Groove March 2016 by Groove Korea

EDITORIAL

March 2016

lthough it may not quite feel like Spring yet over the peninsula, there is plenty to get us ready for the warmer season. This month sees the return of festivals, plentiful sporting events and a lot of activities for you to get your teeth into. Whatever your nationality, St. Patrick’s Day brings out the Irish in all of us. As this year’s Seoulbased festivities draw nearer, we take a look at the Irish Association of Korea’s preparations and hear from one of the traditional Irish music groups taking part. In addition, Liam Ring finds out how this year's events are shaping up and speaks to Carlow-born Deputy Head of Mission David Murphy about his role at the Embassy of Ireland. Naomi Blenkinsop attends a candle-making workshop and also goes Underground in Hongdae for the scoop on the latest British

C N O VT EH R O E

March 2016

We may be far away from the Emerald Isle, but that is unlikely to temper any spirits intent on celebrating Ireland’s national holiday. This month sees the Irish Association of Korea and the Embassy of Ireland at their busiest as everyone gets ready to enjoy one of the more boisterous events of the year. Roll on March 19 at D-Cube in Sindorim! Cover Photo by SHUTTERSTOCK

bar addition to the area. Hallie Bradley discovers the romance in the mesmerising Swan Lake and Simon McEnteggart previews three of K-Film's mixed genre releases. Emma Kalka is finding out about OneSun's plans for In Too Deep and also speaks to numerous MC's to give a historic account of MasterPlan in the first of a two-part special. Warmer weather means heading outside for the sportsmen and women on the peninsula, and two of Seoul’s premier sports clubs – Seoul Gaels and Seoul Survivors - will be heading into their new seasons with plenty of ambition. Steve Price ponders if anyone can wrestle the K-League title from Jeonbuk’s grasp while Luke Butcher gets all tingly over the new Korean Baseball season. The ending of the winter season doesn’t mean a complete end to winter sporting favorites however,

as Gecko’s ice hockey will still be skating well into the warmer months. In Travel, Thomas Godfrey catches up with a few nonSeoulites about their experiences in the Korean countryside while Cale Noonan heads to the mountains of Chungju for a weekend retreat away from the city. Heading overseas, Vivian Chan shares her experiences from Uzbekistan and the Old Silk Road. For some food treats, Diana Weber looks at The Vault while Jordan Redmond and Yoo-jin Oh check out some hidden dining delights around Seochon. Rob Shelley also reveals Hand and Malt's new thang which kinda brings us back full circle to the drinking. And to St Patrick's Day. Whether you are starting a new season, new semester or just have a new spring in your step, say goodbye to the snow and a big welcome to the warmer season.

What's in this issue Vol. 113 March 2016

EDITORIAL

Take a trip to the gateway of the Silk Road

KEY PEOPLE Meet Groove’s editorial team and a few of our talented contributors

WHAT'S ON Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

NATIONAL NEWS A victim of Japanese sexual enslavement dies at 90

NATIONAL NEWS Korea's firstever hologram demonstration

NATIONAL NEWS A pastor murders his daughter and prays for resurrection

INSIGHT 24

FROM NORTH TO SOUTH Three defectors talk about a life-changing decision

COMMUNITY 28

A DAY TO BE IRISH Ireland's national holiday celebrates Seoul-style

www.groovekorea.com March 2016

WISHES COME TRUE AT SOAPY GENIE Candles, bath salts and other intriguing workshop wonders

SEOUL INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S ASSOCIATION The women's association gets ready for its annual charity event

ENTERTAINMENT 40

TAPPING TO A TRADITIONAL CELTIC BEAT Get (Irish) traditional for St. Patrick’s Day

MASTER PLAN: THE BIRTHPLACE OF UNDERGROUND HIP-HOP The history behind Seoul's hip hop underground

FROM THE EMERALD ISLE TO THE LAND OF THE MORNING CALM The Embassy of Ireland's Deputy Head of Mission discusses his first diplomatic posting

GOING UNDERGROUND The latest British bar addition to Hongdae with a tube train and everything.

SPORT 50

KBO FANS FROM THE CASUAL TO THE HARDCORE FORM GROWING COMMUNITIES Get ready for the tightest KBO race in years

SABR AND MYKBO ARE THE BEST PLACES FOR SHARING YOUR LOVE OF KOREAN BASEBALL There is a lot more to SABR than just the love of a good statistic

KEEPING THE UNDERGROUND ALIVE OneSun reveals why he is In Too Deep

THE JOY OF THE ANGELS An orphanage with a difference

THREE BY …GENRE The K-Film releases this month with a mixed bag to choose from

THE WONDERFUL WORLD OF NATIONAL ASSEMBLY ELECTIONS April 13 is Election Day and we find out who is in the running

SWANS OF SEDUCTION UBC bring the wonderful production to Seoul to kick start this year's ballet season

p.42

Keeping the underground alive

What's in this issue Vol. 113 March 2016

Effortless all-day eating and exploring in one of Seoul's hippest neighborhoods

TRAVEL

SOCCER’S BACK! Domestic soccer's back but can anyone stop Jeonbuk? FC SEOUL’S FOREIGN DEVILS: THE DIABLOS FC Seoul's foreign supporter's club get set for 2016

58/59

GEARING UP FOR THE NEW KICK-OFF Two of Seoul premier expat clubs hit the field

ICE ICE BABY Get your (ice) skates on with one of Seoul's premier expatriate ice hockey clubs

FOOD&DRINK

www.groovekorea.com March 2016

THESIS COFFEE A new Gangnam cafe for the coffee connoisseur

SWELTERING TENTACLES AT GWANGJU SIKDANG Fitfully spicy food at this charming hole-in-the-wall

BITE OF THE MONTH Some of the best beef noodles from Seoul's Chinatown RESTAURANT BUZZ & COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH DINING IN THE DARK Dining in the dark-one of Seoul's most unique dining experences

A LIGHTHOUSE IN UNCHARTERED WATERS One of Korea's best breweries has a new taproom in Seoul.

A SEOCHON FOODIE DATE COURSE The perfect springtime foodie date in one of Seoul's hippest neighborhoods GET YOUR SLICES RIGHT HERE Outstanding authentic pies and wings

LIFE ON THE OUTSIDE Wanted Seoul and ended up in the country? A look at what expat life is like outside of the city

SUANBO: A TOWN MADE TO PLEASE Escaping the city with a weekend retreat in the mountains of Chungju

UZBEKISTAN –TRAVEL TO THE LESS TRAVELED Take a trip down the Silk Road

GROOVE LISTINGS p.50

Big names leaving for America means the gap between teams is wafer thin

Key people

Peter Kim

is a food and restaurant photographer who is always thinking about his next foodie adventure. You can follow him on Instagram (peterkimphotography) and see more of his work at peterkimphotography.com.

