Fashion 2010

Page 1



INTRODUCTION



DR. DAVID LAWRENCE HEAD OF THREE-DIMENSIONAL DESIGN

An extraordinary feature of our Fashion department in the School of Three-dimensional Design at Kingston University is their ability to transform lines, paper, threads and passion into the breathtaking range of design projects which they present to you here. All it takes - and it’s a big ‘all’ of course is a cohort of fabulously energetic students, devoted and talented staff, the leadership of course director Elinor Renfrew and the magic and trust that it will all work out by the time of the show. And here we are to celebrate these achievements. This is the first year in which we have benefitted from new staff members in the permanent team, and the second year in which we have made excellent use of our state-of-the-art digital knitwear facilities. Our colleagues, be they pattern cutters, designers, photographers, illustrators or technicians, all bring a special fusion of ideas and skills to enhance the quality of Fashion at Kingston. This excellence and diversity is reflected in the recently launched MA Fashion programme, and the forthcoming MA Fashion Journalism programme. Undoubtedly further outstanding work will follow. The school of Three-dimensional Design, of which Fashion is a part, is proud to educate students across the design spectrum from interiors to product design, each discipline having a growing international reputation for quality. Today, we especially honour the work of our Fashion graduates. Well done everyone, you’ve made it!



Elinor Renfrew Course Director

Welcome to the Kingston BA Fashion Show 2010. We are delighted to be back at GFW after the numerous shortlisted graduates in every category from Kingston last year. Kingston won the Draper’s Fashion Illustration Award for the Colleges’ portfolio at the British Fashion Council graduate preview day this year. Following the BFC preview day last year 3 of our graduates were invited to show at Milan Fashion Week for the first time. This year all applicants to the Royal College of Art have been offered places across Womenswear, Menswear, Women’s and Men’s knitwear. We are most grateful again this year to our longstanding main sponsor Dewhirst who have continued to support the Kingston Fashion Show. Other main sponsors Brooks Brothers continue to support our Fashion Show and more importantly the paid internships for 2nd year students in New York over the summer vacation. In addition students who win these covetable internships have support and sponsorship of accessories for their final collections. Banana Republic have become a main sponsor and also support paid internships for 2nd year students who gain a valuable international experience in the US. One of our new UK sponsors John Smedley offers a Post Graduate scholarship to an outstanding knitwear graduate and has continued the employment of last year’s successful graduate. French Connection and Topman also continue to offer exclusive sponsored projects including store visits and valuable input from their design teams and placements to winning

students between 2nd and 3rd year of the course. Smith & Pye support our Professional Practice module and Arts Thread who work closely with Kingston on portfolio promotion and feature our graduates’ portfolios on line and in their international magazine. A special thank you to Stephen Kane and Cucina for providing the reception again this year. I would especially like to thank the Fashion Staff team at Kingston who continue to inspire, direct and meet the students’ expectations. Their dedication continues to place Kingston fashion students amongst the most creative and professional students in the world. Finally I would like to mention that without the three years support from our graduates’ families and friends this event would not be possible.



MENS KNITWEAR


ZAC MARSHALL Archaeologists. Centuries after the collapse of industrialisation a small race emerges in the post human landscape. Childlike and curious they begin to act as archaeologists recreating clothing from the few remaining images left behind, that act as clues to an ideal civilisation. They create clothing with no idea of how it existed or how it was really created, they investigate, dissect, and make mistakes. Some existing garments have been dug up, these act as sacred artefacts, they cannot be cut into, but their functionality makes them too valuable not to use, instead they are built on, added to and adapted. sponsors: brokes brothers

+44 (0) 7983332514

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SARAH SHUTTLEWORTH “A dreamer is one who can only find his way by moonlight and his punishment is that he sees the dawn before the rest of the world.� Communication is key to passing on knowledge, information and experiences. In this future thinking menswear collection technology, form and traditional process collide. Looking back from our current digital age to its beginnings in analogue Morse code. Moving from dark into light with photosensitive ink and reflective fabric, a sense of adventure, detailing and authenticity added with a parachute. Textured knit and clean tailoring with practical backpacks and socks. sponsors: eschler

+44 (0) 7791728023

s.j.shuttleworth@googlemail.com


DAVID STONEMAN-MERRET The elderly. The interest in this subject has developed from a love and admiration for the older generation, on a general and personal level, finding it important to look at their sense of elegance, timeless style and how and why they choose to dress in the combinations they do. Looking at a disease affecting the elderly, Dementia, for styling and colour references, a simple, yet mixed silhouette has developed combining both day and night wear throughout. This silhouette includes digitalised wallpaper and floral images taken from around the home, using these as accents in both print and knit patterns.

+44 (0) 7595170435

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MENSWEAR


NICOLA COLLINS The amalgamation of traditional Middle Eastern Menswear and the functionality of day-to-day work wear is the focal point of my collection. The relationship between tradition in the Middle Eastern dress and functionality has always been entwined; harsh desert conditions demand that clothing must be efficient in order to protect the body. My starting point to this collection was the iconic Dishdasha, otherwise known as a Thawb, I investigated its cut, fabric and above all its purpose. Its similarities with overalls and protective clothing have excited my designing process and silhouette. It is a celebration of tradition in bright oranges with muted purple silk, which sits over creams and dusty orange cottons and linens.

