sidelong glances for movement beneath the surface. Statuesque, stealth and often in solitary stoicism, they stalk and strike with whip-sharp accuracy, and then shake impaled fish to relax their sharp spines before swallowing them whole. They are clearly suited to fish, too, with long wading legs, dagger-like bills and chest feathers called “powder down” that they use to remove fish slime and oils after successful catches. Talk about resolution. If herons are the bay watch, kingfishers are the royal guards. With an apropos name, these regal
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Big lake fishing
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o question that as a fishing destination, Lake Pend Oreille is most famous for its huge Gerrard rainbow
sentries who eat mostly small fish often mount atop power lines, snags, or other perches in sit-and-wait predation, or patrol tributaries and shorelines. Unlike herons that shake their prey, kingfishers billy club them against their perch before swallowing them whole. A whole cast of other piscivorous characters also take advantage of the lake’s offerings. Grebes, loons, mergansers and various waterfowl chase schools of baitfish. Caspian terns were among the most abundant fish-eating waterbirds counted in 2014 Clark Fork Delta Restoration surveys. Cormorants have been frequenting the flyway. And as the Gillespies related, seagulls commonly engage anglers in unwelcomed tugs-of-war. This narrative would be incomplete, though, without mentioning the more covert piscivorous mammals, such as river otters that eat slow-moving, midsize fish; or raccoons – like opportunistic dogs awaiting scraps from above – that glean eagles’ and ospreys’ dropped fish. During the fall kokanee spawn, bear populations around tributaries swell as they attempt to fill bellies for hibernation. A biologist friend described the benefits of this give-and-take: Think fish meal fertilizer scat scattered about. Idaho Fish and Game Regional Fishery Manager Jim Fredericks also stressed these connections. He emphasized how maintaining a fishery of native species – with bull trout, cutthroat and kokanee running up tributaries to spawn – also sustains bears, coyotes, mink and others, as opposed to a fishery of deepwater species that are virtually unavailable to predators. Fish have been protagonists in legends of survival since before the first peoples told them around fires, and continue today. We all share these singular waters in an epic scene stocked with tales that involve the feathered, furred and adrenaline-fueled. Our task is to ensure continuance of them all.
trout and the small but plentiful kokanee salmon. However, the lake stretches nearly 40 lineal miles with a diversity of habitats for many other species of game fish, both cold and warmwater species. To fish successfully for those big Kams requires a boat outfitted in most cases with downriggers – and a good bit of knowledge about how and where to fish the lake. If you lack those essential ingredients, several fishing charters operate here: • Captain Ed Dickson, Diamond Charters
since 1992, 32foot Carver yacht with a flying bridge. 1-800-4TROUT6, www. diamondcharters.com
Calvin Fuller and son Landon catch a big Gerrard rainbow trout. COURTESY PHOTO
• Eagle Charters, David Beshunsky and Captain James Mullen, Tollycraft yacht. 264-5274, www. eaglecharters.net • Kurt Artner, Pend Oreille Charters since 2001, 28foot cabin cruiser with a flying bridge. 265-6781, www. pocharters.com • Captain Ken Hayes, Seagull Charters since 1985, 34foot custom Dolphin yacht. 290-7979, seagullcharters.net Shoreline fishing on Lake Pend Oreille can serve up a host of other species, including cutthroat and brown trout, crappie, perch, pumpkinseed, smallmouth and largemouth bass and even bullhead, a type of catfish. A good place to gear up and get intel on where and what to fish is North 40 Outfitters on U.S. Highway 95 in Ponderay. The sporting department is staffed by knowledgeable anglers: 255-5757, www.north40.com. For a guided excursion, Go Fish! Charters operated by Chad Landrum specializes in the warmwater game fish and charters an agile 18-foot Lund with casting platforms fore and aft for fishermen in quest of pike, walleye, perch, bass and crappie plus whitefish, trout and more: 597-5020, www.gofishcharters.org.
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WarmWater Imports The other game fish
By Cassandra Cridland
NORTHERN PIKE LARGEMOUTH BASS
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ust after dawn, the water wolf holds motionless in the lee of a submerged log. Her long body dappled the same green as the sunlight reflected across the silt bottom provides perfect camouflage. Water caresses her fins, making the dark striations appear as floating shadows from nearby weeds. Hungry, she waits. Northern pike, known as water wolves, emigrated downstream from Montana where they were probably stocked unlawfully by “bucket biologists” – anglers who introduce a nonnative fish to local waters, often to the detriment of existing fisheries. According to the Idaho Fish and Game (IFG) Panhandle Region Fishery Manager Jim Fredericks, pike reside in low densities in the Idaho portion of the Pend Oreille (POS) system: “They haven’t really taken off below Cabinet Gorge Dam, I think largely because they’re not able to effectively spawn and reproduce.” Considering that a pike needs to eat 5 to 10 pounds of fish to gain a pound of body weight, their small numbers spare other fish in the system. A spindle-shaped school of yellow perch hugs the bottom, swimming past a submerged pile of brush. The vibrations of their movement excite internal shivers down the pike’s lateral line, specialized pores that allow fish to sense pressure and movement, but externally she’s unshaken. Hungry, she waits. The U.S. Fish Commission brought warmwater game fish, including yellow perch, to the Pacific Northwest in the late 1800s. While generally abundant throughout Bonner and Boundary counties, perch begin spawning after “ice-off,” which means strong weather events like windstorms can blow their eggs on shore and negatively affect their populations. “They have strong and weak year classes,” said Fredericks. “That’s just something that perch typically do.” The olive-striped perch move over the log. A shattering lunge erupts into the school. A shovel-shaped maw gapes and then plunges sideways into the belly of a fish, driving it forward away from the othYELLOW PERCH ers. The sharp canine teeth of the pike’s lower jaw SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
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impale the struggling perch. Rows of backward slanting teeth line the roof of her mouth, allowing the pike to maintain her grip as she works up the flailing body. Her jaws encompass the head, turning the live perch into her waiting gullet. The perch’s frantic tail flips, propelling it farther into the body of the pike. Content, she settles to the bottom to digest her meal. In late spring, as shallow water temperatures approach 60 F, a male largemouth bass searches for a nest site, one with sufficient gravel, away from strong currents and pounding waves. Near a pair of large boulders, he sets to work rapidly sweeping with his tail and relocating debris by picking it up in his mouth and then spitting it into place. Within hours, he will dig a circular depression up to 6 inches deep and up to 2 feet in diameter. A female approaches. Racing to meet her, he attempts to lead her back to his nest. He resorts to herding her with gentle nips and bumps. Above the nest, the female drops eggs while the male simultaneously releases milt to fertilize them. Finished, she heads to deeper water for
SMALLMOUTH BASS
recovery, while he remains to guard the eggs. Largemouth bass have existed throughout the lakes of the panhandle for the last century. They prefer the vegetated, low velocity areas of sloughs and bays where there is slack water throughout the winter. Marauders circle the nest – a hungry school of bluegill intent on a meal of bass eggs. The male largemouth charges, driving off two or three; a dozen others in the bluegill school dart in, snatching a quick bite of eggs. Bluegills, a type of sunfish, tend to overpopulate their habitat because they have high hatch and survival rates. While Lake Pend Oreille sports very few bluegill, the fish prevails in other waters across the panhandle. “Ideally, bass and bluegill balance themselves out, because bluegill can eat bass fry and eggs and keep the bass from getting too abundant. By the same token, bass can and do feed on bluegill,” said Fredericks. Another member of the sunfish family and a popular sport fish, black crappie, fills waters around Bonner and Boundary counties. The head and chest of a male black crappie grows darker in color with the onset of spawning. Males build colonies of saucer-shaped nests in muddy bottoms near vegetation. Speculation and probability suggest that females will drop eggs in more than one nest. A 10-inch female may produce in excess of 100,000 eggs. However, their spawning success can be spoBLACK CRAPPIE radic and sometimes results in a “boom-orbust” fishery.
CATFISH
Tucked away in the bottoms of most of our lakes and sloughs, the brown bullhead catfish lurks. While preferring water temperatures in excess of 50 degrees, they tolerate from 32 to 98 degrees. Neither high turbidity nor low oxygen bothers them, because they adapt to poor environments. Parental fish, both male and female bullheads work to keep their eggs, up to 14,000 of them, oxygenated, fanning them with their tails and stirring them with their barbels. Males will suck the eggs into their mouths to clean them before spitting them back into the nest. Both parents guard the fry until they reach about an inch long. Like other catfish, thousands of taste buds cover a bullhead’s skin, which means they can sample their food without putting it in their mouth. They benefit from a keenness of per
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ception – an exquisite sense of touch, visual and hearing acuity, a sharp sense of smell, and the ability to sense electric fields generated by living organisms. Presumably, smallmouth bass came downstream from Montana. They now abound in the POS. “They went from not being in our system at all to being ubiquitous throughout Pend Oreille Lake and the Pend Oreille River, and that happened in the 2000s,” Fredericks said. Unlike largemouth bass, the more aggressive smallmouth likes cooler, faster water. They tend to occupy steeper shorelines and rockier areas, preferences that put the smallmouth in direct competition with the latest predator from Montana, the walleye. Although still low in density within the POS, the walleye fishery is expanding. “Smallmouth and walleye function fairly similarly,” said Fredericks. “If the walleye become more abundant, does that mean the smallmouth will become less abundant? The pie is only so big. What we do know is when the smallmouth really took off in the Pend Oreille River, we saw a lot fewer northern pikeminnow, because these two species overlap. So, while one of the numbers really increased, their counterpart all but disappeared. In a sense, you replace one that fills the niche with another. You may see that same type of thing happen to a degree with the walleye.” Despite their differences, all these warmwater fish have this in common. Their existence in coldwater habitats causes them to grow slower and live longer, which eventually produces a quality fish. While not discounting the impact of predation and competition of imported species upon natives, where their territories overlap, Fredericks said: “It’s probably fair to say that in the future, warmwater fish will have more of an impact on other warmwater species than on the coldwater species such as trout and kokanee. While there’s little doubt that many of the warmwater species will eat trout and kokanee when they have a chance, they occupy different habitats.” For anglers craving a unique fishing experience, this is the best of both worlds. Check the IFG website for the latest news on fisheries around the state at http://fishandgame. idaho.gov or their fishing planner at http://fishand game.idaho.gov/ifwis/fishingplanner/search/. SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
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Crick Fishing By Bill Love
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PHOTO BY DOUG MARSHAL
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orty years ago I escaped the swamps, marshes and bayous of Louisiana for the clear, cold waters of North Idaho. I discovered that Newton’s Theory of Gravitation not only created resistance in picking up a watermelon in Cajun Country but it also caused water to flow downhill in Idaho’s mountainous terrain. But no one – not even my English teacher, author, blogger and journalist wife, Marianne – could explain why the word creek is pronounced “crick.” Before coming to Idaho, I laughed through Patrick McManus stories describing his boyhood days growing up along Sand Crick just north of Sandpoint. I later listened to Marianne and her brothers tell tall tales of honing their angling skills at the Popsicle Stick Bridge downstream from McManus’ famed Packard Hole. I eagerly awaited creating my own crick fishing stories. My first employer, the U.S. Forest Service, fostered my earliest experiences in crick fishing. I spent the summer of 1974 doing timber sale work in the Smith Creek drainage up near the Canadian border. In the evenings I would wander down from the old CCC Camp 126 to take in the evening hatch on Smith Creek. Ellen, the camp cook, once propositioned me: “I enjoy eating fresh trout, but my husband can’t fish anymore. I’ll fry up some trout for your breakfast if you bring a couple for me.” The next summer the Forest Service assigned me to a hike-in camp in the East Fork of Boulder Creek east of Naples. By midsummer the flow shallowed to not much more than a trickle, but the pools contained brook trout eager for a fly. Weekends back in Sandpoint usually required a visit to the Pend Oreille Sports Shop to restock my fly box and seek advice on how to use them. Slow traffic on First Avenue in those days allowed shop owner Ron Raiha to occasionally use one of the traffic lanes to demonstrate a casting technique or let a customer try out a new fly rod. This likely amused tourists while log truck drivers patiently veered into the oncoming lane allowing for these impromptu fishing clinics. While I enjoyed the area’s small cricks, I felt the urge to cast for the trophy trout in the region’s name-brand streams. Family vacations to Montana always involved sneaking off to rivers featured in fly fishing books and articles. But two unrelated events a few years ago transpired to bring me back to my small streams roots: a sharp spike in gas prices coincided with an unseasonably late melting record snowpack. The calendar showed late-July but the big-name rivers still raged with spring runoff. Why burn five-buck-a-gallon gas and waste SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
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several hours of windshield time only to arrive at a blown-out river? Desperate to wet a fly, one evening after an early dinner I grabbed my crick fishin’ gear and announced to Marianne, “Kiwi and I are heading up Grouse Creek.” Ten miles from home and a half hour later, I had a fish on the line. Not a big fish by any means but a fish nevertheless. After years of neglecting the area’s small streams, I once again found myself hooked. And, I returned. An added bonus to rediscovering crick fishing was learning that one of our border collies – Kiwi – could easily hire out as a fishing guide. Using her inherent instinct, she goes either upstream or downstream as directed and stops at each likely pool or riffle that holds fish. I could send her to a crick with a neophyte with the simple instruction, “Where Kiwi stops, you cast.” Just like four decades earlier, crick fishing once again became my favorite form of angling. I won’t pass up a float trip on the St. Joe or Coeur d’Alene rivers, but they require planning and preparation. Catching the evening hatch on a nearby crick only involves sneaking out the driveway when Marianne isn’t looking. Every fishing story must disclose the what, where, when
and how. So now is the time to name names and that includes cricks, gear and fly patterns. Living in Selle Valley places me a roll cast away from the Pack River and Grouse Creek. Both have good access on Forest Service roads and make for ideal outings on long summer evenings. For a little bit more distance, called a double-haul in fly casting terms, Lightning Creek near Clark Fork and Boulder Creek east of Naples provide good alternatives. For sentimental reasons, I always visit Smith Creek at least once each summer. Unfortunately, the stream reach that I fished almost every evening in 1974 has been significantly altered by a hydro-electric facility. I can list more streams but the true appeal of crick fishing is to discover your own. In doing so, rarely will you encounter another person. What about fishing gear? Well, save your two-handed Spey rod for steelhead on the Clearwater. A 3-weight rod, 7 to 8 feet in length is ideal. Occasionally the snooty “Captain Orvis” comes out in me and I’ll use a bamboo rod, but more often, my 20-buck Eagle Claw Featherlight fiberglass rod, in bright yellow, works just fine. If you are new to the sport, I recommend starting out with a complete fly fishing outfit costing about $150. Fly fishing is all about matching the hatch. Even the insects’ metamorphosis from larvae, pupae to adult becomes extremely important. Fly fishers sometimes carry fly tying kits streamside in order to whip up the exact pattern required to fool a trout. Baloney! Crick fishin’ is not exactly southern Idaho’s Silver Creek where a fly pattern may be refused if its antennae doesn’t contain the right amount of fuzz. In selecting a fly pattern, I often ask myself, when did a size 14 Adams not work for crick fishing? This all-purpose dry fly looks enough like a variety of different insects to convince fish in
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Bill Love fly fishes “Big Rock Pool” on Grouse Creek with the help of his “fishing guide dogs.” PHOTO BY MARIANNE LOVE
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Moll’s Gap, a Bill Love original dry fly. Made with dubbing from sheep’s wool he collected off a fence in Ireland, the Moll’s Gap doesn’t imitate any insect found on local cricks, but it is effective at fooling fish. Love donated 10 of his hand-tied flies to be given away at www. SandpointMagazine. com. Enter to win by July 1! PHOTO BY BILLIE JEAN GERKE
almost any small stream. Because I spend long winter evenings tying a variety of fly patterns, I’ll sometimes tie on a Renegade, Humpy, elk hair caddis or Royal Wulff. That’s not because the Adams didn’t catch fish; I just wanted to try a different fly. Before going any further, you must understand one important aspect of crick fishing in this area. THE FISH ARE SMALL! Really small. A 6-inch trout in many small streams is a trophy fish. My satisfaction comes from not how big the fish measures but, rather, amazement for how a fish of any size can prosper in such an environment. Remember, these wild fish survive ice water temperatures during the winter; floods that move boulders and trees during runoff; and bath-water warm temperatures during the dog days of summer. They enjoy just a few days each year bathing in desirable
Focused on fish As the saying goes, a day spent fishing is one not subtracted from your life. Therefore, fish every day and you will live forever. There is a hearty contingent of fishermen and women locally doing their best to live forever. And, like the objects of their interest, they often school up with their own kind, particularly in two robust groups that promote fishing and the health of our fishing waters. The leader for fisheries on the big lake is the Lake Pend Oreille Idaho Club. It’s a unique group founded in 1947, as the lake was becoming famous for the huge Kamloops trout it was producing. Together with the Bonner County Sportsmen’s Association and the Chamber of Commerce, LPOIC over the years put the lake on the sport fishing map. The club is dedicated “to protect and enhance Lake Pend Oreille and 90
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water temperature and feasting on bugs that drift into their open mouths. And they deserve to stay in these cricks! I can’t remember the last time that I kept a crick fish for eating. I never, ever entertain the notion of keeping a native westslope cutthroat trout, even where legal. Mother Nature put these special fish in our cricks after the glaciers melted and the Ice Age floods drained to the Pacific Ocean. Yes, they deserve to stay there. Brook trout and, for the most part, rainbow trout are now common in our streams, but they were introduced during the last century. My obsession with crick fishing has proved invaluable in my career as a forester. The Idaho Forest Practices Act, the law that loggers and forest landowners must follow, requires special practices to protect fish-bearing streams. While I sometimes call in a fish biologist with electro-fishing equipment to determine fish presence in a small
stream, I oftentimes conduct a “rod and reel survey.” My current passion for crick fishing is to determine just how far upstream fish inhabit a stream. I’m often amazed. For example, I came across a small tributary of Rapid Lightning Creek that contains a remnant of old rail from the Humbird Lumber Company’s railroad logging era. That’s right, a train once went up this draw bottom containing a stream measuring less than a foot wide. I drifted an Adams across a likely looking pool to have a 3-inch cutthroat trout rise to the fly. After releasing this beautiful, native specimen, I reeled in and stood for the longest time, just watching this trickle of water, realizing that I am perhaps the only human who knows for certain about this small, isolated population of cutthroat trout. I remember an old-timer telling me years ago, “I enjoy the crick fishing around here.” Four decades later I am now that old-timer.