Luke Butcher

Barbara Bierbrauer

is a freelance reporter. After working as a researcher in Germany she currently enjoys living in Songdo IFEZ, dividing her time between her husband, kids, dogs and work.

is a freelance sports journalist who works full time at the National Election Commission of South Korea. He has also worked as a sports reporter for Arirang Radio's morning show. Originally from the UK, he has taken an interest in a wide variety of sports from football to baseball and tennis to racing.

Cale Noonan

was brought up in the small town of Ladysmith on Vancouver Island, Canada. Never one to stay put, he’s found himself working quite a few of jobs in his life. To make ends meet now, he teaches English to little kids in Seoul. In his spare time, he enjoys traveling, reading, and havin’ a time out on the old salt chuck with the b’ys. Cale is always on the lookout for good cups of coffee, decent music, and delicious food from around the world.

10 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Naomi Blenkinsop

lives in Seoul but originally hails from Quebec. After completing her degree, she lived in Montreal for many years before making the big move to South Korea. Now, she teaches EFL in Gangnam and loves working with children. When not in the classroom, she enjoys cooking, practising yoga or exploring new places around the peninsula.

Tom Godfrey

is a writer and photographer from small town Massachusetts. He has been living in Korea for nearly 5 years. He enjoys riding his bicycle, learning to cook Korean food, and traveling around the country. He stays motivated to travel by maintaining a blog of travel photography at tomgodfreyphotos.tumblr.com.

KOREA 5th floor, Shinwoo Bldg. 5-7 Yongsan 3-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea.

Contact info (010) 5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 Advertising ads@groovekorea.com General inquiries info@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

naheen MADARBAKUS naheen@groovekorea.com ASSISTANT EDITOR

liam RING liam@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL

COMMUNITY INSIGHT FOOD & DRINK ENTERTAINMENT TRAVEL SPORTS

naheen MADARBAKUS naheen@groovekorea.com anita MCKAY anita@groovekorea.com charlotte HAMMOND food@groovekorea.com naheen MADARBAKUS naheen@groovekorea.com naheen MADARBAKUS naheen@groovekorea.com liam RING liam@groovekorea.com COPY EDITORS

gil coombe W RITERS & CONTRIBUTORS

Patrick Hyland, Luke Butcher,Paul Carver Steven Price, Celeste Maturen, Naomi Blenkinsop Park Hyun-Soo, Cale Noonan, Vivian Chan Thomas Godfrey, Hallie Bradley, Emma Kalka Simon McEnteggart, Hyun-soo Park, Jordan Redmond Yoo-jin Oh, Peter Kim, Diana Weber, Jason Newland, Jay Steingold, Andy Hume, Bobby Kim, Barbara Bierbrauer, Harry Dean, Seoul Gaels, Gecko’s Ice Hockey, The Diablos, Korea Baseball Organisation, Steve Waddell, Peter Kim, Laura Robertson, Ariane Murphy, Working Holiday Information Center, Michael O'Dwyer, Drew Goldberg, DJ GASS from Side B, DJ Soulscape, Artisan Beats, NUCK, Just Music, Steve Smith, Universal Ballet Company, HanCinema, Juda, SIWA, Nick Bruneau, Vincent McCarthy, Jin Hyoung Joung, Kiki Fastino Translators Oh Sun-taek, Park Jae-man Illustrators Gag Sokolat ART & DESIGN

ART DIRECTOR luke LELONKIEVITZ Luke@groovekorea.com MARKETING & ADMINISTRATION

CFO steve seung-jin LEE MARKETING DIRECTOR peter CHONG ACCOUNTING yi-seul OH

W EB & MOBILE

HIMES DESIGN www.himesdesign.com FINCH PROFESSTIONAL SERVICES www.finchproservices.com PUBLISHER

sean CHOI sean@groovekorea.com

To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor. To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com. To contribute to groovekorea, promote an event or share your opinions, please email naheen@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor. The articles are the sole property of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.

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What's on MON

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MARCH CALENDAR

Orques ta Buena Vis ta Social Club â&#x20AC;&#x153;Adios Tour @ Olympic Park

13 Hours: T he Secret Soldiers of Benghazi

Jeju D (fire) F @ Ma

T homas Hampson @ Seoul Arts Center 10

Gods of Egypt

T he Benefactor

Risen 14

T homanerchor Leipzig & Gewandhausorches ter @ Seoul Arts Center

Anes t hesia

Seoul Baby @ aT Center in March

Bat man v Superman: Dawn of Jus t ice

T he Beach Boys live @ Conrad Seoul

14 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Tongyeong Oys ter Fes t ival / Gyeongnam Province

T he 160t h Anniversary Concer t of Schumann`s Deat h : Rober t Alexander Schumann @ CSeoul Arts Center Musical MATA HARI @ Blue Square in Hannamdong Seoul

Nonsan St rawberry Fes t ival / March 30-April 3 / Chungnam Provincerhkd

MARCH 2016 FRI

Deulbul Fes t ival arch 3-6

SAT

Busan Baby Fair @ March 3-6

Marc Minkowski & Les Musiciens du Louvre @ Seoul Arts Center

Ret urn to Sender

London Has Fallen

y Kids Fair Yangjae Seoul / h 10-13

SUN

Joy

Gurye Sansuyu Flower Fes t ival / March 19-27 Jeonnam Province

St.Patric's Day

17 March

Gwangyang Apricot Blossom Fes t ival March 18-27

Candy Dulfer live @ Busan

THE NEQ live ‘Passing of Illusion’ @ Veloso, Hongdae Seoul

Candy Dulfer live @ aKBS Hall, Yeouido Seoul

Happy Bir t hday Bach, Encore @ Seoul Arts Center

My Big Fat Greek Wedding 2

Brian Crain concer t @ Gangnamgu Community Center

Korean Oriental Medicine at the Lee Moon Won Clinic USING ALTERNATIVE MEDICINES FOR MODERN PRACTICES Story and Photos by: Lee Moon Won Clinic

The clinic specializes in the safe use of ingredients in their medicines and customizing programs for over 50,000 people from all over the world.

