RAUMATI • SUMMER 2020
WEST COAST
“And now the work begins,” Andrew told the newspaper. “When you think about the fact that it hasn’t been occupied for 30 years it is actually in remarkable shape. Yes, there are issues but it’s in good, clean condition for a building of its nature and age. “(This property) will give Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga a Te Tai Poutini presence, which is something we haven’t had.” The Hokitika Government Building and Seddon Statue will join 44 other properties Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga cares for nationwide. Other properties include the Kerikeri Mission Station complex in Northland, Old Government Buildings in Wellington, Kate Sheppard House in Christchurch and the birthplace of our frozen meat industry, Totara Estate near Oamaru.
The Hokitika Government Building and Seddon Statue. CREDIT: HERITAGE NEW ZEALAND POUHERE TAONGA
Hokitika project big and exciting Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga is delighted to have been given the responsibility to earthquake strengthen and refurbish the Hokitika Government Building for use as a vibrant and valued part of the community once again.
The Government’s funding for the purchase and $22 million upgrading of this significant Te Tai Poutini West Coast property from the COVID Response and Recovery Fund, allocated by Infrastructure Reference Group Ministers, was announced in late September. Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga staff visited the Hokitika Government Building in early October to uplift the keys and assess the condition of the property. In a front page article in the local newspaper the Hokitika Guardian, Chief Executive Andrew Coleman said the Sewell Street property was in better than expected condition considering it has not been occupied for some time.
The Hokitika Government Building and Seddon Statue are Category 1 listed historic places on the New Zealand Heritage List/Rārangi Kōrero. They are of special or outstanding historical or cultural significance or value. Once seismic strengthening is completed the property will be refitted for use as offices for the Department of Conservation Te Papa Atawhai, which will lease the building. Other areas of the building will be accessible, telling its history and the wider heritage of the immediate area including the Tohu Whenua programme, which includes the Hokitika Port, Commercial and Government Centre. CONTINUED OVER >
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Contents 1
WEST COAST
10/11 TOHU WHENUA
Hokitika project big and exciting
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CONTENTS
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Places telling our stories
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NORTHLAND Real time conservation at Māngungu Mission
EDITORIAL Chief Executive Andrew Coleman
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WHANGANUI
16/17 FIORDLAND Diary of a Tamatea/Dusky Sound adventure
NORTHLAND Whangaroa Papa Hapū listing project underway
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14/15 SOUTH ISLAND So much to see and do in the South
Very special celebration at St Paul’s Memorial Church Pūtiki
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Heritage holiday getaways
FEATURE INTERVIEW Christine Whybrew: When heritage is a perfect fit
AUCKLAND/THAMES
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WELLINGTON Carter Fountain represents significant legacy
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Exploring the Forgotten World Highway
“A revitalised, tenanted and vibrant Hokitika Government Building will have significant benefits for the West Coast economy.”
SUPPORTER SPOTLIGHT
Jackie Breen, based in the HNZPT Ōtautahi Christchurch office, will lead the development and planning for the Hokitika Government Building project. She has previously lived on the West Coast, working for the Department of Conservation Te Papa Atawhai, and brings a wealth of community knowledge, and experience, to the project.
Membership – the perfect gift!
Editor: Jamie Douglas. Designer: Jeremiah Boniface. Heritage Quarterly is printed with mineral oil-free, soy-based vegetable inks on Sumo paper. This paper is Forestry Stewardship Council® (FSC®) certified, manufactured from pulp from responsible sources under the ISO 14001 Environmental Management System. Please recycle.
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“Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga looks forward to returning this impressive property to the status it, and the community, deserves,” says Mr Coleman.
“This is a massive project, but one that will bring considerable economic benefits and add great heritage value to Hokitika,” says Ms Breen. “It’s exciting to work through the many possibilities on what an asset this building can become to Te Tai Poutini West Coast.” n
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Members of Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga can visit its properties for free, visit www.heritage.org.nz
Writer: Jamie Douglas ABOVE The interior is in relatively good, clean condition. CREDIT: HERITAGE NEW ZEALAND POUHERE TAONGA
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EDITORIAL
Glorious opportunities in domestic tourism
ANDREW COLEMAN
Recently, a group of individuals were planning a trip to Northland and I was asked what I could recommend to them. My first response was “Tohu Whenua”, quickly followed by “heritage properties and stories”. My third comment was “it’s all about New Zealand’s history and heritage – exploring and learning”. This line of thinking took me back to Tohu Whenua, a fantastic programme all about heritage, history, stories, properties, exploring and learning. I really enjoy having these conversations with heritage and history supporters for a number of reasons. It is pleasing that a strong feature of this edition of Heritage Quarterly is the promotion of heritage properties, programmes and the stories they represent. It is a must read for anyone who has the same question as the group I spoke to. It is a pleasure for Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga to be tasked with the acquisition of the Hokitika Government Building. It will be a challenge to strengthen and adaptively reuse it, but a challenge we readily accept.
