The
northern tier A PUBLICATION OF THE MINNESOTA GRAPE GROWERS ASSOCIATION
VITICULTURE: IDEAS TO MIND FOR YOUR VINES AND WINES
M ARKETING: COLLABOR ATION IS K EY
SUMMER 2013
PLUS: COLD CLIMATE CONFERENCE ROUNDUP, ENOLOGY ADVICE, 2014 CONFERENCE DATES, A TASTY FOOD/WINE PAIRING, AND MORE The Northern Tier | Summer 2013
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KDL
Help ensure your grape crop makes great wine.
ÂŽ
polymeric anthocyanins
gallic acid 200%
catechin 150%
monomeric anthocyanins
epicatechin
100%
50%
0%
polymeric phenols
malvidin
quercetin aglycone
caftaric acid
quercetin glycosides
KDL Nutrient Program Control #7 Control #8
KDL’s unique formulation links potassium to a sugar complex that can quickly penetrate plant tissue – encouraging sugar development in the leaf and transport into the fruit. Even when tissue analysis shows adequate K levels, KDL provides a rapid increase in brix that also encourages color development and phenolics. KDL also improves uniform maturity helping to minimize harvesting passes.
caffeic acid
To ďŹ nd out how KDL can be a part of your comprehensive science-based nutrition program, call 800-328-2418, visit www. agro-k.com, or email info@agro-k.com.
KDL Nutrient Program Average of Controls 7 & 8
PINOT NOIR
Properly timed applications of Agro-K’s KDLŽ 0-0-24, can dramatically enhance brix, color development, and uniform maturity in all grapes. Increasing brix and color can improve juice phenolic compound levels resulting in measurable increased wine quality.
!" # $ #
% & '( ) 93.8
Brix
JUICE *
%K
25.2
3.48
0.066
90.0 93.0
23.5 23.9
3.45 3.50
0.073 0.072
1) Fully replicated trial conducted by Hale Agricultural Services, Santa Maria CA Trial location Kendall Jackson Vineyards, Santa Maria, CA 2) Juice data generated from replicated samples by Dr. Ken Fugelsang, Dept of Enology and Viticulture, Fresno State Univ.
AGRO-K CORPORATION
Science-Driven Nutrition SM
The
Northern Tier
Summer 2013
CONTENTS 4
Letter from the Editor
5
Letter from the Conference Director
6
In the Lunch Line: Cold Climate Conference General Roundup
10
Scenes from the Trade Show
12
VITICULTURE: Ideas to mind for your vines and wines
16
ENOLOGY: Making Microbes Miserable
18
On the MarQ: A Tasty Wine/Food Pairing
22
Vineyard & Winery Directory
24
Elmer Swenson Scholarship: Update
ON THE COVER: A beautiful sign of spring – although a late one – at a Minnesota vineyard: a bud break of the La Crescent grape. Photo by SFA Photo Design
Publisher | Jennifer Sorenson Conference Director | Teresa Savaryn Editor | Susan Thurston
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Wine Competition: Call for Entries
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MARKETING: Collaboration is Key
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Save the Date: Plan now for the 2014 Cold Climate Conference
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2013 Wine Stroll
MGGA Event Coordinator | Missy Machkhashvili Graphic Designer | Mike Gears The Northern Tier publishes annually in the fall and spring/summer by the Minnesota Grape Growers Association and Southwest Newspapers. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior consent of the Cold Climate Conference or Southwest Newspapers, 952-445-3333, P.O. Box 8, Shakopee, MN. 55379.
CONTACTS: Advertising: Jeanne Reiland 952-345-6478 jreiland@swpub.com Lisa Kalkes 952-345-6683 lkalkes@swpub,com Subscription and address changes: Missy Machkhashvili missy@mngrapes.org
Central Lakes College partners with the Viticulture and Enology Science and Technology Alliance, (VESTA) to offer online classes taught by industry leaders. Students gain hands-on practical experiences through mentoring with local vineyards and wineries. VESTA is a partnership of Universities, Two-year Colleges, State Agricultural Agencies, Vineyards, and Wineries in 19 States. Visit us online at www.vesta-usa.org for more details. Central Lakes College students can achieve an Associate of Applied Science Degree or Technical Certificate with online general education courses to complement VESTA technical courses. Also provided to our students is help in receiving financial assistance and finding mentors through the local Minnesota vineyards and wineries. A vineyard, pilot winery, and laboratory, used for workshops and on-site classes, are located at the Central Lakes College Ag and Energy Center in Staples, MN. For more information or questions contact Dennis: demsliedrummond@clcmn.edu
The Northern Tier | Summer 2013
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LETTER from the
EDITOR
View from the Northern Tier Yesterday, it snowed. And the day before that. And the day before that. A few teasing days of spring-like weather were tossed in to taunt us, but truly, even for this winter lover, this has felt like a season of relentless snow. As I am writing this, it is hard to imagine that by the time this second issue of Northern Tier is in your hands, the vines will be trimmed, the new pale end leaves will be green, and the season of hope and anticipation will be more than just upon us, we will be in its midst. I’ll let the climatologist predict what sort of summer will follow this generous winter of snow and spring of equally abundant drenching. We can only prognosticate about what this weather will mean for this year’s vintage. Although we don’t know what the growing season will bring, we can say with certainty we’ll do all we can to make the best of what is offered.
