Zagreb In Your Pocket No75

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Zagreb Spring 2014

Spring is here!

Along with a fresh new look to the In Your Pocket city guide

Story Competition Search for the next Updike, Poe or King with In Your Pocket

Stanko Abadžić A colourful conversation with a black and white maestro

N°75 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

The editor’s choice on what not to miss this spring

Arrival & Getting around

6

Land ahoy! Planes, Trains & Automobiles

City Basics

8

Basic tips

Culture & Events

10

Interesting and boring stuff included

Zagreb Pulse

24

Meet Stanko Abadžić

Restaurants

26

Enjoy the riches

Local Flavour

32

Fresh and allways a buzz!

Coffee & Cakes

35

Sightseeing

Easily the best scene in the world!

Nightlife

Be kind rewind - Art Clubbing Spring has arrived and in the city a handful of new activities are taking place. If you wish to expand your circle of friends, take a look at our category Mingling on page 21. Spring, of course, is the perfect time for shopping and we recommend a visit to the Fashion Fair Zone 45 this May. Find out more info on page 19

40

All those things you musn’t miss 37

When you just gotta boogie

Seventies Style

46

Spirit of 76

Daily trip

49

On the Tesla Trail

Shopping

50

Helping you get rid of that extra cash

Weekend Adventure

57

Big Game Fishing, Karlovac

Hotels

58

A place to rest your weary head

Directory

60

The most essential support

Maps & Index

The way they used to wash cars in Zagreb when there was no car wash! Get to know Zagreb in the 70’s on page 46

facebook.com/zagreb

Street register Transport map City centre map City map Country map

62 63 64-65 66 67 Spring 2014

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Foreword Avid readers, you may well notice the newly adapted IYP format as we continue to try and spruce up your reading with each edition. Spring is upon us and besides seeing the fresh buds blooming, life in Zagreb also blossoms with lots of concerts and exhibitions to peruse at your leisure.

This edition has a special article on 1970s Zagreb and the cafes, clubs, and restaurants that wooed city folk throughout that exciting period. We introduce the famous Croatian photographer Stanko Abadžić and take a sneak peek into his opus. For all our bypassing tourists we tell you why we highly recommend a zzzzapping trip to Smiljan, the birthplace of Nikola Tesla. And if you’re in the mood for a weekend adventure, check out our special on Big-Game fishing, a wet n wild treat for all. So tuck in and enjoy all the seasonal highlights on offer in our new spring edition.

QR CODE This QR code contains the website address, http://www.inyourpocket. com/croatia/zagreb for Zagreb In Your Pocket: and a user having a camera phone equipped with the correct reader software can scan this image of the QR Code causing the phone’s browser to launch and redirect to the programmed URL. Save the image andprint it out any way you want.

COVER STORY Stanko Abadžić is one of the most famous Croatian photographers. On the cover of this issue is his photo, No Customers Yet, Zagreb, 2010. Find out more about Stanko and his work in Zagreb Pulse.

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1333-2732 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Zagreb In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sv. Nedelja, published 4 times per year Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Reasearcher/Public relations Anita Marinić Design Maja Knezić PhotographyZagreb InYour Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Stanko Abadžić “No customers yet“, Zagreb, 2010 Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Anita Marinić, Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić zagreb@inyourpocket.com

Have you been taken back to the past in a time machine or can you actually see the characters from stories told long time ago standing right next to you? Everything is here: a nostalgic song, a bunch of ¾owers and the times we brought back to the streets of Zagreb because of you… www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

This international street festival turns Zagreb into an all-out party place. Be sure to join in on the fun! www.cestisdbest.com

Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Croatia’s largest open-air music event, placed on the list of 50 best festivals in the world. Check it out!

ABOUT IYP It’s now 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 100 cities across the continent (with Gudauri, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, wellwritten and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We will be expanding even further this year, with the publication of a guide to Johannesburg: our first outside of Europe.

www.inmusicfestival.com

Fill your hearts with the spirit of Advent as the city streets, squares and parks are adorned with Christmassy delights.

Treat yourself with Advent in Zagreb! www.adventzagreb.com

To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD 4

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www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr tel. + 385 (0)1 481 40 51

Arrival & Getting Around

BY BUS The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that’s open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is a currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall.

Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn.

Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 50kn to get to the centre.

Arrival & Getting Around If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 30kn.

PLESO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (ZRAČNA LUKA PLESO) QPleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagrebairport.hr.

MAIN TRAIN STATION (GLAVNI KOLODVOR) QC-4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hzpp.hr.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

BY TRAIN Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec

MAIN BUS STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR) QE-4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr.

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Zagreb In Your Pocket

BUSES A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture or at www.zet.hr.

The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage.Qtel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, www.zet.hr.

STREET PARKING/SMS PARKING

BY PLANE Pleso International Airport is located 17km out of town.

Its small size makes the airport easily to get around; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: directly outside international arrivals, there is a Zagrebačka banka office complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 21:00) and ATM. In the departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours.

Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing room, but do note that the ones on the top floor are less crowded. Getting to Town: Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus service from Pleso International to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Pleso Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly.Therefore, we recommend you pre-book online prior to your arrival. Simply log onto www. ekotaxi.hr and your taxi ride will be waiting for you with prices and comfort second to none.

Eko taxi, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/(+385-) 060 77 77, rezervacija@ekotaxi.hr, www.ekotaxi.hr.

TRAMS Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) run from 23:50 - 04:30. Schedules can be found at www.zet.hr/tramvaj/.aspx. Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and 15kn for the night rides (00:00 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while daily tickets are 30kn. Tickets are available from the driver, on kiosks or ZET stores. Children under six ride free. Validate your ticket once you board: an unvalidated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting caught without one is an embarrassing and costly experience, with inspectors operating on a random schedule.Qtel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/ (+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr.

TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station, at the Main Train Station and Lotršćak Tower.QC-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@zagrebtouristinfo.hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

From June Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

ZAGREB COUNTY TOURIST BOARD QC-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Zagreb.inyourpocket.com

There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 8kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 4kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 2kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 4 hours. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or overrun your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 160, 80 or 30kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office. From 01.04 there will possibly be changes in the cost of parking. It’s expected to decrease by 25-50%. facebook.com/zagreb

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City Basics CUSTOMS

VISAS

As Croatia entered the EU on July 1, there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Since Croatia has become a new member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy became fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states need a visa to enter Croatia also.

Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia.

DISABLED TRAVELLERS Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings.

In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

ELECTRICITY The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

MONEY There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day.

Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

ROADS When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

TOILETS You ‘had to go’ forty-five minutes ago... now your sweat and tear-stained face of utter desperation lets those you pass in the streets know that the situation has moved from bad to worse. Let’s face it, we’ve all been there. Unfortunately, public toilets or WCs (pronounced ‘vay-say’) are few and far between being clean and free. Your best bet is to find and use one inside the shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat at a café, order yourself a beverage and then hustle through the appropriate door - gospoda or muški for men, dame or ženski for women.

WATER Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy. The main building for ER is located in Heinzelova Street 88 (K-3) where everything necessary will be done or you will be taken to the nearest hospital if need. In case of an accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385-1) 1987.

BASIC DATA Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612, Zagreb (April 2011): 792,875 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina.

Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure!

Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited.

Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a distance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country.

Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

Dubrovnik and Neretva County Tourist Board 8

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Spring 2014

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Culture & Events ROCK & POP 11.04 FRIDAY PSIHOMODO POP One of Croatia’s heavyweights when it comes to pop punk rock with a commercial edge! The band is celebrating a mega 30 year career and always delivers the goods to their cult fan base. The event is also in promotion of their latest album and hit single ‘Donna’ that has been topping the Croatian music charts for weeks.QH-3, Dom sportova Sports Centre, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11. Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 70kn.

11.04 FRIDAY THE NOTWIST Yet another smashing performance awaits fanws with the bands fourth round appearance after selling out all their previous gigs over the years. Formed in 1989, this German indie rock band is famous for their authentic dreamy sound, cleverly combining modern pop with jazz, RnR and electronic music of recent.QI-3, Močvara Club, Trnjanski nasip bb, press@zednouho.org, zednouho.tumblr.com.

Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 80 - 100kn.

12.05 MONDAY EVERLAST Erik Francis Schrody, better known by his stage name Everlast, is a New York based rapper, singer and songwriter and is probably best known as the front-man for the legendary rap band House of Pain. His Baptism of Fire to our city will see him perform songs from his latest album ‘The Life Acoustic’, as well as old hits such as ‘Jump Around’ or ‘What It’s Like’.QE-3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www. tvornicakulture.com. Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 130 - 150kn.

02.06 MONDAY NEUTRAL MILK HOTEL This legendary American indie rock band formed in the late 1980s by singer and lyricist Jeff Magnum. They are known for their eclectic and experimental sound and as part of their reunion tour; all fans of independent indie rock sound ought to fasten up their seatbelts for this amazing musical treat.QE-3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture.com. Concert starts at 21:00.

Tickets 140 - 160kn.

aakash odedra RISING (Photo by Chris Nash)

Culture & Events DISCOVER THE WEEK OF CONTEMPORARY DANCE 10 Zagreb In Your Pocket

11.06 WEDNESDAY SUUNS Yet another Canadian sensation rock act hits town as recognised by both critics and audiences globally. These gents who derive from Montreal are set to pound out their amazingly creative and futuristic rock style of music at the joy of their numerous fans as they once again hail the stage in Zagreb.QI-3, Močvara, Trnjanski nasip bb, www.mochvara.hr. Starts at 21:30. Tickets 65 - 80kn.

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15.06 SUNDAY GOGOL BORDELLO Sure, they’ve been here, came and conquered - but it obviously wasn’t enough. This Gypsy punk band from the Lower East Side of Manhattan will bring the curtains down and again wow the Zagreb audience with their theatrics and unique musical funk, ethno, Latino fusionQE-3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture.com.

Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 130 - 170kn.

Cassandra Wilson

The Zagreb Centre for Dance is home to the organising committee for this festival, held (26.05 - 15.06), dedicated to all lovers of dance, regardless of preferred genre.

If we were to list all the styles of dance which will be on show, we would take up more than a few pages. Needless to say that there will almost definitely be something to suit all tastes (and if not then speak to the organisers and see if something can’t be arranged for future years). Past festivals have been eclectic indeed, with last year’s festival having over 30 distinct showcases playing at varying locations around Zagreb, Karlovac, and Rijeka. Included are also a number of symposia, with noted choreographers and dancers, examining the evolution of dance, its past, its future, and other themes within the art. Equally accessibly to aficionados and those who simply appreciate a good performance. QVarious locations across Zagreb, tel. (+385-1) 464 11 54, www.danceweekfestival.com.

16.06 MONDAY DROPKICK MURPHY’S The banjo, the bagpipes and the tin whistle can only mean one thing - IRISH!! Indeed, and this American/ Irish punk outfit bring their gut wrenching, raw on stage power performance to Zagreb for the second time. The green clover is back and boy o boy do these seven lads know how to rock.QD-1, Šalata, Schlosserove stube 2.

Tickets 170kn.

JAZZ&BLUES 09.04 WEDNESDAY - 11.04 FRIDAY JAZZ.HR/SPRING 2014 One of the ‘must sees’ in your April Calendar! Day one hast the acclaimed American jazz trumpeter and composer Charles Tolliver who is joined on stage by a quintet of famous jazz musicians, including our very own saxophonist Saša Nestorović. The second day is reserved for two Croatian reputable ensembles, the Zagreb Jazz Portrait and the Acoustic project, with their very distinctive musical style, classical meets jazz. And the finale sees Charles Tolliver and Jazz Orchestra recreating John Coltrane’s African/ Brass.QI-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.jazz.hr.

22.05 THURSDAY GERI ALLEN SOLO As a renowned composer, educator, jazz pianist and voice of African-American culture since the early ‘80s, Geri Allen has earned world recognition for her own style of modern mainstream jazz, spanning various genres from bop to free jazz. Her stunning portfolio has seen her coincide with Ron

CABARET 12.04 SATURDAY CABARET CHISHCHE LISHCHE – KEREMPUH THEATRE NIGHT STAGE The launch of the theatrical five-piece cabaret band Chische Lishche by the actors of the Kerempuh Theatre in 2010 has been delighting the Zagreb audience ever since. With their witty, inspiring and humorous performances and musical arrangements, such as the hilarious Lady Gaga in a rock, punk or reggae version, patrons are literally left in stitches!QB-2, Kerempuh Theatre, Ilica 31, tel. (+385-1) 483 33 47, www. kazalistekerempuh.hr. Starts at 23:00. Tickets 80kn. facebook.com/zagreb

Carter, Ravi Coltrane, The Supremes, Dianne Reeves, Bill Cosby and many others.QI-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski. hr. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100kn.

18.06 WEDNESDAY A NIGHT OF BLUES What a line up! See the likes of Zakiya Hooker (daughter of blues legend John L Hooker) who will be partnered by one of the world’s best soul singers Chris James (has performed with the likes of Kool and the Gang, and Earth, Wind, and Fire). They will be accompanied by the award winning pianist and saxophonist John Lee Sanders and German guitarist Frank Folgmann. Our very own Croatian Radio/Television Jazz Orchestra joins this striking international guest list.QB-1, Tuškanac Summer Stage, www.jazz.hr.

CLASSICAL MUSIC 22.03 SATURDAY BBC PHILHARMONIC Come watch Austrian percussionist, Martin Grubinger, as he plays along with one of the most prestigious European orchestras, the BBC Philharmonic. Conducted by Juanjo Spring 2014

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13.05 TUESDAY - 16.05 FRIDAY FESTIVAL MUSICA MAXIMA 6 Classical music at its best! An international chamber music festival which is a result of years of cooperation between the ‘Russian Paganini’ Maxim Fedotov, and the leader of the Zagreb Chamber Orchestra, Mladen Dervenkar. One can expect performances by a number of prominent Croatian and international musicians, including Sergei Roldugin, Aiman Musakhodzhaeva, Peter Fedotov, Galina Petrova, M. Leskovar, and many others.QB-3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, www.zko.hr.

17.05 SATURDAY JULIJA LEZHNEVA AND IL GIARDINO ARMONICO ENSEMBLE At the tender age of 24, the Russian soprano Julia Lezhneva has already become a worldwide sensation with her impeccable and angelic voice. In her first Zagreb performance, she will be joined by the Italian early music ensemble Il Giardino Armonico, consisting of technically superior musicians and their always amazing and delightful presentations of classical music scores.QI-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@ lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 120 - 200kn.

Dropkick Murphys INmusic Festival Archives

Mena, listen to the serene sounds of these skilled musicians as they perform the Mendelssohn ‘Scottish’ symphony.QI-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 160 - 240kn.

23.04 WEDNESDAY BUDAFOKI DOHNÁNYI ZENEKAR Spring brings another musical treat for all lovers of classical music with the renowned Hungarian Budafoki Dohnányi Zenekar Orchestra as accompanied by famous violinist Kristóf Baráti and conductor Gabor Hollerung. The program will include works by some of the greats of classical music, Antonin Dvorak and the most famous violin virtuoso of all time Niccolò Paganini.QI-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.kdz.hr. Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 60 - 100kn.

10.05 SATURDAY ZAGREB PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA Founded in 1871 and is one of Croatia’s most renowned orchestras, its history includes numerous distinguished conductors such as Friedrich Zaun, Alexander Rahbari and most recently the famous Russian Dmitri Kitayenko who will be conducting at this concert. Croatia’s famous female cellist, the remarkable Monika Leskovar will play several compositions by the classical great Tchaikovsky.QI-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.zgf.hr. Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 60 - 120kn.

12 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Vlasta Delimar

Culture & Events

26.05 MONDAY BELGRADE PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA One of the Serbia’s finest and most renowned orchestras will perform works by famous 20th century American composers Leonard Bernstein, Samuel Barber as well as Russian composer Sergei Rachmaninoff. The concert will be conducted by Muhai Tang, featuring the prominent Georgian artist Liana Isakadze on violin.QI-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.zgf. hr. Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 60 - 120kn.

OPERA 26.04 SATURDAY W.A.MOZART - COSÌ FAN TUTTE (METROPOLITAN IN LISINSKI) A live transmission of Mozart’s miraculous and beloved opera with the theme of ‘fiancé swapping’, or better still, testing the bond of love, direct from the Metropolitan Opera. The famous James Levine conducts in his long-awaitZagreb.inyourpocket.com

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Culture & Events ed performance, with the cast of young Met stars such as Susanna Phillips and Isabel Leonard who sing the role of nurses Fiordiligi and Dorabella, together with Matthew Polenzani and Rodion Pogossov playing their lovers.QI-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Starts at 19:00. Tickets 100kn.

with the master of bel canto Juan Diego Flórez as her dashing Prince Charming. Other cast members include Pietro Spagnoli, Alessandro Corbelli and Luca Pisaroni.QI-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Starts at 19:00.

Tickets 100kn.

11.05 SUNDAY G. ROSSINI – LA CENERATOLLA (CINDERELLA) (METROPOLITAN IN LISINSKI) Directed by Cesare Liev and conducted by the Met’s principal conductor Fabio Luisi, one of Rossini’s finest operas will see a performance of Joyce Di Donato in the title role,

DANCE 21.04 MONDAY - 29.04 TUESDAY PLATFORMA.HR Join the mix of choreographers, dance artists and groups that unite to present their experiences, ideas and indi-

VLASTA DELIMAR 15.05 THURSDAY - 24.08 SUNDAY VLASTA DELIMAR AT THE MSU Ask the average Croat about artist Vlasta Delimar and the chances are that most of them will say “isn’t she the one whose always taking her clothes off ?”. It’s an understandable comment: artists who have used their own naked bodies in the course of their art will always be associated in the popular mind with the nudity itself, rather than its context. Indeed it takes a certain courage for an artist to stand out like this, and it is the courage of the performer that Walk like Lady Godiva 2001 comes across more than anything in Vlasta Delimar: to sam ja (“Vlasta Delimar: That’s Me”), the career-spanning retrospective that runs in Zagreb’s Contemporary Art Museum (MSU) from May 15 to August 24. First coming to prominence in the late Seventies, Delimar has helped to define Croatian multimedia and performance art over the last three or four decades. In many ways her career should be viewed in parallel with that of her lifelong friend Tomislav Gotovac (1937-2010), the pioneer of making-a-spectacle-of-oneself-in-public who famously ran naked down Zagreb’s main street in his 1981 performance Zagreb, I Love You!, periodically lying down to kiss the asphalt as he went.

Many of Delimar’s performances were personal reflections on Gotovac’s work. In Walkthrough as Lady Godiva (2001), she rode naked through Zagreb on a white horse.

In For Two Men and a Woman (2009), Delimar and her partner Milan Božić teamed up with Gotovac himself to walk naked (or at least almost naked) along the same street that Gotovac famously puckered up to 18 years earlier. Lurking in the background of all of Delimar’s 14 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Lauer Delimar Bozic

work is the rather obvious point that it’s a lot more daring for a woman to do this kind of art than it is for a man - not least in a patriarchal country like Croatia. Ultimately nudity is Delimar’s way of examining issues of femininity, male-female relations, and the key stages of the female life-cycle: from youthful lusts to love, partnership, motherhood, the realization that your are getting on a bit. Much of her work is invariably autobiographical - “My work is my diary”, she once said in an interview.