its fisheries,” with a primary focus on the
Chapter also works with government agencies
Kamloops and its top food source, the kokanee.
to educate locals and visitors about Lake Pend
After the numbers of kokanee declined precipi-
Oreille’s bellwether bull trout.
tously in the 1980s and ’90s, LPOIC became a
TU stages a number of events, including the
primary advocate for aggressive management
annual Pend Oreille Water Festival, May 21-22
measures over the past decade to restore the
this year, at which local fifth-graders learn
fishery. The gambit has paid off, with kokanee
about their watershed. Also they’ve launched
numbers soaring in the last few years and, not
a new summer Trout and About Festival
coincidentally, more and more anglers boasting
coming in August. Find out more at www.
trophy-size Kams often exceeding 20 pounds.
panhandletu.org.
LPOIC stages major fishing derbies in spring and fall each year, aimed at both raising funds and awareness. Its spring derby happens at the end of April; the fall derby comes around Thanksgiving, this year set for Nov. 21-25 and 27-29. LPOIC welcomes new members; connect online at www.lpoic. org. Focused more on stream fishing and conservation, particularly fly fishing, Trout Unlimited has a hearty presence
here in northern Idaho. TU’s Panhandle SUMMER 2015
Kenny Breeden with a 23.8-pound Kam caught in the LPOIC’s fall fishing derby
SUMMER NIGHTS
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photo essay
SUMMER NIGHTS
Billie Jean Gerke :: Super Moongazer Richard Heinzen :: Cotton Candy on the 4th
Marie-Dominique Verdier :: Home Free
Fiona Hicks :: For Pete’s Sake
photo essay
SUMMER NIGHTS
Don Fisher :: Lights Over Sandpoint Jesse Hart :: Glow
Sandii Mellen :: Towering Sunset Joanne Heaviland :: Festival Encore
photo essay
SUMMER NIGHTS
Jasper Gibson :: Green Bay Galaxy Bill Love :: Grouse Creek Sunset
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SINGLE-LEVEL HOME ON 10 ACRES
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HOME, GUEST APT. ON 5 ACRES
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CRAFTSMAN STYLE HOME 2,800sf single-level on 10 acres w/40x60 shop. Vaulted ceiling, expansive outdoor living areas, covered decks, 4 BR, office, 3 BA & MORE! $649,000 #20140744
UPDATED WATERFRONT home w/a gentle shoreline, sandy beach, lawn, sprinkler system, large dock, yard mature trees! 2nd level is unfinished & could add 500sf to the home. Most furnishings & a boat lift are included. $695,000 #20143067
CRAFTSMAN STYLE 3 bed, 2 baths home. Open living space, rock fireplace, creek & pond feature. Separate 450 sf 1 bed, 1 bath guest apartment over the garage on 5 acres. $469,000 #20150163
DESIRABLE SOURDOUGH LOCATION! 4 BR, 3 BA, kitchen w/pantry, professionally landscaped, sandy beach on water’s edge, sprinkler system, rock accents & mtn views. $875,000 #20142053
WATERFRONT HOME w/lawn to the water’s edge, permitted dock, boat lift, incredible views, concrete patio on the shoreline and almost 1/2 of an acre of land. 4 BR, office, 3 BA & 2-car garage. $679,000 #20151033
2 HOMES WITH LAKE VIEWS
CUSTOM 3,600 SF HOME ON 5 ACRES
NEW HOME IN SANDPOINT
MAIN HOME IS 2089 SF, stone fireplace, 3 bed, 2.5 bath, updated kitchen w/granite counters & pantry. 2nd home is 760 sf, 2 bed, 1 bath. Each has a 2-car attached garage. $599,900 #20150523
OPEN FLOOR PLAN, 4 bed, office, 3 bath, natural light, wood stove, over-sized garage, lower daylight level (1,840 sf) guest suite with kitchenette. Covered deck, privacy with peek-a-boo lake views. $497,000 #20150342
NEW CRAFTSMAN STYLE single-level home with in-floor heat in South Sandpoint’s newest area: Maplewood Village. 3 bed, office, gourmet kitchen, 2 bath, and SO MUCH MORE! $319,500 #20150767
CUSTOM BUILT HOME on a large beautifully treed parcel. 3 or 4 bed, 3 bath, open floor plan with deck off the living room & master bedroom. Landscaped, pavers, sprinkling system, 2-car garage and a 10’x20’ shop/storage bldg. $325,000 #20151193
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New single-level home w/open floor plan in South Sandpoint’s newest area: Maplewood Village. Gourmet kitchen w/pantry, living room w/fireplace, vaulted ceilings. 3 bed, 2 bath & 2-car garage. $308,000 #20143570
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HOME ON 11.95 ACRES W/CREEK
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Real Estate
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Big lake, tiny dwellings Living large in tiny homes on Lake Pend Oreille STORY BY BETH HAWKINS
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boat ride out on Lake Pend Oreille reveals one certain fact: Many lakefront homeowners like to build big. As we gawk in awe at the soaring vaulted ceilings and spacious multi-layered decks of mega-sized homes perched along our shoreline, it’s safe to assume that perhaps the “build small” trend currently sweeping the nation in our post-recession reality doesn’t seem to apply to the majority of lakefront dwellers. And yet, like little gems dotted along the shores, indeed a few new homes and dwellings have embraced the movement toward tiny-sized homes. While they’re definitely the exception rather than the rule, these clever, smart little spaces spark our curiosity: Who lives in them? How big are they? Does everyone have enough room? Alas, here are several examples of minimalist living found on this lovely lake, in various shapes and forms. These are the stories of three small lakefront dwellings, and the people who love them.
Above: Picard Point “jewel box” Below left: FabCabin at Bottle Bay Below: Tepee “starter” at Sunnyside
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Picard Point ‘jewel box’
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huck and Pam Hulbert were thrilled to purchase a prime piece of land several years ago at Picard Point. Basically, the chunk of real estate sticks out into Lake Pend Oreille at the tip of Glengary Bay. The views, nearly 360 degrees, are unreal. While the couple lives just up the road from the property in their full-time home, the empty-nesters wanted to build a little getaway place on the lot so that they could spend time relaxing at the lake. First and foremost, Chuck Hulbert wanted to be respectful to neighbors’ concerns about building on such a prominent, high-profile location, so the couple hired architect Jon Sayler to create a dwelling that would blend into its surroundings as much as possible. “I gave Jon real simple instructions; I wanted it to be as unobtrusive as possible, but I also wanted to maximize the view,” Chuck said. “Within four minutes, he knew what it was going to be.” At 712 square feet, the Picard Point cabin is tiny by lakefront-home standards. Setback requirements guided the cabin’s 10-sided shape, built by Jessie Watson of Golden Rule Construction. “He’s an artist, a crafts102
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man,” Chuck said. “It was a detailed job.” Sayler designed the home to have a living roof – further camouflaging the dwelling’s profile – and conceived using the same grass that was already on the rocks around the property. Made with all-natural materials, the cabin has just one separate space, the bathroom, and features a fully appointed kitchen, fireplace, large patio spaces and a bedroom. “I like that it is as big as it needs to be, and no larger,” said Sayler. “My idea was to create a building that had none of the hallmarks of a house. It was more of a little glass jewel box in the forest.” Because of its unique beauty and craftsman touches, the home was profiled on the Houzz.com website, which features fine home photos and information, and billed as “The SUMMER 2015
Architect Jon Sayler designed the cabin to take advantage of the nearly 360-degree views. Despite its small size, the kitchen is equipped with modern amenities. PHOTOS BY WOODS WHEATCROFT
Ultimate Lakeside Getaway.” Although the Hulberts rarely spend the night at Picard Point, mainly because their year-round home is just a mile up the road, it’s quickly become the couple’s favorite go-to spot. “Most days in the summer, and even in the winter, we go out there and read, talk about things, watch the wildlife,” Chuck said. Sometimes the wildlife can involve acquaintances, as well. Given the cabin’s prime location, many summertime visitors drop by – via the lake – for a getaway of their own. “We have a lot of friends who bring their party boats out, come up, and drink my booze,” he laughed.
TINY HOMES
Real Estate The barn-style doors not only maximize space, they also create privacy in the FabCab’s 550-square-foot interior. PHOTOS BY DOMINIQUE-MARIE VERDIER
Prefab perfection
Smaller still is the 550-square-foot prefabricated cabin on Bottle Bay, perched on a sloped lot with big decks to enjoy the lake. Owners Suzanne and Greg Hatch, whose primary home is north of Seattle, were hoping to build a summer getaway that maximized the lot’s spectacular view and yet minimized maintenance. “Originally, we were going to do the big ol’ thing,” Suzanne Hatch said, “but our two boys left for college, and it hit us – let’s look at small stuff, let’s look at prefabs.”
The couple discovered the FabCab, a prefabricated home that’s designed and engineered ahead of time, and then shipped in pieces to the homesite for assembly. “We figured out what was important to us, and we just started building it,” Suzanne said. Selle Valley Construction was hired to put the cabin together, and they also assisted with the walls, interior work and decks. “It was really cool. All the timber frame pieces arrived, and it was kind of like putting together Tinker Toys,” said Selle Valley Construction co-owner Barb Schriber.
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R _ E Insulated panels were used in the walls, giving the small home top marks for energy efficiency; Schriber and Suzanne worked together on the home’s interior design, incorporating luxurious conveniences such as a steam shower and high-end David Trubridge lighting fixtures into the small space. Suzanne enjoyed adding these pops of color. “I love the kitchen backsplash; it’s blingy,” she said. “And I love the lighting. When the lights are on, it’s just beautiful. They arrived in these itty-bitty boxes. You put them together; it’s art that you create in your home – and that’s the best part because they turned out big and beautiful.” Because of the home’s open layout, clever storage solutions were necessary. A space under the house stores kayaks; the built-in bed has drawers underneath, and an armoire includes drawers and “his” and “hers” hanging closets. The couple didn’t want a yard to maintain, so there’s no landscaping; and guests can stay on a fold-out sofa in the great room. The Hatches are thrilled with their cabin and would advise others to build small as well. “Most people don’t think small is enough, and it truly is,” she said. “You have more time to enjoy the water!”
Tepee ‘starter’
Sandpoint’s Delaina Hawkins and Molly Rickard, friends from high school and now 21 years old, were on a quest last summer to live in a tepee on the lake. Getting away from parents was only part of their motivation: There were beach parties to throw, men to invite out for moonlight swims, a summer’s worth of campfires to build – the usual northern Idaho stuff. Their newfound adventure started on Craigslist, where they found an 18-foot tepee – only to realize the poles were too long for the seller to ship from Montana. The young women embarked on a crash course in pole-making, spending a week in the forest cutting down and stripping the bark off 18 lodgepole pine trees; it was a true testament to the real estate phrase “sweat equity.” At last, the tepee – dubbed “Asasaka” – rose at the shore of Lake Pend Oreille on a family-owned plot on Sunnyside Peninsula. The interior space is just big enough for a bed, refrigerator, food storage, and the requisite fire pit flanked by bohemian-style décor including tiny padded sitting stools and trinkets. Nighttime paddles on the lake quickly replaced evening TV; young men arrived for campfire dinners and those moonlight swims; and without a front door, the tepee’s home security system became a jar of cookies. “We always knew someone had visited the tepee, because they would always take a cookie,” they wrote on their blog. 104
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Delaina Hawkins, right, and Molly Rickard slow cook dinner outside their summer home, a tepee at Sunnyside. PHOTO BY JASPER GIBSON Inset: The pair cut and peeled their own tepee poles. COURTESY PHOTO
Living in a tepee presents its own unique set of maintenance issues. “Our second night at the tepee, we started one of the greatest fires we ever built,” Rickard said. “But a few minutes later, we noticed it was getting really smoky, really fast!” The smoke lingered around the top of the tepee, so they ran outside and tried to open the flaps. “But we knew if we knocked the smoke flap out of the canvas pocket, we were
SUMMER 2015
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Sandpoint Office 316 N. 2nd Avenue, Suite A-1 Sandpoint, Idaho 83864 (208) 255-2244 Fax (208) 255-1771 Toll Free (800) 205-8771
Schweitzer Office In the Lazier Building Sandpoint, Idaho 83864 (208) 263-0427 Fax (208) 265-5192 Toll Free (800) 205-8771
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Residential • Multi-Family • Commercial • Planning • Studios at Schweitzer and Sandpoint Cutting-edge 3D technology/images
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Above: A fire burning from within casts whimsical shadows on the tepee walls. COURTESY PHOTO Right: The view from the tepee, with Hawkins and Rickard on the beach. PHOTO BY JASPER GIBSON
done for ... we didn’t realize that we could have just kicked the fire out.” The two finally got the smoke flaps open, and waited a few minutes for the smoke to pour out. “We call it Lesson No. 2: Constantly be thinking about smoke flaps.” Lesson No. 1 just happens to involve the smoke flaps, as well: Always close the smoke flaps before leaving home. “It was not even 24 hours living in the tepee before we had our first ‘Oh no!’ On our way to Spokane for the evening, we noticed a few raindrops on the windshield. At the same time we gasped, ‘The smoke flaps!’ It was really wet inside when we got back the next day,” they said. The experience has brought the two closer with nature. In fact, they adopted a “no-harm” policy to all four-legged critters and other nighttime crawlers visiting the tepee – although their resolve was pushed to the near-breaking point: “For a month straight, we woke up to the buzzing of one little worker bee around 4:49 a.m. We had a pact going with Mother Nature that if we do no harm, we will receive no harm ... but we weren’t sure how much longer that was going to last.” Let’s end by saying that no bees were harmed, and the policy was honored. Bugs and bees will enjoy freedom at the tepee again this year, as Hawkins and Rickard plan for a second summer of fun – proving that small spaces on Lake Pend Oreille invite big adventure! SUMMER 2015
Real Estate
A tiny mobile house in Portland, Ore.
