SINGLE MALTS
The Best Place in the World
Whisky editor John Bruce on Islay’s Bruichladdich Distillery and its limited edition “Links” series
D
espite the best efforts of as promised, to Bruichladdich. The distillery, on Islay, has been nominated in the G overnment t here is an category “World’s Best Place to Drink”, which one could think was slightly off undeniable link between the mark, but at five pounds for a tour of the distillery which includes a dram, sport and alcohol, and not an perhaps they have got it right. entirely negative one. As usual, There is much to be written about Bruichladdie and its rescue by a group this thought came to me in of private investors to re-emerge as a truly traditional distillery but the editor’s an entirely circuitous manner as I pondered the preference for brevity remains and I’ll focus on the actual whisky, which makes upcoming Open Championship at St Andrews. its own case more than adequately. Harking back to the criticism of Scottish Being Scottish and less than well-acquainted with marketing, Bruichladdich stands proud as an exception to that rule. A distillery sporting success I treasure each and every triumph where we sneak up on the big boys and steal the prize from under their noses, which was what Paul Lawrie did so well back in 1999 at Carnoustie. Actually, Lawrie didn’t sneak up on his opponents as much as bushwhack them from the comfort of the clubhouse. Never in the lead at any point through the 72 holes, he waited in ambush as the field came back to him. Aided by some fine Scottish water and the misfortune of Jean Van de Velde, he Island splendour: the won in a playoff against the cursed Bruichladdich distillery on Islay Frenchman and Justin Leonard. A much more expa nsive stretch of water nearly cost Scotland one of its that makes so much of its traditional methods and absence of modern technology true sporting heroes when, after a late night that manages to win the “Innovator of the Year” award for 2004 must be run celebration of Scotland beating Wales in 1974, by some very astute people. An obvious example of this is their “Bruichladdich Jimmy Johnstone famously set off from Largs in Links” series of limited edition bottlings launched in 2003, which celebrates the a rowing boat to get some more Jamaican rum two Scottish passions of whisky and golf. Although an 18-year-old might have to continue the party. Always confident in his been more appropriate, each of the series is bottled at fourteen years and the first own skills, Johnstone had bitten off more than released was “The Old Course, St. Andrews-17th Hole”. even he could chew and the coastguard had to Of the eleven released so far, I have only sampled one, the fourth in the series, rescue the best winger Scotland ever produced. “Turnberry 10th”, and it was an experience that I truly enjoyed. The immediate My memory of this incident was sparked surprise was the lack of peatiness in this golden coloured malt. Indeed, there was a by an article in Lonely Planet, which decried strong fruitiness to the nose and the taste and finish were spicy and even slightly sweet. the efforts of the Scottish Tourist Board, Given that each of these bottlings are strictly limited, with an average of 12,000 describing them as “casually kicking a ball bottles released, it is not surprising that they are hard to find in Hong Kong, around rather then going for goal” when although visitors to St Andrews for this year’s Open might be lucky enough to find advertising the attractions of the country. Two a few bottles. However, there is no need to despair as a variety of Bruichladdich Argyll landmarks, the West Highland Line and bottlings are more readily available. The 12- and 18-year-olds are both matured in Bruichladdich Distillery have been nominated in bourbon casks and are delightfully complex examples of Islay malts which eschew the publication’s inaugural awards. the traditional peat and salt dominated flavours. The distillery is also receiving much I have travelled the railway that is the West praise for its series of sherry-aged varieties and I eagerly anticipate sampling them, Highland Line, and it was a truly magnificent perhaps while watching a Scot sneak in at St Andrews. experience rolling slowly through the unmatched With that in mind, we should reflect that while Jimmy Johnstone would have scenery of western Scotland. However, this been advised to seek a nearer island and a better drink, Scotland, with his assistance, is an article where I occasionally feature the did go on to hammer the English two-nil four days later. Should Monty be found promised topic and this brings us, circuitously afloat off Islay in the early hours of a July morning I’d be excitedly optimistic. HKGOLFER.COM
HK Golfer・Jun/Jul 2010
23