11.2 SEPTEMBER
the
european TRAVEL issue GO HOSTEL IN EUROPE
NO MATTER YOUR AGE GET BLOWN AWAY IN
Mykonos Pagan Rituals IN BASQUE COUNTRY
airline delays? lollygag thru PLUS...
10 Tips On Getting
50+ Travel Deals
*
FRANCE
& THEN BLAME IT ON A VOLCANO!
T H E M A G A Z I N E W R I T T E N B Y N O R T H A M E R I C A N T R AV E L J O U R N A L I S T S A S S O C I AT I O N M E M B E R S
the
european TRAVEL issue
TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / 11.2 SEPT
11.2 SEPTEMBER
FEATURES 8
BLAME IT ON EYJAFJALLAJÖKULL When forced to stay in France longer than planned, this photo journalist lollygagged his way from Lourdes to the Loire and has the images to show for it. STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY BENJAMIN RAICES
26 BLOWN AWAY IN PARADISE Be prepared for gusting winds—and other tips for an enchanting day trip to Mykonos STORY BY BEVERLY BURMEIER/PHOTOGRAPHY BY LARRY AND BEVERLY BURMEIER
34 THE MAGIC OF ZUGARRAMURDI SPAIN Celebrating the Day of the Witch and other historic pagan rituals and sites in Basque Country STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY REGINA WINKLE-BRYAN
42 HOSTELLING FOR THE NOT-SO-YOUNG Just because you’re no longer in your 20s doesn’t mean a hostel isn’t the right accommodation for your European vacation STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL DWYER
46 DESIGNS ON FINLAND Discover this often-overlooked Scandinavian country that has much beauty to offer beyond its famous lakes and saunas BY BARBARA BARTON SLOANE
52 MODERNIZING METZ A new Pompidou Centre museum increases the draw to this historic and already architecturally rich French city STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOANN GRECO
COLUMNS 4 FROM THE PUBLISHER 58 FAMILY Exotic Cruises Fit For Family Travel /
63 64
BOOK STORE SENIOR TRAVEL
Top 10 Tips For Senior Travel Deals /
66
BY LISA TE SONNE
BY VICTOR BLOCK
DESTINATION INFORMATION
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*
LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER
8
34
46
52
My grandfather rarely traveled outside the United States. He thought that there really wasn’t anything you couldn’t see right here in the “good ‘ol US of A.” I love my Comments? Questions?
Montana-born and bred grandfather dearly. He is the one who introduced travel to me
Suggestions? Drop us a line at TravelWorld
and taught me the value of writing. But I disagree with him on this point of view. It is truly a magical experience when one gets to travel in Europe. So much history and beauty.
International Magazine by emailing jerrih@natja.org.
Much of which you cannot see here in the States. Much of that magic is captured here in this European Travel Issue of TravelWorld International Magazine. Just read about it from this issue’s contributors. Photojournalist
Submission? Submit story and photography pitches to jerrih@natja.org. Do not submit images
Benjamin Raices got “stuck” in France longer than expected (p. 8) and decided to tell his tale thru the lens. Beverly Burmeier gusts into Greece (p. 26) and gives readers tips about day-tripping to Mykonos. Regina Winkle-Bryan explores the pagan rituals in Spain
unless requested.
(p. 34). Returning contributor Michael Dwyer shows us that you don’t need to be in your 20s to take advantages of hostels in Europe (p. 42). Barbara Barton Sloane puts to rest the idea that Finland (p. 46) is only a land of lakes and saunas. Joann Greco shares with us how the Pompidou Centre Museum in Metz (p. 52) is bringing the modern to a historically-rich city. Two of our popular columns deliver outstanding tips for our readers of this issue. Victor Block gives our 50+ readers tips on how to find travel deals in Europe (p. 64). And Lisa TE Sonne lets us feel comfortable taking kids on exotic cruises (p. 58). I hope you enjoy the issue. Safe travels!
Jerri Jerri Hemsworth, Publisher
TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / 11.2 SEPT
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The Benefits of Being a NATJA Member TravelWorld International Magazine is the only magazine that showcases the member talents of the North American Travel Journalists Association Group Publisher
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When forced to stay in France longer than planned, this photo journalist lollygagged his way from Lourdes to the Loire and has the images to show for it. STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY BENJAMIN RAICES
W
hen the Icelandic volcano, Eyjafjallajรถkull, closed European airports, we found ourselves among thousands of stranded travellers elbowing for a spot in line to get out of Europe. Our travel money largely spent, we could ill-afford a week or two in a Paris hotel waiting for De Gaulle to rebook. So, we found a better way to spend our time... TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL
8
eyjafja
llajรถkull
RECALCULATING ROUTE We made a hard left turn after leaving friends in Aix-en-Provence and headed for the French Pyrenees. Each day, we woke to beautiful crisp mornings, bright skies and sumptuous colors as we drove casually from the shrine at Lourdes through a modern St. Emilion. We casually encountered the Romanesque XII century Abbye de
Rugged and fundamental, the French Pyrenees present beautiful springtime vistas.
La Suave-Majeure and made way to the Loire’s playground chateaux as well as Chartres gothic cathedral. By the time we got to Paris, the travelers’ backlog had dissipated. We were late getting home, but the serendipity of Eyjafjallajökull had given us a delightful week, a feast for the eyes and the best antidote imaginable to the stresses of a schedule.
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chateau de
CHEVERNY
The canals around the chateau brought the classic image of a French road bordered by overhanging trees disappearing to a vanishing point.
The classic, beautifully symmetrical Chateau de Cheverny was built by Philippe Hurault who acquired the site from Henry II's mistress Diane de Poitiers. The chateau features remarkable interiors, period furniture and tapestries.
chateau de
CHEVERNY
The gardens at the service facilities supporting the chateau are a riot of color in the early spring.
Benedictine Abbye de La Sauve-Mejeure., dating from the XII century, was a stop for pilgrims on the road of Saint James of Compostele.
Capitals reflect fine stonework of Medieval masons.
ABBYE
Outside Bordeaux, on the way to Abbye de La Sauve-Mejeure.
Stopping on the road to Abbye Sauve-Majeure.
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chateau de
CHAMBORD
Built by King Francois 1, this is the largest of the Loire chateaux. French Renaissance design features groupings of rooms in the four massive towers. The chateau was used principally as a hunting lodge for the royal court.
Tapestries adorn many of the chateau’s walls. They provide decoration and soften the chill of stone walls.
The famous double helix staircase of Chambord was supposedly designed by Leonardo di Vinci. The spirals ascend three floors without touching.
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18
Chartres Cathedral, dating from the twelfth century, presents a stunning example of French High Gothic architecture. The remarkable stonework of its jamb statues shows off the exceptional artistry of its medieval masons.
CHARTRES TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / 11.2 SEPT
CHAUMONT
This beautifully restored chateau boasts a rich and varied history including the rivalry between Catherine de Medici and Diane de Poitiers. Later owners added remarkable design elements and colors to the rooms.
Built over the River Cher, the facade of Chenonceau hides stunning interiors and appointments reflecting the life and times of French royalty.
CHENONCEAU
LOURDES TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / 11.2 SEPT
Pilgrims flock to Lourdes, site of the Marian Apparitions of Our Lady Of Lourdes to Bernadette Soubirous in 1858.
Memorials at St Emilion town center.
ST. EMILION
Te monastery offered quite walks and a cool place to sit, focus and be mindful of the delights of a spring afternoon.
Blown Aw i n
p a r a d i
“I’d like tell you that I don’t always look like this, but I do,” said our lovely 20-something guide, as her long dark hair whipped across her face. It didn’t take long to understand what she meant as we struggled to keep our own demeanor during gale-force gusts that blew across the Greek island of Mykonos.
Little Venice, a section of buildings built on the water's edge, provides a scenic spot for al fresco dining.
