Slow Food Master Italian Cooking News, no. 1, year II, May 2003
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- news 2003
SCHOOL OF ITALIAN REGIONAL COOKING Jesi • Italy
Energia. Piacere. Respira.
Elica Collection. Concave.
è essenziale proprio come
Benessere. Immagina di
Perché non è una cappa
l'aria. Ed è tutto più puro,
andare oltre. Oltre
da cucina. È un'altra vita.
più armonioso, più
l'efficienza. Oltre il design.
Una vita in cui la qualità
perfetto. Anche le emozioni.
w w w. e l i c a . c o m
La Nuova Agenzia di Michael Göttsche.
AROMATERAPIA.
numero verde 800.23.11.22
SEGNO D’ARIA
contents
One, ten, a hundred different dishes Gianfranco Mancini
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The students comment...
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The dishes, their history, their traditions
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Master Italian Cooking News MAGAZINE OF THE ISTITUTO SUPERIORE DI GASTRONOMIA
A universe between two seas Marisa Gigliotti
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Editorial Director Gianfranco Mancini
General Program
13
Weekly Work Plan
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Regional Cooking Programs
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The use of herbs in Italian cooking
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Professional cooking utensils The SAPS Association
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Taste testing
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Inauguration of the School
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Our expert cooks Our internship restaurants
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To Convivium Leaders
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A wonderful fish soup: brodetto
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Editorial Staff Paolo Bellini, Stefania Cavallini, Angelo Concas, Alberto Fabbri, Armando Gambera, Carlo Gazzarrini, Marisa Gigliotti, Piergiorgio Oliveti, Francesco Pensovecchio, Federico Piemonte, Pasquale Porcelli, Vito Puglia, Gilberto Venturini. Editorial Co-ordination Arduino Tassi Translations Martha Huber Scavone Graphics and page layout GEI Gruppo Editoriale Informazione Elisabetta Carletti Printing Arti Grafiche Jesine - Jesi Advertising and administration Associazione Ital. Cook. via F. Conti n. 5 – 60035 JESI (AN) Italy Tel. ++39.0731.56400 Fax ++39.0731.221224 Web: www.italcook.it E.mail: info@italcook.it Recorded in the Tribunal of Ancona no. 433/02, 22.02.2002 Editor-in-chief: Dino Mogianesi
ASSOCIAZIONE ITAL.COOK. Founded by Slow Food and the Town Council of Jesi Board of Directors Nicola Silveri, Giovanni Mancia, Simona Romagnoli. Reviser Board Giuliano Cerioni, Sergio Moretti, Sabrina Rotatori.
Cover: Natura morta con tavola imbandita, frittata e pane Carlo Magini (Fano, 1720-1806)
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One, ten, a hundred different dishes: this is the taste of Italy The first Master’s course has come to a close and the second is well underway. We got off to a slow start, as is appropriate, after all, for friends of the snail, so much the better to fine-tune the organization and perfect the teaching program. By now our Students are scattered around Italy, each according to his or her own needs and desires, to engage in internships and further study. After the initial running-in period, which we did alongside of the Students, our vessel is sea-worthy and ready to face the open sea. We are happy to share with you how pleased we are to have accomplished such an exciting project: to teach the territorial roots of Italian food culture by first studying and then producing the many traditional dishes. Region by region, from Piemonte to Puglia, from Toscana to Sicilia, as if on a great stage, daily the bestknown dishes of each area are presented, each with its own history and made with quality ingredients. Today it may be the Trentino “canederli” in broth, tomorrow the Campania rice “sartù”, followed by the “tortellini” of Bologna or the “frascarelli di riso” of the 2
Marche and still another day, the Friuli dishes made with goose. The richness of Italian cuisine is the fruit of a centuries-old layering of experiences and cross-cultural ‘contamination’ (today it is called ‘fusion’). We believe that every chef who wants to prepare Italian food abroad in a professional manner must know these roots, be familiar with the history behind each dish, taste the real ingredients. Then it is also true that these traditional dishes must be adapted, made more modern, presented in a lighter version to keep up with changing tastes. The work doesn’t stop here: every Monday is devoted to themed lessons with tasting sessions in the key areas of wine, olive oil, charcuterie products, cheese, bread, etc. From the beginning to the end of the Course, incessantly, the Students have learned tasting
techniques by practicing with red and white wines, with soft rind or aged cheeses, with varieties of extra virgin olive oil, with a panoply of salumi products, or experimenting with breads. This constant exercise in learning to taste and distinguish has increased the gustative capabilities of each participant and this, too, is in line with the Slow Food philosophy which bases its teachings on the development of one’s sensorial skills. Finally, at the end of each week, with the Students we visited different factories and facilities - from chocolate to the stuffed olives (for frying), from balsamic vinegar in Reggio Emilia to parmigiano reggiano cheese, from a home-made pasta craft industry to high quality charcuterie products. The ten weeks flew by quickly, the amount of information imparted every day was huge, as were the number of dishes and variety of ingredients from each region: impressed upon the palate and the memory of each participant is the very basis of “the taste of Italy”.
The Director Gianfranco Mancini
School of Italian Regional Cooking
Palazzo Balleani • Jesi • Italia 3
“We visited the Gabrielloni olive mill in Recanati where they explained the oil-making process, hand-picking the olives, washing and crushing them. I understood that the olives must be brought to the mill within a day of being picked to prevent the onset of fermentation”.
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“The moment finally came to sit down with them at table; we started by tasting four different kinds of Gabrielloni olive oil, quite distinct in terms of both aroma and taste. I was most impressed by a variety of olive grown in the Marche which had a very intense bitter and equally intense tangy taste.”
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O
The students comment...
urs is a special kind of cooking School: here we taste Italian regional cuisine, here we learn about different regional traditions each week, here we learn tasting techniques for wine, olive oil, charcuterie products and cheeses, here the ingredients taste different according to their land of origin. This is how the Students commented on their experiences.
“At the Monday tastings (wine, oil, salumi, cheese, bread) I always used all five senses for evaluating the products. I espe4
cially liked the extra virgin olive oil tastings and I learned to recognize the flaws (heated, rancid, marc, winey, mould)”.
“It was a very useful experience for my work and will surely serve me well in the future when I choose extra virgin olive oils for my restaurant.”
***
“At the Cantina Casalfarneto I met a wine producer who works so conscientiously he seems to me to be almost “obsessed” with his Verdicchio. We tasted three different wines and I understood that the Verdicchio vine is very powerful and can present itself very differently, but always with great character.”
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“The visit to the Cantina Bucci made me understand the infinite possibilities of expression in a Verdicchio. After a long ageing in casks, it is refined in bottles for many months. The wine is particularly complex in flavour but remains fresh. In my opinion, the Verdicchio could age well over
time like a red wine.”