As photographs in the MSU retrospective reveal, a lot of Delimar’s most famous performances took place in the streets, unannounced, to an audience of random passers-by. One of the novelties of the show is that it will put her activities in a big-gallery context: during the exhibition Delimar will take up residence in the gallery in an improvised living and working space, and take part in a work called Poziv na druženje (“An Invitation to Hang Out”), in which she will talk about art with a group of guests in a number of different locations: in the gallery,

Treba vjerovati muškarcima 2003

in the museum foyer, or next to the nearest bus stop.

“Vlasta Delimar: to sam ja” runs from May 15 to August 24QJ-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr.

Jonathan Bousfield

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Culture & Events

Culture & Events at the orange juice container? Because the jar said concentrate. What do you call a basement full of blondes? A whine cellar. Along with these famous blonde jokes, stereotypes are all around us and sometimes we are unaware of the prejudices behind them. This exhibition looks at the various social views behind these stereotypes.QB-3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr.

Charles Tolliver

25.03 TUESDAY - 27.04 SUNDAY THE T-HT PRIZE (T-HTNAGRADA@MSU.HR) Contemporary artists listen in as for the 7th year running the Museum of Contemporary Art and T-HT (Croatian Telecom) are organizing a course competition with a focus on multimedia productions using picture and sound - it entails video, experimental film, internet art, robotic and electronic art. A foreign jury will select the best works to be presented.QJ-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. vidual dance approaches through shows, workshops and lectures. Creativity is the key and this really is the meet and greet of the regional dance scene.QJedinstvo Factory, Trnjanski nasip bb; Tala Dance Centre, Božidara Magovca 50; Močvara, Trnjanski nasip bb; Cvjetni trg, davorka@tala.hr, www.tala.hr.

EXHIBITIONS 20.06 2013 THURSDAY - 18.05 2014 SUNDAY GNALIĆ - THE TREASURE OF THE SUNKEN SHIP In 1967, a 16th century merchant ship was found 30 meters below sea level near the island of Gnalić. Discover the cargo brought onboard this ship in Venice as it prepared for its voyage to presentday Istanbul. The exhibition will feature decorative objects, such as glasses, ceramic dishes and chandeliers, as well as bronze cannons, featuring the Venetian Coat of Arms, found among the wreckage.

QB-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, hismus@ hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr.

22.10 2013 TUESDAY - 02.05 2014 FRIDAY BLOND JOKE - STEREOTYPES WE LIVE BY We’ve all heard the blonde jokes. Why did the blonde stare

LONG FRIDAY The Lenuci Horseshoe represents a U shape of city gardens, neo-classical buildings and squares. This interesting art project is beside Park Zrinjevac and joins the Archaeological Museum, Art Pavilion and Modern Gallery. Due to their close vicinity, all three venues will be opening their doors to visitors on the last Friday of each month from 19:00 to 22:00 at the symbolic price of 10kuna per ticket and children up to the age of seven have free entry. Visitors can view the permanent and special exhibitions at all three venues.

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Mini Morris’ 55th Anniversary Exhibition, 20.03-20.05 (The Ferdinand Budicki Automobile Museum Archives

27.03 THURSDAY - 15.10 WEDNESDAY AT YOUR SERVICE – THE ART AND WORLD OF WORK Another day, another dollar! Well this exhibit takes a 360 degree turn on ‘work’ through the perspective of various Vienna artists. Artworks and discussions raise issues of change in the workplace, flexibility versus mobile work to work as a privilege or burden and so on. Visitors will be faced with views of all sorts, various works of art and can also participate in the issues which the artists’ had set before them.QA-4, Technical Museum, Savska cesta 18, info@tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr.

15.04 TUESDAY - 01.06 SUNDAY NASTA ROJC - RETROSPECTION Celebrating 131 years since the birth (1883) and the 50th anniversary (1964) since the death of one of Croatia’s gems of Modern Art, this retrospective exhibition will include 100 paintings by Nasta Rojc from numerous museums and private collections. She is best known for her wonderful landscape and amazing portraits.QC-3, Art Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, info@umjetnicki-paviljon.hr, www. umjetnicki-paviljon.hr.

29.04 TUESDAY - 25.05 SUNDAY JOSIP TROSTMANN - LET THERE BE LIGHT Born in 1938 Dubrovnik, this famous colourist has for fifty years been creating art of breathtaking beauty - capturing the brilliant light, colours and an almost Arcadian atmosphere of ‘Mediterranea’. More than 80 paintings of abstract expressions will be exhibited portraying Trotsmann as the stalwart of new landscape painting in Croatian modern art.QC-3 Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1, www.moderna-galerija.hr.

17.06 TUESDAY - 25.08 MONDAY IZNIK - OTTOMAN CERAMICS FROM THE DEPTHS OF THE ADRIATIC If you appreciate nautical history, then come and see the ins and outs of a sunken Venetian merchant ship found near the island of Mljet. The cargo stems from the Turkish city of Iznik and includes pottery highly acclaimed throughout the 16th century. With luxurious tableware, bronzed cannon balls, metal ware, Turkish and Venetian coins, as well as other inventory found on board, visitor can step in back in time to when East meets West.QB3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, www.mimara.hr.

SPECIAL EVENTS 13.04 SUNDAY - 29.09 MONDAY THE ZAGREB TIME MACHINE Step back in time to the days of old Zagreb style, stroll to Zrinjevac Park and each Saturday you can take pleasure in waltz, operettas, Italian canzone, jazz and more. From Tkalčićeva Street to the Cathedral, delve into some tradiCabaret Chishche Lishche

07.04 MONDAY - 10.05 SATURDAY PETER LINDBERGH - IMAGES OF WOMEN AND THE UNKNOWN Over 150 photos from two separate series by one of the greatest living artists of today! Lindbergh has left an impeccable mark on fashion photography and this European exhibition will showcase his works from the late 80’s and 90’s that celebrate femininity, as well anonymous people, all stamped with Lindbergh’s signature artistry and compelling beauty.QE-3, HDLU, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, hdlu@hdlu.hr, www.hdlu.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Mon Closed. Admission 40kn. Children under 6 free. Family daily ticket (4 persons) 100kn.

Zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Cest is d’ best (Photo by Galinovi Andro)

tional foods through song and folklore. The Upper Town dazzles with costumed characters that have come back to life and giving visitors an insight into the way life... once was!

The Tourist Information Centre has all the details as events vary throughout the morning and afternoon.QTrg bana Josipa Jelačića, Dolac, Zrinjevac and Maksimir Park, Upper Town, Tkalčićeva, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr.

21.04 MONDAY - 28.09 SUNDAY THE CHANGING OF THE GUARD A Croatian regiment named ‘The Royal Cravats’ joined the French Army in the 17th century and in their honour, every weekend at midday you can see a two hour ceremony

VIP ZAGREB JAZZ FESTIVAL What a feat! This is the events 10th consecutive year and will be a jubilee of jazz. Over 15 concerts will be held throughout the year at different city locations. See some amazing local and international stars including Cassandra Wilson (8 April)/ Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, Amira Medunjanin (15 & 16 May) the Carla Bley Trio (5 June) and the legendary Dee Dee Bridgewater (14 June), just to name a few.Qwww. vipzagrebjazzfestival.com. facebook.com/zagreb

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Culture & Events which begins with the ‘Preparation of the Guard and Arms Inspection’. March from St Marks Square to other city sites amongst some of the finest well dressed guards, drummers, flag-bearers and trumpeters.QGornji grad, Kaptol, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, Dolac, Tkalčićeva, www. zagreb-touristinfo.hr.

22.04 TUESDAY NEW CIRCUS FESTIVAL - FET A MÀ – CRU A combination of physical theatre and dramatic acrobatics, the show entitled ‘Rough’ presents circus artistry as you’ve never seen before. The remarkable Catalan artists take the audience into a plethora of complicated malefemale relationships, filled with raw emotion, passion, rejection and surrender.QC-2, Zagreb Youth Theatre, Ulica Nikole Tesle 7, www.cirkus.hr.

23.04 WEDNESDAY - 27.04 SUNDAY DESIGN WEEK ZAGREB For the very first time in Croatia, welcome to a series of events and gatherings not only for designers, but art historians, economists, journalists and the general public alike.

Lectures, exhibitions, workshops and awards will draw public attention as a promotion of creativity and invention. The program consists of three core events: Auto(r) - the biggest automotive design conference in Europe, Judgement Day - an independent festival of creative communication and Produkteka.QH-3, Lauba - The House for People and Art, Prilaz baruna Filipovića 23a.

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Culture & Events 23.04 WEDNESDAY - 26.04 SATURDAY THE 2ND SHOWCASE OF A CONTEMPORARY SOUND With its openness to new, experimental and technologically developed contemporary sounds, this music festival is slowly cementing its place as an event which brings a breath of fresh air to the Croatian contemporary music scene. Its open and unlimited concept with no specific genres and musical styles makes it both unconventional yet very creative. Stay tuned for line-up announcements.

QB-4, Student’s Centre, Savska cesta 25, www.sczg. unizg.hr.

25.04 FRIDAY - 11.05 SUNDAY THE 16TH SAINT MARK’S FESTIVAL Followers of classical music and in particular chamber and sacral music will be able to see renowned soloists and ensembles from Croatia and abroad. Concerts are held at various venues and churches in the city’s Upper and Lower Town.QVarious locations across Zagreb, festivalsv-marka@zg.t-com.hr, www.festivalsvmarka.hr.

03.05 SATURDAY - 17.05 SATURDAY 7TH SUBVERSIVE FESTIVAL - THE POWER AND FREEDOM IN THE AGE OF CONTROL-NETWORK - IDEOLOGY – ALTERNATIVES One event which brings to the table modern day issues in society including invasion of privacy, capitalism as well as current themes such as violence in the Ukraine. The event

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is a melting pot for local and international intellectuals, scientists, artists, filmmakers, activists… Lots of workshops, lectures and a music programme with activist and charismatic Rachid Tahu leading the way.QEuropa Cinema, Varšavska 3; Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2.

pianist and composer of post-classical chamber music VolkerBertelmann Hauschka. See alternative American country band Wovenhand as well as electronic producer Matthew Barnes aka Forest Swords...Q&TD Theatre, Savska cesta 25; Močvara, Trnjanski nasip bb, www.zednouho.tumblr.com.

09.05 FRIDAY - 11.05 SUNDAY REGIONAL FASHION FAIR ZONE 45 The fifth edition of the central fashion fair in the region will once again bring together fashion designers and fashion industry representatives and buyers from different countries, as well as open their doors to the public on Ban Jelačić Square. For all the fashionistas and fashion aficionados, get ready for yet another spectacular fashion event.

QC-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, www.zona45.hr.

22.05 THURSDAY - 24.05 SATURDAY ZAGREB ROCKERS Ready to rock! From hillbilly, to ethno and punk rock, there is an assortment of rock to be heard. This year’s event features some of Zagreb’s best rock acts such as Johnny and the Rockin Tunes, Rockheads, Bad Mushrooms, and Picksiebners just to name a few. The acorns along the trees in Park Ribnjak will have their stalks trrrremblingQD-1, Park Ribnjak, totalrockworld2009@gmail.com.

17.05 SATURDAY - 24.05 SATURDAY THE 8TH ZAGREB JEWISH FILM FESTIVAL - FESTIVAL OF TOLERANCE It isn’t Hollywood or Bollywood but this popular film festival serves its purpose in promoting Jewish film, themes and culture. It’s steered by the festival’s president and double Oscar winner Mr Branko Lustig. Be sure to stay tuned for session details!QEuropa Cinema, Varšavska 3; Tuškanac Cinema, Tuškanac 1, info@jff-zagreb.hr, www.jff-zagreb.hr.

23.05 FRIDAY - 15.09 MONDAY STROSSMARTRE - THE 14TH SUMMER ON STROSS Embark on a journey towards the Strossmayer Promenade, next to the Lotrščak Tower and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the range of music, film, theatre, fine art and entertainment on offer.

The programme is daily with kick off before midday as the festival runs into the evening. Totally romantic, totally free!QB-2, Strossmayer Promenade, Upper Town, www.ljetonastrosu.com.

20.05 TUESDAY - 31.05 SATURDAY GRIČEVANJE What used to be a winter festival inspired by old Zagreb legends of the Grič witches, it was at last year’s edition that Gričevanje embraced spring as its home base. This year’s festival is expanding to the locations of Gradec and Tuškanac. Lots of good drinks, food and dare we say witchlike spells will be on hand amongst concerts soon to be announced. Free entry for all!QGradec and Tuškanac Plateau, www.gricevanje.com.

30.05 FRIDAY AS A GIFT TO THE CITY OF ZAGREB As a gift to the City of Zagreb and to all subscribers of the Zagreb Philharmonic Orchestra, the famous Croatian orchestra will hold a concert celebrating the official Day of the City of Zagreb with a true musical treat: Mozart’s Sinfonia Concertante for Four Winds in E-fla K-297b and Mendelssohn Bartholdy’s bestknown work, Overture and incidental music from ‘A Midsummer Night’s Dream’. Conducted by Uroš Lajovic.QI-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.zgf.hr.

21.05 WEDNESDAY - 24.05 SATURDAY ŽEDNO UHO FESTIVAL Lend an ear, send a cheer, and have a beer as this festival literally has no boundaries. With the aim of promoting the independent international and regional music scene, punters can revere to free jazz, rock, punk, as well as modern and electronic music. The festival will be opened by the DKV Trio, dubbed the most creative free jazz act in the world, followed by German

30.05 FRIDAY - 15.06 SUNDAY SCREEN ON THE GREEN The popular green screen phenomenon happening in cities around the world has finally come to Zagreb. The Open Air Festival of Films will take place in the most popular parks around the city. Film screenings are free of charge and visitors can enjoy some of the most famous films from around the world. So, pick up a blanket and some snacks

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Culture & Events

Culture & Events and producers in the field.QEuropa Cinema, Varšavska 3; Cineplexx Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17; Tuškanac Cinema, Tuškanac 1; ULUPUH Gallery, Tkalčićeva 14; Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, info@ animafest.hr, www.animafest.hr.

05.06 THURSDAY - 12.06 THURSDAY 18TH CEST IS D’ BEST Annual street festival packed with free concerts, circus attractions, dance, art shows plus much more. According to tradition, it is the audience that gets involved and participates.QC-1, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, Cvjetni trg, www. cestisdbest.com.

05.06 THURSDAY - 07.06 SATURDAY ZAGREB TOURFILM FESTIVAL A staggering film and documentary anthology shot in the most must-see of Croatian tourist spots, this wonderful and original initiative aims at promoting tourism in a most refreshing way. While motivating travel promoters, the films also inspire any spectator with the country’s ‘lost pearls,’ just waiting to be discovered.QB-3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosevelta 5, www.zagrebtourfilm.com.

Peter Lindbergh

and come lounge in the park with your loved ones. Watch a movie under the stars for a unique, new experience.

QTrg dr. Franje Tuđmana, Maksimir Park, Jarun, info@ viasolis.hr, www.screen.com.hr.

03.06 TUESDAY - 08.06 SUNDAY WORLD FESTIVAL OF ANIMATED FILM - ANIMAFEST ZAGREB Are you passionate about animation? This is the second oldest festival of its kind in Europe which attracts intriguing world animations. With awards, pitching forums and the advocacy of animation essential to the event, it is of no wonder that it’s a magnet for known and wannabe authors

FOR THE KIDS 11.04 FRIDAY - 16.04 WEDNESDAY THE 14TH INTERNATIONAL NAJ, NAJ, NAJ FESTIVAL Something for the kids as this festival, which was established in 2001 has consistently aimed at presenting the very best stage productions pertaining to all professional children’s theatre groups in Croatia. Not to be missed and as a bonus all shows are free.QJ-2, Žar Ptica City Theatre, Bijenička 97, tel. (+385-1) 234 72 26, www.zar-ptica.hr.

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11.06 WEDNESDAY - 15.06 SUNDAY ACCORDION FEST IN ZAGREB Five world famous accordionists, along with pupils, students, duets and orchestras, all who are lovers of the accordion, will play at Zrinjevac for five days. Come and get your polka on and be serenaded at this spectacular event.

QC-2, Zrinjevac Park.

15.06 SUNDAY - 16.06 MONDAY NEW CIRCUS FESTIVAL, COMPAGNIE NON NOVA - VORTE COMPAGNIE NON NOVA L’APRÈS-MIDI D’UN FOEHN French, fast, freaky, fabulous! The contemporary circus group Compagnie Non Nova have ‘wind’ as their central theme and present its invisible force in various ways. See juggling with ice or cacti. The children’s version sees paper bags dance ballet and the latter version is for adults, or shall we say adults only with the transgender artist Phia Ménard.QC-2, Zagreb Youth Theatre, Ulica Nikole Tesle 7, www.cirkus.hr.

21.06 SATURDAY - 15.07 TUESDAY THE 33RD EVENINGS IN GRIČ For a change in tempo, a series of classical music concerts performed by renowned Croatian and international musicians will be held during the summer across beautiful venues in Zagreb’s Upper Town.QThe atrium of the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4; St. Katherine’s Church, Trg Katarine Zrinske, www.kdz.hr.

23.06 MONDAY - 25.06 WEDNESDAY INMUSIC FESTIVAL What reviews! ‘The National Geographic Traveller’ and ‘Woodstock of the 21st century’ have labelled INmusic Zagreb.inyourpocket.com

as one of the ‘Top 3 Music Festivals in the world’. With a growing reputation, punters are waiting impatiently for this year’s line-up that will bring some of the hottest music acts to our city. Stay wired!QG-5, Jarun Lake, Otok hrvatske mladeži, www.inmusicfestival.com. Festival ticket 314kn. Camping ticket 160kn.

27.06 FRIDAY - 05.07 SATURDAY FANTASTIC ZAGREB FILM FESTIVAL Let’s all have some fresh air, literally and artistically, with a wonderful and refreshing range of top-notch films from all over the world during this unique open-air film festival organized by the most quality-demanding movie theaters in town. It’s an awesome week to contemplate movies and stars that justly deserve the mental musings.QVarious locations across city centre, info@fantastic-zagreb.com, www.fantastic-zagreb.com.

GALLERIES ART PAVILION (UMJETNIČKI PAVILJON) A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra.QC-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@ umjetnicki-paviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr.

Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

HDLU (CROATIAN ASSOCIATION OF ARISTS) / MEŠTROVIĆ PAVILION (HRVATSKO DRUŠTVO LIKOVNIH UMJETNIKA / MEŠTROVIĆEV PAVILJON) Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name “džamija” testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood.QE-3, Trg žrtava fašizma 16, tel. (+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, hdlu@hdlu.hr, www.hdlu.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 10 - 15kn.

KLOVIĆEVI DVORI GALLERY (GALERIJA KLOVIĆEVI DVORI) Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you’ll find it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English or German.QC-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@galerijaklovic.hr, www. galerijaklovic.hr. Open 11:00 – 19:00. Closed Mon. U facebook.com/zagreb

MINGLING THE LAST TUESDAY OF EACH MONTH ART CLUBBING The Art Clubbing concept is an art-music project designed to cater to art and music lovers. Each program combines various arts - photography, literature, comics- with fashion and local or foreign music. This concept will take place the last Tuesday of April, May and June at Pepermint club.QB-2, Pepermint, Ilica 24.

EVERY SATURDAY RETROKALIPSA Be transported back in time to when Fred Astaire, Ginger Rogers and Gene Kelly ruled the big screen!