Susan Thurston
I will make one prediction: Along with increased range of weather, wines made from cold climate grapes are gaining attention. Newspapers and magazines across the country are featuring with increasing frequency our vineyard keepers and wine makers. Most recently, Coyote Moon’s Kristina Randazzo-Ives, Cornell University’s Tim Martinson, and University of Minnesota’s Peter Hemstad were featured on North Country Public Radio about the strides and gains being made with cold climate grape varieties, and especially the potential for Frontenac Blanc. So although we don’t know what the weather will bring, we do know that if we take what we learned at this past Cold Climate Conference (CCC), and focus on lessons learned in past growing seasons, our grapes and wines will continue to claim more prominence in the media, on the shelves of our wine sellers, and at the tables of creative and forward-thinking chefs who know a fabulous wine when they taste it. So as you begin to look forward to your growing season, savor the articles and features included in this second issue of The Northern Tier. You’ll find reports from some of the key sessions on enology, marketing, and viticulture. There are photos from the conference, and a few highlights from the perspective of one of our most attentive attendees, Scott Ellenbecker. You’ll also enjoy an article about the Minnesota Grown Project, results of the Elmer Swenson Scholarship competition, information about the International Cold Climate Wine Competition, an introduction to the coming year’s CCC chairperson, and highlights of the CCC 2014 “Connect. Cultivate. Create.” And don’t miss the extra bonus of Teresa Savaryn’s take on Marquette wine and her recipe on how to use it to create an unforgettable pork loin perfect for this summer, before the harvest and crush season is upon us. We cannot be certain about the weather or about this year’s yield. But we can be certain about how our hard work and belief in the potential of cold climate grapes is beginning to pay off. Here’s to a memorable spring! O
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The Northern Tier | Summer 2013
LETTER from the
The promise of spring
DIRECTOR
That’s it. I am getting older. I knew it. Yesterday’s misty morning walk through our vineyard gave me a sneaky kind of joy that I knew something the rest of the world didn’t. I observed our vines budding out the most precious tiny pink grape clusters and witnessed tender leaves uncurling before my soft focus eyes. It was a long winter put to rest in a few glorious minutes. This issue of the Northern Tier will highlight the events of the last Cold Climate Conference and give you the “promise of spring” for our grape and wine industry. The spring season means work, cleaning up, and reorganizing your surroundings. This year my work for the Minnesota Grape Growers Association is fi lled with new arrangements and promises, too. We have elected a talented and competent board of directors energized and ready to work. After chairing the conference for three consecutive years, I am happy to report that Steve Unverzagt, the new Cold Climate Conference Chairperson, will be adding his experience and leadership to a well-seasoned committee. I appreciate his enthusiasm and we will be working closely over the next few months to complete the transition. I plan to remain on the CCC committee as Conference Director, which plays into my new role as Marketing Committee Chair. These two committees overlap quite a bit and we are going to bring you the most outstanding Cold Climate Conference in 2014. We are working with the City of St. Paul, local restaurants, and the media to really bring attention to the cold climate grape and wine industry for the four-day event, February 20 -23, 2014. We are strengthening our relationship with the Minnesota Grown Program of the Minnesota Department of Agriculture. They have provided sponsorship to our publications and events, such as the brochure “Wine Tour of Minnesota” and also the Cold Climate Conference. Minnesota Grown has agreed to sponsor several exciting marketing ideas in the works. A Passport to Minnesota Wineries has been designed and launched, and could be in effect as early as July 1. Please look in this issue on page 31 to fi nd out what that is all about! Anyone who knows me well would tell you my real passion is with food and wine. On page 18, I have created a recipe using Minnesota Grown products to pair with our Marquette wine. This summer I will be contacting all of Minnesota’s wineries to create a winery directory/ food pairing cookbook, which, I hope, can be published by the holiday season. I look forward to visiting every winery and telling their story.
Teresa J. Savaryn “I enjoy the spring more than the autumn now. One does, I think, as one gets older.” Virginia Woolf, Jacob’s Room
This is a great time for us in this Northern Tier. Hardy vines, hearty wines! Salut!
O
Meet Steve Unverzagt Steve is bringing a diverse background to the MGGA Board. With more than 30 years of experience at major ad agencies and marketing firms in the Twin Cities, including Rollerblade in the early years and the national launch of the DirecTV satellite service, he is well-versed in the development of new products and promotions to early adopters. He’s been interested in wine and vineyards for decades, taking time to visit scores of wineries in California, Oregon, France, Switzerland, and Italy. After taking the U of MN “Vines to Wines” Horticulture
class, Steve volunteered at the Horticulture Research Center to learn viticulture best practices from John Thull and Peter Hemstad. He has worked at several local vineyards and wineries -- planting, pruning, spraying, installing trellis, harvesting, bottling, and also training vineyard workers and working at public wine events. He is currently Assistant Vineyard Manager at St Croix Vineyards in Stillwater and at Seven Vines in Dellwood, and a Vineyard Consultant on a 30-yearold vineyard restoration project in Rosemount. He’s looking forward to helping the Minnesota wine industry expand over the next several years. O
The Northern Tier | Summer 2013
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FOCUS on the CONFERENCE
Viticulture track at the CCC was brimming with eager students to bring their growing techniques to the next level.
In the Lunch Line: Highlights from the Cold Climate Conference by Scott Ellenbecker
S
ince 2007 I’ve attended the Minnesota Grape Growers Cold Climate Conference (CCC). I remember that first year, standing in the lunch line and chatting with folks. I was a bit over my head that year, learning only a few months before that grape vines can actually grow in Minnesota.
Back in the lunch line talking to others newly introduced to grapes, you know who you are, I was telling you we were planting four acres that fi rst year and you thought we were crazy. There was no session on that weekend’s
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The Northern Tier | Summer 2013
agenda that said: “Attend this session and learn how to start a commercial vineyard in one season.” Many of those first lunch-line contacts are still growing vines and have become friends. It’s good to get together every year to discuss what’s changed and how we are doing things differently. That first year many of us newbies were worried about the same things: how to plant, prune, fertilize – and will this pay off financially. We had so many questions. But like life, with grape vines one learns that what you know today may change.
I was talking this year to an expert I’d met in 2007 and we agreed that what you try today may be wrong tomorrow or at least more information will give you a different way to think. I remember visiting California a couple years ago and talking to a grower about vine lifecycles. That vineyard manager was telling me he was replanting vines on a slightly different angle so the sun hit the vines at a slightly different angle. Can you imagine ripping out acres of vines so the sun hits the rows a little differently?