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During our visit to the Azienda Leoni which produces parmigiano cheese I understood the importance of the food that a cow eats to produce good milk and therefore good cheese. I also learned how to recognize a flawed wheel of cheese.”
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My experience at the Picci vinegar plant in Reggio Emilia was great and I learned so many things that I didn’t know before: the different varieties of wood used for the small casks, the ageing phases for traditional balsamic vinegar, the work of the Consortium, the stringent evaluation process the vinegar undergoes before being marketed as a guarantee to the consumer.”
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“I didn’t know that the Consortium was so careful and strict. The traditional balsamic vinegar tasting session made me change my mind about using this vinegar in cooking.”
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“Every week we were able to taste quality ingredients, all different. I think it is interesting for foreign cooks who prepare Italian food to know what quality ingredients are. A good chef must put together excellent ingredients and his own skill.”
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“I learned so many things from this course, but the most important thing was to be able to ‘touch’, ‘smell’ and ‘see’ the quality of the ingredients. I mostly learned the technique of tasting.” 5
The dishes, their history, their traditions On these pages we’ll tell you about some of the dishes studied and prepared by the Master’s Students, under the guidance of the Instructors invited to Jesi for the purpose of presenting the typical dishes of their own Region; thus, each teaching Chef shows off the best his or her land has to offer, with total respect for local traditions and placing each dish in the historical context in which it was born. Il tor tellino in brodo EMILIA One day, a beautiful lady requested lodging at the Locanda della Dogana in the town of Castelfranco Emilia. Only too happy to comply, the host could not resist the temptation to peep at her through the key hole, just glimpsing her lovely navel. From there came the inspiration to create a new type of filled pasta: the tortellino. This imaginative legend was passed down by Alessandro Tassoni of the 17th century in his mock-heroic poem “La secchia rapita” (The enraptured grind). Playful invention aside, it is a fact that tortellini have become a signature dish of Emilia and they must be made by hand, with very thin hand-rolled dough, cooked and served in broth. 6
Fave e cicorie PUGLIA A dish of ancient tradition was born in a land where crunchy and tasty vegetables are abundant, where fava beans are still eaten today, hulled and left to soak overnight. It is easy to imagine how the peasants could prepare such a meal, even with field work to do, because chicory greens grow wild in the fields. The favas were boiled and then mashed
to a purée; the chicory was cooked separately. They were then eaten together on the same plate, seasoned with a bit of good quality olive oil. It was always a very humble dish and yet it is still proposed today for the combination of the three ingredients is splendid and lends itself to numerous variations. It can be served with red onion and sautéed olives, with roasted peppers, with lampascioni (a wild, onion-like edible bulb). There is no meat in this dish which makes it an ideal meal for those who prefer to eat vegetarian.
La bagna caoda PIEMONTE “Bagna caoda” literally means “warm sauce”. The main ingredients are garlic, anchovy fillets and oil. The tradition goes back to past centuries when the ‘sauce’ was put in the center of the table and everyone would dip their favourite vegetables into the dish. It was a joyous way to eat cardoons, peppers, onions, and Savoy cabbage, all generally raw. In spite of decidedly strong flavours, the dish was popular from the southern lands of the Piemonte region all the way to the Court of the
House of Savoy in the Turin of the mid-1700’s. The modernday version prefers a lighter approach with pre-blanched garlic, with cooked onions and peppers, and with oil that is not subjected to overheating.
Il couscous SICILIA Sicily, for its central position in the Mediterranean Sea, has acquired over the centuries experiences and traditions of many different peoples with subsequent ‘contaminations’ of the cuisine. The Arabs, in particular, introduced many new ingredients such as citrus fruits, artichokes, cane sugar, saffron, dried pasta, spices and couscous. The natural outcome is a rich, imaginative cuisine that is laden with fascinating aromas and complex flavours. To make couscous durum wheat semolina is soaked and worked with the hands to form little grains which are then steamed in water with oil and salt. When cooked, the couscous can be seasoned with meat, fish or vegetables.
I vincesgrassi MARCHE In the Marche the term ‘vincesgrassi’ identifies a particular kind of lasagna made with chicken giblet ragù, ground beef, tomato and very little white sauce. That there is always a sprinkling of grated parmigiano on top goes without saying. The original version, however, as put in writing by 7
Antonio Nebbia in 1780, did not call for any tomato (at the time, not yet in vogue) but rather used ham and truffles. A more modern version of this ‘little lasagna recipe’ prefers less meat, aromatic herbs, plenty of steamed vegetables and a little just-barely cooked tomato.
La jota FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA Originally from the sub-alpine Carnia area, this soup called the ‘jota’ spread throughout the Friuli region as far as the city of Trieste, once at the heart of the Middle-European culture (between Italy, Slovenia and the Habsburg Empire). Obviously, there are numerous variations: does one add cornmeal or pumpkin purée to the beans and chopped lard? Besides lard, should one also use bacon (pancetta)? Some add pork rind or ribs, others avoid adding any kind of flour, but add barley. As can be gathered, the dish varies greatly from town to town.
Pizzoccheri LOMBARDIA The Valtellina is an alpine valley in the Lombard section of the Alps, famous for its red wines and winter holiday venues. In the valley the centuries-old local custom of cultivating buckwheat lives on. A humble grain, once held in low esteem, this ‘Saracen wheat’ produces a dark grey flour. If mixed with water and salt, but 8
no egg, the dough can be cut into thick, wide and fairly short noodles, called “pizzoccheri”. Served with potatoes or Savoy cabbage, plenty of cheese and melted butter, plus a generous grinding of black pepper, it is a delicious mountain dish to enjoy on cold winter days.
Bigoli e agnello d’Alpago VENETO Bigoli, or “bigoi” in dialect, so popular in the Veneto region, look like fat spaghetti but are home-made, forced through a small press. Bigoli are generally made from tender wheat bread flour, as opposed to dry pasta which is made from durum wheat semolina. This pasta can be seasoned quite simply with an onion and anchovy sauce, but here it is proposed with the noble accompaniment of the Alpago lamb. This is an exceptional animal which roams free in the mountains near Alpago. It feeds on the sweet-scented forage from mountain pastures and grain meals. The Alpago lamb is a Slow Food Presidium.
Strangolapreti TRENTINO The word “strangolapreti” or “strozzapreti”, which literally means to strangle or ‘choke a priest’, refers to either a soft gnocchi-type or a dry pasta made with coarse unrefined flours – the thought of which would have been horrifying to the delicate palates of the noble prelates of yore. Trentino tradition traces this pasta back to the Council of Trent (mid-1500’s) when, for long years, the Pope and his bishops met in that city. Here the ingredients are substantial and rich: white flour, eggs, butter, milk, grana cheese and spinach. A spoon is used to shape the pasta into very soft gnocchi; a delicious dish.