+44 (0) 7894050171

nicola.collins@live.com


ZAPHILINE HOUETO Complete variations. The evolution of a single idea. Re-evaluating the idea of traditional menswear, by analysing this single idea I was able to consider how far aesthetically it could be transformed but still maintaining recognisable traditional elements. Using the process of Sol Lewitt’s variations of incomplete cubes, I was able to deploy different variations of a single idea, which enabled an evolving variation of one composition. This particular process enabled me to analyse a specific shape inspired by Robert Morris felted installations that then became the silhouette idea of the whole collection.

+44 (0) 7944216585

zaphiline _houeto @hotmail .com


EMILY MANN “Glen Denney prowled the campsite and the big walls quietly for a full decade, camera in hand, capturing our wild adventures and secret moments�. (Roper, S 2007) Photography by Glenn Denney captured the freedom, movement and excitement of a place called Yosemite, which is home for extreme climbers, but back in the sixties is when the true danger was being liberated. Within a safety-obsessed world, I looked at men who limit themselves on safety, a way to escape, through sport and clothing. Denney shows this thrill of freedom that rock climbing gives and my clothing explores the wild man within. sponsors: kenneth mackenzie and 6876

+44 (0) 7988986398

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KELLY PEARSON Boxing Clever. Taking inspiration from within the four walls of the training gym and inside the ring, I focus of the defining characteristics of any boxing associated garments, and consider them in an exaggerated state. I explore the mechanics and ergonomics appropriated from boxing training, and translate them into interpretative garments. I use sweatshirt and tracksuit jerseys with waterproof fabrics, considering the clothes’ functional purpose of keeping the wearer sweating from training. Choosing a colour palette straight from the aesthetics of a boxing gym; the dirty beiges, greys, faded blues with accents of vibrant burgundy and yellow create authenticity yet light heartedness.

+44 (0) 7985432128

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WOMENS KNITWEAR


nicole bradshaw The collection is a platform for luxury and desirability. Designed for the professional urban woman who wants to look effortless and feel ultra empowering. The clothes are an investment, a second skin. Taking Francis Bacon and Egon Shiele’s paintings as inspiration in particular, the way they portray skin, the collection mirrors careful observations of colour, texture and tone within their work. The characteristics of skin are present within the collection; translucent silicone rubber a sharp reference to plastic surgery. Chunky mohair mixed with shimmering lux knits, crepe silks, fur and rich leathers embody the luxurious textures, complexions, and qualities that skin possesses. Skin is priceless, romantic and sensual. Beyond luxury and of course necessity. sponsors: saga mink, saga fox and saga finn raccoon

+44 (0) 7970071132

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lucy hammond I love knitting I’m not shitting! My collection is influenced by 1950’s silhouettes with shape and volume induced at the back of the garments, keeping the front tight to the body. I have added a decorative theme with bows cut and knitted into the patterns inspired by a collection from Sonya Rykiel. I wanted to create a bright, lively, fun collection using oranges, reds, yellows and hot pinks. For the knit I am exploring different combinations of stripes, ladders and chevrons, layered with jewellery and sequins, combining each garment with different coloured trims, bow shaped chevrons and hand-knitted accessories.

+44 (0) 7931957003

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sophie hudspith Repaired beyond the original passed down the generations, silhouettes of the past, life of the future. Inspired by Kurdish nomadic clothing, Middle Eastern peasant pattern cutting of straight lines, creating volume, curves and beautiful detailed layers. Colour blocked luxury silk knitwear of faded golds, teal greens and rose melangé. Lace hole details, fine embroidery, and macramé accessories. Margeila’s faceless Russian dolls visually directs the clean, modern structures to make this collection ready for the city woman. Featuring mantles that serve as a cape coat, or giant veils of pure white moleskin. “Living better, with less, that lasts longer,” -Dieter Rams

+44 (0) 789430260

sophiehudspith @hotmail .com


naama rietti Animalistic Interventions. ‘’It was as if it had a life of its own, just waiting to be born. It took on structure, form…it was about nature, and nature has its own logic. My body started to create art out of its own internal rhythms.’’ Mastalias’ book on Dreadlocks. My journey began with this notion. Raw, natural and organic, an allowance of freedom without restraint has driven my process. Sensual and erotic; animalistic interventions plait, knot and twist their way into sculptural bodily forms. A mixture of luxurious leathers, silks and lustrous animal fibres layer the body celebrating the female form and it’s seductive endowment.

+44 (0) 7775901274

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WOMENSWEAR


Melenia Alexandraki- Livaditi This collection plays with the ideas of vulnerability and protection and looks how one term completes the other. There is some strength in vulnerability and vice versa. At your most vulnerable you can be at your strongest, and at your strongest you can be most vulnerable. Although this collection is examining these concepts, it has nothing to do with weakness. It is more about courage. The courage to open up yourself into everyday life situations, however disturbing those might be and the courage to live by your own rules. So here, we are talking about vulnerability of a hero. The hero that anyone of us can be every single day.