For those who couldn’t make it for some reason to the CCC, let me fi ll you in on a few things I learned. Ozone was a hot topic at the preshow conference and the trade show booth area. Although the learning curve is still going up, Ozone was discussed as a way to control pests in the vineyard as well as the winery. Ernie Wilmink, of AgriOzein LLC, was selling his ozone technology to kill everything from fungus to mosquitoes. I saw Ernie as he was leaving and he told me he sold several machines over the weekend. So I know many of you liked the possibility of cutting your chemical costs with Ozone.
Anna Katharine Mansfield, Assistant Professor of Enology at NYSAES Cornell University, presented two sessions during the 2013 CCC on Yeast Selection and Tannin Use.
But for the majority who will continue to spray chemicals, the seminars, as well as the exhibits displaying new sprayers, were helpful. From my fi rst years when the list of chemicals was put on the screen and I couldn’t tell the difference between what would help or kill my vines, I’ve come a long way. I’m sure many are the same. The CCC classes help with the annual update on new and discontinued chemicals, pesticide and herbicides. A staple in my vineyard for controlling weeds has been Rely. The workshop taught me this product is off the market. The lunch line talk after taught me there is a replacement chemical out there that is the same thing, just not labeled “approved” for grapes. You will have to get with your spray expert and ask for details. The fun events were a great hit again this year. From the Wine Stroll to the Gala to the Wine Shine “sharing event” at the rooftop lounge, there were many chances to taste the fruits of our labor.
Missy Machkhashvili, left, CCC Conference Coordinator, and Maureen Maloney, of Cannon River Winery, enjoy the 2013 Midwest Wine Stroll.
continued on page 8
The Northern Tier | Summer 2013 Th
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Drew Horton, Wine Maker, center, and Rachel Mueller, Vineyard Manager of Chankaska Creek Ranch and Winery of Kasota, Minn., left, offer samples of their wines to Dr. Gary Gardner, University of Minnesota Professor in the Department of Horticultural Science and a member of MGGA’s Board of Directors. I remember the fi rst year there. I said to my wife, “there is no way I’d ever plant [that certain varietal]” because I didn’t like even one of the wines. (Yes, I remember the varietal, but being critical today wouldn’t matter, and more importantly, it could taint your opinion of this grape.) This year, I had so many of wines from that grape varietal that were great from desserts, to rose’, to blends and stand-alone dry wines that I was wishing I had more space to plant vines! The point is the winemakers are really doing great things with locally grown fruit. A few weeks ago I was in Sonoma at a barrel tasting event. I heard the winemaker telling someone he was still
learning how to work with a grape from a certain vineyard. And that was a wellestablished varietal! The industry is adapting, and so are the customers’ tastes. Because people know me as the “local grape guy,” I can’t get out of the municipal liquor store without someone asking for recommendations. I’m sure, like you, I tell them, what I like may not be what you like. I advise them to “go local and develop your taste.” Chances are my neighbors are just like yours and will find our grapes are very comparable to a German Gewürz or California rose’ or even Oregonian Pinot.
I have walked people over to the Minnesota section and discussed your wines. Something I don’t think I could do as well without the “wine stroll” experience. This is an event that can only get better for the industry in years to come. Even though those events were great fun, and gave me so much opportunity to discuss the flavor of the moment, some of the best conversations happened – yes – at the bar and afterhours parties. That’s when we really talked details with friends, new and old. And when the wine flows, so do the ideas. I came away each day invigorated with the possibilities of the Minnesota – and cold climate – grape industry.
The CCC presented so many classes and events to attend this year. The growing base of ideas is definitely getting wider as the industry continues to grow.
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The Northern Tier | Summer 2013
There were my favorite classes too. I had the pleasure of sitting on a roundtable of growers and winemakers talking about communication and best practices. I think many people, even me, benefited from this open forum. I always learn at these exercises. There are so many opinions on how to do something I know one person doesn’t have all the answers. A good friend and I were talking later about grape vine spacing and we are second guessing the status quo on the 8 by 8 spacing. Maybe our outcome with tighter spacing would help ripening and the wine. Like those I met who are trying variations of trellising, we may fi nd a different way in the future. One workshop I found beneficial, but could have been longer, was the short roundtable discussions. We moved from table to table in ten-minute increments talking about issues that group was pre-assigned to discuss. This might be the beginning of a new and continuing format in the future. A plethora of issues from fi nancing to frost control were discussed. The CCC presented so many classes and events to attend this year. The growing base of ideas is defi nitely getting wider as the industry continues to grow.
Justin Osborne, Wine Maker at Four Daughters Vineyard and Winery, Spring Valley, Minn., was the recipient of the 2012 Governor’s Cup for the vineyard’s 2011 La Crescent.
This year I was the guy in the lunch line, except with the shoe on the other foot. I met a guy who was thinking of planting 30 acres. I was thinking to myself, “You’re crazy.” But I kept this thought to myself because I know people do it all the time in other parts of the world. Why should I think Minnesotans are any less capable than someone in Washington, California, or Ontario? Like most years, the CCC taught me a few big things, but mostly lots of little things. And the lessons learned in the lunch line, those things not on the weekend’s agenda, are the most beneficial. O
Vicky Vogt, left, owner of Four Daughters Vineyard and Winery, hugging daughter Shawn Vogt Sween.
The Northern Tier | Summer 2013
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SCENES from the TRADE SHOW
Timothy Tice of Label World, left, talking with Rick Pawelk of Luceline Orchard and Winery.
Ron Dalka of Weed Badger Division, talks with two conference attendees.
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The Northern Tier | Summer 2013
Conference goers stop to look at the products of vendor Brick Packaging.
Markus Blank, left, from Fairfield, Calif., demonstrates products from Euro-Machines, Inc.
