Nยบ 6 | 2012
JURGITA.COM
OVERSIZE on the Rise! Our Darkest Desires
The Vampire Diaries
Showtime Special:
a Short Review of NYC Show Packages This Insecure Small MODELING WORLD
Fashion Trends Guide Autumn/Winter 2012-2013:
Tangerine Outfit | Hunter | Militarism | Black Leather | Spikes
© Giedrius Paulauskas
&
Design Promotion
JURGITA
showcases the work
of talented
designers,
illustrators and artists.
© Vilius Venckevicius
© "Lost Friday"
Illustration
We're interested in fashion-related illustration - and need work to complement and illustrate the various product pages within the magazine.
© Maria Popadnicenko
© Kristina Kruopienyte
© Giedrius Paulauskas
© Vilius Venckevicius
Send a link to your online portfolio(s) to: editor@jurgita.com
and we'll contact you about the possibility of commissioning you for illustration, or incorporating your work within the magazine.
Press Releases
Send any review or sample items to: editor@jurgita.com
We accept Paid
inclusion of
press releases
if they fit our requirements. We want to know
about your latest
news!
is here! The modeling business is one of the most prestige and visual businesses in the world, a dream of many young girls and boys and an inspiration for millions. A serious business for models, agencies, managers mainly a profitable business tool to promote brands, designers and magazines. Since its inception in the 1940's the modeling business has expanded globally and today with advanced technology model managers can find models and introduce the models within seconds to partner agencies around the globe. With a large and growing community of managers (scouts) and models, the industry has become extremely competitive.
M.A.M.A unites Mother Agents/ “Managers” from around the globe in order to protect the interests of managers and models while keeping a fair balance with the interests of our partner retail agencies and agents and clients.
Listen to what mama tells you M.A.M.A.
If you haven’t done it yet join M.A.M.A. today Taking better care of our models and introducing a Model Hotline (www.m-a-m-a.org)
• “switching models” a plague that is hurting our industry. contracts must be respected. Models have the right to request a switch of managers and or agencies either by mutual consent of both parties of the agreement or by a judge decision. It is the models obligation to get a release of agreement from the court and not the managers/ mother agents. Models with the supervision of managers must not leave agencies with debts and before switching agencies the models and managers must settle outstanding debts or reach an agreement for future settlement of debt. • commissions and commission agreements. Drafting a recommended “MCA” Manager Commission Agreement advised for all members. The agreement will set the basic fundamental rules and regulations of M.A.M.A open to negotiation and most certainly to negotiate the financial terms of the agreement. *it is strictly prohibited of any M.A.M.A. directors or members to mutually agree or set rates on commissions or fees. • contracts/agreements between Managers and Models, MAMA will advise its members on the basic requirements for a proper manager representation agreement. this includes the right to represent the model, model career planning, model placement with partner agencies, negotiate on the models behalf and manage the model activities internationally. • model welfare as managers that have many of times exclusive world wide agreements with models, we must stay alert to the models welfare and wellbeing. M.A.M.A supports the initiatives of various organizations such such as the model alliance and join in making the model business and working conditions a better place for models especially for underage models. • bridging disputes between managers/models/ agents. M.A.M.A.’s, directors, members, volunteers, legal and financial consultants will be made available to consult members in order to guide and possibly resolve disputes or issues with the aim of reaching a mutually agreed bridging solution and thus offering the parties the ability to continue to work together.
M.A.M.A current main agenda topics are:
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Outfit: Tangerine
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KENZO (www.kenzo.com)
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1. KENNETH JAY LANE EMPRESS Coral Crystal Ring (www.pret-a-beaute.com); 2. Steven Harkin Leather Bag (www.stevenharkin.com); 3. Holga 'Jack Edition' Package (www.lomography.com). 4. Koh-i-Noor Pencil (www.kohinoorusa.com); 5. Burberry Prorsum Cropped Wool Jacket (www.net-a-porter.com); 6. Dita by KENZO Leather Boots (www.sarenza.co.uk); 7. WINKY Tangerine Orange Slap Watch (www. winkydesigns.storenvy.com); 8. MIU MIU Cropped Cashmere Pullover With Tie (www.mytheresa.com); 9. TOPSHOP Skirt (www.topshop.com); 10. MULBERRY Bag (www.mulberry.com); 11. SUS Lace-up Boots (www.zalando.co.uk);
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MULBERRY (www.mulberry.com)
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9. 11. 1. KENZO Gold Orange Resin Ring (www.ssense.com); 2. Tory Burch Slavka open-knit mohair-blend sweater (www.theoutnet.com); 3. Flip Side Shades - Black (www.nastygal.com); 4. BOTTEGA VENETA Zip-detailed leather jacket (www.theoutnet.com); 5. French Connection Kite Stitch Wallet (www.frenchconnection.com); 6. AESOP Resurrection Aromatique Hand Wash, 500ml (www.aesop.com); 7. CHLOE Tan Lace-Up Wedge Booties (www.ssense.com); 8. Cambridge Satchel. Handmade Leather (www.cambridgesatchel.co.uk); 9. Black & Brown Nadine Calf Hair Waist Belt (www.asos.com); 10. Boss Orange Orange Strap Watch (www.asos.com); 11. GIORGIO ARMANI VINTAGE Skirt (www.farfetch.com); 12. Rachel Comey Ring Belt (www.asos.com).
