Issue 4 - WET by Iconography The Magazine

...as the photographer who captures it

aaron williams photography www.awcreativegroup.com 443-418-9693

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Editor In Chief Aaron Williams Managing Editor Ty Brown Copy Editor Miriam Hannon Editorial Assistant Taryn Bushrod Journalist Eboyneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Jackson London Price Courtntey Style Magaly Fuentes Tony Engelhart Chloe van der Wei Vanessa Willoughby Megan Burnbridge Meghan Gleason Art Directors Aaron Williams Ty Brown

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For all submissions and inquiries mail to:

Contributing Photographers Joas Carlos Stephanie Matthews AW Creative Group

Iconography is published by Think Grey Media Group 4 times yearly. No part of this publication may be produced without written permission of the publisher and editors. Iconography does not accept responsibility for unsolicited material. All views expressed are those of the writers alone and do not represent the views of Iconography and its owners.

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most most most things things things still still still remain t remain to remain to be done. be done... be done... ingvar kamprad

Fashionable Spring Clean ing

words by: Chloé F. van der Wel

toS o...

pring. The season that makes us want to stay out late and awake early, play volleyball at the beach and read spiritual books in the park, go for morning runs and drink bottles of vino at night and it definitely makes us want to go on long walks with the significant other and party all night long.

But why the line between class and trash fades in the warmer days is a mystery. First off, this has nothing to do with the exact yards of fabric you’re wearing. The Hervé Léger bondage dresses are skin revealing and Stella McCartney’s silk shorts aren’t exactly church material. Second, neither does it have anything to do with the killer heels worn under a shorter garment. The Christian Louboutin ‘So Private’ line has 12cm high stilettos. Trashy? Not so much. It’s safe to say that it’s not about the clothes-- it’s about the way you carry yourself in them. A big percentage of the young generation of females seems to have extreme difficulties in acting the part of a sophisticated young woman when the sun shines. So instead of giving you a trend layout, take the following fashion advice in consideration this season: class comes from within. So wear that Bebe dress like it’s an Léger and strut down the street like it’s a runway. And make sure you’re capable of holding your vino at anytime.

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What to wear for all of these very contradicting activities? Spring fabrics are as light as the seasonal color palette and the prints don’t vary much from ethnic or floral. Overall, spring is more comparable to a lifestyle store then a designer boutique. Fact: you will be burning in a wool trench with faux fur collar.

April Showers bring May W

words by: Courtney Style

inter is officially over and along comes a sunny summer (here’s hoping). With it, a whole new wardrobe to create. Florals have consistently represented the spirit of the season year after year. Last year was marked by bold, brash, large prints. This year focuses less on the print itself and more on the appliqués and embellishments. Subtle inspirations surface in soft layering, cool palettes and scalloping petal-like details. This season, designers indulged their urge to bend, fold, twist, and otherwise manipulate fabric in ever-unique ways!

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Marchesa is always on my wish list. Their collections, typically ripped pages of fairytales, spring/summer 09 was no different. With a no-holds-barred approach to a belle of the ball theme, tulle gowns were sprayed with orchids crafted from feathers and dresses with flowers trapped in chiffon and tulle peplum (how does Georgina Chapman dream up these visions?)

Givenchy

Off of the runways, celebrities are catching on to the 3-d flower trend! Georges Chakra’s white petaled dress, worn by Cheryl Cole to the Brit Awards sold out on net-a-porter in just one day after hitting the press. Then there’s the ever fashion forward Carrie in the opening of Sex and the City movie wearing a white body-con dress with oversized flower applique, which came out at Christmas…before it was trendy (God bless Patricia Field). And who could forget the stunning entrance by Michelle Obama at the inauguration ball, where she wore a white Jason Wu one-shoulder dress, adorned with tiny flower appliques!

marchesa

palette draped in series of blush and rose tones. The collection was a decadence of layered chiffons and satin finished evening gown, reminiscent of a garden in full bloom.

On the couture catwalks, Chanel and Givenchy, flowers also made a huge statement.

Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel had an all-white collection, with a strong influence of flowers. With the models heads decorated with exquisite paper-flower tiara constructions, it was clear this was going to be a Chanel moment to treasure. Even the pillars on stage were deeply garlanded in giant paper flowers and the staircase laden with cut-out roses and camellias.