Biancomangiare TOSCANA The term (literally, “white eating”) denotes either sweet or savory dishes and consists of all white ingredients such as milk or almond flour. These white foods were popular during the Middle Ages in Italy and elsewhere. Sometimes rice flour was also used, a rare commodity in that era, and was customarily served in the time before Easter during Lent, when eating meat was forbidden. For centuries biancomangiare was considered a noble dish, often eaten as a first course. In this version it is presented as a dessert.
Spaghetti con colatura di alici CAMPANIA Off the Tyrrhenian coast, just south of Naples, fishing for anchovies is still practised with respectful attention to sea life. The freshly caught anchovies, pink in color and extraordinarily fragrant, are put in brine and covered with layers of salt. The liquid which forms is collected and filtered. This “colatura”, as it is called, serves as an excellent condiment for a plate of Gragnano spaghetti. The connection between the name of the town and the history of the pasta dates back to the 1700’s when Gragnano was already known as “the macaroni city” and the noble tradition lives on today, thanks to a handful of dedicated artisans.
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C A L A B R I A
C A L A B R I A
M
A universe between two seas At the very heart of Calabria: the lands of Catanzaro The Province of Catanzaro Assessorato all’Agricoltura Assessorato al Turismo
Calabria is an extraordinary region for the variety of the landscape, the cultural heritage, the eno-gastronomic wealth. It is a land of mountains and a land of sea coasts, it was the first land to be named Italy. To appreciate its flavours is not possible without first knowing the basics of its history and geography. 10
Before the Greeks made their stronghold here, the woods were inhabited by populations descending from the continent, among them the Italic people, who practised pastoral farming and agriculture. Subsequently, Calabria was among the most significant areas of Magna Graecia with rich and powerful colonies. Among the oldest wines we find the Cirò whose name derives from the sacred games of Olympus and from the legendary epic of Ulysses. Calabria’s cultural richness is still very much alive in the present-day ethnic minorities (Occitanian, Albanian and Southern Italian Greek) which have retained their language, customs and traditions. Just as great is the heritage left by past dominations of Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, and Spaniards. The enormous variety in terms of morphology, climate and geology found in this land make it a complete ‘universe’ between two seas (the
Tyrrhenian and the Ionian). There are mountains cloaked in forest trees and chestnut groves, torrents and streams, softly rounded hills dotted with olive trees and great expanses of citrus groves and wheat fields as far as the eye can see. Calabria has the uncommon distinction of being one of the very few places in the world where the bergamot orange and the citron fruit are cultivated. The bergamot orange is used in the cooking industry for making liqueurs, candy and desserts, but it is also valuable for its essential oil used in the perfume industry. The citron is a large citrus fruit with a thick rind and very little, somewhat sour pulp; its shape is the symbol of perfection with marked mystical and religious undertones. An especially inviting aspect of the region is its people who have managed to preserve intact the cult of hospitality, now become a way of life.
idway between the two coasts, this area is the most representative of the Region and the ‘Calabresi’, where the physical characteristics of the land are so closely linked to the history of the place and its people with rich and contrasting tastes. The gastronomy is a delightful surprise, as wonderfully rich and fascinating as the regional history, where the ingredients combine and mix as in a story, intertwining aromas, flavours and cultures. The basic ingredients haven’t changed; they are starches, legumes, vegetables, fish, pork, olive oil, black pepper and hot red pepper. Although red pepper is a fairly recent addition (only after the discovery of the Americas), it was assimilated so naturally into the Calabrian diet as to play an essential role in the preparation of tomato sauces, charcuterie products, cheeses and lately, even in chocolates, to go back to the Arab custom of combining sweet and spicy. Olive oil, wine and wheat are strong points of Calabrian cuisine. One of the early Greek names given to Calabria was ‘Enotria’ (from oinos - wine) because of the great sunny vineyards. The extra virgin olive oils are very green in color with yellow highlights and a fruity taste. They are always used in preparing dishes according to the authentic tradition of the Mediterranean diet. Cheeses are varied, including unique varieties of goat and
sheep’s milk cheeses, cow’s milk cheeses such as provola and caciocavallo, as well as unusual butirri, small cheeses with butter in the core. Many products are made with wheat, from bread to cuddure, to home-made pasta (lagane, tagghiarini, cavateddi, scilateddi, maccaruni al ferretto, maccaruni ‘e zita). Some of the most typical dishes of Catanzaro must include u morzheddu (eaten in great bites in ‘pitta’), made from beef offal cooked over a slow fire with lots of tomato sauce and red pepper. It is still prepared and served in the taverns (the ‘putiche’) of the old town center. Another dish to be mentioned is a tiana which consists of tender goat meat, peas, artichokes and potatoes, cooked in terracotta and oven baked till crusty. The mountainous areas, full of forests, yield a sizeable production of chestnuts (also ground for the flour) and mushrooms, preserved in jars and 11
C A L A B R I A
also dried for year-round use. Other preserves (dried tomatoes, eggplant, olives, onions, garden vegetables) are produced by numerous qualified companies for worldwide export. There is still the custom of preserving food in terracotta jars called ‘lancelle’ or ‘salaturi’. Charcuterie products, among which the famous soppressata, represent another food category of particular distinction. Raising pork and processing and preserving its products is a ritual handed down from father to son in virtually every village and town. The Ionian and Tyrrhenian Seas supply varieties of fish (in particular, anchovies, sardines, spatula fish and octopi) which are prepared simply, following ancient recipes. Tuna and cod are also used and have traditional preparations which are sometimes rather elaborate. In terms of sweets the cupeta di Montepaone deserves special mention. It is made from sesame seeds, wildflower or orange blossom honey, almonds, aromatic wine, citrus extracts - all natural ingredients produced regionally. In recent years, the 12
cupeta is mostly made at home, whereas in the past it was, for centuries, always made by Master cupeta-makers of Montepaone at festivals. Slow Food has aided in renewing the interest and relaunching artisan production of this fine sweet. It can be made either the traditional way with the vino cotto (aromatic wine) or in the festival version with more honey, an original and unique product, quite different from the more commonly found cumpettu. And last, but not least, come the scents of spices, of medicinal herbs and wild grasses (‘erve e timpa’ used in soups) wafting through the air, an irresistible invitation to become acquainted with the rich heritage of tastes which draws its strength from an ancient and prestigious past and never fails to entice.