Shops
promotion
We're always on the lookout for shops for product placement: jewellery, watches, accessories, stationery, clothing, footwear, homewares, bags...! We always feature original, quality items. All items must be available for purchase through your online shop. We adjust images from each online shop so clear, large photos (preferably on a white background) are a must. Email JURGITA with a link to your shop for consideration at: editor@jurgita.com We will include shops that fit our requirements on affiliate commission basis.
JURGITA Modeling and Fashion magazine Issue 6 / 2012
EDITORIAL Publisher & Founder Ugnius Kiguolis, Jurgita Kiguole Editor-in-chief Sandra Kliukaite Art Editor Reda Mickeviciute Senior Designer Justina Juozenaite Junior Designer Mingaile Skuodyte Contributing Writer Alexis Heim Photographers Gediminas Zilinskas, Reda Mickeviciute, Dainius Sciuka, Marina Dean-Francis Advertising Director Milda Zeimiene
COVER IMAGE Photography Gediminas Zilinskas Make Up: Emilija Sidlauskaite Model: Kristina Lusaite “Supermodels� You Can Be Here. Join Us On www.jurgita.com Contact Us jurgita@jurgita.com
It's your TIME! Be visible!
Send us your fashion outfit!
Global
Fashion
If you are really stylish person, you can show that to the world! To be considered for the Global Fashion spread in the magazine, send your photo to: editor@jurgita.com, please include your name, age, location and some notes about your style. All photos must be clear, large, well-lit and show fashion/style. Not all photos can be included in the magazine.
SUMMARY 6 OUTFIT // Tangerine 9 EDITORIAL 12 SUMMARY 14 FASHION SHOOT // Autumn Fairytale and Vintage 22 TRENDS / COOL HUNTING // H.U.N.T.E.R. 28 TRENDS / CATWALK // Hunter 30 BACKSTAGE // This Insecure Small Modeling World 34 TRENDS / COOL HUNTING // M.I.L.I.T.A.R.I.S.M. 38 TRENDS / CATWALK // Militarism 40 FASHION SHOOT // VOLUME 1 by Robert Kalinkin 48 FASHION / THEME // The Vampire Diaries 54 TRENDS / COOL HUNTING // B.L.A.C.K. L.E.A.T.H.E.R 58 TRENDS / CATWALK // Black Leather 60 MADE IN LITHUANIA // Jewelry: Our Darkest Desires by Vilius Venckevicius 66 TRENDS / COOL HUNTING // S.P.I.K.E.S. 70 FASHION SHOOT // Sunday 76 FASHION & MODELING / NEW FACES // Matas Ignatavicius 78 BACKSTAGE // Showtime Special: a Short Review of NYC Show Packages 82 FASHION SHOOT // Heterogeneous Mix 90 FASHION / THEME // The Trend for OVERSIZE on the Rise! 94 CONTRIBUTION Nยบ 1 / BEAUTY // On the Dark side 98 FASHION BOOK / The art of anti-fashion // Yohji Yamamoto: The fashion designer who redesigned fashion
MODELS! You Can Be Here!
Join Us!
Win a Fashion Shoot & Publication in the Magazine JURGITA www.jurgita.com Photographers, Designers, Stylists and Make up Artists! Your Works May be Here! Join Us! www.jurgita.com
Autumn
Fairytale and Vintage
Photography: Gediminas Zilinskas (www.Gediminas-Zilinskas.com) Style and Make Up: Emilija Sidlauskaite Model: Kristina Lusaite “Supermodels”
Fur „Ziemys“ Dress „Studija LT“ (www.studijalt.eu) Socks „Lindex“ (www.lindex.com) Shoes vintage
BOOK THIS MODEL
Coat „Studija LT“(www.studijalt.eu) Shirt vintage Gloves vintage Skirt ZARA (www.zara.com)
Shirt vintage Skirt vintage Hat ZARA (www.zara.com) Bag vintage Socks „United Colors of Benetton“ (www.benetton.com)
Clothes by Giedrius Paulauskas (www.giedriuspaulauskas.com)
Dress „Studija LT“ (www.studijalt.eu)
Clothes by Giedrius Paulauskas (www.giedriuspaulauskas.com)
Coat „Studija LT“ (www.studijalt.eu) Socks „Lindex“ (www.lindex.com) Shoes vintage Accessories vintage
Dress „Studija LT“ (www.studijalt.eu) Shoes vintage Bag vintage
Dress MANGO (www.mango.com) Hat vintage Socks „United Colors of Benetton“ (www.benetton.com) Shoes vintage
Tommy Hilfiger (www.global.tommy.com)
Inspiration:
H.U.N.T.E.R.
