H. Moser & Cie Catalogue, English Edition by H. Moser & Cie.

WATC H M A K I N G O V E R T W O C E N T U R I E S

P A S S I O N AT E LY D I F F E R E N T

MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG SWITZERLAND

THE PRESENT-DAY COMPANY HEADQUARTERS OF MOSER GROUP AG ARE IN THE IMMEDIATE VICINIT Y OF THE RHINE FALLS AT SCHAFFHAUSEN. EUROPE’S L ARGEST WATERFALL AT TR ACTS VISITORS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD EVERY YEAR. AT AN AVER AGE FLOW, AROUND 700 CUBIC METRES OF WATER PER SECOND CASCADE OVER THE ROCKS AND OFFER A SPECTACUL AR SIGHT.

CONTENTS

CON T EN TS 9

FOREWORD

WAT CH M A K I N G T R A D I T I O N O F S C H A F F H AU S E N O N T H E R H I N E FA L L S

C O M PA N Y H I S T O RY H E I N R I C H M O S E R T H E WATC H M A K E R S C H A F F H AU S E N T I M E C O M PA N Y A N D B R A N D N A M E

TURN OF THE MILLENIUM VISIONS

M O S E R P E R P E T UA L 1 P E R P E T UA L C A L E N DA R A N D F L A S H C A L E N DA R

M O N A R D DAT E T H E L A R G E DAT E F R O M M O S E R DOUBLE PULL CROWN ( DPC ) MECHANISM

MONARD CENTRE SECONDS M O S E R D UA L B A R R E L

M AY U WHEELS, PINIONS AND LE VERS S E C O N D S S TO P F U N C T I O N

H E N RY D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N G S T R AU M A N N D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N G E S C A P E M E N T

74 80

L I M I T E D C O L L EC T O R S E D I T I O N S T EC H N I C A L D E TA I L S INTERCHANGE ABLE ESCAPEMENT MODULE T H E S T R AU M A N N H A I R S P R I N G ® THE CR AF TSMAN’S ART

T E A M S P I R I T A N D S P EC I A L I S T S

TIMELINE

10 0

IMPRINT

14-CAR AT GOLD HUNTER POCKET WATCH WITH MINUTE REPEATER AND CHRONOGR APH, CA 1900

FOREWORD

FORE WORD It gives me great pleasure, dear watch enthusiast, to

this period. Among other things, we were awarded the

introduce you to the watches from H. Moser & Cie in this

prestigious Grand Prix dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Horlogerie de GenĂ¨ve for our

second edition of our catalogue, although the origins

Moser Perpetual 1. New calibres, such as the Henry

of the company actually go back some 180 years. The

Double Hairspring with its revolutionary new escape-

history encompasses the life of my great-grandfather

ment system, have also found a place in our family of

Heinrich Moser, born more than 200 years ago, who had

watches.

already gained an international reputation as a watchmaker by the age of 21, and the successful relaunch of the ie

H. Moser & C brand in 2005.

It fi lls me with pride and joy today, as the great-grandson of Heinrich Moser, to have returned to the place where he used to work and to be able again to present watches

At the beginning of the 21st century, in the course of his

that are entitled to bear the name of such an important

research, the Schaff hausen horologist Dr. Lange came

and innovative man.

across the Moser watch dynasty including me as one of the descendants. The desire to revive the H. Moser & Cie watch brand arose from our subsequent meeting. I was delighted to accept the honourable task of representing the company externally. Today our thanks are due primarily to the friends of the house of Moser, who have remained loyal to us for so long, and in particular to our highly committed shareholders and employees. The new

ROGER NICHOL AS BALSIGER

start would not have been possible without their keen

HONOR ARY CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD OF DIRECTORS

interest and their passionate involvement. We can look

MOSER GROUP AG

back with pride over everything that has happened during

Schaffhausen, September 2008

T H E WATCH M A K IN G TOW N O F SCH A FFH AUSEN O N T H E RHINE FA L L S Schaffhausen’s reputation as an important watchmaking town can be traced back to the middle of the 16th century. Joachim Habrecht, who received the Town Charter of Schaffhausen in 1539, went on to build the astronomical clock for the Schaffhausen Fronwaagturm tower, which is still in operation. His two sons, Isaac (1544–1620) and Josias (1552–1575) Habrecht, built the second astronomical clock in Strasbourg Cathedral and were among the most famous watchmakers of their age. A table clock by Isaac Habrecht exhibited at the Museum of Applied Arts and Design in the city of Winterthur bears witness to the artistic skills and refi ned craftsmanship of the watch makers of that period.

TABLE CLOCK CA 1570, ISA AC HABRECHT,

POCKET WATCH CASE

ASTRONOMICAL COMPLICATIONS

«GEORG MICHAEL MOSER»,

AND MUSICAL MOVEMENT WITH FIGURES,

GOLD, CA 1775, HOMBERGER COLLECTION,

MUSEUM OF APPLIED ARTS AND DESIGN WINTERTHUR

SCHAFFHAUSEN

T R A D I T I O N O F WATC H M A K I N G

In the master enameller and engraver Georg Michael Moser (1706 –1783), the town once again produced a horological craftsman whose fame would spread beyond its boundaries. His elaborately executed gold cases adorn many a collection of important watches. Georg Michael Moser, a distant relative of Heinrich Moser, also became a founding member of the British Royal Academy of Arts in later years. More than 30 other watchmakers are listed in the town records in the 17th century. Yet not until Johannes Moser (1730 –1820), the grandfather of Heinrich Moser, would

TABLE CLOCK SIGNED «JOHANNES MOSER IN SCHAFFHAUSEN»,

VERGE POCKET WATCH SIGNED

CA 1770, HOMBERGER COLLECTION,

«ERHARD MOSER A SCHAFFHOUSE»

SCHAFFHAUSEN

EARLY 19TH CENTURY

the town again see a watchmaker whose works have stood the test of time. As town watchmaker and magistrate in the local court, Johannes Moser was a respected figure. He established the Moser watchmaking dynasty with the trade mark of the highest quality and superb craftsmanship. His son Erhard Moser (1760–1829) succeeded him in the trade of town watchmaker. Like his father before him, Erhard Moser was also well known beyond his occupation as a watchmaker as a member of the Grand Council and Town Commissioner. He introduced his son Heinrich Moser, born in 1805 in the «Haus zum Blauen Himmel» in Schaffhausen, to the watchmaker’s craft. The artistic skill of Heinrich Moser’s creations very soon gained him international respect and recognition. He became the leading Schaffhausen exponent of this craft with businesses in St. Petersburg and Le Locle, among other locations. He opened a workshop for the manufacture of watch cases

THE «HAUS ZUM BL AUEN HIMMEL» IN SCHAFFHAUSEN’S OLD TOWN WITH THE FORMER WORKSHOP OF THE TOWN WATCHMAKER, ERHARD MOSER

T R A D I T I O N O F WATC H M A K I N G

in Schaffhausen in 1853, and he established a school for watchmakers in 1856. He supported F. A. Jones in the foundation of the International Watch Company (IWC) in 1868 by providing him with premises and low-cost electricity supplied via a power transmission system. IWC kept the watchmaking tradition of Schaff hausen alive for a great many years and with a very chequered history. Not until 2002 would far-sighted, entrepreneurial courage once again provide the stimulus for a new, «old» H. Moser & Cie watch factory. The records tell us that the establishment of his watch business in Schaff hausen was indeed Heinrich Moser’s lifelong dream. Now, more than 200 years after the birth of Heinrich Moser in Schaffhausen, the story of an enterprise which fi rst set up in business in St. Petersburg in 1826 has come full circle with the relaunch of the H. Moser & Cie brand.

GOLD MINUTE REPEATER BY HEINRICH MOSER, END OF THE 19TH CENTURY

C O M PA N Y H I S TO RY

HEINRICH MOSER THE WATCHM A K ER Heinrich Moser was born on 12 December 1805 into the

As an ambitious and visionary watchmaker, Heinrich

large family of the town watchmaker of Schaffhausen,

Moser decided to set up in business in distant Russia.

