GOLF ATRAVEL Player’s Guide Heavenly Hokkaido
Golf in Japan, but not as you know it! Charles McLaughlin sampled the delights of summer in Hokkaido, a region renowned for world-class skiing, but now one that has become a great golf destination in its own right.
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Paul Myers
he seasoned golf traveller will have experienced or at least heard much about playing in the Land of the Rising Sun: spending hours to reach the course, six-hour rounds (with a forced stop for lunch), obligatory caddies and eye-watering prices. Why put up with this at all? It’s simple really. Golf in Japan is of the highest quality: beautifully maintained courses, outstanding food, generally great weather, perhaps the world’s highest standards of service … but some may question if it’s really worth the effort and cost. Well, think again. The summer thaw in Hokkaido reveals a slew of standout courses that have been hibernating under a blanket of snow and, unlike those elsewhere in the country, await those keen to experience the game without the drawbacks of the usual slow play and high prices. This northerly island – the second largest in Japan – became a globally recognised winter sports destination with the awarding of the 1972 Winter Olympics to the capital Sapporo. This was the first time a winter Olympics had been held outside of the USA and Europe — although Japan had previously been awarded the 1940 games that were subsequently never held. Sapporo then became a growing destination for tourists, predominantly domestic until the numbers of overseas visitors grew exponentially following the establishment of the highly regarded tour operator SkiJapan and its followers.
Tokyu, otherwise known as Hanazono 56
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Clockwise from top: Peter Murphy, who established Yotei Golf, a dedicated golf travel company serving visitors to Hokkaido who come with their clubs in tow; a fantastic backdrop awaits at the Arnold Palmerdesigned Niseko Village course; sharp elevation changes are in store at the nearby Fukui course 58
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The Australian entrepreneur Peter Murphy started SkiJapan in 1996, having witnessed the stunning amount of dry snow deposited around the iconic Mount Yotei, aka “The Mount Fuji of the North”. The company now brings over 7,000 people a season to the resort town of Niseko and surrounds. This area, with nearly 600 inches of average annual snowfall, is officially the second snowiest resort in the world. Having conquered the ski market, the effervescent Murphy has now determined that golf in the area is as underappreciated as skiing was two decades ago and has established Yotei Golf, a dedicated travel company based in the shadow of its namesake. Leveraging the superb accommodation, leisure companies and bars and restaurants constructed for the winter visitors, and having built relationships with a growing number of first-class courses in the area, Yotei Golf now offers complete stay and play packages to any golfer wishing to visit the region. “Not many people outside Japan realise what the region offers outside the ski season, but with the launch of Yotei Golf, golf travellers can now add Hokkaido to their future warm weather travel considerations,” he says. “As well as golf, there’s white-water rafting, sea kayaking, cycling and mountain biking, onsen mineral spring baths – and you can hike to the top of Mount Yotei if you’re fit enough.”
Needless to say, whilst I did go hiking (to the sublime Lake Hangetsuko), and took in numerous other extra-curricular activities – including a visit to the Niseko Shuzou sake brewery, a spot of karaoke and a delightful lunch with the legendary Wagyu breeder Shogo Takeda – I couldn’t quite manage to garner the energy required to summit Mount Yotei. I hear from those who did that the views are jawdroppingly fabulous. Golfing wise, perhaps the biggest surprise for a visitor to Hokkaido is finding that there are over 170 courses on the island, with around 15 easily reachable from a base in Niseko’s accommodation hotspot Grand Hirafu. Once largely private, the boom and bust of the late 1980s to early 1990s led to many of the courses opening to the public and prices plummeted. Whilst painful for the developers, it has made the region a golfer’s paradise. Having such a breadth of facilities available in the most sparsely populated area in the country means tee times are readily available, and at bargain prices. Golf here is of course an exclusively summer pastime with courses open from May through October. The weather is perfect for golf at that time, and unlike elsewhere in Japan, 36 holes in a day is easily possible — although a leisurely 18 followed by a visit to the onsen (hot baths) is a delightful alternative. HKGOLFER.COM
Where to Play Niseko Tokyu
hole is the slightly ridiculous 10th, a 721-yard slog of a par-6.
Also called Hanazono, this is the best of the bunch in many ways. Great facilities, superb conditioning and memorable holes, with Mount Yotei forming a breathtaking backdrop on many of them. Wind plays an important part here and the four par-5s can make a mockery of the stroke index if the breeze is coming from an undesired direction. The 16th in particular is a spectacular beast when played into the breeze. The par-3s here are also a memorable feature. All four are challenging – especially the 17th, which from the elevated tees looks longer than its 214 yards. The green is narrow and a lake protects the front. With the wind straight into the player (as it was the day we played) a par here is a great result. Water comes into play on many of the holes, and, with no two consecutive holes playing in the same direction, you’re constantly asking yourself questions on the tee.