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1. WANT LES ESSENTIELS DE LA VIE Tan Suede Liberty Zip Wallet (www.ssense.com); 2. Sena Lugano Snap-On Case for iPhone 4S (www.apple.com); 3. Peter Jensen Saddle Bag (www.asos.com); 4. ASOS Faux Shearling Mittens With Leather Cuff (www.asos.com); 5. Denim & Supply Feather Belt (www.asos.com); 6. JIL SANDER Dark Grey Suede Wedges (www.ssense.com); 7. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Marmot Fur Skull Box Clutch (www.ssense.com); 8. LANVIN Brown Leather Stripe Boots (www.ssense.com); 9. Leica V-Lux 30 (www.leica.com); 10. Max Mara Sunglasses by Safilo (www.safilo.com); 11. Gucci Uomo (www.gucci.com); 12. SEE BY CHLOE Brown Twin Tassel Crossbody Bag (www.ssense.com); 13. Marks & Spencer Hat (www.marksandspencer.com); 14. Shoes “Zara” (www.zara.com); 15. MARSELL Espresso Deer Leather Slip Ons (www.ssense.com); 16. Cambridge Satchel Company 14 Exclusive to Asos Contrast Trim Satchel (www.asos.com); 17. Hat “Zara” (www.zara.com); 18. WANT LES ESSENTIELS DE LA VIE Tan Leather Orly Shopper Tote (www.ssense.com).
Mulberry (www.mulberry.com)
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1. Handbag “Zara” (www.zara.com); 2. CHLOE Tan Quilted Leather Sneakers (www.ssense.com); 3. Sunglasses “Topshop” (www.topshop.com); 4. HERMES VINTAGE Tan Medor 9X Epsom Leather Studded Watch (www.ssense.com); 5. Elegant brown leather belt from Bouchra Jarrar (www.justoneeye.com); 6. PROENZA SCHOULER PS1 Large Brown Satchel (www.ssense.com); 7. MULBERRY Postmans Lock Continental Wallet Soft Buffalo (www.ssense.com); 8. MISSONI Lurex Tank Top (www.boutique1.com); 9. Shoes “Zara” (www.zara.com); 10. MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Beige Raccoon Fur Scarf (www.ssense.com); 11. CHLOE Small Brown Marcie Satchel (www.ssense.com); 12. Candle “Château Marmont” (www.colette.fr); 13. Cameron Straw Hat by Melissa Odabash (www.boutique1.com); 14. Henrik Vibskov - Rip Sock Curry (www.henrikvibskovboutique.com); 15. Michael Kors Brown Leather Strap Chronograph Watch (www.asos.com); 16. Shoes “Zara” (www.zara.com); 17. Christian Dior Dior Flanelle Sunglasses (www.dior.com); 18. LANVIN Tan Shearling Sneakers (www.ssense.com); 19. MULBERRY Tassel Bag Heavy Suede (Oak) (www.ssense.com).
Givenchy (www.givenchy.com)
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1. THE ROW Tortoiseshell Circular Sunglasses (www.ssense.com); 2. Bouchra Jarrar soft fox fur collar with grey wool trim (www.justoneeye.com); 3. MARNI Grey Fox Fur Tube Scarf (www.ssense.com); 4. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Black Snake Print Scarf (www.ssense.com); 5. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Green Snakeskin Devil Skull Clutch (www.ssense.com); 6. Henrik Vibskov - Tricolour mitten (www.henrikvibskovboutique.com); 7. Herschel Sydney Backpack (www.asos.com); 8. WOMAN BY COMMON PROJECTS Tan Leather Shopper Tote (www.ssense.com); 9. GIVENCHY Long Brown Croc Embossed Wallet (www.ssense.com); 10. Peter Jensen - PJ FOX JUMPER DRESS GREY (www.henrikvibskovboutique.com); 11. Alexander McQueen Sunglasses (www.alexandermcqueen.com); 12. RUPERT SANDERSON Green Python Missouri Loafers (www.ssense.com); 13. MARC BY MARC JACOBS Black Leather Riding Boots (www.ssense.com); 14. Henrik Vibskov - Furry Soldier (www.henrikvibskovboutique.com); 15. Bouchra Jarrar pull-over ribbed knit scarf collar in turquoise (www.justoneeye.com); 16. HERMES Dark Green Lizard Skin Medor Studded Bracelet (www.ssense.com); 17. Fragrance Tualete Cocktails & the City (www.oriflame.com); 18. Stunning brown leather belt from Bouchra Jarrar (www.justoneeye.com). 19. THEYSKENS' THEORY Espresso Osfa Shoulder Bag (www.ssense.com).
FASHION & STYLE C AT WA L K
Autumn/Winter 2012-2013 Fashion Trends: Hunter
Acne
Damir Doma
Damir Doma
Dries van Noten
Felipe Oliveira Baptista
Fendi
Fendi
Gareth Pugh
Givenchy
Givenchy
Helmut Lang
Hermes
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Autumn/Winter 2012-2013 Fashion Trends: Hunter
John Galliano
Miu Miu
Salvatore Ferragamo
Loewe
Max Mara
Max Mara
Miu Miu
Muberry
Mulberry
Tommy Hilfiger
Tommy Hilfiger
Salvatore Ferragamo
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BACKSTAGE
THIS INSECURE
SMALL MODELING WORLD (Part One):
Too Many Changes, Too Much Instability
Alexis Heim Models who are changing agencies, a vast topic and almost a daily routine for anyone interested in or involved in fashion modeling business. Indeed, hard to imagine a single week passing by without reading in the news that one girl, at least, went from her former management company to another. Such movements have always existed, yet never at this level.
Still Do It Better?
