Indianapolis Monthly - January 2024 Edition by Indianapolis Monthly

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01 2024 ON THE COVER Antiques and taxidermy ﬁll a 1912 home.

GREAT BAKES

52 HOME OF THE MONTH

60 LAUGHING OUT LOUD

If self-care was your New Year’s resolution, then we have everything from recipes to local recommendations to help you beat the gloom and embrace guilt-free comfort with Indy’s warmest, fluffiest, gooiest baked treats.

After falling in love with a historic gem on Indy’s east side, a couple has restored it and outfitted it with antique treasures to create a periodappropriate time capsule that could rival a museum.

Indiana native Megan Gailey draws upon her middle-class Hoosier upbringing to turn the typical on its head. With her razor sharp wit, she’s using comedy to cut through everything from sports to parenthood.

E DI T E D BY T W I N K L E VA N W I N K L E

BY BA I L E Y B R I S C OE

BY J U L I A S PA L DI NG

IM | JANUARY 2024

PHOTO BY TONY VALAINIS

Photograph by Tony Valainis, retouching by Andrew Davis

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01 2024

ISSUE 5

G O OD L I F E

C I RC L E C I T Y

SPEED READ

WANTED

SWOON

Indianapolis Opera’s one-dayonly performance of Charlie Parker’s Yardbird at Walker Theatre is bringing worldclass talent to Indy.

Ash Robinson’s compelling mirrors combine figurative and abstract geometric art.

Instead of relegating fresh greens to a starter or a side, Gather 22 mixes up a niçoise salad that steals the show.

SHOP TALK

WDRFA brings sleek streetwear to the Stutz.

THE HOOSIERIST

Our Indiana expert illuminates how The Children’s Museum’s four-story Dale Chihuly sculpture gets cleaned.

TRENDING

Blue hues to renew your style.

ASK ME ANYTHING

Zionsville’s incoming mayor, former news anchor John Stehr, is ready to usher in a new era.

FIRST BITE

The bookstore/coffee shop of our dreams is here, Garden Table beckons us to its new patio, and Nyla Elizondo reminds us to slow down.

BODY+SOUL

FOODIE

Start the new year with poledancing at Nexxus Movement or courses at ClassPop.

Sisters Mandy Selke and Carly Swift create joy in every kernel at Just Pop In!

REALTY CHECK

TASTE TEST

Choose between equestrian elegance or stylish city views.

Long cherished in secret by the family Lincoln gifted it to, the president’s mallet is on display in time for the observance of his 215th birthday.

Satisfy your adult craving for juicy beef and your childhood love for PB with these savorysweet peanut butter burgers.

Explore Circle City Industrial Complex’s eclectic offerings.

REVIEW

ARTIFACT

STREET SAVVY

TRAVELER

BEST BETS

Plan your tropical destination vacation ... in Detroit!

Five can’t-miss events in Indy this month.

91 4

T H E DI S H

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Esteban Rosas and Gabriel Sañudo call upon their vast experience and skills—and their families—to assemble mouthwatering tacos.

RESTAURANT GUIDE

BACK HOME AGAIN

A tour of the city’s best eats, from fine dining to favorite dives.

Shunning 93,000,000 Americans is a complex operation, but I’m managing.

VOLUME 47

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65 // INDIANA BRIDE Get ideas and inspiration for your nuptials from our bridal section, which includes photos and details of local weddings, along with planning tips and advice from industry pros. Attend the Indianapolis Monthly Bridal Show on January 7 at The Sixpence in Whitestown to chat with wedding vendors about all aspects of your event, such as cakes and catering, entertainment, reception venues, flowers, gowns and tuxes, rings, invitations, photography, and more.

IN THE NEXT ISSUE ...

SCHOOL GUIDE Need help deciding where to send your children to school? We’ve done the homework for you. This annual guide lists test scores, tuition rates, and contact information for public, private, and charter schools, as well as enrollment numbers, room and board fees, and degree programs

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E DI T OR’S NO T E

Bread Alert I HAV E a love/hate relationship with baked goods. I adore all manner of pastries, cake, doughnuts, and rolls, but anything made with wheat flour tends to disagree with me due to a gluten sensitivity. So I pass on the bread basket at dinner and steer clear of sandwich menus at lunch. It wasn’t always this way. For a solid three-quarters of my life, I was blissfully unaware that a sometimes-problematic grain protein called gluten even existed. I could eat pizza and breadsticks, maybe even followed by birthday cake, without any ill effect. But bodies change over time, and mine became less tolerant of floury foods. I’m not necessarily mad about it. I’ve learned to adapt and adjust my diet, and my aversion to wheat certainly doesn’t prevent me from finding other things to eat. But I still get tempted by a thick slice of sourdough or a bite of baguette. In a cover feature that rightly glorifies Indy bakeries and the doughy, fluffy, crusty creations they produce (p. 40), I’m glad to see a few glutenfree options in the spotlight. I’ve never been much of a baker, and a couple failed attempts to make cookies with ingredients like rice flour and xanthan gum convinced me that I needn’t continue experimenting. It’s to my advantage that Hayley McGinley of Native Bread persisted in her efforts to launch a line of allergy-friendly baked goods that rival the quality of their gluten-filled counterparts. And I will always pick up a 4 Birds Bakery gluten-free peanut butter chocolate chip cookie—or a four-pack—whenever I spot a display of them for sale. If necessity is the mother of invention, I’m glad Jenna Unrue saw a need to develop this specific recipe and introduce it to the local marketplace. If you have no restrictions where wheat or gluten are concerned, I heartily encourage you to use this issue to guide you to the best baked goods around. Go, break bread, and load up on all the carbs. I’ll be over here cheering you on with a slice of flourless torte.

Andrea Ratcliff Editor-in-Chief

( CONTRIBUTORS )

Emily Udell

Julia Spalding

Margo Wininger

A devotion to cake and carbs qualified Emily Udell to take on writing about JaJustice Bakes and Native Bread for this month’s Great Bakes feature (p. 40). “I was super hungry after doing both these interviews,” she says. Udell has written for several media outlets, including The Associated Press, The Indianapolis Star, and American Libraries. She lives on the near east side with her cat and plays roller derby.

An admitted podcast addict, features editor Julia Spalding learned about Indy-born, Los Angeles–based comedian Megan Gailey by way of her daily earbud habit. She was impressed not only by the comedian’s sharp wit but also her ability to weave her unapologetic Hoosier background into hilarious bits. Get a sample of Gailey’s stand-up personality in Spalding’s profile (p. 60) ... and don’t forget to tip your server.

Newly appointed design director Margo Wininger has been with Indy Monthly for 10 years. A longtime resident of Meridian-Kessler, she enjoys walking her dog around her historic neighborhood and eating at nearby fave Cafe Patachou. She’s excited about adding their new Stutz Building location to her haunts, along with indulging her Amelia’s fixation and exploring newcomers like Julieta Taco Shop (p. 38) and streetwear boutique WDRFA (p. 24).

IM | JANUARY 2024

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Indianapolis Monthly launched its ﬁrst Savor event with a week of ﬁne food and wine supporting local charities. FALL 2023

RECAP

In November, 600 guests gathered at the Ritz Charles to enjoy four nights of amazing food and wine from eight of the best chefs in Indianapolis. Each night featured a one-of-a-kind five-course menu created by two local chefs, complete with wine pairings. We also partnered with four Indianapolis nonprofit organizations that benefited from the proceeds of the event. Thank you to all of our sponsors, partners, and guests, who made this dining series a phenomenal success.

THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS AND PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS AND VENDORS!

Presenting Sponsor: Ritz Charles Additional Sponsors: The Agency Indy, Ambassador Wines of Washington, Monk’s Road Bourbons & Gins Participating restaurants/vendors: 9th Street Bistro, Anthony’s Chophouse, Chefski Personal Chef, The Fountain Room, Open Kitchen Restaurant, Red Frazier Bison Cuisine, Tinker Street

Subscribe at IndianapolisMonthly.com/newsletter to receive a weekly guide to the best of local food and drink.

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ASK T H E HO OSI E RIST . . 16 UNSP OKE N RULES . . . . . . 16

C I RC L E C I T Y

ASK M E ANY T H I NG . . . . . . 18 ART I FACT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 BEST BETS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

SPEED READ

A Rare Bird The opera Charlie Parker’s Yardbird is headed our way. A stellar cast will explore the jazz icon’s life and the loved ones who inﬂuenced his music on the historic Madam Walker Theatre stage—but in only one performance on March 16.

JANUARY 2024 | IM

( SPEED READ CON T I NUE D ) INDIANAPOLIS OPERA WANTS TO GET YOU

OF THE 20 MUSICAL NUMBERS IN THE 90-MINUTE SHOW, ZERO ARE CHARLIE PARKER COMPOSITIONS. The production,

composed by Swiss American composer Daniel Schnyder with the libretto by late playwright Bridgette A. Wimberly, is a fictionalized account of the artist’s struggle to write a final masterpiece while trapped in a sort of purgatory represented by Birdland, his New York City jazz club. The music is primarily devoted to the various inspirations (including his mother and his wives) and trials (racial inequality, his heroin addiction) that shaped his character. Yardbird isn’t so much a salute to jazz music as it is an operatic exploration of a jazz artist’s life and influences. THAT’S PROBABLY JUST AS WELL. “You can’t ask an opera singer to sing jazz,” David Starkey, Indianapolis Opera general director and Yardbird producer, insists. “That’s one of the very few things that they really can’t do. Most classically trained singers can sing musical theater, art songs, countrywestern, even some pop. But jazz is unique because it’s far more instrumental in its construction.” Add to this the fact that Parker wasn’t a vocalist but a saxophonist. BOOKING MADAM WALKER THEATRE WAS A LONG PROCESS, AND IT CAN ONLY ACCOMMODATE ONE PERFORMANCE.

Indianapolis Opera describes the process started in 2019 as “not necessarily a smooth one.” Everything from an extensive remodeling of the theater to the pandemic gummed up the works. The time needed for staging Yardbird didn’t help. “[The theater is] used to bringing in projects that are 14

IM | JANUARY 2024

Renowned opera singer Angela Brown reprises the role of Addie Parker, Charlie Parker’s mother.

“WE HAVE BEEN ABLE TO ASSEMBLE A WORLD-RENOWNED CAST THAT’S ON PAR WITH ANY OTHER PRODUCTION THAT’S EVER BEEN DONE. THAT’S A TESTAMENT TO ANGELA BROWN’S INFLUENCE.” one-day affairs,” Starkey says. “But we need multiple days, and that’s much more of a challenge for them to schedule.” Landing the storied stage for even just one performance was well worth the trouble, though. THE VENUE GIVES YARDBIRD A SPECIAL HISTORICAL RESONANCE. It turns out Parker was something of a regular at Walker Theatre. He and Dizzy Gillespie fine-tuned their jazz shows there before taking them to Chicago. “This is the only venue and street where this opera has been produced that has an association with Parker himself,” Starkey says. “It’s unique to Indianapolis.” IT’LL BE THE CABARET VERSION. The show’s staging was reorganized “to get the opera into nontraditional venues,” Starkey explains. Yardbird was first performed by Opera Philadelphia and Minnesota Opera in full-scale opera houses. However, New York City’s Apollo Theater hosted the third production when an opera house fell through. The musicians performed onstage instead of being hidden away in a classic orchestra pit—a move that seemed more in keeping with the jazz club setting where much of the show takes place. “Walker doesn’t have an orchestra pit either, so the orchestra will become part of the set,” Starkey adds.

THE SHOW’S FEMALE LEAD IS AN INDY NATIVE. The role of Charlie Parker’s mother, Addie Parker, was literally written for Angela Brown, one of the leading voices of today’s opera scene. “Angela’s reprising the role of Addie Parker in her hometown,” Starkey notes. “And she’s been my artistic collaborator from day one.” THANKS TO ANGELA BROWN, THE INDIANAPOLIS OPERA HAS ASSEMBLED THE MOST EXPERIENCED CAST OF ANY YARDBIRD PRODUCTION. Internationally famous tenor Martin Bakari is assuming the lead role, baritone Jorell Williams plays Dizzy Gillespie, and Clinton Smith, who originated the show’s “cabaret version,” conducts. “We have been able to assemble a world-renowned cast that’s on par with any other production that’s ever been done,” Starkey says. “That’s a testament to Angela Brown’s influence.” IT WASN’T CHEAP. “It’s going to cost more than $100,000 to put this project together,” says Starkey. “It could even hit $200,000 after we add in marketing, staff, and outreach events.” YOU MAY WANT TO GRAB TICKETS NOW. The theater only seats about 800 people, so visit indyopera.org tout de suite. Tickets run $39 to $92. — S A M S TA L L

PHOTO BY TONY VALAINIS

UP TO SPEED ON PARKER. Five panel discussions are planned from February 15 through March 1. “These will be sort of informational performances,” says Shederick Whipple, Indianapolis Opera community outreach director, “not just about Charlie Parker but also about Indiana Avenue and jazz history.” Contact Indianapolis Opera at 317-236-2099 for the latest information about these events. They’ll offer a solid grounding in his work—unlike the opera itself.

Photography by Rebecca Shehorn

( UNSPOKEN RULES )

Festival of Ice

ask THE HOOSIERIST

A Tall Order

Q: HOW DOES THE CHILDREN’S MUSEUM CLEAN ITS GIANT DALE CHIHULY SCULPTURE? A: Fireworks of Glass Tower and Ceiling is as hard to clean as it was to create. Made of 4,800 individually handblown glass pieces, the three-story column towers over a vast pergola, the ceiling of which is made up of a compartment containing more pieces scattered on a clear glass plate. Every six weeks, a crew from Seattle-based Denny Park Fine Arts (the only one authorized to maintain Chihuly’s work) descends on chairs suspended from the roof to oh-so-carefully wipe it down. Once every other year, it gets a deep cleaning. “We close the area under the tower so the crew can open the panels in the pergola ceiling, remove all the glass, clean each piece, and then return them to the compartment that forms the see-through ceiling,” says the Children’s Museum’s exhibition conservation manager, Christy O’Grady. The staff takes care of easy-to-reach dust on the base. —SAM STALL

THE STATE STAT

187

IM | JANUARY 2024

Number of sunny or partly sunny days annually in Indianapolis

It’s people’s choice on Saturday, when ice carvers take special requests. Save time for ice-skating or lounging in the cozy igloos. Parking is free in the city garage attached to the Tarkington theater building. Planning to attend the big Sunday ice carving stage show? So is everyone else. Just be aware it’ll be standing room only. Restrooms are across the Monon next to Hotel Carmichael, inside the Tarkington theater building. Taste-testing after the Carmel Fire Department chili cookoff is free. All the sculptures are under a tent, so the festival goes on rain, shine, or flurries.

As the gloom of winter engulfs us, it’s worth noting that while Indy only sees the sun roughly half the time, it could be worse. South Bend gets only 173 sunny or partly sunny days a year. So, let’s count our blessings, shall we?

ILLUSTRATION BY RYAN JOHNSON, FESTIVAL OF ICE PHOTO COURTESY BETH MAIER.

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I always liked covering politics. Election night was the best night of the year to me. But projecting myself into that mix? No. Even now, I would never want to be in the state legislature nor Congress to fight those fights all the time. To me, this is simpler. It’s supplying the town services and having a vision for what the town is going to be like in 15 or 20 years. I leave the social issues to other people.

Do you see any parallels to your broadcast career? When I first got into media 40 years ago, I felt it was an important service, facilitating the free exchange of information. But it’s changed so much. There are so many other sources of information now. I felt a lot of that service component was lost, and it became more about attracting enough eyeballs to sell cars for advertisers. So I see this as a return to serving people and moving the community forward in a positive way.

John Stehr, mayor THE RETIRED WTHR-TV ANCHOR KICKS OFF THE NEW YEAR WITH A NEW JOB: MAYOR OF ZIONSVILLE. HE DEFEATED JANE BURGESS IN THE REPUBLICAN PRIMARY IN MAY AND RAN UNOPPOSED IN NOVEMBER. HE SAT DOWN WITH ONE OF HIS FORMER COLLEAGUES AT WTHR TO GIVE HER THE SCOOP ON WHAT DROVE HIM INTO THE HOT SEAT. B Y M A RY M I L Z So, how is “Mayor Stehr” sounding? My daughter Meredith’s nickname is Marestehr, so now the joke is we have two “Mayor Stehrs” in the family. Some people have been calling me mayor since right after the primary. It’s different, but yeah, I’m getting used to it. At 65, you could be traveling and taking up hobbies. Instead, you jump into what some would call a thankless job. Why? When I retired, I wanted to do 18

IM | JANUARY 2024

something for the community. When I became president of the park board, I could see what I thought was really dysfunctional inside of town government. The many roadblocks in the way of progress just frustrated me. I thought we could do a lot better. What it takes more than anything is good communication skills, and I’ve honed those over a long period.

Was running for office one day always in the back of your mind? I was a political science major.

What’s your top priority? It comes back to communication. Job one is going to be lowering the temperature on the politics here, because it’s been a very political, very divisive situation the last few years. You’re referring to the administration of outgoing Democratic mayor Emily Styron ...? Yes. She won in 2019 by a thin margin and had a rancorous relationship with the all-Republican council. As for what happened … you can’t lay blame squarely on one person. It takes both sides. For multiple reasons, communication completely broke down between the mayor and the council. For one, the mayor let the fire chief go, even though the council didn’t want her to. The ensuing court battle and appeal cost a lot of money.

PHOTO BY TONY VALAINIS

ASK ME ANYTHING

You ran on the GOP ticket. Are you a lifelong Republican? I’ve voted in every election since I was 18, for Republicans in the vast majority. But I really don’t think this needs to be partisan. The people who pay the taxes, who need the services, they should be at the center of everything, not a political ideology.

The chief kept his job in the end; her relationship with the council never recovered. But she’s been nothing but open and collegial with me.

What else is a pressing matter? Zionsville hasn’t done a comprehensive plan in 20 years. Obviously, Zionsville has changed dramatically in the last 20 years, with the population nearly tripling to more than 33,000. The town council and former mayor recognized this, so we have money in the 2024 budget to create a comprehensive plan. Once that’s done, we can consider zoning changes, adjustments to the transportation plan, and a new fiscal plan. The comprehensive plan will inform all of that. It’s the way forward for the next generation. Your new job includes overseeing eight departments and 250 employees. That’s a big responsibility. The buck stops with me. I’m committed to sitting down and talking with every single town employee and trying to chart a new way forward, hopefully helping them feel better about where we are and where we’re going. I think morale is not what we would like it to be among our town employees. I take the role of being the chief cheerleader of the town very seriously, so I plan to be as visible and involved as possible. How has your career prepared you? When you’re in a public enterprise like TV news, there are always going to be people who are critical of you, and they’re not shy about it. That’s given me an understanding that not everyone is going to love everything I do all the time. I joke with my wife that after a year or so, residents are going to be mad at me. She said that would only mean I’m doing something right.

“WHEN YOU’RE IN A PUBLIC ENTERPRISE LIKE TV NEWS, THERE ARE ALWAYS GOING TO BE PEOPLE WHO ARE CRITICAL OF YOU, AND THEY’RE NOT SHY ABOUT IT. THAT’S GIVEN ME AN UNDERSTANDING THAT NOT EVERYONE IS GOING TO LOVE EVERYTHING I DO ALL THE TIME.” you’re an elected official, you owe it to your constituents to answer questions. You should never duck reporters.