This is a building with an important history. It also has important links to other heritage stories across the country due to the connection and influence of Richard Seddon. Born in Eccleston near St Helens, Lancashire, England, Seddon arrived in New Zealand in 1866. He was a resident of Kumara, with locals electing him as their parliamentary representative in 1881. In 1893, he became leader of the Liberal Party and for the next 13 years as Premier was widely regarded as dominating politics. Seddon was credited with social and economic change, significant public works and inherited a Bill for women’s suffrage. The statues in Hokitika and on the forecourt at Parliament are reminders of his legacy. Connecting and celebrating places with our history and heritage is what Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga is about. We do this through the 44 properties we care for on behalf of the country, and will continue to do with additional properties such as the Hokitika Government Building. Programmes such as Tohu Whenua provide us with many opportunities to encourage and invite New Zealanders to explore and visit their country. The summer campaign for Tohu Whenua to ‘Discover the places that tell our stories’ is an inviting catchphrase. The good thing is that in behind the catchphrase there are many glorious heritage opportunities. Exploring one, some or all of the 24 Tohu Whenua in the three current regions the programme features should be a goal of every New Zealander. It is impressive that each current Tohu Whenua region has its unique story:
arrived, centuries apart, and where their identities were defined. • Otago showcases examples of a pioneering nation with places that tell the stories of our collective ingenuity, creativity and spirit – some of the cornerstones of our economic and entrepreneurial livelihood. • Te Tai Poutini West Coast represents the rise of a resourceful nation that tells the stories of the hardships endured for our country’s most prized resources. A region known for its incredible beauty and rich bounty, these are places where limits were tested and rewarded. So, there are many opportunities to visit Tohu Whenua and heritage properties around the country. Many are privately owned and others are owned by you – New Zealanders – and managed on your behalf by Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga. You will find that you are spoilt for heritage choice! The challenge is there for us all – so be a domestic tourist. Go and explore and discover the places that tell our stories. You might like to also explore other heritage gems that feature in this issue. Try Tamatea/Dusky Sound in Fiordland, the Toitū Otago Settlers Museum in Dunedin, Pūtiki Church in Whanganui, Whangaroa, the Forgotten World Highway in Taranaki, the Carter Fountain in Wellington and archaeological sites. This edition of Heritage Quarterly certainly offers up many options for you. Enjoy your heritage.n
ANDREW COLEMAN
CHIEF EXECUTIVE
• Northland highlights the birth of a bicultural nation and the interweaving journeys that tell the stories of our beginnings. These are the places where our Māori and European ancestors
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FEATURE INTERVIEW
When heritage is a perfect fit Heritage and history are passions Christine Whybrew has nurtured from a young age and continues to explore in her working career. Based in Christchurch, the Manager Heritage Assets for the Southern Region says there are exciting times ahead and plenty to celebrate. She talks with John O’Hare.
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Tell us about your role at Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga? I work for Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga (HNZPT) as Manager Heritage Assets for the Southern Region. I oversee the work of our team of brilliant Property Leads in the South Island and look after our unstaffed properties in the region. I started at HNZPT in 2008 as a part-time researcher while I was finishing my PhD on the Burton Brothers’ photographic studio. Twelve years later I’m still here! In that time I’ve undertaken a number of additional fixed-term roles and in 2017 was made Area Manager Canterbury/West Coast. Heritage has been good to me.
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What made you decide to take on the new role? My early career was in museums and art galleries and I’ve always enjoyed caring for objects and sharing the stories that they carry. HNZPT’s properties are like one huge museum, so shifting back into a role to look after ‘things’ was an exciting and logical move for me. In my work as Area Manager I recognised the opportunity we have with our property portfolio to put ‘our money where our mouth is’ in terms of heritage management. We not only celebrate these places as visitor attractions, but can also demonstrate best practice in the physical maintenance of these places and develop commercial opportunities in adaptive reuse
and partnerships. Through our properties we can inspire and influence other property owners and developers to appreciate and celebrate heritage assets.
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Is there a particular property or place that is really special to you, and why? In my younger days, I undertook my OE in Aotearoa and got to know the country outside Canterbury where I was born and brought up. I was fortunate to spend a couple of years working in New Plymouth as a curator at Puke Ariki Museum and Library. My friend and former boss, Kelvin Day, introduced my partner and I to the archaeological landscape of Taranaki. Kelvin took us on road trips around the maunga and the coast, visiting pre-European Māori and Land Wars sites where the marks of occupation and conflict can be seen in the land. This experience of the layers of stories in the landscape influenced my deep appreciation for the importance of place, particularly for tangata whenua. In terms of built heritage, I’m a sucker for Brutalist Modernism, particularly anything designed by Sir Miles Warren. If I had to pick one, Christchurch Town Hall is a favourite for Warren and Mahoney’s total design philosophy and the sheer beauty of the spaces, materials and architectural details. The complex also holds some very special memories for me from my childhood in Christchurch. I was proud to see that my final act as Area Manager was to see Christchurch Town Hall entered on the New Zealand Heritage List/Rārangi Kōrero as a Category 1 historic place.
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Southern Region properties we are looking at the layered stories we can tell at these places to engage with a broader audience. As a mum, I’m also eager to attract younger audiences and make our properties appealing and accessible for families. Our children will inherit these places, so it is important they understand and appreciate them too.
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Are there any exciting projects on the radar at the properties you oversee? HNZPT’s recent acquisition of the Hokitika Government Building is a large, and slightly daunting, project on the radar! On the day we took ownership, I walked through with our Project Co-ordinator, Jackie Breen. I was pleasantly surprised by the condition of the building with almost no signs of vandalism – which is usually the death knell for unoccupied buildings. It’s clear that the people of Hokitika have been watchful guardians of this building which is a significant landmark in the town. It is fitting that HNZPT takes the lead in strengthening and restoring this building and returning it
to the use for which it was designed: as an office for central government workers in Te Tai o Poutini.
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How special is it to have Kate Sheppard House in Christchurch under HNZPT management? This summer we’re looking forward to opening Te Whare Waiutuutu Kate Sheppard House to the people of Aotearoa New Zealand. Property Lead Helen Osborne and I have spent this year getting to know the property a lot better and have worked closely with our exhibition developers to produce a visitor experience that we know people will enjoy. Opening the doors is just the beginning of the adventure though. We are sure people will continue to bring their own stories of the place and the house, and their connection to Kate Sheppard and the suffrage movement. Our partnership with the University of Canterbury will give Kate Sheppard House its special character as a place where people can come together to learn and talk and to reflect on the legacy of the suffrage movement in ongoing moments of social change. n
How important is it that we celebrate and visit our heritage
places? He tāngata, he tāngata, he tāngata – it is people, it is people, it is people. Understanding the stories of historic places acknowledges the connections people have to places, and informs decisions on how to care for the land and built heritage. At our
LEFT: Christine Whybrew at the Christchurch office in Gloucester Street. CREDIT: JONNY KNOPP RIGHT: Christchurch Town Hall. CREDIT: HERITAGE NEW ZEALAND POUHERE TAONGA
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WHANGANUI
Very special celebration at St Paul’s Memorial Church Pūtiki After months of planning between Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga staff and the trustees of St Paul’s Memorial Church and community at Pūtiki, Whanganui, it was a joyous occasion for over 100 invited guests on 16 October celebrating the listing of the church as a Category 1 historic place and the wonderful conservation work programme carried out.