Marisa Gigliotti
General Program Course Dates 2003
Course Dates 2004
Course Dates 2005
8 January - 14 March 25 March - 30 May 9 June - 13 August 7 October - 12 December
7 January - 12 March 23 March - 28 May 8 June - 12 August 5 October - 10 December
7 January - 11 March 22 March - 27 May 7 June - 12 August 4 October - 9 December 13
Il Programma
zione di vino, olio di oliva, pasta, formaggi, salumi tipici e tradizionali selezionati tra i migliori produttori di tutto il territorio nazionale. Nel tempo libero ciascun corsista avrà la possibilità di approfondire le proprie conoscenze con studio individuale presso la biblioteca dell’Istituto. 5 Le lezioni si terranno nei giorni di martedì, mercoledì, giovedì e venerdì, con orario pieno. Dopo una breve presentazione storicogeografico della Regione con le sue tradizioni enogastronomiche e con le sue particolarità ambientali, si passerà allo studio concreto dei piatti tipici del territorio. L’insegnamento non sarà teorico, ma principalmente pratico ed individuale. I docenti e le materie prime provengono dalle singole regioni e cambiano ogni settimana. Il venerdì sera la scuola apre le porte alla città e presenta i piatti più interessanti della settimana. 6 Il sabato e la domenica sono riservati allo studio individuale e alla conoscenza di aziende, produttori, prodotti tipici nei vari settori alimentari. Alcuni produttori verranno direttamente presso la Scuola per presentare i loro prodotti con prova di assaggio, in altri casi gli chef usciranno sul territorio per conoscere le singole aziende e i produttori in tutte le regioni d’Italia. Alcuni fine settimana sono dedicati alla visita delle città d’arte. 7 Il numero massimo di partecipanti è di venti corsisti, ai quali si garantisce anche vitto e alloggio in appartamenti in palazzi storici, nel centro della città, a pochi passi dalla Scuola. Il costo del corso, compreso vitto, alloggio, divise di lavoro, è di diecimila dollari USA, più mille dollari di iscrizione. 8 Alla fine del corso viene rilasciato ufficialmente un Master con il riconoscimento della Regione Marche e del Ministero del Lavoro.
1 The courses are designed for chefs working outside Italy who wish to widen and improve their knowledge of Italian cuisine. In particular we are addressing cooks who have completed their training and have worked alongside established chefs for some time. Our aim is to provide a wideranging frame of reference with plenty of in-depth detail that will enable cooks to interpret Italian cuisine to the highest standards throughout the world. Those wishing to take this Master's should thus be familiar with basic culinary techniques. 2 The courses are held at the Institute, which is located in Palazzo Balleani, n. 5 via F. Conti in Jesi, a city of 40,000 inhabitants in the central Italian region of the Marche. Each course lasts for ten weeks, and those taking part will all be able to further their experience by specializing for a few months or even a year with restaurants associated with Slow Food throughout Italy. They will thus come into direct contact with restaurateurs specialized in meat or fish dishes, from North to South, comprising a whole range of particular regional specialties. 3 Every week the cuisine of a particular Region of Italy will be the object of a special focus, such that by the end of the course the cooks will be familiar with Italian cooking in its foremost regional expressions: from the traditional rural dishes of Tuscany to the fish preparations of the Adriatic; from the cheeses of Piedmont to the tortellini of Emilia Romagna; from the vegetable dishes of Puglia to the sweets of Sicily; from the cuisine of the Alpine valleys to that of the Mediterranean coast. Italy is a complex mosaic of history and products, dishes and traditions, scents and savors. Every "festa" is indeed a feast, which means a particular dish and a celebration of life. 4 One day a week, preferably Monday, will be devoted to short single-topic courses with tastings of wine, olive oil, pasta, cheese
and cured meats selected from the country's foremost producers. During their free time, the participants will have access to the Institute Library, where they will be able to do more research on subjects of special interest to them. 5 Lessons will be held all day on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays. Following a brief historical and geographical introduction to the Region, its environmental features and its food and wine heritage, students will move on to the preparation of typical regional dishes. These will be practical, hands-on lessons taught by regional specialists using specific regional ingredients that will change from week to week. On Fridays the School will open its doors to a select public, presenting the most interesting dishes of the week's endeavor for their evaluation. 6 Saturdays and Sundays will be devoted to individual study and getting to know a wide range of producers and their products. Some producers will present their products at the school, where tasting sessions will also be arranged. Others will welcome chefs to their premises throughout the country for weekend visits. Other weekend activities may include visiting Italy's art cities. 7 Each course will be attended by no more than twenty participants, who will also receive board and lodging in apartments in the center of the city, not far from the School. The cost of the course, including board, lodging, work uniforms etc. is ten thousand US dollars, plus one thousand dollars deposit fee. 8 At the end of the course all participants will receive an official Master's certificate under the aegis of the Marche Region and the Italian Ministry of Labor.
The Program
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1 I corsi sono riservati a cuochi che operano all’estero e vogliono acquisire una conoscenza approfondita della cucina italiana. Ci rivolgiamo in particolare a cuochi che abbiano già terminato il loro curriculum scolastico o che abbiano lavorato per qualche tempo accanto ad altri chef di cucina. Noi desideriamo dare una conoscenza ampia e rigorosa, con metodo organico e preciso a coloro che desiderano fare cucina italiana nel mondo in modo professionale. Pertanto chi desidera partecipare al nostro Master deve già conoscere le fondamentali tecniche di lavoro in cucina. 2 I corsi si svolgono presso la sede dell’Istituto in via F. Conti, 5 nel Palazzo Balleani, a Jesi, cittadina di 40.000 abitanti, nelle Marche, nell’Italia Centrale. I corsi hanno una durata di dieci settimane. Tutti coloro che frequenteranno il Master avranno la possibilità di continuare la loro esperienza per alcuni mesi o un anno presso i ristoranti della catena Slow Food in tutt’Italia, da nord a sud, specializzandosi sia in carne che pesce, nelle Regioni che ciascuno preferisce. 3 Ogni settimana viene presentata, studiata ed elaborata la cucina di una Regione d’Italia. Alla fine del corso ogni professionista conoscerà la cucina italiana nelle più elevate espressioni regionali: dalla cucina tradizionale e contadina della Toscana al pesce dell’Adriatico, dai formaggi del Piemonte ai tortellini dell’Emilia Romagna, dalle verdure della Puglia ai dolci della Sicilia, dalla cucina delle valli alpine a quella mediterranea. L’Italia è un mosaico infinito di storie e di prodotti, di piatti e di tradizione, di profumi e di sapori in ogni terra. Da noi per ogni festa c’è un piatto e per ogni piatto c’è una festa! 4 Un giorno a settimana, di preferenza il lunedì, è dedicato a corsi brevi, monotematici con degusta-
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Weekly Work Plan MONDAY THEMED TASTING AT THE REGIONAL ENOTECA 1. Wine Getting to know the principle vines and wines of Italy • Red wines of Piemonte and Toscana • White wines of Friuli, Veneto and Trentino • Local wines of Central Italy • Emerging great wines of Southern Italy 2. Extra Virgin Olive Oil Recognizing excellent national products • Understanding the oil-making process • Taste-testing for qualities and defects • Appreciating the oils from the various regions and the islands 3. Cheese Appreciating Italian cheeses • Cheese-making methods • Ageing and refining • Typical regional products 4. Charcuterie Products Discovering the great regional traditions • Salumi- cooked and raw; ground paste or whole meat • Salami and ciauscolo 16
• Cured pork- coppa, lonza, lonzino • Prized cuts- prosciutto, culatello, fiocco • Mortadella and bresaola 5. Bread Learning to work with leavened dough • The flour, the yeast; rising and baking • Varieties: common, whole wheat, seasoned • Breadsticks and holiday breads
TUESDAY-FRIDAY COOKING COURSE WITH DIFFERENT REGIONAL DISHES EACH WEEK Timetable: from 8:30a.m. to 5:30p.m. Workshop for the senses At the beginning of each week the Region is introduced with a brief overview of its history and geography. Then each day the lesson starts with a presentation of the prime ingredients: their characteristics, quality, zone of origin and the
Regional Enoteca of Jesi
companies that produce them. This is our “tasting laboratory” and lasts for about an hour. Transfer to the teaching kitchen The Instructor explains the recipes for the day and prepares each dish right along with the Students who follow the process and also prepare the dishes themselves. All the operations are carefully observed and guided by the expert Chef. The work will not be rushed, but done with precision in the time required. When the cooking is finished, the dishes are taken to the table to be tasted, checked and compared. Collective discussion The daily teaching program is reviewed and eventual variations on the base dish
discussed, proposed or critiqued. Every day several base dishes will be studied. Work ends at 5:30p.m. Friday evening highlights At the close of a week’s work on Friday evening the School is open to a select public. In the Pergolesi Hall a dinner-tasting will be offered to 20 to 25 people with a series of dishes jointly prepared by teachers and students, each recipe according to the traditions of their region of origin. Top quality prime ingredients and wines will be used from the School’s sponsor companies and those chosen by Slow Food from among the best at national level.
