Traveler magazine 2012-13 winter issue

the snow flakes fall and melt in the hot water, we imagined slipping back in time 300 years.

Tazawa-ko Cats Consulting weather reports in our lodge at night, we realized this stubborn storm had no plans of leaving the area. Although sunshine was not in the cards, we decided to explore further into the backcountry with a cat tour to the 8th Station of Mt. Komagatake. Tazawa-ko offers a simple alternative to lift-serviced slopes with a one-way cat ride taking you up a long, winding road higher on the mountain.

The cat tour departs from a now defunct ski hill about five kms. up the road.

In summer, the area is teaming with life, a high alpine wonderland of flower and fauna, but when the cat drove away and left us next to the simple

mountain hut, there were no other signs of life as far as we could see. Not that we could see very far; the visibility was down to 20 to 30 meters, and the wind was blowing hard.

Tazawa-ko's cat service does not come with any guiding and, although the terrain is not overly extreme, the conditions can be. I would recommend a high level of mountain navigation experience for those interested.

In spring, we’d take a short hike to the peak followed by a long run all the way back to the base of the ski area. This wasn’t an option on this day, so we stuck close to the cat road, looking for short lines and sections to make some turns. The snow was deep and we had a blast the whole way down. It’s a cheap, fun and little-known option for exploring the backcountry.

After five days of skiing, soaking and….surveying it was time for us to grudgingly move on. Such is the life for the vagabond winter bum. Rumors of deep powder in other places beckoned and new horizons to look upon — but not before one more run.

We snapped a few group shots at the top of the resort where we spotted three snowboarders who looked to be at least in their 60s. We chatted for a moment with the friendly couple and their friend — die-hard locals who started snowboarding about 10 years ago. They invited us to come back again soon and then, with a slash and a spray, they disappeared into the trees — and why not — there were no ropes stopping them. We enjoyed a nice 3K cruiser on the way back to base ourselves.

Thank you, Tazawa-ko; we will be back. ✤

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This isolation cultivated a unique culture for the people here. There was a distinctive Snow Country style of life, with clothing, architecture, foods, crafts and a spirit shaped by these harsh winters, but also by the equally pleasant summers.

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ixty years later, entering Snow Country elicits the same emotion. The bullet train (or car if you are on the expressway) travels through the tunnel much faster than in 1948 — but the sensation that you are suddenly stepping into another world as you emerge from the tunnel into Snow Country remains the same.

Sitting at home or in your office on a clear winter day in Tokyo, you might wonder if there will even be enough snow to make a snowball, much less go skiing or snowboarding. The Kanto Plain region to the south is often dry with blue skies overhead in winter. Ahead, though, the dark mountain ranges begin to rise higher and higher. An hour after stepping on the Shinkansen in Tokyo, you enter the 11-kilometer tunnel that pierces the towering wall of mountains.

Once on the other side everything has changed, a white world materializes in front of you transformed by snow.

The snowfall here is among the heaviest in the world. Winds flowing across the Sea of Japan to the north and west pick up vast amounts of moisture. As the winds come onto land, they are thrown high by the front-range mountains. They cool, then drop all that moisture as meters and meters of snow.

Part of the magic Kawabata conveys to readers, which previous generations, reading earlier writings also discovered — was that those snowfalls literally locked some areas away from the rest of Japan. Before the invention of paved roads, plows and trains, it was almost impossible to get to these places in winter months. Even as recently as 2006, parts of the Sakae and Tsunan area were literally snowed in for days without any access to the outside world, until troops from Japan’s Self Defense Force came to dig them out.

This isolation cultivated a unique culture for the people here. There was a distinctive Snow Country style of life, with clothing, architecture, foods, crafts and a spirit shaped by these harsh winters, but also by the equally pleasant summers. All that snow meant an abundance of fresh water, and the region was — and still is — famous for its delicious rice, sake

THE SNOW COUNTRY REGION Meguro Residence Echigo-kawaguchi Koide

Tokamachi

Echigo Yukikura-kan

UONUMA

Urasa

MATSUNOYAMA TOKAMACHI ONSEN Muikamachi Morinomiyahara

Tsunan GALA TSUNAN Yuzawa

ECHIGO-YUZAWA ONSEN Yuzawa Museum of

MINAMI UONUMA Echigo-Yuzawa Oze National Park

MINAKAMI History and Folklore and hot springs.

Ashiyu Modern transportation SAKAE YUZAWA has made it easier for Minakami KANETSU travelers from around the EXPRESS WAY JR LINE globe to visit the Snow JR JOETSU SHINKANSEN LINE Country; and they can still HOKUETSU EXPRESS HOKUHOKU LINE experience the pace of life and all that is on offer. Yet the irony is not lost that the through Yuzawa, Tsunan, Minami-Uonuma, frenetic pace at which people live in the city Tokamachi and Uonuma. All easily accessible has drawn them back to the analog lifestyle. today, even in the snowiest months.