If, for some people, this is just normal and a phenomenon actually reaching other professions in fashion such as designers or model agents; for some others, the situation has turned out of control and is a genuine threat for their business as a whole. Websites partly or entirely dedicated to these models who are "switching agencies", speculation around girls who are said to leave their current management, insecure mother agents fearing for their best finds to let them down if a big network propose them money deals, overall instability. And so on. Can we call it "the new plague" of modeling? Will we see this trend slow down by itself or should the different players involved find legal or tacit ways to prevent it from getting worse? The topic is vast, the debate is open, the answers are still missing. Below is the first part of a global analysis of this odd situation hitting the modeling world.
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It would be wrong to say the phenomenon is new. It has always existed and will probably always exist, as long as modeling functions the way it does today. If such movements aren't exclusive to fashion and can be described as pretty common in other fields like sports, arts or finance, just to name a few, the business of modeling relies on a complex system where such sudden changes will immediately affect a lot of persons or companies involved at different levels. Most models were found by mother agents, most of them weren't only discovered in the streets, at the mall or online by these agents but were also prepared for their new life as models by them. In several countries of the world, those that are often considered as "export countries" as their national fashion market isn't very developed, training a new model and launching her career internationally is a significant investment in terms of time and money. A lot of mother agents rely on the success of their discoveries and are ready to put as much effort as possible to make it happen the best way. If they can't see any return, the waste of energy and the financial loss are quite huge, and many of them are rather small companies that can't afford losing their models. When you see how many new faces start their career every season and compare it to the tiny part of them who really manages to make it sustainable, the consequences can get disastrous pretty fast.
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BACKSTAGE As said earlier, model movements have always existed and the reasons behind weren't always the same in each case. Some models were simply following their manager who went from one company to another, and this happened several times with the assent of their mother agent. If all was always as simple as this, things would be easier for everyone involved. But reality often appears to be way trickier. When a model gets successful, her financial value gets higher for the retail agencies from New York, Paris etc. And it hasn't been that rare to see some of the strongest players proposing money deals to such established models or rising stars to sign an exclusive contract with them and leave their mother agent. We saw such conflicts arise between the mother agents and the management company they had initially placed their girl with. Or saw another agency mix into the game after this one proposed the model to leave both her mother agent and former managers. With the current instability hitting hard places like Paris or New York, the number of cases like this is rising. The market is pretty unsafe and every player wants to secure his part. Teams change, partnerships change, new agencies open, bookers have never moved so easily and so fast as today. When you gather all these conditions, you've got a perfect overview of the situation in a city like New York, for example. Surely, some big networks or well-established agencies face very few troubles. But even some of the safest companies around went through stormy moments and it is something that doesn't seem to stop lately. Who hasn't heard of the upcoming launch of Elite Europe's own office in the Big Apple? To do so, they need a team and will look for a time-proven, reputable one. Means some people will move from their current companies, means some models are likely to follow. Then, Elite, in Europe, is a huge network and no one could ever imagine they would open in North America with another idea in mind than managing the girls from their network there as well, directly. What's going to happen to their current partners, then?
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If the situation described above isn't directly hurting mother agencies, it won't take too long to hit them one way or another. The arrival of Elite Europe in New York's modeling market will definitely change the landscape in town. Let's be clear and honest, who will remain able to compete after that? The likes of Marilyn, New York Models or Elite NYC (not related to Elite Europe, by the way) and the big three, of course, namely IMG, Next and Women. Ford might be highly challenged as they currently represent a significant number of girls from Elite Europe. The competition will get more intense than ever and the only ones that can plan on a relative stability are the networks. If mother agents are thriving for competitive agencies able to bring their models to the next level, they'll get to cooperate more and more with these networks. With the advantages and disadvantages you may expect. Efficiency will be there, but will mother agents always be able to see their most basic rights respected? The contracts often leave only a tiny room for them (or the models themselves) to do so. In cases of legal troubles, actions will take place in New York City while many mother agencies are based in European countries and won't have the opportunity (for obvious reasons, financial and logistical) to fight back...
The difficulties they face in what is commonly called "main fashion markets" have led many mother agents to look for alternatives. A growing portion of them tends to turn to "secondary markets", said to be safer and juicier in terms of modeling jobs. Asia and similar places (Istanbul or commercial European markets) seem more attractive to many mother agencies who simply want to survive and invoice. Others will try themselves at direct booking, provided they have a local fashion market or good international connections with clients. This being said, the upper part of fashion, the biggest contracts and career-making opportunities still take place in the goodold fashion capitals (aka these main markets from above) and, at one moment or another, both mother agencies and agencies managing models in these cities will come to some kind of a dead end. Elite Europe surely have its own scouting network and doesn't rely that much on partnerships across the continent. IMG, Next and Women have some privileged partnerships with some mother agencies and might stay safe as well too. But for all those who aim to remain independent, the amount of options will start to diminish dramatically unless the business gets more ethical and fairer to every party. Throughout this review of the general situation, no model's name had appeared so far. But if one of them, coming straight from the recent news, has its place here, that would be Karlie Kloss. In itself, her agency change isn't much different from what has always happened in the business. Karlie is one of the most sought after models of her time and several girls in a similar case did it before. But, things were what they used to be back then and not what they seem to be during today's unsecure moments. Karlie's long relationship with her mother agency -Mother Model Management- and management company Next Models was often seen as a success story based on stability. While her departure wouldn't have shocked many only a few years ago, several mother agents felt uncomfortable seeing her leave Mother Model Management. Same situation, other signfication. The late evolution of the international modeling scene and the lack of influence of many smaller -yet essentialplayers once they have contributed to the launch and rise of a career have transformed the perception of such movements. This first part comes to an end and, many questions still remain without the shadow of an answer. But the complexity of the problem needed explanations before going straight to the heart of the topic: what responses do agencies have in hand to improve their current situation, how to make this business more ethical yet still competitive and efficient. That's what the second part will be made of, completed by the insight of people who are taking the issue seriously, with the firm intention to move some lines. To be continued...
