Zurich In Your Pocket by In Your Pocket

Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Zurich February – March 2019

How locals survive winter Melted cheese, thermal baths and ice skating FREE COPY inyourpocket.com N°51

beachwear for every body. www.ta-bou.com

Uraniastrasse 31 next to Jelmoli-Parking

Contents

Zurich Arriving & Getting Around

City Basics

History

Culture & Events 11 Concerts, shows and exhibitions

Restaurants

Cafés

Nightlife

Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more Chocolate, coffee and conversation Bars, pubs and clubs

Sightseeing

Yay! Sledging is great fun, especially here at Flumserberg. Find this and other day trip destinations for sledging and other winter fun on p. 53. PD

Churches, murals and museums

Gifts from Zurich 34 Locally produced spirits, bags, shoes and more

Shopping

Fancy fashion and Swiss design

Watches & Jewellery

Leisure

Zurich Nord

Zurich for kids

Laser tag, escape rooms and zoos Restaurants and bars in the north of the city Major fun for minor citizens

Winter joys

52 Fondue trams, ice skating and snow covered mountains

Queer Zurich

Hotels

Maps & Index A fondue dinner in a tram - city tour included - certainly makes your winter stay in Zurich special. Read more about this and other winter activities like ice sakting and thermal baths on p. 52. PD Advertisement

58-60 61 62

City map Index Public transport map Advertisement

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February – March 2019 3

Foreword While most people often prefer sunshine and open-air bars to snow, we think that Zurich can be at its most charming when the mercury approaches the freezing mark. Ice skating rinks pop up in the city including a scenic option in the forest on Zürichberg – an excellent winter getaway (see p. 52). The journey there with the Dolder cogwheel train is nearly as exciting as the destination and offers great views of the lake and the snowy Alps. If, however, the journey seems like too much trouble then an open-air swim in the rooftop pool of Zurich’s own thermal baths (p. 52) might pique your interest. The water is warm and the vistas of the city are spectacular. Winter is also the best time to taste some fondue or raclette, Switzerland’s melted cheese specialities. Locals prefer to eat them during the chilly season and that’s also when the options become exponential. Try these delicious traditional treats on the special fondue tram or ship (p. 52), at a random pop-up location or at a restaurant (p.16) that specialises in serving the gooey comfort food year-round. Many mountain resorts are also only two hours away, so Zurich is the perfect starting point for a day in the snow. Go for an Alpine hike, a horse-drawn carriage ride or some proper skiing or snowboarding in the mountains (p. 53). The perfect Zurich winter holiday can be found in the following pages, so start exploring and enjoy your stay! Lukas Füglister has lived in Zurich for 15 years now. As editor and general manager of Zurich In Your Pocket he made sharing his profound knowledge of the city his profession in 2010. He loves dining out, craft beer and tennis and never tires of exploring Zurich. lukas.fueglister@inyourpocket.com

Europe’s largest publisher of locally produced city guides

COVER STORY This issue’s cover features a view of Zurich’s wintry old town with the spire of the Predigerkirche church in the foreground, St. Peter’s on the right and the towers of Grossmünster on the left. © Zurich Tourism

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher pocket publishing GmbH, Wuhrstrasse 15, 8003 Zürich tel. (+41) 32 510 85 76, zurich@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.ch Member of Zürich Tourism / Spirit Club Yearly print run: 180 000 (6 x 30 000) ISSN 1663-9944 © pocket publishing GmbH 2019 Editor & General Manager Lukas Füglister, Copy editor Mārtiņš Zaprauskis, Layout & Maps Tomáš Haman Photos For photographers see photos Cover © Zurich Tourism Sales manager Susi Haefeli, susi.haefeli@inyourpocket.com, (+41) 32 511 28 68, Ad rates at www.inyourpocket.ch, next issue’s closing date: March 8, 2019 Editor’s note & Copyright notice The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We assume no responsibiltiy for changes and errors. Content copyright pocket publishing GmbH. Photos copyright photographers. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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Arriving & Getting Around ARRIVING BY PLANE Zurich International Airport (ZRH) lies 13 kilometres north of the city centre and handles around 700 flights a day going to over 170 destinations worldwide. You can find ATMs and switzerlandinfo desks just after you pass customs. There you can find free copies of Zurich In Your Pocket. There’s a big shopping area with most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00 (groceries from 06:00 - 23:00) and free Wi-fi for the first 120 minutes. Connect your device to ’ZurichAirport’.

The best way to travel across Switzerland! affordable – fast – comfortable

from

5.–

Zurich’s fabulous old town ensconced in a winter coat. Zurich Tourism

swiss-express.ch

Getting to town: The easiest and fastest way to get to and from the airport is by train. Catch a train at the underground train station near terminals 1 and 2 - if the sign on the platform reads Zürich HB (HB = Hauptbahnhof = main station), it’s the right train. Up to 10 trains leave an hour and the journey takes roughly 10 minutes. Tickets can be bought at the counters or at the less busy ticket machines (switch ARRIVING BY BUS SE_190116_SWISSEXPRESS_Inserat_60x90_Ca.indd 1 International and domestic buses as 16.01.2019 well as 13:44:10 them to English on the first screen) next to the stairs leading down to the platforms. A ticket for an adult is 6.80Sfr and sightseeing coaches arrive and depart from valid for one hour in the whole city (3 zones). If you plan to Zurich Bus Station (Sihlquai, F‑10), a two-minute do more travelling by public transport, make it a 24-hour walk north of the main train station. Domestic ticket for just twice the price or consider buying a Zürich inter-city buses in Switzerland (by Eurobus) only began Card (see p. 30). A taxi ride to central Zurich costs around operating this summer. See www.swiss-express.ch and p. 6. 60Sfr. Official taxi stands are just outside Arrivals 1 and 2. Tram N°10 takes you from the airport via Oerlikon to Zurich main station as well. The journey takes 37 minutes and the same tickets that are valid for the trains can be used.

ARRIVING BY TRAIN Zurich’s main train station, referred to by locals as HB (short for Hauptbahnhof, say haa-bay), is right in the centre of the city. All international and domestic trains depart and arrive here. From the platforms just follow the herd towards the main hall, where you’ll find the main exit towards the city centre, the ticket offices and Tourist Information (see p. 9). Trams, buses and taxis are just outside the station. At the ticket office in the main hall (as well as on the many ticket machines) you can buy train tickets, tickets for public transport in Zurich and also change money. For timetables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch, call tel. (+41) 900 300 300 (1.19Sfr/ min) or download the ‘SBB Mobile’ app to your smartphone. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

TAXI SMARTS Taxis in Zurich are in general clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. It‘s usually easy to get one, even at rush hour. The city sets the following maximum prices for taxis: initial fee 8Sfr, 5Sfr per kilometre, 80Sfr per hour. The actual fees have to be displayed on a sticker on the door of the car. In reality only two prices exist: the maximum fee and the lower one many companies charge (incl. the two listed below): initial fee (Basis on the sticker) 6Sfr, 3.80Sfr per kilometre (Distanz), 69Sfr per hour (Wartezeit). When taking a taxi from a stand, check the prices on their door. Yes, you are free to take any taxi at a stand. Cheating is rare. The ridesharing service Uber also operates in Zurich. TAXI 444Qtel. (+41) 44 444 44 44, www.taxi444.ch. TAXI 7x7Qtel. (+41) 44 777 77 77, www.7x7.ch. February – March 2019 5

Arriving & Getting Around DOMESTIC INTERCITY BUSES For the first time in history, domestic intercity buses finally began operating in Switzerland in the summer of 2018. Previously, Switzerland did not license domestic intercity buses to protect its extensive train network. Now Swiss-Express operates three domestic lines: two from east to west (St. Gallen - Zurich - Geneva and Zurich - Bern - Montreux) and one from north to south (Basel - Zurich - Lucerne - Lugano). There are usually at least two connections each day and each route has around eight stops. Standard tickets are half the price of a train ticket for the same route and sometimes even cheaper offers are available. The Swiss half price public transport card is valid on these buses. Travel times are longer than by train, but they are a good option if you want to save some cash and time isn’t a factor, especially for routes such as Zurich to Bern, Geneva, Basel, Lucerne or St. Gallen. Check connections and book tickets on its website. SWISS-EXPRESS, www.swiss-express.ch, tel (+41) 848 44 14 34

ARRIVING BY CAR The Swiss highways A1, A2, A3 and A4 lead from all directions to Zurich. But parking in the city centre is scarce and very expensive. For overnight parking you can try to find a spot in the so-called blue zone in residential areas parking there is free from 19:00 - 08:00 (use a parking disk). Driving in Switzerland is generally easy. If you’re using the motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr. Remember that trams always have the right of way, as well as pedestrians on zebra crossings without traffic lights. Headlights must be turned on at all times. The legal blood alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%. The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas, 80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways. In residential zones, it is often 30km/h. Fines are high and Switzerland makes sure you pay the fine even if you have a foreign number plate. You may use your home driving licence.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT City transport Zurich’s public transport network includes trams, buses, local trains and even ships on the lake and the river. The ticket system is fairly simple: the regional network is divided into zones. You don’t buy tickets for a trip, but rather for a zone. The network of the city of Zurich is zone number 110 (Uetliberg and airport are not included, see map p. 62). Tickets are valid in the chosen zones on all kinds of transportation. A 24-hour pass for the city will cost you 8.80Sfr, a single ticket valid for one hour 4.40Sfr. 6 - 16 year-olds pay the so-called half-fare (which is actually 3.10Sfr). Tickets can be bought at 6 Zurich In Your Pocket

the ticket machines at nearly every stop. You can also buy tickets on your smartphone via the ZVV Tickets app. It now has an integrated check-in ticket option that automatically charges you the best price for your ride. If you’re caught without a valid ticket you’ll be fined 90Sfr. Another option is the Zürich Card (27Sfr/24hrs, 53Sfr/72hrs), which is valid for zone 110 as well as between the airport and the city and it also gives you free admission to many museums. See p. 30 for more information. Public transport in Zurich runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30. There are night buses all night from Friday to Saturday and from Saturday to Sunday to all parts of the city. They require a 5Sfr supplement to any valid ticket. Send a text message from your mobile with the word ’NZ’ to 988 to purchase the supplement by phone. Trains The train network is best for getting around Switzerland quickly and in comfort. For timetables visit www.sbb.ch. Tickets are sold at vending machines and at the counters in the main hall of Zurich’s main train station. Buy tickets with your smartphone using the SBB Mobile app, which even indicates which connections have supersaver tickets (see box below).

BICYCLES & E-SCOOTERS Hundreds of free-floating and stationary rental bikes and electric scooters are available throughout Zurich. You simply download the respective app, register your credit card and then you’ll be able to see where the closest bike is located. Find and unlock it with your phone and hop on! LIME, green, three gears, quite comfortable to ride. 1Sfr per half hour. Electric scooters available too.Qwww.li.me. ZÜRI VELO - PUBLIBIKE, high-quality bikes, pick-up and return only at stations. 3Sfr for the first 30 minutes, then 0.05Sfr per minute. E-bikes available.Qwww.publibike.ch.

SUPERSAVER TICKETS FOR TRAINS If you know when and where you want to go beforehand, you can save up to 70% on your train journey with so-called Supersaver Tickets. The easiest way to get these tickets is to install the ‘SBB Mobile’ app on your smartphone (available in English). Check the connections for your route on your travel day with the timetable function. If Supersaver Tickets are available, a % sign is displayed on the left. Click on the connection, then on the button “Tickets from CHF xxx” at the bottom. On the next screen you’ll see the Supersaver Ticket price for this connection. Select and purchase the Supersaver Ticket. You’ll need to set up an account (credit card and an email address needed). Supersaver Tickets are only valid on the chosen connection (standard tickets are valid on any connection on one calendar day) and are not available at ticket counters or ticket machines. zurich.inyourpocket.com

City Basics BASIC DATA Area Switzerland: 41285 km² Zurich (Canton): 1729 km² Zurich (City): 92 km²

OFFICIAL INTERNET SHOP WWW.PARTIMEWATCH.COM

Population Switzerland: 8 million Zurich (city): 405,000 Official languages Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh Zurich: German Local time Central European (GMT+1h)

SWISS MADE

CUSTOMS Switzerland is not a member of the European customs union. On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to buy real tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling from and to Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight restrictions on the goods you can take free of customs duty from Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the following customs and tax allowances apply (for other countries check with the appropriate customs authorities):

TO SEE THIS CUP YOU NEED TO MAKE IT TO THE WORLD CUP FINAL – OR TO ZURICH.

No matter the weather, Bahnhoftsrasse is always busy with trams and shoppers. Zurich Tourism

Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20) cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 (50) g of smoking tobacco. Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer.

Goods over these limits must be declared when entering an EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply. In Switzerland there is duty-free shopping for arriving passengers at airports. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

™

Other goods: Max value of all goods: 430 euros for air travellers and 300 euros for other travellers.

WWW.FIFAMUSEUM.COM Seestrasse 27, 8002 Zurich February – March 2019 7

ZIYP_60x90_en_Version Q1_2018_v03_hgs.indd 1

08.01.2018 16:08:16

City Basics HEALTH & EMERGENCY

USEFUL ZURICH APPS Our own app, In Your Pocket City Essentials, features only our favourite places in Zurich (and many other cities). Just as useful is the map with directions, which is also available offline. It’s available for free on both iOS and Android. To download, simply go to iyp.me/app on your smartphone or scan the QR code on the front cover of this guide. The free ZVV-Timetable app provides real time door-to-door timetable information for all public transport within the canton of Zurich in English. It also tells you where the nearest stop is. With the free ZVV-Tickets app you can also buy tickets on the fly. It now even offers a check-in function, automatically charging you the best price for your ride when you finish travelling.

DRINKING The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer and 18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer are the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale brewers are increasingly getting competition from local brewers. Check out Sprint, Paul, Chopfab or Appenzeller for instance. Swiss wines are also not to be underestimated. While the best come from further south, you’ll find some good Blauburgunders and Riesling Sylvaners from the Zurich region.

Emergency telephone number (operators usually speak basic English): Ambulance: 144 Police: 117 Fire brigade: 118 If you need medical attention, there are several walk-in medical centres, like Permanence at the main train station (facing Bahnhofstrasse), where you just pull a ticket and wait your turn ((+41) 44 215 44 44, Bahnhofplatz 15, open 07:00 - 22:00 or mediX (+41) 44 298 50 50, Badenerstrasse 41, open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00). Zurich also has three public hospitals with walk-in emergency units which are open 24 hours a day for urgent matters. EMERGENCY UNIT UNIVERSITÄTSSPITAL QH‑11, Rämistrasse 100, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. (+41) 44 255 11 11. Open 24 hrs. EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL TRIEMLI QBirmensdorferstrasse 497, 8Triemli, tel. (+41) 44 466 11 11. Open 24 hrs. EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL WAID QC‑4, Tièchestrasse 99, 8Bucheggplatz, tel. (+41) 44 366 20 55. Open 24 hrs. Pharmacies To find out where the next pharmacy (Apotheke in German) on duty is, call (+41) 900 55 35 55 (1.50 Sfr/min). The pharmacy at Bellevue is always open 24hrs (G-14, Theaterstrasse 14, (+41) 44 266 62 22).

LANGUAGE Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%). Zurich lies in the German speaking part of the country, where people speak a German dialect, so-called Swiss German or Schwyzerdütsch. Be it among friends, at work or when dealing with the authorities, people speak dialect. However, Swiss people use standard German, so-called Hochdeutsch, when writing and speaking at school.

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS A magical walk along the lake’s snow-covered promenade.

Zurich Tourism

ELECTRICITY Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets can take Europlugs with two pins. If you are coming from the US or the UK (as well as from many other countries) you need an adaptor. Travellers from countries with a a different voltage additionally need a voltage converter. 8 Zurich In Your Pocket

January 1 January 2 April 8, 2019 April 19, 2019 April 22, 2019 May 1 May 30, 2019 June 10, 2019 August 1 September 9, 2019 December 25

New Year Berchtold Day (local) Sechseläuten (Zurich only) Good Friday Easter Monday Labour Day (Zurich only) Ascension Whit Monday National Holiday Knabenschiessen (Zurich only) Christmas zurich.inyourpocket.com

City Basics LANGUAGE SMARTS

TOURIST INFORMATION

Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The ‘r‘ in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is pronounced like in the Scottish loch. Mind your throat.

The Tourist Information run by Zurich Tourism is located in the main hall of the main train station. This is a one-stop solution for all the information you might be missing. For personal advice at the counter, take a ticket and wait your turn. They also offer the following services. They... • will book city tours and excursions • sell tickets for public transport, incl. the Swiss Travel Pass • sell the Zürich Card (see p. 30 for more infos) • can make hotel reservations • sell tickets for events and museums and souvenirs Last but not least you can always pick up the latest copy of Zurich In Your Pocket here - for free, of course. QG-11, Main hall of the main train station. Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

Hello (formal)

Grüezi

(groo-e-tsi)

Goodbye (formal)

Adieu

(as in French)

Thank you

Merci

(mersi)

Sorry!

Entschuldigung!

(ent-shooldi-goong)

Excuse me!

Exgüsi!

(ex-gewsi)

Switzerland

D’Schwyz

(t’shviiits)

Cheers!

Zum Wohl!

(tsoom vol)

Zurich

Züri

(tsoori)

MAIL Post: Swiss post is generally reliable and also can take care of all your financial transactions. The Sihlpost is the post office with the longest opening hours (see below). SIHLPOST Zurich‘s central post office, open until late. Take a ticket and wait your turn. QE‑11, Kasernenstrasse 97, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 848 888 888. Open 06:30 22:30, Sat 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:30.

MONEY & TIPPING The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the Swiss franc (Sfr), which is divided in 100 rappen. There are banknotes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1000 francs. The coins in use are 1, 2 and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and 50 rappen.You can change your money at any bank. Or just withdraw Swiss francs with from one of the ubiquitous ATMs. Credit cards are widely accepted. Service is always included. At a restaurant however, if you were happy with the service, leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip.

POLITICS Switzerland is not a member oft the European Union. The Swiss like to consider their country the home of direct democracy and citizens here are regularly asked to take a stand on national issues. The two chambers of parliament

are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting system and the seven-member government appointed by parliament always includes representatives of all of the four or five major parties. Switzerland is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, once sovereign states which retain some independence and have their own constitutions, parliaments and governments. Bern is the capital.

RELIGION The Swiss are traditionally either Roman Catholic (42%) or Protestant (35%). The largest (and quite new) minority religious community are Muslims (4%).

SAFETY Zurich is a safe city and there is no no-go area, even for single travellers. As always, beware of pickpockets.

SMOKING The legal age fo smoking is 16. Smoking in public buildings and transport is illegal. However, restaurants and bars are allowed to have a separate smoking room (fumoir).

PASSIONATE

DISCIPLINED HUMBLE

AMBITIOUS

LIFE SKILLS FOR PROFESSIONALS PROFESSIONAL SKILLS FOR LIFE Choose from 5 Hotel Management Schools with a variety of specialisations

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CREATIVE

Ms Vlora Rexhepi Regional Manager Tel: +41 (0) 76 318 93 53 Email: vrexhepi@swisseducation.com

February – March 2019 9

History XVI Century Huldrych Zwingli, priest at the Grossmünster, was a major critic of mercenary service. But he had a lot more to say and became the initiator of the Reformation in Zurich from 1520 on. The Reformation meant an end to all frivolous behaviour - drinking, prostitution and actually most fun was forbidden or strictly regulated.

NAPOLEON CAUSES A BOTHER XVI - XVIII Century During the 16th and 17th Centuries Zurich’s wealth and influence increased. Among the intellectuals of the time were the educational reformer Heinrich Pestalozzi or the painter Johann Heinrich Füssli, whose work you’ll find today in the Kunsthaus. In 1798 Zurich lost its independence as Napoleon took over, transforming the Swiss Confederacy into the Helvetic Republic for a brief five years. Zurich’s somewhat grim reformator Huldrych Zwingli.

ZIYP

ROMANS AND SCHWYZERDÜÜTSCH

RAILWAYS AND A STRIKE

100BC - X Century Around 15 BC the Romans established a military base at the site of today’s Lindenhof where you can find a copy of the Roman tomb stone mentioning Turicum, the word from which Zurich derives. Roman rule ended around 400 AD and nobody really has any idea what went on in Zurich for the next few centuries. One change was the arrival of the Germanic tribe of the Allemanni, who brought with them the language that was to become today’s Swiss German (Schwyzerdüütsch).

XIX - XX Century Modern-day Switzerland was founded in 1848 as a federation. The year before, the first railway line in Switzerland was opened. Railways were the business Alfred Escher was in. He dominated Zurich and Swiss politics for the next few decades. His statue can be found just in front of the main train station. Switzerland remained neutral during the First World War and was refuge to the artists who started the Dada movement in Zurich. The war exacerbated the poverty of the working classes and in 1918 a socialist committee called a general strike. Many of the committee’s demands were later fulfilled, though not the demand for the right of women to vote, which was not introduced until 1971!

ZURICH IN WOMEN’S HANDS

THE RÉDUIT AND THE WAR

XII - XIV Century In the 13th Century Zurich became an imperial city, answering only to the emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. Zurich was now headed by a woman the abbess of the Fraumünster abbey. In 1336 an uprising of Zurich’s craftsmen made the newly founded guilds the foundation of Zurich’s political structure. Many of the guild houses, still in use today, are now also restaurants like the Zunfthaus Zur Schmiden or the Zunfthaus am Neumarkt (emblem of the guild of the shoemakers on the left).

XX Century During most of the Second World War Switzerland, formally neutral, was totally surrounded by the Axis powers, making it difficult to import food and other goods. General Guisan prepared for a military attack by literally hollowing out the Alps, envisaging a guerrilla war from the mountains, the socalled réduit strategy.

ZURICH GOES SWISS… AND PROTESTANT XIV - XVI Century In 1351 Zurich joined ’Switzerland’, which had existed as a treaty since 1291. This however didn’t stop the city waging war against fellow cantons, such as against Schwyz. Soon the city ruled over lands around Lake Zurich and north all the way to the river Rhine. 10 Zurich In Your Pocket

ZURICH TODAY XX - XXI Century After the war Switzerland’s economy boomed and mass immigration from Southern Europe set in, while culturally and politically Switzerland remained very conservative. In 1968 and 1980 youth movements clashed with police, but also brought new cultural life to Zurich. Today Zurich is still a major financial centre and has lost the conservative reputation. It has become popular as a place to live for highlyskilled workers from across Europe. This has made the lack of affordable apartments one of the major topics in Zurich today. zurich.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events Zurich offers a rich bouquet of culture, with its opera and ballet of (at least) European renown and a packed programme of excellent concerts. Pop and rock stars almost always stop in Zurich when touring the continent and Zurich also has a vibrant theatre scene, but unfortunately very few productions in English.

26.03 19:30 » ZURICH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA

Conductor and recorder: Maurice Steger. Works by Georg Friedrich Händel, Henry Purcell, Godfrey Finger, William Babell, Charles Avison and Francesco Saverio Geminiani. QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40 - 105Sfr, www.zko.ch.

Events are listed in the following categories: classical concerts, exhibitions, musicals and rock & pop concerts. Within the sections it’s ordered by date.

EXHIBITIONS

Of course there are many more events than we can list, so we recommend www.zueritipp.ch for more information.

