In ancient footsteps Explore our sites on historic pilgrimage routes
MARCH 2019
Discover the origins of the story of St George and the dragon – and our sites associated with it
PLUS MYTHS AND MAGIC AT WHITBY ABBEY’S NEW VISITOR CENTRE
THE PROJECT TO CREATE TINTAGEL’S LANDMARK BRIDGE
THE INCREDIBLE OBJECTS OUR STORES ARE HELPING TO SAVE
RUNNING HEAD
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Welcome Get in touch
W www.english-heritage.org.uk/members E membersmagazine@immediate.co.uk (for magazine queries only) or members@english-heritage.org.uk (for membership queries) T 0370 333 1181 PO Box 569, Swindon, SN2 2YP
For English Heritage
Luke Whitcomb, Johanna Lovesey, Jeremy Ashbee, Tom Dennis, Tersia Boorer, Tony Dike, Katie Kennedy, Richard Leatherdale
For Immediate Media Co.
Group editor Matt Havercroft Group production editor Oliver Hurley Senior art editor Sam Freeman Art editor Elaine Knight-Roberts Account director Helen Johnston Account manager Joanne Robinson Director Julie Williams Editorial director Dan Linstead Design director Will Slater Consultant editor Dave Musgrove Advertising manager Jamie Bolton Advertising enquiries 0117 300 8518; jamie.bolton@immediate.co.uk
Contributors
Collette Orler, Judy Armstrong, Nick Redmayne, Kevin Booth, Susan Harrison, Ian Leins, Martin Allfrey, Michael Carter, Michael Klemperer, Jeremy Ashbee, Reuben Briggs, Oliver Berry, Guy Hayward, Howard Spencer, Will Wyeth English Heritage Members’ Magazine is published on behalf of English Heritage by Immediate Media Co, Tower House, Fairfax Street, Bristol, BS1 3BN, UK T +44 (0)117 927 9009 W www.immediate.co.uk
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H
ello and welcome to our first issue of 2019. This year we’re celebrating the myths, legends and folklore associated with our historic sites through special events, online (see www.englishheritage.org.uk/tellingtales) and in the pages of this magazine, starting with our feature on the legend of St George and the dragon on page 28. Few of our sites enjoy such mythical status as Whitby Abbey on the North Yorkshire coast, where a £1.6 million project to transform the abbey’s visitor centre and create a new museum, café, shop and family trails will be unveiled this Easter. To find out more, turn to page 16. For those of you keen to try something different or explore some new English Heritage sites, turn to page 40 to discover the brilliant walking trails we have devised in collaboration with the British Pilgrimage Trust. Alternatively, take a look at your new-look What’s On guide to discover our events programme. Happy Easter and thank you for your support. Kate Mavor Chief Executive
Support us
Our work depends increasingly on the income generated through membership and donations, and we are incredibly grateful to those who already support us. This support helps in so many ways: from opening our historic places for all to visit, to conserving the objects and buildings in our care, to involving others in our work through volunteering and community opportunities. To discover more about what your support helps us to achieve, make a donation or find out how to leave a gift to English Heritage in your will, please visit www.english-heritage.org.uk/support-us or call the fundraising team on 020 7973 3797. English Heritage cares for more than 400 historic monuments, buildings and places – from world-famous prehistoric sites to grand medieval castles, and from Roman forts on the edges of the empire to Cold War bunkers. Through these we bring the Story of England to life for more than 10 million visitors each year.
January to December 2018: 424,388 Registered charity no. 1140351 (England) Registered company no. 07447221 (England) Product code: 200543
Contributors
Michael Klemperer Senior gardens advisor On page 32 Michael reveals the story of the restored game larder at Brodsworth Hall in South Yorkshire, which was created by former resident Charles Sabine Thellusson in the 1860s
Michael Carter Senior properties historian
Will Wyeth Properties historian (castles and landscapes)
Michael reveals the origins of the legend of St George – and the English Heritage sites with a connection to England’s dragon slaying patron saint on page 28
On page 58 Will reveals the role of Conisbrough Castle in South Yorkshire in Sir Walter Scott’s famous novel Ivanhoe on the 200th anniversary of its publication www.english-heritage.org.uk
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Contents March 2019
16 ‘FOR CENTURIES VISITORS HAVE BEEN DRAWN TO WHITBY ABBEY, WHERE A WALK AMONG THE RUINS FIRES THE IMAGINATION’ F E AT U R E S
14
Meet the expert
28
Stories of England
38
Historic holidays
Introducing Polly Glotti, the first female jester to perform at our sites
Senior properties historian Michael Carter on the legend of St George
Explore England’s most spectacular heritage sites with Just Go Holidays
16
32
40
New this season
How we’re retelling the story of Whitby Abbey in North Yorkshire
22
Expert care
The incredible objects the teams at our archaeological stores are helping to save
Close-up
Discover the story of the game larder at Brodsworth Hall in South Yorkshire
34
Behind the scenes
The story of the landmark bridge we’re creating at Tintagel Castle in Cornwall
Multi-site: pilgrimage routes
Follow in the footsteps of saints and discover our sites on these ancient trails
58
Past lives: Sir Walter Scott
How Conisbrough Castle became the setting of Scott’s famous novel Ivanhoe
REGULARS
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06
The big picture
Join the search for dragon eggs at our Easter Adventure Quest events
08
Then & now
The latest English Heritage news, including our millionth Member and the latest blue plaques
32
46
Members’ rewards
Make big savings on treats for yourself or others with our rewards scheme for English Heritage Members
34
57
20 questions quiz
Put your knowledge of our abbeys and priories to the test with our fun quiz
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Y O U R E N G L I S H H E R I TA G E Front cover: St George re-enactor Stacy Van DolahEvans at Warkworth Castle
49
My experience
Meet 14-year-old Member Reuben Wild, the winner of our national sandcastle-building competition
In ancient footsteps Explore our sites on historic pilgrimage routes
MARCH 2019
22
51
Over to you
Discover the origins of the story of St George and the dragon – and our sites associated with it
Your letters and views on the magazine and all things English Heritage PLUS MYTHS AND MAGIC AT WHITBY ABBEY’S NEW VISITOR CENTRE
THE PROJECT TO CREATE TINTAGEL’S LANDMARK BRIDGE
THE INCREDIBLE OBJECTS OUR STORES ARE HELPING TO SAVE
Photograph: Richard Lee
52
Ask the experts
Your questions answered by our team of experts across English Heritage
55
Members’ events
We reveal the top five Memberexclusive events to put in your diary for the season ahead
THE BIG PICTURE
Easter Adventure Quests, nationwide Find out if you’ve got what it takes to crack the clues at our Easter Adventure Quest events this spring. Join the trails and attempt to track down the dragon eggs hidden around our sites across the country. Successful adventurers will be rewarded at the end of their quest with a chocolate treat. There are plenty of opportunities to take part, with the events running from Saturday 6 to Monday 22 April. www.english-heritage.org.uk/easter
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english-heritage.org.uk www.english-heritage.org.uk
www.english-heritage.org.uk
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Then&Now Keep up to date with the latest news, sites and developments
MEMBERS
e recently welcomed our millionth Member – and marked the occasion in a suitably historic fashion. Sima Odedra, who joined English Heritage after a visit to Tintagel Castle in Cornwall, was awarded by our medieval knight with a lifetime membership during a trip to Kenilworth Castle and Elizabethan Garden in Warwickshire. Her children, Aiden and Ryan, were also given English Heritage Operation and Cluedo board games. Since joining, they have already been to numerous properties around the country, from Stonehenge to Stott Park Bobbin Mill. ‘The thing that has impressed me is that all the sites have incorporated something that engages
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children, whether it’s hands-on activities, puzzles or trails,’ says Sima. ‘I also like the fact that all of the sites we have visited have large open spaces around them, so you can make a real day out of it. The memories that we have made in some spectacular places will truly last a lifetime.’ Next on Sima’s list of properties to visit are Audley End House and Gardens, Bolsover Castle and Wellington Arch. ‘We have seen it so many times when we have visited London but never actually knew that you could climb it, so it’s something we want to do because it’s such a recognisable monument.’ www.english-heritage.org.uk/kenilworth
GARETH IWAN JONES
Our millionth Member receives the gift of a lifetime at Kenilworth Castle
NEWS
YO U R S AY
GARDENS
Rediscover Walmer Castle’s Pleasure Gardens
Members reveal the sites they’re looking forward to visiting this year
The gardens at Walmer Castle, near Deal in Kent, are currently undergoing a £2.3m rejuvenation that will reveal some of the site’s hidden stories. The project will focus on reviving and reuniting areas of the gardens, as well as improving visitor facilities such as the café and disabled access routes. The local community is also being invited to get involved via volunteering opportunities. ‘We are delighted to have started work on this exciting project and look forward to opening up these new areas to visitors,’ says Neil McCollum, head of historic properties for Kent. The castle and existing gardens will remain open throughout the works, which are due to be completed later this year. www.english-heritage.org.uk/walmer
Whitby Abbey is at the top of my list. It looks stunning and it inspired Bram Stoker’s Dracula – what more could you want from one place? Marcela Blazkova, London
I’ve always wanted to visit Osborne – the history fascinates me. It’s a long way for us but I’m hoping to go this summer. Jill Kirby, North Lincolnshire
IN NUMBERS
16.75 The weight in tonnes of St Breock Downs Monolith, which is Cornwall’s largest and heaviest prehistoric monolith. It was originally 5 metres high. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ stbreock
800 1,500
The number of years since peace between England and Scotland was signed at Norham Castle in Northumberland. www.english-heritage.org. uk/norham
The number of objects at Osborne on the Isle of Wight that have to be covered by dust sheets when the house is given a deep clean every winter. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ osborne
I NTE RV I E W
EXHIBITION
Artist David Mankin on how Tintagel Castle inspired his painting for the new handbook cover
Hear the music of Brodsworth Hall
How does it feel to have your painting, Passage, on the handbook’s cover? I feel thrilled to have been chosen. It’s a great honour to have my painting on the cover and to be representing such an iconic Cornish landmark. Does living in Cornwall influence your art? Cornwall has a magnetic draw, a kind of wild, rugged landscape, but it’s also subtle and beautiful at the same time. As an artist I’m responding to my sensory experiences of being in that landscape. It’s like a convergence of thoughts and feelings – like expressing my memory through paint.
What did you think of Tintagel when you visited the site? We took our children there a few years ago but the prospect of visiting again with my artist’s eyes was a really interesting opportunity and, wow, what a spot it is. It’s an incredible site.You feel that combination of beauty and power and subtlety and colour, and all those things kind of clash together. There were so many things that were sparking my senses, and I’ve tried to capture that in Passage. What do you hope that Members get from Passage? I hope they will get a feeling of that sensory experience of being at Tintagel, and I hope they enjoy looking at it as much as I enjoyed making it. www.english-heritage.org.uk/handbook
Brodsworth Hall and Gardens in Yorkshire is set to ring with the sound of a new display and soundscape over the summer exploring the musical history of the house. Original owners the musical Thellussons had an extensive collection of instruments, gramophones and sheet music, and supported the creation of the local Woodlands Village Band. There will also be a family trail and new sound and music elements, including Band Sunday events over the summer and the Last Night of the Proms on 10 August. www.english-heritage.org.uk/brodsworth www.english-heritage.org.uk
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RUNNING HEAD
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G E T
C L O S E R
T O
N A T U R E
IN MY VIEW Alex Sydney Head of Investment & Involvement
TECHNOLOGY
NEWS IN BRIEF
New project to help the world to enjoy the sunrise and sunset at Stonehenge Spreading the word
Every year, we invite millions to walk along windswept stretches of Hadrian’s Wall, marvel at the Iron Bridge or see priceless Old Masters at Kenwood. Ensuring that these places are well looked after and enabling people to visit them all year round is a vital part of our work as a charity, but the costs of doing so are rising. That is why our Members are so important. Membership doesn’t just buy you entry to those sites where an entry fee is applicable, it also provides vital funds to help us to maintain hundreds of historic sites for which we make no charge. As a Member, you’re already helping, but now we are reaching out to the wider public. The newly created Once and Future Fund (www.englishheritage.org.uk/support-us/theonce-and-future-fund) will help to care for our free-to-enter sites both now and in the future. We are delighted that the National Lottery Heritage Fund has pledged to match all public donations to the fund up to a total of £1m. We are also trying to work more closely with the communities that surround our sites and, to achieve this, we are encouraging people to take an active interest in the running of these special places. If you would like to get more closely involved in your local free-to-enter site, or if you have ideas about how the site could be better utilised, we’d love to hear from you – email us at freetoenter. sites@english-heritage.org.uk.