+44 (0) 7824338222

melenial@gmail.com


Therese Beaini Hitchcock’s The Birds forms the starting point of my collection; Due to its dark and disturbing nature, combined with the way the women featured were styled. The clothes draw on the old school glamour of vintage patterns. Fitted pencil skirts, cropped jackets and high-waisted cigarette pants, all of which would suit a modern-day Hitchcock heroine. The fabrication of the garments modernise the collection, while bird’s wings in flight have formed the basis of print ideas and colour. Accessories are a key element. Huge, hatbox style handbags, cropped leather gloves and leather covered hats, put into period sobriety.

+44 (0) 7792016369

t_beaini @hotmail .co.uk


Lauren Bedford-Stockwell Youthful, naive and without guidance we watch a young girl rebel against the isolated atmosphere of Versailles. The collection takes inspiration from Sophia Coppola’s 2007 adaptation of Marie Antoinette, a modern interpretation of the life of France’s legendary Queen. Antoinette betrothed to King Louis XVI at a tender age enters into the opulent world of the court which is steeped in conspiracy and scandal. Fast forward where the collection captures the spirit of today’s young girl’s coming of age. We join her on her journey as she grows up and falls in love.

+44 (0) 7957383924

laurenbedfordstockwell @hotmail .com


Jemima Beulah The collection is innovative yet informed by traditional processes of garment construction and fabric production. Referencing modern architecture and Anish Kapoor’s minimalist artwork, modern simplistic silhouette forms and constructional innovations have been developed, acting as a platform displaying high luxurious textural cloth. Traditional British mills that achieve richness of texture and impeccable quality have produced these cloths. By selecting a consistent colour palette the attention is concentrated on texture, an aspect influenced by the artwork of Yves Klein. The collection will be desired for construction quality and materials used, as well as ease of wearability.

+44 (0) 7864975539

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Sarah Blakeney How can scattered, dispersed memories be captured, how can they be put back together before the eyes of others? Should it be done at all or does remembering at the same time mean the deliberate cancellation or destruction of what once was? Andro Wekua’s pictures, drawings and installations conjure up a past of which we know nothing more precise than the...Dieter Schwarz. The work of Ernest Trova, Andro Wekua and Andy Warhol have all been sources of inspiration for this collection. I have used a combination of sketching, photography and 3 dimensional experimentation to develop my work towards the final result.

+44 (0) 7912557116

sarahblakeney @hotmail .co.uk


ISABELLA CHOI This 2011A/W collection is about investigating a new identity through experimentation of the collective information from my surroundings. I believe that people’s lives are often formed by repeated routines. Although we may be doing similar things every day, we could still progress everyday so life on day one will be different to life in day 365. In my final collection I wanted to capture these differences in the progression of everyday life into the inspiration of shape, colour and silhouette.

+44 (0) 7886342885

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Sophie Clark Hayling Island; ‘Paddler’s Paradise’. A six mile squared island off the south coast of England. The perfect place for a traditional day trip to the sea, a family summer holiday or a much needed escape. Its own little world, where no late night venues exist. Its own funfair and a miniature railway that runs across the seafront. A feeling of eccentricity from local islanders is apparent. Bustling water sports on the horizon provide a modern aspect to this unashamedly quirky, yet loveable place. Encompassed by tranquil ocean waves, natural elegant beauty is never far from view. Simple bliss is momentarily acquired.

+44 (0) 7545888744

sophie_clark@live.com


Harriet De Roeper The Lord of the Flies, a physical manifestation of animal urges and evil that existed within the boys. An evil that William Golding believed exists within all of us. Only through rules and civilization may we attempt the taming of this human force, however if temptation is the devil, there is no taming a woman‌ Following a plane crash during the War, a group of British schoolboys find themselves stranded on an island with no adult survivors. Left far from modern civilization, these well-educated children regress into a primitive state. Imaginations begin to run riot as democracy and order within the group descends into savagery. The rules of society have collapsed into chaos. sponsors: dr. martins

+44 (0) 7872522909

hderoeper@googlemail.com


Raymond Ding My final collection, returns to the very beginning, trying to learn the human body, muscle distribution, irregular skeleton and blood vessels. Inspired by the diverse art works from artists Francis Bacon, Danny Treacy, Man Ray and Andrew Carnie the colour palette is mainly developed from the image that has been used in medical-specific blood circulation diagram, tones of brown, orange, red, blue, turquoise, white and black all appear in it. Fabrics used focus on breaking the traditional boundaries, trying to mix and match different fabrics in this collection.