Three-dimensional typefaces are omnipresent: from festive decorations, shop displays and art installations to typefaces on buildings in public spaces. Such typefaces are especially popular because of their haptic presence as they counterbalance the letters scuttling across shimmering screens. The exhibition focuses on 3D lettering on buildings, which take into account architectural features and their surroundings, thus affording buildings a fitting identity. Using innovative national and international examples from the past 20 years, the exhibition explores the function and design of 3D typefaces.QA‑7, Museum für Gestaltung - Toni-Areal, Pfingstweidstrasse 96, 8Toni-Areal, www.museum-gestaltung.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00, closed Mon. Admission 12/8Sfr.

CLASSICAL CONCERTS 06.02, 07.02 19:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA - THE IMPRESARIO

Conductor: Jan Willem de Vriend; flute: Matvey Demin; bassoon: Michael von Schönermark. The Impresario by W. A. Mozart and other works by W. A. Mozart and A. Vivaldi.QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 35 - 120Sfr., www.tonhallemaag.ch.

07.12 - 14.04 » 3D LETTERING ON BUILDINGS

13.12 - 31.03 » NEXT STOP NIRVANA – APPROACHES TO BUDDHISM

Looking good: the Zurich Chamber Orchestra.

Sandro Diener

12.03 19:30 » ZURICH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA

Music director: Daniel Hope; conductor: Willi Zimmermann. Works by Antonio Vivaldi, Alan Fletcher, W. A. Mozart and George Gershwin. QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40 - 105Sfr, www.zko.ch.

13.03 & 14.03 19:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA

Conductor: Robert Trevino; drums: Martin Grubinger. Works by Kalevi Aho and Richard Strauss.QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40 - 135Sfr., www.tonhallemaag.ch.

21.03 19:30 » FILARMÓNICA JOVEN DE COLOMBIA

Conductor: Andrés Orozco-Estrada; harp: Xavier de Maistre. Works by Jimmy López, Alberto Ginastera et al.QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 30 - 85Sfr, www.tonhallemaag.ch. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Who was the Buddha? What did he teach? What rituals do Buddhists perform in everyday life? These are just some of the questions that this exhibition addresses. It showcases 2,500 years of Buddhist art and culture with artworks from China, Japan, the Himalayas and Southeast Asia. These works cover the beginnings of Buddhism in India and its spread across the world, including Switzerland. Select experts and practising Buddhists introduce viewers to key concepts of Buddhism and explain terms such as nirvana, karma and compassion. A short ABC of Buddhism as well as playful interventions allow visitors to immerse themselves in the fascinating and intricate universe of this religion. QD‑16, Museum Rietberg, Gablerstrasse 15, 8Museum Rietberg, tel. (+41) 44 206 31 31, www.rietberg.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

OPERA & BALLET The Zurich Opera is a magnificent building near the lake shore built in 1891 by Austrian architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. Check out the programme on their website. You can also buy tickets on the opera’s webpage, by phone or at the ticket office on site. Plays are usually with German and English subtitles. The shows of the Zurich Ballet Company directed by Christian Spuck take place here too.QF‑5, Opernhaus, Falkenstrasse 1, 8Opernhaus/Stadelhofen, tel. (+41) 44 268 66 66, www.opernhaus.ch. February – March 2019 11

Culture & Events CINEMAS Zurich has more than a dozen cinemas, many of them with more than one screen and the large ones with up to 12 screens. Traditionally films in Switzerland are shown in their original language with German and French subtitles. But the big multiplex cinemas that have displaced some of the smaller ones in the last two decades have started to show more and more movies dubbed in German. In smaller cinemas you can still watch all movies in the original language – lots of them in English of course. They are marked with the letters Edf in the programmes (English with German (Deutsch) and French subtitles) - a D (capital) indicates the movie is screened in German. CORSO A four-screen multiplex showing blockbusters at Bellevue.QH‑14, Theaterstrasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 900 55 67 89, www.kitag.ch. RIFFRAFF RiffRaff is a lovely arthouse cinema with four screens just off Langstrasse.QD‑9, Neugasse 57, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44 444 22 00, www.riffraff.ch.

16.11 - 23.06 » SEBASTIÃO SALGADO – GENESIS

Glaciers, densely populated by seals, endless Saharan dunes or mist-covered mountains in the Amazon rainforest: Sebastião Salgado depicts the Earth as a creation of overwhelming beauty and thus sharpens our awareness of its preciousness. On over 30 journeys to all corners of the world, the French-Brazilian has created a photographic essay that simultaneously documents the majesty and the vulnerability of our environment. Salgado has sailed across oceans, scaled mountains and crossed deserts in his endeavor to capture environments and cultures. This exhibition is a dramatic manifesto that not only touches visitors with its opulent black-and-white photographs, but also raises open questions about how we deal with the planet.QE‑9, Museum für Gestaltung Zürich (Museum of Design), Ausstellungsstrasse 60, 8Museum für Gestaltung, tel. (+41) 43 446 67 38, www.museum-gestaltung.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

14.12 - 10.03 » OSKAR KOKOSCHKA. A RETROSPECTIVE.

Oskar Kokoschka (1886 – 1980) is regarded as one of the most important artists of the 20th century. His enduring legacy for artistic production from the post-war period to the present day is beyond dispute and yet enigmatic: on a continent riven by two world wars, in which realistic art had become discredited, Kokoschka was someone who unashamedly argued for the recognition of figurative art. Throughout his life he believed in the inclusive power of 12 Zurich In Your Pocket

One of Sebastião Salgado’s opulent photos.

creative expression far removed from state propaganda, and this is reflected in all his oeuvre. Comprising some 200 exhibits, the show is designed as a retrospective and covers every stage of Kokoschka’s artistic career and the full range of his techniques, from oil painting, drawing and watercolour to printmaking.QH‑13, Kunsthaus, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

21.02 - 22.04 » FROM THE BIBLE TO BANKNOTES - PRINTING SINCE 1519

Printing has a long history in Switzerland. One of the oldest companies in the industry is Orell Füssli. The firm was established 500 years ago by Christoph Froschauer, who made his name by printing the Bible. In the 21st century, the Zurich-based company engages in a range of publishing activities printing everything from nonfiction books and passports to banknotes. The exhibition gives an overview of the company and takes a detailed look at the firm’s technological innovations presenting bestsellers from five centuries.QF‑10, National Museum (Landesmuseum), Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 58 466 65 11, www.nationalmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

MUSICALS 12.02 - 24.02 » CATS

Andrew Lloyd Weber’s record-breaking musical is back - in English! On just one special night of the year, all Jellicle cats meet at the Jellicle Ball where Old Deuteronomy, their wise and benevolent leader, makes the Jellicle choice and announces which of them will go up to The Heaviside Layer and be reborn into a whole new Jellicle life.QH‑1, Theater 11, Thurgauerstrasse 7, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, 48 138Sfr, www.musical.ch.

ROCK & POP CONCERTS 16.02 19:30 » BOOKER T. JONES

The Stax soul legend Booker T. James made an impressive comeback with his most recent album, Sound The Alarm. Cool as ever, he celebrates blues and soul on his zurich.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events Hammond B3 with vintage 1960s sounds as well as present day tunes. A concert not to missed.QF‑13, Kaufleuten, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 225 33 22, 60 - 85Sfr, www.allblues.ch.

24.02 19:00 » THE DEAD BROTHERS

The Dead Brothers play so-called ‘death blues’ which draws from a variety of influences including folk music, psychotic punk, bluegrass, which becomes blackgrass, rock’n’roll and world music. Why all the death? Because ‘without death, life would make no sense.’ Word.QB‑7, Moods, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 276 80 00, www.moods.club.

24.02 20:00 » JONATHAN JEREMIA

Jonathan Jeremiah’s haunting baritone voice sounds like an echo from days long gone, yet it somehow also feels contemporary. His latest record Good Day deals with the small, special moments in everyday life. His songwriting has real depth and his warm voice and melodies will gain a powerful hold on you.QF‑13, Kaufleuten, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 225 33 22, 50Sfr, www.allblues.ch.

Sebastião Salgado

27.02 19:30 » OZZY OSBOURNE

Museum für Gestaltung Zürich Ausstellungsstrasse

Ozzy is on his farewell tour paying tribute to five decades of rock ’n’ roll. And that says it all. Supporting act: hard rock legends Judas Priest.QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, 96 118Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch.

03.03 19:30 » PHILIPP FANKHAUSER

Drop by to celebrate the 33rd stage anniversary of Swiss blues star Philipp Fankhauser. Believe us when we say that this is about as groovy as blues can get.Q54Sfr, www.moods.club.

04.03 20:00 » FLORENCE + THE MACHINE

Florence Welch and her band return to the big stage! The British artist is a fascinating singer and she’s on tour with her fourth album High As Hope, which is as intimate as it is epic. It’s a raw and enchanting affair. Florence herself describes it as ‘a pure expression of who I am now’. QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/ Hallenstadion, 75 - 85Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch.

Genesis

16.11.2018 – 23.6.2019

powerful gospel music and passionate soul. They’re on tour with their latest album Chapter II.QF‑13, Kaufleuten, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 225 33 22, 60 - 85Sfr, www.allblues.ch.

30.03 19:30 » THE BOSSHOSS

These colourful chaps from Berlin call their music ‘trash country punk rock.’ They began by covering pop hits in a country style and eventually evolved into the band that’s now touring. Their latest record is Black Is Beautiful and you can expect a lively show.QSamsung Hall, Hoffnigstrasse 1, Dübendorf, 8Stettbach, tel. (+41) 43 501 02 02, 75 87Sfr, www.samsunghall.ch.

07.03 20:00 » SLASH

Slash gained world renown as the lead guitarist of Guns N’ Roses in the 1990s. But he’s also been a successful solo artist for many years now. Hardly anyone can move their fingers over the strings of a guitar as quickly as the man with the curly black hair and trademark top hat.QSamsung Hall, Hoffnigstrasse 1, Dübendorf, 8Stettbach, tel. (+41) 43 501 02 02, 77 - 87Sfr, www.samsunghall.ch.

14.03 20:00 » VINTAGE TROUBLE

This one of the most exciting, old-school rhythm and blues bands of our time. They offer everything you could wish for including hearty blues, uncompromising rock, facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Florence Welch of Florence + The Machine.

Vincent Haycock

February – March 2019 13

Restaurants

At Ornellaia, the interior design is modern and sleek and the food outstanding (see p. 15). | PD

Zurich has around 2,000 restaurants, bars and takeaways. No wonder you can find almost any kind of food imaginable: from down-to-earth Swiss to traditional Vietnamese, from Lebanese to Japanese and back again. But today many restaurants also cook in a mélange, international style and are not easily categorized. Nevertheless we have tried. We list the places we recommend within any particular category. For lunch, lots of restaurants offer special deals, usually considerably cheaper. Note that many restaurants close their kitchens between roughly 14:00 and 17:30 and in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. For the evening we recommend you book a table. For more suggestions see www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

SYMBOL & PRICE KEY A Credit cards accepted

X Smoker lounge

J City centre location

N No credit cards

8 Nearest tram station

C‑1 Map coordinates

€ €€ €€€ €€€€

most mains under 25Sfr most mains 25-40Sfr most mains 40-55Sfr most mains over 55Sfr

14 Zurich In Your Pocket

ASIAN BAN SONG THAI The Ban Song Thai sits in a small alley in the Niederdorf just under the Grossmünster church - and serves classic Thai food made from mostly organic ingredients and without any artificial flavour enhancers. Probably that‘s why the taste of the food here is authentic. On the menu there are soups, salads, fish, as well as rice- and Thai-noodle dishes and curries (even without coconut milk!). The Ban Song Thai has lots of fans in Zurich - that‘s why we recommend you book a table in advance. There is also a lunch buffet (all you can eat, 30Sfr).QG‑13, Kirchgasse 6, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 252 33 31, www.bansongthai.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat 17:30 - 23:00, closed Sun, kitchen open until 22:30. €€. ABJ OOO ROOFTOP The Modissa fashion house on Bahnhofstrasse has a restaurant with a terrace on the top floor. One of the city’s busiest gastronomers, Michel Péclard serves Asian fusion cuisine here. The speciality is dumplings with different fillings served on a trolley. We liked the vegetarian ones especially. But whatever you order, leave room for dessert - the cakes are delicious! When Modissa is closed, enter through the separate entrance on Uraniastrasse.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 74, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 400 05 55, www.ooo-zh.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 22:00. €€. ABJ zurich.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants NEW HONGXI We’ll say it straight away: Hongxi serves excellent Chinese food. The dough of the steamed dim sum we had as a starter was thin, yet firm and the slices of pork with Hoisin sauce and chilli were simply heavenly. The sauce was thick, but not too sticky, and salty as well as sweet with just a hint of spiciness. In short, it’s the kind of flavour that makes you want to eat more of it immediately. The steamed lobster tail was tender, the spring onions and the roasted garlic a perfect match for this decadent crustacean. Finally, the mango and grapefruit soup was just the finish we were looking for. Our only complaint would have to be the kitchen’s ventilation system, which doesn’t seem to be up to the task. However, the incredible cuisine made us quickly overlook this small point. Expect to be seated at tables with other guests and remember that a meal at Hongxi can be a rather loud experience.QD-11, Zwinglistrasse 3, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. (+41) 43 549 20 20, www.hongxi-restaurants.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 22:00, closed Mon, Sun. €€. A

NEW ORNELLAIA Ornellaia is a Tuscan winery renowned for its so-called Super Tuscan blends. It teamed up with local gastronomer Bindella and opened this Italian fine dining restaurant with a sleek, modern interior in the centre of Zurich. We visited for lunch and the 3-course meal (75Sfr) completely lived up to our lofty expectations. We started with a parmigiano mousse with egg yolk and black truffle that definitely stimulated our appetite. The roasted guinea fowl breast that followed was extremely tender and the skin pleasantly crisp and salty. We finished off with the tiramisu that was served with some extra chocolate and ice cream. All in all, a magnificent lunch. We also took the unique opportunity to try some Ornellaia wine by the glass and we recommend you do the same.QF‑12, St. Annagasse 2, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 212 00 22, www.ristorante-ornellaia.ch. Open 11:30 - 15:00, 18:30 23:30, closed Sun. €€€€. AJ

BURGERS HELVTI DINER BELLEVUE Helvti Diner’s burger concept is simple, and that’s probably one of the reasons why it’s so successful (this is its third location in town). You can customise your burger in three steps: first you choose the meat (Swiss premium, Angus, chicken or veggie), then your add-ons like bacon, cheese or fried eggs and then you decide on a sauce. Our burger was grilled medium and the meat was perfectly pink inside, just as we ordered it, but next time (and there will be a next time) we might order some guacamole for a little extra flavour. The service was quick and friendly.QH‑14, St. Urbangasse 4, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 43 500 05 35, www.helvti -diner.ch. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00, kitchen open continuously until 23:00, Sun 22:00. €€. AJ

FINE DINING MAISON MANESSE This is extraordinary avant-garde cuisine in a comfortable and easy-going setting, where the homey white wooden panelling sets the mood. The plates created by chef Fabian Spiquel change frequently and feature experimental cuisine and other unusual cooking styles. Sometimes you even have to lend a hand and help finish preparing the dishes. The tartar, for example, came with a recipe and some essences like Katsuobushi whiskey and we even grilled the rosemary, honey and goat cheese marshmallows ourselves on an open flame at the table. Although you can choose items from the à la carte menu, many opt for Spiquel’s Michelin-starred surprise menu (around 150Sfr). The flavours they create here are amazing, but relax, not everything is completely off the wall. A steak is still a steak, but the one we had here was probably the most tender we’ve had in a long time. Recommended!QC‑14, Hopfenstrasse 2, 8Schmiede Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 44 462 01 01, www.maisonmanesse.ch. Open 11:45 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Mon 11:45 - 14:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, closed Sun. €€€€. AB facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Just like the French capital: Café de Paris.

FRENCH NEW BRASSERIE CAFÉ DE PARIS The speciality of this French brasserie is entrêcote with café de Paris sauce, a buttery sauce that, according to legend, was invented by the brasserie of the same name in Geneva in the 1940s. We ordered our meat medium rare - or saignant as the French say - and that’s exactly how it was served. The meat and the sauce arrived on a rechaud, a miniature stove heated by candles. The meat was tender and remarkably flavourful, the sauce heavenly (and yes, a little heavy, but hey, it’s French cuisine after all) and both went well with the pommes alumettes (very thin French fries). When asked, we gladly accepted a second helping of the fries and sauce. Given the restaurant’s emphasis on meat, we naturally chose the tartare as a starter. We were attended to by a charming server who turned out to be the owner himself. Needless to say, the brasserie also has an impressive wine list from Bordeaux which we took advantage of, and so should you.QD‑11, Ankerstrasse 113, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 833 99 66, www.brasserie-cafedeparis.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:00, closed Mon, Sun. €€€. A February – March 2019 15

Restaurants LE RENDEZ-VOUS They really know how to charm you à la française here! The welcome is warm, the service friendly and attentive and the day’s menu is written on a small blackboard and brought to your table. The food is a good match too: the gazpacho we took as starter was refreshing, the ravioli a delight and the mixed fish platter (assiette de la mer) more than lived up to the expectations. The tables here are not set as close as elsewhere. And they have outdoor seating and there is pizza available too. Definitely recommended!QE‑14, Seestrasse 3, 8Tunnelstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 201 24 20, www.restaurant-le-rendez-vous.ch. Open 10:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€. AB

CHEESE RESTAURANTS

istock.com

The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette originally come from the French-speaking areas of Switzerland. Fondue is a mix of melted cheese and white wine bubbling over a small burner which you dip bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted cheese which is poured over boiled potatoes. The listed restaurants below are specialists. CHÄSALP Chäsalp is located in an ancient and recently renovated stable. This gives you a kind of alpine-hut experience, which makes the extra bit of travel up the hill well worth it. There are 17 different kinds of fondue on offer. They have meat too, but remember, this is the Cheese Alp (Chäsalp), not the steak hut. Take tram 5 or 6 (12 minutes from main station) to Kirche Fluntern and then bus 751 will drop you off right in front of the restaurant in only 5 minutes.QTobelhofstrasse 236, 8Tobelhof (Bus 751), tel. (+41) 44 260 75 75, www.chaesalp.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 17:30 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:30, 17:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. AB LE DÉZALEY For decades Le Dézaley has been dedicated to dishes from Vaud in western Switzerland. The fondue prepared according to a family recipe is very tasty and also comes in a version with morel mushrooms. A typical starter is airdried meat - or instead of fondue try one of the regional sausages.QG‑13, Römergasse 7/9, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 61 29, www.le-dezaley.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 23:00. €€. ABJ WALLISER KELLER The Hotel Zürcherhof’s restaurant brings the specialities from the mountainous southern canton of Wallis to town. There are raclette and eight different kinds of fondues on the menu – with extras ranging from pepper and garlic to goat cheese. We like the traditional cellar-style atmosphere with the modern touch here. QG‑12, Zähringerstrasse 21, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 269 44 44, www.swissalpechuchi.ch. Open 11:30 13:30, 17:15 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 17:15 - 23:00. €€. ABJ 16 Zurich In Your Pocket

INTERNATIONAL BLOCKHUS The rustic and solid Blockhus is an institution in the old town. The menu features a weird, but friendly confusion of Spanish, Swiss, Italian and even Thai dishes. One of the specialities of the house is the tartar, served in many variations. We really loved the spicy one with garlic and hot peppers. Locals and tourists are equally present here - usually a fair indicator for a good restaurant.QG‑14, Schifflände 4, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 252 14 53, www.restaurant-blockhus.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€. ABJ NEW SAMIGO AMUSEMENT This is the new residence of Mr. Samigo, the former king of Zurich’s pop-up restaurant scene. After roughly a decade of setting up notoriously clandestine pop-ups, he’s finally settled down for good at this great location right at the lakeside. You can expect some rather extravagant dishes like lobster hot dogs and a selection of oysters as an intermediate course followed by some fried chicken. But while food is important here, flamboyant entertainment (think performances by musicians, burlesque dancers and the like) has always been at least equally as important to Sami and his crew. He announced that he’ll be sticking to this philosophy and his new venue includes an moving floor that turns the space in front of the bar into a stage in no time, so expect the unexpected. Recommended, if you dare. Reservations by text message only: (+41) 79 360 20 65.QF‑16, Mythenquai 59, 8Rentenanstalt, tel. (+41) 79 360 20 65, www.samigo.ch. Open 19:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00 (brunch). Daily shows included. €€€. AB

ITALIAN 4LEONI FIRENZE The spaghetti was firm, the succulent pieces of fried aubergine gave the tomato sauce the desired extra flavour and the ricotta cheese added on top not only pleased the eye, but added some real freshness to to dish. Yes, you could say that we were quite pleased with our meal and the easygoing waiter certainly made us feel like we were dining in Italy. That said, 4Leoni Firenze doesn’t only do zurich.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants great pasta, but also some other specialities from Tuscany like Polpette alla Fiorentina (meatballs) and the famous Bistecca Fiorentina (a T-bone from the grill). The Coccoloni family who owns the restaurant also runs a handful of successful establishments in Tuscany, which could explain its obvious authenticity. Lunch deals including water or a glass of wine and coffee can also be had for around 25Sfr. QD‑9, Luisenstrasse 43, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44 271 00 66, www.4leoni-firenze.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:30. €€. AB CASA FERLIN Franz Ferlin, in charge at the Casa Ferlin today, belongs to the fourth generation of Ferlins at this Italian institution, with its time-honoured, classic interior and red-frocked waiters. What you absolutely have to try here is the fresh homemade pasta, especially the ravioli are delicious. The menu also features beef and veal, as well as a choice of fish. If in doubt, go for the veal filet al limone, another heavenly Ferlin classic.QG‑10, Stampfenbachstrasse 38, 8Stampfenbachplatz, tel. (+41) 44 362 35 09, www.casaferlin.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:30 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€€. AXJ

JAPANESE OOKI Although we have to admit that we haven’t been to Japan recently, the simple style of Ooki is what we imagine a trendy venue in Tokyo would look like, especially the bright wood panelling, the Japanese characters and the assorted knick-knacks. Japanese chef Ooki and his son specialise in ramen and udon noodle soups, kareeraisu (Japanese curry) and donburimono (rice dishes with toppings). We began our culinary journey with some ippinryouri, which are like tapas, and then moved on to gyoza dumplings, which were a real treat. The soups were also perfectly prepared, especially the thick udon noodles, which were remarkable. To finish off the experience we ordered ice cream served in a tasty rice dough. Reservations are essential, but if you can’t get one, try dropping by late and you might just find an empty seat or two.QB‑12, Zentralstrasse 53, 8Schmiede Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 44 461 15 86, www.ooki.tokyo. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 22:00. Closed Mon. €€. AB

Where bold entertainment meets daring cuisine: Samigo Amusement.

