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GOLF ATRAVEL Player’s Guide
Asia’s Emerald Isle
Home to just a handful of courses, Sri Lanka might lag behind some of the region’s most popular destinations in respect of playing opportunities. But with a tradition in the Royal and Ancient game virtually unmatched in this part of the world, golf is the perfect complement to a visit to this rejuvenated nation’s many off-course wonders, writes Alex Jenkins.
Tourists take an elephant ride in the shadow of the ancient Sigiriya rock fortress, one of Sri Lanka’s most famous cultural sites 54
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set on the island’s eastern coast – has its own share of sights. It is also the best place to go shopping. Try the bustling bazaar area at the Pettah, or one of the hundreds of shops selling clothes, handloom fabrics and gems. To unwind at the end of the day and enjoy a drink on the veranda at the Galle Face Hotel, a charming colonial-era hotel, and watch the sunset over the Indian Ocean. Colombo may be the capital, but Kandy – almost in the exact middle of the island – remains the Sinhalese cultural and spiritual centre. It is here where the famous Dalada Maligawa – or Temple of the Tooth – houses Sri Lanka’s most famous Buddhist relic, the sacred tooth of Buddha.
Golfing Sri Lanka
island offer a large number of activities. Diving, snorkelling, deep-sea fishing or just lazing on the sand is on the agenda for many. While there are resort hotels – and a growing number of very fine villas and boutiquestyle residences – at Bentota, Weligama and Unawatuna, much of the coast is still undeveloped – making it possible to leave the crowds and to have a beautiful stretch of sand all to yourself. If a beach holiday is not for you then Sri Lanka offers a variety of alternatives. Go on safari along the coast at Yala West National Park, home to elephants and leopards. Take in the historic sites at Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, and the spectacular rock fortress of Sigiriya. Too hot? Head for the central highlands and Nurawa Eliya where, at over 6,000 feet above sea level, the cool climate makes for a refreshing change from the rest of the country. Sights in the area include the beautiful Horton Plains, with some rigorous walks, and include the dramatic World’s End – a breathtaking drop of some 2,800 feet allowing truly magnificent views. The region is also where tea, Sri Lanka’s largest export, grows. Vast plantations take up entire hillsides and it is possible to stop at one of the factories and take a tour.
Golf, however, is not for what Sri Lanka is most famous. To many tourists, particularly those from Europe, Sri Lanka means the beach – and for good reason. Considered to be among the finest in the world, the beaches along the western, southern and, increasingly, western coasts of the
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Rest and Relaxation The awe-inspiring Adam’s Peak (above) in the island’s central highlands; the signature par-4 sixth at Victoria Golf & Country Resort (opposite) 56
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The respected British architect Donald Steel built Victoria at Digana, 15 miles east of Kandy, in 1999. Located on a former coconut plantation, the courses features fairly narrow fairways lined with giant palms. At over 1,500 feet above sea level, the course offers fantastic views of the Mahawelli River and the Victoria Reservoir. Measuring 6,945 yards from the back tees and playing to a par of 73, the course is quite a test with some severe undulations making accurate clubbing a must. Although only 14 years old, the course has settled in well – perhaps a little too well in places; the sheer growth of vegetation has found its way into many of the playing corridors and, as a result, this otherwise splendid course would benefit significantly from some thoughtful pruning. Signature hole status at Victoria has been given to the par-4 sixth. At 473 yards on the card the hole looks a beast, but fortunately the tee stands some 45 yards above the fairway and thereby reducing its playing yardage. The drive must finish short of a water ditch and then your approach must avoid a large Mara tree and a long bunker guarding the green. My personal favourite, though, is the 12th, a mid-length par-3 whose plateaulike green is beautifully framed by mountains, dense jungle and a sprawling Mara. Victoria, a fully fledged resort with a range of accommodations on offer, will play host to the 14th SriLankan Airlines Golf Classic, an amateur tournament open to golfers from around the region, from 23-27 October [see sidebar]. In the old days, your transport options for getting to this remote if spectacular club were limited to two rather unappealing choices: a six-hour ride on a cramped, non air-conditioned train or a minimum four-hour drive up a windy – and at times terrifying – mountain road by car. Now, thankfully, you can fly: the SriLankan Air Taxi service from Colombo to Victoria is incredibly scenic, and the landing – which takes place on the adjacent reservoir – is especially thrilling for those unaccustomed to seaplane travel. The flight itself only takes only 40 minutes, making it potentially possible to be standing on the first tee within an hour and a half of landing in the country. Par: 73 Yardage: 6,537 Greens Fee: US$52-62 Architect: Donald Steel Contact: golfsrilanka.com
Colombo is relatively ‘green’ for an Asian capital, with many parks and cricket grounds making up a significant area of the city. While it may not be everyone’s favourite stop in Sri Lanka, the capital – HKGOLFER.COM
Alex Jenkins
S
ituated off the southern tip of India, the tropical island of Sri Lanka has attracted travellers for centuries with its palm-fringed beaches, diverse landscapes and ancient monuments. Indeed, Marco Polo was sufficiently impressed to describe Ceylon, as it was then known, as ‘undoubtedly the finest island of its size in all the world’. On of the more advanced countries of South Asia, Sri Lanka suffered throughout the 1980s and 1990s due to a civil war that disrupted the economy and kept tourists away. Now, however, the tourists are back. Thanks to the military’s defeat of the Tamil Tigers in early 2009, travellers are once again enjoying Sri Lanka’s traditional attractions and spending time on the island’s golf courses. Sri Lanka’s golfing history may now be well known but it certainly interesting. The country’s amateur championship, first played in 1891, follows only that of Britain as the eldest national title in the world. Royal Colombo Golf Club, inaugurated in 1879, is among the 25 eldest clubs in the world.