The Northern Tier | Summer 2013
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FOCUS on VITICULTURE
Viticulture: Ideas to mind for your vines and wines
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The Northern Tier | Summer 2013
T
he interest in organic grape production and wine made with organically grown grapes continues to increase, so the information presented by Bryan Hed at the recent Cold Climate Conference (CCC) was of particular interest. A research technologist in the Penn State University Plant Pathology Department, Hed guided the grower through the long and careful process needed to become an organic grower, and discussed a number of concerns faced by organic and non-organic growers. He emphasized the grower must do the homework, from establishing a potential market, contacting a certifier, and connecting with the United States Department of Agriculture National Organic Program. When a grower makes the transition to organic, attention must be paid to key points, including: no prohibited materials for three years; a dedicated sprayer for organic pesticides only; an annotated clean-out of other equipment, including plows, mowers, and harvesters; maintaining the required buffer zone for the site; being a good neighbor, which includes presenting appropriate signage; and paying careful attention to soil and vine nutrition. With certification and inspection, there are costs and reimbursements, and the grower should consider the inspector an ally. The biggest challenges are weed control, low vine size and yield, black rot, GBM, and, especially, economic sustainability and profitability. Although Hed’s research is based on eastern organic viticulture, the components are universal, and all of them are dependent on one primary consideration: location. The site selection is key, and needs to be made upon considering air movement, drainage, humidity, sunlight, adjacent land use, proximity to water and woods, and soil composition. continued on page 15
Photos by Ben Banks, SFA Photography
The Northern Tier | Summer 2013
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5TH ANNUAL INTERNATIONAL COLD CLIMATE WINE COMPETITION calls for entries
All the world is a stage as wines made from grapes grown in cold climates around the globe are judged at the 5th Annual International Cold Climate Wine Competition (ICCWC) this August. The competition will take place Aug. 16 on the campus of the University of Minnesota, where several of the cold-hardy wine grapes were developed. This year’s competition includes categories for red, white, fortified, ice-wines, cold-hardy fruit/grape blends, and, new for 2013, a separate category for rosé wines made from the variety Frontenac. Judges participate in a blind tasting of the wines and award gold, silver and bronze medals, and best of show awards to the top red, white, and specialty wines. The annual “Governor’s Cup” is awarded to the favorite Minnesota wine of the internationally recognized wine experts on the judging panel. “The growth in popularity of cold hardy grapes and wine is a testament to the hard work and dedication of growers and winemakers,” said Ron Barnes, president of the Minnesota Grape Growers Association, the competition’s primary sponsor. “The International Cold Climate Wine Competition continues to help our industry strive to achieve greatness and builds consumer demand for wines made from these grapes.”
Contact:
To see a complete set of rules and to register, go to www.mngrapegrowers.com/competition
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Dr. Gary Gardner, ICCWC Chair
Gordon Rouse, Co-chair & Chief of Competition
1-612-624-3606
1-651-636-3039
The Northern Tier | Summer 2013
In the area of organic disease control, it is important to know the enemy and identify how it lives and thrives, and then minimize the conditions that support it. The list-topping concerns include powdery mildew, downy mildew (plasmopara viticola), phomopsis, black rot, and bunch rot (botrytis). Treatments and controls offer varied success. In summary, Hed underscored the importance of the site and that the grower not underestimate the natural air flow, amount of sunlight, risks of too much humidity, and the surroundings; to choose varieties with the greatest disease resistance; to reduce the sources of over-wintering inoculums, including fruit mummies, trellis cane lesions, infected material on the ground and old, dead wood; to reduce the amount of time the vines are wet and in humid conditions, especially during fruit-bearing stages; to maximize aeration and sun exposure; to control plant vigor and use proper techniques in trellising, fertilization and pruning; to be vigilant and scout the vineyard for trace signs of diseases and take care of it immediately; and to incorporate proactive applications of fungicide. O
Produce Gold Winning Wines
Frontenac gris grape (USPP 16,478) La Crescent grape (USPP 14,617)
Costs and labor need to be considered, with options including trellis mowing, propane flaming, and organic herbicides. Organic mulches can range from expensive synthetics to compost, including straw and wood chips, each with particular considerations. Hed recommended the value of deep rootstocks…and sheep (if a grower cares to take on a bit of animal husbandry).
COLD HARDY GRAPES
Hed encouraged growers to be proactive in all areas of organic production. With weed control, it’s important to target young weeds and to not let weeds go to seed, with vigilance during the critical time from bloom to veraison. Good weed control benefits are obvious: less competition for water and nutrients, fewer opportunities for plant viruses, less damage from too much humidity and wetness, improved air f low, and better fungicide coverage.
Marquette grape (USPP 19,579)
Cold climate growers can look forward to a future filled with cold hardy and disease resistant grapes that produce award-winning wines. Decades of University of Minnesota research has led to the development of wine grape cultivars that are setting the standard in cold climate viticulture. ‘Marquette’, ‘Frontenac gris’, and‘La Crescent’grape varieties are patented in the US and Plant Variety Rights are pending in Canada and other territories. Propagation of these varieties is prohibited without a license. To obtain a license, visit www.license.umn.edu and Search Keyword: Grape. Please purchase U of M grape varieties from Licensed Nurseries listed at www.grapes.umn.edu. Plus, see the rapidly growing list of exceptional medal winning wines, produced from U of M cold hardy grapes.
The University of Minnesota is committed to protecting its patented varieties and will enforce its rights against unlicensed propagators. The Northern Tier | Summer 2013
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FOCUS on ENOLOGY
Patricia Howe of Patricia Howe Wines in Napa, Calif., presented Winery Sanitation during Thursday afternoon’s Best Practices Workshop. She also was part of an “Ask the Expert” panel discussion and taught during Friday and Saturday Enology sessions, “Methods of Clarification and Microbial Stability” and “Wine Faults.”
Making T microbes miserable
he adage “good stuff in, good stuff out” is particularly appropriate in wine making. Winemakers strive to include only the best available components, but the fi ne science of making certain only the good parts are included offers ongoing challenges. If the challenges aren’t met, the wine is spoiled.
The fine art of keeping only the best parts
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The Northern thern ern Tier | Summer 2013
Patricia Howe, owner of 16019, perhaps the smallest free-standing bonded winery in the United States, focused one of her presentations at the recent conference on avoiding common wine spoilage due to microbes.