+44 (0) 7704572801

qingle _ding@hotmail .com


Faye Donnelly Powerful. Sexy. Dangerous. Her power lies in the way the fabric hugs her body. A neckline purposefully plunging. A dress torn to her thigh. A waist seductively sculpted. All are presented rather demurely, but there is no doubt that danger is lurking on the inside. Prowling through the shadows, a single flash of canary yellow catches your eye as it reflects in the shimmer of the rain soaked streets. The hairs on the back of your neck prickle. The only protection she needs as she plunges herself into the night is her black leather trench coat.

+44 (0) 7988960443

fay e d o n n e l ly @ h o t m a i l . c o m


Alice Early ‘Preserving the craft’. A revived sense of tradition, nostalgia and culture will see craftsmanship as an integrated part of design. Inspired by the deconstruction of a Tailcoat, design was informed by the raw materials, cut, stitch detail and finishing techniques, to the hidden structures found inside the coat vital to support the outer shell. The body of traditional handwork to compose the garment brought to the forefront for contemporary design. Preserving shape and silhouette has been referenced through, the analysis of Couture and the work of Antony Gormley. Both engage in sculpting to generate a defined volume and a protective shell between the self and the environment. sponsors: nicholas kirkwood

+44 (0) 7791424884

a l i c e a r ly @ g o o g l e m a i l . c o m


Emma EvAns Undressing is something we all do to ourselves and to others. It’s a natural human act whether it be as a part of a daily routine, a job requirement or a sexual act, we all engage in undressing daily. The three familiar stages of undress are, dressed, semi-dressed and undressed. I have chosen to look at all the stages of undress. My collection foundations were images from a series of photo shoots I conducted with both sexes, undressing themselves and each other. I want women to feel sexy in my clothes as they do when in a state of undress.

+44 (0) 7512754507

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Jenny Ho A summer’s day. How ordinary, my table becomes a chair and now I am sitting on the ceiling. It should all make sense. The peace is on my face, the pieces in my face. I can’t see, clear as crystal. It should all make sense. Oh look, my fingertips are combining together and now the cup of coffee I drank this morning is joining to my elbow. I throw a pillow, it cracks and I watch its segments sink into the wall. It should all make sense. This is a place where I can only enter; this is a place where my memories and imagination are merging together.

+44 (0) 7915532704

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Eileen Hsu A mended wall with squared woods and the rows of makeshift shelters tells the story of human nature that comfort us everything could be fixed. She’s the optimist, who lives within this fragile world. She looks confident and under control in the clean and chic shape. With the pleats, she looks precise. With the squared panels but fitted shape, she looks poised but yet delicate inside. The velvet and suede in natural colours with the hint of yellow and green add the feel of roughness but still soft and comforting.

+44 (0) 7942600031

eileen _hsu@hotmail .com


Daniel MICHAEL Hubbard Collection No. 1. The collection is a comprehensive study into traditional, detail-orientated outerwear, hinting towards the essence of British heritage. Interjected with young eccentricity and military inflection, resulting in unique detailing, still having roots in the integrity of outerwear. Proportion, scale and volume have been extracted from anatomical drawings, developed to create shapes that show the meandering of human form to excess. The simple, directional colour palette of camel, navy, burnt sienna, plum and tan leather enhance an eccentricity with a grace, further accentuated by luxury fabrication. There is a subtle aggressiveness in the mood, showing a strictness and austerity with a strong visual statement coming through the silhouette and detailing. sponsors: houlton carr, highways bridlingston

+44 (0) 7846379527

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Charlotte Hudson This sports inspired collection for SS11 focuses on fun, femininity and functionality in pieces that are luxurious in design, detail and fabrication. Jackets have a relaxed silhouette with hooded tops. Cowl necks are key, front and back, juxtaposed by tighter trousers and shorts to accentuate the female figure. Sportswear detailing is incorporated in garments with knitted viscose sports stripes, contrast piping and knitted rib edging. These details contrast with the muted colour palette of navy blue and grey shades with fuchsia pink. Paneling plays a significant role in the collection and is enhanced with contrasting fabrics and top stitched seaming.

+44 (0) 7821573860

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JI YOUNG HWANG “Are you still innocence?” The Great Gatsby. Obsessed with love, Gatsby earns money in a deceitful way to win Daisy’s heart. But Gatsby was really innocent and passionate about Daisy. Unfortunately, that ended in tragedy. I think Gatsby was idealistic. It was love at first sight after meeting Daisy for the first time. However a love which could never come true due to their different backgrounds. Gatsby still dreamed on and believed their love could work. I was inspired by the way he dreams into reality others must have thought this the love was not something beautiful yet. The time when people were losing their innocence, rather enjoying enjoyment and luxury. How unfortunate, let’s go back to the 1920’s through this collection.

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Kalina Blajeva Lightness; Street wear inspired from dynamic, adrenalin, fluid, fast discipline like motorcycling, skiing and swimming. The collection includes outfits conceived for city adventures. All of the 6 looks are inspired and based on a different type of sports jackets protecting from wind and rain like the motorcycle jacket and rain coat. The outwear sets out to explore a dynamic world with nylon, latex and organza ultra light jackets, as well as detailed tights and miniskirts, whilst chosen tones and moods recall childhood atmospheres and bring positivity and freshness. Avant-garde research is focused on natural, technical, elegant and performing fabrics. The collection is inspired from youthful cultures and sports and it’s both refreshing and elegant.