Brand spanking to town, for lovers of retro style, vinyl era, pin-up girls where you can dance to swing, jive, blues, rock and roll, boogie and rockabilly.QB-2, Swanky Mint Hostel, Ilica 50. Saturdays from 20:00 until 01:00.

EVERY THURSDAY ŠTRIKERAJ CAFFE ‘Ozana‘ is a social-humanitarian organization founded in order to improve the quality of life of physically and mentally challenged people. Every Thursday, they meet at Štrikeraj Cafe, from 17:00-20:00, to stimulate the creativity of disabled individuals by teaching them to knit and crochet. These gatherings are available for anyone to attend. So, come one or come all and enjoy a wonderful night of friends, laughter and creativity!

Follow upcoming events at their FB page. QI-3, The ‘Ozana’ Association, Ulica grada Vukovara 239, tel. (+385-1) 615 29 46, ozana.udr@hi.t-com.hr, www. udruga-ozana.hr.

17.04 THURSDAY - 19.04 SATURDAY OHOHO FESTIVAL A three day festival of low-cost underground/DIY comics, drawings, paintings, posters and street art in which everyone is invited to participate. A variety of events will take place - exhibitions, workshops, graffiti jam, film screenings and many more. A true spectacle of underground culture and new urban artists!QA-3, AKC Medika, Pierrottijeva 11, attack.hr/ohoho/.

Štrikeraj Caffe

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Jean Paul Gaultier, Sanja Rocco, Contemporary African Textile and colours, May 2014, ULUPUH Gallery

Culture & Events

LAUBA – THE HOUSE FOR PEOPLE AND ART (KUĆA ZA LJUDE I UMJETNOST LAUBA) Lauba is a rare example; once an industrial complex but now a public space. In 1924 it housed a textile factory, later serving as a humble warehouse. ‘Lauba - The House for People and Art’ is no mere marketing trick; the building is now home to the creation of a different product altogether, where art exhibitions coexist with day-to-day company life. The collection here is not separate from everyday life, but rather part of the building’s lifespan, having been here this past century. The house is alive from morning to night.

During office hours it is home to company employees, and from 15:00 - 23:00 the public takes over and it is a space for experiences, for learning, for fun, and for social interaction.

Lauba has a collection of 500 works of art created over the last 60 years, beginning with the renowned Exat 51 and New Tendencies movements. The greatest names in recent Croatian art are here. The exhibition changes once a month.QH-3, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Admission 10 - 25kn. U MODERN GALLERY (MODERNA GALERIJA) The Modern Gallery is one of the richest of its kind in all of Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of Zagreb, in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s, it hosts permanent exhibits featuring more than 750 works of modern and ultra-modern art from painters, sculptors, as well others who work in new media. From the staircase and grand lobby, to the halls on the first and second floors, visitors are presented with a harmonious image of cohabitation of old and new, yesterday and today, as more than two centuries of Croatian modern art await.QC-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 40/(+385-1) 604 10 22 Zagreb In Your Pocket

55, moderna-galerija@zg.t-com.hr, www.modernagalerija.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. U MUSEUM OF BROKEN RELATIONSHIPS (MUZEJ PREKINUTIH VEZA) Some of you may have come across the Museum of Broken Relationships before as it’s been on tour around the world collecting and displaying mementos of relationships gone wrong. The Museum now has a permanent exhibition space in Gornji grad in its home town of Zagreb. The project’s original purpose was to relieve people of the psychic burden of objects loaded with memories, but as the Museum travels the world’s metropolises, a fascinating socialanthropological treasure-trove is being created. This is a touching, tender and often funny testament to peoples’ eccentricities that serves to remind each one of us not to take ourselves too seriously.QC-1, Ćirilometodska 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21, info@brokenships.com, www. brokenships.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 25kn.

THE STROSSMAYER GALLERY OF OLD MASTERS (STROSSMAYEROVA GALERIJA STARIH MAJSTORA) Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that’s indisputable. When he wasn’t out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100kn per tour.QC-3, Trg N. Š. Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, sgallery@hazu.hr, www.hazu. hr. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

PASSION HERITAGE 05.04 SATURDAY - 16.04 WEDNESDAY THE 23RD FESTIVITIES OF THE PASSION HERITAGE Established in 1992, this annual event takes place from April 5th, until April 16th. Pasionska baština, as it is known locally, is just under a fortnight of musical and theatre performances, all geared towards celebrating the Passion of Christ and its influence on Croatia and other European Christian countries. Even if you’re not necessarily religious you can be assured of some spectacular concerts, literary events, art installations, which should easily be able to stand alone, irrespective of the overarching theme to the programme. The Passion Heritage Association, who organise everything, have based the entirety of their event on Croatian cultural heritage, so this should provide added insight for curious tourists, keen to learn a little bit more about art and literature (and more) from the region, in an interactive fashion.Qwww.pasionska-bastina.com.

Zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Story Competition Zagreb’s Festival of the European Short Story or FESS is the longest-running festival of its kind in This year’s Festival of the European Short Europe. Over the thirteen years of its existence Story (FESS) sees the inaugural edition of FESS (Festival europske kratke priče or FEKP is its the FESS - In Your Pocket Short Story Comtitle in Croatian) has brought together both leading petition. Entrants will be invited to spin a international writers and the best of the Croatian tale inspired, quite simply, by the theme of literary bunch, hosting a fair number of Booker, “in your pocket”. The contest will be open Impac, Pulitzer Prize and National Book Award from April 15 2014 to May 15; entries will winners along the way. What’s unique about then be judged by a panel of esteemed FESS is that it takes a well-chosen selection of writers, editors and journalists including leading literary personalities and puts them in an Diana Matulić, Zoran Ferić, Stjepan Balent, informal, public-friendly atmosphere. Most of the Saša Drach and Vladimir Arsenić. The wireadings and discussions take place in the kind nners will be announced during the festival of spaces that encourage laid-back sociability itself on Tuesday June 3 in the Semicircu– cafes and pubs feature more frequently in the lar Hall of the &TD Theatre. The first prize programme than formal theatres. Authors read in is a chance to read out the winning entry their original language, while English and Croatian on FESS’s final evening on June 6, followed translations, when necessary, are beamed onto by a two-week stay at the Baltic Writers’ screens above the stage, making everything more Residence in the Latvian port city of Ventthan easy to follow. All events are free of charge spils. There will also be prizes for the 2nd and the fact that a well-stocked bar is usually in and 3rd runners-up. the vicinity only serves to encourage after-show mingling. Translations of many of the short stories are specially commissioned for the festival – indeed the encouragement and stimulation of local-based translators is one of FESS’s main aims. And the festival is not just about writers and translators working in ‘big’ world languages such as English, French, German and Spanish.

FESS has always provided an important platform for the ‘other’ literatures of Europe and its neighbours, notably as Icelandic, Basque, Finnish, Hebrew, Arabic and Maltese.

The 2014 edition of the festival will be breaking continental boundaries by bringing four Brazilian writers to Zagreb, all of whom represent the changing face of contemporary Latin-American fiction: Joao Paulo Cuenca (on Granta’s list as one of the best Brazilian writers under 40), Ana Paula Maia (compared by the Brazilian edition of Rolling Stone magazine to ‘a cross between Dostoievsky and Quentin Tarantino’), Joao Anzanello Carrascoza (winner of the top Brazilian literary prize, the Jabuti, in 2006) and Paula Parisot (a recent Jabuti prize finalist).

Appropriately for what is after all Brazilian World Cup year, this year’s FESS will be opened by a football match between FESS authors and a team of veteran Croatian soccer professionals.

Details of the opening-match team sheets are yet to be disclosed. What we can reveal is that the writers who will be discussing/performing their work at FESS 2014 are Robert Menasse (Austria), Jenni Fagan (Scotland), Marica Bodrožić (Germany), Jon McGregor (UK), Tommy Wieringa (Netherlands), Kristine Želve (Latvia), Damir Uzunović (Bosnia-Herzegovina), Paolo Cognetti (Italy) and Vesna Lemaič (Slovenia). Among those reading for the home team will be Zoran Ferić, Zoran Pilić, Senko Karuza, Želimir Periš, Emir Imamović Pirke, Ivana Simić Bodrožić and Drago Glamuzina.

The other major innovation this year will be the launch of a short-story competition, co-organized by the FESS team and Zagreb In Your Pocket. The theme for entries is quite simply “in your pocket”; the announcement of the winner (and the reading of the winning entry) will be one of the festival’s many highlights.

This year’s Festival of the European Sort Story takes place from June 1 to 6 at various venues in Zagreb and Šibenik. You can find more details on http://europeanshortstory.org

Zagreb Pulse

Zagreb Pulse IA recent one-man show at Zagreb’s Lauba Gallery confirmed the status of Stanko Abadžic as one of contemporary Croatia’s leading fine-art photographers. Born in Vukovar in 1952, Abadžić lived in Germany, the Czech Republic and on the Adriatic island of Krk before re-planting roots in Zagreb. The Lauba exhibition was devoted to his photographs of Prague, the city with which he is most associated, although his urban-landscape coverage of Istanbul, Berlin, Paris and the Croatian Adriatic has also been widely celebrated. Whatever the subject matter, Abadžić is known above all for his stark compositions in black and white. As he says himself, “The play of light and shadow is the characteristic signature of my photographs”. You can find out more on www.abadzic.de.vu As a photographer known primarily for your portraits of cities, do you have a set working method when you start out?

My basic motive in making a portrait of a city is always the same, regardless of how well I know it, and that is that I don’t want to repeat the well-trodden paths, I don’t want to take pictures of monuments; I want to find what’s mine in that city.

When I was in Paris I spent two months in the Cité Internationale des Arts on a kind of grant. Our ministry of culture has a studio there, and an artist is sent there every two months. The experience of being in Paris during the winter months was something completely new for me, I had never previously photographed a city under snow. It was very exciting; there were almost no tourists, the trees were bare and everything was reduced to its elements.

Apart from having a rough idea of where the older parts of a city are to be found, I don’t really have a plan of action when I’m shooting, and largely allow myself to be led by intuition. A city is a bit like a woman in the sense that it has a façade (the make-up, if you like), and another more natural, unguarded face. When you look in the back yards of a city you often see this other face. That’s something I did a lot in Istanbul. If I found a half-open door, I peeked inside it.

meeting point of two rivers, the Danube and the Vuka. Life was very quiet and peaceful there. It was the kind of town where every body knew everybody else, and people had a healthy perspective on life. We were on the same level as life; life was not hovering somewhere above us as it often is in big cities. The perspective of coming from a small town possibly means that one looks for the mini-towns within the great metropolises. I never wanted to look at the greatness of the city, but to search in the peripheries for the small neighbourhoods.

How old were you when you realized that photography was going to be important in your life?

I was 15. I was given a Russian camera by my father; in those days there was no other make of camera available. It was a Smena-8, a very simple camera with only three settings: sunny, semi-sunny and cloudy. That camera basically taught me the crucial lesson that it wasn’t the equipment that was important but the talent behind the viewfinder. I actually studied German literature at university then spent ten years working as a news photographer for the Croatian daily newspaper Vjesnik. It was as a photo-reporter that I first went to Istanbul. Then the war came and there was a long pause. I went with my wife and son to Germany, where we only had the right to stay for three months; at the end of each three-month period you had to go to the police station to have it renewed - or turned down. It was a very stressful period and during our four-year stay in Germany I hardly took a single photograph.

So how did fine-art photography become your chief preoccupation?

When the Germans said that we had to leave, we decided to go to Prague. We got permission to stay permanently,

In what way was the city of Prague itself an inspiration?

I was always looking for old parts of the city which had the patina of age, parts that I was sure would be soon be destroyed by the process of globalization. Globalization has a tendency to make all cities the same, and I was very eager to record these parts of Prague before they changed. Nowadays when I return to Prague, I find that a lot of those places where I took photographs simply don’t exist anymore.

What was specific about growing up in Vukovar? And does the experience of coming from a small town change the way that you view a big city?

We used to call Vukovar “Little Venice”. It is set on the

Stanko Abadžić

BY JONATHAN BOUSFIELD 24 Zagreb In Your Pocket

which gave us an enormous feeling of relief and liberation.

The Czech Republic was for me something like a volcanic eruption: in the creative sense, the city was extraordinarily inspiring. Photography was treated as a serious art form: they had a photography department at the art academy, as well as numerous galleries and exhibitions.

During our first year in Prague I worked as a German teacher in the state education system, but - and this is a very important part of my biography - one day in May the students were writing an exercise and I was standing by the window idly gazing at the park below, where a couple were kissing. It was at that moment that I realized that life was somewhere else, not in school, and I decided immediately to resign from teaching at the end of the academic year. I can’t say my wife was very happy with the decision.

However an advertising company called Super Poster gave me the job of taking photographs of their 20 billboards in Prague by both day and night - the pictures were then sent to their clients to show them how effective the billboards were. I finished the job in three days and was paid just as much money as I would have got by teaching German for a month. Which basically meant that I had 27 days to myself. When it hit me that I was free to be creative and experience the city, photography took over my life. My first exhibition was in Prague’s Josef Sudek Gallery, named after the famous Czech photographer Sudek (1896-1976), and then I published my first book, In The Mirror of Life, with the help of our Embassy in Prague. Other galleries opened their doors to me, and my career as a fine-arts photographer took off. The Prague connection enabled my jump towards the American market - where I am now represented by four galleries - because the perception of Czech photography was very strong there. Everyone in America knew the big names from the Czech avant-garde such as Drtikol, Sudek and Wiškovsky.

A girl and a dog, Zagreb, 2010 Zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Is taking photographs in a place like Istanbul very different to taking photographs in a place like Prague, Paris or Berlin?

It’s a totally different world. Istanbul isn’t a European city.

It’s the kind of place where you don’t have to look for things to shoot, they come to you. In no other city did I use up five rolls of film per day.

Many of your photographs feature city scenes in which passers-by seems to have been caught at random. Do you have to wait a long time for the right kind of people to walk into frame?

It seems to me that you are a bit like an urban wildlife phofacebook.com/zagreb

tographer, waiting and waiting for the right creature to appear. Yes, I choose my frame and then wait for people to walk in and out of that frame. On some occasions in Paris I would visit a location three times in order to get the right light or the right mix of people.

There’s a famous photograph you took in Zagreb of two nuns walking past a huge pair of lips protruding from the graffiti wall on Branimirova…

I focused on the wall and then waited. I saw the nuns coming towards me and discreetly hid the camera behind my back until they got closer. Had they seen me, something would have changed in their facial expressions and it wouldn’t have been the same. Luckily they were busy talking to each other and never paid me any attention.

How easy is it to be a fine-arts photographer in Croatia?

There is still no market in Croatia and the idea of photography as fine art is not as accepted here as it is elsewhere.

People here sometimes buy fine art prints or engravings, but rarely photography. In order to have an appreciation of photography, several things need to be in place: specialist magazines, journalists who write about photography, and photography auctions. Places like Germany and the USA have these things. In Croatia there are only about two private collectors. We have too few exhibitions, and hardly any specialized photo galleries.

You also photograph nudes…

I have just entered my sixties, which is a good time to do nudes, because you can work in a much more relaxed way… I was always irritated by billboards that used the female body to sell products in a vulgar way, so I decided to approach nudes in a way that would show a bit of respect to the human body. None of my nudes were done with professional models. They were all women I saw in cafés, at tram stops, or on the streets. They all had to have something specific about their faces - a good nude always starts with the face. And I never use make-up or styling, I never use artificial light, and I never use unnatural poses.

I always supply galleries with editions of 25 prints for each of my photographs. The only edition that has ever sold out in full was one of my nudes.

What relationship do you have with your cameras.

Do you have a favourite?

I still have a camera that I bought in Prague and it came to me in a rather curious way. The manager of a fast-food restaurant bought my first book, cut out 40 of the reproductions, and put them on the wall of his restaurant. One of my friends rang up and said ‘Hey Stanko I didn’t realize you’d started exhibiting in fried-chicken restaurants!’ At first I thought it was a joke. When I went there and confronted the manager, I told him he had two possibilities: either buy my original prints and put them in proper frames, or speak to my lawyers. It took him five seconds to pick the first option. I came away with 5000 Deutschmarks, and bought the Pentax camera that I am still using today.

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Restaurants

Restaurants

Boban Restaurant

news that they’ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere.QC-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (68 130kn). PJAGB

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

CROATIAN DIDOV SAN Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28.

B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54, (+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan.com, www. konoba-didovsan.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.

IVICA I MARICA Ivica and Marica’s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it’s great 26 Zagreb In Your Pocket

KORČULA Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to have to go far to do it, this is your place.QC-2, Nikole Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, restaurant.korcula@gmail.com, www.restoran-korcula.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 120kn). PJAGB TRILOGIJA Just next to the holy sanctuary Kamenita vrata (Stone Gate), you will find this food haven that is sure to indulge all of your senses in every way. The menu is filled with fusion foods using typical Croatian ingredients like the almost forgotten fresh cheese Škripavac or barley, and are prepared in a Mediterranean way.

To enrich your experience Trilogija offers a wine list of 130 Croatian and imported wines, 30 of which can be served by the glass.QC-1, Kamenita 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 94, info@trilogija.com, www.trilogija.com. Open 11:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (75 - 140kn).

PJAGW

BUDGET PITHOS Zagreb should count itself blessed as more places open, dedicated to freshly prepared food. Pithos, perhaps, sparked that trend, having been open 7 years now (and expanding in size in 2014). With ingredients sourced each morning, and no leftovers (or freezer in which to put them), the menu can vary in content as the seasons progress. It’s a small size, so no large parties, but you simply have to try their soup, the unofficial Croatian national dish.QB-3, Žerjavićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 485 43 82, pithos.zagreb@gmail.com, www.pithos.hr. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (30 - 40kn). PNGB ZALOGAJNICA “KOD DUJE” If you’re east of the main square and fancy a decent, quick and inexpensive meal the local way, head to the park by the Kvaternikov trg marketplace. This simple and decent little spot offers a range of homestyle dishes such as sarma (soured cabbage leaves stuffed with minced meat and rice, cooked in delicious sauce), stuffed peppers, and a selection of meaty and bean stews.QJ-3, Martićeva 62, tel. (+385-1) 461 06 43.

Open 06:00 - 23:00. (15 - 50kn). ABW

Zagreb.inyourpocket.com

VALLIS AUREA You’ll find big things cooking within this tiny, humble enclosure, named after a famous vineyard in Kutjevo, Slavonia. Not surprisingly then, many people come for the great wines on offer. The affordable Slavonian fare and a daily changing menu keep you on your toes. A wide variety of beef, fish and vegetarian dishes.QB-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 13 05, www.vallis-aurea.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (35 - 70kn). PAGBW VINODOL Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended.

QC-2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, vinodol@vinodol-zg.hr, www.vinodol-zg.hr.

Open 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 100kn). PJAGBW V STAREM MELINU The spirit of the past is revived through this age old original restored mill, a cultural monument at the preserved farm of Croatian feudal lords on the edge of the Medvednica Nature Park. Now, visitors can eat scrumptious homemade bread baked from milled grain, the exact way it used to be eaten in the 16th century. Old cuisines naturally go best with homemade bread which can be found right here the authentic antique furniture certainly contributes to the warm and homely atmosphere as well.QJunkovićev put 2b, tel. (+385-1) 346 31 32, vstaremmelinu@gmail. com, www.vstaremmelinu.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (55 100kn). ALGBXW ŽLICA I VILICA Fresh and tasty, lunchtime staples such as stews, soups and local-style meat dishes are complemented by imaginative salads and risottos. With prices between 35 to 60kn, tasteful décor and good service to boot, we ask what more one could wish for?QD-3, Kneza Mislava 13, tel. (+3851) 457 27 70, info@zlicaivilica.hr, www.zlicaivilica.hr.

Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 60kn). PAGBSW

CHIC & CHEERFUL BISTRO ROUGEMARIN Tuck in a napkin bib, here comes the burger to write home about…to write sonnets about… to declare juicy, beefy goodness on par with lottery winnings about. Served at ready-to-eat temperatures on perfectly soft, crispy-crust buns with thin bacon slices and crunchy lettuce leaves.

Then there is lešada, seafood, lamb, chicken or beef cooked in salty water with various ingredients for spice. Tasty, healthy and served with potatoes or silver beat. It’s love at first bite and highly recommended.QK-4, Folnegovićeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 618 77 76. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 100kn). AGBW facebook.com/zagreb

BISTRO ŠALŠA Ladies, this is one bistro where all the chefs and staff are men and one would expect that at least 50% of the customer base finds this enticing. The concept is oh so simple with a choice of three types of hearty meals per day.

The menu changes daily and is tops for brunch or lunch.

QH-3, Kostelska 11, bistro.salsa.tresnjevka@gmail. com. Open 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (30 - 40kn).

PNGBSW MALI BAR Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen. QD-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 14. Open 12:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 90kn). PAGBW MIMICE As the oldest fast fish joint in Zagreb, Mimice is practically an institution in this city. Drop in for a quick plate of fried sardines and anchovies, a la Dalmatia, which is usually eaten standing up at the ‘bar’ that hugs the restaurant’s walls.QD-2, Jurišićeva 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 24. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (16 - 35kn).

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Restaurants

Restaurants for meals and special events, like belly dancing!QJ-3, Radnička cesta 48, tel. (+385-1) 604 01 39, info@delicijalibanesi.com, www.delicija-libanesi.com. Open 11:00 23:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 100kn). PAGBW ROYAL INDIA A welcome addition to Zagreb, the Royal India occupies the same spot as a former fish restaurant. There’s nothing fishy here, however, and the menu would be looked upon favourably at any Indian restaurant across Britain. Portions might be smaller than preferred, but this is easily fixed and you will be guaranteed to leave with a full, and satisfied, stomach.

Well worth fasting in advance of a visit here, just to make sure you can clear your plate.QC-1, Kaptol 27, tel. (+385-1) 468 09 65, royalindiazg@gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (35 - 80kn). PAGW SOFRA Once you’ve sampled all the Croatian specialties, there are still more culinary delights to try. First stop: the rich and heavy food of Bosnia. You can try all types of Bosnian specialties like krumpiruša, kvrguša and urmašice and then move on to a scrumptious piece of baklava and authentic Turkish coffee. Also at 1.gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27.QK-4, Radnička cesta 50 (Green Gold Centre), tel. (+385-1) 411 16 21, info@sofra.hr, www.sofra.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (24 - 98kn). PALGBXW

ETHNIC ASIA Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26.QD-3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18, asia.doo@gmail.com, www.asia.hr.

Open 11:00 - 23:00. (29 - 125kn). PAGW CALIFORNIA BURRITO Nestled neatly at the back of a courtyard, this eatery should be considered an ideal place to stop at the end of the night, or indeed as a quiet alternative to more central locations. A wide selection of regional beers is available, as well as one Mexican import.QB-2, Masarykova 11, tel. (+385-) 095 169 64 73, www.burrito.hr. Open 10:00 22:00. Closed Sun. (19 - 27kn). PVNGBSW DELICIJA LIBANESI For centuries, the Lebanese have travelled around the world sharing their amazing cuisine. Now, they have finally come to Zagreb. Enjoy some authentic hummus or baba ghanouj appetizer followed by kafta or shish taouk meat and delight your palate in an explosion of flavours.

Decorated in a simple but classy style, the white walls adorned with oriental rugs create the perfect atmosphere 28 Zagreb In Your Pocket

SNACKS DIVAS The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner’s first love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable rates in the hand-sewn menu cards.QD-2, Martićeva 17, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 42, divasbar@mail.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.

PNGBXW KINO EUROPA Zagreb’s best known arthouse cinema, Kino Europa is so much more. Serving as a large café by day (with cakes and sandwiches available) the nights offer twice as much. Two halls play host to events such as quizzes, music performances, and of course documentaries.

Kino Europa is not only home to any number of film festivals but also to a rather kitsch shop where one can procure some very eclectic items indeed. It should be a weekly ritual to check the cinema’s website for upcoming features.QB-2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 88, info@kinoeuropa.hr, www.kinoeuropa. hr. Open 08:30 - 02:00. PJBW Zagreb.inyourpocket.com

TAKENOKO SUSHI BAR The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you’re a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you! The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you’re high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free dessert, we think you’ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. CC only Visa. QC-1, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, japanski.restaurant@takenoko. hr, www.takenoko.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 17:00. (70 - 180kn). PAGW UMAMI GRILL A small place on Skalinska, and perhaps easily missed, but once inside you’ll wonder how so much can fit. There’s seating inside for perhaps a small dozen, and terraced seats of course, but it’s the menu and the food which must come first here. There are no wrong choices on this menu, and it is the best pad thai this reviewer has had in a long time. Prices are eminently affordable and great value. Perfect for an early lunch (or late lunch), or whenever, whilst wandering the old city.QC-1, Skalinska 3, tel. (+385-1) 483 86 09. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (15-39kn). A

without-hovering staff to compliment their fresh seafood, beef and lamb dishes with a delicate dessert. Designed to offer generously portioned lunch-friendly options, the menu’s tantalizing flavor combinations served in an ambiance of simple perfection stirs the apetite any time of day.QB-2, Obrtnički prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 77, sanja@apetit.hr, www.apetit.hr.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 130kn). PAGW

PIZZA DUKSA It’s not every day you come across good pizza. When we say “good” we mean pizza with a thin, crispy base and fresh, natural ingredients on the top. So we’re pretty thrilled that a new restaurant in town offers just that, along with oodles of charm. Duksa’s pizza menu offers about ten original “de-

INTERNATIONAL AMERICAN STEAK & GRILL HOUSE For a restaurant based in one of Zagreb’s busiest hotels, slap bang in the middle of the city, this place is deceptively sedate. Well air conditioned, exceptionally friendly and helpful staff, and wonderfully spacious for the taller diner this American Steak and Grill House will prepare and cook your meat to specific recipes. Getting hungry just typing this. QC-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1 (Hotel Dubrovnik), info@ hotel-dubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Open 17:00 - 23:00. (39 - 139kn). PAGBW APETIT CITY This ‘oasis of enlightened hedonism’ is the newly opened downtown branch of a favorite Apetit bistro. Ask the helpful-

www.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/zagreb

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Restaurants

Restaurants taste, and certainly the menu is quite varied and unique for Zagreb. For the less adventurous there are eminently palatable snacks and drinks which even the most devout carnivore will enjoy.QD-1, Ribnjak 8, tel. (+385-1) 561 76 31/(+385-) 091 164 14 85, info@artofrawfood.com, www.artofrawfood.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (48 - 65kn). PNGBW

Le Bistro Menu

signs” with tomato sauce (“red pizza”) and a similar number without sauce (“white pizza”). Each pizza has its own imaginative and humorous name, for example “Shitake Happens”.

Buon appetito!QK-2, Duknovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 233 45 56, duksa.pizza@gmail.com. Open 09:30 - 23:00. (43 55kn). PAGBXSW KARIJOLA With a name long synonymous with the best pizza in town, this newly-opened second location has quickly caught the city’s attention. But almost as delicious as the super fresh mouth, watering menu options is what the restaurant lay-out has created in the city center, a modernized version of their original hearty, wood-style interior rests perched atop an alleyway staircase and surrounded in greenery. The overall impression of being in a tree house pizza oasis is a see-it-to-believe-it pleasure.

Highly recommended. Also at A-4 Kranjčevićeva 16a.

QD-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 16. Open 11:00 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (30 - 69kn). NGBSW OLIVA The joyfully modern décor of this pizza and pasta haven just steps from the Sava river welcomes students and travelers alike for Italian-style favorites in a garden-esque atmosphere. Their commitment to delighting in details permeates every aspect of their offerings, including the roasted Jela ispod peke dishes served family-style for four as well as their off-menu creative twists on other local favorites.QH-4, Jarunska 5, tel. (+385-1) 302 07 77/(+385-) 099 302 07 77, bistro.oliva@gmail.com, www.restoranpizzeria-oliva.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (35 - 165kn).

PAVGBXW

GREEN POINT Looking for a quick, healthy alternative place to satisfy your munchies and get some greens? Then step into Green Point, where the green grass will greet you below your feet. Choose from an array of vegetarian meals, including hemp burgers, falafels or salads all prepared with Himalayan salt. To quench your thirst pick out your favourite fruit for a sumptuous soy milkshake made fresh, right on the spot. ‘Green is in’ even in Zagreb and satisfies your urges for happy, healthy, dine-and-dash choices.

QC-2, Varšavska 10, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 67. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 30kn). JAGW NEW NISHTA It’s far from ništa that you’ll get here, should you choose to forego meat for your meal. The menu has adequate depth and variety, and you’ll see a wonderful mix of cold raw, and hot cooked vegetarian dishes. Staff are almost overly helpful, and will assist in choosing an option for those unfamiliar with vegetarian repast. A return visit is definitely on the cards.QB-2, Masarykova 11/1, tel. (+3851) 889 74 44, kontakt@nishtarestaurant.com, www. nishtarestaurant.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (49 - 60kn). PGW ZRNO BIO BISTRO A vegan restaurant in Zagreb? Surely not! And yet here it is, in a sheltered courtyard, and looking solid. 100% organic food, the only place in Croatia which can boast such a thing, it also a decent selection of regional wines available. The interior is warm in appearance, with a narrow terrace outside if the weather allows. There’s a bookstore in the basement as well, for budding architects.QB-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 75 40, restoran@biozrno.hr. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. (45 - 59kn).

AGW

Seasonal, delicious, homemade vegetarian food with a wide range of vegan and gluten free options.

Choose from over 20 homemade vegetarian, vegan and gluten free salads, hot dishes, daily soup, freshly pressed juices and desserts. Salads you pay by weight, so you can take as much or as little as you want.

Eat in or take out, however you wish to enjoy our nishta food.

PERICA Known as one of the best places in Zagreb to stop by for a delicious lunch, Perica offers a wide variety of fresh Italian dishes, such as ravioli, linguine, spaghetti and gnocchi, made from homemade pasta, as well as Croatian specialty čušpajz, a hearty stew. Located slightly outside of the city center, this restaurant is decorated in a simple and modern style and offers a different menu daily. A great spot to keep in mind for a business or a casual lunch with friends, as it’s only open until 18:00 from Monday to Friday.QI-4, 8. Vrbik 24, tel. (+385-1) 619 80 53, info@klopaperica.hr, www.klopaperica.hr.

Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

VEGETARIAN ELIXIR RAW FOOD CLUB The first thing to note is that this is a members club, not a restaurant, so you will need to call ahead in order to reserve your table; membership will be taken care of once you arrive. Everything on offer is naturally prepared, with no preservatives, and indeed no actual cooking. Staff will be more than happy to recommend something to your 30 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Boban Restaurant

Zinfandel’s Menu

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Local Flavour

Local Flavour FOOD MARKETS

Something to tickle your tastebuds...

If you love your food and enjoy cooking, you won’t want to miss the farmers’ markets. Zagreb has over 20 of them; most neighbourhoods have at least a few stalls selling fruit and vegetables, while at the larger markets you’ll also find meat, fish, dairy produce and a whole lot more.

The charms of open-air markets are known far and wide.

Piles of produce gleaming in the sun; the local colour, the lively atmosphere. However, for outsiders it can be a daunting experience. You have to find a way to communicate with the stallholders. While the locals develop relationships with their favourite stallholders over years, you’re here just for the weekend. How can you be sure you’re not shortchanged or given spoiled produce?

Don’t be fooled into thinking that just because this is an open-air market everything is as local as it is picturesque. If you look carefully you can spot the importers - the fruit is a little too regular in shape; the produce is not as fresh as it might be; the produce on sale is out of season and its packaging belies its foreign origins. The beauty of the market is buying veg that was picked early this morning (or yesterday at the latest). It’s travelled into town in a big chequered bag with the lady from the surrounding countryside - these ladies are known as kumice and for their years spent supplying the city’s markets they’ve earned their own statue at the top of the steps on Dolac market. Or it might be trucked in from the coast where it’s spent its life under the warm Dalmatian sun.

See that bit of mud on the roots of your spinach? That’s a good sign that tells you this is the real deal. This food wasn’t raised on artificial substrate so it’s full of flavour. With a bit of luck it’s not soaked with chemical fertilizers or pesticides either. Look out for people with a slightly motley selection of goods that tell you they’re smallholders, not large-scale traders. Seek out imperfections in the produce - natural food is not all the same size and shape. Look for a nice bit of mud (but not too much water, that’s a trick to add weight on the scales).

The aforementioned Dolac has been feeding the citizens of Zagreb since 1930, and it’s one of the liveliest spots in the city. From 06:00 to around 14:00, it’s full of banter, barter, chatter, shouting and laughter. It’s fringed by cafes and little food outlets; a trip there is an unmissable part of the sightseeing schedule. If you’re a vegetarian, you’ll want to avoid the meat section where you’ll be confronted by bits of carcass swinging all over the place. The meat market is far from unsanitary but it’s a far cry from the cellophane-wrapped sterility of the supermarket; there’s no kidding you where that pork chop came from. Here you can choose from fresh meat of all kinds, cured hams, bones and tails for your soup, spicy Slavonian kulen (a little like a giant chorizo), multitude salamis and the scourge of children everywhere, offal.

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Potentially even more off-putting is the dairy section at Dolac, an enclosed area with an unmistakeably milky aroma. There rows of ladies invite you to taste their wares, and we strongly advise you to do so. Try slivers of supple young cheese (svježi sir), rich sour cream (vrhnje), smoked cheese (dimljeni sir), cheese flavoured with papr ika, nettle, herbs or made with goat’s or sheep’s milk (kozji, ovčji sir). Also look out for the Gligora stall selling highly-regarded cheese from Pag island.

A trip to the fish section (ribarnica) is part culinary voyage, part natural history adventure. The creatures of the deep whose gaze you’ll meet you’ve probably never seen before.

Along with shimmering crates of sardines are plump pink scorpion fish, exquisite yet ugly monkfish; jumbo Adriatic squid, conger eel, river trout and huge, fearsomely-toothed, delicious and hideously expensive dentex. If you’re not sure how to prepare these things, ask the stallholder who will usually gut them for you and offer advice on cooking. Look for fish with plump flesh and bright (not sunken) eyes. There’s fish to suit every pocket, and the cheapest, the humble sardine (just 20kn a kilo), is the healthiest of them all.

At the far end of the open-air part of Dolac market you’ll find herbal teas and tinctures and traditional craft items such as lace tablecloths, embroidered slippers and wooden toys. Above is a plateau named after Petrica Kerempuh, a literary character. The Kerempuh restaurant is a great spot for a tasty lunch, and the Potepuh café has been the meeting place of artists and intellectuals for decades, including poet Tin Ujević and novelist Miroslav Krleža. In summer, you can buy bedding plants, herbs and other supplies for your garden or window box in this part of the market. Go a little further along Opatovina and you’ll find stalls selling cheap clothing.

Down the Dolac steps and towards the square are flower stalls, a mirror held up to the changing seasons. Along with hothouse staples there are always narcissi in the spring, chrysanthemums in autumn, and lavender and sunflowers to help you pay homage to the summer.

As you can see, your shopping spree on Dolac is hard work so you deserve a break. A legendary place for a light lunch is Bistro Amfora, strategically positioned under the arches by the fish market. The place hasn’t changed in the past 30 years; it’s one of the last reminders of Zagreb in years gone by and the locals gather from dawn to chew over the day’s gossip. The smell of frying squid and sardines is irresistible.

A main course (we suggest crni rižot, squid ink risotto) and a glass of wine will set you back just a few euro.

The other main Zagreb markets include Britanski trg (affectionately known as Britanac), which transforms into an antiques market on Sundays; and Trešnjevački plac and Kvatrić (Kvaternikov trg) - also largeish markets with good fish sections and much more.So, pick up your basket and head for the market!

LOCAL DISHES Here in Zagreb we’re at the crossroads of a number of culinary influences. For centuries, this was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire so it’s natural that the Germanic influence is strongest in cooking as in language (you’ll hear plenty of loan words in the local dialect). However, the paprika-infused cooking of Hungary is not far away, and as road networks improve, the travelling time from the coast is ever shorter. Zagreb is a magnet for immigrants from across the country (and beyond), who bring with them fresh approaches to cooking which are adopted with enthusiasm by the locals. But what is the real Zagreb, in culinary terms?

Here are a few examples. Probably the best known dishes which truly represent Zagreb are purica s mlincima (turkey roast with sheets of baked pasta-like dough that soak up the tasty juices), and štrukli (pasta parcels of soft young cheese boiled and baked in the oven). Then there’s zagrebački odrezak, fried breaded pork stuffed with ham and cheese which, though popular, probably doesn’t quite count as traditional food, but can be worth trying for the stunningly sized portions.

Something you might find on lunchtime menus is eingemachtes (often corrupted to ajngemachtes in Croatian, or named more correctly ujušak. This is an all-in-one meal usually made with chicken meat and offal cooked into a thick and tasty soup with root vegetables and dumplings.

Then there’s špek fileki, a hearty stew of tripe cooked with smoked bacon (that’s the špek bit), another lunchtime favourite, especially with the menfolk.

Great food, good cheer and some super photo opportunities await you. facebook.com/zagreb

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Local Flavour

Coffee & Cakes CAFES BLOK BAR A small space brought to life by the creative talents of Zagreb’s most famous designers, the Blok offers much more than a seat inside architectural artistry. While sight and touch delight in the cubic and cushy, take in the tastes and smells of fresh bakery sweets and sandwiches that complement the select coffee offerings. Finest of all is the friendly staff, welcoming all to their futuristically homey space.QE-2, Tomašićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 455 03 66. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. PNGBXW

Gwyneth Paltrow would certainly raise an eyebrow or two if you served her with granadirmaš (or grantirmarš, grenadier): boiled potatoes and pasta mixed with onion and bacon cooked in pork dripping, often served with fried breaded meat. An equally carbohydrate-laden treat is ajnpren juha (or prežgana juha) - a roux of flour or oil and fat cooked with water with an egg added at the end. Not only was this nourishing food during tough economic times, it is still reputed to cure a dodgy tummy.

You can try these foods in Zagreb’s traditional-style restaurants - see our Restaurants pages for listings. Or if you’d like to roast a turkey at home, we can recommend locallyreared heritage turkeys from “Puran zagorskih brega”, which you can order on (+385-49) 32 90 66.

