Jackson Hole Magazine // Summer 2023 by Teton Media Works, Inc.

Jackson Hole WINTER 2024

WINTER WONDERLAND Ski touring across Yellowstone’s southwestern corner.

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WINTER DRIVING

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Mountain Standard is a team of real estate agents affiliated with Compass, a licensed real estate broker and abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only. Information is compiled from sources deemed reliable but is subject to errors, omissions, changes in price, condition, sale, or withdrawal without notice. This is not intended to solicit property already listed. Photos may be virtually staged or digitally enhanced and may not reflect actual property conditions.

SLOPE-SIDE AT FOUR SEASONS Whether you’re craving a casual meal in between runs, sophisticated mountain steakhouse for a celebratory meal, or a night cap after a day of adventure, Four Seasons offers a variety of dining experiences.

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80 years of combined real estate experience in Jackson Hole. Compass is a licensed real estate broker and abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only. Information is compiled from sources deemed reliable but is subject to errors, omissions, changes in price, condition, sale, or withdrawal without notice. This is not intended to solicit property already listed. Photos may be virtually staged or digitally enhanced and may not reflect actual property conditions.

An Elevated Approach to Banking Bank of Jackson Hole is proud to provide the full range of financial services. We are committed to helping our clients and communities achieve their financial goals through Private Banking services, offering competitive rates on deposit and loan products and more. 307.732.BOJH | BOJH.COM DIVISION OF NBH BANK. NMLS 465954

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FEATURES JACKSON HOLE WINTER 2024

ON THE COVER: Taylor Phillips skis along the Ferris Fork of the Bechler River deep in the Yellowstone National Park backcountry during a multiday, 32-mile winter excursion from Old Faithful to the Bechler Ranger Station in the southwest corner of the park. Phillips did this trip with photographer Taylor Glenn. Read and see more about the pair's adventure in Glenn's photo essay on page 130.

104

TO THE RESCUE Teton County Search and Rescue volunteers are on 24/7 to help locals and visitors in need. BY HELEN OLSSON

116

HUNGRY JACK'S, NOW & THEN How community unity and local support helped breathe new life in Wilson’s beloved general store. BY BEVIN WALLACE

122 WILD, AGAIN

Animals that escaped from their outdoors exhibit more than a half century ago led to the modern day Jackson bison herd —Wyoming’s only herd of wild bison outside of Yellowstone National Park. BY MIKE KOSHMRL

130

WINTER WONDERL AND

136

LITTLE RIPPERS Kids that grow up skiing Jackson Hole are a different breed of mountain athlete.

18 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

BY DINA MISHEV & BRIGID MANDER

TAY LO R G L E N N

PHOTOGRAPHY & TEXT BY TAYLOR GLENN

LEARN WHY

WE’RE THE HIGHEST RATED ADVENTURES IN JACKSON HOLE 3,266

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GRAND TETON & YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARKS Wildlife Safaris, Snowshoe & XC Ski Tours

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CONTENTS JACKSON HOLE WINTER 2024

ENJOY

BY JIM MAHAFFIE

Good Reads

Teton Pass Parking

ALL YOU NEED

JACKSON HOLE ICON

42 54

HELLO

Meet Lindsey Johnson, Jessyca Valdez, and Larry Hartenstein BLAST FROM THE PAST

Trail Creek Ranch BY JIM STANFORD

20 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

Wyoming Wine

TASTE OF JACKSON HOLE

Snake River Grill's Potato Pancake ART

Old & New

BY MAGGIE THEODORA

CULTURE

Still a Hoot

BY JIM STANFORD

Jackson Hole Moose

BY DAKOTA RICHARDSON

JH PANTRY

BY SAMANTHA SIMMA

Ski (and Snowboard) Jackets BY DINA MISHEV

Wyoming Winter Driving GO DEEP

In the Raw

BY HELEN OLSSON

Marc Hirschfield

BY BEVIN WALLACE

MY JACKSON HOLE LIFE BY MOLLY ABSOLON

FOOD

BY HELEN OLSSON

ANATOMY OF

BY BRIGID MANDER

BOOKS

BY JIM MAHAFFIE

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Brandon Harrison

144

AUDREY HALL

REBECCA NOBLE

EXPLORE

DEREK STAL

LOCAL LIFE

DESIGN

Hot Stuff

BY LILA EDYTHE

144

Winter in the Wild

152

Wearable Art

BY DINA MISHEV

160 The Season for Sliding BY BRIGID MANDER

162 JACKSON HOLE MAP 164

CALENDAR

HEALTH

Holistic Healing

BY BEVIN WALLACE

166 AS THE HOLE DEEPENS BY TIM SANDLIN

CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE

Visitors Coming? Can They Hack the Winter? BY WHITNEY ROYSTER

JHADVENTURERANCH.COM

(307) 413-9300

backcountrysafarisjh

HOWDY

DEREK STAL

EDITOR'S LETTER

aving lived in Jackson Hole—studying its history; exploring its mountains, trails, and rivers; and interviewing its amazing residents—for 26 years, I rarely learn lots of new things and have lots of new experiences while putting together an issue of Jackson Hole magazine. That was not the case with this winter’s issue of the magazine, though. An example: I had no idea that today’s Jackson Bison Herd—one of the only herds of wild bison allowed to exist on a Western landscape today—comprises decedents of a handful of bison that were brought south from Yellowstone to be kept captive in a wildlife viewing park near Grand Teton National Park in the 1940s. Read more about the Jackson Bison Herd in “Wild Again,” which starts on page 122. And that was just the tip of the iceberg. One of the perks of being editor of a magazine is that it is the editor’s job to assign stories. A perk of being an editor and a writer is that you can assign yourself the stories that are most interesting to you. I have bought and tried to wear a total of six cowboy-ish hats since I moved here in 1997. Each time, in the store, I thought these hats were cute on me. Each time, back at home and in real life, I saw that I actually looked like an assclown—a

22 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

mountain athlete trying to play cowgirl. Having seen several hats from boutique hat maker JW Bennett around town on a variety of people who were definitely not cowboys or -girls and thinking that they decidedly did not look like assclowns, I assigned myself the Explore story about making a custom cowboy hat, “Wearable Art,” on page 152. Spoiler alert: I’ve now got a hat that I love and in which I do not look ridiculous. Photojournalist Lina Collado Garcia directed her creativity to the written word to share the story of Jessyca Valdez, whose bilingual photography exhibit Sentimientos de Pertenencia (Feelings of Belonging) taught me a lot about the immigrant experience in Jackson Hole. Read about Valdez and her exhibit on page 46. Journalist Bevin Wallace, who doubles as Jackson Hole magazine’s staggeringly good copy editor, taught me so much about pain management using complementary therapies in “Holistic Healing,” page 90. And then there are stories that share some of my favorite parts of Jackson Hole history and go-to winter activities. Jim Stanford wrote about the history of Trail Creek Ranch, founded by one of the many strong women who called the valley home in the middle of the last century, Betty Woolsey, in “Off the Beaten Track,” page 54. Brigid Mander’s “The Season for Sliding,” page 160, should get you stoked to go Nordic skiing while you’re here. And we got a Jackson Hole Moose hockey player, Dakota Richardson, to write about why the semi-pro team is a Jackson Hole Icon, page 40. As always, I hope you enjoy reading this issue of Jackson Hole magazine as much as I, and the rest of the team, have enjoyed working on it. — DINA MISHEV @JACKSONHOLEMAG

matter pursuit, NoNo matter thethe pursuit, thethe right guide matters. right guide matters.

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Jackson Hole W I N T E R 2024 // J A C K S O N H O L E M A G A Z I N E.C O M

What is your favorite place to après?

Back at the trailhead, while debriefing a great day in the backcountry.

Dornans in Moose. I start looking forward to its spinach artichoke dip and pizza before I’m halfway up my first run.

I don’t really après, but High Point Cider (in Victor) often has things like bingo night or trivia.

In my truck—heading home from the trailhead chugging chocolate milk and eating a cinnamon raisin bagel from Pearl Street Bagels.

PUBLISHER Adam Meyer EDITOR Dina Mishev ART DIRECTOR Elise Mahaffie PHOTO EDITOR Bradly J. Boner COPY EDITOR Bevin Wallace CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Molly Absolon Lila Edythe Lina Collado Garcia Taylor Glenn Mike Koshmrl Jim Mahaffie Brigid Mander Helen Olsson Dakota Richardson Whitney Royster Tim Sandlin Samamtha Simma Jim Stanford Maggie Theodora Bevin Wallace CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Ryan Dorgan Lina Collado Garcia Luke Gentry Taylor Glenn Audrey Hall Matthew Millman Derek Stal Jessyca Valdez Morris Weintraub Adam Wirth Kathryn Zeisig

The RPK3 deck—preferably eating nachos and drinking beer. It’s even better when the Music Under the Tram series starts in the spring!

With a pint of IPA at Grand Teton Brewery in Victor.

My bed. If there’s any chance I’m skiing, the recovery will be significant.

Calico. I don’t know what I love more—discounted spicy margs during happy hour or its cozy fireplace.

The Mangy Moose. Getting loose at the Mangy Moose is casual, laid-back, and so much fun.

ADVERTISING SALES Alyson Klaczkiewicz DIGITAL CAMPAIGN MANAGER Tatum Mentzer AD DESIGN & PRODUCTION Sarah Wilson Luis F. Ortiz Heather Haseltine Lydia Redzich Chelsea Robinson DISTRIBUTION Jayann Carlisle Oscar Garcia Perez

Kevin B. Olson, CEO P.O. Box 7445, Jackson, WY 83002 | 307/732-5900 ©2024 Jackson Hole magazine. All rights reserved. No part of this production may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher. No responsibility will be assumed for unsolicited editorial contributions. Manuscripts or other material to be returned must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope adequate to return the material. Jackson Hole magazine is published semiannually. Send subscription requests to: Jackson Hole magazine, P.O. Box 7445, Jackson, Wyoming 83002. 307/732-5900. Email: dina@jhmagazine.com. Visit jacksonholemagazine.com.

24 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

Improving Lives Through Philanthropic Leadership

cfjacksonhole.org

HELEN OLSSON (“In the Raw,” p. 64 and “To the Rescue,” p. 104) is the author of The Down & Dirty Guide to Camping with Kids and editor of Modern Luxury Peak. She lives with her husband and three kids (two of whom are in and out of the nest) in Boulder, Colorado. She started her career as an editor at Skiing, and when the magazine moved from New York, she relocated west. Her stories have appeared in The New York Times, Aspen Magazine, Big Sky Life, and Ski. When she’s not writing, she’s skiing, hiking, camping, and otherwise getting after it in the outdoors.

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26 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

LINDLEY RUST

CARLO NASISSE

CONTRIBUTORS LINA COLLADO GARCIA (“Hello: Jessyca Valdez,” p. 46) first came to Jackson in 2013 from Puerto Rico, where she was born and raised. Lina is a freelance photojournalist who mainly undertakes long-term projects and commissioned editorial work. Her personal work focuses on identity, community, and cultural values. When she isn’t photographing, she is the director of outreach at the local nonprofit Teton Literacy Center. She lives in town with her husband, Graham, and their two dogs, Albondigas and Nala.

TIM SANDLIN has been writing “As the Hole Deepens,” p. 166, for 30 years. “This is it. Last one,” he says. “America has gotten so bizarre there is no place for exaggerated humor. The country is exaggerated without my help. I thank the owners, publishers, and editors of Jackson Hole magazine for putting up with my paranoid ramblings. My parents brought me to this valley in 1959. It’s been a remarkable journey, but now I’m going somewhere else. So Long and Thanks for All the Fish.” Sandlin's ATHD columns are anthologized in the book Somewhat True Tales of Jackson Hole.

COURTESY PHOTO

CAROL CHESNEY

CONTRIBUTORS BIRGITTA SIF was born in Reykjavik, Iceland, and was a graphic artist for the Jackson Hole News&Guide in the mid-2000s and has been illustrating Tim Sandlin’s “As the Hole Deepens” column, p. 166, for the last 17 years. She is an associate lecturer for the Cambridge School of Art and the author and illustrator of more than 15 children’s books. Sif lives in the U.K. with her partner, Thor, and their two daughters, Sóley and Salka. @birgittasif

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WE SERVE CLIENTS IN 11 STATES, INCLUDING JACKSON, WYOMING.

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JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

LOCAL LIFE PEOPLE AND PL ACES THAT ARE JACKSON HOLE

28 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

A FISHERMAN CASTS for trout in the Snake River during a January fishing excursion below Jackson Lake

B R A D LY J . B O N E R

Dam in Grand Teton National Park. Die-hard anglers in Jackson Hole don't let winter weather get in the way of their favorite pastime.

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

LOCAL LIFE LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Brandon Harrison He grew up working at his family’s iconic hotel in downtown Jackson. But for the past four years, Harrison hasn’t been working at the Rusty Parrot, but on the Rusty Parrot.

ROWLAND+BROUGHTON

// BY JIM MAHAFFIE

B R A D LY J . B O N E R

30 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

randon Harrison has a huge personal investment in the Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa, which was one of Jackson Hole’s first luxury boutique hotels when it opened in 1990. The property was conceived of by his father, Ron Harrison, and Brandon was a part-timer on the construction crew that built it. A freshman at Jackson Hole High School at the time, Harrison was on the alpine ski team, played football, and ran track. Still, after his classes and sports practices were finished for the day, he headed over to the construction site on North Jackson Street and peeled logs, carried drywall, and even operated an excavator. Once there was enough of a building to live in, Harrison even moved into a guestroom. (He continued to live at the lodge even after it was finished and welcoming guests. “The day I left for college in 1993 my parents began renting my room out,” he says.) It was after construction ended that Harrison’s real work at the Rusty Parrot began. During his sophomore, junior, and senior years in high school, the summers between his years in college (at University of Colorado at Boulder), and after college, Harrison did almost every job at the lodge, from washing dishes to kitchen prep, front desk, reservations, and bellman. “I

LOCAL LIFE BOOKS

worked my way through the ranks,” he says. “After college, I came back to the lodge and was interested in learning management skills.” Harrison took a break from the Rusty Parrot in 2004 to develop Hiddenwaters, a housing subdivision outside of Victor, Idaho, but returned in 2008. “The creative part of development—creating a new neighborhood—appealed to me,” he says. “My dad was a developer, and I grew up seeing the tangible developments he created. I wanted to experience that.” Returning to the Rusty Parrot in 2008, Harrison, who had earned an MBA from the University of Wyoming, took over as general manager. Under Ron and Brandon, the Rusty Parrot received four diamonds from AAA for 22 consecutive years and was rated one of the best hotels in the world by publications including Travel + Leisure and Condé Nast Traveler. But in 2019, after 29 years serving guests, a fire left the Rusty Parrot almost a total loss. The family never wavered on whether they would rebuild or not, though. “The hotel was always our pride and passion,” says Harrison, who is now 48-years-old. “We had every intention of rebuilding and continuing the Rusty Parrot’s tradition in Jackson—a lodge with a character that is in harmony with the character of our surroundings.” For the last four years, Harrison has been spearheading the rebuilding of the Rusty Parrot; it is expected to welcome its first guests in January 2024. Now married and a father to one teenager and one tween, this time Harrison did not live in one of the lodge’s guest rooms. That’s not the only difference. “When my dad first envisioned the Rusty Parrot, he was a developer but not a hotel operator,” he says. “In planning the rebuild, we wanted to maintain the character but also improve on and correct what we didn’t get right first time around. We like to say that we’re a new lodge with an old soul. We’re going to be very recognizable for people who have stayed with us before, and we’re looking forward to showing Jackson guests our new amenities and modern touches.” The new amenities and modern touches include heated, underground parking; an expanded Wild Sage restaurant; and an improved spa experience. Previously the Body Sage Spa, run by Harrison’s sister, Heidi, was in a separate building; its six treatment rooms now occupy most of the hotel’s first floor. The best things remain unchanged, however. There are still warm cookies for guests every afternoon. It’s still an intimate property (it has only 38 guest rooms and two suites). And, amazingly, much of the property’s original art collection, which was damaged in the fire, was able to be restored. This collection is eclectic and includes pieces from the sculpture from which the lodge took its name— “It’s just made of some rusty tin, with not a lot of artistic merit. But it’s very sentimental,” Harrison says—to masterworks from the genres of Western and wildlife art. And, of course, Harrison is back as general manager. JH

Good Reads

// BY JIM MAHAFFIE

WESTERN LEGENDS Give Your Heart to the Hawks Win Blevins This past July, Win Blevins passed away after an extraordinary lifetime, during which he wrote nearly 40 fiction and nonfiction books about Western lore, Native American leaders, lifestyle, and spirituality. Give Your Heart to the Hawks is a tribute to mountain men; written more than 50 years ago, it recently returned to The New York Times bestseller list. FOR KIDS (AND EVERYONE) Fire Shapes the World Joanna Cooke Fire is scary but also transformative and really cool when you learn more about it. This child-friendly book delivers lessons for any age about the ecology of fire. The author and her illustrators, Cornelia Li and Diāna Renžina, show how fauna, flora, and humans have responded to the way fire ravages and renews what it touches. The lesson is that fire doesn’t just destroy, but that it has benefits and we need to learn to coexist with it. OUR FAVORITE BEAR Grizzly 399: The World’s Most Famous Mother Bear Thomas D. Mangelsen (Photographer), Anderson Cooper (Foreword), Todd Wilkinson (Contributor) Tom Mangelsen has been photographing Grizzly 399 and her extended bear family for more than 20 years. Documenting the many miracles in her long life, conservation writer Todd Wilkinson joins him in this intimate view of the iconic bear and how she has taught so many about grizzlies, public lands, and the intersection between wilderness and people. FIND NEW ADVENTURES Select Peaks of the Greater Yellowstone: A Mountaineering History and Guide Tom Turiano First published in 2003, Select Peaks is considered indispensable by local adventurers. Author Turiano just released a second edition that he says is more of a rewrite than an update. His 107 “select peaks”—in mountain ranges across the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem; think the Madison, Gallatin, Beartooth, Absaroka, Wind River, Gros Ventre, Wyoming, Salt River, Snake River, and Teton Ranges—have not changed, but histories, route descriptions, and photos have gotten an upgrade. JH

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

LOCAL LIFE ANATOMY OF

Teton Pass Parking // BY BRIGID MANDER

ccording to local backcountry skiing old timers—as in anyone who backcountry skied in the 1980s or earlier—the summit pullout on Teton Pass was never crowded in winter. Because of the potential for avalanches, it wasn’t until April, maybe March, when warming temperatures made the snowpack more stable, that skiers ventured to this area. But, with improved ski-touring gear and avalanche-rescue equipment, this has changed. Today, five parking areas off of Wyoming Highway 22—only two of which are actual parking lots; the others are meant to be truck brakecheck pullouts and/or snowplow turnarounds— that offer access to Teton Pass’s backcountry are jam-packed from dawn to dark and early to late season. Issues have arisen between skiers, highway users, and the Wyoming Department of Transportation, which maintains Highway 22 and plows the five areas. Since 2005, longtime local backcountry skier Jay Pistono has been a Teton Pass Ambassador working to smooth over these issues. At first, his was a volunteer position, but as skier traffic increased, it became a fulltime job (funded by the Bridger-Teton National Forest and Friends of Pathways) that relies on volunteer ambassadors for additional help. The ambassadors’ goals are to guide people to use the parking areas in a way that is considerate of other skiers, traffic, and snowplows; to improve human (and canine ski companion) safety; and to make the Pass user experience better and more positive for everyone. While the parking lots are decidedly different, at whichever one you park, good etiquette is to: 1) Park tight to adjacent cars; if you can only get the driver’s door 75 percent open, you’ve done a good parking job. 2) Get ready at the back of your vehicle; once parked, rather than stand alongside your car as you put on your boots and organize your gear, move to the back to do this and allow the next car to park close to yours. 3) Keep your dog on a leash until you’re away from the parking lot.

32 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

1. At the base of the west side of the Pass, the Coal Creek parking lot is, like Old Pass Road, an official parking lot. Grab one of its 30-some spots to access south-side objectives like Mail Cabin and the Do It Chutes, or head north and skin or boot-pack up Mt. Taylor. It is also possible to ski to Coal Creek from the summit of Mt. Glory; skiers doing this sometimes leave a car shuttle here.

2. The Summit Lot is the crown jewel of Teton Pass parking, even if it’s not meant to be a parking lot (it’s a WYDOT turnout and brake-check area). From here, it’s an easy skin out to south-side terrain or a straight shot up the Glory boot-pack. Because of this, the approximately 60 spots are usually taken by 6:30 most mornings (even on non-powder days). Cars come and go throughout the day—most locals are parked here between one and three hours as they do a lap or two—and skiers waiting for a spot line up in order of arrival (the line usually goes west to east).

3. Until relatively recently, the Summit Overflow Lot was forlorn and empty. Several hundred meters below the top of the Pass, it’s just that much farther from the skin tracks and boot-pack at the top. Now its 25ish spots fill up in short order as soon as the summit lot is full. Although it’s only a few hundred meters from here to the summit lot, please do not walk up the highway to get to the top. Instead, slap on skins, clamber up the snowbank, and skin to the top; this keeps you, highway commuters, and WYDOT workers safer.

3 5

4. On the south side of the road a little more than three miles above Wilson is the Phillips Bench parking lot, which is technically a WYDOT turnout. Across the highway from the Pass’s only motorized access—a small slice between the wilderness boundary and the non-motorized recreation areas—this parking lot has room for about 15 vehicles and is favored by snowmobilers.

5. Take a left-hand turn one mile up Highway 22 from downtown Wilson onto Old Pass Road and you can drive one mile before the road is closed to cars and there’s a trailhead and parking lot with room for about 15 cars. Although as full as any other Pass parking lot, this one feels calm because it’s removed from the high-speed traffic of Highway 22. This parking lot also has the most diversity of user groups: alpine and Nordic skiers, dogwalkers, snowshoers, fat bikers, and runners—if it doesn’t require a motor, someone will be doing it from this lot. While the road is closed to cars, it’s open to non-motorized users; the top of Teton Pass is about four miles above the parking lot. Alpine ski tourers also park here and skin to the top of the Pass, or drop a car here, shuttle or hitch to the top of the pass, and ski back down to Old Pass Road (many of the runs south of the Pass’s summit dump skiers out onto Old Pass Road). This is one of the two official Pass parking lots. JH

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

B R A D LY J . B O N E R

LOCAL LIFE MY JACKSON HOLE LIFE

Marc Hirschfield // BY MOLLY ABSOLON

B R A D LY J . B O N E R

Marc Hirschfield’s first memories of Jackson Hole are of fly fishing on the Snake River.

34 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

e was 6 years old. It was 1972, and the Hirschfield family—mom Berte, dad Alan, sister Laura, and brother Scott—were visiting from Westchester County, New York. They came to fish, float the Snake and camp along its banks, and stay at the Crescent H Ranch near Wilson. Today Crescent H Ranch is a subdivision, and the family’s favorite campsite—a special spot where they’d have fish fries on the beach—has been transformed into the Snake River Sporting Club. But these early trips are why Hirschfield and his wife, Anise Morrow, live in Jackson Hole today. When Hirschfield, now 57-years-old, hit high school and college, he spent his summers working in Jackson Hole. He did a stint as a ranch hand at the Crescent H and in retail at Jack Dennis, a store that specialized in fly-fishing and outdoor gear. In 1988, he became a flyfishing guide. One of the most stressful things for him was figuring out which of the Snake’s many braided channels led back into the main river. “Pacific Creek to Deadmans Bar was my favorite section to float,” says Hirschfield, who, as much as he loves fishing, dislikes the taste of trout. “I didn’t like to eat the fish we caught,” he says. He had no problems cleaning them, though. “I loved cleaning them, which made me popular.” Hirschfield met his wife in California, and he introduced her to Jackson Hole soon thereafter. In 1995, they moved to the valley from California to start a family. “We were ready to get out of LA,” he says. “Both Anise and I love Jackson. Plus, Anise’s dad was nearby cattle ranching in Carey, Idaho, so it seemed like a good place for us.” When the oldest of their three kids—they have two sons and one daughter—was in eighth grade, the family moved to California, largely because they missed the ocean. But in California, they’d miss Jackson, and they so came back to visit frequently. In 2022, the couple’s youngest kid left home for college and they lost little time getting back to Jackson Hole full-time.

HERE MARC SHARES SOME HIGHLIGHTS FROM HIS JACKSON HOLE LIFE.

MARC HIRSCHFIELD

COMING AROUND TO WINTER When I was growing up, Jackson wasn’t about skiing for my family, but we were skiers; we traveled West—mainly to Colorado—to ski. I started skiing in Jackson in 1985, after my parents finished building their house here. I remember Scott and I first hiked Teton Pass in 1988 with two friends. We had very little clue of what to do. I was on a snowboard, and Scott was on telemark skis. We came down in breakable crust. Sometimes we’d build kickers in Telemark Bowl, and eventually we figured out how to come off Glory. We crafted our own snowboard boots by taking the liners out of our Sorels, and replacing them with ski boot liners. Anise and I started snowboarding the Pass together in the early 1990s. A great winter day is hiking Glory and skiing an epic untracked powder run down Second Turn. It’s a great line top to bottom.