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NICKY KEECH Perceptions of Iran are quite different to perceptions of Persia. Why should a change of name make such a difference? Comparing aspects of Persian history and also reflecting on modern day Iran, I will consider clothing, buildings, artwork and landscapes. Persia’s opulent interiors and exteriors of buildings, lend influence for textile techniques such as Devore, to represent the detail. Elements of loose tailoring from Iranian clothing, combined with draping, layering, wrapping, twisting and pleating influenced from Persian clothing will be evident throughout the collection. Old Persian artworks along with modern photographs of the Iranian desert have inspired colours and fabric choices.

+44 (0) 7796833485

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HYANG SOOK KIM Similar person, different feeling, different person but similar feeling Talk of twins, needless to say that we almost instantly recognize them with a bit of awesomeness. The twins often give out a mischievous looking smile and we are left with absolute no idea. Yes, we have always marveled at the similarities and the characteristics of twins and it is obvious we perceive them to have the same looks, figure and even as far as having the same personality. Un-identical twins possess completely different appearances, looks and figure, their own unique identity. I have looked at three characteristics of twins, different body shape, different feeling, mainly colour, and the same appearance but different character. Therefore, comparing the similarities and different features, I have used military fashion to create a new image, whilst translating them innovatively with fashion.

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Misung KOH The Story of Bohemian. You have to love unequivocally. You have to be direct with your emotions. You have to style up your image/ you have to modernize the look. You have to be creative, be yourself and enjoy. You have to be involved and enjoy it to the full; bring in your own creativity and develop your style. You have to recognize your special background. Your story, the story of a Bohemian. You have to recreate it, take it to another level. Perfection and attention to detail.

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KIT NA KWOK The theme of this collection is Collage. This will be combining partly a section of a range of different garments, as to reform the new shape and details for a new garment. The garments would also be turned upside down, overlap, rotate, inside out and cut up to form parts or the whole of the new garments. As well as details such as seams, pockets and buttons from one garment to another garment. Even the garment to flatten it and redo it. However, the theme of “Collage� remains the same and it is going to run through the whole collection.

+44 (0) 7756481529

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ANGELA LAI My topic of this collection is Female. This reminds me the concept of 五 行 from China, which is called ‘the five elements’ in English. It is used in the ancient Chinese cosmology. The concept of the five elements is also applied in Chinese medical science. They are metal, wood, water, fire and earth. These five elements not only mean the substance but also used for describing interaction and relationship. The elements describe two cycles of interactions between the phases. They are a generating or creation cycle and an overcoming or destruction cycle. Each of them present different features and characteristic, states of development, colour and emotion and it is believed that the destiny and personality of each person is formed by these five elements.

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MELISSA LAU The Unseen Mind: Spring/Summer 2011. A dream, which is a succession of images from one’s imagination, is a cinematic display within an individual’s mind which can portray one’s desires, fantasies, and also replay retrospective events in one’s life; the mind’s adventure. As the poet Giovanni Pascoli declares, ‘Dream is the never ending shadow of truth’ while Dante (in Purgatorio, XXVI.92-3) further states that, sleep ‘often knows the news before the event occurs’. This idea that dreams are a form of oracle for an individual is what I feel foretells the next trend: the mind’s eye leading you blindly into the future. My collection explores the uncontrolled nature of the unseen mind and the contradiction of the outer shell’s simplicity as one sleeps, using light as the metaphor for the mind’s eye.

+44 (0) 7742429152

m e l i ssac l a i r e l au @ l i v e . co . u k


SALLY yilok LEE A pleat…a feather…a print…a Swarovski crystal… This collection combines the drama of the Venice Carnival and the delicate features of birds. Both have a hidden identity which when revealed creates a magical effect. Birds possess an inner beauty which is revealed when they spread their wings. Luxurious fabrics dominate throughout the streets of the Venice Carnival. Concealing the body with garments made from rich silks that burst with deep reds and tones of blacks will empower the wearer with new authority while hypnotising others with their mysteriousness, beauty and elegance.

+44 (0) 7795965325

y i lo k . s . l e e @ h ot m a i l . co m


SOPHIE LEE Finding beauty in brokenness, the collection is inspired by ancient, defaced carvings of the Virgin Mary and ancient Roman Gods. It recreates timeless beauty with print and pleats inspired by Early Renaissance paintings. The dresses like sculptures have organic lines with securely structured interiors beneath, creating silhouettes that are both sophisticated and whimsical. Chalky, faded pistachio creams, turquoises and nude pinks emulate the romantic, serene mood of Botticelli’s painting ‘La Primavera.’ Embracing a modern feminine ideal of youthful, relaxed elegance with a lavish blend of clean, fluid lines of hand pleated silks and light chiffon, multi layering and opulent textures.