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way s e
Be prepared for gusting winds—and other tips for an enchanting day trip to Mykonos STORY BY BEVERLY BURMEIER PHOTOGRAPHY BY LARRY AND BEVERLY BURMEIER
Blown Away i n
p a r a d i s e
Still, wind from the Aegean Sea helps keep the climate of this Mediterranean island moderate—and it adds a distinctive appeal to the destination’s old port town, located five hours from Athens via ferry, or just 40 minutes by plane, which makes a day trip to Mykonos doable if you can’t fit a longer stay into your travel plans. The island also is a popular stop on many Mediterranean and Greek Isle cruises, allowing visitors to sample its highlights on a daylong shore excursion, which is how my husband and I came to explore Mykonos. WELCOME TO MYKONOS Tourists discovered Mykonos in the 1950s and 1960s and currently expand its modest population of 11,000 up to a million during the summer months. Europeans find the island as appealing as Americans do and arrive in droves during their holidays in late July and the first three weeks of August. A less-crowded time to visit is during May and June, or September to mid-October. Mykonos is the smallest of the group of islands known as the Cyclades, which are prominent in stories from Greek mythology. The nearby island of Delos, touted as the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis, and now an uninhabited UNESCO site, has developed as a sacred center and archaeological site with remarkable Greek ruins. Proximity to Delos and the island’s geographic location as a shipping crossroads in the Aegean Sea have helped Mykonos flourish. With rocky terrain and dry, windy, saltinfused air, conditions aren’t good for growing plants or animals, which means the economy depends on tourism—not TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / 11.2 SEPT
Steep stairs and narrow alleys connect homes in the old part of town.
Windmills near the harbor are one of the island's most recognizable landmarks.
Smaller churches dot the landscape; many have brightly colored doors that contrast with the starkly white exterior.
The inside of the cathedral is elaborately decorated with Christian symbols.
Blown Away i n
The triple bell tower is a distinctive feature of
p a r a d i s e
Panagia Tourliani Monastery.
The white-washed Paraportiani is one of Mykonos' most famous churches.
If You Go... Municipality of Mykonos www.mykonos.gr TOURS We booked our tour from the Ruby Princess cruise ship, but there are plenty of tour operators on the island offering similar excursions. RECOMMENDED RESOURCES Mykonos Web www.mykonos-web.com Mykonos World Guides www.mykonos.world-guides.com
View of iconic white houses on hillside of Mykonos.
difficult to achieve since the island is graced with beautiful scenery. Despite its reputation as a cosmopolitan island, Mykonos has steadfastly avoided common traps of overpopulated destinations. You’ll find no fastfood restaurants or lighted signs on the island. Streets and alleys in the town of Mykonos (also called Chora) are narrow and curvy, developed that way to confuse pirates and protect homeowners in “olden days.” Because it’s easy to lose your bearings, consider taking a guided walking tour. For three hours we followed our guide, Amaryllis—think Sophie in Mamma Mia!—whose lilting British accent belied her life-long residency on Mykonos. After navigating safely through the city’s maze with her help, we felt confident to set off exploring on our own.
At first glance Mykonos strikes a captivating scene with its closely spaced white-washed buildings, all sporting flat roofs—conditions originally meant to keep homes cool and clean but now required by law on all new construction. The lime wash still used to make buildings white, a stunning contrast with nearby deep-blue ocean water, is touted as an antiseptic that’s beneficial for people living in close quarters. Shutters and doors are allowed to add specks of color, and people have chosen mostly blue and red. ISLAND OF CHURCHES Churches are important attractions on the island, and one of the finest that shouldn’t be missed is the 16th century Greek Orthodox Panagia Tourliani Monastery in the central village of Ano Mera, about five miles east of the town
of Mykonos. The cathedral is dedicated to Saint Mary with a festival in her honor celebrated each August 15. Visitors come to admire the monastery’s ornate interior including hanging incense holders that line the wall, a wooden altar screen made in 1775 by Florentine artists and an impressive triple bell tower. We almost missed these architectural delights because the cathedral was being prepared for a wedding on the day of our visit. Fortunately, one of the monks allowed us to come inside and take photos. Near the harbor entrance, overlooking the Aegean Sea, is the most famous and widely-photographed church in Mykonos—the whitewashed Panagia Paraportiani. Dating back to the 15th century, this starkwhite edifice is actually five churches; four comprise its base, and the fifth is 11.2 SEPT / TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL
Blown Away i n
p a r a d i s e
built as the dome on top. Along with more than 40 smaller churches, these jewels of the island are an important part of Greek culture. Additionally, almost every family on the island has a small private chapel dedicated to a specific saint. Originally constructed as aids for the safe return of sailors, there are now about 500 such churches, all facing the sea to the west. Wealthier families traditionally host large feasts and celebrations, open to the public, on their designated saint’s holy day. There also are summer parties that feature concerts and theatrical presentations that are open to visitors and can be fun to attend. Some key ones that pay homage to local saints include: Agion Apostolon—June 30 Agia Paraskevi—July 26 Panagia Tourliani—August 15 Agios Ioannis—August 29 WINDMILLS, MUSEUMS AND OTHER ATTRACTIONS Among the most recognized of Mykonos’ landmarks are its windmills. Originally used to prepare grain for transport, the windmills are positioned near the harbor and at one time covered the entire western part of town. In the same vicinity, where town meets the ocean, is an area called “Little Venice” because its 16th and 17th century buildings were constructed on the edge of the sea with balconies overhanging the water. Although you won’t want to spend too much time indoors while on the island, if you’re a culture buff some museums to consider include the Archaeological Museum, located near the harbor and built around 1900; the TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / 11.2 SEPT
Mykonos Folklore Museum, located in an 18th century captain’s house; and the Agricultural Museum, along with the Boni Windmill and Lena’s House— all historical and cultural buildings of interest and divisions within the Folklore Museum. Plus the Agricultural Museum hosts the annual grape harvest feast in mid-September. There’s also the Aegean Maritime Museum, with displays of scale models of various boats and sailing vessels, and the Armenistis Lighthouse, which is popular with photographers because of the scenic views from its elevated perch on the northwestern tip of Mykonos. Finally, if you’re lucky, you’ll see the official mascot of Mykonos, Petros the Pelican (at least his namesake successor), along the waterfront. MYKONOS DINING AND SHOPPING Restaurants, cafes, and bars—many with outdoor seating—cater to tourists and have helped build the island’s reputation for nightlife and partying. We didn’t stop at any venues, but the “Little Venice” area is a popular spot for al fresco dining, as are most of the island’s beaches, which are lined with taverns and restaurants and are well equipped with chairs and umbrellas. One place noted by several respected travel and food publications is Kiki’s, a taverna perched above Agios Sostis beach, on the north shore. Lunch is the only meal served and features a catch of the day, fresh salads and grilled meats. There’s no sign or phone number. Shopping covers the spectrum with typical art galleries, jewelry, and clothing and shoe stores that you’ll find in touristy destinations—but without street peddlers hawking goods. It’s a more civilized form of souvenir hunting. Designer boutiques stay open late every day during the summer, some until midnight. Souvenir shops are
plentiful, too, with the requisite colorful pottery for which Greece is known. Although I rarely buy T-shirts, I found a stylish one with a subtle embroidered design. BARE BEACHES Then, of course, there are those famous soft-sand, crystal-blue Mykonos beaches—at least 30 scattered in coves around the island. Southern beaches sport golden sand and crystal clear water. Calm and sheltered from the winds, these beaches may be family-oriented or cater to those looking for less—clothing is optional. But topless bathers hardly get a second glance, even at the conservative Ornos Beach where we dipped our toes in the Aegean Sea. Gusty northern beaches, including Kalafatis, Agios Sostis and Panormos, tend to attract adventurous types like wind surfers or folks who prefer peaceful, unoccupied expanses. Resorts have sprung up near the most popular beaches, which are easy to get to via frequent bus service— Platys Gialos, Ornos, Agios Ioannis, Psarou, Paranga, Agios Stefanos, Tourlos and Paradise. Buses run every hour to more isolated beaches: Elia, Kalafati and Kalo Livadi. Beaches where you’ll need your own transportation: Super Paradise, Agios Sostis, Panormos, Houlakla, Agrari and Lia. In just one day, we were smitten by the island’s combination of old-world tradition and modern-day merriment. In that short time we began to understand why Mykonos is one of the most celebrated vacation islands in the world and definitely worth another visit. Beverly Burmeier is a freelance writer based in the beautiful Hill Country of central Texas. A gadabout at heart, she relishes discovering new places, trying new adventures, meeting new people and sharing it all with readers.