At Givenchy, Ricardo Tisci made subtle nods to the trend— adorning the runway with rose petals and featuring a colour

So get flowery this season and infuse your wardrobe with some petal power!

Jason Wu

Trend Fall’s bold looks remind us of times gone by while moving us toward the future we want.

forecasting

words by: by Laura Shingles

ix months separated Fall Fashion Week from Spring Fashion Week, but the looks shown at each were decades apart. Gone is the Gershwin/Gatsby-inspired runway of pancake hats and cinched waists. Back, once again, are structured

shoulders and neon. In just two seasons, designers leapt from simple times to opulent

ones. Fall’s runways reflected the economy we hope for, not the one we’re currently enduring. So why the evil tease? Simple. This season is about dressing for the life you want. And, right now, we could all use a pick-me-up. The spring runway featured menswear-inspired checked shirts paired with long skirts in subdued colors. At Marc Jacobs, his nod to grandmother’s housecoat was in Balmain

stark contrast to this season’s pouf. His looks mimicked the mix of colors and prints a struggling housewife wore for lack of suitable alternatives. Picture a woman awaiting her husband’s return from work at a factory or Dorothea Lange’s “Migrant Mother.” This twenties revival, more so of the Depression years than the Roaring ones, was an apt backdrop for the economic troubles then surfacing outside the tents. It was the perfect time for fashion to remind us of that nasty little phrase, “history repeats itself.”

But fashion is over the recession. At Diane von Furstenberg, leopard prints and bold hats signaled drama. Sparkles covered almost everything at Balmain, including a square-shouldered band leader jacket reminiscent of the one Jeff Koons painted on testament to excess glam.) And then there’s Manolo Blahnik’s rainbow of suede pumps for the 2009 Material Girl.

Fashion represents fantasy and indulgence, but is also a fortuneteller of sorts. Just like last

to start having some fun again. And maybe that fun will be infectious. If we dress like we did in economically carefree times while shopping for today’s times, prosperity can’t be too far behind.

Sunny 85

Wherever you are, US

marc jacobs

to normalcy we’re all anticipating. We shouldn’t live like we did in the eighties, but we can dress like it. All those bright colors and loud embellishments are just what we need

photos courtesy of nymag.com

season’s shows preceded an economic downturn, this season will precede the return

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Diane von Furstenberg

his porcelain Michael Jackson in 1988 (“Michael Jackson and Bubbles” is the ultimate

fashion on the go

photographer: stephanie matthews hair/mua: valerie noble stylist: michelle washington lighting asst: jessica rudd wardrobe asst: tara randall models: kahshannas evans hazuki kato mandy yeung couture designs by: korto momolu shoes: chinese laundry

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words by: Eboyne' Jackson

fashion focus

ICON IN THE

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The Magnanimous Leon Curry, of Ellie Owen, Evokes a Spiritual Revival Destined to Revolutionize the Faรงade of Couture

MAK

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Introducing Leon Curry, of

t wasn’t hard for me to discern that twenty-two year old, Leon Curry, the mastermind behind Ellie Owen, is destined to become the next face of couture. This burgeoning designer captivated the “My space” fashion scene with his subtle fashions that speak a eulogy of hope, only to invade every celebrity “It” girls’ heart, such as former Danity Kane member, Aubrey O’Day, among others. Ellie Owen is a luxury brand kissed by mystics, and an alluring enigma that is undoubtedly fantasy couture. With potential to become one of the most coveted names in the fashion industry, Ellie Owen is ordained to become the future in fashion, etched in old school gospel, metallic, and techno-color.

Eboyne: Your collection, Ellie Owen, is so fabulous, and so intricately made! I am just enamored with your designs! Leon: Thank you, so much. You are too kind. Eboyne: Leon, please tell me about your life before you decided to pursue a career in fashion design?