The winemaker can blame microbes for spoiling the wine by evidence such as cloudiness in the fi nished wine, spritziness, carbonation, and sediment. The taste can be vinegary (acetic acid), like nail polish remover (ethyl acetate), or bruised apples (acetaldehyde). Off aromas and flavors can be described as barnyard, Band-Aid, horsey, mousy, rat cage, acrolein bitterness, geranium-tone, butter, rotten eggs, garlic, onion, sour milk, cheese, sweaty socks, locker room, and fecal. Visual indicators include sediments, stringiness, ropiness, and cloudiness.
The primary spoilage microbes are: yeasts, including alcohol sensitive Kloeckera, Hansenula and Pichia/Hanseniaspora and alcohol tolerant, including Saccharomyces, Zygosaccharomyces, ces, Shizosaccharomyces, ekkera and Brettanomyces/Dekkera Candida; bacteria including r, AABs (Acetobacter, d Glyconobacter and r) Gluconacetobacter) and LABs (Oenoccus, Lactobacillus and Pediococcus); and bacillus and spores, which are not considered a wine organism, but may persist for a few days after bottled.
fi ltration options, including small Diatomaceous Earth (DE), plate and frames, lenticular, membrane and small cross flow units. To make microbes miserable, use chemical additives such as Lysozyme or SO2, or starve them.
Steve Borra’s GillCreekRanch Lodi, CA
To keep them out to b begin with, options i include GMPs and ssanitation, while ke keeping in mind that so some microbes must st stay, or it wouldn’t be wi wine.
To prevent microbial spoilage, the winemaker must remove the microbes, make them miserable, keep them out to begin with, and know what is in the wine.
Howe emphasized that chemical ch inhibition methods are not a substitute for sanitary wine making. There are not chemical additions that work well against high cell counts, and reducing cell counts through good practices and physical removal of cells can reduce the need for chemical additions.
Physical separation methods include settling, adsorption, and precipitation and fi ltration. For the small winery, there are many
It is vitally important to know what types and numbers of microbes are in the wine, and to understand wine chemistry. O
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FOCUS on FOOD/WINE PAIRING
On the MarQ Marquette wine presents an outstanding pairing on the table by Teresa Savaryn
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The Northern thern ern Tier | Summer mme 2013
S
ince its release in 2006 from the University of Minnesota’s Horticultural Research breeding program, the b Marquette grape has Ma created excitement with c creat the promise of developing th he pr into into an outstanding table wine w e grape gra in the land where wherre no one said “red.” wh Richard Leahy, east coast Rich cha ard L wine and consultant, win ne writer w writ proclaimed proccla aime after tasting trailss at the 2009 Cold a th Climate “I have Clim matte Conference, Co seen the land!” n th he promised p Six yea years y ears ssince its release, vineyards vin ney yard are now producing prrod ducin quality fruits and winemakers are nuancing win w nema the interesting taste he int
components of this cold hardy variety to acclaimed reviews. No need to look far, the Internet is full of positive comments from bloggers to serious wine critics and Marquette is showing up high in American wine competitions. The year 2012 was the fi rst in which our vineyard produced enough quality fruit for a full batch production. Estate grown grapes with regal purple hues that are often deeper than its Pinot Noir grandparent, our Marquette owns a lovely black cherry characteristic and subtle saddle leather bouquets with lean tannins.
Who is making Marquette? 1. Northern Vineyards -Stillwater MN ‘Downtown Red’ $12.95
Owned and operated by third generation grape growers, S & L Vineyards supplies bulk grapes, juices and wines to large and small wineries. Grown in Lodi/Woodbridge and the Sierra Foothills where the climate is warm and dry in the summers and cool and moist in the winters, our premium wine grapes are harvested at optimum brix levels, custom processed based on customer preference and placed in cold storage.
2. Post Town Winery - Rochester MN ‘Prairie Cougar’ $15.00 3. Indian Island Winery - Janesville, MN Marquette $15.95 4. Millner Heritage Winery - Kimball, MN ‘Neuhaus’ $11.95 and ‘Draga’ $15.95 5. Buffalo Rock Winery - Buffalo, MN ‘Marcus’ Marq’ 2011 MN Marquette $16.99 6. Leigh’s Garden Winery -Escanaba, MI ‘Ludington Street Blues’ 2012 Marquette $20.00 7. Saint Croix Vineyards - Stillwater, MN 2011 Marquette $22.95
Hand selected grapes are packed in halfton cardboard containers and shipped in refrigerated trailers directly to your facility via your preferred method and carrier. S & L Vineyards can be reached at 866.214.7273 or sales@slvineyards.com
8. Carlos Creek Winery - Alexandria, MN 2011 Marquette - $25.00
I have been working on recipes and food pairings with cold climate wines for the last six years. With a cookbook in the works, I hope to offer readers the confidence to serve Minnesota wines on the table with food that compliments the uniqueness of the cold climate varieties. For my sensibilities, Marquette is on the mark as a perfect choice for duck, lamb or pork.
Even though I try to maintain an air of culinary sophistication, I love corny rhymes and things that go matchy match. continued on page 20
LTRATION - OAK ALTERNATIVES -
11. Sovereign Estate Wine - Waconia MN 2012 Estate Marquette - $ 26.00
Your Cold Climate Filtration Specialists
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10. Winehaven- Chisago MN 2012 Marquette - $25.00
BECOPAD - SIHA YEAST - DECANTER CENTRIFUGE - STERI
9. Parley Lake Winery - Waconia MN 2011 Marquette - $ 25.00
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Minnesota Marquette and Morel Pork Tenderloin 1 medium thinly sliced shallot
2 tablespoon plum jam or grape jelly
4 cloves garlic minced
Place the tenderloins in a shallow pan with shallots, garlic 2 bay leaves and 2 rosemary sprigs, ½ cup red wine coffee. Season well with salt and black pepper. Marinate 1-4 hours in fridge. Remove ½ hour before cooking to allow meat to come to room temperature.