So then you’re ready to address a gaggle of reporters when big news, or perhaps even a scandal, breaks in Zionsville? I am. We do have a crisis communication plan here, and we’re talking about refining it even further. The number one rule is to share the information you have. Avoiding questions or holding back the truth is never productive in any way. Is it true that reporters will have your cell phone number and can call you 24-7? Yes! I will always take calls and try to give an answer, even if it’s only, “I don’t know,” or, “We haven’t decided yet.” I can’t resist: Are you going to wear makeup and use a teleprompter for news conferences? No, and no! Absolutely not!

Did she support this move? Very much so. I’ve learned when you run for office, it becomes personal. Amy has been uber encouraging. I don’t know how anyone could do this without support from their partner.

Did you reach out to any former candidates who helped you decide whether to run? Yes, it was someone who’s held a significant office and whose advice I embrace. He said, “OK, if you’re going to do this, you need to give me a 10-word reason why.” My answer came pretty instantly. Holding up my fingers one at a time, I said, “Because I want the town we love to do better.” He then said, “Now give me 10 words on why you’re the guy to make it better.” That answer was, “Because I have the communication skills to do the job.” Finally, he said, “OK, you’re ready.” I filed the paperwork the next day.

What bugged you about politicians as a member of the media? Probably a lack of accessibility. If

Have you connected with your counterparts in Indianapolis suburbs? I’ve talked with all of them. I think

it’s important we engage, because we’re not just competing against each other for economic opportunities. We’re competing against Nashville, Tennessee; Columbus and Cincinnati in Ohio; and Chicago. So we need to cooperate. I was pleased that all the mayors signaled the same idea.

What’s the biggest challenge Zionsville faces? Most of our tax base is residential. We need a larger commercial tax base, so a focus will be developing the South Village south of Sycamore Street. Do you anticipate competing interests in how Zionsville grows? Everyone recognizes it’s only going to grow. But they want it to grow in a way that’s complementary to what’s already here, not damaging to our brand. And our brand, so to speak, is our brick Main Street. I recognize that it really is the heart and soul of Zionsville. But the best way to protect it is by encouraging those in proximity to Zionsville to go to the restaurants and shops and enjoy it. You don’t protect it by putting up a wall, not changing anything, not moving forward. I want to energize Main Street further so that even more people will use it. And to the folks farther north, their rural and historical heritage is really important, so we need to protect that, as well. What do you hope to accomplish in the next four years? I hope to have calmed down the rhetoric and animosity between the players involved and to have moved ahead on a comprehensive development plan that builds on the town that we love, while being supportive of our Main Street business district, our school system, and of all our constituents. JANUARY 2024 | IM

ARTIFACT

ABRAHAM LINCOLN’S BENCH MALLET VINTAGE: 1829

THE LONG-HIDDEN and remarkable wooden bench mallet that once belonged to Abe Lincoln is on display at the Indiana State Museum, just in time for his birthday on February 12. The tool was originally a heavy splitting maul, which was used to drive iron wedges into logs to divide them, until it broke and was repurposed as a smaller bench mallet, used for tasks like driving pegs. True to his popular image as a frontiersman, Lincoln was known as “The Railsplitter.” Wear and tear is evident on the misshapen head of the all-wood instrument, which is inlaid with the enduring mark “A.L. 1829.” The piece was dated by analyzing the iron tacks used for the periods. Lincoln spent ages 7 to 21 (1816–1830) in Southern Indiana. When he departed for Illinois, he left his trusty mallet to his neighbors, the family of Barnabas Carter, who secretly cherished it as a family heirloom for ﬁve generations before ﬁnally sharing it with the public. — A S H L E Y N I X

IM | JANUARY 2024

PHOTO BY TONY VALAINIS

Resides within the Indiana State Museum

01 2024 4

BEST BETS

THIS MONTH’S CAN’T-MISS EVENTS

(1) Festival of Trees Ongoing through January 6 It’s not too late to enjoy the 10th anniversary of this annual winter wonderland at the Indiana Historical Society. indianahistory.org/events/ festival-of-trees

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(2) IU Women’s

(3) Toy Story in

(4) Indianapolis

January 4 The University of Michigan Wolverines are traveling to Bloomington’s Assembly Hall to challenge our Hoosiers. iuhoosiers.com

January 6–7 At Hilbert Circle Theatre, the beloved Toy Story films come to life under the artistic leadership of principal pops conductor Jack Everly. indianapolissymphony.org

January 19–28 The country’s longestrunning home show is back at the Indiana State Fairgrounds & Event Center with 450 exhibitors showing off all things abode. indianapolishomeshow.com

Basketball

Concert

Home Show

PHOTOS COURTESY: (1) INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY; (2) IU WOMENS BASKETBALL/GRACIE FARRALL; (3) WILLROW HOOD/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; (4) DAVIS HOMES; (5) THE ATHENAEUM FOUNDATION, INC.

(5) Karneval January 27 For the first time post-pandemic, the German masquerade ball with traditions going back to the Middle Ages is back at the Athenaeum. athenaeumindy.org

I l l u s t r a t i o n b y H AT S U E

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01 2024

TRENDING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

G O OD L I F E

B ODY+SOUL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 REALTY CHECK . . . . . . . . 27 STREET SAV VY . . . . . . . . . 28 TRAVELER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

WANTED

Self-Reflection Recently exhibited at Butter Art Fair, Ash Robinson’s Black Mirror series combines abstract geometric and ﬁgurative design to create representations of African American “personas,” which are inspired by Robinson’s personal experience and research. The 50-by-28-inch Black Mirror 1 is framed using repurposed wood assembled in abstract shapes to resemble a head—recalling an African mask—with tufted yarn in regal black, brown, maroon, and gold and woven basket material emulating textured hair. The core black mirror is the face. “As you look in the mirror[s] … these ‘personas’ are looking back at you,” says Robinson. New pieces in the series will show at the Silver Room in Chicago in February. $6,500. ashrobinsonstudio.com, @ashkrobinson. — A S H L E Y N I X

P h o t o b y T O N Y VA L A I N I S

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MY LOOK

WDRFA ADDRESS

1060 N. Capitol Ave. HOU RS

Wed–Sat noon–7 p.m., Sun noon–5 p.m.

( SHOP TALK )

Triumph Over Adversity

Katie Clements Creative Director DO YOU HAVE ANY GO-TO SHOPS?

I always check out The Toggery, Zodiac Vintage, and Mission 27. I’m a big advocate for sustainable fashion.

LIFESTYLE BRAND WDRFA KICKS OFF IN ITS STUTZ BUILDING BOUTIQUE. B Y M E G A N F E R NA N D E Z

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HOW DO YOU DECIDE WHAT TO WEAR EACH MORNING?

SCOUTED (1) Leather logo bag, $200 (2) Beaded bracelets, $12 (3)

Wildcat cartoon hoodie, $100 (4) 091scented candles, $12 each

It’s based on how I’m feeling and who I’m seeing. I like to wear client brand colors and anything that will inspire my coworkers with joy. My go-to is layering and putting unique color combinations together. If it seems off, I try it. HOW DO YOU CHOOSE ACCESSORIES?

I build off of my shoe selection, making sure any metals match. —ASHLEY NIX

PHOTOS BY TONY VALAINIS

M I KE GI LLIS mans his meticulous boutique, WDRFA, in a waxed-denim jacket from Carhartt Work in Progress, a refined fashion-forward spinoff of the durable workwear. It’s not the kind of thing anyone would put on to chop wood. The clothing and accessories in WDRFA look just as expensive, well-made, and street-ready. After spending years working for Indy retail stalwarts like Lids, the Colts Pro Shop, and Hangtime, Gillis and his uncle, Gary Patterson, both IUPUI grads, made a name for themselves among the city’s creatives by selling out collections of sweats, nylon pants, and T-shirts. “Very quietly, we have been a big part of big companies in Indianapolis,” says Patterson. WDRFA’s Stutz Building boutique makes their breakout official. Store and product designs contain hidden symbolism, including social commentary and homages to relatives. The brand name stands for “We Don’t Run From Adversity,” a credo that the founders hope customers find inspiring. “Everyone can relate to trials and tribulations,” Gillis says.

TRENDING

Renew Blue

START 2024 CALM AND COOL WITH THIS FRESH HUE.

BY S T E P H E N G A R S TA N G

(1) Mimi & Lula

(2) Addison

girls’ Saturn glitter purse. $35. Lunch Money Boutique, 5617 N. Illinois St., lunchmoney boutique.com

Ross London Bobbin pepper or salt mill. $98. Parkside Linen, 1762 E. 86th St., parkside linen.com

(3) Lucite picture frames.

Custom; inquire for price. Easter Conservation Services, 1134 E. 54th St., easter conservation.com

(4) Baccarat Harmonie tumblers. $1,300/set

of four. Charles Mayer & Co., 5629 N. Illinois St., charles mayer.com

(5) Julie Vos Antonia necklace.

$485. Charles Mayer & Co. (6) Blue Elegance thank you cards. $18/box

of 14. Artisans, 429 Massachusetts Ave., artisansindy.com

54th St., shop civvies.com

francisandfern boutique.com

(8) Frnch Luna lined button-up.

(9) Picasso selfportrait. $139.

(7) Gola Jupiter sneakers. $135.

$95. Francis + Fern, 421 Massachusetts Ave.,

Surroundings, 1101 E. 54th St., 317-254-8883

Civvies, 1134 E.

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Give It a Whirl I TESTED MY BODY AND SPIRIT TRYING POLE DANCING. BY C H R I S T I A NA B E RT S C H

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After a few rounds of back warmups, I felt like Jell-O—but I was ready. The actual dancing, thankfully, started off gently, with learning how to walk on the balls of our feet. Then R&B music started playing, and I trotted around my pole, making the choreography my own as I went. Then we advanced to jumping, and then finally to pirouetting around our poles. The hardest part was wrapping my leg around the pole for a spin. I didn’t need quite as much upper body power as I expected; you do use your arms to climb the pole, but your lower body is what holds you. My favorite move was a tilt that went into a leg wave—I didn’t know my body could move like that! Despite bruises on my inner thighs and a few days of soreness, I felt strong and proud that I had started to reclaim my sensuality. 1315 Shelby St., 317-533-8355, nexxuspoleindy.com

Nexxus Movement DROP-I N CLASSES

$30 MON T H LY MEMBERSHIPS

$105–$215

T RY IT !

Life Lessons Discover new skills, even rekindle romance, in fun classes. AH, New Year’s resolutions. Inspiring … yet usually futile. In 2024, instead of aiming (again) to hit the gym six times a week, consider more realistic selfimprovement. How about learning something new? Taking time for yourself for a change? Or instituting a monthly date night with your partner? Classpop, a platform where you can book no-skillneeded group classes in Indy with a local teacher, checks all three boxes. Among the options are art lessons— including Learn How to Paint Like Monet and Paint Your Own Pet—dance instruction, pottery classes, and flower-arranging tutorials. Or opt for a cooking class, from Effortless Indian Cuisine to New England Comfort Food. Coming up are Homemade Naan and Hummus on January 6 and Chimichurri Pasta from Scratch on January 27. Wine or beer can be purchased at the venues to enjoy during the twohour classes. Class pop.com — C H R I S T I NA V E RCE LLET TO

NEXXUS PHOTO COURTESY HANNAH JONES PHOTOGRAPHY. CLASS PHOTO COURTESY CLASSPOP.

AS A WOMAN on her fitness journey, I am BODY often on the hunt for +SOUL new and fun ways to get healthier. Yet, for a long time, pole dancing didn’t enter my mind. Obviously, it has a connotation—one that didn’t line up with my self-consciousness and insecurity after a rough breakup. But after watching a video, I was intrigued enough to give it a shot at Nexxus Movement, a “pole fitness boutique” where I, too, could learn the “elegant and sensual art of pole dancing.” So I signed up for Specialty Bootcamp in Movement and Flexibility, listed as “suitable for all levels.” I took dance as a teen, so I was pretty sure I could pick up that part of it. What I wasn’t sure of was whether I had the upper body strength to suspend myself in the air, à la J.Lo in Hustlers. I was told you need skin-to-pole contact to stay aloft, so upon arriving at my first session, I doffed my sweatpants to reveal the tiniest pair of athletic shorts I could find. We began by warming up our hamstrings and hip flexors with lunges. I discovered muscles I didn’t know I had during the goddess pose (an extra deep, wide squat). My legs were shaking, but the comradery I felt with my classmates got me through. “It’s okay to stop if you need to,” our instructor assured us, but nobody did, not even while holding the superman pose, a core killer that earns its name. As I looked around and saw my classmates struggling like me, I was encouraged to stay with it.

( THIS OR T HAT ? )

Horses Versus Haute WHAT A DECISION: AN EQUESTRIAN ELYSIUM OR THE SUITE LIFE. BY J E A NA H A R R I S

GALLOP the days away on an REALTY equestrian estate CHECK in Pendleton or perch high above the city in one of the Conrad’s luxurious condos. Two disparate lifestyles represented in two incredible properties tempt homeseekers browsing in the upper $4 million range.

PHOTOS PROVIDED

The Equestrian Estate Located 35 miles northeast of Indy and easily accessed via I-69, Pendleton has a population of fewer than 5,000. Sprawled over more than 27 acres, this jaw-dropper is like Disney World for horse lovers, but instead of Cinderella’s castle, you’ll find five separate barns that include 25 horse stalls, 21 paddocks, two tack rooms, two indoor riding arenas, and an outdoor arena with ballpark lighting. Trotting away from the equine side of things, you’ll discover the main home—a classic 1870s farmhouse that’s been remodeled but still offers true country charm—two separate guest houses, a pool with a pool house, and a stocked pond. The Posh Pad Luxury and the Conrad are synonymous. The hotel has 18 residential condos on its top floors. With more than 5,000 square feet of living space, this unit is larger than the average suburban house. Designed by Stephen Taylor, the condo favors classic finishes and textiles, with pops of color energizing the main living spaces. Thanks to a clever layout, entertaining is a dream, whether hosting an intimate dinner or a full-blown soiree. The bedrooms are bright and spacious. As the day progresses, the light changes the feel of the space. On warm nights, you’ll enjoy two balconies to take in the sights and sounds of the city.

115 W. State Rd. 38, Pendleton BEDROOMS 4 BATHROOMS 2 SQUARE FOOTAGE 3,435 YEAR BUILT 1879 WINNING EXTRA Accommodations for up to 25 horses REALTOR F.C. Tucker

1 N. Illinois St., Apt. 2102, Downtown BEDROOMS 3 BATHROOMS 4 SQUARE FOOTAGE 5,070 YEAR BUILT 2006 WINNING EXTRA Skyline views from two balconies REALTOR Everhart Studios JANUARY 2024 | IM

Circle City Industrial Complex

T H E T U RF

Near Eastside

T SE

E AV

H AC SS

AT THE TAIL END OF MASS AVE, THIS 1900S AUTOMOTIVE FACTORY TURNED CREATIVE HAVEN HOUSES MORE THAN 80 BUSINESSES. BUSTLING FIRST FRIDAYS SEE ART LOVERS SCOUR THE STUDIOS FILLED WITH ONE-OF-A-KIND WORKS. BY M O N I C A S A L L AY

UE VEN EA SID OK O BR

10TH STREET

CLINK Cheers to Centerpoint Brewing (1), a spacious hangout with STREET SAVVY locally crafted brewskis to please any palate. Sip on a chocolatey Black American Porter or blood orange–infused IPA from their Origin Series. Be sure to bring your buddies, both human and canine, to enjoy Thursday trivia nights or bites from rotating food trucks. 1125 E. Brookside Ave., Ste. 2B, 317-602-8386, centerpointbrewing.com PERUSE Leisurely stroll through the expansive Full Circle Nine Gallery (2) and discover art by more than two dozen Indybased creatives. From pop art paintings to landscape photography, you’ll find plenty to see and shop. Snag a cool piece and support local artists who enrich the city. 1125 E. Brookside Ave., Ste. B21, 317-672-7253, fullcirclenine.com ADMIRE Herron School of Art + Design graduate Tasha Beckwith has taken the 28

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Indy art scene by storm. Her striking paintings and sculptures celebrate African Americans with stunning detail and colors. In addition to stopping into Tasha Beckwith Fine Arts (3), be sure to check out her remarkable mural on the Martens Building at the Pathways to Peace Park downtown. 1125 E. Brookside Ave., Ste. S07, tashabeckwith.myportfolio.com PLAY Head to First Fridays at Bebito Studio (4) for gifts for the kiddos in your life. Owner and artist Rachel Hedges’ specialty is quirky stuffies crafted for cuddles and handmade from recycled materials, like her signature Dolores the Librarian. Keep an eye out for Dolores at local libraries; you may be surprised to find her hiding among the children’s books. 1125 E. Brookside Ave., Ste. S06, bebitotoys.com SPARKLE Bask in the shine of gems galore, set in sterling silver, copper, and gold. Grace Marshall, owner of Grace M Design (5), is a certified jeweler and gemologist with 20 years of experience

This page, clockwise from above left: 8th Day Distillery serves up enticing elixirs and also sells bottles of their spirits to go; A quirky critter ready to be brought to life with pieces of recycled sweaters at Bebito Studio; Metalworker, jewelry designer, and owner of Grace M Design Grace Marshall at work in her studio.