CULINARY EVENTS EVERY SATURDAY THE LITTLE MARKET IN THE ATTIC Many people feel they’d love to have better access to healthy, organically grown food. And at the same time, producers of organic food need better access to customers. The Little Market in the Attic (Mali plac na Tavanu) is an answer to this problem, enabling people to have a lot of fun along the way. Literally held in the attic of Jelena Nikolić, a food stylist and blogger, the market is open every Saturday and you can find all kinds of interesting delicacies from the furthest corners of Croatia, plus natural cosmetics, ecofriendly cleaning products and a whole lot more. It’s also a meeting place where you can learn from others about growing and enjoying natural healthy food.QI2, Sinkovićeva 8, sjediijedi.tportal.hr. Open 11:00 18:00. J 03.04 THURSDAY - 05.04 SATURDAY THE 2ND CROATIAN FESTIVAL OF FOOD AND WINE If you wish to taste amazing food, wines and sweet delicacies from Croatia and around the world, then this is the place to be! ‘Business & Pleasure’ is exactly the motto of this festival which includes cooking shows, chocolate, cake and wine workshops, tastings, as well as food courses and round tables. Give your palette a night to remember!QH-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb, info@festivalhraneivina.hr, www. festivalhraneivina.hr.

BOOKSA Chill, laid back, and the meeting place of the Association for the Promotion of Cultures ‘Kulturtreger’, Booksa could be a bookshop or library for all the reading material on offer. Come in, order from a wide selection of teas, pick a book off the shelf, and relax. There are also readings and workshops on a regular basis, and every second Thursday offers up and coming bands and artists a chance to showcase their talents. A far-reaching vision indeed.QD-2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61 24, info@booksa. hr, www.booksa.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. NG CICA A quirky sort of place, which is a rarity around Zagreb. Sitting on a corner it’s ideally situated to provide shade and shelter, in equal measure, depending on whether you want to dodge the sun, or rain. The interior is below street level, and the interior must be seen at least once, to be believed; barber’s chairs and ceramic urinals (non-functional) are dotted around the room. A handy spot to relax for any reason.QC-1, Tkalčićeva 8. Open 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. ELI’S Any coffee aficionado would be mad not to pay this small coffee shop a visit. Non-smoking, because the owner feels it ruins the taste, and serving nothing but coffee, Eli’s has one of the friendliest staff ever encountered in oft-gruff Zagreb. Coffee is seasonal so you can be sure of getting the right sort of coffee to match the time of year. Eli’s are careful about the quality of their product and only sup-

ply a few locations elsewhere in the city.QA-2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 455 56 08, info@eliscaffe.com, www. eliscaffe.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PJGW INSTITUT PARFUMEUR FLORES Think twice about coming here if you’ve already been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day. The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can’t help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a beautiful interior.QB-2, Dežmanov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 54 45, info@flores-group.com, www.flores-group. com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 15:00. PJAGBW JUTRO Sitting outside of this small coffee shop you could be forgiven if you imagined yourself on an island in the Adriatic.

Set just off the street this cafe sells only Croatian homemade produce as well as acting as gallery for some fantastic art pieces (all of which are for sale).QC-2, Teslina 9, jutrouteslinoj@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

K&K Aspiring artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving you into your own personal renaissance. Just off the main square.QC-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 58. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJNBX MK (KROLO) Great hangout of bums, punks and drunks, most of whom work in the media, it has outside seating in the lovely old Radićeva street. Look at the knjiga žalbe (‘Complaints Book’) above the bar.QC-2, Radićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 80. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.

JBXW RETRO CAFÉ BAR The works of Serbian realist Domanović balance playfully with those of Dante under the bar while ‘bugger off ’ serves in place of a ‘closed’ sign. Witty and gritty, Retro feel permeates the cushiony window seats and group tables in this intimate space subtlely but impressively fur-

11.06 WEDNESDAY - 15.06 SUNDAY DINNER IN THE SKY EUROPEAN TOUR 2014 Don’t look down as this smashing experience delivers breakfast, lunch, dinner or cocktails 50 meters above the ground. One chef, one waiter, and one entertainer and you can be amongst 22 people sky high! For this unearthly experience that has taken over the world, why not head for cloud 9!Qwww.dinnerinthesky. com.hr.

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Coffee & Cakes nished with repurposed bureaus, drawers and doodads of all kinds.QH-4, Savska cesta 180, tel. (+385-1) 550 99 59/(+385-) 099 324 00 01, info@retro-nightcaffe.com, retro-nightcaffe.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 24:00. PNBXW U DVORIŠTU Best described as one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets this chilled and laid back venue is somewhere to go to just get away from it all, tucked away from all the action on the street. Direct trade café this place has wifi, a great beer selection, and more than a few blends of tea to assist in the process of relaxation. Perhaps best avoided if you’re not too fond of the feline persuasion, but certainly a place that’s all too happy to see, and accommodate, cyclists (an oddity for a city as large as Zagreb).QB-3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, udvoristucafe@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. PENBXW VELVET This corner cafe would not be out of place in the more stylish parts of London or Paris, and it’s all too easy to fall in love with the gorgeous ‘library’ section and lose track of your day’s plans. A nice selection of teas, and they make their own cakes as well. Outdoor terracing, but the indoor seating is what caught our eye. Decadent, in a good way. Pricey, but no more so than other such spots in the area.QB-2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, info@velvet.hr, www.velvet.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PAGBW

EXPRESS BAR

Sitting not too far from Zagreb’s main square Express Bar is a relatively recent addition to the immediate area. It’s an unassuming looking place, but with friendly staff (but oh so skilled), and a pretty decent selection of coffee and tea blends, it is sure to become one of the centre’s default meeting points. Plenty of seating both indoors and outside, naturally, on the street. Want a beer? Well there’s Erdinger and O’Hara’s on tap. Coffee? Purely seasonal and is based on fresh harvest and freshly roasted coffee. Express has ‘blends’, a mixture of coffee most often from different countries, so Costa Rica, Salvador and Brazil might be in blend this week, whereas next weeks could be entirely different. They also have single origin coffee! So,if you devour coffee, then you need to put the time aside to try a few cups. Q C-2, Petrinjska 4. Open 07:00 – 23:00, Sat 08:00 – 22:00, Sun 09:00 – 14:00.

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Nightlife SWEET TREATS LE KOLAČ We recommend you make a trip for a pick ‘n’ mix box of their tiny teacakes: they are ultra-fresh and truly delicious.QE-2, Petretićev trg 3, tel. (+385-1) 466 21 76, slatkeboje@gmail.com, www.lekolac.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.

PNGBXW MAK NA KONAC The search for the best chocolate cake in all of Zagreb is, for now, at an end. Mak na Konac, with almost two decades of experience in the kitchen, provides some interesting twists on what is the norm in local pastries, or pastries from anywhere for that matter. Bepsoke orders are possible, and Mak na Konac can cater to all tastes, and needs: gluten free, diabetic friendly, dairy free, etc. Open 9 - 9, there’s no excuse to pop your head in and see what’s on offer. More expensive than other places, but well worth it.QE-2, Ulica popa Dukljanina 1, tel. (+385-1) 461 66 54, www.maknakonac.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A MELI They make home-made bajadera - the taste is something like chocolate fudge. Most slastičarnice sell rather similar cakes but this one is quite different: one of their celebration cakes will certainly delight. Call or drop by to order.

Also at Dubovačka 17 (H-3), tel. (+385-1) 369 75 39.QD-2, Vlaška 45, tel. (+385-) 099 369 75 38, info@meli.com. hr, www.meli.com.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun. PNG ORIJENT There are people we know who practically orgasm when they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything is home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other places is made from packet mix. Here it’s fresh cream, and the same stuff goes in the ice cream. Nice old-skool vibe.

QJ-2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23, orijent@ ymail.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PNGW TORTE I TO Lying low in the back of Centar Kaptol’s 2nd floor, this café offers a selection of the most deliriously delectable sweets available in Zagreb as well as some of the most helpful staff in terms of choosing what to eat! With its classic living room style interior and additional seating outside, this locale is a winner. I suggest the carrot cheese cake!QC-1, Nova Ves 11, Centar Kaptol, tel. (+385-1) 486 06 91/(+385-) 099 343 41 11, info@torte-i-to.hr, www. torte-i-to.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.

PNGBW

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ALTERNATIVE AKC MEDIKA Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists’ squat that was granted official status by a city administration eager to pucker up to Zagreb’s alternative community.

A regular menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven club nights attract a healthy cross-section of hedonistically-inclined youth - so you don’t need either dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in. Check out their website to see what’s going on.QA-3, Pierottijeva 11, info@pierottijeva11.org, www.pierottijeva11.org. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00 and on request.

JABUKA This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electropop.QH-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 97, gkjabuka@zg.t-com.hr. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. P MOČVARA This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an off beat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web.QI-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr.

ROUTE 66 This unpretentious roadhouse bar is just behind the National University Library. Along with cheap suds, coffees and pool, you can catch live blues every Sunday. The best Croatian beer (Velebitsko) is well cheap, and there’s an ace old time jukebox full of raaawk! Yeaeah!QJ-3, Paromlinska 47, tel. (+385-1) 611 87 37, kizohc@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 01:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:30. EBW

BARS BACCHUS JAZZ BAR Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar.QC-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. NBXW NEW CAFFE BAR SOVA Caffe Bar Sova, which means owl in Croatian, truly lives up to it’s name, as it is decorated with owl knickknacks - candles, pillows, clocks- in a classy and subtle style. Located facebook.com/zagreb

Esplanade Bar

underground in a spacious room with brick arches, it’s furnished with lush black modern sofas and tables. A low stage is positioned in the center of the room for live music nights. Jazz, rock, solo singers and guitar performances take place Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings. It’s the perfect spot for non-smokers to enjoy some live music, as there is a separate room for smokers.QC-3, Andrije Hebranga 10 (Entrance from Gajeva), tel. (+385-) 099 233 70 00/(+385-) 098 218 941. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. EGBXW KINO KLUB GRIČ There’s nothing not to love about this keen café cinema club. Relax with a coffee or cocktail surrounded by their cool-not-kitshe movie décor in the cozy lounge-loft, main floor or terrace. On weekends, the underground nightclub features live DJs of all irresitably dancable genres. With the reopening of the classic theatre’s cinema space, this hot-spot just off the main square, is a must-see.QC-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 098 40 03 06. Open 07:00 24:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. BXW Spring 2014

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Nightlife MELIN Tucked away just off of one of Zagreb’s most famous streets, Tkalčićeva, Melin functions as a café by day and club by night offering live jazz performances on Friday and Saturday evenings. Decorated in a retro-chic style with old fashioned TV sets used as makeshift tables, the cozy outdoor patio is surrounded by trees and greenery and adorned with old-time radios. Take a seat at one of the mismatched, but stylish colourful chairs and tables and enjoy a drink in this artsy atmosphere.QC-1, Kožarska 19, tel. (+385-1) 488 02 98, melin.bar@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 02:00. EBXW MOJO BAR, WINE RAKIJA & CO. Enjoy a drink in the sunshine on the café terrace, overlooking the fountain, on Trg Hrvatskih Velikana, or enter the underground bar and move into a smoky urban style ambiance. Brick walls, adorned with black-and-white pictures, create a mellow and calming atmosphere. A large selection of wines and rakijas are offered, which can be enjoyed at the live music nights, featuring klapas on Mondays, rock cover bands on Tuesdays, jazz bands on Wednesdays and DJs on the weekends.QD-2, Ulice fra Grge Martića 5, tel. (+385-) 091 526 67 33, marin.levaj@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. XAPW SAVSKA 14 (EX KRIVI PUT) This no-nonesense garden of beer-drinking delights offers grungy good outdoor seating gallour for libations of all kinds at college-kid prices. Curious about the latest goings-on? Hoping to catch a live jazz-blues night? Dropin to find-out as the lack of digital promotions is part of the appeal to this local favorite. Afterall, what’s there not to like about a place that doesn’t bother with a name more than making sure you know where to find them?QA-4, Savska 14. Open 09:00 - 02:00. B SEDMICA This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the number seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too.QA-2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 24:00. PBXW NEW TABAN BAR Leave your footprint at this American downtown-like bar which is located on one of Zagreb’s most popular walking streets. The outdoor patio is the perfect location to sit back with some friends and people watch. Inside, the brick walls, graffiti style writing on a chalkboard and comfy

LGBT CENTRE Social and cultural space, working as a day centre from Wednesday to Saturday 17:00 - 22:00, whilst other days of working time depend on the programme.QD-3, Petrinjska 27, www.lgbtcentar.com.

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Nightlife couches create an urban feel. Usually featuring rock music on Friday nights and DJs on Saturdays, make sure to check online for weekly event details. QC-1, Tkalčićeva 82, tel. (+385-1) 553 35 27, reception@tabanzagreb.com, www. tabanzagreb.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 04:00.

TITUŠ This grotto music café with its décor dedicated to Dillon, Marley and Eastwood adds a taste of the untamed to an otherwise quiet Gornji Grad. Nightly live performances feature up-and-coming local and international musicians.

Get there early for a seat or else enjoy a standing-room only chance to get close and comfy mingling with local folk and rock fans.QB-1, Mesnička 47, tel. (+385-) 091 722 60 65, www.inet.hr/~mmasle/. Open 08:30 - 02:00.

Closed Sun. PBXW VINTAGE INDUSTRIAL BAR This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with graffiti and black and white photography, create the perfect environment to wind-down. And best of all, you don’t need to worry about parking because the front entrance is a spacious parking lot.QI-4, Savska cesta 160, tel. (+3851) 619 17 15, www.vintageindustrial-bar.com. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.

CLUBS GREEN GOLD CLUB Open 24 hours, for daytime café lovers and nightclub owls, Green Gold includes five establishments connected together in one place- Green Gold Club, VIP area, Aussie Bar, Escalator Bar and Pizzeria Al Metro. It offers a variety of live music nights featuring klape and tamburaši to foreign DJs. You can move around the clubs listening to Croatian folk music in one spot to popular American bands in another.

Located in Zagreb’s business district, it’s a great place for corporate functions, a birthday celebration or an all-out bachelor bash. To ensure seating, call ahead to reserve a table for you and your friends.QJ-3, Radnička cesta 52, tel. (+385-) 099 256 33 23, www.greengoldclub.com.hr. Open 22:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. PEXW KINO KLUB JADRAN FILM Located in the outskirts of Zagreb, this club is worth the drive out to Dubrava. Created as part of Jadran Film, one of the best known film studios in the region, between the 1960s and 1990s, Kino Klub offers a unique atmosphere not found in other clubs. Photographs of producers and old films are displayed by the bar, while red, white and black walls offer a simple and relaxing decor. Don’t miss out on experiencing a night out outside of the center!QL-1, Oporovečka 12. Open , Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PGXW Zagreb.inyourpocket.com

KLUB. Created as part of the new Subcultural Center in Zagreb, Klub. is a small and simple arched brick-walled space located underground. It is accessible through the recently opened Joe Strummer Square located in the courtyard of the complex shared by the Beertija Club. Come check out a wide variety of bands to suit any musical taste, from rock ‘n’ roll and indie to electronic and punk at one of Zagreb’s newest hotspots.QD-3, Pavla Hatza 14-16. Open 20:00 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue and Sun. NEW MIKSER Situated in a discrete location outside of the city center, this club is an unexpected treasure found amongst the rubble of building complexes. Mikser is entered through a swerving tunnel into a greyish moon and neon green coloured room, which gives a futuristic space-like feel to the place. Containing two separate floors, this club offers more than just parties, but also cultural events, such as exhibitions and workshops.QK-3, Donje Svetice 40, info@ mikserclub.com, www.mikserclub.com. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00.

PEPERMINT What do you get when you give a clubhouse-style space to a group of experienced DJs, innovative party planners and music fanatics? A fresh cafe-by-day, club-by-night whose groovy decor spans two-storeys of dance floors and lava lounges that will whet your party apetite.QB2, Ilica 24, pepermint@pepermint-zagreb.com, www. pepermint-zagreb.com. Open 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PJNGXW SAX! This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays here every night and is an especially delicious and wide array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies depending on the show - this place is a can’t miss.QD-3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, klub@sax-zg.hr, www.sax-zg.hr. Open 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. NX SHOCK SHOW INDUSTRY - D KATRAN - TRIM KABINET 5REKOVIĆ Located in an alleyway in Zagreb’s business district, this grungy bar offers a variety of special events, including live concerts, film and dance nights. Shock Show Industry, formerly Tvornica Katran, is still nicknamed, ‘Katran,’ by locals.

It’s not just a regular club, but part of a cultural association from Bjelovar, which was founded in 1972, with a branch located in Zagreb. To attend an event, don’t forget to make a reservation ahead of time.QJ-3, Radnička cesta 27bb (door No 17, 2nd floor left), ssipopis@gmail.com. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 07:00. EXW

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NEW SIRUP Sirup recently moved to a new location, the Zagrebački Paromlin, a historic industrial building from the beginning of the 20th century, and is now situated behind the main train station. At night, the building gives off an abandoned and eerie feel and is perfect for thrill seekers and fans of a Jack the Ripper 19th century London atmosphere. The music is so intense that you’ll feel the notes vibrating through your chest. Open only on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights!QJ-3, Koturaška cesta 1, www.sirupclub.com.

Open Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri - Sat 23:00 - 06:00.

VIP CLUB This new to-the-scene club came fresh out of the box push-and-play ready. A classically cool jazz club vibe permates the space, as if reverberations of excellent parties past are what truly hang from the walls, creating a tantilizing promise of more to come. With unique weekly line-ups of live performances ranging from turntables and synthesizers to vocalists and instrumental ensembles, your 20 or 30kn is an all-evening pass to carouse amidst some of Zagreb’s best musical performances.QC-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, info@vip-club.hr, www.vip-club.hr.

Open 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

PUBS BIKERS BEER FACTORY Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip!QI-4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, bikers.beer. factory@gmail.com, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PENGB

JAZZ IN ZAGREB Catching a top notch jazz gig in Zagreb is definitely doable, Croatian and international jazz bands perform regularly. In saying that, there is no venue with a regular every day jazz programme and this list will shed light on the fact that certain venues do hold jazz concerts at least once a month.

BACCHUS JAZZ BARQC-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04.

EX KINOTEKAQA-2, Kordunska 1.

SAXQD-3, Palmotićeva 22, www.sax-zg.hr.

VATROSLAV LISINSKI CONCERT HALLQI-3, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr.

VIP CLUBQC-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, www. vip-club.hr.

ZAGREB STUDENT CENTREQB-4, Savska 25, www.sczg.hr.

ZVONIMIR BAJSIĆ STUDIOQPrisavlje 3 (Croatian Television), www.hrt.hr.

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Sightseeing ESSENTIAL ZAGREB BAN JOSIP JELAČIĆ SQUARE (TRG BANA JOSIPA JELAČIĆA) This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.QC-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića.

MAKSIMIR PARK & THE CITY ZOO (MAKSIMIRSKI PARK I ZOOLOŠKI VRT) A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the four-legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street.QK-1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, www.zgzoo.com. Zoo is open 09:00 - 19:00 (April), 09:00 - 20:00 (May, June), ticket office 09:00 - 18:00 (April), 09:00 - 18:30 (May, June).

Admission 20 - 30kn.

MIROGOJ CEMETERY Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park.

Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ-1, Mirogoj bb.

40 Zagreb In Your Pocket

NIKOLA ŠUBIĆ ZRINSKI SQUARE (TRG NIKOLE ŠUBIĆA ZRINSKOG) The combination of the outdoor gazebo, expertly manicured lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off.

This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you’ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby.QC-2/3, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog.

ST MARK’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. MARKA) The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-ofarms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.QC1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.

STONE GATE (KAMENITA VRATA) This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.QC-1, Kamenita bb.