SATURDAY & SUNDAY Saturdays and Sundays are dedicated to getting to know the regions and their products by direct contact with the producers. Some weeks the producers will come to Jesi to present their companies and products with a guided tasting session. At other times the Students will travel to various Regions and visit the producers on site. The work done on the weekends is very important because it is the most direct way for the Students to learn about the products, how to use them, where to find them in their place of origin and how to introduce them in a future workplace.
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n the 15th century the historical center of Jesi went though a phase of great development. Right in the heart of the old city, near the beautiful Palazzo della Signoria, is the Palazzo Balleani, a building that belonged to a family who owned a large amount of land outside of the town walls. All the great land-owning families had large cellars beneath their homes where they gathered grapes to make their supply of wine for the winter. Palazzo Balleani, where our School is located, also houses the Regional Enoteca (Wine-Cellar) of Jesi. This Enoteca is managed by Assivip, an association of wine producers who organize wine tasting courses. Not only do they present wine, but also other high-quality products from local producers: extra virgin olive oil, cheeses, salami, pasta. On Mondays the Enoteca is available to our School, where we hold our themed courses on wine, olive oil, bread, salumi and cheese. The collaboration with the Enoteca continues on Friday evenings with the conclusion of the teaching program of the week. Our School is open to the public for an evening of tasting with a presentation of the dishes studied during the week. 17
Regional Cooking Programs PIEMONTE 1 Veal and Piemonte beef L’insalata di carne cruda, il vitello tonnato, il bollito misto, il brasato al barolo and il fritto misto. 2 Plains fare: grain, potato and rice Tajarin, agnolotti, gnocchi, risotto con le rane. The cooking of the plains: riso in cagnone, tapulone 3 Mountain fare La supa barbeta, dundaret, cursetin, trota ai funghi, agnello sambucano. 4 Sauces for fish, vegetables and other specialties La bagna caoda, il merluzzo al verde. Cheeses and truffles of Alba.
EMILIA ROMAGNA 1 Rolled pasta The various shapes: tagliatelle, tagliolini, maltagliati and grattini, pappardelle and stricchetti. 2 Filled pasta The tortellini of Bologna, the cappelletti of Ferrara and the agnolotti of Parma 3 Special fillings Ricotta, chestnut and potato I cappellacci di zucca 4 Oven baked pasta Le lasagne al forno, i cannelloni
MARCHE 1 Coastal fare Il brodetto di pesce, stoccafisso all’anconetana 2 Inland cooking Spelt, lentils and chick-peas Vincesgrassi, stracciatella and passatelli
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3 Game and farmyard animals coniglio in porchetta, pollo in potacchio, vitellone razza marchigiana 4 Cheeses and truffles Pecorino di fossa and tartufo bianco di Acqualagna: their uses and preparations
PUGLIA 1 Grain for bread and hand-made pasta Il grano arso, il grano “stumpato”. The bread of Altamura, of Laterza, of Monte Sant’Angelo. Pasta: orecchiette, strascinati, cavatelli, troccoli. 2 Legumes, vegetables and field greens Dried beans and chick-peas. Cime di rapa, la cicoria catalogna, i lampascioni, i sivoni. 3 Milk and cheese Milk products: fiordilatte, provola, scamorza, burrata, manteca. Cheeses: ricotta marzotica, caciocavallo podolico, canestrato. 4 Bounty from the sea “Il crudo”: trigliette, seppioline, polipetti, cannolicchi, sea urchins and oysters. Sardines and anchovies.
CAMPANIA 1 ‘Sunday’ cooking Gragnano pasta, rice, the San Marzano tomato. Ziti al ragù, paccheri alla genovese, il sartù di riso, il timballo and timpano in crosta.
2 Vegetables and legumes Soups and Minestrone: minestra maritata, minestra di broccoli, fagioli alla maruzzara and zuppa di ceci e castagne. 3 Meat dishes Panzetta di agnello, mugliatelli con patate, il soffritto, costine con papacelle, puntine alla pizzaiola. 4 Fish and “fruits of the sea” The fish of the gulf, Neapolitan salted cod, cheeses, cuoccio alla marinara, piccione alla salsa di frutti di mare, filetto di scorfano al culìs di ceci con cipolle in agrodolce.