This page, clockwise from below left: A patron relaxes with an IPA at Centerpoint Brewery; The Fowling Warehouse draws many players to its competitive leagues; A display of the baubles for sale at Grace M Design; Owner Meredith Frey setting up an art glass project at Indy Fused Glass.

creating distinctive rings, bracelets, and necklaces. We especially like her Indianapolis-themed jewelry, including the skyline cuff bracelet, for beautifully showing off your Circle City pride. 1125 E. Brookside Ave., Ste. C14, gracemdesign.com CRAFT Get creative at Indy Fused Glass (6) while making your own unique and colorful glassware. The space hosts regular two-hour classes where you can cut and customize your piece, then leave it for the staff to fire for you. Pick it up any time between three days and three months later. Or peruse the ready-made works at the front of the shop and pick up a spectacular last-minute present. 1125 E. Brookside Ave., Ste. C05, 317-987-9556, indyfusedglass.com TAKE IT HOME

Abstract Facade glass sculpture on metal stand, $125. Indy Fused Glass, indyfusedglass.com

Copper Indy skyline bracelet, $85. Grace M Design, gracem design.com

Dolores the Librarian stuffie, $35. Bebito Studio, bebitotoys.com

INDULGE Considered by many to be the best chocolate shop in Indiana, SoChatti (7) supplies decadent, dairy-free deliciousness to satisfy your sweet tooth. Take one of their chocolate and wine pairing classes, or sign up for a tour and tasting. Or just grab a box of single origin chocolate from Tanzania or Peru for at-home indulging. 1125 E. Brookside Ave., Ste. D02, 317-600-3776, sochatti.com MOVE Pirouette into Dance Kaleidoscope (8) to experience their array of classes for all ages and levels. The studio aims to foster a sense of community through ballet, jazz, and more. The most advanced students tour the country with the company and perform all around Indianapolis. 1125 E. Brookside Ave., Ste. D05, 317-419-2380, dancekal.org SIP Kick back in the buzzing 8th Day Distillery (9), which offers a tremendous variety of locally crafted rum, gin, and whiskey. Lounge with an old fashioned in hand or grab a bottle of bourbon to go. It’s a perfect place to wind down after a night of First Friday shop hopping. 1125 E. Brookside Ave., Ste. D06, 317-600-3791, 8thdaydistillery.com THROW A hybrid between football and bowling, fowling is a nationwide craze that has taken hold here through 33 Indy 500–themed lanes at the Fowling Warehouse (10). Reserve space for a birthday party, join a competitive league with your friends, or simply walk in for a session of tossing the ol’ pigskin. 1125 E. Brookside Ave., Ste. D09, 317-406-0326, fowling warehouse.com JANUARY 2024 | IM

Detroit, MI DISTANC E

286 miles DRI V E T I M E

4.25 hours

CAN’T FLY SOUTH THIS WINTER? TROPICAL VIBES ARE MUCH CLOSER THAN YOU THINK. BY M I C H E L L E M A S T R O IT’S AB OUT that time when regret over not booking a mid-winter esTRAVELER cape to Florida sets in. All you need is a weekend, though, to get a summery fix in … Detroit. Yes, that Detroit. Your first stop: the Detroit Zoo’s 10,000-square-foot Butterfly Garden (detroit zoo.org) in an Art Deco–era gallery under a glass dome ceiling. It houses hundreds of free-flying butterflies from locales like Costa Rica and El Salvador, along with native flora. One of the largest species on Earth, the indigo-winged blue morpho, is easy to spot. Book a “Breakfast with the Butterflies” for guided interactions before the zoo opens. Head on to the Belle Isle Aquarium (belle isleconservancy.org), built in 1904. It is the oldest aquarium in America and is home

DAY TRIP 30

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FROM ABOVE LEFT: DETROIT ZOO BUTTERFLY GARDEN; COCKTAILS AT TIGERLILY; THE TROPICAL HOUSE AT MATTHAEI BOTANICAL GARDENS.

to all seven species of Triassic Period gar still alive today. It also has one of the largest exhibits of air-breathing fish anywhere. Don’t miss the Outdoor Adventure Center (michigan.gov/oac), a balmy indoor facility full of fresh air–fun simulators, like fishing, kayaking, a waterfall you can linger behind and touch, a stream dotted with rocks to step across, and a path through the tropical treetops. Detroit has a historic tiki bar scene that recently saw a revival, with funky new venues serving up umbrella-topped tropical drinks. In frigid weather, guests in Hawaiian shirts get cozy in these indoor oases. The Beach Tiki Bar (thebeachtikibar .com) is popular for its firecracker shrimp, fish tacos, and signature boils. Mutiny Bar (mutinybar.com) is known for banana bread shots, while Lost River (lostrivertiki.com) builds flights using 150 different rums.

IF YOU GO IMBIBE Dishes, including crab Rangoon and sushi rolls, at the Paciﬁc-themed Tigerlily (231 W. Nine Mile Rd., Ferndale, 248-7334905, tigerlilyferndale.com) are plated in lush style. SLURP Head to the Detroit Water Ice Factory (1014 Woodward Ave., 313-8889106, detroitwaterice.com) to taste Cobo Coconut or Chika Mango. VENTURE Inside Matthaei

Botanical Gardens (1800 N. Dixboro Rd., Ann Arbor, 734-647-7600, mbgna .umich.edu), stroll among pineapple and banana plants and cacao trees.

Visit WOLF PARK in greater Lafayette when smaller crowds and less foliage make wolves, as well as red and gray foxes and bison, easier to spot. Guided tours take place year-round, or you can join world-renowned wolf photographer Monty Sloan for a winter evening photo shoot every other Friday. Book tours at wolfpark.org — C H R I S T I NA V E R C E L L E T T O

COCKTAIL PHOTO COURTESY TIGERLILY. MATTHAEI PHOTO COURTESY ERIC BRANSON. WOLF PARK PHOTO COURTESY MONTY SLOAN.

A Warm Welcome

“STAR BANK HELPS US MAKE OUR BOLDEST IDEAS HAPPEN.” Dawn Langdon From left: Trent Dowling, STAR Bank Central Region President with Emma Langdon, Dawn Langdon and Mary Langdon — three generations of family leadership.

EASTERN ENGINEERING SUPPLY, President

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REVISIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 BREW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 THE FE E D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 PINCH OF WISDOM . . . . . . . 34 FO ODIE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 TASTE TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 REVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

SWOON

PHOTO BY TONY VALAINIS

Dressing For Success A perfectly poised ﬁlet of ﬂaky, buttery salmon sits atop a mountain of crisp winter greens and chopped romaine, accompanied by a colorful array of sauteed green beans, crunchy cornichons, rich olives, tart plum tomatoes, seasoned potatoes, hardy artichoke hearts, and “special” sliced soft-boiled eggs. With a drizzle of their version of classic thyme and lemon vinaigrette, the shareable Niçoise Salad at fresh-faced, post-Bohemian coffee shop and neighborhood eatery Gather 22 is a positively piquant way to start your 2024 without breaking any possible resolutions. It’s a perfect pairing with one of their divine desserts—we promise we won’t tell. 22 E. 22nd St., 317258-2222, gather22.com — T W I N K L E VA N W I N K L E JANUARY 2024 | IM

PINCH OF WISDOM “I’ve learned that it’s important to slow down and nurture creativity. We are all here together. Connections with loved ones and community give life value and teach us about ourselves in this wild and crazy world.”

( REVISIT ) ( N E W B R E WS )

Sweet Dream DREAM PALACE BOOKS AND COFFEE COMBINES OUR TWO FAVORITE THINGS. BY T W I N K L E VA N W I N K L E PE RCH E D for years on the busy corner of 16th and Pennsylvania streets, Thirsty Scholar had the perfect downtown location. With the light pouring through the large, plate-glass windows that steamed up on a blustery winter’s day, it was a go-to spot. Customers were bummed when the doors closed in 2018. Fortunately, Taylor Lewandowski was searching for just such a place when he chose the location to showcase his childhood dream of opening a bright, welcoming bookstore and coffee shop. Dream Palace Books and Coffee is a haven for those who need a place to study and gather with friends. This is the scene Lewandowski seemed to envision when he designed the shop, which primarily carries used, harder-to-find books but also has some new titles from small presses. Browse the shelves a bit, schedule that coffee meetup, and grab the uniquely flavored and funky fig latte. It’s possibly the best inside the I-465 loop. 111 E. 16th St., 317-737-1215, dreampalacebooks.com

THE FEED

Cozy Patio Vibes

Garden Table’s Carmel location features some familiar favorites and brand-new hits. HOT ON THE HEELS of its ﬁrst birthday, this Garden Table addition boasts the same core brunch items, vibrant cold-pressed juices, Tinker Coffee, and cozy vibe as the rest of the family, but with a few key upgrades—namely, an expansive year-round patio, clear vinyl “walls,” and a four-season pergola. In addition to menu favorites such as quinoa breakfast bowls, braised brisket tacos, and the whimsical Rachel From Friends salad, this location has added dinner service. Dreamy Whiskey Cream Chicken comes with wild mushrooms and herb-roasted potatoes. The Garden Table kitchen team continues to change up the food, coffee, and cocktails each new season to keep the whole experience fresh. 350 Monon Blvd., Carmel, 317669-0240, thegarden table.com — A M Y LY N C H

COFFEE & TOASTS The newest addition to Martha Hoover’s Cafe Patachou chain, Patachou at the Stutz, opened in the historic automobile factory downtown. SPICY NORTHSIDE EATS Indonesian restaurant Wisanggeni Pawon moved from a cloud kitchen into the former Sakura Mart off North Keystone Avenue. NEW BOOT GOOFIN’ Duke’s Indy welcomes new owner Patrick Kennedy. — T V

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DREAM PALACE PHOTO COURTESY SCOTT SOLTYS-CURRY. PINCH PHOTO BY TONY VALAINIS. GARDEN TABLE PHOTO COURTESY FIELDMATE STUDIO.

–Nyla Elizondo, master barista at Skosh

Popping Up Happiness THE SISTERS BEHIND JUST POP IN! SERVE UP CHEER. BY T W I N K L E VA N W I N K L E

IT’S HARD TO

believe the little Just Pop In! popcorn stand FOODIE on the corner of Broad Ripple and Guilford avenues founded by twin sisters Mandy Selke and Carly Swift turned 21 years old this past November. Now settled nicely into its new home nestled along the Monon Trail, the business has expanded to all parts of the U.S. through mail order and a location at the airport. The twins don’t seem surprised by their success. “Everyone loves pops,” Selke laughs, using their family nickname for popcorn. Swift, a little more reserved, yet exuding the same enthusiasm, nods in agreement. “Popcorn is essential.” When the sisters moved to Indy in 1999, they settled in Broad Ripple because the cozy, close-knit community reflected the delight and warmth they wanted to share and made them feel like they belonged. “We were drawn to how people here loved it. It made so much sense for us to put our roots down here,” Selke says. Swift adds, “Just the history here ... a place for our kids

to go to school. All of it.” They relocated to their current site in 2018, where they branched out to hosting champagne brunches and birthday parties. “We’ve had this land since 2008 with the dream of building something full of joy,” says Selke. The special gatherings they plan are their way of spreading joy. But “special” isn’t a strong enough word to describe what they create. Recently asked by a neighbor with stage 4 cancer to plan his 64th birth-

day party, the twins say arranging such a significant event is an example of what they feel is their calling. A love of popcorn is in their DNA, instilled by their grandfather’s love of sharing the buttery snack. It’s a tradition that evolved into the multifaceted business they operate today. “It’s not just about popcorn,” they say. “Popcorn is a tradition that symbolizes something that makes us happy and want to celebrate. It’s our North Star for creating happiness.”

FAVORITE THINGS

PHOTOS BY TONY VALAINIS

(1) Local jewelry. “Speciﬁcally Allison

Ford Metals and Sara B. Jewelry + Metalsmithing. We have commissioned pieces for over a decade.” (2) The New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival. “It will be our 26th trip this year!” (3) Dancing. “We love the nightlife! We’ve got to boogie!” (4) Nightcaps. “We love martinis in bed.” (5) Family. “Period.” (Pictured: Selke’s and Swift’s grandmother)

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Smooth Operators

Punch Burger This pad thai–ﬂavored burger takes things in a different direction with Asian-inspired slaw, savory peanut sauce, and a sweet chili drizzle. 550 E. 96th St., 317669-0184, punchburger.com 317-669-0184, punchburger.com

WHETHER THEY’RE OF THE CRUNCHY OR CREAMY PERSUASION, THESE REGIONALLY RENOWNED PEANUT BUTTER BURGERS REALLY STICK TO THE RIBS—AND TO THE ROOF OF YOUR MOUTH. B Y A M Y LY N C H

Half Liter BBQ

Triple XXX Family Restaurant Named for the famous Purdue halfback, the Duane Purvis All American burger is slathered with peanut butter, then piled with chopped steak and all the ﬁxins’. Wash it down with a frosty mug of root beer brewed in-house. Add an over-easy fried egg for a next-level burger experience. 2 N. Salisbury St., West Lafayette, 765-743-5373, triplexxxfamilyrestaurant.com

Every now and then, this popular barbecue spot rolls out a smoky peanut butter bacon burger special topped with roasted peanut brittle, Duke’s Mayo, shredded lettuce, barbecue tomato jam, and poblano. “Most people order it on a dare, and they’re always surprised by the ﬂavors,” owner Eddie Sahm says. 5301 Winthrop Ave., 463-212-8180, halﬂiterbbq.com

TASTE TEST

Broad Ripple Brewpub Years ago, one of the cooks suggested garnishing a burger with peanut butter, cheddar cheese, and bacon. You won’t ﬁnd it on the regular menu, manager Billy Hannan says, but it is always a customer fave when the pub rolls it out as a special. Pair it with the brewpub’s house-made cherry cola for perfection. 842 E. 65th St., 317-253-2739, broadripplebrewpub.com

317 Burger The Elvis-inspired Strawberry Hill tops the patty of your choice with habanero–ghost pepper cheese, bacon, a kicky strawberry jelly compote, and melty peanut butter. The most common reaction after biting in? Shock and awe, followed by hearty contentment. 915 E. Westﬁeld Blvd., 317-251-1317, 317burger.com

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P h o t o b y T O N Y VA L A I N I S

Rosas’ mother, Yolanda (bottom right), warms fresh tortillas for tacos (below) at Julieta Taco Shop, located in the historic Stutz Building (right).

JULIETA TACO SHOP

1060 N. Capitol Ave. HOURS

Tue–Thu 11 a.m.–2 p.m.; 3–8 p.m. Fri–Sat 11 a.m.– 2 p.m.; 3–10 p.m.

Family Dinner

FINE DINING VETERANS GABRIEL SAÑUDO AND ESTEBAN ROSAS BRING CULINARY PRECISION AND THEIR MOTHERS’ KNOW-HOW TO A STANDOUT TACO SHOP. B Y T E R RY K I RT S YOU COULD see it in the lunchtime broccoli rabe and mushroom torta Esteban REVIEW Rosas and Gabriel Sañudo cooked up in the prepandemic table service at Black Market. You could smell it in the slowbraised lamb birria they piled onto tortillas on the patio later that summer as the Mass Ave institution counted down its last days. And you could feel it in the Con Todo popups the pair staged all over the city as they waited for their dream restaurant to open. “A lotta love.” It’s a refrain Rosas repeats often. He opened the tiny walk-up Julieta 38

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Taco Shop in the recently rejuvenated Stutz Building with fellow chef and friend Sañudo late last summer. Ask him what’s so special about the tacos, tortas, and churros that the duo—both French-trained and with cred from places as diverse as Milktooth, Rook, and Meridian Hills Country Club—serves up, and he’ll insist it’s just their mothers’ recipes, the kind of dishes they grew up on. And, well, doing everything right. That means sourcing 50-pound bags of heirloom varietal corn from Los Angeles– based Masienda, cooking it using variations that depend on the corn, turning it into fine masa with a volcanic stone grinder, and

VIBE

Walk-up taqueria TASTING NOTES

Mexico Citystyle tacos and tortas served on handmade tortillas with ﬂavorful house salsas NEIGHBORHOOD

The Stutz Building MUST-ORDER

Tacos al pastor sliced directly from the spit; earthy, rarely seen suadero; and one-off daily dishes such as ﬂuffy tamales, vegetarian pozole, and light, airy churros. 3 STAR RATING

PHOTOS BY TONY VALAINIS

pressing it into sturdy, crisp-around-theedges tortillas in a rainbow of hues, all under the eye of Rosas’ mother, Yolanda, who has spent a lifetime perfecting the process. It means enlisting Sañudo’s mother, Blanca, for the custom marinades for all the meats, including the adobo for the pork shoulder skewered for the shop’s signature shaved al pastor tacos. It means having their fathers slice the meat and wipe down the windows. It also means taking nearly four years from when they were approached by New York–based SomeraRoad, the real estate development firm behind the Stutz Building’s rebirth, to perfect the recipes they first tried out at Black Market. It also took time to get their spartan but colorful 870-square-foot taco shop just how they wanted it, including a late name change that honors Sañudo’s grandmother Julieta, as well as his mother, who has the same middle name. Fine touches overseen by Parallel Design Group include artfully subdued tilework at the counter, funky vintage lighting, and a mural of a skeleton munching a taco in a thicket of cacti and tropical plants. It may surprise other chefs more accustomed to working in sit-down spots, but having just a few stools for tucking away tacos was always the plan. Good fortune had it that Turner’s, a throwback auto racing–themed watering hole curated by restaurateur Eddie Sahm, was planned for next door, so you can get your victuals through the kitchen window under a flashing neon sign that simply reads, “TACOS.” It’s choreographed yet utterly hip. Julieta’s pegboard menu of around a half-dozen daily offerings isn’t a compromise but a promise that everything is as good as it can be. That means anyone who’s had real-deal tacos al pastor will recognize the spot-on char and smokiness of the meat shaved from Julieta’s rotating spit. It’s best enjoyed “vampiro-style” with cheese griddled inside the tortilla, a funky touch Sañudo first saw in Mexico City. Along with suadero (a rich, braised brisket–like beef cut), juicy pollo asado, and carnitas tacos, the al pastor is among the shop’s quartet of standards, and it’s

tempting to stick with them. But the rice and beans are surprisingly satisfying for being meat-free. Sañudo and Rosas somehow coax so much flavor from the roasted poblanos, tomatillos, and aromatics in their vegetarian pozole that you will never miss the chicken or pork. And the careful blending of fats with masa makes their tamales almost ethereal in their creaminess, whether studded with poblanos and Swiss chard, stuffed with a slice of just-melting queso fresco in the middle, or topped with citrusy cochinita pibil.

Crispy shrimp, red snapper, and octopus also make occasional appearances in elevated preparations. Churros, the one frequent sweet offering, are golden and light, served with a complex dark chocolate dipping sauce. For such a small place, Sañudo and Rosas admit it’s a lot more work than they anticipated, and they often prep for the evening using every bit of storage space their kitchen offers. As for franchising the concept, the pair definitely has plans. “But only if we can get it right,” Rosas points out. Sañudo is quick to agree.

Rosas and Sañudo (bottom) knew they wanted tortas (below)—but only with the freshest ingredients (lower left)—and slow-roasted pork shoulder on a traditional rotating skewer (left).

JANUARY 2024 | IM

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WHETHER IT’S A PRODUCT OF THE PANDEMIC SIDE GIG HUSTLE OR THE ULTIMATE EXPRESSION OF OUR LONG LOVE AFFAIR WITH CARBS, INDY IS EXPERIENCING A BAKING REVOLUTION. RISE UP!

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY TONY VALAINIS 40

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EDITED BY TWINKLE VANWINKLE Written by Christiana Bertsch, Terry Kirts, Amy Lynch, Ashly Stage, Emily Udell, and Christina Vercelletto

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W WHEN I MOVED HERE FROM

Mississippi in 2008, bakeries were few and far between—and don’t even get me started on coffee and pastry shops. Being a small-town Southerner, I had great expectations for the “big city.” My high hopes also came from the fact that I had spent much of the ’90s and early 2000s as a pastry chef in a wonderful coffee shop and bakery, pumping out hundreds of croissants and other baked goods every day for a decade. I knew of a few bakeries scaty er ak tered in the far reaches of Indy B ’s ia el but of nowhere to get a fresh croism A sant or a crusty loaf of sourdough within a short walk or drive from my house. It’s funny to look back and remember how desperately I searched for a warm baguette to slather with butter and jam and nom on while I sipped a double espresso. I missed the sound of the warm, fresh crusts crackling as the baker brought out loaves fresh from the oven to serve or put on display. That was the song of the angels. Since those lean times, Indianapolis has become a haven for luscious, laminated pastries and crispy, crusty artisan breads. The baked goods scene has been on the rise over the last 15 years, with dessert and pastry shops and bakeries popping up here and there. Covid gave us a little kick in the hot buttered roll, but ingenuity won out, and home bakers were born all over the city. Many still run successful small businesses, and some even opened brick-and-mortar locations or created booming online businesses. It’s enough to make a pastry lover like me giddy with excitement. From bagels to babka, danishes to sourdough, canelé to cake, Indy’s baking scene proves itself the buzziest for oven-baked perfection. —T W I N K L E VA N W I N K L E 42

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In the early 2010s, Tom Battista started a crusade to supply Indianapolis with the fresh hearth-baked loaves he felt the city was missing. Fast-forward a decade, and this local bread darling has expanded well beyond the borders of its original Holy Rosary factory digs into a Windsor Park storefront and, more recently, a new outpost at the Stutz Building. The bakers still arrive each morning at 4 a.m., kneading and shaping Europeaninspired sourdough, seed-studded semolina, fragrant focaccia, and rustic baguettes. Grab a couple to take home, or snag a table at Bluebeard, Amelia’s sister restaurant, where customers can nibble from a basket of grilled slices served with flavored butters and oils while perusing the menu. 653 Virginia Ave., 1637 Nowland Ave., 1060 N. Capitol Ave., 317-686-1583, ameliasbread.com

BreadWorks at Broad Ripple

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This 2022 addition to the SoBro scene fills the sunny former Locally Grown Gardens space with the wafting scents of baking bread and sweet treats, tempting even the most pious carb-conscious runners and bikers as they pass by on the adjacent Monon Trail. If you can manage to resist the muffins, donuts, and pastries, a hunk of warm baguette or slice of sourdough makes a perfect accompaniment to a hot cinnamon praline latte or freshly pressed juice. At lunchtime, brioche and focaccia provide the foundations for lobster BLTs and Italian hero sandwiches, and breakfast favorites like bacon, egg, and cheese on a croissant or avocado toast on sourdough are available all day long. 1050 E. 54th St., 317-7569224, breadworksatbroadripple.square.site JANUARY 2024 | IM

Cornerstone Bread Company

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A “safe space” for the gluten and allergen conscious.