The experience of seeing the new day dawn at Stonehenge has been a source of wonder since prehistory. Iconic sunrise and sunset pictures have captured the imagination and have come to shape our view of the world-famous site. However, only a small proportion of us ever actually get to walk among the stones and experience sunrise or sunset at Stonehenge first-hand To solve this and to share the wonders of Stonehenge with a wider audience, we will soon be launching a new digital project, which will make a virtual real-time view of the
sky, seen as though standing within the stone circle itself, available to audiences worldwide. To preserve the elemental character of the site, this is being cleverly achieved without placing any obtrusive technology within the stones themselves. Additionally, viewers will be offered an option to overlay a representation of solar, lunar and planetary data, tracking the movement of these bodies across the sky to highlight their relationship to the stones and the sense of celestial scale this affords. Look out for more details at www.english-heritage. org.uk/stonehenge.
Don’t miss our new podcast At the end of March, we’ll be launching a new podcast, bringing you exclusive insights into our properties every week. For more details, go to www.english-heritage.org.uk.
BLUE PLAQUES
Latest news from our blue plaques scheme
Enjoy free car parking at our sites
Members can now enjoy free parking at most of our sites by displaying a current car sticker. For full details on parking, see individual site listings in your handbook, which you will have received with this issue. You will find your new car sticker with this magazine.
Three contrasting figures have been celebrated recently as part of our London blue plaques scheme. Margaret Lockwood (pictured) was a star of stage and screen in the 1930s–40s, and is remembered most for her role in The Lady Vanishes. In her youth she lived in three houses on the same road in south London. The only one to escape wartime bombing, 14 Highland Road, now bears her plaque.The botanist Agnes Arber undertook pioneering work in the first half of the 20th century on the anatomy of plants – appropriately, her plaque marks a family home, 9 Elsworthy Terrace, within sight of leafy Primrose Hill. Finally, William Beveridge, founding father of the welfare state, was commemorated at his home at 27 Bedford Gardens, Kensington, where he lived during the 1920s.
BLUE PLAQUES WORDS: HOWARD SPENCER
Free to enter doesn’t mean free to maintain
We’re delighted to be working in partnership with Country Life butter this year on a series of competitions and promotions to encourage visits to our properties. Country Life has also given a generous donation to support our work.
NEWS
COMPETITION
THREE TO SEE
Win a set of exclusive Mr Men and Little Miss goodies
Don’t miss these exciting new additions for 2019 at our historic properties
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2
3
Dover Castle’s new escape room
Interactive tours at Orford Castle
Royal celebrations at Osborne
WIN!
An exclusive range of gifts will launch in April in collaboration with beloved book characters Mr Men and Little Miss. The range is based on the book Mr Men Adventure With Knights, a fun tale that brings history to life with a smile. It includes clothing, homeware, stationery and souvenirs, and will be available exclusively at our sites and at www.english-heritageshop.org.uk. We have 12 water bottles to give away and two of the lucky winners will also have their water bottles personalised with their name – a prize that Mr Forgetful would approve of! To be in with a chance of winning, go to: www.english-heritage.org.uk/rewards
This thrilling escape room opening soon will invite visitors to explore the castle’s Cold War connections as they solve clues to reach safety in a nuclear bunker.
New multimedia tours will bring rooms from the 12th century to life. And a model of the Suffolk castle will show what it was like when first built
Opening in May at Victoria and Albert’s seaside retreat on the Isle of Wight, this new display and trail celebrate the 200th anniversary of their births.
EXPLAINED
I N S TA N T E X P E R T
Beeston Castle’s Bronze Age roundhouse
Why has the Iron Bridge in Shropshire changed colour? The year-long, £3.6m project to conserve the Iron Bridge has recently been completed and the icon of the Industrial Revolution has now been fully reopened to the public. Along with meticulous repair work – including bespoke replacements for hundreds of iron wedges holding the structure together – the entire bridge was painted in a red-brown colour. While the bridge’s metallic blue-grey was familiar to recent visitors, this red-brown hue is actually the structure’s original shade. The process of repainting the 240-yearold bridge involved six painters and 2,400 litres of paint. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ironbridge
What’s happening? Since February, volunteers have been recreating an ancient roundhouse at Beeston Castle in Cheshire. That sounds like hard work. Indeed. The roundhouse will have an external diameter of almost 10 metres and it will take until September to complete the initial construction. How does the Beeston roundhouse differ from those at Stonehenge? The Stonehenge houses (above left) 12
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are late Neolithic, based on stakes to hold up the roofs. In contrast, the Beeston roundhouse (above right) is Bronze Age and utilises large posts to support the heavy roof. How will the roundhouse be used? A space will be created for casting and metal-working demonstrations, and visitors will also have the opportunity to try prehistoric crafts and technologies. www.english-heritage.org.uk/beeston
P R O M O T I O N A L F E AT U R E
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magine driving past volcanoes that loom above vast ice caps, or hiking through moss-clad lava fields to a 100 metre-high waterfall. Imagine a coastline where black-sand beaches stretch as far as the eye can see, or where colourful fishing villages lie scattered like confetti through majestic fjords. Welcome to Iceland. Its natural wonders and vibrant culture can be explored year round, under the midnight sun or the glow of the Northern Lights. Discover the World – the leading Iceland travel specialist for 35 years – offers self-drives, small-group tours, Northern Lights breaks, hiking holidays,
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ENJOY AN EXCLUSIVE 5% DISCOUNT English Heritage Members are offered a five per cent discount on all Discover the World holidays, including Iceland, Scandinavia, Canada, Australasia, southern Africa, the polar regions, Chile and beyond. Visit www.discover-the-world.com or call 01737 886773 and quote English Heritage and the code EHDTW5.
Terms and conditions apply. Contact Discover the World for details
www.english-heritage.org.uk
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M E E T TH E E X PE RT
Polly Glotti Jester, performing at English Heritage sites nationwide INTERVIEW MAT T HAVERCROF T PHOTOGR APHS ANDRE W MAYBURY
What inspired you to become a jester? During my training at Circomedia circus school in Bristol I discovered I was more into comedy and creating unusual or surreal shows, rather than straight, serious or elegant circus. So I was always a quirky, contemporary performer. A friend once called my style ‘surrealism with gentle satire’ and, in hindsight, that sounds very much like jesting. ow i you rst eco e intereste in esting? I received an email about a workshop on fooling and called to sign up immediately. On the other end of the line was Peter Cooper, who performs at English Heritage sites as Peterkin the jester. He is a wonderful fool and many history enthusiasts have enjoyed his shows. I’ve learnt so much from him. What does the job of a jester involve? You need to be curious, open and aware to what’s happening around you because the jester reacts or reflects in his or her foolish way to the moment of the performance, along with wider trends in society. And, of course, it involves a lot of training for the acrobatics, so a good stretch and some silly dancing are daily essentials. How much of your performances are based on historical precendent? Sadly, records of jester acts are scarce but the artists’ names sometimes tell us what they did. For example, in Tudor times there was Lucretia the tumbler at Queen Mary I’s court, and Matilda Makejoy performed at King Edward I and II’s court. The term saliatrix is used to describe her, revealing her talent for acrobatic leaps and vaults. The tricks I perform are mainly based on medieval illuminations or sculptures depicting them. What would life have been like for a jester in t e i le ges? I would have considered myself incredibly lucky to be a jester at the time because of the social freedom that came with it. It wasn’t important whether one was born poor or rich – a fool was a fool. Certain innate talents like hypermobility might have just 14
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Above Swiss acrobat Colette Orler adopted the guise of Polly Glotti – our first female jester – after she trained at a circus school in Bristol acing age Being a jester combines acrobatics, contortion, telling jokes and general silliness
been trained and perfected. That’s how my own journey went – a quirky mind in a very bendy body. ere o you get your costu es ro ? I sometimes make them from scratch, or I remake them from medieval-style clothes I buy from re-enactors’ markets. The wooden bowls I use in my shows were made by my dad, and my sister made my bow and arrows. It’s a medieval cottage industry! What kind of skills or tricks can you be seen er or ing at our events? There is plenty of silly dancing, acrobatics, fancy turns and pivots and some handstanding. The final trick of one of my shows was inspired by a depiction of lady archers launching arrows with their feet on an ancient Greek vase. I also invented a balance move that I call the bow and arrow (see right). Look out for it when you see me perform! DISCOVER MORE To find out where Polly Glotti will be appearing, go to www english-heritage org uk events
‘Being a jester in the Middle Ages was lucky because of the social freedom that came with it’
MYTHS AN The ruins of Whitby Abbey are among the most celebrated sights of North Yorkshire. The first monastery here, founded in about 657, became one of the most important religious centres in the Anglo-Saxon world
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NEW THIS SEASON
ND MAGIC Legends and reality meet at Whitby Abbey, one of North Yorkshire’s most iconic sites, where a £1.6 million project to transform its visitor centre and museum is helping visitors to discover its story WORDS JUDY ARMSTRONG
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n the fishing port of Whitby, on North Yorkshire’s crumbling coast, the day is dark. Surf smashes the cliffs, seagulls scream and ships shudder in the little harbour. The skeleton of Whitby Abbey casts a black silhouette on a scudding sky. A man walking past the Abbey’s ruined church rounds his shoulders, ducks his head and waits for this day to pass. Soon enough it will be summer. The Abbey stone will glow gold again, blonde grasses that wave in the wind will be cut to greensward and visitors will run on it, stand on it, lie on it, soaking up the grandeur of this magical place. For Whitby Abbey is magical. Not in a Harry Potter way – that is left to the film sets of nearby Goathland – but rather through the myths and legends that swirl about the place, formed by centuries of storytelling from poets and novelists inspired by its place and power. Lewis Carroll’s
time on the beaches of Whitby and Sandsend bled into The Walrus and the Carpenter. Local lore says Abbess Hild, who founded the site with the support of Northumbrian King Oswiu in 657, found the headland infested with snakes. She banished them into the sea and when they coiled to strike back they turned into stone, creating the snail-like ammonites that beachcombers still cherish. Most famous of all, Bram Stoker’s holiday in Whitby led to the creation of Dracula – his characters drawn from the streets, a timely shipwreck and the atmosphere of the ancient parish church of St Mary that towers above the town (it is reached by a climb of 199 steps). For centuries visitors have been drawn here too: to the town, and up to the headland, where a walk among the ruins fires the imagination. Today, it may have no roof, and the windows may have gaped, glassless, for centuries, but the power remains. For those who venture here in 2019, new treasures await. For two years work has been www.english-heritage.org.uk
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Abbey treasures Whitby Abbey’s rich history is being brought to life through a diverse array of artefacts on display in its new museum. Here are five key objects to look out for
Bulla or seal of Archdeacon Boniface Consiliarus, late 7th century This incomplete cast lead bulla has the legend ‘+ BONI / FA III +’ cast on one side and ‘+ ARCHI / DIAC +’ on the reverse. It was probably the seal of Archdeacon Boniface Consiliarius (died c705), a known associate and tutor of St Wilfred (c633–c709), who was spokesman for the Roman position at the Synod of Whitby. On loan from Whitby Museum. Height: 29mm.
Silver strap end, early 9th century This intricately designed silver strap end for a belt, decorated with an entwined creature at its centre, is of a fine type found mainly in the north of England. The terminal is designed in the shape of an animal’s head, with prominent eyes, comma-shaped ears and a trefoil on its forehead. On loan from Whitby Museum. Height: 40mm.
This pear-shaped fitting from a Saxon hanging bowl, with lugs on either side, is inlaid with a yellow enamel decoration in the shape of a cross, with Celtic knots in all four corners. Broken at the base, top, left and right-hand sides, it has been reconstructed on the left-hand side. On loan from Whitby Museum. Height: 58mm.
Jet cross pendant, 9th–11th century One of three small jet cross amulet pendants, decorated with rings and dots inlaid with silver on the main face (plain on the reverse) that were found at Whitby Abbey. When rubbed, the jet becomes statically charged and was seen as offering protection to the wearer. Height: 10.1mm.
Jet chess piece, 11th–12th century This polished jet rook chessman is decorated on both faces with rings and dots, inlaid with tin. Only educated people played chess, so it may have been lost by a wealthy visitor. Height: 26.5mm.