The best time of the year to pay golf is from December to March when the weather is generally dry and the humidity is relatively low. From March onwards the temperature increases, although rarely past 35 degrees, and the monsoon season lasts from May to August. It is important to note that while there are caddies at all of Sri Lanka’s courses, there are no buggies, which means that walking is your only option. While getting around Sri Lanka quickly is difficult (although the island’s transport infrastructure has improved greatly in recent times), hiring a car and driver can help a lot. The general driving standards are low and the drives can be long. Despite this, playing golf in Sri Lanka comes highly recommended. With surely some of the best value golf to be had in Asia, the journey will be well worth it.
Victoria Golf & Country Resort
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Nurawa Eliya Golf Club
The British brought golf to Sri Lanka and their influence on Royal Colombo Golf Club is strikingly evident. The tree-lined fairways echo the fine heathland gems of the English Home Counties and the impressive clubhouse harks back to those colonial days. Not long at around 6,300 yards from the members’ tee, this par-71 layout features some well placed water hazards and bunkers. The sixth hole sees the Kelani Valley railway line bisecting the fairway at about the distance of a good drive. Local rules allow a free drop, but is comes as some surprise to see commuters on their way to work rushing past you at speed while you are lining up your approach. For many, the best hole on the course is the par-5 14th. A dog-leg left of around 480 yards, the second shot must be drawn over trees and a small pond to have any chance of reaching the putting surface. Miss the green and it is a certain bogey, hit it and an eagle opportunity awaits – this is the ultimate risk-reward golf hole. Because of its location in the heart of town, Royal Colombo is the busiest course on the island, but, even so, securing a tee time is never too much of an issue. Another boon: being a relatively flat course, one populated by members who like to get on with things, rounds seldom take longer than three and a half hours.
Further up into the central highlands lies Nurawa Eliya Golf Club. Situated in the centre of the former British hill station, the par-71, 6,100-yard course plays a bit shorter because of the altitude. Built in 1889, the club has definite old world charm with a typical colonial clubhouse and uniformed staff. The course itself is a delight, with fir-lined fairways and deep rough making accuracy from the tee all the more important. While at Royal Colombo and Victoria the caddies are very good, at Nurawa Eliya they are excellent: highly knowledgeable and quick to dispense helpful advice. It is possible to stay at the club, as there are a few rooms available to visitors. Overseas guests are welcome throughout the week, but it is best to avoid the town in April when finding a room can be difficult due to the Sinhalese and Tamil New Year.
Alex Jenkins
Par: 72 Yardage: 6,560 Greens Fee: US$65-82 Architect: Unknown Contact: rcgcsl.com 58
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Par: 71 Yardage: 6,075 Greens Fee: US$35-44 Architect: Unknown Contact: negc.lk
TRIP PLANNER
Soar With SriLankan Airlines
GETTING THERE
Regional amateur golfers looking for a challenge will have the opportunity to tee-off at the beautiful Victoria Golf Club near Kandy when SriLankan Airlines hold its 14th annual Golf Classic in October. This year’s tournament will take place from 23-27 October. Located in the Kandyan mountains, the Donald Steel-designed course is surrounded on three sides by picturesque Victoria Reservoir and set amidst the native forests of central Sri Lanka. SriLankan Airlines will be offering special concessionary airfares and tour packages to all participants – anyone with a valid handicap can apply – and accompanying persons, making entr y to the tournament an excellent way to combine golf with some of the island’s better-known historic and cultural sites. The competition will be contested in a 36-hole stableford format with a range of prizes on offer courtesy of SriLankan Airlines, which will be presented at the tournament closing gala dinner. For more information about the tournament visit srilankangolfclassic.com or call the carrier’s Hong Kong reservations office on (852) 2521 0708.
SriLankan Airlines (srilankanairlines. com) operate three flights per week from Hong Kong to Colombo’s Bandaranaike International Airport with a stop in Bangkok ( journey time: six hours, 30 minutes). SriLankan Airlines is scheduled to join the oneworld alliance of carriers by the end of 2013 when it is thought that the airline will commence a code-share arrangement with Cathay Pacific.
WHEN TO GO Climatically, the driest and best season is from December to March on the west and south coasts and in the hill country. This period is also when most foreign tourists come – many of them escaping the European winter.
NEED TO KNOW
The colonial-era clubhouse at Royal Colombo Golf Club (above) in the heart of the Sri Lankan capital; the delightful par-3 12th at Victoria Golf & Country Resort, one of the best holes in the country; an Indian golfer tees off during the popular SriLankan Airlines Classic HKGOLFER.COM
While most nationalities do not require a visa to enter the country, all holiday and business travellers to Sri Lanka must obtain Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA) prior to arrival. Visit eta.gov.lk for more information. At the time of press, HK$1 equates to LKR16.3 (Sri Lankan Rupee).
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Alex Jenkins (Victoria); AFP (Golfer)
Royal Colombo Golf Club
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