Korea’s Medicine Culture South Korea is becoming more and more popular for its tourism every year. In a dynamic capital city like Seoul, the lifestyle of its people enjoys a rich culture of K-pop, unique natural landscapes across the peninsula, plentiful shopping centers, and traditional experience cultural programs to create unforgettable memories for everyone who visits the Land of the Morning Calm. Not only is the country rich in cultural traditions but a more modern addition to the country’s roaring tourism trade is Korea’s reputable medical tourism. Riding ahead of the competition with high-tech healing capabilities, alternative medicine or Korean Oriental Medicine, gives both visitors and clients a general understanding of its treatment principals and methods. For the alternative method known as green chemistry natural treatment, the use of ginseng tea, alcohol ginseng liqueur or similar natural ingredients can be used to treat a long list of ailments and symptoms. What is Korean Medicine? Korean Medicine seeks a complete balance between the human body’s construction and one’s interaction with nature. Korean medical specialist Dr. Lee Moon Won, who is the founder of the Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine

Clinic, explains “a human being is part of nature and for treatment for our ailments, we should look to nature.” The clinic provides a myriad of treatment which focuses not only on decreasing the strength of the disease’s symptoms, but also on healing important body functions Each case is subject to an individual treatment plan with patients given courses in each unique case. Irrespective of the illness, treatment can vary depending on the patient’s condition. The clinic specializes in specific combinations for individuals, focusing on the use of herbs that can be used which forces the body to recover from the illness to its original functions; hence the clinic’s motto of bringing an overall balance and unity to one’s body. Korean Medicine and Treatment Korean Medicine is also widely used in the treatment of cancer and infertility. Dr Lee reports that from the current patients undergoing cancer treatments at regular hospitals, more that 50% have been reported as having enhanced treatment results with the usage of Korean medicine. Korean medicine can also be used in a customized form, using a unique formula for each patient, which combines natural ingredients and the ‘green chemistry’ which is beneficial for patients of all ages. What are the medicinal herbs used in Korean

moonwon lee lmw_info 070-7492-5258 lmw_info leemoonwon.international @gmail.com Medicine? Medicinal herbs, such as ginseng, gardenia, rehmannia and others can be easily obtained from open traditional markets in Korea. According to Korean Ministry of Food and Drug safety, the herbs sold in Korean markets are divided into two main categories of food and beverage use and for medicinal use. Although anyone can buy the herbs and use these at home for beauty treatments and for promoting a healthy diet in the food and beverage category, many clinics in Korea have come to use these specially categorized herbs for medicinal treatments. The Ministry has stated that everything in the market belonging to the food and beverage category cannot be used by Korean Medicine specialized clinics or hospitals.Those which have been passed as ‘Medicine use’ herbs have passed numerous multi stage control tests. Each herb must be the highest in quality and organic in origin. Doctors can only use herbs in the ‘medicine use’ category with further restrictions meaning that they are only delivered by special organizations who are licensed to supply these proper category herbs and who have official permission to distribute them. These processes are controlled by law and are subject to strict court actions if any person is found to be breaking the law.

Korea is purported to be the country where Oriental medicine was first established. All Korean medicine specialists must have studied Korean Medicine at university level which reinforces each individual and effective method of prescription that can be varied in taste, price and quality for each patient by doctors. Korean Medicine and hair loss The Lee Won Moon Medicine Clinic is known as a specialized clinic for hair loss and scalp treatment. The clinic is a Korean Medicine institution which has provided a no-side effects treatment for over 13 years. The methods and results of treatments satisfy not only domestic residents, but overseas patients, who are coming from far and wide to recover their hair condition in Korea. The clinic specializes in the safe use of ingredients in their medicines and customizes programs for over 50,000 people from all over the world. No question is too difficult for Lee Won Moon to find the answer for natural hair regeneration. For a consultation, patients can receive a professional diagnosis, treatment programs and customized Korean medicine treatments to improve not only hair condition, but overall body conditioning too. To receive a personal 90 minute consultation, make a reservation now.

NATI ONAL NE WS

All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity. The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

In association with March 2016 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com

‘COMFORT WOMAN’ AND ACTIVIST DIES AT 90; 44 REMAIN

18 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Kyung-soon, who survived sexual enslavement at the hands of the Imperial Japanese Army during World War II, died February 20 at Asan Medical Center in Seoul. She was 90 years old. The cause was chronic illness, according to the civilian organization Korean Council for the Women Drafted for Military Sexual Slavery by Japan. Kim’s death means that there are now just 44 surviving “comfort women” registered with the Korean government. For the past two dozens years, Kim, a member of the council, worked as a longtime activist to draw international attention to the plight of the tens of thousands of girls and women forced to work in Jap-

anese military brothels throughout Asia during the early 20th century. According to the council, Kim had been coerced into sexual slavery at a military brothel in Hiroshima at the age of 19. She first spoke out about her past in 1992, and was a strong voice thereafter in spreading awareness about around the brutalities Korea’s comfort women endured and a regular at the weekly Wednesday rallies held in front of the Japanese Embassy in Seoul, where activists have gathered for years to demand an official apology Tokyo. Kim was also one of the survivors who testified in person for a Japanese government investigation into the comfort women issue, which eventually led Japanese Chief Cabinet Secretary Yohei Kono to issue in August 1993 a landmark state-

ment acknowledging and apologizing for its military’s wartime aggressions. Initially, 238 women officially registered with the government as surviving comfort women. Kim’s death follows the passing of another less than a week ago. On February 23, a 90-year-old woman known only by her surname, Choi, a resident of Yangsan, South Gyeongsang, died at a local hospital following long-lasting illness. On Dec. 28, the Foreign Ministries of Korea and Japan reached a breakthrough deal that promised an apology from Tokyo and a multimillion-dollar fund for the surviving victims. However, some of the women have called for the deal to be scrapped, demanding a clearer apology from Japan as well as legal responsibility over the issue.

NATI ONAL NE WS

In association with

AMNESTY

HOLDS RALLY THAT’S TOTALLY VIRTUAL

20 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

orea’s first-ever hologram demonstration was staged February 24 in Gwanghwamun Square, central Seoul, by the local branch of Amnesty International to protest what they called authorities’ infringement of the freedom of assembly and speech. The hour-long demonstration, staged a day before the third anniversary of President Park Geun-hye’s inauguration, was peaceful. Three hundred police officers were dispatched to the scene. Korea became the second venue in the world for a political protest done with holograms. The first was held in Madrid in April 2015 to protest a new law prohibiting people from rallying outside government buildings. In Seoul, ghostly images of some 80 people were projected onto a large translucent screen in front of Gyeongbok Palace, illustrating 3-D holographic forms

holding politically charged placards. Separate voice recordings demanding the right to assembly pierced the night air. Earlier in February, around 120 volunteers were recruited by Amnesty Korea and filmed picketing inside a studio for two days. After 10 days of editing and photoshopping the images, the humanitarian group was technically able to reflect the shots onto a screen that was 10 meters (33 feet) in length and 3 meters in height. Scores of other volunteers were involved in the voice recordings, which were received via the smartphone chatting app Kakao Talk. Park Si-hyeon, 24, who was among the virtual protestors, said she felt like she had watched a short movie when the end product was finally shown in one of the capital’s most bustling districts. “It was my first time shooting in a studio covered with green panel walls,” said Park,

adding she was eager to find out how the unusual process would turn out in the end. Amnesty Korea said their core task was to establish an “institutional framework” to battle against the “abuse of police force.” Police on the scene checked whether the holograms were reflected on nearby roads and disturbed traffic. Authorities also measured the chanting sounds to verify whether they were legally under domestic limits for nighttime protests. Noting that Amnesty Korea downplayed its political purpose by registering the event as a “cultural festival,” the Jongno Police Precinct had warned it would take legal action if the program led to real people chanting. A Jongno police officer said the hologram form made it “difficult” for them to apply some key clauses of the domestic Assembly and Demonstration Act on it because it was completely beyond the norm.