Tiny home trend
I
f you’ve ever thought of building a smaller, smarter home – you’re not alone. The trend is growing in our post-recession reality across the United States. Tiny home movements, blogs, websites, books – there’s lots of attention, and action, taking place as potential homeowners assess their wants and needs. “A small home has everything you need, without having the encumbrances of what you don’t,” said Barb Schriber, co-owner of Selle Valley Construction, which has built small cottages in Sandpoint and also helped with the FabCab on Bottle Bay. “One thing about being in these smaller homes - the more time you spend in them, the more you realize this is all you need.” Schriber has noticed a trend in smaller homes in our area, particularly among the 20- to 30-something crowd. “They’re more interested in a smaller home and want to spend more time outdoors. What’s fun about it, is whether it’s your permanent residence or your lake house, you get to spend more time living in the home versus cleaning the home.” The idea of a smaller home is more acceptable than ever before, thanks to its ecologically minded smaller footprint. Plus, it sparks good conversations about what you need and what you don’t. “You really have to think about how you use your home – ‘What space can I do without?’ I think by having those kinds of conversations, with your builder, yourself, with your spouse - it creates more thought and a lot of compromises.”
MONARCH MARBLE & GRANITE
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986 BEERS HUMBIRD ROAD: Great Horse Property 4 bed, 3.5 bath 3800 sq. ft. on 20+ acres, plus separate 1100 sq. ft. private log cabin. 2 Master Suites, cook’s dream kitchen, 4 stall Horse Barn and 100 x 200 arena pad. Easy all year access from county road. MLS 20150516 OFFERED AT $799,000
1405 UPPER SAMUELS ROAD: 4 bed 2.5 bath home on nearly 8 acres adj. to National Forest. Custom cabinets, T&G ceilings, many upgrades. Hydronic heating ; Guest /bonus room with Deck. Insulated Concrete Foam const. Horse/storage barns. MLS 20150863 OFFERED AT $354,000
WWW.GRACIOUSHOMEWITHACREAGE.COM Beautifully maintained 3 Bed, 2 bath 2880 sq. ft. home on 15 acres. Large deck, covered porches, gazebo, oversized 2 car garage plus outbuildings. 7 acres of timber, 8 acres for farming or horses. On county road close to Sandpoint. OFFERED AT $424,900
53077 HIGHWAY 95: All year round access to nearly 165 Acres, bordered by USFS land, Multiple springs, 2 yr rnd creeks, pond, trails, and mountain views. Hunters’ paradise with several building sites. Could be subdivided, min 80 acre parcels. MLS 20143539 OFFERED AT $575,000
LOUISE BOOMER , BROKER/OWNER
Castle Realty of North Idaho, LLC Cell: 208 627-8384 Office: 208 265-1150 Fax: 866 845-4018 louise@crnid.com •
www.castlerealtyofnorthidaho.com
PHENOMENAL HOME
Real Estate
Avid cross-country skiers Vicki and Ross Longhini built a home that suits their outdoor-oriented lifestyle
Nordic nirvana
Couple’s love of outdoors exemplified in timber-frame home Story by Beth Hawkins
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Photos by Marie-Dominique Verdier
oss and Vicki Longhini might have been your typical “snowbird” couple a few years ago when they scouted out Sandpoint properties, looking to build a seasonal home to be closer to family, except for one big factor: They happen to love winter. In fact, the couple is passionate about a sport that only happens in winter – Nordic skiing. Vicki is a personal trainer and ski coach; Ross is equally avid and keeps local trails groomed and ready for skiers. Now the Longhinis are happily staying put year-round in their lovely timber frame home, located on a rural stretch of wooded land north of Sandpoint. “You move here, and you get connected,” said Ross Longhini, a business consultant who works from home. The Longhinis, who hail from Wisconsin, are actively involved in the Sandpoint Nordic Club and were instrumental in starting the first youth Nordic program in the area. Their Selle Valley timber-frame home, designed and built by Collin Beggs, complements the couple’s active outdoors-oriented lifestyle. “It’s a functional home,” Ross said. “We wanted to keep it simple and livable.”
Situated at the top of a small bluff, the Longhinis’ country home is fairy-tale perfect in size – not too big, not too small, but just right at approximately 2,000 square feet. On the main floor, an open great room, dining and kitchen area is treated to wide-open views of the Selle Valley and Schweitzer. It’s flanked on one side by the large master bedroom featuring a vaulted ceiling and custom-made furniture that echoes the home’s rustic craftsmanship. The couple purposely created cozy places that make the house welcome and livable, like the upstairs loft where Vicki and Ross like to hide out and watch TV. “It’s where we can flop around with the dogs and just be casual,” Vicki said. The small sauna off the main floor bathroom appeals to Ross’ Scandinavian heritage and soothes the cross-country skiers after an active day. “Other people have hot tubs – we have a sauna,” Ross said. Another nod to northern Idaho “must-haves” is a walkthrough mudroom that’s loaded with custom-built shelving and racks to store coats, hats, mittens, car keys and more. And there’s a walk-in pantry behind a closed door in the
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kitchen that’s a sight to behold for any home chef who clamors for a bit of clutter control. The pantry, filled top to bottom with shelving and counter tops, is Vicki’s favorite feature of the house: “It keeps the kitchen clean without an overload of cabinets.” In the basement, which adds an additional 800 or so square feet, there’s a room dedicated to ski waxing; the Longhinis even host clinics there. It also has a small bedroom for their visiting nephew and a well-chilled storage room filled 110
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with an extensive wine collection. Vicki’s brother is a grape grower in the Walla Walla region, so the wine-loving couple has handy connections. The Longhinis played an active role in all phases of the home’s construction, and builder Collin Beggs said the project was a collaborative process. “They let me have free rein on the timber frame, but they had a hand in all the other design elements.” Ross Longhini, a mechanical engineer by training, was so heavily involved in the design of the home, in fact, that he taught himself how to use 3D CAD software just so he could help plan the kitchen layout. For Beggs, utilizing what he finds in nature is the true inspiration for his timber-frame designs. “I’m really trying to work with what the region provides, and express it through timber framing.” The home builder’s attention to fine craftsmanship is evident in the home’s mortis and tenon joinery, a method that eliminates the need for nails, the naturally curved wood used in the home’s knee braces, and the unconventional “crotch” wood pieces that are used to add a unique spin to the great room’s foyer. “That would be firewood for most people,” said Beggs, describing the unique twisted shapes that give the house added rustic flair. “It’s time-consuming, and the skill
SUMMER 2015
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Perched on a knoll with views of the Selle Valley, the timber frame home features a covered, outdoor living space (inset) facing southwest to the Selkirk Mountains
set is more demanding,” he said, but the attention to detail is all part of what drives Beggs and his home building process. “I’m very devoted to the craft,” Beggs said about his 18-year career building timber frames. He studied medieval carpentry and restoration, and envisions Sandpoint being a hub for craft culture. “Creating a relationship with the forest, the craft and the community … we are building homes that will last hundreds of years.” And Beggs wants his wellmade buildings to remain a priority for the owners. “We expect that people will re-arrange their lives to keep the homes for the long term.” And the Longhinis did just that
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* Manufacturer’s mail-in rebate offer valid for qualifying purchases made 5/5/15 – 6/30/15 from participating dealers in the U.S. only. A qualifying purchase is defined as a purchase of any of the product models set forth above in the quantities set forth above. If you purchase less than the specified quantity, you will not be entitled to a rebate. Offer excludes Nantucket™ Window Shadings, a collection of Silhouette Window Shadings. Rebate will be issued in the form of a prepaid reward card and mailed within 6 weeks of rebate claim receipt. Funds do not expire. Subject to applicable law, a $2.00 monthly fee will be assessed against card balance 7 months after card issuance and each month thereafter. Additional limitations may apply. Ask participating dealer for details and rebate form. © 2015 Hunter Douglas. All rights reserved. All trademarks used herein are the property of Hunter Douglas.
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Sandpoint’s Complete Paint & Wallpaper Store 714 Pine Street Sandpoint, ID 83864 (208)263-5032
Harold & Liz Stephenson
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Paint’s and sundries Custom Framing Wall coverings
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An open loft is perched above the home’s great room, which includes the dining, kitchen and living areas. Inset: The loft is a casual space ideal for watching TV and hanging out with the dogs
– seeking out the simplicity and beauty of a home that’s perfectly suited to their lives. Nothing illustrates that point more for Ross than in the heart of the home – the great room, where a wood stove keeps the entire home heated most days. 112
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Ross chops and stacks all of his own firewood, storing it in an outdoor shed that’s located just steps away from the house and accessed under a covered walkway. “I wanted to be able to go get firewood in my slippers, without shoveling snow,” Ross said. The wood stove, and the fire’s warmth, are a favorite part of the house for Ross. “In the mornings, sitting in the rocking chair with a pot of coffee, the dogs, the view – it’s cozy,” he said. “That’s quintessential country living.”
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Craft is the new Green
We’re starting a revolution of the handmade that goes way beyond green building standards. Which is why our homes pass energy star tests with flying colors.
www.collinbeggs.com San dp oint, idaho
208 . 290. 8120
Your Hometown Mover SandpointMovers.com
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Professional Movers
208.265.5506
1326 Baldy Mt. Rd. • Sandpoint, ID 83864 SUMMER 2015
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www.TSSIR.com NEW! Anytime Info For recorded information or to speak to the listing agent, call 208.449.0071 and use the 5-digit property code.
www.BigIdaho.com Exceptional investment opportunity to own this beautiful log estate featuring over 21,000 SF on 153.41 acres w/Private lake, floor to ceiling fireplaces in great room and adjacent to National Forest Service. Versatile uses include a corporate retreat, private vacation getaway or fulltime residence. $3,495,000 #15601
www.LakePendOreilleLuxuryWaterfront.com Luxury 5810 SF home w/4 bedrooms & 5 baths and panoramic views of water & Monarch Mountain range. Distinctive features including a deluxe master suite, gourmet kitchen, expansive decks, custom winetasting room, private dock, rail system & boatlifts. $2,590,000 #13221
www.La-ZPackRanch.com 75.88 acre ranch estate, on 1.3 miles of the Pack River in the heart of Selle Valley, 4548 SF home featuring quality custom finishes throughout, attached guest quarters, separate guest home, indoor & outdoor riding arenas, luxury stables and more! $2,249,000 #11911
www.LuxurySeasonsPenthouse.com Truly the most luxurious private residence at Seasons, this custom-designed corner, DOUBLE PENTHOUSE features 4255 SF with professionally appointed and extraordinary custom amenities throughout. 2 boat slips & 4 enclosed parking spaces! $1,750,000 #11701
www.SunriseBayLakefront.com Stunning sunrise views over Lake Pend Oreille. Luxury custom home has 2660 SF w/3 bedrooms & 3.25 baths, guesthouse has 440 SF 1 bed & 1 bath, gourmet kitchen, granite counters, expansive outdoor living areas w/artisan landscape & hardscape, deluxe dock w/boatlift & boathouse! $1,675,000 #11421
www.ScenicDaystarRanch.com Breathtaking picturesque pastures, ponds, forests and distant mountain ranges on 101 acres in a central location. Exposed wood beam home features 2838 SF, 3 bedrooms & 2.5 baths, wrap-around decks, professionally landscaped, & large 4 bay shop. Extra 60 acres available. $1,195,000 #15151
www.RedtailHawkView.com Extraordinary custom built home with views overlooking Lake Pend Oreille. Main home has 3210 SF, gourmet kitchen, and 24’ vaulted exposed log ceilings. Guest home is 1100 SF, detached 3 car heated garage, RV garage, equestrian ready barn & pond – minutes to downtown Sandpoint. $1,150,000 #13091
www.HomeAtLakeshore.com Panoramic views from custombuilt waterfront home. 3717 SF w/4 Bedrooms & 4 Baths this home features a great room w/exposed timber beams, rock fireplace, gourmet kitchen, main floor master suite, theater room, family room w/wet bar, views from covered deck, patio & private dock. $1,050,000 #14981
www.LakesideAtBottleBay.com Outstanding 3878 SF waterfront home on the eastern shores of Bottle Bay, offers lakeside living with afternoon sun and Schweitzer Mountain Views. Features 7 Bedrooms & 4 baths, gourmet kitchen, view windows, large decks and a private dock. $895,000 #11721
www.RiverfrontAtBaylorLane.com Custom built riverfront home has gated privacy, paved boat launch, dock and 3+ manicured acres to the water’s edge w/approximately 900’ of shoreline. Single-level home w/2780 SF, 4 bedrooms & 3 baths, granite counter tops in gourmet kitchen & baths. $865,000 #11071
www.LakePendOreilleCondo.com Panoramic and mountain views from this immaculate, 3 bedroom & 2 bath, third floor condo in Seasons at Sandpoint – Sandpoint’s luxury condominium community. Amenities include private lanai, enclosed-heated parking, pool & hot tub, private beach & marina, retreat center, day spa & concierge services. $370,000 #15381
www.ScenicWaterViewHome.com Well-designed custom home with Pend Oreille River & territorial mountain views. 4642 SF w/ 4 bedrooms & 4 baths, upgraded features throughout, beautiful stamped concrete patios & porches, sports court, paved drive, 66X68 shop & gated driveway. Close to Spokane & Sandpoint. $845,000 #12781
B
Cindy Bond Associate Broker, Owner GRI, CRS
H
www.CindyBond.com
elping buyers and sellers see possibilities before they become obvious.
208.255.8360 | cindy.bond@sothebysrealty.com | 200 Main | Sandpoint
© MMVII Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Claude Monet’s “Red Boats at Argenteuil,” used with permission. Sotheby’s International Realty® is a licensed trademark to Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates, Inc. An Equal Opportunity Company. Equal Housing Opportunity. Each Office Is Independently Owned And Operated, Except Offices Owned And Operated By NRT Incorporated. Sandpoint office: 208-263-5101, 200 Main Street, Sandpoint, ID 83864.
DEVELOPMENTS
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n 8 , r !