WHITBY MUSEUM AT PANNETT PARK, WHITBY IS KINDLY LOANING FINDS FROM THE ABBEY TO ENGLISH HERITAGE
Hanging bowl escutc eon or tting 7th century
NEW THIS SEASON
underway on a £1.6 million project to revitalise its visitor centre and improve facilities, with the big reveal due in April. Whitby Abbey property manager Delphine Jasmin-Belisle almost dances with excitement as she guides me through the complex. ‘This old lady and I have been looking after each other for a long time,’ she says. ‘This site has evolved as an echo of British history. It was one of the most important religious centres in the Anglo-Saxon world. Many things happened here that have shaped this country’s past and future.’
A meeting of minds
The first of these was the hosting of the Synod of Whitby in 664 in Abbess Hild’s original monastery. The meeting was called to resolve, among other things, the date of Easter, celebrated at different times by Christians following Irish and Roman observances. In the end, Northumbrian King Oswiu decided in favour of Rome, as he believed that Rome followed the teachings of St Peter, the holder of the keys to the Kingdom of Heaven. As Jasmin-Belisle explains, this was crucial because it allied the Church in England, both religiously and culturally, with mainstream continental Europe. Nothing remains above ground of Hild’s monastery today. But when the knight Reinfrid wandered on to the headland in the late 11th century, there were 40 stone huts from the Anglo-Saxon monastery that still survived,
‘A walk among the ruins of Whitby Abbey fires the imagination’ and this was enough to inspire him to choose it as the location for a priory, where he and a small group of men lived as hermits. But soon divisions emerged within the community, with some of the monks wanting a more organised form of monastic life and leaving to found the monastery that would eventually become St Mary’s Abbey in York. By around 1109 the remaining Whitby monks had also adopted Benedictine observance under the leadership of an abbot (the monastery therefore becoming an abbey). The monks built an impressive stone church – nothing now remains but you can see the outline of its east end laid out in the turf. The abbey evolved further in the 13th century, with the monks’ original Romanesque buildings rebuilt in Gothic style. ‘They had grand ideas, like the huge windows you can see at the eastern end,’ says JasminBelisle. ‘In their bid to create a glorious building, the money ran out and the nave, for example, was not finished until the 15th century.’
Top The remains of Whitby Abbey on the North Yorkshire coastline. The headland was first settled during the late Bronze Age Above Whitby Abbey’s visitor centre has been dramatically improved to incorporate a new museum display and shop
The Abbey had power over the town, with income from taxes and harbour dues. It also brought trade, pilgrims and royal guests. The glory days came to an end with the Suppression of the Monasteries by Henry VIII in the mid 16th century, when the monks were cast out and most of the buildings demolished. The Abbey’s church lost its roof but was left standing, possibly as a navigational aid to shipping. So began another chapter, when Yorkshire landowner Sir Richard Cholmley bought the Abbey’s buildings and core of its estate, and adapted part of the abbot’s lodgings into an imposing house. The Civil War came (1642–51), with the Cholmleys defending Scarborough Castle for the king, before surrendering it. After the war Sir Hugh Cholmley set to work on the family estates and added a grand new wing plus an entrance courtyard. ‘We’ll come back to that in a minute,’ Jasmin-Belisle says. ‘I want to explain another important moment… Here, in 1914, the www.english-heritage.org.uk
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MUSEUM |
CULTURE AND INSPIRATION
e and Inspiration towards Spirituality.
German fleet shelled Whitby. The bombardment hit the west end of the Abbey and the gatehouse, causing much damage. In Whitby three townsfolk were killed, 18 at Scarborough and 130 at Hartlepool. It led to Kitchener’s rallying call ‘Remember Scarborough’. The Abbey was in a poor state: the headland cliff was eroding, and the structure that had so inspired Bram Stoker was progressively weakened. Fortunately, in the 1920s the Abbey ruins were taken into guardianship and repaired by the Office of Works. The Cholmley House was added in 1935.
What’s new at Whitby Abbey? What to expect during your visit to the Abbey, from the stunning new visitor centre to the new entrance café
New and improved
Whitby Abbey remains important as a historic monument, attracting around 165,000 visitors annually. This year, they will be greeted by a new entrance, with a coffee shop, and a tree-lined avenue leading to a dramatically improved visitor centre. The whole lower floor is dedicated to a shop, with a new museum display on the first floor. ‘The interpretation scheme for the site promotes site-wide exploration and discovery, it is playful and contains elements of surprise and delight,’ says
‘In 2019 visitors will discover a dramatically improved visitor centre’ 90
Y ABBEY RE INTERPRETATION PROJECT
Visitor centre
Café
The visitor centre, incorporating a museum, encompasses the entire first floor, above the shop. There is a strong focus on three main themes: the headland and its people; a spiritual place; and the created and the imagined. Emphasis is placed on people as a major part of the Abbey’s history, from early Bronze Age through to the occupation of the Cholmley family.
A new café at the Gate Lodge entrance sells ice creams and hot drinks to refresh visitors after their walk from the car park, or up the 199 steps from Whitby’s harbour. Run in partnership between the YHA (Youth Hostel Association) and English Heritage, it supplements the hostel’s Abbey Café behind Cholmley House. For the first time, toilet facilities are now available within the Abbey site.
Guides Outside, a smart device – called the Ammonite Quest – provides a fun, interpretative experience for families and groups to actively explore and discover the history of the site together. The grounds remain wild, a reflection of the moorland, with interpretation plinths to help tell the Abbey’s story. 20
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Shop The English Heritage shop has more than doubled in size, covering the full ground floor of Cholmley House. There’s something for everyone: Whitby jet used in Romantic Gothic jewellery, Dracula and Abbey-inspired clothing and, linking to the museum, fossils (including real ammonites) found on the local shores and cliffs. Lovers of North Yorkshire food and drink will be happy, with wares from Whitby Distillery and Whitby Brewery, plus bespoke Whitby Abbey mug coasters from nearby Moorland Pottery.
DRINKALL DEAN © 2018
Ruth Haycock, interpretation manager (north). ‘The museum draws on the atmosphere of the Abbey to create a sense of drama and intrigue.’ Jasmin-Belisle agrees. ‘We want to inspire our visitors on a journey through the site’s history,’ she says. ‘I’m also proud that we now have a welcome point dedicated to English Heritage Members allowing them to skip the queues in summer.’ In place of the old audio guide, visitors will be offered a handheld ammonite device. It has a haptic beat and a series of lights that illuminate when objects and object locations are found. The device will also allow visitors to spacially map lost buildings. ‘It works a bit like a metal detector,’ says Haycock. ‘It will allow visitors to detect where objects, now in the museum, were found and map the buried archaeology in the cloister.’ I wonder what St Hild would think of the reptiles-turned-ammonites, vibrating and flashing more than 1,300 years later? She started the ball rolling on this windswept headland and, if Whitby Abbey can be opened to share its story with a larger audience, I’m sure she would be all for it. PLAN YOUR VISIT For more information and to plan your visit to Whitby Abbey, go to www.english-heritage. org.uk/whitby
WHERE WILL YOU HOLIDAY THIS SUMMER? Discover our holiday cottages
From medieval castles to Queen Victoria’s seaside retreat, come and stay in the places where history happened. If you’d like to experience one of our sites after hours and explore the grounds all by yourself, then enjoy a break in our holiday cottages. With 19 unique locations across the country, all equipped with modern comforts, you’re guaranteed an unforgettable stay.
To order a brochure or book your holiday: Visit www.english-heritage.org.uk/holidaycottages or call 0370 333 1187
The English Heritage Trust is a charity, no. 1140351, and a company, no. 07447221, registered in England.
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Hidden from view, our archaeological stores care for the historic artefacts not currently on display. We met the teams running them to discover how they’re protecting the treasures held in their aisles WORDS NICK REDMAYNE PHOTOGR APHS OLIVER EDWARDS
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wo large industrial units located anonymously at the end of a cul-de-sac didn’t shout English Heritage. There were no signs, no café and definitely no gift shop. Had I stumbled upon an English Heritage ‘black ops’ site? A door opened and a head leaned out. ‘I’m Kevin. You must be Nick. Come in and have a brew.’ Kevin Booth is senior curator at English Heritage North’s Archaeological Store, just outside the market town of Helmsley in the North York Moors National Park. ‘We’re at the hub of a set of major sites,’ he explained. ‘It’s our job to care for a huge variety and volume of material, including Europe’s largest collection of monastic architecture.’ The scale of the task was immediately apparent. In the warehouse, narrow canyons were defined by hundreds of pallets loaded with artefacts and worked stone. ‘Museums commonly exhibit five per cent of their collection. So, this,’ Booth motioned, ‘is a research collection, a key evidence base for understanding the history of a site in depth.’ I asked about the challenges of running the store. ‘It’s a constant check and balance to ensure
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SEE 8 INTRIGUING OBJECTS FROM OUR STORES www.english-heritage. org.uk/magazine
resource is being used effectively,’ he explained. ‘Costs in space, conservation, access and time all have to be considered.’ Some pallets were marked ‘Disposal’. ‘It’s a sensitive word. Just because an object is 500 years old doesn’t mean it has a great deal of future benefit. Space is limited. A pallet costs staff time. Can the material be used in conservation or restoration on site? If not, we’ll offer it to the museum sector. It’s a very carefully thought out process defined by our Collections Policy. But once you’ve gone through it you’ve just got to let it go.’ Moving on, past pallets of stone retrieved from Wharram Percy – a Saxon and Roman settlement in the East Riding – and stone arches showing the sooty blackness of post-industrialisation, it was clear that the reasons objects are in the store are as varied as the collections themselves. Booth pointed out a once finely carved mullion, since
Far left Senior curator Kevin Booth studying items at Helmsley Archaeology Store Above Conservator Leesa Vere-Stevens steam cleans stones from the store’s collections, which include objects spanning English history from prehistory to the modern day
‘This is a research collection, a key evidence base for understanding history of an individual site in depth’
degraded by centuries of exposure to the elements. ‘This was removed from Howden Minster because it threatened the viability of what was around it. It was retained to study how limestone erodes.’ Nearby, some fresh-looking 400-year-old stonework stood out. ‘You get remarkable conservation in the right conditions in the ground,’ said Booth. ‘In fact, 650 pieces from Rievaulx Abbey have been put back in the ground. We created a mound with neutral sand, then rabbit-proofed and turfed it. I call it alternative storage.’
Bizarre but practical
Throwing back a white shroud, Booth revealed a high-status tomb cover from Fountains Abbey near Ripon. ‘Most likely this is Henry, 1st Lord Percy of Alnwick. It’s a first-rate piece of 14th-century sculpture and it’s instructive, laden with buckles, mounts, chain mail, a belt with studs.’ I asked why such a remarkable piece lay on a plinth in a shed in North Yorkshire. ‘Fountains has very little display space. It’s bizarre but practical.’ Elsewhere, I examined medieval pilgrimage souvenirs cast from lead. ‘If we replace the silica gel, keeping it lovely and dry, it’s never going to www.english-heritage.org.uk
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corrode,’ explained Booth. ‘We’ve window glass, copper amulets, decorative knobs, everything,’ he said. ‘Look, 17th-century socks,’ Booth announced, proudly opening another box. ‘Stuffed in a wall at Lindisfarne. In the world of textiles they’re really quite important.’ In the second warehouse the focus changed. ‘This is a super insulated structure. It ticks over at 55 per cent humidity,’ said Booth. ‘We have furniture, textiles, other social history material. We look out for mould spores, cluster flies, silver fish, furniture beetle and vermin. It’s a clean zone.’ Much of the material was from Brodsworth Hall in South Yorkshire. ‘We tried to retain everything – the clutter of four generations,’ said Booth. ‘Material varies from the most humdrum to that of the highest level, and that’s the joy of Brodsworth.’ Of course, the decision to preserve ‘everything’
‘At Brodsworth Hall we tried to retain everything – the clutter of four generations’ adds to the challenge of managing collection stores. ‘Social history is large. It’s voluminous,’ said Booth. ‘Roller-racking allows us to fit so much more in the store with the help of a forklift truck. I never expected to get a forklift licence when I started here.’ Helmsley has modern material too. ‘This is a Plessey radio transmitter of the type used by the Royal Observer Corps in the 80s,’ said Booth. ‘And this one,’ Booth pointed to an adjacent steel cabinet, ‘is a computer called AWDERY – Atomic Weapons Detection Estimation and Recognition of Yield. It was designed to plot Armageddon, to detect the magnitude of atomic explosions.’