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Archdeacon Bernard Broughton was especially proud of the conservation work, a real community effort with key organisers Margaret Tauri and Huia Kirk and staff from Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga over a considerable period of time. “This is a wonderful day for us and the whole community of Whanganui – something we have looked forward to for a long time.” St Paul’s Pūtiki Church is one of the most beautifully decorated churches in New Zealand. Its tukutuku designs speak to the history and heritage of the church, iwi and area. It is also described as a “wonder to behold” and “historic treasure”. St Paul’s Memorial Church Pūtiki shares an important history with other Māori churches and
marae built under the leadership of Tā Apirana Ngata from the 1920s. It followed a style of church development that had its beginnings in the construction of St Mary’s Church at Tikitiki on the East Coast in 1926. In this period, Tā Apirana was particularly interested in developing a model to revitalise the arts of carving, kōwhaiwhai and weaving through the building of meeting houses, dining halls and churches. Community leaders, staff, Board and Māori Heritage Council members from Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga were proud to join the celebration at the church on 16 October. Tā John Clarke, Chair of the Māori Heritage Council, spoke of his strong connections with Whanganui through race relations and human rights over the years and of the priviledge to witness progress and achievement in a significant way. He said the celebration of the conservation project was “another one of those very, very special events”. “I am proud to carry the Māori Heritage Council’s visionary document for Māori heritage of Tapuwae. It articulates a clear
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vision for how our organisation engages positively with iwi, hapū and whānau. The work undertaken here at Pūtiki is a wonderful example of the principles of Tapuwae in action,” said Tā John. Tā John further emphasised the historic place where the people of Pūtiki-wharenui were introduced to Christianity in the midto-late 1830s by Wiremu Eruera te Tauri, a rangatira of Ngāti Tūwharetoa hapū, Ngai te Rangi Ita, who married the daughter of Pūtiki chief Te Māwae. He said the church embodied the influences that Christianity and Māori culture have had on each other. “The listing of this truly beautiful church has been a process conducted by you, the tangata whenua and members of our Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga team. It’s a cooperative result best summed up by this saying: Whakapūpūngia ō mānuka kia kore ai e whati. It means ‘bundle up your mānuka twigs so they won’t snap’,” said Tā John. Dean Whiting, Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga Director Kaiwhakahaere Tautiaki Taonga and Kaupapa Māori,
who provided advice and assisted the conservation work on the interior of St Paul’s Memorial Church along with colleague Jim Schuster, Pouarahi Traditional Arts, was also a keynote speaker at the celebration. Dean said he was especially pleased to be a part of the project team carrying out the extensive conservation and preservation of the taonga in the church interior. He spoke of the legacy that the community had retained through the work of Tā Apirana Ngata in the 1930s and in later decades for their request to enlist Pine Taiapa, in the 1970s, to revitalise the traditional arts practices their grandparents had experienced. “It was from this and the involvement of my late father, Dr Cliff Whiting, that new generation work was created in the parish hall adjoining the church,” said Dean. He said the community’s deep connection to the church is a part of what makes it so special. “People’s ties to the Pūtiki church are intergenerational and enduring.” A church trustee, Huia Kirk, who has worked closely with Dean along with fellow planner
of the celebration, Margaret Tauri, spoke of the timeline of changes to the Pūtiki Mission Station, including replacements from its original siting close to the river where earlier church buildings were seriously affected by flooding and other impacts. Huia expressed the pride all other speakers had given to the meeting. Fittingly, it was a proud moment for Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga Senior Heritage Assessment Advisor, Blyss Wagstaff, to hand over to Kaumātua John Maihi a special plaque and bound listing report to the church on behalf of Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga. n
Writer: David Watt 1: St Paul’s Memorial Church community members and invited guests following the ceremony. 2: A blue sky day at Putiki’s church. 3: Community members and invited guests inside the stunning church. 4: Tā John and Lady Kathy Clarke enjoying the day. CREDIT: ALL PHOTOS BY MARK BRIMBLECOMBE/HERITAGE NEW ZEALAND POUHERE TAONGA
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Whangaroa Papa Hapū listing project underway
A project identifying sites of significance to Māori in Northland is about to get underway with the goal of protecting them and restoring knowledge of their history. From left, Mita Harris, Awhirangi Lawrence, Robyn Tauroa, Pat Tauroa (seated) and Waiatua Hikuwai. CREDIT: HERITAGE NEW ZEALAND POUHERE TAONGA
The project – led by Whangaroa Papa Hapū with support from Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga – has begun identifying wāhi tapu and key archaeological features in the Whangaroa region, and recording kōrero about these places. The new approach to listing, which incorporates places within a wider landscape, will enable sites to be scheduled by the council and protected. According to Pat Tauroa of Whangaroa Papa Hapū, gaining recognition for these sites is needed before it’s too late. “Whangaroa was the first area where resources were extracted and sent overseas. It was also where European settlement occurred with the missionaries, and where colonial rule started to impact Māori,” she says.
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of the team of hapū volunteer archivists driving the project.
our perspective – with integrity and aroha,” she says.
“There have been at least 12 archaeological reports done as part of resource consent processes,” she says. “They’ve all recorded archaeological sites, but none have been registered and therefore protected.”
There is some concern about sharing the knowledge, however.
According to Awhirangi Lawrence – also a hapū volunteer – indifference and ignorance has resulted in wāhi tapu and archaeological sites being sidelined, and in some cases, deliberately destroyed. “We have become wary about identifying places because some of the kōrero that we share is not always taken seriously. Our way of believing and living has been denigrated as ‘myths and legends’ – and so many Māori have stopped talking about these places,” she says.
