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n this writer’s opinion the large watch revolution of the last few years has permanently changed the desired size of timepieces for men. Due to simple physical differences in each man, there is no specific “perfect width” for a watch, but a broad appearance on the wrist is certainly preferred. This applies even to classicstyle timepieces that have traditionally been considered most desirable when produced in petite sizes.
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A perfect example of this is the perpetual calendar. Devising a mechanical structure to indicate not only the time, but also a series of complex calendar features including allowances for leap years and the phase of the moon, the perpetual calendar has traditionally been most celebrated when engineered to operate in small places. Modern interpretations of this prized set of complications focus less on the narrowness of the case, but rather the flatness of the movement itself. Ac cord i n g to G iu l io Papi the lead watch maker at APRP (Audemars Pig uet Renaud & Papi) – the main location where complex watch movements for Audemars Piguet are designed and manufactured – the future of complex timepieces will see brands focusing on “broad and flat” timepieces, a move that will allow for generous case diameters that feature low height profiles. This definition of elegance is not new. Watch makers have long since valued thin movement construction as one of the prized “complications,” and today’s technology allows for such endeavors to be taken further. At just 9.15m m t h ick , t he Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Perpet ual Calendar is among the thinnest (if not the thinnest) perpetual calendar watches of 2010. Set in a Jules Audemars collection style case, the watch promotes the brand’s mastery of the perpetual calendar style complication, and offers a striking classically-designed timepiece with dimensions better suited to modern tastes. Suited well for convenience and easy ownership, the Jules Audemars Perpetual Calendar has an automatic movement. Visible through a window in the sapphire caseback, one can admire the movement and highly engraved automatic rotor. The majority of theses watches will be engraved with “A P” on the rotor, but a select few will be customized for customers interested in having Audemars Piguet engrave the customer’s initials instead. This process is more than just an art project for watch makers, and involves precise adjustments to the movement to allow for slight variations in the weight of the rotor HKGOLFER.COM
Revolution: these two Audemars Piguet references - with brown and silvered dials respectively - are possibly the thinnest perpetual calendars of the year, at just 9.15mm thick. Set in a Jules Audemars collection style case the watch is a striking classicallydesigned timepiece with dimensions better suited to modern tastes.
SCORECARD Jules Audemars Perpetual Calendar References 26390OR.OO.D093CR.01 Case in 18-carat pink gold, brown dial 26390OR.OO.D088CR.02 Case in 18-carat pink gold, silvered dial
when letters other than “AP” are placed in the rotor. The engraved section of the rotor is in white gold, while it has a separate element (for weight) that is in 21k yellow gold. Finishing and decoration on most Jules Audemars cases has always intrigued me. Sitting in a healthy 41mm wide 18k rose gold case, the bulging sides of the watch are presented with a brushed finishing, while the bezel, lugs, and caseback are mirror polished. Such “contrast polishing” is common, but the use of a brushed rounded middle section to the case is unique and helps identify the watch as part of the Jules Audemars collection timepieces. The rose gold case is complimented with two choices of dial colours – brown and silver. While silver dials options are not uncommon, brown dials are (at least historically). Recent years have seen brown become a popular choice among dials, especially as the colour compliments a gold case well. The trendy dial hue will likely find a home on more complex watches but is still novel for elegantly styled perpetual calendar watches such as this. Audemars Piguet prefers a traditional perpetual calendar layout in its watch dials, which feels particularly appropriate for the tone of this watch. Observation of historic Audemars Piguet perpetual calendars reveals a deep traditional use of this layout since the brand made only pocket watches. Interesting though are minor design elements that offer a hint of sleekness to the dial of the watch – but retain stylized decoration the define Audmars HKGOLFER.COM
Piguet timepiece. You’ll notice that while the dial is a simple flat tone, the recessed subdials have a gorgeous inner ring polish that is an easy to miss, but a highly appreciated design feature once noticed. The thin baton-style hour markers are in polished 18k rose gold and complimented to leaf-style polished 18k gold hands. Most of the subsidiary dial hands are crafted to be miniature versions of the main hands. Those unfamiliar with the perpetual calendar watches will find this watch to indicate the time, date, date of the week, month, leap year, and moon phase ind icat ion. Adjust ing t he calendar setting is done via small inset pushers on the side of the case, and it is highly important to refer to the watch instructions as many perpetual calendars have limitations on when its calendar functions can be set. Contained within the watch is an inhouse made and developed ultra-thin caliber 2010/2802 automatic movement that is 4mm thick. Allow me to remind you that with its slim, yet modern size, the Jules Audemars Perpetual Calendar is part of a growing breed of classic watches made for contemporary times, and is certainly among Audemar’s Piguet best new timepieces of the year. www.audemarspiguet.com.
Movement Calibre : 2120/2802 ultra-thin selfwinding Total diameter: 121/2 lignes (28.4 mm) Casing diameter: 28 mm Thickness: 4 mm 38 jewels 355 parts Power reserve: up to 40 hours Cadence of the balance: 19,800 vibrations per hour Finishing: all parts decorated by hand; mainplate chamfered and circular-grained; bridges adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif Case 18-carat pink gold Diameter: 41 mm Thickness: 9.15 mm Water resistance: 20 metres Sapphire crystal exhibition back Dial Brown or silvered with applied pink gold hour-markers Pink gold hour and minute hands Strap Brown hand-sewn alligator leather with large square scales, 18-carat pink gold AP folding clasp Functions Hours and minutes Day Date Month Leap-year cycle indication Moon phases
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