A national resource
I asked about the future. ‘We have a duty of care. It is an internationally important academic research resource. But I don’t believe in material sitting in a warehouse for its own sake and I’m also keen local communities know we exist. It’s their collection.’ Across the country, we are addressing the issue of storage, improving the quality of conservation and increasing the accessibility of collections. Martin Allfrey, senior curator of collections west, looks after Bristol’s Temple Cloud store. ‘We just moved to our newest building a few months ago. It’s allowed us to improve standards, creating a hub for eight staff members and volunteers.’ In common with other stores, Temple Cloud lives with the legacy of 19th and 20th-century archaeology, when criteria for conservation were inconsistent. 24
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Military operation
How an anti-aircraft gun became the latest arrival at Temple Cloud As part of an ongoing consolidation of military material, Bristol’s Temple Cloud store has just taken delivery of a Bofors anti-aircraft gun – an important example of Second World War artillery. However, transporting the gun from Fort Brockhurst on the south coast required military-style logistics. ‘It’s a large gun with a big barrel,’ explained senior curator Martin Allfrey. ‘To get it here we had to employ a specialist company used to moving modern military hardware.’ For curator Dr Ian
Clockwise from top left Dressed stone from Whitby Abbey; an electric overblanket, from the eclectic collection of items recovered from Brodsworth Hall in South Yorkshire; a 14th-century tomb cover, thought to be of Henry Percy, First Lord of Alnwick, recovered from Fountains Abbey in North Yorkshire; volunteers at Dover Castle stores have just completed a two-and-a-half year project to photograph, repack and record the treasures found at Richborough Roman Fort in Kent; a lead aestel (pointer) from Fountains Abbey, designed for reading manuscripts
Leins, it’s a worthy addition to the collection: ‘It’s unusual because it’s an early Swedish-built example. Sweden’s neutrality in the Second World War meant it was unable to trade in arms. Most remaining Bofors guns are British or Commonwealth-built copies.’ Firing up to 140 rounds of 2lb shells per minute enabled gunners to engage fast low-level targets. ‘It was considered one of the most effective weapons of the war,’ he added, ‘underlined by the fact it was used by both sides.’
‘The task we face now is to review our material, consider its potential and make long-term decisions.’ Over on the south coast, Joanne Gray, collections manager at Dover Castle, emphasised an archaeological store’s dynamic nature. ‘Ideally, we want as much access as possible, for research, education and the public.’ This goal was apparent in the recent transfer in ownership of a vast 1,600 square foot model of Sheerness Dockyard. ‘Most of our material is either archaeological or dates from the Second World War and the Cold War,’ described Gray. ‘But the Sheerness model threw a spanner in the works. Now that Sheerness Dockyard Preservation Trust can display the model, it’s being given a new home on site.’ In Bedfordshire, Dr Charlotte Newman is the collections curator at Wrest Park, home of more archaeological collections, and the Architectural Study Collection – an extensive mix of mostly 18th and 19th-century architectural objects that illustrate changes in London’s architecture and interiors over 200 years. ‘We combined two stores in 2014 when we moved here. Now we can focus on making the collection and the work we do more visible.’ To that end, archaeology clubs, special events and curriculum-based school visits cater for younger visitors, while behind-the-scenes tours are led by volunteers. ‘People don’t know what to expect,’ adds Newman, ‘but they leave having enjoyed access to a truly unique collection.’ DISCOVER MORE To book your place on a Helmsley Archaeology Store tour, go to www.english-heritage.org.uk/ helmsley-store Join the first of our Facebook ive behind-the-scenes series at our archaeological stores in early April Follow us at www facebook com englishheritage and keep an eye out closer to the time for more details www.english-heritage.org.uk
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spring flowers & the golden age of dutch art A cruise exploring the art treasures & horticultural highlights of the Netherlands aboard the MS Royal Crown 15th to 25th April & 25th April to 5th May 2020
NORTH SEA
THE NETHERLANDS
Haarlem Edam & Marken Keukenhof Naarden Amsterdam Kinderdijk Leiden Delft Arnhem The Hague Rotterdam Veere Dordrecht Middleburg Rhine
Spring is the perfect time of year to immerse yourself in the cultural and horticultural splendours of the Netherlands. During our voyage aboard the wonderfully comfortable MS Royal Crown, we will explore the countryside in some depth, visiting the magnificent flower displays of the Keukenhof, the historic Castle and Gardens of Middachten, the picturesque towns of the Zuider Zee, the Hortus Botanicus, the oldest botanical garden in the Netherlands and of course the art treasures of FRANCE Amsterdam and The Hague. Whilst exploring ashore we will be accompanied by excellent local guides and will also be Rhine joined on board by a Guest Speaker who will add much your to your enjoyment and knowledge of the region.
MS ROYAL CROWN e 9 passenger Royal rown is a sumptuous vessel for t e discerning traveller. With just 45 cabins she is elegantly appointed and suites are fitted wit spacious rosewood cupboards, a dressing table, satellite and radio, individually controlled air-conditioning and en-suite facilities with shower and airdryer. e onboard facilities suc as t e library, fitness area and lounge with its panoramic views, all combine to create a relaxing and special cruise experience. Outside there is a large sun deck, lido bar, a putting green and large scale chessboard. While the most beautiful river scenery passes by, enjoy delicacies created by t e xecutive ef and is team. e restaurant as open seating, allowing you to sit where and with whom you like at each meal. Breakfast and lunch are delightful buffets and dinner is a served four course meal.
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SWITZERLAND
For full details on this holiday call us today on 020 7752 0000 for your copy of our brochure.
RIVER CRUISING WITH NOBLE CALEDONIA SPECIAL OFFER – SAVE £200 PER PERSON
April is the ideal month for such a journey, the bulbs will be at their best and the landscape touched by the arrival of spring. e itinerary we ave designed is, we believe, a perfect mix of horticulture, history, art and Dutch lifestyle and makes for a colourful and endlessly interesting cruise.
The Itinerary in Brief Day 1 London, Bristol or Edinburgh to Amsterdam, The Netherlands. Fly by sc eduled ig t or travel by urostar train via russels. n arrival into Amsterdam transfer to the MS Royal rown in aarlem and embark. Day 2 Haarlem. After breakfast, depart for a morning walking tour of aarlem, including t e indmill de Adriaan. Our tour concludes with a visit to t e rans als useum, home to a spectacular display of CZECH 16th and 17th century portraits, still REPUBLIC lifes and landscapes. Return to the MS Royal Crown for lunch and enjoy an afternoon at leisure to explore t e city s pretty streets and caf culture. Sail in the early evening towards oorn. AUSTRIA
Day 3 Edam & Marken. After breakfast we will visit two unique communities of the Zuider Zee. Our first call will be at dam, a tran uil little town with drawbridges across canals and charming historic houses with lovely facades. Continue on to the fascinating village of Marken where the houses and traditional costumes are reminiscent of the past. Spend an afternoon at leisure in the attractive t century town of oorn. Day 4 Arnhem. Arrive this morning into Arnhem. After breakfast on board join an excursion to visit the memorable Airborne Museum artenstein t is renovated building ouses t e world s largest collection of militaria from Operation Market Garden. Alternatively, you may like to visit the private art collection at the Kroller Muller Museum with its late 19th and 20th century paintings. Return to the MS Royal Crown for lunch and enjoy a leisurely afternoon in Arnhem or you may like to join the included visit to the unique SLOVAKIA Middachten Castle & Gardens.
Day 5 Dordrecht njoy DANUBE & Kinderdijk. BEND a relaxing morning cruise as we head towards Dordrecht. After lunch on HUNGARY board there will be an excursion to see the nearby marvellous Windmills of Kinderdijk, of which there are 19 in total, dating from . e remainder of the day is free to CROATIA explore Dordrecht. Sail on towards Veere this evening.
here to explore at your own pace. Return to the ship and sail on to the lovingly restored Medieval town of Middelburg whose 12th century abbey is one of the oldest in the Netherlands. Join an afternoon guided walking tour on arrival. Sail this evening to Rotterdam. Day 7 The Hague & Delft. From Rotterdam we depart for a full day tour. ur first stop will be e ague for a visit to the beautiful Mauritshuis Museum with its marvellous collection of Dutch Golden Age paintings. Afterwards continue on to Delft, birthplace of Vermeer. We will have lunch in a local restaurant followed by a walking tour of this pretty town. ur tour will finis wit a visit to see the Delft Blue Pottery. Day 8 Leiden. After breakfast we depart for the vibrant city of Leiden, a treasure trove of narrow streets and canals, lined with beautiful 17th century buildings, including ancient alms houses. On our walking tour we will see the old harbour, Beestenmarkt square and the charming Weddesteeg, where the world-famous painter Rembrandt was born. We continue with a visit to t e ortus otanicus, t e oldest botanical garden in the Netherlands. ROMANIA
Day 9 Keukenhof Gardens. After breakfast we will drive from Amsterdam to the Keukenhof IRON Gardens for a morning in this GATES Day 6 Veere & Middleburg. oday extraordinary horticultural heaven. we explore Southern Zeeland, it ectares of owers, more Danube starting in the 13th century town of than seven million bulbs in bloom and Veere. Formerly a seaport but now 800 varieties of tulips, this is a truly within a lake due to theSERBIA Delta works unique and unforgettable experience. carried out in the 1960s, it is a We will BULGARIA return to the MS Royal Crown charming place with well-preserved for a late lunch followed by an ouses and a marina. njoy free time afternoon at leisure in Amsterdam.
Alternatively view or request online at www.noble-caledonia.co.uk
Day 10 Naarden & Amsterdam. After breakfast we will depart for the ancient fortified town of Naarden, one of t e best preserved in urope wit a fascinating history. A military work of art, it has the shape of a 12-pointed star and a double ring of moats. On arrival enjoy a walking tour, followed by some free time. After lunch on board, the afternoon is at leisure to either explore independently or join the tour to the Rijksmuseum. Day 11 Amsterdam to London, Bristol or Edinburgh. Disembark after breakfast and return to the UK by sc eduled ig t or travel by urostar to ondon t ancras.
Prices & Inclusions Special offer prices per person based on double occupancy start from £2995 for a Junior Suite. Cabins for sole use from £3795.
What’s Included: conomy class sc eduled air travel or train travel • 10 nights aboard the MS Royal Crown on a full board basis ouse wine, beer soft drinks with lunch & dinner • Shore excursions • Noble Caledonia onboard team including Guest Speaker Danube Delta • Gratuities ransfers NB. Ports and itinerary subject to change. All special offers are subject to availability. Travel insurance & optional BLACK excursions are not included in the SEAprice. Our current booking conditions apply to all reservations.
SMALL SHIPS - BIG EXPERIENCES
Saint, soldier, slayer St George and the dragon is one of England’s greatest legends, but who is the man behind the myth? We look at how George’s tale has been shaped over time WORDS MICHAEL CARTER ILLUSTR ATIONS CLIVE HICKS -JENKINS
I
n 1233, reports circulated of the terrifying sight of two dragons fighting in the sky over the Channel – a portend of the civil strife that was about to descend on the kingdom. Luckily our ancestors could call upon the assistance of the holy dragon slayer St George. But who exactly was St George, where does the dragon story come from, and why is he the patron saint of England? It’s likely that St George was among the martyrs who died for their Christian faith during the last great persecution of the Christian church, initiated by the Roman Emperor Diocletian in 303. A midfourth-century inscription from modern-day Syria provides the earliest evidence for his veneration as a saint. From an early date, devotion to George (or his cult) was focused on the Roman city of Diospolis, present-day Lod in Israel, a destination for pilgrims from at least the sixth century. By then more details were being added to the saint’s story. From the fifth century he was identified as a Christian officer in the Roman army who suffered martyrdom because he refused to sacrifice to pagan gods. George then became one of the more popular saints in the Byzantine Empire in the eastern Mediterranean,
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and his veneration soon extended to western Europe, including England. Willibrond, the Northumbrian missionary saint, was a pilgrim to St George’s shrine in the Holy Land during the 720s and was impressed by the miracles worked there by the saint. The feast of St George on 23 April, the purported day of his martyrdom, was present in English calendars of saints’ days from the ninth century, and remains his feast to this day. At the end of the Anglo-Saxon period, his relics were the focus of veneration at Exeter Cathedral, while the monastery founded by King Cnut at Thetford in 1016 was dedicated to the saint. The fame of St George in England was further enhanced after the Norman Conquest and by c1100 he was being invoked to bring safety to the English army. The saint’s pre-existing military associations were amplified during the First Crusade. He was believed to have come to the aid of the Christian army besieging the Muslim stronghold of Antioch in 1098, and a year later was credited with leading the Crusaders when they successfully stormed the holy city of Jerusalem. Suggestions, however, that the English adopted the flag of St George (a white background with a red cross) during the Third Crusade (1189–92) are without foundation. Nor, as is often said, did King Richard I (the Lionheart) have a special devotion to St George – he preferred St Edmund of East Anglia who was considered one of the patron saints of England at this time, with St Edward the Confessor and Pope Gregory the Great.