4 bay laurel leaves 4 sprigs rosemary ½ cup any red wine ½ cup strong coffee 2 tablespoons brown sugar Coarse salt Cracked black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil Pork tenderloins (2) 4 tablespoons unsalted butter ½ cup Marquette 1 cup of fresh or rehydrated morels cut in half 2 cups sliced mushrooms mixture of bella and shitake
Heat oven to 325 degrees. In a large heavy skillet over medium high heat add 2 tablespoons of olive oil and place tenderloins in skillet to sear. Reserve marinade mixture for reduction sauce. Turn tenderloins and brown evenly on all sides and
remove from heat while still medium rare. Remove from skillet to a baking dish and place in oven to finish while you make reduction sauce. Add butter to hot skillet and sauté mushrooms and morels. After two minutes of cooking, deglaze with ½ cup Marquette. Remove rosemary and bay leaves, then and add rest of marinade and 2 tablespoons jam to mushrooms. Reduce sauce for another 5 minutes. Slice tenderloin into ½” pieces and cover with mushroom sauce.
To poignantly embrace the whole farm-to-table doctrine, I can’t help but think “Minnesota, Marquette and Morels.” Minnesota is the third leading producer of pork meat in the nation; and while we are not hog farmers (yet) I have sourced some locally bred pasture raised pork from the Minnesota Grown (http://www3.mda. state.mn.us/mngrown/). With the cool delay of the season, I will soon be foraging through the elm studded woods that outline our vineyard for the fungi delicacies of our farm’s terroir. Oh, the joy of spring!
I like to serve over new redskin potatoes smashed with butter and garlic. O
Here is one of my favorite recipes showcasing my three favorite M’s. O
A Brief Testimonial about the Cold Climate Conference “I have made several purchases at the CCC. I find the exhibit area great to meet vendors, past and future. I have sourced almost everything for the vineyard and winery from exhibitors at the conference. Specifically I have purchased netting from Spec Trellising, Vineyard supplies from MDT, Bottles from Kaufman, lab supplies from Scott Labs, chemicals from Midwest Grower Supply etc. Often the vendors offer show discounts, though more importantly it is to touch products, discuss options and develop long term friendships.
Timothy Tulloch, Founder, European Roasterie Inc., LeCenter; Owner, Next Chapter Vineyard, New Prague
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Vineyard
Winery directory Garvin Heights Vineyards Garvin Heights Vineyards opened its doors as a farm winery in 2007. We specialize in wines made from locally grown grapes. Come and enjoy a glass of wine on our covered deck and see why see call it Minnesota’s most scenic winery.
Great River Winery
Great Local Wines & Gifts For You and to Share 2255 Garvin Hts Rd., Winona, MN www.ghvwine.com
Great River Winery in Lake City, MN, is now contracting to purchase fresh grapes in 2013 from Minnesota vineyards. Premium prices will be paid for quality Marquette, St. Pepin, La Crescent, Prairie Star, Louise, and Foch. Also looking for frozen red raspberries. Please contact John at 877-345-3531, or GRV@mchsi.com.
507-474-WINE(9463) Kendall Farms Kendall Farms is a supplier of premium Washington wine grapes, juice and wine. It takes great grapes to make great wine and Eastern Washington’s climate and volcanic soil provides the perfect setting for producing premium product. Working with top quality growers to supply the finest fruit and juice available from the best Washington wineries year round.
Knight Hollow Nursery, Inc.
On the Banks of Beautiful Lake Pepin 35680 Highway 61 Blvd Lake City, MN 55041 Winery: 651-654-4004
Knight Hollow Nursery is a leading producer of tissue cultured cold hardy grape vines. All vines produced from the University of Minnesota introductions have been virus indexed and are virus free.See the varieties available at our website www.knighthollownursery.com or call us at 608-831-5570.
Parley Lake Winery Experience the fine wine, rolling countryside and peaceful waters of Parley Lake. We are located on the edge of the Twin Cities, out in the country Our 125 rolling, wooded acres are adjacent to the Carver Park Reserve and offer the chance to experience 7 acres of Vineyards, 20 acres of orchards, and award winning locally grown and produced wines.
Knight Hollow Nursery, Inc. Tissue Cultured Grapes 7911 Forsythia Court Middleton,WI 53562 608-831-5570
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Richwood Winery We pride ourselves on making fine wines and offer several varieties. Our charming Tasting Room offers wine by the flight, glass or bottle. Browse in our Gift Shop for wine-related apparel and accessories. Our annual grape stomp is the Saturday after Labor Day.
Scenic Valley Winery We invite you to sample our private label country wines when you visit historic downtown Lanesboro. Housed in what was once the town’s creamery, Scenic Vally Winery is a family business established in 1984. Our wines are made from local fruits, berries and vegetables, which in season will fill the air with intriguing aromas of fermentation. scenicvalleywinery.com
Open Weekends Year Round 952-446-9957 9950 North Shore Road, Waconia, MN
www.SovereignEstateWine.com
Sovereign Estate Sovereign Estate Wine is a family owned winery and scenic vineyard overlooking Lake Waconia, just 30 miles west of the Twin Cites. Enjoy awardwinning wine in the Tasting Room, Patio Bar or Willow Room Wine Bar, serving artisan cheese boards along with live entertainment on weekends.
Whispering Oaks We exist to spread enjoyment to wine connoisseurs everywhere by growing the most exceptional grapes and producing extraordinary wines. Here’s to you You’re number one—and we really mean it. We’ve been to Europe on a number of wine-tasting trips, and we’ve learned it from the Germans:Der Kunde ist König. As our customer, you’re king (or queen!). http:// whisperingoakswinerymn.com/
Woodland Hill Winery: Experience Minnesota wine at its finest, in a beautiful country setting at Woodland Hill Winery. Taste our wines, relax, unwind while enjoying a glass or a bottle of wine with friends or family, overlooking the vineyard. 731 County Road 30 SE, Delano MN. 763-972-4000. www. woodlandhillwinery.com
WEDDINGS | GIFTS | TASTING ROOM | TOURS & EVENTS
We invite you to sample our private label country wines while you browse our unique gift shop.