“All this has not only been felt – it’s still being applied. By 1865, Māori here had lost 65 percent of our land to the Crown. A lot of the information and history about sites of significance has also gone.”
The project provides opportunities to reclaim and record histories associated with these places – on hapū terms.
There has been no shortage of archaeological reports and research over the years according to Robyn Tauroa – one
“The way the Boyd incident is told, for example, always makes Māori look bad. I want to be able to tell that story from
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Distorted versions of history are another reason for the project, says Waiatua Hikuwai.
“We know of situations where some tour operators, for example, tell our stories in a derogatory way and make money out of it. Nevertheless, we feel that the risk is outweighed by the opportunity to protect these places by increasing people’s understanding of them,” says Robyn. The next generation is another driving force. “My grandchildren are asking for kōrero about tupuna history. If this project can help record some of this information then at least the kōrero will carry on,” says Pat. Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga Director Kaiwhakahaere Tautiaki Wahi Taonga, Mita Harris, is excited about the project’s possibilities. “The best thing is that it is being led by hapū – and can potentially result in similar work happening around the country.” n
Writer: John O’Hare
WELLINGTON
Carter Fountain represents significant legacy Travellers in and around Wellington often take it for granted what a beautiful landscape we have in the city. At the very centre is a fountain gifted to Wellington. Not just any fountain, but something that has come to be respected by locals and visitors for 47 years, in memory of Hugh Carter, a top Wellington and New Zealand businessman. Hugh Allan Carter was a man of vision. He wanted a special harbour feature, which the city accepted and dedicated to his name and the Carter family. It has become a legacy over four decades for his foresight and a working symbol of our heritage assets in and around Oriental Bay. The fountain, which cost in excess of $75,000 in 1973, was gifted to Wellington in memory of Hugh’s parents, George and Ella Carter, who gave much to the city. George Carter was closely associated with the founder of McKenzies Ltd in New Zealand, Sir John McKenzie. Hugh’s mother, Ella, was Sir John’s sister. Hugh was born in Auckland in 1917 and educated at Auckland Grammar. He wanted to be a civil engineer but the depression years persuaded him that accountancy would be more useful. He joined the Queen Street branch of McKenzies in 1935, later rising to become managing director of McKenzies Ltd New Zealand in Wellington in 1969.
Jet d’Eau fountain he saw on a trip to Geneva, Switzerland, in the early 1960s. Although this fountain was located on a fresh water lake, he was mindful that Wellington harbour, with its salt water, would provide some challenges for the construction engineering team dealing with the corrosion of working parts. The fountain spouts 16m into the air. A wind sensor on the nearby band rotunda at Oriental Bay prevents the fountain from operating above a given wind speed. Over the years the annual maintenance cost of the fountain and its working parts has been considerable, including electricity and replacing pumps.
The handing over ceremony of the fountain to the City of Wellington in March 1973 was marred, two days later, by Hugh’s tragic death when he drowned as a result of a fall into the harbour from his yacht, the Kualani. He was only 55. The Carter Fountain remains a wonderful legacy to Hugh and all that his family have given to Wellington. At special times of the year the fountain is lit up in coloured lights and imagery recognising calendar events and festivals in the city. During summer it is a centrepiece for swimming and boating events. n
Writer: David Watt
During World War Two, Hugh served with the 2nd New Zealand Expeditionary Force for four years in the Middle East and Italy. He had a great love of water and of Wellington harbour, and had many ideas on how the city could be improved. He made his first donation to the city with money for trees to be planted around Point Jerningham and on Mount Crawford. His parents also paid for the Oriental Bay flower garden. Fountains and the movement of water fascinated Hugh. He was inspired by the ABOVE: Hugh Carter. CREDIT: CARTER FAMILY RIGHT: The Carter Fountain in all its glory during a sporting event. CREDIT: NEIL PRICE/WELLINGTON CITY COUNCIL
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TOHU WHENUA
Others are hidden gems that are slightly off the beaten track. Among these is Rangihoua Heritage Park, just 40 minutes from Kerikeri. It was the country’s first permanent European settlement (including the first Europeanstyle school). The Christian mission was established in 1814 by Reverend Marsden and Ngāpuhi leader Ruatara. Both saw the benefits of two cultures living together. These days well-formed tracks with excellent interpretation lead to spectacular viewpoints over the Bay of Islands and down to the beach where the Marsden Cross memorial marks the place where our first Christmas Day service was held.
Otago – The proof of a pioneering nation
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Places telling our stories Discover the places that tell our stories. That’s what Tohu Whenua is encouraging New Zealanders to do over summer.
Tohu Whenua identifies some of Aotearoa New Zealand’s best heritage experiences, making it easy to find the places where you can walk in the footsteps of extraordinary and everyday Kiwis, and hear the stories of their deeds, struggles, triumphs and innovations that continue to shape our country. There are currently 24 Tohu Whenua in three regions, including Northland, Otago and the West Coast. The goal is to eventually roll out Tohu Whenua in all 15 regions of New Zealand. Each region has a unique story to tell.
Te Tai Tokerau Northland – The birth of a bicultural nation
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Otago’s Tohu Whenua places tell the stories of our pioneering spirit – the cornerstones of our economic and entrepreneurial livelihood. Born out of necessity, innovations and inventions abound. Take the Kawarau Suspension Bridge near Queenstown, made famous by AJ Hackett as the ‘original bungy jump’. In 1882, the bridge earned its designer Harry Higginson an international engineering award for its innovative strengthening solutions against destructive winds funneling through the iconic gorge. Then there’s Totara Estate, from where the first shipment of frozen mutton for England was sent in 1882, marking the start of an export industry that’s now worth billions.
Northland’s Tohu Whenua tell the stories of our beginnings. These are the places where Māori and European ancestors arrived, centuries apart, and where their identities were defined and our collective journey as New Zealanders began.