A national association
It wasn’t until the mid-13th century that St George became firmly associated with the English nation, especially during times of warfare. The army of Edward I carried the saint’s flag in 1277 while campaigning in Wales and, in 1348, King Edward III adopted St George as patron of the Order of the Garter. To this day, the image of the mounted saint piercing the dragon with his lance adorns the insignia of this most noble of chivalric orders. So where does the dragon come into the story? Depictions of St George battling this beast, an allegorical combat between the forces of good and evil, are known from as early as the ninth century, with the earliest surviving English examples dating to the 12th century. But it was arguably thanks to the Golden Legend, a collection of saints’ lives by Italian friar Jacobus de Voragine completed in 1265, that the story of the saint’s battle with the dragon reached a wider audience. In de Voragine’s version, he tells how George rescued a chaste www.english-heritage.org.uk
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STORIES OF ENGL AND
On the trail of St George Our historic sites with a link to England’s patron saint ngton Castle ite orse an Dragon ill or s ire According to local legend, the summit of Dragon Hill is the site of the battle between St George and the dragon.
anercost riory Cu ria A chapel was dedicated to St George. The tomb of Sir Thomas, Lord Dacre, is decorated with insignia of the Knights of the Garter, whose patron is St George.
arleig unger or Castle o erset A mid-15th-century wall painting depicts St George wearing armour, spearing the dragon at his feet.
attle o astings ey an attle el ast usse Relics of St George, including a finger bone, are listed in a 15th-century inventory of relics from the abbey.
e le C urc ristol A 15th-century brass chandelier that hung here until the Second World War features images of St George and the dragon. It is now in Bristol Cathedral.
ir a riory ort or s ire The sculptural ornament of the monastery’s gatehouse includes St George’s battle with the dragon.
‘George was exactly the sort of saint targeted by religious reformers in the mid-16th century’ princess of the city of Silene in Libya from the dragon, spearing it with his lance. Described in his legend as ‘very handsome’, the chivalric St George soon became a focus of popular devotion. By 1417, his feast day was a national holiday, celebrated with lavish religious services and civic ceremonies, the latter featuring pageants, plays and processions with fabulous re-enactments of the saint’s fight with the dragon.
or i
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Non-biblical and with a later fantastical legend, George was exactly the sort of saint targeted by religious reformers in the mid-16th century. Although he continued to be favoured by royalty, many of the ceremonies associated with his feast day were banned, and at churches around the country his image was smashed. The pronouncedly Protestant English national identity formed by the 18th century had no place for a national holiday on the feast day of a saint so associated with Catholic Europe. But popular interest in St George never died out, with the dragon battle continuing to be a common feature of mummers’ plays. 30
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Michael Carter Michael is a senior properties historian, specialising in the medieval period
out t e illustrator Clive Hicks-Jenkins is our selected artist for this year’s theme of Telling Tales: The Myths, Legends and Folklore of England. Look out for more of Clive’s work, which will be appearing across our website, magazine and social media channels, over the year ahead
Interest in the saint revived during the 19th century, with St George becoming a personification of Britain’s imperial expansion. With their emphasis on duty, honour and patriotism, he was also the ideal patron for the Boy Scouts. The saint’s military associations were evoked and his aid sought during the First World War, with stories circulating of a ghostly apparition of St George coming to the aid of British troops during their retreat from Mons in August 1914. The saint’s image adorned numerous war memorials after hostilities ended in 1918 but, for reasons including declining religious belief and the retreat from empire, interest in the saint waned throughout the 20th century. More recently this has been reversed, mainly because of a resurgence in English nationalism, with the most negative manifestation of this being the attempts by far right groups to appropriate St George and his flag to further an explicitly racist agenda. The irony that they are embracing a saint of Middle Eastern origin who is venerated throughout Europe and beyond appears to be lost on them. Hopefully, more positive aspects of the historical St George and his legend will provide material that can unite rather than divide during our uncertain times. PL AN A LEGENDARY 2019 This year we’re celebrating the myths, legends and folklore connected to our sites. For more details, go to www.english-heritage.org.uk/tellingtales
STORIES OF ENGL AND
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Game Larder, Brodsworth Hall and Gardens WORDS MICHAEL KLEMPERER PHOTOGR APH LISA STONEBRIDGE
The Victorian game larder at Brodsworth Hall and Gardens in South Yorkshire is a unique octagonal structure, with a pitched zinc roof and slats to allow air to circulate around the game once hung inside. It was originally created by Charles Sabine Thellusson, who transformed Brodsworth into a Victorian gentleman’s estate during the 1860s, when driven shooting was fashionable and became the focus of the Thellussons’ social life over winter. Positioned under shady trees near to Brodsworth’s scullery and gun room, the game larder was built on raised supports, with a fine mesh between the slats to keep vermin and flies out. Inside, the game was hung on rods above a small table the head keeper used to keep records. Over the decades since its creation, the larder had fallen into disrepair and a project was launched in 2018 to install a new floor and replace missing zinc louvers and the rods used for hanging the game. Externally, a path leading to the larder has been restored, with pines, strawberry trees and box plants lining the area as shown in original period photographs. A rare horse-drawn cart used to collect and transport game also had a purpose-built trolley made to enable it to be brought out on very special occasions.
SEE IT YOURSELF To plan a visit to Brodsworth Hall and Gardens, go to www.english-heritage.org.uk/brodsworth
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SEE HOW TO ENJOY THE OUTDOORS LIKE A VICTORIAN www.english-heritage. org.uk/magazine
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Crossing the divide Thanks to an innovative new footbridge, the historic island site of Tintagel Castle in Cornwall will be connected to the mainland once again WORDS JEREMY ASHBEE & REUBEN BRIGGS
Castles aren’t meant to be easy to get into, but Tintagel Castle in Cornwall has always been one of the trickiest. However, work is underway to create a spectacular new bridge that will allow modern visitors to follow in the footsteps of the men and women of history and legend for the first time in centuries. The way into Tintagel was so awkward that it gave the site its name: in Cornish, Din Tagell means something like ‘the fortress of the choke point’. Geoffrey of Monmouth, writing in the mid-12th century, described how the only entrance to the ancient fortress of Tintagel ran across a rocky isthmus, apparently so narrow that ‘three armed men could defend it against you, even if you had all the men of Britain on your side.’ When Earl Richard of Cornwall chose to build himself a new castle here in the 1230s, the same isthmus connected the outer bailey of the castle with the inner enclosure, where his 34
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great hall and chambers lay, and he gave it the additional protection of a stone tower. But some time in the 15th or 16th century, there was a massive rockfall and much of the crossing fell into the sea, leaving a yawning chasm across the central part of the site. Intrepid visitors of around 1700 made their way across a rickety bridge of timber poles: an early drawing even shows a man using a rope to climb up the cliff. In the 19th and 20th centuries, there have been steep rock-cut steps, a great improvement in safety, but hard for many people to climb, and very prone to long queues during busy times. The beautiful new bridge is designed to solve these problems of access by reinstating the historic link from one clifftop to the other. Rather than climb down one cliff and up the other, visitors will be walking almost literally where their forebears had once stood.
BEHIND THE SCENES
Recreating history This reconstruction painting shows the stronghold of Cornish kings at Tintagel between the 5th and 7th centuries. During this period it was a prosperous and highly significant site, closely involved in trade with the Mediterranean world. The narrow isthmus or land bridge can be seen in the foreground.
Improving access The beautiful new bridge will dramatically improve access to Tintagel as visitors will no longer have to climb over 100 steps to reach the island. The bridge will recreate the historic link between the mainland and island wards of the castle, providing step-free access along the route the original inhabitants would have taken.
Landmark design The bridge has been designed by Ney and Partners and William Matthews Associates, who were appointed after winning an international design competition. Their design is for a cantilever bridge – one of the oldest forms of bridge – comprising two prefabricated sections that will sit in foundations on either side and meet in the middle.
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SEE OUR VIDEO ON THE CREATION OF THE BRIDGE www.english-heritage. org.uk/magazine
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BEHIND THE SCENES
Traditional skills
Unique surface
Bridge building
The Delabole slate quarry in Cornwall is local to Tintagel Castle and has been in production for over 1,000 years. The slate quarried here is of the highest quality and is still split and dressed on site using traditional methods. Delabole have been commissioned to supply the slate that will be used to create the bridge walkway.
The deck of the bridge will be formed of over 40,000 individually hand-cut slates. These will be packed together and laid on edge to form a beautiful and textured surface. Many of the slates will also carry personal inscriptions from donors on their face, allowing people to become part of Tintagel’s history.
The bridge is divided into 16 sections, each with five key elements: the lower chord, upper chord, deck bracing, Telford bracing and finger joints. These are being fabricated and then assembled by skilled welders. Each section will be constructed upside down, until the whole bridge is laid out across the workshop.
a ing flig t Tintagel Castle’s remote location means traditional methods of construction are not appropriate. For this reason the project began with a series of helicopter lifts. Expert pilots were employed to deliver hundreds of tons of material to the island and to help construct the cable crane that will be used to transport each section of the bridge to its final position.
Piecing it together The bridge is being constructed at a steel fabrication workshop in Plymouth, a process involving precision machining and expert welding. Many of the stainlesssteel components have been milled, laser-cut or water-cut by specialists. The pieces are then transferred to the fabricator who carefully welds all the pieces together.
DISCOVER MORE For more details on the project, and to watch our video on the creation of the new footbridge, go to www.english-heritage. org.uk/members www.english-heritage.org.uk
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LUCKY BREAK Exclusive tours of England’s finest historic sites are all part of the experience on English Heritage and Just Go Holidays’ new short breaks WORD AND PHOTOGR APHS OLIVER BERRY
‘A
re you ready to be amazed?’ asked tour guide Maggie Herod, as she padded along one of Wrest Park’s winding corridors and stopped outside a nondescript doorway. ‘You lucky things. You’re about to see one of the finest rooms in Bedfordshire, if not all of England. In fact, I think it’s a masterpiece, and most visitors never get the chance to see it – so really, you should count yourself very fortunate.’ Beaming with pride, she opened the door and led us inside. As my eyes adjusted to the gloom, visions of exotic lands, a crumbling temple and slender palm trees framing distant pyramids stretched away into infinity on all four walls. ‘Isn’t it wonderful?’ asked Herod. ‘It’s known as the Eldorado design. The wallpaper was made by a French company called Zuber in around 1848. Though it looks like it’s been painted by hand, it’s actually printed using 1,554 different blocks and 120 colours and, as far as we know, it’s the only complete example anywhere in the country. When it was made, it would have been fabulously expensive. Today, it’s simply priceless.’ Built in the 1830s by Thomas, Earl de Grey, the first president of the Royal Institute of British Architects, Wrest Park is celebrated for its ornate architecture and extensive grounds, and features 38
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H I S T O R I C H O L I D AY S
Clockwise from left The group soak up the atmosphere in the anteroom of Wrest Park in Bedfordshire; tour guide Maggie Herod reveals the secrets of the Eldorado wallpaper at Wrest Park; pausing for thought in the gardens of Audley End in Essex; taking in the view from the front entrance of Wrest Park; making new friends; strolling into the past on Wrest Park’s Chinese Bridge
as the centrepiece of a unique new five-day tour of the East of England, run by Just Go Holidays in partnership with English Heritage. The tour also includes stops at Cambridge’s Fitzwilliam Museum, the Jacobean manor of Audley End in Essex and the market town of Ely in Cambridgeshire to see its magnificent cathedral and the home of Oliver Cromwell, concluding with a ride along the Nene Valley Railway aboard the Flying Scotsman. Accommodation, meals and coach transport are provided and, at many of the sites, visitors are treated to special guided tours or behind-the-scenes access with experienced English Heritage guides.