W H E N HAY LEY MCGI NLEY learned she had a sensitivity to gluten in 2015, it gave rise to an idea. A self-identified lover of carbs, she wondered if a local option to purchase handmade, artisanal bread existed for those with her condition. A quick Google search revealed an unoccupied niche in the market. “I started small, really humble,” says McGinley, who launched Native Bread in 2016 as a side hustle. Armed with library books, she workshopped recipes using trial and error in her own kitchen and then shared them with her social network. “I actually don’t have any background in baking other than having my grandmother—my dad’s mom—who was an incredible baker,” McGinley says. “I grew up eating her treats and watching her be a wizard in the kitchen.” The response to her gluten-free creations was overwhelmingly positive, she says. As the operation grew, she began baking in the ClusterTruck kitchen downtown and later in the former Duos kitchen near the Children’s Museum. In 2018, Native Bread became McGinley’s full-time gig, and the following year she signed a lease on her own production facility and storefront in Castleton. Now, customers can walk in on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays to purchase popular sourdough and honey oat breads, along with other treats. In addition to being gluten-free, all of Native Bread’s scratch-made, smallbatch products are free of milk, eggs, wheat, soy, and nuts. The lineup of goods also includes scones, galettes, cookies, and pints of take-and-bake cookie dough . Food delivery service Market Wagon and other local businesses carry Native Bread products, including Cafe Patachou, Garden Table, and Blue Mind Coffee Roasting. McGinley debuted Native Bread for nationwide shipping last year. 9546 Allisonville Rd., Ste. 106, 317-537-2707, nativebread.com 44

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This downtown bakery supplements four basic building blocks of bread—flour, water, salt, and yeast—with butter, honey, and extra-virgin olive oil to produce around 130 different hybrids of bread for restaurants and food service operations. If chefs can dream it, they’ll figure out how to make it. “In November, we worked with a chef to develop a doner bread for a Turkish kebab sandwich,” owner Cindy Helmling mentions. “He brought back a sample from Germany to recreate and use in a holiday market.” Cornerstone also makes a small assortment of products available to the public through Market Wagon, including a twisted cinnamon loaf, pretzel buns, and Sunday sourdough. Check website for ordering details, 317-897-9671, cornerstonebread.com

Leviathan Bakehouse Any way you slice it, this spacious Chatham Arch bakery turns out fine loaves. Open since July 2020, this little bakery managed to successfully navigate the pandemic, thanks in no small part to a lineup of organic breads made using natural leavening techniques, locally and regionally sourced grains, and unique fermentation cultures. “Ingredients matter, but the most important skill in creating great bread is patience,” says co-founder Matt Steinbronn. Co-owner Sam Blythe created many of the original recipes that make Leviathan loaves not just luscious but also hardy, rich, and soul-satisfying. 1101 N. College Ave., 317-493-1879, leviathanbakehouse.com

Scholar’s Inn Bakehouse This Bloomington-based facility has turned out rustic artisan breads, bagels, and pastries—along with its signature granola—since 2001. Initially intended to be served only at their now-closed gourmet cafe and wine bar in Bloomington’s downtown square, the items are now fairly easy to find at grocery stores and coffee shops around Indianapolis. The secret to the bestselling sourdough, challah, and farm loaves? “Time,” says president Tracy Bruce. “Building flavor and texture is a methodical process.” The sourdough alone requires more than 12 hours to make from start to finish, relying on an old-school fermentation and proofing process that simply can’t be rushed. After all, good things come to those who wait. Check website for details about delivery and restaurant/retail locations, 812-935-6100, scholarsinnbakehouse.com

Bagel Fair 1300 E. 86th St., 317-846-0950, bagelfair.com HOURS: Mon–Sat 7 a.m.–2 p.m., Sun 7 a.m.–1 p.m.

Two generations of a family originally hailing from New York have been using the same recipe for 100+ years. CLAIM TO BAGEL FAME: Burnished, blistered beauties that live up to their Big Apple lineage—just in a more petite size, which is probably a good thing. DON’T SKIP: The cinnamon raisin

bagel with a schmear. INSIDER TIP: You can score a bialy—a cross between a bagel and an English muffin dressed up with onions, poppy seeds, and salt—on Sundays if you show up early enough. 8:30 is about right. WHO KNEW? Ripple Bagel & Deli works their sammie magic with bagels sourced from Bagel Fair.

Sidedoor Bagel 1103 E. 10th St., sidedoorbagel.com HOURS:

Tue–Fri 7:30 a.m.–1:30 p.m., Sat 8 a.m.–1:30 p.m. Owner Josh Greeson, who didn’t know bagels other than Lender’s existed growing up in Arkansas, sharpened his skills working at Amelia’s. He sold his bagels hand over ﬁst via online orders before opening grab-and-go Sidedoor on Christmas Eve 2021. He has been featured in Bon Appétit, among other local media, for being one of the best bagel-makers around. CLAIM TO BAGEL FAME: Sourdough bagels made

with locally grown, stone-ground organic ﬂour. DON’T SKIP: The rosemary sea salt bagel. INSIDER TIP: Available ﬂavors change daily on no

set schedule, so check the online ordering menu to see if your favorite is on offer before you head down. WHO KNEW? The name comes from Greeson’s

BAGEL YOUR PARDON? Three places to get your schmear on.

W H AT M A K E S a great bagel? They tend to be

measured by the revered metro–New York version: shiny and crackly on the outside, dense and chewy on the inside, and humungous and often pleasantly misshapen. While Indy’s standout bagel bakers may riff off their New York counterparts, their own glorious specimens defy that tidy categorization. And that’s part of what makes them great for bagel lovers here in the Circle City.

original Covid-scuttled plan to sell his bagels directly from the side door of Amelia’s.

Shapiro’s Delicatessen 808 S. Meridian St., 317-631-4041, shapiros.com HOURS:

Mon–Fri 10 a.m.–7:30 p.m., Sat–Sun 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m. Family-run for four generations, the ﬁrst iteration of this locally famous spot was in the delicatessen business in Russia. CLAIM TO BAGEL FAME: Sizeable and soft rings

of dough, airier than their East Coast equivalent but still plenty chewy, encrusted in toppings. They take more than 30 hours to make. DON’T SKIP: The marble rye bagel, a cousin of Shapiro’s house-baked, crusty, seeded rye sandwich bread. INSIDER TIP: Arrive no later than 11:30 if you

want to score a classic ﬂavor, like poppy or sesame. Onion, in fact, is usually the ﬁrst to go. WHO KNEW? They’re the oldest single family–owned

Jewish deli in America, in operation since 1905. JANUARY 2024 | IM

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school, and the rest is history. Le Petit Gateau opened in Carmel in November of 2023, a hard-earned dream realized, serving up fresh-baked French pastries, filled croissants, desserts, scones, and specialty cakes. 525 N. End Dr., Carmel, 317-408-5500, lepetitgateaubakery.com

Mamá Inés Mexican Bakery

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Circle City Sweets Cindy Hawkins has been baking for more than 20 years, opening Circle City Sweets to Indianapolis customers 18 years ago. It’s no surprise the little pastry shop sells out every day. Hawkins’ pastries are perfection. It’s been said that if you don’t arrive when their pastry stand in The Amp opens, you might not get what you came for—especially the prized almond croissant. This twicebaked, crispy, marzipan-filled delicacy is worth the early morning wake-up call, as are a baker’s dozen of Circle City Sweets macarons, muffins, and, Cindy’s favorite, canelé—a small French pastry flavored with rum and vanilla, with a creamy cus46

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tard center and a dark, thick caramelized crust. 1220 Waterway Blvd., 317-632-3644, circlecitysweets.com

Le Petit Gateau You’d imagine someone with dozens of state fair blue ribbons for pastries might look a little like your grandma or your great-aunt, but 44-year-old Chris Holland is far from a sweet old granny making pies for the fair. This self-taught hobbyist baker decided after winning yet another competition that starting a business may actually be a good career move— one that would allow him to do what he loves every day instead of just in his spare time. Holland enrolled in culinary

Colorful conchas, danishes, meringues, and more line self-serve shelves that stretch down both sides of the shop. If you come early, you can grab warm cinnamon rolls, croissants, and festive fruit and nut–filled strudel. Friendly staff offer help if needed, but you are otherwise on your own to select a sweet confection with trusty tongs and a silver pan in hand. With three locations from Lafayette to Indy’s west side, Mamá Inés has been a pastry-lover’s paradise for more than 22 years. Rosa Gaeta opened her first location in Lafayette almost 10 years after relocating from Mexico in 1990—when she discovered there was nowhere close to buy the Mexican pastries and breads she so loved. She decided she would have to make them herself. All these years later, the legendary bakery named after her mother Inés is where she and her daughters continue to put out delicious, sweet delicacies every day. 2001 W. Washington St., 317-955-7399; 3822 Georgetown Rd., 317-744-8111; 518 Sagamore Pkwy N., Lafayette, 765-446-2629

Rene’s Bakery If you meander through the tiny little back streets of Broad Ripple Village, you’ll find the hidden gem that is Rene’s Bakery. Owner and pastry chef Albert Rene Trevino arrives before dawn and doesn’t leave until after the sun has been down for quite a while. That’s the dedication that Rene has for his craft. Rolling out hundreds and hundreds of croissants weekly—by hand, no less—he and his staff provide not only flaky, soft laminated pastries, cookies, cakes, tarts, macarons, and scones, but also a wide variety of European artisan breads, including brioche in varying sizes, challah, focaccia, baguettes, and an outstanding multigrain loaf. I recommend getting to the quaint little pastry shop early if you want to guarantee finding the items you are looking for, because they go fast. 6524 N. Cornell Ave., 317- 251-2253, renesbakeryin.com

A Lifelong Love of Layers Manny Torres rolls out his passion for pastry with professional ﬂair.

Pop-Ups Indy Dough Customers queue up for Amanda Gibson’s doughnuts whenever she makes an appearance at a local farmers market, which she does once a month at SoBro’s Half Liter BBQ in winter. Indy Dough has gained a following with delights such as apple fritters made from overnight brioche dough and sourdough focaccia. She also makes vegan old-fashioned doughnuts with various glazes. She doesn’t offer pre-orders or custom orders, but her doughnuts are worth the wait. “I’m always grateful and humbled people line up for the things I make,” she says. instagram.com/indydough

Bake Sale Indy FL

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Cuylor Reeves draws on his childhood in Mississippi and experience baking in New Orleans to make Bake Sale Indy’s Southerninspired creations, including croissants and sourdough loaves. “Our customers are pretty devoted to the pecan croissant,” Reeves says. A favorite on the savory side is the pork and cheddar croissant that draws upon Cajun ﬂavors. Submit a pre-order for pickup before the Broad Ripple Farmers Market or risk ﬁnding your favorite items sold out. bakesaleindy.com

GingerSnapped M E ET MANN Y . He’s the one overseeing the perfection of every croissant, macaron, and delicate danish as the executive pastry chef over all Gallery Pastry locations. He began his culinary journey as a young child, when he learned the fundamentals of baking from his father. After developing a true passion for pastries, he attended Ivy Tech Community College and graduated with an associate degree in baking and pastry arts. From there, he began a successful career at the original Mamá Inés Mexican Bakery in Lafayette, where he worked for three years before transferring to the Indianapolis location. In Indy, he honed his skills as a professional baker, creating beautiful breads, rolls, cakes, pastries, and other custom desserts. In 2021, he joined the crew at Gallery Pastry Bar, building on his experience until he entered his current role last summer, which includes managing production for Gallery’s locations, as well as for wholesale and custom client orders. He has created sweets for Disney’s Lorcana video game launch, built dessert boards and printed macarons for Lucas Oil Stadium’s Colts suites and their Kicking the Stigma initiative, and provided pastries to an array of other local businesses and hotels. With his watchful eye on production, he ensures there are delicate desserts and laminated lovelies in Gallery’s pastry cases from downtown to SoBro. 319 E. 16th St., 4573 N. College Ave., 110 S. Pennsylvania St., 317-820-5526, gallerypastry.com

When Jared Cutler added a tablespoon of salt to a muffin recipe in 7th grade home ec class, his baking journey nearly ended as soon as it began. But he persisted in learning to make breads, cookies, and macarons. After furthering his knowledge at Gallery Pastry Shop and Landlocked Baking Company, Cutler now sells his creations at the Garﬁeld Park Farmers Market, Helm Coffee, and directly to customers under GingerSnapped. “Including fresh local ingredients in many of my goods is what I think makes them stand apart,” he says. instagram.com/thatgingersnapd

Filigree Bakery Intricately designed macarons and bespoke cakes, are a hallmark of Laura Lachowecki’s micro-bakery. The award-winning baker got her start studying hospitality and the culinary arts in community college before working her way up to executive pastry chef at the University of Notre Dame. After relocating to Indianapolis, she did a stint at Gallery Pastry Shop before launching her own brand. Clients now clamor for her creme brulee, cookies, macarons, and brownies. ﬁligreebakery.com JANUARY 2024 | IM

4 Birds Bakery There’s a reason the signature oatmeal maple pecan cookie at this landmark wholesale bakery, operated by Jenna Unrue since 2017, has become a local icon. Its hearty, earthy structure, plentiful pecans, and toasty notes with a restrained sweetness are the consummate snack, whether for a decadent breakfast or a late day treat. Indy popcorn seller Just Pop In! even turned the cookie into an option in its Local Flavor collection. Unrue’s salted chocolate chip, chewy peanut butter, and cinnamon cranberry cookies are also top-shelf, as is the bakery’s generous assortment of gluten-free varieties, which you can custom order on 4 Birds’ websites or grab at local farmers markets and gourmet shops such as Goose the Market. 607 Fulton St., 317-460-8181, 4birdsbakery.com

Salamat Cookies Michael Williams II’s enthusiasm for the cookies he bakes with his mother, Lourdes “Mama Odie” Williams, runs so deep you can sometimes find him promoting them over a sound system at a local farmers market, calling shoppers over to try a sample. One bite, and you’ll be hooked on the beguiling Filipino cuisine–inspired flavors—no better expressed than in the Space Yam! cookie, which owes its moist texture and Technicolor hue to the ube halaya, or purple yam jam, in its dough. It’s balanced nicely with white chocolate chunks and sweetened coconut. Go for a pandan-enriched cookie with earthy coconut and vanilla undertones, or try a seasonal flavor such as chai or pumpkin spice. 8320 E. 10th St., 317-918-7978, salamatcookies.com

Please & Thank You When this Louisville institution imported its cheeky approach to coffee 48

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(don’t ask for decaf!) to Mass Ave this summer, it didn’t just bring its great high-test espresso drinks and retro black-and-white digs. It also brought its legendary chocolate chip cookies, which Food & Wine has called “iconic,” and which the shop ships nationwide. Thick and chewy edges give way to a buttery, airy center with a not-so-subtle undertone of salt. Once you devour one with your latte, you’ll be buying a dozen to serve at your next party or to freeze for later when the urge for the perfect sweet treat hits. 849 Massachusetts Ave., 317-778-5555, wearepleaseandthankyou.com

Vangi Cookies Venezuelan native Angelica Valencia may be just 23 years old, but the young entrepreneur has been baking since she was 13. Now, along with partner Raul Gonzalez, she operates a cookie concept from her home and local markets that specializes in oversized, decadent cookies, many with gooey fillings that Valencia calls “New York–style.” Start with the marbled cookie with a salty sweet Nutella filling, and go back for a four-pack of red velvet cookies stuffed with cream cheese, a Biscoff-based version with white chocolate chips, or a light and crumbly spin on a churro with a creamy center. Order for pickup or look for Valencia at a local farmers market. 305-731-0108, vangicookies.com

Stacco House by Mammamia When Lucio Romani sold his authentic trattoria Ristorante Roma a few months before the pandemic, he opened a cozy gelato shop in Carmel, eventually adding some of his best savory dishes, as well as sweets baked by his wife, pastry chef Christine Jourdan. And while the cases in their shop are filled with an elegant

array of cakes, tortes, and tiramisu, it’s the cookies that are the most charming and unusual, such as the light and crispy Amaretti Amarena with almond flour and wild cherries or the rich and aromatic pistachio thumbprint cookies, buttery and crusted with whole pistachios with a filling of strawberry jam. They’re a colorful addition to a holiday gift box or to your afternoon tea tray. 834 W. Main St., Carmel, 317-740-0113, staccohouse.com

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Read the recipe.

Mise en place: Everything in its place.

I know this sounds like a nobrainer, but trust me—it’s a common bad habit. Many people skip over the ﬁner details, then end up regretting it when their cookies come out too hard, too gummy, or too thin and spread across the pan. All recipes are not alike, so make sure to read the instructions before you start.

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Mise en place is a French culinary phrase that refers to the setup required before cooking. After reading the recipe, set out all your ingredients. Having everything “in its place” keeps you from having to run to ﬁnd things when time is of the essence.

Chill out.

Don’t overdo it.

Chilling the dough an hour before baking is the best way to contain the spread of your dough and enhance ﬂavor. Cut or spoon your cookies out onto your pans, then chill them in the fridge. The cool air lets the gluten strands relax while also allowing the ﬂour to hydrate, making a moister, chewier, and better cookie.

Mixing your ingredients together for too long can create dough ﬁlled with air pockets. This may be desirable in other recipes, but for cookies, you’ll end up having them rise too high, then sink. It also overworks the gluten if you are using wheat ﬂour. Overdoing it will ensure a batch of tough, sad cookies.

Keep calm and eat (better) cookies. Make sure your ﬂour, sugar, butter, and eggs are room temperature by having a dab of patience. Let them sit on the counter for a while and the ingredients will blend together more easily, giving you a much smoother, well-mixed dough.

It’s cool, bro. When you take your cookies out of the oven, make sure to move them from the cookie sheet to a cooling rack within 2 or 3 minutes, if possible. The longer your cookies stay on the pan, the longer they cook, and the harder they get.