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Leon: Well, I am a first born. My mom raised me, and she was a hard working, single parent. My mom was a teacher, and she always instilled the importance of education in me at a very young age. Early on, my mother introduced me to drawing and the arts. I have always been a creative person, mainly because my mother always nurtured my creativity. For the most part, I always excelled academically. Every one said that I would be a lawyer. (Laughs) Then I enrolled at Florida A&M University, in pursuit of a career in political science. As I pursued my career in political science, I realized that couldn’t work for someone else! (Laughs)

Eboyne: I see. . . So, what drew you to fashion-I mean, the careers are so far-fetched; what brought about the extreme transition from becoming a lawyer, to a political science major, only to become a full-fledged fashion designer? Leon: I think that I became more confident in pursuing a career in fashion during college,

because I wanted more. Although my love affair with fashion began as early as middle school, it wasn’t until years later, that I decided to really dive into it. In middle school, we had to wear these ugly uniforms, and I always found a way to put a unique spin on my uniform. I always liked to dress different and make a statement. Soon, others began to take notice at school, and they started requesting for me to make clothes for them. The first garment that I ever made was this green shift dress with leopard trim. And from that point on, I have always maintained this creative eye, and a love to create beautiful things. Eboyne: Did you go to school for fashion design? Leon: No, I taught myself. Eboyne: That’s impressive! Loen: Thank you. It all derived from passion. Eboyne: Tell me about the sole inspiration behind your brand, Ellie Owen. Leon: The name Ellie Owen is synonymous with my first name initials. Ellie Owen is a coming of age story. It’s about a girl who likes to have fun. It’s about a woman who knows herself. The Ellie Owen woman is sexy, whimsical, strong, and beautiful. The first dress I created under my line was this beautiful black dress, made with this $1.00-a-yard fabric from Wal-Mart! (Laughs)

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I thank God for that. As a young entrepreneur, I don’t have a lot of income coming in to sustain my business venture, but I don’t let that get in my way. I just find ways to be inventive, and focus on creating beautiful pieces that hopefully all women will love. Eboyne: What is the design process like for you, Leon? Leon: Well, Eboyne, I have a very complex approach to designing. I like to write out what I want my garments to look like in words first. Then I sketch what I see. And sometimes I even skip those two steps, and just head right on over to a fabric store, and let the fabric speak to me! (Laughs) I love shinny materials, and I love to mix and match. I sew all of my

“I want to be the next garments, and many of them I sew my hand. Eboyne: You are an inspiration, Leon. When I think of Ellie Owen, I think of timeless, classic beauty. What is the price range for your garments? Leon: Thanks so much. Ellie Owen is affordable—I have some pieces that start as low as $18.00 and up. I have a price range for everyone. I am a fairly new designer; I have been in business for about 2 years, so I don’t have high-end price ranges. One day, I would like to be there, in the ranks of Gucci. I definitely want Ellie Owen to maintain having an amazing quality and fit. When I design, I try to make something for everyone, and make real clothes for real people.

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Eboyne: Since you’ve embarked on an exciting career in fashion, what exciting moments stick out the most in your mind?

Leon: I did a fashion show in Atlanta, and Tupac’s sister was there. That memory sticks out in my mind ‘til this day—She absolutely loved my designs. It was a proud moment. It was one of my first big shows, and all of my friends came out to support and be apart of it. I know that it was only God who opened that door of opportunity. That show put me on a whole new level of faith, and from that point on, I was convinced that I was headed in the

right direction. The show was crazy—it was full of lots of metallic suits and mini dresses. My old spiritual-hymn CD, mixed with space age music, was blasting through the airwaves as the models cascaded on the runway. It was a chilling, exciting, and magical moment. Eboyne: Sounds enthralling, wish I was there! (Laughs) Leon: You already know that I will definitely let you know about any up-coming shows. Eboyne: (Laughs) I’m there! Leon: I gotchu. (Laughs) Eboyne: In any industry, there are the highs

reinforcement—whether through scholarships, mentoring, and outreach programs. Eboyne: I admire that, Leon. You are so multitalented—not only are you a fashion designer; you are also a gifted poet. Please tell me about this new book you just penned, entitled “The Lessons.” Leon: “The Lessons” is a book of inspirational poetry. The book is a reflection of God’s love, and Him being the source of my inspiration. The book is available in both download and print versions at www.lulu.com. Eboyne: Fabulous! What new collections do you have in the works?