New horizons
‘It’s such a wonderful way to see sites I’ve always wanted to visit, but which are too far away to travel to on my own,’ explained Bernadette Sowerby, who had travelled down from Leeds for the tour with her friend Jean Newsome. ‘We’re both fascinated by history, and it’s given us a chance to discover places we might not have had the chance to see otherwise.’ ‘I’ve loved every minute,’ agreed Eleanor Capes, as she strolled through the flower-filled gardens of Audley
End. ‘I’d never heard of many of the places we’ve visited, so for me it’s been full of surprises. Also, I’d never done a coach tour before, so I was a bit apprehensive – but I’d definitely consider doing another one now.’ She stopped to take a picture of the house, taking time to frame the gravel walkways and tinkling fountain against its Jacobean facade. It was a clear, cerulean blue autumn day. Bees buzzed through the lavender beds, visitors meandered happily round the gardens, and the only sound to be heard was the gentle drone of a lawnmower buzzing across the estate’s grassy lawns. ‘It’s easy to forget how beautiful England is, isn’t it?’ added Jill Warnock, as she rested on a bench and took in the view. ‘We tend not to stop and look as much as we should. But it really is a special place, and I think we all need to be reminded of that sometimes. For me, that’s what taking trips like this are all about.’ DISCOVER MORE For details of all our new historic short breaks, go to www justgoholidays com eh or call 03332 342488 for a brochure Calls are free within inclusive minutes packages, otherwise standard rates apply www.english-heritage.org.uk
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Feed mind, body and spirit with a pilgrimage along these historic trails we’ve created in collaboration with the British Pilgrimage Trust – and discover the story of England at our historic sites along the way WORDS HELEN DORRIT T ILLUSTR ATION PATRICK BOYER
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M U LT I - S I T E
Pilgrimage was once an everyday part of life in England. Undertaken as a means of religious contemplation, it was enjoyed by rich and poor alike. After being banned in 1538 by Henry VIII and Thomas Cromwell, the well-trodden routes that pilgrims had followed for centuries became forgotten. Yet these ancient paths are enjoying a modern-day renaissance. Whether done for religious reasons or simply as a way to enjoy life at a slower pace for a few days, a walk along a pilgrimage route is a wonderfully tranquil way both to see beautiful countryside and to explore historic buildings. ‘As you walk, you can practise mindfulness, notice plants and animals, sing a song or be silent,’ says Dr Guy Hayward, co-founder of the British Pilgrimage Trust (britishpilgrimage.org). ‘Pilgrimage is yours to discover.’ The trust has put together a series of walks that traverse ancient routes and visit our properties on the way, allowing you to take time out of everyday life and listen to the echoes of those who trod the paths before you. Turn the page for a selection of routes across the country. www.english-heritage.org.uk
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St Edmund’s Way, Suffolk Distance/duration 22 miles/2 days Start/end point Thetford Priory to Bury St Edmunds Abbey Getting there and back Train to Thetford and from Bury St Edmunds, or bus and taxi to Thetford if parking car in Bury St Edmunds. Alternatively, park at Thetford and then take the train or bus/taxi back at the end of the walk Accommodation West Stow, Flempton or Lackford (West Stow is on the route, Flempton and Lackford are walking distance from the route) Terrain ootpaths fields and small sections of road Properties visited Thetford Priory, Church of the Holy Sepulchre and Bury St Edmunds Abbey
Travelling from Thetford Priory, walk along the Icknield Way towards Bury St Edmunds, the resting place of King Edmund, who was martyred by the Danes in 869. Thetford Priory was one of the largest priories in medieval East Anglia, and became a place of pilgrimage due to a miracle-working statue of the Virgin Mary. Less than half-a-mile away is the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Both the church and priory fell into disrepair after the Reformation. In addition to these English Heritage properties, you’ll also be able to see a number of other historic sites, including the medieval stone Barnham Cross, which marks the boundary between Norfolk and Suffolk, and the reconstructed fifth and seventh-century Anglo-Saxon village of West Stow. Your pilgrimage will end at Bury St Edmunds Abbey – see if you can time your arrival to coincide with evensong.
Four pilgrim routes, Canterbury, Kent Distance/duration Between 7 and 12 miles/ 1 day each Terrain ootpaths fields and road Route one Old Way (start at Patrixbourne, 8 miles), visiting St Augustine’s Abbey and St Augustine’s Conduit House Route two North Downs Pilgrims’ Way (start at Chilham, 7 miles), visiting St Augustine’s Abbey and St Augustine’s Conduit House Canterbury has welcomed pilgrims for over 1,000 years, attracted by the cathedral, St Martin’s Church – the oldest church in the English-speaking world – and its many other churches, saints and holy springs. It’s where St Augustine first settled on his mission from Rome to convert England to Christianity, where Archbishop Thomas Becket was murdered in 1170, and immortalised by Chaucer in his Canterbury Tales. ‘There are currently several pilgrimage routes into Canterbury, as there would have been in the medieval heyday of pilgrimage,’ says Hayward. We’ve suggested four routes that all end in Canterbury Cathedral, which can be done individually or put together into a week’s holiday. They visit a number of our properties, including the sixth-century St Augustine’s Abbey, the 13th-century wayside hospital Maison Dieu and Faversham Stone Chapel. Arrive at the cathedral for choral evensong to enter free of charge. 42
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Route three Augustine Camino (start at Faversham, 12 miles), visiting Faversham Stone Chapel, Maison Dieu, St Augustine’s Abbey and St Augustine’s Conduit House Route four The Via Francigena (start at Shepherdswell, 11 miles), visiting St Augustine’s Abbey and St Augustine’s Conduit House
M U LT I - S I T E
Camino Ingles, County Durham Distance/duration 20 miles/3 days Start/end point Escomb Church to Finchale Priory Getting there and back Train to Bishop Auckland station, then taxi to Escomb Church, or the number 86 bus from Bishop Auckland (not Sundays). Taxi from Finchale Priory or number 42 bus from HMP Frankland to Durham, where there is a train station Accommodation First night at Bishop Auckland, Binchester, Byers Green or Whitworth. Second night at Durham Terrain ootpaths fields and small sections of road Properties visited Auckland Castle Deer House and Finchale Priory
The Camino de Santiago is one of the most well-known pilgrimage routes in the world and this is a recognised English section of it, taken at a leisurely pace over a total of three days so that you have plenty of time to explore all the area has to offer. Day one is a short walk from Escomb to Bishop Auckland, where you can visit Auckland Castle Deer House, an 18th-century feeding place and shelter for the deer of the parkland. Day two goes from Bishop Auckland to Durham through the Weardale valley, part of the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and where you might be lucky enough to spy black grouse and adders. Start day three with a morning of exploring Durham, a stunning city that’s a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, with attractions including the Norman cathedral and the 11th-century castle. In the afternoon, set off along the Weardale Way to the spectacular ruins of Finchale Priory on the banks of the river Wear, where the 12th-century hermit Godric lived for 50 years. It was from here that Godric made one of the earliest recorded pilgrimages from England to Santiago in northern Spain – so if this walk has inspired you, this could be your next challenge.
This page The spectacular ruins of Finchale Priory in County Durham Facing page, from top Bury St Edmunds Abbey in Suffolk, with St Edmundsbury Cathedral in the distance; St Augustine’s Abbey in Kent was built to mark the rebirth of Christianity in southern England
DISCOVER ALL 10 OF OUR NEW PILGRIM TRAILS www.english-heritage. org.uk/magazine
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The Abbesses’ Way, Shropshire Distance/duration 20 miles/2 days Terrain ootpaths fields and roads some uphill Start/end point Wenlock Priory to Shrewsbury Abbey Getting there and back Train to Telford, then bus or taxi to Much Wenlock. Return train from Shrewsbury Accommodation First night at Much Wenlock (for an easier 14-mile leg from Wenlock to Atcham, arrive the afternoon before, see Wenlock Priory, and stay overnight to make an early start from Wenlock). First or second night at Acton Burnell, Eaton Mascott or Atcham Properties visited Wenlock Priory, Langley Chapel and Acton Burnell Castle
‘Wenlock Priory and Shrewsbury Abbey were founded during the Saxon period, at a time when women were very powerful in the Church, and two beautiful towns have been built around these great holy places,’ says Hayward. Wenlock Priory was once a pilgrimage site for those paying homage to the relics of eighth-century abbess St Milburga. Afterwards, visit Much Wenlock’s holy wells of St Milburga and St Owen before ascending the ridge of Wenlock Edge. Revel in the rolling Shropshire landscape, especially at the Church of St John the Baptist in Kenley, then walk to Langley Chapel and Acton Burnell Castle, a now-ruined medieval fortified manor house. Then follow field and road to St Eata’s Church, Atcham, before the final approach via the River Severn and Rea Brook to Shrewsbury Abbey, which houses the remaining part of the shrine to abbess St Winefride, whose remains were brought here in 1138.
This image Abbotsbury, St Catherine’s Chapel was built by the monks of the nearby Abbotsbury Abbey Top The tranquil ruins of Wenlock Priory in Shropshire
South Dorset Old Stones Way, Dorset Distance/duration 10 miles/1 day Terrain Mainly fields and footpaths small sections of road, some uphill Start/end point Littlebredy Church to Abbotsbury, St Catherine’s Chapel Getting there and back Taxi to Littlebredy Church and return taxi from Abbotsbury. The nearest train station is Dorchester
South Dorset’s gentle countryside is rich in prehistoric sites, and this route allows you to reflect on ancient vistas. ‘This landscape is charged by ancient stones,’ says Hayward. ‘Walking through it immerses you in a land before records began.’ From the start at Littlebredy Church, walk through the Valley of Stones towards The Grey Mare and Her Colts – a long barrow guarded by three great stones – and the 4,000 yearold Kingston Russell Stone Circle. Then delve down into the woods to find a secret ruined chapel with just an arch, altar and a few gravestones remaining. Climb to the Iron Age Abbotsbury Castle Hillfort, which offers unrivalled views to the sea, then walk the Ridgeway and descend into the village of Abbotsbury. Here you’ll find the remains of a 13th-century abbey and the hilltop church of St Catherine’s Chapel, where local women wanting to find a husband prayed to the saint for her help. 44
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Properties visited Kingston Russell Stone Circle, Abbotsbury Abbey and Abbotsbury, St Catherine’s Chapel
DISCOVER MORE To plan your walks and to download maps, go to the Members’ Area of our website at www.english-heritage.org.uk/magazine
M U LT I S I T E
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North Yorkshire Moors Railway
Yorkshire by Steam
5 DAYS
Discover glorious Yorkshire, from the edge of the rugged Dales to its spectacular coastline, via its majestic moorland. Take in ancient York, discover delightful Brontë country and embark on scenic heritage railway journeys. Keighley, the steam-hauled* trip takes you up the Worth Valley to Oxenhope, passing the rugged hills, rustic stone cottages and wild farmland immortalised in the 1970 film ‘The Railway Children’, which was filmed here. Later, continue to the picturesque Day 2 Historic York village of Haworth stopping at the Brontë Take the train to nearby York today, and Parsonage, home to the famous literary admire this beautiful walled city with Roman sisters. It was here, amid the wonderfully and medieval architecture in abundance on dramatic landscape, that the Brontës were a guided walking tour. You see landmarks inspired to write novels such as Wuthering such as the magnificent Minster, and the Heights and Jane Eyre. quaint medieval Shambles. Following the tour you are free to explore. Day 5 Homeward bound After breakfast you are free to depart from Day 3 North Yorkshire Moors Railway Harrogate. Today travel by coach to Goathland, made famous as Aidensfield in ‘Heartbeat’, and *Steam-hauled where possible then continue to Whitby. Crowned by its brooding abbey and famous as the setting for Bram Stoker’s Dracula, Whitby boasts WHITBY some of the UK’s finest fish and chip GOATHLAND restaurants. Enjoy free time here to explore PICKERING before boarding the North Yorkshire Moors HARROGATE railway back to Pickering and Harrogate. 4 This enthralling journey by steam* crosses YORK the breathtaking North York Moors National KEIGHLEY HAWORTH Park and sees you travel in heritage OXENHOPE carriages.