THE CATHEDRAL OF ASSUMPTION OF THE BLESSED VIRGIN MARY (KATEDRALA MARIJINA UZNESENJA) A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off.

It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00.

QC-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00.

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MUSEUMS ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM IN ZAGREB (ARHEOLOŠKI MUZEJ U ZAGREBU) Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth.QC-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 30 00, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

ARTS AND CRAFTS MUSEUM (MUZEJ ZA UMJETNOST I OBRT) This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides.

These services do not cost extra.QB-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo. hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM (MUZEJ SUVREMENE UMJETNOSTI) What makes this museum remarkable is that rather than presenting a ‘seen-it-all-before’ narrative of what contemporary art is supposed to be, the collection lets the Croatian avant-garde speak for itself. The country experienced an explosion of vibrant abstract painting in the 1950s, while from the 1960s onwards local artists increasingly abandoned painting in favour of conceptual gestures. Željko Jerman’s 1977 Diary features a picture of the artist captioned by a briefly scribbled thought for each day of the year - like an eerie premonition of Facebook. The rich and occasionally bewildering world of Croatian performance art is best summed up by Mio Vesović’s photos of 1981’s I Love Zagreb, when artist Tomislav Gotovac ran naked towards the main square, pausing occasionally to lie down and kiss the asphalt. The quickest way to get here is to take bus no. 229, 268, 310, 311, or 313 from the main railway station (through the Importanne Mall passage). Or take tram no 6. (in the direction of Sopot), 7 (Savski most)

ZAGREB WELCOMES YOU It’s been there since last summer, but for all the reconstruction works in the area you can be wholly forgiven for not realising as much. Measuring just under 13 square metres in area, “Zagreb Welcomes You” is a scale model of much of the Croatian capital, and is situated on Bakačeva which is the street leading from the main square, up to Kaptol. The entire piece features over 2500 addresses, and over 400 distinct structures, all cast beautifully in bronze. The south and west facing sides of the model feature short texts referencing the history of Zagreb in both Croatian and English, and they also showcase the original coat of arms of Zagreb and the seal of Kaptol. Also along the base you can see a number of scenes which depict holidays tied to Croatia and the capital. The model was sculpted by Professor Damir Mataušić, and has already ‘replaced’ the clock on Trg bana Jelačića as the default meeting place for many of the locals.QC-2, Ulica Tome Bakača.

Photo by Igor Markov

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Sightseeing or 14 (Zapruđe). These take you right to the Museum.

Mobile guides in foreign languages are available.QJ-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, msu@ msu.hr, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 15 - 30kn. U CROATIAN HISTORY MUSEUM (HRVATSKI POVIJESNI MUZEJ) The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed.QB-1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00, hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Photo by Jelena Mirkovich

TOP 5 SECRET THINGS TO SEE IN ZAGREB A PORTRAIT OF THE DAUGHTER OF SAMUEL BERGER Located at the Modern Gallery, this painting was created by Vlaho Bukovac, one of the most renowned Croatian painters.

GIRL WITH A BIRD Located at the Zagreb City Museum, this gouache painting was created by Marc Chagall, one of the most successful artists of the 20th century, who used a combination of art forms, such as cubism, symbolism, and fauvism when painting his portraits.

LIBER LINTEUS ZAGREBIENSIS A linen cloth wrapped around a mummy, purchased

by Mihajlo Barić, in 1848, was found to contain a manuscript written, within the fabric, in Etruscan text.

Located at the Archeological Museum in Zagreb, this is the only preserved copy of such a manuscript.

CROATIAN SCHOOL MUSEUM (HRVATSKI ŠKOLSKI MUZEJ) Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.QB-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+3851) 485 57 16, hsm@hsmuzej.hr, www.hsmuzej.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

DRAŽEN PETROVIĆ MUSEUM (MUZEJ DRAŽEN PETROVIĆ) Basketball fans can pay respect to Europe’s greatest ever basketball export. Visit the exhibition on the ground floor of the Cibona Basketball Tower to learn more about the so called basketball Mozart who died tragically (at the age of 29). Dražen Petrović is a member of the American Basketball Hall of Fame and the museum presents winning medals, letters and gifts from his fans, rewards and a few personal objects which are chronologically showcased.

Thanks to the guidance of the excellent staff, visitors are able to learn about his greatness as an athlete and as a human being. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra.QA-4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www.drazenpetrovic.net. Open 10:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. U

STJEPAN ERDÖDY JUMP Located at the Museum of Arts and Crafts, this photograph, taken in 1895 by Karlo Drašković, represents one of the first photographs taken in Croatia.

THE HOLY TRINITY This is the most valuable painting at Strossmayer Gallery. It was created by an anonymous Dutch painter, who is known as the master of paintings, Virgo inter Virgines.

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HORRIBLE HISTORIES CRNA KRALJICA (THE BLACK QUEEN) There are several legends that pass between the generations in Croatia about the Black Queen, but no-one quite knows what the truth is about this mysterious figure. We know that Barbara of Celj was born in 1392 to nobleman Hermann II of Celj. At a young age she was betrothed to the much older King Sigismund of Luxembourg. It seems she was an intelligent and hypnotically beautiful woman who found herself ruling Croatia in her husband’s absence. And here’s where the stories diverge. Was she a merciless ruler, governing with a rod of iron and little pity in her heart? Or was she deeply misunderstood, unpopular simply for being a politically astute woman? On the one hand she is said to have refused water from her plenteous well to her fellow citizens during a drought. On the other she is said to have summoned unearthly forces to create the Plitvice Lakes and bring water to her people. Where does the truth lie?

The debate goes on.Q. GRIČKA VJEŠTICA (THE WITCH FROM GRIČ) Marija Jurić Zagorka (1873-1957) is one of the best-loved Croatian authors as well as one of the first Croatian female journalists. Her tales of old Zagreb are based on historical fact embellished into rich and intriguing tales.

Her most popular work is a cycle of seven novels named “The Witch from Grič”.

Sadly, none of Zagorka’s novels have been translated into English, but luckily for you, dear readers, we’re here to tell you the tale of Zagreb’s most famous witch.

The character was based on a real woman baker in Zagreb, the widow Barica Cindek. She was so appealing as a woman and so successful as a merchant that she attracted the envy of her neighbours and the venom of the men who failed to conquer her.

The hordes of men were always milling around her stall on St Mark’s Square. This put poor Barica in court, accused of keeping a devil in her pocket to entice the helpless males. In those days it didn’t take much to be accused of witchcraft, and it was the jealousy of a spurned notary public that almost put a tragic end to Barica’s tale.

He and other rejected suitors blackmailed other “witches” to point the finger at Barica in return for their freedom. So Barica found herself imprisoned. However, at that time educated folk were starting to protest against witch-hunts, and Barica was spared being burnt at the stake (this time with the help of the notary who had been paid off by Barica’s lawyer).

Zagorka researched real court archives for her story: there were great numbers of women - and men - who were proclaimed in league with the devil by a hysterical and envious society. Although Zagorka herself was born more than a century after the last “witch” was burned at the stake, as the first woman journalist in Croatia she likely felt the same condemnation from society, which is facebook.com/zagreb

probably why she spoke strongly against discrimination.

A true role model, Zagorka is still delighting and inspiring readers today.

So, as you walk the quaint streets of Zagreb’s upper town, if you catch the eye of a pretty and successful woman remember the tale of Barica!Q. KAMENI SVATOVI (STONE WEDDING) Kameni svatovi is the name of a picturesque collection of rock pillars on the western slopes of Mount Medvednica, at about 400m above the level of the road over the village of Jablanovec. The name means “Stone Wedding”, and in a moment you’ll find out exactly why. This is a popular destination for hikers, both due to the attractiveness of the rocks themselves and to the fabulous views over the Zagorje region, the Samoborsko gorje uplands, the Žumberak hills, and, on clear days, all the way to the Kamnik Alps and Mount Triglav (2864m) in Slovenia. According to legend, the pillars represent the wedding of a young miller and his love, a poor girl named Janja, turned to stone. The miller’s family was wealthy and his mother was set on a rich wife for her son, a suitable match for such a family. But as often happens when the heart prevails, he had fallen in love with Janja, the daughter of a penniless blind man.

The miller’s mother was beside herself, but her husband stood by his son as he himself had started out without a penny to his name. He ordered his wife to cease her protests. On the day of the wedding the mother was not among the wedding guests since she was at home cooking and preparing for their arrival. However, in a moment of rage she swore that lightning would strike and turn the wedding party to stone before she let Janja into her home. And that is exactly what happened. The wedding turned to stone still stands today.

This attractive place is the perfect end to a fine but not over-demanding walk. If you are already on mount Medvednica, you can approach from Ponikve, a field on the southwest slopes of the mountain above the beginning of the D1 main road from Zagreb to Zabok. Or, you can come from the eastern suburbs of Gornji Stenjevec or Podsused, or from Jablanovec village itself.Q. KRVAVI MOST (BLOODY BRIDGE) In the old days, Zagreb was made up of two settlements, Gradec and Kaptol, set on neighbouring hills with the Medveščak stream dividing them. The inhabitants of the two towns would often get into quarrels and fights, and one of the places where such altercations would take place (often ending up in bloody noses) was the bridge over the Medveščak. Thus the bridge earned its name: Krvavi most (“Bloody Bridge”). The stream was diverted underground and its course paved over when a sewerage system was built, and the bridge, thus useless, was knocked down. But the small and quiet street connecting Radićeva ulica and Tkalčićeva still bears its scarysounding name.Q. Spring 2014

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Sightseeing

Meet the Croatian version of the “Trotter brothers“ - Hrelić Flea Market

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ) High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages.

Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 150kn per tour.QB-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr.

Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. U MEŠTROVIĆ ATELIER - IVAN MEŠTROVIĆ MUSEUMS (ATELIJER MEŠTROVIĆ - MUZEJI IVAN MEŠTROVIĆ) Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it is here where he complited many of his art works and monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago.QB-1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@ mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

TECHNICAL MUSEUM (TEHNIČKI MUZEJ) All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellorpowered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.QA-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@tehnickimuzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn.

Planetarium admission 15kn.

THE CROATIAN NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM (HRVATSKI PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ) Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more.

Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers-by.QB-1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 20kn.

THE GLYPTOTHEQUE OF THE CROATIAN ACADEMY OF SCIENCES AND ARTS (GLIPTOTEKA HAZU) This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra.QI-2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50, gliptoteka@hazu.hr, www.gliptoteka.mdc.hr.

Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

THE MIMARA MUSEUM (MUZEJ MIMARA) The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English.QB-3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@mimara.

hr, www.mimara.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U TYPHLOLOGY MUSEUM (TIFLOLOŠKI MUZEJ) This brilliant museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available.QD-3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, info@tifloloskimuzej.hr, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

ZAGREB CITY MUSEUM (MUZEJ GRADA ZAGREBA) With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind.QC-1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz.hr, www.mgz.hr.

Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

THE CROATIAN MUSEUM OF NAIVE ART (HRVATSKI MUZEJ NAIVNE UMJETNOSTI) Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 200 - 300kn for every 30 minutes.QC-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

TOMISLAV GOTOVAC Ever wanted to walk in the footsteps of someone famous? Well, with Tomislav Gotovac, Croatian actor, director, and performance artist, you can. On Zagreb’s main street, not a few minutes walk from the main square, you will come across imprints of his feet, placed there in celebration of his piece, “Zagreb, I Love You”, when in 1981 he ran naked down Ilica, kissing the road as he went. It’s unlikely that the locals would look too favourably on a repeat of this famed event by a tourist, but you’ll never know unless you try!QC-2, Ilica 8.

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Seventies Style

Seventies Style

SPIRIT OF 76 Zagreb in the Seventies. In March this year Zagreb said farewell to the architect Slavko Jelinek (1925-2014), co-creator of Zagrepčanka, the building that more than any other symbolizes the aspirations and energies of Zagreb in the 1970s. Completed in 1976, this office block on Savska cesta is still the city’s highest -at least, that is, if you include the radio mast on the top. It also remains one of the few skyscrapers that people in Zagreb actually express a genuine fondness for, not least because it symbolizes a time when their city seemed to be on the threshold of some progressive, modern future. Indeed the Seventies saw the culmination of Zagreb’s emergence as a skyscraper city. With the housing projects of Novi Zagreb and the Sava riverbank (initially conceived in the 1950s) now nearing completion,

Fraktura Archives

the Zagrepčanka building was seen as the crowning glory of a forward-looking epoch. At the start of the decade however Zagreb found itself the focus of European attention for rather different reasons. The Croatian Communist Party had begun 1970 by shaking off the unitarist policies hitherto favoured by the Yugoslav communist leadership, embarking on a campaign to give Croatia more political weight within the Yugoslav Federation. Dubbed the “Croatian Spring”, the campaign soon grew into a popular movement. There were suggestions that Yugoslav leader President Tito looked favourably on Croatia’s new direction. However what could have been a period of great political change ended up as a decade of might-have-beens. Tito opted to clamp down on the movement in November 1971: Croatia’s pro-autonomy communist chiefs were forced to resign, student leaders were imprisoned, and the republic entered a long period of political timidity - an era only brought to an end by the Yugoslav crisis of the late 1980s.

The increasing greyness of the political scene contrasted sharply with an upsurge in urban culture. Zagreb’s art scene had always occupied a position independent from both the commercial gallery-art of the West and the socialist art of the East, something that became increasingly evident in the ironic, subversive and mischievously abrasive art that came to the fore as the Seventies progressed. Under the trailblazing curatorial leadership of Želimir Koščević, the Student Centre Gallery (then a much more important place 46 Zagreb In Your Pocket

NaMa

than it is nowadays) championed the new, hard-to-categorize art of performances, happenings, and conceptual gestures. The generation of artists who came to prominence at this time - Mladen Stilinović, Sanja Iveković, Goran Trbuljak and the late Tomislav Gotovac among them- are nowadays considered classics of Croatian contemporary culture, and works by them form the inspirational core of the collection at Zagreb’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MSU).

Many of these emerging cultural energies came to public attention via Polet, the agenda-setting youth magazine that had disappeared in 1969 only to be relaunched in 1976. It was edited by Pero Kvesić, a writer whose short-story collection An Introduction to Pero K (1975) had helped to define a new, independent, jeans-wearing generation - it remains a cult title today. By the late Seventies Polet had become Croatia’s answer to the NME, mixing enthusiastic coverage of the latest rock bands with subversive social comment.

IN ZAGREB CITY TOURS Don’t miss out on experiencing one of the inZagreb City Tours with Panoramic Rides during your stay in Zagreb. Learn about the diverse history, architecture, and gastronomy of this great Middle-European city.

These tours offer not only standard sightseeing around Downtown and the Old Town but also a stroll around the Neo-Renaissance Cemetery and a visit to the Farmers’ markets to get a taste of the local cuisine. Definitely one of the highlights is the New Zagreb tour where you can see buildings from the Socialist era, visit the biggest Fairground in ex-Yugoslavia, sip coffee at the beautiful Bundek lake, and hear local stories first-hand.

Also, a visit to the nearby picturesque town of Samobor with a tasting of its delicious regional specialities like kremšnite cake and bermet aromatic wine, plus an adventurous ferry ride across the Sava river, is definitely a must. The tours are conducted by local guides in an Opel Zafira (max 4 people) or minivan (max 8 people).

Tours last from 2.5 to 4.5 hrs.

Polet was one of the best training grounds that Croatian culture ever had: almost every writer, photographer and designer who ever worked for the magazine went on to become a leading practitioner in their field.

It’s nowadays difficult to reconstruct the nocturnal Zagreb in which Polet-reading hipsters hung out: popular cafes like Korzo, Medulić and Tingl-Tangl are no more; while Kavkaz, Gradska Kavana and Blato have changed beyond recognition.

The year 1976 also saw the Rolling Stones perform two consecutive nights in Zagreb’s Dom sportova sports hall (a venue that was itself a child of the Seventies, opened in 1972). It was the Stones’ first appearance in communistruled Europe since the near-riot that was their visit to Warsaw in 1967. Daily newspaper Vjesnik’s review of the concert was unexpectedly reserved: the Stones had been anticipated as the very incarnation of rock and roll, and yet at the end of the day were just flesh-and-blood human beings giving a concert. In terms of media coverage, the event was in any case outshone by football: the European Championships were being held in Yugoslavia at the same time. Zagreb’s Maksimir stadium hosted both a semi-final, in which Czechoslovakia beat the Netherlands 3-1; and the third-place play-off, which saw the Netherlands vanquish the Yugoslavs 3-2.

Otherwise, the Seventies were something of a lean decade, sports-wise. Despite enjoying domestic and European success in the 1960s, the city’s football team Dinamo Zagreb suffered an almost total trophy drought in the 1970s - although they did win the nowadays almost totally forgotten Balkans Cup, in which they triumphed against Sportul Studentesc of Bucharest, in 1976. In basketball, Zagreb’s premier team Cibona (then playing under the name of Lokomotiva) won the inaugural edition of the European Korać cup in 1972, but otherwise failed to make much of an impact.

The most epoch-defining event to shake Zagreb in the Seventies came in December 1977 when Slovene punk rock band Pankrti performed at an exhibition opening at the Student Centre Gallery. Their appearance had an electrifying effect on an audience that seemed to have been waiting for this kind of cacophony all their lives. The appearance

sparked a slow-burning musical revolution led by local bands Prljavo Kazalište and Azra. Both groups released their first records in 1979, going on to enjoy massive success in the years that followed.

Prljavo Kazalište founder-member Jasenko Houra once said that many of Zagreb’s first-generation punks were basically Rolling Stones fans who couldn’t play their instruments and therefore opted for punk as the easiest means of expression available. The boys from Dartford certainly had a lot to answer for.

Jonathan Bousfield

Guslač na krovu, 1970 (Komedija Theatre Archives)

Tel. (+385-) 091 652 32 01, info@inzagreb.com, www.inzagreb.com.

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Chapter 15

Daily trip ON THE TESLA TRAIL IYP looks at the career of Croatia’s greatest inventor

by Jonathan Bousfield There’s nowadays little dispute about the fact that Nikola Tesla (1856-1943) was one of the greatest inventors of all time, putting his personal stamp on the electrical age with his pioneering work on alternating current, electric lighting, x-rays and radio waves. However he is also one of the most ambiguous and enigmatic figures in modern science, working for years on projects which never yielded any results, or talking portentously of discoveries that he never got round to demonstrating. When he died in relative poverty (as a long-term resident of room 3327 of the New Yorker Hotel), he wasn’t just celebrated as one of the defining scientists of the modern epoch, but also remembered as the archetypal nutty professor: a misunderstood genius; a near-recluse with strange habits; a frustrating figure who had made major breakthroughs early in his life only to disappoint later on.

The son of a Serbian Orthodox priest from the Lika village of Smiljan, Tesla has long been celebrated as one of the greatest figures to be born on Croatian soil, and it’s no surprise that there are several signs of his legacy in Zagreb.

A statue of Tesla by Croatia’s greatest 20th-century sculptor Ivan Meštrović squats meditatively on the corner of Preradovićeva, providing a place of pilgrimage for visiting techno-geeks. The Technical Museum on Savska cesta boasts the “Tesla Laboratory”, a display area detailing many of the man’s inventions. For the indefatigable Tesla-spotter, there’s a plaque on the wall of Zagreb’s Old Town Hall on Ćirilometodska in the Gornji Grad recalling the great scientist’s visit to the city on May 24 1892, when he proposed building a municipal power station based on alternating current - an offer that came to nothing at the time.