Now, more than ever, people need to escape What they all share, apart from deep to these places that were once inescapable. snow, are the mountains. Rows and rows of Visitors, however, will not be short of things mountain ranges, with the cities, rivers, train to immerse themselves in. Snow Country lines and roads running along the valleys. boasts one of the largest concentrations of ski areas in the country. Yuzawa alone THE SNOW RESORTS has more than 20 ski resorts. Relaxing Snow is what made Snow Country and aesthetically beautiful onsen — hot famous: even earlier than Snow Country, an springs — are located throughout the 1837 book called Hokuetsu Seppu, “Snow region. There are festivals throughout the Stories of North Etsu,” became a best-seller season that tell the tales of people living in Japan for its descriptions of life in the surrounded by walls of snow, and delicious region, isolated from the rest of the country foods that draw on the nearby Sea of Japan. because of the deep snow. Later on, that There’s something for everyone — even snow became the basis for the development those who prefer to observe rather than dive of hot spring and ski resorts throughout the into — the snow of Snow Country. region — close to Tokyo, but a world apart.

Much of Kawabata’s novel was written Yuzawa gets a special nod, as it is without in Takahan, the famous Yuzawa ryokan a doubt the biggest resort area in the Snow where he stayed. His room, Country Region. It became incredibly popular Kasumi-no-ma, still contains doing the ski boom years of the 1980s, which related documents (and can coincided with the bubble years of the be visited from 9 a.m. to 5 Japanese economy. It was often impossible pm.; admission ¥500, or to drive or even park in the immediate free if you are staying at the area — so people would leave their cars in ryokan). nearby towns and take the train to Yuzawa.

As a result, most people Today, the slopes are far less frantic, and think of Yuzawa as the it's common to ski straight onto the lifts. heart of Snow Country, but Another legacy of the boom years, though, in fact the region stretches are the ubiquitous resort apartments near from Minakami in Gunma the slopes in the area, many now attractive in the south, west to Sakae investments for urban dwellers looking for in Nagano, and to the north their own place in Snow Country.

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When the snow is really falling, most areas become powder fields as groomed runs slowly get covered with deep soft snow.

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Naeba is the most famous of the Yuzawaarea resorts. It was the place to go in the ski boom years of the '80s and early '90s, with the 1,242-room Naeba Prince Hotel stretching across the base — a huge facility providing ski-in, ski-out access and a wide choice of après-ski fun. Today it is connected to the Kagura, Tashiro and Mitsumata ski areas by the “Dragondola,” one of the world’s longest gondolas, forming one huge ski area called Mt. Naeba with seemingly endless terrain to explore (even on a multi-day trip).

With so many choices, how do you decide where to go? Start with what you are interested in.

Easy access: There is nowhere in the world where public transport and skiing meet as smoothly as at GALA Yuzawa. You can get off the Joetsu Shinkansen at GALA Yuzawa Station and board the gondola for the top — without ever leaving the station building. By car, Norn Minakami is just off the Kanetsu Expressway, with some of the other Yuzawa and Minami Uonuma resorts likewise just a short distance from the highway.

Families/small children: Many of the larger areas have put extra effort into enhanced facilities and programs for families and children — Naeba is a good example of a resort that has moved from a focus on young adults/couples to embrace families.

Several small areas (some with just a single lift) are perfect for families with gentle slopes and ski schools and other services available.

Resorts geared for kids and newbies include Ludens Resort, Yuzawa Nakazato Ski Resort, Ipponsugi (Yuzawa), Sakae Club Ski Resort, Mountain Park Tsunan and New Greenpia Tsunan.

Powder: When the snow is really falling,

most areas become powder fields as groomed runs slowly get covered with deep soft snow. Particularly famous for holding on to powder stashes are Kagura and Tanigawadake Tenjindaira, considered one of Japan’s big three heavy-snowfall resorts (average February snow depth: 397 cms.).

Park: Not just for boarders any more, parks lure people who like jumping off, onto and sliding across some manmade terrain and objects.

Ishiuchi Maruyama has half pipes, jumps, rails and a kids' park, while the big resorts of Naeba and Joetsu Kokusai have also put in some impressive jumps and terrain to play on, including some large-scale kickers at the latter.

Moguls: Many of the areas have steep and ungroomed sections that breed bumps.

Celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, Naeba will host an FIS World Cup moguls event Feb. 18-19, with an after party to follow in the village.

Skiers only: NASPA New Otani, one of the last resorts in Japan that does not allow boarders.