ZIYP

YOOJI’S BAHNHOFSTRASSE No matter if you prefer your sushi as a nice dinner at a table, a quick eat at the bar, to take away or from a kaiten (conveyor belt): the six Yooji’s in Zurich all serve good Japanese food. The one on Bahnhofstrasse features two stories and works as a self-service restaurant. Grab your sushi from the display cabinet and take a seat or sit at the bar and pick some more daring compositions from the kaiten.QF‑11, Bahnhofstrasse 102, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 212 12 25, www.yoojis.com. Open 07:00 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00, kitchen closes 22:00. Kaiten starts 11:00. €€. ABSJ

MEDITERRANEAN LES HALLES This garage-style restaurant offers mostly organic food from around the Mediterranean with a particularly French touch. The ever fresh moules et frites (mussels with French fries) are what a lot of people come here for, or the tasty beef tartar. Like in a market hall you place your order at the kitchen corner and it‘s served to your table. It’s always very busy and loud - so come here rather for the outstanding fresh food and the industrial style than for a quiet evening with your significant other. No credit cards.QB‑8, Pfingstweidstrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 273 11 25, www.les-halles.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 13:45/22:00, Sat 18:00 - 22:00, tapas througout. €€. N

Mediterranean bar/restaurant/market hall, located at the heart of the culture and night-life district of Zurich West. Reservations: 044-273 11 25 or www.les-halles.ch facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

February – March 2019 17

Restaurants TURM If you are not good at decisions, you will have a hard time choosing at the Turm: the vast menu almost reads like a zoo and features crocodile, kangaroo, beef, soups, salads, quesadillas and Mediterranean classics. The place is heavily decorated with plants and palms, contrasting with the old guild house it’s located in. Food is good and service fast usually. The Turm is hidden in the upper part of Niederdorf. But it’s well known: just ask for directions.QG‑13, Obere Zäune 19, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 43 268 39 40, www.bei-tony.ch. Open 10:00 - 00:30, closed Sun, nonstop kitchen until 23:30. €€. ABJ

GUILD HOUSES

Zum Grünen Glas

ZUM GRÜNEN GLAS A little bit off the beaten track on the upper edge of Niederdorf, the Zum Grünen Glas offers notable Mediterranean-style cuisine in the noble atmosphere of an old guild house. The classic here is the beef tartar - it’s served either with basil and olives or Asianstyle with wasabi and mango chutney. And yes, it’s very tasty. You will find fish, meat and some typical Zurich dishes like geschnetzeltes on the menu as well. QG‑13, Untere Zäune 15, 8Neumarkt, tel. (+41) 44 251 65 04, www.gruenesglas.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat 17:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 22:00. €€. ABJ ZUNFTHAUS ZUR ZIMMERLEUTEN The Zimmerleuten is one of the best-known guild houses in town. The Küferstube on the ground floor serves solid Swiss fare all day: classics like geschnetzeltes, bratwurst with rösti and some fish options too. And they serve a fondue outdoors on their terrace right on Limmatquai. The restaurant on the first floor is their pride: the atmosphere there is more up-market and the food on offer a touch more sophisticated. Maybe you can even catch a glimpse of the fully wood panelled Zunftsaal, usually just open for banquets.QG‑13, Limmatquai 40, tel. (+41) 44 250 53 63, www.zunfthaus-zimmerleuten.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:30, kitchen closes 22:00. Küferstube open 11:30 - 23:30. €€€. ABJ

18 Zurich In Your Pocket

MIDDLE EASTERN NENI Neni is the restaurant of the posh 25hours hotel and it serves Mediterranean and Middle Eastern specialities. The paneer curry with rice we chose was a touch spicy, but the green onions, the nuts and the plums made it quite refreshing. The paneer was perfectly fried, had some bite and, best of all, wasn’t rubbery, which often happens at other restaurants. In addition to a handful of main courses, Neni also serves mezes (Middle Eastern tapas) like hummus, baba ganoush and more of what they call balagan (Hebrew for chaos). The interior of lamps that look like colourful straw hats and lots of plants is perhaps overly playful, so you’ll probably either love it or hate it. Its sister restaurant can be found in Zurich West at Pfingstweidstrasse 102 (A-7).QD‑10, Langstrasse 150, 8Sihlpost / HB, tel. (+41) 44 576 50 05, www.neni.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 23:00, breakfast 06:30 - 10:30, Sat & Sun 07:30 - 14:00. €€. AB

STEAKS & BARBECUE COCO Our evening at Coco was a real blast, and we’re not just talking about the food. They serve a surprise menu here, so all you have to choose is the main course (usually different cuts of meat or whole fish), which is cooked on the charcoal grill. Our menu consisted of small pieces of tuna served three different ways to start (the breaded and fried morsel was exceptional), followed by a lamb chop that was sheer perfection. But before we made it to the meat, a basket full of fresh raw vegetables like cucumbers and carrots arrived at our table and we happily dipped them in the accompanying sauces. That said, the highlight was the local beef, perfectly grilled and served with creamy Béarnaise. The chocolate cake with vanilla sauce was the so-called icing on the cake. We’d also be remiss if we didn’t mention the extraordinary service and although this incredible experience doesn’t come cheap, we’re sure that we’ll be stopping by again.QF‑13, Bleicherweg 1A, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 98 98, www.restaurant-coco.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 00:30. €€€€. ABJ zurich.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants VEGETARIAN & VEGAN

SMITH AND DE LUMA We’ll be brief. We had a great evening at Smith and De Luma, a joint project by Smith & Smith wine purveyors and De Luma meat producers. The aged beef was outstanding, both the entrecote and the fillet, and not only was the meat tender, but the flavour created by the mould culture they add to the entrecote during the ageing process is simply remarkable. The same can be said for the starters. The goat cheese mousse on a beetroot tartar with some ‘burnt’ apple was an unexpected explosion of flavours, the artichoke soup was well balanced and firm in texture and the mashed potatoes with cabbage and bacon was original and tasty. Naturally, given its owners, the wine recommendation by our friendly waitress, a Chianti from Tuscany, was a real treat. All of this comes at a price, but you won’t regret it.QA‑16, Grubenstrasse 27, 8Laubegg, tel. (+41) 77 411 31 22, www.smithanddeluma.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Mon 11:30 - 14:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€€. A

SWISS As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is (see box Swiss cuisine p.20), we list some traditional restaurants here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette, see the box on p. 16. We list the traditional Zurich beer halls in a separate category on p. 21. They serve generous helpings of earthy local food - definitely not a bad way to explore Swiss cuisine either. HELVETIA On the first floor of the popular Helvetia bar (locals simply call it Helvti) much praised chef Diego von Büren serve refined, polished versions of standard Swiss dishes. The meat loaf for example was simply excellent - it must be some subtle mix of spices that does it. For starters we can recommend the crayfish cocktail. Prices are not budget, but quite appropriate given the quality of the cooking, the white tablecloths and the exacting service.QE‑12, Stauffacherquai 1, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 297 99 99, www.hotel-helvetia.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:30 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, closed Sun, bar 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 02:00, Sat 16:30 - 02:00, Sun closed. €€€. ABJ facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

BEETNUT We went for the ‘By the Incas’ bowl and are happy to report that the mix of quinoa, kale, sweet potatoes, avocado, coriander and more was a taste explosion. As part time vegans we also added some feta cheese, which blended in perfectly. The food at Beetnut is generally completely vegan, but you can order some add-ons like the aforementioned cheese as well as eggs and fish.QLagerstrasse 16b, 8Sihlpost / HB, tel. (+41) 44 281 94 86, www.beetnut.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. €. AB W

A pleasant setting and excellent food at Smith and De Luma.

TIBITS The bounteous vegetarian buffet is the focal point of tibits - where everybody queues up to choose from around 40 home-made salads, hot daily specials, soups, sandwiches and sweets. It’s more than plain tasty, believe us. tibits is very popular for lunch, dinner or coffee with all kinds of people. Sister restaurant ‘tibits im NZZ bistro’ around the corner at Falkenstrasse 12, (+41) 44 260 32 12 (open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). QH‑15, Seefeldstrasse 2, 8Opernhaus, tel. (+41) 44 260 32 22, www.tibits.ch. Open 06:30 - 23:00, Fri 06:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00, food served until 30 min before closing. €. ABSJ

GETTING THE BEST OUT OF FRUIT AND VEGETABLES.

Vegetarian & Vegan Restaurant Bar Take Away Catering Seefeldstr. 2 | Falkenstr. 12 next to the Opera House, Zurich www.tibits.ch | www.tibits.co.uk

February – March 2019 19

Restaurants SWISS CUISINE What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out is heavily influenced by their neighbours’ cuisine, especially the Italians. But what is real Swiss cuisine? Most Swiss would probably say: käsefondue (cheese fondue), a hot soup of cheese and white wine eaten by dunking cubes of bread in it. Delicious, but the smell can take getting used to. Raclette is another cheese speciality, melted cheese on potatoes served with different pickles and sides. Würste or sausages are also very Swiss, the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat (pork) being the most common. Züri gschnätzlets is a traditional Zurich dish, thin strips of veal cooked in a cream sauce, often with mushrooms. This is often served with rösti, a cake of fried grated potatoes, a bit like Spanish tortilla but also on the list of Swiss traditionals. Switzerland also has an impressive range of breads to go with the cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf ) is a favourite for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise and fondue bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popular too. Both involve dipping meat into a pot, full of either hot broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then enjoying with a range of sauces and sides. GAMPER The menu at the small and stylish Gamper usually only features a few dishes as everything here is reduced to the basics. And that’s definitely a good thing. The sweetbread with onion compote was a delight for the taste buds and the same can be said of the egg with gorgonzola, our other starter. The cheese was nearly a foam and tasted heavenly, while the local asparagus main course arrived crisp, just as we like it, and smothered in hollandaise sauce. The rhubarb mixed with a kind of meringue was the perfect finish to a delightful meal and the service was professional and attentive. The young team at Gamper certainly knows how to cook with seasonal, local ingredients and the use of a charcoal grill, which we could smell at our table, was a nice touch. No reservations possible.QC‑10, Nietengasse 1, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 44 221 11 77, www.gamper-restaurant.ch. Open 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. €€. AB HUUSBEIZ We had a splendid evening at Huusbeiz and the cucumber starter had us convinced from the get go. Not only did the gin and cucumber sorbet served on a cold cucumber peel and starflower blossoms look great, it was also a great pairing. For the main course we tried the pork belly plated over a variety of beans and green apples. The pork was crispy, a little sweet and bursting with flavour and we finished our meal with a superb chocolate mousse. We like the nose to tail approach of the kitchen crew and they also 20 Zurich In Your Pocket

work with a variety of different meats, but at Huusbeiz it’s not just the food that’s great. Host Nicolas and the wait staff offered impeccable service and the atmosphere of dark wooden tables and panelled walls is down to earth, just the way we like it.QA‑11, Badernerstrasse 310, 8Zypressenstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 931 77 90, www.huusbeiz.ch. Open 18:00 - 24:00, closed Sun. €€. A MOHRENKOPF This is a pleasant place in plain style for Swiss fare, coffee and snacks or breakfast in the Niederdorf area, frequented by tourists and locals alike. The menu offers classics like chalbsgschnäzlets (veal in bite-size pieces) with rösti (hash browns) as well as more unusual dishes like capuns, an Alpine speciality of sausage and dumpling wrapped in chard leaves. Try them, they’re a treat. If you fancy a sweet to round off the meal, try a mohrenkopf, a chocolate covered marshmallow that gave the restaurant its name. QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse 31, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 262 05 45, www.mohrenkopf.info. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00, kitchen open non-stop until 22:00. €€. ABJ

An impressive high ceiling at Spitz.

SPITZ Spitz is located in the old section of the recently expanded Swiss National Museum. The restaurant with its high ceiling supported by ornamented columns is impressive and the dark green timbers give the room a relaxing touch. The cuisine here is playful, and to be honest, a little experimental. The grilled lettuce with lemongrass vervain sauce we had for a starter was excellent and the lamb from the surrounding Swiss mountains was a real treat. We finished off our dining experience with an inventive blueberry mousse with cashew nuts and a touch of lavender. An impressive wine list that includes some natural wines is also available. In short, Spitz is a good option if you’d like to experiment with local cuisine in an interesting setting.QG‑10, Museumstrasse 2, 8Bahnofquai / HB, tel. (+41) 44 221 94 77, www.restaurantspitz.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Mon 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, closed Sun, bistro open daily from 10:00 (closed Mon), bar open 17:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. €€€. ABJ zurich.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants BEER HALLS

BRASSERIE FEDERAL This is a beer lover’s paradise: More than 100 different Swiss beers are sold in this huge hall situated inside the main train station. You can try seven at one blow: for 14Sfr the waiter will serve you seven beers from the tap in small glasses (1dl). Food is Swiss-style, hearty and served fast: pasta with minced meat, bratwurst or rösti with bacon and raclette cheese. QF‑11, Bahnhofplatz 15, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 217 15 15, www.brasserie-federal.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, kitchen open until 22:30. €. AJ

WIRTSCHAFT IM FRANZ If a long menu makes you nervous, Wirtschaft im Franz might just be the alternative you’ve been looking for as only a handful of dishes is available here for each course. And there are nearly as many imaginative vegetarian options as there are meat and fish dishes. The food is seasonal and of local origin. Some offerings can even be described as daring, yet the quality is consistently extraordinary. Recommended. QB‑12, Bremgartnerstrasse 18, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 43 558 44 22, www.wirtschaftimfranz.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€. AB

WEISSER WIND This rustic tavern serves typical hearty Zurich fare like cordon bleu, geschnetzeltes, hörnli maccaroni with minced meat and the like - all in very solid quality. Beware of the devil’s noodles (teufelsnudeln) with beef cubes - they really are spicy, a challenge even for experienced chilli fans. Service is friendly and the beers come quickly - definitely not a bad place for experiencing some local cuisine and charm.QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 20, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 18 45, www.weisserwind.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 23:00, closed Sun. €€. J

The interior is simple, but the cuisine is beyond your standard kebab: Gül.

ZEUGHAUSKELLER The Zeughauskeller (the arsenal) is situated in a mediaeval arsenal right on Bahnhofstrasse and serves good solid traditional Swiss fare: generous helpings of meat, sausages, schnitzel and roast. Popular with tourists, locals and lads out for the night, it’s a place where it’s easy to get to know people, as you share the big tables with other guests. Old military devices standing around are there to remind you where you are. So don’t get too drunk, or you might end up getting conscripted.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 28a, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 220 15 15, www.zeughauskeller.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:00, kitchen open non-stop until 22:00. €. ABJ

Offers hearty traditional Swiss cuisine at affordable prices. Centrally located on Bahnhofstrasse at Paradeplatz.

TURKISH NEW GÜL Hidden away in a courtyard, Gül offers contemporary Turkish cuisine that’s far beyond standard kebabs. The lentil soup we had as a starter was slightly hot and had a perfectly firm texture, which we enjoyed. The same can be said of the pide (Turkish pizza) topped with cheese, mushrooms, fresh herbs and an egg baked in a wood-fired oven. There are also Turkish dumplings and sharing plates such as the Iskender chicken and fried vegetables on offer. The locale with its greyish wooden stools and tables is simple and plain and the service was genuinely friendly. We’ll definitely stop by again.QD‑10, Tellstrasse 22, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. (+41) 44 431 90 90, www.guel.ch. Open 11:30 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. €€. AB facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

open daily for reservations

11.30 – 23.00 +41 (0) 44 220 15 15 www.zeughauskeller.ch February – March 2019 21

Cafés Cafés in Zurich generally serve coffee Italian style (from ristretto to cappuccino) and many draw on the rich Swiss tradition of pastry and chocolate making. But there is no fixed definition of a café, most also serve alcoholic beverages, other snacks or even full meals and many double as bars in the evening rather than closing. BABU’S BAKERY You might have to queue to get one of this coffeehouse’s lovely sweets or excellent fresh sandwiches, but never mind, it’s worth every second of your time. Armchairs which remind us of our grandmothers’, wooden shelves filled with pottery and a fireplace make for a very cosy interior. And because you can not stay there forever, you can buy your favourite blend of coffee or tea, so you can enjoy some of Babu’s joys at home.QE‑12, Löwenstrasse 1, 8Sihlporte, tel. (+41) 44 212 87 45, www.babus.ch. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. ABJ CAFÉ DU BONHEUR This French-style establishment is where the cool and slightly alternative crowd of District 4 loves to hang out, and so do we. Wooden tables, a concrete wall and industrial lamps set the tone and the coffee we had was solid. The croissant stuffed with scrambled eggs and bacon energised us for the rest of our Saturday, the service was friendly and getting all of the little extras we asked for wasn’t a problem. Bonheur also has a pleasant outdoor seating area on Bullingerplatz next to the fountain and serves lunch and dinner with a French twist. A good alternative to the city centre’s hipster cafés.QB‑10, Zypressenstrasse 115, 8Güterbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 558 99 00, www.cafedubonheur.ch. Open 08:00 - 23:30, Sat 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AB

BREAKFAST Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss breakfasts, a rich white bread baked in the shape of a braid, which is served with butter, jam, honey, cheeses or cold meats. Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety of breads - rye bread, corn bread or potato-and-walnut bread to name just a few - which add to the breakfast spread. Buttery croissants, called gipfeli, are also a favourite. Another breakfast dish with strong roots in Switzerland is müesli, made of oat flakes, grated apple, ground hazelnuts and yogurt in the birchermüesli version. Here are some of our favourite breakfast places: KAFI DIHEI, Breakfast served daily until 16:00 (Tue closed). From Swiss style with a variety of breads and jam to a hearty hangover breakfast (see overleaf ). BABU’S BAKERY, Delicious breakfast daily until 11:30 with Swiss rösti (hash browns), scrambled eggs and much more. There is an all-day brunch on weekends (see overleaf ). 22 Zurich In Your Pocket

Looks comfy, doesn’t it? Kafi Dihei in Wiedikon.

GRAN CAFÉ MOTTA The Gran Café Motta oozes Italian elegance - bright parquet floors, a long metallic bar - tastefully combined with playful, modernist elements. The coffee is strong and tasty, especially the Indonesian blend. The ceiling height of more than 4.5 metres gives the place the grandezza of a Gran Café. Italian paninis and appetizers - and probably the best outdoor seating for watching the world go by on Limmatquai. Service tends to be a little slow.QG‑12, Limmatquai 66, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 252 31 19. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 23:30, Sat 07:30 - 23:30, Sun 07:30 - 22:00, kitchen open until 22:00. ABJ KAFI DIHEI A little off the tourist trail, this is one of our favourite places for breakfast and coffee breaks. With a mix of old furniture and wallpaper covered in flower bouquets, Dihei (At Home) has a touch of your grandmother’s living room. It serves breakfast every day until 16:00 including the Swissstyle meal with different types of bread, butter and jam, or the more hearty option with scrambled eggs, bacon and sausages, a good choice if you’re still dealing with the consequences of last night’s pub crawl. You can also get burgers, schnitzel, chèvre chaud (warm goat cheese) and the like for lunch and dinner. We love the quality of the food and the dedication of the staff here. You can’t make a reservation on the weekend, but queuing up will usually get you a place to sit within a few minutes.QA‑12, Zurlindenstrasse 231, 8Lochergut, tel. (+41) 44 557 43 48, www.kafidihei.ch. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00, closed Tue. AB SPRÜNGLI CAFÉ Sprüngli has been around for 170 years and for locals it’s synonymous with excellent confectionery and chocolate. Their café is the place to stop for a coffee when shopping on Bahnhofstrasse. Try to get a window seat on the first floor overlooking Paradeplatz, order a coffee and choose something sweet from the display cabinet. Try their famed luxemburgerli, small macaroons with a light and airy cream filling in different flavours or some of their many varieties of chocolates.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 21, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 224 46 16, www.spruengli.ch. Open 07:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:30 - 18:00, Sun 09:30 - 17:30. ABJ zurich.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Zurich’s nightlife offers classy clubs, casual and alternative bars, as well as live-music venues and strip clubs. On the weekend people from almost half of Switzerland come to the city to have a good time. The main nightlife areas are Niederdorf in the old town (G-11/13), the streets around Langstrasse (C/D-10/11) and Zurich West (B/C7/8). There is a lively club scene - but with dozens of bars around, bar-hopping can be just as much fun. A night out in Zurich can be great, but quite expensive. Most venues take credit cards, but if you’re heading for bars and clubs have some cash handy. Check out our listings. For more recommendations check www.zurich.inyourpocket.com

Almost art: neon lights behind the bar at Sacchi.

CASUAL BARS ATELIER BAR A daring mix of an artist’s workshop and a fireplace room of a lordly castle, the atelier is a rather laid-back sort of a citycentre bar. The theme is furniture making, and accordingly every wooden chair is different. Head for a seat on the gallery and let the waiter bring you a cocktail, one of the many wines sold by the glass or maybe some cheese and dry meat specialities on a plate or in a sandwich.QF‑13, Talacker 16, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 210 08 09, www.atelierbar.ch. Open 07:45 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, closed Sun. AJ SACCHI With more and more bars and restaurants springing up all the time, the area around Lochergut (B-11) has been transformed into an extension of the legendary Langtsrasse nightlife district. A small Italian-style bar, Sacchi specialises in different varieties of the Negroni cocktail (gin, vermouth rosso and Campari) and natural wines, but of course beer and other classic bar drinks are also available. Owner Claudio Sacchi shoots these cocktails with a beverage pistol into your glass himself, as they are in fact premixed. In short, Zurich’s cool nightlife crowd claimed this place right away as its own and not just because of the stylish Italian interior.QB‑11, Bertastrasse 1, 8Lochergut, www.sacchi.bar. Open 17:00 - 24:00, closed Mon, Thu 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. A facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

SYMBOL KEY A Credit cards accepted

N No credit cards

E Concerts

K Restaurant

J City centre location X Separate smoker’s lounge

CRAFT BEER BARS ELDORADO This eldorado is one for beer experts. At this cool joint they have 101 different beers on offer, many of them craft beers from small breweries from Switzerland and around the world. There are many specialities, for example from Belgium, some of which seem more in the champagne league to us. If you want to drink your way through the whole beer list, you can become an El Dorado. But you might need more than one evening. Ask the barmen for your personal card. Occasional concerts.QE‑9, Limmatstrasse 109, 8Limmatplaz, tel. (+41) 43 540 90 31, www.eldorado-zh.ch. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 17:00 - 01:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 20:00 - 02:00, closed Sun. AE THE INTERNATIONAL This bar is dedicated to craft beers from small breweries. They have a great choice of around 50 different ones from all around Switzerland on offer, and another 50 from around the world. Around 10 are on tap. The huge board on the wall behind the bar lists them grouped by types, like India pale ales, stouts, amber etc. to help you choose. Or tell the barkeeper what taste you like and he will be happy to help. Despite the many Swiss beers, lots of expats are regulars here. While the bar looked a touch too sterile when they opened, it now has the feel of a proper beer joint. You love craft beers? You will like it here.QD‑9, Luisenstrasse 7, 8Röntgenstrasse, www.theinternational.ch. Open 16:00 - 24:00. A

CASINO SWISS CASINOS ZÜRICH More than 350 slot machines and the table games roulette, black jack, punto banco and texas hold’em poker on two floors make this casino the largest in Switzerland. The stakes on the table games set in at 2 Sfr – with practically no upper limit. For your physical well-being there are two bars and a lounge. The casino also has a smoker’s section. To get access you need to be at least 18 years old, well dressed and have a valid ID card or passport with you. The entrance fee is 10 CHF after 19:00.QE‑12, Gessnerallee 3-5, 8Stauffacher / Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 330 30 30, www.swisscasinos.ch. Open 11:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00, table games start at 14:00. February – March 2019 23

Nightlife ADULT ENTERTAINMENT If you’re male and looking for the so-called ‘sins of the flesh,’ then Zurich has a lot to offer. Prostitution is legal in Switzerland, so you can find everything from strip bars and erotic massages to sex clubs and escort services in Zurich. While hardly an alpine Amsterdam, Zurich is an inviting destination if you’re looking for carnal pleasures and sexy ladies in various states of undress. Prostitution is not only legal but is also regulated by the city. Sex clubs need permission to operate and this is only granted if a business follows all of the security, health, social security and tax regulations, doesn’t place any undue pressure on the sex workers, ensures their health and guarantees violence prevention. For all these reasons, sex clubs are probably the best and safest option if you’re looking for sex in Zurich. Street prostitution is also regulated, but is only permitted in a few areas (i.e. Häringstrasse in the Niederdorf district) and only at certain times. For obvious reasons, street prostitution is harder to control than sex clubs and it’s much more likely that the workers you’ll encounter have been coerced into working as prostitutes or, even worse, are victims of human trafficking. Here are some reputable strip bars and massage parlours. Check our website www.zurich .inyourpocket.com for more listings and sex clubs.