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Day 1 Meet in Harrogate Your discovery of Yorkshire begins in Harrogate, an attractive Georgian spa town. Here you meet your Tour Manager at your hotel.
Day 4 Worth Valley and the Brontës Enjoy a nostalgic journey on the heritage Keighley & Worth Valley Railway. From
Nights in hotel
By Coach
By Rail
£375
✓ Fully escorted by a UK Tour Manager from start to finish ✓ All rail and coach travel throughout ✓ 4 nights’ hotel accommodation ✓ 8 meals including 4 breakfasts and 4 dinners ✓ Guided tour of York ✓ Journey on the Keighley & Worth Valley Steam Railway ✓ Visit to the Brontë Parsonage ✓ Scenic journey on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway ✓ Excursion to Whitby with free time
Dates and Prices 31 Mar 19 Sold out 7 Apr 19 £395 11, 14, 21 Apr 19 £415 25 Apr 19 £415 28 Apr 19 Sold out 5, 9, 13 May 19 £425 16, 19 May 19 £425 26, 27 May 19 £425 2, 4 Jun 19 £425 9, 17 Jun 19 £425 23, 30 Jun 19 £425 21 Jul 19 £395
28 Jul 19 4, 11, 18 Aug 19 25, 26 Aug 19 1, 8, 9 Sep 19 16 Sep 19 29 Sep 19 30 Sep 19 3 Oct 19 6 Oct 19 10, 13 Oct 19 20 Oct 19 27 Oct 19
£395 £395 £415 £425 £425 £425 £425 £415 £415 £415 £395 £375
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01904 730506 www.raildiscoveries.com/YHS This tour may be suitable for reduced mobility passengers. Please call for details. Book with 100% confidence, flight-inclusive holidays are ATOL or ABTOT protected, non flight-inclusive holidays are protected by ABTOT. Dates and prices are subject to availability. Prices shown are per person, based on 2 people sharing. Prices may change prior to and after publication. Itinerary may differ depending on the departure date you choose. Terms and conditions apply. Please call for further details. Calls will be recorded.
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Primula bulleyana H: 60cm (24"), S: 30cm (12")
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HE WELL-LOVED BRITISH PRIMROSE, GROWING WILD IN THE MEADOWS HAS LONG BEEN A SWEET SIGN OF SPRING. The lollipop-shaped flowers are adorable and vibrantly coloured, making a stunning combination when planted with spring flowering tulips and daffodils. All love to be bathed in sun during spring but require cooler shade during the heat of summer. Prefer moist well-drained soil in part shade. Fully hardy perennials. Your order will be confirmed along with a copy of our latest catalogue and your young plants will be delivered from early May onwards with our No Quibble Guarantee.
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This image Esther, Matt, Reuben and Anna Wild at Kirby Muxloe Castle in Leicestershire Inset Reuben’s winning sandcastle
MY EXPERIENCE
‘The secret to building a good sandcastle’ Reuben Wild reveals how he created his competition-winning castle
W
and weapons from the 19th and 20th centuries and the naval in uence on its design. I built my sandcastle on Great Molunan in Cornwall. Pendennis Castle is across the water and St Mawes Castle is round the corner, so there are two castles in view from the beach! I just made up the design for my sandcastle on the day. I took features that I liked from the sandcastles that I’d previously created and real castles that I have
visited. I merged them all together and elaborated on them in the space I marked out. We won a weekend break in an English Heritage cottage and we’ve booked to stay at Hardwick Old Hall in Derbyshire. The secret to building a good sandcastle is dedication. If you give yourself enough time, persevere and enjoy your work it will look spectacular when it is done. www.english-heritage.org.uk/pendennis www.english-heritage.org.uk
ADRIAN JONES
e saw a board advertising the sandcastle-building competition in front of St Mawes Castle in Cornwall. My mum encouraged me to enter because I am quite creative and I have made some very detailed sandcastles before. I enjoy history and am interested in the design of castles. My favourite castle is probably Pendennis Castle. I like the different eras on display – particularly the buildings
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IT’S THE FORT THAT COUNTS... EARN A £10 MARKS & SPENCER VOUCHER WHEN YOU REFER A FRIEND Fill out your details below, then pass the coupon on to a friend or relative. When they join, you’ll get a £10 Marks & Spencer voucher and they’ll receive £10 off their annual membership*.
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OUT & ABOUT
Over to you
www.english-heritage.org.uk/magazine facebook.com/englishheritage twitter.com/englishheritage
Share your stories and send us your experiences, photos and tips
An unexpected surprise
Lesley Taylor’s mystery watercolour painting of Stonehenge
We recently visited the York Cold War Bunker. Once there we had a 10-minute wait for the next tour and off we went, starting with a video to explain why it was there before we were led around by a guide for about an hour. He was an excellent guide with a good sense of humour who took immense pride in the building. The exhibits and rooms are well-preserved and well displayed. However, the guide brought the place to life by describing what it was like for the volunteers who manned the station and with little anecdotes that he had gleaned from the volunteers. The bunker is well worth a visit and hats off to English Heritage for preserving a little bit of our recent history, and thanks to the current staff manning the bunker. Richard Fuggle
Stonehenge mystery Can you please help me find out more about this postcard-sized watercolour painting? It belonged to my great-grandmother, who lived in Lockerley. I would be interested in finding out about the artist and when it was painted. My understanding is it was painted around the turn of the last century. Lesley Taylor
Richard Fuggle enjoyed a visit to York Cold War Bunker
TRENDING What’s got you talking on our social media channels?
instagram.com/englishheritage
Susan Greaney, senior properties historian, replies: This is rather lovely but I suspect this is just a local amateur artist – I’ve not seen it before and I don’t recognise the artist’s monogram (IOR?). We can certainly say that it was painted before 1901, when the leading Stone 56 was reset to vertical. And, by the style of the dress,
Stunning views
Fit for a queen
The video in this tweet, of Beeston Castle, from where you can see all the way from the Pennines to the Welsh mountains, has had over 4,600 views. bit.ly/2ROblSJ
Our video from Kenilworth Castle on how to recreate Elizabeth I’s make-up has almost 2.5 million views and over 3,700 comments. bit.ly/2UMDNWT
I would have thought any time during the 19th century really.
Kenilworth Castle siege In the October 2018 issue, Richard Nevell stated that a six-month siege of Kenilworth Castle is the longest in English history. According to my research, Skipton Castle was besieged for three years. Which is correct? Bryan Dexter Richard Nevell, properties historian, replies: I should have been clearer that the siege of Kenilworth was the longest siege in England’s medieval history. Parliamentarian forces did indeed besiege Skipton Castle in Yorkshire for three years, and its garrison eventually surrendered on 22 December 1645.
Charming chapel This evocative photo of the beautiful 15thcentury Percy Chantry at Tynemouth Priory in Tyne and Wear has picked up more than 5,000 likes. bit.ly/2I24CF2 english-heritage.org.uk
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MEMBERS’ AREA
WHAT’S NEW? Log in at www.english-heritage. org.uk/magazine
Recreating Tintagel’s historic bridge Go behind the scenes of the creation of the new footbridge at Tintagel in this exclusive video
Ask the experts The English Heritage team answers your questions
Jeremy Ashbee
Will Wyeth
Howard Spencer
Head properties curator
Properties historian
Senior historian, blue plaques
Kenilworth Castle in Warwickshire
Go on a modern-day pilgrimage ownload maps of historic trails that take in a selection of our properties along the way
Interview with Dido Belle Three young Members travel to enwood to find out what life was like for ido in Georgian England
Enjoy the outdoors the Victorian way From picnicking to games of croquet, experience the great outdoors at our sites like the Victorians did
Joe and Janice ask… it is known how old castles looked, is it Q Ifpossible to restore them to their former appearance when they were whole? Jeremy Ashbee replies… is sometimes possible but it’s rarer in this A Itcountry than in some other European countries. There is a big issue about whether we actually know enough to be confident that the reconstruction is correct. But there is also a broader tradition in this country that holds that the historical process of change is an important one, and that restoration can obscure the evidence of it. For example, the great tower of Kenilworth Castle was altered numerous times from the 13th century onwards before it was ruined in the 17th century, so it’s hard to say that the building’s appearance in the 12th century trumps all the others. Alan Peters asks… have often wondered about the Q Iconstruction of Norman motte-andbailey castles. How was it possible to build a heavy stone keep on top of an earth and rubble mound without it rapidly subsiding and falling down?
Will Wyeth replies… short answer is, sometimes it wasn’t! A The Not all mounds were created equal. Some were modified natural hummocks, some were prehistoric or early medieval monuments, and some were newly built in the later medieval period. Sometimes, timber or stone towers were built with mounds piled up against them to avoid a collapse of the kind you mention. It is likely that the foundations of great towers were carefully prepared, with packed earth, rubble or staking forming a foundation. The most spectacular evidence for the engineering difficulty involved can be seen at uffus Castle in Moray, Scotland: a whole portion of its great tower collapsed into the moat. Sue Bryant asks… many current blue plaques Q How honour women? Howard Spencer replies… the official ondon pla ues, 1 0 A Among currently honour women, or 14 per cent of the total. This disparity is partly because it is only over the last century or so that numbers of women achieved the kind of profile that might be expected to gain public commemoration. And credit has not always been given where credit was due – hence our appeal for more suggestions of women with ondon addresses for our experts to consider. Over the last two years, they have accepted more women for plaques than men – a sign that times are changing, at last.
SEND US A QUESTION For your chance to have your questions answered by one of our English Heritage experts, email us at membersmagazine@immediate.co.uk
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Taj Mahal
FIVE-STAR INDIA’S GOLDEN TRIANGLE, TIGERS & SHIMLA 14 DAYS FROM £2,045 Marvel at historic temples, spot an elusive tiger and visit beautiful palaces and gardens as we explore kaleidoscopic India, taking in tranquil of Shimla, enigmatic Delhi, the ‘Pink City’ of Jaipur and Agra with its marble icon, the Taj Mahal.
ITINERARY
INNER
WHAT’S INCLUDED • Fully escorted by a UK Tour Manager from start to finish • Return flights from London Heathrow to Delhi
Days 1-2. Fly to Delhi. We depart from London Heathrow on our flight to Delhi, arriving on Day 2. We spend the night at the Taj Palace. Days 3-5. Shimla. We board the Shatabdi Express to Kalka, where we join the ‘Toy Train’ for a journey through the mountains to Shimla. We begin Day 4 with a talk from our guest speaker, Raaja Bhasin, before a sightseeing tour that takes in the local colonial heritage. On Day 5 you are free to explore, or join an optional excursion to upper Shimla and Wildflower Hall (payable locally). Days 6-7. Old and New Delhi. We return to Delhi for two nights. On Day 7 we visit Old Delhi, taking a rickshaw ride to Chandni Chowk. We also visit the Jama Masjid, Raj Ghat, and Delhi’s Red Fort. Later we explore New Delhi, seeing India Gate, the Rashtrapati Bhavan, Humayun’s Tomb and Qutab Minar. Day 8. The Taj Mahal and Agra Fort. We join the Gatimaan Express to Agra, where we visit the imposing Red Fort, considered India’s most important fortification. Later, we visit the iconic Taj Mahal, one of the new Seven Wonders of the World and a stunning example of Mughal and Persian architecture. Day 9. Fatehpur Sikri. We depart Agra by coach, stopping at Fatehpur Sikri, a preserved 16th century red sandstone city, for a guided tour. We continue to Ranthambore, where our hotel is the Sawai Vilas, set within acres of gardens on the border of Ranthambore National Park and Tiger Reserve. Days 10-11. Ranthambore. Ranthambore National Park is one of the best places in the world to spot wild tigers, and we hope
to catch a glimpse of these majestic creatures on our game drive this afternoon. We have a further morning game drive on Day 11, increasing our chances of spotting wildlife including leopards and crocodiles, before we continue to Jaipur for two nights. Day 12. Jaipur. We enjoy a tour of the ‘Pink City’ today, travelling by Jeep to the Amber Fort to explore the ornate rooms within the palace complex. Later, we see the City Palace, the 18th century Astronomical Observatory and the beautiful façade of the Palace of the Winds. Days 13-14. Delhi and home. This afternoon we drive back to Delhi for our final evening. On Day 14, we fly to London, arriving in the afternoon.
