COVER STORYI FASHION I BRAND
CUT A DASH
FROM FIT TO FABRIC TO FABULOUS, A BESPOKE SUIT HAS THE PERFECT SILHOUETTE
the master tailor uses the chalk to mark the accurate button placements on an semi-constructed jacket
SEPTEMBER, 2016 u INDIA TODAY SPICE 61
COVER STORYI FASHION I BRAND
the hand-stitched suit at kiton uses a special technique which leaves a margin for the garment to expand and contract
ANTONIO DE MATTEIS CEO, Kiton
THE FABRIC For us the element of bespoke starts from the fabric itself. All the fabrics we use are only made for us. No other brand has access to these fabrics that we put into production for our garments. Even with high speciality fabrics, we are the only ones who can boast the 12.8 micron wool fabrics and stand as the only ones to have developed the vicuna fabric in a variety of colours and chequered patterns. We have our own cloth mills in Biella, Italy. Our clients are free to choose from our exclusive offerings to suit their tastes. THE FIT There is nothing better than the concrete reality of a tailored fit. Personalised clothing means it is worked around an individual’s silhouette. The Kiton jacket is an haute couture garment where 25 tailors work on a jacket that takes 21 hours to make; only 85 are produced each day. The most prestigious model, called Lasa, can take up to 40 hours of work and all its various parts have to be made by one tailor. THE CUT Craftsmanship is an art; an approach to work based on rigorous method and devotion. Each garment is cut by hand, prior to which each of the client’s measurements are converted into a pattern mould. We do not allow anyone less than a qualified ‘master tailor’ across any of the several hand-made processes that
62 INDIA TODAY SPICE u SEPTEMBER, 2016
the garment goes through. Even though the master tailor can be considered over qualified for certain processes, it is maintained as a thumb rule at Kiton. THE INTERLINING You could have the best of fabric and brand label on your suit but if your interlining is bad, it is pure disaster. It is an ingredient that no one talks about. We use the best in the world. We choose lightest interlining to complement the light-weight fabrics that we use. THE LINING We do not compromise on quality whether we use it for the bottom or the chest. When these basics are of a high quality and used in consistent productions, you will never find a disparity in our jackets. Usually, your experience with the same tailor might differ between two jackets. But our quality of materials, apart from the fabric, is a result of qualitative output, every single time. THE SHOULDER The shoulder is crucial. It has to be supple and adhere to the movements of the wearer. A shoulder pad and a small amount of extra wadding are inserted. Then the sleeve is tacked, where the fabric at the end of the sleeve is at least three times wider than the armhole which ensures the wearer can move the arm freely.
trials are a crucial element of the bespoke process which could take up to eight months from start to finish
SUBTLE DETAILS The uniqueness of hand-craft with an impeccable sartorial technique reflects Kiton’s style. Functional buttons on the jacket sleeve, lapels and sleeves sown by hand, special buttons sewn by silk thread. Zips, buckles and details made of galvanised palladium. Also, button-holes for the jackets are cut in a unique manner by just one master-tailor in-house; using a chisel and hammer.
the fabric, scraping away the surface layer. Just steaming the jacket can give it a refreshed look.
FUNCTION A jacket does not have to be restrictive. It has to be fluid, to adapt to your body contours and function. There is an advantage to stitching by hand compared to that of a machine. The special technique of hand-stitching leaves a margin for the garment to expand and contract, a functional elasticity which does not hamper movement.
PASSION NOT FASHION Put yourself before others. Focus on the pleasure of wearing something unique rather than trying to focus on details that are purely aesthetical. (such as double stitch on the lapel). Pure elegance is what presents one in any city around the globe; a distinguished gentleman. This has been the essence and vision of Kiton since we started.
BESPOKE IS ABOUT A RELATIONSHIP Most boutiques have a well-trained staff and spend hours understanding their client’s preferences. Listening to their advice will help you understand and take styling decisions rather than assuming on your own.
PERSONALISATION Apart from choosing a unique fabric, there are various options from buttons to the lining to make this bespoke offering more personalised. The stylisation of the jacket can vary according to the individual’s personality; you can choose between peak lapels to notch lapels, their width, and slant pockets to straight ones. It’s more about one’s own expression. It could even be a hidden aspect like a name specially embroidered on the inside of the pocket. As told to Sarosh Mody
BESPOKE GARMENT IS AN INVESTMENT Ask your tailor for appropriate care instructions. Dry clean your suits as infrequently as possible, they should only be at the cleaners when there is a spill, sweat or physical dirt. The chemical wash erodes
PATIENCE Invest time, plan ahead. The handwork is extensive and usually has a time-line. If it is your first time, it could take up to eight months between the very first trial, to any tweaks up to the final delivery. The second time around, things are a bit quicker.
SEPTEMBER, 2016 u INDIA TODAY SPICE 63