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40 different recipes, Pumpkin Praline makes an appearance in the fall, and Girl Scout cookie season ushers in Thin Mint Madness as February segues into March. You’ll also find slices on dessert menus at several northside eateries. 40 E. Pine St., Zionsville, 317-733-8717, mysugarpie.com

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Maria Johnson uses recipes passed down through the women in her family to turn out traditional pies in her Fortville commercial kitchen, sold on-site and at farmers markets. And let’s just say, Grandma Hattie Leota and Grannie Suk really knew what they were doing. Rustic, buttery-crusted fruit options like Maria’s Strawberry Rhubarb, lemon chess, blueberry, peach, and Sherry’s Cherry prove popular during the summer, while fall tends to bring perfectly spiced pumpkin, sweet potato, Winston’s Bourbon Chocolate Pecan, and Salted Caramel Apple variations to the forefront. 230 S. Main St., Fortville, 317-605-9568, generationspie.co

Gray Brothers Cafeteria

Pie Pots & Pans Pie Co. With its reputation for creative spins on traditional favorites, Pots & Pans delights in pushing the boundaries of pie. The lineup of sweet creations changes monthly to reflect seasonality, although Sugar Creme Brulee and apple crumble remain constants year-round, boasting thick, flaky crusts made with European butter and lard from Gunthorp Farms. These babies aren’t strictly for dessert, either— savory take-and-bake pot pies include classic chicken, Thai Chicken Curry, and Green Chile Pork variations. Seek them out at farmers markets or browse the wares at the brick-and-mortar SoBro shop. Just try not to drool. 4915 N. College Ave., 317-600-3475, potsandpansindy.com 50

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Bread Basket Cafe & Bakery This charming Danville eatery sources produce and ingredients locally for its solid collection of baked beauties. The coconut cream and the peanut butter are year-round bestsellers, but seasonal rivals like Pumpkin Crunch and pecan give them a run for their money during the winter. Strawberry rhubarb rules in springtime, and Lemon Sour Cream stands out as a summer favorite. Owner Jinayla Bollman and staff roll out all the crusts by hand, lovingly crimping the edges and weaving lattices before brushing with egg and sprinkling on turbinado sugar for a little extra sweetness. “It takes a tremendous amount of effort and care to create a pie,” she says. “It’s that care that you taste in the end.” 46 S. Tennessee St., Danville, 317-718-4800, breadbasketcafe.com

My Sugar Pie Loyal customers line up for owner Kelly Maucere’s scratch-made classics, like “Mom’s Original” Dutch Apple filled with tart Granny Smiths (the pie that got the Zionsville business rolling 16 years ago), Hoosier Sugar Cream, and pumpkin. But the more unusual offerings, like pineapple, red velvet, Confetti Birthday, and My Elvis PB & Banana Cream, also boast their own fan followings. Among an inventory that claims more than

In a genius marketing move, Gray Brothers positions all of its pies at the front of the cafeteria line to tempt hungry customers right off the bat, making it virtually impossible to pass up a slice of dreamy chocolate cream or tart blackberry before you get to the fried chicken and mashed potatoes. No matter the season, the gorgeous glazed strawberry is always a showstopper, heady with whole berries in clingy syrup and topped with pillowy poofs of whipped cream. Thoughtful sugar-free apple and cherry pies are also available, along with an old-fashioned raisin recipe you don’t see every day. 555 S. Indiana St., Mooresville, 317-790-2191, graybroscafeteria.com

Taylor’s Bakery In addition to serving donuts, cookies, petit fours, custom cakes, butter flake rolls, and other mouthwatering confections, this humble 100-year-old legacy bakes up 9-inch apple and cherry pies daily, branding each with a “T” cut into the top crust. Tart and tangy key lime pies join the lineup in the spring and summer, and Thanksgiving-perfect pumpkin and pecan show up in the fall. Bonus: Customers can find Taylor’s own hand-packed ice cream in the freezer case for one-stop a la mode. P.S. National Pie Day is January 23. 6216 Allisonville Rd., 317-251-9575; 8395 E. 116th St., Fishers, 317-596-2253; taylorsbakery.com

Cake

OU R

Jordan Justice P

OWER

Borage / Zoë Taylor If you have ever popped over to Zoë Taylor’s Instagram page to see her pastries and cakes, you’ll be happy to know her bakery, Borage, is well in the works. Stans will soon be able to come face to face with the cakes we’ve all been drooling over in 2-D form for the last few years. Her passion for flavors, herbs, and design make her culinary creations nothing less than works of art. 1609 N. Lynhurst Dr., Speedway, borageeats.com

The Cheesecake Lady

Bespoke Bakes

Jordan Justice spreads her love of baking around Indy.

ONE DAY, Jordan Justice may find herself whipping up a chocolate peanut butter Oreo cake with racing stripes for a themed birthday party, and another day she may be crafting a dairy-free cardamom pistachio cake with buttercream frosting. It’s what she loves about running JaJustice Bakes, a purveyor of made-to-order cakes and other confections. “I really like being able to make exactly what people want,” says Justice, who runs her microbakery out of her near eastside home. “I have the flexibility to offer a truly custom experience.” She enjoys collaborating directly with clients, allowing her to accommodate dietary requirements and restrictions. “Baking was something I always, in some ways, romanticized,” says Justice, who started making sweet treats with her mom during childhood. When she made plans to move to Indianapolis from Bloomington in 2020, friends Adam and Alicia Sweet, owners of King Dough and Natural State Provisions, invited her to start a baking program. However, the pandemic forced Justice to switch gears, so she began showcasing her baking on social media. “I was thinking I’d see what would happen,” she says. Local businesses began to take notice, and JaJustice Bakes quickly expanded. She also still supplies treats to King Dough and Natural State Provisions. Meanwhile, mouthwatering photos on her Instagram continue to fuel her stream of custom orders from her followers. Justice says many clients are delighted to support a truly local, small business. “My work feels really community-driven,” she says. “I’m definitely making things for neighbors.” Instagram @ jajusticebakes, jajusticebakes@gmail.com

Cassie Smith-Johnson got her start making cheesecakes for friends and family and sharing photos on Facebook. Next thing you know, her creations were in grab-and-go coolers around Indy, and a successful wholesale business was born. Recently she opened her own shop in Butler-Tarkington, where you can grab single servings or whole cheesecakes or attend her curated events. 305 W. 42nd St., thecheesecakeladyindy.com

The Flying Cupcake When Kate Drury opened her first Indy storefront in 2007, it was one of only a few cupcakeries in the country. Now, with four locations, two dessert trucks, and a long list of awards, The Flying Cupcake’s cred is a no-brainer. 4026 E. 82nd St.; 423 Massachusetts Ave.; 831 S. Rangeline Rd., Carmel; 789 U.S. 31 S, Greenwood; 317-396-2696, theflying cupcakebakery. com

Zoë’s World of Cakes Natasha “Lucky” Anderson creates stunning, 3-D specialty cakes. As a sculptor in high school, pastry art seemed a natural path. She weaves sculpting and creativity into what is now Zoë’s World of Cakes—named after daughter. She’s won the Indianapolis Ace of Cakes contest, baked for the Indianapolis Fever and the Indianapolis Pacers, and appeared on Food Network’s Halloween Wars. 2442 Central Ave., zwcakes.myshopify.com JANUARY 2024 | IM

History

in the Making to

An antiques dealer and his partner are restoring their early-1900s eastside home with period-appropriate design in mind.

IM | JANUARY MONTH 2024 2024

Home of the Month

W W

hihihii

a BY BAILEY BRISCOE a

a PHOTOS BY TONY VALAINIS a

H E N FORM E R

high school sweethearts Matthew Bridges and Jessi DiCristofolo reconnected in adulthood and began hunting for a home to share, they pictured themselves buying property in the country. They wanted an old house in an area like Pendleton or Bargersville. Perhaps New Palestine. The east side of Indy? Not on their shortlist. If this sounds familiar to you, it might be because the post-Covid housing market forced quite a few people to become a lot less particular about details like location. However, the couple was not willing to budge on their goal of owning an old home, so they began searching historic neighborhoods in Indianapolis. On an unassuming, narrow street on the near east side, they found their old but new-to-them home. “This place kind of fell out of the sky,” Bridges says, adding that they were actually touring the house across the street when they saw the “For Sale” sign in the yard. It didn’t have a stately street presence, and they could barely see the porch through the overgrown shrubs. But once inside, they were sold. “Walking in, we knew this was the place.” Room by room, the couple is taking the 1912 abode back to its roots through what they call “periodappropriate design.” They explain the stories, character, and quality that come with the home as they walk around the circular main floor. This passion for preserving historic character isn’t shocking coming from an antiques dealer, which is Bridges’ profession. Relying on both his personal collection and his business inventory at Father Wolf Antiques, Bridges outfitted the home in true Edwardian glory. The Larkin bookcase with double glass doors in the living room—which holds too many vintage books and knickknacks to count—can also be found in a circa1910 furniture catalog. Surrounding it are other antique furnishings, such as a pair of green leather armchairs, JANUARY MONTH 2024 | IM

Home of the Month

a Sweet Burley tobacco tin perched on a wooden stool, an oversized silver serving tray, and a large sideboard with lion head carvings. Pointing to the dining room light fixture he’s had in storage for well over a decade, Bridges says he has been a collector for years and admires almost anything vintage. But he doesn’t stray very far from his own unique preferences, which are a little peculiar by his own admission. “I go after what I have an eye for and what I like. I know that others will like them too,” he says with a laugh. “There are others out there.” Some of the oddities in his collection include medical specimens, wreaths made of hair, and taxidermy animals. To make the home more welcoming, he has sprinkled these items among more traditional early1900s accessories, such as oil paintings, a kneeling bench moonlighting as a plant stand, and charming but mismatched transferware dishes. The wallpaper in the living room is a Victorian floral print, which the homeowners describe as “loud.” Pinks, yellows, and greens intermingle against a deep navy backdrop. The boldness might make some people opt for solids in other areas of the room, but not Bridges and DiCristofolo. Instead, they marry printed cushions and an equally loud wall-to-wall area rug. While the couple has an affection for all things old, Bridges is more of a purist, while DiCristofolo’s taste is more eclectic. They’ve each carved out their own areas of the home, something that’s subtly evident in the way each room feels. Her style is a little brighter and a bit daintier. Think a mustard velvet couch in the study, lace curtains dressing the dining room windows, a dress form with a cast iron base nestled into a corner, and brightly colored quilts both on display and folded in stacks. Once the home was mostly decorated, the couple slowly began their detailed restoration work, refinishing almost every square inch of flooring, scraping paint off the hardware to reveal the brass underneath, removing carpet from the staircase to expose the original hardwood floors, and installing picture railing sourced from a local salvage store in the living room. 54

MONTH 2024 2024 IM | JANUARY

RENEWED AND RESTORED

The newly remodeled kitchen was outﬁtted with salvaged light ﬁxtures and modern surfaces that blend with the original character of the adjacent foyer.

Home of the Month

is “It has taken months to restore what previous homeowners tried to mask.” JANUARY MONTH 2024 | IM

Home of the Month

FINE DINING

Period-appropriate antique furniture and lace dressings on the table and windows lend an air of formality to the dining room.

hihihihihihihii Bridges and DiCristofolo also cleaned up the front yard so passersby can see the home and admire their handiwork. Their efforts have spawned a domino effect in the area, with neighbors jumping on board to spruce up their own homes. They even garnered an impressive social media following when Bridges began sharing before and after shots on Instagram. They’re extremely happy with their city dwellings and encourage others to “take a chance on older homes,” as well as underthe-radar neighborhoods. “This is a great community,” Bridges says. “We have great neighbors. We love living around artists and musicians, people who can really do something with the area.” Surprisingly, their home isn’t on Indy’s historic preservation list, but 56

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it doesn’t matter to them. “It has the same significance and importance to us. It deserves to be preserved and protected,” he adds. With Bridges doing most of the work himself—with some major assistance from YouTube—the restoration process has been slow. Luckily, time is the biggest challenge they’ve encountered. Well … and the uneven floors. “Learning things you haven’t done before takes discipline and lots of research,” he says. But in the end, it’s well worth the sweat equity. This past spring, the couple turned their attention to their first big gut project. They overhauled the kitchen, which was previously updated in the 1960s. The goal? Take it back in time while still allowing for modern conveniences and reconfigure the layout for better function.

Gone is the yellowed linoleum. In its place is an eye-catching black and white checkerboard tile. Beneath layers of plaster just inside the doorway, they unearthed the original brick chimney. Half of the walls are now covered in beadboard and slicked over with Glidden Summerwood Gold paint. Pine cabinets were ripped out in favor of a warm white oak option from Limpus Cabinet, and Formica countertops were traded for clean, white quartz. Simple, dome-shaped light fixtures from Tim & Company’s Another Fine Mess architectural salvage shop hang overhead. While the space is still small, they gained more room by rearranging the upper cabinet layout and moving appliances around. They were even able to add a small pantry, along with a whole lot of character.

is “[Our home] deserves to be preserved and protected.”

COLOR STUDY

The mustard-hued sofa in the study plays against ﬂoral patterns in the wallpaper, curtains, and area rug.

JANUARY MONTH 2024 | IM

is “Old houses tell stories, so we don’t mind the imperfections.”

MONTH 2024 2024 IM | JANUARY

COMPLEMENTARY, MY DEAR

Homeowners Jessi DiCristofolo and Matthew Bridges share a common fondness for historic architecture and antique furnishings while putting their individual design styles and preferences on display in the bedrooms.

of the Month

Inside the beveled glass door to the foyer, a 5-foot-tall grandfather clock greets visitors. To the left of the entryway stands a 1900s hall tree. Bridges almost listed it for his clients but decided it looked too good in their home for him to part with it. Adorning the wall behind it are panoramic photographs of various Indianapolis landmarks, accompanied by a collage by local artist Kipp Normand. An upholstered sewing bench rounds out the furniture in this space. Some days the room features a mix of the homeowners’ 80-plus plants, and on others, it serves as a sunny sanctuary for their rescued street kitty. To Bridges and DiCristofolo, the foyer will always be the room where they fell in love with their future home and made the decision to breathe life back into it. Heading upstairs, guests often ask if the portraits along the wall are of family members. They aren’t, but the homeowners joke that they’re “instant family.” The three-bedroom, two-bath home is just enough space for the couple and their pets. After both being single for many years, they prefer to have their own bedrooms, and this also means separate furnishing styles. Again, DiCristofolo’s space brings in loads of sunshine and offers a place to showcase her own artwork—a brightly colored painting over the quilt-covered bed. Next door, Bridges’ dwellings are decidedly moodier. He sourced a “close-to-matching” wood carved bed frame and dresser set like those in his 1912 Sears catalogs. A pew bench and a cabinet house more of his antique treasures. While the couple has done a lot of work since taking ownership, their list of projects is still quite long and includes removing the worn siding and giving the outside a more periodappropriate color scheme. Remodeling the upstairs bath will be another gut job. DiCristofolo can’t wait to replace the shower with a vintage clawfoot tub. Bridges is unsure it will fit up the stairs, however. When the duo is done restoring the eastside home, it will undoubtedly look better than when they first opened its wooden doors. But by their own design, it won’t look perfect. “Old houses tell stories, so we don’t mind the imperfections.”

Home

JANUARY MONTH 2024 | IM

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IM | JANUARY 2024

so,” she says. When Gailey’s four minutes and 30 seconds are up, Fallon rushes over to shake her hand, shouting over the applause, “Oh, my gosh. Oh. My. Gosh. Potato famine skin! Megan Gailey! That’s how you do it.” How does she do it, exactly? The Lawrence Central High School grad who grew up in the Geist area and majored in theater and communications at Purdue University has made a career of zigging where you think she’s going to zag. Since her earliest days in the business, showing up for open mic nights around Indianapolis, Bloomington, and Muncie in her early 20s, Gailey has spiked her wholesome Midwestern charm with unbridled, blush-inducing raunch. She is, in the words of her own standup script, an outspoken “Karen for good” with “resting Confederacy face” who speaks with an unapologetic sorority-girl vocal fry that is “the voice Black teenagers use to make fun of white women.” She gets it. She owns it. She weaponizes the fact that she definitely looks “like someone who has yelled at a Panera before,” and then she spins the narrative on its ear. Not only is Gailey in on the joke, but she will beat you to the punchline. At some point between the intro and the mic drop, she will mention that she hails from Indiana—a Hoosier to her Ranch dressing core. It’s just that she’s not the kind of Hoosier her audience thinks they’re getting.

PG. 62 PHOTO COURTESY ANDREW LIPOVSKY. PG. 63 ENGAGEMENT PHOTO COURTESY ISAAC POOLE; WEDDING DANCE PHOTO COURTESY MANDEE JOHNSON; ALL OTHER PHOTOS COURTESY MEGAN GAILEY

Her PI NST RI PE D BLA ZE R, a silver lamé number with matching shorts, shimmers against the famous cobalt-blue curtain on the set of The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon. In this light and with her signature full-face smile, Megan Gailey looks as if she is actually glowing. She could be a disco queen, an old-Hollywood starlet, or the captain of a girls’ night out in Broad Ripple, all roles that fall well within the range of this Indianapolisborn, Los Angeles-based comedian, writer, and actor whose star is on the rise. But in the clip from Fallon, a YouTube video with a 2019 timestamp, Gailey riffs on being a childless aunt, among “the scariest people alive,” she tells the audience—imagine a woman whose screensaver is a baby she didn’t give birth to. She also jokes about her then-recent engagement by way of a “surprise” proposal in Indy beneath the Michigan Street mural of her longtime hero, former Pacer Reggie Miller—an event that was covered in The Indianapolis Star alongside her original Tweet, “I guess you can make a hoe a housewife,” and blessed by the NBA legend himself with a “BOOMBABY” in the comments. She says she knew her fiance (sports creative agency owner and fellow screenwriter C.J. Toledano) was up to something, because he asked for her dad’s phone number. That, and the fact that she had already designed her own engagement ring. “He proposed to me in a shirt that said ‘Mount Dunkmore.’ Do you think he knows rose gold looks good on potato famine skin? I don’t think

Gailey’s appearance on Fallon might have been one of her biggest breakout moments, but a lot has happened since then. This includes a wedding in Palm Springs that was covered by The Cut, a global pandemic, a baby boy named Conrad, a new house in Los Angeles, multiple writing gigs, and a monthslong Writers Guild of America strike during which she was able to focus on her first passion: stand-up. In addition to filling her calendar with local shows and tours, Gailey co-hosted the I Love a Lifetime Movie podcast with fellow comedian Naomi Ekperigin. Last year, it received a Best Comedy Podcast nomination for The Ambies—the Academy Awards of podcasts. She wrote for the HBO comedy series Pause With Sam Jay, and she created and sold three television pilots, each one with an Indiana tie-in, of course. Gailey currently shares hilariously relatable tales of parenting (but absolutely no parenting advice, she guarantees) alongside dad comics Kurt Braunohler THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID

and Chris Garcia on the I Love My Kid, But … podcast. Their weekly dispatch is described as a judgment-free “safe place for parents to get away from it all,” with episode titles that range from “My House Looks Like Someone Robbed the Double Dare Set,” to “It’s Like Living With Your Worst Internet Trolls,” to “We All Don’t Fight in the Bounce House!” In nearly every installment, Gailey slips in a reference to her own uppermiddle-class childhood. Her dad, Geoff Gailey, is a retired HR executive who worked for companies such as Fisher Price Toys, Solo Cup, and Indianapolis Power & Light. Her mom, Peggy Gailey, is a former nurse who also taught high school career courses. She grew up with two older brothers, one of whom once dialed 911 in an attempt to get himself ungrounded, an anecdote that illustrates the podcast’s tone and thesis that parenting is— and always has been—more akin to the Wild West than polite society. The Gailey family remains very close-knit, still vacationing together en masse with their spouses and children and attending Pacers and Colts games when they’re all in town. “It is my dream,” Gailey says, “for my entire family to sing the National Anthem at one of the home games.” That’s not such a stretch. Gailey herself is an avid sports fan who knows her way around the X’s and O’s. She used to work for the NFL, has written for the ESPYs, and remains the kind of home team devotee who receives promotional merch from marketing departments. In an unboxing video on Instagram, she threw on a Rik Smits T-shirt before opening the package that contained her personalized Pacers Nike City Edition team jersey as her toddler son (whose middle name is Jalen, as in Jalen Rose) adorably cheered her on. She was under the RCA Dome for the 2007 AFC CONTINUED ON PAGE 90

Clockwise from top far right: Though she also writes for television and other outlets, stand-up comedy will always be Gailey’s ﬁrst love; a sweet father-anddaughter moment caught during Gailey’s 2019 wedding at the Avalon Hotel in Palm Springs; Gailey on stage with husband C.J. Toledano, a comedian, writer, and founder of a sports creative agency; making her late-night debut on The Conan O’Brien Show; getting a big laugh on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon; and an Indianapolis marriage proposal beneath the Reggie Miller mural.