NATI ONAL NE WS

In association with

COUPLE SAYS THEY PRAYED TO

RESURRECT DAUGHTER

22 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

v pastor arrested on suspicions of child abuse and murder after his 13-year-old daughter’s corpse was found inside her family home more than 10 months after she stopped attending school told police that he had kept the body because he believed praying would bring her back to life. The police requested an arrest warrant on February 4 for the man, surnamed Lee, 48, and his wife, surnamed Baek, 41, on charges of foul play and abandoning a corpse. They also filed for an arrest warrant for Baek’s younger sister, 39, on abuse charges. Authorities are considering charging the couple with murder. Lee admitted on February 3 to beating the 13-year-old for five hours with a broomstick on March 17, 2015. He and his wife, the girl’s stepmother, later found her dead, he said, and covered her in blankets and kept the body inside their house for over 10 months. “I thought God would bring her back to life if I prayed for her,” Lee said in ques-

tioning, claiming that he and his wife lit candles around the corpse and prayed next to it in their house in Bucheon, Gyeonggi. “I considered for a while whether I should call the police when I found her dead.” Authorities believe the story is the suspect’s attempt to avoid social responsibility for his actions and have so far not found clues linking the couple to any sort of religious cult that believes in the resurrection of the dead. The theological college where Lee worked as a professor fired him on February 3. Initial autopsy results released by the National Forensic Service indicated internal bleeding on the back of the girl’s thighs, but no signs of fracture or abdominal hemorrhage. “From the results of the initial autopsy, it is hard to determine whether Lee and Baek’s physical abuse led to girl’s death,” a police officer said. The Bucheon police said that the couple admitted to hitting the girl on the palms, calves and thighs with wooden sticks and a broomstick for five consecutive hours on

March 17, engaging in what the husband and wife called “disciplining their child.” After taking a nap in another room, they found their daughter dead seven hours later, wrapped her body in blankets and kept the body inside the house. To mask the stench, they surrounded the body with air fresheners. Police said that the state of the corpse was not so decayed as to reveal the skeleton, but slightly mummified due to longterm neglect. To mummify, by definition, means to treat a corpse with oil and wrap it in strips of cloth to preserve it. Korea experiences a monsoon season every summer and extreme humidity. The couple said that the incident in March was the first time they had stepped over the line in disciplining their daughter, who they said was “prone to stealing and running away.” In her elementary school records, the 13-year-old was described as “an excellent student who fulfilled everyday requirements at school.” She had not missed a day of school for six consecutive years.

I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

FROM NORTH TO SOUTH Three young defectors talk about their journey to the South and the challenges they face while adapting to their new life

24 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Story and Photos by Barbara Bierbrauer Translation by: Oh Sun-taek and Park Jae-man

I do not miss North Korea. I miss my father who is still there. I hope one day I can see him again,” Kim Myungchul*, a high-school student who recently escaped from North Korea with his mother, tells Groove Korea. His family could be described as wealthy — they lived in a city and after school he would play PC games on his own computer, a childhood similar to his southern counterparts. The wish for a better life in the South made his mother arrange their defection to South Korea. She earned enough money to secure the services of brokers who organized everything

from the border crossing and bribing to transportation, accommodation and meals. Kim Myung-chul does not know the details of arrangements, which are kept secret even among family members. “[My mother] gave the money to the brokers and they arranged our defection. We crossed the Tumen River. On the Chinese side, the broker picked us up. There were six of us. The brokers brought us to the bus station,” he recalls. From there they traveled down south on public transport until they reached Thailand a month later where there is a South Korean embassy. Their journey wasn’t easy — they did not possess any travel documents and traveled

I WISH I COULD OPEN THE FIRST HOTEL IN MY HOMETOWN LATER SO OTHER PEOPLE WOULD ALSO HAVE THE POSSIBILITY TO ENJOY THE BEAUTY OF NORTH KOREA. KIM CHEON-GUK, NORTH KOREAN DEFECTOR

under the constant threat of being recognized as North Koreans and reported to the authorities. They spent another month in Thailand before they reached South Korea. Kim Myung-chul is one of the 28,795 North Koreans who, according to the Ministry of Unification, have made it to South Korea since 1998. Even though it’s been almost two decades, the media and governmental organizations still use a wide range of terms to describe them: refugees, defectors, escapees, economic migrants, new South Korean citizens. Currently the Ministry of Unification and National Intelligence Service use the term “refugees.” China, the country through which most North Koreans have to pass on their way to the South, does not accept this refugee status, instead labeling North Koreans in its territory as “illegal economical migrants” who are also subject to deportation. However, South Korea views the North as a part of the original Korean territory, meaning that North Korean citizens are considered South Korean citizens. Although he can choose one of these descriptions, Kim Myung-chul doesn't want to be linked to North Korea at all. He chose a fake name for this interview. “I don't want the people to know my name and I don't want anyone to know that I am from North Korea,” he says. “My classmates don't know it either. If people find out, they will bully me.” His experience, like that of so many other defectors, has been sobering.

IF I COULD CHANGE SOMETHING FOR NORTH KOREAN DEFECTORS, I WOULD WORK ON PREJUDICE, AHN CHUNGGUK, NORTH KOREAN DEFECTOR to the next restaurant and have some food and warm up. My father did what he was told to do, but he had no money to pay for his meal.” Luckily the restaurant let him eat for free. Unfortunately, his luck did not continue when he took a job on a farm but did not receive payment for three months. North Korean laborers abroad often become victims of abuse and exploitation as they have no rights and are not protected. But he had some luck. “He had a telephone number of another person from North Korea who already lived in China, and was finally able to contact him. This guy found a broker for him,” Ahn says. Despite a lack of money, the brokers arranged for Ahn’s father to travel to the South on credit. “When he arrived, he paid the brokers back [with his settlement allowance]. He also paid the brokers for his family. All together, for four people, himself, my mother, me and my brother, he paid around 20 million won. He earned that money in one year. He worked very hard,” Ahn says. Just like Ahn Chung-guk and Kim Myungchul, Kim Cheon-guk, a 21-year-old student of tourism management, fled the North for Thailand. “My mother and I escaped North Korea four years ago. It took us three months to