The ultimate in Tesla heritage experiences however is the trip to his native Smiljan, 205km southwest of Zagreb. It’s here that a complex of traditional buildings - including reconstructions of his father’s parish church and the house where the Tesla family lived - has been adapted to serve as the Nikola Tesla Memorial Centre. Located close to the Gospić exit of the Zagreb-Split motorway, it can quite feasibly be included in a one- or two-day tip the nearby Plitvice Lakes National Park. A visit to the centre offers the chance to enjoy a short documentary film about the inventor’s life, a words-and-pictures chronology covering his major contributions to science, and examples of his inventions in action - including plenty that’s of a hands-on, interactive nature. The centre also boasts one of Croatia’s most imaginative outdoor play-parks, with features designed to amuse a wide age-range of children. Smiljan is set in one of the most picturesque and unspoilt parts of Croatia, where rolling green hills alternate with semi-barren rocky plains.

Tesla only spent a small portion of his long life in Smiljan, attending school in Gospić from the age of 6, then going away to the secondary school in Karlovac at 14. He won a scholarship to study at Graz Polytechnic but the grant was

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withdrawn due to administrative boundary changes - Tesla took to gambling in the hope of winning additional funds, but ultimately had to leave the Polytechnic without ever finishing the course. He nevertheless found work as chief electrician in Budapest’s first telephone exchange, experience that won him subsequent employment with the Paris branch of the Edison Company. His thorough understanding of electric motors won him an invitation to work with Thomas Edison in New York. The two men did not get on, however; Edison famously offered Tesla $50,000 to re-design his electric generators, only to claim later that the deal had been an off-the-cuff joke. Tesla worked as a manual labourer in order to save up the funds to launch his own operation, the Tesla Electric Company, in 1887. It was Tesla’s pioneering work in alternating current - and the support of entrepreneur George Westinghouse - that provided him with his professional breakthrough. He used his alternating current system to provide electric power to a pavilion at the Chicago Fair in 1893; an electricity generating station using Tesla’s system went into operation at Niagara Falls three years later.

Exhibition Design - Nikolina Jelavić Mitrović

Tesla’s work on radio waves and the transmission of electrical energy enabled him to demonstrate a remote controlled model boat at Madison Square Garden in 1898.

When Guglielmo Marconi made the first transatlantic radio transmission in 1901, he did so by building on many of Tesla’s innovations. Tesla set up a laboratory in Colorado Springs in 1899, where he conducted numerous experiments in generating high-voltage electricity, but by this stage he was already making a habit of squandering investors’ money in long-term research that yielded few practical results. The attempt to build a huge radio transmitter at Wardenclyffe outside New York was similarly inconclusive.

In 1915 Tesla was rumoured to have won the Nobel Prize for Physics jointly with Thomas Edison, but the Nobel committee appeared to change its mind and gave it to someone else instead. By this time Tesla was turning into the kind of eccentric scientist who was shrouded in mystique rather than real scientific success. He claimed to have invented a death ray but never divulged any of the details; and when he died in 1943 the FBI impounded his papers on the off chance that they might contain some world-shaking theoretical innovations. There is no evidence that they found anything of the sort; Tesla’s status as the ultimate misunderstood genius nevertheless continues to rise.

NIKOLA TESLA MEMORIAL CENTRE QSmiljan bb, tel. (+385- 53) 74 65 30, mcnikolatesla@ mcnikolatesla.hr, www.mcnikolatesla.hr. Open 08:00 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 50kn.

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Shopping

Shopping GALERIJA KERUBIN Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff.QC-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, galerija-kerubin@net.amis.hr, www.galerijakerubin. com.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A GALERIJA MALA A variety of pictures and sculptures.QC-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 69 54, galerijamala@ galerijamala.hr, www.galerijamala.hr. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A INKUBATOR (TKALČIĆEVA 30) Contemporary art gallery.QC-1, tel. (+385-1) 557 77 37, info@galerija-inkubator.hr, www.galerija-inkubator.hr.

Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N

MORE STYLE FOR LESS CASH BRITANSKI TRG ANTIQUE MARKET Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement.

Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin.

Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.QA-2, Britanski trg.

Spring has also arrived among Jasmina’s Dolls at Petrinjska 40.

ANTIQUES APARTMAN Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff.QA-2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Open 09:00 19:30, Mon 13:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A MIROSLAV TISCHLER A lovely little gallery set in a courtyard behind the street, with antiques and art to suit all pockets. The friendly Mr.Tischler specialises in antique pens and lamps, but other delights to be found include decorative tin packaging, toys and corkscrews. A selection of art ranges from posters to pieces by contemporary local artists.QB-2, Ilica 66, tel. (+385-1) 492 08 58/(+385-) 098 234 299, miroslav. tischler@penkala.net. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N

ART GALLERIES GALERIJA GRUBIĆ Come here to find the work of Prica, Murtić, Veža, Vojvodić, Kraljević, Bukovac, Vidović, Stančić and other Croatian artists.

QC-1, Radićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 33 70, galerija.grubic@ gmail.com, www.galerija-grubic.com. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A 50 Zagreb In Your Pocket

HRELIĆ (JAKUŠEVAC) FLEA MARKET You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Glavni kolodvor Station, this line is available only on Sundays and it leaves the Glavni kolodvor at 07:20, 08:00, 08:40, 09:20, 10:00, 10:40, 11:20, 12:00 and 12:40. Tickets purcahsed only with the bus driver are valid on this bus line.QK-5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac.

ULIČNI ORMAR Classy-cool, new-to-you and take-me-home prices, this spot’s got all the ingredients of a second-hand shoppers’ heaven smack-dab in the city center. The bright and spacious shop offers a boutique-esque atmosphere to browse a collection including pea coats, handbags and unique knits sure to spice up any man or woman’s wardrobe without emptying their pockets.QD-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00, info@mrav-dizajn.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 50kn. A Zagreb.inyourpocket.com

GALERIJA LAUDATO Croatian sacred Art. QD-2, Iblerov trg 10 (Importane Gallerija, Mezanin 317), tel. (+385-1) 464 68 88, iwww. galerije.laudato.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

SOUVENIRS BROKULA&Ž CONCEPT STORE ‘All that is important, comes from within’, that is the philosophy behind two of Zagreb’s designers in Bruketa and Žinić. These gents have gone green with an eco-brand of clothing and underwear made of organic cotton and material.QC-2, Teslina 9, tel. (+385-1) 640 68 30, gukni@ brokulaz.com, www.brokulaz.com. Open 10:00 – 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A LEGA-LEGA The word lega, which is short for a colleague, is slang and especially dear to Osijek locals. At this store you can find notebooks, diaries, T shirts and other products with original designs amidst a sea of offered goods. Choose the one that truly reveals your character the best.QB-2, Masarykova 19, tel. (+385-1) 485 53 69, info@lega-lega. com, www.lega-lega.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

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ZIG ZAG The ‘bear’ is back with Medveščak! Our favourite ice-hockey club Medveščak has its own fan shop with a whopping amount of merchandise and souvenirs located in the city

COMICS LASTAN Comic fans will sigh ‘I think I’m in heaven’ upon entering this small comic shop with thousands of strips on offer. It encompasses a comic library, gallery and souvenir section. Authors and illustrators are known to hold book signings and presentations there!QJ-3, Radnička cesta 22, tel. (385-1) 605 58 82, lastan@ lastan.hr, www.lastan.hr. Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. STRIPOVI NA KVADRAT An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as the best known English editions are hot off the press here. Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and gifts are also available and their website is updated with the latest releases.QC-3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 77, prodaja@ stripovi.hr, www.stripovi.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

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Shopping centre. Its mascot of a bear has become a prized symbol around town.QC-2, Praška 10, tel. (+385-1) 561 73 45, www.medvescak.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. JA

A GOOD OLD VINYL DANCING BEAR CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream.

QB-2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, maloprodaja.zagreb@dancingbear.hr, www.dancingbear.hr.

Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. DOBAR ZVUK Conveniently close to the city center, this little shop has got a big selection of CDs and DVDs at pocket-change prices. Get your old-school on with 5 kuna cassette tapes or 45’ vinyl from 10 kuna. Try new artists or revisit old in this well-organized music collection spanning all genres and claiming to be Croatia’s largest.QC-3, Preradovićeva 24, tel. (+385-1) 485 47 05, stjepan.poslek@zg.t-com.hr.

Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. FREE BIRD We dare you to browse Free Bird’s vinyl collection without getting giddy. While the complete catalogue is available online, no digital interface matches the analogue pleasure of letting your fingers walk crate after crate of music covering five decades of all genres and prices starting at 9

PHOTO GALLERY RAZGLEDNICE This is a must visit spot for any tourist (or resident) who finds themselves fascinated with the architecture and pace of life of the Croatian capital. It’s small, to be sure, but within you will find photos, of all shapes and sizes, reflecting the aforementioned elements of the city. Some are rather straightforward, while others will have you mesmerised. Prices are set to suit all pockets and only great things lie ahead for this establishment.

For the month of December, photographer Kristijan Tabet has relocated his gallery to the main tent on Jelačić trg, where he is exhibiting his stunning work over the holiday period. Perfect for last minute presents.QC-2, Radićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 095 566 43 13, www.kristijantabet.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N

Shopping kn. Expand your experience of Balkan performers in their regional music section. Misplaced your turntable? They’ve got a roomful starting at 300 kn.QA-4, Tratinska 50, tel. (+385-1) 382 18 70, www.freebird.hr. Open 08:30 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 9 kn. A

ART SHOPS ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM SHOP Take home a piece of history with you today from the museum souvenir shop. Items include: ushepti figurines, tripartite jugs, the head of a Pharaoh and many, many more.

QC-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. A HNK ART SHOP Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy items with motifs from different theatre shows.QB-3, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@ hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. Usually operates from 10:00 13:00 and every evening when there are shows on. A IGGY Croatian labels offering a wide selection of skirts, shirts, slippers and many more local creations.QB-2, Varšavska 10, tel. (+385-1) 483 31 83, igrajna@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A JASMINA I LUTKICE A beautiful and unique collection of handmade dolls and stuffed animals.QD-3, Petrinjska 40, tel. (+385-) 098 79 57 73, jasmina.i.lutkice@gmail.com. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. KLOTO Accessorize with handmade designs inspired by Gothic, Lolita and Pinup.QB-2, Masarykova 14, tel. (+385-1) 487 26 59, udrugakloto@gmail.com, www.udrugakloto.hr.

Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A MSU SHOP A great choice of books and works by Croatian and international designers.QJ-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 58, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. MUO SHOP Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of Arts and Crafts.QB-3, Trg Maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. A PROSTOR A place for all lovers of design and creativity! A showroom with a wide range of products where works and new ideas by independent artists and contemporary design-

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ers act as inspiration for visitors.QB-2, Mesnička 5 (passage), tel. (+385-1) 484 60 16, info@prostoreshop.com, www.prostoreshop.com. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A PROSTOR MANUFAKTURNE SLOBODE (PMS) An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate hand-crafts and new age ideas.QC-2, Tkalčićeva 61, javolimpms@gmail.com. Open 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 15:00. Closed Sun. A ZELENI SLON Accessorize with earrings, brooches, necklaces and tote bags made using creative patterns and animal designs.

QB-2, Ilica 14, petrazabcic@yahoo.com. Open 12:00 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

DELICATESSEN ČAJOTEKA All kinds of teas to collect and sip. Brits: this is the only pure teahouse in town that we know of.QB-2, Jurišićeva 19 (Rotonda Center), tel. (+385-1) 483 37 11, info@ cajoteka.info, www.cajoteka.info. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A CAPRILO Local dairy specialist Vindija displays its finest in Caprilo delicatessen. This milk-based wonderland provides plenty to taste and enjoy in the heart of the city center. Perfect for a souvenir stop or afternoon snack.QC-2, Bakačeva ulica 3, tel. (+385-42) 39 96 44. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 15:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. A GALERIJA KULIN GALOVIĆ Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat).

It is a meat-lovers oasis!QE-2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1) 457 20 05, www.kulin-galovic.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A GAVRILOVIĆ A food gallery, specialising in various meats. A tradition beginning in the 19th Century, this is a favourite of the locals in spite of its expense. Famous for their pates, kulen (spiced Slavonian meat) and various other dried meat.

QC-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 02, www.gavrilovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. JA GLIGORA Award-winning Pag cheese manufactures from Kolan, located on the Island Pag.QC-2, Dolac Market, tel. (+3851) 580 12 84, www.sirena.hr. Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. A

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Shopping

CITY CENTRE SHOPPING Kućarin Spice and Croatian products store

Ulični Ormar D-2, Jurišićeva 16, tel. (+385-1)

Galerija Kerubin C-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, galerija-kerubin@net. amis.hr, www.galerijakerubin.com.hr Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00

Jasmina i Lutkice D-3, Petrinjska 40, tel. (+385-) 098 79 57 73, jasmina.i.lutkice@gmail.com QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun.

MAŠ Forma – Unique hand made products,

Kišobrani Cerovečki - Since 1912 - Handmade

C-1, Krvavi most 3, tel. (+385-1) 562 12 33, info@kucarin.hr, www.kucarin.hr Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00

KANDIT Chocoholics come hence forth and try the candy and sweets from this Osijek chocolate factory. Reward yourself with their irresistible Rum Bar and Riki Chocolate!QD-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 53, www.kandit. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. JA KUĆA ZELENOG ČAJA A teahouse selling dozens of aromatised black, green, white, herbal, fruit and rooibos teas.QB-2, Ilica 14 (Passage Lovački rog), tel. (+385-1) 483 06 67, kontakt@ kucazelenogcaja.com,www.kucazelenogcaja.com.

Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA

NATURA CROATICA A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies.QC-3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76, nc@naturacroatica.com, www. naturacroatica.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sun. A PINKLEC DELICIJA So much more than sustenance, a wealth of Croatian culinary mastery lay only a few minutes from the main square where it fills this speciality delicatessen. Unique, regional flavors fill cured meats, cheeses, olive oils, truffels are offered along with most any other palatte-pleasing product.

Delight the senses with some cultural spelunking and souvenir indulgence.QE-2, Martićeva 14c, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 11. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

LE PRASE Welcome to the smallest store in town, but one with a lot of heart. Le prase is a family business that has grown quite popular with its handmade and original gifts that are a permanent reminder of your stay in our beautiful old city. All the items have been designed and created in the store. The icons of the store are the ‘pig’ that guards your dreams and memories as well as a ‘girl’ who travels through time. If you are in Zagreb for a little longer, staff are more than happy and able to make a personalised gift just for you and your loved ones.

QC-2, Radićeva 5, tel. (+385-)098 21 74 84, www.leprase. com. Open 11:00 – 19:00, Sat 10:00 – 15:00. Closed Sun.

C-1, Tkalčićeva 56, Zagreb,www.mas-forma.hr Open 10:00 – 21:00, Sat 10:00 – 20:00

JEWELLERY

492 65 00, info@mrav-dizajn.com Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00

B-2, Ilica 49, 10000 Zagreb, tel. (+385-1) 484 74 17, thomislav.cerovecki@gmail.com, www.kisobrani-cerovecki.hr Open 08:30-20:00, Sat 08:00-14:30

OBLAK One-of-a-kind pieces by the Croatian designer Dijana Z.QC-2, Radićeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 91, diana. zelmanovic@gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A OTVORENI ATELIER LUMEZI Zagreb jeweller Lazer Lumezi has become a cult figure among the discerning fashion queens of Zagreb in the 30 years of his career. His pieces could best be described as architectural jewel bugs. He cuts raw materials such as silver, amber and emeralds to show off their natural beauty, and his shapes are intriguing blends of organic and industrial. Culty - maybe. Unusual - definitely.

QC-2, Tkalčićeva 53, tel. (+385-1) 492 16 68, atelierlumezi@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

2

Stripovi C-3 Preradovićeva 34, (+385-1) 483 77 77 prodaja@stripovi.hr, www.stripovi.hr Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00

Galerija Laudato D-2, Iblerov trg 10 (Importanne Galleria, mezanin 317), tel. (+385-1) 464 68 88, www.galerije.laudato.hr Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00

THESAURUS Nice, rich jewellery made of precious metals and natural materials mostly inspired by Far East.QB-2, Dežmanov prolaz 5, tel. (+385-) 091 536 33 18/(+385-) 091 516 62 22, www.thesaurus-jewellery.com. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A 54 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Shopping

Weekend Adventure SPECIALTY STORES

2014. Quicksilver 675 sundeck

6.75m. Max. 8 people. boat excursions

CHILL The to-go place for an awesome selection of colourful skateboard and snowboards!QC-2, Petrinjska 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 481 05 34, shop@chill.hr, www.chill.hr. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A

special events sunset cruise

BG FISHING

transfers

overnight charter

big game fishing

THE BACK DOOR STORE Vroom, vroom! The perfect stop for clothing, shoes and gloves for motorcycle lovers.QA-4, Savska cesta 144, tel. (+385-1) 619 13 88, thebackdoor144@gmail.com, www. thebackdoor144.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Meet Croatian inventors through the charming and cheerful collection, Lana's DuckAss, which can be found at Take me home in Tomićeva 4 and Iggy in Varšavska10.

LUXURY MARIA One of the most exclusive multi-brand shops in Croatia and their second luxurious conceptual boutique. Indulge yourself in some of the most prestigious designer collections by fashion greats such as Alaia, Lanvin, Valentino, or Saint Laurent, for the ultimate chic shopping experience.

QB-2, Masarykova 8, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 11, info@ mariastore.hr, www.mariastore.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA

GOLDEN LICITAR Traditionally, a licitar is a bright red biscuit that is shaped like a heart. It is beautifully decorated, with an icing-like swirl outlining its borders, along with flowers and a small mirror located in its center. Made of sweet honey dough, the licitar, has been a part of northern Croatia’s cultural heritage, since the 16th century, when the original licitar makers were known as Medičari. Over the years, this colourful heart has become a traditional symbol of Zagreb and a classic souvenir. Now, instead of being made by a baker, goldsmiths have transformed these symbolic hearts into dazzling pieces of jewelry. Their bright red colours have been combined with gold and silver to create necklaces, bracelets and brooches. Each heart can be further adorned with precious stones, rubies, sapphires, diamonds or corals to create a truly beautiful piece of jewelry. Show your affection for those you cherish in your heart with this time-honoured symbol of love.QC-1, Radićeva 10, lapidarium@net.hr, www. zlatarna-mario.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 15:00. Closed Sun. A

ZELENA STANICA New Eco-bags for the environmentally friendly and ‘home boxes’ for indoor planting.QH-4, Moščenićka 15, tel. (+385-1) 383 97 14/(+385-) 099 502 26 06, zs@ zelenastanica.com, www.zelenastanica.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat by prior arrangement. Closed Sun.

WINE SHOPS BORNSTEIN This is a boutique wine store in town and its run by a team that will tell you the A-Z of the fine grape drop.