LOMBARDIA 1 Freshwater fish Pesce di torrente o di lago in carpione. Luccio in salsa alla mantovana. 2 Rice Ris e erborin Risotto alla milanese Risotto alla “pilota” 3 Pasta Tortelli di zucca alla mantovana Pizzoccheri della Valtellina
4 Meat dishes Ossi buchi in gremolata alla milanese Stracotto di manzo al vino rosso
UMBRIA 1 Starters Bruschette, crostini, pani, torta al testo and “pizze” 2 Soups Zuppe rustiche, minestre di ceci, farro and fagioli Tagliolini, quadrucci, umbrichelli or ciriole and strangozzi. 3 Cooking with truffles The white truffles of Fabbro, Città di Castello, Gubbio and Gualdo Tadino. The black truffles of Norcia and Spoleto. 4 Grilled meats From lamb to boar
TOSCANA 1 Humble cooking Panzanella and fettunta; acquacotta, soup, tomato bread soup; scottiglia, tripe and centopelle. 2 Meats and sauces Beef and pork, la fiorentina and dressed pork products. Meat sauces and crostini. 3 Renaissance cuisine Porrata and maccheroncini di pane; anatra alla frutta and piccione alle mandorle; biancomangiare dolce; cioccolata calda aromatizzata alle spezie. 4 Desserts I cantuccini e i frati fritti, il castagnaccio, le frittelle di riso, la schiacciata, il panforte, i ricciarelli, lo zuccotto
VENETO 1 Salted cod in many versions Il baccalà alla vicentina, il baccalà mantecato, il baccalà alla veneziana. Le polente. 2 Vegetables and legumes The red radicchio tardivo of Treviso and the variegated radicchio of Castelfranco. The Veneto asparagus: various varieties. The beans of Lamon.
3 Traditional Venetian fare Il saòr, a method of conserving: sardines and sogliole in saòr, seasonal vegetables in saòr. Le seppie in nero, i bigoli in salsa. 4 Poultry and lamb La padovana (chicken) and la polverara. The lamb of Alpago.
FRIULI 1 Soups Vegetable and asparagus minestrone, la iota and pumpkin soup 2 Goose and Jewish tradition Goose as an alternative to pork The different ways of preparation: brodo con ciccioli di oca, oven baked goose. 3 Fish Simple fish from the Adriatic Sea. Shellfish and crustaceans. Boreto, insalata di moscardini. 4 Central Europe cuisine A mix of food cultures from Austria, Hungary, and Slovenia.The sweet and the savoury. Cjarsons, il frico, salame nell’aceto, la brisa, gnocchi di susine.
SARDEGNA 1 Pasta and soups Culurgiones (ravioli with ricotta) suppa cuata, fregula cun cocciula, pani frattau. 2 Seafood Anguidda incasada, arangiola a s’oristanese Burrida a sa casteddaia Zimino di ostriche e aragosta. 3 Meats Porceddu arrustiu, angioni in cassola cun cancioffa, busecca sa casteddaia, curcuris a ghisau. 4 Traditional desserts Trigu cottu, gattò (croccante), suppas indorada, seadas.
SICILIA 1 The Arab influence Marinated fish, Favignana tuna, swordfish, capers from Pantelleria and Salina, couscous. 2 Street food Panelle, arancine, sfincione.
Baroque cuisine from Palermo, bucatini con le sarde, bucatini con i broccoli in tegame. La caponata and sweet and sour sauce. 3 Legumes and cheeses Broadbeans from Leonforte, lentils from Ustica. Cheeses: ragusano, pecorino, maiorchino, piacentino, ricotta, vastedda della Valle del Belice. 4 Specialty Desserts La cassata, i cannoli. Biscuits from Ragusa and Catania, chocolate and carob from Ragusa, il gelo di anguria, i sorbetti e le granite.
TRENTINO 1 Mountain soups and starches Soups: orzetto, brò brusà, canederli Bread gnocchi, strangolapreti. 2 Meats and game Lucanica and carne salada. Tonco de pontesel, sguazet La selvaggina: cervo and capriolo 3 Pasture and forest products The vegetables and wild herbs, mushrooms and forest fruits and mountain cheeses. 4 Desserts and apples La torta de fregoloti, il brazadel, lo zelten. Traditional Trentino apple: strudel and fritters
CALABRIA 1 Traditional pasta and meats Tonnarelli, scilatelle, lagane e ceci A tiana, u morzheddu 2 Vegetables, greens, spices Cooking in ashes; methods of preserving in oil 3 The sea Tuna and swordfish 4 Ethnic minorities Albanian, Occitanian and Southern Italian Greek influences
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ne spring morning we leave the house and head towards the
O
hills. Our friend and restaurateur Raul takes us to an olive grove near his restaurant. Armed with his pocket knife which he slips into the ground every time he spies a “good” herb, he shows us how to
mustard), the timo serpillo (wild thyme) that grows on boulders and rocky outcroppings, and crespigne (leaves of the sow thistle) which we will boil with the chicory and then season in a hot skillet with good olive oil and a whisper of fresh garlic. It has been a morning spent learning in nature’s own open-air classroom, in the fields where aromatic herbs and wild greens are spontaneously offered for the taking, to be used in the kitchen in a thousand ways. Once these herbs were gathered and eaten out of poverty, now they are being rediscovered because they give dishes a new lightness. And how do you rate them for their natural taste? And what about their authentic fragrance? All this bounty grows abundantly in nature; it is the chef’s task to wisely use all that she so generously has to offer. Our friend Raul compares these fields so richly endowed to an open “supermarket” and we can’t help but wonder, can a chef ever truly reproduce this universe of fragrances and flavors in his dishes? Can the job of working the ingredients, ably combining them and using the most sophisticated techniques ever allow a chef to reach the quintessential harmony offered spontaneously by nature?