COACHING KIDS In 1997 I helped launch the first girls’ soccer team in the valley. At that time, a few girls played with the boys’ team, but most of the girls had no soccer experience. They’d never even seen the game played on television. But they were athletic and wanted to play. (Last spring, the Jackson Hole High School Lady Broncs soccer team won the Wyoming 4A West Conference title.) Now I coach 2010 (U14) boys soccer for Jackson Hole Youth Soccer. For me, coaching is about more than teaching soccer skills. It’s about teaching good life skills, helping kids learn to work in a team, be a good teammate and a good member of a community. You can’t be a great soccer player without developing your human side as well.

I was an All-American soccer player at Middlebury College and even played some at the semi-pro level in San Francisco after college. There was no pro outdoor soccer in the U.S. when I graduated. Jackson started a club team in the 1970s, and I joined in the summer of 1985. We were a mix of ski patrollers, legendary locals, and a few college players. Some of the players are familiar names around the valley: Angus Thuermer Jr., Ted Jonke, Dave Niles, Jacques Sarthou, and Duncan McClelland, among others. We’d play other ski towns and hosted our own tournament. STEVE REMICH

PHOTO CREDIT

SOCCER

In the 1990s, Joe Rice, another restaurateur and soccer fan, and I helped get synthetic playing fields built near the high school. It was clear that with Jackson’s long, snowy winters, grass fields prevented young players from getting critical practice time. Grass fields don’t work here. You can’t plow them, so our kids used to play their first games of the season without even having a chance to practice outside. BETTY ROCK CAFE

TURKEY CRAN-PESTO

Jackson didn’t really have any sandwich shops or cafes when Anise and I moved here in 1995. She had honed a concept for a great bagel shop in California, but it turned out Jackson already had Pearl Street [Bagels], so we shifted to a restaurant that served good-quality, upscale sandwiches, soups, baked goods, and salads. It was the first of its kind and was incredibly successful from day one. Two or three days in, we had lines out the door and that didn’t stop until we decided Betty Rock had run its course. We sold the cafe in 2003.

I was never professionally trained as a chef, but I’m pretty obsessed with food after being in the restaurant business for years. I love good food. My specialty is a sandwich with turkey, dried cranberries, and pesto on ciabatta bread. The TCP [turkey cran-pesto] was a favorite at Betty Rock. We’d tried something similar in LA, but I knew we could improve on it. The key was the bread. We developed the recipe for the ciabatta prior to opening Betty Rock, and baked it daily at the café. It’s still a favorite in my family, and it is on the menu at the newly reopened Hungry Jack’s. (Read more about Hungry Jack’s on page 116.) JH

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

LOCAL LIFE ALL YOU NEED

Wyoming Winter Driving // BY BEVIN WALLACE

THE ESSENTIALS

Sure, you can toss any winter hat in your car, but why not make it something cheery, washable, and recycled, like the Cotopaxi Teca Fleece Beanie? $25, cotopaxi.com The Wyoming Department of Transportation lists tire chains as the first item motorists should have in their cars. Jumper cables are another must-have. A staple with ski town locals, Kinco’s 1927KW gloves are made from premium-grain pigskin and canvas with high-performance insulation. Their hardware store price makes them the perfect choice for a pair, that as Teton County Search and rescue volunteer Jen Reddy says, “live in the car.” $36, kinco.com A packable down jacket is a useful and cozy addition to your winter kit. The Rocka&Rolla Packable Down Puffer Jacket comes with its own stuff sack and can be taken anywhere you need extra warmth. $169, rockarolla.com In case you don’t keep food in your car, stock up on nonperishables such as trail mix and energy bars. Kate’s Real Food Bars are locally owned, organic, and tasty. $30/case of 12, katesrealfood.com “I had stopped having a physical map in my car,” Reddy says. “And then we were driving through Montana with no service, and I realized you need that paper map behind the seat.” The National Geographic Road Atlas 2024: Adventure Edition has a plastic cover to protect it from whatever else lurks behind your seat. $25, natgeomaps.com Make sure you have an insulated water bottle that won’t freeze. And water. The leak-proof Purist Founder 32oz. keeps water hot for 12 hours. $56, puristcollective.com “Have appropriate outdoor attire, especially winter boots,” Reddy says. “I really like Bogs.” The Whiteout Faded has a grippy sole and minus58-degree comfort rating. It will keep cold, wet feet from adding to your problems if you get stuck. The men’s version is the Bozeman Trail. $160, bogsfootwear.com

36 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

ESSENTIAL THINGS AND BONUS GEAR TO HAVE IN YOUR VEHICLE TO MAKE WINTER DRIVING SAFER. BONUS GEAR

“In the winter I certainly have a shovel and a tow strap,” Reddy says. “If you get stuck, those are the things you’ll need.” The Voilé Telepro Avalanche Shovel has an extended telescoping handle that adds efficiency and reduces back strain. $72, voile.com Throw some HotHands in your glove compartment or console. They heat up to 118 degrees and stay warm for six hours. $25/case of 40, hothands.com If you do get in an accident or come upon one, the Fire Escape Multitool Carabiner from Outdoor Element could save a life. It features a seatbelt cutter, a window breaker, a fire-starting spark wheel, and two wrenches—all built into a 1.6-ounce carabiner. $27, outdoorelement.com Stranded motorists will be thankful for a warm blanket. The Rab Outpost 700 is a rectangular sleeping bag that can be unzipped to form a flat quilt. It’s hand-filled with ethically sourced 650-fill-power down. $325, rab.equipment The tiny, rechargeable Petzl Bindi Ultralight headlamp won’t take up any space in your glove compartment, but, when you need light, its 200 lumens of power are huge. $50, petzl.com You should have a first aid kit regardless of when and where you’re driving. We like the Mountain Explorer from Adventure Medical Kits because it includes supplies for trauma (CPR face shield, compression bandages) and major wound care (EMT shears, syringe, wound-closure strips) organized by injury in clearly labeled pockets. $70, adventuremedicalkits.com

This is by no means a complete list. WYDOT advises your vehicle be equipped with an ice scraper, snow brush, and windshield-washer fluid that’s mixed with anti-freeze. Find the Winter Wheeling in Wyoming brochure at dot.state.wy.us/home/travel/ winter.html. JH

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

B R A D LY J . B O N E R

Having a spare pair of dry socks is never a bad idea. Minus 33 Mountain Heritage Wool Socks are made in New Hampshire with snowmobilers in mind, so you know they’re warm. $22, minus33.com

LOCAL LIFE GO DEEP

Ski Jackets

WE TESTED THESE SO YOU DON’T HAVE TO.

(and Snowboard)

// DINA MISHEV

BACKCOUNTRY COTTONWOODS

JACK WOLFSKIN ALPSPITZ 3L

A durable, waterproof jacket that will keep you comfortable whether you’re enjoying a bluebird day or thigh-deep powder.

A waterproof and breathable shell with a RECCO chip from a company long popular in Europe—it was founded in Germany in 1981—and recently arrived in the North American market.

STRENGTHS

This season’s updated fit makes layering underneath this shell easier; if you like skiing with a down sweater as a mid-layer, there’s no need to size up in the Cottonwoods.

The outside chest pockets are giant—capable of carrying climbing skins, one of Persephone’s facesized cookies, or an extra hat and gloves—and accessible when you’re wearing a pack.

WEAKNESSES

The new, more generous fit makes sizing confusing; our usual size works when we’ve got a lot of layers underneath, but feels too big on warmer days.

The giant outside chest pockets encourage you to carry and eat too many Persephone cookies.

Skiers and riders looking for performance at a good price.

Skiers and riders who like a Euro fit and being at the leading edge of a new-to-the-U.S. brand that is sure to become well-known.

$399; available at backcountry.com

$499; available at us.jackwolfskin.com

WHAT IT IS

STIO SHOT 7 WHAT IT IS

A waterproof Gore-Tex jacket stuffed with 800-fill HyperDRY down, which eliminates the need to wear a ton of layers. STRENGTHS

We love the freedom of not having to bulk up with base layers and letting the Shot 7’s hydrophobic down keep us warm. Its weight and warmth make it a resort-only jacket and, even with only a t-shirt beneath it, it’s too warm for spring skiing days.

BEST FOR

WEAKNESSES

BEST FOR

Resort skiers who don’t like messing around with layers. $649; available at Stio Mountain Studio (10 S. Broadway Ave., Jackson) and stio.com

38 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

DETAILS

ROSSIGNOL SKPR 3L

BLACK DIAMOND RECON

NORRØNA FALKETIND GORE-TEX

The rare backcountry touring shell that is as waterproof as it is breathable; stretch fabric adds to its comfort.

A stretchy, waterproof jacket that works in- and out of bounds.

One shell to use for everything, on any day it’s wet. This includes in- and out-of-bounds skiing, ice climbing, hiking, and everything in between.

When the weather’s clear, the SKPR 3L packs into its own pocket (barely taking up space in your pack); when it’s storming, it gives you maximum powder protection.

The Recon looks graeat skiing lifts, and it’s also got serious backcountry features like mesh internal drop pockets (for storing climbing skins).

There’s a sweet simplicity to having just one Gore-Tex jacket that works for any activity, any time of the year.

We’re still looking for one.

Some of this winter’s colorways are a little much (amber/tundra/black, we’re looking at you).

Since it’s designed to be a quiver of one, some ski-specific features (like a zippered pocket for storing your pass) are missing.

Backcountry skiers and splitboarders looking for a lightweight, high-performance shell.

Skiers and riders who want a versatile jacket that performs both in- and out-of-bounds.

When you want one waterproof shell and want it to work year-round.

$495; available at Jackson Hole Sports (7720 Granite Loop Rd., Teton Village) and rossignol.com

$450; available at Black Diamond (160 W. Pearl Ave., Jackson) and blackdiamondequipment.com

$519, available at Hoback Sports (520 W. Broadway Ave., Jackson) and norrona.com JH

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

LOCAL LIFE JACKSON HOLE ICON

Jackson Hole Moose Jackson Hole is best-known for its skiing, but we love our semi-pro hockey team.

// BY DAKOTA RICHARDSON

AS NIGHT SKIERS carve their final turns beneath the lift lights at Snow King Mountain Resort, another set of lights—accompanied by music and a raucous crowd— is just getting fired up as the Jackson Moose Senior A hockey team takes to the ice at the Snow King Center. With a roster of pro players from post-college to the American Hockey League and all the way up to NHL visitors, the Moose almost always play to a capacity crowd of about 1,200 cheering fans. “The games are fun and exciting,” says Kathy Culver, a season ticket holder with her husband, Bob, who never comes to a Moose game without a giant cowbell. It’s exciting for players, too. “It’s the most fun I’ve had playing hockey,” says forward Alex Dewitz. Ryan Glantz, who is also a forward, adds, “The support we get from our fans every night is what makes this team tick. We couldn’t make it happen without the fans.”

B R A D LY J . B O N E R

This winter marks the 26th season for the Moose. In 2014, the Moose were one of the founding teams of the semi-professional Black Diamond Hockey League. In this league, teams compete for the Joe Casey Cup, a championship trophy named after former Moose captain Joe Casey, who died suddenly in 2013. The Moose have twice won the Joe Casey Cup. Under general manager Howie Carruth, who took over from Skip Wright-Clark in 2012, over the past five seasons, the team has recorded 85 wins.

40 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

The Moose and the fans aren’t only about winning, though. Kids line up outside the team locker room during games hoping to have a puck signed by their favorite players. Eight-year-old Bode Pelletier, who has had his photo taken annually with Knuckles, the team mascot, says, “Moose hockey games are about having fun.” His mom, Kelly Biscombe says, “He loves being able to get to know the players and high-fiving them in between periods. AJ Sanders is his favorite player. The puck drops for most home games at 7:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. This winter, the season runs from October 13 to March 16. Purchase tickets for $10 at the door. Seating is general admission; concession food is available, and there are local beers on tap. Follow the Moose @jhmoosehockey JH

“I’m a Best Friend of the Bridger-Teton National Forest by recreating responsibly and respecting all closures, boundaries, and protocols at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. To be responsible when skiing in the backcountry, I’ve taken avalanche training, always carry a beacon, shovel, and probe, and ski with friends and partners I trust. Every time I ski, my goal is to make sure I’m around to ski another day.”

“I’m a Best Friend of the Bridger-Teton National Forest by respecting winter closures and being considerate, friendly, and polite to other users. I’m always willing to share the space and my knowledge with others—visitors and locals alike. It’s important that we all actively participate in responsible recreation, education, and safe backcountry travel protocol.” — CHRIS KITCHEN, KGB OWNER AND FILMMAKER AND BFF OF THE BTNF SINCE 2002

— JESS MCMILLAN, ATHLETE AND JHMR’S DIRECTOR OF EVENTS AND PARTNERSHIPS AND BFF OF THE BTNF SINCE 1978

GRIFFIN KERWIN

@JACKSONHOLE

@KGB_PRODUCTIONS

BFFof t heBTNF “I’m a Best Friend of the Bridger-Teton National Forest by preparing myself for sidecountry ski adventures. I often have the pleasure of taking less experienced friends out and safety is my top priority. I carry a backpack with essential supplies that include a shovel, probe, and beacon—which I make sure is turned on—and I have the knowledge to use these tools. I also communicate our plan and check the avy report. Assuming nothing has changed from the day before is problematic and dangerous!”

“I’m a Best Friend of the Bridger-Teton National Forest by sharing all the Nordic/cross-country and winter trail maps, grooming information, and places to explore and have fun via human-powered recreation on the forest. I love to connect, inspire, and inform our community and visitors to enjoy the BTNF responsibly—to share the trails, respect wildlife, and plan and prepare for every adventure.” — NANCY LEON, FOUNDER OF THE JACKSON HOLE NORDIC ALLIANCE AND BFF OF THE BTNF SINCE 2008

— LARRY HARTENSTEIN, DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS, SNOW KING MOUNTAIN, AND BFF OF THE BTNF SINCE 2000

Are you a BFF of the BTNF? Connect with us on Instagram — @bridgertetonfriends — and tell us why. Friends of the Bridger-Teton works to ensure everyone can enjoy the diversity and wealth of resources on the 3.4 million acre Bridger-Teton National Forest now and into the future.

CT HOGAN

ANDREW SCHRUM

JHNORDIC.COM

HELLO

LOCAL LIFE

HELLO LINDSEY JOHNSON

Lindsey Johnson PROFILE

42 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

// BY BEVIN WALLACE

COURTESY PHOTO

B R A D LY J . B O N E R

The Sweet Life

on a purpose-filled journey to master high-altitude baking. “I just kept doing it and doing it. And things started turning out,” she says. “All of a sudden, my dry cakes were tasting amazing. And I was keeping track of all these things I was doing. I was like, wow, I’m kind of inventing recipes. Even though I’ve

COURTESY PHOTO

fter moving to Jackson Hole with her family on a whim, Lindsey Johnson felt unconnected and lonely—until, with inspiration from Wyoming’s natural beauty, she started combining the solace she got from baking with her love of making art. A California beach kid, Johnson was raised in the surf culture of San Clemente, and she has been in love with art her entire life. “I was always sketching on anything I could get my hands on, whether it was rocks at the beach or drawing in the sand,” she says. After going to school for art and design, she worked in residential interior design for over 10 years. She found herself in Wyoming after her husband was hired by a client to build a home in the Snake River Sporting Club. Instead of temporarily relocating for the job, the family, including three young sons, moved to the valley in 2016. Johnson admits she struggled with her new life at first. “I’m this beach kid and I’m looking outside and I have six feet of snow in my yard,” she says. “Plus, my kids were little and I was just tired.” Also, she didn’t feel she had the connections to restart her design business. “I kind of lost myself, you know.” So, she did what one does: she comforted herself with food. Being the daughter and granddaughter of scratch bakers, she felt connected to home and family when she baked. But her cakes, many of which were from favorite family recipes, weren’t turning out as she expected, which sent her

It’s really fun to be able to be creative and spread joy and art to other people through desserts. known these recipes, I’m reinventing them and now they’re mine. I was getting excited, like, I’m actually creating something.” The result of this was a blog, A Lady in the Wild West. “At first, it was just supposed to be a baking blog,” Johnson says. “It was a creative outlet for me because I had left my career. It was never meant to be a business.” But her beautiful cakes and cookies caught the attention of social media. Johnson now has a full-fledged business with a popular Instagram account (@ladyinthewildwest) and a full docket of weddings each summer. Her first book, Wild Sugar: Artful Confections by Lady in the Wild West, is coming out in the spring of 2024. “It’s all been a blur,” she says. Johnson now lives and works on a 20-acre “hobby farm” in Star Valley with her family, 11 chickens, six goats, three pigs, a cow, and a dog. While she continues to work on balancing the demands of her art, business, family, and farm, she loves her adventurous and creative life, for which she gives credit to the place she now calls home: “I don’t think this would’ve ever become my life if I hadn’t moved to Jackson. Living here and having such a close relationship with nature really did awaken this whole part of myself and my soul and kind of made all this happen for me. I know that’s cheesy, but it really is true.”

COURTESY PHOTO

Johnson calls the cake above the "Fairytale cake."

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

HELLO

LOCAL LIFE

HELLO LINDSEY JOHNSON

Bourbon Banana Cake MAKES 1 (4-LAYER) 6-INCH CAKE

INGREDIENTS 3 large very ripe, fork-mashed bananas 3 cups plus 2 tbsp. all-purpose flour, spooned and measured 3 /4 tsp. baking soda 3 /4 tsp. baking powder 1 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon 1 /4 tsp. freshly ground nutmeg 3 /4 tsp. kosher salt 3 /4 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 cup minus 1 tbsp. granulated sugar 1 /2 cup dark brown sugar 3 large eggs, at room temperature 1 tbsp. pure vanilla extract 1 1/4 cup buttermilk, at room temperature 1 /4 cup high-quality bourbon whiskey, such as Wyoming Whiskey Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter four 6-inch cake pans and line the bottoms with parchment paper. Dust pans generously with flour, knocking out the excess. Set aside. In a medium-sized bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt. Set aside. In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the butter and sugars on medium-high speed until light and fluffy (about 3 minutes). With the mixer on low speed, add the eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Stop to scrape down the bowl. Add the vanilla bean extract. Mix until combined. Add the mashed bananas. Mix until combined. Scrape down the bowl.

COURTESY PHOTO

With the mixer on low speed, add half of the dry ingredients, followed by half of the buttermilk. Mix for about 20 seconds, scraping down the bowl if needed. Repeat with the remaining dry ingredients, followed by the remaining buttermilk, scraping down the bowl as needed. With the mixer on low speed, slowly add the bourbon. Mix for about 30 seconds until combined. Do not overmix. Pour the batter evenly among the pans.

44 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

Bake on the center rack for about 25–27 minutes, or until a center tester comes out clean. Allow the cakes to cool in their pans for 10 minutes before turning over onto a wire rack. Allow them to cool completely before frosting.

BOURBON CREAM CHEESE BUTTERCREAM FROSTS 1 (4-LAYER) 6-INCH CAKE 1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature 8-oz. block cream cheese, at room temperature 5 1/2 cups confectioners’ sugar 2–3 tsp. high-quality bourbon whiskey, such as Wyoming Whiskey pinch of kosher salt In the bowl of an electric mixer, on medium-high speed, cream together the butter and the cream cheese until light and fluffy (about 3 minutes). Add the confectioners’ sugar, 1 cup at a time, mixing for about 30 seconds after each addition. Add the bourbon to taste, and a pinch of salt. Mix until combined. On medium speed, mix for 3 minutes until light and fluffy.

BOURBON BUTTERSCOTCH MAKES ABOUT 1 1/2 CUPS /2 cup unsalted butter 1 1/2 cups turbinado sugar 1 /2 cup heavy cream, at room temperature 1 /2 cup high-quality bourbon whiskey, such as Wyoming Whiskey 1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. pure vanilla bean paste 1

LOOKING FOR A UNIQUE JACKSON HOLE EXPERIENCE?

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the sugar and stir to combine. Raise the heat to medium-high and continue stirring for one minute. Carefully pour in the heavy cream, salt, and bourbon. Bring the mixture to a boil and stir constantly for 8–10 minutes until the mixture begins to come together and pulls away from the sides. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla bean paste. Pour the butterscotch into a heat-safe container and allow it to cool to room temperature.

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The butterscotch thickens as it cools. If needed, reheat to bring back a pourable consistency.

ASSEMBLY

Chill the cake for 20 minutes before adding a butterscotch drip. To add a butterscotch drip, reheat the remaining butterscotch for about 10 seconds. Stir. Allow the butterscotch to cool slightly, but make sure it’s a pourable consistency. You want it slightly warmer than room temperature. Using a large spoon, pour the butterscotch over the top of the chilled cake, pushing it gently to the edges, allowing it to drip down over the sides. This recipe is created for high-altitude (6,000–7,000 feet elevation) baking. Lindsey likes Wyoming Whiskey for its warm notes of vanilla, caramel, browned butter, and toffee. JH

BOURBON BANANA CAKE

Place a flat-bottomed cooled cake layer on a serving platter or cake stand. Cover the top with a generous layer of bourbon buttercream. Add a spoonful of room temperature (not warm) butterscotch, leaving a 1-inch border around the cake edges (you don’t want the butterscotch leaking out of the sides). Place the second cake layer, flat side facing up, on top of the frosted first layer. Fill the gaps between the cake layers with buttercream. Repeat the steps with the buttercream and butterscotch. Fill the gaps between the cake layers with buttercream. Place the final cake layer flat side facing up. Cover the top and sides of the cake with a thin coat of buttercream to lock in the crumbs, scraping off the excess for a semi-naked finish.

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JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

LOCAL LIFE

B R A D LY J . B O N E R

46 WINTER WINTER 2024 2023 | JACKSON HOLE HOLE

LINA COLLADO GARCÍA

HELLO JESSYCA VALDEZ

Jessyca Valdez AS TOLD BY

// BY LINA COLLADO GARCIA

JESSYCA VALDEZ

Valdez's son, Ian Emmanuel Estrada.

essyca Valdez first arrived in Jackson in May 2017 from Tlaxcala, Mexico. She and her husband, Emmanuel, used all of their money to buy one-way tickets to the United States. “Our main goal was to have a secure roof over our heads and continue with my college studies in accounting and finances,” Valdez says. Emmanuel’s brother had moved to Jackson in 2010. “He first spoke to us about Jackson and painted a panorama of finding a good job surrounded by nature and animals.” The couple thought Jackson sounded like a place where they could find a better path and reach their true potential, even though they knew it would not be easy. Both Emmanuel and Jessyca quickly got jobs here. Housing was a little harder. They stayed with family for a few weeks, then moved into one bedroom in a three-bedroom house shared with seven other people. It was tight, but okay. But then Valdez learned she was pregnant. In Mexico, doc-

Those photos will remind me that, even though we struggled through some rough times, those moments were gifts. I feel proud of how much we have grown as a family here in Jackson.” tors had told her she had less than a 5 percent chance of conceiving naturally, so this was a happy surprise. But it was also stressful. Seven roommates and a newborn would make for a hard living situation, and she was nervous to be far away from her family. Through the support and efforts of a local preacher, friends, and networking, though, the Valdezes found an apartment shared with only one roommate. Ian Emmanuel Valdez was born on February 28, 2018. He almost immediately inspired Valdez, who is now 33 years old, to start taking photos. “I had never seen a place JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

LOCAL LIFE HELLO JESSYCA VALDEZ

LINA COLLADO GARCÍA

AS TOLD BY JESSYCA VALDEZ

as beautiful as Jackson, and I wanted to share and document this reality in which my son was growing up,” she says. “I wanted to save these moments, for me, for him. Those photos will remind me that, even though we struggled through some rough times, those moments were gifts. I feel proud of how much we have grown as a family here in Jackson.” Valdez started taking photos with her cellphone, and, thanks to the encouragement of friends, soon began thinking about photography more seriously. In 2021, she bought a used camera and began online photography courses and watching instructional YouTube videos. Today, a handful of local nonprofits commission her to make photos for them; she is also hired to photograph weddings, family portraits, and quinceañeras. And she works on personal projects. Her exhibit, Sentimientos de Pertenencia (Feelings of Belonging), will be on display at the Center for the Arts from March 12 through April 30, 2024. Including photographs and a short film, the exhibit highlights the lives, goals, challenges, and hopes of immigrants who moved to Jackson from four different countries. Still, “I have not reached where I want to go,” Valdez says. “I want to continue to learn and grow to reach many more branches within photography.”

48 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

or me, photography represents a medium to tell stories and to capture emotions and unique and unrepeatable moments. It is a way for me to connect with where I am and create my own vision. I believe photos are a way to relive memories, and, simultaneously, create a powerful tool that permits us to express something without words. I wanted to create something for my community, in gratitude for everything we received when we needed help. Photography [and Sentimientos de Pertenencia] is something I knew I could do, and could do well. Therefore, this is my gift to our community. The idea for it came when I began to notice the many amazing things the immigrant community of Jackson had accomplished in such a small mountain town. As someone who came from the same adversities of moving and acclimating to a completely different world, I knew how hard it had been. We have been able to progress, create a better life, and strive to reach our potential. I hope this exhibit continues to create consciousness of our immigrant community, and, at the same time, empower our immigrant community. It recognizes our immigrant community and provides a glimpse into their lives, families, cultures, and their workplace. My goal is to highlight the message of how important it is to value, respect, and appreciate our immigrant community.