Erhard Moser. He grew up in 19th-century Schaffhausen

Imperial Russia at that time was regarded as an excellent

surrounded by the tradition and experience of a watch-

labour and sales market and as a sound trading base for

making dynasty consolidated over several generations.

watches. In order to prepare for this challenge, Heinrich

He worked in the family business from 1820 to 1824,

Moser used his free time to build watches and tools

where he learned the traditional watchmakerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s craft

that would facilitate his start-up in business. He had the

from his father, and subsequently broadened his knowl-

equivalent of around 2,000 Swiss francs in cash at the

edge in the watchmaking town of Le Locle in western

time of his departure in November 1827.

Switzerland. In 1826, Heinrich Moser started work on his own account and built clocks into cases and pieces of

His journey to St. Petersburg in 1827 was anything

furniture for a German merchant. His plans to succeed

but comfortable. Heinrich Moser travelled by coach via

to the position of town watchmaker after the death of

Karlsruhe and Weimar to Stettin, and onwards by pas-

his father, a vocation which had been performed by the

senger ship to St. Petersburg. After working for a number

family for two generations, were thwarted by the town

of employers as a watchmaker, he founded his own com-

council in Schaffhausen. He would hold this against the

pany in St. Petersburg at the end of 1828. This marked the

authorities for the rest of his life.

inception of the highly successful H. Moser & Cie brand.

HEINRICH MOSERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PASSPORT, DATING FROM 1872

HEINRICH MOSER, BRONZE BUST IN THE MOSERGARTEN PARK, SCHAFFHAUSEN

C O M PA N Y H I S TO RY

Alongside expensive precision watches and watches de-

Urban JĂźrgensen or Jaeger-LeCoultre. Their records list

signed as pieces of jewellery, Heinrich Moser also

him as a regular customer from 1860.

offered a range of simple watches. Heinrich Moserâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s constant quest for quality was crowned In the course of developing his trading network, he

by success. He supplied the Imperial Court, various

realized that a successful wholesaler would also benefit

princes and the armed forces in Russia. Within just a

from being a manufacturer at the same time. Heinrich

few years, he was selling watches to Persia, China and

Moser accordingly established a watch factory in Le Locle

Japan, as well as New York and Paris, where his brother

in 1829, which manufactured watches exclusively for his

Georg Moser was also working as a watchmaker. Only

own businesses. This enabled him to guarantee the high

15 years after founding his company, Heinrich Moser

quality of the products bearing his name. He was later

was the undisputed market leader in the Russian watch

made an honorary citizen of Le Locle in recognition of

trade. He returned to his home town of Schaffhausen

his services to the town in the Swiss Jura. One of the

as a prosperous watch manufacturer and merchant at the

company buildings exists there to this day and is listed as

end of 1848.

a historic monument. In addition to the movements produced in his own factory in Le Locle, he also purchased movement blanks from such prestigious companies as

BUSINESS DEALINGS WITH NEW YORK AND PARIS IN 1867 AND 1868

C O M PA N Y H I S TO RY

SCH A FFH AUSEN T IME In addition to watchmaking, Heinrich Moser’s life

disappointments. The premature death of his fi rst wife

following his return to Switzerland was also characterized

Charlotte, née Mayu, in 1850 thus curtailed Moser’s

by other projects combined with restless creativity. With

otherwise seemingly inexhaustible creative power for a

his pioneering spirit, he initiated the transformation

while. She would not live to see the completion of the

of the previously sleepy town of Schaff hausen into a

Charlottenfels country estate near Schaffhausen, which

dynamic industrial location. In 1851, Heinrich Moser

had been named after her. Heinrich Moser was similarly

completed the construction of a channel on the River

never able to reconcile himself to the fact that his only

Rhine, which provided the water power to drive turbines

son, Henri Moser (1844–1923), never took up the reins of

with an output of around 80 hp. This was followed

his father’s watch business.

in 1853 by a joint venture with other Schaff hausen personalities for the establishment of Schweizerische

Heinrich Moser died on 23 October 1874. The heiress

Waggonfabrik bei Schaff hausen (Swiss Wagonworks at

to all his business interests was his second wife Fanny

Schaff hausen), which changed its name to Schweizer-

Moser, who thus became one of the

ische Industriegesellschaft (SIG) Neuhausen (Swiss

wealthiest women in Switzerland.

Industrial Company Neuhausen) in 1863. He was also a co-founder of the Schaff hausen –Winterthur railway

Present-day visitors to Schaff-

line in 1853. In the winter of 1863/64, Heinrich Moser

hausen continue to experience the

embarked on the construction of the largest Swiss dam at

spirit of Heinrich Moser. The

that time on the River Rhine at Schaff hausen, which

house where he was born in the

enabled him to supply neighbouring industrial compa-

Old Town, known as the «Haus

nies with inexpensive energy via a power transmission

zum Blauen Himmel», and the

system. The subsequent establishment of Wasserwerk

Charlottenfels country manor still

Gesellschaft Schaff hausen (Schaff hausen Waterworks

exist. The modern Schaff hausen

Company) in 1865 marked the dawn of the industrial age

power station today stands on the

in Schaffhausen.

historic dam on the River Rhine. The majority of the companies founded by Heinrich Mo-

MOSER

His professional success and the acceptance of Heinrich

ser are operating successfully to this day. The residents of

FAMILY CREST

Moser in social circles contrasted sharply with his private

Schaffhausen have honoured their fellow citizen with the

life, which was at times overshadowed by considerable

Moserstrasse, with his bronze bust in the Mosergarten park and, with the Charlottenfels country estate.

CHARLOT TENFELS COUNTRY MANOR NEAR SCHAFFHAUSEN

C O M PA N Y H I S TO RY

COMPA N Y A ND BR A ND N A ME The fi rst internationally active

Moser sold to the Imperial Court, to various princes and

company founded by Heinrich

to the armed forces. In Japan, China and Persia, but also

Moser in 1828 was the St. Pe-

in Paris and New York: The name H. Moser & Cie stood

tersburg trading company, H.

for quality and met the highest expectations throughout

Moser & Co. From this name,

the world.

he developed the company signature in Latin and Cyrillic

Heinrich Moser also included

script, which was almost always

other watch companies among

accompanied by a seal. In 1829, he opened a watch fac-

his customers. For example, the

tory in Le Locle under the name «H. Moser & C .» or also

famous Fabergé table clocks

«H. Moser & Co.». These trade marks were used as the

were equipped almost without

standard signature on all the watches supplied by Moser’s

exception with movements pro-

watch business until around 1918.

duced by Moser; even at that time, incidentally, these clocks

His watches were of the best quality, and Heinrich Moser

had two spring barrels arranged

personally paid painstaking attention to purchasing only

in series.

from the best suppliers and producing at the highest level. The range at times consisted of up to 70 different calibres.

FABERGÉ TABLE CLOCK WITH MOSER DUAL BARREL MOVEMENT

SIGNATORIES OF H. MOSER & C IE DATING FROM 1842

C O M PA N Y H I S TO RY

Following Heinrich Moser’s death, his second wife sold the two businesses with the proviso that they would continue to operate under the name «H. Moser & Cie» or «Heinrich Moser & Co.». In spite of this measure, it was eventually no longer possible to assure the uniformity of the company name. The style Hy. Moser & Cie. was evidently also used in Le Locle. By 1979, the watch factory had become a part of the Dixi Mechanique Group as «Hy Moser & Cie». Since then, the only trade in Moser watches has been in the antique market.

MINUTE REPEATER WITH PERPETUAL CALENDAR AND

The Russian operation had already been expropriated without compensation in 1917 in the aftermath of the October Revolution. Around the year 1920, the stateowned «Central Watch Repair Workshop» was formed in Moscow from the remains of the Moser watch businesses. Moser watches continued to be regarded as synonymous with work of the highest quality for some considerable time afterwards. In 1966, the government of what was the USSR presented one of its high-ranking military officers with an original Moser pocket watch in 18-carat gold, dating from the period before the expropriation and bearing an engraved dedication for his services to the implantation of communism. This watch is now back in the company museum.