F , r t .
e 2 , , e
By Beth Hawkins
Investors breathe life into Coldwater campus
C
oldwater Creek is gone, but the expansive campus the bankrupt company left behind is finding new life after investors purchased a 12-acre parcel containing 222,000 square feet of space for $2.5 million in April. The investors – who formed the group L3M, LLC – include Lewis Patrick of Patrick Properties, along with Dr. Michael Genoff, Dr. Loel Fenwick of Percussionaire, and BCL LLC, comprised of three individuals. Back in August 2014, a portion of the campus north of Sandpoint, in Kootenai – which is now leased to Litehouse – was purchased by Kootenai Campus, LLC. The remainder of the property, including a building occupied by Thorne Research, a dietary supplement manufacturer based in Dover, is now owned by L3M, LLC. The investment group will retain Lewis E. Patrick, dba Patrick Properties, to follow through with securing leases. Patrick has indicated that there is strong interest from both within Greater Sandpoint and outside the area. “The property lends itself well to any type of general office, call center, data center or light manufacturing,” Patrick said. With 120,000 square feet to fill with tenants, Patrick has his work cut out for him. “I’m a developer and real estate broker by trade,” said Patrick, who lives in Sandpoint and Scottsdale, Az. “It looked like an opportunity; it’s just a matter of risk. The biggest challenge is finding a tenant and having a building of that size in a small town. That’s the risk of this investment.”
Lewis Patrick and Michelle Sivertson of Patrick Properties in the former Coldwater Creek office building atrium. PHOTO BY BILLIE JEAN GERKE
A bigger risk for Greater Sandpoint might have been having no buyers at all, or investors who wanted to buy the building and mothball it for the future – something that Patrick said was being discussed. “Things that aren’t being used or maintained have a way of deteriorating very fast,” he said. Patrick sees the purchase as a positive sign for Sandpoint. “It’s exciting for the community that local investors are taking it on to get the building leased and operating, for somebody to actively have it marketed to bring jobs into the area,” he said. Currently, he is talking with Laughing Dog Brewing about possibly leasing space for a production facility. Perhaps most exciting is Patrick’s plans for an events center that would encompass the existing auditorium – it seats 220 people – and three breakout rooms. “Our plan is to add 6,000 square feet within the building into an events center with a banquet room and trade show area; the south virtual store (formerly Coldwater Creek’s mock storefront) will be made into an area to set up displays, booths and accommodate smaller trade shows,” he added. And finally, Patrick is hopeful that the existing fitness center – around 30,000 square feet worth – will remain as such. “Our first choice is to operate it as a fitness center; we’ve talked to a local group (SPARC) connected with the YMCA; we’ve also talked to a local individual who is interested in opening it back up as a fitness center.”
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Phone Lewis Patrick at 627-8060 or e-mail lew@patrickproperty. com for more information.
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An artist’s rendering shows what new cottages could look like on five lakeside lots at Sleep’s Cabins. Inset: The original home of William and Frances Sleep will remain as a vacation rental
Change afoot at Sleep’s Cabins By Beth Hawkins
S
leep’s Cabins has been a part of Sandpoint’s history for decades; back in 1936, William F. and Frances Sleep built the cabins in Sagle on Lake Pend Oreille. Since that time, three generations of Sleeps have enjoyed the five original cabins, as well as many visitors who rent the vacation
cabins. Fast-forward to 2015, as Brent and Tawnie Sleep are faced with the dilemma of making major repairs to the nearly 80-year-old buildings. “It was going to cost us more to fix them up than to rebuild,” Tawnie Sleep said. So the couple decided to create new
winTerhAwk esTATe Artfully handcrafted square timber log home on 20 acres backing up to BLM land. home sits atop level bench with long range views & no visible neighbors. great well, established garden, pasture, barn, workshop, fueling station, & shooting range. Back up 17kw generator. Fireplace. $860,000
opportunities for future generations by selling five lakeside lots at the property – three have already been sold. This gives buyers the opportunity to build a lakeside cottage of their own. Cottages can be constructed up to 2,000 square
Pend Oreille river FrOntage 3 bedrooms plus den/office & 3.5 bths. Master suite and second en suite bedroom. Covered porches & patio w/ huge hot tub. Lower level family room, wet-bar/2nd kitchen. Two car garage on main level and second two car garage on lower level. Private covered boat dock. $699,000
Linda Tolley (208)561-1234 Linda.tolley@sothebysrealty.com
www.TSSIR.com
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sPeCTACuLAr kooTenAi river views Panoramic valley and mountain views from this Moyie springs rim lot home on 8.08 acres. single level with 3 bedrooms plus den/ office and 2.5 baths. Large country kitchen and attached two car garage. separate 1 car garage/shop & attached studio guest suite. $449,000
26 ACres wiTh Creek & sPring Fed Ponds Mixture of mature woods surrounding open wild meadows. Privacy with mountain views. Trails throughout and lots of wildlife. southern exposure. easy year round access, near county road & close to town. Power near property line. Close to public lands. $179,000
Sotheby’s International Realty® is a licensed trademark to Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates, Inc. An Equal Opportunity Company. Equal Housing Opportunity. Each Office Is Independently Owned And Operated, Except Offices Owned And Operated By NRT Incorporated. Sandpoint office: 208-263-5101, 200 Main St., Sandpoint, ID 83864.
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feet in size, and homeowners will enjoy the benefits of a common area along with maintenance and landscaping included. So really, it’s all the things people have loved about this special little place of lakeside paradise but with the benefits of home ownership. “It was a way for us not to lose the waterfront and the property,” said
Tawnie Sleep, who emphasizes the fact that several of the beloved buildings on the property won’t be torn down. “We’re still keeping grandma’s original house and our house.” One of the original cabins has already been moved across the street, on Lakeshore Drive, and will still have access to the lake.
Vacationers can rest assured that Sleep’s Cabins will still have rentals. “We will always have cabins to rent,” Tawnie Sleep said. “The original cabin – we call it the ‘Sleep Family Cabin’ – will always be here.” For the Sleeps, the move ensures that this family and community treasure will continue to be a magical place for future generations. The Sleeps plan to continue living at the property well into the future. And while they acknowledge that change can be difficult, they’re happy to know that some things remain the same. “We still have the same amazing view of the lake and mountains, the same docks, the same campfire and beautiful sunsets!”
Real Estate
Brent and Tawnie Sleep are creating opportunities for ownership at Sleep’s Cabins on Lake Pend Oreille. COURTESY PHOTO
See www.SleepsCabins.com.
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Marketwatch: Sellers gain upper hand in real estate market It’s full steam ahead as Sandpoint-area
With the ball in the seller’s court, it
real estate sales continue to move higher –
“What we’ve got right now is a market
doesn’t appear that low-inventory concerns
pushing prices up and prompting potential
that’s a picture of health – the numbers are
are affecting the local building industry
buyers to move quickly and also re-evaluate
so encouraging, they’re the best num-
quite yet. “We could really use new hous-
their budget. The number of properties sold
bers I’ve seen since before the downturn
ing, but Sandpoint doesn’t really embrace
in the last quarter of 2014 and first quarter
in 2008.” Hunter points out that even
new subdivisions,” Barta said. “It’s partly
of 2015 increased by 34 percent over the
Schweitzer Mountain Resort, which had
the geography - we’ve got the lake, the
same period a year prior, and average sales
a disappointing ski season, enjoyed a 20
mountains, the rural confines. We have the
price was up 16 percent.
percent increase in properties sold.
natural forces working against us.”
“The market has accelerated,” said
Barta said that with increasing prices,
Overall, the real estate market’s pace is
Raphael Barta, a Realtor and president of
buyers have to think about stretching their
a positive sign. “It’s good to see it happen-
the Selkirks Association of Realtors. “There’s
budget further. “The goalpost starts moving,”
ing for our community, given that the rest
more of a demand than there is inventory,
he said. Thanks to continued low interest
of the country recovered before us,” Hunter
and the median price is increasing,” he said.
rates, it’s easier than ever to borrow. “You can
said. “There were a lot of people worried
easily stretch another $25,000 on a house.”
about Coldwater Creek’s impact, but it was
Longtime residents may feel like they’ve been here before – a little déjà vu as zoom-
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president of the Multiple Listing Service.
Hunter advises buyers get pre-qualified
minimal.”
ing house prices and high demand create a
for a loan. “You’re going to have to act
real estate bubble that eventually bursts. Is
fast, and working with a Realtor is a huge
baby boomers, and it’s going to continue to
it happening again?
advantage because they’ll know what you’re
have a big impact on the Sandpoint area.
She said a major factor is the influx of
“It doesn’t feel like a bubble; over the
looking for. As the summer goes on, we’re
“This is really an idyllic place when you’re
past two years, we’ve had steady, forward
going to be seeing multiple offer situations
looking to retire.”
progress,” said Cindy Hunter, a Realtor and
like we did in 2005, 2006,” she said.
SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
SUMMER 2015
–Beth Hawkins
Residential Sales By Area
All Areas
Lakefront (Pend Oreille & Priest) 2014
2015
% Inc/Decr
398
532
34
Sold Listings
$104,318,194
$162,272,651
56
Median Price
$199,750
$231,000
Average Sales Price
$262,106
$305,023
Average Days on Market
181
161
2014
2015
69
110
Sold Listings Volume - Sold Listings
2014
2015
27
89
230
Volume - Sold Listings
$12,730,200
$52,739,162
314
16
Median Price
$399,900
$450,000
13
16
Average Sales Price
$471,488
$592,574
-11
Average Days on Market
Sandpoint City Sold Listings Volume - Sold Listings
136
26 -21
Vacant Land Lakefront % Inc/Decr 59
Sold Listings
139
Volume - Sold Listings
$15,271,262
$36,439,500
Median Price
$189,900
$350,000
84
Average Sales Price
$221,322
$331,268
Average Days on Market
144
2014
2014
2015
9
19
% Inc/Decr 111
$1,682,000
$2,949,000
Median Price
$170,000
$118,000
-31
50
Average Sales Price
$186,888
$155,210
-17
120
-17
Average Days on Market
2015
% Inc/Decr
Sandpoint Area Sold Listings
172
% Inc/Decr
327
219
75
-33
Commercial Bonner County 197
241
22
Sold Listings
2014
2015
6
14
% Inc/Decr 133
$55,029,969
$72,879,126
32
Volume - Sold Listings
$4,039,830
$48,533,190
Median Price
$220,000
$350,000
59
Median Price
$207,500
$299,000
44
Average Sales Price
$279,339
$331,268
19
Average Sales Price
$673,305
$255,431
-62
-29
Average Days on Market
Volume - Sold Listings
Average Days on Market
Real Estate
Selkirk Multiple Listing Service Real Estate Market Trends
170
120
315
305
1,101
-3
Based on information from the Selkirk MLSŠ for the period of Oct. 1, 2013, to April 10, 2014, versus the time period for Oct. 1, 2014, to April 10, 2015. Real estate stats for Bonner and Boundary counties. Information deemed reliable but not guaranteed.
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NATIVES AND NEWCOMERS
Natives and Newcomers By Billie Jean Gerke This ever-popular department contrasts and compares the thoughts of two native residents and two relative newcomers. Our natives were able to stay in Sandpoint by finding good jobs, although one of them works primarily out of state. Our newcomers are impressed with the friendliness and, of course, the natural beauty. Consider their perspectives on living here.
NATIVES Jordan Smith
A 2000 Sandpoint High graduate, Jordan Smith, 33, works in geological surveying, mostly in Alaska in summer. The son of Bill Smith and Tari Pardini, he grew up in rural Wrencoe and Sagle. He enjoys numerous outdoor
activities: snowboarding, snowmobiling, split boarding, snowshoeing, fishing, boating, bicycling, long boarding, four-wheeling, dirt biking, camping and kayaking. He and his wife, Brittany, married two years ago in Italy in an area where his ancestors came from. Smith studied at the University of Idaho for two years and worked in carpentry before he started working for Minex Exploration and WestMountain Gold.
How do you make the most of summer here?
I do everything I can when we have good weather since I’m gone for most of the summer. I try to do all my summer sports in the two weeks I’m back – kayaking, swimming, fishing and camping. I love all summer activities. I can just pass my time by hiking, biking, anything this area has to offer, and it offers everything. I can leave my house and be on a bike path in two seconds, or hike up this mountain (behind my house) right now or go across the street to the river and be in my boat, or go walk the dogs at Dover Bay. What’s your favorite event here and why?
Lost in the ’50s. That’s the one event that, growing up, I went to every year. If it was raining or whatever, we would always go. Even if we didn’t make it to the parade, we would always go the next day and see the cars and eat food down there. I really enjoy it, and I go to it every year. What are the greatest challenges facing Sandpoint?
For normal working people who have grown up here, unless you come from money, it’s harder to find a job that supports you in a way to feel like you’re living well and not just getting by, like you’re actually enjoying this area and not just struggling to make rent. My income, even though I live here, comes from someplace else. I personally try to support local businesses as much as possible. What clubs or organizations would you recommend to a friend?
PHOTO BY MARIE-DOMINIQUE VERDIER
SUMMER 2015
I’m not a member of any, but there are certain things that are important and help the community, and a big one is the animal shelter. I really love that they’re a non-euthanization place, and anybody that can volunteer there helps out a lot, even if it’s just walking dogs. The new disc golf course is a really neat thing that I wish was around SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
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NATIVES AND NEWCOMERS
accepting
our market is
100% locally grown & made Saturdays 9:00am to 1:00pm Wednesdays 3:00pm to 5:30pm Farmin Park 3rd & Oak Downtown Sandpoint
sandpointfarmersmarket.com
when I was a kid. There’s a lot of people that don’t have money who invest their time, which is as good as money or more, and that’s what makes this town what it really is and gives it its roots.
growing up here and want to raise my children here as well. We have it all here, and it’s the most beautiful place I’ve ever seen. Even on vacations, I get homesick and want to be here.
Ever been tempted to relocate? If so, why?
How did your family wind up here?
The farther I go from Sandpoint (for work), the more I want to go back to Sandpoint. The only reason I’ve been slightly tempted have been finances. I don’t think I could ever really leave Sandpoint for good. If I had to work at Burger King to be able to live here and stay here, that is better than making a million dollars in some other city, because I’m living where I love and enjoy everything about this area. I loved
My parents came to visit some friends here in Sandpoint in the late ’70s and fell in love with it. They’re from Northern California (Ukiah). They decided they were moving here, went back to California, got the house ready to sell and sold the house. My mom was pregnant with my sister when they moved here. They bought property and built a log house up Wrencoe Loop Road, and later they built another house in Sagle.
Scott Finney
A UPS employee for 27 years, Scott Finney, 53, drives the Priest Lake route every day and returns home overlooking Sand Creek, just a stone’s throw from where he grew up. His parents, Sharon and Manny Finney, live across the creek on Shadow Belle Ranch north of Sandpoint. Scott and his wife, Tracie, raised three sons, who have all graduated from Boise State University. The 1980 Sandpoint High graduate loves to snowmobile, fish, hunt, hike, camp in their vintage motor home and get firewood (yes, that’s right, firewood!). He’s also pretty handy at projPHOTO BY BILLIE JEAN GERKE ects around the house, such as building The LongBranch party area in their shop, where they host weddings, birthdays, prom dinners and other special events. How do you make the most of summer here?
By planning ahead and getting all of our “honey-dos” taken care of, we are free to do the things we like to do, get out and camp, fish Pend Oreille, hike to a mountain lake or go pick at our favorite huckleberry spot. What’s your favorite event here and why?