The ultimate testimony to ‘Kiwi ingenuity’ must be Hayes Engineering Works near Oturehua, the workshop and homestead of a rural couple who developed and marketed ingenious inventions for pastoral farming such as wire strainers, still used by farmers today.
Some of Northland’s Tohu Whenua are well-known favourites: Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga’s own Stone Store at Kororipo Heritage Park and Pompallier Mission and Printery in Kororāreka Russell, and the Waitangi Treaty Grounds which earlier this year opened a new museum, Te Rau Aroha.
Opulent Tohu Whenua such as Dunedin’s Larnach Castle, Olveston and Railway Station are evidence of the riches gained through the Otago gold rush and other entrepreneurial activities, and the bounty of wool and grain in the case of Oamaru’s beautifully restored Victorian Precinct.
1: Kororipo Heritage Park in Northland, with the Stone Store and Kemp House in view.
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CREDIT: NORTHLAND INC
2: The Waitangi Treaty Grounds, steeped in heritage and history. CREDIT: WAITANGI TREATY GROUNDS
3: The charm of Arrowtown. CREDIT: NICOLE KUNZMANN
4: Olveston in Dunedin. CREDIT: NICK BEALE 5: Hard to beat views from the Denniston Plateau. CREDIT: CLAUDIA BABIRAT
6: Larnach Castle is a standout attraction on the Otago Peninsula. CREDIT: LARNACH CASTLE
Most of these Tohu Whenua are located on the Central Otago Discovery Route, which connects Queenstown with Dunedin via SH85.
Te Tai Poutini West Coast – The rise of a resourceful nation The West Coast’s Tohu Whenua reflect stories of hardships endured for our country’s most prized resources. A region known for its incredible beauty and rich bounty, these are places where limits were tested and rewarded.
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country’s most tragic workplace disaster, and Denniston, once a town of extremes that sat at the top of a steep incline railway, are Tohu Whenua that tell the stories of families whose incredible grit defines West Coasters to this day. For a full list of Tohu Whenua visit www. tohuwhenua.nz, pick up a regional Tohu Whenua brochure from your i-site, or follow us on social media @tohuwhenua.
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The programme is a partnership between Manatū Taonga Ministry for Culture and Heritage, Department of Conservation Te Papa Atawhai and Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga, with support from the Ministry of Business, Innovation and Employment Hīkina Whakatutuki and Te Puni Kokiri Ministry of Māori Development. n
Writer: Claudia Babirat
Māori came here in search of pounamu, used for weapons, tools and personal ornaments. New Zealand’s ‘pounamu capital’ Hokitika embraces the story of a battle of control for the pounamu source. Today Poutini Ngāi Tahu honour their role as rangatira, carvers and traders of this revered stone. Gold was what first attracted Europeans to the West Coast. Nicknamed Quartzopolis, Reefton was the centre of commerce that grew from 1870s gold-bearing quartz mining, and today retains its authentic charm with its original School of Mines building, old banks, churches and courthouse. Renowned for being the first place in the southern hemisphere to have commercial electric lighting in 1888, a stop in Reefton should include an overnight stay to see the main street Broadway lit by heritage-style lamps. The West Coast’s other precious resource was coal. Both Brunner Mine, the site of the 6
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Real time conservation at Māngungu Mission Conservation of one of the oldest buildings cared for by Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga is underway – and visitors are being invited in to experience this unique project this summer. Work on Māngungu Mission in the Hokianga has begun with a focus on the building’s historic wallpapers, reflecting different periods in its past.
on 12 February 1840 – are also part of the project, which aims to preserve the original mission settlement underground.
“You get a sense of how different the house must have felt,” says Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga Hokianga Properties Lead, Alex Bell.
“Although land on the site has been ploughed over the years, an incredible amount of archaeological features can still be preserved – especially with buildings or rubbish pits that have a deep footprint,” says Alex.
“There’s the contrast of these exposed pit-sawn native timbers with some of the vibrant colours and designs of these 19th century wallpaper remnants.
“Both Māngungu and Te Waimate Missions are Tohu Whenua and, as early bicultural towns, have the opportunity to reveal important parts of our national story.”
“It’s about conserving the materials – but also the experience, the smells, the views, and the ambience of the place.”
Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga collections – including journals, letters, newspapers, prints and books – help personalise the places with stories of grief, anger, sadness, frustration and happiness; and provide the opportunity to connect people’s lives with collection objects.
Archaeological features relating to Māngungu Mission – the site of the third and largest signing of the Treaty of Waitangi
Sustainability is also top of mind. “These beautiful buildings are made from kauri on a harbour whose hills were once flanked with kauri forests. Conservation is not only about preserving the building but also the material that will become increasingly rare.” Staff find, record and conserve unique elements of the site using “good oldfashioned hands-on manual labour”. Old-school techniques – like stereoscopic images with a modern adaptation – are being used to create virtual spaces, along with ‘CSI’ UV light technology to identify faint, unrecorded 19th century writing on the timbers. “It’s a 181-year-old house, and we want to ensure that people working on it when it’s 281 years old know what we did and why,” says Alex. Cyclists on the Twin Coast Cycle Trail – which runs from the Bay of Islands to Māngungu Mission – have already enjoyed seeing the conservation work as part of their visitor experience; and others can too this summer. It’s a great chance to learn about New Zealand but also the work of Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga. n
Writer: John O’Hare
ABOVE: Māngungu Mission in the Hokianga. CREDIT: GRANT SHEEHAN/HERITAGE NEW ZEALAND POUHERE TAONGA
LEFT: Conservator Rose Evans of Object Lab working on a wall of samples at Māngungu Mission. CREDIT: HERITAGE NEW ZEALAND POUHERE TAONGA
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Heritage holiday getaways If you’re planning a summer getaway in Auckland or the Coromandel, or simply find yourself road-tripping your way along our stunning scenic roads, here are some Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga gems to check out: 1
1. Alberton
3. Ewelme Cottage
Nestled on the lower slopes of Mount Albert lies Alberton – a romantic Indian architectural inspired house built for Allan Kerr Taylor in 1863 as the centre for the family’s original 500 acre farm. With an extensive collection of family items and sprawling heritage garden, a tour of Alberton’s 18 rooms offers a unique heritage experience. Over the summer, Alberton plays host to a number of exciting summer events. The Alberton Market Day on the second Sunday of the month, from 10am to 2pm (starting November with a break in January) is a summer ‘must do’ in Auckland.
