LIQUID ASSETS
The Exile Returns Scott Ishbern reports on the myriad delights of The Colonial Estate's famous Exile 2003 vintage, including a special reader offer
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tribute “Good Times, Bad Times” top of the he Colonial Estate winery was bunch, being ranked alongside the best from created in 2001 from a collection Opus One, Baron Philippe de Rothschild's of small plots of old vines in successful Californian venture. Australia’s Barossa Valley and was However, as the world lurched and stared into the brainchild of the genius that the financial abyss, something had to give and it is Jonathan Maltus. was The Colonial Estate which went under. The Maltus, an Englishman, rose to global prominence with his purchase of the mediocre rapid expansion, using the techniques which led Chateau Teyssier in St Emilion in 1994. By to success on a smaller scale, would only have buying parcels of better vines from the area and been sustainable if the premium pricing of old introducing New World techniques to the region, had been possible. In the event, it wasn’t, and he transformed the sleepy Teyssier into one of the the shooting star of a mere seven years crashed best estates in St Emilion. to earth and went into receivership. Of particular note are the series of single Maltus’ two other ventures continue to excel, vineyard wines he created, especially Le Dôme, Le and it is with a sense of what might have been Carré and Les Astières, all of which have achieved that we look back at one of the outstanding cult status. He personified the garagiste sobriquet creations The Colonial Estate produced. and was justifiably lauded for his achievements. The early vintages are almost impossible In 2001 he ventured to Australia for his next to obtain in any quantity and the 2003 Exile adventure and The Colonial Estate exploded in particular is extremely rare. This, only the onto the scene in 2002 with the release of its second vintage produced, was rated 94 by Parker first vintage. The names of the wines imply a and is a magnificent successor to the perhaps man feeling somewhat far from home: L’Expatrie, slightly overrated 2002. Explorer, Exodus, Émigré, Envoy and others, including laterally a series of With vines planted in the 19th century single vineyard offerings he named after legendary explorers. The flagship label, forming the core, and aged in new French oak, however, was The Exile. This stunning creation was the product of a single this is a vast wine, port-like in its appearance ancient vineyard from the 1800s in northern Barossa – 75-85 per cent Shiraz, and power. The colour is a stunning dark purple then mainly Mourvèdre and a smidge of Grenache. which promises depth and length – and one isn’t Robert Parker gushed over this new star in the firmament, giving the first disappointed. Decanting is essential and will vintage of Exile, the 2002, 98 points and heaping praise on what Maltus was reward the forward planner who gives this four bringing to the Barossa. With 20-20 hindsight, this instant success may have set or five hours to open up beautifully. the stage for the ultimate collapse of the operation in 2009. Parker found “hints of truffles, blackberry However, from 2002 to 2008, Maltus took the Colonial Estate on a superb liqueur, smoke, and licorice” here, but the run, producing vintage after vintage of 90+ rated issues. As before, The Exile overwhelming sensation is that of dark chocolate was the star of the show attracting top rankings every year. Needless to say, this and masses of fruit lingering in the never-ending was reflected in his pricing, with a very hefty premium on most of his releases, finish. This is an outstanding wine, which may and for the first few years all production was exclusively sold overseas. just be shading the 2002 at this stage in its Throughout all this growth, he insisted on retaining the painstaking manual development. Drinking superbly now and for processes that gave the wines their distinctive craftsman quality. These were the next five to six years. without question lovingly handcrafted gems, with the massive Exile sitting proudly at the forefront. Special Reader Offer In 2008, and by now known as JCP Maltus, Vigneron and HK Golfer can offer a very small parcel of the extremely rare The Colonial Winemaker, he went to California and did it again, creating Estate Exile 2003. At their peak, retail prices reached HK$2,000 per bottle World’s End winery in Napa Valley. Once more, he brought but we can offer the wine in cases of six OWC for only HK$900 per bottle, painstaking manual techniques to play, with close cropping, which includes delivery to anywhere in Hong Kong. Minimum order of 6 hand-picking, double-sorting, and lees in suspension and created bottles; professional storage available if required. Please order by email something exceptional. His first release of single vineyard wines to wine@hkgolfer.com or call (852) 3590 4153 again were all rated 90+, with the quaintly named Led Zeppelin 28
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