It’s hard to pick one because every year they are just a little different. Lost in the ’50s is always a fun time. It’s a beautiful time of year, there are lots of cool cars, and Sandpoint is full of people having fun.
What are the greatest challenges facing Sandpoint? A lack of good-paying jobs for young people who would like to move back and stay here. I feel fortunate that I have a good-paying job so that I can live here and feel safe. Selfishly, 122
SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
SUMMER 2015
NATIVES AND NEWCOMERS I do not want to see Sandpoint grow. There are opportunities if you prepare, such as going to college to be a lawyer, doctor, nurse, etc. You need to have a plan and be willing to work hard. Tracie works as a personal assistant for a couple who only stays here in the summer. We do extra jobs to be able to have the lifestyle that we love. I think there are a lot of Sandpoint folks who do the same thing.
FesTival aTsandpoinT The
augusT 6 - 16, 2015
What clubs or organizations would you recommend to a friend? There are so many great organizations for people of any age to be a part of in Sandpoint. Growing up here, we were always doing some family-oriented activities that didn’t involve any clubs. I am not a club or organization person, but I can see the benefit.
How did your family wind up here?
My grandparents moved here from Wyoming, where they started their family and struggled through hardships. They had two sections of land there that was not joined, and it was difficult to make a living with the cattle. When they left, my grandfather wrote on the wall of the house “Going to seek a more abundant life.” He drove west in a one-ton truck with five kids and his wife. As he was coming by Lake Pend Oreille, he said, “Look at all that water!” They made Sandpoint their home and settled on 40 acres on North Boyer.
Our Stellar Summer Line-up Includes: Arlo Guthrie • Ziggy Marley • Vince Gill • Lake Street Dive Trampled by Turtles • The Devil Makes Three • Wilco The Spokane Symphony with Vadim Neselovski To order tickets or for more information visit us at:
FestivalAtSandpoint.com or call: (208) 265-4554
Because
life more to there’s
than bad
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A News
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MAGAZIN
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Public ir trade of Is this a fa r North Idaho? fo s cide?tting nd la o will deGe
and up
Ever been tempted to relocate? If so, why? You don’t really realize how great of a place you live until you go somewhere else, and it’s not pristine, you wait in lines for everything, and get stuck in traffic. You come home and appreciate your six-minute commute, beautiful, crystal-clear water and clean air. Early in our marriage the job situation was looking pretty bleak. I had worked at Riley Creek, built spec houses with my dad and even done concrete work up in Bonners at the Budweiser facility. We had a friend doing framing work in Seattle, and we were all set to make the move. I got a call from UPS, where I had been doing seasonal work, with an offer of full-time work. We were able to stay and raise our family here.
Because there’s more to life than
and wh
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A News MAGAZINE Worth Wading
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rts give r’s trip repo Local hike look at area trails nd a year-rou
Osprey l Remode See story 8 on page
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spt mag a.indd 1
SUMMER 2015
10/17/2010 11:11:04 PM
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NATIVES AND NEWCOMERS Stay with us in Sandpoint ... ... the rest is easy
NEWCOMERS Brendan Naples
Inn Features:
• Silverwood Packages • Close to Restaurants • Music Festivals • Fishing Derby • Downtown Shopping
• Summer Sampler • Farmers Market • Chafe 150 • Long Bridge Swim • Scenic 1/2 Marathon • Octoberfest
A U.S. Forest Service fisheries biologist, Brendan Naples, 35, commutes to the Cabinet Ranger District in Trout Creek, Mont. Raised in northeast Ohio, Naples says he was destined to come out West because of his love for the outdoors. He and his wife, Amy, moved to Sandpoint in November 2014, after living in Montana briefly following a few years in southeast Alaska. They have three children, including a twin girl and boy born in December and a 2-year-old daughter. A singer/songwriter who plays guitar, he loves getting outside and being active, playing music, and bicycling – both mountain and road riding. How do you make the most of summer here?
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We can just feel the building energy of a great Sandpoint summer. We just know it’s going to be phenomenal with the lake and all the music and everything
PHOTO BY BILLIE JEAN GERKE
going on. There’s such a buzz around here as far as positive things to do. We predict we’ll be at City Beach a lot with the kids. We’re going to go swimming and biking a lot and see and create as much music as we can. What’s your favorite event here and why?
I imagine it’s going to be either the Festival (at Sandpoint) or one of the bike rides, such as the CHAFE. Our winter was spent hunkered down with the twins because they were just born in December.
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NATIVES AND NEWCOMERS
What are the greatest challenges facing Sandpoint?
I am concerned about the economy with Coldwater Creek going out and retaining residents with good-paying jobs. It trickles through the whole economy. Rent is high, in my opinion. To live in a viable house for your family is a good chunk of change. It’s almost prohibitive for a middle-class family.
munity. There’s lots to do. This is a vast improvement in weather for us (compared to southeast Alaska). There’s so much less rain here. For us, it’s a sunny place. We were living pretty remotely in a village in southeast Alaska on Prince of Wales Island. We had a tiny little grocery store and a gas station, and that was it. How does it compare to other places you’ve lived?
What clubs or organizations would you recommend to a friend?
I’ve never lived in a place that has a combination of all these things I enjoy I went to one meeting of the Pend Oreille in life and is really easily accessible. Pedalers. I’m interested in getting more You’ve got an arts community, outinvolved there and learning more about doors community, cycling and a fitness the trail they’re going to be putting in atmosphere, the lake. It’s a little bit of from Schweitzer to the Mickinnick Trail all these great things in life put in one (the Watershed Crest Trail). It seems small, tiny little town. We were pleaslike a really active, community-based antly surprised when we moved here group improving the lifestyle of people in at how easy it was to meet people, and Sandpoint who enjoy the outdoors. how welcoming people are and open to exchanging phone numbers and getting How did you adjust to living here? together. We didn’t KPND haveBillboard to adjustX6(7.125 much.XWe feelcopy.pdf 4.75) 1 4/17/13 10:50 AM like we fit right in. People are friendly and it seems like a welcoming com-
Laura Seidel
Born and raised on the East Coast, Laura Seidel was introduced by her father to hiking and camping as a toddler, via the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina. Family travel brought her to the Pacific Northwest with a dream of relocation one day. Her husband’s engineering background drove them to build a log cabin home, of which he cut and laid every log. Living in Sagle overlooking Glengary Bay, she plans to resume private cooking instruction for those seeking a gluten-free lifestyle. She and her husband, Bruce, look forward to participating in the Inventors Association of Idaho, coordinated by neighbor Pam Bird, and supporting the sustainable food community of Sagle and Sandpoint. How do you make the most of summer here?
For the past two summers, our primary focus has been building our home. My
Celebrating 35 years of live local radio C
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Broadcasting in Sandpoint at FM 106.7 And in digital HD
Streaming 24/7 live on Facebook SUMMER 2015
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husband and I love sailing on the lake, and the photography opportunities are endless. We try to walk daily with our dogs and breathe in the natural beauty in which we live. The highlight is sharing our new home with our new friends while enjoying great food and local wine. What’s your favorite event here and why?
Although it is hard to choose, the fireworks at Garfield Bay have been our favorite so far. The show is sponsored by the locals and is one of the best fireworks displays that we have ever experienced. What are the greatest challenges facing Sandpoint?
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From a newcomer’s perspective, it appears to be controlled but sustained growth. The area is truly pristine and should be protected. It is blessed with many creative entrepreneurs, but they seem to come and go. As much as rapid growth would be disastrous, the inability for the local service providers to earn a consistent living and thereby support their fellow entrepreneurs is a very challenging situation. What clubs or organizations would you recommend to a friend?
The Panida Theater has caught my attention and will continue to be of interest to me. The outdoor options are unlimited and should offer something to
appeal to everyone. How did you adjust to living here?
We began visiting in the year of 2010 and bought our property the following year. Each year we stayed a little longer and rented a house in a different area. We spent the summers up on Schweitzer Mountain hiking and exploring and the remainder of each year in a little house on the lake, on Bottle Bay Road. This allowed us to experience the area as a local would and to fall in love with Sandpoint and Sagle. Adjusting has been made easier by our welcoming neighbors and new friends. We have met many lovely folks so far. How does it compare to other places you’ve lived?
My husband and I have traveled and lived all over the United States. No other place has offered the same feelings of peace and tranquility that we have experienced here. The beauty of Lake Pend Oreille offers views long since bought up in other geographies. The area offers a rare combination of convenience and yet still rugged remoteness. The wildlife is uniquely available to be experienced daily. We love the pace and feel that this offers opportunities to grow and age gracefully. We feel truly blessed to have been able to build our forever home in such a magnificent area. 208.255.4496
New/Used Bikes • Rentals Repairs • Accessories and More! 3rd & Pine • Sandpoint, ID GreasyFingersBikes.com SUMMER 2015
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Meeting Rooms
x
Kitchen
Pool on site
x
Bar or Lounge
Spa or Sauna
4
Restaurant
No. of Units
Lodging Archer Vacation Condos
x
Beautiful 3-bedroom, 2-bath waterfront condos on Lake Pend Oreille in Hope. Discount ski and golf tickets available. See ad, page 37. www.10kVacationRentals.com/sandpoint/
877-982-2954 / drarchers@msn.com
Best Western Edgewater Resort
54
x
x
x
x
300
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
19
x
x
x
x
x
Waterfront bungalows at beautiful Dover Bay in Marina Village. Fully furnished with lake and mountain views. Fitness center, marina and hiking/biking trails. See ads, page 50. www.DoverBayBungalows.com
208-263-3083
GuestHouse Lodge
60
x
Free breakfast with waffles, 24-hour hot tub, free wireless Internet. Family suites. At the base of Schweitzer Mountain, two miles from Lake Pend Oreille.
208-263-2210
Holiday Inn Express
83
x
x
68
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
25
x
250
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
9
x
x
Great deals on exclusive Schweitzer ski-in/out condos and waterfront vacation cabins. Book your perfect Idaho vacation online 24/7. www.NorthridgeVacationRentals.com
877-667-8409 or 208-290-6847
Pend Oreille Shores Resort
50
x
x
x
x
62
x
x
x
x
x
75
x
x
167
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
4
x
On beautiful Lakeshore Drive. Sleep’s Cabins consists of four log bungalows decorated with original furnishings and collectibles. See ad, page 122. www.SleepsCabins.com
208-255-2122 or 866-302-2122
Talus Rock Retreat
6
x
7
x
x
x
x
x
Camping cabin, beach tepee, houses and RV sites on Lake Pend Oreille and in the Selle Valley. Horse/dog friendly. Private but close to town. www.TwinCedarsSandpoint.com and on Facebook.
208-920-1910
Western Pleasure Guest Ranch
9
x
x
x
208-265-0257 or 800-831-8810
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Private cabins sleep 2-8. Lodge rooms with private baths, rec room, horseback riding and meals available. See ad, page 53. www.WesternPleasureRanch.com
208-263-9066
White Pine Lodge
Experience an extraordinary Idaho Bed and Breakfast escape. One mile from Sandpoint. www. TalusRockRetreat.com
208-255-8458
Twin Cedars
Mountain accommodations, stay-and-play packages. Spectacular mountain and lake views. Outdoor heated pool and hot tubs. See ad, page 147. www.Schweitzer.com
208-265-0257 or 800-831-8810
Sleep’s Cabins
75 luxury homes and condos in Sandpoint and on the lake. First-class properties at affordable rates. Plan your perfect vacation. Boat rentals, tee times. See ad, page 31. www.SandpointVacationRentals.com
208-263-7570 or 866-263-7570
Selkirk Lodge
Indoor pool and hot tub. Close to downtown Sandpoint. 5th Avenue Restaurant and Mitzy’s Lounge on property. Kids stay and eat free. www.SandpointHotels.com
208-263-2111 or 866-519-7683
Sandpoint Vacation Rentals
Fully furnished condos and on-site athletic club on Lake Pend Oreille. Stay and play packages. See ad, page 64. www.POSResort.com
208-264-5828
Sandpoint Quality Inn
Northern Quest Resort & Casino is the Inland Northwest’s only AAA-rated 4-Diamond casino resort. Complimentary Wi-Fi, and valet and overnight parking. See ad, page 68. www.NorthernQuest.com
509-242-7000
Northridge Vacation Rentals
Accommodations for weddings, retreats and banquets. Lakeside with swimming and docks. Views of lake and mountains for an unforgettable Idaho vacation. www.LodgeAtSandpoint.com
208-263-2211
Northern Quest Casino
Downtown location, high-speed Internet. Free breakfast, themed spa suites. Silverwood, ski and golf packages. Kids stay free. See ad, page 124. www.Hotels-West.com
208-263-9581 or 800-282-0660
Lodge at Sandpoint
The newest hotel in Greater Sandpoint. 100 percent smoke-free. The Ponderay location is at the base of Schweitzer Mountain next to the new location of Sweet Lou’s. See ad, page 49. www.HIExpress.com
208-255-4500 / Fax 208-255-4502
La Quinta Inn
From rustic elegance or Manhattan chic, you’ll find a room that suits you along with a casino that boasts the area’s most machines, and the most winners. See ad, page 97. CdACasino.com
800-523-2464
Dover Bay Bungalows
Downtown Sandpoint on the lake. Indoor pool, sauna, fitness room, hot tub. All rooms with lake view. Dine at Trinity at City Beach. Also 22-site RV park. www.SandpointHotels.com
208-263-3194 or 800-635-2534
Coeur d’Alene Casino
THE DECK AT WESTERN PLEASURE GUEST RANCH
50
x
x
x
x
x
x
New accommodations, stay-and-play packages. Spectacular mountain and lake views. Outdoor hot tubs, access to heated pool. See ad, page 147. www.Schweitzer.com
SUMMER 2015
Lodging Guide
Lodging
EATS & drinks with Beth Hawkins
Dinner ahoy! Boating to dinner a popular pastime
T
here aren’t many places in the United States where you can “boat to dinner.” But luckily for us here in Sandpoint, it’s practically a summer tradition for many families to hop in the boat and head out to a favorite restaurant on the lake. If the timing’s right, it’s just as fun to enjoy a moonlit boat ride back home afterwards! Ivano’s del Lago at the Beyond Hope Resort in Hope is a top choice for many dining boaters because of its delicious Mediterranean-themed summer cuisine and spectacular outdoor patio that faces west toward Lake Pend Oreille. “We have the most beautiful sunsets on the lake,” said owner Jim Lippi, who estimates that about 75 percent of Ivano’s del Lago’s summer business arrives via boat. The restaurant has 10 dedicated boat slips for diners, and there’s overnight moorage available as well. Popular summer dishes include the grilled rib steak, and a Mediterranean style Pesce al Cartoccio with rockfish, a curry-based sauce and
The deck at Ivano’s del Lago faces west on Lake Pend Oreille. COURTESY PHOTO
clams. Reservations during the months of July and August are highly recommended. Float your boat to The Floating Restaurant, 47392 Highway 200 in Hope, and check out the all-new remodel that wrapped up just in time for this summer’s busy season. “We floated the old restaurant out and started fresh,” said owner Elissa Robbins. “We now have three distinct areas to sit – indoors, outside under the covered patio, and out on the open deck.” Robbins is excited about the new indoor dining area, and says it’s a big improvement with vaulted ceilings and expansive new windows. “It’s really pretty.” There will still be plenty of designated boat parking next to the restaurant, so boaters will still find that relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. Robbins also happens to be the chef at The Floating Restaurant and has concocted some new menu items for summer: “My favorite is an appetizer with roasted sweet peppers, chorizo sausage and Srirachi, which is all the rage. It’s killer!” She’s rolling out some SUMMER 2015
new dinner fare, as well, including a Buffalo Burgundy dish with gnocchi, and seared scallops with lobster ravioli. Sweet Lou’s, 46624 Highway 200 in Hope, is welcoming boaters this summer after Holiday Shores spent the winter working on dock repairs. “It’s now easier to pull in your boat with lots of free parking space,” said co-owner Meggie Foust. Sweet Lou’s offers deck seating and lawn seating, which is great for those with dogs in tow. “And you can’t beat the sunset; there’s a full view from the deck,” Foust said. New summer menu items that lend themselves to lakeside dining include a calamari appetizer served with cilantro lime aioli, a new mahi salad that’s topped with mango pineapple salsa, and a new crab mac and cheese featuring a Mac & Jack’s beer cheese sauce. All items are available at Sweet Lou’s in Ponderay on Highway 95 North, as well. Justin Dick, owner of Trinity at City Beach, 58 Bridge St., was always aware that the popular lakeside restaurant saw its fair share of boat traffic but never knew how much until the City SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
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& Drinks Eats
Bangkok on Second AUTHENTIC THAI FOOD
Sandpoint’s Best Thai Food • Peanut sauces made in-house • 6 different Thai curry • Gluten-free & Vegetarian • Wine and beer • Take-out available
Eat in or take out
208-265-4149 • 202 N. 2nd Ave.