USA COAST TO COAST
GRAND TOUR OF CHINA
By Rail By Coach
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3
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Delhi
1+ 2 +1
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INDIA
Experience a once-in-a-lifetime rail journey across the most diverse country in the world. Your photo album will include many of America’s highlights including the Statue of Liberty, the White House, the Rockies, the Grand Canyon, Hollywood and the Golden Gate Bridge.
A dizzying mix of ancient cultures, breathtaking natural beauty and dynamic urban landscapes, China is a feast for all of the senses. Beijing, the Terracotta Warriors, pandas and a cruise on the Yangtze combine to offer an unforgettable experience.
20 DAYS FROM £3,995
15 DAYS FROM £2,995
• All rail and coach travel throughout • 12 nights’ hotel accommodation • 30 meals including 12 breakfasts, 6 lunches and 12 dinners • Journeys on the Shatabdi Express and UNESCO-listed Toy Train • Guided city tour of Old Delhi andNew Delhi • Sightseeing tour of Shimla • Jaipur, including the City Palace, Astronomical Observatory and Palace of the Winds • Visit to the iconic Taj Mahal • Excursions to Fatehpur Sikri and the Amber Fort • 2 game drives in Ranthambore National Park • Expert talk from a specialist guest speaker
DEPARTURES 19 SEP 19 26 SEP 19 6 OCT 19 10 OCT 19 24 OCT 19 31 OCT 19 3, 7 NOV 19 14 NOV 19 17, 21 NOV 19 28 NOV 19 19 DEC 19
£2,045 £2,195 £2,395 £2,455 £2,445 £2,445 £2,395 £2,345 £2,295 £2,195 £2,595
16 JAN 20 23 JAN 20 30 JAN 20 2, 9, 13 FEB 20 20, 27 FEB 20 4 MAR 20 8 MAR 20 15 MAR 20 19 MAR 20 26 MAR 20 2 APR 20
£2,295 £2,345 £2,445 £2,495 £2,495 £2,495 £2,445 £2,345 £2,295 £2,195 £2,095
Departures between September and December 2020 also available. Please call for details.
EUROPE | WORLDWIDE | THE GREAT BRITISH ISLES | FIVE-STAR RIVER CRUISING
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RUNNING HEAD
Members’ events
BEST OF THE REST Spring events
Five of our unmissable Member-exclusive events over the months ahead
1
Events for everyone taking place throughout the spring
24 May
Victoria 200: Royal Fashion
Witley Court and Gardens, Worcestershire To coincide with the 200th anniversary of the birth of Queen Victoria, take a journey through the royal fashions of Victoria’s time and discover how she championed British clothing manufacturing. Plus, hear about some of Victoria’s descendants who were known for their love of fashion, and see examples of these stunning outfits.
Meet the Author: This is Not a Book About Charles Darwin
Home of Charles Darwin – Down House, Kent
4
10 Apr
The Gardens of Mount Grace: One Year On
WHAT’S ON
3
14 May
Memories From the Frontline
Wrest Park, Bedfordshire
Jerry Palmer talks about the published memoirs written by nurses during and after the Great War that featured in his book, Memories From the Frontline. This was the first time in history that a large number of women had been so closely involved with war.
See the changes of the Marble Hill Revived project as they unfold. Marble Hill House, London, 14 April & 12 May
MARCH–MAY 2019
Here be dragons… Join the hunt for dragons’ eggs on our Easter Adventure Quests
Mount Grace Priory, House and Gardens, North Yorkshire
INSIDE WWII Weekend, Get Hands on With History, Knights’ Tournaments, St George’s Festival and more!
Join Emma Darwin, the great-greatgranddaughter of Charles Darwin, as she explores her family history, including the first Erasmus Darwin, and later generations such as John Cornford and Ralph Vaughan Williams, and introduces us to her new book, This is Not a Book About Charles Darwin.
Tours of the Historic Landscape
Head gardener James Taylor leads a tour of the priory’s gardens. See how they have been transformed one year on from the implementation of the new planting scheme, designed by gardening great Chris Beardshaw.
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15 May
Manchester’s Industrial Heritage
Ancoats, Manchester
Join expert guide Emma Fox on this walking tour of Ancoats, the ‘world’s first industrial suburb’. You will explore this fascinating area, which thrived during the Industrial Revolution. See buildings dating from the days when Manchester was the international centre of the cotton trade, and hear about how they are being developed for use today.
For more Members’ events, go to www.english-heritage.org.uk/members-events
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2
3 Apr
Knights’ Tournament Meet medieval re-enactors and see exciting displays of fighting knights. Framlingham Castle, Suffolk, 5–6 May
For highlights of this season’s exclusive Members’ events see your What’s On guide with this issue Memories From the Frontline at Wrest Park
Regency Revels Enjoy performances that recreate the grand opening of Belsay Hall in 1818. Belsay Hall, Castle and Gardens, Northumberland, 25–27 May
Clash of the Romans Two teams compete on the archery field and clash with swords and shields. Old Sarum,Wiltshire, 26–27 May
Get Hands on With History: Castles earn the tools of the trade and become a knight or princess for the day. Bolsover Castle, Derbyshire, 28 May–2 June www.english-heritage.org. uk/events
2020 RIVER CRUISES Portugal’s River of Gold
10 days, 8 guided tours Departing March to December 2020
From £1,495pp Elegant Elbe
10 days, 7 guided tours Departing March to November 2020
From £1,995pp Rhine Getaway
8 days, 6 guided tours Departing March to December 2020
From £1,495pp Romantic Danube
8 days, 6 guided tours Departing April to December 2020
From £1,495pp Châteaux, Rivers & Wine
8 days, 7 guided tours Departing March to November 2020
From £1,395pp Waterways of the Tsars
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13 days, 10 guided tours Departing May to October 2020
Viking’s 2020 river cruises are now on sale from £1,395pp
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Imperial Jewels of China
GREAT VIKING VALUE – SO MUCH INCLUDED
Passage to Eastern Europe
11 days, 7 guided tours Departing March to October 2020
From £1,945pp 15 days, 11 guided tours Departing March to November 2020
From £2,995pp Lyon & Provence
8 days, 7 guided tours Departing March to November 2020
From £1,495pp Magnificent Mekong
17 days, 16 guided tours Departing August to December 2020
P Return scheduled flights from London and a choice of up to 14 regional airports at no extra cost
P An included excursion in almost every port
From £3,195pp Grand European Tour
P River-view stateroom
P Free tea, coffee and snacks any time on board P All port charges, government taxes and overseas transfers
From £2,795pp
P All meals on board including wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner P Free Wi-Fi on board*
P On board gratuities
15 days, 12 guided tours Departing April to November 2020
Kiev, Black Sea & Bucharest
12 days, 10 guided tours Departing May to September 2020
From £2,895pp
Call now on 020 8780 8595 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices correct at time of going to print but are subject to availability and change. From prices are per person and based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available, departing on selected dates in 2020. Prices valid until 31 March 2019. Single supplements apply. Please note on selected cruises a visa may be required and is at the passengers own expense. *Restrictions apply. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.
OUT & ABOUT
questions 20
og into the Members’ Area at www.english-heritage. org.uk/members to check your answers
Test your knowledge of abbeys and priories with our quiz
1 Which abbey in Canterbury was founded in 598? 2 Netley Abbey in Hampshire (pictured) is the most complete example in southern England of an abbey built by which order of monks?
7 What happened to the abbot of St John’s Abbey, Colchester, after the abbey refused to surrender to Henry VIII’s Commissioners during the Suppression? 8 Can you identify this priory, which is located on Holy Island just off the Northumberland coast?
13 How did Thornton Abbey in North Lincolnshire survive the Suppression? 14 The architecture of which Cistercian abbey may have inspired the design of the famous rose window at York Minster? 15 Lilleshall Abbey in Shropshire twice entertained which king in about 1240? 16 Why were canons (priests who lived a communal life according to a monastic rule) who were part of the Premonstratensian order known as ‘white canons’?
4 Whitby Abbey in North Yorkshire was founded by St Hild of Whitby in about what year? A 90 A 6 A 2 A 861
5 What caused considerable damage to Whitby Abbey in 1914? 6 Who said of Rievaulx Abbey in North Yorkshire that there was ‘everywhere peace, everywhere serenity’?
9 Which part of Battle Abbey traditionally marks the spot where King Harold was killed in the Battle of Hastings? 10 Can you name the Shropshire town with an Anglo-Saxon monastery that was the home of Dr William Penny Brookes, who inspired the creation of the modern Olympics? 11 Which monastery in Norfolk provides evidence of the Cluniac monks’ love of decoration? 12 Why did Hailes Abbey in Gloucestershire (pictured) become one of the most significant pilgrimage sites in medieval England?
17 Can you identify this 18th-century landscape gardener, who landscaped the valley in which Roche Abbey in South Yorkshire is set? 18 What was the name of the northern rebellion against Henry VIII that took place during the early stages of the Suppression? 19 Which abbey in Surrey has been used as a backdrop in the films Elizabeth (1998) and Disney’s Into the Woods (2014)? 20 The gardens of which North Yorkshire priory were recently renovated under the direction of garden designer Chris Beardshaw? Go to www.englishheritage.org.uk/kids for WIN! our kids’ competition, in which a goody bag from our online shop where you can find a wide range of items – can be won. www.english-heritage.org.uk english-heritage.org.uk
GETTY
3 Netley Abbey was the inspiration for which novel, published in 1817?
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PA S T L I V E S
Ivanhoe author Sir Walter Scott at Conisbrough Castle On the 200th anniversary of the publication of Ivanhoe, we reveal the role of this romantic fortress in Sir Walter Scott’s historical novel WORDS WILL W YE TH ILLUSTR ATION NICK HAYES
here are few more beautiful or striking scenes in England than are presented by the vicinity of this ancient Saxon fortress.’ Ivanhoe is the story of a dispossessed knight who, through the offices of a just king, is able to marry his love. Outside of the romance of this marvellous tale, Scottish writer Walter Scott’s phenomenally popular medieval yarn is also a story about the creation of a ‘British’ identity, and reveals much about important political and intellectual debates of the day. The birth of this identity was situated in an ‘ancient’ seat of kings, Conisbrough Castle in South Yorkshire. In a letter to a friend in 1811, Scott recalled glimpses of Conisbrough Castle he had seen in transit: ‘I once flew past it in the mail coach, when its round towers and flying buttresses had a most romantic effect in the morning dawn.’ Thus captivated, he embellished Conisbrough with ancient origins developed from his accurate interpretation of the origins of its Old English name Cyningesburh (‘the fort of the king’). In Ivanhoe, ‘Coningsburgh’ is the ancient seat of kings where leaders of the two ‘races’ of the kingdom – the educated but aloof Normans and resourceful but backward-looking Saxons – met to be reconciled by Richard the Lionheart.
‘T
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www.english-heritage.org.uk
‘Scott wanted to stress the potential of a newly forged British identity’
Though the castle is not as old as Scott imagined, the venue he chose to unite the groups, to forge a new English identity, was understood as a castle from a lost golden age. The motif of unity was clear: Scott wanted to stress the potential of a newly forged British identity out of the constituent peoples of the country in the aftermath of recent civil violence, at Peterloo in 1819, and the more distant Jacobite uprising of 1745. Ivanhoe, published in the same year as Peterloo, was in part Scott’s own appeal to a golden age of democracy and unity. This was also a time when intellectuals sought to explain social position and morality as products of physical or biological characteristics – racialism. The identification of the Saxon ‘race’ in England and parts of Scotland, in contrast to Gaels and Jews, underpinned how intellectuals such as Scott understood their past, in contrast to the other ‘race’ communities of 19th-century Britain. The union of ‘races’ in Ivanhoe is a significant reason why Scott’s story remained so important in school curriculums across the British Empire in the 19th century. DISCOVER MORE Plan your visit to Conisbrough Castle at www.english-heritage.org.uk/conisbrough
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www.english-heritage.org.uk
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Rievaulx Abbey, North Yorkshire
GIVING HERITAGE A FUTURE By leaving a gift in your will, you can directly contribute to our work for the benefit of generations to come hether your passion is for a specific site or for all the historic places in our care, a gift in your will enables us to look after the places that matter to you long into the future.
Dover Castle, Kent
Kate Marquis, Legacy Manager on 020 7973 3460 legacies@english-heritage.org.uk www.english-heritage.org.uk/legacies
THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT Wrest Park, Bedfordshire Princess Beatrice Garden at Carisbrooke Castle, Isle of Wight
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Marble Hill House, London