CLUBHOUSE Away from the Fairways TEE TIME
The Cartier ID One Concept Watch
SIHH: Around the Palexpo
Evan Rast proffers a selection of the most interesting pieces to look out for this year, straight from the halls of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie
Rotonde de Cartier Astroregulateur HKGOLFER.COM
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can easily classify this year’s novelties into three categories: the ones I like, the ones I love, and the pieces I would definitely want to acquire! But kidding aside, it was obvious that the creative spirit was very much centred on three things this year: technical and material innovation, dial artistry and China. CONTINUED OVERLEAF HK Golfer・Feb/Mar 2011
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Gorgeous in Geneva: Vacheron Constantin's latest addition to its Quai de I'lle series, the Retrograde Annual Calendar (bottom); the Tonda 1950 from Parmigiani Fleurier (top)
Ode to the Dragon
Yes. It seems a lot of our friends from Le Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle are looking East for design inspiration. And by that I don’t mean stereotypical Oriental themes. This year, many of the brands exercised restraint in their dials and cases, keeping them simple, streamlined, and made from precious metals, the most popular of which was rose gold. Thin is still very in, as manufactures, including Cartier, Parmigiani and Richard Mille, released models that were fitted with the leanest of movements, all the better to match those sexy, slender wrists. A nd while a lot of watch writers are expressing disappointment about watchmakers being too ‘safe’ this year, I think the mere fact that the Swiss watch industry places so much importance in what Asians – and particularly China – have to say, is good news. It’s time those voices are heard! What’s wrong about
having a classic and refined taste in watches, anyway? You’ll see I’m right with this rundown of the pieces that I think will be bestsellers in the region this year. While many of us know Parmigiani Fleurier for its one-of-a-kind Bugatti watches, tourbillons and collaborations with yacht maker Pershing, the brand presents a very pure model this year, in the case of the Tonda 1950. Fitted with the automatic calibre PF700, incidentally the brand’s twelfth in-house movement, the watch features a simple small second display at six o’clock, and that’s it. But under that very readable dial is an ultra-thin, automatic movement that is just 2.6mm thick, with an off-centre micro-rotor in 950 platinum, and offering a power reserve of 42 hours. The 39mm case is available in rose gold with a grained white dial, and white gold in a graphite dial. I a m a lso i mpressed w it h Vacheron Constantin’s latest addition to its Quai de l’Ile series, the Retrograde Annual Calendar. I’m sure most of you know this innovative collection, where apart from the shape and size of the case and a few design elements, one can customize their watch by changing the materials, colours and so on. This time, the movement features the in-house 2460 QRA calibre, an automatic with small seconds, annual calendar with moon phase, and retrograde display. Up to 700 variations are possible within the 43mm case. 14
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Cartier for instance, was once again the source of fine watchmaking feats this year. The Rotonde de Cartier Astroregulateur is one such example. Carole Forestier-Kasapi’s team wanted to devise a more accurate alternative to the tourbillon, for combating the negative effects of gravity. Instead of rotating the balance wheel continuously, the Astroregulateur sort of does the opposite, with an escapement assembly attached to the rotor on the dial to keep the balance wheel continually in one position. With a case in niobium-titanium to absorb shocks, and a remarkable complex winding and gear train mechanism with four patents pending, this is definitely one for the books, and your wrist! And if you liked last year’s Calibre de Cartier, you’ll love the latest version, which is a multiple time-zone watch. The in-house Calibre 9909MC indicates several hours simultaneously or individually on demand. It also provides the home time with day/night indication, the traveller time, the adjustment for summer, – and get this – the time diffe2rence between two selected time zones. Very cool. An extra-flat tourbillon in a carbon nanofiber baseplate is Richard Mille’s answer to the fans who have been waiting patiently for the RM017. The watch will be available in Hong Kong soon, and it has all the magnificent features of its predecessor, and then some. The watch is still at 49.8x38mm, with a curved tonneau caseback; but this time, a mere 8.7mm
Show stoppers (clockwise from top): The RM017 from Richard Mille; Panerai's bronze Luminor Submersible 1950; AP goes back to its roots with the Millenary Handwound Minute Repeater; Piaget's beautiful Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic. 16
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One of t he leaders of t he ‘t hin is in’ movement, Piaget, has outdone itself with the Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic, which sets a new record as the world’s thinnest tourbillon. Housed in its iconic cushion-shaped case is the 1270P automatic calibre, vibrating at 21,600vph, with an off-centred tourbillon carriage, and measuring a mere 5.35mm thick (that’s 1/10th of the length of the shortest tee!) Taking the team three years to develop, the watch is extremely complicated, first because of the tourbillon, and second, because of the oscillating weight for the automatic function, which in this case has been moved from the back to the dial. It really is something to behold.
Technical Mix
Be it from materials, complications or remarkable innovations in design, my favourites under this category prove that great tradition doesn’t always have to translate into the classic and understated. HKGOLFER.COM
thick, and featuring an ultra-thin tourbillon, carbon nanofiber baseplate, and a gear-box type function indicator for winding the crown. The watch comes in 18k rose gold with titanium and limited to 50 pieces. Audemars Piguet goes back to its roots but spices it up with the Millenary Handwound Minute Repeater. The watch’s traditional oval case and dial is given a three-dimensional edge by the semi-openworked design that highlights the new AP escapement and double balancespring, as well as the watch’s hammers and striking gongs; all in a rich combination of titanium and gold. And speaking of material choices, there is one brand that has always been strong in this domain: Panerai. I have several friends on the waiting list for this watch, and I know its going to be a big hit when it becomes available in Hong Kong. The new Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic comes in a very striking bronze. Seriously. The 47mm case is made of CuSn8 bronze, which is an alloy of copper and tin, and in pure state is resistant to water and atmospheric corrosion. Housing the in-house P.9000 automatic 30day movement, the watch features a rotating bezel and Panerai’s signature crown protector, together with a very attractive shade of green for the dial.
Daring Dials
Sometimes, you just want to do away with the technicalities and just bask in the magnificence of great works of art. There are three that were particularly riveting for me this year. HKGOLFER.COM
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Fancy faces (clockwise from top): VCA's Five Weeks in a Balloon; the striking dial design of Roger Dubuis' Chronograph La Monegasque; the unmistakale Rotonde de Cartier with bear motif
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First, the Rotonde de Cartier 42mm jumping hour with bear motif. A very ambitious project, last year’s jumping hour movement has been incorporated into a dial that features a bear. But not just any bear. This one was created out of wood. 10 species of European wood were used for the bear’s fur for precise grain and texture. The pieces are then cut and subtly darkened to create the illusion of depth. Each dial is unique and requires about 160 hours of marquetry work. The watch comes in white gold. For lovers of fantasy and adventure, Van Cleef & Arpels presents a colourful journey which Samuel Ferguson, Dick Kennedy and their servant, Joe, took part in as heroes of the novel Five Weeks in a Balloon, written by Jules Verne in 1863. Skies of turquoise enamel and waves and clouds in mother-of-pearl provide a colourful backdrop to the retrograde movement, with hours and minutes indicated by the balloon’s anchor and a bird in flight. Then it’s back to the 1940s for Roger Dubuis with the Chronograph La Monegasque, with its very striking, contrasting colours, and a dial design reminiscent of the casino roulette. A satin sunburst centre with a circular satin exterior incorporates a 30-minute counter at three o’clock and small seconds at nine o’clock. The 44mm case comes in steel or rose gold, and houses the manufacture RD680 automatic movement.
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