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Celebrating the Day of the Witch and other historic pagan rituals and sites in Basque Country STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY REGINA WINKLE-BRYAN
The Magic of
zugarramu
TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / 11.2 SEPT
f
Pulling into town early that June Saturday morning,
urdi
I found myself transported back in time 400 years. The village of Zugarramurdi looked much like the set for a Harry Potter movie mixed with a Basque renaissance fair and a touch of new-age-hippy-scene thrown in for good measure Women were dressed in tied-up bodices and tall turban hats, clutching broomsticks in their hands. Medieval games were set up in the streets for kids, and stands lined the small streets selling rounds of organic bread, sparkling stones to set energetic fields right, and herbs and oils to cure coughs and break spells.
Spain
Looking out the witch cave entrance.
The Magic of
zugarramurdi
Spain
I was in Zugarramurdi to celebrate the upcoming summer solstice and to take a look at the village’s famous Witch Caves and Witch Museum. Held each year the Saturday before the summer solstice (a.k.a. El Dia de San Juan in Spain), the Day of the Witch, or El Dia de la Bruja, is the foremost date to visit Zugarramurdi and learn about its diabolical past. Zugarramurdi is located deep within the Baztan Valley near the southwestern Spanish-French border, a few miles away from the pristine shores of the Bay of Biscay. Teeny, Zugarramurdi has just 210 inhabitants most of the year and is made up of sweet little houses painted in chalk white and adorned with sturdy wooden shutters to keep out winter’s chill. Bountiful flowerpots filled with pansies and geraniums spill from windows along Zugarramurdi’s streets, and the countryside surrounding the town is a lush green thanks to year-round rainfall. As I drove from Ainhoa to Zugarramurdi, I admired the quintessential Basque countryside. There are fluffy sheep knee-deep in verdant grassland stretching over bulbous hills and manicured, yet unpretentious, farmhouses around every bend. It is easy to see why the Spanish say this region of the Basque Country is enchanted. THE SALEM OF SPAIN Certainly I felt bewitched by Zugarramurdi’s profound tranquility and fascinating history. For hundreds of years the town was home to “witches and warlocks” who used the nearby natural caves as a meeting point for magical rituals. When I say witch and warlock, I mean to say that these were people who held pagan beliefs and practiced natural medicine. The enormous caves, the largest measuring 40 feet high and 394 feet across at its widest, were used for pagan rites, but were also used as a sort of community center where townspeople would gather for various celebrations and events. Above all, it is important to remember that the people of Zugarramurdi were not worshiping the devil or performing satanic ceremonies in the caves. However, that is not how the Spanish Inquisition perceived matters when it came to town from 1609 to 1614. Don Juan del Valle Alvarado led a witch hunt in Zugarramurdi, not unlike those that happened later in the century in Salem, Massachusetts, and accused people of doing the craziest things, such as casting spells on crops, people and animals; shape shifting; being vampires; causing storms and creating shipwrecks; and basically worshipping satan as their god. By 1610, 53 villagers had been arrested. The Auto de Fe took place on November 7 and 8, 1610, when 31 prisoners from Zugarra11.2 SEPT / TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL
murdi were judged in front of 30,000 people. Eleven of them were burnt at a stake (six alive and five dead bodies), three sent into exile, life imprisonment for six and the rest were forgiven if they came back to Christianity.
On the trail to the witch caves.
WITCH MUSEUM AND WITCH CAVES This gruesome history is told in detail at the Witch Museum in the center of the village in what was once Zugarramurdi’s old hospital. The Witch Museum (Museo de las Brujas) opened in 2007 and covers how the Inquisition ended up in Zugarramurdi, what the Inquisition really was, the profile of inquisitors Juan del Valle Alvarado and Alonso de Becerra, the true nature of witchcraft and natural remedies, the ancient matriarchal belief system in Basque history, and a look at an antique kitchen like those used by “witches,” healers and midwives in Zugarramurdi in the 17th century. Seeing the Witch Museum and the Witch Caves takes most of the morning. The caves are well maintained, but those who visit them will need sturdy shoes as the paths through and around the caves are rocky and can be muddy. On my hike through the caves in June, the forest surrounding them was thick, replete with cherry trees, wild strawberries and purple figs that hung like weird decorations from slender limbs. Those who visit the cave complex are given a map of the area and can 11.2 SEPT / TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL
The Magic of
zugarramurdi
Spain
take a self-guided tour through the caves and the woods encompassing them. Markers show where magic ceremonies were held, and point out medicinal plants along the way. DAY OF THE WITCH FESTIVAL On the Day of the Witch (set for June 18, 2011), a special ceremony is held at night in the caves. According to Ainhoa Aljuirre, the Witch Cave manager, the highlight of the festival happens around 9 p.m., when a bonfire and “magical” ritual is celebrated in the largest cave. Lasting about 30 to 40 minutes, this performance is often followed by live music in the caves. The bonfire celebration marks the end of El Dia de la Bruja, and is open to all, witch, warlock or otherwise. For those who can’t stay late for the bonfire, there is plenty to do at the festival during daylight hours. After paying a visit to the caves and museum, I wanted to take part in the paranormal offerings put on by the festival, so decided to have my palm read by one of the 20 or more psychics set up throughout the streets. I waited my turn, (there was a line to see the palm reader) and then was finally seated across from my fortuneteller, a sparkly-eyed man in his fifties wearing an orange kaftan. Besides many other juicy tidbits, my kaftan-man told me that I would soon marry a ninja, learn Russian and become pregnant. He said my future child would do great things and that a relative of mine was Jesse James in a past life. He read my palmdutifully, sometimes going into a sort of trance, and sometimes being interrupted by customers who wanted to buy a crystal from him. At the end of our session he charged me more than it TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / 11.2 SEPT
said on his sign, and when I protested he gave me a talisman. For such a tiny village, there’s much to see in Zugarramurdi. Its history, in addition to the events offered up for the Day of the Witch festival, kept me entertained most of the day, and in the year since my visit I have thought about the bijou Basque village many times. Perhaps, like many who have come before me, I’ve been bewitched by Zugarramurdi.
Regina Winkle-Bryan is a Barcelona-based freelance writer and photographer, originally from Portland, Oregon. When not exploring Europe, she is tending her balcony veggie garden and practicing Catalan. She writes on all things Spain on The Spain Scoop and UpTake.com and has been published in several outlets, including Islands, Spa, Hotelier, Adbusters and Afar. Two of her fiction short stories will be published this year. See more of her work at www.regwb.com.
If You Go... Day of the Witch – June 18, 2011 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. in the village and the caves Witch Caves Entrance fee: 3.50 euros (about US$5.20 at current exchange rates) http://www.zugarramurdi.es/
Witch Museum Entrance fee: 4.50 euros (US$6.50) Tel: +34-94-859-9004 info@zugarramurdi.es Navarra Region Tourism www.turismo.navarra.es Hotel Churrut From 190 euros for two nights (US$281) www.hotelchurrut.com 11.2 SEPT / TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL
For the
Not-So-Young TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / 11.2 SEPT
PHOTO: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM
Hostelling
g
R
unning around Europe with a backpack, jumping on trains and buses, and sleeping in hostels may seem like an adventure for college students on summer vacation. However, the traveler seeking culture, value and flexibility can be any age with any budget. I learned to be a savvy traveler at the age of 20 on my first backpacking trip through Europe. By stretching my travel dollars, I feel my experiences were more satisfying. The skills I acquired taught me to respect different cultures and to engage the people I met. Now, in my 40s, I still enjoy traveling on a budget using European hostels. Travelers of all ages use them; and for the most part, they are clean, safe and inexpensive. WHAT ARE HOSTELS LIKE TODAY? The basics remain the same: Dorm rooms for men and women, shared bathrooms, kitchen area and a common area to meet other travelers. At check-in, you’ll be given a key, room number and bed number. Many of the hostels now use a key card like hotels to enter the building after hours and to access your room—it works well. Today most hostels also have pay laundry, lockers and Internet access. A simple room that included breakfast was the standard 20 years ago; many European hostels now offer additional dining options throughout the day. Don’t worry budget travelers, the common-use kitchen is still available for you and is a wonderful way to make friends. More and more, you’ll find private rooms, co-ed rooms and family rooms available so couples, children and groups can be together. Along with food, alcohol is commonly served in hostels around Europe.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED First of all, pack light and use a backpack. Back in the 1980s, mountain climbing and camping packs were used to travel light and to be handsfree. Over time, the travel pack has evolved into an easy-to-use, comfortable option for placing all your gear in one bag on your back. The kind with hideaway shoulder straps is especially airport-friendly. A sleep sack is handy for use in hostels and is often required. Basically, it’s a bed
buy a membership ($28 annually), and I suggest buying its hostel directory as well. There are, however, many nonaffiliated hostels around the world that work just as well. You may book online, in person or over the phone. I try to book my next hostel when checking out of my current one. HI hostels offer a convenient online booking system. There also are several online booking engines dedicated to hostels: hostel.com, hostelworld,com, hostelbookers.com are just a few.