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Max Mara (www.maxmara.com)
Inspiration:
M.I.L.I.T.A.R.I.S.M.
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1. YSL Sunglasses (www.ysl.com); 2. Luckies - Corkboard Map (www.connox.com); 3. Jeffrey Campbell Shoes (www.jeffreycampbellshoes.com); 4. Borders & Frontiers USA Shopper (www.asos.com); 5. Tivoli Audio – Accessories (www.tivoliaudio.com); 6. Barbour Tartan Tarras Bag (www.barbour.com); 7. T-Shirt “ZARA” (www.zara.com); 8. Shirt “TOPSHOP” (www.topshop.com); 9. Michael Kors Espresso And Khaki Oversized Chronograph Bracelet Watch (www.asos.com); 10. River Island Vintage Link Watch (www.riverisland.com); 11. Handbag “ZARA” (www.zara.com); 12. Ilse Jacobsen Rub 1 Army Boots (www.coggles.com); 13. Brionvega Algol TV (www.connox.com); 14. Peter Blake Star Cufflinks by Louisa Guinness Gallery (www.couturelab.com); 15. Zenh Camo Watch Green by NOOKA (www.nooka.com); 16. Tommy Hilfiger by Safilo (www.safilo.com); 17. PROENZA SCHOULER PS1 Medium Olive Satchel (www.ssense.com); 18. Shirt “TOPSHOP” (www.topshop.com); 19. Incase Reflex On-Ear Headphones (www.apple.com); 20. T-shirt “ZARA” (www.zara.com).
Kenzo (www.kenzo.com)
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1. DIESEL Pendant Necklace (www.diesel.com); 2. Shirt “ZARA” (www.zara.com); 3. Gucci Donna (www.gucci.com); 4. Borders & Frontiers UK Shopper (www.asos.com); 5. ASOS Cat Eye Sunglasses With Cut Away Detail (www.asos.com); 6. Hunter Wellies - Original Tall Green Boots (www.hunter-boot.com); 7. ASOS Animal Stud Waist Belt (www.asos.com); 8. Griffin Survivor + BeltClip for iPod touch, 4th Gen. (www.apple.com); 9. Ally Capellino Ava Grey Bag (www.coggles.com); 10. HI-JACK BLACK GREEN by DIESEL (www.diesel.com); 11. BELT by DIESEL (www.diesel.com); 12. Belkin Grip Candy TPU Case for iPhone 4 (www.apple.com); 13. Trousers “ZARA” (www.zara.com); 14. Holga CFN 120 Green (www.lomography.com); 15. Coat “ZARA” (www.zara.com); 16. Barbour Wax Amphion Bag (www.barbour.com); 17. Perfume DIESEL Fuel for Life (www.diesel.com); 18. Shoes “ZARA” (www.zara.com); 19. Del Toro Shoes (www. shopdeltoro.com); 20. Griffin Survivor + BeltClip for iPod touch, 4th Gen. (www.apple.com).
FASHION & STYLE C AT WA L K
Autumn/Winter 2012-2013 Fashion Trends: Militarism
10 Crosby Derek Lam
Acne
Aquascutum
Aquascutum
Barbara Bui
Barbara Bui
Damir Doma
Dries van Noten
Felipe Oliveira Baptista
Gary Graham
Givenchy
Hakaan
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Autumn/Winter 2012-2013 Fashion Trends: Militarism
Jen Kao
Kenzo
Loewe
Max Mara
Salvatore Ferragamo
Sonia Rykiel
Kenzo
Phenomenon
Unique
Lanvin
Salvatore Ferragamo
Unique
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“Volume 1”
by Robert Kalinkin
Photography: Reda Mickeviciute (www.redaphoto.com) Design & Style: Robert Kalinkin (www.robertkalinkin.com) Make Up: Greta Subataviciute Model: Agne Kuneviciute “Supermodels”
BOOK THIS MODEL
THEME
The
Jason Wu
Vampire Diaries
Fall fashion takes a walk on the dark side. One of the most exciting trends seen on the catwalks – 3 in 1 – Gothic History, Vampires and Dark Romance. Here are our picks of the best Gothic Romance pieces for AW 2012. Gothic fashion is back with metal, leather, lace and velvet crucifixes as accessories. Using delicate fabrics including silk and lace, the styling of this look gives a sexy look despite the shades of darkness.