The use of herbs in Italian cooking recognize different varieties of herbs and greens that grow wild in the fields and are good for cooking. Here and there we find young strigoli (catchfly)shoots, with which we’ll make a delicious risotto; over there we see some tender cicoria (chicory greens) just popping up at the first sign of sun; a little further on we gather some pimpinella (salad burnet), excellent in salads with its vague hint of cucumber. We continue our walk through the fields and pick first, some finocchietto selvatico (wild fennel), and then some mentastro (water mint) and menta (wild mint) which will give an excellent and unusual flavour to even the simplest omelette. As our gathering basket starts to fill up, we head back and on the way we stop to collect the leaves and flowers of the senape selvatica (wild 20
Aceto balsamico tradizionale di Reggio Emilia Denominazione di Origine Protetta GARANTITO DAL MINISTERO DELLE POLITICHE AGRICOLE E FORESTALI AI SENSI DELL’ ARTICOLO 10 DEL REG. CEE 2081/92
Prodotto disciplinato dal D.M. 3/3/1987 e da Regolamento della Comunità Europea n°813 / 2000 del 17/4/2000 che sanciscono tra l’ altro : “ …Si ottiene tramite la fermentazione zuccherina e acetica di mosto cotto, previo ottimale invecchiamento in ogni caso NON INFERIORE a 12 ANNI” ..” E’ consentito utilizzare la qualifica EXTRA VECCHIO nella presentazione del prodotto che abbia avuto un invecchiamento NON INFERIORE AI 25 ANNI”
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Per informazioni telefonare a: Consorzio fra produttori di Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia tel e fax 0039 / 0522/ 796294 www.acetobalsamicotradizionale.it e-mail abtre@re.camcom.it
The SAPS Association Professional Cooking Utensils With this issue we will begin publishing a few pages specifically dedicated to cooking methods and professional cooking utensils, the materials with which they are made, their features and best usage for optimal results in the kitchen. This has been made possible thanks to the SAPS Association and the graciousness of Mr. Luca Pelliccioli who also provides a lesson on this topic at each of the Master courses. For us at Slow Food – Master Italian Cooking it is our great pleasure to present these pages because we are convinced that Italian food culture reaches its highest expression, not only through the quality of its ingredients, but also through the use of the right ‘tools’ of the trade. Too often this aspect is considered of secondary importance, but it is an erroneous concept. Our Students experiment with and learn daily how to use kitchen equipment correctly, whether it be in copper, aluminium or stainless steel. The Director Gianfranco Mancini
SAPS Via Madonna - 24040 Lallio (Bg)
e.mail luca.pelliccioli@sapsitalia.com www.sapsitalia.com
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SAPS is a non-profit cultural association with a research center dedicated to professional chefs, students of hotelmanagement schools and amateurs who simply want to learn more about cooking equipment. Before even discussing ingredients and recipes it is important to study the pots and pans themselves, their shape and the materials with which they are made, how they are conceived and what characteristics they must have for optimal results in the kitchen. The SAPS facility consists of a study and research area with a professionally equipped kitchen as well as a dining hall which seats over 60 guests. The building also houses a very special museum dedicated to cooking vessels and implements which faithfully reproduces an early 1900’s workshop with original antique machines and period pieces. The association also organizes courses which are part theory, on history and correct usage and part practical, with interesting demonstrations by highly qualified teachers Federico Coria and Giuseppe Maffioli. It was the aim of its founders that SAPS safeguard and pass
on the wealth of knowledge which it rightly claims on the subject of cooking utensils in the hopes of becoming a training and information center, a place to meet, to have fun, to learn, available to all cooking enthusiasts who care about the culinary arts, the traditions of gastronomy and the pleasures of “eating well”. One of the first things to consider when broaching the subject of professional cooking utensils is the material from which they are made: copper, aluminium, stainless steel, glass, terracotta and so on. It is interesting to see how modern-day man’s values have changed over time. It is a little known odd fact that aluminium was first used in goldsmithing. Considered very valuable, aluminium cutlery was used for important guests at the banquet table of Napoleon III and King Christian X of Denmark even wore a crown fashioned from this metal. Another interesting little tidbit of history from the annals of the Jurisconsults and Notaries of Bologna reveals that copper pots and pans were actually a valuable testamentary bequest.
Professionally speaking, let us consider the main features that distinguish cooking vessels designed for professional use: 1 Ability to conduct heat This is the essential requirement for choosing the most suitable utensil for each preparation. Thermal conductivity is the power of a material to distribute variations in temperature uniformly and quickly and it is expressed in the formula W/m°K. If we take, for example, a cup of hot coffee and place a silver spoon in it, the spoon will get hot in a few seconds whereas a stainless steel spoon will stay cool for a long time. A cooking vessel with an excellent ability to conduct heat will: • Allow efficient temperature control in every cooking phase; • Permit uniform heat distribution on all contact surfaces, both on the bottom W/m°K Material and on the Silver 420.00 sides; 392.00 Copper • Reduce Gold 295.00 the risks of Aluminium 225.00 overheating Tin 67.00 in spots and Iron 60.00 scorching. Stainless steel 16.00 Glass Pyrex Terracotta
1.17 0.80
2 Thickness In order for a material to perform adequately it must have the proper thickness. Professional cooking utensils are characterized by their notable thickness, the ability to withstand heavy use and allow efficient and uniform heat transmission. The thickness varies according to the material. For instance, copper pots and pans ideally require a thickness of 2mm, aluminium from 3 to 5mm, whereas the stainless steel thermal diffusion bottom must be at least 6-7mm thick. 3 Ease of handling Weight can be a problem for professionals who must continually handle utensils that are both large Material S.G. and bulky. Terracotta 2.2 E v e r y Glass Pyrex 2.3 m a t e r i a l Aluminium 2.7 has its Tin 7.3 own spe- Iron 7.8 cific grav- Stainless steel 7.8 ity which Copper 8.9 Silver Gold
10.5 16.7
must be taken into account. Specific gravity is a term of reference to measure the ratio of the mass of a solid or a liquid to the mass of an equivalent volume of distilled water at 4°C, weighing 1 gram. For example, 1 cubic centimeter of aluminium weighs 2.7 grams whilst the same amount of stainless steel weighs 7.8 grams. This means that, given the same size and thickness, a stainless steel pot will weigh three times more than an aluminium one. 4 Energy savings Prolonged use of a heat source adds up to a considerable cost when running a restaurant no matter how large or small. Consequently, it is important to evaluate how using certain materials can reduce this cost. It is worth noting that cooking utensils with a good degree of conductivity require much less time to reach and maintain the right temperature, thus consuming less energy over time. 23
Taste testing our “School of Italian Regional Cooking” tasting techniques applied to different types of products are taught every day. It is essential for every professional chef to sharpen his senses and refine his skills. When we present the topic of olive oil the Students practice recognizing the principal flaws that can be found in oil: mould, rancid, heated, winey, marc. The phases of olive processing in oil-making are explained and emphasis is put on learning what characterizes a good quality oil. Finally, the best combinations are tried, to teach which oil goes best with what kind of dishes and why. Also on the subject of wine the Students learn about the main flaws identifiable by smell: cork, mould, SO2, dregs, vinegar. By tasting and comparing various types of Italian wines, sparkling, white, red, dessert wines, obtained from different vines and produced in several regions, our course attendees gradually learn to distinguish the gustative sensations. When broaching the realm of charcuterie products, salumi, a first question immediately comes to mind: how does a commercially-produced product differ from one prepared
At
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the old-fashioned way? Here is where the Master’s candidates learn to recognize the differences by taste testing and comparing. They sample various types of salumi which have undergone different processes and are at different stages of ageing. In discussing cheeses, the best teaching method is to compare a few commercial examples with some that are locally-produced by artisans in order to understand the differences. Then it is essential to understand the importance of what and how an animal is fed and the consequent influence this has on the milk from which the cheese is made. As regards bread, the Students learn everything from the significance of choosing from among a variety of grains, to all the complexities of yeast and the art of bread rising and baking. In addition they are also taught fundamental notions of making special breads for restaurant use. What knowledge do they come away with at the end of the Master’s Course? To know tasting techniques and to refine the sensory skills is perhaps the central theme of our teaching program and is certainly the basis of the Slow Food philosophy.