Escort services also seem to be popular, just search the internet. We believe the places we list to be upstanding businesses, but we still recommend employing simple common sense when delving into the world of adult entertainment. If in doubt, use cash and not your credit card. RED LIPS STRIP CLUB | CABARET | NIGHT CLUB Red Lips is a classic strip bar in the Langstrasse nightlife district. A fully stocked bar is of course at your disposal as well as a stage where a variety of dancers perform striptease shows around a central pole. You can sit on bar stools at high tables, on leather sofas or in booths, if you’re looking for more privacy. From Thu - Sat a DJ adds a little extra energy to the scene. Private dances are also available.QD‑11, Hohlstrasse 47, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 241 59 87, www.redlips.ch. Open 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00, closed Sun. A SECRET TANTRA Sensual massages with an erotic touch and tantric love rituals. Check its website for details or call for an appointment at the secret tantra tantra lounge in Volketswil, close to Zurich.QVolketswil, tel. (+41) 77 267 72 02, www.secret-tantra.ch.

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EROTIC PAR EXCELLENCE Visit one of the best strip clubs in Switzerland and get charmed by our beautiful artists and hostesses. www.redlips.ch | Hohlstrasse 47 in Zürich | info@redlips.ch 24 Zurich In Your Pocket

zurich.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife CLASSY BARS NEW BAR 45 Grand arched windows, marble-lined walls and black leather benches - the stylish interior of the all-new Bar 45 right on Bahnhofstrasse lives up to the location’s salubrious reputation. That said, the vibe here is surprisingly easy-going and the bar offers plenty of space for standing customers, so it’s also a good place for an apero. Drinks and food on offer have a decidedly Spanish theme including the many cavas (Iberian sparkling wines) and sherries on offer. Naturally, these ingredients are also used in many of the cocktails, such as the refreshing Basil Breeze, which relies heavily on Manzanilla sherry from Andalusia. Bar 45 serves platos, small plates with polpette and the like, as well as portions of traditional Iberico ham. The number of platos you’ve had is simply marked with chalk on the bar, so you can pay when you leave.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 45, 8Rennweg, www.bar45.ch. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 20:00. AJ WIDDER BAR After a complete overhaul, the Widder bar not only has a more contemporary look but also a new cocktail concept called Follow The Flavour. We chose to follow chilli and got an amazing mix of Callle 23 tequila, lime juice and chilli syrup, which was hot and salty and definitely spiced up our evening. Widder, however, is still a classy establishment and has one of the biggest spirits libraries in the city, specialising in single malt whiskeys. It features hundreds of different brands starting with Bushmills 1608 Triple distilled and ending at the other end of the scale with the rare Black Bowmore Final Edition 1964 (4cl for 1,200Sfr). A piano player will entertain you while you relax on the red leather benches and enjoy a superb cocktail and courteous service.QF‑12, Widdergasse 6, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 224 24 12, www.widderhotel.ch. Open 11:30 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 02:00. AJE

COCKTAIL BARS NEW BAR AM WASSER Hell yeah! We truly loved the Hellboy cocktail we had here, which was dominated by smokey whiskey, not to mention a touch of honey for some sweetness and chilli for a fiery finish. Lovely! This venue is a remarkable recent addition to Zurich’s cocktail scene and not just because of its great mixed drinks, but also due to its extravagant décor that includes cocktail shakers from around the world glued to a wall, plush sofas and a huge chandelier-like lamp. You will be seated as only table service is available, but that’s just fine with us as the attentive staff welcomed us with a bittersweet welcome drink and later sent us off with a sip of sherry.QG‑14, Statdhausquai 1, 8Bürkliplatz, www.baramwasser.ch. Open 15:00 - 24:00, closed Sun. AJ facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Bar am Wasser - anything but water to drink.

DANTE Dante’s chequered tiled floor, the black bar and the back wall covered with brass make for a cool yet quite low-key atmosphere. The crowd is young and a little alternative though still on the trendy side. Remarkable at Dante is the gin library: more than 80 different brands are on offer, as well as many gin cocktails. Try a Basil Bash, a little sweet, a little sour, and yes, a little basil. Unexpectedly fresh and tasty.QD‑11, Zwinglistrasse 22, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 43 317 19 18, www.dante-zurich.ch. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Thu 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00, closed Mon, Sun. AX

DANCE BARS SCHICKERIA This bar unashamedly claims in-crowds, hipsters and the like in its name. The tongue-in-cheek slogan is “expensive cocktails, bad wines & boring djs”. As beer they serve Estrella Inedit in wine glasses (7Sfr per 2dl), a premium beer that comes in champagne-style bottles. The interior is more trashy than chic, but maybe that’s what real schickeria is about: a trashy look but plenty of cash in your pockets, or at least acting like it. We like the easy going atmosphere and are happy to throw in a few bucks every now and then, especially on the weekends when a really bad DJ plays those hits from days gone by.QD‑10, Neufrankengasse 4, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 79 598 48 17, www.schickeria.ch. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Thu 17:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00, closed Mon, Sun. A

ALTERNATIVE BARS EL LOKAL This admirably weird place in the city centre is home to a slightly alternative crowd. A big skeleton overlooks the bar, and the walls from the gallery down to the ground floor are decorated with huge maps which have been painted over with portraits. In summer hundreds of people sit outside on the waterside of the Sihl River enjoying food from the barbecue. There is usually football and often concerts (with admission).QE‑12, Gessnerallee 11, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 43 344 87 50, www.ellokal.ch. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 14:00 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. ABEK February – March 2019 25

Nightlife LIVE MUSIC VENUES

CLUBS

Zurich offers all kinds of live music: jazz, pop, rock, metal, indie, gothic and much more. You will find bands playing somewhere every night of the week. The clubs and bars listed here focus on live music - we tell you what you can usually expect. Some are just open if there is a concert. For their daily programme, check the websites - or find all concerts on www.zueritipp.ch.

BELLEVUE This is another club that mainly plays house and techno. But, we have to say, we like this one. The lines of coloured lights on the walls give Bellevue something of a retro disco touch, while the music is often house in all its variations - all very danceable. But Bellevue also offers some nights with popular hits and party tunes. You’ll find the entrance at the rear of the building on Freieckstrasse. QH‑14, Rämistrasse 6, tel. (+41) 44 251 33 40, www.club-bellevue.ch. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - late. AJ

BOGEN F Often concerts, Swiss and international bands on a tight stage. Check website for programme.QC‑8, Viaduktstrasse 97, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 43 204 18 90, www.bogenf.ch. Occasionally open as a cafe on Sat from 13:00. EXIL National and foreign bands from indie rock through folk to electro, often hip hop and urban music, live on stage almost every night of the week. After-parties until late.QB‑8, Hardstrasse 245, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 43 366 86 84, www.exil.cl. X STALL 6 Once a stable for horses, nowadays Stall 6 is a watering hole for an alternative rather young clientele, who come for afterwork beers and nights out. The comfy sofas and armchairs are definitely an easy-going setting for a chat with some friends - or do you fancy a game of table football? On Fridays and Saturdays there is usually more action: bands and DJs hit the stage, usually at around 22:00, and don’t stop until the early morning.QE‑12, Gessneralle 8, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 44 225 81 54, www.stall6.ch. Open 17:00 - late, closed Mon, Sun. Admission for concerts and parties.

WINE BARS WEINSCHENKE (HOTEL HIRSCHEN) This delicately lit historic vaulted cellar has a great atmosphere for a wine tavern. The Weinschenke is located in the building of the hotel Hirschen and is entered from the small street (Hirschengasse) on the right-hand side of the hotel. Sit at the wooden tables and enjoy a glass of one of the 12 bottled wines that are sold here by the glass. As appetizers we can recommend mostbröckli, local dried meat or a choice of Swiss cheese. In summer you can take your wineglass up to the rooftop terrace (there is a lift) where you are beautifully surrounded by old town houses a real hidden gem.QG‑12, Hirschengasse 6, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 43 268 33 33, www.hirschen-zuerich.ch. Open 16:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. AJ 26 Zurich In Your Pocket

DIE ZUKUNFT ‘The Future’ is a small club in a Langstrasse district basement, and is Zurich’s premier space for freaky electro, house and crossover party styles. The entrance is hidden in a passage between two buildings next to the Bar 3000. Getting past the doormen is sometimes difficult, though the policy is not obvious: you just have to fit to the crowd already inside. QD‑11, Dienerstrasse 33, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 535 60 13, www.zukunft.cl. Open Thu 23:00 - late, Fri, Sat 24:00 - late. Admission around 20Sfr, Thu free. AX

Kaufleuten: it’s gettin’ hot in here!

HELSINKI The Helsinki is a great little alternative bar and club next to Hardbrücke train station. Situated in a former garage, lots of Swiss and sometimes foreign bands hit the stage. The admission fee is usually low and if no one is playing live, there is a notable jukebox in a minimalistic and trashy atmosphere. QB‑8, Geroldstrasse 35, 8Escher-Wyss Platz, www.helsinkiklub.ch. Thu 20:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 20:00 -04:00, Sun 20:00 - 02:00, other days check programme. E KAUFLEUTEN The Kaufleuten club is an institution in Zurich’s nightlife: the rich, the beautiful and wannabes like us queue up almost every weekday to party, mostly to electronic music and disco-house sounds. Dress to impress is the motto, and for some people here looking the part seems to be very important. Nevertheless, it’s a good place for a classy night out.QF‑13, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 225 33 22, www.kaufleuten.com. Open usually Tue, Fri & Sat 23:00 - 04:00/05:00, other days check programme. Admission around 25Sfr. AXEJ zurich.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

The winter mist creates a magical atmosphere in Zurich’s old town. | Zurich Tourism

Zurich’s largely intact medieval town on the one hand and its natural setting on the other are the city’s charms. It also has an excellent range of museums and galleries showing international art. Admission to many places is free, if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by reduced price, usually the children’s price, e.g. 10/5Sfr. Museums are usually closed on Mondays.

MAIN SIGHTS If you ask someone from Zurich which of the city’s sights represents Zurich best, they’ll probably point to the Grossmünster, its unmistakable double towers making it the closest Zurich has to a landmark. Wasserkirche and Fraumünster complete the trinity of famous churches. Lindenhof is where Zurich started off and is a lovely spot today, while the central police station is another unlikely lovely spot - unless maybe you’re escorted there. Its entrance hall is splendidly decorated with work by Augusto Giacometti. But two of Zurich’s major attractions are not man-made at all: the lake and the Uetliberg peak. FRAUMÜNSTER Today most people come to Fraumünster to see the magnificent stained glass windows in the choir created by French artist Marc Chagall in the early 1970s, or the windows by Augusto Giacometti. But in days gone by this Gothic abbey dating from the 9th century was more than just pretty. Fraumünster, which literally means women’s abbey, belonged to the Benedictine convent whose abbess had wide powers in Zurich. Women came on harder times facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

in the 16th century. The little archway on the outer corner of Fraumünster (Poststrasse/Münsterhof ) was used to limit decadence and elaborate clothing, and women’s wide hoop skirts had to fit through here, or else a fine was due. Since summer 2016 the crypt is open to visitors. Be considerate, no photos, no visiting during Sunday services.QG‑13, Stadthausquai 19, 8Helmhaus, www.fraumuenster.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Nov - Feb 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 5Sfr, incl. audioguide (available in 8 languages) or brochure and admission to crypt museum. Children free. Groups must book time slots in advance. GROSSMÜNSTER The two towers of the originally Romanesque Grossmünster are Zurich’s landmark and they also offer a great view over Zurich, if you make it up the 187 narrow steps (5/2Sfr admission for the tower, open 10:00 - 16:30, Sun 12:30 - 16:30. According to legend, Felix and Regula, Zurich’s patron saints, were beheaded at the site of the Wasserkirche and then walked up to where the Grossmünster stands, taking their heads with them. Centuries later the emperor Charlemagne was passing through Zurich and decided to found a church in honour of the martyrs - after a hint from his horse. Since the Reformation the church has a barren feel, alleviated only by the windows. German artist Sigmar Polke finished 12 simply beautiful windows in 2009, partly made of semi-precious stones. Crypt and cloister with a museum on the Reformation are also accessible. Audioguide in different languages available (5Sfr plus 5Sfr deposit).QG‑13, Grossmünsterplatz, 8Helmhaus, www.grossmuenster.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Nov - Feb 10:00 - 17:00. February – March 2019 27

Sightseeing LAKE ZURICH

Zurich Tourism

The lake is certainly one of the city’s highlights and a walk along the shores is a must, whatever the season. Start for example at Bellevue and walk along the promenade towards Zürichhorn. After a few hundred metres a park fills the expanse between the lake and the street. The huge Blatterwiese, also known as Chinawiese because the Chinese garden is just next to it, is popular for relaxing, sunbathing or playing sports. There is also a playground for kids. Continuing, you get to Zürichhorn, a small delta with some lakeside restaurants and later still to the railway station Tiefenbrunnen where you can hop on a tram (or train) back to Bellevue. The western shore of the lake is a bit less popular though just as nice for a walk. Start at the Arboretum and walk along the shore passing Enge port, the cactuses of the Sukkulentensammlung, and the Mythenquai until you reach the Landiwiese, a large field where many cultural events take place. If you go just a little further, you can enjoy a beer in the restaurant of the offstream cultural centre Rote Fabrik (red factory), marked by the red brick factory chimney. LAKE ZURICH CRUISES The Lake Zurich Navigation Company operates ships on Lake Zurich and the River Limmat. If you just want ten minutes of captains’ uniforms and brass foghorns, the routes Bürkliplatz-Wollishofen and BürkliplatzZürichhorn are included in any public transport ticket covering zone 110. If that’s not enough for you, go the whole hog with a roundtrip. There are different cruises all year round. They all start from the port at Bürkliplatz close to Bellevue several times a day. The short cruise (90 minutes) for example starts in winter daily at 12:40 and 14:10, more frequent on weekends, the 4-hour one daily at 13:30. Tickets and timetables are available at the port. Standard public transport tickets are valid. QF‑14, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 487 13 33, www.zsg.ch. Tickets for roundtrips 8.80-26Sfr, children half the price, discount with Zurich public transport day cards. 28 Zurich In Your Pocket

GIACOMETTI MURALS In the entrance hall to the city’s police headquarters, Augusto Giacometti’s (1877 - 1947) magnificent murals adorn the vaulted ceiling and the walls. We think this impressive work is a must see for any Zurich visitor! The Giacomettis were a family of artists: Augusto’s cousin Giovanni (1868 - 1933) and Giovanni’s son Alberto (1901 - 1966) were successful artists too. And while Alberto and his haggard bronze figures are probably the best known Giacomettis (you can see some of those figures in the permanent exhibition at Zurich’s Kunsthaus), Augusto had the strongest connection to Zurich, as he studied and later lived here. And the murals in the entrance hall of Zurich’s police headquarters (1923 - 1925) is not the only work of his you can see in the city: he revitalised the art of stained-glass windows, creating the choir windows in the Grossmünster (1932), the window depicting paradise in the northern transept of the Fraumünster (1945) and windows in the Wasserkirche. The murals however, remain the work he is best known for. Admission to the murals is free, the opening hours are quite short though.QG‑12, Polizeiwache, Bahnhofquai 3, 8Bahnhofquai/HB. Open 09:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 16:00, A dmission free, ID required.

We just can’t get enough of these Zurich winter vistas! Zurich Tourism

LINDENHOF This idyllic square on a little hill in Zurich’s old town used to be an important place. The Romans set up shop here and later mediaeval royals would stay here when travelling in the region. Check out the replica Roman tomb stone in the right-hand wall of Pfalzgasse leading down and out of the square. The view from here over the Limmat is very pretty and on sunny days you can join in a game of chess at the back of the square.QG‑12, 8Rathaus. UETLIBERG The Uetliberg is Zurich’s own little mountain, marking the end of the Albis mountain chain on the western side of Lake Zurich. It rises up to 869 metres a.s.l. - towering around 450 metres over the city. There is a lookout tower on top (admission 2Sfr) bringing you to exactly 900 metres a.s.l. and offering a stunning view over the city, the lake and on to the Alps. The mountain is a popular local recreation area all year round. There is a train (S10 from track 21 or 22) from the main station twice an hour (more on weekends). Be zurich.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing aware that you need an additional ticket even if you have a day pass for Zurich (with a day pass, buy a 1 - 2 additional zones’ day ticket at the ticket machine). From the terminal station it’s an easy 10-minute walk to the peak with the lookout tower and a restaurant. You can also walk up from the city to the peak. Take tram N°13 in direction Albisgüetli and get off at the last stop. From there two different paths lead to the top, both take about an hour. You do not need hiking equipment, but we recommend good shoes and staying on the path, especially in winter.

CHURCHES See main sights at the beginning of this chapter for the churches Fraumünster and Grossmünster. ST. PETER St. Peter church is the one with the huge clock-faces on all four sides of the tower you can spot from far away. The diameter of the clock-faces is almost 9 metres - they are said to be the biggest in Europe. The first mayor of Zurich, Rudolf Brun, was buried here in 1360 - a copy of his tomb stone can be seen on the northern side of the church. The nave of the church was finished in 1706, while the choir and the tower date from a Romanesque church built in 1230. This was the first church in Zurich that was built as a Protestant place of worship after the Reformation.QF‑13, St.-Peter-Hofstatt, 8Paradeplatz, www.st-peter-zh.ch. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

The Reformation has left Zurich churches barren and simple: St. Peter’s. Zurich Tourism

WASSERKIRCHE The Wasserkirche, water church, is on the banks of the Limmat - but still, why the name? Actually, it was on an island in the river until the Limmatquai was built in 1839. Dating at least from the 10th century, what you see today is late Gothic style from the 15th century. See also the stained glass windows by Augusto Giacometti in the choir and the crypt with tombs almost as old as the church. A statue of forbidding Huldrich Zwingli stands at one end. Under the stone arches outside, the Kunstkiosk (art kiosque) sells books and prints and street musicians set up shop. Helmhaus gallery in the same building.QG‑13, Limmatquai 31, 8Helmhaus, www.wasserkirche.ch. Open 12:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00, closed Mon, Tue.

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Sightseeing MORE FOR LESS WITH THE ZÜRICH CARD You’re in town for only two days? Too short, but the Zürich Card can help you make the most of it. For a busy day or two in Zurich, you can’t really go wrong with the Zürich Card. It gives you free entry to a number of great museums like the National Museum and dozens more. It also gets you a 10% discount in lots of shops, e.g. Meng Cutlery or Vollenweider Chocolatier. You get free entry to several of Zurich’s best clubs and to the casino and many restaurants will give you dessert on the house with the card or some other extra, if you have a main course first. The Zürich Card also gives you unlimited use of trams, buses and trains within the city and includes the train trip from and to the airport, and the trip up to Zurich’s little mountain Uetliberg. Now that’s a deal!QThe Zürich Card costs 27/19Sfr for 24hr and 53/37Sfr for 72hr. Buy it at SBB counters, at the airport, train stations, at the tourist information at the main station or at all VBZ public transport sales points and from all ticket machines in town (stamp it before you set off!). Check www.zuerich.com/zuerichcard for the full range of discounts. The Zürich Card is issued by Zürich Tourism who cooperate with Zurich In Your Pocket.

FIFA WORLD FOOTBALL MUSEUM Zurich is the hometown of the International Federation of Association Football or FIFA. Its very own museum tells the history of football, FIFA and the World Cup over more than 3,000m². You’re initially met with the jerseys of all 211 FIFA member associations, which are on display in a kind of colour-coded rainbow, as well as a timeline that takes you through the history of FIFA. The second floor is dedicated to the World Cup complete with dozens of historic artefacts including the tracksuit that football’s first real star Pelé wore in 1958. And yes, the original FIFA World Cup trophy is also on display! The third and last floor is dedicated to the impact football has had and continues to have on society. There’s also a gaming zone with giant pinball machines where you and your kids can test your skills with actual footballs. The museum is great for football fans and families and a bistro, a café-bar, a shop and the Sportsbar 1904 can also be found at the museum.QE‑15, Seestrasse 27, 8Bahnhof Enge, tel. (+41) 43 388 25 00, www.fifamuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, closed Mon. Admission 24/14Sfr, students 18Sfr, kids younger than seven free, families 64Sfr. For Tuesdays 50% discount when you book tickets online.

MUSEUMS & ART Zurich is a real city of museums - there are 43 of them. We list the most popular ones and the ones we like best. NONAM (NORTH AMERICA NATIVE MUSEUM) The permanent exhibition of the North America Native Museum shows over 700 objects like masks, boats or totem poles from six regions in the USA and Canada. The exhibitions’ aim is to render a better understanding of the natives of North America and show the various ways they lived. QSeefeldstrasse 317, 8Tiefenbrunnen, tel. (+41) 43 499 24 40, www.nonam.ch. Open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/8/6Sfr, families 25Sfr. ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM From the Himalayas to Ethiopia, from Panama to Papua New Guinea, the treasures of the Ethnographic Museum (Völkerkundemuseum) come from cultures across the planet. They include cultic wood sculptures, intricately patterned textiles as well as collections of photographs and films shot by anthropologists over the past decades. The museum, which is pleasantly located in Zurich’s old botanical gardens, was renovated in 2014. Temporary exhibitions with different focuses.QE‑13, Pelikanstrasse 40, 8Sihlporte, tel. (+41) 44 634 90 10, www.musethno.uzh.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 14:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. 30 Zurich In Your Pocket

You can’t take these home: native clothes at NONAM.

KUNSTHAUS Zurich’s major art museum has an impressive collection with work by many Swiss artists such as Füssli, Hodler, Segantini or Bill and the largest collection of Alberto Giacometti’s work including some of his trademark haggard statues. Work by international artists like Manet, Van Gogh, Kokoschka or Baselitz also please the eye and mind. Additionally there are usually two very worthwhile temporary exhibitions, one large, one small (see section Culture & Events). English language audioguides available. Café and shop on the ground floor.QH‑13, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission for collection 16/11Sfr, for exhibitions 23/18Sfr, combined ticket 26/19Sfr. Free admission to the collection every Wednesday. zurich.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing MARKETS FLEA MARKET KANZLEI This is probably Switzerland’s biggest year-round flea market. Up to 400 people put their second-hand goods on sale here every Saturday, professional traders as well as people who are just flogging things they don’t need anymore.QC‑11, Kanzleistrasse 56, 8Helvetiaplatz, www.flohmarktkanzlei.ch. Open Sat 07:20 - 16:00.

The concrete annex meets the castle-like building of the National Museum. PD

MIGROS MUSEUM FÜR GEGENWARTSKUNST The Migros museum for contemporary art is located in the old Löwenbräu brewery, together with many other art institutions. The museum is financed by the art fund of the eponymous super market co-operative. The collection includes Swiss and international artists with an emphasis on art with a social critical slant and installations reflecting on the topic of space. Feb 16 - May 12, 2019: Producing Futures – An Exhibition on Post-Cyber-Feminisms.QC‑7, Limmatstrasse 270, 8Dammweg, tel. (+41) 44 277 20 50, www. migrosmuseum.ch. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. 12/8Sfr, children under 16 free. Free admission for all Thu 17:00 - 20:00.