t celebrated African American designer.” Leon: Since I have embarked on this new journey, I have seen some friends come and some friends go. It’s sad to say, but in this industry, you encounter many attitudes. Many people think that this industry makes the world go ‘round, when in actually, it does, but it doesn’t. It should never alter the way you treat someone. As for the perks, for me, I’d say, having the opportunity to share my art with the world, and get my collection out there. I grew up in a little country town, and soon I will be headed to the city. I know what I want, and I am ready to live out my dreams. Eboyne: Are there any types of charity organizations you’d like to get involved in? Leon: It touches my heart to make sure that children are safe. I would definitely like to help children who do not excel well in school, and provide opportunities and outreach for them to succeed. When I went to Florida A&M University, I was the only black student in this premier leadership program. One of my teachers was surprised I got in, and I was like, ‘yeah, I got it!’ (Laughs) So I know what it’s like to have people doubt your abilities. For the students out there who struggle, I want to be in able to provide them with positive

Leon: I have this futuristic collection I am working on called “Electric Church.” I love church, and I love God, so this collection will be a play on that. I envision the models walking down the runway to Jimi Hendrix and shouting music! (Laughs) This collection is one of those “I am here Collections.” When people see it, they will feel something different. Eboyne: I love your devotion and love for God. In this industry that’s rare. Where can people find Ellie Owen? Leon: Right now, the collections are made-toorder on my website—www.ellie-owen.com. There will be in retails in the near future. Eboyne: What do you envision for your brainchild, Ellie Owen? Leon: I want to be the next Tracy Reese! (Laughs) I want to be the next celebrated African American designer. I want my clothes to be comparable to Gucci. Eventually, I would like to merge into men’s and children’s ware, sunglasses, fragrance, handbags, and shoes. . . and open up flag ships all around the world. And I know with God at the helm, all things are possible! For More on Ellie Owen & “The Lessons” Visit: www.ellie-owen.com & www.lulu.com.

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and then there are the lows. What are the disadvantages and perks of being an emerging fashion designer?

fashion focus

words by: Areti Sakellaris While many designers choose to

weather the recession’s storm by presenting expected albeit beautifully tailored clothing, Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons took a “shock and awe” approach. Founded in 1973, Comme des Garçons is not the typical fashion house and with the Japanese designer at the helm, Comme des Garçons is a masterful collection with a real pedigree and sense of higher purpose.

Toes were drawn in chalk on the models’ shoes. Kawakubo molded plaids and blankets over some models and it seemed like she then ripped those plaids and tucked them under cropped trench coats from behind, it was a one-piece. Light beige tulle dresses with dainty details like ruffles and petals acted as a counterpoint to the long and loose outerwear pieces. Industrial and complicated, Kawakubo’s clothing goes beyond clothing and

designers who used tulle for petticoats and to add body, Kawakubo wrapped swaths of the light material around legs as if leggings, to cover faces, and on the outside to cocoon dresses. Long known for overturning the myth that fine clothing must be made of rich materials like silks and brocades, she uses polyester and acrylic along with canvas to fashion utilitarian clothing suited for an active lifestyle.

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Kawakubo goes where other designers fear to tread, and enraptures the fashion world with her unusual designs and one-of-a-kind aesthetic.

Notorious for pushing the envelope and urging a deeper relationship with fashion, Kawakubo’s triangular skirts, veiled faces, pink hair and asymmetrical silhouettes were anything but straightforward. Trompe l’oeil poncho jackets in olive army fatigues had painted-on pockets, a real pocket, and masked sleeves. One coat featured an enormous painted-on animal, but you’d never guess it from the delicate folds and darts on the front. Yet another coat looked like two different coats converged into one: olive fabric at the front with stone fabric in the back, both sleeves different lengths, and the buttons crossing the body at a 45 degree angle.

challenges the relationship between the body and how to dress it. Surprisingly, Kawakubo is not a trained fashion designer; her educational background is in the arts and literature, and she approaches designing with a highly intellectual mind. Perhaps this is a collection about survival and plays with our anxieties as humans and the uncertainties of the times. There are more emotions to portray and evoke in fashion besides shiny optimism and metallic jersey or sequin dresses; leave that to the others. Kawakubo stroked darker emotions. The collection did not stray into aggressive territory but, rather, her combination of materials made the models seem a little fragile. Unlike most

Kawakubo hit upon the modernist and plaid trends big for fall. The dramatic shapes and angular coats are part of the modernist look, and the colors she used will be seen across the board of retailers, especially the olive green. The beige is a carry-over from this spring’s nude trend. Unassuming like her reclusive persona, Comme des Garçons clothing is relevant today and will be years down the line and she inspired some of the more visionary designers, including Junya Watanabe. Kawakubo goes where other designers fear to tread, and enraptures the fashion world with her unusual designs and one-of-akind aesthetic.