get to South Korea [from] Thailand.” According to Bada, Mongolia used to be a good destination too (although the journey through the Gobi Desert is considered extremely dangerous), but since the Chinese government tightened its border controls, it is getting increasingly difficult to cross the border illegally. Without a broker the chances of being caught increase. Russia, which also shares a border with North Korea, extradites defectors that cross the border illegally. If defectors are caught in China, the most likely outcome is their deportation to North Korea and imprisonment. Relearning how to live All defectors who land in South Korea are subject to investigation by the National Intelligence Service (NIS) in order to ensure that they are not a security threat. As well as this, the NIS “protects North Korean refugees [..] for around three months when they enter the Republic of Korea, provides treatment to any diseases they have because of the poor healthcare and malnutrition in North Korea, provides psychological and physical support for any suffering caused by the process of defecting from North Korea,” according to the NIS Homepage, Protection of North Korean Refugees. Ahn Chung-guk was 13 when he reached South Korea with his mother and 8-year-old brother. When their plane touched down, they were told to stay seated until officials picked them up. Once they got to the investigation center, he was separated from his mother. Ahn and his brother were kept together with other male defectors and were not allowed to meet their mother for the entire duration of the investigation. Every now and again they caught a glimpse of her while she was collecting her meal, but any conversation was strictly prohibited. Soon they were transferred to another facility, which Ahn described as “a cell.” “The people [at NIS] were never kind to us. They used to swear and scream at my brother and me. I was not allowed to go out at all,” Anh says. “No one told me how long we will have to stay there, what will happen to us or when will we see our mother. My brother could go out every now and then, but I had to stay in the cell. I was held there for one-and-a-half months. The actual investigation only took one day to do, when the officer asked different questions about my school, my hometown, my friends etc.” Ahn's experience with NIS is not unique. Last November, at a United Nations Human Rights conference to ratify the International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights, it was noted “with concern that ‘defectors’ from the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea are detained in the

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 25

Over rivers, mountains and countries The exact number of people who defect from the North is unknown. Not all North Koreans go to the South. There are between 10,000 and 100,000 North Korean defectors illegally living on Chinese soil, according to estimates by Jiyoung Song and Alistair D. B. Cook in their book Irregular Migration and Human Security in East Asia. These people are illegal workers, subject to human trafficking, sold as brides, and children of Chinese-North Korean liaisons. Deciding to leave North Korea is not an easy decision to make and, according to Nam Bada, Secretary General of People for Successful Corean Reunification (PSCORE), it’s getting harder to do. “Kim Jong-un's government is tightening the border controls. It is becoming more difficult to get over [the border]. We have no idea how many people get caught and turned back at the border, but we assume that they are numerous,” Bada explains. “But even if they are successful in crossing the border, there is a long way to go.” Just like Kim Myung-chul and his family, anyone who leaves North Korea without permission faces a long, dangerous, humiliating journey with a completely unknown outcome. How and where to cross the North Korean border and where to go after relies upon various

components — the most important being money. Being able to bribe your way out with the help of brokers can help, but it won’t secure a safe passage. Contacting a broker can be the easiest step if you know the right people, but even without money there are still ways to leave. Ahn Chung-guk, an art student, owes his life in South Korea to the braveness of his father, who crossed the border without money accompanied by his friends. Things took a bad turn when he lost contact with his friends after arriving in China. “He was very desperate and did not know what to do,” Ahn says. Alone without support or a job, Ahn's father tried to surrender himself to a Chinese police officer. “The police officer did not arrest him, he said ‘You know it is dangerous for you [to be sent back to North Korea] and told him to go

I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

26 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Center for North Korean Defectors upon their arrival, and may be held in the center for up to six months.” Furthermore, it maintains “the State party should ensure that DPRK ‘defectors’ are detained for the shortest possible period, and that detainees are given access to counsel during the entire length of their detention, that counsel be available during interrogations, and that the duration and methods of interrogation are subject to strict limits which comply with international human rights standards.” This isn’t the first time investigation and interrogation methods by the NIS have been brought to light. In 2014, two NIS counterintelligence officials were convicted of fabricating evidence to bring a case against a defector. With the investigations successfully completed, the defectors are transferred to an obligatory three-month long re-education program at Hanawon, a facility where they are taught how to live in the South. Many North Koreans are in need of medical and therapeutic treatment when they arrive — the result of poor diet and medical care in the North. At Hanawon, North Koreans receive

WHEN THE ADMINISTRATION [TRIES] TO SOLVE SOME PROBLEMS CONNECTED WITH NORTH KOREAN DEFECTORS, THEY [APPROACH] THEM IN A VERY SOUTH KOREAN WAY. NAM BADA, SECRETARY GENERAL OF PEOPLE FOR SUCCESSFUL COREAN REUNIFICATION (PSCORE) medical care and, additionally, full medical insurance that covers all eventual treatment costs for five years after their arrival. Hanawon provides classes on Korean history, a subject of tremendous significance,

as well as simple, but vital, everyday things, such as how to purchase a transport ticket, pay a bill and explore the city. In recent years, a subject of seemingly lower importance has had a big influence on how North Koreans perceive life in the South. K-dramas, although illegal, are watched widely in the North. “The Korean dramas are very popular in the North,” Bada says. “While the older generations are less informed and their dialect is very strong, the younger people are adopting the South Korean language much faster because they have been watching the dramas back home. They speak like South Koreans already when they arrive here.” According to the Ministry of Unification, after the program at Hanawon is completed, the government provides the defectors with a basic settlement benefit, installment benefit, and a housing subsidy, a total of 20 million won (for a single household). Furthermore, a single person is eligible for monthly support of 320,000 won for the next five years, health insurance and support in job training, or scholarships for university.

between the authorities in charge and the quality, transparency and duration of the support programs are the elements that have to be improved in order to provide defectors with more help during the adaptation and integration process. Bada says that the government has to involve more North Koreans in solving the issues that affect them instead of approaching the issue in a “South Korean way.” “When the administration [tries] to solve some problems connected with North Korean defectors, they [approach] them in a very South Korean way, with their own background. But the issues North Korean defectors have are different, so the solutions have to be discussed with North Korean defectors, they have to involve the people more,” he says. Currently some North Koreans are participating with some input, but are sidelined. “So it would be [useful] if the government would interact with North Korean defectors more and would listen to their needs, not making the bureaucratic system so powerful,” Bada says.