Givenchy
Kate Moss for Salvatore Ferragamo F/W 2012 Campaign
Gucci
Gucci Damir Doma
Cross Charm Pearl Choker Necklace (www.asos.com)
Gareth Pugh
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THEME
Gucci F/W 2012 Campaign
Givenchy
Givenchy MINOTAUR T-shirt F/W 2012 Men
Cross Necklace and Mismatch Cross Earrings (www.asos.com)
Ulyana Sergeenko Givenchy
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Gucci F/W 2012 Campaign
Givenchy F/W 2012 Campaign
Givenchy
Ann Demeulemeester
Ulyana Sergeenko Love Rocks Cross Drop Earrings and Statement Cross Necklace (www.asos.com)
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THEME Versace
Making of Miss Dior Bag Fall Winter 2012 Ad Campaign
Stone Cross Drop Earrings (www.asos.com)
Just Acces Three Pack Of Cross Ear Cuffs (www.asos.com)
Rick Owens
Viktor & Rolf Roberto Cavalli Bing Bang Victorian Cross Ring (www.asos.com)
Rick Owens
Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci
Cross Charm Bracelet (www.asos.com)
Herve Leger Fall Winter 2012 Campaign Featuring Lina Zhang.
Versace
Rick Owens
Gareth Pugh
Christian Lacroix feat. O'shea Robertson.
Gareth Pugh
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Pull & Bear (www.pullandbear.com)
Inspiration:
B.L.A.C.K.
L.E.A.T.H.E.R.
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2. 1.
5. 3.
6.
7.
4.
9.
8. 11. 10.
12.
13.
15. 14.
16.
1. Belt “Zara” (www.zara.com); 2. Blouse “Zara” (www.zara.com); 3. Shoes “Zara” (www.zara.com); 4. SEE BY CHLOE Biker Jacket Keychain (www.ssense.com); 5. Gloves “Zara” (www.zara.com); 6. ALEXANDER WANG Black Prisma Wallet (www.ssense.com); 7. Leica X1 Black Embossed Ostrich (www.leica.com); 8. Handbag “Zara” (www.zara.com); 9. RICK OWENS Black Over The Knee Wedge Boots (www.ssense.com); 10. Shoes “Zara” (www.zara.com); 11. GIVENCHY Black Leather Obsedia Cuff (www.ssense.com); 12. Gloves “Zara” (www.zara.com); 13. GIVENCHY Black Rottweiler iPhone Case (www.ssense.com); 14. GIVENCHY Small Black Obsedia Bag (www.ssense.com); 15. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Black Studded Leather Pumps (www.ssense.com); 16. ALEXANDER WANG Black Matte Suede Emile Tote (www.ssense.com).
Alexander Wang (www.alexanderwang.com)
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4. 2. 1.
3.
5. 7.
6.
8.
9.
11.
10.
12.
16. 14. 13. 15.
1. MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Black Leather Tabi Gloves (www.ssense.com); 2. Belt “Zara” (www.zara.com); 3. Skirt “Zara” (www.zara.com); 4. WOMAN BY COMMON PROJECTS Black Leather Wingtip Brogues (www.ssense.com); 5. Jacket “Zara” (www.zara.com); 6. Shoes “Zara” (www.zara.com); 7. Globe-Trotter Fujifilm X-Pro1 (www.harrods.com); 8. Handbag “Zara” (www.zara.com); 9. Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox x Colette (www.colette.fr); 10. Jacket “Zara” (www.zara.com); 11. Handbag “Zara” (www.zara.com); 12. MARC BY MARC JACOBS Black Leather Turnlock Hobo Wallet (www.ssense.com); 13. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Black Leather Heroine Tote (www.ssense.com); 14. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Black Lamb Fur Ankle Boots (www.ssense.com); 15. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Black Frayed Patent Box Clutch (www.ssense.com); 16. Aiaiai TMA-1 Headphones (www.aiaiai.dk).
FASHION & STYLE C AT WA L K
Autumn/Winter 2012-2013 Fashion Trends: Leather
Alexander Wang
Alexander Wang
Alexander Wang
Alexander Wang
Ann Demeulemeester
Ann Demeulemeester
Fendi
Fendi
Hermes
Hermes
Hermes
Hermes
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Autumn/Winter 2012-2013 Fashion Trends: Leather
Loewe
Loewe
Loewe
Loewe
Francesco Scognamiglio
Francesco Scognamiglio
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton
DIOR
DIOR
Hakaan
Hakaan
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Design Made in Lithuania
Fallen Angels (necklace).
Obsidian, volcanic lava, titanium, jewellery metal (lead and nickel free), faux leather.
Jewelry collection: "Our Darkest Desires" Designer: Vilius Venckevicius Photography: Reda Mickeviciute Post-production: Tomas Sinkevicius Hair: Marijus Mazuraitis Make-up: Greta Subataviciute Model: Alina Lukosevic and Oskaras Tuba
„Our Darkest Desires“ by Vilius Venckevicius
Grandpa's Cap
5 panel cap with unique tapestry part on the side, adjustable size, embroidered Ă symbol. Available in three colors ruby, mustard, emerald. 25 â‚Ź
"The Spell" (ring).
Silver, smoky quartz, a freshwater pearl, glass, ceramics, volcanic lava.
"The Dark Medicine Man" (pomander necklace).