GOLD HUNTER POCKET WATCH H. MOSER & CIE, IMPERIAL EAGLE IN GOLD ENAMEL

BOXES OF MOVEMENT PARTS, CA 1870 TO 1890, L ANGE COLLECTION, SCHAFFHAUSEN

MOON PHASE, CA 1870

C O M PA N Y H I S TO RY

Heinrich Moser’s only son had no surviving offspring,

ments of the best quality, developed by the company and

and with his death in 1923, the name of Moser also died

used exclusively in its watches, combine innovation with

out in this branch of the family.

maximum customer benefit. Creative and horological traditions ensure that the new watches also have a high

Dr. Jürgen Lange and the great-grandson of Heinrich

degree of brand recognition.

Moser, Roger Nicholas Balsiger, jointly with private investors, founded the Moser Schaff hausen AG watch

The story came full circle with the 200th anniversary

company in 2002. Dr. Lange also registered the original

of Heinrich Moser’s birth in 2005: The H. Moser & Cie

H. Moser & C brand again internationally.

brand has returned to Schaffhausen.

The sites occupied by the company today are located, according to Heinrich Moser’s original plan, in Schaffhausen and Neuhausen in the immediate vicinity of the Rhine Falls. To this day, however, the extraordinary Moser watches are also produced in the Swiss Jura. Moser watches of the new era combine horological passion with authentic tradition. Mechanical move-

PRESENT-DAY COMPANY BUILDING IN NEUHAUSEN NEAR THE RHINE FALLS

THE FACTORY IN LE LOCLE, BUILT AROUND 1900

TURN OF THE MILLENIUM

LINE DR AWING OF THE MONARD MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505

VISIONS

V ISIONS At the start of this century, the industrial pioneer Heinrich

brand. The brand was registered internationally, and

Moser, who is well known in the region above all for his

Moser Schaffhausen AG was launched as a watchmaking

water constructions, came to the notice of the Schaff-

company in a joint venture with other investors. A sub-

hausen horologist Dr. Jürgen Lange. He began to research

sequent merger of horological engineering companies

Moser’s life and in particular the history of the Moser

resulted in the formation of Moser Group AG, the present

watchmaking dynasty and its watches. He was especially

trade mark owner. Roger Nicholas Balsiger today holds

the position of Honorary Chairman of the Board of

watch brand, highly sought-after in collectors’ circles,

Directors, and Dr. Jürgen Lange has operational respon-

could nowadays only be found in the antique market.

sibility for the business.

interested to discover the reason why the H. Moser & C

In the course of his investigations, Dr. Lange came across Roger Nicholas Balsiger, the great-grandson of Heinrich Moser. Balsiger had already made a name for himself as a family historian in numerous publications. The meeting between the horological expert Dr. Lange and the internationally active banker Roger Nicholas Balsiger proved to be an auspicious one. The two men decided to revive the legendary H. Moser & Cie watch

ESCAPEMENT MODULE ON A SEPAR ATE CARRIER PL ATE

VISIONS

Thanks to a particular form of cooperation with the best

Solid craftsmanship and horological passion have given

specialists in the Swiss watch industry and a team moti-

rise to watches which fascinate with their unobtrusive

vated by enthusiasm, the watch company that emerged

outward appearance and reveal the complexity of their

within just a few years easily stands comparison with that

internal workings to the connoisseur discreetly and only

of its founding father.

at a second glance.

The result of this new departure is a range of fascinating

Today, more than 180 years after the establishment of

mechanical watches, which will carry the tradition of

Heinrich Moserâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s company, the international approach

Heinrich Moser and his concept of high quality

adopted from the outset is helping to reacquaint a circle

consciousness into a new millennium. A new type of

of prospective customers all over the world with the

wristwatch has been created: The collection combines

significance of the H. Moser & Cie brand.

elegance and understatement with patented technical innovations. Its sophisticated functionality is presented in a deliberately restrained manner and complements the harmonious overall impression.

PROTOT YPE MAKERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S WORKSTATION

MONARD MOVEMENT ON THE ASSEMBLY WORKSTATION

MOSER PERPE TUAL 1

MOSER PERPE T UA L 1 A mechanical watch with a perpetual calendar, of a

Adjustment is also possible when the watch is actually in

kind never previously seen: the Moser Perpetual 1.

the process of changing the date. A unique safety mecha-

Distinguished with the Grand Prix de Genève, the most

nism ensures that none of the delicate parts is damaged

prestigious and coveted award of the Swiss horological

if the watch changes to the next day while the wearer is

industry.

adjusting the date backwards via the crown.

This extraordinary watch of the new generation is

The «Double Pull Crown» mechanism makes it easier to

equipped with the Moser dual barrel and possesses a min-

locate the central position of the crown for setting the

imum power reserve of seven days when fully wound.

date. It effectively prevents the inadvertent adjustment of the hands with the crown in its outermost position.

The perpetual calendar, coordinated by purely mechanical means to the various lengths of the months and the

The rapidly and easily interchangeable escapement mod-

leap year, captivates with the unique clarity of its display.

ule provides enhanced ease of servicing. This module was

Only the easily legible, large date on the dial and the

used for the fi rst time by Moser and assists the watch-

display of the month by a small hand from the centre of

maker to reduce the length of the service times.

the dial reveal to the connoisseur what an horological masterpiece he has before him.

Another exclusive and unique feature is the execution of the escapement wheel and the pallet fork in hardened

The display also referred to as the «Flash Calendar» pro-

solid gold.

vides for instantaneous changing of the date from the end of the current month to the start of the following month,

A three-part, round designer case in precious metal with

without allowing any invalid numerals to appear in the

freely formed bracelet lugs, discreetly convex sapphire

date window. This ensures the clear legibility of the date

glass and a see-through sapphire glass back give the watch

at all times, without any irritating distractions.

a distinctive exterior.

If ever the date needs to be adjusted, this can be done both forwards and backwards via the crown of the watch.

MOSER PERPETUAL 1

REFERENCE NO. 341.501- 004 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DUAL BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM SECONDS STOP FUNCTION SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND DESIGNER CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP

REFERENCE NO. 341.501- 002 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DUAL BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM SECONDS STOP FUNCTION SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD RHODIUM-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND DESIGNER CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP

MOSER PERPETUAL 1

REFERENCE NO. 341.501- 001 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DUAL BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM SECONDS STOP FUNCTION SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BL ACK L ACQUERED DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND DESIGNER CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP

REFERENCE NO. 341.501- 006 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DUAL BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM SECONDS STOP FUNCTION SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD ARDOISE SL ATE DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND DESIGNER CASE IN PL ATINUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK

MOVEMENT

CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP

CAL. HMC 341.501

WITH SOLID PL ATINUM FOLDING CL ASP

PERPE T UA L C A L EN DA R A ND FL A SH C A L EN DA R The term «perpetual calendar» is always applied to mechanical watches when the date, despite the different lengths of the months, is always correctly indicated automatically. Including when February has 29 days every four years. The Moser Cal. HMC 341.501 movement is a 7-day handwound movement with a perpetual calendar, which is adjustable forwards and backwards at any time without restriction via the winding crown in its central position. This extraordinary calendar mechanism is integrated directly in the movement. As a result, it is also not particularly thick, as would have been the case in a simpler modular design. The elegance of a well-proportioned movement with harmonious dimensions is retained in spite of its high complexity. This perpetual calendar is known as the «Flash Calendar», because it possesses the world’s only date display which changes directly from the last day of the current month to the fi rst day of the following month without displaying invalid days; regardless of whether the month has 30, 31, 28 or 29 days.