When Vicesimus Lush, the vicar of Howick, wanted his eldest sons to have an education at the Church of England Grammar School in Parnell his solution was to build Ewelme. Situated just off Parnell Road at 14 Ayr Street, this delightful yet modest cottage and garden reflects the restraint and standards of what life was like in the Victorian era for a busy ecclesiastic family. The house is full of treasures collected by the original family and their ancestors. Bring a picnic to enjoy in the beautiful cottage garden and listen to the enchanting sound of tui living in the historic trees surrounding the lawn.
2. Highwic After a quick exit off the southern motorway at Gillies Avenue and up the spectacular tree-lined driveway is Highwic. Located a stone’s throw from Auckland’s premier shopping district of Newmarket, Highwic is set in a tranquil setting. A visit opens the door to life in the colonial ‘boom and bust’ period of Auckland and to the family of Alfred Buckland. Upcoming events and features include the Highwic Christmas Shop, which is open until 23 December, and Highwic’s Christmas Garden Party on Sunday 6 December. The party is a fun day out for all the family with live music, a café and bar, craft, book and plant stalls, and variety of activities for children.
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4. Thames School of Mines Located on the site of a Māori urupā (burial ground), fascinating Māori, industrial and geological history converge at one of New Zealand’s largest and best-preserved mining schools in the heart of the Hauraki gold fields. The Mineralogical Museum houses a comprehensive collection of minerals and fossils from New Zealand and abroad. Guided tours are available at the Mining School and Mineralogical Museum, as well as gold panning, by appointment.
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For more details on these places please visit www.heritage.org.nz n
Writer: Antony Phillips
ALL IMAGES BY GRANT SHEEHAN/HERITAGE NEW ZEALAND POUHERE TAONGA
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SOUTH ISL AND
So much to see and do in the South Majestic scenery matched by heritage hotspots – the South Island has it all. This summer is as good a time as any to spend time checking these Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga properties out. 1: Fyffe House In a stunning seaside setting, Fyffe House is Kaikōura’s oldest surviving building and the last remnant of a pioneer whaling station established in 1842. In addition to touring the house and gift shop, the surrounding landscape provides a charming place for an amble. In 1859, this property was the venue for the Kaikōura Deed signing between Ngāi Tahu and the Crown. Visitors will also discover interesting clues to past activities at this site; a striking carving, Pou Tangaroa, recounts stories relating to the area’s Māori history.
2: Kate Sheppard House This is the former home of suffrage pioneer, Kate Sheppard and husband Walter. It was the site where suffragist supporters spent much time working towards New Zealand becoming the first self-governing country in the world to grant women the vote. Suffragists gathered here and organised the petition before it was presented to Parliament in 1893. The house, at 83 Clyde
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Road, Ilam, Christchurch, was acquired last year by Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga and is open for tours.
3: Lyttelton Timeball Station Before radio communication, visual symbols were important features of any port and necessary for communication between ship and shore. From 1876 to 1934 a ball dropped from its mast on its stone tower, signalling the time to ships in Lyttelton Harbour. The Timeball Station was damaged significantly by the Canterbury earthquakes, suffering irreparably from the second earthquake in February 2011. Thanks to key donors and a supportive community, the Timeball tower was rebuilt and the Timeball again drops daily.
4: Totara Estate A historic farm situated in the beautiful North Otago countryside, Totara Estate played a significant role in the establishment of the frozen meat export market from
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New Zealand. After a development in steam-powered freezing technology, the first shipment of frozen mutton made the three-month journey from New Zealand to England in 1882. Visitors are welcome to take a guided or self-guided tour through the beautifully restored farm buildings and learn about the place and people associated with this typical Victorian-era farm. A daily guided tour and tea is available at 10am or by arrangement. Group tours are welcomed by arrangement.
5: Clarks Mill An important industrial landmark in beautiful North Otago, this historic flour mill houses fascinating working machinery inside striking stone and timber buildings. Located just 12km south of Oamaru, knowledgeable hosts are on hand to explain the mill’s working history, historic photographs and other interpretive displays. Tours are available every Sunday afternoon and Thursday morning to April, with the
Kaikōura
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Christchurch
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Queenstown
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Dunedin Invercargill
IMAGE CREDITS 1, 4-7: GRANT SHEEHAN/ HERITAGE NEW ZEALAND POUHERE TAONGA
2: Kate Sheppard House CHRIS HOOPMANN 3: Timeball Station ROBYN BURGESS/HERITAGE NEW ZEALAND POUHERE TAONGA
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machinery working on the last Sunday of the month. Join us for our special open days where Clarks Mill Comes Alive on the last Sunday of January, February and March.
6: Ophir Post Office
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The advent of digital communications has largely retired much of the telegraph services of old but the Ophir Post office in Central Otago, the longest continual postal service in New Zealand, is a post shop with a difference. Built in 1886 in a style reflecting the importance of government services in isolated communities, the building is notable for the use of unworked schist and its concrete pillars and arches. The interior remains largely unchanged with all original features. In addition to enjoying the garden and having a peek into the jailhouse, visitors can enjoy posting a letter franked with the original VR (Victoria Regina) stamp.