Its new owners have reinvigorated this immaculate wine bar located just above the Zagreb Cathedral, in a 19th century basement. Over 300 wines are available from small family owned wineries to the more prestige sorts.QC-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 23 61, info@bornstein.hr, www.bornstein.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A ILOČKI PODRUMI Ilok is a town in Slavonia known for its wines. This store is known for its good selection of them.QC-1, Kaptol 12, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 93, ilocki-podrumi@ zg.t-com.hr, www.ilocki-podrumi.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A VIVATINA The wine is per excellence but one must exacerbate the traditional cuisine ala Croata! Quality cheese, prosciutto, venison pate, spreads and condiments, capers, pastries, traditional sausages, dried octopus tentacles, olive oil…. Mouth-watering anti pasta foods and to delight! As for the name itself, wine is the forte here with over 500 labels from across the globe. So one ought to combine a fine drop with a time-honoured nibble!QI-4, Prisavlje 2 (Boćarski dom), tel. (+385-1) 619 59 68, maloprodaja@vivatina.hr, www.vivatina. hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Contact us today! +385 914191452 +385 993332829 www.dubrovnikboatcharter.com www.biggamedubrovnik.com

BIG GAME FISHING The great thing about a country of such small size and perfectly along the sea is that wherever you go, the sea is relatively quick and easy to reach whether it’s by your own car, rent a car or plane! Another bonus is the delights the sea offers, from culinary to recreation and adventure. For those who seek a true escapade, the sport of fishing and for that matter big game fishing is a buzz. In recent years the sport has been a drawing card for gentlemen in suits and working uniforms, the very moment they turn into fishermen and are driven by the sea is when the adrenaline pumps exponentially through your veins, meaning you leave behind your everyday life and immerse yourself into the serene world of the Adriatic Sea. Big game fishing is organised via phone and can last up to half a day or the entire day, it can be midweek or over weekend depending on your preference, weather conditions and the availability of the ship. The usual period is from May to November.

Perhaps the best thing is that everyone can participate, whether they are beginners or experienced fishermen, since an experienced captain who leads the tour adapts to the experience of the participants and makes sure that everyone savours their adventure. One does not need to bring anything on board - all equipment is included, along with a snack and drinking water Qtel. (+385-) 091 419 14 50/(+385-) 091 419 14 54, www.biggamedubrovnik.com.

www.inyourpocket.com 56 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Let our experienced team create a special offer to make your visit to Dubrovnik unforgettable

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THE CITY ON FOUR RIVERS Karlovac is well known for its location on four rivers which really have a lot to offer. These four rivers have greatly influenced the community of Karlovac from trade to industry to survival, and they were a vital connection of inland Croatia with the Mediterranean coast. The most popular of the four is the Kupa River, where in all months of the year, especially in winter, the fishermen come to try their hand, while adventurers go rafting in spring. The Korana and the Mrežnica Rivers also have their fishing delights, yet their fresh clear waters are more enticing to the exploratory traveller, for it is here that water sports take place, especially on the wilder Mrežnica River. The Mrežnica is perfect for rafting and canoeing and has a multitude of waterfalls and cascades that, along with its warm summer waters make for heavenly swimming. The Dobra River is smaller then former two. It’s also perfect for a lazy family afternoon sailing, picnicking or for bathing in the crystal clear waters. If you take your fishing seriously, be sure to get a piece of the action in and around Karlovac. No matter what your preferences, there are plenty of spots to choose from and a rich variety of biting fish to entice you.

QKarlovac Tourist Board, Petra Zrinskog 3, tel. (+385-47) 60 06 06, info@karlovac-touristinfo.hr, www.karlovactouristinfo.hr.

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Hotels CREAM OF THE CROP SHERATON ZAGREB HOTEL QD-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+3851) 455 30 35, sheraton.zagreb@sheraton.com, www. hotel-sheratonzagreb.com. 306 rooms (254 doubles €105 - 135, 28 suites €175 - 270, 23 Executive Rooms €130 - 160, 1 Presidential Suite €1000 - 1500). Pi J H A R 6 U F L G B K D X CwW hhhhh THE WESTIN ZAGREB QA-3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westin.zagreb@westin.com, www.hotelwestinzagreb.com. 349 rooms (308 doubles €125 - 170, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €175 - 220, 1 Presidential Suite €1500, 19 Executive Suites €260 - 310, 2 Delux Suites €560 - 592). PZOTJHA R6UFLGBKDXCwW hhhhh

Chapter 20 DUBROVNIK QC-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+385-1) 486 35 06, reservations@hotel-dubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. 234 rooms (102 singles €135, 91 King Twin Rooms €150 - 174, 33 Delux Rooms €200, 4 Junior Suites €350, 3 Executive Suites €400, 1 Presidential Suite €220). POTJHA6UFL GBKXW hhhh HOTEL INTERNATIONAL QC-4, Miramarska 24, tel. (+385-1) 610 81 00, fax (+3851) 610 86 44, hotel@hotel-international.hr, www.hotelinternational.hr. 207 rooms (140 singles €130, 56 doubles €143, 8 triples €196, 1 suite €219, 1 Junior Suites €150, 1 Presidential Suite €469). POTHAR 6UFLGKDW hhhh

ARCOTEL ALLEGRA QD-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 469 60 00, fax (+385-1) 469 60 96, allegra@arcotelhotels.com, www.arcotelhotels.com/en. 151 rooms (38 singles €170, 103 doubles €185, 4 suites €335, 4 Junior Suites €260, 2 Rooms for disabled €170). PJHA R6UIFLEGBKDSwW hhhh

BEST WESTERN PREMIER HOTEL ASTORIA QC-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria.hr.

100 rooms (36 singles €97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €110 - 125, 18 Twin €110 - 125, 12 Executive €132 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). PTHAR 6ULGKW hhhh DOUBLE TREE BY HILTON ZAGREB QJ-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 269a, tel. (+385-1) 600 19 00, fax (+385-1) 600 19 16, www.zagreb.doubletree. com. 152 rooms (26 Guest Rooms Twin €109 - 209, 90 Guest Rooms King €109 - 209, 2 Disabled Guest Rooms King €109 - 209, 28 Deluxe Rooms King €135 - 235, 6 Corner Suites €209 - 309). PHAR6UFL GDCwW hhhh

www.inyourpocket.com 58 Zagreb In Your Pocket

I QH-5, Remetinečka cesta 106, tel. (+385-1) 614 12 22, fax (+385-1) 654 21 15, reception@hotel-i.hr, www. hotel-i.hr. 214 rooms (75 singles €62 - 78, 100 doubles €88 - 108, 35 triples €111 - 132, 4 suites €122 - 144).

PTHA6ULEGBKW hhh JADRAN QD-2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 555 85 00, fax (+385-1) 461 21 51, jadran@hup-zagreb.hr, www.hotel-jadran. com.hr. 49 rooms (44 singles €74, 44 doubles €86, 5 triples €98). PJAR6ULGKW hhh LAGUNA QA-4, Kranjčevićeva 29, tel. (+385-1) 304 70 00, fax (+385-1) 304 70 77, info@hotel-laguna.hr, www.hotellaguna.hr. 166 rooms (62 singles €50 - 70, 83 doubles €60 - 80, 15 triples €70 - 90, 6 suites €90 - 120). Pi JHAR6UIFGBKDXW hhh

UPMARKET

ARISTOS QJ-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www. hotel-aristos.hr. 150 rooms (5 singles €90 - 160, 141 doubles €99 - 170, 3 suites €200 - 250, 1 Presidential Suite €375 - 470). PiHAR6UFLGB KDXSwW hhhh

CENTRAL QD/C-4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 04, info@hotel-central.hr, www.hotelcentral.hr. 76 rooms (34 singles €65 - 75, 33 doubles €85 - 90, 5 triples €115-120, 4 apartments €140). Pi OTJHAR6LGW hhh

HOMESTAYS MID-RANGE BEST WESTERN HOTEL STELLA QNadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella.hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. 44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suite €141, 24 Extra bed €20). PAULGW hhh

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

B Outside seating

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EVISTAS QD-3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95 54/(+385) 091 533 70 96, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@evistas.hr, www.evistas.hr. 21 rooms (6 singles €35 - 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 - 105).

PALGK INZAGREB QH-5, Remetinečka 13, tel. (+385-) 091 652 32 01, info@ inzagreb.com, www.inzagreb.com. PTAFB CR6UZ GW

HOSTELS CITY DESIGN HOSTEL QZagrebačka avenija 104, tel. (+385-1) 640 44 44, fax (+385-1) 640 77 52, info@novagalerija.com, www. novagalerija.com. 90 dorm beds, 16€ per person.

PALGW RAVNICE YOUTH HOSTEL QK/L-2, I Ravnice 38d, tel. (+385-1) 233 23 25, fax (+3851) 234 56 07, ravnice-youth-hostel@zg.t-com.hr, www. ravnice-youth-hostel.hr. 36 dorm beds, 112 - 125kn per person. RILNGXW facebook.com/zagreb

BEST WESTERN PREMIER Hotel Astoria Petrinjska 71, Zagreb, Hrvatska/Croatia Phone +385 1 4808 900 Fax +385 1 4808 908 e-mail: sales@hotelastoria.hr www.bestwestern.com www.hotelastoria.hr FREE PARKING AVAILABLE

FREE PARKING AVAILABLE

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Directory

Directory BUSINESS CONNECTIONS AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE QK-3, Radnička 47, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77/(+385-1) 483 67 78, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76, info@amcham.hr, www. amcham.hr. Open 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. CROATIAN CHAMBER OF ECONOMY Freephone info:0800-1852QB-3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@ hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. FINA - THE FINANCE AGENCY Call centre tel. 0800 0080QI-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, info@fina.hr, www.fina.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. MINISTRY OF ECONOMY, LABOUR AND ENTREPRENEURSHIP QI-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11, info@mingorp.hr, www.mingorp.hr. Open 08:30 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

LAWYERS HRVATSKA ODVJETNIČKA KOMORA (CROATIAN BAR ASSOCIATION) Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise in the ser-

60 Zagreb In Your Pocket

vices you need.QB-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616 52 00, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

NOTARIES HRVATSKA JAVNOBILJEŽNIČKA KOMORA Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through.

QD-2, Račkoga 10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

DRY CLEANERS & LAUNDRIES LAVATIO Laundry and ironing.QI-2, Šestinski kraljevac 16, tel. (+385-1) 562 06 03/(+385-) 095 856 00 05, www.lavatio. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

TAX

POST

VAT in Croatia is generally set at 25% and is due on most goods and services. Lower rates of VAT are applicable to goods such as bread and milk, and the tourism sector. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and 8 800kn and 40% for a net income higher than 8 800kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and the employer pays an additional 15.20%. The minimum startup capital for a limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank. Once the company is Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into regular company accounts.

If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps at pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where. Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.

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CENTRAL POST OFFICE QD-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@ posta.hr, www.posta.hr. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

KINDERGARTEN HORIZONS With a warm, safe and colorful atmosphere, teachers that nurture and stimulate your child’s learning and an excellent educational programme with creative workshops, arts and crafts, field trips, sports activities etc.

- we can definitely say Horizons is a children’s heaven.

QI-2, Zelengaj 6, tel. (+385-1) 457 82 05, milena@ kindergarten.hr, www.kindergarten.hr.

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LANGUAGE SCHOOLS Foreign Language Schools are thriving in Zagreb with people both young and old always wanting to learn or improve on their skills. These schools offer numerous language courses and levelled certificates. They also tailor their lessons to client needs.

BERLITZ Internationally recognised throughout the world, Berlitz is the ideal partner to provide training or certification in Croatian or any other language. The Berlitz Zagreb Office offers language lessons and business workshops set up for individuals or companies with verified international methods and standardised programmes.Q C-2, Ilica 44, tel. (+385 1)4812 116, berlitz-zg@berlitz. hr , www.berlitz.hr , Open 08:00-22:00, Sat 08:00-14:00.

Closed Sun.

CROATIAN CHAMBER OF ECONOMY Zagreb Chamber, D-3, Draškovićeva 45, tel. 4606 777, fax 4606 803,hgkzg@hgk.hr, www.zg.hgk.hr. Services: Promotion of business of the City of Zagreb and Zagreb County; Economic relations with foreign countries; Business events and meetings; International integration; Economic development; Information.

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62 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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BRITISH EMBASSY QI-4, Ivana LuÄ?iÄ&#x2021;a 4, tel. (+385-1) 600 91 00, british. embassyzagreb@fco.gov.uk, ukincroatia.fco.gov.uk/en.

Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. HIGH CLASS RELOCATION QTravanjska 4, tel. (+385-1) 557 73 85/091 444 46 36, office@highclass.hr, www.highclass.hr. Open 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. INTERNATIONAL WOMENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CLUB QA-3, Kneza Borne 2 (Hotel Sheraton), tel. (+385-1) 461 16 60, iwc@zg.t-com.hr, www.iwcz.hr.

MOVE ONE RELOCATIONS QG-3, Županjska 10, tel. (+385-1) 369 23 81/(+385-) 091 444 23 71, croatia@moveoneinc.com, www. moveoneinc.com. Open , Mon 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. US EMBASSY QUlica Thomasa Jeffersona 2, tel. (+385-1) 661 22 00, zagreb.usembassy.gov. Open 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. ZAGREB EXPAT MEETUP Qwww.meetup.com/Zagrebmeetup/.

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Croatian diaspora, to pursue dreams of a medical career while connecting to her heritage. Irish arriving in Zagreb can call into Sheridanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Irish Pub, Savska 36, where theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be put in touch with people who can help them settle more readily in the area, and oďŹ&#x20AC;er advice on paperwork

TkalÄ?iÄ&#x2021;eva C-1 TomaĹĄiÄ&#x2021;eva E-2 TomiÄ&#x2021;eva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante StarÄ?eviÄ&#x2021;a C-4 Trg bana Josipa JelaÄ?iÄ&#x2021;a C-2 Trg Biskupa Josipa Langa D-1 Trg braÄ&#x2021;e Hrvatskog Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg Ĺžrtava faĹĄizma D-3 Trg kralja Petra KreĹĄimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg MarĹĄala Tita B-3 Trg Nikole Ĺ ubiÄ&#x2021;a Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra PreradoviÄ&#x2021;a C-2 Trg Petra PetretiÄ&#x2021;a E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 TuĹĄkanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 VarĹĄavska B-2 VinkoviÄ&#x2021;eva C-1 Visoka B-1 VitezoviÄ&#x2021;eva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 VlaĹĄka D-2 VoÄ&#x2021;arska cesta E-1 VoÄ&#x2021;arsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 VojnoviÄ&#x2021;eva E-2 VonÄ?ininova D-1 VramÄ?eva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 VukotinoviÄ&#x2021;eva B-3 Weberova C-1 ZamenhoďŹ&#x20AC;ova A-1

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Traveling allows one to step into a whole new lifestyle, if only for a moment. But what is it that makes some visitors take the plunge and make the stay a permanent one?

We asked a few transplanted residents to tell us their Zagreb storyâ&#x20AC;Ś. Having ďŹ rst come to Croatia as a high school student ten years ago, Kazuhiro Tamari, age 26, is a truly global citizen with family connections leading him to a host of countries. His careers in acting and tourism open endless doors to keep traveling, meeting people and inspiring anyone he meets and yet Kazuhiro describes Zagreb as the lighthouse he follows to come home.Spomenka â&#x20AC;&#x153;Samiâ&#x20AC;? MatiÄ&#x2021;, age 29, also grew up in an international family and spent the entirety of her adult life as an enthusiastic traveler. When her UK student visa expired, she chose to make a cross-continental road trip before settling down in Zagreb to explore her Croatian nationality by living in the country for the ďŹ rst time. Now, as the manager of Nokturno restaurant and hostel, she delights in remaining a part of the international community through the guests with whom she spends her days and by getting in a little travel herself whenever possible. Fellow travel enthusiast Jelena PocediÄ&#x2021;, age 25, grew up in Windsor, Canada hearing proud tales of Croatiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s capital.

Returning to her fatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s home city four years ago has allowed her to create her own stories of discovering hidden beauty in the pedestrian-friendly city she now calls home.

Zagrebâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Medical Studies in English program has allowed Jelena, and many like her whose parents number in the

Paromlinska C-4 PataÄ?iÄ&#x2021;kina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Ĺ ubiÄ&#x2021;a E-3 PavlinoviÄ&#x2021;eva A-2 PerkovÄ?eva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 PosiloviÄ&#x2021;eva E-1 PraĹĄka C-2 PreobraĹžanska C-2 PreradoviÄ&#x2021;eva C-3 Pr. Gjure DeĹželiÄ&#x2021;a A-2 Primorska A-2 RadiÄ&#x2021;eva C-1 RadniÄ?ka cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 RadniÄ?ki dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 RubetiÄ&#x2021;eva D-1 RuÄ&#x2018;era BoĹĄkoviÄ&#x2021;a D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Ĺ alata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Ĺ irolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 SmiÄ?iklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 StanÄ?iÄ&#x2021;eva E-3 StarÄ?eviÄ&#x2021;ev trg C-4 StreljaÄ?ka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo ĹĄetaliĹĄte B-2 SvaÄ?iÄ&#x2021;ev trg C-3 Ĺ vearova E-3 BrezovaÄ?koga B-1

ZAGREB EXPAT INFORMATION

C-1 D-3 E-2 E-3 A-4 D-3 A-3 E-3 C-2 C-4 D-2 B-1 E-2 E-3 B-1 E-2 C-3 C-2 C-2 B-1 D-2 B-3 B-2 C-3 B-1 B-3 B-3 B-2 B/C-4 C-1 E-1 C-4 B-1 C-1 D-3 C-2 D-1 C-1 C-1 D-3 A-2 D-1

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Kotarska Kralja DrĹžislava Kralja Zvonimira Kraljice Jelene KranjÄ?eviÄ&#x2021;eva KriĹžaniÄ&#x2021;eva KrĹĄnjavoga KrutiÄ&#x2021;eva Krvavi most KumiÄ?iÄ&#x2021;eva KurelÄ?eva KuĹĄeviÄ&#x2021;eva Laginjina LepuĹĄiÄ&#x2021;eva Lisinskog LopaĹĄiÄ&#x2021;eva Ljudevita Gaja Margaretska MariÄ&#x2021;ev prolaz MarkoviÄ&#x2021;ev trg MartiÄ&#x2021;eva MaruliÄ&#x2021;ev trg Masarykova MatiÄ?ina MatoĹĄeva MaĹžuraniÄ&#x2021;ev trg MeduliÄ&#x2021;eva MesniÄ?ka MihanoviÄ&#x2021;eva MiklouĹĄeva MikuliÄ&#x2021;eva Miramarska MletaÄ?ka Mlinarske stube MrazoviÄ&#x2021;eva Nikole Tesle Novakova OpatiÄ?ka Opatovina PalmotiÄ&#x2021;eva PantovÄ?ak Park Ribnjak

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B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4 GunduliÄ&#x2021;eva B-3 HabdeliÄ&#x2021;eva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana KovaÄ?iÄ&#x2021;a B-1 Ivana KukuljeviÄ&#x2021;a A-2 IvekoviÄ&#x2021;eve stube D-1 JagiÄ&#x2021;eva A-3 Janka DraĹĄkoviÄ&#x2021;a D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 JukiÄ&#x2021;eva A-3 JuriĹĄiÄ&#x2021;eva C-2 Jurja Ĺ˝erjaviÄ&#x2021;a B-3 JurkoviÄ&#x2021;eva E-1 KaÄ?iÄ&#x2021;eva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 KatanÄ?iÄ&#x2021;eva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 KlaiÄ&#x2021;eva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Ljudevita Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza ViĹĄeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 KoturaĹĄka A-4 KovaÄ?iÄ&#x2021;a Ante C-3 KozarÄ?eva A-1

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Street register

64 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Zagreb.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/zagreb

Spring 2014

65