+44 (0) 7909966077

sophieisabellelee@googlemail.com


CHARLOTTE MYLES Laser etching and colours with textural contrast form the soul of my collection. The initial inspiration was drawn from my childhood as a young girl in a wintery Bruges. Looking through the lace shop windows, seduced by the excess of texture and wealth of decoration, this collection brings together my childhood fantasy of beauty with my adult enthusiasm for contemporary techniques such as etching and unexpected textiles such as the partnering of silk and leather. The contemporary and the traditional combine to exhibit my enthusiasm as a designer for progressive techniques and my admiration for the past, the regeneration of lace in the form of leather and laser etching.

+44 (0) 7956990942

c h a r lot t e m y l e s @ g o o g l e m a i l . co . u k


KIMBERLEY PATTINSON Faked Nature. We seek to reconnect, to become akin to our surroundings. An emulation of earthly beauty. An ode to nature. She heralds imitation with flattery and disdain. Behold the organic illusion; its fabrication is evident. Ghosts of natural forms are ensnared by structural lines of stitching. Darkened cobwebs reveal careful construction in silk and wire while glinting spores of steel expose their industrial extraction. Shimmering plastic streams harbour false pebbles, shining ball bearings as a colour palette of stony neutrals shy from a bright chroma blue. The juxtaposition between the seemingly natural and the man-made. A tribute. A fake.

+44 (0) 7841844586

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nadja penfold My inspiration developed from the neurological condition, Synaesthesia, a rare condition in which sensory neurons responsible for converting information from external stimuli to internal stimuli becomes disordered. Seeing colours, hearing sounds and tasting touch. Using touch as a central theme I have explored the blurring of boundaries between conventional cognitive processes and senses becoming overlapped in a way only experienced by Synesthetes. Sight is the key sense to aesthetic design. Producing work that stimulates the senses used in the absence of sight by incorporating Braille into my silhouettes. I wish to emulate the sensory confusion of Synthaesthesia within my own work. A product of the absence of sight combined with visually appealing structures.

+44 (0) 7872589418

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SUSAN PENN ‘Soon, soon I will climb from this blackened earth into the diffident light’ Eurydice by Sue Hubbard. Reminiscent of a better time, you feel trapped by a city that expresses a sense of sadness and darkened emotion. Good memories are blurred with reality, and despite an items’ lightness or beauty, they always carry with them a reminder of your restrictive surroundings. A feeling of hope and aspired elegance is conveyed in a collection that creates the subtle appearance of control through its cut and drape. Varying intensities of print, colour and fabrication reflect a longing to escape whilst still connecting to the realities of day to day life.

+44 (0) 7786960083

ss.n.penn@googlemail.com


angharad SIĂ‚N probert I think we are being watched... They are behind you, above you, below you. You are heading straight for them. You are constantly in their shot. Their eyes are upon you. Figures and shadows demand an appearance; their hands grasp your arms, your shoulders. Your secrets, exposed through their peepholes that you forget are there. Calculating your every move. You seduce them with your presence, we are the Secret Public. It is hauntingly beautiful. I think we are being watched...not followed. sponsors: fenland sheepskin

+44 (0) 7738719680

angharadprobert@live.com


Sharren Qin My initial inspiration is called Body Section, the significance of its name comes from a suit of amour. It inspired my ideas for design, to develop the different ideas from its function, shape and materials. Especially the function of how the amour is used, in detail to work on the ideas of the connection of the limbs and the use of soft and hard materials. Finally carefully extract the detail of the slender waist idea. The research into armour reminds me of puppets, robots, and automation movement, that they all share a common feature is section. The fabrics research will be looking into hard and soft, with colours go for bright or metallic, including some accessories, to create a modern fashion trend.

+44 (0) 7798566394

kumico _qzz@hotmail .com


elle Boyoon seok Inspired by Boudicca’s dress, black yet immersed with swirls of beautiful, antique roses, so delicately printed with a trompe l’oeil, 3 dimensional effect. Although it comprises of such feminine, traditional style of embellishment, the silhouette and lines of the dress are constructive, bold and in a sense quite masculine. Its mysterious and unique aura had caught my attention and has led me to create an abundance of design ideas, using a vintage garment by Wallis which has a similar essence and mood to Boudicca’s inspirational dress.

+44 (0) 7846651413

elleseok@hanmail.net


anna singleton Looking at the beauty of the mundane. Celebrating the moments of ugliness and awkwardness that occur throughout our everyday lives. Concentrating on the bathroom as a space with which we hold many relationships. As well as a place of cleanliness, it offers us privacy. It is a space which we wander in and out of throughout the day, in various states of dress. Its mirrored walls and clinical surfaces provide the backdrop for scrutiny and a darker scene. Whilst sexuality remains integral, gender becomes irrelevant. The prevailing mood is accidental and garments become asexual.