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photo: Shamayim Photography

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photos: Jeffrey Holmes

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Sweet Dreams are made of Fine Italian Silk

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or many designers, the runway is a sort of dream land where anything is possible. Free to create their wildest fashion fantasies, billowing dresses, outrageous headpieces and improbable shoes are commonplace. High fashion clothing, often defying convention and seemingly gravity, is celebrated on the runway. On the streets, however, the garments can lose their fairy dust to become impractical items. Case in point-- the pajama-inspired clothing designed by dream-weavers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. While the casual ensembles may have wowed audience members at their Spring ’09 runway show last September, the murky translation to reality has fashionistas realizing some things are better left in their dreams. With their palazzo trousers and tops reminiscent of a man’s smoker jacket in a masculine, polka dotted silk, Dolce & Gabbana have taken the concept of “relaxed luxury” literally. The pajama-styled garments, meant to be worn on the streets rather than between the sheets, rendered their Spring ’09 collection casual, yet chic. Paired with opulent jewelry and higher-than-high heels, a far cry from fuzzy slippers, the look is anything but sleepy. The ensembles made for a dramatic runway show. Applauding from their seats in the front row were Marc Anthony and Jennifer Lopez. Other fans included Matthew McConaughey and Irish pop star Roisin Murphy. Loving the idea of pajamas as daywear, Jessica Alba wore a pair to the premiere of “My Bloody Valentine” in Los Angeles. It was there, in public, in daylight, that the look, once so clever and playful, became a nightmare. The pajamas, when taken off the runway and worn on the red carpet, were simply pajamas. Expertly made pajamas, mind you, but pajamas nonetheless. Alba, though channeling the soft-lens glamour of the 1940s with red lipstick and luscious waves, could have just as easily been enjoying a movie night snuggled up on her couch. The trick to making runway looks, especially couture, work in everyday life is moderation. Wearing both the top and bottom as Alba had done appears costume-y; matching silk pajamas worn during the day are perhaps only appropriate on Hugh Hefner. Instead of wearing the entire look at once, incorporate one pajama-inspired element. Pair the wide-legged trousers with a fitted blouse to balance the masculinity of the pants. If nothing else, why take away the opportunity to seductively “slip into something a little more comfortable” later on?

Photography - Joao Carlos http://www.milkmanstudio.com Photo Assistant CJ

old howe

Models @ the agency - AZ Andreia Brendan Be Ciara

Hair Styling - Carly Erin Oneil http://www.carlyoneil.com/

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Him- Emporio Armani Undies Shorts - Ralph Laurent Shoes - Shimano Vintage 3D glasses necklace - silpada

Sun hates . Donna Karen Bathing Suits - Keva Shoes Steve Madden luxe

Bathing Suit - Keva Jewels - H&M Glasses - Cinzia Shoes - Guess Bathing Suit - Black Jewels Shoes Black Pattered Steve Madden Him - Calvin Klein Briefs Speedo swim Cap & Swim Gloves Metro Park Glasses

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Bathing Suit - Grey w/ pink DKNY Cinza Glasses Shoes - Paris Hilton Pink Him - Speedo Swim Cap & Gloves Glasses Guess Undies

sepada necklace Shoes - Gucci

Bathing Suit - Body Glove coral Jewelry vintage

Accessories H&M Shoes - Salvatore Feragamo

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Red Suit - Keva Shoes - nine west glasses - Cinza Visor - Nike

Bathing Suit - Keva Shoes- Jessica Simpson Glases - Cinza Briefs - Emporio Armani Vintage Goggles

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shoes Jessica Simpson

Yellow Suit - H & M Speedo swim caps Emporio Armani - trunks Shoes - Jessica simpson

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a Global Beaute concept Photographer: Stephanie Matthews (www.StephanieMatthewsPhotography.dphoto.com) Stylist: Michelle Washington Hair: Cassi Young-Paxton

Make up: Erica Stewart Model: Kholoud Errijaji Resort wear: KEVA by Keva J Shoes: Omelle Special thanks to The Columbus, Renaissance Hotel