Spring skiing: Okutadami Maruyama has one of the most interesting seasons. The resort above Lake Okutadami opens in December, then yields to the heavy snow and closes from early January to midMarch — but then reopens and operates until the late spring. Tanigawadake Tenjindaira also remains open until late May, due to the heavy snowfall.

Backcountry: Unlike some areas, backcountry access is actually permitted at Kagura; Tanigawa Tenjindaira has a loyal following, although the official policy is less clear and having a guide is recommended.

Avalanche conditions can be severe at both, and you will be responsible for your own safety once outside the resort

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area, and should have good backcountry skills and equipment.

Heli-skiing: Only one place in the region, and only for a limited time each spring; from Kagura to Kirinoto Peak.

Aprés Ski: With 22 restaurants in the hotel at its base alone, Naeba wins the party award — you never have to leave the building, but it’s worth getting out and having a look around town.

OFF THE SLOPES Not everyone skis, but there is plenty of fun to be had off the slopes as well.

Snowshoeing has become increasingly popular in Japan, and Snow Country is a great place to do it. The thick, almost impassible forests of summer fill in with snow; you can wander through the woods, enjoying the calls of the many native birds and seeing the footprints left by rabbits, foxes, weasels and tanuki or raccoon dogs.

Many people also snowshoe the same high lines that backcountry skiers and boarders access at Kagura (Yuzawa), Tanigawa Tenjindaira (Minakami) and other locations — and there’s no view as magnificent as that you earn by walking high up in these mountains. Beginners beware;

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Whatever the water, though, nothing feels as soothing and relaxing at the end of a day as soaking in an onsen — and there will always be an onsen somewhere near lodgings throughout Snow Country.

you need experience, training and equipment to head into potentially dangerous terrain.

For all levels, snowshoe and other gear rentals and guiding are available at several locations in the area, particularly Minakami and Yuzawa.

Snowmobiling, whether riding behind the driver or being pulled on an inflatable banana boat, is another no-skills-needed option for some thrilling fun on the snow. Yuzawa Nakazato (Yuzawa) provides snowmobile rides, which will also be a feature of the Tsunan Snow Festival (Tsunan). Minakami Kogen Resort (Minakami) has adult and kids snowmobiles available for self-driving, complete with an instructor’s training and supervision.

Minakami Kogen also has groomed courses and equipment available for crosscountry skiing; less formal equipment for hiking out into the woods is available in many of the areas, through local tourist offices to hotels and pensions.

IT’S IN THE WATER The snow that makes all the winter fun possible also creates an excellent supply of fresh water, and the region is perhaps most famous locally for the excellent rice it produces — and that means good saké.

Add in the proximity of the Sea of Japan, and you have a fantastic selection of dishes featuring the very best of the seasons–fresh fish, shellfish (including the delicious , plump little oysters from Sado Island) and crabs, pickled and preserved vegetables, soba noodles and more.

Snow Country has even created a selection of fine restaurants and inns known as Yukiguni A-Kyu Gurume (Class A Snow Country Gourmet destinations).

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Many of the saké breweries of the region are open for tours and/or tastings — the rice equivalent of wine tours in California. Saké brewing not only requires the superior rice and water the snow provides, but also one of the most difficult and intriguing fermentation processes. It’s sometimes called “rice wine,” but is also the brewing is perhaps more like beer, with the added interest of double parallel fermentation.

A mold is added to break down the starches in rice to sugars, while yeast is simultaneously breaking down the sugar into alcohol and CO2. Traditionally, saké was brewed in the winter months, to take advantage, not only of the cooler temperatures and therefore slower fermentation, but also of a rural workforce without much to do when the fields are buried under meters of snow.

Whether you're interested in the process or just the consumption, a visit to a brewery is a delicious way to experience some of Japan’s best saké. Local breweries include Hakkaisan (Uonuma), one of the more widely distributed saké from the region (www.hakkaisan. com), Hakuro Brewery ( T o k a m a c h i ) , which has tours (http://hakuroshuzo. np.to) as does the Shirataki Brewery (Yuzawa), which holds tasting tours (http:// jozen.sakura.ne.jp/english/ index.html). Other interesting saké-related attractions include Yukikurakan (Yuzawa), a saké warehouse that takes advantage of the heavy snowfall. Snow is covered with a special sheet, then used to store and naturally chill saké throughout the year. Free guided tours and follow-up saké tasting are available (www.yukikura.com).

And even if you’re having too much fun on your trip to do a proper saké tasting, you can always stop by Ponshukan (Yuzawa), located inside Echigo Yuzawa Station; while

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you wait for your train. You know what’s in store when you see the two salary man statues — one lying on his back on the floor, the other leaning against a display rack. Take ¥500 and purchase five medallions — then choose from the 95 automatic dispensers ready with samples of saké from all over Niigata Prefecture. Ponshukan also includes a restaurant area, souvenir shops and even an onsen (www.ponshukan.com).