+44 (0) 7791646784

info@anna-singleton .co.uk


beth spurr ‘Fashion’. Description: A Series of Experiments. 1: The 30 Second Outfit. Participants have 30 seconds to get dressed.2: The 30 Minute Garment. 6 garments manufactured, each taking 30 minutes.3: The 2 Minute Outfit. Participants have 2 minutes to choose an outfit from Experiment 2. 4: 0-101. 96 hours and 99 sketches to make a pair of trousers imperfect. 5: 0-102. 96 hours and 100 sketches to make a jacket imperfect. 6: The Control. The creation of the perfect wardrobe. 7: The Results. Gender + Size + Function + Speed of Change + Mass Production + Control = Fashion. sponsors: dashing tweeds, nike and 3m.

+44 (0) 7821414885

info@bethspurr.co.uk


liam anthony stafford Inspiration: South Crofty mine: The working place of my father for many years. Hundreds of feet below ground, trapped, caged, claustrophobia soon sets in. Headlamp creating refracted rays of light through darkness. Machinery advanced in sophistication and efficiency, used as an extension of the body. Viewing my father as heroic and self-sacrificing. 1998 leads to the closure of South Crofty mine. Tailored garments juxtaposed with fabric manipulations and the considered use of drape; embellished by clusters of Swarovski crystals, all working together to create the look of beautiful structures discovered underground. sponsors: john bsyd textiles and saga

+44 (0) 7792025013

s ta f f o r d l i a m @ h o t m a i l . c o . u k


naomi stahl This collection has been developed from key features and functions of military and aeronautical surplus. Through the use of diaphanous fabrics, attention to seam detail and play on female proportion, it has reinterpreted itself from the traditional identity of military into tomboy-lux. Colours range from varying tones of ivory and fawn, through to grey, with minimal use of socialist red. Subtle tone changes throughout each look resonate with the mood of tone-on-tone military textiles. The collection contains understated symbols and reference to the works of German artist Joseph Beuys and to the stories he told about his time in the Luftwaffe during World War II.

+44 (0) 7708148188

n a o m i s ta h l @ l i v e . c o m


garcia tellalian The creation of one’s imagination. The art of the imaginative revolution. 206. Life yearning. Bones paralyzing. Limbs crunching. Disks tweaking. Muscles pumping. Soul mystified. The human body. A sensual part of nature. The hardened blue print of the human skeletal frame that harnesses the figure of the human body. Bones are strong. Light in weight. Making movement possible. Constantly grow. Renew and reshape. Number 206... Shake things. Take things. Make things. Rigid. Stiff. Elastic. Shapes. Patterns. Structures. Extensions. Motivating. Amazing. Fascinating. Cross - sectional layers; bones are inspiration. Small pieces have come together to create something new. Something unstoppable. Number 206... Bones in the body.

+44 (0) 799545980

g a r c i at e l l a l i a n @ h o t m a i l . c o m


catherine tonkins “The difference between collecting stamps and collecting butterflies is that you do not have to kill the stamps.� Collecting Nature, Anne Fadiman. Inspired by natural history and the process of its collection, my work looks to dissect and fragment the body in unusual ways through the juxtaposition of chaotic print with simple tailoring. Using contrasting colours and a combination of eye-catching graphic prints on fluid silks, my aim is to create a collection evocative of exotic insects. With key silhouettes featuring exaggerated batwing sleeves, and using contrast piping to draw the eye seductively around the body.

+44 (0) 7814411696

c at h e r i n e . ava l o n @ h o t m a i l . c o . u k


nathalie tunna A book is always judged by its cover... Head up, stand straight, shoulders back. Rules, regulations, dress codes waiting to be broken. Etiquette, decorum and poise, a quest for elegance and grace undercut by the delight of disobedience. Long, dark, panelled corridors, draughty rooms where young girls become ladies. Archaic traditions and customs. Where innocence and youth become moulded to society’s demands. Neat lines, minimal, precise and tidy. Demure and restrained. Just so. High waists, smart collars, long skirts. Undone by print. Crushed lemon, water lily green, lantern ink, ivory pearl, shell pink. Hemmed in and reserved, juxtaposed by a playful undercurrent, a longing to be unravelled. sponsors: davies & son ofsavile row and the cambridge satchel company

+44 (0) 7876744635

n at h a l i e @ n at h a l i e t u n n a . c o m


charlotte wilson The forest, a place of sanctuary, a place of fear, a place for those forced towards the primitive. Simple shelters home to untold tales of vulnerability and thwarted aspiration. A creative symbol of human crisis. Combining hard and soft fabric, technical fibres and quilted silks a textured patchwork symbolic to the harsh realities of survival through displacement. My palette combines the harsh greys of tarpaulin infused with primary colours taken from layered blankets and remnants of their homeland. I have created a collection inspired by the makeshift shelters of invisible people with unfinished journeys. Asylum.

+44 (0) 7850016421

c h a r l i e _ w i l s o n 21@ h ot m a i l . co . u k


vivian wong The point of any set of rules is that “it’s got to look right.” That is David Cameron’s comment on the MP expenses scandal. What a weird thought, does that mean if you cover apples with orange skin you get oranges? That is the world we are living in? Designs based on business suits, an MP’s uniform, which portray respectability, trustworthiness, ‘correctness’. If mixed with elements of wardrobe malfunctions, exposed, broken, will an MP be let into parliament wearing such garment? Technically it is still a suit. Are rules all we have to accept, without us needing to understand further?