I remember my first interview. I was so nervous and fearful of not being able to take the best photos. Each individual or family shared their story, their dreams, and their lives with me. They shared why they moved here, what they love about Jackson, and what has been a challenge. Each interview was full of emotions, connections, and empathy. I felt everyone’s trust in me, and that has changed everything. [Sentimientos de Pertenencia] is for them, as I am just a piece to this big puzzle. I would not be able to do what I do without their voices. This is a part of our community.

SENTIMIENTOS DE PERTENENCIA Sentimientos de Pertenencia hangs in the Center Gallery at the Center for the Arts in downtown Jackson from March 12 through April 30. “The Center is very supportive of showcasing photographs that tell the story of our local immigrant population and to provide a venue where our community can learn new perspectives and be exposed to new ideas,” says Oona Doherty, the Center’s creative initiatives director. Rather than a traditional opening reception, Valdez’s exhibit engages with the public with a bilingual panel (April 26). Several of the immigrants Valdez photographed and filmed will participate in a Q&A and share their experiences firsthand. English interpretation will be provided. At the end of the panel, Valdez and panel participants will share steps anyone in the Jackson Hole community can take to continue to build feelings of belonging with and within the immigrant community. Sentimientos de Pertenencia is sponsored by JH Travel & Tourism, JH Public Art, The Center for the Arts, Wyoming Arts Council, and the Westaff BIPOC Artist Fund. JH

SEASONED. LOCAL. TRUSTED.

PUT OUR DECADES OF KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE TO WORK FOR YOU.

The goals of Jessyca Valdez's photography exhibit, Sentimientos de Pertenencia, are to celebrate and empower Jackson Hole's immigrant community.

JESSYCA VALDEZ

SPACKMANS@JHSIR.COM | 307.739.8156 | SPACKMANSINJH.COM

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

LOCAL LIFE

Q A

HELLO LARRY HARTENSTEIN

LARRY HARTENSTEIN

Snow King’s director of operations lives to ski, but he’s even more passionate about helping others.

50 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

espite having non-skiing parents, Larry Hartenstein grew up (in Woodbridge, New Jersey) skiing. “I was about five the first time I went skiing. It was near our family cabin in the Poconos,” Hartenstein, now 48-yearsold, says. “I didn’t take a lesson, and my dad waited at the bottom of the beginner area to catch me. I came down fast and knocked him over. I was in a lesson the next day.” By the time Hartenstein was eight, he was taking weekly ski trips with his dad’s best friend, Andy Mindel. “He was a super special guy who truly instilled a passion for skiing into me. We skied probably 30 days a year together,” he says. By high school, Hartenstein was up to about 40 or 50 ski days a year. “I skied all of the ski areas that matter in B R A D LY J . B O N E R

ANDREW SCHRUM

// BY BRIGID MANDER

Jackson Hole’s Premier Nordic and Cross Country Skiing Specialist Since 1974!

Photo Courtesy David Swift & GTNPF

the East, other than Smugglers’ Notch and Jay Peak,” he says. “We’d do day trips from New Jersey on buses, and Jay Peak was far away for a day trip.” Hartenstein put himself through college—Trenton State College, now the College of New Jersey—by working at the Ski Barn in Princeton, New Jersey. “I was a manager working 40-plus hours a week within a year of starting there,” he says. When it came time for him to do a year-long study abroad program, “Everyone else was looking at Europe, but I went to the University of Calgary,” he says. “There was a tiny ski area 10 minutes from the campus, and Sunshine and Lake Louise were nearby. That year I skied everything in Alberta and central British Columbia.” Hartenstein started college planning on becoming a pediatric oncologist but says he eventually realized that as a doctor, he’d have very little time to ski. “At least until much later in life,” he says. After graduation, he did have a job that wasn’t at Ski Barn—he worked nine months for a software company—but says, “It just wasn’t me.” In June 2000, Hartenstein flew out to Jackson and interviewed at every ski shop in the valley. Then he went hiking in Yellowstone for several days. He got job offers from every shop and, that Labor Day, moved to Jackson Hole and started working as a manager at Jackson Hole Sports. “My family is pretty much all doctors, lawyers, and educators. When I told Grandma—the matriarch of the family—that I decided not to go to medical school, she said she was very disappointed in me,” Hartenstein says. “Within a year-and-a-half of being out here, she was like, ‘You figured it out. I’m not disappointed in you anymore.’” Hartenstein stayed at JHMR, growing Jackson Hole Sports and eventually becoming its general manager, until 2021. He’s been the director of operations at Snow King Mountain since Novemeber 2022.

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JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

LOCAL LIFE

HELLO LARRY HARTENSTEIN

Q: What kept you at JHMR for 22 years? LH: Besides skiing JHMR every day? It was an inspiring experience. I was given so many amazing opportunities, from designing a ski sock line with Farm to Feet to helping bring JH Sports from the smallest ski shop in terms of volume to the largest. But most important were staff relationships and subsequent friendships. I also had an incredibly supportive boss my entire time there, developed leadership skills, and loved being an ambassador for guests, locals, and staff alike. “Over the past 20 years, I have said that at some point in my life I will work for the Make-A-Wish Foundation,” Hartenstein says. “There is a beauty in the simplicity of what it does—a kid meets the criteria, they get their wish. And kids being sick and parents having to watch that, it just gets me.” Last year Hartenstein joined the board of Make-A-Wish Wyoming. At the time this issue went to press, he was working on his first wishes and also fundraising in Teton County. “Make-AWish Wyoming only gets about $30,000 annually from donors in Teton County, and we’re the wealthiest county in the state. I want to change that,” He says. “I’ve only been on the board for a short time, but already it is one of the few things that I am proud of myself for. Everything else—whatever. Helping critically sick kids and their families is important to me.” wish.org/ wyoming

Q: How has it been adjusting from skiing JHMR, a destination resort, to skiing Snow King, our Town Hill? LH: Last year was a really good snow year, and I did a bunch of exploration off the backside of the new Sunnyside lift. You can get fresh snow a week after a storm. For someone like me who likes to do a little hike every day, Sunnyside really changed skiing at Snow King. Q: How did you end up in Jackson Hole? LH: I briefly considered Colorado and California, but it was really only ever Jackson. For me, skiing is first, but backpacking and hiking are a close second. I skied in Jackson for the first time in 1994 but backpacked in Yellowstone for the first time in 1989 when I was 14. It was on that trip that I fell in love with the area. The two weeks I ended up spending as a patient in St. John’s [hospital] when I came out on a ski trip in 1998 made Jackson more appealing, too. I got to feel what the community was about. Q: What landed you in our hospital? LH: I broke my leg being a dumbass. I skied off Crabtree Rock, which is named for Jeff Crabtree, the former owner of Skinny Skis, who broke both of his legs off it. It’s in lower Teewinot Gully. Q: Two weeks in a hospital for a broken leg seems like a pretty serious break? LH: It was a large spiral fracture of my tibia that also caused compartment syndrome and damage to my peroneal nerve. Four operations included a double fasciotomy and skin graphs and left with me an open hole in my leg for nine months as the

52 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

skin graph was only an 80 percent take. I got a bone infection and came close to losing my left lower leg. That didn’t happen, but I never regained nerve function and still have drop foot today. Q: What made the job move to Snow King appealing? LH: The mountain is such an incredible asset for our community, and the challenge of solving issues as it grows resonates with me personally and professionally, and certainly helps develop my skill sets. Operations is very different from retail. Working with the Jackson Hole Ski Club and Coombs Foundation has been wonderful, too. Supporting our local community is important to both myself and Snow King. Q: Was it to support the Jackson Hole community that you became trained as a peer-to-peer counselor? LH: That started from personal experience. I’ve had six employees die from alcohol-related things or mental health issues. There was a time when, once or twice a year, I’d drive an employee to the Community Counseling Center for mental health care. After I dropped the first employee off, I sat bawling in my car. I thought I generally handled it—I got him to mental healthcare—but felt like I needed more training. I called the Jackson Hole Community Counseling Center to get that. Helping people in this way is so important to me, and I think I’m OK at it; I tell people the truth but am kind. Q: Your son, Willy, is in sixth grade; how do you spend time together? LH: We bike, hike, run, ski, of course— and we like to race each other on go-karts whenever we get a chance. He’s very knowledgeable about the solar system; he educates me on black holes, event horizons, and a whole bunch of other stuff I have no idea about—so we’re both looking forward to the upcoming observatory here at Snow King. Last winter, he dropped Corbet’s Couloir at JHMR. That was a proud Jackson dad moment for sure. He thinks he’s going to be faster than me this year. I’m like, ‘Yeah, maybe when I’m 70.’

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COURTESY PHOTO

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1 My favorite ski pants are old camo Burton AK Hover Pants. Once I’m hiking, I get warm quickly, but before that, I’m very cold. These pants are microfleece lined and have four venting zippers—the mixture of the extra fleece lining and significant air flow is perfect. Burton stopped making this particular cut and style after 2005; that year, I bought three pairs at our annual Labor Day sale at Jackson Hole Sports. I have a continuous search on eBay for this pant, and the last few pairs I purchased came from Europe. I’m sort of known for these pants, and I have 13 pairs. I think this is a funny favorite pant for a guy who could have rocked any pant for free from any manufacturer.

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I’ve been in three major avalanches, and the Scott Alpinride Airbag now comes with me on all my backcountry adventures. I hope to not have to use it, but it’s an amazing bag.

The Lange RS 130 ski boots are the best 3 dang boots for my feet and performance needs! It is truly the only piece of gear that I can’t ski without. I’m lucky that my boots fit me better than my street shoes, and with my foot drop challenges from my accident in 1998, I can walk better in my boots than my street shoes. Ski boots are a cast after all! JH JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

LOCAL LIFE BLAST FROM THE PAST

Off the Beaten Track For 80 years, Trail Creek Ranch in Wilson has been owned and operated by women.

Margaret “Muggs” Schultz, Betty Woolsey, and Marian “Sis” McKean Wigglesworth at Trail Creek Ranch.

54 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

COURTESY PHOTO

// BY JIM STANFORD

COURTESY PHOTO

The main Trail Creek Ranch compound at the base of Teton Pass circa 1950s.

lizabeth “Betty” Woolsey was a trailblazer, in the mountains and in business. By the early 1940s, she had climbed and skied in the Alps, summited the highest unclimbed peak in Canada, and captained the first U.S. Olympic women’s ski team, winning the national championship in downhill. She had climbed many peaks in the Tetons and Wind River Range, sometimes helping to put up new routes. Her favorite ascent was Mount Moran, on the summit of which she'd had a picnic and napped among a swarm of butterflies. It was on one of her many spring visits to the Tetons, when she and friends would ski corn snow in the morning and catch trout in the Snake River in the afternoon, that Woolsey saw her destiny as a Wyoming rancher. “I had always dreamed that I would find a place which would be so pleasing to me that I would want to live there forever,” she wrote in her autobiography. Her native New Mexico was too dry, the Appalachians back East too low for climbing and skiing. “I discovered my piece of land the first time I skied down Teton Pass,” wrote Woolsey, who lived for adventures in Greater Yellowstone and took great pleasure in sharing these pursuits. Thus began a half-century of building a ranch and hosting guests. Wooley established Trail Creek Ranch near the base of Teton Pass above Wilson, where trappers and pioneers once trav-

eled on an old wagon trail. More than 80 years later, her legacy lives on, as the ranch is still a haven for skiers in winter—and is still owned and run by women. The endless expanses of light powder snow were irresistible for Woolsey and her friends, who would drive to the top of the Pass and choose a run from the many bowls and ridges on the south side. “We had our pick,” says Margaret “Muggs” Schultz, who started work at the ranch in 1948 and served as a ski guide with Woolsey. “We’d usually start at Telemark [Bowl] and work our way around. By the time we worked our way around, we had fresh snow to start over again.”

I never tired of life in the valley, " with the ranch to work on, mountains

to climb, streams to fish, game to hunt, and powder snow on the ski slopes." —BETTY WOOLSEY

The site of Trail Creek Ranch had been the Lockwood-Lee-Crandall Road House, a waypoint for travelers and mail carriers coming over Teton Pass from Idaho. Louis E. Lockwood, originally JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

LOCAL LIFE BLAST FROM THE PAST

EXPERIENCE TRAIL CREEK TODAY The ranch’s pastures and surrounding hills are home to the Trail Creek Nordic Center, where the Jackson Hole Ski and Snowboard Club grooms a 13-kilometer cross-country skiing track. Guests also can skin up the adjoining Old Pass Road for downhill runs on Teton Pass. With a mixture of rooms and standalone cabins, the ranch can accommodate up to 20 guests in summer and six to eight in winter. Although originally a fullservice dude ranch with cooks and wranglers, Trail Creek today provides lodging only.

from Ohio, settled on the land in 1896 and built a log house, barns, and corrals. Lockwood died 10 years later, reportedly due to overexertion from shoveling snow; and his widow, Dora, finally received the patent for the land in 1909. It changed hands several times before Nate Davis bought the place in 1921. On the day of Woolsey’s fateful ski descent, she and friends skied a steep ridge, followed a logging road, and

ing the distinctive barn built by Wilson craftsman Wes Bircher. With help from friends, Woolsey salvaged the southernmost portion of the original road house, which today is known as the “Upper Upper” cabin. Schultz, who turns 95 this January, was born in Idaho and moved with her family to Jackson when she was two. She briefly attended the University of Wyoming but couldn’t stand the unre-

ALEX MENOLASCINO

Woolsey, who had been staying with neighbors Willy and Retty Mueller on their dairy farm, lingered in Jackson that spring and became even more smitten with the Davis ranch when she walked the woods. “I had a curious feeling of being at home here and felt that perhaps someday I would own it,” she wrote.

Betty Woolsey dug up two Engelmann spruce saplings from the forest and planted them on either side of the door to her cabin when she bought Trail Creek Ranch in the mid-1940s, and they remain there today.

56 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

came to a stop at the back door of the Davis cabin. Davis and his wife invited the skiers in for a cup of coffee. In 1943, when Woolsey heard the place was for sale, she sent her friend Rynie Van Evera, a visiting skier from Salt Lake City, to go fishing with Davis on Fall Creek with a case of beer. Van Evera came back in the afternoon with the deed to the property, bought for $40 an acre. There was no electricity, telephone, or running water, but Woolsey immediately set about making improvements and acquiring stock. To celebrate, she dug up two Engelmann spruce saplings from the forest and planted them on either side of the door to her new cabin—and today they stand more than 75 feet tall outside the guest ranch’s main lodge. Initially, the ranch was 40 acres, but Woolsey, who died in 1997, acquired the adjoining Mueller family parcel and other land in the 1950s to accumulate the 268 acres the ranch covers today. She had some of Willy Mueller’s buildings moved onto the property, includ-

lenting wind. “It didn’t take me long to finish college—one year,” she says. “All I wanted to do was ski and bum around, and work.” Noted for her riding skills, she sought a job from Woolsey and spent several summers working at the ranch, even going out from town to feed the horses in winter, before moving there year-round. She still lives there in a small cabin. In the early days, most of the ranch guests were Woolsey’s friends, some of whom would stay for a month. “Betty had a lot of connections, and it was a good start for the dude business,” Schultz says. Trail Creek officially became a dude ranch in 1946, after Woolsey quit her job managing the magazine Ski Illustrated in New York. “We had guests come for 30 to 40 years, until they died,” Schultz says. “Betty had a good knack for making people feel at home.” Many of the ski runs on the south side of Teton Pass—Chivers Ridge, Edelweiss Bowl, and Olympic Bowl among them—were named for or by Woolsey’s companions.

COURTESY PHOTO

JACKSON HOLE'S

Betty Woolsey with guests on Teton Pass.

One of Woolsey’s friends from ski racing, fellow Olympian Marian “Sis” McKean Wigglesworth, started visiting the ranch from Massachusetts in 1952 and moved there to join the staff in 1960. Her garden provided much of the produce. Together, the trio of Betty, Muggs, and Sis ran the ranch for 30 years. Woolsey placed a conservation easement to protect the ranch from development, and her estate still owns the land. Alexandra Grant Menolascino started working at Trail Creek in the spring of 1989 and eventually took over managing the business. Woolsey often bushwhacked her way to summits and titled her book Off the Beaten Track. That spirit lives on at Trail Creek, particularly when deep snow blankets the hills and rustic log cabins. On moonlit nights, the song of the coyote—what she called “the most Western sound”—can be heard. “I never tired of life in the valley, with the ranch to work on, mountains to climb, streams to fish, game to hunt, and powder snow on the ski slopes,” Woolsey wrote. “I lived as simply as possible, saving every penny to put back in the ranch.” JH

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JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

PEAK A D V E R T I S I N G

F E AT U R E

PROPERTIES

he factor that makes the Jackson Hole real estate market so unusual is the relative scarcity of private land. Ninety-seven percent of Teton County, Wyoming, is publicly owned—either national park, national forest, or wildlife refuge. This computes to just 75,000 privately held acres in a county spanning 2.5 million acres. The guaranteed open spaces and unobstructed views these surrounding public lands afford make the remaining private land a real treasure. Add the abundance of recreational opportunities found in and around the valley, and the quality of life one can enjoy in Jackson Hole is simply unbeatable. Moreover, many of the properties featured here are secluded, scenic retreats located in the midst of prime wildlife habitat. Most existing and prospective property owners in Jackson Hole cherish this notion, and serve—or will serve—as stewards of nature. One cannot put a dollar value on waking to the Teton skyline, skiing home for lunch, or listening to a trout stream gurgling through the backyard. In Jackson Hole, “living with nature” is not a fleeting, vicarious experience a person has while watching TV. Here it’s a fact of life, and we wouldn’t have it any other way.

SKI-IN/SKI-OUT IN TETON VILLAGE

IMPECCABLY DESIGNED LOFT IN SOHO NYC

AT A GLANCE

2,410

SQUARE FEET

BEDROOMS

BATHS

3,950,000 DOLLARS

23-1023 MLS#

This renovated Wind River condo offers ski-in/ski-out access to Jackson Hole Mountain Resort via the Moose Creek chairlift just steps away, as well as an ideal location along the Teton Village shuttle route for easy access to the vibrant atmosphere of Teton Village. Inside, the retreat features a warm atmosphere with classic western furnishings included. Experience mountain living at its finest in this turnkey mountain haven with a strong rental income.

BUDGE KELLEY REALTY GROUP Keller Williams Jackson Hole Dianne Budge • 307/413-1362 team@budgekelley.com budgekelley.com

58 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

4,000

SQUARE FEET

BEDROOMS

2.5

BATHS

An audacious masterpiece, finished to an unparalleled quality by Maurizio Bianchi Mattioli of Studio MBM, Residence 2 at 47 Mercer Street is a once-in-a-generation, sumptuous home. Recently featured in Architectural Digest, the home offers almost 50 feet of frontage over prime Mercer Street, enormous eastern and western exposures, 13-foot ceilings, and original Corinthian-style columns. The result is exquisitely SoHo: a historic loft, updated to the pinnacle of design, in a private cast iron building.

13,750,000 DOLLARS

—

MLS#

COMPASS Nick Gavin nickgavinoffice@compass.com compass.com/agents/nick-gavin

1915 N RIVENDELL DRIVE, WILSON

PRIVACY AND CONVENIENCE IN WILSON

AT A GLANCE

3,531

SQUARE FEET

BEDROOMS

BATHS

7,775,000 DOLLARS

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MLS#

Enveloped by three acres of lush greenery on the west side of the Snake River, this quintessential Jackson Hole residence serves as a spectacular canvas for sweeping views of the Teton Mountain Range. Built with an acute eye for detail, this custom-designed home consists of three luxurious bedroom suites, each accompanied by a full bath. Majestic Grand Teton views are the centerpiece of the main living space, augmented by tremendous log trusses and a one-of-a-kind moss rock fireplace. JACKSON HOLE SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY HUFF VAUGHN SASSI 307/203-3000 huffvaughnsassi@jhsir.com mercedeshuff.com

5,000

SQUARE FEET

BEDROOMS

BATHS

Welcome to the picturesque Indian Paintbrush neighborhood of Wilson, Wyoming. This 6.5-acre property boasts a main house with 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, as well as a guest house with 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms. Inside, you’ll find a wine cellar and a cozy fireplace, perfect for those chilly Wyoming evenings. Located 5 minutes from Wilson and 15 minutes from Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, this home offers the perfect blend of convenience and tranquility in a multi-generational family estate setting.

6,500,000 DOLLARS

23-2249 MLS#

MOUNTAIN STANDARD TEAM AT COMPASS Andrew Byron • 307/690-2767 andrew.byron@compass.com

WESTERN STAR IN SHOOTING IRON

ELK SONG RANCH

AT A GLANCE

3,110

SQUARE FEET

BEDROOMS

BATHS

10,975,000 DOLLARS

23-2185 MLS#

This 3,110-square-foot modern, handcrafted log home is ensconced by mature landscape, a private pond, and a lush pasture with a creek running through it. Set on 8 acres of flat land, with sweeping views of the Tetons and postcard sunsets. Artfully laid out, the 3 bedroom, 3 1/2 bathroom home balances privacy and flow. The south-facing deck is ideal for entertaining and relaxing by the pond. There is a heated 3-car garage and a run-in barn with plenty of room for tack and hay. The serene neighborhood attracts wildlife, yet it is just a few miles from town, schools, and a bike path that goes all the way to Grand Teton National Park. LIVE WATER PROPERTIES JACKSON HOLE Latham Jenkins • 307/690-1642 latham@livewaterproperties.com LiveWaterJacksonHole.com

4,190

SQUARE FEET

BEDROOMS

3.5

The Elk Song Ranch offers the ultimate privacy, located on the Rim between Jackson and Pinedale, on 165 acres with national forest. Featuring an impressive mountain home built to the highest quality standards, with both attached and detached garages, and a barn and heated arena suited to the true horseman, this property is a rare find for the outdoorsman, and less than an hour from the Jackson Hole airport.

BATHS

6,900,000 DOLLARS

23-1577 MLS#

PRUGH REAL ESTATE Margi Barrie • 307/690-7923 margi@prugh.com

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

LUXURY TOWNHOMES IN HEART OF TOWN

OUTDOOR ENTHUSIAST’S PARADISE

AT A GLANCE

3,120

SQUARE FEET

BEDROOMS

A stone’s throw from the Town Square, the Glenwood offers a mountain town retreat close to both cultural and outdoor activities. Three-bedroom luxury units with rooftop decks and the finest amenities. Please reach out for information about the second phase.

3.5 — —

MLS#

ACRES

—

BEDROOMS

—

BATHS

DOLLARS

BATHS

JACKSON HOLE SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Bill Van Gelder, Associate Broker 307/201-8045 ext. 8045 AllenVanGelder@JHSIR.com Jacksonholerealestateinfo.com

—

DOLLARS

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MLS#

Ten acres of pristine land in the picturesque and soughtafter community of Hoback Ranches. Nestled amid the awe-inspiring beauty of the Wyoming wilderness, this expansive property is an ideal canvas for your dreams to unfold. As you enter this extraordinary piece of land, you’ll be greeted by sweeping vistas of majestic mountains and sprawling meadows. The natural splendor of the surrounding landscape is truly a sight to behold, with breathtaking sunsets and a peaceful serenity that embraces every inch of the property. MOUNTAIN STANDARD REALTY COMPASS Nicholas Houfek • 307/399-7115 nicholas.houfek@compass.com mountainstandardrealty.com

TENSLEEP CONDOMINIUM IN TETON VILLAGE

36 BREATHTAKING ACRES

AT A GLANCE

760

SQUARE FEET

BEDROOMS

This is one of the nicest 2-bedroom 2-full bath condominiums available in Teton Village. It has been completely remodeled down to the studs with no expense being spared. The unit has short term rental available in the Tensleep North building. A complete turn key property that is being sold with new furnishings and fixtures throughout. There will be a transferrable Sundance membership included, with a ski locker and laundry facilities.

ACRES

—

BEDROOMS

—

BATHS

1,480,000

3,150,000

DOLLARS

23-817 MLS#

Welcome to this expansive 36-acre property just 25 minutes from Jackson, Wyoming. Surrounded by breathtaking mountain views, this vacant land offers a blank canvas for your dream retreat or investment venture. Enjoy tranquility and natural beauty, while still having easy access to the amenities and attractions of Jackson. Whether you’re seeking a private sanctuary or an exciting opportunity, this property is waiting for you. Don’t miss out on owning a piece of Wyoming’s beauty. Schedule a showing today and bring your vision to life on this remarkable land.

DOLLARS

MOUNTAIN STANDARD TEAM AT COMPASS Doug Herrick • 307/413-8899 doug.herrick@compass.com

60 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

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MLS#

MOUNTAIN STANDARD TEAM AT COMPASS Jack Stout • 307/413-7118 jack.stout@compass.com

EAST JACKSON NEW CONSTRUCTION

LUXURY ON THE WESTBANK–WILSON

AT A GLANCE

4,205

SQUARE FEET

BEDROOMS

BATHS

Newly constructed custom home located in East Jackson with architectural design by award winning Farmer Payne Architects. This property features a classic exterior design with fresh and refined interior spaces. The main level comprises of an open floor-plan and a great room with a 28foot vaulted ceiling and 2-storey floor-to-ceiling windows. There is a chef’s kitchen with professional grade appliances, pantry with wine fridge, and a spacious 6-person island, perfect for entertaining.