Just because you’re no longer in your 20s doesn’t mean a hostel isn’t the right accommodation for your European vacation
BENEFITS OF THE HOSTEL EXPERIENCE… Skiing in the Alps, white-water rafting, historic walking tours and pub crawls are activities I booked from hostels in Europe. From friendly English-speaking staff to community bulletin boards, it’s easy to plan a local excursion. And since many hostels are geared toward the budget traveler, prices are reasonable and usually better than what a hotel concierge can do for you. I love all the people you meet from around the world in a hostel setting. English is the second language for many, so just walk up to someone and start a conversation. You may find a wing-man for a couple nights at the pub in Dublin or a ski buddy in Austria. At the very least, you’re likely to get a restaurant suggestion or be advised of the latest exhibit at a nearby museum.
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL DWYER sheet folded in half and sewn up like a sleeping bag. Do not, however, take a sleeping bag, as they’re too bulky, but remember to pack a pillowcase. Money belts are very popular for hostel travelers, as is a super-absorbent travel bath towel for use in shared shower areas. HOW TO BOOK A HOSTEL Hostels come in all shapes and sizes, can be new or old and are located just about everywhere. I like to use “HI” hostels. Hostelling International hostels are members of a worldwide organization in 90 countries featuring more than 4,000 hostels. You’ll need to
…AND THE DISADVANTAGES Well, there can be a few negative experiences. Snoring is up there on my list. Since you’ll be sharing your room with others, take earplugs or fall asleep listening to your iPod. Less privacy is the norm in hostels, especially in the bathrooms. I shower at night to avoid the occasional line that may happen in the morning. Also, take a combination
a.
c.
b.
d. lock—there are often lockers to use in the hostel. START TRAVELING There are so many options with the huge hostel network found in Europe that you just need to get out there and begin traveling. I meet all ages of people from all over the world in hostels and feel very comfortable doing so. If you are just out of college, or in your 40s, or even if you are retired and enjoying
e.
If You Go... Hostelling International Hostels www.hihostels.com Hostel World www.hostelworld.com HI Membership www.hiusa.org
Rail Europe www.raileurope.com Rick Steves’ Europe Through the Back Door www.ricksteves.com Let’s Go Europe www.letsgo.com Lonely Planet Europe www.lonelyplanet.com/europe
Dorm bed, per night, per person, in U.S. dollars, based on 2011 summer travel and current exchange rates: Dublin, Ireland: $27 Hamburg, Germany: $33 Paris, France: $38 Toledo, Spain: $26 Venice, Italy: $32
f.
those “golden years,” hostels can be for you. Be a traveler, not a tourist. Meet the people, learn about the culture and enjoy the adventure. Hostellers make great friends for life. I plan to hostel forever, budget aside, and to get more from my vacation experience. It only takes a few overnights to get into the groove of hostelling—and if you’re open to the experience, I know you’ll love it as much as I do. Still, these days many hostels also
have upgraded their facilities with contemporary IKEA-like furniture designed for efficiency, provide communal computers and free Wi-Fi access, and even welcome seniors and families.
a. A local snack fun, tasty, and inexpensive. b. Front entrance at a European Hostel. c. Common use kitchens are available to save money by making your own meals at the Hostel. d. Smart lockers make security easy at most Hostels. e. Reception area at a Paris Hostel.
Michael Dwyer is a travel columnist, freelance
f. Know the name of the Hostel and look for signs.
writer and broadcast journalist living in southeast Michigan. He writes about travel, relationships and dating. He is founder of the Rochester Writers’ Conference and can be reached at michael@rochesterwriters.com. 11.2 SEPT / TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL
designs on
PHOTO: CITY OF TURKU
d n a l Fin Discover this often-overlooked Scandinavian country that has much beauty to offer beyond its famous lakes and saunas BY BARBARA BARTON SLOANE
TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / 11.2 SEPT
H
elsinki, Finland, has been chosen to be the World Design Capital in 2012, and this news was a clarion call for me to visit a land that is thousands of years old and, at the same time, a standardbearer for modern, cutting-edge design. Design should never say, “Look at me.” It should always say, “Look at this.” True to the quote, Helsinki— indeed all of Finland—never says, “Look at me,” but visitors are compelled to look at it all, savoring the country’s stark beauty, its widespread artistic design and, most especially, the Finnish people, who make you feel most welcome.
Turku Cathedral Café.
HELSINKI HIGHLIGHTS The Finland capital Helsinki is a stylish, relaxed city and a dream destination for walkers as most of the important sights are conveniently situated in the city’s center. The Design District is Helsinki’s arts and crafts-oriented neighborhood. The area is home to a wide range of designer shops, interior decorating studios, antique dealers and jewelry boutiques. While here, I visited some of the artists’ workshops and saw beauty being created right before my eyes. At a silver shop, I looked on as the designer made a lacy, filigree pendant and added the finishing touches to a heavy silver ring set with a fine piece of jade. Market Square is lively and bustling with vendors selling everything from all kinds of berries to produce to clothing and silver jewelry. I had a pleasant morning sitting at a cafe, drinking coffee brewed strong and steaming, complimented by some fresh Finnish cloudberries (similar looking to raspberries), and allowing myself to be caressed by breezes coming in off the nearby Baltic Sea.
Western riverbank in Porvoo. PHOTO COURTESY PORVOO CITY TOURIST OFFICE.
There are 80 museums in Helsinki, enough to keep visitors busy for an entire stay, and then some. Because you won’t have time to see them all in a single visit, one not to miss is the Ateneum Museum, which houses the largest art collection in the country, displaying Finnish art from the 1750s to the 1960s, and Western art from the late 19th century to the 1950s. The museum also contains one of the first Van Gogh paintings placed in a museum, and it is here where you’ll view a haunting work titled “The Wounded Angel,” by Hugo Simberg. This allegory depicts two boys transporting a blond child-angel. The lead boy trudges along dutifully, the boy in the rear gazes sullenly out at the viewer. At the time this was painted, there were many charity institutions in the park where this procession is said to have taken place. The sweet, white-clothed angel, eyes bandaged, her wings drooping forlornly, gives off TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / 11.2 SEPT
an air of resignation as she is carried to the Blind Girl’s School. “The Wounded Angel” was voted Finland’s national painting, and you’ll remember it long after leaving the Ateneum. Another memorable event was attending a Jean Sebelius concert by the Finnish orchestra Tapiola Sinfonietta held at Helsinki University Hall, the very room where Sebelius began his career in 1899. Conducted by the renowned Leif Segerstam, rotund, dynamic and compelling, he lent an air of excitement to the entire concert. Segerstam is irrepressible and joyous, so it was quite fun to glide along on his flourishing baton as he conducted the glorious Symphony No. 1 in E Minor. Outside the city center on a group of islands is Suomenlinna, an 18th century sea fortress recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its distinct military architecture. It’s one of Helsinki’s most popular sites, not just for its history but also for its bird-
watching opportunities, as the archipelago is a migratory stop for geese, swans and other species. PORVOO PLEASURES An appealing feature of Helsinki’s location is that there are easy ferry connections to Estonia, Sweden and St. Petersburg, Russia, and visitors often plan a one- or two-day excursion, using Helsinki as home base. But if you prefer to explore more of Finland, I recommend an excursion to Porvoo instead. A convenient hour’s drive east from Helsinki, Porvoo is Finland’s secondoldest town, history-rich with ancient red, wooden storehouses that line the river and testify to the city’s heyday as a major port for merchant ships plying the world’s oceans. High on a hill sits Porvoo’s most recognizable landmark—the Luthern Cathedral—which has dominated the town since the early 1400s. Stroll through Old Town, built on a dense labyrinth of narrow
If You Go... Finnish Tourist Board www.visitfinland.com Helsinki Tourism www.visithelsinki.fi/In_English/ Visitor.iw3 Porvoo City Tourism tourism.porvoo.fi/en Turku Tourism www.turku.fi Fiskars Village www.fiskarsvillage.fi
Houses in Old Porvoo. PHOTO COURTESY PORVOO CITY TOURIST OFFICE.