THE FL ASH CALENDAR NEVER DISPL AYS ANY INVALID DAYS

CONICAL TEETH OF THE WINDING GEAR TR AIN

MOSER PERPETUAL 1

In spite of its complicated mechanism, the Flash Calendar

The date can be adjusted via the patented «Double Pull

is only recognizable on the dial by the large date display,

Crown» mechanism, which permits the crown to be set

which always centres even single-digit numbers in the

reliably in the right position.

window, and by the very restrained design of the lowest central hand for the display of the month with reference

The display for the leap year cycle of

to the twelve indices for the hours.

4 years is visible on the movement side of the watch through the convex sapphire glass back. The indicator star for

MONTH DISPL AY FROM THE CENTRE USING THE HOUR INDICES

the leap year cycle can be adjusted as required by means of an unobtrusive pin pusher on the outside of the case.

SIDE VIEW OF THE EXCLUSIVE GOLD CASE OF THE PERPETUAL 1 WITH THE BUT TON FOR ADJUSTING THE LEAP YEAR STAR

LEAP YEAR STAR

M O N A R D D AT E

MON A RD DAT E Timelessly elegant in appearance with centre seconds and

The interchangeable escapement module typical of Moser

a large date display: the Monard Date from Moser.

also ensures ease of servicing for the Monard Date. It is used by Moser for the fi rst time in the world and helps to

The Double Pull Crown mechanism makes it easy to

reduce the time required for adjustment when cleaning

locate the date adjustment position on the winding crown.

and servicing the watch.

As a result, adjustment of the different lengths of the months is performed with truly effortless ease, without

A further exclusivity is the patented execution of the

inadvertently changing the time.

escapement wheel and pallet fork in hardened solid gold with polished working surfaces. The ruby pallets of the

A power reserve of at least seven days when fully wound

pallet fork slide on the escapement wheel with low fric-

is assured by the Moser dual barrel that is connected in

tion. The watch is subjected to less wear, and its function

series. The actual power reserve of the watch is indicated

is more reliable.

via a differential gear on the movement side and is visible through the large sapphire glass back.

A three-part case made of precious metal with a discreetly convex sapphire glass encloses this special manufactory

As in all the other models, the complete wheel train of the

movement. Freely formed flanks on the bracelet lugs give

watch is executed with a special Moser tooth system,

the watch an individual, refi ned appearance. The sap-

which has been designed to provide optimal torque trans-

phire glass see-through back permits an uninterrupted

mission and a long service life. This ensures that the

view of the bridges with their characteristic Moser ground

watch continues to show the time reliably, even after run-

stripes. The seal, already familiar to all collectors and

ning for a long period.

featured on the historic watches as a guarantee of authenticity, is also visible through the sapphire glass back.

Screwed gold mounts, into which the synthetic ruby jewel bearings are pressed, complete the equipment of this extraordinary watch.

M O N A R D DAT E

REFERENCE NO. 342.502- 003 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.502 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DUAL BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE L ARGE DATE CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS VIA THE CROWN DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM SECONDS STOP FUNCTION SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD CL ASP

REFERENCE NO. 342.502- 002 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.502 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DUAL BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE L ARGE DATE CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS VIA THE CROWN DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM SECONDS STOP FUNCTION SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD RHODIUM-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD CL ASP

M O N A R D DAT E

REFERENCE NO. 342.502- 001 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DUAL BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE L ARGE DATE CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS VIA THE CROWN DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM SECONDS STOP FUNCTION SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BL ACK L ACQUERED DIAL REFERENCE NO. 342.502- 005 THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502 DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK DUAL BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD CL ASP POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE L ARGE DATE CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS VIA THE CROWN DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM SECONDS STOP FUNCTION SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD ARDOISE SL ATE DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PL ATINUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS DIAL OF THE CAL. HMC 342.502 SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK MOVEMENT WITH THE DATE RINGS

CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP

LYING ONE ON TOP OF THE OTHER

WITH SOLID PL ATINUM CL ASP

THE L A RGE DATE FROM MOSER The Monard Date captivates with

display, a leading zero or a blank panel would always be

its elegance and with the large date

visible for single-digit numbers. This is one reason why

change displayed at 6 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock in

Moser does not favour this solution.

the date window. Like the Moser Perpetual 1, this is in the form of

The date change of the Monard Date jumps forward by

two rings lying one on top of the

one day within one second at midnight every day and can

other. These are the upper ring

be adjusted as required by hand via the crown depending

with the numbers 1 to 15 and be-

on the length of the month, regardless of whether the

neath it the ring with the numbers

movement itself is changing at the same time.

16 to 31. This enables the use of THE L ARGE

significantly larger numbers than if 31 positions were to

The ability to adjust the date backwards at any time

MOSER DATE

be present on only a single ring.

is also a matter of course for Moser. An intricately designed clutch separates the movement from the adjust-

However, a further advantage is associated with this spe-

ment mechanism and in so doing ensures that nothing

cial design with two rings: Regardless of the size of each

unforeseen occurs.

individual digit, it is always centred in the middle of the window. This also applies to the digits 1 to 9. If the date were to consist of two individual digits, as in a large date

DATE ADJUSTMENT VIA THE CROWN

M O N A R D DAT E

DOUBLE PULL CROW N ( DPC ) MECH A NISM

Another world-fi rst can be

The DPC mechanism patented by Moser can be found in

found exclusively in the

all Moser watches with a date display and ensures that

Moser watches of the new

merely the position for date adjustment is reached by

era: the Double Pull Crown

pulling out the crown once until it stops. Only by then

(DPC) mechanism.

releasing the crown briefly, if necessary by giving it a light tap, and pulling it out once more until it stops is

DPC denotes the double pull

the crown able to move to the position for adjusting

on the crown required in

the hands.

this mechanism in order to

THREE POSITIONS OF

move from winding to ad-

Errors when adjusting the date or hands are now a thing

justment of the hands.

of the past.

The intermediate position

The master watchmakers at Moser have perfected even

THE WINDING CROWN

for adjustment of the date is relatively difficult to ÂŤsenseÂť

the smallest details of a mechanical watch.

with the customary detent function in all watches without DPC. As often as not, the crown is pulled out too far, and the time is then adjusted unintentionally instead of the date.

DOUBLE PULL CROWN ( DPC) MECHANISM

MONARD

MON A RD A watch with just three hands to indicate the time, but

An additional highlight of this exclusive watch is the use

incorporating a movement that is full of convincing inno-

of an escapement module, a world-fi rst. Its easy inter-

vations and ageless beauty: the Monard from Moser.

changeability helps to reduce the time required for adjustment when cleaning and servicing the watch.

The fascination of this watch lies in its puristic appearance and the renunciation of all fashionable special

The patented execution of the escapement wheel and

effects. Moser would not be Moser, however, if a hint of

pallet fork in hardened solid gold with highly polished

the spirit of the age, represented here by the case diameter

working surfaces to minimize friction is also an expres-

of 40.8 mm, had not found a place in the watch.

sion of the constant endeavour by the watchmakers at Moser to make something that is already special into

The typically three-dimensional Moser hands, in con-

something exceptional.

junction with the very clear layout of the dial with a light sun pattern ground fi nish, ensure excellent legibility of

The Cal. HMC 343.505 movement of the Monard was

the time. The centre seconds symbolizes both the passage

developed in-house as a hand-wound movement with true

of time and the function of the watch. Setting the watch

bevel wheels in the winding part and is used exclusively

accurately to the second is possible in conjunction with

by Moser. The bevel wheels and the extremely efficient

the seconds stop function when adjusting the hands.

Moser tooth system used throughout the wheel train counteract wear and in so doing ensure a long service life.

The Monard is equipped with the Moser dual barrel for a minimum power reserve of seven days when fully wound

All movements are individually numbered on the barrel

and incorporates a power reserve display that is visible

bridge and are recorded in the ledgers at Moser Schaff-

through the sapphire glass back on the movement side.

hausen AG. The seal on the movement, the screwed gold mounts and the special Moser ground stripes are an expression of the watchmakerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s art at its most accomplished.