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

Looking to the future The people and the country across the border have more to offer than what is usually portrayed in the media. Their struggle for happiness, security, and cohesion is what they share with the South. Despite the challenges that they face here, Kim Myungchul, Ahn Chung-guk and Kim Cheon-guk are dreaming big for their own future as well as for the future of their own country. Like any other university student, Ahn wants to be successful. But he also wants to show the beauty of his hometown and, through his art, help people in the South overcome their prejudice towards defectors. “If I could change something for North Korean defectors, I would work on prejudice,” he says. Kim Cheon-guk has similar aspirations. He hopes that his hometown of Gilju, now infamous for the hydrogen bomb test on January 6 and a concentration camp in its neighborhood, will one day make headlines for different reasons. “My hometown is embedded between beautiful mountains and is close to an amazing sea. The nature is so rich, the sea view is breathtaking. I wish I could open the first hotel in my hometown later so other people would also have the possibility to enjoy the beauty of North Korea,” he says. *Name changed to protect identity

More information:

PSCORE www.pscore.org You can support Ahn Chung-guk's dream to become an artist by donating for his materials he needs for his classes at Hongik University: https://www.gofundme. com/AhnArtist

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 27

have increased tension in North-South relations: the assassination of President Park Chung-hee’s wife in 1974 by a North Korean sympathizer, the Blue House Raid by North Korean commandos, the 1983 bombing attempt in Burma, the death of South Korean sailors in 2002 and multiple minor infiltration attempts. Another dark period in Korean history also explains the fear and antipathy — the massacres of suspected communists. The government of President Lee Syngman is held responsible for ordering the execution of hundreds of thousands of civilians and political prisoners suspected of collaboration or sympathizing with the communist regime in the North. This is a controversial issue which can be seen in the recent high-tempered discussion about the content of history textbooks in public schools. According to 2015 statistics reported in Korea JoongAng Daily, North Korean defectors predominantly work in low-wage jobs, earning an average of 1.4 million won per month, 760,000 won less than the average earnings of a South Korean. They are three times more likely to commit suicide. Because some of them have difficulties handling the money they earn or get from the state — spending it on luxury articles such as watches or design clothing — they are more likely than South Koreans to get involved (willingly or unwillingly) in criminal activities. Nevertheless, the image of North Korean defectors in the South is improving. “[Over the] six years of my work at PSCORE, people are more accepting [towards North Korean defectors],” Bada says. "Some people used to be really against our street campaigns. They said ‘It's not true, all fake and lies.’ People are better informed now, recently also becoming more supportive.” TV shows featuring defectors have played a big role in this. Female defectors are featured on dating shows, other defectors regularly appear on talk shows such as Moranbong Club and On My Way to Meet You, as well as a reality TV show Let's Go Together. The popularity of these shows have helped remove some of the prejudices held against North Koreans in the South. Still there are some issues that need to be worked out when addressing the problems defectors face. A 2014 report, Resettling in South Korea: Challenges for Young North Korean Defectors, by the Asan Institute for Policy Studies points out that currently seven governmental institutions (the Ministry of Unification, National Police Agency, Ministry of Education, Ministry of Employment and Labor, Ministry of Health and Welfare, Ministry of Gender Equality and Family and Municipal and Provincial Authorities) are responsible for different programs addressing North Korean defectors. Communication

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Starting a new life “There is a discrepancy between what the North Korean defectors want and what they need,” Bada says. “After all the struggles of the journey, the time at the investigation facility and Hanawon, they have the money and they want to fulfill their dreams.” This can lead to unforeseen complications: life, as portrayed in K-dramas is much different to reality, and money runs out quickly. “North Koreans are living in a totally different world. Adults think that they understand how South Korean society works, and they want to make money, earn their living,” he says. North Korean defectors don't think they need additional help. When the Hanawon administration planned to extend its program by three months, defectors protested, not seeing any benefit in the provision of more substantial re-education. “Mostly they come to South Korea because of economical reasons and they see South Korean dramas in North Korea, they are dreaming to live like people live in these dramas — big house, luxury, high living standard, but that is actually not possible, at least not immediately,” Bada says. The expectation of high living standards, coupled with difficulties in the job market makes the start of an independent life complicated. After they have completed their time at Hanawon and are settled into their new home, defectors are free to apply for jobs and enter schools or universities. Unfortunately for some, the backlash begins here. When Kim Myung-chul began high school, he decided not to reveal his background, fearing bullying from his classmates. After a year and a half, his classmates are still not aware that he is a North Korean defector. Ahn made a different decision, thinking that his North Korean origin was nothing he should hide. “At first my classmates were surprised, but then they started teasing me, asking stupid questions. They asked me if we have porn in North Korea. I could not answer as I did not know what porn was. Or they asked if there is blood everywhere on the streets. Or if all North Koreans have to wear red. Also they spread a rumor that I escaped North Korea because I was in trouble there. They said I made a baby and ran away.” Ahn had two other classmates from North Korea, one who decided to keep his background secret for fear of being bullied. “Korean society is not friendly towards North Korean defectors,” Bada says. “[There are] many explanations. We must not forget that, in 1950, the North invaded the South, which led to exceptionally high casualties between the civilians, causing the death of hundreds of thousands of South Koreans.” Since the end of the war, several incidents

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

A Day To Be Irish 28 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Story by Liam Ring Photos by The Irish Association of Korea

This March 19 gives everyone a chance to cultivate their inner Celt

celebrating the day of the year on which everyone can feel at least a little bit Irish, the Irish Association of Korea (IAK) has worked night and day… well, day at least… to ensure that the maximum in entertainment is on offer. With music, dancing, drinks and the typical frivolity associated with the occasion, there will be plenty to do over the week leading up to the main event on March 19. With fifteen years of experience when it comes to organising the events, it’s virtually guaranteed that a great day will be had by all.

Dec 4- Mar 16 2016 The Garden of the Morning Calm Lighting Festival

Mar 4 Living In Seoul Orientation for Foreigners Chocolate Making Class

1pm-3pm KRW 12,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Mar 5 (and every Saturday) KISS Salsa Classes

IN THE SPIRIT OF THE DAY, NO MATTER WHAT THE BAND’S EXPERTISE, THE PROMISE HAS BEEN MADE TO KEEP THINGS AS IRISH AS POSSIBLE.