7: Hayes Engineering Works and Homestead Marvel at the workshop and homestead of Ernest and Hannah Hayes, 19th century pioneers whose resourcefulness, skill and determination define the spirit of ‘Kiwi ingenuity’. In a picturesque Central Otago setting, the workshop can be explored with its labyrinth of overhead shafts, belts and pulleys driving various lathes, drills and saws. The commanding homestead tells the story of this remarkable family and offers up its own pieces of ingenuity to discover. A popular rest stop on the Otago Central Rail Trail, visitors can enjoy guided and selfguided tours along with the delightful gift store and café. For more information on these properties, including opening times, please visit www. heritage.org.nz n
Writer: Antony Phillips 7
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FIORDL AND
1: Sarah Gallagher at Māmuku/ Indian Island. 2: James York, cultural advisor from Oraka Aparima runaka of Kai Tahu, with a baby seal at Luncheon Cove. 3: Filming at the site of New Zealand’s first brewery, at the mouth of the Cook River at Pickersgill Harbour in Tamatea/ Dusky Sound. Pictured, from left, the Toitū team, Peter Read, Chris Kwak, William McKee and Sean Brosnahan. 4: View of Patea/Doubtful Sound. ALL IMAGES HERITAGE NEW ZEALAND
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POUHERE TAONGA
Diary of a Tamatea/Dusky Sound adventure In July, Sarah Gallagher, Heritage Assessment Advisor for Otago/Southland, joined a team travelling around Tamatea/Dusky Sound, Fiordland, exploring historical sites and recording a docu-series for Toitū Otago Settlers Museum titled Furthest Frontier: Stories from Tamatea/Dusky Sound. The project developed as an unlikely result of the global turmoil created by the outbreak of the Coronavirus pandemic. Overseas-based Toitū projects were cancelled, and Te Anau-based Fiordland Expeditions accommodated the expedition at a generous rate. Team leader, William McKee from Toitū Otago Settlers Museum, noted, “Whereas a century ago the aim may have been to collect items to add to general collection, this time the team had a strict non-disturbance understanding. Take only pictures, leave only footprints.”
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The team was made up of four Toitū staff, two marine archaeologists (Dr Matthew Carter and Kurt Bennet, PhD candidate), James York, from Ōraka Aparima runaka as the cultural advisor, and Sarah. Her role was to photograph the sites, and update records on the Tamatea/Dusky Sound Historic Area. Just like Captain Cook, who kept a diary of his time in Tamatea/Dusky Sound, Sarah kept a record of her experiences. Here are some edited highlights:
Monday 20 July “We were the only people eating in the dining hall at the Manapōuri lakeside hotel. The electricity was flickering in and out as the rain lashed outside. We knew a bad southerly was coming. I felt pretty apprehensive as I get really seasick.”
Tuesday 21 July “We drove over the Wilmot Pass. In Doubtful Sound we boarded the Tutuko II. It was glorious on the water, like a black and white photo. It felt like we were sitting in the clouds, sailing amongst the mountains. Mid-afternoon, I found it really rough and was (unsurprisingly) unwell. We came into Tamatea/Dusky Sound via Breakneck Sound and the Acheron Passage, to cut off a bit of the horrible journey. We moored at Cascade Cove. As soon as we tied up, the guys put their wet suits on and went diving for crayfish and kina and Richard (our captain) got the fishing rods out. We feasted on crayfish several nights in a row. It made me appreciate what a haven it must have been for the early explorers who spent months at sea at the mercy of the elements.”
Wednesday 22 July
Friday 24 July
“We headed to Pickersgill Harbour, named after Richard Pickersgill, Cook’s lieutenant on his second voyage in 1773 on the HMS Resolution, where we visited Astronomer’s Cove, where William Wales, Cook’s astronomer, took the first accurate longitude measurements of New Zealand. There was a boardwalk at Astronomer’s Cove, but everywhere else involved bush bashing. It’s so wet, the ground is like a massive sponge. Cook’s Creek was close by where New Zealand’s first brewery was established, making beer from rimu and mānuka to prevent scurvy amongst Cook’s crew.
“We went to Māmuku/Indian Island, where Cook first encountered South Island Māori. It was the most exquisite place although rough getting there. There are some Māori archaeological sites – two stone-lined storage pits – sitting like mossy bathtubs up on the tree-lined headland.
“Luncheon Cove was stunning and a haven for seals. It was the site of the first shipbuilding yard and European house, from 1792, with the arrival of sealers. We didn’t have particularly accurate maps and were using Arch Site records and descriptions to identify places. Initially we missed the slipway but ended up in another place where we found the remains of a boat. It was a very exciting moment, and transpires that it likely dates to pre-1900.”
Thursday 23 July “More filming for the Toitū team while the rest of us travelled back to Luncheon Cove to conduct a proper survey of the boat we found yesterday. Matt recorded photos for photogrammetry; Kurt was taking measurements and calling out results for me to note on a marine archaeological survey form; all this during squalls of hail and visitations from an inquisitive baby seal.
and marveling at how organised and productive the team was. I’m really looking forward to seeing the series, it’s going to be a cracker.” n
“Next we went to Stop Island, where the sinking of the Waikari occurred in 1910, where more diving and filming was carried out by the team. Details of the trip back up the coast are best left unreported.”
Saturday 25 July “Back in the stillness of beautiful Doubtful Sound, we filmed at Macarcione’s Point and Bauza Island, some of the several places named during the Spanish exploration of Doubtful Sound in 1793 by Alessandro Malaspina. We also visited the tiny Seymour Island, named for Percy Seymour who lived there for a year. He was a school teacher who was researching a book about flora and fauna. “Back in Dunedin I’m missing sleeping on the boat, very grateful to have been invited to be part of this extraordinary experience,
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“Later we sailed to Facile Harbour, to take Matt and Kurt to the site of the Endeavour wreck from 1795, where 240 people were marooned. They were in their element – it was the first time a professional archaeological survey has been conducted of the site. “After lunch we sailed to Pigeon Island, the home of Richard Henry in 1894. He was a Conservator appointed to live in Tamatea/ Dusky Sound to help preserve the birdlife. All that remains is the chimney from his house, and his bird pens built of punga logs.” 4
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NORTHL AND
Exploring the Forgotten World Highway If you are planning to spend time in Taranaki over the coming holiday period and are thinking about possibly heading to the Ruapehu District, do consider taking the alternative highway out of Stratford.