7,500,000 DOLLARS

22-3163W MLS#

9,382

SQUARE FEET

BEDROOMS

5.5

BATHS

9,950,000 JACKSON HOLE SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Jake Kilgrow • 307/413-2822 jake.kilgrow@jhsir.com

DOLLARS

23-851 MLS#

Welcome to this exquisite Westbank home, a testament to meticulous craftsmanship, brought to life by a local developer. Nestled on a sprawling 2.9-acre property, this residence embraces the beauty of its surroundings, offering immaculate landscaping and plenty of privacy. With six bedrooms and 5.5 bathrooms, there’s ample space to accommodate everyone. Additionally, a guest apartment ensures that visitors can enjoy their stay with complete independence and comfort. KELLER WILLIAMS JACKSON HOLE Cindee George, C&K Real Estate Group 307/690-3996 cindee@jhreteam.com jhreteam.com

SKI-IN CONDO AT TETON VILLAGE

CLASSIC WESTBANK RETREAT

AT A GLANCE

1,800

SQUARE FEET

BEDROOMS

Beautifully appointed, this spacious 3-bedroom, 3-bath unit located in the heart of Teton Village is ski-in/ski-out and has 24-hour concierge/valet service, daily housekeeping, access to Sena Spa, and underground parking. Owning at the Teton Club provides the simplicity of ownership for you to enjoy a total vacation. Ownership is 4 weeks: Christmas, Prime Ski Week, Prime Spring Week, and Prime Summer Week.

4,794

SQUARE FEET

BEDROOMS

BATHS

295,000

UPON REQUEST

DOLLARS

23-722 MLS#

DOLLARS

KELLER WILLIAMS JACKSON HOLE Nancy Martino • 307/690-1022 nancymartino@kw.com

Idyllic mountain home just 5 minutes to downtown Wilson. Comfortable floor plan in a very private setting with mature landscaping and scenic mountain views from every window. No CC&Rs, not in a subdivision. Hardwood floors, vaulted ceilings, hydronic in-floor heat, large home office, 3-car garage.

22-3165 MLS#

JACKSON HOLE SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Spackman & Associates • 914/588.2302 spackmans@jhsir.com spackmansinjacksonhole.com

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

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COURTESY PHOTO

ARTS, CULTURE, FOOD, AND DESIGN

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

ENJOY FOOD

In the Raw I // BY HELEN OLSSON

Although we're 1,000 miles from a coast, Jackson Hole takes its sushi seriously.

64 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

KING SUSHI

Each of the chefs at King Sushi brings something unique to the menu, showcasing their ideas in the form of nightly specials. “No one chef really steals the show,” says general manager Leigh Alfarano. “It’s really fun to see how each will put their different personalities into the sushi.” The Pressed Maguro, for one, takes a unique approach: instead of the ingredients being rolled, the blue crab, avocado, and tuna are stacked in a bamboo box, layered on top of rice, and topped with a jalapeño puree. The restaurant’s identity as a neighborhood hub hinges on a tightly knit staff that has built relationships with customers over the years. “There’s a playful attitude that’s reflected in the style of our sushi,” Alfarano says. To sample different fish options, order the King Carpaccio, a sashimi plate featuring an array of fish and roe with olive oil and ponzu. Reservations are recommended, but the restaurant keeps the bar open for walk-ins in winter. $27 (Pressed Maguro), $34 (King Carpaccio); open Tuesday–Saturday 4:30–9 p.m.; 75 S. King St., Jackson; 307/264-1630, kingsushijh.com THE KITCHEN

The Kitchen’s menu offers modern American food with Asian influences in a space that mixes warm woods with contemporary materials. Though the menu isn't sushi-specific, executive chef Joe Boyles crafts a changing rotation of fresh fish crudos featuring seasonal ingredients. “Although we’re located in the mountains, thanks to prompt shipping, we are able to get fish that’s just as fresh as the major cities,” says Kendra Alessandro, VP of marketing for the Fine Dining Restaurant Group. “Many Jackson locals travel quite a bit, so they appreciate and have grown to expect quality when it comes to seafood offerings—sushi included.” Standout menu items at The Kitchen include the Hawaiian ono with passionfruit, jalapeño, macadamia nuts, mint, and basil and the tuna with truffle ponzu, avocado, sesame crunch, Fresno chili, cilantro, and sticky rice. $25 (Hawaiian ono and tuna with truffle), open Tuesday–Saturday 5:30–10 p.m.; 155 N. Glenwood St., Jackson; 307/734-1633, thekitchenjacksonhole.com

KATHRYN ZIESIG

n the 1970s, a sushi bar named Osho opened in Los Angeles, catering to Hollywood celebrities. Over the next few decades, sushi grew in popularity, but most people wouldn’t touch a spicy tuna roll in a landlocked state with a 10-inch chopstick. Today, Jackson Hole’s robust array of sushi offerings debunks the myth that you can’t get amazing sushi anywhere but in coastal cities. Global aviation and improved refrigeration technologies continue to decrease the time from boat to plate. Fish purveyors offer daily shipments of seafood that’s flash-frozen hours from the time it’s caught. (In fact, FDA guidelines require raw fish to be flash-frozen to kill parasites, whether it’s headed to a sushi bar in California or Wyoming.) Flash-frozen is the new fresh. And that means here in the mountains of northwest Wyoming, you can get your nigiri fix at an upscale bistro—or at the supermarket, a few aisles over from the sliced bread.

COURTESY PHOTO

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

ENJOY

KATHRYN ZIESIG

FOOD

SUDACHI Sudachi is named for a green citrus fruit native to Japan that looks like a lime but tastes zestier. Sudachi delivers a worldclass sushi experience—and a little zest—to our landlocked town. The restaurant’s mission is to celebrate the best flavors and qualities of the Japanese sushi culture. Here the focus is on ingredients that are both sustainable and fresh. Fish is sourced from quality purveyors in Japan, Hawaii, and around the coastal continental U.S. At the helm of Sudachi since 2009, chef and co-owner Dustin Rasnick prepares a nightly specialty fish sourced from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market. “For many years, we’ve been fortunate to cultivate proprietary relationships with fish purveyors around the world,” he says. “This accessibility enables us to deliver unique and exquisite dining experiences.” Don’t miss the Maguro Maki roll: Hawaiian big-eye tuna wrapped around Maine lobster and finished with Ossetra caviar and truffle dashi soy. Make a reservation for omakase, the chef’s nightly tasting menu. $36 (Maguro Maki); open Tuesday–Saturday 5–9 p.m.; 3465 N. Pines Way #103, Wilson; 307/734-7832, sudachijh.com

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NOODLE KITCHEN & SUSHI

Opened in 2021, Kampai’s approach to contemporary Japanese fare is to stay creative while keeping things simple and fresh. Chef Chris Massad studied Japanese cuisine at Washoku Cooking at Kyoto’s Taiwa Gakuen. In 2018, he won second place in the Washoku World Challenge, a cooking contest organized by Japan’s Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries for nonJapanese chefs. He worked at Ginza’s Sushi Tokami under head chef Shota Oda, and he helped Nobu Matsuhisa open Matsuhisa in Vail. “At Kampai, I want to explore and learn about the products I am using,” says Massad, who has a longstanding relationship with Sakasyu, a purveyor that sources fish from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market. “I think it’s important to know the people who make the products—the people who obsess over the little things, because getting the details dialed makes those products exceptional.” As such, at the sushi bar, you’ll find nigiri brushed with soy sauce from Yamaki Jozo, a fifth-generation brewery founded in 1902 in Kamikawa, a town northwest of Tokyo. Crafted from a simple lineup of ingredients, including organic soybeans and mountain spring water, the soy sauce is aged two years in cedar barrels. “It’s one of the finest soy sauces available in the world,” says Massad. On the menu, try the Ayn Rand-inspired John Galt roll: yellowtail, crispy garlic, grilled scallions, cilantro, and yuzu miso. $25 (John Galt roll); open Tuesday–Saturday 5–9:30 p.m.; 175 Center St., Jackson; 307/201-5329, kampaijh.com

COURTESY PHOTO

KAMPAI

Noodle Kitchen has been pairing build-your-own noodle bowls from all corners of Asia with house-crafted cocktails since 2014. The vibe is laidback and welcoming, and half-off hot starters, house-made cocktails, and eight draft wines draw locals to the bar for happy hour. Noodle Kitchen’s sushi bar is manned by sushi chef Minn Khunt, who works with culinary director Jeremy Williamson to create menu standards and nightly specials that won’t break the bank. “I think people get turned off when they think about sushi in a landlocked state,” says Brooke Rice, regional VP of the Blue Collar Restaurant Group. “But we get our fish flown in fresh; they catch it and ship it to us. It’s as fresh as it can get.” Blue Collar works with purveyor Hook to Fork to procure responsibly sourced fresh fish at an affordable price. The White Dragon is a signature roll with spicy tuna, avocado, and cucumber topped with torched hamachi, ginger-garlic, spicy aioli, sweet soy, sesame seeds, and crispy shallots. $22 (White Dragon); open daily 4:30–9 p.m.; 945 W. Broadway Ave., Jackson; 307/734-1997; noodlekitchenjh.com

COURTESY PHOTO

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

ENJOY FOOD

WHOLE FOODS

68 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

with curry-spiced cream cheese with kimchi, cucumber, and seasoned rice in a carrot-ginger wrap, topped with sweet chili sauce and dried chili pepper shreds.” Whole Foods also offers rolls using plant-based spicy tuna and crab from Konscious Foods. Prime members can save on sushi on Thursdays. $9–$16; open daily 8 a.m.–9 p.m., sushi available while supplies last; 1155 U.S. 89, Jackson; 307/733-0450, wholefoodsmarket.com JH

When you're looking for a quick sushi fix, there's Whole Foods. Here the sushi is made by Genji Sushi, a Japanese restaurant in Philadelphia that started providing sushi to Whole Foods in 1997, makes all of the sushi sold at Jackson’s Whole Foods. And it’s all made on-site. Every roll is made fresh daily by Genji’s trained team of sushi chefs. The sushi program is ever-evolving and features seasonal rolls, says Chris Scarano, innovation chef at Whole Foods. “Two of my favorite rolls, introduced in late 2023, include the Mango Yuzu California roll—which is made with kanikama crab salad tossed in a tangy yuzu soy dressing with avocado, cucumber, and seasoned rice in a mango wrap and topped with Tajin tempura crisps— and the Carrot Curry Kimchi roll, made

of Jackson Hole

Bring out the best in every bottle

Western Wyoming’s only climatecontrolled wine storage facility.

Whether you are a wine collector, investor, restaurateur or just starting a collection we have the storage option for you. 307.248.6392 • Vaultofjh.com Located just 4 miles south of Jackson

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Join Us For Traditional COURTESY PHOTO

Fondue, Raclette & other Swiss specialities in the Alpenhof Lodge next to the Tram in Teton Village

A Swiss Hotel & Restaurant In the Tetons 307.733.3242 • alpenhoflodge.com • 3255 Village Dr, Teton Village

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

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Wyoming Wine // BY HELEN OLSSON // PHOTOGRAPHY BY KATHRYN ZIESIG

The grapes come from California, but Jackson Hole Winery does everything else to make its award-winning wines in a barn in Wilson.

Jackson Hole Winery has two tasting rooms—one in downtown Jackson and one at the winery in Wilson.

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uring college at Sonoma State University, Anthony Schroth took a wine business class that required an internship. Stomping grapes at a Napa Valley winery planted the seed for an audacious idea: to start a winery at an elevation of 6,229 feet on his family’s 17-acre property in Jackson Hole. “I knew I wanted to have my own label,” Schroth says. The property’s 100-year-old dairy barn with Grand Teton views, he figured, would be an idyllic spot for a tasting room. “I thought the artistry and process of winemaking was just so fascinating,” says Schroth, whose senior project was developing a business plan for starting a winery. He tried growing vines in Wyoming, but summer frosts and a short growing season made it impossible. “Random cold snaps would just wipe out the vineyard,” he says. The solution: harvest grapes from California; truck them in bins with dry ice pellets; and then crush, ferment, hand-press, and barrelage the wine in Wyoming. What made it difficult to grow grapes in Wyoming turned out to be a boon to the wine’s quality. Thin air combined with cool temps translates to longer fermentation and barrel-aging times. “The longer fermentation allows us to get good tannin extraction out of the skin for color and flavor,” Schroth says. Cool temps during the barrel aging also mean fewer sulfites are needed to control microbial activity. Jackson Hole Winery produces some 4,000 cases yearly, hosting wine tastings in an in-town tasting room and, by reservation, in the winery’s tongue-and-groove barn. (Tastings start at $35 per person.) You’ll find the wine at most restaurants around town, including Bin22, Figs, and Gather. Pick up a bottle at wine shops like Westside Wine & Spirits or Plaza Liquors. Or join the Wolfpack Wine Club to have bottles delivered twice yearly to your door. jacksonholewinery.com; 307/201-1057

RETAIL, RENTAL & REPAIR

TRUST THE SHOP THAT’S BEEN

SKIING & BIKING SINCE 1976

TASTING NOTES: THREE TO TRY 2022 VIOGNIER

2020 PINOT NOIR

2019 THE SHERIFF

The winery’s viognier is a dry, crisp white varietal that earned Best of Class at the 2019 Sonoma Harvest Fair. The grapes are crushed in Sonoma County and then shipped to Wyoming to finish the winemaking process. “It’s one of my favorite white wines,” Schroth says. “It has beautiful aromatics with hints of white peach and apricot. It’s just delicious.” The wine is produced in a stainless steel tank with a single fermentation that helps retain a crisp acidity. Fun fact: the viognier grape was near extinction in the mid1980s, with just 80 acres of the vines remaining. $30

The Schroths farm their pinot noir grapes on dedicated plots in California's Russian River Valley. This perennially goldaward-winning wine offers a complex bouquet of aromas— black cherry and strawberry with light spice undertones. The wine is aged for 18 months in 35 percent new French oak barrels, delivering a refined wine with a smooth, elegant finish. $44

The Sheriff is a Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon—a rich, layered, and bold wine that pairs great with steak. Aging for 24 months in 70 percent new French oak barrels gives it depth and complexity. “It’s a wine we’re experimenting with,” Schroth says. “The fruit is very expensive, but we’re really excited about it.” It has a big, round mouth feel and notes of blackberry, black currant, and black licorice. Although it’s ready to drink now, this bottle promises to age well. $115 JH

Hoback Sports is your onestop shop for in-town rentals, legendary boot-sitting expertise and hand-finished tunes. Let the friendly and knowledgeable staff at Hoback Sports help get the gear you need for skiing and snowboarding in-bounds or in the backcountry. Shop top brands like Blizzard, Mammut, Tecnica, Atomic, Burton, Jones, Spark R&D, Dalbello, Smarwool, Flylow and Norrona. Hoback Sports is your local gear headquarters – stop in before heading out!

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JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

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TASTE OF JACKSON HOLE

Snake River Grill’s Potato Pancakes // BY SAMANTHA SIMMA

ears pass and seasons change, but you can always find the Potato Pancake on the menu at the Snake River Grill. The version on the menu this winter looks a little different though (more on that below). The starter is as much of an institution as the fine-dining restaurant itself. Since its founding in 1993—it’s been in the same location just off Jackson’s Town Square since it opened—the Grill’s accolades have included being nominated for Best Chef Northwest by the James Beard Foundation and feature articles in magazines like Wine Spectator, Bon Appetit, and Gourmet. The idea for the original potato pancake came from the Grill’s founding managing partner, August Spier. “He discovered it while dining out, brought the idea to our original chef, and asked him to recreate it,” says managing partner Katie Cooper. After 30 years, "There are a few factors that have lead us to change it," Cooper says. "We need to remind ourselves that it's ok to grow and change." Also, the new version is gluten free. And bite-sized. An elevated version of crispy hash browns fried in butter, the potato cubes are topped with a shallot sour cream that is made in-house, sustainably raised Atlantic salmon from Catsmo Smokehouse, and chives. “We’ve found a way to improve the dish while maintaining the same original concept,” says chef Addison Fleming. “It’s important to honor tradition, but also to embrace forward momentum, so we decided to give our most tried and true of SRG classics a breath of fresh air.” $23; open for dinner at 5 p.m. Monday–Saturday; 84 E. Broadway Ave.; 307/733-0557, snakerivergrill.com

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ORIGINAL POTATO PANCAKE RECIPE

2 Idaho russet potatoes, peeled ½ large white onion ½ tsp. white pepper ¼ cup all-purpose flour (the original potato pancake was not gluten-free) 3 tsp. lemon juice Butter or oil for frying Cold smoked salmon and diced chives for serving Grate the potatoes and onion. Combine, seasoning with white pepper. Squeeze the mixture in your hands to remove excess starch and moisture. Add flour and lemon juice, mixing well. To cook, use a medium flat sauté pan. Add two tablespoons of butter or oil of choice to the pan. Add about one cup of potato mixture to the pan. Spread out by hand to form a round, flat shape. Cook over medium-high heat until golden brown. Flip using a spatula and cook the other side for another 4–5 minutes or until toasted brown in color.

B R A D LY J . B O N E R

This elevated, iconic take on hash browns got its first refresh in 30 years.

SHALLOT SOUR CREAM

1 cup sour cream 4 tbsp. lemon juice 1 tsp. kosher salt ¾ tsp. cracked black pepper

Combine all ingredients and mix well. After the potato pancake is completely cooked, spread two tablespoons of the shallot sour cream on one side. Garnish the pancake with cold smoked salmon and sprinkle with diced chives. JH

B R A D LY J . B O N E R

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

ENJOY ART

Western materials including fur and leather play off contemporary art featuring classic Western motifs and bold colors in this home by Vera Iconica Architecture and WRJ Design.

74 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

Old &New Mixing traditional Western and wildlife art with modern pieces can create a more interesting collection and interiors. // BY MAGGIE THEODORA

TUCK FAUNTLEROY

“I

see a movement away from art that’s expected in a home, either in tone or style,” says Chad Repinski, director of Jackson’s Diehl Gallery. “Collectors are shunning the idea of ‘matchy-matchy,’ which can free them to install art that stands on its own.” In Jackson Hole, this movement away from the expected and matchy-matchy means collectors and homes that increasingly blend traditional wildlife and Western art with contemporary/modern art and aesthetics. Twenty years ago, traditional Western and wildlife art dominated Jackson Hole, at both galleries and our National Museum of Wildlife Art, which has a permanent collection of more than 4,000 works. There were a handful of galleries that represented artists who did nonrepresentational work, but the largest galleries focused on photo-realistic artworks featuring wildlife, Native Americans, and Western landscapes and life as their subjects. Two of these galleries, including Trailside Galleries, which had been a leader in the valley’s art scene since it opened on the Town Square in 1963, recently closed. Meanwhile, galleries representing artists whose work is nonrepresentational are growing in number. It isn’t only galleries that are expanding the styles of art they exhibit. The NMWA’s collection has been growing to include more abstract, modern works. Currently, after exploring galleries that feature traditional works by artists JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

ENJOY

AUDREY HALL

ART

including Carl Rungius, Albert Bierstadt, and Wilhelm Kuhnert, museum visitors emerge to Ai Weiwei’s Zodiac (Tiger), which is made from thousands of plastic Lego bricks. Not currently on exhibit, but part of the museum’s permanent collection is Andy Warhol’s 10-piece Endangered Species portfolio. “Growing up in Jackson, I adored the original approach of the [NMWA],” says Kathryn Mapes Turner, a painter and gallery owner for 19 years. “Founder Bill Kerr had an incredible eye and found very timeless works of art. And I feel like the collection has grown up alongside Jackson’s appreciation for more diverse art. It’s been really fun and refreshing to see an insurgence of more contemporary styles come to different galleries and the museum.” Interior designer Shannon White Burns says the willingness to mix traditional and modern works and aesthetics makes for more layered and interesting interiors. “If I were

AUDREY HALL

This bedroom in a home designed by Pearson Design Group features photography by Nick Brandt alongside natural textures and materials.

Tracey Byrne did the interiors in this Locati-designed ski-in/ski-out home.

I think there is a slow shift away from traditional " Western art in Jackson Hole; that used to be the king here.” — MADISON WEBB STANKO, THE FORMER DIRECTOR OF THE JACKSON HOLE ART AUCTION AND NOW THE DIRECTOR OF MARKETING AT THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF WILDLIFE ART

76 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

DAVID YARROW Stunning works from a pioneer of fine art photography, now on display in our showroom.

130 E. Broadway • Jackson, WY Monday through Friday 9–5, Saturday 11–6 and by appointment Call: 866-549-9278 Email: sales@jacksonholartauction.com Visit: jacksonholeartauction.com/david-yarrow

David Yarrow (b. 1966), Parts Unknown archival pigment print artist proof 3, 84 x 71 in. framed

On view through April 21, 2024 at the National Museum of Wildlife Art WILDLIFE ART.ORG © Rian van Schalkwyk / Mkapa Awards

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

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AUDREY HALL/COURTESY JLF ARCHITECTS

staging a home to photograph, I might make sure everything matches and is the same style. There is a logic and calmness to this that may appeal to most people,” she says. “But I’d never do that in a home clients will be living in. My goal isn’t to create an interior that feels like a museum, but an interior that tells the stories of where it is and the people who live in it.” Diehl Gallery’s Repinski says, “When I see a home that has been rigorous in its adherence to overall design, it feels cold and overly intentional. Even in places as iconic as the West, we want to bridge and juxtapose old with new.” The artists at Turner’s Gallery, Turner Fine Art, create in a variety of styles. When this story was being written, hanging in the gallery was a hyperrealistic 47-x-47-inch oil painting of a hummingbird’s head (by painter Tony Pridham), oil paintings by Bethanne Cople that Turner describes as “poetic,” and Turner’s own paintings, which she says, “transcend boxes like ‘traditional’ or ‘contemporary.’” Such a diversity of styles could be confusing and disjointed, but there is a thread that ties them together. “When I look at and create art, my question isn’t if it’s traditional or contemporary, but rather, ‘Is it true?’” says Turner. “I think that when artists paint and create from an authentic place, we have more of a chance of being timeless with our work. That is what I look for in my own work and in the work of artists in the gallery.” The artists in Turner Fine Art create in different styles, but the works are connected by a sense of timelessness. “It doesn’t have to be something as obvious as style, palette, or subject matter that holds a collection or interior together,” says Burns, who has been doing interiors in Jackson since 2001. Madison Webb Stanko, the former director of the Jackson Hole Art Auction and now the director of marketing at the National Museum of Wildlife Art, says that something as simple as collectors liking all of the pieces can be enough to give a collection continuity. Carrie Wild, a painter and the co-owner of Gallery Wild and Altamira This JLF Architects-designed home features nonrepresentational wildlife art and a says, “When buying art for your home, you should buy art traditional Western materials palette. that you like. If you’re putting contemporary work in a traditional home or vice versa, or putting contemporary and traditional pieces near each other—if you like the art, it just finds a way to work.” The week before Repinski was interviewed for this story, he was in a “beautiful — CHAD REPINSKI, DIRECTOR OF JACKSON’S DIEHL GALLERY ‘modern West’ home” that displayed traditional Western tapestries, abstract photography, and a work by Diehl Gallery artist Juan Carlos Collada, whose pieces are made up of butterflies created with painted features. “Underlying themes of color, style, or artist become less important than reflecting the character and experiences of the collector," says Repinski. "Good art will always stand on its own and improve any room. If there’s meaning, it belongs.” JH

When I see a home that has been rigorous in its " adherence to overall design, it feels cold and overly

intentional. Even in places as iconic as the West, we want to bridge and juxtapose old with new.”

78 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

Coeur d’Alene Art Auction Fine Western & American Art

Best in the West – Coeur d’Alene Art Auction Realized Over $24 Million in 2023 Auction Sales.