Directions: Directions: Sindorim Sindorim StationStation- Lines Lines 11 & & 22- Exit Exit 1.1. The The show show starts starts at at 1pm. 1pm. Check Check out out the the Irish Irish Association Association of of Korea Korea website website at at http://www.irishassociationofkorea.kr/ http://www.irishassociationofkorea.kr/

Mar 11 Volunteer Activity

Yongsan Center for the Disabled, 2pm-4pm Free, but sign-up prior to the session www.global.seoul. go.kr/Itaewon, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140893

Mar 15 Volunteer Activity

Yongsan Senior Welfare Center 1pm-2pm, Free but sign-up prior to the session www. global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Tax Consultation

9.30am-12.30pm, Free but sign-up prior to the session Yeoksam Global Village Center, 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul, Sign up at ygvc0417@gmail.com

Meditation Seminar

2pm-4pm Free, Yeoksam Global Village Center, 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul (4F Health Classroom), Sign up at ygvc0417@gmail.com

Mar 18 Stamp Making Class

2pm-4pm KRW 5,000, Yeoksam Global Village Center - At the National Museum of Korea, Sign up at ygvc0417@ gmail.com

Korean Cooking

10.30am-12.30pm, KRW TBC, Yeoksam Global Village Center,- at the Chunjungwon Cooking Studio Sign up at ygvc0417@gmail.com

Mar 19 St Patrick’s Day Festival

1pm, Free, D-Cube Plaza, Sindorim Station (Line 1 and Line 2, Exit 1), www.irishassociationofkorea.kr

Mar 25 Perfume Making Class

10am-12pm, KRW 20,000, Yeoksam Global Village Center 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul, Sign up at ygvc0417@gmail.com

Apr 9 SIWA Annual Gala

6pm-12am KRW 150,000 – KRW 170,000, Conrad Seoul Hotel Ballroom,www.siwapage.com/special-events/gala

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 29

Once again, the IAK has secured the D-Cube location in Sindorim for a full day of Irish culture, with Irish ambassador Aingeal O’Donoghue and Deputy Head of Mission David Murphy in attendance. The event kicks off at 1pm with traditional Irish music and dancing, with modern rock taking center stage later in the day. Chief among the entertainers will be Ceoltoiri Soul, a collection of both professional and amateur Irish traditional music enthusiasts from all over the peninsula that will be offering rousing renditions of well-known reels, jigs and hornpipes. Regulars at the Wolfhound Bar in Itaewon and the Tulip sessions in Myeongdong, the musicians are no strangers to the hooley and are among the go-to groups for bringing a party into full-swing. Another traditional group performing on the day will be Jigs and Reels while, in other welcome additions, there will be American folk music from Boss Hogwon and Irish rock music courtesy of Sweet Murphy’s Fancy. Traditional dance group Tap Pung will also be performing to keep revellers entertained throughout the day. In the spirit of the day, no matter what the band’s expertise, the promise has been made to keep things as Irish as possible. There will also be a raffle with a range of prizes, including a round trip ticket to Ireland courtesy of the day’s sponsor’s British Airways. In promising that the day will also have a family friendly focus, balloons and free face painting will be on offer to make anyone who wishes to look that little bit more Irish. Seoul Gaels will be also on hand to introduce those curious about traditional Irish sports to the art of the hurley and sliotar as well as to secure recruits for what promises to be a big season for the club. Following the festivities in Sindorim, everyone will be adjourning to Itaewon for round two (the hooley) at the Rocky Mountain Tavern (RMT) in Itaewon. Running from 7pm until 1am, a rocking night of music and fun is guaranteed for the usual entry fee of KRW 10,000. In addition to many performers from the Sindorim events, Pentasonic will also be offering up some alternative rock, funk and disco. Although not finalised at the time of going to print, the RMT promise a range of cheaper drinks on offer, and as a regular host of the event, the bar promises to keep things lively throughout the evening. We may be thousands of miles from the Emerald Isle, but that doesn’t mean the IAK is any less intent on putting on a show. A fixture on the expatriate calendar, St. Patrick’s Day in Seoul has gone from strength to strength since the start of the new millennium. Stick on some green, grab some friends, and head down to D-Cube for one of the loudest and most enjoyable days of the year.

7.30pm-8.30pm (beginner), 8.30pm-9.30pm (intermediate) KRW 10,000 won non-band nights/KRW 15,000 won band nights, SAMOS, Yonsero-5-dakil 22-3, 3rd floor, Chang Cheon-dong Sodemun-gu, Seoul

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

10am-11.30am, Free, Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

C OMMUNI TY

11am-9pm (until 11pm on Sat), Adults KRW 9,000 / Students KRW 6,500 / Children KRW 5,500, Mongolia Culture Town, Gapyeong Sledding Hills

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

30 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Story by Liam Ring Photos by Ceoltóirí Soul

eoltóirí Soul is a local group that has truly stepped up its involvement in the expatriate scene since its formation in 2013. Identifying a need for a dependable group of players to cater to already well-established Irish traditional music landscape in Seoul, the group’s nascent performances initially took place along the Han River in the summer

Tra Celtic di tio Beat naL

Ceoltóirí Soul prepare for a St. Patrick’s Day knees-up

and fall of 2013 before moving indoors as the cold approached. Now a regular fixture at the Wolfhound in Itaewon on any given Sunday afternoon as well as participating in some of the other sessions happening around Seoul, the group is as much a fixture of Irish culture in Seoul as a pint of Guinness at the Wolfhound or a Saturday training session with the Seoul Gaels.

A session calendar and other information is available at www.ceoltoirisoul.com. You can also check out the group’s Facebook page at www.facebook.com/ceoltoirisoul With thanks to Dimitri Roussopoulos for all his help with the article.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 31

Surprisingly, as Ceoltóirí Soul regular Dimitri points out, the group is experiencing a dearth of Irish talent at the moment, with the majority of players being a mix of Korean, American, Canadian and South African players. This combination is of course testament to the attraction of Irish music, something that Dimitri fell in love with through his enjoyment of the Irish whistle and traditional flute. “I play Irish music every day,” he states, “though my background is in classical flute and music composition.” His initial introduction to Irish traditional music sounds akin to throwing yourself in at the deep end, as he bought a tin whistle, learnt a few tunes from Youtube, and then went along to a session. “Most people are nervous to join the session - I know I was terrified - but it really is the best way to learn” The group has a much wider overlap in players these days, giving truth to how successful the group and the sessions have become. In search of as much authenticity as possible, the group is focused on producing a type of music as an accompaniment for dancers, with the Wolfhound sessions in particular thriving off a faster pace (although Dimitri himself prefers playing airs on the flute and tin whistle). The structure of the performances are vitally important for the musicians, with the performers at pains to ensure the sessions avoid any performance oriented attitude towards the music. “That kills the community-oriented spirit of the music - something we are desperately trying to avoid, even as so many other groups seem to be moving towards a more gig-styled delivery.” Looking ahead to St. Patrick’s Day, Dimitri refers back to the Wolfhound sessions and the origins of the group in particular as a sample of what to expect. “We are addicted to fast tunes, so polkas and reels are our staples. We try to not have too many staple tunes although the group does tend to start off with a set of reels: Silver Spear and the Ships are Sailing.” Asked if they would like any changes from last year’s event, all the group would hope for would be to have more people dancing.