NATIONAL MUSEUM (LANDESMUSEUM) It will take you a while to get through the permanent exhibition on Swiss history, but hey, it took centuries to accumulate. Complete with sights, sounds, slides and secret bank accounts, this is not some bone-dry collection of old things. There are four thematic areas: the first section shows the history of migration and settlement, the second examines religious and intellectual history, the third is dedicated to Swiss political history and the fourth section focusses on economy. For most exhibits explanations in English are available. There are temporary exhibitions on changing topics. In August 2016 the striking concrete extension opened to the public. The museum has now finally much more space for exhibitions. E-guide in the ‘National Museum’ app for your smartphone available in many languages.QF‑10, Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 58 466 65 11, www.landesmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. 10/8Sfr.

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The Zurich Experience City Tour with audio-guided commentary

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Exciting tours to Glacier Paradise Mt.Titlis, Jungfraujoch, Heidiland, Lucerne … and many more

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February – March 2019 31

Sightseeing SIGHTSEEING TOURS BEST OF ZURICH - ZÜRICH CITY TOUR Enjoy a city tour in an air-conditioned coach including a short stroll through the old town and a ride with the Dolderbahn rack-and-pinion railway up into the residential area of Zürichberg. In a little more than two hours you get to see Bahnhofstrasse and the financial district, the old guild houses and the universities. There’s live commentary in English and German as well as audio guides in Spanish, Russian, Chinese and Japanese. In addition to the city tour, the company also offers tours to Titlis, Pilatus, Rigi, the Rhine Falls and Jungfraujoch, just to name a few. Excursions for small groups and adventure packages are also available. Visit www.switzerland-tours.ch for more information. QF‑10, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/HB, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50, www.switzerland-tours. ch. From Nov - March the tour starts only at 13:00. Tickets available on the spot, but reservation by phone/website is recommended. Tickets 34/17Sfr, 10 - 20% discount with the Zürich Card. THE ZURICH EXPERIENCE CITY TOUR Ride around Zurich in a modern panorama coach. The two-hour tour gives you an overview of the city showing you the financial district, Bahnhofstrasse and a part of the old town including the Grossmünster, Fraumünster and St. Peter’s churches as well as the posh residential areas on Zürichberg. Commentary including some insights into the history of the city is provided via headsets in eleven languages (English, French, German, Italian, Spanish Japanese, Portuguese, Russian, Chinese, Hindi, Arabic). They also offer many other tours, including trips to Lucerne, Mount Pilatus, Jungfraujoch and more. See website for more tours. QF‑10, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/HB, tel. (+41) 44 383 78 78, www.meiertours.ch. Daily 09:45, 12:00 & 14:00. Tickets 34/17Sfr, available on the spot, reservation by phone recommended. ZURICH OLD TOWN WALKING TOUR A professional guide will take you on this two-hour walk through the old town of Zurich. What links famous literati, scientists or visionaries such as Albert Einstein, Lenin and the Dadaists with Zurich? Discover the city’s history and listen to anecdotes from its past in English and German. Good choice if you really want to see the old town, where the bus tours can’t go. For other walks such as the ones on design and gourmet food ask at the Tourist Information at the main station. Reservation by phone recommended.QG‑11, Tourist Information Main Train Station, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 215 40 00, www.zuerich.com. Starts at the Tourist Information. Nov - March tour starts Wed & Sun 11:00, Sat 11:00 (German) & 15:00 (English). 25/12.50Sfr, 50% discount with Zürich Card. 32 Zurich In Your Pocket

MUSEUM FÜR GESTALTUNG ZÜRICH (MUSEUM OF DESIGN) The collection of Zurich’s design museum Museum für Gestaltung comprises more than half a million objects relating to poster and object design as well as applied art and graphics and is of international renown. The museum runs two locations and has regularly changing temporary exhibitions on both locations (see the Events section of this guide), often with works from its collection. The location on Ausstellungsstrasse close to the main station is in a listed building, an outstanding example of Swiss architecture that has just been reonvated, the other one in the onetime dairy factory of Toni-Areal, which also accommodates the Zurich University of the Arts. (Pfingstweidstrasse 96, A-7). While a museum’s storage rooms are usually off-limits to visitors, at the Toni-Areal guided tours take you deep into its archives (daily at 12:00, in German). Tour numbers are limited, register on its website.QE-9, Ausstellungsstrasse 60 (Museum für Gestaltung) and A-7, Pfingstweidstrasse 96 (Toni-Areal), 8Museum für Gestaltung / Toni-Areal, tel. (+41) 43 446 67 38, www.museum-gestaltung.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/8Sfr, daypass for both locations 15/10Sfr.

Colourful posters on display at the Museum of Design.

SWISS FINANCE MUSEUM With all its banks Zurich is known as the city for finance and money and it finally has a museum dedicated to the subject. What are stocks, how were they traded and how does it work today? And how did Switzerland become an important marketplace for finance? These questions and more are answered by audio installations as well as interactive video installations. Want to go public with your company? No problem, a friendly gentlemen on a video screen will explain the process to you. There’s also a short trainee programme available for stockbrokers and a game where you can prove your skills afterwards. The museum gives you an insight into the world of finance and is situated in the headquarters of SIX, the company that operates the Swiss stock exchange. You can also download its free app to your smartphone, which will guide you through the museum.QPfingstweidstrasse 110, 8Sportweg, tel. (+41) 58 399 32 88, www.finanzmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10/8Sfr, children up to 12 years free. zurich.inyourpocket.com

Old-town stroll at the top of Marktgasse and now you’re on the main throughway of pedestrian Niederdorf, the other part of the old town. On the right is 5 Cabaret Voltaire, from where the Dada movement - jolifanto bambla o falli bambla - set off to confuse the bourgeoisie in 1916. A little further on to the left, set back in a little courtyard, is Schober, a richly decorated sweets and pastry shop worth at least a quick visit. Directly opposite are Schwarzenbach coffee roasters - the irresistible smell gets even better if you stick your nose inside. Strolling further along Münstergasse you pass the Bodega Española on your right, where in the 1950s author Max Frisch used to drop in for a beer and a few tapas.

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On the other end of the bridge you have the Rathaus, the town hall, to your right and the Rathaus café to your left. Our rigorous ramble takes us straight ahead, across the tram lines on Limmatquai and into Marktgasse, where you’ll find one of Zurich’s prettiest flower shops. Turn right

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Ahead of you is the church tower of 3 St. Peter (see p. 29), our next destination situated on one of Zurich’s most peaceful squares (St. Peterhofstatt). Going left, either of the alleys (Weggengasse or Thermengasse) gets you to the second bridge, 4 Rathausbrücke, also known as the vegetable bridge because of the small fruit & veg market held here on Saturdays.

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Just after Schipfe 16 take the climb up to 2 Lindenhof (see p. 28), just turn right and up Fortunagasse and then left into Lindenhof with its tall trees, one of the oldest parts of Zurich. The mediaeval German kings would stop over here and the Romans also occupied the spot in their day and age. Take in the view over the parapet or play with the royals who are always here, in one of the games of outdoor chess. Leaving Lindenhof opposite from where you entered (down Pfalz-Gasse), there’s a copy of the Roman tombstone which mentions Turicum (Zurich) on your right, set in the wall.

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Zurich’s old town snuggles up to both banks of the river Limmat, so our old-town stroll does much the same and heads upstream, crossing two bridges and passing a third. We set off at the bridge named after Zurich’s first mayor, 1 Rudolf-Brun Brücke, which is easily reached from Bahnhofstrasse or by walking along the Limmat (down Bahnhofquai) from the main train station. At the bridge’s south-western corner, just by the Swiss handicrafts shop, head down the steps to the metal walkway leading upstream along the Limmat, almost touching the water (Heiri-Steg). Soon you’re on a cobbled street (Schipfe), with some miniature antiques shops and boutiques on the right and the restaurant Schipfe 16, a work project for unemployed and well worth a quick stop, on the left.

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Zurich Tourism

Bahn hofst

The view of Grossmünster from wintry Lindenhof.

A few steps along you’re at Zurich’s landmark Romanesque - style abbey, the somewhat austere 6 Grossmünster with its double towers and their rather unique, Neo-Gothic spires added in the 18th century. Looking towards the river, the third bridge, Münsterbrücke, appears and the graceful Fraumünster Abbey is visible across the Limmat. Take the steps from the Grossmünster courtyard down to the 7 Wasserkirche and the Helmhaus art gallery by the river and then cross the bridge to 8 Fraumünster (see p. 27) to gaze at the famous stained-glass windows by Chagall. You’ve seen all the really important parts of Zurich’s old town now and can finish off with one of Zurich’s other major attractions - the lake - which is just five minutes’ walk further along the river.

February – March 2019 33

Take a piece of Zurich with you If you’ve asked yourself what to take home from your trip to Zurich, here are some local products, apart from pocket knives and cuckoo clocks. We think they make a good gift or souvenir, as most are made or designed in and around the city. For all of the classic souvenirs take a look at souvenir shops on p. 42.

FRANZISKA LUETHY KNITWEAR Zurich fashion designer Franziska Luethy lives in Zurich and designs knitwear for women that is somewhere between casual and elegant. Be it her pullovers, hats or jackets, we think her designs with unique colour combinations make for an extraordinary Zurich souvenir. She has also received the Swiss Design award several times for her work. Her clothes are produced in limited editions at small knitting mills with only the finest of yarns. Available at Erbudak, Ankerstrasse 8, (+41) 44 240 04 14.Qwww.franziskaluethy.ch.

STRAUMANN HÜPPEN These traditional Zurich wafer rolls are crispy and filled with fine chocolate, making them a perfect gift for nearly anyone. Although the predecessors of today’s sweet hüppen, which are said to have been produced centuries ago, did not have a filling and were considered to be more of a treat for the poor, these Hüppen are now considered a delicacy. The Straumann family has been producing them since the 1940s, at first within the city, but have since moved to Wädenswil, a short distance outside of Zurich. You can buy Hüppen at the Globus and Jelmoli (see p. 36) department stores.Qwww.straumannhueppen.ch.

ZÜRIHONIG - HONEY FROM ZURICH The Swiss love honey, which is why Zurich has a number of honey bee colonies that actually live within city limits. Bee keepers Peter Schneider, Urs Gähler and their colleagues have placed bee colonies on some of the city’s highest rooftops including the Marriott hotel and the Globus department store. The bees fly out and gather nectar from trees and flowers in Zurich’s parks, balconies and rooftops, which is then stored as honey and sold as Zürihonig. This is certainly a special souvenir. Available at the Jelmoli and Globus department (see p. 36) stores and at the Marriott hotel (see p. 55). Qwww.zürihonig.ch 34 Zurich In Your Pocket

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Shopping

A stroll through the old town comes with lots of shopping opportunities. | Zurich Tourism

Zurich has a reputation as a shopping city, even if it’s not quite London or Milan. Bahnhofstrasse is especially renowned as one of the most exclusive and expensive shopping streets in the world. For Swiss and urban design, Europaallee and the area around Langstrasse are good places to start. As far as shopping malls are concerned, Switzerland can’t match other European nations where huge centres are the order of the day, but perhaps that’s a good thing. The Sihlcity shopping centre, an easily accessible mall that opened in 2007, is an example of innovative development, without the massive sprawl of other malls. The Glatt shopping mall just outside city limits is Switzerland’s most popular shopping centre. The malls and best shopping areas of the city are listed here together with other notable shops. Remember that all shops are closed on Sundays except those at the railway stations and some souvenir shops. For more suggestions visit www.zurich.inyourpocket.com

every shopping fan. Wander down the side streets as well, where shops are no less luxurious and some more unusual little gems are hidden. Niederdorf (G-11/13) Even if Niederdorf - the part of the old town east of the River Limmat - is better known for dining and nightlife than shopping, it’s well worth expanding your shopping tour into this quarter. Along the Limmatquai and Niederdorfstrasse streets - both pedestrian areas - you’ll find smaller shops with up-to-date street wear, fancy shoes and fashion stores. The smaller alleys are also well worth a peek. Old Town (F/G-12/13) The old town between Bahnhofstrasse and the River Limmat is another shopping area not to be missed. Try the pedestrian street Rennweg with its international clothing brands and boutiques or Storchengasse with its luxury designer stores.

The main shopping areas are: Bahnhofstrasse (F-11/14) Bahnhofstrasse leads from the main railway station to the lake and is mostly a pedestrian area with nearly no traffic, but watch out for the trams! It’s world-famous for its luxury stores: find jewellery, watches and designer boutiques as well as the big department stores Jelmoli, Globus and Manor here. In recent years, more big foreign companies like Apple have opened stores on Bahnhofstrasse displacing some traditional Zurich businesses and some say Bahnhofstrasse is losing its atmosphere. Naturally not everyone is happy about this. Nevertheless, a walk down this famous street is a must for facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

OPENING HOURS Many shops on and around Bahnhofstrasse are open Mon to Fri 09:00 - 19:00 / 20:00. Smaller shops including jewellers and shops outside the centre often close at 18:30, some are closed on Monday mornings. On Saturdays most shops open from 09:00 - 17:00 (or 18:00, department stores until 20:00). On Sundays all shops are closed (except in train and petrol stations). Banking hours are Mon - Fri 08:30 - 16:30. February – March 2019 35

Shopping BOOKS & MUSIC 16TONS With tons of new and second-hand vinyl records, mainly of the genres reggae, soul, rockabillly and dancehall, 16tons is one of the city’s first addresses for vinyl lovers.QC‑11, Anwandstrasse 25, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 44 242 02 03, www.16tons.ch. Open 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

chocolates with symbols to fill the box. They have artist boxes in case you don’t have anything to say but still would like to buy the nice chocolate. Confectionery availble as well. QE‑11, Lagerstrasse 28, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 44 211 66 11, www.saychocolate.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Mon 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.

ORELL FÜSSLI - THE BOOKSHOP Zurich’s biggest English-language bookshop stocks thousands of fiction and non-fiction books, magazines, audio books and DVDs - and all in English. It’s located on the third floor of the Orell Füssli bookshop just off Bahnhofstrasse.QF‑12, Füsslistrasse 4 (3rd floor), 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 04 44, www.orellfussli.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. PILE OF BOOKS Lovely, small English bookshop. Riffle through the pile and discover stuff you didn‘t even know existed.QB‑13, Zentralstrasse 16, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 43 333 29 45, www.pileofbooks.ch. Open 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 16:00, closed Mon, Tue, Sun.

CHOCOLATE & SWEETS HONOLD LA CONFISERIE Since 1905 Honold Confiserie has been producing chocolate, cakes and pastries just next to Bahnhofstrasse. Their chocolate cake and the birchermüesli (oat flakes with fruits and yoghurt) are also well-known. The shop is also a coffee bar with a balcony on the first floor, so you can enjoy Honold’s sweets while watching busy shopping on Rennweg.QF‑12, Rennweg 53, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 52 58, www.honold.ch. Open 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. SAY CHOCOLATE Here you can say it with chocolate - literally. With the chocolate letters (Swiss chocolate of course) sold in this shop, you can write messages to your loved ones. You can choose between three different sizes of boxes, depending on your message. They fit 9, 16 or 25 letters. There are

The fashion department of the Globus department store.

R. Steck, Wädenswil

VOLLENWEIDER CHOCOLATIER CONFISEUR This confectioner’s home town is Winterthur, but his first Zurich shop is an enrichment for the lovers of sweets in town. Macaroons, truffes, small chocolate candies - they have it all. And much more.QH‑14, Theaterstrasse 1, 8Opernhaus, tel. (+41) 43 288 04 04, www.vollenweiderchocolatier.ch. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

DEPARTMENT STORES GLOBUS The Globus is a classic and stylish department store on Bahnhofstrasse: on six levels you can find everything for your beauty, the latest fashion from brands like Esprit, Marco Polo, Strellson and Dockers, shoes, watches, jewellery, travel bags, lingerie and much more. After strolling through the stories take a break in the pleasant restaurant on the top floor or have a drink in the bar just next to the entrance towards Bahnhofstrasse.QF‑11, Schweizergasse 11, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 58 578 11 11, www.globus.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Exclusive shoes, bags and accessoires designed in Zurich. Oberdorfstrasse 13 8001 Zürich www.stefitalman.ch 36 Zurich In Your Pocket

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Shopping BACHMANN CHOCOLATE WORLD Bachmann, Lucerne’s No.1 confectioner, has just opened a new temple to chocolate on Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse this December. On the ground floor you’ll find bread, pastries, sandwiches and the like, but on the second floor the Chocolate World features an amazing flowing wall of chocolate (2,000 litres to be precise!). Chocolate even runs underneath the glass stairway leading upstairs where you can choose a variety of fresh Bachmann chocolate bars as well as chocolate truffles. Simply pay by weight or by piece. A whole assortment of Lindt chocolates is also available and a café is set to open on the third floor in March.QF-11, Bahnhofstrasse 89, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 44 221 97 80, www.confiserie.ch. Open 06:45 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Bahnhofstrasse 89 Zürich

JELMOLI They call themselves the house of brands - and that’s what they are indeed: Hugo, DKNY, Karl Lagerfeld, Diesel, Tommy Hilfiger, Versace are just some of the fashion brands you can find here. But there’s more than fashion: perfumes, household goods, a huge sports and an electronics department.QF‑12, Seidengasse 1, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 220 44 11, www.jelmoli.ch. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. MANOR Manor is probably the most casual of the trinity of department stores on Bahnhofstrasse. It specialises in young and casual fashion and sells its own brands as well as brands of renown.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 75, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 229 56 99, www.manor.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

FASHION APARTMENT The extensive use of concrete gives the shop a subtle, serene atmosphere. The fashion they sell is pretty much the same: there are elegant basics but also more eccentric pieces of fashion for men and wome.QE‑12, Löwenstrasse 1, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 243 15 51, www.theapartmentstore.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. BOUTIQUE ROMA Roma is the boutique for clothing by international avantgarde designers like Rick Owens, Dries van Noten und Ann Demeulemeester. They feature men’s and women’s wear and take pride in traditional handicraft and exquisite materials.QF‑12, Pelikanstrasse 6/8, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 222 18 80, www.boutique-roma.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

February – March 2019 37

Shopping AIRSIDE CENTER AT ZURICH AIRPORT Zurich airport’s passenger area is a shopping centre too! And quite a large one, in fact: more than 60 shops are located in the Airside Center which is accessible only to passengers. Here you can find literally anything you might be looking for. Be it Swiss watches, fashion or souvenirs, it’s all there, Swiss as well as international brands of course. In the Zürich Duty Free Stores you can buy a varied range of perfumes and cosmetics, tobacco products, spirits, wines and chocolate creations from Lindt, Cailler or Toblerone. The many restaurants and bars serving Swiss and international specialties make the Airside Center complete. So if you arrive at the airport early - don’t worry. You can use the time to hunt around for that last gift or souvenir - or have a fine meal before you take off!QZurich Airport, www.flughafen-zuerich.ch/shopping. Open 06:00 22:00. Accessible only to passengers. CABINET This exceptional concept store is curated by designer Nina van Rooijen and her husband, fashion journalist Jeroen van Rooijen. Expect fashion and accessories beyond the everyday (including Nina’s very own collection), body care products, but also lifestyle and interior design pieces from Zurich and around the world, all presented in an inspiring way.QC‑8, Viaduktstrasse 83, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 273 95 13, www.cabinet-store.ch. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. FIDELIO WOMEN If you’re looking for casual, but still stylish fashion for women, try Fidelio. They sell renowned labels like Acne Studios, Iro, Myths, Thom Krom and their very own label fidelio.QF‑12, Münzplatz 1, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 13 11, www.fideliokleider.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.

Sustainable fashion on display at rrrevolve.

38 Zurich In Your Pocket

GANT Located on Rennweg, just off Bahnhofstrasse, this is the flagship store for GANT in Zurich. Founded in 1949 in the US GANT stands for casual, yet chic fashion for both men and women. With shirts, colourful pants, casual business suits, blouses, blazers or shoes, this shop features all of the latest GANT collections spread out over more than 300m² on two floors. Other GANT shops can be found on Europaallee (Lagerstrasse 10) and at the Sihlcity shopping centre (Kalandeplatz 1).QF‑12, Rennweg 30, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 221 96 66, www.global.gant.com. Open 10:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. GRIEDER If you’re looking for the latest women’s collections of the world’s top fashion labels, Grieder is the place to go. Be it business suits for the office, evening gowns or leather coats, it’s all there waiting for you to try it on. As well as shoes and accessories. And it’s not just for women - they have a remarkable men’s department as well.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 30, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 224 36 36, www.bongenie-grieder.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. MAISON GASSMANN Gassmann is an exquisite fashion house for women in the old town. They moved to a new location in summer 2016 and now have a modern spacious store. Find brands like Akris, Etro, Manoush and many more - and excellent advice and service. They also have a kid’s section.QF‑13, Weinplatz 3, 8Paradeplatz / Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 211 08 37, www.maisongassmann.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. RRREVOLVE FAIR FASHION rrrevolve specialises in fashion for men and women that is produced sustainably with fair trade materials. You’ll find brands like Amedangels, Wunderwerk and Jungle Folk here and it also has a concept store with accessories such as glasses and watches, bags, some furniture and more just around the corner at Josefstrasse 45. All of these products are also available on its large webshop.QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse 17, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 272 95 61, www.rrrevolve.ch. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. THE GALLERY This is a shopping paradise for women and men - 20 fashion brands of renown such as Closed, Drykorn, iBLUES, Designers Remix, iheart or Coccinelle are on offer. The store has sections for casual trendy, modern contemporary, affordable luxury, jeans fashion and accessories rather than being organised by brands. And while fashion is at the core of this store there are some lifestyle products like candles or pillows as well - and there is even a coffee and juice bar. They have monthly offers for beauty products and even food or beverages, to make your shopping experience that bit more exciting.QF‑12, Löwenstrasse 40, 8Löwenplatz, tel. (+41) 43 343 95 71, www.thegalleryconcept.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. zurich.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App

Quite a selection of shirts and ties at the Gant store.

SHOPPING MALLS GLATT This is Switzerland’s most popular shopping mall. There are typical Swiss shops as well as international brands, watches and jewellery shops and department stores – around 100 shops spread out across 43,000m², all under one roof. It’s located just outside city limits, but it’s easy to get there. Take the S3, S9 or S12 train to Stettbach and from there take tram 12 to the Glatt stop and you’ll be in this shopping paradise in just 20 minutes.QNeue Winterthurerstrasse 99, Wallisellen, 8Glatt, tel. (+41) 44 839 42 42, www.glatt.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

IM VIADUKT More than 30 shops and a market hall for groceries nestled under the arches of a railway viaduct built in the 19th century. Not a classic shopping mall but a street with one shop after another. The emphasis is on small and trendy fashion labels, studios and concept stores rather than the big luxury brands. In the market hall, more than 30 vendors offer their goods, like fresh food and cured meats.QD‑8, Limmatstrasse 259, 8Dammweg, www.im-viadukt.ch. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.