The Auction is now accepting quality consignments for our 2024 Auction to be held July 27 in Reno, Nev. Visit our website at cdaartauction.com 208-772-9009 • info@cdaartauction.com

Tom Lovell (1909 – 1997), The Blackfeet Wall (detail), oil on canvas, 40 × 32 inches, Estimate: $ 200,000 – 300,000

ENJOY CULTURE

Still a Hoot // BY JIM STANFORD

// PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRADLY J. BONER

80 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

In its 31st year, the acoustic music gathering the Hootenanny continues to delight performers and audiences.

moke wafted from the campfire beneath the Moose bridge late one July night in 1958 as a motley band of climbers and folk musicians huddled around the riverfront campsite of Bill Briggs. An aspiring climber and ukulele player working for the summer on a highway crew, Briggs had boiled tea in a big black kettle and poured a bottle of cheap wine from Dornans into it. When the pickers and singers arrived, about 8 or 10 in all, they each dumped a bottle or flask—usually wine but sometimes moonshine or anything alcoholic—into the mix to make what came to be known as “Teton Tea.” Dick Barker, a redheaded fishing guide from Carmichael’s Tackle Shop, came down from his family’s home on Ditch Creek. Barker had been spending summers in Moose while on break from Colorado State University, guiding fishermen and playing folk music to entertain guests at many of the dude ranches, where he met Briggs. The troubadour joined the circle sitting on river rocks and strummed an old guitar. Eventually, the parties drew quite a crowd, and after a group of bikers called the Vulgarians took part, the Park Service chased Briggs from beneath the bridge, citing too much smoke from his campfire. Sixty-five years later, the spirit of these “Teton Tea Parties” lives on, and the strains of folk music from impromptu jams can be heard at the weekly Hootenanny. The acoustic open mic takes place at 6 p.m. every Monday in the Wort Hotel’s Silver Dollar Bar in downtown Jackson from December through March. In summer it shifts to its traditional home at Dornans in Moose. Craft beers and cocktails have replaced Teton Tea as the beverages of choice, but the

There have been more than 1,300 Hootenannies since its inception in 1993. Many of the performers are residents who have played dozens or hundreds of Hoots, but the event attracts seasonal workers and even visitors passing through. Organizers keep meticulous track of who performs each night, often recording audio or video. In the winter, the Hoot is at the Silver Dollar Bar in downtown Jackson; in summer, it is at Dornans in Moose (shown).

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

ENJOY CULTURE

An ensamble of Hootenanny regulars plays at a special performance at the Center for the Arts.

fire crackles in the Wort’s lobby, and music and kinship still warm the soul, particularly on long winter nights. Some of the tunes are even the same, protest songs and working-class anthems—and among the regular performers is Briggs, who turned 92 in December. After several attempts to host a folk festival and coffeehouse in the 1960s, Barker and Briggs started the Hootenanny in 1993 when they persuaded Bob Dornan that they could draw a larger crowd to the bar than Monday Night

Ward attributed the event’s success to Briggs’s “patient, positive persistence in a warm and approachable way that attracted musicians from near and far.” Football. Instantly, the event became a hit. What distinguished the Hoot was its emphasis on listening: no talking is allowed while performers are on stage. The musicians use no plug-in amplified instruments, only microphones. Last February, when the Hootenanny celebrated its 30th anniversary,

82 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

Bill Briggs has been a longtime performer and emcee since co-founding the Hoot in 1993.

Briggs recounted how he and Barker used to see professional musicians perform at places like the Wort, and they wondered if they, too, could put on such a concert. “Here we are, and we’re not pro, and we still have a crowd of people,” Briggs said. He closed his eyes, strummed his autoharp, and began crooning Woody Guthrie’s “Roll On, Columbia,” which he had performed at the very first Hootenanny. “Roll on, Columbia, roll on!” Briggs sang as the audience joined in on the chorus. “The power is turning our darkness to dawn.” Like the song, celebrating hydropower on the river, the Hootenanny rolls on, a light through winter’s darkness, with all sorts of performers staying true to the tradition. John Denver, in town for concerts at Teton Village, played a few tunes in 1996. There are guitars, banjos, fiddles, harmonicas, and an occasional dulcimer or a cappella voice. Each musician signs up that night to perform one or two songs, and sometimes they decide to collaborate on the spot. Styles range from folk, country, and bluegrass to a bit of rock. The performances can span generations, as when singer and guitarist John Sidle—who took part in one of Briggs’ tea parties in Schenectady, New York, in 1961 and moved to Jackson Hole

in 1969—is joined by his son, Rob, on standup bass for “The Drift,” a song the elder Sidle wrote about Green River Valley cattle moving down from the mountains each fall “racing ahead of the fast-falling snow.” Peter Ward, emcee of the 30th anniversary, first performed at the Hoot in 1995, when he proposed to his wife, Adrienne, another regular performer, on stage. Ward attributed the event’s success to Briggs’s “patient, positive persistence in a warm and approachable way that attracted musicians from near and far.” Today, on any given week, a cowboy could roll into town off a ranch in a 10-gallon hat with spurs still on his boots and strum a guitar after—or even along with—kids in tie-dyes and sandals. Barbara Barker, 85, wife of the late co-founder, still helps organize the event. When she was in college, working for the summer at the Block S Ranch (now Lost Creek Ranch), she would borrow a car from a park ranger to drive to Moose to listen at the Teton Tea Parties. “It was fantastic,” she says. “Everybody played nice, old folk tunes. It was really interesting music.” After a recent Hoot, held a stone’s throw from the Moose bridge before an overflowing crowd, the glimmer in her eye attested to the night’s enduring magic. JH

2023-24 YEAR-ROUND EVENTS TICKETS ON SALE NOW AT GTMF.ORG | All performances at Center for the Arts, Jackson

The Most Wonderful Time of the Year

Time for Three

Experience the magic of the season with holiday classics and a Broadway cast. Tickets $50-$85; children/students $10-$30

This GRAMMY® Award-winning trio stands at the intersection of Americana, pop and classical music. Tickets $50-$85; children/students $10-$30

Wednesday, December 20 at 7 PM

Sunday, February 4 at 4 PM

The above concerts are supported in part by the Western States Arts Federation (WESTAF) and the National Endowment for the Arts

THE MET OPERA IN HD SERIES This series is supported in part by Center for the Arts | Tickets $25; children/students $5

Dead Man Walking

Carmen

In this highly anticipated Met premiere, Joyce DiDonato and Ryan McKinny headline the contemporary drama based on Sister Helen Prejean’s memoir.

A new production of one of opera’s most enduringly powerful works. Dazzling Aigul Akhmetshina leads a powerhouse quartet of stars.

Sunday, January 28 at 3 PM

Florencia en el Amazonas

Sunday, February 11 at 3 PM

Daniel Catán’s 1996 opera tells the story of a Brazilian opera diva searching for her lover who has vanished into the jungle. Ailyn Pérez stars as Florencia.

Sunday, March 24 at 3 PM

La Rondine

Sunday, June 2 at 3 PM

Puccini’s bittersweet love story makes a rare appearance, with Angel Blue starring as the courtesan Magda and Jonathan Tetelman in his Met debut.

ENJOY DESIGN

84 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

Hot Stuff Fireplaces can take many forms. // BY LILA EDYTHE

ED RIDDELL/COURTESY OF ANKENY ARCHITECTS

love my current home in East Jackson. It has lots of natural light, fun colors on the walls, amazing decks, and all of the appliances work. And yet, several times every winter—never in the summer—I wish myself back to a mold-infested, barely insulated apartment that had a hole in the ceiling in the living room and no water pressure in the shower. Why do I wish myself back there? It had a wood-burning stove. I don’t miss the three tedious and tiring days my roommates and I spent splitting and stacking wood every fall, but I miss the soundtrack of cracking and popping wood and coming home from a day of storm skiing wet and cold, quickly stripping down to my base layers, and standing in front of the wood-burning stove soaking in the heat like a sea lion basking in the sun.

Architect Shawn Ankeny worked with WRJ Design on this double-sided wood-burning fireplace. One side faces the dining room; the other side, seen in this photo, faces the great room. “The fireplace acts as an anchor, or pivot point, between these two spaces,” Ankeny says. “But, at the same time, it creates a divider so that each space feels separate but connected.” Rush Jenkins, CEO and co-founder at WRJ Design says this fireplace is unique: “It has the double-sided views from living room to dining room, while also creating a central symmetrical focal point for both rooms.” Ankeny calls out that the hearth is composed of only three large stones. The fireplace doors facing the dining and great rooms are different. On this side, the doors are custom screens with handles that, when together, form the homeowner’s brand. The patina on the handles matches the hardware elsewhere in the house.

“Our landscape and climate solely take care of building a relationship with one’s fireplace,” says interior designer Kate Binger, who founded the boutique interior design studio Dwelling in 2006. “Nothing comes close to being more delightful than games or a book in front of a fire during one of our winters.” Architect Shawn Ankeny, founder of Ankeny Architecture and Design, says fireplaces provide a natural place to gather around. “Sitting near a fireplace warms your soul,” she says. While the fireplace I dream of is a woodburner, gas fireplaces are more common in Teton County, which has restrictions on the number of wood-burning fireplaces a residence can have. Gas fireplaces have some benefits over wood, too. “Gas fireplaces are less expensive,” says Chris Jaubert, principal at A43 Architecture. “They are easier—you turn them on and off; there’s no splitting logs, or buying wood, or bugs in the wood, and they are less maintenance.” Binger says her clients are split about 50-50 on wood versus gas fireplaces. There is one big drawback to a gas fireplace. “Crackling wood adds to the environment, and you don’t get that out of a gas fireplace,” Jaubert says. Karen Parent, managing principal at Dynia Architects, adds, “With a wood-burning fireplace, there is more change within the fire itself, rather than a constant size flame and shape.” Still, whether gas or wood-burning, Ankeny says, “The reason most people put a fireplace in a room is for warmth, whether that is physical warmth or warmth for the spirit.”

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

ENJOY

DAVID AGNELLO/COURTESY DYNIA ARCHITECTS

DESIGN

86 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

MAT THEW MILLMAN

KEVIN SCOT T/COURTESY CLB ARCHITECTS

This double-sided, board-formed concrete fireplace is one of the main features in a home designed by Dynia Architects. “It is a dramatic divider between the dining room and living room,” says Dynia’s Karen Parent. “This homeowner wanted a distinct separation between these two rooms as well as spaces with fundamentally different character.” The two steps between the dining and living rooms are key to this fireplace serving the function of each room. “In the dining room, the fire is high enough to be seen from the dining table,” Parent says. “And on the living room side, the fireplace has a seat-height hearth, which makes that side very cozy.” While you might guess a concrete fireplace takes less skill to fabricate than a masonry fireplace, Parent says that’s not the case: “Concrete and masonry are equally difficult.” The contractor who performed the work on this fireplace, Peak Builders, had to get crew members inside the fireplace mass to put up the forms before the concrete was poured. “It was a tight space in which a lot of detailed work was executed,” Parent says. “We wanted variety in the surface of the concrete itself, so much thought and care were given to the relief created by the formwork.”

The clients behind this home felt strongly about having a fireplace in the dining area, but placing it directly adjacent compromised the mountain views. “By locating the fireplace in the corner and adding in a secondary lounge space, we were able to create a cozy, multifunctional space perfect for a formal dining setting or a casual après-ski gathering,” says Jaye Infanger, senior designer at CLB Architects and Design, who developed this project in collaboration with the Illuminus Group. Being in a corner, this fireplace could feel heavy and overbearing. Instead, because it is more open than a traditional fireplace, it feels light and airy. “The sculptural quality of the fireplace enhances the overall look and feel of the home,” Infanger says.

This space in a home designed by CLB Architects and Design is nestled within an aspen canopy. A Danish-made RAIS woodburning stove “complements the airy and light-filled volume, allowing the user to coexist within expansive views of the outdoors,” says Halie Dedering, interior project coordinator at CLB. “The overall design is minimal yet timeless, following suit with the rest of the house.” The minimal design—of both the home and the fireplace—heightens the emphasis on the views.

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

ENJOY

The owners of this home wanted wood-burning fireplaces in their primary bedroom and adjacent sitting room. Paul Bertelli of JLF Architects put two fireplaces into a single mass. “It’s a simple, beautiful mass that’s a floating monolith in the room,” Bertelli says. Because the homeowners liked contemporary designs, there are no shoulders or ornament. “The focus is on the texture of the stone,” Bertelli says. There is stone throughout the home, and the stones in these fireplaces were deliberately sourced. “Masonry can be very masculine,” Bertelli says. “To add some feminine feel, [we] parsed this mass with lighter tones and smaller stones.” Both of these fireplaces have Rumford boxes, which ensure they’re a source of heat and not just something pretty to look at.

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AUDREY HALL/COURTESY JLF ARCHITECTS

R YA N D O R G A N/C O U R T E S Y P R I C E W E S T A R C H I T E C T U R E

DESIGN

“The Japandi aesthetic of the interiors of this house called for a [fireplace] that was simple, sleek, and provided a view of the flame on three sides,” says architect Alison Price, who founded Price West Architecture in 2019. “This Jolly Mec V-Sion pellet stove fit perfectly. Pellet stoves are not unique to the U.S. market, but the high design aesthetic offered by Jolly Mec is undeniable.” The energy-efficient unit provides 84,000 BTUs, connects to Wi-Fi (so it can be ignited via a homeowner’s phone), and offers ducting. “In this case, we ducted the stove to a room below, which can be controlled by a damper within the unit,” Price says.

LINDLEY RUST/COURTESY A43 ARCHITECTS

Before Chris Jaubert and A43 Architecture did a complete remodel on this 900-squarefoot guest cabin above Spring Gulch, it was a divided space with a wood-burning fireplace in a stucco surround. To open it up and create a focal point, Jaubert replaced the fireplace with a Hearthstone Tula woodburning stove and tucked it up against a wall. The original fireplace was “a large mass that subdivided the living room,” Jaubert says. “Even though this wood-burner is smaller and less obtrusive than the prior fireplace, it is a focal point in a way the fireplace wasn’t. Bigger isn’t always better. Benefits beyond its aesthetics are that it is elegant and looks good when not burning a fire.” When there is a fire, Jaubert says it burns efficiently and puts off a lot of heat. JH

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

ENJOY HEALTH

Holistic

90 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

Healing // BY BEVIN WALLACE

ADOBE STOCK

Complementary therapies offer diverse paths to pain relief— without pills.

y orthopedic doc said I was wasting my money and time when, after almost two years of MRIs, steroids, injections, and PT, I told him I was going to see a chiropractor for my ongoing hip pain. “There is no evidence that chiropractic works,” he said, sighing. To which I replied, “At this point, it can’t hurt.” After about six weeks of regular visits to the chiropractor, who I’d heard was a “miracle worker,” my pain was gone. I didn’t even need the daily dose of Advil I’d taken for ages. It does seem like a miracle. Chiropractic is just one form of complementary pain management. The long list of these therapies, many of which have been used throughout history, includes acupuncture, yoga, hypnosis, biofeedback, aromatherapy, herbal remedies, massage, grounding, diets, supplements, CBD, guided imagery and visualization, therapeutic touch, reiki, tai chi, relaxation, meditation, magnets, and copper. Oh, and snake oil—which is how many in the medical establishment (like my doctor) tend to characterize them. Although some if not all of these therapies can be effective and the body of research into them is growing rapidly, most still have not been scientifically studied to the extent that many physicians feel comfortable exclusively prescribing them. Yet they are gaining in popularity and acceptance, especially among frustrated patients who aren’t

finding relief from traditional Western medicine. “More and more people are looking for integrative methods that can be beneficial,” says Kevin Meehan, a licensed acupuncturist and owner of Teton Valley Health Clinic, an integrative health clinic in downtown Jackson. “The resistance by modern medical doctors is an impediment to people getting better. We need to look at injuries and health conditions from all perspectives.” A large variety of these perspectives are available in Jackson Hole. “Jackson is very holistic,” says Francine Padrón Bartlett, founder of Medicine Wheel Wellness in Jackson. “There are a ton of wellness practitioners doing a lot of different and interesting things here.” In her practice, Padrón Bartlett, who

More and more " people are looking for

integrative methods that can be beneficial.” — KEVIN MEEHAN, ACUPUNCTURIST

has a doctorate in physical therapy, emphasizes the four aspects of wellbeing—physical, mental, emotional, and spiritual health—to come up with a care plan for her clients, who, not surprisingly, are mostly “active, sporty JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

ENJOY people,” she says. Medicine Wheel Wellness seeks to integrate modern medicine with ancient wisdom and principles of nature, and the facility offers an array of services, including guided imagery, deep energy healing, earthing, massage therapy, PT, fitness, yoga, and Chinese medicine. Padrón Bartlett stresses that these therapies should be seen as integrative as opposed to alternative and agrees with Meehan that complementary healing practices can enhance the outcomes of mainstream medicine. “Fifty percent of people in our country do it on their own. They go to a chiropractor, they take herbs, they do mind-body therapies, they do magnets,” says Jed Shay, M.D., medical director for Pain Care Centers of Wyoming. While Shay does advocate “evidence-based" medicine, he believes physicians should have an open mind about considering other options. “We do not rule out alternative medicine at all,” he says. “When a patient has exhausted all evidencebased medicine and has come to us and we have treated them based on traditional medicine and they don’t get the answer they’re looking for, then I would consider complementary medicine.” Over 70 million Americans suffer from chronic pain, according to a 2020 study published in the Journal of Alternative and Complementary Medicine, so more research is needed into these potentially life-improving techniques. Here’s an overview of some of the most common complementary pain-management therapies and what’s currently known about their effectiveness.

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ADOBE STOCK

HEALTH

MIND-BODY TECHNIQUES

Best for: chronic pain, fibromyalgia, cancer pain

ind-body approaches—including progressive muscle relaxation, meditation, yoga, deep breathing, laughter, forest bathing, mindfulness-based stress reduction, hypnosis, guided imagery, biofeedback, tai chi, and cognitive behavioral therapy—aim to change our awareness of pain and how we deal with it. These techniques won’t erase pain, however, according to Heidi Godman, executive editor of the Harvard Health Letter, “They can help change the perception of pain intensity through distraction, relaxation, and reframing our thoughts.” There’s a lot of overlap among these approaches; for example, progressive muscle relaxation is often part of guided meditation, and deep breathing is used in yoga practice. A therapist trained in CBT can help you learn to manage your pain mentally using visualization techniques, and

MBSR uses a form of meditation to help you accept experiences, including pain, in the present moment. A 2019 study published in the journal Evidence-Based Mental Health found MBSR to be as effective as CBT in reducing pain and depression, as well as improving physical function as compared with usual forms of health care. Many people use some form of mind-body medicine, even if they don’t realize they’re doing it. “Do you know what’s the most common form of alternative medicine people use? It’s prayer,” says Shay. Spending time in nature also falls into the category of mind-body healing, and Medicine Wheel’s Bartlett thinks it’s, ironically, what a lot of Jacksonites need. “In the Jackson community, people get outside to conquer,” she says. “We try to teach them to connect with nature, to be heartfelt. There is healing in that.”

CHIROPRACTIC AND MASSAGE

Best for: lower back and neck pain, reduced need for opioids

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ccording to the American Chiropractic Association, over 35 million Americans see a chiropractor at least once a year, and a growing body of research shows it to be generally safe and effective. The results of a 2018 clinical trial published in the JAMA Network open-access medical journal found that “chiropractic care combined with usual medical care for low back pain provides greater pain relief and a greater reduction in disability than medical care alone.” Studies have also shown that it can decrease long-term opioid use: a 2019 study published in Pain Medicine showed that chiropractic users had 64 percent lower odds of receiving an opioid prescription than non-users. Still, Shay points out that more doubleblind randomized studies are needed, and he cautions against seeing a chiropractor before getting a diagnosis from a physician. “You shouldn’t consider alternative medicine exclusively because there is a chance of misdiagnosis. Your back pain could be caused by a more severe condition,” he says. “I tell my patients, go if it helps you, and for some it does, but that’s after you’ve had all the diagnostics and therapeutics used in Western medicine.” Shay says the pain-relieving mechanism in massage is that it increases blood flow to the affected area, which can remove the “nasty byproducts of metabolism;” to the extent that those were causing pain, the pain is reduced. “It also reduces stress, and that is therapeutic,” he says.

ACUPUNCTURE

Best for: headaches, back and neck pain, arthritis, tennis elbow

ADOBE STOCK

n traditional Chinese medicine, acupuncture is believed to balance the flow of energy (qi, pronounced “chi”) in the body. By inserting very thin needles into specific points along the qi’s pathways, practitioners aim to rebalance your energy flow, alleviating symptoms such as pain and inflammation. Western practitioners believe acupuncture points also happen to be places where nerves, muscles, and tendons are stimulated, and that stimulation can boost your body’s natural ability to reduce pain. There have been many studies that demonstrate acupuncture’s effectiveness—including a University of Pennsylvania study of women with joint pain related to breast cancer medication that found a 43 percent reduction in pain severity among the group that received acupuncture compared to the women who just thought they were getting it and the control group. But none have been able to fully explain how acupuncture works within the framework of Western medicine, so acupuncture remains a source of skepticism. However, acupuncture carries very little risk if you see a licensed acupuncturist. After 33 years in Jackson treating adventure-induced injuries in climbers, skiers, and lacrosse players, Meehan says there are plenty of acupuncture nay-sayers who come into his clinic because of its reputation. “But then they become convinced because it works,” he says. JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

ENJOY

DIETARY APPROACHES AND

SUPPLEMENTS Best for: abdominal pain, migraines, neuropathy

ADOBE STOCK

n summarizing a 2020 survey of studies published on the National Institute of Health’s PubMed site, the authors wrote: “Besides classical and alternative methods of treatment described in literature, it was observed that different diets are also a valid solution, due to many components with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory qualities capable to influence chronic pain and to improve the quality of life.” The studies cited benefits for certain conditions from restricting calories as well as gluten-free and lactosefree diets, as well as omega-3, antioxidants, and some supplements, including vitamin E and D3. Meehan also believes in the power of nutrition and supplements, and he says he cured his own Type II diabetes by putting his education in biochemistry and integrative health to use and changing his diet. He now holds patents on several supplements that use the biochemical building blocks of the human body to deliver — FRANCINE PADRÓN BARTLETT, PHYSICAL THERAPIST results, including joint support and weight loss. Much more research is needed to better understand the complex interactions in human nutrition, but it’s fairly well established that a healthy diet can help reduce pain. “One of the conditions we see in patients with chronic pain is obesity,” Shay says. “That extra weight, directly and indirectly, causes increased pain; it directly increases the stress on your body and spine.” So, assuming you’ve been cleared by a doctor, stir that blueberry powder into your smoothie.

Jackson is very holistic. There " are a ton of wellness practitioners doing a lot of different and interesting things here.”

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HEALTH

CBD Best for: muscle and joint pain and inflammation, headaches

annabidiol (CBD) is one of many compounds in Cannabis sativa L. It has no psychoactive effects (it doesn’t make you high), and it is gaining popularity for its purported therapeutic benefits, ranging from better sleep to reduced epileptic seizures and pain relief. A 2020 study review published in Frontiers in Pharmacology showed CBD to be “effective for intractable pain” and that it “increases the bioavailability of analgesics.” However, the authors stressed that more studies are needed, that the use of CBD is context-specific, and that “it should not be used indiscriminately.” They also warned about possible public health hazards from “a tsunami” of unregulated CBD products that could contain toxic compounds and concerns about the effects of CBD on fetal development. JH

Experience Birth at its Best at St. John’s Health

Why Choose the Birth Center at St. John's Health: High Patient Satisfaction At the Birth Center at St. John's Health, we take pride in our outstanding patient satisfaction scores. We are committed to providing an experience that exceeds your expectations, ensuring your comfort and confidence throughout your journey to parenthood. A Trusted Legacy With a long history of providing exceptional care in the region, we've become a cornerstone of support for families. In fact, half of our deliveries each year are to families who live outside of Teton County, Wyoming. Expert Providers Board-certified OB-GYNs and certified midwife providers on our medical staff from Gros Ventre OB-GYN are currently accepting new patients for prenatal care, and look forward to delivering your baby at our award-winning Birth Center. Continued Investment We are continuing to expand the physician staff for labor and delivery services, demonstrating our ongoing commitment to excellence and expanding the program to better serve you. To learn more about the Birth Center at St. John's Health, please visit: www.stjohns.health/birthcenter or call: 307.739.6175 JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024 95

ENJOY

CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE

// BY WHITNEY ROYSTER

HELP!

I have visitors coming and I don't trust their hardiness for winter! SP FRE ECIAL ED EZING ITIO N!

IS IT MY MOTHER? IS SHE COMING? NO

YES t

Will they dress appropriately?

SEEK SHELTER t

OMG. It is my mother.

YES

Are they capable of being outside for more than 15 seconds?

Will they take any direction whatsoever?

YES

Now you got me.

YES

Oh heck yes. They are hardier than I am.

OK. Do they have any interest in education or are they all about themselves? t

YES t

Head to the NMWA, named best wildlife art museum in the country. wildlifeart.org

Walk on bike paths. Park at the Presbyterian church.

But wait. Then they come back! t

ASTORIA HOT SPRINGS 96 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

Cross country up Cache. Start at Skinny Skis.

GALLERIES Whether you’re passionate about plein air, a serious collector of Western paintings by contemporary or deceased masters, or a casual art fan searching for a keepsake to remind you of your time spent here, in Jackson Hole you have the opportunity to enjoy art in a multitude of forms. Over the past two decades, Jackson Hole has grown to become one of the most heralded art centers of the West, popping off the tongues of aficionados alongside the likes of Santa Fe, Palo Alto, and Scottsdale. Begin by visiting some of the galleries highlighted here, which show the diversity of art available in the valley, from traditional wildlife and Western art to contemporary paintings and sculptures. BELLA FINE GOODS

Taking a nod from the exquisite environment surrounding us, our goal at Bella Fine Goods is to inspire and delight you with beauty! Enjoy our upscale collection of fine jewelry, unique home furnishings, fine art, and special gifts. Stop by, or give us a call, and we’ll take care of you with an unforgettable experience! 30 CENTER STREET 307/201-1848 BELLAFINEGOODS.COM

98 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

ALTAMIRA FINE ART

We are a haven for maverick voices in Western Contemporary art. No matter the month or the season, visitors to our downtown gallery will find resonance within our walls. Whether connecting to the contours of an equine outline or recalling a mountain memory within an abstract landscape, our patrons recognize the essential value of art in their lives. Like nature, art stirs our souls—a sentiment we share with as many people as possible through monthly events such as the third Thursday ArtWalk. Stop in for inspiration. Two locations: Scottsdale, AZ and Jackson Hole, WY.