+44 (0) 7833358957

vivian .wywong @hotmail .com


JU HYUN YOO Do you think your limbs should always be where they are now? Are they in the right place on your body? Can you imagine what it would be like if they were not placed in their original positions. A small destruction may bring you to see another beauty in silhouette. Let your body explore on itself. But don’t worry. It won’t make you look deformed or ugly. You will love what it creates. Sometimes, the wrong place can be the better place.

+ (82) 1088566358

j u h y u n 0625@ h ot m a i l . co m


zheng zeng My collection is about “give body a new shape”. Its means that create a new shape of garment is my aim thing. The inspiration source is outstanding sleeve clothing from Martin Margelia and a curve-shaped “tree chair” pictures. “No line is a straight line”, that I use curve line applied to every details of clothes and then use soft curve line connect them together From convexconcave curve on body that give a shape to garment. I choose different tones of grey in colour series to create a sense of shadow and lights that looks like a curve shape pattern.

+44 (0) 7795662102

zhengzeng @hotmail .com



SPONSORS AND ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS





0203 2380030

150 Regent Street, London, W1


WWW.ARTSTHREAD.COM

THREAD THE WORLDS ONLY CREATIVE GRADUATE WEBSITE To find out more about Kingston Fashion BA (Hons) course on ARTS THREAD and to see graduate portfolios link to: www.artsthread.com/c/kingstonuniversity/fashionbahons

THREAD RESOURCE ARTS THREAD Resource is a new recruitment consultancy specialising in placing creative graduates worldwide

Launching June 2010 Contact: resource@artsthread.com Fashion/Textiles/Accessories Visual Communication Industrial/Product/Spatial Ceramic/Jewellery/Glass Images top to bottom: 2009 Kingston fashion BA(Hons) graduates Katie Hildebrand, Katie Hildebrand, Megumi Sawahara, Kate Hamilton, Kerrie Starling, Emma Laine Glynn, Harriet Disley.





Smith & Pye says CONGRATULATIONS to the graduates of 2010. Smith & Pye is the leading agency for Fashion Designers. Their clients include: Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Loewe, Nike, Levi Strauss, Burberry, Mulberry, Topshop, Gap, Abercrombie & Fitch, etc. “Smith & Pye propose great designers who are an excellent fit for the position. I am always impressed by the calibre of their candidates.” Stuart Vevers, Creative Director, Loewe (LVMH) “Smith & Pye take the hard work out sourcing and reciting talented and capable designers - indespensable!” Nick Passmore, Design Director, Whistles “Smith & Pye is the best agency for senior level, first rate designers. They have an international database and can quickly find the sort of designers we are looking for.” Jonathan Kirby, Creative Magager, Levi Strauss. “Smith & Pye is always my first point of call when looking for designers for French Connection & Nicole Farhi” Stephen Marks, Chairman/Cheif Executive, French Connection/Nicole Farhi

+44 (0)20 77391010

cake@smithandpye.com

wwww.smithandpye.com





destinations INCLUDe

2006 Hannah Aggett – Stella McCartney Natalie Benmayor – Karen Millen Rachel Linford – Orla Keily Min Hee Shin - Urban Outfitters Stella Smith Stevens – Country Road, Australia 2007 Polly Davies – Burberry Natalie Frost – Markus Lupfer Charlotte Harrison – Wonderland Magazine Joshua Kane – Jaeger Menswear Tina Rud Pedersen – Zara 2008 Kasha Crampton – Reiss Menswear Laura Harvey – Boden Childrenswear Jessica Rose – Giuliano Fujiwara, Milan Francesca Sloan – Religion Laura Thompson – Mulberry 2009 Emma Glynn – MaxMara (Weekend) Philippa Jenkins – John Smedley Stephanie Pither – All Saints Elizabeth Stott – Aquascutum Gabrielle Taylor - Topshop


acknowledgements

Venue: Earls Court 2 Show Production: Lesley Goring Video Production: Project Video Show Photography: Simon Armstrong Make Up: Benefit and Vaida Mugenyte assisted by LCF students. Hair: L’OrÊal Professional Music: Nathan Gregory Wilkins Catering: Cucina Set and Stand Design: Bond and Coyne Printing: indigo Press Illustration: Geoff Grandfield Graphic Design: Katie Callaghan, Lucia Davies, Charlotte Jones and Hannah Springett



FASHION STAFF

Joe Bates Lee Benjamin Jane Chadwick Pusia Chatfield James Church Stephanie Cooper Anne Dykes Sam Elliott Birgit Faullant Kathrine Horsewell Adam Howe Andrew Ibi Hannah Jordan Sarah Magnay Maria Masztalir Donald Milne Alexis Panayirtou Satyen Patel Jo Parker Nancy Tilbury Erika Trotzig Maxine Vernon Fiona Whitehead Rose Wood Krystyna Wisniewska







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