OUTDOOR CLOTHING & SPORTS ARC’TERYX ZÜRICH Canadian brand Arc’teryx stands for top-notch outdoor clothing and gear. Be it shell jackets, insulated jackets, base or midlayer clothing, footwear or backpacks and climbing gear, you’ll find it all in this shop at Im Viadukt shopping street.QC‑8, Viaduktstrasse 33, 8Dammweg, tel. (+41) 44 322 33 27, www.arcteryx.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11: 00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

GANT STORE RENNWEG ZÜRICH GANT.COM

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February – March 2019 39

Shopping BURTON STORE ZÜRICH This is Zurich’s flagship store for the American snowboard and clothing manufacturer Burton. Founded in 1977 by snowboarding pioneer Jake Burton Carpenter, it has become one of the biggest and best known brands for winter sporting goods. In addition to snowboard apparel, accessories and protective gear, Burton also offers outerwear, jackets and sweaters, bags and luggage, camping equipment such as tents and sleeping bags and much more, so you don’t have to be a hardcore mountain junky to find something here. QG‑12, Marktgasse 3/5, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 578 09 46, www.burton.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.

LUXURY SHOPPING

Pinko

Although there are dozens of reasons to visit Zurich, one of the best is a chance to do some luxury shopping. Whether you’re a dedicated fashionista or just enjoy browsing, Zurich has all of the world’s most soughtafter brands. Many of the best labels can be found on and around Bahnhofstrasse and Storchengasse, the Swiss equivalent of New York’s Fifth Avenue. DOLCE & GABBANNA Dolce & Gabbana love flower prints, sumptuous accessories and body-hugging designs. Explore its latest luxury fashion collections for men, women and kids.QF‑14, Bahnhofstrasse 10, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 497 35 04, www.dolcegabbana.com. PINKO PINKO is an Italian fashion brand founded in the early 1980s. With its daring, even cheeky feminine collections it attracts strong personalities regardless of age. Its all new Zurich store is located on Strehlgasse 9, right around Storchengasse (a shopping paradise for demanding fashionistas).QG‑13, Strehlgasse 9, tel. (+41) 44 577 57 98, www.pinko.com. Open 09:30 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. TROIS POMMES STORE WOMEN The Trois Pommes is the epitome of a concept store for women and probably one of the most luxurious ones in Zurich. Only fashion, shoes and accessories of the most exquisite brands make it to this store. They are presented in an equally luxurious interior.QG‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 18, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 09 43, www.troispommes.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. VALENTINO One of the world’s most sought-after fashion labels offers the latest women’s collections including shoes, purses and fashionable eyewear at this boutique.QG‑13, Storchengasse 12, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 216 80 20, www.valentino.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. 40 Zurich In Your Pocket

JACK WOLFSKIN STORE This well known producer of outdoor wear and equipment of German origins has a big flagship store in Zurich. Find jackets (well fitted to urban environment as well), winter sport apparel, trekking and hiking shoes, bags and much more.QE‑11, Kasernenstrasse 95, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 252 86 25, www.jack-wolfskin.ch. Open 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. TRANSA This is the place for quality outdoor clothing and equipment - anything from rucksacks to hiking, biking and climbing hardware, advice by experts included. This shop features a 7-metre high climbing wall to really test your equipment.QE‑11, Lagerstrasse 4, tel. (+41) 848 084 81, www.transa.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

PERFUMES & BEAUTY OSSWALD Osswald is the specialist for perfumes and beauty products for facial care and spa treatments on Bahnhofstrasse. This family-run business was founded in 1921 and still offers excellent consulting services and beauty aids. Facial care products include Swiss brands like La Prairie, Cell Cosmet and Valmont, among many others, and the fragrances available are nearly endless including

Marktgasse 3-5 8001 Zürich Switzerland

BurtonStoreZuerich burtonstorezuerich www.burton.com

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Shopping many niche brands from around the globe like Profumum Roma, Roja and Thameen. In their facial spa, they also offer medical and cosmetic facial treatments, but you’ll also find make-up, hair products, home fragrances and even accessories for your bathroom here.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 17, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 20 30, www.osswald.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00 (facial spa until 16:00), closed Sun.

SHOES, BEACHWEAR & ACCESSORIES TA-BOU BEACHWEAR At TA-BOU beachwear they sell bikinis the whole year round. And not just any bikinis, but their very own collection! This family business has been successfully designing and producing bikinis and swimsuits for exactly 40 years! And you can buy each top or bottom piece individually, so you can combine them according to your taste - or size. In their shop it feels like summer anytime of the year.QF‑12, Uraniastrasse 31, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 221 08 11, www.ta-bou.com. Open 10:00 18:30, closed Sun.

T h e m o s t lu x u r io u s f ra g ra n c e s and skincare in the wor ld S I N C E 1921

BAHNHOFSTRASSE 17 | 8001 ZÜRICH | TEL.044 211 2030 | OSSWALD.CH

Ta-Bou: bikinis and swimsuits all year round.

BENCI BROTHERS The former co-owner and designer of Navyboot Flaviano Bencivenga is back with a new shoe label - the Benci Brothers. The Benci Brother’s pride are welted shoes for men, designed by them and manufactured by hand in Italy in up to 150 production steps. They have all kinds of other high quality shoes, bags and accessories for men and women too.QF‑12, Sihlstrasse 37, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 43 497 25 60, www.bencibrothers.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. MCM BOUTIQUE MCM stands for luxury bags, backpacks, wallets and accessories designed with a certain twist: lots of rivets, colourful subjects and high quality materials - the latest chic, one might say.QF‑13, Münsterhof 13, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 368 16 06, www.mcmworldwide.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 18:00, closed Sun. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

STEFI TALMAN Zurich-born designer Stefi Talman built her international reputation in the 1980s with a half boot called Zip, which featured a zipper crossing the instep at an angle. She still designs shoes and leather accessories and her remarkable collections of shoes, bags and wallets for women are on offer at her boutique in the upper part of the old town. Go and take a peek. A pair of Stefi Talmann shoes is certainly an unexpected and original Zurich souvenir.QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 13, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 252 81 10, www.stefitalman.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

SWISS DESIGN FREITAG The Freitag brothers produce all kinds of bags made out of old truck tarpaulins and used seat belts from cars. They‘ve been at it since 1993 and with great success. The flagship store is made of 17 old freight containers stacked up to make a tower, so you can choose from hundreds of bags on four floors. From the top of the tower you can spot the trucks on the neighbouring ‘highway’-bridge across Zurich – and be inspired just as the Freitag brothers were when they had the same view from the window of their living room in the early 90s. QB‑8, Geroldstrasse 17, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 43 366 95 20, www.freitag.ch. Open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. February – March 2019 41

Shopping PELIKAMO This Zurich based label established in 2011 makes casual, colourful urban jackets, sweaters and legwear as well as classic business clothing, all for men only. Their shop is a bit of a living room - you can sit down on their sofa and riffle through some magazines. And of course - you can try on clothes, expertly advised by the staff.QF‑13, Pelikanstrasse 11, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 210 04 06, www.pelikamo.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 18:00, closed Sun. XESS + BABA xess + baba has been synonymous with successfully designed Swiss knitwear for men and women since 1994 when Tina Grässli founded the label. Almost all of the patterned jackets, pullovers, tops and dresses are reversible and can be worn either way thanks to a special technique that connects two layers of knit. Timeless, yet surprisingly modern.QB‑11, Tödistrasse 44, 8Stockerstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 243 84 90, www.xessbaba.ch. Open 10:00 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, closed Mon, Tue, Sun.

SWISS FOOD BERG UND TAL Located in Zurich’s first market hall in the Viadukt shopping mall, Berg und Tal - literally mountain and valley - sells delicacies and specialities from all over Switzerland. Sausages from the mountains, pasta from Ticino, syrups, jam, fruit liquor, cheese... and much more. As you’re here, stroll through the rest of the hall as well, as there are many more food specialities to explore.QD‑8, Limmatstrasse 231 (Im Viadukt), 8Dammweg, tel. (+41) 44 271 21 61, www.berg-tal.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PRETÔT DELIKATESSEN It‘s all about sausages here: smoked, dried, for boiling coming from all the different corners of Switzerland, straight to the heart of Zurich.QF‑12, Kuttelgasse 3, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 221 05 33, www.lafinebouche.ch. Open 09:30 -18:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:30 - 16:30, closed Sun.

TOY STORES FRANZ CARL WEBER This is the toy shop to visit in the city centre conveniently located right next to the main station. There’s virtually anything you might desire on four huge floors from first toys for newborns to tech toys for grown-ups, not to mention books and toys from Switzerland. Your kids will absolutely love the slide that connects the first level with the ground floor.QF‑12, Bahnhofplatz 9, 8Bahnhofplatz/HB, tel. (+41) 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

SOUVENIRS Quality Swiss fabrics at Christian Fischbacher.

SWISS FABRICS BOUTIQUE CHRISTIAN FISCHBACHER For nearly 200 years this family-owned Swiss company has produced fine fabrics for luxurious interiors. Drop by its Zurich boutique to find everything from finest bed linen, duvets, pillows and cushions to carpets, accessories and bath textiles. All of the standard sizes are available here, but the staff can also take custom orders. They’ll also be happy to help you find the perfect interior fabrics to match your personality and your home.QF‑13, Kappelergasse 11, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 211 57 47, www.fischbacher.com. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 16:00. Closed Sun.

Souvenirs, souvenirs! If you want to take home a souvenir from your trip to Zurich, be it for your loved ones or for yourself, here are the best souvenir shops in town. For more ideas check p. 34. EDELWEISS SHOP At the Edelweiss shop, they have a huge choice of souvenirs and gifts including clothing (with lots of Swiss crosses of course!), toys, bags, watches army knives and

FABRIC FRONTLINE Exquisite foulards, scarfs, ties and coats all made of coloured, patterned silk, is what the Swiss family business Fabric Frontline specialises in. You can find it all in their store in the covered courtyard of the Credit Suisse building at Paradeplatz.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 222 20 00, www.fabricfrontline.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 42 Zurich In Your Pocket

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Shopping much more. The shop is situated at the exit of the big hall of the main railway station towards Bahnhofstrasse. They feature brands like Swiss Military and Alpine Club.QF‑11, Bahnhofplatz, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 43 497 23 80, www.edelweiss-shops.ch. Open 08:00 - 21:30. MENG CUTLERY Meng Cutlery just off Bahnhofstrasse offers classic Swiss souvenirs such as army knives by the famous brand Victorinox. Also in stock: other knives, scissors, watches and more ideas for gifts to take home. Sister shop at Poststrasse 4 (E-4).QF‑12, Rennweg 31, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 18 48, www.mengcutlery.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

Souvenirs with Swiss crosses and more at Schweizer Heimatwerk. PD

MESSER-SCHARF Pocket knives are part of Swiss cultural heritage, and messer-scharf takes great pride in this heritage. You’ll find an extensive range of knives and other products by Victorinox, such as kitchen implements, watches or rucksacks. messerscharf also stock high-end kitchen knives by Chroma. QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 25, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 01 20, www.messer-scharf.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. SCHWEIZER HEIMATWERK Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high quality: fashion accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue sets all with lots of Swiss crosses, red and white colours, cows and edelweiss. Sister shop at Bahnhofstrasse 2.QG‑12, Uraniastrasse 1, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 222 19 55, www.heimatwerk.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 18:00. Closed Sun. VICTORINOX FLAGSHIP STORE This is the Zurich flagship store by Victorinox, the Swiss family business of world renown. They may be best known for their Swiss army knives, but they also produce other high-quality items like cutlery, watches, travel gear and fashion - which is all in stock at this store of course. At the Knife Assembly Station you can even make your own unique Swiss army knife by choosing size, functions and colours. A special souvenir or gift!QF‑12, Rennweg 58, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 229 60 70, www.victorinox.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:30. Closed Sun. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

TEDDY’S SOUVENIR-SHOP At Teddy’s they have a wide range of souvenirs and gifts. Whether it’s watches, cowbells, hats, music boxes, soft toys, pocket knives or clothes you’re after: you’ll find it all at their shop on Limmatquai, just next to the church Grossmünster. And it’s not just souvenirs of Zurich, like beer glasses with the city’s coat of arms, but from all over Switzerland. For example the sännechutte, a traditional shirt worn by alpine herdsmen since days of yore. And yes, this souvenir shop is open even on Sundays.QG‑13, Limmatquai 34, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 22 89, www.teddyssouvenirshop.ch. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00, Nov March Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

ZÜRICHFOTO.CH Photographer Rolf Müllestein sells souvenirs of Zurich beyond army knives and cow bells: authentic black and white pictures of the city of Zurich, the old town, the lake. QG‑13, Kirchgasse 32, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 21 45, www.zuerichfoto.ch. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Luxury Bedding

Kappelergasse 11 8001 Zürich +41 44 211 57 47 WWW.FISCHBACHER.COM

February – March 2019 43

Watches & Jewellery Switzerland is the country of watches - yet another cliché? Actually, it couldn’t be more true. More than 95% of all watches with a value of over 1000Sfr are made in Switzerland! The Swiss watch industry started off in Geneva around 1600, founded by Huguenots who had fled France. Zurich however is a prime shopping spot for watches today. Whether on busy Bahnhofstrasse or in a quieter corner, you will find a huge selection of brands and models here. The next couple of pages will guide you! AIRBIJOUX A fine selection of watches at the lake end of Bahnhofstrasse: e.g. Baume & Mercier, Charriol and Eterna. QF‑14, Bahnhofstrasse 1, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 212 21 71, www.airbijoux.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. BEYER WATCHES & JEWELLERY For more than 250 years Beyer has been selling and repairing watches. The family business is now managed by the eighth generation. Beyer specializes in selling some of the world’s most sought-after brands, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Breguet, Hublot, and IWC as well as its own Beyer brand.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 31, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 344 63 63, www.beyer-ch.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Watches, jewellery and sleek ambience at Christ.

NEW CARTIER BOUTIQUE The French luxury brand Cartier opened an all-new boutique on Bahnhofstrasse in December 2018. A blend of bronze, marble and wood creates a modern and exquisite atmosphere where the latest collections of its prestigious jewellery, luxury watches, accessories and perfumes are presented. The Zurich boutique also features a bar of sorts. QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 47, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 11 41, www.cartier.com. Open 10:00 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. CHOPARD BOUTIQUE Chopard is one of the most exclusive manufacturers of Swiss luxury watches. In their small boutique you can purchase their classic L.U.C. watches and their jewellery. QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 40, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 215 30 30, www.chopard.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 44 Zurich In Your Pocket

TAX FREE SHOPPING As a foreign resident you are entitled to a refund when making purchases for more than 300Sfr (including VAT), provided the goods leave the country within 30 days. You will get back the VAT, which in Switzerland is only 7.7% - minus a handling fee. It’s as easy as this: watch out for the Global Blue - Tax Free sign. When paying, ask for a tax refund form. When leaving Switzerland, present your purchases, receipts and passport to Swiss customs officials. They will stamp your tax refund form. To claim an immediate refund, present your stamped tax refund form at a Global Blue refund point (e.g. at Zurich Airport or all around Europe). For more infos see www.global-blue.com. CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY With more than 70 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweler in Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag Heuer, Certina, Frederique Constant and their very own CHRIST Swiss Made as well as many fashion jewels. There are sister shops at the department store Jelmoli (Seidengasse 1, F-12), ShopVille at the main train station and the shopping centre Sihlcity (Kalanderplatz 1, C-16).QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 78, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 212 14 47, www.christ-swiss.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. FATA MORGANA Fata Morgana specialises in fairly produced and traded jewellery as well as all kinds of accessories and even lamps and interior design items. It stocks for example imaginative collections by Auryn Jewels and silver jewellery for men by D’Oz Hommes, not to mention handmade Indonesian pieces by E’Kollektion. All of it is presented in a unique way in this lovely shop on Limmatquai.QG‑13, Limmatquai 36, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 262 18 06, www.fata-morgana.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 18:00. Closed Sun. GELLNER & FRIENDS This is jewellery manufacturer Gellner’s flagship store in Switzerland and here it’s all about cultured pearls. The collection includes elegant earrings, bracelets, necklaces and daring rings, all designed and handmade at the factory. Apart from Gellner’s very own pieces, the shop also sells jewellery by Danish designer Ole Lynggaard, Dutch brand Minitials and renowned watches by Nomos Glashütte. QF‑12, Strehlgasse 27, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 552 24 03, www.gellnerandfriends.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. NEW HARRY WINSTON ZURICH Since 2018 Harry Winston has had its very own boutique on one of Zurich’s most prestigious squares, Paradeplatz. zurich.inyourpocket.com

Watches & Jewellery Nearly 150m² of space features areas for a highend jewellery collection, a bridal collection and watches. Diamonds, of course, are its speciality and they can be found on rings, bracelets, earrings and necklaces. After all, Harry Winston, who opened his first store in New York in 1932, was better known as the King of Diamonds.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 28, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 456 37 40, www.harrywinston.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, closed Sun. KURZ JEWELLERY AND WATCHES Kurz have a large selection of jewellery as well as a broad range of mainly Swiss watch brands like Omega, Zenith, Maurice Lacroix, Tissot, Rado and many more (sister shop at Globus, Schweizergasse 11).QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 80, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 44 219 77 77, www.kurzschmuckuhren.ch. Open 09:15 - 18:30, Sat 09:15 - 17:00. closed Sun. LES AMBASSADEURS Find a large selection of Swiss watches and jewellery at Les Ambassadeurs store. They have long established partnerships with leading brands such as Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, Breguet as well as Pasquale Bruni and Pomellato.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 64, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 227 17 17, www.lesambassadeurs.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

www.christ-swiss.ch

WELCOME TO SWITZERLAND’S FIRST DESTINATION FOR WATCHES AND JEWELRY

The Kurz boutique on Bahnhofstrasse and its charming carillon. PD

PARTIME This Swiss designer watch simultaneously shows the time of day and how much of the day is left. The blue area within a circle represents the amount of time still remaining in the day, while a white area gradually eats into the blue. Find it at Teddy’s Souvenir Shop and the retailers indicated on page 46, order it in the webshop, or ask for an express delivery to your hotel.QG‑13, Teddy’s Souvenir Shop, Limmatquai 34, tel. (+41) 43 422 00 11, www.partimewatch.com. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

with a selection of more than 50 exclusive brands.

ZEIT MEISTER This boutique right at Stauffacher is a specialist for watches (e.g. Rado, Tag Heuer, Mido) and jewellery, be it custommade in their studio or brands like Pera and Tomas Sabo. QD‑12, Badenerstrasse 16 - 18, 8Staufacher, tel. (+41) 44 242 30 30, www.zeit-meister.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

February – March 2019 45

A. Lange & Söhne Audemars Piguet Balmain Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Beyer Blancpain Breguet Breitling Bulgari Cartier Certina Charriol Chopard Corum De Grisogono Ebel Eterna Franck Muller Girard Perregaux Hublot IWC Schaffhausen Jaquet Droz Jaeger-LeCoultre Jowissa Longines Louis Erard Maurice Lacroix Mido Mondaine Movado Nomos Glashütte Omega Oris Parmigiani Fleurier Patek Philippe Piaget Quinting Rado Raymond Weil Rolex Swatch Swiss Military TAG Heuer Tiffany Tissot Ulysse Nardin Urwerk Victorinox Swiss Army Vulcain Wenger Zenith Zurich Partime

La Serlas, Bahnhofstrasse 25

Kurz, Bahnhofstrasse 80

IWC Schaffhausen, Bahnhofstrasse 61

Heinicke, Limmatquai 32

Christ at Jelmoli, Seidengasse 1

Gübelin, Bahnhofstrasse 36

Christ, Bahnhofstrasse 78

Gellner & Friends, Strehlgasse 27

Chopard Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 40

Galli, Theaterstrasse 16

Central Jewellery, Limmatquai 140

Feist Daniel, Seefeldstrassse 45

Cartier Joailliers, Bahnhofstrasse 47

Dolmetsch, Limmatquai 126

Bulgari, Bahnhofstrasse 25

Christian Uhren Schmuck, Limmatplatz 1

Breguet, Bahnhofstrasse 31

Bucherer, Bahnhofstrasse 50

Airbijoux, Bahnhofstrasse 1

Beyer, Bahnhofstrasse 31

Affolter Max, Limmatquai 82

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Rolex Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 17

Swatch Store, Bahnhofstrasse 52

Tiffany & Co, Bahnhofstrasse 14

Tissot Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 94

Victorinox Flagship Store, Rennweg 58

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Leisure There are plenty of things to do in and around Zurich. Show your friends and colleagues who’s boss with a competitive game of laser tag or show off your smarts in an escape room. For winter activities check our chapter Winter Joys on p. 52.

ANIMAL PARKS ZURICH ZOO Zurich Zoo is located on Zürichberg high above the city. The pride of this zoological garden, which was opened in 1929, is the Masoala Rainforest hall, simulating the ecosystem in the Masoala National Park in Madagascar across some 10,000m². Animals like lemurs or giant tortoises can move freely around in the hall as you watch and walk by on a path through the forest. Keep your eyes peeled, a chameleon might be sitting on a branch right next to you. But the rainforest is not the only thing worth seeing. Since 1992 Zurich Zoo has gradually been changing the traditionalstyle enclosures into whole ecosystems which better meet the animals’ needs. An Indian dry forest for the lions, a Eurasian wetland, Himalayan mountains (snow leopards, wolves, a Siberian tiger) and African mountains (gelada monkeys, Nubian ibex) have already been opened, the latest being the all-new 11,000m² elephant park.QL‑10, Zürichbergstrasse 221, 8Zoo, tel. (+41) 848 96 69 83, www.zoo.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Nov - Feb open 09:00 - 17:00. Masoala hall opens all year at 10:00. Admission 26/21(16 - 20 years)/13Sfr, free for kids up to 5 years.

FUN & GAMES FOXTRAIL - SCAVENGER HUNT Foxtrail has developed scavenger hunts in Zurich. It offers eight itineraries in English, one of them at the main train station, which might be preferable when it’s cold and wet outside. Working as a team (2 - 7 people), Zurich becomes your playground. To stay on the trail of the fox, you need to break codes and find hidden messages together. You can book your starting time on its website.Qtel. (+41) 41 329 80 00, www.foxtrail.ch. LASER ARENA & PAINTBALL Yay! Zurich finally has laser tag! Hide behind obstacles on different floors and tag as many of your opponents with

paintball-arena.ch

Laser Arena: there’s nothing more fun than a laser gun.

your laser gun as possible to score points. But watch out, or you might get tagged yourself. That said, it’s worth mentioning that this is a completely harmless game, so no protective gear is required. All you need is a laser gun and a sensor on your chest to play. The Laser Arena is a big space that can accommodate up to 24 players and you can play with two big teams or split up into smaller groups. A game lasts 12 minutes and the person or team with the highest score wins. Make a reservation on its website or just drop by to have some great laser fun with friends, family or colleagues. They also run a paintball arena a 40-minutes drive from Zurich (www.paintball-arena.ch).QD‑15, Brandschenkestrasse 178, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 848 31 23 12, www.laser-arena.ch. Open Wed 14:00 - 22:00, Thu 18:00 - 22:00, Fri 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. One 12-minute game costs 15Sfr for adults and 12Sfr for children under 16 years. Book more than two games and get a discount. ZURICHESCAPE In an escpae room you and your team are locked in a room and have 60 minutes to reach the exit. You achieve this by solving puzzles, finding hidden objects and working together as a team. At ZurichEscape you can choose between three different rooms, each with its own theme. In addition to this, it also offers both indoor and outdoor escape missions. QD‑11, Zeughausstrasse 51, 8Sihlpost/Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 43 317 19 19, www.zurichescape.ch. Games from 10:00 - 20:00. Prices start at 90Sfr.

laser-arena.ch

OBERER ZÜRICHSEE | ZÜRICH CITY | LUZERN | BASEL | BERN 48 Zurich In Your Pocket

zurich.inyourpocket.com

Zurich Nord The part of the city behind the two hills Käferberg and Zürichberg is commonly referred to as Zürich Nord. The districts 7, 11 and 12 used to be independent villages and merged with the city in 1934. Close to the airport they are now home to many international companies, the trade fair, some hotels and more and more restaurants and bars. You definitely don’t have to go to the city centre to have a good night out.