Touring Turku. PHOTO COURTESY CITY OF TURKU.
Where to Stay Sokos Hotels (Helsinki and Turku) www.sokoshotels.fi/en Haikko Manor (Porvoo) www.haikko.fi www.haikko.ru/en/hotelinformation.php Also recommended for dining.
Where to Eat
Touring Turku. PHOTO COURTESY CITY OF TURKU.
cobblestone streets and alleyways and lined with colorful cottages, galleries and boutiques. Explore the Porvoo Museum with exhibits on the town’s history, including artifacts and art. A recent exhibit focused on Porvoo’s prehistoric times and the Middle Ages. Holm House, a part of the museum, was built in 1763 and offers an opportunity to see how a wealthy merchant family lived at the end of the 18th century. Porvoo is known for its sweets, so naturally we couldn’t leave without savoring some. Locals recommended The Little Chocolate Factory on Church Square. True to its name, the shop was so tiny we were barely able to fit through the door. Let that deter us? I think not. We were rewarded with rich and sumptuous chocolates, a treat I’d squeeze through that door for again in a heartbeat! TOOLING AROUND TURKU TOWN In the opposite direction and less than two hours west of Helsinki is the medieval city of Turku, which has played a vital role in Finnish history— it’s the oldest city in the country and the first capital of Finland. Founded in 1229, Turku is situated in the southwest region, in an area first inhabited 8,500 years ago. Fast forward to modern times: Turku is the European Capital of Culture in 2011, TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / 11.2 SEPT
together with Tallinn in Estonia. Turku, with its pristine countryside and nearby fabulous archipelago, provides lush and imposing sights to behold. The area is famous for its manor houses where historical figures lived and reigned, surrounded by lovely parks and gardens. Climb up Unikankare Hill to visit Turku Cathedral, the heart of the Lutheran Church in Finland and the country’s national shrine, completed at the end of the 13th century. How fortunate were we that, as we stood gazing at the intricate carvings in the ceiling, the cathedral’s famed 81-stop organ, built by the Finnish organ-building company extraordinaire Veiko Virtanen, began playing. Surrounded by so much imposing beauty and the soft, musing tones of this special organ, it seemed an authentic moment drawn from medieval times—and it was magic. On your way back to Helsinki, be sure to stop by Fiskars Village, founded in 1649 and today a center for Finnish art and design. It offers ongoing exhibits, events and a Christmas Market, and will complete your design discovery of Finland—at least for this visit. Barbara Barton Sloane is constantly globehopping to share with readers her unique experiences, from the exotic to the sublime.
Kosmos Restaurant (Helsinki) www.ravintolakosmos.fi Salutorget Restaurant (Helsinki) www.royalravintolat.com Olo Restaurant (Helsinki) www.olo-restaurant.com Vaakahuone (Turku) www.vaakahuone.fi www.vaakahuone.fi/uk/main
Where to Do Design Forum Finland (Helsinki) www.designforum.fi www.designforum.fi/ designforumfinland_en Ateneum Museum (Helsinki) www.ateneum.fi/en Suomenlinna (Helsinki) www.suomenlinna.fi/en Porvoo Museum (Porvoo) www.porvoonmuseo.fi www.porvoonmuseo.fi/ index.php?lang=ENGLISH Turku Cathedral www.turunseaurakunnat.fi www.turunseurakunnat.fi/ portal/en/turku_cathedral/
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A new Pompidou Centre museum increases the draw to this historic and already architecturally rich French city STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOANN GRECO
M
etz, France, a historic, mid-sized city halfway between Paris and the German border, has been blessed with an enviable array of attractions. Visitors in the know—mainly from elsewhere in France and its three border nations of Germany, Belgium and Luxembourg— have long come to explore the city’s Saint Etienne cathedral (one of the tallest in Europe), a pleasantly verdant riverside, distinctive yellow limestone Renaissance architecture, and lush parks and tree-lined boulevards. Last year, though, the city added one more must-see: the Centre Pompidou–Metz, a satellite branch of the Centre Pompidou, a Parisian mecca for aficionados of 20thcentury art, named for the former French President Georges Pompidou. Extending the museum’s reach, the
Since then, its history has seen the city flip-flopping between the two nations. In 1871, the Treaty of Frankfurt annexed it once again to Germany; a few decades later, courtesy of the Treaty of Versailles, it was returned to France in 1919, only to fall under German rule once again during World War II. The constant intertwining of cultures has lent a distinctly Teutonic touch to everything in Metz (roughly pronounced as “mess”), from its architecture to its food.
Metz branch offers a surefire route to putting this town of 125,000 squarely on the international tourist map.
the architect has said, takes its conical shape from a Chinese peasant’s hat, the building features a woven wood roof covered with a fiberglass and Teflon membrane. The museum’s gallery spaces are reserved for revolving exhibits, drawn from the institution’s collection, and there’s a lot here. Its opening exhibition, “Chefs d’Oeuvre? (Masterpieces?),” questioned the idea of canonical work—who decides which work is a masterpiece, and once decided, does that work stay a masterpiece forever? The artists on display—everyone from Miro to Picasso, from Duchamp to
METZ GOES MODERN The Centre Pompidou–Metz, though, is its own thing, and thoroughly modern. Opened in May 2010, this Shigeru Bandesigned outpost is itself a thoughtful and lofty work of art that pays homage to its host city and adds still more dramatic appeal to its skyline. An undulating structure that,
moderniz
HISTORIC METZ Wrapped between the arms of the Moselle and Seille rivers, Metz’s roots lie in Roman times, and it even has the baths to prove it. But, like much of Europe, the city reached its apogee during the Renaissance, when it flourished under the German flag. The city landed in French turf for the first time in the 17th century with the Peace of Westphalia treaties. TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / 11.2 SEPT
zing Metz
Metz Central Train Station.
Temple Neuf.
Dali—were familiar, but the works selected, and the manner in which they were juxtaposed, forced viewers to reconsider everything they know about these often over-exposed artists. Ultimately, however, it’s the building itself that may prove to be of the greatest interest, much like Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. The Centre Pompidou–Metz’s dynamic presence, so apparent from the outside, makes for a visibly exciting interior as well. Check out the spectacular second-story picture windows that frame a view of the rest of the city, in particular its beloved cathedral. DEVELOPMENT BY DESIGN Besides its function as a museum, the satellite is poised to accelerate development in a downtrodden section of Metz, literally on the wrong side of the tracks of the city’s magnificent train station. When Metz was selected as the site for the new museum, plans immediately went into effect to extend France's high-speed TGV line to the city. The new route beat the museum by more than two years, and significantly reduced travel times between Paris and Metz to fewer than 90 minutes. Plans also call for a mixed-use development project that will have residents living and working here and travelers
PHOTO COURTESY CENTRE POMPIDOU-METZ.
staying overnight at a promised hotel. For now, though, this area—formerly the home of a Roman amphitheater (the new neighborhood is, in fact, called the Amphitheater District), then fair grounds, and lately abandoned railroad tracks—remains a site of empty lots and bustling cranes. Pairing with the museum as the city’s standout at this end is the central train station, which links to the Pompidou via a new pedestrian bridge. The entry to the so-called Imperial District, intended to showcase the glories of the Reich, this crenulated Romanesque Revival structure of red stones lies at the heart of a fine example of town planning designed to ease military parade routes. It even features a clock tower supposedly designed by Kaiser Wilhelm, as well as a more modern addition: soaring lampposts crafted by the ubiquitous designer Philippe Starck. From this portal, it’s a short walk to one of the city’s other stellar offerings: the High Gothic Cathedral of St. Etienne, with its buttresses all a-flying and its stained glass a-glowing. Even the cathedral-weary will find it an amazing site. Created by joining two older churches, this soaring space offers the third-tallest nave in France and, by some counts, the greatest expanse of stained glass—including a few pieces crafted by Marc Chagall—on the entire continent.