JANUARY 2024 | IM

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Aaron & Alex NOVEMBER 4, 2023 • TINKER HOUSE EVENTS

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˃ʿʴˁ ˌ˂ˈ˅ ˊʸʷʷʼˁʺ ʼˁ ʬʣ ˀʼˁˈˇʸˆ

˖˛˘˖˞˟˜˦˧ʟ ˕˨˗˚˘˧ ˜ˡ˦˜˚˛˧˦ʟ ˙˟ˢ˥˔˟ ˖ˢˡ˦˨˟˧˔˧˜ˢˡʟ ˔ˡ˗ ˠˢ˥˘Ϟ˔˟˟ ˧˔˜˟ˢ˥˘˗ ˧ˢ ˬˢ˨˥ ˨ˡ˜ˤ˨˘ ˖˘˟˘˕˥˔˧˜ˢˡʡ

ˀʸʸˇ ʹʼˇˍʺʸ˅ʴʿʷ ʻ˂ˆ˃ʼˇʴʿʼˇˌ ʺ˅˂ˈ˃ ˆ˘˔ˠ˟˘˦˦ ʸ˟˘˚˔ˡ˖˘ʟ ˈˡ˥˜˩˔˟˘˗ ʸ˫ˣ˘˥˧˜˦˘ ʹ˜˥˦˧ ʶ˟˔˦˦ ʷ˘˦˜˚ˡ˦ ˜˦ ˧˛˘ ˖˥˘˔˧˜˩˘ ˗˘˦˜˚ˡ ˛ˢ˨˦˘ ˢ˙ ʹ˜˧˭˚˘˥˔˟˗ ʻˢ˦ˣ˜˧˔˟˜˧ˬ ʺ˥ˢ˨ˣʡ ʹʻʺ ˜ˡ˖˟˨˗˘˦ ˟˘˔˗˘˥˦ ˔˖˥ˢ˦˦ ˧˛˘ ˛ˢ˦ˣ˜˧˔˟˜˧ˬ ˜ˡ˗˨˦˧˥ˬ ˜ˡ˖˟˨˗˜ˡ˚ ˖˔˧˘˥˜ˡ˚ʟ ˣ˟˔ˡˡ˜ˡ˚ʟ ˙˟ˢ˥˔˟ʟ ˗˘˦˜˚ˡʟ ˣ˛ˢ˧ˢ˚˥˔ˣ˛ˬʟ ˩˜˗˘ˢ˚˥˔ˣ˛ˬʟ ˩˘ˡ˨˘˦ʟ ˔ˡ˗ ˠˢ˥˘ʡ ʵ˘˜ˡ˚ ˜ˡ˩ˢ˟˩˘˗ ˜ˡ ˡ˘˔˥˟ˬ ˘˩˘˥ˬ ˔˦ˣ˘˖˧ ˢ˙ ˪˘˗˗˜ˡ˚˦ ˔ˡ˗ ˘˩˘ˡ˧˦ ˚˜˩˘˦ ˢ˨˥ ˧˘˔ˠ ˔ ˨ˡ˜ˤ˨˘ ˣ˘˥˦ˣ˘˖˧˜˩˘ ˔ˡ˗ ˔ˣˣ˥ˢ˔˖˛ʡ ˌˢ˨ ˖˔ˡ ˥˘˟˔˫ ˞ˡˢ˪˜ˡ˚ ˬˢ˨˥ ˪˘˗˗˜ˡ˚ ˜˦ ˜ˡ ˧˛˘ ˛˔ˡ˗˦ ˢ˙ ˘˫ˣ˘˥˧˦ ˪˜˧˛ ˔ ˖ˢˠ˕˜ˡ˘˗ ʤʣʣʞ ˬ˘˔˥˦ ˢ˙ ˘˫ˣ˘˥˜˘ˡ˖˘ ˜ˡ ˘˩˘˥ˬ ˙˔˖˘˧ ˢ˙ ˘˩˘ˡ˧˦ʡ

˂ˈ˅ ˂ˇʻʸ˅ ʵ˅ʴˁʷˆ ʹ˜˥˦˧ ʶ˟˔˦˦ ʶ˔˧˘˥˜ˡ˚ ʠ ʴʡ˅ʡ ʷ˔˩˜˦ ˀ˘˗˜˔ ʠ ˊ˘˗˗˜ˡ˚ ʶˢˡ˧˘ˡ˧ ʶˢ ʠʴ˗˔ˠ ʙ ʵ˘˖˖˔ ʠ ˂˟˗ ʵ˔˥ˡ ˔˧ ʵ˥ˢ˪ˡ ʶˢ˨ˡ˧ˬ ʠ ʹ˔˖˧ˢ˥ˬ ʤʥ ʸ˩˘ˡ˧ ʿˢ˙˧ ʩʧʥ ˉ˜˥˚˜ˡ˜˔ ʴ˩˘ ʼˡ˗˜˔ˡ˔ˣˢ˟˜˦ ʼˁ ʧʩʥʣʦ

*-678 '0%77 ()7-+27

ʦʤʪʠʩʥʣʠʩʨʫʪ ˜ˡ˙ˢʳ˙˜˥˦˧˖˟˔˦˦˗˘˦˜˚ˡ˦˜ˡʡ˖ˢˠ ˪˪˪ʡ˙˜˥˦˧˖˟˔˦˦˗˘˦˜˚ˡ˦˜ˡʡ˖ˢˠ

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Amavi LOCATION

The Sixpence

Organize, Strategize, Compromise INDY-AREA WEDDING EXPERTS OFFER PLANNING ADVICE TO REDUCE STRESS AND ENSURE PEACE OF MIND BEFORE YOUR BIG DAY.

By Julie Young

ou are taking some of the most important steps of your life the day you walk down the aisle. Naturally, you want everything to be perfect. When it comes to planning a wedding, though, every minor detail is a major decision, and it doesn’t take long for couples to become overwhelmed by the process. Fortunately, industry insiders are here to help. They

know how much time, energy, and money go into organizing this once-in-a-lifetime event, and they want to share their top tips to keep your wedding on track while keeping your stress level in check. From booking a venue to ﬁnding professionals who can bring your vision to life, they know about the hidden time-savers that offer convenience and efficiency. JANUARY 2024 | IM

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BUNDLE YOUR BOOKINGS As a backdrop for ceremonies and receptions, a wedding venue must be beautiful, functional, and—above all—available on the desired date. Because so many decisions hinge on the location, this should be one of the ﬁrst choices you make in the planning process. Every venue offers something different with each booking, so it’s important to ﬁnd out what the price quote includes and which options require additional vendors. With 17 acres of rolling hills, a charming creek, and three distinct purpose-built spaces for gatherings, The Sixpence banquet facility in Whitestown specializes in hosting events for up to 300 guests. The Sixpence offers both single-day and weekend wedding packages that include exclusive use of an 8,000-square-foot barn, tables and chairs, a DJ, and caterers, as well as access to all indoor and outdoor ceremony spaces. According to owner Shelby Dempsey, couples who book the venue can also take advantage of a resource portal, which offers a planning guide, as well as a preferred vendor list so that couples can stay organized and enjoy

THE SUNSET ADDS A GOLDEN GLOW TO WHITE RIVER STATE PARK. PHOTO BY ROGUE IMAGE PHOTOGRAPHY.

A COUPLE EXCHANGES VOWS AT THE COLUMBIA CLUB. PHOTO COURTESY COMPLETE WEDDINGS + EVENTS INDIANAPOLIS.

“With our bundling approach you can save anywhere from $50 to over $1,000 on your

the process without getting overwhelmed. “One thing I tell my couples is that a good wedding planner can legitimately save you money,” Dempsey says. “A lot of people are afraid to spend money on a wedding planner because of the sticker shock, but they are worth the investment. A good planner has connections. They know the vendors, and they know who will give you the best value for the price. Above all, their expertise can take a lot off your plate and relieve a lot of stress.” Finding vendors that bundle multiple services into a single package can also help alleviate a couple’s anxieties while saving them money. Complete Weddings + Events offers photography, videography, DJ service, photo booth rentals, lighting, and on-site coordination to help a wedding run smoothly. The bigger the package, the more a couple saves in terms of time, energy, and money.

’

T SA

IP:

“EVERY VENUE OFFERS SOMETHING DIFFERENT WITH EACH BOOKING, SO IT’S IMPORTANT TO FIND OUT WHAT THE PRICE QUOTE INCLUDES AND WHICH OPTIONS REQUIRE ADDITIONAL VENDORS.”

JANUARY 2024 | IM

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CENTERPIECES AND TABLEWARE CARRY A WEDDING’S THEME AND COLOR PALETTE. PHOTO BY JUSTJESS PHOTOGRAPHY.

package,” says Complete Weddings + Events general manager Glenn Smith. “When you have to make a change, you only have one person to notify instead of several. If you have a question, you have one person that is familiar with your event and can provide you a quick and detailed answer. Each of our services is provided by a specialized staff member experienced in weddings, which allows us to

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E’S

IP:

“WE RECOMMEND REACHING OUT TO FLORISTS AS SOON AS YOU BOOK YOUR VENUE, ESPECIALLY IF THE DATE IS IN THE PEAK OF WEDDING SEASON.”

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customize every step of the process to match you and your personality.”

BE FLEXIBLE Although you may have been mentally preparing for your big day from the moment you knew your partner was “The One,” it’s important to remain flexible throughout the wedding planning process. Samantha Soper with JP Parker Flowers says couples often add to their stress levels by attempting to make some of their floral arrangements themselves to save money or insisting on an out-of-season bloom that may be difficult (and expensive) to procure. Because nature doesn’t always allow florists to have the exact color, variety, shape, and height desired on a consistent basis, a professional florist can always offer a similar substitution that will complement your overall vision and look great on your wedding day. “We recommend reaching out to florists as soon as you book your venue, especially if the date is in the peak of wedding season. Each florist has a limited capacity for weddings each weekend, so reach out for a consultation or reserve your date as soon as you are able,” Soper says. “Be flexible with

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CENTERPIECES AND TABLEWARE CARRY A WEDDING’S THEME AND COLOR PALETTE. PHOTO BY JUSTJESS PHOTOGRAPHY. JANUARY 2024 | IM

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the color palette so that you don’t stress if a certain item is unavailable, and remember that we don’t copy other artists’ work. We design according to the style and inspiration, but we do not make an exact copy of the image.”

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IM | JANUARY 2024

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The person you choose as your wedding DJ does so much more than spin discs. As the unofficial host, they are responsible for emceeing your reception, making scheduled announcements, ensuring the smooth flow of your event, and keeping your guests engaged, so it is important to select someone who aligns with your vision and understands the vibe you want to set for your wedding. DJs expect and appreciate couples who collaborate with them and share their musical preferences. By communicating your favorite genres, artists, and songs with personal significance, you help them craft playlists that reflect your love story and resonate with your guests. However, it is important to recognize that your DJ is a professional who understands the limits of what they can and cannot do in a given

THE BALMORAL HOUSE IN FISHERS OFFERS BOTH INDOOR AND OUTDOOR SPACES FOR WEDDINGS AND EVENTS. PHOTO BY JUSTJESS PHOTOGRAPHY.

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A QUALIFIED PHOTOGRAPHER CAN SPOT THE BEST FOCAL POINTS FOR GORGEOUS IMAGES. PHOTO COURTESY THE SIXPENCE.

timeframe. Micromanaging the playlist and over-requesting various songs will only create tension and disrupt the ﬂow of the event. “DJs typically play 15 to 17 songs per hour, so it’s essential to be mindful of this limitation when crafting your playlist,” says Timothy Mellender of Higher Love Entertainment. “Failing to provide a ‘do not play’ list can lead to the unintended inclusion of songs that you dislike or ﬁnd inappropriate.

A E’S

TIP:

“A GOOD WEDDING PHOTOGRAPHER SHOULD TAKE A VESTED INTEREST IN YOUR WEDDING AND MAKE YOU FEEL COMFORTABLE IN FRONT OF THE CAMERA.”

JANUARY 2024 | IM

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Communicate your musical preferences clearly to prevent any awkward moments during the celebration. This collaborative effort ensures that the DJ can curate a playlist that resonates with your unique taste, making your event truly special.”

PICTURE A PERFECT DAY

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A wedding is a signiﬁcant investment with a lot of moving parts, and it’s only natural for couples to look for savings wherever they can. However, a vendor’s value cannot be judged solely by their price point, but it can be judged by how comfortable you feel working with them and how well they understand your needs. Nowhere is this philosophy more important than in wedding photography. In addition to providing couples with lasting images of their nuptials, a wedding photographer is often the ﬁrst to spot stressful situations and diffuse tensions in order to showcase a couple in the best possible light. They also spend a considerable amount of time with the wedding party, family members, and guests to capture both formal and candid moments that will be revisited for years to come. A good photographer should take a vested interest in your wedding and make you feel comfortable in front of the camera. While the cost may be considerable, the extra 10 to 15 percent you spend on the right person will give you exponentially better results, so it’s important to choose wisely.

RED FLOWERS AND GOLD ACCENTS MAKE A STATEMENT AT INDY’S P30 EVENT SPACE. PHOTO BY THE XOXO PHOTOGRAPHY. 86

IM | JANUARY 2024

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OUTDOOR WEDDINGS AT THE INDIANA STATE MUSEUM’S FARMERS MARKET CAFE AND TERRACE COME COMPLETE WITH PANORAMIC VIEWS OF THE DOWNTOWN CANAL WALK, MEDAL OF HONOR MEMORIAL, AND INDIANAPOLIS SKYLINE. PHOTO BY ROGUE IMAGES PHOTOGRAPHY.

Ian Borgerhoff of Ian Borgerhoff Photography has shot between 600 and 700 weddings and still treats each event as if it were his own. From the moment the bride starts getting ready until the last dance, he estimates that he spends anywhere from 12 to 14 hours on-site capturing every moment he can. However, he is amazed how many couples call for a quote without scheduling an in-person consultation or asking to see his full portfolio of work. “That is the wrong way

A E’S

TIP:

“AT THE END OF THE DAY, YOU ARE MARRYING YOUR BEST FRIEND AND CELEBRATING THIS OCCASION WITH YOUR FAMILY AND FRIENDS. IF YOU KEEP THAT IN MIND, THEN EVERYTHING ELSE WILL FALL INTO PLACE.”

to choose a photographer,” he says. “You have to meet them beforehand because it makes all the difference in the end result.” Borgerhoff says he may build a rapport with a couple at a bridal show, then schedule a consultation to get a sense of their needs. The couple may arrange for him to shoot their engagement photos before hiring him for the wedding, but by the time the big day arrives, he’s like an old friend who can remember everyone by name and run interference when hiccups occur. “I have done this for so long that I know the venues and vendors, and they know me. When I see a bride stressing out, I ask how I can help and then, if necessary, make a call to straighten things out. When you invest in a good photographer, the result is a more relaxed wedding day,” Borgerhoff says.

with your family and friends. If you keep that in mind, then everything else will fall into place,” Dempsey concludes. ∏

BALANCE THE BUDGET No wedding is without stress, but if couples start the planning process early in their engagement, establish an informed budget, and negotiate areas where they want to either spend more money or limit expenses, it’s a lot easier to keep the ﬁnances and the pressure in check. “Indy has so many talented vendors at a lot of price points to meet your needs, but at the end of the day, you are marrying your best friend and celebrating this occasion

WARM HUES WORN BY THE WEDDING PARTY COMPLEMENT THE BRIDE’S HOUSE OF BRETON GOWN. PHOTO BY JUSTJESS PHOTOGRAPHY. JANUARY 2024 | IM

SHE’S ONLY JOKING WHEN SHE CALLS IT THE LOS ANGELES OF INDIANA, BUT YOU HAVE TO ADMIT, MEGAN GAILEY’S INDIANAPOLIS SOUNDS LIKE A PRETTY COOL PLACE.