of Sandpoint replaced old docks with newer docks last year. They’re a bit farther away from Trinity than the old ones, and customers who had to trek the distance from boat to dock weren’t shy about voicing their concerns. Dick said, “It really opened my eyes to how large our boating customer base is.” But the payoff is worth it: “The docks are nice, new and safe, and it’s really not too far of a walk from the finger closest to the breakwater.” Scrumptious food rewards those extra steps, as Dick rolls out several new dinner entrees this summer including a New Zealand rack of lamb that’s grilled and then served on roasted garlic rosemary burgundy demi glace, drizzled with roasted shallot-mint infused oil. Seafood lovers will have to try the halibut en papillote – a fresh halibut fillet with lemon-chive-sherry butter, julienned summer squash and shallots that’s wrapped in parchment paper and baked. Summer eating at its finest! Directly across from Sandpoint’s
shores, Forty-One South and Shoga Sushi, 41 Lakeshore Dr. in Sagle, are renowned for their boating accessibility – especially now that the boat dock space has expanded to accommodate more boats. Owner Cassandra Cayson said the additional parking is welcome during the restaurants’ busy summer season. “This is definitely where everyone wants to be in the summer, out on the patio enjoying the sunset,” she said. New chef Matt Curmi is refreshing
Sweet Lou’s in Hope offers patio seating with spectacular views across the lake. COURTESY PHOTO
NEWLY EXPANDED STORE & DINING AREA
Hours:
M-F 8:30-5:30 Join us on
208-263-9446 FRESH BAKED GOODS
Daily
NEW BERLIN GARDENS
Furniture Collection
BEST SANDWICHES
In Sandpoint
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Breads Scones Pastries Cookies Pies Cinnamon Rolls Coffee Teas Canned Goods Spices Beans Rice Pasta Flour Nuts Dried Fruit Christian Books Housewares
A social hot spot, Trinity at City Beach offers intown convenience. COURTESY PHOTO
Dinner served 7 nights a week Corner of First and Pine
& Drinks
the menu and plans to put the restaurant’s garden to good use. And diners will be happy to know their go-to favorites will still be there – the smoked fillet and the crab bisque. “And we always have lots of fresh specials in the summer.” Forty-One South has a cocktail deck, as well, for those who just want to enjoy a cocktail and maybe a light appetizer; Shoga Sushi next door also has outdoor seating. Steer the boat west from Sandpoint on the Pend Oreille River and you’ll come across a longtime local favorite for casual dining: the DISH at Dover Bay, 651 Lakeshore Ave. in Dover. The dock that extends directly out from the restaurant is public, making it convenient for navigating a boat into shore. “The dock literally walks right up to our deck,” said owner Gary Peitz. For fresh summer fare, the restaurant is adding rotisserie meats to the menu including a double-boned pork chop, beef tri-tip and huli huli chicken (a Hawaiian preparation). Peitz adds that a longtime favorite – the mahi mahi tacos accompanied by the DISH’s original avocado fries – really captures that “summertime boating” vibe. But it’s the tried-and-true buffalo meatloaf that’s apparently most coveted; so much so
Serving Sandpoint for over 31 years
Eats
g an dinin i l a t I tions Fine 3 Loca w o N
208-263-0211
that Peitz has a difficult time avoiding avid meatloaf fans on the sidewalks during the winter months, when DISH doesn’t serve dinner. “People accost me, probably five times a week, saying ‘When are you opening? I need my meatloaf.’ ” The bar serves an array of fun specialty cocktails including a new blood orange vodka martini and the 20-ounce DISH Bloody Mary – a meal in and of itself with Peppar vodka, a “garden of vegetables” and three skewered prawns.
www.IvanosSandpoint.com WATERFRONT DINING
Join us at Beyond Hope all Summer 208 264-5221
208.255.2100 •105 S. First Ave.
WATERFRONT www.sweetlousidaho.com
Full Bar Family Friendly Outdoor Seating Boat Parking
Hope, Idaho » Holiday Shores Marina 46624 Hwy 200 »
208. 264.5999
Sweet Lou says, “come hungry, stay late, eat well.”
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Chef Q&A with Aleya Hutchens and Stefhanie Royer
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t’s almost destiny that Sandpoint native Aleya Hutchens, 26, finds herself concocting inventive cuisine inside the Spuds Waterfront Grill kitchen. That’s because while growing up, Hutchens lived in the apartment below the restaurant with her dad – she would come up to Spuds for a brownie and also worked there one summer as a teen. After traveling for six years to places as far away as Georgia, Hutchens was ready to come home. “I found my way back,” she said, and has been working at Spuds ever since. Stefhanie Royer, 42, is a relatively new arrival to Sandpoint, having moved here a year ago from Los Angeles. She attended culinary school in Santa Monica and also worked with a master chef before opening her own Latin-infused restaurant in North Hollywood. Seeking a change of lifestyle, she applied for the chef position at Pend d’Oreille Winery’s Bistro Rouge: “We weren’t planning on moving to Idaho, but I wanted to get out of the big city and get my hands in the dirt.”
Eats
& Drinks
Serving Sandpoint
ALEYA HUTCHENS
132
PHOTOS BY BETH HAWKINS
STEFHANIE ROYER
What influenced your love of cooking?
I taught myself how to cook. When I was a kid, I would watch cooking shows instead of cartoons – there was this one crazy show in the ‘90s called “Yan Can Cook.” And I also worked in the restaurant industry while I was traveling. Both my parents are artists, and they’ve told me that this is my art.
My grandmother was my biggest inspiration. She worked at Westinghouse and knew all about appliances and how to work a range. … She taught me everything, how to melt cheese, she cooked everything from scratch. I go home and bake. I’ve always found peace in that.
What’s your dream ingredient?
Corn tortillas. I love to make any variation of anything that you can put in a tortilla. I just made a bacon blueberry quesadilla and everyone loved it.
Cumin. I love its earthiness. It can be used in absolutely any cuisine; it’s very flexible.
Food trends that you like/dislike?
I like to use organic, local ingredients from the farmers market. I like thinking outside of the box, like making chocolate cake with basil.
The fads make it difficult for chefs, the paleo diet, the gluten-free fad. Idaho is about six months to one year behind the trends, but I like to showcase new things here.
What are your hobbies and interests?
Anything outside. I grew up skiing. I’m also an Olympic weightlifter.
Hiking and gardening – anything that connects me with the Earth. It provides menu inspiration!
Any alternate career interests?
No, this is it. When I was a kid, I always wanted to own a limousine ice cream business. Maybe an Olympic weightlifting coach.
Tour the world, work in Africa and teach people how to plant and cook food. No matter what, food would be involved in what I do.
Any advice for future chefs?
Passion. We have young people who work here, and I see two different types – those who get through the day and those who have a passion for what they’re doing. I put love into my food.
Go in with an open mind, and use the ability to learn all you can while on the job. Don’t get into this if you don’t have gumption, especially women. And you won’t sleep much.
SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
SUMMER 2015
come in and get a big bowl of noodles for around $10,” Solis said. “The broths that go with it are great; they take about 12 to 18 hours and are slow-cooked overnight.” The vision for Cedar Street Bridge’s open air market feel is enhanced by the new décor featuring Asian umbrellas and a handmade sushi bar made by Solis himself that lights up from beneath. Finally, Solis is opening the Cedar Street Pub and Fish Market this summer, as well. It will feature delicious, fresh fare including the signature Buffalo Bacon Burger that’s half bacon, half ground buffalo burger, plus fish ‘n’ chips featuring fresh fish flown in from Alaska. The market will allow customers to pick up fresh fish to take home and cook, as well. Solis said the new restaurants will allow shoppers a great place to enjoy some relaxation, or just to drop off an antsy spouse. “We’ll have TVs on all the walls, so husbands can come in and watch TV while their wives shop.”
SUMMER 2015
& Drinks
Prepare for a culinary infusion of epic proportions (well, at least by Sandpoint standards) when a flurry of ethnic and regional restaurants, along with a new wine bar, open on the Cedar Street Bridge, 334 N. First Ave., this summer. The first to have already opened (in early May) is Kyoko, a new sushi restaurant headed up by Chef Junior Solis. It’s located in the center of the bridge and features a mouthwatering array of sushi that’s made to order. “We have amazingly fresh fish, flown in from Hawaii,” said Solis, who formerly owned another sushi restaurant in Sandpoint before working as a restaurant consultant. “I learned some great new stuff,” he said, and is ready to showcase that culinary expertise with more Cedar Street ventures, as well. Solis is opening The Noodle House in mid-June right next door to Kyoko, serving the popular Vietnamese noodle bowls – choose from pho, ramen or udon noodles along with meats and vegetables. “You can
Eats
Discover a new world of cuisine at Cedar Street Bridge
Kyoko, a new sushi restaurant, on the Cedar Street Bridge
A new wine bar, The Loft, is also arriving this summer upstairs in the Cedar Street Bridge, so keep an eye on that addition to the fast-changing dining scene! And as always, the Cedar Street Bistro at the entrance to the Bridge is serving their delicious grilled sandwiches, artisan pizzas and specialty coffee drinks. Don’t forget they also happen to serve an Italian gelato (ice cream) that’s touted by customers as “best in the Northwest!”
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Small House Winery tasting success
A
s Sandpoint’s wine scene continues to evolve, so, too, does its newest winery: Small House Winery. Owner Patrick Werry, who founded the winery with Jon Harding, has been creating handcrafted wines for seven years and recently reaped the rewards of all that hard work when Small House’s signature Red Blend won the silver award at this year’s San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. The Malbec also won a silver at the Northwest Wine Competition. The accolades are well deserved for the winemaker, who is a stickler on quality. “As we’re pressing, we’re constantly tasting,” Werry said. “We have eight varietals, but we’re playing with a lot of different things and trying to narrow it down.” It all comes down to the grapes for Werry, who sources the grapes from growers in the Walla
Walla, Prosser and Yakima regions of Washington. Just like producing a fine wine, it takes time to secure good relationships with grape growers. “They want their grapes to be sold to the right people.” Sales at Small House Winery are soaring through the roof – literally. In 2014, it sold 1,250 cases of wine; this year, the winery expects to sell 2,000 cases. Growth is putting a tight squeeze on the winery’s building capacity, and barrels are stacked high along one wall to accommodate increasing production. But a cadre of volunteers and friends still find room to come in and help with the bottling on occasion.
Winemaker Patrick Werry and production assistant Samantha Carston. COURTESY PHOTO
This summer, Small House Winery is throwing open the overhead garage doors and welcoming the public to enjoy tastings on the outdoor patio every Saturday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tasters will be well rewarded for their visit, as they’ll get to try wines that aren’t available elsewhere and have a chance to meet the winemaker. Tasting is $5 and can be applied toward purchases (discounted 10 percent during the tasting). Small House Winery is located at 1636 Baldy Park Dr.; look for the signs on Baldy Road.
Serving Dinner 7 nights a week Reservations Recommended
TasTing room
saturday 11 to 6 and by appointment
208.290.2016 1636 baldy park drive
208.265.2000 41 Lakeshore Drive Sagle www.41SouthSandpoint.com
sandpoint
www.smallhousewinery.com
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Eats
New noshes ’round town
& Drinks
ake new friends, but keep the old – same can be said about restaurants and drinking establishments around town. Your favorites are still there, but it’s fun to try new places all the same. Food trucks are all the rage, so discover a whole convoy at the Oak Street Food Court, directly across from Farmin Park at 317 Oak St. There’s a tempting selection of eats and drinks, including a new venture called Baconopolis. Owner Amie Wolf is serving up breakfast and lunch items that feature – you guessed it – bacon! How about a grilled cheese with bacon jam sandwich? Wolf serves more traditional bacon dishes like breakfast sandwiches as well as daily specials; healthier appetites will appreciate Baconopolis’ big green salad with goat cheese and bacon. All of the bacon is from Wood’s Meats. Also in the food court is Preferred Pastries, where’s it’s all about yummy! Scones, turnovers, cake … what’s not to love about this perfect new addition? Pastry chef Bob Walker utilizes his training at Le Cordon Bleu to create these fresh-baked concoctions; plus, don’t miss his special biscuits ‘n’ gravy served on Saturday mornings. The Neighborhood Pub, 124 S. Second Ave., is a place where families and friends are encouraged to “hang out” and relax. Besides the delicious fare and top-notch selection of beers – 10 on tap, and 100-plus more by the bottle – the pub stocks plenty of board games so that everyone’s entertained. A menu favorite is the Brotherly Love grinder, featuring tender slices of beef piled high on a toasted French roll with sweet onions, pesto, mushrooms, bell peppers, blue cheese and provolone.
NEWLY REMODELED FRESH SEAFOOD • AGED BEEF LOCAL FRESH INGREDIENTS
208 264-5311
HOPEFLOATINGRESTAURANT.COM
COURTESY OF SCHWEITZER MOUNTAIN RESORT
M
Wings are another popular menu item, made all the more tempting with a chooseyour-own sauce. “We have a variety of homemade sauces – traditional, barbecue, sweet chili, a Bob Marley jerk sauce, Srirachi, and more,” said owner John Akins. Thai Nigiri, 209 N. First Ave., is a sushi lover’s paradise, featuring all sorts of specialty rolls including the Sandpoint roll: salmon, cream cheese and avocado served deep-fried and topped with a seared scallop. Share an appetizer with friends – try the Tuna Tataki: seared tuna on top of daikon with a chef’s special sauce.
SPORTS BAR
16 Beers on tap 20 Hi Def TVs Large Groups Welcome Family Friendly
www.sweetlousidaho.com
Ponderay, Idaho » Next to Holiday Inn Express 208. 263.1381
Sweet Lou says, “come hungry, stay late, eat well.”