PHOTO AND FOOD OPS On your way to lunch, meander along Metz’s riverside esplanade—there are some great photo ops from here of the Romanesque Temple Neuf, situated on a tiny island in the river. Then treat yourself to a Michelin-starred meal at Le Magasin aux Vivres, part of a hotel located inside the city’s 16th-century citadel. Also here: gardens, the arsenal, the Governor’s Palace and St. Pierre Aux Nonnains Abbey, one of the oldest churches in France and originally built as a Roman gymnasium before being converted to a Christian place of worship in the 7th century. For a late afternoon snack, indulge in some form of the Lorraine Valley’s signature fruit: the mirabelle, a kind of plum that in color and sweetness actually resembles an apricot. You’ll find its byproducts, from jams to tarts to wines, all over town in gift shops, gourmet food stores and in countless cafes. If you can, stick around until nightfall—which in the summer, arrives as late as 10 p.m.—to see why this city really shines. That’s when more than 10,000 floodlights cast their magic upon a host of treasures, staging a show for all of Metz’s golden ages and imbuing its celebrated yellow-limestone façades with a timeless glow.
If You Go Metz Tourism tourisme.mairie-metz.fr/en SNCF (France Rail) www.sncf.com/en_EN/flash/ Centre Pompidou–Metz www.centrepompidou-metz.fr Restaurant Le Magasin aux Vivre www.citadelle-metz.com/uk
ABOVE, LEFT: Historic architecture surrounds the modern in Metz.
JoAnn Greco is a freelance writer who has specialized in travel, arts and design, architecture and planning, and lifestyle since 1991. She has
ABOVE, RIGHT: The Centre Pompidou–
written for National Geographic Traveler, The Washington Post, Art &
Metz itself is a modern work of art.
Antiques, Conde Nast Portfolio.com, Newsday, Historic Traveler,
PHOTO COURTESY CENTRE POMPIDOU-METZ.
CNN.com, USA Today, and many others. She is from Philadelphia and can be reached at jphila@aol.com. TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / 11.2 SEPT
RIGHT: Typical Metz street.
* EXOTIC CRUISES FAMILY
Fit for Family Travel Take the kids on an extraordinary adventure to the Galapagos, Antarctica or Papua New Guinea By Lisa TE Sonne. All photos ©Lisa TE Sonne, WorldTouristBureau.com
Instead of watching the Animal Planet, Discovery or National Geographic channels on television, consider taking your family on an exotic cruise where real-life families can experience their own travel vignettes to re-play the rest of their lives. At first, family cruises and exotic cruises may not seem like the same animal, but if your kids love mammals (and birds and reptiles), and they want to text about adventures their friends have never done—give them, and yourself, a gift, by cruising comfortably to the unknown in a relatively known way. You can unpack everybody once for multiple adventures with other helpful adults preparing the meals, making the beds, taking the family photos, telling your kids to stay on the trails, making sure you don’t get lost, and helping you all have unforgettable, bonding times. Some large cruise ships are floating entertainment parks with fun climbing walls and water slides, but if you are looking for hands-on authentic experiences off the ship, there are smaller cruise ships that can take you to remote wildlife habitats and tribal villages.
“THE BOTTOM OF THE WORLD” FOR TOP TIMES: ANTARCTIC CRUISE Everyone in the family can have “happy feet” when you explore a penguin colony of thousands of blackand-white waddlers. Your eyes can be happy too as you spot albatross overhead, and whales, dolphins, leopard seals and crab-eater seals amidst the whites and blues of icebergs. Antarctica has never been inhabited by people, but Norways’ Hurtigruten cruises make the remote “White Continent” a comfortable place for people to have wildlife times.
On the line’s first cruise to Antarctica this year, a 13year-old passenger from New Jersey was telling a new friend onboard, “Well, every kid likes penguins, but it’s much better to see the real thing than stuffed animals.” For John Finch, a teacher from Maryland, the cruise proved a great way to spend quality time exploring the southern end of the world with his college-age daughters during their winter breaks before one headed off to MIT in Massachusetts and the other to the University of Southern California (USC). November to March is prime time to visit Antarctica and experience penguin nest building, chick hatching and “ecstasy” mating calls, as well as long daylight periods and warmer weather. It’s summer at the “bottom of the world” while it’s winter in the northern hemisphere,.
The Hurtigruten line has been navigating glaciers and icebergs since the 19th century along the fiords of Norway under the Northern Lights and above the Arctic Circle. Now it also has the stellar MS Fram (Norwegian for “forward”), which takes up to 400 passengers from South America hundreds of miles into the exploration outposts of Antarctica. Weather permitting, two shore expeditions per day provide memorable photo opportunities. Families who send a postcard from the southern-most post office in the world are also able to write about cruising inside a volcanic caldera, seeing tabular icebergs bigger than city blocks, yards of tempting international buffet food, intriguing lectures about maverick explorers and unique animal behavior, Orca whales spouting at sunset outside the ship’s sauna window,
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP, LEFT: Children can marvel at how close the wildlife can be. Penguins don't fly like most birds but use their wings like flippers underwater. A January sunset lingers at 11 p.m. at the bottom of the world.
11.2 SEPT / TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL
*
FAMILY
Ecoventura Cruises provide two shore expeditions a day to islands in the Galapagos that
visiting the international research station that first identified the hole in the ozone or laughing at two penguins sliding down a sloped iceberg. Your family can leave their various sized footprints of happy feet in the snow and take happy stories home.
range from hardened black
GO-GO GALAPAGOS
lava flows to
Go ahead, laugh together! There really are bluefooted booby birds. And giant tortoises with heads bigger than a human’s. And iguanas three feet long that will hold staring contests with you. Go ahead and say “Wow!” You might see a baby seal that was just born, its long eyelashes still wet. Or you might watch a young pelican try to swallow a fish that is way too big for it. Ecoventura’s “expedition yachts” offer great yearround, award-winning green cruises for Galapagos family travel. With only 20 passengers per cruise, you could invite the extended family or friends and have the entire boat to yourselves. The roughly 2-to1 passenger-to-crew ratio means you can have individual help getting in and out of the wetsuits that will keep you warm while you snorkel with colorful
paradisiacal white sands with clear waters for snorkeling just yards away from seals.
TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / 11.2 SEPT
fish, swimming iguanas, playful sea lions and, if you are lucky, the Galapagos’ penguins. If you don’t want to dunk in, you can kayak over clear waters, or sit on the beach and let other animals check on you. When you get back onboard the ship, there are snacks and drinks waiting—alcoholic and nonalcoholic. Shore trips to two different islands a day of this dramatic archipelago also provide memorable hikes, from easy to challenging. With the groups divided between two naturalists, you can have time to stop and watch wildlife fight and flirt, and wait for photographic gold. Beaches range from postcard-white sands, to volcanic tide pools and dramatic rocky contours. Since whaling and seal hunting stopped a century ago, the animals don’t think of humans as predators and are not frightened of two-legged creatures without wings. The islands are environmentally protected: you need to keep your distance from the mammals, birds and reptiles, and you need stay on the trails—unless, of course, the trails are blocked by wildlife, which is fairly frequent. For kids and parents, the Galapagos provide Dar-
If You Go Hurtigruten- Antarctica www.hurtigruten.us Ecoventura- Galapagos www.ecoventura.com Trans Niugini Tours- Papua New Guinea www.pngtours.com
winian evidence that those who can change, survive—not a bad life lesson for times when resiliency is needed. The naturalist guides can show you how the finch birds on various islands adapted differently to diverse ecosystems—their beaks ranging from short to long and curvy to straight, depending on the functional needs. With conservation in mind, the president of the family-run Ecoventura, Santiago Dunn, aims to have the Galapagos and the guests benefit from the unforgettable cruises.