MONARD

REFERENCE NO. 343.505- 013 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DUAL BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD CL ASP

REFERENCE NO. 343.505- 012 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DUAL BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD RHODIUM-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD CL ASP

MONARD

REFERENCE NO. 343.505- 017 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DUAL BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING ® WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BL ACK L ACQUERED DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD CL ASP

REFERENCE NO. 343.506- 016 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.506 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DUAL BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT MODULE PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD FUMÉ DIAL WITH FINE SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PALL ADIUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK MOVEMENT

CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP

CAL. HMC 343.505

WITH SOLID PALL ADIUM CL ASP

REFERENCE NO. 343.505- 015 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DUAL BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD ARDOISE SL ATE DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PL ATINUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID PL ATINUM CL ASP

MONARD

CEN T RE SECONDS

MOSER DUA L BA RREL To achieve the longest possible power reserve, the designers of the Monard have incorporated no fewer than two barrels into the movement. These are arranged in tandem, so that the power reserve is multiplied up to at least 7 days compared with only a single barrel. The actual winding springs are made from an unbreak-

CENTRE SECONDS HAND

able and corrosion-resistant Nivaflex material with a selflubricating surface.

One of the distinctive features of the Monard is the seconds hand originating from the centre of the motion

In order to keep the wearer informed at all times of the

work. This has the advantage that the individual, one-

power reserve of the watch, a special differential gear is

second steps can be read more accurately thanks to the

connected to the barrels. This gear ensures that the hand

great length of the hand.

for the power reserve display moves downwards continuously when the watch is running normally. When the

The time can be set accurately to the second via the crown

watch is wound, however, the hand will move upwards.

with the help of the seconds stop function.

This means that the actual status of both winding springs in the barrels is always indicated. Noblesse oblige: Both barrels of the Monard from Moser are supported in screwed gold mounts. The gold mount itself is fi xed in the barrel bridge by three brightpolished steel screws. These screws are not blued, but white, as has always been the case with Moser.

WHEEL TR AIN

SCREWED

WITH DUAL BARREL

GOLD MOUNT

M AY U

M AY U A fi ne, elegant watch with a certain hint of understate-

Applied, facetted and diamond-polished indices, but also

ment: the Mayu from Moser.

the dial with its hint of a sun pattern ground fi nish, play with the reflected sunlight.

The name of the watch is a tribute to Heinrich Moserâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fi rst wife, Charlotte Mayu. The family seat, Charlotten-

The three-dimensional hands, which are used only in

fels manor near Schaffhausen, was also named after her.

Moser watches, are optimally adapted to the dimensions of the watch in both length and form.

A timepiece with a decidedly elegant design: As a mechanical watch with a height of only 9.3 mm and with a

In this watch, too, the interchangeable escapement mod-

diameter of 38.8 mm, it is not too large for contemporary

ule used for the fi rst time by Moser offers high exclusivity.

tastes. The watchmakers at Moser have nevertheless suc-

It guarantees that the watch will retain its value and helps

ceeded in accommodating a large barrel in this volume.

to reduce the time taken for the cleaning and servicing

The result is a power reserve of 80 hours, which ensures

required by all mechanical watches about every five years.

that the watch will continue to run for more than three

Another world-fi rst is the execution of the escapement

days even without winding.

wheel and pallet fork in hardened solid gold with functionally optimized surfaces to minimize friction and the

The harmonious design of the dial is particularly

associated wear.

enhanced by the rare, large pocket watch seconds hand. Drawing on pocket watches for its inspiration, the lower

The Mayu has a three-part case made of precious metal

end of this subsidiary seconds display sits as close as pos-

with a discreetly convex sapphire glass and a see-through

sible to the minute ring. This position can only be

sapphire glass back.

achieved with a large movement designed specifically for the purpose without a movement retaining ring. The Mayuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cal. 321.503 movement thus exhibits an imposing diameter of 32 mm. This corresponds quite closely to 14 lines in horological terms.

M AY U

REFERENCE NO. 321.503- 005 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD CL ASP

REFERENCE NO. 321.503- 012 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD RHODIUM-PL ATED DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD CL ASP

M AY U

REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B13 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD TAHITIAN MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD 84 TOP WESSELTON DIAMONDS 1.28 CT DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK STINGR AY LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP

REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B14 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD LIGHT ROSE-COLOUR MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD 84 TOP WESSELTON DIAMONDS 1.28 CT DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK MOVEMENT

STINGR AY LEATHER STR AP

CAL. HMC 321.503

WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP

M AY U

REFERENCE NO. 325.503- 010 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 325.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT MODULE PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD FUMÉ DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PALL ADIUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID PALL ADIUM CL ASP

REFERENCE NO. 321.503- 003 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING ® WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD ARDOISE SL ATE DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PL ATINUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK MOSER MOVEMENT PL ATE

CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP

BEFORE WHEEL TR AIN ASSEMBLY

WITH SOLID PL ATINUM CL ASP

REFERENCE NO. 321.503- 007 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BL ACK L ACQUERED DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD CL ASP

M AY U

WHEEL S, PINIONS A ND LE V ERS

SECONDS STOP FUNCTION By pulling it out into the second position, the winding crown of the Mayu is also used to adjust the hands. To enable this to be done accurately to the second, the watch also has a seconds stop function. As the crown is pulled out, a stop spring is positioned against the white gold weight compensation screws of the balance and holds it securely. This causes the watch to stop, although the balance spring remains under tension. When the crown is pushed back into the normal position, the stop spring releases the balance once more and the watch starts to run immediately.

MAYU WHEEL TR AIN

To show the power reserve available at any time, Mayu watches with a see-through

The wheel train of the Mayu watches relies on centuries-

back have a display on the

old proven principles for its basic design. A couple of de-

movement side. This indicates

tails: An 8-day wheel is included between the barrel and

the

the great wheel, because the great wheel rotates under the

the «UP» position and, after

barrel. The third wheel and the fourth wheel are arranged

3 days, it will have covered

beneath a common bridge, which permits close tolerances

about 2/3 of the distance in

in the interests of high efficiency.

the «DOWN» direction.

fully-wound

state

The staff of the fourth wheel carries the seconds hand of the subsidiary seconds display on the dial side. At the same time, the fourth wheel also acts as the mechanical interface with the escapement module.

POWER RESERVE DISPL AY

HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

HENRY D OUBL E H A IRSPRIN G An exceptional tonneau watch with a Straumann double

A new escapement and a superlative horological achieve-

hairspring: the Henry Double Hairspring from Moser

ment, which naturally does not sacrifice the interchange-

with an exclusive rectangular-shaped movement.

ability that is typical of Moser escapements.

An exemplary innovation for the oscillating system, the

Set in a well-proportioned case in tonneau form, this

most complicated component of the mechanical watch,

latest masterpiece of the watchmaker’s art from Moser has

gives this movement its particular charisma. The legend-

a power reserve of at least four days when fully wound.

ary elegance of a Moser watch is combined here with a

Exclusive and unique to Moser, the execution of the

unique escapement designed to exclude gravitational

escapement wheel and the pallet fork in hardened, solid

error. Two Straumann balance springs manufactured as a

white gold is also retained as a distinguishing feature

matched pair, which oscillate against one another and by

of the Straumann double hairspring escapement.

so doing prevent the gravitational error of an escapement from occurring in the first place. Self-compensating and antimagnetic, of course. This system requires mastery of the manufacture of the balance springs – from the melting of the alloy to the fi nished spring – with appropriate technology and precision. This prerequisite is met within Moser Group AG with utmost dedication.

HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

REFERENCE NO. 324.607- 004 MOSER RECTANGUL AR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS L ARGE-VOLUME BARREL MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT MODULE PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH FINE SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN ROSE GOLD SAPPHIRE GL ASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD CL ASP

REFERENCE NO. 324.607- 002 MOSER RECTANGUL AR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS L ARGE-VOLUME BARREL MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT MODULE PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD RHODIUM-PL ATED DIAL WITH FINE SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN WHITE GOLD SAPPHIRE GL ASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD CL ASP

HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

REFERENCE NO. 324.607- 006 MOSER RECTANGUL AR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS L ARGE-VOLUME BARREL MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT MODULE PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD ARDOISE SL ATE DIAL WITH FINE SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN PL ATINUM SAPPHIRE GL ASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID PL ATINUM CL ASP

REFERENCE NO. 324.607- 003 MOSER RECTANGUL AR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS L ARGE-VOLUME BARREL MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT MODULE PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD FUMÉ DIAL WITH FINE SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN PALL ADIUM SAPPHIRE GL ASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK MOVEMENT

CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP

CAL. HMC 324.607

WITH SOLID PALL ADIUM CL ASP

S T R AUM A NN D OUBL E H A IRSPRIN G ESCA PEMEN T Yet again, the watchmakers at H. Moser & Cie have

and inventors at Moser. Accordingly, they searched for a

revolutionized the heart of the mechanical watch: this

compensation method with which to equalize this gravi-

time, the escapement. The balance springs, which in com-

tational error at its point of origin, rather than simply

bination with the balance are responsible for the basic

attempting to eliminate the effect of the error, as is the

rate of the watch, are of course still manufactured from

case with a tourbillon, for example. The result is the dou-

the self-compensating material, Nivarox.

ble hairspring escapement from Moser.

From a practical point of view, however, when bending the highly intricate overcoil on the spring, a minutely

In this escapement, two balance springs manufactured as

small residual error is always present, which prevents the

a matched pair are arranged so that they oscillate against

centre of gravity from remaining at the centre of the

one another. As a result, the centres of gravity of the

arbor â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a fact which naturally irritated the watchmakers

two springs move outwards and inwards on opposing symmetrical paths as they oscillate. The cumulative centre of gravity of the two springs thus remains at the centre of the arbor at all times, and as such has no negative influence on the accuracy of the watch.

STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING ÂŽ

SCREW BAL ANCE WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

The prerequisite to manufacturing such a complicated

CRUCIBLE WITH

escapement system, of course, is the ability to master

PE 3000 NIVAROX MELT

the production of the balance springs from melting the material to the fi nished spring. It is essential to be able to guarantee that both balance springs possess identical characteristic curves and attachments. H. Moser & Cie, working jointly with its associate company, Precision Engineering AG, has developed the Straumann Hairspring 速 on the basis of the formula drawn up by the original inventor of the Nivarox material, Prof. Dr. h.c. Reinhard Straumann. This has ensured that the material exhibits the necessary homogeneity and mechanical properties. What is more, the springs are manufactured so consistently that they are even able to ensure uniform compensation for any elasticity in the presence of temperatures fluctuations. In this way, the centre of gravity does not wander from the centre even in response to changes in temperature. This revolutionary escapement was named the Straumann Double Hairspring escapement in tribute to Prof. Dr. h.c. Reinhard Straumann, who patented the Nivarox material and the associated manufacturing technologies in 1931.

ESCAPEMENT MODULE WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

LIMITED COLLECTORS EDITIONS

T H E L IM I T ED COL L ECTORS EDI T I O NS FRO M M OSER Limited editions of individual watches symbolize a spe-

The Zarenadler (Imperial eagle) Mayu came about for a

cial event, particular techniques or unusual solutions.

different reason: On the one hand there was a desire to

This is also true of Moser.

refer to the roots of the company in Imperial Russia, and on the other hand Moserâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s two master engravers wished

One such example is the Moser Perpetual 1 set with

to demonstrate that they were still able to carry out the

brilliant-cut diamonds, which was introduced to mark the

exquisite art of relief engraving in a masterly manner. For

international relaunch of the H. Moser & C brand in

once, the sapphire glass back of a Mayu model was

2005, and which, with its specially formed bezel, ideally

replaced by a solid gold case back, which depicts the two-

lends itself for mounting with selected diamonds.

headed Russian Imperial eagle set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Naturally the movement beneath it is still a

Or the Monard and Mayu models with genuine ÂŤgrand

feast for the eyes. In order to set eyes on it, however, it

feuÂť enamel dials. This is an enamelling skill that

is necessary to look over the shoulders of a watchmaker

appeared almost to have died out, and Moser was deter-

during a service.

mined to have a limited edition with this type of dial. The Monard with its deep black enamel and the Mayu in gleam-

The yellow gold Mayu with a champagne-coloured

ing white enamel were released without even awaiting a

lacquered dial is also a special edition. Here the authen-

special event. The watchmakers at Moser simply wished

tic, subsidiary pocket watch seconds hand of all Mayu

to have them before this technique of coating metal with

and Perpetual models is brought to the fore. It is posi-

vitreous enamel fi red at a very high temperature was no

tioned next to the minute ring, as in the historic examples

longer mastered perfectly by any of the craftsmen.

of the pocket watches. This is indeed a rarity, because it also calls for a specially designed movement without the customary movement retaining ring. As this is feature common to all Moser watches of the new era, however, it was deemed worthy of an edition with an extraordinary choice of colour.

LIMITED EDITIONS

MOSER PERPETUAL 1 REFERENCE NO. 341.501-B04 LIMITED EDITION OF 200 PCS. MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DUAL BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM SECONDS STOP FUNCTION SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND DESIGNER CASE IN ROSE GOLD SET WITH 76 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP

MONARD REFERENCE NO. 343.505-L11 LIMITED EDITION OF 200 PCS. MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DUAL BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BL ACK ENAMELLED DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD CL ASP MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503-L02 LIMITED EDITION OF 50 PCS. MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD WHITE ENAMELLED DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD CL ASP

LIMITED EDITIONS

MAYU REFERENCE NO. 322.504-LB04 LIMITED EDITION OF 50 PCS. MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 322.504 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BL ACK L ACQUERED DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD SET WITH 64 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS HAND-ENGR AVED SOLID GOLD CASE BACK WITH 25 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD CL ASP

MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503- 004 LIMITED EDITION OF 50 PCS. MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE SECONDS STOP FUNCTION MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD CHAMPAGNE-COLOURED L ACQUERED DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN YELLOW GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK CROCODILE LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID YELLOW GOLD CL ASP

T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S

IN T ERCH A N GE A BL E ESCA PEMEN T M ODUL E The watchmakers at Moser have concerned themselves

The complete balance is a traditional screw balance with

from the outset with innovation combined with high cus-

weight compensation screws made of white gold and a

tomer benefit. In the watches of the new era, this fi nds

driver ellipse made of synthetic ruby; this is an aesthetic

expression in one component in particular: the escape-

work of art of a special kind in its own right. The materi-

ment module that is interchangeable as a unit. This was

als used in the balance and the balance spring are matched

developed with a view to reducing the time taken for

to one another in such a way that fluctuations in

adjustment when cleaning and servicing the watch about

temperature have no noticeable effects on the accuracy

every 5 years. The watchmaker concerned removes the

of the watch.

complete module, cleans and oils the rest of the movement and installs an already cleaned and adjusted module. Job done. At the same time, the escapement module itself is optimized in line with the latest knowledge. There are no longer any temperamental indices, for example. Adjustment of the oscillating frequency of the balance is performed via the cross-slotted steel screws around the periphery of the balance. To prevent these from moving of their own accord due to vibrations, a

BAL ANCE WITH PL ATE, ELLIPSE AND STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速

slot has been made through the screw thread. As a result, the

Since the balance has a relatively high mass, it is protected

SPRING SLOT FOR

screw is constantly under spring pressure and is secured

from shocks. The balance staff has high-precision,

THE ADJUSTING SCREW

in this way. Just how difficult this is to manufacture will

roller-burnished conical pivots and is carried in a bearing

be appreciated when the diameter of the screw holes is

with the capacity to yield in the presence of shocks and

taken into consideration: a tiny 0.35 mm.

thus prevents fracture of the pivots, which are only 0.08 mm thick.