Agates, onyx, obsidian, volcanic lava, meteorite, ceramics, jewellery metal (lead and nickel free).
Design Made in Lithuania
Temptations (necklace).
Agates, titanium plated metal, jewellery metal (lead and nickel free), ceramics.
"The Black Perfumer" (necklace). Agates, onyx, obsidian, coral, an antique glass perfume vial (ceramic coated and bound in real leather), volcanic lava, jewellery metal (lead and nickel free).
"My First-born Son" (bracelet).
Onyx, agates, fossil, coral, obsidian, tourmalinated quartz, volcanic lava, ceramics, jewellery metal (lead and nickel free).
Design Made in Lithuania
"The Frozen Keymaker" (transformable necklace).
Genuine fur, rock crystal, sardonyx, tourmalinated quartz, coral, ceramics, an antique key.
"Remembering Lilu" (ring). Silver, rock crystal, glass, freshwater pearls, Swarovski crystal, ceramics.
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"A Roe-deer’s Tale" (necklace). Agates, sardonyxes, ceramics, a genuine roe-deer’s horn, jewellery metal (lead and nickel free).
"Duality" (necklace).
Rock crystal, quartz, Swarovski crystal, glass, silver plated metal, jewellery metal (lead and nickel free).
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Cool HUNTING 1.
2.
4. 5.
3.
Inspiration:
SPIKES
6.
7.
8. 10. “Pull & Bear” F/W 2012
9.
11.
13.
12.
1. Leather Jacket “Pull & Bear” (www.pullandbear.com); 2. Earrings “TOPSHOP” (www.topshop.com); 3. Sam Edelman Adena Stud Detail Satin Slippers (www.asos.com); 4. T-Shirt “Pull & Bear” (www.pullandbear.com); 5. DROME Leather Studded Moto Jacket (www.justoneeye.com); 6. Cristian Louboutin Shoes (www.christianlouboutin.com); 7. Ruthie Davis (www.ruthiedavis.com); 8. Cristian Louboutin Shoes (www.louboutinshoespace.net); 9. MCM Studded Backpack (www.luisaviaroma.com); 10. Absolut Vodka Rock Edition (www.absolut.com); 11. Alexander McQueen Classic Skull Clutch (www.alexandermcqueen.com); 12. ASOS Spiked Ring (www.asos.com); 13. Jeffrey Campbell’s Shoes (www.jeffreycampbellshoes.com).
3. 2.
1.
5. 4.
7. 6.
8.
“Pull & Bear” F/W 2012
Spike Hat
9.
10.
11.
1. Christian Louboutin Roxanne Medium Calf Gaia Black (www.saksfifthavenue.com); 2. MANGO Dress (www.mango.com); 3. Joomi Lim Earrings (www. joomilim.com); 4. Shorts “Pull & Bear” (www.pullandbear.com); 5. Maison Michel Hat (www. justoneeye.com); 6. Coat “ZARA“ (www.zara.com); 7. Carpathian Warrior Studded Bag by DORAABODI (www.notjustalabel.com); 8. ASOS Pendant (www.asos.com); 9. Christian Louboutin Spiked High-Top Black (www.neimanmarcus.com); 10. Limited Edition Metallic Spike Leather Cuff Bracelet (www.asos.com); 11. “Moschino Cheap and Chic” Petal Black Knit (www.coggles.com);
cool hunting 2. 3.
1.
4.
5.
6. 7.
Large Urchin Plant Pot by Kenneth Topp (www.couturelab.com)
8.
9.
Alexander McQueen F/W 2012
11.
10.
1. Grass Vase by Normann Copenhagen (www.normann-copenhagen.com); 2. Porcupine Bean Bag by Blackman Cruz Workshop (www.justoneeye.com); 3. ASOS MITCHELL Leather Flat Shoes with Spike Detail (www.asos.com); 4. T-Shirt “TOPSHOP” (www.topshop.com); 5. Rosenthal - Miniature Vase Fast (www.rosenthal.de); 6. Ruthie Davis Shoes (www.ruthiedavis.com); 7. Ruthie Davis Preaps Lady Peep Spikes (www.ruthiedavis.com); 8. Shoes “ZARA“ (www.zara.com); 9. Vest “TOPSHOP” (www.topshop.com); 10. Belt „ASOS“ (www.asos.com); 11. AILA Neon Yellow Spike Me Mini Bag With Silver Studs (www.my-wardrobe.com).
Sunday
Photography: Dainius Sciuka (www.sciuka.com) Make Up and Clothes: Burlesque.lt Style: Adele Paliokaite Models: Ugne Parseliunaite and Greta Matiukaite (“Supermodels”)
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BOOK THIS MODEL
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NEW FACES
NEW
Faces
Meet Matas! He is 18 years old and has started modeling just half a year ago almost by accident. Quite an interesting story this boy could tell about him becoming a model. His girlfriend is one of the best models in his mother agency. Once they have finished school Matas was very willing to travel together with her. This is how he became a model and most likely is going to be a very good one quite soon. Now at the early stage of his career, he is already full of good options from the best agencies all over the world. Lets see what happens with this amazing boy next!