101 Coffee St, Lanesboro 888-905-0259 507-467-2958 www.scenicvalleywinery.com
woodlandhillwinery.com Delano MN | 763.972.4000 | Wed - Sat: 11AM - 8PM | Sun: 12 - 6PM
See website for full event details. Let us host your next event. ‘Like’ us on Facebook!
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Elmer Swenson Memorial Scholarship Update
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or one engaged in studying some aspect of cold climate viticulture or enology.
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This year’s silent auction at the Cold Climate Conference was a tremendous success. The auction items we received generated over $3,000, which goes directly toward future scholarship awards, and the Elmer Swenson Memorial Committee members are grateful to all those who contributed to this success.
ongratulations to the 2013 Elmer Swenson Memorial Scholarship winners:
Jarred M. McMcCarthy, Lakeville, Minn.
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Emma Pelton, Madison, Wis.
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Soon Li Teh, Minneapolis, Minn.
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David Wett, Northfield, Minn.
The $1,000 scholarship honors the late citizen scientist and cold climate grape revolutionary Elmer Swenson and is awarded on the basis of merit to a full-time student at a Minnesota or Wisconsin accredited institution
to improve the experience.
The committee made a number of positive changes to the auction process this year, but invite feedback and suggestions for ways to continue
In the spirit of growth and future success for a bigger and better auction for the 2014 Cold Climate Conference, all interested participants are invited to start thinking about the items you saw and liked, and what items you can think of that might be wildly popular with the bidders. Then, when you have something you would like to contribute please contact Joni Courchaine at joni@parleylake.com with the information on your items. The delivery of the actual items is not required until the beginning of the conference, however the details for the bid sheets must be received no later than February 10, 2014. O
We’re Getting Bigger So You Can Get Better
Vintage Nurseries... growing with your success in mind.
Day after day, we plant and plan at Vintage Nurseries, expanding our product selection and service to meet your growing needs. In an effort to be a reliable source for all of our customers, we strive to maintain the highest standards in the industry. Quite simply, the bigger we get, the harder we work to keep your success and satisfaction our top priority.
Dave Haggmark - 805.237.8914
•
800.499.9019
•
www.VintageNurseries.com
Serving the Wine, Table Grape and Raisin Industries
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Answer the call 5th Annual International Cold Climate Wine Competition calls for entries
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ll the world is a stage as wines made from grapes grown in cold climates around the globe are judged at the 5th Annual International Cold Climate Wine Competition (ICCWC) this August. The competition will take place August 16 on the campus of the University of Minnesota, where several of the cold-hardy wine grapes were developed. This year’s competition includes categories for red, white, fortified, ice-wines, cold-hardy fruit/grape blends, and, new for 2013, a separate category for rosé wines made from the variety Frontenac. Judges participate in a blind tasting of the wines and award gold, silver and bronze medals, and best of show awards to the top red, white, and specialty wines. The annual “Governor’s Cup” is awarded to the favorite Minnesota wine of the internationally recognized wine experts on the judging panel. “The growth in popularity of cold hardy grapes and wine is a testament to the hard work and dedication of growers and winemakers,” said Ron Barnes, president of the Minnesota Grape Growers Association, the competition’s primary sponsor. “The International
Cold Climate Wine Competition continues to help our industry strive to achieve greatness and builds consumer demand for wines made from these grapes.” Minnesota’s grape and wine industry is expanding rapidly and last year contributed an estimated $40 million to the state’s economy. Since 1995, the number of wineries in the state has grown from seven to nearly 50. Total wine sales are expected to exceed $11.3 million by 2014.
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“The number of wineries competing in the ICCWC, and the increasing quality of the medal winning wines, proves that coldhardy varieties are more than simply a contender for the world’s appetite for wine. They are an integral part of the future of wine consumption worldwide,” said Jim Luby, a professor in the U of M’s department of horticultural science and one of the scientists developing the grapes. “This competition is an opportunity for winemakers to showcase their skill and creativity in developing outstanding wines that show well on the world stage.” To see a complete set of rules and to register, go to www.mngrapegrowers. com/competition. O The Northern Tier | Summer 2013
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HIGHLIGHT on MARKETING
Marketing: O Collaboration is key
ne approach to winery success is through collaboration, according to Dan McCole of the Michigan State University Tourism Research Group (TRG), who spoke on this topic at the Cold Climate Conference. The mission of the TRG is to provide scientifically derived marketing and economic information to help increase the success of regional wineries while improving the wine tourism experience for all visitors. TRG projects involved interviews with Michigan wineries, surveys of their tasting rooms, study of motivations and itineraries for wine tourists, and collaboration in the wine tourism industry. It is an industry that continues to grow rapidly. In 1940, there were just over 1,000 wineries in the United States; in 2010 there were more than 7,400. With increasing growth comes competition and the goal is for it to be a healthy one. And that is accomplished when a winery develops an effective marketing plan. That plan needs to answer the questions: What do you sell at your winery? And why do people come to your winery? TRG determined that the primary reason people visit wineries are: to have a relaxing day out, to purchase wine, to socialize with friends and others, and to have a unique experience. Wine drinkers need to be viewed as potential wine tourists, who look to not only purchase the wine, but purchase a wine travel experience. The motivations are the same, whether you are in Napa, Minnesota, or Wisconsin. The tourists interviewed by TRG identified themselves as mostly being somewhat knowledgeable about wines in general. The two largest age groups visiting Michigan tasting rooms were between the ages of 2130 and 51-60. This makes sense, for these are the ages of the young and curious or older and with more leisure time.