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& Drinks
The Local Dish
News and events foodies need to know
Eats
Café Bodega’s curry chicken salad features a mild curry chicken on a bed of fresh spinach. COURTESY PHOTO
T
here’s a slogan out at the Old Ice House Pizzeria, 140 W. Main St. in Hope: “The only thing better than our pizza is the view.” But fans of the Ice House’s delicious artisan-style pizza question the truth to that statement. “Our customers tell us we have that backwards,” said manager Naomi Jordan. That’s a big statement, considering the pizzeria has an expansive view of Lake Pend Oreille. The pizzeria has been under new ownership for just over a year, and the pizza continues to draw rave reviews. The meat lover’s pizza is a favorite with locally made Wood’s meats including pepperoni and Italian sausage, and the Greek pizza is also popular with pesto, spinach and feta. Ice House also offers
house-made gluten-free crust. “It’s exceptionally good,” Jordan said. She serves local beer on tap along with a regular selection of bottled beers. Summer truly is the season of salads, and customers at Café Bodega, 504 Oak St. inside Foster’s Crossing Antiques, have been coming back year after year for the Curry Chicken Salad. “It has all the textural things you want,” said owner David Luers: mild curry chicken on a bed of fresh spinach, with red peppers, feta cheese and praline pecans. “It has a crunch and a really fresh taste; it’s very savory,” he said. Another warm weather fave is the cold roast beef sandwich, stacked high on a ciabatta roll with horseradish and stone-ground mustard. “It’s just fantastic,” Luers said. The café also serves
lattes, mochas, teas and more. Do you believe in magic? Star Alexander, a local magician who used to perform in Las Vegas, will make you a believer during Magic Wednesdays, happening from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. every Wednesday at Jalapeno’s, 314 N. Second Ave. – all summer long! This is a perfect event for families looking for something fun and exciting to go along with their meal. “Kids love it. He’s definitely a high-quality magician and he’s spectacular,” said Jalapeno’s owner Dave Vermeer. “He does close-up magic that will really blow your mind.” Other weekday special events at the restaurant throughout summer include Margarita Mondays – 12-ounce margaritas will be upgraded to 16 ounces at no extra charge; and Taco Tuesdays starting at 5 p.m. featuring a special Taco Tuesday Menu at reduced prices. Beef, chicken, fish, shrimp, you name it! It’s no great mystery that The Pie Hut, 502 Church St., serves fabulous, made-from-scratch pies – summer favorites include the strawberry rhubarb and sour cream lemon pies. What
The only thing better than the pizza is the view.
208-264-5555 • OPEN YEAR ‘ROUND 140 W. Main Street • Hope, ID
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102 Church St. Sandpoint
(208) 263-1444
Beer Hall and Brewery Tasting Room 220 Cedar St | 208-209-6700 facebook.com/MickDuffsBeerHall Downtown Sandpoint www.mickduffs.com
The Reuben from Pine Street Bakery on homemade New York rye. COURTESY PHOTO
day (Monday through Friday), as well as soups, and there’s a sit-down area in the adjoining dining room. Speaking of lunch, sandwiches have made their debut on the menu at Pine Street Bakery, 710 Pine St. “It’s a very exciting time for us,” said co-owner Maria Corsini. There are four sandwiches on the menu, including a Porky Pig featuring ham, bacon, salami and coppa with melted Swiss cheese and tomato on ciabatta bread (made fresh at the bakery, of course). Another must-try
& Drinks
We Bring PHILLY To You!
Family Friendly Brewpub 312 North First Ave. | 208-255-4351 facebook.com/MickDuffs
Eats
newcomers may be surprised to know is that Chef Heather Gross creates amazing sandwiches, including the new banh mi featuring ginger and garlic beef with a special Srirachi mayo. Other favorite lunches include the quiches and pot pies. Closed Mondays, so plan accordingly! Joe’s Philly Cheesesteak, 102 Church St., is the place to beat summer heat with their new lineup of smoothies made with juice and fruit puree: try the Sunshine Blend with carrot, pear and mango, or the Gratifying Greens with spinach, pear and kiwi. Dogs will enjoy the cool-down at Joe’s, too, because they keep a water dish just outside the door for thirsty canines. While cheesesteaks are the specialty, Joe’s keeps burger lovers happy by using local Wood’s meat in their fresh – never frozen – burgers with hand-made patties. Keep an eye out for daily specials, as well. Keep your summertime schedule as carefree as possible by picking up a take-n-bake meal at Miller’s Country Store, 1326 Baldy Rd. Miller’s makes all the take-home meals in the bakery, and have expanded their line of dinners to include some Weight Watchers recipes. In fact, Miller’s has made it a point of including those with dietary restrictions in a number of their menu items including gluten-free scones and cookies. Lunch-goers know that Miller’s is a great place to enjoy a meal – there’s always a hot sandwich special every
Espresso • Beer/Wine • WiFi
Open Daily at 6 A.M. 208 N. 4th Avenue • Sandpoint, ID
Local * Natural * Delicious
Deli * Salad Bar * Bulk * Bakery Fresh Meat * Seafood * Dairy ing Supply Produce Grocery * Organic Espresso * Supplements ted * Wine eable Kombucha * Health and Beauty nced 703 W Lake Street at Boyer St. www.WinterRidgeFoods.com r 208-265-8135
www.JoesPhilly.com SUMMER 2015
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Eats
& Drinks
The Local Dish News and events foodies need to know
The Pie Hut
502 Church Street • Sandpoint, ID • 208-265-2208
Great Soups v Sandwiches v Pies
is the classic Reuben with corned beef, sauerkraut and Swiss on New York rye bread. Sandwiches are served with a side of tabbouleh salad or chips. Plus check out the bakery’s lineup of bagel creations such as the Batgirl Bagel with bacon, avocado, red onions and cream cheese, and the always popular Bagels and Lox. Customers can choose from a variety of bagel flavors. “Usually we have a seeded, a sesame A lively scene in the 219 Lounge’s remodeled patio bar, featuring live music and fun summer events. COURTESY PHOTO
and a plain – as long as those hold up, we’re good,” said Corsini. And on Thursdays, the bakery makes whole wheat bagels, as well. Once you’ve tried the Sandpoint Sourdough at Winter Ridge Natural Foods Market, 703 W. Lake St., it’s impossible not to go back for more! The bakery department inside Winter Ridge is a hidden little treasure trove of scrumptious baked goods, and everything’s made with organic ingredients. Many of the items utilize local products, as well, so it’s a win-win for everyone! Winter Ridge also offers up an impressive list of educational topics
What’s Cooking Around Town?
Find Out»
Rice crusts & soy cheese now available
“Out of this W orld” • Delivery • Sandwiches • Calzones • Specialty Salads • Homemade Dough • Beer/Wine • Take & Bakes
www.SandpointDining.com
The Carolyn
215 S. 2nd Ave.
263-9321
Dinner 7Nights/Week Sushi
Gorgeous Sunsets
shogasushi.com 138
Asian-Fusion Cuisine
41 Lakeshore Drive, Sagle, Idaho 83860
SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
208 265 2001
SUMMER 2015
What’s Cooking Around Town?
Find Out» www.SandpointDining.com
Eats
& Drinks
in their Speaker Series – learn about everything from food prep to home remedies and more. Check out the lineup at www.WinterRidgeFoods.com. Looking for where the locals go to hang out? Try the 219 Lounge at 219 First Ave. in downtown Sandpoint. Step back into history as the 219 celebrates its 81st year of being in business in 2015. Enjoy drink specials, plus the 219 serves 30-plus different national, regional and local craft beers. There’s great local and regional musicans during the weekends on the new outdoor patio bar, plus karaoke every Tuesday night. Don’t miss the 219’s unique oneof-a-kind indoor and outdoor murals – and the coolest restrooms of any bar in Idaho! What else would you expect from Idaho’s five-star dive bar? Di Luna’s Cafe, 207 Cedar St., is taking advantage of the Sandpoint Farmers Market big time this summer, bringing back the Farmers Market Scramble and utilizing what’s fresh at the market each week. And if you have a hankering for something savory,
208-255-1508 Juices Smoothies Vegetarian Cuisine •
301 Cedar St Sandpoint, ID info @ Tierra Madre.com
Winter Ridge Natural Food Market bakes inhouse breads including the Challah Loaf. PHOTO BY BETH HAWKINS
Di Luna’s will be cooking up special burgers using locally raised lamb and yak. With expectations high for a great berry crop this year, look for fresh berry mimosas on the menu! MickDuff’s Brewing Company’s newest beer is going to be a summer favorite: Session IPA. It’s light in alcohol, so it’s a nice, light, malty and hoppy-balanced beer (that’s the tough part: having a balanced, lighter IPA that has a malt body instead of becoming a thin beer). The brewpub at 312 N. First Ave., is a great place to enjoy MickDuff’s beer along with hearty meals – try the awesome new pork burger or the Cubano sandwich. And for pure beer-drinking pleasure, MickDuff’s Beer Hall at 220 Cedar St., is making a concerted effort to produce more barrel-aged beers including straight new oak, bourbon barrel and rum barrel. Bottoms up!
• OVER 400 BEERS IN STOCK • 12 ROTATING BEER TAPS • MEATS, ARTISAN CHEESES
Serving breakfast and lunch daily, summer dinners Wednesday through Sunday.
102 N 1st Ave, Sandpoint 208-265-4311 • S pudsonline.com INSIDE PANHANDLE STATE BANK
263-9514 TANGO-CAFE-SANDPOINT.COM
Chicken salad sandwich with avocado green salad
SANDPOINT’S PREMIER CRAFT BEER STORE
SUMMER 2015
203 CEDAR STREET
DOWNTOWN SANDPOINT, ID 208-597-7096
IDAHOPOURAUTHORITY.COM LIKE US ON FACEBOOK FOR UPDATES
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Downtown Sandpoint DINING Map
Elks Golf Course
Bonner Mall
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SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
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SUMMER 2015
LAKE PEND OREILLE
Sand Creek Byway
Visitor Center
Church
140
Kootenai Cut-off Rd
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Fourth Ave.
Dining Guide
1 Café Bodega 2 Cedar St. Bistro 3 Evans Brothers Coffee 4 Monarch Mountain Coffee 5 Pine Street Bakery 6 Tierra Madre 7 Joe’s Philly Cheesesteak 8 Miller’s Country Store & Deli 9 Mojo Coyote 0 Tango Cafe - Winter Ridge Natural Foods = Chimney Rock Grill q Connie’s Café w Di Luna’s Café e DISH at Dover Bay r Floating Restaurant t Forty-One South y Pie Hut u Spuds Waterfront Grill i Sweet Lou’s o Trinity at City Beach p Eichardt’s Pub & Grill [ MickDuff’s Brewpub ] Bangkok on Second \ Ivano’s del Lago a Ivano’s Ristoranté & Caffè s Jalapeño’s Restaurant d Ice House Pizzeria f Kyoko Sushi g Second Avenue Pizza h Shoga at Forty-One South j Idaho Pour Authority k La Rosa Club l Laughing Dog Brewing ; MickDuff’s Brewing Co. Beer
Restaurant index by type of cuisine Locate by number on dining map
Dining Guide
DINING GUIDE BAKERIES, COFFEE & CAFÉS
6 Tierra Madre
301 Cedar Street, Suite 105. Tierra Madre takes great pride in offering freshly mixed juices and smoothies, as well as a variety of local, vegetarian and raw food choices. Loose leaf organic tea, coffee and desserts also available! An inviting atmosphere with indoor seating and an outdoor patio. 255-1508.
1Café Bodega
Fifth and Cedar inside Foster’s Crossing. Revitalize yourself at Café Bodega, featuring an assortment of superior sandwiches, homemade soups, all organic espresso bar, whole leaf tea and fresh baked goods. Café available for catered evening events. 263-5911.
DELICATESSENS & MARKETS
2 Cedar St. Bistro
European-style café in the heart of downtown Sandpoint on the Cedar Street Bridge. Exceptional coffee and tea drinks, premium gelato, delectable pastries, fine chocolates, and tasty panini. 265-4396.
3 Evans Brothers Coffee
7 Joe’s Philly Cheesesteak 102 Church St. Authentic Philly cheesesteaks served with choice of cheese; also serving burgers, hot dogs, fries, BLTs, vegetarian and gluten-free options, smoothies, shakes and freshmade salads. Open Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. 263-1444.
Now featuring Affogatos with homemade craft ice cream from Panhandle Cone & Coffee and our espresso. Newly enhanced outdoor patio. Featuring cold brew and handcrafted coffees by the cup. 265-5553.
8 Miller’s Country Store & Deli
4 Monarch Mountain Coffee
9 Mojo Coyote at Schweitzer
5 Pine Street Bakery
0 Tango Cafe
208 N. Fourth Ave. Open at 6 a.m. daily and roasting top-grade beans. Treat yourself to a classic or custom delight from the Espresso Bar, a cup of premium brewed coffee or tea, craft beer or wine. Baked goods, breakfast burritos, homemade soup and appetizer plates to share. 265-9382.
710 Pine St. European pastries, breads and cakes made using quality ingredients. Coffees, espresso drinks and Tazzina teas. Sit on the patio, or enjoy new seating upstairs. Open Monday to Friday, 7 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturdays 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. 2639012.
SUMMER 2015
1326 Baldy Mountain Rd. Newly expanded store and dining area. Wholesome goodness with a selection of fine deli meats and cheeses, bulk food items, pie fillings, and delicious freshbaked pies and breads – plus soup and sandwiches to go or eat in. 263-9446. 10000 Schweitzer Mountain Rd. Enjoy a fresh Evans Brothers espresso and treat your sweet tooth to a warm scone. Fresh-baked pastries, breakfast burritos and lunch specials. Fine selection of beer and wine. 255-3037.
414 Church St. In the Sandpoint Center atrium, Tango is a favorite for breakfast and lunch Monday through Friday. Signature omelettes and lunch specials, fresh-baked goods, and a barista bar. Take-out dinner menu. 263-9514.
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t Forty-One South
- Winter Ridge
41 Lakeshore Dr., Sagle. South end of the Long Bridge. Waterfront dining in an elegant lodge setting; exquisite service paired with innovative cuisine make for one of North Idaho’s premier dinner dining experiences. Open 7 nights a week for dinner. 265-2000.
Dining Guide
703 Lake St. A natural foods grocery store with in-house deli, bakery, meat department, organic produce department and hot take-out food bar. The store is open daily, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. 265-8135.
ECLECTIC / FINE DINING
= Chimney Rock at Schweitzer
y Pie Hut
q Connie’s Café
u Spuds Waterfront Grill
w Di Luna’s Café
i Sweet Lou’s
e DISH at Dover Bay
o Trinity at City Beach
502 Church St. A gourmet café where the locals like to eat. Daily lunch specials include homemade soups, panini, pot pies, beef pasties, quiches and salads, plus fruit and cream pies. Open Tuesday through Saturday. 265-2208.
10000 Schweitzer Mountain Rd. Fireplaces, comfortable seating in the bar and a diverse cuisine. Extensive menu includes high-quality steaks, hearty pasta, scrumptious salads and exquisite seafood. Open daily inside the Selkirk Lodge at Schweitzer. 255-3071.
102 N. First Ave. On Sand Creek overlooking the marina. Spuds makes everything from scratch; from every dressing, sauce and soup, to elaborate baked potatoes, loaded salads, unique sandwiches and desserts. Stay in for lunch or take it to go. Spuds Waterfront Grill, a landmark restaurant in Sandpoint since 1995. www.spudsonline.com. 265-4311
323 Cedar St. Historic hospitality! Landmark Sandpoint restaurant is known as “a coffee shop with dinner house quality.” Serving made-fromscratch breakfast, lunch and dinner dishes of the highest quality. 255-2227.