172 CENTER STREET 307/739-4700 ALTAMIRAART.COM

DOWNTOWN DRIGGS ASSOCIATION

From January 15–19 watch eight national teams of artists create monumental and awe-inspiring sculptures out of Teton Valley’s most abundant winter resource— snow! On January 20, a lively community block party takes place from 10 a.m.–4 p.m. at Driggs Plaza. Vote for your favorite sculptures, watch the Quick Sculpt event from 1–2 p.m., drink hot chocolate, shop at plaza vendor booths, and celebrate a beautiful ephemeral art installation. Sculptures will remain standing as weather permits. 60 SOUTH MAIN STREET 216/235-7532 DOWNTOWNDRIGGS.ORG

AZADI FINE RUGS

Established in 1790, AZADI Fine Rugs is owned by one of the oldest rug weaving families in the world. For over two centuries, AZADI Fine Rugs has been honored to share history, art, and culture through the magic of handwoven rugs. With an inventory of over 40,000 in-stock fine rugs, AZADI has given the most refined clients and Interior Designers in the world an unforgettable experience by providing an unparalleled selection of fine quality rugs. 55 NORTH GLENWOOD 307/ 734-0169 AZADIFINERUGS.COM

GALLERY WILD

Gallery Wild is artist owned and operated, showcasing contemporary fine art inspired by wildlife and wild places from both established and emerging artists. Our curated collection of photography, paintings and sculpture is directly influenced by thousands of hours in the field observing, studying and falling in love with all things wild. You are also welcome to explore the artist studio where Carrie Wild and visiting gallery artists share their techniques and artistic process as they create new work.

80 WEST BROADWAY 307/203-2322 GALLERYWILD.COM

JACKSON HOLE ART AUCTION

Visit our new retail gallery featuring stunning photographs by David Yarrow. Capturing the spirit of the American West, these monumental works feature iconic wildlife and evocative scenes of the Old West. A must-see exhibition!

130 E BROADWAY 866/549-9278 JACKSONHOLEARTAUCTION.COM/ DAVID-YARROW

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF WILDLIFE ART

JACKSON HOLE JEWELRY CO.

Crafters and curators of fine jewelry. Representing top Italian jewelry houses including Picchiotti, Chantecler, Fope, and Vendorafa. Service and quality above all else. Home of the iconic Teton Stacking Rings . In love with jewels, inspired to give back. Presenting sponsor of St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital Moonlight on the Mountains Event. Voted best jewelry store in Jackson Hole. TM

60 EAST BROADWAY 307/201-1722 JACKSONHOLEJEWELRY.COM

PEARLS BY SHARI

JW BENNETT

Discover the Shape of Western Style with a Custom Hat Fitting Experience. Founded on a proud Wyoming Heritage that embraces the people, integrity and lasting values of the West, JW Bennett hats are handcrafted using refined skill, attention to detail and traditional techniques. Our style is modern, sophisticated, gritty and beautiful. Visit our boutique for a personal experience and leave with a memory of the Mountain West that is uniquely yours.

55 N. GLENWOOD 307/201-5669 JWBENNETT.COM

WEST LIVES ON GALLERY

Founded in 1987, the National Museum of Wildlife Art is a world-class museum and nonprofit located in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. The Museum’s collection boasts more than 5,000 artworks representing wild animals from around the world. Featuring work by prominent artists such as N.C. Wyeth, Georgia O’Keeffe, Andy Warhol, Bob Kuhn, Albert Bierstadt, and Carl Rungius— the Museum’s unsurpassed permanent collection chronicles much of the history of wildlife in art, from 2500 B.C.E. to the present.

Specializing in Golden South Sea pearls and heirloom strands, Pearls by Shari brings the elegance of pearls to the heart of the Tetons. With over 20 years of pearlbuying experience, Shari Turpin brings unparalleled expertise to each design featured at 90 E. Broadway and Neiman Marcus locations nationwide. Whether you are memorializing your trip to Jackson or want to add a one-of-a-kind pearl design to your jewelry collection, Pearls by Shari features the widest selection of high-quality pearls in the United States. Make an appointment, or stop by our showroom located on the Square.

The West Lives On Gallery features fine art reflecting the rich heritage of the American West. Featuring Western, wildlife and landscape art in our traditional and contemporary galleries. The West Lives On Gallery has been representing over 100 national and regional artists since 1998.

2820 RUNGIUS ROAD 307/733-5771 WILDLIFEART.ORG

90 E. BROADWAY 307/734-0553 PEARLSBYSHARI.COM

55 & 75 N. GLENWOOD 307/734-2888 WESTLIVESON.COM

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

Looking out over the Snake River Valley and snow-capped peaks of the Tetons through floor to ceiling windows, Amangani’s redwoodpanelled restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Wines With Altitude

nes Wi g n i winn

Awar

Downtown Tasting Room at 98 Center Street

(accepting walk-ins)

Summer Tasting Room at 2800 Boyles Hill Road (appointment needed)

Tastings By Appointment 2800 Boyles Hill Road • Jackson, WY

307.201.1057 • www.jacksonholewinery.com

Call 307-201-1057 or email us at jacksonholewinery@gmail.com

This quaint spot in Wilson was originally opened in 1982, and has been a local favorite ever since. The 100- year old log cabin is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and pizza 7 days a week. Favorites are the huevos rancheros, trout amandine, buffalo chicken wings, and "The Benny" pizza.

Enjoy our famous Brussel Sprouts, Steamed Pork Buns, Vegan & Veggie Dishes, Steak, Bison, Salmon, Fried Chicken, House Made Pastas or our to-die-for Charcuterie board (best in town!). Views of Snow King. Happy Hour 5-6. Located in Downtown Jackson. www.gatherjh.com

100 WINTER 2024 | JACKSON HOLE

307-733-7662 • noras@noraswilson.com

Breakfast I Lunch I Dinner Happy hour & live music

WWW.TETONTHAIVILLAGE.COM

307 733 0022

WINNER

BEST THAI RESTAURANT

VOTED

BEST TAKE OUT FOOD IN JACKSON

- JH Weekly - JH Weekly

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

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DINING GUIDE

Alpenhof | 307/733-3242 | TETON VILLAGE Swiss cuisine with European wine and beer.

Amangani Grill | 307/734-7333 | JACKSON

Specializing in local, sustainable ranch meats, fresh fish, and seasonal farm-to-table produce, with the finest regional ingredients.

FIGS | 307/733-1200 | JACKSON

Vegetarian and vegan friendly, Mediterranean-inspired small plates/entrees.

Gather JH | 307/264-1820 2 | JACKSON Creative cuisine and mountain views. Famous Brussels sprouts, pork bao buns, elk bolognese.

Nora's Fish Creek Inn | 307/733-7662 | WILSON

A local favorite! 100-year-old log cabin open for breakfast, lunch, dinner; pizza seven days a week.

Palate | 307/201-5208 | NATIONAL MUSEUM OF WILDLIFE ART An artful lunch with a view in Jackson Hole.

Silver Dollar Bar and Grill | 307/732-3939 | JACKSON Breakfast, lunch, dinner, happy hour, and live music.

Snake River Brewing Co. | 307/739-2337 | JACKSON Wyoming’s oldest and America’s most award-winning small craft brewery. Serving up 12 taps of beers and Alpine-inspired dishes.

StillWest Brewery and Grill | 307/201-5955 | JACKSON On-site brewery, extensive wine list, and seasonal menu with mountainside dining on our patio.

Teton Thai | 307/733-0022 | TETON VILLAGE Best of JH: Best Overall Asian Restaurant.

FOUR SEASONS

Westbank Grill | 307/732-5156 | TETON VILLAGE

Enjoy panoramic views of Teton Village and Rendezvous Peak, a dynamic open kitchen, and a cozy setting at our inviting mountain steakhouse.

The Handle Bar | 307/732-5620 | TETON VILLAGE

Grab a seat at our American pub and beer hall, featuring a wide selection of domestic and international beers, whiskeys, and provisions.

Ascent Lounge | 307/732-5613 | TETON VILLAGE

Creative bartenders at our popular slopeside bar, where pan-Asian-inspired plates are best shared either by the wood-burning fireplace or outside on the heated patio.

GRAND TARGHEE

Powder Cache Bar and Grill | 307/353-2300 | GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Full bar with craft cocktails, wine list, and Rocky Mountain Fare.

Trap Bar & Grill | 307/353-2300 | GRAND TARGHEE RESORT A legendary Targhee bar with sports, live music, and our famous WYDAHO Nachos.

Snorkels Café | 307/353-2300 | GRAND TARGHEE RESORT

Grab-and-go café with homemade breakfast, lunch, pastries, and coffee bar.

JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT

Piste Mountain Bistro | 307/732-3177 | TOP OF BRIDGER GONDOLA Enjoy Rocky Mountain cuisine at 9,095 feet. Book on Open Table. Gondola lunch ticket, season pass, or day lift ticket required.

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>> To the >> TCSAR BY THE NUMBERS

1993 YEAR TCSAR WAS FOUNDED

Teton County Search and Rescue personnel prepare to skin into the Coal Creek drainage in April 2020 to look for a snowboarder who had been buried in an avalanche on Taylor Mountain the day before.

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// BY HELEN OLSSON

Rescue Teton County Search & Rescue Prior to 1993, the year Teton County Search and Rescue was founded, distress calls would come into the sheriff’s office, which would dispatch deputies to respond. Maybe they’d rally a few locals with specific skills or gear to help. “They’d muscle out these rescues the best they could with no training and no equipment,“ says Tim Ciocarlan, one of three volunteers from the original TCSAR class (along with Mike Moyer and Mike Estes) who continue to serve. The year 2023 marked TCSAR’s 30th anniversary, and there’s a lot to celebrate, starting with a dedicated year-round rescue helicopter, made possible by the Mission Critical campaign, which raised $7.25 million. A rescue ship can mitigate a 20-mile search on foot and, short-haul rescues—where a SAR member dangling from a rope beneath the helicopter can retrieve a patient quickly—are often livesavers. Since TCSAR’s inception, the rescue profile has evolved. In the early days, the emphasis was on the “search” in search and rescue. Hikers would go missing. Backcountry skiers wouldn’t show for dinner. Cell phones were rare, so rescuers spent hours searching the wilderness with few clues. Thanks in part to updated rescue technologies like satellite phones and SPOT and Garmin In-Reach SOS activations, today’s TCSAR can pinpoint patients quickly. Rescuers use a Recco SAR detector that hangs from the helicopter to detect Recco reflectors below. The helicopter is equipped with an aerial cellular transmitter called Lifeseeker. “It’s like a magic box that allows us to send a patient a text and triangulate their location, even in areas with no service,” Ciocarlan says. Additionally, TCSAR volunteers now log countless hours of rigorous training, from swift-water rescue to predator attack response. High-tech outdoor gear and technology have also allowed outdoor recreationists to travel deeper into the wilderness. As athletes push the boundaries, rescue volunteers often need to travel farther—and into more difficult terrain—to reach patients. The good news: public education efforts like TCSAR Foundation’s Backcountry Zero program as well as avalancheawareness classes are helping to reduce the number of incidents. Ciocarlan says that, historically, most avalanche burial calls ended up being retrieval missions, not rescues. Today, they’re seeing more parties able to perform self-rescues. Backcountry users are getting smarter.

B R A D LY J . B O N E R

The year 2023 marked TCSAR’s 30th anniversary, and there’s a lot to celebrate, starting with a dedicated year-round rescue helicopter, made possible by the Mission Critical campaign, which raised $7.25 million.

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>> will smith MORRIS WEINTRAUB

Dr. Will Smith grew up helping his dad run a 22,000-acre cattle ranch

>> TCSAR BY THE NUMBERS

10,000 AVERAGE TOTAL HOURS TCSAR VOLUNTEERS CONTRIBUTE IN A YEAR

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in southeast Wyoming, honing his outdoor skills at a young age. During high school, he took an EMT class and started caring for patients in the back of the ambulance— because he was too young to drive. While pursuing premed at the University of Wyoming, he moonlighted as a ski patroller at Snowy Range outside Laramie and went on to become a paramedic. As part of his med school and residency, he spent time doing rotations in Jackson. “I fell in love with the area,” says Smith, who returned to Jackson in 2004 to work as a full-time emergency department physician at St. John’s Health. He joined TCSAR that same year. “SAR has been the perfect opportunity to blend medicine, EMS, ambulance, and my outdoor passions,” he says. Smith serves not only as co-medical director with Dr. AJ Wheeler for TCSAR, but also for Grand Teton National Park, Bridger-Teton National Forest, and Jackson Hole Fire/EMS. But there’s more. As a colonel in the U.S. Army Reserves, Smith has had three combat deployments in Iraq, as well as other military medical missions in Croatia, Panama, Egypt, and El Salvador. He spends time in places like Washington, D.C., doing contract work with the Department of State and Homeland Security, consulting on things like tactical EMS for presidential inaugurations. Smith sees parallels between military and wilderness medicine. “While there are different threats and risks— whether you’re being shot at by bullets or caught in an avalanche—the treatment pathways and paradigms are similar,” he says. Smith also runs TCSAR’s drone program. “A lot of my military experience and the decision-making in critical situations really carries over,” he says. Ask Smith about memorable rescues, and he’s got a long list: There were the five days of heli-assisted hiking in the Wind Rivers searching for a lost hiker and a 2010 lightning strike on the Grand Teton when 17 climbers were injured at 13,000 feet. And there was the 61-year-old skier who went into cardiac arrest on Maverick Peak in Grand Teton National Park. “We short-hauled in, used the AED, and started CPR,” he says. “Within 10 minutes, he was alert and awake.”

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B R A D LY J . B O N E R

Assisted by TCSAR volunteer Mike Estes, Smith flies a drone to the site of an avalanche on Taylor Mountain to search for signs of someone caught in it.

>> tim ciocarlan As a teenager in the 1970s, Tim Ciocarlan took a ski trip with friends to Jackson and was instantly smitten with the place. Despite being a novice, he rode the chairlift to the top of Targhee on a four-foot powder day. “I fell off at the top, but I made it down. That was the beginning,” he says. To pay the bills, Ciocarlan worked in construction, eventually founding his own construction management company. In the fall of 1992, he saw an ad in the paper that caught his eye. The sheriff’s department was starting the county’s first-ever official searchand-rescue team. “It was a point in my life that I needed diversion. So I applied,” Ciocarlan says. TCSAR has come a long way in the last three decades. “Back then, people didn’t have personal locator beacons, GPS devices, or cell phones,” he says. Calls for help often came in when a partner hiked miles out of the backcountry to find a pay phone. “Almost every rescue, we’d spend hours searching on foot,” he says. Missions sometimes stretched to 17 hours or more. When TCSAR gets a call today, incident command usually has the coordinates of the patient locked in at the get-go. Of the myriad rescues that Ciocarlan has been a part of, one that stands out is the 2022 search for Gabby Petito, who was killed by her fiancé in Wyoming’s backcountry. “I treat rescues more or less like business, but, frankly, that one made me cry,” he says. Will Ciocarlan ever retire? He dodges that question. “When you join up, it’s this amazing group of friends. I don’t think we’re superheroes,” he says. “We’re just ordinary people doing an extraordinary job. And when we get to save the life of somebody’s loved one, that’s pretty special.”

>> TCSAR BY THE NUMBERS

39 MORRIS WEINTRAUB

VOLUNTEERS ON THE TCSAR TEAM

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Valdez, Alaska; commercial fisher in southeast Alaska; Jackson Hole ski instructor and patroller. Today, her paying gigs include guiding in Jackson Hole’s backcountry in winter and on the resort’s via ferrata in summer. One summer on the water in Alaska, she found herself coming to the aid of a man with severe lacerations. She sewed up his arm using a simple needle and thread sewing kit—the kind for sewing buttons onto shirts. “I’d taken advanced first aid in college, so I wasn’t totally clueless, but I didn’t think I should be sewing anybody up,” she says. As a heli-ski guide, she’d had to rescue a client who was swept into a bergschrund by an avalanche. “I’d been seeing a lot of accidents, and I wanted to be more prepared. I wanted to up my personal game.” In Jackson, Viau got certified as an EMT, taking an intensive month-long course through the Wilderness Medicine Institute. After volunteering with what was then called Jackson Hole EMS (it’s now Jackson Hole Fire/EMS) for a year, she saw an ad for TCSAR in the paper and decided to apply. She joined the team in 2000 and has been volunteering ever since. Viau is on TCSAR’s short-haul team. Flying through the air in winter, often a thousand feet above the ground, can be a cold, windy trip. But the most dramatic moment is takeoff. “The rotors are spinning. It’s noisy. The snow’s flying. That’s when the adrenaline gets pumping,” she says. “Once you’re in the air, it’s all on the pilot. You reach a point where flying underneath a helicopter is like getting into a car. You’re just used to it,” she says. “The trick is not to get complacent.”

TCSAR BY THE NUMBERS

2 FULL-TIME SALARIED TCSAR EMPLOYEES

MORRIS WEINTRAUB

Carol Viau’s resume is hardcore: Heli-ski guide in

>> carol viau

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>> Phillip fox

It seems fitting that a Boy Scout would end up on a SAR squad.

Phillip Fox grew up climbing, mountain biking, and white-water rafting in Tennessee. In college, he worked as a white-water guide for Nantahala Outdoor Center. An opportunity to work at the 2002 Olympics in Park City, Utah, sent him westward, and he eventually moved to Jackson to guide white-water trips in summer and to work in food and beverage at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort in winter. “Like many people, I was planning on spending a year in Jackson,” Fox says. “Twenty-two years later, I’m still here.” Fox’s day job now is director of supply chain at St. John’s Health. He put down stakes in Teton Valley, Idaho, and signed on with Teton County, Idaho, SAR in 2005. He worked for TCISAR for a decade, during which time he often collaborated on rescues with the TCSAR folks. In 2015, Fox joined TCSAR, and from his Idaho home base—where he lives with his wife, Kristen, and his golden retriever, Dixie—he’s able to respond quickly to rescue calls in Darby Canyon, which is in Teton County, Wyoming, but only accessible with vehicles via Teton County, Idaho. A member of the short-haul team, he was recently certified as a spotter (the brave soul who leans precariously out the open door of the helicopter). On Fox’s first short-haul rescue, he was tapped to transport an IFMGA-certified mountain guide who’d fallen 100 feet while trying a new winter climbing route on a sharp crag off Teton Pass called The Reef. Fortunately, a couple of snowmobilers happened by. However, by the time TCSAR got the call, it was getting late, and the helicopter wasn’t certified to fly at night. “We didn’t have much time, so I had to quickly package the patient into a Bauman Bag, which is like a vacuum splint with a giant harness system,” he says. With the heli hovering above, Fox and the patient unclipped on Highway 22, which had been shut down to traffic. “We were able to meet the ambulance right there,” says Fox. It made for a Hollywood ending.

>> TCSAR BY THE NUMBERS

CALLS TCSAR RESPONDED TO IN 2022

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MORRIS WEINTRAUB

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>> Ashley Didion

When Ashley Didion was six, she made a pronouncement: She would be a doctor, marry a vet, have six kids, and live in Jackson Hole. “One of those things came true,” Didion says. In 2016, she moved to Jackson with her husband, Drew, to work as a labor and delivery nurse at St. John’s Hospital. Didion was on a pre-med track at Mount Holyoke College, where she worked as an oncampus EMT to test the waters of medicine. “It was mostly intoxication—people in high heels falling down at dances,” she says. Through the experience, she discovered the people who were really engaging hands-on with patients were the nurses. “When I moved here, I was looking for a volunteer service to be more of a part of the community,” she says. She joined TCSAR in 2021 and recently joined the short-haul team. Given the amount of pain Didion sees in the labor and delivery room, she’s particularly able to cope with trauma in the backcountry. “I’m used to people expressing a lot of pain,” she says. “I’m very comfortable with other people being uncomfortable.” The difference is that the pain of childbirth has a purpose. “It’s achieving something. In the wilderness, the pain is telling me something’s wrong.” For Didion, one of the most surprising facets of a rescue is the parties in peril. “When we show up, the kindness and generosity people feel is remarkable,” she says. And while both patients and rescuers are going through a trauma, Didion points to the TCSAR’s positive and open culture. “It’s a really safe environment for psychological processing. We call it ‘psychological first aid.’”

>> TCSAR BY THE NUMBERS

1,200+ MORRIS WEINTRAUB

PEOPLE WHO DONATED TO THE MISSION CRITICAL CAMPAIGN TO PURCHASE A YEAR-ROUND, RESCUE HELICOPTER FOR TETON COUNTY

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>> rob sgroi

In a classic moment of irony, Robb Sgroi found himself in need of rescue

MORRIS WEINTRAUB

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in the midst of a winter SAR training in 2020. The team was skinning up Snow King resort to build snow caves when he started feeling shortness of breath, GI upset, tunnel vision, and urticaria (hives). He was, in fact, suffering from a condition called exercised-induced anaphylaxis. “My teammates recognized my symptoms and gave me epinephrine. They literally saved my life,” he says. “I can empathize with our patients more strongly now, having been in their shoes.” Sgroi is a self-professed “native of Massachusetts suburbia” who grew up hiking, backpacking, and skiing in the Northeast. “I feel like I connect with people more strongly in an outdoor setting,” he says. Sgroi took an EMT class in college and, migrating westward, briefly worked as an X-ray tech assistant at Colorado’s Keystone Resort. He went on to pursue a career in natural resource management, moving to Jackson to work for Bridger-Teton National Forest and then the Teton Conservation District. He joined TCSAR in 2004. Sgroi says his wife, Krista, who is a nurse practitioner in orthopedics, is incredibly supportive. “The contributions and sacrifices of the family members of SAR members, I think, are equal to those of the actual team members. SAR work is just so unpredictable,” he says. For Sgroi, who’s also on TCSAR’s short-haul team, the most memorable rescues involve caves. “I remember getting called to a cave rescue when my wife and I were hosting our engagement party,” he says. “She said, ‘Just go.’” In Darby Canyon, there’s a cave system with waist-high water, ice chambers, and an aptly named labyrinth called The Maze. With limited communication underground, the team often goes in not knowing what they might encounter. “Caves are a setting where SAR needs to employ problem-solving. Maybe it’s building anchors to lower a patient down,” Sgroi says. “We’ve had people spending 30-plus hours in there.” When the team emerges back into the sunshine after a rescue? “That’s a welcome thing.” JH

TCSAR BY THE NUMBERS

70 PERCENTAGE OF WINTER INCIDENTS THAT INVOLVE MALE PATIENTS (10-YEAR AVERAGE)

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Hungry Jack’s

NOW Hungry Jack's has been a gathering spot for the community of Wilson since 1960. In early 2023, more than 600 members of the community came together to buy it.

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// BY BEVIN WALLACE

& THEN HOW COMMUNITY UNITY AND LOCAL SUPPORT HELPED BREATHE NEW LIFE IN WILSON’S BELOVED GENERAL STORE.

B R A D LY J . B O N E R

n 1954, Clarence “Stearnie” Stearns and his wife, Dorothy “Dodie,” who had met while working in Yellowstone in the 1940s, bought a small grocery store in Wilson. At that time, Wilson was a blink-and-you’ll-missit town at the base of Teton Pass. In 1960, the couple bought the property across the road, hired a builder from Idaho Falls, and six weeks later, opened Hungry Jack’s general store. “It was just like you’d imagine,” says longtime Wilson resident Biz Doyle. “They sold everything from Carhartts to canoes to gallons of milk to greeting cards to steak from the Snake River Ranch.” In 1989 Dodie and Stearnie were ready to retire, so they sold the store to the youngest of their four children, Jana. Over the years, Hungry Jack’s became a community gathering place. “It had a lot of traditions with it, and the Stearns family were kind of the unofficial mayors of Wilson,” says Doyle. “Stearnie used to sit at this big desk in the center of the store, and it just kind of was his perch

where he could command the whole community. It was known without even being said that on the first and last day of school, everyone went to Hungry Jack’s for ice cream. All the kids of Wilson School would flood in there, and Jana would have the ice cream cooler open.” All this—along with the ability of Wilsonites to buy milk without having to drive into Jackson—was in danger of being lost last year when Jana started thinking about retirement. Doyle heard the store was going to be sold and immediately called her neighbor and friend Marc Hirschfield: “I said, ‘This is so sad; we’re gonna lose Hungry Jack’s.’ And he said, ‘Well, we gotta buy it.’ And I said, ‘Well, I don’t have 7.5 million dollars.’” Wilson is “an independent little town with its own post office,” according to Doyle, yet it’s also home to some of the priciest mountain town real estate in the country, according to The Wall Street Journal. The sale of Hungry Jack’s could have easily gone to an out-of-town condo

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W. G A R T H D OWL I N G

Hungry Jack's co-founder Clarence "Stearnie" Stearns at the store in 1997.