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Far From The Hipster Crowd... words by: Vanessa Willoughby

How I Learned That I Was Born

n In The Wrong Decade

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erhaps I’m a traitor to my generation, but I’m just going to come clean. It appears, among other distinguishable vices, that I’m a sucker for social ostracization. Why? Because unlike the typical female, I’m fed up with the current hipster fad that’s been infecting the twenty-something, liberal arts educated masses. It seems that just about anyone under thirty is adopting this look. New York, Boston, LA- they’re multiplying like fleas. When they strike, they strike en masse. Summer in the city encourages hipsters to awaken in all their glory. Like peacocks, they crowd the cracked sidewalks, hungry for the next material possession that will further validate their authenticity. Granted, I understand that every decade is going to have its cultural trends. In the 20’s, it was all about gin joints and flappers and Gatsby-esque frivolity. The 50’s witnessed the blossoming of culture clashes, of the poodle-skirted bobby-soxers and the drug-fueled beat poets. Day glow, hammer pants, and crimped hair invaded the 80’s and Madonna skillfully deconstructed and challenged modern femininity through her music and fashion. However, I also understand that anyone who has the audacity to call themselves a “hipster” probably doesn’t realize that it’s also a synonym for mass consumer. Alas, it seems that if you’re young, have an aversion to practical careers that involve math or science, and were picked on for liking Nirvana in high school before Nevermind went platinum, you’re required to follow some kind of hipster handbook. Fixed-gear bike? Check. Chic glasses that border on the pretentious? Check. Skinny jeans? An undeniable necessity. Bonus points if you’re a male and the denim cuts off circulation to your testicles. According to Webster’s Dictionary, a hipster is: “a person who is unusually aware of and interested in new and unconventional patterns (as in jazz or fashion).” The ever delightful Urban Dictionary provides a much more detailed definition, with highlights that include: “Has a hairstyle that can only be described as “complicated.” (Most likely achieved by a minimum of one week not washing it.) Probably tattooed. Reads Black Book, Nylon, and the Styles section of the New York Times. Drinks Pabst Blue Ribbon. Often….Probably living off parents money and spends a great deal of it to look like they don’t have any.” Although Urban Dictionary is hardly a reputable or official source of information, I’d have to say that Webster’s definition fails to capture the specifics of the hipster clan. By all means, according to good old Webster, I could qualify as a hipster! Despite my affinity for skinny jeans and indie-rock, there’s one distinct thing that separates me from the American Apparel-worshiping, over-stimulated crowd. My sense of style comes with a sense of humor. I’ve always been spellbound by the way a couple of yards of fabric can transform into living art, the way an outfit can be a portrait of the past, the present,

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and the future. But I know that the key thing to remember is that simply buying a new outfit isn’t the chance for social reincarnation. In other words, just because I buy a pair of steel-toed Doc Martens doesn’t mean I should be kicking ass and taking names. Nor do I think that I’m the pinnacle of fashion brilliance. At this point in time, putting on a pair of Docs is not some big statement of ingenuity. Consequently, this is why I have such a bone to pick with the whole hipster movement. The passion for true originality has been replaced by the narcissistic desire to rebel for the sake of rebelling, to reject the “conventional” for the prescribed alternative. But the minute a subculture is pushed out of the underground and into the spotlight doesn’t make it so unconventional anymore, right? During my freshman year of college, I had a huge crush on a hipster. Hipster Boy was tall with dirty blond hair and lips that loved to smirk. A soft beer-belly hung above the waist of his Levis and all I wanted was to bask in his presence and listen to his watery theories on Marx. However, due to my naturally introverted nature, we’d barely exchanged two words. We shared a few classes together but I doubt he even know my last name. Terrified of rejection, I kept my mouth shut and envisioned all sorts of conversational scenarios in my mind, mainly ones where I suddenly sprouted off some witty remark like a wise-cracking Rosalind Russell or Bette Davis. Of course, Hipster Boy would become enchanted, drawn towards me like a frenzied shopper at a Black Friday sale. I don’t know what caused the change. It was a gradual process. I went from praying he’d be the Jordan Catalano to my Angela Chase, to being repulsed by the sagging of his fleshy pouch beneath the thin cotton of his V-neck. My infatuation faded until one day, sitting in my fiction writing workshop, I saw him as a walking punch line. He wanted to be a writer yet it seemed the only author he’d ever read was Chuck Palahniuk. He claimed to love music, but his CD collection started and ended with Bob Dylan. Nothing about him was as unique as he believed; his entire image was meticulously crafted, right down to the knee-hole in the right leg of his jeans. Hipster Boy tried to