T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S

Given all this horological love for detail, it is no surprise to fi nd that the balance spring is formed with a Breguet terminal curve. This curve is the only one to provide reliable assurance that the centre of gravity of the spiral spring will not be displaced as it oscillates, thereby creating unequal oscillation periods in different positions. The escapement wheel and pallet fork are manufactured by Moser from gold using a patented process. This offers the particular advantage that the vertical working surfaces are generally executed with a glass-smooth fi nish. The friction between the synthetic ruby escape pallets and THE DR AGON LEVER FOR ADJUSTING THE ESCAPEMENT TR AVEL

the club teeth of the escape wheel is reduced to a minimum in this way.

A further important consideration for the accuracy is the

Moser repeatedly used gold wheels

facility to adjust the pallet fork very precisely in conjunc-

in its movements in the past.

tion with the escapement wheel. For this purpose, too, the people at Moser have come up with something new: the dragon lever. This stop lever is supported in two eccentric screws, by means of which the stop surfaces can be positioned very precisely in relation to the pallet fork. Since the pallet fork is made of gold and the dragon lever is made of brass, any vibrations in conjunction with stopping are well damped. The eccentrics are only accessible from below via a slot, so they are no longer capable of adjustment once the escapement module has been installed in the movement.

GOLD PALLET WHEEL WITH STEEL PINION

T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S

T H E S T R AU M A NN H A IRSPRIN G ® The consistent oscillation of the balance spring, in con-

spring ®. In tribute to their inven-

junction with the balance, is solely responsible for the

tor, the brand names Straumann

precise running and the accuracy of the watch. The Moser

Spirale®, Spiral Straumann® and

development engineers have accordingly devoted a high

Straumann Hairspring® now ben-

degree of attention to it. Working closely with its associate

efit from international protection.

company, Precision Engineering AG, and drawing on the know-how of Institut Straumann AG, the original formula

The precise combination of all the

and technology of the legendary Nivarox material have

highest-grade materials in the

been reviewed. It was Prof. Dr. h.c. Reinhard Straumann

smelting charge and the processing of the raw ingot with

FL AT-ROLLING

– the grandfather of our present Board member, Dr. h.c.

a diameter of about 20 cm and a weight of 80 kg into a

TO AN ACCUR ACY

Thomas Straumann – who in 1931 developed a fracture-

wire with a diameter of only 0.075 mm – thinner than a

OF 0,1 애 m

resistant, self-compensating, corrosion-free and antimag-

human hair – demand technological expertise acquired

netic alloy consisting of seven elements, and applied for a

over the generations and the very best tools. Yet only the

patent for this invention. The patent describes the fi rst

fi nal homogeneity of the wire and the ultra-precise rolling

concrete formulation, which exhibits the desired character-

of the round wire into flat strip can provide the condi-

istics and also fi nds an application in watches as a balance

tions necessary for balance springs that are sufficiently

spring material. It is still in use today, in slightly modified

accurate for use in chronometers, self-compensating and

form, in practically all high-quality, volume-produced

antimagnetic. The wire for the Straumann Hairspring ®

movements with a mechanical oscillating system. For

springs is thus flat-rolled to an astounding accuracy of

many years, production of this material was supervised by

0.1 thousandth of a millimetre.

Straumann in the interests of quality assurance. These activities were taken over a few years ago by Precision Engineering AG, which has now installed its own, complete production line, from melting of the alloy to the fi nished escapement system, working jointly with H. Moser & Cie. All escapement modules from H. Moser & Cie are equipped exclusively with the Straumann Hair-

THE PATENTS FOR THE NIVAROX MATERIAL

HAMMERING THE GLOWING

OF REINHARD STR AUMANN

NIVAROX MATERIAL

SAWING THE INGOT

T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S

THE CR A F TSM A N’S A RT The watchmaker’s art manifests itself not only through technically accomplished solutions. Individual features of the component parts are worked out with loving attention to detail. One example of this is the sun pattern ground fi nish on the plates of all Moser movements that is only visible to the watchmaker. This is subsequently revealed BEVELLED EDGES AND

when the watch is completely dismantled into its indi-

GOLD ENGR AVINGS

vidual parts on the watchmaker’s workbench. A large number of Moser watches of the new era actually

The dual ground stripes on the bridges that are so typical

feature a see-through sapphire glass back, through which

of Moser and the fi ne gold engraving are as obvious as the

the beauty of the movements can be appreciated from the

tireless oscillations of the screw balance.

outside. Another entirely traditional Moser feature is the arrangeBevelled and polished edges are visible in this way, and

ment of the third wheel and the fourth wheel together

the jewels sparkle in the light.

beneath the same train-wheel bridge, which exhibits the typical convex form around the jewel bearings. Also present on the train-wheel bridge is the Moser seal in gold, which guarantees authenticity both in the historic watches and in the watches of the new era.

THE MOSER SEAL

DIAL SIDE OF CAL. HMC 343.505 CR AFTSMANSHIP IN ITS FINEST FORM

TE AM SPIRIT AND SPECIALISTS

SPECIALISTS

T E A M SPIRI T A ND SPECI A L IS TS Heinrich Moserâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s visionary views are recorded in many

with specialists in the manufacture of the fi nest and most

of his letters. They also contain horological principles

accurate precision components, can be found here. MSG

which remain valid to this day: If you want to build the

AG develops technologies, tools, jigs and fi xtures and

best watches, you must go to the best suppliers for the

production processes at the leading edge of technology.

individual components. Only these specialist, whose

This expertise and these processes are then passed on to

knowledge has been passed down through the genera-

the traditional supplier for incorporation into its series

tions, are actually in a position to transform their crafts-

production.

manship into real watch parts. Only by working with them, in their environment, with their networks and their

It is only in this way and in close cooperation with these

particular strengths, are such peak performances still

specialists that H. Moser & Cie is today in a position to

achievable.

accomplish innovations and world-fi rsts for the benefit of its customers all around the globe.

That is certainly one of the reasons why Heinrich Moserâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s watchmaking business was already established in Le Locle in 1828, and why present-day Moser watches are once again being made in the Swiss Jura. By far the greatest proportion of the individual component parts are still produced in enterprises in this region of Switzerland even today. Nevertheless, the merger of the Moser Group in 2007 also includes MSG AG Manufacturing Support Group. The most modern machines and technologies, but also the premises for the Group as a whole, are gathered together in this company. The best horological know-how, along

OPTICAL INSPECTION WITH A PROJECTOR

TR AIN-WHEEL BRIDGE

The designers and watchmakers discuss their ideas with the suppliers at a very early stage, so that their knowledge and possibilities can already be taken into account at the outline stage. This ensures that the parts produced are truly optimal in terms of quality and surface fi nish, but also in terms of a beauty all of their own.

SPECIALISTS

H. Moser & Cie has no aspirations to be a manufactory. Nevertheless, a great deal of horological know-how and technological expertise exist in the Moser Group, so that the Moser movements can be described justifiably as pure manufactory movements. The watches themselves also merit manufactory status, because they are assembled by hand in one of the best workshops in the Swiss Jura. In view of the extreme dimensions and tolerances, the individual parts of the watches are produced by machine in most cases. Concessions would otherwise have to be made in the quality of the movements. This would not be compatible with the present-day opportunities, and not at all with the ambitions of H. Moser & Cie.

SPECIALISTS

The fi nishing process again makes use of traditional craft methods. No machine can produce a truly beautifully polished chamfered edge on the bridges and plates. Hand work is just as necessary here as it is for the polished fi nish and the brushed surfaces of the case or the sun pattern ground fi nish under the barrel. The typical Moser ground stripes on the plates are also pure hand work. The Swiss watchmakerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s art in its fi nest form in the watches and movements of H. Moser & Cie is the result of this unremitting quest for perfection.