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Grape Vines for Sale To bring these visitors to a winery, it makes sense for newer and growing wineries and wine regions to work together. A collaborative approach will speed up the learning curve with technical aspects of grape growing and wine making with new varieties of grapes; it makes a stronger statement to the public that this is a unique and particular wine region; it presents a consistent message that the wines from these regions have appeal for even the experienced wine drinker; and it makes it clear that even non-wine drinkers can enjoy experiencing what is going on in cold climate vineyards and wineries.
Other benefits of collaboration include increased tasting room visitors; enhanced brand equity; provision of better experiences for the customers; favorable policies and legislation; research needs addressed; improved understanding of emergent problems; fewer required capital investments; shared expertise; improved community relations; and new opportunities for retail, education, and brand building. McCole was clear that stated reasons for resistance to collaboration is that a winery feared it would encourage “free riders.”
Along with a lack of trust in a collaboration, there was insecurity along the lines of “I don’t want others to know what I know” or, conversely, “I don’t want others to know what I don’t know.” Some claimed there wasn’t time or a preference to “go it alone.” McCole stated that the Social Exchange Theory could be put to practice in a collaboration. The theory contends that participants in any relationship will maintain that relationship assuming that the benefits they receive from the relationship exceed continued on page 28
Award winning grape varities including: -Frontenac Gris (virus free) -La Crescent (virus free) -Marquette (virus free) -Louise Swenson -Somerset Seedless
Knight Hollow Nursery 7911 Forsythia Court, Middleton, WI 53562 Phone: (608) 831-5570 Email: knighthollownursery@ tds.net Website: knighthollownursery.com Photo © Univeristy of Minnesota
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the costs they put into it, and are better than alternatives. Based on that, and with those in the collaboration expecting positive outcomes, there are many ways in which wineries can collaborate for a mutually beneficial outcome: wine-based packages, events, crosspromotion, destination development and branding, wine branding, education programs, employee training, tourism planning and tourism niches. Winery collaborative also benefit from working with tourism organizations not directly affi liated with the wine industry. These organizations might focus on destination marketing, restaurants, bed and breakfast, hotels and motels, tour operators, retailers, non-grape agri-tourism, recreation providers and other food and beverage providers.
Nothing increases the appeal and demand for a winery than a direct visitor experience, and McCole emphasized the important of developing wine tourism, and wine tourism develops more strongly through a working collaboration among the wineries and tourism organizations. A visitor is willing to travel even more than 200 miles on a weekend from their home if the whole travel experience includes interesting sites and a good wine offered in a welcoming atmosphere. The fi rst phase to build a successful collaboration is assessment. In this phase, the group needs to analyze the existing conditions, including: number of wineries, number of “good fit” partners (e.g. restaurants, retail, cheese shops, bakeries, recreation providers), lodging providers, existing events, regional competencies,
distance from population areas, signage, fi nancial support, local government support, tourism support and local community support. In the second phase, the focus is on recruiting partners. Everyone important to the success of the wine region must be considered, including tourism organizations, local policy makers, banks/creditors, and local residents. And then it is important to think from the perspectives of these stake holders: what outcomes from the wine region will be important to them—the good and the bad. The third phase is strategy development, and it includes a steering committee. The strategy process needs to identify a vision and mission for the region that emphasizes an area’s unique attributes, to
agree on values, and to set short- and long-term goals. Phase four is implementation. Here goals are prioritized for the year and are aligned with long-term goals, action plans are set for each goal, officers are elected, and monthly meetings are held to monitor progress. During the fi fth and fi nal phase, the collaboration undertakes evaluation. During this phase, the collaboration develops a system to measure key metrics, reports metrics on a regular basis, tracks and analyzes data, makes adjustments to the plan based on the data, and reassesses strategy every few years. The industry is growing, and through an enthusiastic use of a collaborative model for marketing, the success of the industry as a whole is assured. O
Several sessions related to marketing were among a wide range of seminars and workshops offered at the 2013 Cold Climate Conference in St. Paul.
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U of M continues grape research
2014
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rape breeding goals at the University of Minnesota currently include continued development of grapes that offer cold hardiness, high wine quality, disease resistance, productivity, strong growth habit and early ripening. Based on results for primary bud survival, the strong performers are Frontenac, Frontenac gris, Marquette and Sabrerois. Looking ahead, the U of M is working to develop more dry whites, including a hardy Seyval or “poor man’s chardonnay,� tannic reds, Muscats, seedless table grapes, and ornamental vines. O
CONNECT. CULTIVATE. CREATE.
SAVE THE DATE! February 20, 21, 22 2014 10th Annual Cold Climate Conference Connect. Cultivate. Create. Crowne Plaza St Paul Riverfront - St. Paul, MN The Midwest’s Premier 3-Day Educational Event Dedicated to the Cold Climate Grape and Wine Industry * 3 days of Trade Show
* Cold Climate Wine Shine
* Thursday Workshop Intensive
* Winter Wine Fest
* 3 Contiguous tracks in Viticulture, Enology, Business Management and Marketing
* Gold Medal Awards Gala an evening of fine dining and industry awards
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2013 MIDWEST WINE STROLL Cold Climate Conference attendees had a fabulous time at this year’s Midwest Wine Stroll. Just a few examples are included below.
Linda and Marvin Seppanen, Garvin Heights Vineyard.
Dell Schott, left, Bevens Creek Vineyard and Nursery; and Steve Zeller, right, Parley Lake Winery.
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Brad and Laurie Nilles, Seven Hawks Vineyards, at left, serving a sample to Rudy Jungwirth, right, of Valley Vineyard.
Ryan and Michelle Allshouse, Seven Oaks Farm.
Jenny and Scott Ellenbecker, Round Lake Vineyard.
Jen Antila, Catalyst Cooks.
This year’s Midwest Wine Stroll offered ample opportunities for networking.
Conference attendees take advantage of a chance to unwind and do a little wine sampling at the Wine Stroll.
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Join the Minnesota Wine Movement!
Passports can be purchased at: www.mngrapegrowers.com/passport
Cost is $25 each You get 10 FREE tastings at any of the participating wineries; one tasting per person, per passport, per winery. Good through the calendar year 2013
Great Gift Idea!
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