habitat. This can range anywhere from a private, liberal arts college, to a hole in the wall coffee shop, a record shop (emphasis on record shop, rather than chain like Best Buy), to a thrift store or the Salvation Army. The universal motto behind hipster ideology is simple: “The homelier, the better.” I suppose the one decade that mirrors the hipster phenomenon is possibly the 90’s. Flannel has certainly made a comeback, along with classic Chuck Taylors, anemic-looking physiques, and DIY haircuts.

On the contrary, there’s just something too rehearsed, too planned out about today’s hipster fashion that clashes with the raw, rough, and electric energy of grunge. Both hipster culture and fashion attempts to capture the ferocious rebellion of the punk movement, the intellectual and aesthetic progressiveness of the 50’s and 60’s, and the technological esprit of the 90’s and early 2000’s. But instead of a mosaic, we’re left with the table scraps of bygone eras. Instead of creating an entirely new niche, the culture and more importantly, the fashion of the hipster, is the regurgitation of all things past. Fashion and style are often used as interchangeable words, but if placed in opposing context, they correlate two entirely different things. Fashion is what someone can see in the tents at Bryant Park or in the editorial spread of Iconography, Vogue, Vanity Fair or

“Toyota prius? Check”

give off the vibe that he was extremely well-rounded, but all of his opinions were stolen from someone else, from the very same and most predictable icons, figures that deeply appealed to the youth of the suburbs, the middle-class daydreamers. The saddest part of it all was that he was too blind to see it. To someone from my parent’s generation, they lack the natural ability to pick out such characters. The easiest way to pick out a hipster is to visit their natural

Harper’s Bazar. But style? No doubt about it, style is a much closer reflection of an individual’s personality than fashion. Serving as a blanket term, fashion is in reference to the collective, to the masses. Style is what’s thriving on the streets, the product of someone infatuated with aesthetics and the possibility of slipping on a different skin like a costume. Yet, with the hordes of young people consuming such a trend, the fashion of said subculture becomes more like a standardized uniform that any drone

can obtain, as long as the person’s in a twenty-mile radius of an American Apparel or an Urban Outfitters. Instead of harboring a sense of style that is the organic culmination of personal perspective, it transforms into the allegiance to a doctrine, one that’s easily mockable because it’s so predictable. Is the current generation that creatively exhausted? When did fashion require the accessory of pretentiousness? Sadly, this trait is exemplified in the world of hipsters, prominent more so in one gender than the other. Let’s look a bit closer at the male hipster, shall we? As the ever-helpful Urban Dictionary previously stated, common characteristics link all hipsters, just like the average Star Trek or Star Wars fan. Unfortunately,

For those who’ve recently discovered The Sex Pistols via Sid and Nancy, staring Gary Oldman and Chole Webb, sometimes the sneakers are substituted for Docs and the skin-sucking skinny jeans are completed with studded belts. But the hipster male will never cross into the punk territory, as it’s too emotionally animalistic and absent of acoustic guitars. Like the world of high fashion and couture, the typical male hipster is lanky, maintaining a frame that is more scarecrow than Adonis. After all, if you’re a hipster, when would you have time to sit down and eat when you need all the time you can get to write the next American novel/song/paint the mural that will change the face of the art world/save the world/attend a rally/smoke a blunt and watch all the David Lynch films you can get your hands on?

unlike your everyday Trekkie, the hipster has decided to use his fanaticism for evil, rather than good. Speaking strictly in cookie-cutter stereotypes, the hipster male is a direct retaliation against the revved-up masculinity of “the jock,” or even the timeless mystique of the “bad boy.” The male hipster shuns the requirements of the jock and the borrowed electricity of the bad boy has gone stale. Rather, the male hipster makes it a point to discuss highbrow philosophy without ever naming specific theories. The fetish of technology is akin to orgasmic proportions and the big-faced Rolex is to the 80’s Wall Street Shark as the slick iPhone is to the hipster. He prides himself on holding down a six-pack of Pabts Blue Ribbon. His prized sets of wheels are either a fixed-gear bike or a battered skateboard. If he drives, it’s a Honda or a VW. If he feels like reminding the rest of society of his devotion to environmentalism, he’ll buy a Prius. He likes Clove cigarettes and Chuck Taylors or

the occasional pair of Vans. The local Goodwill is a hipster’s goldmine, cluttered with “ironic” T-shirts and jerseys boasting the name of little league teams. He may not need glasses, but he sure as hell will buy a horn-rimmed, old-fashioned pair, a la Rivers Cuomo.