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 63

Championship game when the Colts finally beat the New England Patriots to advance to the Super Bowl. She considered it the greatest day of her life, a proud moment in Indianapolis history that she and her brother witnessed from their family seats seven rows above the field. The celebration afterwards was so sweet, they both cried happy tears. Gailey spreads the Indiana sportsball gospel via comedic yet spot-on NFL video previews and on sports-centric podcasts such as The Greatest, NBA Storyline, and All Fantasy Everything. She takes her self-appointed job as the one-woman West Coast PR bureau for Indy sports seriously, recently posting on the X platform, “I cannot overstate how great it is for Indy’s morale and economics for the Pacers and Colts to be positive news stories right now. Both of those teams play in gorgeous stadiums downtown and downtown Indy needs this boost!” But Gailey’s Hoosier enthusiasm extends beyond sports. She’s known to show some twisted pride as a regular guest on a long list of comedy podcasts hosted by her colleagues in entertainment. When she mentioned on the LGBTQ-focused You’re Making It Worse that she hails from Indianapolis, one of the hosts declared the reveal “such a fun curveball.” On Do You Need a Ride, she discussed her parents’ neighbor and good friend, Tom Griswold of The Bob & Tom Show. She shared the spooky legend of the flooded town at the bottom of Geist reservoir on the paranormal Ghosted! By Roz Hernandez. And on the Los Angeles–based podcast Mall Talk (which is exactly what it sounds like), she waxed poetic about the “heaven on earth” that is The Fashion Mall at Keystone at the Crossing, with its art house movie theater, department store piano player, and dearly departed Talbots Kids shop, where she would get an adorable new birthday outfit every year. She’s only joking when she calls it the 90

IM | JANUARY 2024

Los Angeles of Indiana, but you have to admit, Megan Gailey’s Indianapolis sounds like a pretty cool place. T H E 2004 Lawrence Central class president and 2003 Junior Prom Queen is in the process of planning her 20-year class reunion. “I off-loaded my 10-year,” Gailey says. “But this year, they’re like, ‘You need to do this.’ ... Do people still like to go out in Broad Ripple?” Gailey frets over this task as she wraps her hands around a massive pastrami sandwich at Shapiro’s Delicatessen. It’s the Saturday after Thanksgiving, midway through a six-day trip back home with her husband and son, and so far, they have eaten turkey dinner with the family, attended a Pacers game, hung out with her best friend since childhood, and hit the Slippery Noodle. Last night, they saw a movie, where she was recognized by a fan. “My mom tells me I need a social assistant when I come home to visit. There are always places I want to go to and people I’d like to see while I’m here, so it’s never very relaxing.” Gailey has loaded her tray with potato pancakes, asparagus spears, and a massive double-decker wedge of carrot cake on the bottom combined with cheesecake on top. Clearly, she has done this before. In fact, Shapiro’s has always been one of her favorite spots in town. Her family has been coming here since she was a little girl, an experience so special to her that she picked the bustling downtown landmark as the location for her third grade birthday party. It was an odd choice for a child, but not an unusual one for a child whose parents are transplanted New York professionals who wanted to get the most out of their adopted hometown. Peggy Gailey remembers how all the birthday partygoers’ little eyes glazed over when they saw the cafeteria line. “I said, ‘OK, how about each of you pick out three things?’ So we ate, and then we went duckpin bowling at Iaria’s.” “A lot of the things we did socially with the kids were downtown,” adds

Geoff Gailey. There were trips to the Children’s Museum, meals at the L.S. Ayres Tea Room, and special occasions at The Columbia Club. It’s no wonder their only daughter, who grew up to record a 2019 comedy album titled My Dad Paid for This, would glean comedy gold from such an enchanted childhood. As with most comedy, though, there is a touch of darkness if you read closely between the punchlines. One of Gailey’s earliest sets includes a series of stories about her father’s struggles with alcohol. There’s a joke about how he passed out during the Super Bowl one year … even though he was a big football fan … and he was at the Super Bowl. “That’s kind of a $10,000 oopsie,” she deadpanned during her appearance on The Tonight Show With Conan O’brien in 2015, which was the first time her father heard the joke. “It’s a true story, sadly,” Geoff Gailey says. “And so, I’ve been working on my sobriety with some success, which she celebrates, as all of us do. There are some people who might say that’s not really fit for public consumption. But under the heading of support—it got a laugh.” He maintains that this brand of unconditional support for his daughter’s art encouraged her to create freely. But it’s tricky maneuvering through a life laid so bare for laughs. Gailey knows this. Considering that a joke she told about her dad when she was 23 has stuck with him for years, she wonders—worries, even—that someday her son might resent his role in her comedy. She co-hosts a podcast about parenting called I Love My Kid, But …, for heaven’s sake. And that little guy is an endless source of material. But … “It’s one of my biggest fears. I think about it constantly—what is Conrad going to talk about in therapy?” Gailey says. It’s much easier to think about a different trajectory in which Conrad, like his mom, gets the joke and runs with it. He already knows how to hold a karaoke microphone up to his mouth like a seasoned stand-up comic. Maybe comedy is in his blood, too. If it is, imagine the stories he will tell.

01 2024

R E S TAU R A N T S

new and updated UM I SUSHI & SEAFOOD BUFFET........ 94 HI KARU HI BACHI EXPRESS & SUSHI........ 94 B ONGE’S TAV ERN......... 94

The chunky and creamy tomato soup at Bonge’s Tavern, p. 94, warms the soul on cold nights.

P h o t o b y T O N Y VA L A I N I S

MONTH 2024 | IM

DOWNTOWN INCLUDES Fletcher Place, Fountain Square, Mass Ave, Mile Square

remains as thick as a brick; the produce is still locally sourced; the massive omelets continue to have cheeky names; and the broken-yolk sandwiches are a perennial lunch favorite. 225 W. Washington St., 317V $$ 632-0765, cafepatachou.com

Ash & Elm Cider Co. ++

A Cup of Chai +

CIDERY Ash & Elm’s array of complex and

TEAHOUSE Punjab native Pravy Nijjar’s cozy,

quaffable ciders gets broader all the time, with funky cocktails demonstrating a flavor profile well beyond sweet apples in the vibrant tasting room at the former Ford Assembly Plant on Washington Street. The food pairs beautifully with the drinks, from the now legendary elote fritters made with Indiana corn and cilantro crema to the crispy fried Brussels sprouts flavored with, of course, cider vinaigrette. A thick-cut Cuban and an Italian hoagie with all the meats are great choices among sandwiches, though the pimento cheeseburger with pickled green tomato is hard to beat. But more uptown offerings, such as ricotta gnocchi with seasonal garnishes or a lunchtime bulgogi noodle bowl, showcase how cider brings out the flavors in world cuisines as deliciously as fine wines. Save room for cider doughnut holes lavished with caramel sauce. 1301 E. Washington St., 317-6003164, ashandelmcider.com V $$

funky teahouse, which opened in July of 2023 on a secluded section of Shelby Street in Fountain Square, offers a true taste of Indian-style chai with several different spice profiles. For the genuine article, go for the masala chai, a dairy-forward drink that features ginger, cardamom, fennel, and cloves, equally good hot or iced. Pair that with one of Nijjar’s street food–inspired snacks, such as golden, aromatic samosas or tasty kati rolls (tender paratha stuffed with spiced chicken, paneer, or potatoes). Coffee drinkers can get an espresso or cappuccino, and those avoiding caffeine can go for a spice-infused golden latte, mango lassi, or minty pineapple lemonade. The colorful storefront spot with plenty of original art is as comfy in the morning as in the evening, when Indians tend to prefer their chai. 1028 Shelby St., 317-998-4463, acupofchai.us $

The Fountain Room ++ Bluebeard +++

UPSCALE Restaurateur Blake Fogelsong filled this two-story showstopper with tufted leather chairs, glamorous clamshell booths, marble bar tops, and cascading chandeliers as a tribute to the Art Deco splendor of the restored Bottleworks Hotel next door. Meanwhile, the big-shouldered menu covers everything from fine-tuned steaks and seafood to wild-card winners like a 20-ounce Circle City Cut slab of prime rib, a noble old-school relish tray, utterly decadent French onion soup, and the best Coca-Cola barbecue ribs in town. 830 Massachusetts Ave., 463$$$ 238-3800, thefountainroom.com

CONTEMPORARY Bluebeard opened in 2012,

and crowds still roll in for chef Abbi Merriss’ take on seasonal comfort food. Start with the bread baked next door at Amelia’s—it’s especially delicious slathered with anchovy butter—and build your meal from the everchanging menu of small and large dishes. Fried morels may show up on a spring picnic plate, while winter nights call for a comforting butcher shop Bolognese. 653 Virginia Ave., 317-686-1580, bluebeardindy.com V $$

Cafe Patachou + CAFE The original Meridian-Kessler “student union for adults” continues to draw in the morning crowds and has inspired citywide offshoots, such as this sleek downtown location, a huge hit with the business and weekend hordes alike. The cinnamon toast

Futuro ++ PIZZA Fans of this downtown-ish charmer don’t crave pizza. They crave Futuro. That’s one way to distinguish a standout joint from the places that merely provide a fix. When it

opened mid-pandemic, Futuro immediately grabbed attention with Detroit-style pies. It’s a rare purveyor of thick, pan-cooked slabs characterized by a cheesy exoskeleton and sauce spooned over the toppings so it doesn’t make the airy, porous dough soggy. Followers quickly learned to make a play for the corners for maximum crispy-crust payoff, though the single-sided squares are hardly a compromise thanks to the quality of Futuro’s house-made ingredients, like ground pepperoni and chicken-and-ranch fixings. In fact, you don’t even need all that dough. The thinner tavern-style and gluten-free pizzas are just as impressive and generously loaded. Pre-order a special featuring Smoking Goose or Half Liter BBQ collaborations, add on the big, knobby breadsticks, and dine in (the upstairs patio is the best spot) to take advantage of the deep beer list. The expansion of the plucky storefront, tucked away on an alley just east of downtown, testifies to Futuro’s popularity and embodies the pizzeria’s attitude—big, fun, and original. 19 Cruse St., 317-360-4725, futuroindy.com V $$

King Dough ++ PIZZA Chewy and with just the right flop in the middle, the pizzas here are bona fide craft, from the dough to the quality toppings. A standout is the Stinky Pete with wild mushrooms, gorgonzola, and plenty of garlic and herbs. Burgers, including one made from chorizo and topped with manchego cheese, play surprisingly close second fiddles to the pies. Cocktails concocted from boutique liqueurs and aromatics are reason enough to drop in, and they make for perfect sippers while you wait for your pie on the patio. 452 N. Highland Ave., 317602-7960, kingdoughpizzas.com V $$

Livery ++ LATIN This place feels like a hidden urban treasure, especially when the mezcal cocktails are flowing and the partially open kitchen is sending out plate after plate of contemporary Latin-inspired fare. Favorites have included a salad tucked inside a folded manchego crisp, meltingly tender steak fanned over a block of polenta, and a silky tres leches cake

key NORTHWEST p. 95

College Park Lafayette Square 465

96TH STREET

MERIDIAN STREET

DOWNTOWN p. 92 Fletcher Place Fountain Square Mass Ave Mile Square

Carmel Fishers Noblesville Westﬁeld Zionsville

NORTH SUBURBAN p. 94

NORTHEAST p. 94

465

Broad Ripple Meridian-Kessler

38TH STREET

WEST p. 95

10TH STREET

Brownsburg Eagle Creek

EAST p. 93 465

SOUTH SUBURBAN p. 95 Bargersville Greenwood

IM | JANUARY 2024

70 31

Beech Grove Irvington Windsor Park

SYMBOLS Brunch Outdoor seating Reservations V Vegetarian friendly

$$$$ $30 and up $$$ $20–$30 $$ $10–$20 $ Under $10

+++ Excellent ++ Very Good + Good

NEW

Recently opened establishment.

ADDED

Open for more than ﬁve months but making its ﬁrst appearance in the guide.

UPDATED

Recently revisited and reevaluated.

Restaurants included in this guide are selected at the discretion of the Indianapolis Monthly editorial staff based on food quality, innovation, atmosphere, service, value, and consistency. IM does not accept advertising or other compensation in exchange for dining coverage. Price symbols indicate the average cost of a meal per person (without tax, tip, or alcohol). Due to limited space, this list does not cover every evaluated restaurant. For a more comprehensive guide to Indianapolis dining, visit IndianapolisMonthly.com/Dining. Feedback? Please email TheDish@IndianapolisMonthly.com.

that is to die for. Snag a spot on the upperlevel deck for a real treat. 720 N. College Ave., 317-383-0330, livery-restaurant.com $$

Love Handle ++

martini, a shrimp cocktail with that notoriously hot sauce, the bean soup or tomato juice, the wedge, and one of the legendary steaks. 127 S. Illinois St., 317-635-0636, stelmos.com $$$$

SANDWICHES Daily lunch and brunch features

Tinker Street ++

such as schnitzel and waffles and a pulledchicken Hot Brown are the main draw at Chris and Ally Benedyk’s cheeky sandwich shop. The chalkboard menu also offers side options in the form of braised greens and potato salad with roasted tomatoes. 877 Massachusetts Ave., 317-384-1102 $$

NEW AMERICAN Reservations are a must, so snag whatever date you can get and hope for a warm night and a seat on the twinkling patio. Then settle in for small plates such as surprisingly light and flavorful chickpea ravioli with vegan ricotta and a host of colorful garnishes. Or try one of the vegan soups or a seasonal salad, such as a refreshing mix of greens with asparagus, pickled rhubarb, and tangy blue cheese. 402 E. 16th St., 317-925V $$$ 5000, tinkerstreetrestaurant.com

Milktooth +++ BRUNCH This diner-style cafe has a playfully

gritty vibe. The early morning counter service featuring pastries and coffee gives way to a full-service brunch menu with daytime craft cocktails. 534 Virginia Ave., V $$ 317-986-5131, milktoothindy.com

Modita ++ ASIAN-INSPIRED The lavish restaurant in

Bottleworks District’s showpiece slot gets extra style points for its gorgeous industrial-sleek decor that is equal parts silk wallpaper and factory-grade doors. Sip a Singha or a citrusy Tokyo Exchange Rate under the glow of dangling pendants and soak up the thoughtfully preserved vintage vibe. 850 Massachusetts Ave., 317-316-0470, modita.com $$$

Nesso ++ ITALIAN Highly stylized seafood and meats paired with small pasta courses and shared a la carte sides add up to a sumptuous dining experience inside The Alexander hotel. Pass around a plate of prosciutto-wrapped prunes or crab arancini, but keep the tortelloni and sea bass all to yourself. 339 S. Delaware St., 317-643-7400, nesso-italia.com $$$

Nowhere Special ++ COCKTAIL BITES Opened in the erstwhile

subterranean home of The Libertine on Mass Ave in late June of 2023, Dan Cage’s funky cocktail lounge and small bites spot is far from its all-too-modest name. Sleek banquettes in earthy greens and brushed brass tabletops provide an elegant backdrop to classic pours and a host of new elixirs created by the talented bar staff. Try the light and fruity Love Island with passion fruit liqueur, tangy citrus cordial, and bubbles. Surprisingly generous small plates include a bright, crunchy Asian-inspired smashed cucumber salad and an earthy wood ear mushroom salad that’s meaty and satisfying. Hearty beef dumplings with chili crisps and a soy dipping sauce are a highlight, as is the luxe mushroom butter on the bread plate. A nicely restrained bread pudding with a good hit of salt in a warm caramel sauce is a knockout of a finale that won’t weigh you down on a night of barhopping— or bar-staying. 608 Massachusetts Ave. $$

St. Elmo Steak House ++ STEAKHOUSE Since 1902, this stately house

of red meat has served as the unofficial ambassador of downtown Indianapolis—the walls carry decades’ worth of celebrity photos, the burnished bar hearkens to an earlier era, and the servers remain starched and bow-tied. The drill remains the same, as well: a generous

Vicino ++ ITALIAN More than filling the need for a bona

fide Italian restaurant on Mass Ave, this modern, colorful trattoria from the owners of The Oakmont measures up to some of the best Mediterranean spots anywhere in the city. New seating and light fixtures add a brighter palette to the sleek former Hedge Row location, and a nicely edited menu offers familiar classics with a few twists for the more daring. Starters are a must, with generous sweet and meaty garlic shrimp and mushroom-studded arancini starring on the short list. Pizzas are a solid bet, with a nice char from the in-house brick oven, and pastas are solid, with little additions such as a raw egg yolk and truffle oil in the not-too-unorthodox carbonara. But crispy, al dente fried gnocchi with pulled chicken and pesto are a standout, as is the branzino with a golden sear and thick slices of eggplant and zucchini topped with a tangy tomato chutney. Well-mixed cocktails are no surprise given the restaurant’s pedigree. And tiramisu lovers will enjoy the creamy, restrained version here, spiked with spiced rum and topped with playful coffee caviar, though orange zest–dusted Bombolini with Nutella are hard to top. 350 Massachusetts Ave., $$$ 317-798-2492, vicinoindy.com

EAST INCLUDES Beech Grove, Irvington, Windsor Park

10th Street Diner ++ VEGAN Surprisingly familiar and hearty plantbased takes on diner classics occupy the entire menu at this rehab of a former pawn shop, a comfy backdrop for enjoying such tasty fakeouts as a gooey seitan Reuben, a “chicken” pot pie, and chili that rivals your favorite con carne version. 3301 E. 10th St., 463-221-1255 V $$

Baan Thai Bistro ++ THAI Roxanna Williams’ cozy Thai eatery,

which she opened in a former house and hair salon in late spring of 2023, is a welcome addition to Wanamaker’s dining offerings, bringing aromatic flavors and artful presentations to dishes like the lightly breaded and fried Son-in-Law Eggs (Kai Look Keuy), which is drizzled with earthy-sweet tamarind sauce, and generous summer rolls that come with a trio of tangy dipping sauces. Less expected shareable starters include rich

and flavorful Isan Thai Sausage with just the right amount of spice, served with a not-too-hot dipping sauce and a darling bamboo basket of sticky rice; a Crispy Rice Salad that crackles and pops; and airy steamed dumplings. Hearty Boat Noodle Soup and Crispy Pork Belly Ramen with a light mushroom-scented broth are good bets for main dishes, as are the kicky Crying Tiger Steak and more typical curries and noodle dishes. Adventurous diners will want to try one of three fish dishes redolent of ginger and basil, and a funky mix of whole chicken drumsticks and sweet curry noodles make for a comforting supper. 8705 Southeastern V $$ Ave., 317-759-8424, baanthaibistro.com

Beholder +++ CONTEMPORARY You never know what to expect from restaurateur Jonathan Brooks’ Windsor Park kitchen, aside from one of the most innovative and well-executed meals in town. The menu is difficult to track, mainly because Brooks builds his dishes around seasonal ingredients that are fresh and of-the-moment. Impeccable servers will guide you through the evening’s offerings, which start small at the top of the menu (fresh oysters, perhaps, or pork rinds with kimchi and chicken liver mousse) and bulk up toward the bottom (think wild boar Bolognese or a massive pork Wellington for two). Finish with the most exotic flavor of house-made ice cream. 1844 E. 10th St., V $$$$ 317-419-3471, beholderindy.com

Chopped Cheese Boys + DELI FOOD New York’s beloved bodega snack

is the eponymous specialty at this no-frills Irvington convenience store and takeout deli. True to form, well-seasoned ground beef gets chopped on a sizzling flattop, then pressed into a sub sandwich roll and topped with plenty of gooey cheese and mayo, which makes for a rich and flavorful mashup of the smashburger and a Philly cheesesteak. Equally good are crispy fries on the side, especially when seasoned with a shake of lemon pepper. But be sure to dip into the eye-popping menu of wings, chicken tenders, fried fish, and—another Big Apple food cart favorite—chicken over rice (tender grilled chicken breast meat with a signature white sauce slathered over rice). Try it with lamb, as well, or go meatless with falafel. Fresh fruit smoothies are a must, such as the thick and not-too-sweet Red Storm with strawberries, raspberries, and mango nectar. 1520 N. Arlington Ave., 317-377-4951, chopped-cheeseboys.business.site $$

Natural State Provisions ++ CASUAL Customers order at the counter and find a table inside this former microbrewery reinvented as an endearingly kitschy eatdrinkery. The food is rooted in homestyle Arkansas cooking from co-owner Adam Sweet’s native state, heavy on the deep-frying and sweet tea brining. Order a Sling Blade cocktail, get a side of collard greens with your fried bologna sandwich, and don’t miss the daily soft serve ice cream flavor. 414 Dorman St., 317-492-9887, naturalstateprovisions.com $$

Open Kitchen + NEW AMERICAN Breakfast specialties, such as light-as-air French toast, biscuits and gravy, and eggs Benedict lavished with crab and avocado, are stars on the menu at the