RESTAURANTS ASIAWAY This place is not about atmosphere - it’s about great Asian food. Order your favourite Vietnamese dishes and more (fried noodles, generous soups, curries, crispy duck and the likes) and you can watch the all-Vietnamese kitchen staff prepare your dishes. Wash down the hot meals with one of the Asian beers available and spoil yourself with a surprising dessert afterwards.QH‑2, Schwamendingenstrasse 10, 8Salersteig, tel. (+41) 44 310 80 08, www.asiaway.ch. Open 11:00 -14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, closed Sun. €. AB

8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 43 288 94 45, www.perron9.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:30, closed Mon, Sun, bistro Gleis 9 open daily 10:00 - 24:00. €€. AB TIBITS OERLIKON The bounteous vegetarian buffet is also the focal point of the tibits branch in Zurich Nord. Choose from around 40 homemade salads, hot daily specials, soups, sandwiches and sweets. Take it from us, it’s more than just tasty and many of the dishes are actually not just vegetarian, but vegan. The colourful wallpaper and the modern designer lamps make for the typical airy urban tibits atmosphere. A kids’ corner is available in the basement and, yes, all the food can be ordered as takeaway.QH‑1, Tramstrasse 2, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 317 25 55, www.tibits.ch. Open 07:30 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. €. AB TRES AMIGOS The seven exisiting Tres Amigos restaurants prove the success of the simple concept: tasty Texmex food and drinks in a colorful Mexican setting including the compulsory sombrero on the wall. The branch in Zurich Nord is much the same: nachos, enchilladas, fajitas, tacos - it’s all there for you. As well as meat like spare ribs or beef fillet skewers and sea food like shrimps.QG‑1, Querstrasse 16, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 311 82 52, www.tresamigos.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Wed 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:30 - 23:00, kitchen open all day until 22:30, Fri & Sat 23:30. €€. AB

NIGHTLIFE Everybody loves the vegetarian buffet at tibits.

KAI Close to the Oerlikon train station, the Kai is a classic sushi bar with a modern and stylish decor complete with conveyor belt: sit at the counter and grab one of the maki, nigiri or uramaki running by. Or simply ask the chef on the other side to make your favourite creation. There are tables as well and a lot more than just sushi: menu deals, fried noodles, meat... Saturday & Sunday night there is all you can eat sushi for 69Sfr - book seats in advance.QEllen-WidmannWeg 2, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 43 538 42 47, www.kaisushi.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 17:30 - 23:00, kitchen open until 22:00. €€. AB PERRON 9 The culinary concept at Perron 9 is focussed on high quality meat - like entrecôte or lamb chops from the charcoal grill and veals shoulder and prok belly from the BBK-smoker. You’ll also find fish or vegetarian dishes on the menu. The industrial-age rooms with the cast-iron pillars make for a pleasing surrounding and there is a bar and bistrot too.QG‑1, Affolternstr. 52, facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

COOPER’S PUB Located just next to Oerlikon train station (and in walking distance of the Swissôtel and the Courtyard Marriott), the Cooper’s with its whiskey barrels and dark wooden floor and panels, brings an Irish pub feel to this part of town. They of course have Murphy’s Red and Guinness on tap, all the sports on TV and serve really affordable burgers. There are also fish & chips, pies and salads on the menu. Occasionally concerts. Cheers!QH‑1, Schaffhauserstrasse 359, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 76 261 00 30, www.coopers-pub.ch. Open 15:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. AK JAIME EL BARCO The Jaime is a bar with a South American touch in Zurich Nord, just next to the Courtyard Marriott. Hot panini for a snack, a frozen daiquiri or a margarita from the cocktail menu or a beer will cheer you up after a hard day of walking or working. There is table football and darts - quite some entertainment in this part of the city.QOtto-Schütz-Weg 5, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 310 21 70, www.jaime.ch. Open 09:00 14:00, 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. E February – March 2019 49

Zurich for kids Are we there yet?! Children have their own idea of how to have a good time and stylish bars or Gothic cathedrals may not exactly do the trick. But no fear, there’s plenty to do with children in Zurich. Find more suggestions on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

LEISURE, PARKS & SPORTS Little guests need room to jump and run. Not to mention swim, skate or canoe. The most central playground is next to Lindenhof (p. 28, E-3) and there is a large one next to the Chinese garden. The Gemeinschaftszentren (or GZ), community centres of the city also have good playgrounds.

computer game. Afterwards you can fortify yourself up in the café and, of course, buy all of the Frey delicacies at the shop. This pleasant day trip, which isn’t just for chocolate connoisseurs, is reachable in only 39 minutes from Zurich (take the train to Aarau, then bus Nº1 to the Industrie stop in Buchs). Admission is free with the Swiss Travel Pass. QBresteneggstrasse 4, Buchs, tel. (+41) 62 836 24 25, www.chocolatfrey.ch/visitor-centre. Open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Mon. Admission 12/10/6Sfr, family ticket incl. up to 5 kids (6-16 years) 30/18Sfr, free with the Swiss Travel Pass. Free admission to the café with a playground and shop.

CHOCOLAT FREY VISITOR CENTRE You and your kids can get to know how chocolate is made in a playful way at the visitor centre of Chocolat Frey, Switzerland’s biggest chocolate producer. On the expert trail some of Frey’s chocolate makers will explain and demonstrate the production of those sweet delicacies. And yes, you and your kids will be able to taste some, be they pieces straight from the production line or from the two chocolate fountains. You can watch Röbi the Robot pack chocolates or dress up as a cocoa bean and make funny photos to surprise your friends with. You can also identify different smells in the Aroma Lab or play a giant Dressing up as a cocoa bean looks like fun.

SHOPS

Franz Carl Weber

ALKENA The small shop near Bellevue has a good selection of high-quality, cheerful children’s clothes made of organic textiles. The brand Alkena specialises in organic silk which is produced in its own silk farm in China. They also sell women’s clothes, so mum might find something she likes too.QH‑14, Stadelhoferstrasse 33, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 261 66 00, www.alkena.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. FRANZ CARL WEBER This is the toy shop to visit in the city centre conveniently located right next to the main station. See also p. 42.QF‑12, Bahnhofplatz 9, 8Bahnhofplatz/ HB, tel. (+41) 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. 50 Zurich In Your Pocket

Chocolat Frey

SKATING RINK HEURIED Enjoy ice skating an the all new Heuried sports centre on two large rinks (one indoors, though usually not available to the public) close to the tram stop Heuried (N°9 & 14 direction Triemli/Heuried). You can also play a game of ice hockey - just for fun - on the following days: Thu 20:15 - 22:00, Fri 20:00 - 22:00, Sun 18:00- 19:45. There is a restaurant and skate rental on site.QWasserschöpfi 71, 8Heuried, tel. (+41) 44 455 51 61. Mon 09:00 - 16:00, Tue 09:00 - 19:00, Wed 09:00 - 22:00, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:30, 20:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Open until March 10, 2019. Admission 8/6/4Sfr, rental skates 6Sfr. SWIMMING BATHS OERLIKON (HALLENBAD) Zurich’s biggest indoor swimming baths and the best with children. There’s a 25-metre pool for non-swimmers, a children’s pool with water toys, a 50-metre pool for good swimmers and a diving pool. Get there on tram N°11 (plus a good 5 minutes walk) or buses N°63 or N°94. QJ‑1, Wallisellenstrasse 100, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, tel. (+41) 44 315 67 77, www.sportamt.ch/schwimmen. Open 06:00 - 22:00, Mon, Tue, Thu 06:00 - 20:00. Admission 8/6/4Sfr, under 6 years free.

MUSEUMS MÜHLERAMA Everything you ever wanted to know about your daily bread and nutrition in general. This former-mill-becomemuseum has a whole lot to say about growing wheat, zurich.inyourpocket.com

Zurich for kids milling flour and baking bread. The industrial mill is still functional and is put into action every day at 15:00 by a miller on site. With lots of hands-on exhibits, this is a good place to go with children (age 5+) and explanations are available in English. There are baking lessons every last Saturday of the month and each Wednesday evening you can bake your own bread (bring your dough or buy ingredients in the museum shop). In the shop you can buy different kinds of flour, books, snacks and more. Take tram N°2 or 4 in the direction of Tiefenbrunnen.QSeefeldstrasse 231, 8Tiefenbrunnen, tel. (+41) 44 422 76 60, www.muehlerama.ch. Open 14:00 - 18:00, Wed 14:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00, closed Mon. Admission 15/9Sfr. ZOOLOGICAL AND PALEONTOLOGICAL MUSEUMS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ZURICH A giant sloth waits just beyond the entrance here, but luckily it’s only a reconstruction, so you can even stroke it. Animals large and small are displayed stuffed or as skeletons: jaguars, kangaroos, platypuses, giant crabs. You’ll be amazed what exists in the animal kingdom. Insects can be viewed under a microscope, and your children and you can listen to the songs of 280 different birds, and see them as well. The paleontological section features marine dinosaurs from when Switzerland was covered by an ocean, as well as giant ammonite fossils, land dinosaurs like triceratops and skeletons of woolly mammoths. No café, but a rest area where you can eat your own food.QH‑11, Karl Schmid-Strasse 4, 8ETH/ Universitätsspital, tel. (+41) 44 634 38 38, www.zm.uzh.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Mon. Admission free.

Long in the tooth? They take care of their mammoths here.

Michèle Amacker

RESTAURANTS & CAFÉS KAFI FÜR DICH This café next to the park Bäckeranlage has a children’s corner where your young ones can paint the walls with chalk or play with one of the many toys while you sit and have a coffee or a drink. On weekends the place is so popular with parents you have to weave your way through the many push chairs standing around. Well worth a visit even without your kids.QC‑11, Stauffacherstrasse 141, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 317 91 60, www.fuerdich.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

SWEET CHOCOLATE MOMENTS CHOCOLAT FREY VISITOR CENTRE

The Chocolat Frey visitor centre just 39 minutes from Zurich central station by public transport

FREE ENTR Y WITH SW ISS TRAVEL PA SS

Free entry to the Café Frey with its chocolate factory playground and to the Boutique Frey Chocolat Frey Visitor Centre Bresteneggstrasse 4 | CH-5033 Buchs bei Aarau Tel. 0041 (0) 62 836 24 25, besucherzentrum@chocolatfrey.ch www.chocolatfrey.ch

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

February – March 2019 51

Winter joys In winter, Zurich is often covered by a thick layer of high-altitude fog. That doesn’t sound very pleasant, but in fact fog is way better than clouds in Switzerland as all you have to do in this case to get some sun is to climb a nearby mountain. Or even better: ski it. There are many resorts so close to Zurich that it’s worth going to one just for the day. These resorts listed here open as soon as there is enough snow, usually by mid-December. Always check the conditions before you leave. But of course the city offers some winter fun like ice skating and thermal baths too - see our suggestions below.

THERMAL BATHS & HAMMAMS

Stadtbad Hammam & Spa

STADTBAD HAMMAM & SPA This Turkish stlye steam bath in the cellars of the Volkshaus boasts some arty concrete architecture. But you come here to relax, right? In keeping with oriental traditions there is a hot stone in the centre of the open space to relax on - niches to wash and rub your skin, a sauna, a footbath, and more are grouped around it. Remember that in Switzerland you usually use saunas sans clothing and naked areas for both sexes are common.QD‑11, Stauffacherstr. 60, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 241 04 27, www.stadtbadzuerich.ch. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 14:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 -22:00, Wed women only. Sat 10:00 - 14:00 for kids. In spring (starting March 18) with sunny weather open only 15:00 - 23:00. Check its website. Admission hammam 48Sfr, sauna 32Sfr. THERMALBAD & SPA ZÜRICH Zurich’s only thermal bath is located in the buildings that once were home to the brewery Hürlimann in Zurich Enge using the spring water that was once sold for drinking as Aqui. There are different pools, some of them in the old stone cellars as well as an outdoor area on the rooftop open all year, with a view over the city and towards the Alps. Besides whirlpools, massage jets and resting zones there is a Irish-Roman Spa area (extra fee applies).QC‑15, Brandschenkestrasse 150,8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 205 96 50, www.thermalbad -zuerich.ch. Open 09:00 - 22:00. 36/18/10Sfr. 52 Zurich In Your Pocket

WINTER ACTIVITIES IN THE CITY FONDUE CRUISE Every Tuesday and Thursday evening at 19:15 the Fondue Ship sets off for a 2.5 hour cruise on Lake Zurich. On Tuesday the Swiss national dish cheese fondue is served, on Thursday fondue chinoise (meat) is on the menu. Dinner while cruising the lake with a view of Zurich by night - not bad at all.QF‑14, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 487 13 33, www.zsg.ch. Starts Tue and Thu 19:15 at Bürkliplatz, book in advance by phone. Runs Oct 2 - March 26, 2019. Tickets 55/27.50 (cheese), 80/40Sfr (meat). Fondue included, drinks and side dishes extra. FONDUE TRAM A Swiss fondue (melted cheese in a pot) including an evening city tour - that’s what you get in the decorated fondue tram. Board the tram at Bellevue and enjoy your dinner during a two-hour trip through the city - wherever the tram rails lead. The menu includes a welcome drink, a starter plate with dried meat from the Grison Alps, and as much fondue as you like. Have a glass of white wine with it - or two. You can clean the steamed-up windows with a special wiper so you can enjoy the sightseeing part too. Book your table in advance online, by phone or at the VBZ ticketerias, the Zurich public transport ticket shops.QG‑14, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 848 80 18 80, www.fonduetram.ch. Runs until March 2. Starts Mon Sat 17:30 & 20:15, on Sun 16:30 & 19:15. Tickets 95/48Sfr (children up to 12 years), drinks extra.

Ice sakting at Dolder is synonymous with winter fun. Stefan Schmidlin

SKATING RINK DOLDER (KUNSTEISBAHN) Surrounded by woods up above Zurich the Dolder outdoor skating rink is a great little getaway. Getting there is a little adventure too. Take tram N°3, 8 or 15 to Römerhof and then get the little red Dolderbahn, a cogwheel railway, up to the last station (6 min). Self-service restaurant on site. QAdlisbergstrasse 36, 8Römerhof, tel. (+41) 44 267 70 80, www.doldereisbahn.ch. Open until March 10, 2019, 09:00 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 17:45. The rink is closed on Wed from 17:30 to 19:15. Admission: children 4-16 years: 4Sfr, 17-20 years: 6Sfr, adults: 8Sfr. If you just want to watch you‘ll have to pay 2Sfr. Renting a pair of ice skates: 8Sfr. Family ticket including skates rental: 40Sfr. zurich.inyourpocket.com

Winter joys MOUNTAINS & SKI RESORTS BRAUNWALD The small mountain village Braunwald has no car traffic and is only accessible by a cable railway from Linthal (Braunwaldbahn). Public transport gets you there in just under two hours. There are some skilifts suitable for beginners and intermediate skiers and families. On a sunny day it’s lovely for a walk and a cup of hot tea in the fresh air. QBraunwald, tel. (+41) 55 653 65 65, www.braunwald.ch. Daypass 48/36/24Sfr. ELM In a little less than two hours, public transport gets you to Elm, deep in the mountains of the canton Glarus. Six lifts and more than 40 kilometres of slopes await you there, as well as a kids zone, a sledge run and a snowpark. Elm is also known as a good spot for freeriding. And it’s the home of the probably most famous Swiss ski star of all times, Vreni Schneider. She collected 3 Olympic gold medals in the 80s and 90s. Nowadays she runs a skiing school in Elm, so watch out, she might swing down the hill just in front of you. QElm, tel. (+41) 55 642 61 61, www.sportbahnenelm.ch. Daypass 48/36/24Sfr. FLUMSERBERG 65 kilometres of slopes and 18 lifts await you in Flumserberg, the biggest resort between Zurich and the Grison Alps in eastern Switzerland. After a 60-minute train ride to Unterterzen (change in Ziegelbrücke), a cable car takes you up to Tannenboden, from where you have access to the ski resort. Slopes are generally wide and not too steep - but on the highest mountain Leist (2,200m above sea level) even skilled skiers will find what they are looking for. There are three snowparks, some cross-country ski runs and a sledge run too. Tannenboden has rental shops and different winter trekking paths if you prefer a walk in the snow to some action on the slopes.QFlumserberg, tel. (+41) 81 720 15 15, www.flumserberg.ch. Day pass 58/38/29Sfr, 4-7Sfr surcharge at weekends. HOCH-YBRIG Accessible by car in an hour and by public transport in 90 minutes (change train at Wädenswil and to a bus in Einsiedeln), Hoch-Ybrig is one of the favourite day-trip ski destinations for Zurchers. Twelve ski and chair lifts take you up to almost 2,000 metres above sea level. There is a rental shop at the top of the first cable car and a snowpark with many kicks and rails - fun for snowboarders and skiers alike. You can also simply go for a walk in the sun on a prepared path at the top of the cable car.QWaagtalstrasse 127, Unteriberg, tel. (+41) 55 414 60 60, www.hoch-ybrig.ch. Day pass 55/50/30Sfr. STOOS Just 75 minutes from Zurich, the small village of Stoos offers six lifts and stunning views over Lake Lucerne from the top of the Fronalpstock. Stoos is only accessible by an all new cable railway or aerial cable car. From the town of Schwyz take a facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

MOUNTAIN TOURS BEST OF SWITZERLAND TOURS Day trips organised by tour operators are an easy way to explore Switzerland and its gorgeous mountains. Forget the hassle with timetables, itineraries and the like. Just snuggle into your bus seat and let them guide you through the day. Best of Switzerland tours for example offers daily trips from Zurich to Pilatus, Rigi, Titlis and Jungfraujoch. For instance you can take the rotating gondola up to Titlis (more than 3000 metres asl), where an encounter with ice, snow and a glacier await you. They also have a city tour to Luzern. Just check their website for available tours and book up to a day before - online or by phone. The tour busses leave from the Zurich Bus terminal Sihlquai, just next to the Hauptbahnhof (main train station, F-10). Qwww.switzerland-tours.ch, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50. bus to the Schlatti valley station and enjoy the short ride up to the village, where you’ll find several rental shops. This small resort is great for families. If you don’t ski, take a ride in a horse-drawn carriage (contact Suter Transporte, tel. +41 79 455 66 24).QStoos, tel. (+41) 41 818 08 08, www.stoos.ch. Day pass (including feeder cable railway) 50/30Sfr. TITLIS - ENGELBERG Engelberg is the biggest resort in central Switzerland. Its top attraction is Mount Titlis: a rotating gondola takes you up to more than 3,000 metres above sea level. There you get a spectacular view, a glacier and some steep slopes that lead back down to the village of Engelberg, 2,000 metres below. Besides Mount Titlis there are 82 kilometres of slopes suitable for beginners as well as experienced skiers, snow trekking paths and cross country ski runs. Several shops have gear for rent. The train ride from Zurich takes just under two hours (change at Luzern).QPoststrasse 3, Engelberg, tel. (+41) 41 639 50 50, www.titlis.ch. Day pass 65/46/26Sfr.

Stunning! A perfect winter day at Braunwald.

February – March 2019 53

Queer Zurich Zurich is undoubtedly Switzerland’s gay and lesbian capital and is in general quite queer-friendly. What better proof than the re-election of lesbian Corinne Mauch as mayor in spring 2018 (in office since 2009)? Zurich’s vibrant queer scene was one of the driving forces in creating today’s club culture. Of course, some of the queer venues are cool places to hang out even if you’re hetero. Zurich’s queer calendar has several major events, all in spring or summer. For over ten years a Christopher Street Day has been held in June. Called Zurich Pride Festival (www.zurichpridefestival.ch) today, this is a huge event with parties, open-air bars and a colourful parade through the city. In spring, the Pink Apple film festival (April 30 - May 9, 2019, www.pinkapple.ch) shows gay and lesbian films from all over the world and awards a prize to one young director. But the queer scene is also very lively, big events aside. Whether you’re looking for a gay-friendly bar to relax in, gay and lesbian clubbing or venues of a more raunchy variety, you’ll find it in Zurich. Check out the websites we list or just ask around in some of the bars.

PETRA’S TIP TOP BAR Chanson - or what is called schlager in German - is at the top of the menu here. But there’s enough Abba, Boney M and what have you as well. Host Peter is well known - especially for his drag performances. A cosy place for some nostalgic merrymaking.QH‑12, Seilergraben 13, 8Neumarkt, tel. (+41) 44 251 78 20, www.tip-top-bar.ch. Open 18:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:30 - 04:00, closed Mon, Sun. AJ PREDIGERHOF The Predigerhof in the centre of the Niederdorf area is a sure bet, open 365 days a year until two in the morning. Order one of their sandwiches and a beer - or step it up a little and choose one of their champagnes. Maybe Lotti, the famed landlady, will join you. You can ask the Thai and Swiss staff for tips for gay events - but maybe you’ll just want to stay here, if they’re showing a game of soccer or the Eurovision song contest.QG‑12, Mühlegasse 15, 8Rudolf-Brun Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 251 29 85, www.predigerhof.ch. Open 14:00 - 02:00. AJ

CLUBS

Love is celebrated at the Zurich Pride Festival.

Zurich Tourism

CAFÉS & BARS DANIEL H. Daniel H. is a low-key star in Zurich’s gay bar scene. With no exuberant glamour and just the occasional party, Daniel H. is very relaxed and heterofriendly. The finger food on offer is also quite a treat. Good place to pick up flyers on gay parties and events in Zurich, they also sell tickets for some events.QD‑11, Müllerstrasse 51, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 241 41 78, www.danielh.ch. Open 17:00 24:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. AK HELDENBAR Here you’re off the beaten track and on the territory of the non-commercial gay scene. The Heldenbar (hero’s bar) which only comes alive on Wednesdays is a purely non-profit affair. Sometimes the DJs are professional, sometimes totally amateur, the style of music changes from week to week. If you don’t want to dance, take up a table-football challenge. QD‑8, Provitreff, Sihlquai 240, 8Quellenstrasse, www .heldenbar.ch.Open Wed 20:00 - 01:00. No admission. 54 Zurich In Your Pocket

HEAVEN The Heaven is a cosy queer club featuring music from charts and house to more underground tastes like deep house.QG‑12, Spitalgasse 5, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, www.heavenclub.ch. Open Fri & Sat 23:00 - 06:00. AJ RAGE Rage is a factory of a cruising club with all the works darkrooms, slings, tubs and, of course, bars. Sector C is fetish pure, with a strict dresscode and changing themes. Only men are admitted.QWagistrasse 13, Schlieren, www.rage.ch. Thu 18:00 - 24:00, Fri 22:00 - 04:00, Sat 22:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. Admission 8-20Sfr. AX

RESOURCES GAYMEBOYS.COM ONLINE MAGAZINE This is a Zurich-centred gay online community with English-language content. There’s a chat area, personals and a listing of up-coming events and info on gay venues. It’s free, for some services you have to register.Qwww.gaymeboys.com. LGBT+ HELPLINE LGBT+ Helpline offers telephone counselling and operates as a registration office for homophobic violence. Counselling for non-emergency matters is available Mon - Thu 19:00 - 21:00. In case of homophobic violence you can call 24hrs to report the incident, or report the incident online. Counselling is in German but many counsellors speak at least some English. It’s free to call. The number is (+41) 800 133 133.Qtel. (+41) 800 133 133, www.lgbt-helpline.ch. zurich.inyourpocket.com

Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

H Conference facilities

R Internet in room U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre

L Parking on site

K Restaurant

8 Nearest tram station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-fi connection

J City centre location

ZURICH MARRIOTT HOTEL The views from the rooms in the main tower of the Zürich Marriott Hotel just next to the main train station are breathtaking. The old town, the river, the lake, it’s all there just outside your window. The rooms with their light walls and dark wood furniture are modern and elegant and come with quite some technology. If you would like more space or an additional seating area, upgrade your room. There is of course a gym with sauna and solarium. The inhouse bar & lounge 42, the Swiss restaurant eCHo and the Thai restaurant White Elephant make for a real first class experience. Event facilities for up to 600 persons available. QF‑9, Neumühlequai 42, 8Beckenhof, tel. (+41) 44 360 70 70, www.zurichmarriott.com. 264 rooms. APULJ6WKHDF hhhhh

UPMARKET Zurich is a business destination first and foremost - and hotel rates reflect that. From Friday night to Monday morning, prices often drop sharply. Why not take advantage of this and spend a weekend in one of the many four- and five-star hotels in the city? Despite this, accommodation in Zurich remains rather pricey and real budget accommodation is rare. But nevertheless there is something for any taste and almost any budget. In Switzerland hotels are officially categorized with stars from one to five. The categorization is done by hotelleriesuisse, the national hoteliers association. A hotel can also receive the supplement ‘superior’, indicating a higher level of service and quality. We list the hotels according to their official classification in the following categories: Cream of the Crop*****, Upmarket****, Midrange*** and Budget (0 to **). Outside this classification we list pensions - usually small and with less services than a hotel - and some of the hostels in town. Find more hotels on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

FIFA HOTEL ASCOT The Ascot opened in 1955 and was completely refurbished in 2010. The dark wooden furnishing is now the hallmark of the rooms which feature large beds, an armchair, an espresso machine, a flat-screen TV and free internet access. South facing rooms have balconies. The updated bathrooms are styled in vivid colours and have a bathtub. Both the lake and Bahnhofstrasse are just a few minutes away. There are direct trains to the airport from the train station Zurich Enge just across the square. Start your evening at the very British Turf Bar on the ground floor or enjoy steaks and seafood in the restaurant Ascot.QE‑15, Tessinerplatz 9, 8Bahnhof Enge, tel. (+41) 44 208 14 14, www.ascot.ch. 74 rooms. APLJ6WKH hhhh

CREAM OF THE CROP THE DOLDER GRAND Set high above the city, the five-star superior Dolder Grand is probably the city’s most exclusive hotel. In 2008 British architect Norman Foster added two meandering wings to the fairy-tale-castle main building from 1899 with its turrets and balconies. The result is an amazing mix of modernity and tradition. And no matter in which part of the hotel you book your room, the comfort and the amenities offered are uncountable. Either modern design and generous floor-to-ceiling windows in the new wings or the sense of history in the main building. The sumptuous 4,000sqm in-house spa, the exquisite ballroom and art from Warhol to Dalì are just some of the elements that make this a truly extraordinary hotel. QKurhausstrasse 65, 8Römerhof, tel. (+41) 44 456 60 00, www.thedoldergrand.com. 175 rooms. APU LR6WKHCDF hhhhh facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

The castle-like Dolder Grand, a winter beauty.

GREULICH The Greulich offers spacious rooms and suites in the main building or loft-like ones in the two modernistic concrete constructions in the courtyard. The superior rooms have an additional living area. 150 birch trees adorn the courtyard like a land-art sculpture and make the garden of this hotel a quite inspiring place. Located close to Langstrasse district, it’s great for exploring urban Zurich.QB‑11, HermanGreulich-Strasse 56, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 43 243 42 43, www.greulich.ch. 28 rooms. AXULR6 WKH hhhh February – March 2019 55

Hotels BUDGET HOTELS HOTTINGEN This two-star superior hotel was completely refurbished in 2016 and offers functional, well designed rooms with wooden floors and bright colours. The high ceilings make for a comfortable, spacious room feeling. Besides single and double rooms there are rooms for three or even four guests. Most rooms have private bathrooms with showers, all of them feature a flatscreen TV. There is a fully equipped small kitchen on every floor which you can use to prepare a meal or tea and coffee. The old town and the lake are in walking distance (10 15 minutes), tram stop just next to the hotel.QI‑13, Hottingerstrasse 31, 8Hottingerplatz, tel. (+41) 44 256 19 19, www.hotelhottingen.ch. 32 rooms. AULJ6W hh PALAIS KRAFT The Palais Kraft is one of the more unusual places to stay in Zurich. Located on Zürichberg, Zurich’s rather exclusive residential area, this luxurious private residence offers large studio rooms with high ceilings for long and short term stays as well as serviced apartments with 1 to 3 bedrooms. All studio rooms have wooden floors, a terrace, a flat-screen TV and a kitchenette with a microwave and fridge. With just a small number of rooms and apartments, the Kraft is able to provide a private and personal atmosphere. The tram

gets you to the city centre in less than 15 minutes, the stop is just two minutes away. Air-conditioning available. QJ‑11, Kraftstrasse 33, 8Toblerplatz, tel. (+41) 44 388 84 85, www.palaiskraft.com. APURWD SHERATON ZURICH NEUES SCHLOSS HOTEL This hotel is located in a landmark building in Zurich’s financial district. The rooms are decorated in tasteful yellow and brown hues and sport arty photos of Zurich. A kettle, a safe, a minibar and an iron and board are provided. The lake and the old town are both only a five-minute walk away, so the Sheraton Neues Schloss is not only a good choice for your business stay but for a weekend trip as well. On the top floor there are five suites, all with balconies.QF‑14, Stockerstrasse 17, 8Stockerstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 286 94 00, www.sheratonneuesschloss.ch. 60 rooms. AP ULJR6WKH hhhh STEIGENBERGER HOTEL BELLERIVE AU LAC The Steigenberger is a four-star superior hotel situated directly on the lake, only a few tramstops from Bahnhofstrasse. Swiss designer Tilla Theus has carefully restored the historic hotel, mixing art deco elements like lush leather-padded walls and delicate, geometric wooden side-boards with discrete contemporary styling, such as in the bathrooms finished in rock. A small spa area offers sauna and solarium for your recreation. The elegant in-house restaurant offers views of the lake and a range of classy meat and fish dishes, while the gentlemen’s club atmosphere

Eating with all senses THE VBZ GOURMET LINE On the VBZ gourmet line, we‘ll be serving you the most interesting views of Zurich in the rolling restaurant, a vintage tram. Please have a seat: www.vbz.ch/yummytram

genusslinie englisch 124 x 90mm.indd 56 Zurich In Your Pocket

24.01.2018 16:56:30 zurich.inyourpocket.com

Inserat-ZH-Pocket-60x185-V3_Layout 1 14.03.18 15:1

Hotels

of the bar makes it a good place to wind down your day. QH‑15, Utoquai 47, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 254 40 00, www.zuerich.steigenberger.ch. 51 rooms. APULJR6WKHD F hhhh

palais kraft Residential Club

SWISSÔTEL ZÜRICH Situated in Zurich Nord, the four-star superior Swissôtel tower boasts a spa and fitness (including an infinity pool) on the 32nd floor, remarkable views towards mount Uetliberg and the Alps from the rooms and the proximity to the exhibition centre and the airport. The rooms come in five different categories, all modern in bright and light brownish and beige colours. The city centre is a 7-minute train ride away and the train station is just across the road from the entrance. QG‑1, Schulstrasse 44, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 317 31 11, www.swissotel.com/zurich. 347 rooms. APTUBLR6WKHCDF hhhh

MID-RANGE ADLER This charming three-star hotel is situated in the middle of Niederdorf, the restaurant district of the old town. Soundproof windows make sure you get only the advantages of the location. In each room local artist Heinz Blum has painted a view of the old town on the wall. The mini bars are cooled ecologically and there is a ventilation system instead of air-conditioning. Cheese restaurant on the ground floor.QG‑12, Rosengasse 10, Am Hirschenplatz, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 266 96 96, www.hotel-adler.ch. 52 rooms. AJ6WKH hhh CITY The City is a central choice, with Bahnhofstrasse and the old town in walking distance. It was completely refurbished in 2013 by Dyer-Smith | Frey, so each room now has an individual design with classic, powerful colours, some with carpets, some with parquet flooring. All have a desk and an espresso machine and a bathroom with fancy LEDs around the mirrors, so you can admire yourself in the right light. Small rooftop terrace for your coffee break.QF‑12, Löwenstrasse 34, 8Löwenplatz, tel. (+41) 44 217 17 17, www.hotelcity.ch. 60 rooms. APJR6WKH hhh

YOUR PRIVATE APARTMENT 30-200 SQM FOR SHORT & LONG STAYS FRIENDLY ENGLISH SPEAKING STAFF CHILDREN & PETS WELCOME

HOSTELS YOUTH HOSTEL This modern youth hostel has four- and six-bed rooms with bunk beds and shared showers and toilets. All rooms have a small vestibule where lockers and the washbasin are located - so latecomers don‘t wake up the rest. There are also private doubles and four-bed rooms with en-suite bathrooms. 24 hours reception and cheap meals (20Sfr incl. soft drink). It‘s just a five-minute walk to the lake and 15 min by tram to the centre.QMutschellenstrasse 114, 8Morgental, tel. (+41) 43 399 78 00, www.youthhostel.ch/zurich. 76 rooms. AUWKH facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

PLEASE VISIT OUR WEBSITE WWW.PALAISKRAFT.COM February – March 2019 57

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6-10

Zähringerstr.

Rosenhof Rosenhofmarkt

Zoological and Paleontological Museums

Predigerkirche latz erp dig e r P

Rathaus

1 2-8-9-

ri Cla

. rstr nfe

tr. ders Flie

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Auf der Mauer

. t al g Spi Hirschenplatz

Roseng.

Kappelerhof

tr. hof s

Bahn

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r. nst ove eth Be

r. rst cke Sto

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Kantonalbank

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r. gst öni eik r D

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pl at z

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Rudolf-Brun-Br. Rudolf-Brun-Brücke Preye rg. Baderg.

e Wo h l l

August iner g. Augustinerkirche

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Ba st ei

s usiu Cla

ng.

r. st er

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g. una or t Toy MuseumF Lindenhof lg. tte Ku

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Ethnographic Museum

Am Rank

l ühGiacometti dm murals er W

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Arthouse Alba

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Observatory Urania Oetenbachg.

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2-9

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Alter Botanischer Garten

Central

4-6-7-10-14

Rennweg

na g.

Nü

Sihlstr.

Manor Seide

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Bahnhofbr. 3-

ng.

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Bahnhofstr./HB

tr. ias Jelmoli

Sihl stra sse

h Ba h n

Sch ütze

Sc hw eize Löwenplatz rg. Uste ristr Globus . Migros City Löwenplatz

na . An St

Bah nho fpla tz

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ICZ Synagoge

7-15

Ge ss 3-1 ner Sihlpost / HB 4 br.

Capitol

Zürich Hauptbahnhof Bahnhofquai/HB

Bahnhofpl./HB

gstr. Weinber

. str är

ili t M

er st r.

. fenbachstr

Pos tbr.

Haldenegg

. bstr hfar

Europaallee Passage

. hebr Walc

ms tr.

p Stam

Eur op aal le

Mu seu

Liebfrauen

H oc

National Museum

4 -1 3 - 17

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Zo llb r.

Stampfenbachpl. Haldenegg ai lequ müh Neu

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str.

200

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14 11 -

100

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Bus Terminal

Scale 1:8 800 1 cm = 88 m

7-15

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ZURICH CENTRE

Culmannst r.

Index 4Leoni Firenze 16 16tons 36 Adler 57 Airbijoux 44 Airside Center at Zurich Airport 38 Alkena 50 Apartment 37 Arc'teryx Zürich 39 Asiaway 49 Atelier bar 23 Babu's Bakery 22 Bachmann - Chocolate World 37 Ban Song Thai 14 Bar 45 25 Bar am Wasser 25 Beetnut 19 Bellevue 26 Benci Brothers 41 Berg und Tal 42 Best of Switzerland Tours 53 Best of Zurich - Zürich City Tour 32 Beyer Watches & Jewellery 44 Blockhus 16 Bogen F 26 Boutique Christian Fischbacher 42 Boutique Roma 37 Brasserie Café de Paris 15 Brasserie Federal 21 Braunwald 53 Burton Store Zürich 40 Café du Bonheur 22 Cartier Boutique 44 Casa Ferlin 17 Chäsalp 16 Chocolat Frey Visitor Centre 50 Chopard Boutique 44 CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 44 City 57 Coco 18 Cooper's Pub 49 Corso 12 Daniel H. 54 Dante 25 Die Zukunft 26 Dolce & Gabbanna 40 Edelweiss Shop 42 eldorado 23 el Lokal 25 Elm 53 Ethnographic Museum 30 Exil 26 Fabric Frontline 42 Fata Morgana 44 fidelio women 38 FIFA Hotel Ascot 55 FIFA World Football Museum 30 Flea Market Kanzlei 31 Flumserberg 53 Fondue cruise 52 Fondue tram 52 Foxtrail - Scavenger Hunt 48 Franz Carl Weber 42, 50 Franziska Luethy Knitwear 34 Fraumünster 27 Freitag 41 Gamper 20

GANT 38 gaymeboys.com online magazine 54 Gellner & Friends 44 Giacometti murals 28 Glatt - Your First Shopping Destination 39 Globus 36 Gran Café Motta 22 Greulich 55 Grieder 38 Grossmünster 27 Gül 21 Harry Winston Zurich 44 Heaven 54 Heldenbar 54 Helsinki 26 Helvetia 19 Helvti Diner Bellevue 15 Hoch-Ybrig 53 Hongxi 15 Honold La Confiserie 36 Hottingen 56 Huusbeiz 20 Im Viadukt 39 Jack Wolfskin Store 40 Jaime El Barco 49 Jelmoli 37 Kafi Dihei 22 Kafi für Dich 51 Kai 49 Kaufleuten 26 Kunsthaus 30 Kurz Jewellery and Watches 45 Lake Zurich Cruises 28 Laser Arena & Paintball 48 Le Dézaley 16 Le Rendez-Vous 16 Les Ambassadeurs 45 Les Halles 17 LGBT+ Helpline 54 Lindenhof 28 Maison Gassmann 38 Maison Manesse 15 Manor 37 MCM Boutique 41 Meng Cutlery 43 messer-scharf 43 Migros Museum für Gegenwartskunst 31 Mohrenkopf 20 Mühlerama 50 Museum für Gestaltung Zürich (Museum of Design) 32 National Museum (Landesmuseum) 31 Neni 18 Nonam 30 Ooki 17 ooo Rooftop 14 Orell Füssli - The Bookshop 36 Ornellaia 15 Osswald 40 Palais Kraft 56 Partime 45 Pelikamo 42 Perron 9 49 Petra's Tip Top Bar 54 Pile of Books 36

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Pinko 40 Predigerhof 54 Pretôt Delikatessen 42 Rage 54 Red Lips 24 RiffRaff 12 rrrevolve fair fashion 38 Sacchi 23 Samigo Amusement 16 Say Chocolate 36 Schickeria 25 Schweizer Finanzmuseum (Finance Museum) 32 Schweizer Heimatwerk 43 Secret Tantra 24 Sheraton Zurich Neues Schloss Hotel 56 Sihlpost 9 Skating rink Dolder 52 Skating rink Heuried 50 Smith and De Luma 19 Spitz 20 Sprüngli Café 22 Stadtbad Hammam & Spa 52 Stall 6 26 Stefi Talman 41 Steigenberger Hotel Bellerive au Lac 56 Stoos 53 St. Peter 29 Straumann Hüppen 34 Swimming baths Oerlikon 50 Swiss Casinos Zürich 23 Swissôtel Zürich 57 TA-BOU beachwear 41 Teddy's Souvenir-Shop 43 The Dolder Grand 55 the Gallery 38 The International 23 Thermalbad & Spa Zürich 52

The Zurich Experience City Tour 32 tibits 19 tibits Oerlikon 49 Titlis - Engelberg 53 Transa 40 Tres Amigos 49 Trois Pommes Store Women 40 Turm 18 Uetliberg 28 Valentino 40 Victorinox Flagship Store 43 Vollenweider Chocolatier Confiseur 36 Walliser Keller 16 Wasserkirche 29 Weinschenke 26 Weisser Wind 21 Widder Bar 25 xess + baba 42 Yooji's Bahnhofstrasse 17 Youth Hostel 57 Zeit Meister 45 Zeughauskeller 21 Zoological and Paleontological Museums of the University of Zurich 51 Zum Grünen Glas 18 Zunfthaus zur Zimmerleuten 18 ZurichEscape 48 zürichfoto.ch 43 Zurich Marriott Hotel 55 Zurich Old Town Walking Tour 32 Zurich Zoo 48 Zürihonig - honey from Zurich 34

FEATURES INDEX Adult entertainment Beer Halls Breakfast Casino Cheese restaurants Domestic Intercity Buses Guild Houses Lake Zurich Language smarts Live music Luxury shopping More for less with the Zürich Card National holidays Supersaver tickets for trains Swiss cuisine Taxi smarts Tax free shopping Tourist Information Useful Zurich apps

24 21 22 23 16 6 18 28 9 26 40 30 8 6 20 5 44 9 8

February – March 2019 61

76 2

76 8

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Leimgrübelstr.

Schönauring

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111 110

K AT ZENSEE

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Flughafen

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w ün

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t r. is

t r. lis

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Bus (Nr. 31–916)

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Bleulerstr. Bergbahn

Epi-Klinik

Bus (nos. 31–916) S-Bahn train

Im Walder

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r. st ch

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66 S1 0

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Bhf. Wollishofen/Werft

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Bahnhof Wollishofen

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33 r.

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Kantonalbank

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Kantonsschule Hottingerplatz

Bergstation Dolderbahn

Titlisstr.

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RudolfBrun-Brücke Kunsthaus

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Stauffacher

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Kirche Fluntern ETH| Universitätsspital

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f ho on hn dik Ba ie W

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Z s t y pr L o r. e s s ch en K Z er Bh a l k ha w in gu f. W b r S u g t e W ch s liie ite ie mi di / di e d ko ko e n n

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Vogelsangstr.

Winkelriedstr.

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Bahnhofquai|HB

Güterbahnhof

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Kronenstr.

Beckenhof

t ih Rü k er sw Ga r ie st du

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15 11 4 0

t r. ls se im

Hadlaubstr.

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Tulpenstr. Friedackerstr.

Hirschwiesenstr.

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200 | 210

Fr ymannstr.

ar 83

444

Berninaplatz

350

S10

Hegianwandweg

Salersteig

Bad Allenmoos

Im Hagacker

Sternen Oerlikon

Regensbergbrücke

Messe|Hallenstadion Dorflinde Herbstweg

Sonneggstr.

Höfliweg

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Wieslergasse

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235|236

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215| 245

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Bahnhof Oerlikon

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e n r. ss sst no f t Ge cha s

781

787

Meierhofplatz Schwer t

Winzerhalde

9 S1

Altes Krematorium

Bhf. Oerlikon Nord

Schumacher weg

2 S1

Bristenstr.

Oerlikerhus Felsenrainstr. Leutschenbach

Neunbrunnen

Winzerstr. Süd

S5 S14

Seidelhof

Glaubtenstr. Süd

Bollingerweg

Lindbergh-Allee Chavez-Allee Wright-Strasse Fernsehstudio

Glattpark Seebacherplatz

Bhf. Seebach

lla

S6 S21

Giebeleichstr. OPFIKON Oberhusen

Lindberghplatz

Himmeri

Bahnhof Affoltern

Staudenbühl

Hungerbergstr.

Seebach

40 Her tensteinstr.

Fronwald

Zehntenhausplatz

Hohenklingensteig

Buhnstr.

Friedhof Schwandenholz

Z ie Ha ho s pl w ie f at lB rd S z Hä er n tu Hö ch us ou r m ng üt z er lli 38 g en M Hö Fr F i S9 ha 32 ic n ie us c h F ö s c h S1 he g g dh er r r l er 5 l 4 o e s S w t r. r b f W ibu e M 16 e ys g L a ili S rg Tr A l t S2 Da s- ck s ng t är be ch o e Am E 1 Pl tr m Ka 83 st -| R r g aue g u s ch t te at . Q r. no Bö ue we m ön nz t w er 37 Ke W Le lle g rt tg eg g a ne m 69 a l f r n e r i 1 n E u ss ai ch pf A p 61 be Hö ns s t Re 3 Hö T H ss id n e I h r e Li t p s r m w ng of W r. . ng ng te bb en m 8 e Ei W i s g p e i g 0 m g S2 g rg te ze er nf l a pk i er pl at ig lle nge t z in an 4 be at 62 ge s Le rs r t g r z W h g st r t e t r. r. P ai R - r. n Gl O W B ke L z f l db g a ose au ip ah K ä ent ege ad ns e t t rt n bt k i nh G en s M r e t f e t r. ng o W er um la r. ns Ge us st ai b ub ns t en f t r. 40 r. st eu ds er t e r. Al N K M Si al m pi g ns t a N o re a hl W t u f. ta t r. qu s t or d rdh ma ien ho o f f o Ne ng st ei l lte u r. h e i t o w No ei he s ai B ei m r i eg g rrn | sc er u 40 r d m u L a HB hu f s m m nd le w a us e 40 h eu s32 lm Bi rc Bu Ch hd 15 c a ör pl he La f li w l e tg a w ub eg t z gBi O eg i M rc st be ilc h r r hb 14 M . w ie s t r uc ax se . k -B nS Ha ill S2 S8 S14 pl ch -P at af 15 l d e la 75 f z h ne tz a 11 us 6 gg er m La au ng U Le s t e rIr c ni v r. t S he er ze ch zis t l sit rs eu r ät t r. c h . 14 S 10 tr S i ck 9 ch Se Ki ho T i an il b nk er ah f z a el sp n 76 ck Ri La st ita gi er 8 r. bl ng ic l st k en r. Sc Ha st W hä lle ei g a O n ne ar ld pp e b Ge t n r iw en li ad st Fr rm eg r. R i kon oh an ed bu Fr ia Ri 33 gr Ha ie rg st gi ab dr ge r. bl en i Sa ic c Sc nh k at hw hs t ol Ri le r. z a ed ns Sp m ba t e D yr r. nd re ch is 7 in is te Kr pi ge 5 ig tz ön rp le la 62 Ro in tz He sw 79 st Au He ub r. Gl ie se br at rz ee og tw üc n Fl riw O He ob ke en ie r io eg se ot e m 6 ns re Pr n st üh Lu t r. nw ob r. Im le Au Au M eg s i s es at te la is ze Kl t r. ze i te en nd H ös l lg g Sc ir z nh te O s h en of st t r. ü r li rg ba ich

Chrüzächer

Cable car/funicular Boat

Terminus

Haltestelle nur in Pfeilrichtung bedient

Bus stop only for direction shown

Linie verkehrt nur in einer Richtung Tarifzone ZVV

Bus only travels in one direction here ZVV fare zone

Wald

Woodland

Stadtgrenze

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