PLAY IN PAPUA NEW GUINEA Splash! A young boy jumped from a tall tree into the river, then another boy and another boy. They had spotted the MV Sepik Spirit, a yacht-houseboat operated by Trans Niugini Tours that takes visitors through the jungles of Papua New Guinea from tribal village to village along the shores of the Sepik and Karawari rivers. As soon as the visiting powerboat was spotted, boys and girls also started paddling narrow dugout canoes from shore to the wider part of the river ahead. The kids hoped the large boat would play
with them—and it did. It speeded up and did 360degree turns to create fantastic wakes for the kids to bob up and down and up and over laughing and waving at the passengers. The Sepik Spirit is beautifully decorated with striking local art and icons and is well staffed by people from different villages. It offers hot showers, hot food, comfortable accommodations and electrical outlets, but once on shore it may feel like time travel to the kids. There are no televisions or computers. Many of the women go topless, and little boys run naked in the tropical heat. Head-hunting still existed a couple generations ago. Running water is usually the river. Papua New Guinea offers some of the more remote and diverse cultures of the world, with rich traditions and more than 600 languages still spoken. Your kids can see children who paint their faces as part of a traditional ceremony, not just for play; who have birds perched on their shoulders; who make taro to eat and swing machetes to clear paths. Passengers can climb ladders into “spirit houses” where locals dress up in bones, shells, feathers and
ABOVE, LEFT: Author Lisa TE Sonne visits the Giant Tortoises of the Galapagos Islands.
ABOVE: Red footed boobies in the Galapagos gather leaves for a mate’s nest the way some penguins gather rocks.
11.2 SEPT / TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL
*
FAMILY
ABOVE, RIGHT: In other cultures, houses of worship, boat paddles, and even ears can be different. A “Spirit house” is seen in the background.
RIGHT: Cruising the rivers of Papua New Guinea includes visiting villages along the river banks, and seeing how
body paint to perform demonstration dances and display museum-like carvings they’ve made of masks, drums and shields. An accompanying guide translates when English isn’t spoken, so go ahead and ask about the initiation ceremonies some teenagers go through, and discuss the prices of handmade art to take home. “It’s a truly amazing experience,” says Lynn O’Rourke Hayes, a mom adventurer and editor of FamilyTravel.com. Recalling her time in 2010 on the river cruise, she highly recommends Papua New Guinea for family travel: “Any parent who has the opportunity to share this adventure with their children is offering a gift that may not exist much longer. For today, the people, especially the children, seem untouched by the vices of the outside world. It is a beautiful thing to see and share as a family.”
children live in different cultures.
Lisa TE Sonne, an award-winning writer, photographer, filmmaker, television and record producer, has traveled all seven continents and many of the world's seas. Her book Everything 101 will be in Barnes & Noble stores in summer 2011 and available as an e-book. She co-founded www.GivingCertificates.org and created www.WorldTouristBureau.com.
TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / 11.2 SEPT
*
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Waltzing Australia
Boston Baby: A Field Guide for Urban Parents
Cynthia Clampitt
Peter I. Rose
The awardwinning travel narrative which recounts the author's six-month, 20,000-mile journey around and across the land Down Under, offers a vivid portrayal of Australia, its history and legends, its wonders, its people, and its enduring beauty. Price: $19.99 Available at: www.amazon.com
Kim Foley MacKinnon
A collection of forty-eight engaging commentaries written by the sociologist, photographer, and prize-winning travel journalist Peter Rose. It offers intriguing portraits of places and people from Cape Cod to Cape Horn. Price: $20.95 Available at: www.amazon.com
Baseball Bits The Best Stories, Facts, and Trivia from the Dugout to the Outfield Dan Schlossberg Facts, stories, and anecdotes about legendary players and managers, teams and games to remember, and everything from spring training to winter dealing. Casual fans and hardcore baseball buffs will enjoy. Price: $14.95 Available at: www.baseballbits.com
Horsing Around in New Jersey: The Horse Lover's Guide to Everything Equine Arline Zatz The first guidebook to everything equine in the Garden State, this book is for horse lovers— from the novice who yearns to go horseback riding but doesn't know how or where to begin, to the experienced equestrian seeking new trails, campsites, and challenges. Price: $19.95 Available at: www.funtravels.com
Lost Angel Walkabout: One Traveler’s Tales
This diaper-sized volume is jam packed with valuable resources and information that all Boston parents need, with hot tips from parenting experts and essential details on museums, theaters, classes, and play spaces. Price: $17.95 Available at: www.unionparkpress.com
Paris Revisited: The Guide for the Return Traveler
Linda Ballou One Traveler's Tales is a spirited collection of travel narratives recounting the haps, mishaps, and serendipitous adventures that have given travel writer Linda Ballou her sense of wonder and delight. Price: $14.95 Available at: www.lindaballouauthor.com
Gary Lee Kraut A true insider's guide intended for those who enjoy fine informative travel writing, whether returning to Paris, looking to get it right the first time, or savoring Francophile fantasies from home. Price: $18.95 Available at: www.amazon.com
Promote Your Book in the TravelWorld International Book Store! Now you can promote your book in the TWI Book Store. Let fellow travelers and readers worldwide know what you’ve published.
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11.2 SEPT / TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL
* TOP 10 TIPS FAMILY TRAVEL SENIOR TRAVEL
For Senior Travel Deals Vacation savings can be found with discounts from airlines to attractions, you just have to know where to look for them
While traveling recently, I spotted a silver-haired man wearing a T-shirt printed with the phrase, “Where’s my senior discount?” The fact is, he may well have saved money on his accommodations, because hotels are among countless travel vendors that cater to seniors with special deals. Bargain prices also are available on everything from hotels and car rentals to museums and concerts. And while senior discounts on airlines are pretty much a thing of the past, there are strategies for those with time and perseverance that can lead to airfare savings, among other discounts. Here’s a brief checklist of tips for finding bargains the next time you’re planning a trip. Often, all you have to do to get a senior discount is ask. And if you’re told to prove your age, consider that a compliment!
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Shop early and often. Airfares change frequently, so keep checking with discount ticket websites and airlines that cater to your destination.
Consider a near miss. It’s sometimes cheaper to fly to a city relatively near your final destination, then rent a car and drive to your final destination. Check consolidators. They’re companies that buy surplus tickets from airlines and offer them at bargain-basement prices.
Stick to the roads. Founded in 1914, Greyhound Lines serves more than 2,300 destinations across North America. With the high price of gas, let-
TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / 11.2 SEPT
ting someone else do the driving may make sense— and save you dollars. Passengers aged 62 and older receive a 5 percent discount off tickets. Greyhound’s Discovery Pass can be a good deal for extended travel too: Seniors pay $246 for a seven-day pass good for unlimited travel, and $356 for a 15-day pass. You can cover a lot of ground in those time frames.
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Ride the rails. Special reduced rates also are available for seniors who prefer the clicketyclack of train wheels. Amtrak travelers aged 62 and up are eligible to receive a 15 percent discount on the lowest available fares. You can ride the rails at reduced rates in other countries as well. Senior passes in Great Britain cost $225 for four consecutive days of travel, and $485 for 15 days. Another way to save money is taking an overnight train so you don’t have to book a hotel room for that night.
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Pick your dates. Because you’re no longer at the mercy of school vacations, you can avoid the most crowded—and expensive—times to travel. Off-peak seasons offer the best bargains (such as Miami in the middle of summer as opposed to the popular winter snowbird season). Shoulder seasons, those times just before and after peak seasons, are good for deals too.
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Check with tourist offices. City and state tourist offices in both the United States and other countries are a good source of up-todate information about discounts for older travelers. They also can provide other money-saving tips, like when museums offer their free days.
PHOTO: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM
By Victor Block
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Clubs have clout. Because they book so many hotel rooms, rental cars, cruise staterooms and other travel-related services, clubs can offer their members savings. Most people are familiar with the American Automobile Association (AAA) and American Association of Retired Persons, now known simply as AARP, but other organizations also can save travelers much more than the cost of membership. The Association of Mature American Citizens (AMAC), which calls itself “the conservative alternative to AARP,” offers discounts on hotels, car rentals and other services.