207 Cedar St. American bistro café offering hand-cut steaks, homemade soups and vegetarian cuisine. Farmto-Table dinners monthly and dinner concerts. Open Tuesday through Sunday for breakfast and lunch. 263-0846.
Two locations! In Hope: 46624 Highway 200, overlooking Lake Pend Oreille in the Holiday Shores Marina. 264-5999. In Ponderay: 477272 U.S. Highway 95. 2631381. Open every day, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Something for everyone on the menu!
At Dover Bay Resort. Casual fine dining on the water. DISH at Dover Bay is open for the season. Serving lunch starting June 5 and dinner seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. American grill menu with Pacific Rim influences. Full liquor bar. 265-6467.
r Floating Restaurant (The)
58 Bridge St. Enjoy breakfast, lunch and dinner on the shore of Lake Pend Oreille. Waterfront dining with an outstanding view and menu featuring seafood, steaks, salads and appetizers; great selection of wines, beers and cocktails. Open daily from 7:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. 255-7558.
PUB-STYLE
47392 Hwy 200 Hope, at Hope Marina. Completely rebuilt in 2015 with a new lounge, beautiful dining room, covered and open patios. Regional, handmade fare, fresh seafood, local products. Enjoy the views and that “on the lake” experience from decks or dining room. Lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch. 2645311 www.hopefloatingrestaurant.com 142
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SUMMER 2015
p Eichardt’s Pub & Grill
212 Cedar St. Relaxing pub and grill mixes casual dining with seriously good food. More than a dozen beers on tap, good wines and live music. Upstairs game room with fireplace. Locally supported since 1994. Open daily at 11:30 a.m. 263-4005.
f Kyoko Sushi
Co. Brewpub
Located on the historic Cedar Street Bridge. Local Chef Junior Solis is bringing back what he does best – sushi and so much more. Providing the freshest, never farmed fish to Sandpoint and providing his expert culinary Latin/Asian fusion. 627-9521.
312 N. First Ave. Handcrafted ales in a family-friendly downtown atmosphere, brewing natural north ales and root beer. Menu includes traditional and updated pub fare – gourmet hamburgers, sandwiches and handcrafted soups. 255-4351.
REGIONAL/ETHNIC
g Second Avenue Pizza
215 S. Second Ave. Savor the piledhigh specialty pizzas, loaded with fresh ingredients on homemade dough, or calzones, specialty salads and sandwiches. Beer and wine, take-andbake pizzas available. Free delivery; open daily. 263-9321.
] Bangkok On Second
202 N. Second Ave. Authentic Thai food, including a wide variety of vegetarian and gluten-free selections; fine selection of wine and beer, Thai tea, and coffee. Lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner Monday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. 265-4149.
Dining Guide
[ MickDuff’s Brewing
h Shoga @ Forty-One South
\ Ivano’s del Lago
41 Lakeshore Dr., Sagle. Premier sushi restaurant adjacent to Forty-One South. Sushi bar and magnificent sunset views overlooking Lake Pend Oreille. Open for dinner seven nights a week. 265-2001.
1267 Peninsula Rd., Hope. Waterfront dining at its best. Ivano’s del Lago at Beyond Hope offers lakeside dining like no other place on the lake. Enjoy a cocktail, appetizers and a delicious dinner in the glow of the lake sunset. The scenery is unbeatable! 264-5221.
DRINKING ESTABLISHMENTS
a Ivano’s Ristoranté & Caffè
102 S. First Ave. Italian dining accompanied by classic wines. Pasta, fresh seafood and steaks, veal, chicken, and vegetarian entrees. Gluten-free menu. Dinner served seven nights a week starting at 4:30 p.m. 263-0211.
j Idaho Pour Authority
203 Cedar St. Sandpoint’s premier craft beer store. Offering the best selection of bottled beer. Twelve rotating taps allow you to have a beer while you shop or take home a growler. Not into beer? Enjoy a great selection of fine cheese, cured meats, crackers and, to finish it all off, chocolate! 597-7096.
sJalapeño’s Restaurant
314 N. Second Ave. A Sandpoint favorite for over 20 years offering both traditional and Americanized Mexican dishes in a fun family-friendly atmosphere. Full bar, patio seating, banquet facilities, gluten-free menu, quick to-go menu, indoor waterfall and fish tank offer something for everyone. 263-2995.
d Ice House Pizzeria
Located in scenic Hope, just a quick 20-minute drive from Sandpoint. Enjoy locally sourced ingredients, including fresh Wood’s Meats atop handmade artisan crust (gluten-free available) while taking in the beautiful view of Lake Pend Oreille. Offering a wide selection of local beer and wine. Family friendly and open year round. 264-5555. SUMMER 2015
k La Rosa Club
105 S. First Ave. Casual gathering place featuring craft cocktails and martinis along with an innovative food menu with plates and bites. Fresh, seasonal, local ingredients. Open Tuesday through Saturday, 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. 255-2100.
l Laughing Dog Brewing
1109 Fontaine Dr., Ponderay. Take a tour and taste handcrafted ales, IPAs, stouts, and the hoppiest beer anywhere. Open Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Come to Firkin Friday, first Friday of every month, for a special batch of beer. New Brick Oven Pizza coming. 263-9222. SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
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; MickDuff’s Brewing Co.
z Small House Winery
220 Cedar St. 21 years and older brewery tasting room boasting 10 taps, local bar art, free popcorn and weekly entertainment. They are BYOF (bring your own food) friendly and have a beer for every taste. 209-6700.
1636 Baldy Park Dr. Northwest handcrafted wines. Tasting room is open Saturdays 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. and by appointment. Visit our website for restaurants and shops in the area that carry our wine: www.small housewinery.com. 290-2016.
'Pend d’Oreille Winery
x 219 Lounge
Dining Guide
Beer Hall & Brewery
301 Cedar St. Locally made wines, tasting room, gift shop and Bistro Rouge in their new location in the renovated and historic Belwood301 Building. Live music weekly, lunch and dinner daily. Sip, dine and shop. 265-8545.
219 N. First Ave. A “locals” favorite proudly serving Sandpoint for more than 75 years, offering beer, wine and cocktails. Enjoy a “219er” by local brewery Laughing Dog. Open seven days a week, 365 days a year from 10 a.m. to 2 a.m. 263-9934.
Advertiser Index 219 Lounge A Glass Act All Seasons Garden & Floral Alpine Shop Archer Vacation Condos Artist Studio Tour ArtWorks Gallery Barry Fisher Custom Homes Beyond Hope Big Lake Recreation Bird Aviation Boden Architecture Bonner County Fair Bonner County Landscaping Bonner General Health Bowers Construction Business Improvement District Café Bodega/Foster’s Crossing Castle Realty of North Idaho Cedar Street Bridge Century 21/Riverstone Company CO-OP Country Store Coeur d’Alene Casino Coldwell Banker Dana Construction Dover Bay Evans Brothers Coffee Eve’s Leaves Evergreen Realty Evergreen Realty –Charesse Moore Farmers Market Festival at Sandpoint Finan McDonald Floating Restaurant, The Florascape Nursery Fogarty Construction Forty-One South Greasy Fingers Hallans Gallery
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133 120 56-57 72 37 56-57 56-57 118 22 67 53 106 127 120 42-43 120 32 135 108 26-27 105 63 97 9 117 50 136 36 6 98-99 122 123 25 74-75 120 120 134 126 56-57
SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
Hesstronics-7BTV 38 Hive, The 37 Holiday Inn Express 49 Hope Marina 74-75 Idaho Pour Authority 139 International Selkirk Loop 61 Ivano’s 131 Jalapeño’s 4 Janusz Studio by the Lake 56-57 Jensen, Brian CPA 73 KPND Radio 125 Lake Pend Oreille Cruises 54 LaQuinta Inn 124 Laughing Dog Brewing 17 Lewis, James DDS 18-19 Miller’s Country Store 73, 130 Monarch Marble 107 Mountain West Bank 41 MQS Barns 48 Newport Hospital 60 North 40 Outfitters 5 Northern Quest Casino 68 Northwest Handmade 47 Old Church In Hope 40 Orthopaedic Associates of Coeur d’Alene 13 Out There Monthly 126 Paint Bucket 111 Patrick Properties 28 Pend d’Oreille Winery 17 Pend Oreille Shores Resort 64 Petal Talk 34 ReStore Habitat For Humanity 64 Sandpoint Building Supply 119 Sandpoint Business & Events Center 64 Sandpoint Marine & Motor Sports 72 Sandpoint Movers 73, 113 Sandpoint Online 145 Sandpoint Optometry 73
SUMMER 2015
Sandpoint Property Management 20 Sandpoint Reader 54 Sandpoint Sports 124 Sandpoint Storage 124 Sandpoint Super Drug 40 Sandpoint Surgical Associates 14 Sandpoint Vacation Rentals 31 Sandpoint Waldorf School 41 Sandpoint West Athletic Club 126 Sayler Architecture 107 Schweitzer Mountain Resort 147 Selkirk Craftsman Furniture 34, 120 Selkirk Glass & Cabinets 111 Selle Valley Construction 3 Shoga 138 Skeleton Key Art 56-57 Skywalker Tree Care 106 Sleep’s Cabins 122 Summit Insurance 23 Sunshine Goldmine 16 Sweet Lou’s, Hope 131 Sweet Lou’s, Ponderay 135 Taylor Insurance 15 The Local Pages 126 The River Journal 123 Timberframes by Collin Beggs 113, 120 Tomlinson Sandpoint Sotheby’s 2, 148 –Cindy Bond 114 –Linda Tolley 116 Trinity at City Beach 4 Two Lakes Catering 36 Weekends & Company 58 Western Pleasure Guest Ranch 53 Winter Ridge Natural Foods Market 137 Zany Zebra 54
Marketplace Your Buick, GMC truck dealer. New and used sales and leasing. Full service, parts and body shop. Highway 95 N., Ponderay, 263-2118, 1-800-430-5050. www.AlpineMotors.net The best skin care Sandpoint has to offer! Extensive menu of facial and body treatments. Full-body waxing. Serene, relaxing environment. Geneé Jo Baker, certified esthetician. sugeeskincare@yahoo.com, 324 S. Florence Ave., 263-6205. A marketing communications firm providing web design and hosting, search engine optimization and marketing, graphic design, public relations, editorial and media consultation. 405 Church St., 263-3573, 800-880-3573. www.keokee.com Scandinavian countries represented in this specialty shop. Kitchen items, table tops, candles, electric candle holders, books, cards, rugs, pewter Vikings, mugs, Danish iron candle holders and year-round Christmas. 319 N. First Ave., 263-7722.
Special gifts for special people. Vera Bradley bags, Big Sky Carvers, Baggallini, Tyler and BeanPod candles, souvenirs, balloon bouquets, Hallmark cards, books, gift wrap, stationery. 306 N. First Ave., 263-2811. A website that provides links to services, things to do, places to stay, shop, eat and buy local foods. Celebrating many “people in business” that have served Sandpoint for over 20 years. www.ShopSandpoint.com. 263-5447. The vision of this Bed & Breakfast was to share with family, friends and others seeking a place of solace. A place for people to renew and rejuvenate. In keeping with this core vision, lodging dollars are spent helping support local missions as well as international humanitarian efforts. www.TalusRockRetreat.com. 255-8458. Offering the latest bestsellers, office supplies, machine supplies and free delivery in Sandpoint. Order online. 201 Cedar St., 263-2417. www.Vanderfords.com
Get in the Marketplace! Call 208-263-3573 ext. 123 • adsales@keokee.com
Property Management, LLC Protecting your real estate investments since 2003! We provide a wide range of property protection and vacation rental management services for seasonal residents and vacation homeowners of North Idaho. Available 24/7 for Property Management, LLC emergencies! www.NorthridgeProperty Management.com. Jeremy 290-6847 or Mike 290-6531
SVR is a full-service property management company with 12 years of experience. Offering vacation rental properties and long-term rentals in Sandpoint and surrounding areas, including waterfront homes, lakefront condos, Schweitzer Mountain vacation rentals, homes at the Idaho Club, and many other rental properties. www.SandpointVacationRentals. com. 208-263-7570 or 866-263-7570
Sandpoint FREE classified ads Got something to sell? Looking for a place to rent, a job ... or looking for love? Post for FREE, or browse other ads in Sandpoint’s own version of Craigslist. SandpointClassifieds. com.
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SANDPOINT OF VIEW
By Peter Hicks
Across the miles to Sandpoint
W
e looked at the two, redand-blue plastic training potties of our 3-year-old twin girls and at our third child just beginning to round Fiona’s belly in her sixth month. We looked at our 1995 Toyota Camry Wagon and took stock of our aged camping gear. We looked at our bank account, or maybe we didn’t. But one thing was clear, it was the perfect time to drive across the country with no particular aim, except to maybe find a home. No pressure. On a fine Sunday morning in early June, we set out from Atlanta with one goal: getting across the Midwest with as few stops as possible. We wanted the mountains. We wanted wilderness and wide open spaces. We all took road names: Pioneer Pete, Mountain Mega-Mama, Storm Girl, Winter Girl and Jumpin’ Jonesy (in utero) and sang every song we knew until our voices grew sore. And then we crossed the Mississippi River. As South Dakota turned from rolling prairie to the distinct rock of the Black Hills, and Wyoming offered both desert scrub and endless green forests, our hearts crossed the great divide and we knew we could not return East. The magic began when we buck146
SANDPOINT MAGAZINE
led our seat belts in Georgia. We were together, and it wasn’t worth worrying about tomorrow because we didn’t have enough information anyway. Within a week our ever-changing campsites operated on instinct. The girls were always sticky from marshmallows and covered in soot and smiles. Every evening was filled with songs and long stories. It was a perfect time, only occasionally assaulted by the fact that we were homeless. By the time we headed north out of Coeur d’Alene, my faith was embattled by more practical considerations. Our time of wandering had to end soon. Money was running out, and Fio was less than two months from giving birth. It was a quiet drive. We rolled the windows down just south of Sagle. We could smell the air growing sweeter. Then without warning, we found ourselves suspended over a diamond lake with mountains towering near and rolling far. We felt the cool wind and hot sunshine, and we could barely breathe. The Long Bridge, the gate to Sandpoint, surpassing the grandeur of the Brandenburg Gate or the Ancient Gate of the Keepers, welcomed us by turning our doubts on their heads. In the weeks that followed SUMMER 2015
we picked huckleberries on Schweitzer, played softball out at Red Wheelbarrow Farm, and I danced with my girls in the farmers market bustle to the fine pickin’ of Truck Mills. When I got a job with Pat and Jenn at Bountiful Organics, we knew we would stay. And so, Sandpoint is our home. We often rob the piggy bank to watch our children grow here. This place challenges our presuppositions of life in every step. Sometimes it feels too hard, and we can’t rise to the task. Sometimes our home offers more challenges than rest. Then our hearts find strength in the laughter, mysteries and friendships, and we are overcome by the surrounding natural glory so strong it silences fears and stops the chatter. All it takes is a simple fire at Sunnyside while the sinking sun whips the sky into a fury of color, or singing a few songs with good friends, to ward off the darkness. However the day reveals itself, we are grateful to live here, with you, in Sandpoint. Below: First autumn in Sandpoint for Peter, Fiona, Nishta, Anahla and Thalia Hicks. PHOTO BY MIKE LYTH Above: En route to Sandpoint and off the beaten track in Yellowstone National Park. PHOTO BY FIONA HICKS
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