Full name: Matas Ignatavicius Mother Agency: Supermodels Model Management Contact MA Nationality: Lithuanian Birth date: 21st May 1994 Height: 186 cm (6' 1.2") Bust: 91 cm (35,8) Waist: 73 cm (28,7) Hips: 87 cm (34,3) Eyes: Blue Hair: Blond
PROMOTE YOUR NEW FACE
Matas Ignatavicius
BOOK NOW
BACKSTAGE
Showtime Special:
a Short Review
of NYC Show Packages
Alexis Heim Showtime means showcards, at the beginning at least. In New York City more than anywhere else in the world, agencies compete to be the one with the most remarkable, creative, sophisticated show package. Often shot especially on that purpose or designed by various artists, sometimes followed by a short movie featuring the agency's girls; these last few years the efforts put into packaging have been all the rage. If things are starting to slow down a bit, the release of New York's show packages is still the event of the end of summer and a strong signal a new season is about to begin very soon.
Women Management: this season’s portrait of Irina Nikolaeva
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One Management wants you to vote for Harmony Boucher this season
Wilhelmina’s Wild Willy could have been inspired by Ava’s fantastic editorial work
If the climax of that trend could be over already, we can't really say the trend itself is about to stop. The heyday of show packages was probably when Supreme's cards were able to raise controversy when it comes to the way they introduced their models or when Women, under Louie's reign, used to release packages that were as heavy as your dictionary (I still own a sample in my living room, each model had no less than four pictures and cards were folded). Compared to this, the new season's visuals are pretty sober but no one has given up creativity yet. Ford's current aesthetic is flirting with a retro mood, as a tribute paid by Paul Rowland to Eileen Ford while One Management found inspiration in the electoral atmosphere of this year.
IMG Models: Anabela revamped by illustrator Danny Roberts
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Backstage
NEXT: always true to the agency’s aesthetics and trademark
Ford Models: Paul Rowland’s tribute to iconic agent Eileen Ford
IMG hired illustrator Danny Roberts to spice up the look of their Spring 2013 package. Women's cards are simple but hit their target, using black and white polaroid-like images, a strategy that seems both discreet and distinctive. Meanwhile, Wilhelmina released some military jackets together with the package and reminds us seasonal goodies are still a very valuable extra this september. Next remains Next, season after season. Same look, same fonts, same color scheme: it's all classic and classy, spelling expensive and efficient. I could go on with that list and mention Fusion, Elite, Trump and the others that made the effort to craft their agency's brand identity as well as those who went for a more classical or minimalist approach. But the essential is said: New York is still the city where image and imagery play the biggest role in modeling.
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Heterogeneous Mix
by Charles & Keith
Charles & Keith Signature Label Autumn Winter 2012 collection maneuvers into an alleyway of the fashion world with preeminence on snakeprints and polished finishing. Heterogeneous Mix emblematize material paneling of exotic skins with leathers, emanating a fresh air of sophistication that unshackles from the customary monochromatic tints of preceding autumns. Alluring and seductive, The Siren collection teases with its sexy cuts and fetish minutiae. Shop online at www.CharlesKeith.com
THEME
The Trend for
OVERSIZE on the Rise! This autumn, fashion is all about one size: Oversize!
Kenzo
...cocoon coats, pillow-sleeved jackets, billowing trousers and softly structured skirts enveloping the collections. This autumn, fashion is all about one size: Oversize! Get in on the runway trend from Balenciaga, Celine, Jil Sander and more with these luxurious oversize coats.
Balenciaga
Balenciaga
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Chloe
E
While oversize fashion can seem a little scary to try, it can actually be quite cool and comfy. Now that autumn's here, it's time to incorporate the oversize trend into your look. That's what designers must have thought for this F/W season. Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Chloe
Gucci
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THEME Acne
"Oversize was the cool new message this season: shoulders were dropped, lengths were long and trousers had low crotches," Vogue fashion director Lucinda Chambers explains. "It's a look ideal for a confident tomboy who likes to keep things simple, strict and streamlined." Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Balenciaga
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Balmain
Acne Francesco Scognamiglio
Kenzo
Celine
Kenzo
Photography: Marina Dean-Francis (www.marinadeanfrancis.com) Make-up: Katy Pheiffer (www.katypheiffer.com) Hair styling: Amy Harding Post-production: Mdf retouching (www.mdfretouching.com) Model: Sara Lou Thomas @ Gingersnap
FASHION BOOK
The art of anti-fashion Yohji Yamamoto:
The fashion designer who redesigned fashion As one of the most mentally rigorous designers working in fashion, Yohji Yamamoto creates garments that can be intellectual—sometimes even difficult—yet always beautiful. Yohji’s free-spirited world is explored here via i-D magazine’s archives starting back in the 1980s, including his adoration for women and the female form, the painful process of creating antifashion through fashion and how his timeless utilitarian designs can be both avantgarde and classic at once. Packed into 120 pages is biographical and personal information as well as imagery from over 30 years of i-D's history with images from photographers including Paolo Roversi, Max Vadukul, and Nick Knight, plus interviews with Jamie Huckbody, Holly Shackleton, and Terry Jones.
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Grandpa's Cap
5 panel cap with unique tapestry part on the side, adjustable size, embroidered à symbol. Available in three colors ruby, mustard, emerald. 25 €
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FASHION BOOK
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