“It was not a fundraising campaign per se. It was good old-fashioned grassroots spread the word, call your neighbor, and think about what this town would look like without Hungry Jack’s." ––BIZ DOYLE

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developer or a large retail chain with extra-deep pockets. Hirschfield’s first reaction was that it needed to be a co-op, but he soon realized that a co-op, which is often a nonprofit, was not the right model for such a valuable business. Hirschfield’s wife, Anise Morrow, did some research, and they landed on the idea of a community-owned business. A COB is an organization owned and operated by a group of people who come together with a common goal, which, unlike traditional corporations, is usually not solely profit, but rather to serve the interests of the local community. The modern equivalent of an old-fashioned barn raising, community-owned businesses solicit neighbors to open their wallets instead of lifting timbers. Members buy in, and they have ownership of both the real estate and the business. “What we found out about community-owned businesses is they kind of really started up in the 1970s and then they went a little defunct. But they were revived during

the pandemic when certain communities were losing these very valuable businesses because they couldn’t afford to stay open,” Doyle says. “We had a couple of community meetings at the old Wilson schoolhouse, and people were very enthusiastic for the project,” says Hirschfield. “We didn’t do any calls,” adds Doyle. “It was not a fundraising campaign per se. It was good old-fashioned grassroots spread the word, call your neighbor, and think about what this town would look like without Hungry Jack’s. At our first meeting, there were over 200 people. They came in, and we were like, ‘Oh boy, we’re gonna need some more chairs.’” Enthusiasm is one thing, but actually taking people’s money is another. “It was very touch and go, and there was a moment there when we easily could have lost it if we hadn’t raised the money,” says Hirschfield, a former restauranteur who has lived in Wilson since 1994 and who, with his wife, personally put down the non-refundable earnest

B R A D LY J . B O N E R

Marc Hirschfield, right, with Hungry Jack's general manager Steve Fralin at the newly remodled Wilson grocery store. Fralin managed the shop for about seven years under the previous ownership and stayed with the grocery after its transtion.

money for Hungry Jack’s. He credits Morrow for her optimism and faith in the project. “She said, ‘Just get it under contract and we’ll figure it out.’” In the end, realizing that independent stores are invaluable to the long-term health and character of the local community, the town of Wilson came together and “saved” Hungry Jack’s. “With a lot of faith and belief, we got it under contract,” Hirschfield says. Hirschfield, Morrow, Doyle, and several others formed the Hungry Jack’s Company with the goal of preserving the store’s legacy while serving the local community with an emphasis on providing staples and goods at reasonable prices. The company’s mission statement says, “While Hungry Jack’s Company seeks to make a profit, it puts community interests first and financial returns second.” Over 600 individuals purchased the 320 shares that were offered at $25,000 each. “Some people bought 10, most people bought one. A lot of people pulled together,” says Doyle.

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done, getting the building done, in a climate where it can be really challenging, it all went relatively smoothly,” Hirschfield says. “And it’s been extraordinarily well received. With no fanfare, we just turned the sign to ‘open’ and people started streaming in.”

In May 1995, Wilson residents gathered for a community photo outside Hungry Jack's to celebrate the centennial of the first legal settlement in the hamlet on April 25, 1895.

“We’re keeping the vibe of a country store where you can kind of get anything, but you can also do your full shop. And the prices are reasonable.” ––MARC HIRSCHFIELD

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fter the deal was signed on January 18, 2023, Jana Stearns stayed on as manager through the end of the ski season, when the store closed its doors for remodeling. “We had an amazing contractor, Dembergh, with an incredible team as well as subcontractors who have all been great and accommodating,” Hirschfield says. (The contractor and the plumber are also members of the Hungry Jack’s Company.) “We felt it was very important to update it but also maintain the character and not make it feel too fancy.” Morrow and designer Jessica Travis refurbished the store’s original red oak flooring as well as a concrete floor they found below a layer of old vinyl. “We took all the old shelves that Stearnie had built back in the day and sanded them and refinished them. We did some electrical and plumbing work, but we didn’t do that much,” Hirschfield says. They kept the iconic red metal roof, as well as the hand-painted “Welcome Pardner” sign above the front door. “It was very important to us to maintain the history of the store—because everyone feels an attachment to the store,” Hirschfield says. The new Hungry Jack’s opened on September 2, 2023. “In terms of getting a complicated deal

JIM EVANS

ungry Jack’s is now more of a local grocer than an oldtimey general store. “Back in the day, you could buy waders and tomatoes and fishing gear, but over time it’s become more of a general store-slash-grocery store serving the community. Jackson has become very busy, and it’s nice to have a place in Wilson,” Hirschfield says. “We have a great product mix. We have inexpensive things like Spam and American cheese and Jimmy Dean sausage, but we also have great olive oil from Sicily. We have Liberty Puzzles, and we also have ponchos for camping,” Hirschfield says. “We’re keeping the vibe of a country store where you can kind of get anything, but you can also do your full shop. And the prices are reasonable.” Gone are the Carhartt clothing and Sorel boots. (“It was great that you could go to Hungry Jack’s and buy Sorel boots,” says Doyle, “But I’ve lived here 30 years and I have bought one pair of Sorel boots. You just don’t wear them out. It didn’t make sense for us to continue to stock all the sizes.”) But you can still find greeting cards from local artists, coffee table books, enamel cookware, and first aid supplies. The newly openedup space feels very different from the old store’s mazelike jumble of shelves and implements hanging from the ceiling, and it allows shoppers to more easily find products among the expanded selection of fresh produce, meats, dairy, and specialty foods, including many locally sourced products. Some of the brands, farms, and businesses Hungry Jack’s supports include Huidekoper Ranch farm and Canewater Farm organic produce,

Lockhart Ranch beef, Double Diamond Ranch lamb, Morning Dew gourmet mushrooms, Wild Flour bakery, Cattle Kate scarves, Jackson Hole Book Trader, Vertical Harvest, Wonderful Wyoming Honey, Squire Farms local gifts and cheeses, Roots potato chips, Mary’s Chickens free-range poultry, Alaska Gold line-caught seafood, Rainbow Sandals, Haflinger USA slippers, Lodge Cast Iron cookware, Becky Watson artisanal wood creations, MiiR water bottles, CiCi’s handmade Italian cookies, and Tutto Calabria Italian imports. The new company has kept on the previous store manager, Steve Fralin, who, in addition to running the store day-to-day, has been able to provide continuity as well as guidance on vendors and what have historically been popular products. And yes, there is still an ice cream case.

ow that the store is up and running, the next phase is a planned commercial kitchen, which will put out a selection of soups, graband-go sandwiches, salads, and baked goods. “Hungry Jack’s has been here for almost 70 years, and we’re trying to create a template for the next 70 years,” says Hirschfield. “We wanted to give the store the new electric, the plumbing, the good refrigeration, a great little commercial kitchen, great space, and great light to become whatever it can become. We’ll always be some sort of grocery store and general store, but there’ll be new people with new talents who are on the board and working here, and we want the store to have the ability to grow and change over time, because it’s community-owned.” According to Jana Stearns, her parents had a deep love for their community. “They wanted to keep Wilson Wilson!” she said in her speech at the Hungry Jack’s community meeting. That spirit of community and sense of place lives on in the store’s spruced-up new iteration, which is a tribute to the people who came together to preserve this local fixture. “In Jackson Hole, there are so many talented people,” says Hirschfield. “If you let those people contribute, it can create something beautiful.” JH JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

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WILD, AGAIN // BY MIKE KOSHMRL

B R A D LY J . B O N E R

raffic slows, then eases to a standstill past where the Buffalo Fork of the Snake River gives way to a sweep of grassy pastureland. Off to the west, the sawtooth of the Tetons. The eastern skyline is cut by triangular Mount Leidy rising above a rolling sea of conifer forest. But the scenic vistas play second fiddle to the center and cause of the congestion on U.S. 191/26. It’s a heap of bison. A herd grazes the flats where the old Elk Ranch ran cattle in the early 1900s. And the tourists passing by, many of whom have never seen North America’s largest mammal in the wild, are struck with awe by the bevy of wooly, lumbering animals. With cameras and smartphones in hand—to capture memories of a species that was infamously eradicated from virtually all of its range—they scamper across the highway. This is a scenario that plays out in Grand Teton National Park on repeat every summer. But it wasn’t always the case. In Jackson Hole, too, bison were eliminated— absent from the landscape for an entire century. Today, there’s a free-ranging herd—a noted conservation success—that is understandably overshadowed by the story of bison in Yellowstone National Park, where the species was famously brought back from the brink of extinction in the early 1900s at the Lamar Buffalo Ranch. Still, Jackson Hole residents like senior National Elk Refuge biologist Eric Cole are well aware that the Animals that escaped from their 500 or so bison that call the valley home are an extraordinary resource for the ecosystem and community. outdoors exhibit more than a “The Jackson bison herd has gotten very little attention half century ago led to the modern given its relative importance,” Cole says. “I definitely apday Jackson bison herd—Wyoming’s preciate having them on the landscape because it’s such a rarity in North America.” only herd of wild bison outside of The return of Bison bison bison to Jackson Hole came Yellowstone National Park. about because of a historic getaway. Imported from Yellowstone in the 1940s to endure captive lives in a fenced

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B R A D LY J . B O N E R

Bison graze on Antelope Flats in Grand Teton National Park.

In the past, Wyoming Game and Fish Department employees used snowmobiles (just out of the picture) to haze bison away from private property near Triangle X Ranch in Grand Teton National Park.

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK

Visitors to Grand Teton National Park in 1958 view bison and elk near Oxbow Bend in the former Jackson Hole Wildlife Park enclosure.

“The Jackson bison herd has gotten very little attention given its relative importance. I definitely appreciate having them on the landscape because it’s such a rarity in North America.” ERIC COLE, NATIONAL ELK REFUGE BIOLOGIST

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pen, Jackson Hole’s bison escaped, survived, proliferated, and went on to become one of only herds of wild bison allowed to exist on a Western landscape that’s now dominated by another bovid: domestic cattle. The bison grazing today to the delight of tourists at Elk Ranch Flats descend from animals that were essentially props. At the time, Wyoming Governor Lester Hunt was dissatisfied that sometimes the only animals tourists would see on their drives through Jackson Hole were cattle. Grand Teton National Park was much smaller then—confined mostly to the Tetons themselves—and Hunt convinced Laurance Rockefeller to finance a wildlife exhibit near the Snake River’s Oxbow Bend for bison, elk, antelope, moose, and deer. But the enclosure, dubbed the Jackson Hole Wildlife Park, quickly failed, partly because of a lack of cooperation from its animal occupants, wrote historian and Grand Teton National Park scholar Robert Righter. “Like in a prison, many of the ‘inmates’ preferred freedom,” Righter wrote in an essay about the park published by the Jackson Hole News&Guide in 2018. “The fences caused considerable frustration for man and beast. Depending on the design, elk and deer jumped over the fence, pronghorn went under the fence, and buffalo, when provoked, went through the fence.” Bison would escape “several times annually,” according to a 1996 interagency management plan for the Jackson bison herd. They’d get rounded up and returned. When Grand Teton National Park expanded its boundaries in 1950, the National Park Service reluctantly inherited the wildlife park. Righter lik-

R YA N D O R G A N

ened the failed exhibit to an “unwanted stepchild.” By 1969, park officials stopped attempting to round up the escapees. Jackson Hole, for the first time in nearly a century, became the domain of free-ranging bison (with the exception of when three Yellowstone bison wandered south into Jackson Hole in 1945). In the early years, free roaming the valley, the herd stayed very small, averaging just a dozen or so animals. That began to change in 1975, when bison discovered where to go for a winter’s worth of free meals. “Once these bison found the National Elk Refuge, the population really started to reproduce at a high level,” says Doug Brimeyer, who arrived in Jackson Hole in the 1990s for a Wyoming Game and Fish bi-

ologist gig. “We saw that growth trajectory really change.” Eventually, dozens became hundreds and then a thousand-plus bison. Around that time, the Wyoming Game and Fish Commission created bison regulations and classified the species as wildlife so long as they were not privately owned and did dwell within a defined area that now includes Teton, Lincoln, and Sublette Counties. Elsewhere in Wyoming, with the exception of the unoccupied Absaroka herd unit east of Yellowstone, bison aren’t classified as wildlife, but “privately owned or bison running at large.” (See sidebar, “A Political Animal,” p. 128) At first, recreational hunting was not an especially effective tool for keeping Jackson herd numbers in check, Brimeyer

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A PUSH FOR WILD BISON ON THE WIND RIVER INDIAN RESERVATION

Eastern Shoshone Tribal member Jason Baldes has two major goals for bison conservation on the Wind River Indian Reservation, which he calls home: One, Baldes wants to bring back the buffalo—an effort that’s been slowly underway since 2016. Second, he wants to see those bison be declared as a wildlife species under the tribal game code. “It’s a paradigm shift, recognizing buffalo as a wildlife species and allowing them to exist on the landscape,” says Baldes, who leads the tribal buffalo program for the National Wildlife Federation.

Cattle ranching Wind River tribal members haven’t met Baldes’s bison-restoration ambitions with open arms. “The tribal ranchers are concerned about buffalo because they think we’re taking all of the range units out from cattle production,” he says. “The idea isn’t to run anybody out of business or take their livelihood, but to reassess the history and reprioritize in a more holistic way. What is most beneficial for our tribal communities? The cattle, they benefit the individual. These buffalo, they benefit everybody.” Although it’s come slowly, there has been progress. Baldes is raising funds, buying lands to graze and grow the Wind River herd, and lobbying his people to reembrace the buffalo.

B R A D LY J . B O N E R

Even on the Wind River Indian Reservation—a wild landscape the size of Yellowstone National Park—cattle are still considered king. “Like other places in the West, cattle were prioritized when reservations were opened up for homesteading,” Baldes says. “Colonization and assimilation was always the goal, and a real result of that is that cattle were prioritized on an Indian reservation.” That’s the case even though the Shoshone were

buffalo people. They called themselves the Guchundeka, the “buffalo eaters.” “But we haven’t been able to eat buffalo for 140 years,” Baldes says. “There’s a hope that one day we can feed young people [buffalo] in our school lunch program.”

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B R A D LY J . B O N E R

Ryker Case, 5, and his brother, Jacob, 7, investigate the bull bison shot by their father, Ryan, of Evanston on the opening day of the bison hunt on the National Elk Refuge in September 2007. Case's bison was the first harvest of the first hunt on the refuge since 1998.

says. It was partly because the Fund for Animals sued, successfully keeping bison hunting off the National Elk Refuge from 1998 to 2006. “Bison are extremely sensitive to hunting pressure,” says Brimeyer, now the deputy chief of wildlife for all of Wyoming Game and Fish. “They figured out pretty quickly, between 1998 and 2006, that the refuge was the place to go.” But in 2007, the no-hunting sanctuary went away. Grand Teton National Park and the National Elk Refuge com-

pleted a new management plan, with a goal to trim bison numbers from 1,200 down to 500 animals. This lifted the court-ordered hunting prohibition on the refuge. For a time, the higher bison numbers complicated wildlife management in Jackson Hole. At up to 2,000 pounds, infamously testy at times, and at the top of the wildlife hierarchy, bison aren’t always easy to live with. Even though Teton County is 97 percent federal land, bison and other wildlife are often drawn to the

lowest-elevation areas, which tend to be privately owned. Bison were notorious fence breakers, Brimeyer says, and destructive when they got into subdivisions. They’ve been hazed from places like Jackson Hole Golf and Tennis and away from ranchers’ haylines, where they’d gained a reputation for goring horses. Once, Grand Teton National Park closed down the highway in the dead of winter so snowmobile-mounted wardens and biologists could herd snowbound bison down the plowed roadway south toward the refuge and away from ranchland. Throughout the 2010s, the Jackson bison herd was hunted down hard— and it wasn’t always pretty. Word often spread when a group crossed the Gros Ventre River from GTNP and onto the National Elk Refuge where they were fair game, and it could be a shooting gallery. Even if it was tough to watch, the tactic worked: numbers dropped

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A POLITICAL In 2016, the American bison was declared the national mammal of the United States. A century and a half earlier, however, white settlers homesteading the same nation drove bison to the brink of extinction by slaughtering the shaggy brown beasts by the millions. “When the plains bison was represented by 50, 60, 70 million animals, it was the greatest assemblage of mammalian biomass the world had ever produced,” says Mike Phillips, director of the Turner Endangered Species Fund. “Think about that for a moment. We took the greatest assemblage of a terrestrial mammal in all of creation and, in a few short decades, drove it nearly extinct.”

B R A D LY J . B O N E R

While the United States’ other wildlife emblem, the bald eagle, recovered from its own flirtation with extinction, bison have never recovered to become commonplace and widespread in the wild. Although there are approximately a half-

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ANIMAL

million bison that exist on the planet today, the vast majority are fenced bisoncattle hybrids commercially raised for meat. The International Union for Conservation of Nature considers only 20 bison herds to be large and free-ranging enough to be “primarily subjected to the forces of natural selection.” By this standard, there are less than 19,000 wild bison alive today—a tiny fraction of a percent of what was. The largest of these herds lives in the same landscape where the species staged a comeback: Yellowstone National Park. In the midst of a planning process for Yellowstone’s 6,000-animal bison herd, the National Park Service is examining three options: 1) a status quo approach to managing bison; 2) an option that would allow for a larger population that would prioritize tribal hunting; 3) managing bison like any other wildlife.

It’s likely that whatever Yellowstone does, the park will get hammered by criticism from both sides. The state of Montana and the state’s livestock lobby, fearing the spread of brucellosis, a transmissible disease that causes bovids to abort their first calf, has consistently opposed giving bison the right to roam outside of Yellowstone. Meanwhile, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service is in the process of determining whether bison in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem ought to be protected under the Endangered Species Act. A decision on whether that will occur was overdue when Jackson Hole magazine went to press, but the federal agency has already signaled that “substantial scientific information” indicating that listing the Yellowstone bison under the ESA “may be warranted.”

Bison near the Madison River in Yellowstone National Park.

B R A D LY J . B O N E R

Bison roam across a ridgetop in Grand Teton National Park with Sheep Mountain dominating the skyline.

steadily toward 500. Once tag numbers dropped, the hunts became less ugly. Brimeyer, who once hunted a Jackson Hole bison, reported his own experience was “very ideal” and that the animals he pursued were wary. Today, the Jackson bison herd has reached some sort of equilibrium. Numbers have stagnated slightly below the 500 animal objective for the past five years. Conflicts with golf courses and on private ranches are less frequent. “Having a lower number of bison in the population has certainly helped us out,” Brimeyer says. Still, it’s not the ideal of a wild bison herd in the eyes of everybody. As it functions today, just about every bison in the Jackson herd survives the winter lapping up alfalfa pellets on the National Elk Refuge, which is fenced on two sides. The spread of diseases is one knock against feeding, but opponents have rallied against the anachronistic wildlife-management tactic for a host of additional reasons for decades.

“It’s just an artificial attempt to sustain populations that don’t meet the definition of wild,” says Darrell Geist, a habitat coordinator and longtime activist for the Buffalo Field Campaign, based in West Yellowstone, Montana. In Geist’s view, Jackson Hole’s isolated wild bison population is “seriously deficient” and could be genetically challenged in the long run. Yet, it’s plausible to think that the Jackson bison herd will shrink even more in the foreseeable future. The reason is that the National Elk Refuge is redoing its management plan, and feeding could be scaled back or altogether phased out. That outcome is still speculative, but it’s entirely possible, and it’s a scenario that would change the bison-management equation significantly. “The supplemental feeding program has mitigated a lot of the potential problems from having bison,” says Cole, the National Elk Refuge biologist. “If supplemental feeding is scaled back, we’ll be in uncharted waters in terms of the potential for bison to move to areas they haven’t in the past.” In winter, that could mean bison by Jackson Hole Airport—or in somebody’s backyard. Geist’s hope is that federal and state wildlife managers take the long view and plan smartly to chart the next chapter of the Jackson bison herd. “We need to figure out a way to restore habitat and, probably more importantly, restore connectivity between populations,” he says. “Start acquiring habitat for those bison. If you really want them to have a viable future, they’re going to need more habitat and range.” JH

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PHOTO ESSAY

Winter Wonderland Photographer Taylor Glenn ski-toured across Yellowstone’s southeastern corner.

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1. We started out with a leisurely morning taking photos and gawking at the beauty around us. Assuming we would cruise our way up and over the Continental Divide, we took our time and enjoyed the moment. A mileage post on the trail reminded us of how far we had to go, 27.6 miles. We thought it'd be a piece of cake. Soon after, we began to realize just how wrong this assumption was.

itting in the snow on the bank of the Bechler River, I struggle to dry my feet and wriggle my ski boots back on. Groaning in frustration, my adventure partner Taylor Phillips, “TP,” fights with me for elbow room as he pulls on his wool socks. Minutes earlier we came to an impassable spot on the south side of the canyon that forced us to take off our skis, boots, and socks and ford the river. Barefoot on our snowy, awkward perch, we look at each other and burst into laughter; it’s a moment of clarity and pure joy, and we both know we will never forget this moment. Between December and March, Yellowstone National Park gets only a fraction of the visitors (159,219 people this past winter) that it does between June and August (2.677 million in 2023). Nestled in the park’s southwest corner, the Bechler region is one of its most remote and least-visited areas. In summer, the Bechler Ranger Station is a 23 mile drive—about 10 miles of which are on dirt—from Ashton, Idaho. In winter, the only way to get to the ranger station, which was built by the U.S. Army as a guard station in 1911, four years before the National Park Service was established, is by snowmobile. Or, if you’re looking for a big adventure, skis. One summer I had hiked the park’s Bechler River Trail to Mr. Bubbles, a thermal feature in the Ferris Fork Geyser Basin almost equidistant from Old Faithful (about 15 miles to the east) and the Bechler Ranger Station (about 15 miles to the west). I only recall small bits of that trip, but Mr. Bubbles is hard to forget; the pool gets its name from an air vent in the center that constantly bubbles air. TP was immediately sold on my idea for a 32-mile six-day ski tour from Old Faithful to the Bechler Ranger Station. We’d haul 80-pound sleds and camp each night in Yellowstone’s snow-covered backcounty as temperatures dipped well below zero. At that time, I had never visited any part of Yellowstone in the winter—not even so much as a cross-country ski around Old Faithful Village. My thinking was that if I was finally going to experience Yellowstone in winter, then I wanted to really experience it in winter! We departed the Lone Star Geyser Trailhead near Old Faithful one day in February. Although we arrived at the Bechler Ranger Station as planned, most of the trip did not go as planned; we underestimated how difficult it would be. Still, it was a magical experience and stands as one of the greatest adventures I have ever done. LEFT: A bison forages in a meadow where the snow is shallow near thermal features in the Lone Star Geyser area. These guys have it tough in the winter. They use their broad heads to brush snow away from the ground and munch on what little grass and nutrients they can find.

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2. Skiing past Lone Star Geyser, the groomed trail ends and the real work begins. JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

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PHOTO ESSAY

3. It wasn’t always a slog through untracked, deep snow. In some of the thermal zones the snow was relatively shallow, and there were even spots with bare ground.

4. After four miles of skiing, we were totally spent and the the sun was setting. We made camp and, over dinner, talked about the fact we were in for a much more difficult journey than we had anticipated. Looking back on our leisurely morning, we decided it would be predawn wakeups from now on.

5 5. Yes, I brought my tripod. It was heavy, but at least I was able to make this photo on our first night out, when it was a crisp -20F.

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6. My ski partner, Taylor Phillips, is owner and lead guide of Jackson Hole EcoTour Adventures. The beauty of traveling in the mountains with a naturalist is that you get to learn about things you would otherwise walk right by. With TP in the lead, he noticed this indentation in the snow, which turned out to be where a dusky grouse had burrowed for the night. You could see where it landed, then tunneled through the snow, and, once morning came, exploded out and left wing patterns in the fresh powder. There are so many wonderful things to see if you pay attention.

7. Just prior to our departure, the Tetons got almost two feet of snow over 36 hours. We couldn't measure, but Yellowstone's backcountry likely got more. Climbing up to Grant’s Pass, the deep powder pulled at our sleds, causing them to submarine into the snow.

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PHOTO ESSAY

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8. Skiing out along the Ferris Fork to Three River Junction.

9. Mr. Bubbles is on the Ferris Fork River. It is illegal to enter hot springs in Yellowstone, but there are a few features it is legal to soak in, like Mr. Bubbles, because they are part of flowing water. Mr. Bubbles is in the Ferris Fork River, where hot water flows into it from a spring (seen on the right in this photo). We were so fortunate to experience Mr. Bubbles in winter; it was worth every bit of effort to be there.

11. To cross the Bechler River here, we found a low spot in the snowy bank with a small gravel bar in the water. We stomped out a spot to prep for the crossing, piled all of our gear onto this makeshift platform, and then took off our boots and waded over to the far side. There, we shoveled out a landing. After several trips ferrying our gear, we got everything back in order and continued toward the north side of the canyon.