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Hotels are for sleeping. Many of the major hotel chains offer a senior discount (from 5 to 20 percent, usually), but often membership in AARP or another club is required. If a discount isn’t advertised, ask for one. If they say no, you’ve lost nothing. Also, it’s wonderful to stay in a five-star hotel with a full range of upscale amenities. But let’s face it, hotels primarily are places to sleep. By staying at a city hotel without a swimming pool or other extras you might not use, or at one that is located a bit out of the way, you may be able to save big bucks. If you’re planning a beach vacation, you can stretch your travel dollars by staying in a hotel or room that doesn’t have an ocean
view. As a classic comedian quote goes, “You can swim in the ocean free, but if you want a room that overlooks it, it may cost you an extra $100 a night.”
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BritRail and France's SCNF offer senior discounts on
Swap your house. Several clubs and services help people trade their home or apartment with folks who would like to vacation where they live. The result: free accommodations, use of a kitchen to prepare meals and other cost savings. In addition, because you’ll be living in someone’s home or apartment rather than a hotel, you can experience life in the destination as the locals do. Among established home exchange companies are Homeforexchange.com and International Home Exchange Network.
certain types of rail passes.
However and wherever you plan to travel, remember the advice printed on that T-shirt. When it comes to discounts for seniors: Ask and you may receive. After all, age does have its privileges. Victor Block, an award-winning travel journalist, has had stories published in major national magazines and newspapers for longer than he likes to admit. He is a guidebook author whose love of travel around the country and the world, and reporting on his experiences, is as strong as ever. 11.2 SEPT / TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL
*
FAMILY TRAVELINFORMATION DESTINATION SAN JUAN ISLANDS, WASHINGTON
ALBANY, NEW YORK
QUÉBEC CITY
World-renowned for sea kayaking, orca whale watching and a thriving arts scene, the San Juans are just a 30-45 minute scenic flight from Seattle or a ferry cruise through an archipelago. They enjoy a climate unique in the Pacific Northwest, with about half the rain of its neighbors. Growing trends include culinary tourism and multiexperiential tours. VisitSanJuans.com
Come discover Albany; New York’s historic Capital City on the banks of the mighty Hudson River! Albany has enticed visitors for 400 years with historic sites, fabulous attractions, family friendly amenities and entertaining events. World-class museums, unique galleries, stunning architecture, delicious cuisine and welcoming accommodations ensure your experience is legendary. Albany.org
Old-Québec tells of its 400 years of history through its narrow winding streets. With French notes in the air, one feels transported into a European feel. Bistros serve “Café au lait” and boutiques offer local artisans work of art. The unparalleled quality of restaurants put Québec on a pedestal for exquisite cuisine. Outdoor enthusiasts are impressed with the variety of activities available. QuebecRegion.com
ALASKA Sitka Convention and Visitors Bureau 907-747-5940 www.sitka.org
ARKANSAS Fort Smith Convention & Visitors Bureau (479) 783-8888 www.fortsmith.org
Little Rock Convention & Visitors Bureau 800-844-4781 www.littlerock.com
ARIZONA Greater Phoenix Convention & Visitors Bureau 602-452-6250 www.visitphoenix.com
CALIFORNIA Big Bear Lake Resort Association 909-866-6190 www.bigbear.com
Long Beach Area Convention & Visitors Bureau
Palm Springs 760-322-8425 www.VisitPalmSprings.com
San Mateo County/Silicon Valley Convention and Visitors Bureau 800-288-4748 www.visitsanmateocounty.com
KENTUCKY Buffalo Trace Distillery 800-654-8471 www.buffalotrace.com
Bowling Green Area Convention & Visitors Bureau 1-800-326-7465 www.visitbgky.com
COLORADO Glenwood Springs
TOUR SEKY
970.945.6589 www.glenwoodchamber.com
606-677-6142 www.tourseky.com
FLORIDA Visit St. Pete/Clearwater
LOUISIANA Shreveport-Bossier Convention & Tourist Bureau
727-464-7379 www.VisitStPeteClearwater.com
800-551-8682 www.Shreveport-Bossier.org
St. Augustine and Ponte Vedra 904.829.1711 www.FloridasHistoricCoast.com
ILLINOIS City of Chicago 312-744-2390 www.explorechicago.org
MICHIGAN Greater Lansing Convention & Visitors Bureau 517-377-1423 www.lansing.org
NEVADA Destination Henderson Nevada
562-495-8345 www.visitlongbeach.com
INDIANA Brown County Convention & Visitors Bureau
Napa Valley Wine Train
800.753.3255 www.browncounty.com
Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority
Oliver Winery
702.318.4255 www.visitlasvegas.com
812-876-5800 www.oliverwinery.com
Nevada Commission on Tourism
707-253-2160 www.winetrain.com
Pasadena Convention & Visitors Bureau 626-395-0211 www.VisitPasadena.com TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / 11.2 SEPT
702-267-2171 www.visithenderson.com
775-687-0616 www.TravelNevada.com
BOWLING GREEN, KENTUCKY
OKLAHOMA
FORT SMITH, ARKANSAS
In the heart of Southern Kentucky, Bowling Green is a bustling city treasuring its smalltown heritage. Rev up your sense of adventure at the National Corvette Museum or discover more than sweets at the Duncan Hines Exhibit. Exciting roller coasters, raceways and an underground boat tour are blended with the charm of nearly 100 historic register listings and family-fun farms. visitbgky.com
In Oklahoma, you’ll find hospitality around every corner. We’re situated at the crossroads of the nation, where Southern hospitality goes hand-in-hand with solid Midwestern values; where the don’t-quit attitude of the Old West combines with a sophistication you would expect only in big cities back East. We are a one-of-a-kind state with something for everyone. Discover the nation's most diverse terrain and the ultimate in outdoor adventures. www.travelok.org
Fort Smith was a town on the edge of the nation in the late 1800's; the last stop at civilization before entering Indian Territory (now Oklahoma) and the lawlessness that lay ahead. Today, Fort Smith embraces and celebrates its Wild West heritage and preserves the memories of those rough 'n tumble times. www.fortsmith.org
NEW BRUNSWICK, CANADA New Brunswick Parks & Recreation (506) 444-5122 www.gnb.ca
Lake Erie Shores & Islands 800-255-3743 www.SHORESandISLANDS.com
Valley Forge Convention & Visitors Bureau (610) 834-7990 www.valleyforge.org
Positively Cleveland New Brunswick Tourism & Parks 1-800-561-0123 www.tourismnewbrunswick.ca
NEW YORK Albany, An Amazing Discovery
216.875.6617 www.positivelycleveland.com
Tuscarawas County Convention & Visitors Bureau
QUÉBEC, CANADA Québec City and Area 418-641-6654 www.quebecregion.com
330-602-2420 www.ohiotimelessadventures.com
RHODE ISLAND The Newport & Bristol County Convention & Visitors Bureau
Niagara Tourism & Convention Corporation
OKLAHOMA Oklahoma City Convention & Visitors Bureau
1-800-976-5122 www.GoNewport.com
716-282-8992 www.niagara-usa.com
405-297-8905 www.visitokc.com
South County Tourism Council
Saratoga County Chamber of Commerce
Oklahoma Tourism & Recreation Dept.
800-258-3582 www.albany.org
800.548.4662 www.southcountyri.com
518-584-3255 www.Saratoga.org
405-230-8402 www.travelok.com
TENNESEE Cherohala Skyway National Scenic Byway
Ulster County Tourism
ONTARIO, CANADA Tourism Toronto
423-442-9147 www.cherohala.org
845-340-3568 www.ulstercountyalive.com
NORTH CAROLINA Outer Banks Visitors Bureau 877-629-4386 www.outerbanks.org
OHIO Greater Licking County Covention and Visitors Bureau 740.345.8224 www.escapetolickingcounty.com
416-987-1739 www.SeeTorontoNow.com
OREGON Lincoln City Visitor and Convention Bureau 541-996-1271 www.oregoncoast.org
PENNSYLVANIA Delaware County's Brandywine Conference & Visitors Bureau
VIRGINIA Virginia Beach Convention & Visitors Bureau 757-385-6645 www.vbfun.com
WASHINGTON San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau 360-378-6822 www.VisitSanJuans.com
610-565-3679 www.brandywinecountry.org 11.2 SEPT / TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL