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The 9908MC movement-powered Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar HKGOLFER.COM

With the addition of a minute repeater and a grand complication pocket watch, Cartier proves that its Fine Watchmaking line can rival that of any full-fledged manufacture, writes Evan Rast CONTINUED OVERLEAF

HK GolferăƒťJAN 2013

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n the past four years, Cartier has surprised and the Geneva seal to boot. This is an achievement charmed even the most sceptical of watch that only a few Swiss watchmakers can collectors by presenting an extensive range boast about. In 2012, Cartier continued its strong focus on of high watchmaking pieces, each more ingenious and sophisticated than the next. I’m its Fine Watchmaking, with a collection made to impress. sure that if the brand wasn’t on With a diameter measuring your radar for watches, it certainly Cartier has used 59. 2mm, Car tier ’s Grand is now, especially with some of the more thought-provoking models it a three-pronged Complication Skeleton pocket watch was certainly one of the has presented, like the ID One and approach to bigger announcements of the Two, and the Astroregulateur. watchmaking year. It features a new in-house The company has been using movement with a skeleton a three-pronged approach to that has proven to u r b i l l o n , m o n o p u s h e r watchmaking that has proven extremely chronograph, perpetual extremely effective in establishing effective in calendar, and eight-day power their reputation: first, produce reserve, the calibre 9436MC. notable complications; second, establishing its Encased in 18k white gold, the create new twists to aesthetics reputation. watch is the epitome of classic and engineering; and lastly, invent style with its 1930s-inspired new mechanisms. The brand has gone from an assembler of numerals, which are part of the handwound parts to a fully developed manufacture, capable movement. A limited edition of 10 pieces in of producing grand complications, intricate white gold and five set with diamonds, the movements and concept watches entirely in- pocket watch comes mounted on a rock crystal house, and on a massive scale if needed, and with obsidian base.

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HK Golfer・JAN 2013

HKGOLFER.COM

The Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater o’clock. All indications are set via the crown and Flying Tourbillon is the company’s first minute the 45mm case comes in white or pink gold. For those who like their watches more threerepeater. The watch was developed completely in-house over five years. Equipped with the dimensional looking, the Rotonde de Cartier 9402MC, a movement with a whopping 447 Cadran Love Tourbillon should be of interest. Housing the calibre 9458MC, parts, the 42mm watch comes the timepiece features a solid in titanium or rose gold. What is The extraordinary g o ld chis ell e d o p enwo r k extraordinary about this model dial with Roman numerals, is the location of the hammers Rotonde de asymmetrically formed around and the gongs, which have been Cartier Minute a sub dial that has the hour cleverly incorporated on the dial Repeater Flying han ds , b r id g e an d f l y in g at 6 o’clock. A pusher on the side of the case activates the minute Tourbillon, which tourbillon carriage. The watch is offered in a limited series of 100 repeater, and as it does, the took five years numbered pieces. wearer will be given a great show to develop, is Last though not least, Cartier of hammers hitting the gongs on the dial. presents the Santos-Dumont the company’s Another new movement Skeleton in pink gold. The first of its kind. developed this year is the Santos-Dumont is another 9908MC, which powers the classic of the fine watchmaking Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar. This lineup, with its art deco numerals that form the function makes its possible for the watch to be skeletonised bridges of the movement. The precise for a year without having to reset the date, watch has been presented in white gold and it being able to count the months that have 30 or carbon titanium, but this is the first time it is being 31 days. A large date indicator is prominent at 12 offered in pink gold. HKGOLFER.COM

From left to right: the Grand Complication Skeleton pocket watch; the Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon; the Santos-Dumont Skeleton; the Rotonde de Cartier Cadran Love Tourbillon HK Golfer・JAN 2013

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