1: The well-known Whangamōmona Hotel. CREDIT: 2015 WALGERT – CC BY-SA 2.0 FLICKR
2: The former Ōhura Prison. CREDIT: 2013 ITRAVELNZ® – CC BY 2.0 FLICKR
3: The Moki Tunnel. CREDIT: 2011 SEAMOOR – CC BY NC 2.0 FLICKR
4: Mount Damper Falls. CREDIT: 2013 ITRAVELNZ® – CC BY 2.0 FLICKR
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State Highway 43, which runs for 150km from Stratford to Taumarunui, is also known as the Forgotten World Highway, so named by the late David Walter, a well-known and highly respected farmer and Taranaki political leader, who sadly passed away in September. David Walter knew all its features as a longtime farmer in the Douglas area. Driving this highway can take up to three hours or more, depending on the number of stops you want to make. It passes through some rugged countryside and climbs four saddles between Stratford and the Tangarākau Gorge – Strathmore, Pohokua, Whangamōmona and the Tahora. There are lots of detours you can take to many interesting places, which are well documented in travel brochures. Heading east from Stratford, the highway runs through the ‘Republic of Whangamōmona’, located 45 minutes east
of Stratford. Local residents declared it a republic after their frustration with councils and a revision in district boundaries in 1989. The famous Republic Day is held biennually in January and is enjoyed by thousands of visitors. The pub in Whangamōmona is well worth a visit. The Forgotten World Highway passes through a number of early settlements – Toko, Douglas, Te Wera, Pohokura, Strathmore, Whangamōmona, Marco, Kohuratahi, Tahora and Tatū. Between 1901 and 1933 the Stratford to Ōkahukura railway line was built and many of the small settlements are left from those early railway days. Fourteen kilometres past Whangamōmona is the Moki Tunnel, also known as Hobbit’s Hole. It was one of five tunnels proposed by Joshua Morgan, a surveyor in the area in the 1890s, before his unfortunate death.
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The tunnel is considered a fine example of the unusual, but well-thought out, work completed by roading engineers and surveyors in early New Zealand. It is widely recognised as one of Taranaki’s most remote tourist attractions. Near one end of the Moki Tunnel is the turnoff for the Mount Damper Falls, the fourth-highest in the North Island. Past the other end of the tunnel is the Tangarākau Gorge, with impressive walls just under 60m high. In the middle of the gorge, at the Tangarākau River Bridge, you will come across the grave of Joshua Morgan. Rugged and remote countryside stood between Morgan and getting medical assistance, and he died of suspected peritonitis in 1893. He was buried where he died, working to link Stratford to Taumarunui. Approximately 12km of highway road through the Tangarākau Gorge is unsealed. This makes SH43 the only state highway that still has an unsealed section.
Heading further north, and detouring up to 10km off the highway, is the settlement of Ōhura, a former coal mining town. Mining was a key industry in Ōhura from the 1930s until the state-owned mines closed in the early 1970s. The Ōhura Prison was built on the site of a miners’ hostel in 1972 but it was closed in 2005. Many features remain to be seen as you get closer to Taumarunui. Nevin’s Lookout is one, a short walk up a hill through some farmland for great views to the King Country, and where on a good day you can see the three mountains, Ruapehu, Ngāuruhoe and Tongariro. There are lots of stopping places for views and photos along this picturesque highway as you drive to the end of the Forgotten World Highway at Taumarunui.
The Whangamōmona Hotel is 88km from Taumarunui and is currently the only place open all year round where you can buy food and drinks on this highway. Lauren’s Lavender Farm, 15km from Taumarunui, another favourite stopping point, has a café. Cell phone coverage is almost non-existent, but climbing to a high point can assist with communication. As one traveller posted on social media, whoever came up with the name the Forgotten World Highway was bang on, because that’s how it feels, and has spectacular views. David Walter would be looking down smiling at his astute choice of name. n
Writers: David Watt and Ron Lambert
There are a few travel tips as you plan your journey. There are no petrol stations on the highway, so fill up in Stratford before heading east. Although the journey is only 150km, it is not a road to negotiate in a hurry, so take your time.
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SUPPORTER SPOTLIGHT
Membership – the perfect gift! Give yourself or someone you love a piece of history this Christmas. A Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga membership is packed with great benefits, is amazing value for money and helps protect heritage at the same time. What more could you ask! Membership starts from just $50 and includes: • Free admission to our 44 properties nationwide; from the earliest historic places of the Far North to the farming heritage of the Deep South.
JOIN NOW
• A free subscription to the award-winning Heritage New Zealand magazine – a quarterly, full colour publication. • Automatic access to the Members Club series of member-only events, behindthe-scenes tours, webinars and exclusive digital content – delivered each month straight to your inbox. • 10% off merchandise at our properties and from our online shop (shop.heritage.org.nz). • Free, or reduced, admission to hundreds of heritage properties overseas, including the global National Trust movement. • Great discounts at cultural attractions (like the New Zealand Symphony Orchestra), domestic and overseas travel, accommodation, tourist hotspots and retail outlets like Resene Paints.
And the best bit? Knowing your membership directly helps to protect heritage. Buy one for yourself or gift a membership today and make someone you care about truly happy with the benefits of membership. Simply scan the QR code above, visit heritage.org.nz or contact our Membership team at membership@heritage.org.nz n ABOVE: An open day held at Ruatuna, Northland. CREDIT: HERITAGE NEW ZEALAND POUHERE TAONGA
LEFT ABOVE: The award winning Heritage New Zealand magazine, free when you join. LEFT BELOW: Become a member and receive a members-only newsletter each month
Published by Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga, Heritage Quarterly keeps you up-to-date with heritage work from around New Zealand. For more information or to subscribe, write to PO Box 2629, Wellington 6140 or contact the Editor, phone: 04 470 8066 or email: jdouglas@heritage.org.nz. ISSN 2324-4267 (Print) ISSN 2324-4275 (Online).
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