The ideal combination for snow (and saké, too?) is a hot spring. Luckily Snow Country is blessed with plenty of onsen (natural hot springs). Choose the kind of soak you want— clear or cloudy, great big multi-pool resorts or traditional, rock-lined outdoor baths.

Japanese bathers are particular about the mineral make-up of their onsen; different springs are said to produce a range of healing properties.

Yuzawa Onsen, more than 800 years old, is said to be good for “nerve pain, rheumatism, stomach disease, gout and chronic women’s diseases,” while Matsunoyama Onsen in Tokamachi, discovered about the same time, is good for hemorrhoids, gastrointestinal disease, cuts and burns. In fact, it’s listed as one of Japan’s top-three medicinal hot springs.

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One of the most striking destinations is Hoshi Onsen (Minakami), considered by some as the most beautiful onsen in Japan.

The large main building was built in the 1870s and there is a nice rotenburo (outside bath). It’s completely natural; the water flows directly up from the ground without being heated. Nearby Takaragawa Onsen offers a number of different baths — for men, women and mixed bathing — in a beautiful setting along the headwaters of the Tonegawa River.

At Kaikake Onsen (Yuzawa), the water is supposed to be good for eye ailments, which might help you enjoy the particularly beautiful view of snow falling in the outdoor bath. Visitors in Yuzawa can also enjoy the free “Kan-nakkuri” foot bath on the main street.

Whatever the water, though, nothing feels as soothing and relaxing at the end of a day as soaking in an onsen — and there will always be an onsen somewhere near lodgings throughout Snow Country.

There are many, many small festivals going on throughout the winter across Snow Country, as people illuminate ski fields, pathways and roads with candles, build Kamakura (traditional Japanese igloos), shoot off fireworks or gather around festive fires.

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FESTIVALS & EVENTS Snow Country festivals throughout the winter provide a wonderful introduction to Japanese culture, tradition, food and drink — and fun.

Not unexpectedly, many of the festivals center around snow. Tokamachi’s Snow Festival is perhaps the biggest of these, with snow sculptures and stages to rival Sapporo’s Snow Festival, Japan’s biggest, as well as live performances and a kimono

fashion show that is a reminder of one of the region’s traditional industries.

The snow theme extends to festivals that have little meaning besides having fun in the white stuff. Mukonage, “Son-inLaw Throwing,” qualifies. This admittedly eccentric festival features young men married during the past year thrown down from a temple into the snow drifts below.

This is followed by Suminuri, where people get their faces painted with an ink made from sacred ashes mixed with snow.

Both the Secchi Hanamizu Iwai and Urasa Bishamondo Naked Man Festival involve purification by being splashed by ice-cold water — for the sake of family happiness and given to newlywed men in the first, and before jostling for position with hundreds of other nearly-naked men inside a temple in the second.

But there are many, many small festivals going on throughout the winter across Snow Country, as people illuminate ski fields, pathways and roads with candles, build Kamakura (traditional Japanese igloos), shoot off fireworks or gather around festive fires.

GETTING THERE Most overseas visitors come from the Tokyo area—and it couldn’t be easier. By train or car, this is one of the most convenient ski destinations from the nation’s capital 200 km. to the south.

The Joetsu Shinkansen has multiple departures hourly from Tokyo Station.

After stopping in Jomo Kogen (get off here to access Minakami resorts) you’ll pull into Echigo-Yuzawa Station about 75 minutes later. GALA-Yuzawa Resort operates its own bullet train.

From Echigo Yuzawa, you can take one of the many shuttle buses to Yuzawa resorts or transfer to the Joetsu Line or Hokuhoku Line for other destinations in Snow Country. Take the Joetsu Line south to Iwappara Ski Resort or even all the way to Minakami. Northwards to Ishiuchi Ski Resort, Joetsu Kokusai Ski Resort and on to Muikamachi (Muikamachi Hakkaisan Ski Area) and onward.

The privately-owned Hokuhoku Line links Muikamachi to Joetsu City on the Japan Sea coast, and serves Muikamachi, Tokamachi and Matsudai (Matsuyama Onsen) on the way. If you’re lucky enough to be traveling from the opposite direction, from the Kansai area (Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe), this line provides a beautiful, pastoral ride through a much softer winter landscape than the trip from Tokyo. The Yumezora train on this line was the first “theater train” in Japan, with images projected onto the ceiling when the train passes through tunnels.

Tsunan and Sakae can be reached by another train transfer, this time at Tokamachi to the Iiyama Line, which extends to Nagano City.

If you choose to travel to Yuzawa or Minakami by car, you’ll use the Kanetsu Expressway from Tokyo; however be prepared for Sunday evening traffic jams back into Tokyo. ✤