JANUARY 2024 | IM

new location of Dexter and Toni Smith’s cheery eatery in the former home of Jailbird near the University of Indianapolis. But lunch and dinner are equally respectable, especially a generous shrimp po’ boy or a crispy chicken sandwich with peppered bacon, onion rings, and barbecue sauce with your choice of spice level. More substantial entrees include a grilled pork chop with apple chutney or salmon with wild rice and sauteed broccoli, with elevated touches owing to Dexter Smith’s Chef’s Academy pedigree. After operating mainly as a carryout spot on North Sherman and later in Little Flower, this location comes with a full bar, which means cocktails—such as the creamy, floral Respect Your Elders with bourbon, elderflower, and lemon—are a must. 4022 Shelby St., 317- 974-9032, opennkitchen.org $$

authentic taste of each cuisine. Their effort pays off in traditional comfort dishes such as feijoada (a meaty bean stew served with steamed rice, orange slices, and a sprinkle of farofa), a layered escondidinho de frango reminiscent of shepherd’s pie, and fragrant carne asada served with Mexican onions and guacamole. Dishes are served with both Mexican and Brazilian hot sauces, each with their own brand of afterburn. Gorgeously jiggly flan is the star of the dessert course. 834 E. 64th St., 317-377-4779 $$

are greeted just inside the door with a full sushi bar cranking out vibrant raw fish in every configuration, including flanks of smokey unagi on sticky rice and tiny saucers of fish roe offered up like condiments. Piles of steamed crustaceans await cracking, and you can create your own ramen combo. Dim sum gets its own section of dumplings and sticky chicken feet. And milky boba teas in already-sealed cups sweeten the deal. 6304 E. 82nd St., 317-350-8888, umibuffet.com $$$

Festiva ++

NORTH SUBURBAN

NORTHEAST

Hikaru Hibachi Express and Sushi +

MEXICAN This lively Latin spot on the east side

puts a gourmet flourish on south-of-the-border fare. The menu includes tacos, plus an old favorite: poblanos stuffed with chorizo and queso. 1217 E. 16th St., 317-635-4444, festivaindy V $$ .com

9th Street Bistro +++ JAPANESE While not for sushi purists— NEW

INCLUDES Broad Ripple, Meridian-Kessler

Baby’s + BURGERS This playful, family-friendly joint limits its menu to smashburgers, broasted chicken, milkshakes (spiked or not), and cocktails. Housed in a former drag show bar, it also has fun with the building’s artsy legacy—the house burger is called a Strut Burger, and all of the cocktail names come straight from the RuPaul meme factory. Sip a Tongue Pop or a Sashay Away as you polish off the last of the Talbott Street Style fries dressed with bacon, cheese sauce, white barbecue sauce, and pickled jalapeño. 2147 N. Talbott St., V $$ 317-600-3559, babysindy.com

the most popular roll is NY strip steak, and many others are deep-fried, heavy on mayo and sweet sauces, or feature baked fish—this unimposing eatery in the former Hellas location does what it does well. Onion soup is piping hot, bright, and bolstered with bits of mushroom. Seaweed salad is dotted with red pepper and cucumbers. Forkful after forkful of savory veggie fried rice is fluffy, needing not a drop of the accompanying Yum Yum Sauce. Shrimp tempura is wonderfully light and crunchy. Flavorful chicken hibachi includes aromatic wedges of just-soft-enough sweet potato. When you dine in, know that you’re supposed to place (and pay for) your order at the register before you sit down. 8501 Westfield Blvd., 317-552-2988, hikarunora.com V $$

Late Harvest Kitchen ++ Chicken Scratch ++

CONTEMPORARY A luscious comfort food menu

SOUL FOOD Chef Tia Harrison’s second,

delivers top-shelf versions of family-table dishes, such as chunked kielbasa (on a base of mustard spaetzle browned in dill butter) and braised short ribs. 8605 River Crossing Blvd., 317-663V $$$ 8063, lateharvestkitchen.com

mostly carryout spot on Keystone Avenue streamlines the menu to the bestsellers from her original Chef Tia and Co. location on West Washington Street. Meaty, tender wings with a variety of sauces and spice levels, as well as earthy, dressed-up fries, cover most of the menu here. But that’s more than enough for a delectable Cajun-inflected feast. Signature honey hot wings, either naked or breaded for extra crunch, come customized with the amount of sauce you want. And fries are available with a simple toss of truffle seasoning and parmesan or dressed up to entree status with chipotle steak or shrimp and Alfredo sauce. Sandwiches, such as a “scratch” burger, as well as a few salads and pastas, complete the offerings. 5308 N. Keystone Ave., 317-426-3457, chickenscratchindy.com $$

Diavola + PIZZA Pies emerge expertly bubbled and charred from a centerpiece brick oven. Ingredients are simple but top-shelf, including homemade meatballs, spicy sopressata, smooth clumps of fior di latte, and torn basil. 1134 E. 54th St., 317820-5100, diavola.net V $$

Nicole-Taylor’s Pasta + Market + Backroom Eatery ++ MEDITERRANEAN Since taking over Tony and

Rosa Hanslits’ beloved SoBro pasta market, lunch cafe, and private dining spot in July of 2023, chef Erin Kem and partner Logan McMahan have brought their deep affection for Mediterranean flavors to a lunchtime menu that features an assortment of house pastas with seasonal additions. Creative sandwiches and salads draw on McMahan’s talent with plant-based cuisine, which, along with the market’s egg-free pasta, have made the shop a bona fide vegan destination. An ever-changing selection of ready-to-eat, deli, and gourmet options make this a great spot to stop for quick supper ideas. And Kem brings her years of experience in the kitchens of local restaurants and in the thick of private events to the market’s highly indemand small group dinners. 1134 E. 54th St., 317-257-7374, nicoletaylorpasta.com V $$

Fernando’s ++ MEXICAN / BRAZILIAN With their combined Mexican and Brazilian backgrounds, the couple that runs this cozy restaurant in the heart of Broad Ripple set out to provide a rare,

IM | JANUARY 2024

INCLUDES Carmel, Fishers, Noblesville, Westfield, Zionsville

Umi Sushi & Seafood Buffet + NEW

BUFFET The sheer volume of all-youcan-eat food offered at this Castleton feed house is most impressive. Diners

BISTRO In a snug cafe off Noblesville’s town square, owners Samir Mohammad and Rachel Firestone Mohammad create meals worth lingering over, from a lamb shank slow-smoked to buttery tenderness and served on top of fresh pappardelle to a house-made burrata that makes several appearances on the menu. The rotating Fried Thing of the Day (from tofu to artichoke hearts) should not be missed. 56 S. 9th St., Noblesville, 317-774-5065, 9thstbistro.com $$$

1933 Lounge ++ STEAK AND COCKTAILS This clubby cocktail

lounge offers a younger, sexier take on its fine dining parent, St. Elmo Steak House. The twist here is that the black-vested servers deliver the oysters Rockefeller and 45-day dry-aged ribeyes to diners tucked into noir-lit corners, where no one can see their faces melt into a brief ugly-cry at that first bite of incendiary shrimp cocktail. The Yard at Fishers District, $$$ 317-758-1933, 1933lounge.com/fishers

Anthony’s Chophouse ++ STEAKHOUSE The interior of this swanky heavy hitter along Carmel’s Main Street has the polished gleam of a new Vegas hotel, with an upper-level lounge containing the salvaged mahogany bar from The Glass Chimney, another fine dining legend. The food has equal flourish. Lobster bisque with a hunk of tempura-fried meat begins a meal that might include a cowgirl ribeye, a flight of filets, or a domestic wagyu burger. Black-suited servers and well-composed cocktails keep the high-dollar meal running smoothly. 201 W. Main St., Carmel, 317-740$$$$ 0900, anthonyschophouse.com

Bonge’s Tavern ++ AMERICAN Opened in the 1930s near the ADDED

rush of the White River and purchased by Charles Bonge a little over 10 years later, Bonge’s Tavern has been a part of Indiana dining history for more than 90 years. In the fall of 2023, Burgess Restaurant Group purchased it and installed Dean Sample as executive chef. The star of the menu is still the signature tenderloin, appropriately named the Perkinsville Pork. Other favorites include a stuffed duck breast and a fresh fish entree. Make sure to grab a reservation long before you plan to go, and arrive early enough to tailgate in the parking lot with other diners—a Bonge’s tradition worth keeping.

9830 W. 280 N, Perkinsville, 765-734-1625, bongestavern.com $$$

Cheeky Bastards ++ ENGLISH Co-owners Michael Rypel and chef Robert Carmack fell in love with British culture and cuisine during travels abroad. Their Geist restaurant is a true tribute to the food, serving not only a classic full English breakfast and sausage rolls made with imported meat, but also a very convincing fish and chips featuring crispy planks and hand-cut potatoes. 11210 Fall Creek Rd., 317288-9739, cheekybastardsrestaurant.com $$

Field Brewing ++ BREWPUB This Westfield addition to the local

craft brewery scene would be dazzling enough for its mod fixtures and bocce ball court that spans the family-friendly outdoor space, but the menu is as daring as it is easy to pair with the house brews. The kitchen skillfully prepares standout dishes, such as tender lamb ribs with chimichurri and deeply caramelized Brussels sprouts with hunks of bacon that are some of the best in town. 303 E. Main St., Westfield, V $$$ 317-804-9780, fieldbrewing.com

The HC Tavern + Kitchen ++

menu truly shines, with crispy eggplant and kale fritters, deeply aromatic Chicken 65, and true-to-their name Juicy Drums of Heaven. Less-known dishes, such as chettinad—equally good with chicken, seafood, or lamb—are great bets. Breads are a must here, especially chewy, crisp garlic naan. These dishes fall somewhere between flavors of India and from farther east. A full menu of wines and cocktails pair nicely with the spicy, aromatic dishes on offer. 1454 W. 86th St., 317-884-6982, amaraindy.com $$

The Loft Restaurant + FINE DINING With its pastoral setting on the

grounds of an artisanal dairy farm, Traders Point Creamery’s farmstead restaurant (housed in one of several restored historic barns) feels like a working model for farmto-table dining. Some of the ingredients on executive chef Jon Warner’s menu are grown on-site, and it would be a shame to pass on the charcuterie board, an appetizer featuring the creamery’s award-winning cheeses and locally cured meats. Niman Ranch steaks, seasonal fish, and house-made yeast rolls are always solid choices, as is the burger made with 100-percent grass-fed beef. For dessert, go a la mode. 9101 Moore Rd., Zionsville, 317-733V $$$ 1700, traderspointcreamery.com

CONTEMPORARY The term “tavern” hardly

captures this swank addition to the Huse Culinary Group/St. Elmo family. A hit among starters is the Lobster “Cargot” with lumps of lobster meat in garlic butter and melted havarti. Chops include the supper club darling steak Diane with mushroom cream sauce and horseradish mashed potatoes, though equally regal is the wagyu meatloaf enriched with pork and veal, sauced with a truffle mushroom demi-glace. The Yard at Fishers $$$ District, 317-530-4242, atthehc.com

The Monk’s + INDOCHINESE Popularized during the British

Empire in Calcutta, the aromatic fusion cuisine known as Indochinese food takes the stage at this stylish Houston-based franchise that opened in the summer of 2023 just off Main Street in Carmel. Starters, such as paneerstuffed steamed dumplings, juicy chicken drumsticks, samosas, and spring rolls, are a must. For the true experience, try one of the wok-cooked dishes labeled Chinese, or go for delicate Hakka noodles or fried rice with either burnt garlic or masala. House-made desserts include a small case of pastries and a version of the popular gulab jamun with rose preserves. Most dishes start at medium, so be sure to ask for your preferred spice level. 13080 Grand Blvd., Carmel, 317-564-8266, monkscarmel.com V $$

NORTHWEST INCLUDES College Park, Lafayette Square

Amara ++

SOUTH SUBURBAN INCLUDES Bargersville, Greenwood

SmockTown Brewery + BREWERY Brother-in-law duo Mark Sublette and Ken Johnson’s Old Town Greenwood brewery and Attic Hardware walk-up speakeasy do double duty for day drinking ambers and porters or sipping old fashioneds on the second-story veranda. Hot Pink Pepper Catering adds some beer-worthy eats, including snackable fried pickle spears with a kicky dipping sauce, pretzel bites with Scottish ale beer cheese, and a meaty flatbread. 223 W. Main St., Greenwood, 317-215-4836, smocktown.com $$

WEST INCLUDES Brownsburg, Eagle Creek

Che Chori + ARGENTINEAN Marcos Perera-Blasco’s colorful

drive-thru restaurant offers a delectable introduction to Argentinean street food. A selection of traditional butterflied-sausage sandwiches and warm empanadas filled with seasoned meats are the focus of the menu. Don’t overlook the cook-at-home sausages, from Spanish-style chorizo to rich Argentinean black sausage. 3124 W. 16th St., 317-737-2012, chechori.com $$

Antilogy +

Hoosier Roots +

BRUNCH AND COCKTAILS This snug corner

COMFORT Blink and you might miss this gem

spot divides its energy between the morning meal and evening libations. Early birds can choose from thoughtful combinations of fat biscuits, sunny eggs, bourbon-candied bacon, and Belgian waffles, with plenty of Bovaconti Coffee–based lattes and mochas to kick-start the day. In the evening, the menu shifts to shareable plates, such as a panko-crusted crispy burrata, parmesan truffle fries, and a molten spinach-Gruyère dip. 5867 N. State Rd. 135, Greenwood, 317-530-5312, antilogycg.com $$

serving family-style mains and side dishes in a roadhouse setting. Chef and owner Greg Steller runs the tiny kitchen, serving shareable portions of house-smoked salmon, herb-crusted roast beef, beer can chicken, and other ribsticking classics. 26 E. Main St., Pittsboro, 317892-0071, hoosierrootscatering.com $$

Mr. Patakon + COLOMBIAN The name of Diana Moreno and

Brenda Sánchez’s festive, authentic Southside Colombian eatery comes from the popular Latin and South American dish patacones—flattened, fried plantains filled with everything from shredded barbecue chicken criollo to cheese, corn, and shredded beef. But more familiar fare includes colorfully conceived hot dogs like the Super Perro, which is topped with every meat in the kitchen, quail eggs, and a special house sauce. Mazorcada (heaps of sweet corn topped with meats, cheeses, and potato sticks) is a delectably novel side dish. Fruit drinks and desserts, especially obleas (wafer cookies filled with dulce de leche and cheese), are worth the extra calories for a flavor experience like no other in the city. 7415 U.S. 31, 317-692-9829, mrpatakon.com $$

Rick’s Cafe Boatyard + SEAFOOD You don’t have to be a Parrothead

to appreciate the pontoon-life allure of Eagle Creek’s waterside restaurant, with its breezy dining room on stilts over the Dandy Trail boat slips. The menu gets creative with all of the casual dining tropes, mixing smoked salmon nachos and chicken cordon bleu fingers in with the jumbo shrimp martinis. 4050 Dandy Trail, 317-290-9300, ricksboatyard.com $$$

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INDIAN Innovative restaurateur and Aroma

owner Vinita Singh converted the popular northside tavern Smee’s Place to her third Indian eatery in late 2022, offering an ambitious and artfully executed menu of dishes from around South Asia. Starters are where the

beets with whipped goat cheese and wasabi and cheese curds fried in chorizo oil. 299 W. Main St., Greenwood, 317-215V $$$ 4164, reverygreenwood.com

Revery ++ CONTEMPORARY This bistro in Old Greenwood

offers approachable fine dining, with a workingman’s bar on the historic building’s back end. Small plates have included

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JANUARY 2024 | IM

BAC K H OM E AGA I N

Sorry States of Affairs

SHUNNING 93,000,000 AMERICANS IS A COMPLEX OPERATION, BUT I MANAGE. BY P H I L I P G U L L E Y

EV E RY JANUARY, I resist the urge to set goals for the new year, not wanting to be disappointed at year’s end by my lack of progress. Instead, I think of something I might do if time and circumstances permit, so long as it doesn’t take much work. This year, I’m contemplating riding my motorcycle to San Antonio, Texas, to visit my son, Sam, and his family. To that end, I studied my atlas and realized riding to Texas would require me to travel through four of the 10 states I’m currently shunning: Texas, Arkansas, Louisiana, and Missouri. I’m willing to unshun Texas while Sam’s son, Miles, is stuck there, but as soon as he leaves that benighted state, I’ll be shunning it again. It doesn’t take much for me to spurn a state. I’m currently eschewing Ohio because I was once booed while giving a speech there. I’m snubbing Missouri because 96

IM | JANUARY 2024

I l l u s t r a t i o n b y RYA N S NO O K

in 1976, I caught a horrible case To avoid the states I’m shunof mastoiditis while swimming ning, I’ve concluded I can travel in Lake of the Ozarks on a to Texas via Detroit, where I family vacation. The pus leaked will cross the border into Canadown my ear canal into my da, motor to Quebec City, board brain, and I nearly died. One a ship, and sail northeast up doesn’t forget something like the St. Lawrence River to the that, let alone forgive it. Atlantic Ocean, down the EastBeing a Pepsi man, I shunned ern Seaboard, then through the Georgia for years, it being the Gulf of Mexico to Galveston, home of Coca-Cola. But then Texas, where I will disembark I remembered Georgia gave and head west to San Antonio. us Martin Luther King Jr., as Yes, it will be more expensive, well as Jimmy Carter, so I’ve but I have no respect for people reconsidered. who jettison their morality for Several years ago, in one financial considerations. of my books, I criticized the Canada and I have been Amish and Jehovah’s Witon good terms since my first nesses for shunning members visit in 1974, when my parents of their own families. But now, inadvertently left me behind at ironically, I find myself ostraciza gas station in Quebec for seving 93,000,000 Americans, eral hours. I spent my time in which is no easy task. I’ll be abandonment well, conversing glad when those 10 states with le Québécois, specifically straighten up so I can go back an attractive Quebecois girl my to liking them. Grudges, like age who spoke only French, all things carried, eventually which I had learned to speak weigh us down. from watching Louis LeBeau There is a complexity to on Hogan’s Heroes. We spread shunning that most people out a blanket underneath the don’t recognize. My favorite Esso sign and ate crêpes suzettes aunt spends half the year in while I sang “Les Feuilles Florida and the other half in Mortes” until she fell into my Indiana. Florida has always arms, overcome. Then my parannoyed me for reasons I don’t ents returned, and my charmed fully understand but deeply life in Canada sputtered to an feel, hence my shunning of the end. But somewhere in Quebec Sunshine State. Regarding my is a 62-year-old woman who aunt, I’ve decided to snub her falls asleep each night dreamwhile she’s in Florida, then ing of me, who, when asked by extend the hand of fellowship her husband what she is thinkwhen she returns to Indiana. ing about, falls silent, the pain It’s hard not to like Colorado, of her loss too great to bear. but I’m working on it. It has Like most Canadians, she irritated me ever since one of probably spends the winter in my best friends left Indiana to Florida. Were I to visit her, it live there. He texts would require driving me pictures of the through Kentucky, Philip Gulley is mountains and brags which I’m also shuna Quaker pastor, about how pretty they ning after they mailed author, and are. Still, I can’t quite me a ticket for speedhumorist. Back Home Again bring myself to shun ing. This leaves Michichronicles his Colorado because I gan and Illinois as my views on life in honeymooned there. only escape routes Indiana. It would be the same should life in Indiana as shunning my wife, become unbearable. Of who, as it turns out, spent her course, I could always move to honeymoon there, too. The seBloomington—which is kind of cret to a successful honeymoon in Indiana but kind of not—and is taking your spouse with you. study French, just in case.

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