The teaching kitchen for daily work activities. New concepts and new sensations to taste and commit to memory. A chef is skill and intellect, sensorial perception and passion: thence the perfect dish.
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A day of celebration
Saturday, March 15th, after the first Master’s course was completed, our School was officially inaugurated. The weather was cold, but the warmth of the well-wishers and enthusiasts lent a festive air to the occasion. The celebration spilled out onto the streets where young actors mimed and played out scenes connected to the world of food.
On
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the end of the evening, during a small convivial gathering, there came the moment for conferral of the “Slow Food - Master Italian Cooking” Diploma and gold snail pin to the Students who had passed the final exam. The menu, prepared by the neo-graduates themselves under the guidance of Chef Marco Giacomelli, one of the course instructors, was served in the splendid ‘Pergolesi Hall’. The center of the room had become the focal point for all manner of quality products on display, from wine to cheese, from chocolate to pasta, from oil to salami and more… jams, marmalades, legumes, various kinds of flour and preserves of all sorts.
At
Sala Pergolesi - 15 marzo 2003 Pane della casa – Arancia rossa di Sicilia Verdure con olio delle Marche Agnolotti col plin, burro e rosmarino dalla tradizione del Piemonte Orecchiette di Puglia con cime di rapa Carne salata del Trentino con mele e verdure glassate Plateau di formaggi dal Trentino, Friuli, Marche e Campania Parfait alla grappa con cioccolato fondente delle Marche Kurokawa Keisuke, Ota Katsuhiro, Weiner Sarah con lo Chef Marco Giacomelli
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Our expert cooks The cooks that will teach at our School represent every region of Italy, have many years of experience and above all, are cultured in the food and drink of their own region. Slow Food signifies not only the rediscovery of a particular territory or the richness and variety of each region, but also means tasting with awareness and attention, finding pleasure in a good spread and defending biodiversity. We have selected about 50 chefs from every corner of Italy, from north to south. Some are experts in pasta, others meat or fish, but all of them share a passion for food and love presenting the cuisine of their own region, researching and collecting the best of what has been created over the centuries.
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Our internship restaurants Upon completion of the tenweek course in Jesi, those who attend the School of Italian Regional Cooking, have the opportunity to take part in internships at Slow Food associated restaurants all over Italy. All the restaurants are topnotch establishments where local cuisine is showcased, using only the freshest and most genuine ingredients and where one can truly learn authentic Italian cooking. We hope to avoid the kind of cooking that puts priority on the appearance and decorative quality of the food. Instead we seek to emphasized natural flavours and the blending of aromas. Internship participants will be able to chose from among the various regions and traditions of the south or of the north as well as specialize in either meat or fish.
To Convivium Leaders
Dear friends, We are delighted to send you our newsletter to communicate that on the 8th of January 2003 our School began its activities with the Slow Food Master Italian Cooking course in Jesi, in the Marche region of central Italy. With this new initiative, Slow Food Italy aims to give valid support to professional chefs from abroad who wish to learn about Italian cooking in a thorough way, focusing on each region. Italy is a country in which the recipes are strongly linked to the traditions, history and people. It is because of the differences between regions that Italian cuisine is so rich and varied. This Slow Food cooking course in Italy will also allow new contacts to be made at an international level and will continue to expand in the future at the University of Pollenzo. To all of you, dear Convivium Leaders, we send you this message along with the names and addresses of those who represent and follow our organizational activities and who can be contacted for further information.
United States of America: Francesco Tonelli (Associate Professor, The Culinary Institute of America) 46 Riverview- Port Ewen 12466-5104 New York, NY USA francesco@francescotonelli.com
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Japan: Tokyo Office HIDE UCHIYAMA Ltd (Ms. Rieko Uchiyama) 2-13-22 ShĂŹmouma, Setagaya-ku Tokyo-JAPAN Florence Office JAPAN PROMO SERVICE (Mr. Aldo Fallani and Ms. Rieko Uchiyama) Via C.Bianchi,18 50134-Firenze, Italy info@jps.it
Korea: Chin-wha Kim (President/CEO, Media International Organization) 3-102 Hyundai Ville, Yonhee Dong 45-23, SoDaiMonn, Seoul Korea 120-823 chinwkim@hotmail.com
Great Britain and Ireland: Wendy Fogarty 40c Strawberry Hill Road Strawberry Hill Twickenham MIDDX TW1 4PU United Kingdom wfogarty@compuserve.com
Australia: Michele Usci (President, Federation of Italian Cooks of Australia) P.O. Box 211 Bullen 3105 Victoria- Australia usci@primus.com.au
A wonderful fish soup:
brodetto he Marche region enjoys
T170km of the Adriatic coast and a sea full of fish, rich and bountiful, among the best in all of the Mediterranean. For centuries the fishermen that lived along the coast had the sea in their veins, for it was from the sea that they had their main source of food, it was with the sea that they often had to do battle and the inexorable ebb and flow of sea was ever present, day and night, in their heads. Obviously the best fish were sold at market while what was left over would be eaten at home. Thus the “brodetto” came into being: a combination of different fish, generally small fry, put together with whatever the family pantry offered - oil, onion or garlic, white wine or vinegar, tomato, a slice of bread. Over time various traditions emerged, each coastal town adopting a certain way of preparing this dish, with many slight variations. The basic recipe was the same for everyone: different kinds of fish (some will say there must be 13, of which cuttlefish, squid, mantis shrimp, smooth dogfish, angler fish, grey mullet, cod, red mullet, small sole, 32
Foto di Piergiorgio Berardi
crustaceans, molluscs…), oil, onion, parsley, tomato, black or red pepper, broth, country-style bread. To describe it this way makes it sound simple, but it isn’t so, for changing just one ingredient can alter the aroma and taste of the dish. Join us in the guessing game: to begin with, should one sauté onion alone or also add a whole crushed clove of garlic? Do we add black pepper the way they do in Fano or red pep-
per as they prefer in San Benedetto? In Ancona they put in vinegar and then let it evaporate or is it better to use white wine? In Porto Recanati they use wild saffron, or is tomato better? Should the bread be toasted first or not? As you can see, the traditions differ from town to town and the dish may present small and subtle variations which give it a pleasant richness and lend a sumptuous quality.
Electrolux Group The world’s No. 1 choice
A course designed to teach the taste of Italy, region by region. A course reserved for chefs from all over the world who prepare Italian food. A course that looks at the historical roots of the regional cooking of Italy: from the Alps to the Mediterranean and from the Tyrrhenian to the Adriatic Sea. A course to know the producers of quality food (pasta, wine, cheese, olive oil, meat products...) and the gastronomic culture of each region. A diploma that requires hard work and study, with the chance to do a specialty internship in one or several Regions at the end of the Course.