10. Our first of multiple river crossings was thermal warm, but that wasn't the case in later crossings.

12 12. We intended to be at the Bechler Ranger Station the night before we made it for real. The plan was to camp there before our originally scheduled 10 a.m. pickup. Getting there seven hours late, we were just happy to have made it with a bit of daylight left. JH JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

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// BY DINA MISHEV AND BRIGID MANDER

CONNOR BURKESMITH

LITTLERIPPERS

Kids that grow up skiing Jackson Hole are a different breed of mountain athlete.

Nate Pruzan at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort.

hen he was five years old, Nate Pruzan, now 16, and his friend Matty Wilson skipped out on one of their regular group lessons at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s Kids Ranch. They didn’t ditch to play video games or build a snow fort, but to ski tram laps. The duo made it as far as the tram dock—carrying their ski gear and successfully navigating the maze of the tram line, which both had done previously with their parents—before their plan was foiled by a sharp-eyed ski patroller who noticed the two unaccompanied preschoolers and had them returned to Kids Ranch. It’s not surprising then, that, later that winter, Nate asked his dad, Aaron Pruzan, who, along with his wife, Tamsen, is an expert skier, if he could ski Corbet’s Couloir, a line at JHMR that is vertical at the start and only gets slightly less steep once you’ve dropped in. With a couple of years of lessons and count-

GROM [GHROM] NOUN, PLURAL: GROMS

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less ski days with mom, dad, and his older brother already under his boots, Nate seemed ready. Dad skied into Corbet’s first. Nate followed and skied it better than most adults. Four years later, when Nate was nine, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort made a short film about him and his dad: Corbet’s Couloir— Father and Son. When Nate was five, his dad was the stronger skier, but by the time this movie was made, father and son skied at the same speed. “Or maybe he [was] a little faster,” Aaron says. “He certainly wanted to jump off more things than I did. [Seeing my son surpass me] was fun. I knew it was going to happen. I just didn’t know that it was going to be so fast. Kids that grow up skiing in Jackson, they have this amazing mountain, which is this massive terrain park, to ski and experience, and it’s nice having all of those opportunities and being such a complete skier.”

Shortened from the word grommet, a grom is a young kid who is a badass skier or snowboarder. Groms are usually super chill and positive and like to encourage their friends. Grom can be used for any gender.

to do all the time. And skiing here in particular is a fast track to an incredibly high level.” Last year, Wyatt, who, like Brokaw is on JHMR’s Evolution Team, placed third at the Junior Freeride World Championships in Kappl, Austria. He skied a line that “no other riders were looking at as skiable,” his coach Simon Lynes told Buckrail. Lynes says skiing in Jackson prepared Gentry for the championship’s terrain “in a way almost no other mountain could.” Luke says, “So many kids here have the same mindset; everyone is just very good.” Mountains are so embedded in the Jackson Hole community and lifestyle that skiing parents are not needed for a kid to become a ripper. Born and raised in Jackson to non-skiing parents, Jess McMillan was the 2007 Freeskiing World Tour Champion and 2007 U.S. Freeskiing Champion and has been featured in more Warren Miller Entertainment films than she can count, including 2014’s No Turning Back, during the filming of which she and Ingrid Backstrom notched several firstfemale descents of huge lines in Alaska. “I am straight up a product of the community and environment,” says McMillan, who today is director of events and partnerships at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. “Recreation and getting into the

COURTESY PHOTO

Five years ago, when Matt Newton arrived in the valley from Utah to work with the Jackson Hole Ski & Snowboard Club’s freeride program, he noticed that Jackson kids were a different breed. (Freeriding is a discipline in which skiers and snowboarders are judged on their control, fluidity, technique, and style/ energy. If you’ve watched a modern ski movie, most of the skiing and riding featured in it would likely be classified as freeriding.) “These kids have spent their whole lives skiing here and have only known big terrain. I noticed right away they had a lot of comfort with exposure and were really confident and at ease in big mountains and going fast,” says Newton, who is now the JHSC’s head freeride coach. Nate Pruzan would agree. He says his skiing is “normal. I don’t feel like I’m pushing it.” Even though Nate doesn’t feel like he’s pushing it, his mom, Tamsen, recognizes that he, and many kids in Jackson, are pushing it. “As parents, you definitely question your parenting,” she says. “As an adult, you have a far better understanding of the risks and negative outcomes. But then you have this kid who wants to push themself and they’ve spent years doing lessons and training and skill development. What do you do?” (This question and the answers Jackson Hole parents have to it is a feature story of its own that you might see in a future issue of Jackson Hole magazine. This article sticks to the amazing skiing done by some local kids.) Sixteen-year-old skier Lucy Wirth moved to Jackson Hole from Boise, Idaho in 2019 with her family— parents Adam and Kellie Wirth, and older brother, Mac, now 18. “When we first got here, I noticed much more intensity in the skiers here, but it was still so fun,” she says. “Everyone was so good, and we just ripped around.” Last year, Caroline Brokaw, a 13-year-old freerider with JHMR’s Evolution Team, won a footage competition for kids sponsored by Jackson Hole-based Teton Gravity Research, one of the ski and snowboard industry’s biggest media powerhouses. Because of this, footage of her sending a cliff appeared in the opener of TGR’s 2023 movie Legend Has It. In addition to her TGR debut, Brokaw’s skiing is in this winter's movie Advice for Girls. The Gentry brothers—Luke, 20, and Wyatt, 16— started skiing JHMR when they were toddlers. They went to daycare at JHMR Kids Ranch every day and did weekend ski lessons at the resort. “Skiing has always been a huge focus for my family and part of our lives, it is just what we do,” Luke says. “We did play other sports, but skiing was what we wanted

Jess McMillan is now a mom herself to three-year-old Lincoln. She’s not racing to be a ski parent though. As of last October, he had not yet been on alpine skis. “Right now, we go Nordic skiing and I pull him,” she says. “We’re in no rush to get him on skis. I want it to be fun for him. I didn’t start skiing until I was five.”

Caroline Brokaw at 12 years old.

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mountains were part of daily life,” she says. Most days after school in the winter, she and her friends, who were part of the JHSC, skied at Snow King. “We had the run of the place. We’d squeeze three of us onto the old double chair—because you can do that when you’re that little—eat Airhead candies, and just rule the King. We felt like we owned it.” McMillan first skied when she was in kindergarten. “The Wilson School had a winter-sports program every Friday,” she says. “You could choose different sports, and I chose alpine skiing. As soon as my mom saw how much I loved it, she got me into lessons and out skiing with family friends.” She started racing with the JHSC around the time she was eight years old and did that until college.

respect for the environment.” Brokaw finds motivation and self-confidence in skiing. “I see all my teammates doing all this cool stuff, and I feel it is possible for me too,” she says. “Right now, I feel I have the greatest ski group [EVO]; they are all I could wish for. They are all doing well in competition, so even though I am the youngest in my group, it motivates me more.” Wirth isn’t just a resort skier. Her parents introduced her to backcountry skiing, skiing done in areas inaccessible by ski lifts—you have to climb up before skiing down—and where there is no ski patrol that does avalanche mitigation, at a young age. By the time she was in second grade, she skied Wimpy’s, a noteworthy backcountry run in Grand Teton National Park with her parents and older brother. “It was so rewarding, as a little kid in the park we just got to go out with our parents and have a great time as a family,” she says. “It’s so awesome having my dad as a mentor. He’s a great teacher, he shows us things and talks about safety as we go, and I have learned things about the mountains I know I’ll use for the rest of my life.” Nate’s mom, Tamsen, says being able to be in the mountains as a family—Nate has an older brother and a younger sister, both of whom are also mountain athletes—is special. “It takes so much time and energy to build these mountain kids, when you finally do get to go out with them, it makes

“It’s so awesome having my dad as a mentor. He’s a great teacher, he shows us things and talks about safety as we go, and I have learned things about the mountains I know I’ll use for the rest of my life.”

ADAM WIRTH

—LUCY WIRTH

Lucy Wirth sticks out her tongue when skiing powder, a habit she’s had since she was a little kid.

hile some would argue whether or not raising ripping skiers and riders is a worthy goal, kid skiers learn lessons on the slopes that inform and translate to other parts of their lives. JHSC executive director Ali Sehnert says, “Our goal is to make great athletes and great human beings.” McMillan, a JHSC alumna, says, “In skiing, we were allowed to wreck and fail, to get lost, and have a sense of adventure and

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for really lasting memories.” Tamsen grew up in Jackson running in the mountains with her mom. “It was something we could always come back to,” she says. “Getting into the mountains was ground zero no matter what had happened, and now the mountains are ground zero for my family. We get into the mountains, and that is where we can communicate and enjoy each other. I hope this story inspires parents to take their kids into the mountains at whatever level they can.” Skiing might have helped Luke Gentry find a career. In 2022, he, Wyatt, and their friend Tucker Carr, all members of the Salomon Junior Mountain Collective Team, released the 15-minute movie A Little Rogue, A Little Rowdy. Hailed as a “Gen Z magnum opus” by the website Gear Junkie, the film, which follows the trio on a trip around the West as they meet up and ski with other Salomon junior athletes, was nominated for an award at the International Freesports Film Festival. This winter, Luke is taking a gap year to hone his cinematography skills with Teton Gravity Research before he leaves to study film and computer engineering at Montana State University. Two local nonprofits use skiing and riding to help with mental health and also to bridge Jackson Hole’s economic gap. Between 2017 and 2021, Wyoming had the highest suicide rate

The Most Famous Grom of All

At 17 years old, Kai Jones has already appeared in five ski movies. His first was Teton Gravity Research’s Far Out. In it, an 11-year-old Kai skis off a snaggly 35-foot cliff in the Jackson Hole backcountry. (This clip now has more than six million views on YouTube.) That same year, Kai won the under-12 overall title on the International Freeskier Association’s big-mountain competition circuit. At 14, he was the subject of a feature profile in The New York Times. During these early years of his ski career, there was talk that Kai only had what he had because his dad was Todd Jones, one of TGR’s founders. That certainly helped, but Kai now stands on his own two skis, stomping the same lines as professional skiers 10 years his senior. Today, on the slopes and in the base areas of Jackson Hole or Grand Targhee, where he started skiing when he was 18 months old, kids and adults stop Kai, asking him to pose for selfies or sign their ski helmets. More than 123,000 people follow his adventures—he’s also a mountain biker—on Instagram. “I like Kai Jones because he’s a young skier like me and he goes massive,” says 10-year-old Eli Davenport, who lives in Basalt, Colorado, and skied Jackson Hole

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KAIJONES last winter for the first time. “I like his style as a skier and I like to watch videos of him sending it. There’s not a lot of other kids who go huge like him.” @kaijonesski

Kai Jones, seen here at age 12, has been shredding powder since he was a wee lad.

PHOTO COURTESY TETON GRAVIT Y RESEARCH

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JACKSONHOLE The Jackson Hole Ski and Snowboard Club is the valley’s oldest nonprofit. Founded in 1938, the year before Snow King opened as Wyoming’s first ski area, it provides training and competition opportunities for about 500 student athletes in five different disciplines (alpine and Nordic racing, freeskiing, backcountry skiing, and snowboarding). JHSC alum—Breezy Johnson, Resi Steigler, Pete Karns, and Travis Rice, to name just a few—have gone on to compete for the U.S. Ski Team, land on podiums, and be featured in ski movies. Athletes must maintain a minimum GPA to participate. As successful as its athletes have been, among the most valuable lessons the club and its coaches teach kids are the importance of a healthy community, good sportsmanship, setting and pursuing goals, competition, and, at the end of the day, that skiing is supposed to be fun. The ski club wants skiing and these lessons to be accessible for all kids and understands that cost can be a barrier. According to Ali Sehnert, the JHSC’s executive director, currently, about $130,000 is available annually for scholarships. About $120,000 of this goes to need-based applicants, and about 20 percent of JHSC athletes receive some funding. “This covers any kid, from a beginner to one that’s been with us for 12 years, and the fund is anonymous,” says Sehnert. “I’d love to see even more kids apply—if we outgrow our funds, then we will raise our funding goals.”

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LUKE GENTRY

Ski & Snowboard Club Wyatt Gentry skiing in the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort backcountry.

in the country. In 2022, the state’s suicide rate dropped 22 percent (to 26.66 suicides per 100,000 residents), which put it behind Montana and Alaska, but the suicide rate in Teton County did not change. Perhaps contributing to this, and also a problem on its own, Teton County, Wyoming, is the most economically unequal place in the United States according to the Economic Policy Institute; in 2021 the average annual income among the county’s top 1 percent was $22.5 million while the median household income was about $94,000. Jackson Hole native and former pro snowboarder Adam Dowell founded the nonprofit Carving the Future in 2018 with the idea of using snow- and skateboarding to “alleviate the mental health crisis in Wyoming.” Snowboarding was Dowell’s release when his brother, Levi, and his mom, Terrie, died within two years of each other. Dowell was 16 when Levi died. When his mom died so soon after, he struggled to cope with his grief and had severe anxiety and depression. He told Jackson Hole Snowboarder magazine,

“I really had nothing else going for me other than snowboarding.” In 2012, Emily Coombs founded the Doug Coombs Foundation in honor of her late husband, ski legend Doug Coombs. Her goal was to remove economic and cultural barriers so children from various backgrounds in the Jackson community could experience the joy of skiing, develop a lifelong passion, and feel a part of and welcomed in the area’s snow-sports community. Coombs ran the organization herself for seven years; during this time more than 200 kids learned to ski (so did some of their parents). “Skiing taught me so many life skills,” McMillan says. “I learned to work hard and that life isn’t fair. I learned that it’s okay to fail and that you are going to fail and that, when this happens, you have to keep trying. I learned dedication and, even though this sounds dark, I learned how to suffer. And I learned a skill that I will have for the rest of my life that I enjoy. Skiing is a cool gift parents, or a community, can give kids.” JH

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in the Wild //BY DINA MISHEV

People make reservations a year in advance to spend a week of their summer at the remote Darwin Ranch, but it’s even more magical in winter.

//PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEREK STAL

fter we ski across a wooden bridge spanning the Gros Ventre River and pick our way through willowy wetlands, but before we disappear into thick pine forest in search of Ouzel Falls, my husband, Derek, and I take off our backcountry skis to hike up to the base of one of the many red cliff bands that help make the Gros Ventre Mountains the most colorful mountain range surrounding Jackson Hole. JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

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The bridge 10 minutes out of the parking lot where we left our cars and loaded up sleds with our luggage and gear—did it go over the Green River or to a private winter paradise?

The Darwin Ranch has welcomed summer guests on and off for a century; last year was the first time it welcomed winter guests.

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WE BELIEVE

The night before, while sipping Wyoming Whiskey in front of a fire in the dining room at Darwin Ranch, ranch manager Oliver “Ollie” Klingenstein told us there was a panel of petroglyphs on the cliffs near the start of the ski tour to Ouzel Falls. Why ski only to a waterfall when we could also see petroglyphs left behind by this area’s original inhabitants? Derek and I thought we were coming to Darwin Ranch, a 160-acre spread adjacent to the Gros Ventre Wilderness and wholly surrounded by the 3.4-million-acre Bridger-Teton National Forest, for a backcountry ski experience unlike anything else available in the region. On our final full day at the ranch, looking at petroglyphs—they’re quite faded, but one is obviously an antlered animal— and later standing on the bank of the Gros Ventre River at the bottom of Ouzel Falls, a wide-spread sun crust has kept us from making any amazing turns. But we couldn’t care less. Categorizing Darwin as a backcountry ski destination does it a disservice. Imagine the most idyllic winter vacation possible—a cozy main lodge, cabins with wood-burning stoves and wool blankets, a wood-heated hot tub, hearty meals, a landscape blanketed in snow as far as the eye can see—and then be prepared for awesomeness you don’t even know to imagine.

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After snowmobiling in 25 miles, guests are greeted by a cozy main lodge and snacks.

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E X P LO R E M O R E and it had been almost as long since we’d seen anything manmade, including other snowmobile tracks. Running into a family of yetis would have been less surprising than seeing other peo-

It is such a special place, I really "wanted people to be able to experience it in the winter.”

—OLIVER “OLLIE” KLINGENSTEIN, DARWIN RANCH MANAGER

the first time it welcomed guests during the winter. Previously, it hosted guests for week-long summer stays and, in the fall, hunters. “It is such a special place, I really wanted people to be able to experience it in the winter,” says Klingenstein, a farrier and outdoorsman who has managed the ranch since his family bought it in 2014.

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hether summer or winter, the Darwin is not easy to get to. Only 33 miles from Jackson’s Town Square as the crow flies, in summer it’s a 100-mile, three-hour drive, and, in winter, a 75-mile drive followed by a 25mile snowmobile ride. Prepping us for our visit to the ranch, Ollie told me that the Darwin is the most remote guest ranch in the Lower 48 states. I heard this and passed the information on to Derek, but I didn’t understand it until we’d been snowmobiling for two hours

ple. “Aside from the crew waiting for us at the ranch, there’s probably no one else around for 20 miles,” Klingenstein says. The bridge 10 minutes out of the parking lot where we left our cars and loaded up sleds with our luggage and gear—did it go over the Green River or to a private winter paradise? Snowmobiling down switchbacks to the ranch, my question is answered: yes, the bridge did more than take us over the Green. Smoke rises from two chimneys in Darwin’s main lodge, where there's a row of Adirondack chairs, a moose skull, and cords of stacked wood on the front porch. In the side yard, there's a wood-heated hot tub. Guest cabins surround the lodge. Inside the lodge are a library, maps, paintings, and drawings of local animals and landscapes done by longtime guests; more skulls and taxidermied animal heads; board games; river-rock fireplaces; and jars filled with chai chocolate and lemon, currant, and oatmeal cookies.

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Homesteaded in 1901 by Fred Dorwin, the Darwin—a misspelling somewhere along the line turned Dorwin into Darwin—has been a guest ranch on and off since 1923, but last year was

W I N T ER!

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The Darwin Ranch is adjacent to the Gros Ventre Wilderness, where ski touring, snowshoeing, and Nordic skiing are allowed, but not snowmobiling.

Meals at Darwin Ranch are served family-style in a dining room with a crackling fire.

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As we settle into our cabin and get a fire going in the wood-burning stove so that it’ll be nice and toasty when we return from an introduction-to-the-area afternoon ski tour, the lunch bell sounds. I missed this the first time I took in the front porch, but behind the Adirondack chairs and firewood is a triangle bell. One of the two sisters who share cooking duty is enthusiastically ringing it. I’ve been to remote places before, but never in such extreme comfort. Over the next four days, the juxtaposition of the Darwin’s rustic refinement with our remoteness more than makes up for the abysmal ski conditions. Also, while backcountry skiing isn’t in the cards, backcountry touring is. Exploring the Gros Ventre Wilderness around the Darwin in winter without staying at the Darwin would require dragging heavy sleds while skiing and camping in the snow every night (snowmobiles are not allowed in Wilderness areas). Getting to Ouzel Falls this way would take days. But Derek and I do it after a breakfast of perfectly crisped bacon and blueberry pancakes and before snuggling into a couch in front of a fire with our Kindles and a dinner that is the best burger I’ve ever had. darwinranch.com JH

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Wearable // BY DINA MISHEV

// PHOTOGRAPHY BY KATHRYN ZIESIG

A local woman-owned hattery makes contemporary Western hats that look good in Jackson Hole and beyond.

JW Bennett founder Sarah Kjorstad grew up on a cattle ranch in Wyoming's Niobrara County.

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Art I

’ve got a small head, at least in the literal sense. So says Sarah Kjorstad, the founder of and hat-maker at the custom hattery JW Bennett. After more than 25 years of living in Jackson Hole and fruitlessly searching for a Western hat that didn’t make me feel like I was playing dress-up as a cowgirl—I’m more comfortable on mountain summits than in a saddle—and that I did look okay in, I’ve put myself in Kjorstad’s skilled hands to find the perfect hat. “There is a hat for everyone,” she says. “But finding it is a bit of science and a lot of emotion. It needs to fit your face, style, and environment. The perfect hat will be a feeling when you put it on.” Because my head is among the smallest of the ready-towear sizes Kjorstad stocks in her store near Jackson’s Town Square, the feeling I get from the first several hats I put on is of bigness. (Kjorstad can custom-make any size and shape, but I want a hat to wear to a party tonight, so my selection

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Sarah Kjorstad's son and husband knew she was looking to start a small business that allowed her to be creative and gave her a gift certificate for a hat-making workshop in Tennessee.

is limited, although “limited” still means at least a dozen hats in my tiny size from which to choose.) Seeing someone find their perfect hat gives Kjorstad a feeling, too. After her son, Landon, was settled into elementary school, Kjorstad, who previously had a successful career as a physical therapist, “wanted to do something that was creative and that spoke to my soul and that was a legitimate business, not some side gig,” she says. She started doing some beading, but that wasn’t cutting it. “I wanted something bigger,” she says. Having grown up on a ranch in far eastern Wyoming, in Niobrara County, that her mom’s grandparents had homesteaded, Kjorstad knew cowboys and cowgirls— and their hats. Living in Jackson Hole, she knew it wasn’t just cowboys and cowgirls who wanted Western hats. “I thought that contemporary Western hats—hats that were at home

The name of Kjorstad’s hattery, JW Bennett, honors her family and its ranching legacy. “J” and “W” are her mom’s and dad’s initials (Jimmy and Jackie Williams) and their cattle brand is called “upside down J-W.” Bennett is the maiden name of Kjorstad’s grandmother and her dad’s middle name.

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in Jackson Hole, but not so Western they looked costume-y in a city—were something that people would appreciate.” That Christmas, then nine-yearold Landon and her husband gave her a hand-written coupon good for “a hat class to start your own business.” In 2017, Kjorstad traveled to Covington, Tennessee, to learn the art and craft of making hats from Mike Moore, founder of Buckaroo Hatters. “They showed me just enough to be dangerous,” she says. She returned home, rustled up the necessary equipment (with some luck and Moore’s help; much hatmaking equipment is antique because the demand for custom hats has been on the decline for the last century), and started shaping hats. “Shaping a hat is like molding clay,” Kjorstad says. “It was not going well for me and was frustrating and scary.” At one point, she was so frustrated she took the hat she was working on—whose shape she didn’t like—put it on her head, and “squashed

Before hats are shaped, they are steamed.

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After spraying the hat with alcohol, Kjorstad ignites it. This burns off the leftover felt fuzz.

it.” And that made it a shape she actually liked. “But it was specific to my head,” she says. “It wasn’t something I could stock.” (Called the “rough rider,” she does custom make this hat for cli-

is a hat for everyone. But finding it " There is a bit of science and a lot of emotion.

It needs to fit your face, your style, and environment. The perfect hat will be a feeling when you put it on." —SARAH KJORSTAD

ents.) Kjorstad went back to Covington to do a deep dive in shaping. “I wanted to learn how to do the classic shapes and do them well,” she says. “Once I got the classics down, I figured I could riff on those and be more confident in and trust my own shapes.”

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Before I can pick the shape of my hat though, I need to figure out the correct size. Kjorstad says the fit is right when I feel the hat sitting on my forehead but it’s not constricting. The next decision is what weight of hat I want—dress or 100X. Both are made from high-quality felt Kjorstad sources mostly from Tennessee. “The dress hats can need reshaping from time to time due to their softer nature,” she says. It’s easy for a professional to reshape a felt hat, but I like the idea of low-maintenance. Kjorstad says the shape of a 100X hat is indestructible, so I go with that weight. Now it’s time to select the shape and color. Having previously purchased a handful of hats whose shapes I did not like on me, I prioritize shape—a teardrop crown— and then color—Sahara, a warm tan. All of these decisions have taken almost an hour, and my brain is a

little tired. “But now the fun starts,” Kjorstad says. I have a hat; now I need to style and accessorize it. Do I want my initials branded onto it? Do I want to keep the brim flat, or give it a little shape? Every JW Bennett hat comes with a hand-sewn silhouette of the Tetons on the side of its crown; I can add additional flair via a hand-loomed bead or feather band, facsimiles of flies, and hat jewelry. Because Kjorstad says the branding can happen at any point in the future, I skip it for now. Because the felt can be reshaped an almost infinite number of times, I decide to play with the brim a bit, adding a small lip along the front of one side. “If you decide you don’t like it, we can try something different,” Kjorstad says as she steams the brim to ready it to take a new shape. While I like the feathered bands for the fact that all of the feathers in them come from Kjorstad family hunting trips, I ultimately decide on a Sunset beaded band—“Its colors are inspired by the mountain skies,” Kjorstad says—and, even though I’m no more a fly-fisherwoman than I am a cowgirl, a version of a Jock Scott salmon fly. It’s green, my favorite color. (Kjorstad makes sure to point out that she knows we don’t have salmon to fish for in Wyoming. “The fly is an ode to the outdoors person and makes a bigger statement on the hat!” she says) With the brim reshaped, the Sunset band snugged at the base of the hat, and the green fly pinned onto the crown, I nervously put my hat on. What if I don’t feel anything? Sensing my trepidation, Kjorstad says, “I can already tell—you don’t have anything to worry about.” She’s right. It’s the same feeling I get when I meet a new acquaintance that I think might grow into a good friend. Felt hats from $645; 55 N. Glenwood St., Suite E, Jackson; 307/201-5669, jwbennett.com JH JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2024

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Jonathan Selkowitz