Oh, hipster boys. You really know how to turn a girl on, what with your post-modernism and your $10 haircut and your determination to become the later-day Holden Caulfield. Never mind the fact that you are all cloning yourselves, molding yourselves from a copy of a copy of a copy. You really know how to get my blood going with your too small, too tight, and too bright wardrobe. Of course I love coffee and yes, I would love to go backpacking through Europe with you and oh my God, do we have the same mind? Because I’ve always wanted to truly “find myself” in the streets of Paris, wrapped in the arms of someone who learned about love through all their favorite songs. I suppose, like all trends, the hipster fad might die. People of my generation will look back at photos from their college-days and either laugh or blush with embarrassment. It will be regarded as just a “sign of the times,” as nothing more than the collective rally cry of the youth, of a time when the fear of being painfully ordinary turned the fearful into sheep. There’s something in that that mimics a heavy case of déjà vu, no? For now, I will retain my position of the outsider, the misplaced. I’m sick of the same old, same old, those boys who think they’re men because they drink red wine and have Kind of Blue or Blue Train on vinyl. Girls, you can keep them. I’ve seen the act just one too many times: what started off as a dramatic monologue only ended with a lackluster stand-up routine. But if you happen to know any men that look like Cary Grant or Humphrey Bogart, by all means, send `em my way.

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“Fixed-gear bike? Check”

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words by Lorraine Duffy Merkl

“If I was a girl, I'd wear a lot of high heels.” -- Isaac Mizrahi

In fact, the higher the heel, the slimmer you look in general. By forcing your back to arch, thrusting your bust forward and buttocks back, the miracle workers accentuate the female form. They also make the arches of the feet appear higher while making the calves appear more defined. Famed shoe designer Jimmy Choo says four-inch heels are a must, but encourages women to, “Go up to five inches!” Not ready to tame a tall stiletto? Stable platforms and modest peep toes can reap similar rewards, but make sure the toe is pointed as round toes will shorten your legs. Beware of ankle straps as they can break your attempt at a long look. Depending on the occasion and the season, hose can also add to your illusion of shapeliness, however Manolo Blahnik insists wearing shoes barefoot is much more attractive. “One of the sexiest things I can think of is female feet clad in luxurious leather shoes!” Note to the novice-- You really have to educate yourself how to walk all over again. Step with your heel down first, then let the sole follow quickly and smoothly. Make sure to walk with your toes pointing straight ahead, keeping your legs straight, close and parallel. Then take smooth, even steps; also consider shortening your stride. Swing your arms for balance. Make sure to avoid walking on unsteady surfaces such as ice, slush, mud, grass, sand, gravel and grated surfaces, on which you can slip or sink. When in doubt, take off your heels and carry them! Made famous for their slenderizing effect, the fashion staple has historic roots. Catherine de Medici is credited with wearing the first true pair of high heels. In 1533, as the diminutive wife of the Duke of Orleans, the future Queen of France commissioned a cobbler to design shoes, both for fashion, and to increase her stature. The shoes quickly caught on with the fashionconscious men and women of the French court, and spread to pockets of nobility in other countries. The term “well-heeled” became synonymous with opulent wealth.

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stems

quats, thrusts and jogging-- all of these can have a transform your legs in the long run. But for immediate gratification, there’s nothing like a show-stopping pair of stilettos, which tend to give the illusion of longer, slender legs. Not for the faint of heart—‘high’ heels are those over 3.5 inches.

Edge Edge of The The Night Night deisigner: ying edge clothing models: courtney lynn cannan naomi watson

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In the the

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issue

the naked celebrate

pink

awareness

breast cancer

1yr anniversary

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fall winter