PE 3000 NIVAROX CT INGOT â&#x20AC;&#x201C; THE BASIC MATERIAL FOR STR AUMANN BAL ANCE SPRINGS

TIM EL INE 1730

Johannes Moser, grandfather of Heinrich Moser, is born in Schaffhausen. After an apprenticeship as a watchmaker, he assumes the honorary position of town watchmaker. He later becomes a magistrate in the local court.

1760

Erhard Moser, father of Heinrich Moser, is born in Schaffhausen. He succeeds his father in the position of town watchmaker, and he is a member of the Cantonal Council and Town Commissioner.

1805

Johann Heinrich Moser is born on 12 December. He learns the traditional watchmakerâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s craft from his father between 1820 and 1824.

1824

Heinrich Moser continues his training in Le Locle in the master watchmakersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; workshops in the town. He rapidly gains respect as a skilled watchmaker, and he starts a small business to supply spare parts. After about eighteen months, Moser receives offers of work from Italy and Paris.

1826

Moser works on his own account for the fi rst time by building clocks into cases and pieces of furniture.

1827

The prospects of good business draw Moser to St. Petersburg. After an adventurous journey, he starts work as a watchmaker in the local workshops.

1828

Moser opens the trading company H. Moser & Co. in St. Petersburg. His watches are characterized by their high quality. Not a single watch is allowed to pass over the shop counter until it has been inspected personally by him or by one of his representatives. The business is very successful.

1829

In order to maintain this claim to superior quality, Moser establishes a watch factory in Le Locle to produce watches exclusively for his businesses.

1848

Moser returns to Schaffhausen as a prosperous merchant and watch manufacturer. He sees his new challenge as the transformation of the quiet town of Schaffhausen into a lively and attractive industrial location. At the same time, he builds the magnificent Charlottenfels country manor house for his family.

1851

Moser completes the construction of a canal on the Rhine, which supplies the water to drive a turbine.

TIMELINE

1853

In a joint venture with other Schaffhausen personalities, Moser establishes Schweizerische Waggonfabrik bei Schaff hausen (Swiss Wagonworks at Schaffhausen) and Schweizerische Industriegesellschaft (SIG) Neuhausen (Swiss Industrial Company Neuhausen). Moser is a co-founder of the Schaffhausen –Winterthur railway line. He opens a workshop for the manufacture of watch cases in Schaffhausen.

1860

Moser becomes a customer of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Over time, he sources up to 64 different calibres, including 24 complications.

1863

Moser embarks on the construction of the largest Swiss dam on the Rhine, to supply neighbouring industrial companies with inexpensive energy via a power transmission system. This hydroelectric power station marks the start of the industrial age in Schaffhausen.

1868

Moser supports Ariosto Jones in the foundation of the International Watch Company (IWC), by providing premises and energy to drive the machines.

1874

Heinrich Moser dies on 23 October. His will names his second wife, Fanny Moser, as the heiress of all his business interests.

1877

Fanny Moser sells the entire Russian trading operation as well as the watch factory in Le Locle to the respective general managers. The contracts of sale stipulate that all successor companies must continue to operate in perpetuity under the company names «H. Moser & Cie» or «Heinrich Moser & Co.».

1917

The Russian October Revolution completely eradicates the watch market in the country that is dominated by the Swiss watchmakers. The last of the Swiss Directors of the Moser company return to Switzerland totally expropriated in early 1918. The business in Le Locle attempts to compensate for the loss of the Russian markets through increased exports to other countries.

1920

The State-owned «Central Watch Repair Workshop» in Moscow is formed from the remains of the Moser watch businesses.

1953

Wristwatch production in Le Locle is expanded, and the proportion of pocket watches produced decreases steadily. Some of the watches also bear the name «Henry Moser», in spite of this being in breach of the 1877 agreements.

1973

H. Moser & Co. is mentioned as a manufacturer of precision lever escapement watches and special watches, predominantly in 18-carat gold and in cases set with precious stones. The quartz watch crisis that is widespread in the Swiss watch industry also affects the business in Le Locle.

1979

The watch factory in Le Locle becomes part of the Dixi Mechanique Group and trades as «Hy Moser & Cie».

2002

The original brand of the founder, H. Moser & Cie, is once more registered internationally by Dr. Jürgen Lange. The Moser Schaffhausen AG watch company is launched jointly with representatives of Heinrich Moser’s family as a successor company. The great-grandson of Heinrich Moser, Roger Nicholas Balsiger, is today Honorary Chairman of the Board of Directors.

2005

To mark the bicentenary of Heinrich Moser’s birth, the successor company Moser Schaffhausen AG, under the H. Moser & Cie brand, is once again launching a range of watches that are faithful to the legacy of the founding father on the international watch arena.

2006

H. Moser & Cie introduces its 4 watch ranges, Moser-Perpetual 1, Monard Date, Monard and Mayu, to a broad public for the fi rst time at «BaselWorld 2006».

2006

The collaboration with the internationally renowned Wirz Werbung AG Zürich is also announced at «BaselWorld 2006», and the new communications platform is presented.

2006

Montre de l’année 2006 – 2nd prize for the Moser Perpetual 1. In the opinion of the professional jury of the special-interest watch magazine, Montre Passion: «The classic case of the Perpetual 1/ Flash Calendar from Moser conceals a highly innovative mechanical movement».

2006

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – Prix de la Montre Compliquée. In November 2006, H. Moser & Cie wins one of the most highly coveted prizes of the Swiss horological industry. The Moser Perpetual 1 takes fi rst place in the complicated watches category.

TIMELINE

2007

«BaselWorld 2007» is the venue where H. Moser & Cie introduces the Straumann Hairspring ®, developed jointly over several years with its associate company Precision Engineering AG, Schaffhausen, to an international specialist audience.

2007

The new Henry Double Hairspring watch line, a tonneau watch with the revolutionary double hairspring escapement from Moser, is presented at «BaselWorld 2007».

2007

Palladium, an extremely rare precious metal with a brilliantly radiant white lustre, also embraces the realm of watches from H. Moser & Cie. The Mayu Palladium model is presented to the public.

2007

Moser Group AG is formed from Moser Schaffhausen AG. All the associate companies are now united under a single roof. Moser Schaff hausen AG, Precision Engineering AG and MSG AG Manufacturing Support Group together guarantee the independence, the considerable public success and the substantial growth of the H. Moser & Cie brand.

2008

The H. Moser & Cie brand celebrates its 180th anniversary.

2008

The Mayu Black Pearl and Mayu White Pearl with mother-of-pearl dials and elegant stingray leather straps are launched.

2008

The Mayu Palladium is equipped with the Straumann double hairspring escapement with escapement wheel and pallet fork in hardened white gold. An external indication of this is provided by the new colour used for the dial.

COPYRIGHT 2010 BY MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG ALL PRODUCT DESIGNS AS WELL AS THE TR ADEMARKS, REGISTERED OR NOT, PRESENTED IN THIS CATALOGUE, ARE PROTECTED AND REMAIN THE EXCLUSIVE PROPERT Y OF MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG. FOR BR ANDS PRESENTED IN THIS CATALOGUE WHICH DO NOT BELONG TO MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG, THE COPYRIGHT IS PROPERT Y OF THE CORRESPONDING COMPANIES. TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS AND AVAIL ABILIT Y OF ALL MODELS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE.

Project Manager Pictures

DR. JÜRGEN R. L ANGE MANFRED DUBACH, ERNST MÜLLER, K ATHARINA LOCHS, MARCEL STUDER, SAR AH L ANGE, SAMMLUNG HOMBERGER, CARL J. KOCH, STADTARCHIV SCHAFFHAUSEN

Art Direction

MANFRED DUBACH & K ATHARINA LOCHS

Layout

DUBACH.DIGITAL GMBH, GÄCHLINGEN

Digital Processing

DUBACH.DIGITAL GMBH, GÄCHLINGEN

Print Bookbinder

STAMM + CO. AG, SCHLEITHEIM BUCHBINDEREI GROLLIMUND AG, REINACH

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