Niseko (Fukui)
Par: 73 Yardage: 6,845 Contact: niseko-village.com
The nearby Fukui course (aka “Arnold Palmer Hidden Course”) is an ugly sister to the Village. This is what one would expect a golf course built on a ski resort to look like, and whilst the sharp elevation changes are certainly dramatic, they are perhaps overdone. Penal rough awaits the wayward shot that doesn’t find the ever-present out-of-bounds meaning this isn’t a course for the weekend hacker. Walking this course would be exhausting just with one’s clubs, but with the bucket of balls one would need, a cart is essential. That said, for the accomplished golfer this may well represent the best value on the island. Painful as it is, Fukui offers a good contrast to Village; being a mental sharpener in case one has been lulled into a false sense of security by its pleasant sibling. Par: 72 Yardage: 6,805 Contact: niseko-village.com
Par: 72 Yardage: 7,003 Contact: niseko-tokyu.co.jp
Niseko Village Designed by Arnold Palmer and a stroll from the first-rate Hilton, this tree-lined track is a delightful setting for a game. Niseko Village is a true resort course as there are plenty of challenges here, but nothing insurmountable. It’s possible to relax and enjoy the magnificent scenery without one’s score disintegrating, and the facilities are superb, being part of the Hilton resort itself. A little unfortunately, the signature HKGOLFER.COM
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Rusutsu Resort Riverwood – Wood The Wood Course here is undoubtedly one of the best in the region. A more forgiving layout than the River, this is nevertheless no pushover. The picturesque second is an early wake up call: rated handicap index one, this is a treelined monster at 454 yards; accept a bogey and move on. As with every course in this area, the scenery is breathtaking and makes it difficult to concentrate on the mundane matter of keeping the ball in play. As ever, wind is a factor, made more challenging due to the sheer number of trees that shield its presence from the tees. Overall, a delightful combination of beauty and bother, you will want to play this again and again. Par: 72 Yardage: 6,817 Contact: en.rusutsu.co.jp
Toya Lake Hill Golf Club Slightly further out is this great facility, with four separate nines offering numerous combinations. It is 90 minutes from Niseko, but the journey itself offers superb views of the countryside. This course is situated high above its namesake lake, and the vistas are out of this world. Nakajima Island sits in the centre of the lake with numerous smaller islets dotted around, and ever present are Mount Usu and Mount Showashinzan. With the crisp clean air, it’s a heady mix. Also look out for the picturesque log cabin tea house on your way around. As ever, elevation changes make club selection difficult, and longer than expected rolls from tee shots bring danger into play. Let the atmosphere sink in, take it easy with your driver and this becomes a great place to play.
plot your way around here. This is especially true on the par-5s, which are all short enough to reach in two, but all feature narrow landing areas. Overshadowed by the elegant Wood Course, nevertheless this is a very fun course in its own right, with the 208-yard par-3 17th and the brilliant risk-reward 18th – measuring less than 280-yards providing a nerve-tingling finish to any close match. Par: 72 Yardage: 6,107 Contact: en.rusutsu.co.jp
Par: 72 Yardage: 7,136
Rusutsu Resort Riverwood – River
Paul Myers
There are two Rusutsu golf facilities and be careful not to mix the two! The Jumbo Ozaki-designed course by the resort funfair and ski lifts can be safely bypassed, and instead make your way to the superb Riverwood facility, just over half an hour from Niseko. This features two Curtis Strange designs – not-so imaginatively called River and Wood – and a superb chalet-style clubhouse. The clubhouse is renowned locally for its “Genghis Khan Barbeque”, which takes place on a huge wooden deck and is cooked on a hotplate in the middle of your table. Ice-cold beer, which is poured from the taps on the deck itself, makes for a great finish to a highly enjoyable 36-hole day here. Like some Scots I know, the River Course compensates for its shortness by being ill tempered and dour if not treated with respect. Narrow fairways with steep run-offs on either side would be painful enough. That the run-offs often lead to out-of-bounds makes this a tricky track to master. As the name suggests, water plays a part on many holes and it’s best to keep the big stick in the bag and 60
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Clockwise from top: Accommodations at the Alpen Ridge Apartments; white-water rafting on the Shiribetsu River; teeing off at Riverwood, a Curtis Strange design.
TRIP PLANNER WHERE TO STAY
OTHER ACTIVITIES
I stayed at the Alpen Ridge Apartments (alpenridge.com) in Grand Hirafu, which is immediately adjacent to the ski lifts. Luxurious condos are available for rent, with countless bars and restaurants within walking distance. Niseko Village Hilton (niseko-village.com) is the 5-star hotel option. First-class rooms and suites, superb restaurants, in-house onsen and with golf courses on the doorstep, it’s the ideal place to stay and play.
White water rafting: A lot of fun and can cool you down perfectly on a warm summers day. NOASC Rafting Centre (noasc.com) is the place to go. Great runs down the Shiribetsu River, with an expert guide in each boat.
GREEN FEES While it is of course possible to book tee times directly though the golf clubs themselves, by far the most convenient way to approach this is to arrange a hotel and golf trip through Yotei Golf Packages (yoteigolf.com), whose experience in the region makes life far easier.
GETTING THERE Cathay Pacific (cathaypacific.com) operates a daily nonstop flight from Hong Kong to Sapporo during the summer months (flying time: five hours).
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Hiking: Can be as vigorous or as relaxing as you choose. I opted for a leisurely stroll to Lake Hangetsuko, or “Half Moon Lake”. This involved climbing to the rim of the volcano and then down into the crater. The beautiful lake is mirror-smooth, peaceful and cool – the perfect spot for a quick dip before heading back. Niseko Village “Pure”: Adjacent to the landmark Niseko Village Hilton is this leisure area, featuring a huge array of activities including tree trekking on rope bridges, a 1.2km zipline track, mountain biking, and both Park Golf and Disk Golf. The former involves hitting a wooden ball the size of a baseball with a cudgel towards an oversized hole. Honestly, it’s more fun than it sounds. (www.niseko-village.com)
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