Of course there is far more to Ceoltóirí Soul than just St. Patrick’s Day, with Dimitri taking part in sessions almost every week. It isn’t only the love of playing music that attracts him either, with the opportunity to make new friends also high on his list of priorities. “Making friends by playing music together is a very special process.” A session community, he emphasises, “is a very sincere and close community” with a phenomenal collection (both musically accomplished and as people) of players who contribute in numerous ways to the community. “There is even an artist who comes to sketch and participate artistically with her charcoal and ink.” With such dedication to the cause, it seems inevitable that Ceoltóirí Soul will be at the forefront adding to the living tradition of Irish music in Seoul for years to come. Ceoltóirí Soul will be appearing at the St. Patrick’s Day Festival on Saturday, March 19 at the D-Cube in Sindorim.

C OMMUNI TY

We are addicted to fast tunes, so polkas and reels are our staples. Dimitri Roussopoulos, Ceoltoiri Soul

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

FROM THE EMERALD ISLE TO THE LAND OF THE MORNING CALM Deputy Head of Mission, David Murphy reflects on Ireland and Korea’s growing relationship and his own journey to Seoul Story by: Liam Ring Photos by: Ariane Murphy

32 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

KOREANS WHO HAVE BEEN TO IRELAND, DONE BUSINESS THERE, TASTED IRISH FOOD OR LISTENED TO IRISH MUSIC TEND TO FALL IN LOVE WITH THE COUNTRY. – DAVID MURPHY, DEPUTY HEAD OF MISSION aised in County Carlow, Deputy Head of Mission David Murphy, may have given as little thought to the Korean peninsula as any other young Irishman when growing up. A graduate in Economics and English Literature, he got to see the Lehman Brothers collapse up close and personal as an employee there when the crisis hit, and although he was spared in the rush of job losses that followed, he took it as a sign that a career change was necessary. Further education in the form of a master’s degree at Paris’s prestigious La Sorbonne followed, before he became economic attaché at the British Embassy in Paris in 2012. Being at the political and economic heart ofthe embassy kindled his interest in diplomacy, and he jumped at the chance to join the Irish Department of Foreign Affairs as soon as the opportunity arose. From there, it was not long before his first diplomatic posting took him to Seoul and a culture - in some ways - not so far removed from the southeast of Ireland. Having been in Seoul just a little under a year now, Murphy remembers how the sheer size of the city struck him on arrival, confessing that it took him some time to find his bearings. Another standout for Murphy was the pace of development. “To walk through Gangnam and

think that none of these buildings existed just a few decades ago is astonishing.” It isn’t just the city that impresses him though, with trips to Gyeongju and Jeonju showing some of the beautiful places Korea has to offer as well. Turning to his role at the embassy, Murphy conducts a wide variety of tasks ranging from discussing political affairs with the Korean government to dealing with Irish citizens in need of consular assistance. The embassy offers a full range of consular services to the Irish community including the exotic sounding certificates de coutume (a freedom to marry certificate) which has seen a definite increase in applications between the Irish and their prospective Korean spouses in recent years. His background in business comes in particularly useful when working with trade and investment agencies such as Enterprise Ireland and the Irish Industrial Development Agency (IDA) who are looking for opportunities to advance Irish economic interests. Asked about the most important ability in diplomatic work, he focuses on the need to be able to multitask as well as being able to illustrate ideas clearly. “Important skills are the ability to manage several priorities at once, and the ability to clearly communicate complex information and ideas to an audience

that may not be familiar with the Irish context.” This unfamiliarity can mean plenty of extra work for him, as already common perceptions of Ireland in Europe and the Americas are lacking in Korea. “The awareness of Ireland is still growing,” he reflects. “There are plenty of opportunities to establish links [between the two countries] through economic ties and political and cultural dialogue.” Murphy believes that these links can only grow stronger as Korean companies and business leaders are becoming more aware of the Irish economic context after hearing about “the Irish economic story and how we emerged from an economic crisis to become the fastest-growing economy in Europe”. He firmly believes that with increased awareness will come an increased understanding and development of the economic relationship from both sides. To help foment this mutually beneficial relationship, the involvement of the Irish community is vital, and Murphy commends groups such as the Irish Association of Korea (IAK), Irish sport in the community (he occasionally turns out for the Seoul Gaels) and music groups such as Ceoltoiri Soul for the work they have done in Seoul and across Korea in recent years. “The support of the Irish diaspora is vital,” he insists. “The IAK and the Gaelic clubs have been at the forefront of outreach to Koreans, giving them a sense of the Irish identity and offering opportunities for Koreans to learn about and participate in Irish culture and sport.” A greater understanding of our different contexts is bound to aid in building better communication between the two countries; something that everyone can benefit from. This cross-cultural understanding is particularly important in the run up to St. Patrick’s Day - Ireland’s national holiday - when a day famous for fostering goodwill and friendship across all nations is celebrated in Seoul. “At any Irish cultural event, there are always plenty of interested Koreans attending,” points out Murphy, highlighting his own experiences at the IAK’s Irish Folk and Dance festival last September which also took place in Sindorim. “It is a great way to share Irish fun and culture with thousands of Koreans. It is an outdoor event so all are welcome; passers-by can look on or take part as well.” Beyond St. Patrick’s Day, the embassy has a number of plans for 2016, with one involving networking with Koreans who have lived in Ireland on Working Holiday Authorisations so they can stay up-to-date on developments and opportunities in Ireland. This is just one part of the embassy’s efforts – in tandem with organizations such as the IAK – to spread the good word about Ireland. “Koreans who have been to Ireland, done business there, tasted Irish food or listened to Irish music tend to fall in love with the country,” Murphy enthuses. “I would like to continue… to showcase the best of Irish industry and culture to as wide an audience as possible.”

The Embassy of Ireland is open Monday to Friday from 9am to 12:30pm and 1.30pm to 5pm. Find out more about the Embassy of Ireland at: www.dfa.ie/irish-embassy/republic-of-korea/

The joy of the Angels Angel House opens its doors to the whole community Story by: Celeste Maturen Photos by: Kiki Fastino

students and even visitors passing through. The group visits Angel House once or twice a month on Saturdays to clean and socialize with the residents. On those Saturdays, the volunteers arrive at Angel House in the early afternoon and divide up tasks. Some tackle the bathrooms while others mop the common areas and hand wash the clothing and linens. Each volunteer donates a minimum of KRW 10,000 to buy groceries for the dinner that they’ll prepare and serve to the residents. After dinner, everyone relaxes together, chatting, making arts and crafts, or in Wai Cot Nwe’s experience, painting toenails. Wai Cot describes her first visit to Angel House, which took place over the Lunar New Year in February, as one of the most memorable experiences of her life. “Volunteering offers a chance to be valued, learn new skills through new experiences and it has given me more confidence and happiness, too.” Wai Cot will return to Angel House in the coming months for the same reason that most volunteers become regulars — the residents at Angel House reciprocate the love they are given ten-fold. Last year Angel House welcomed four new residents into the family. This year Ok is expecting to take in even more. There’s no shortage of love to go around but the center needs more space. More space requires more money, and Ok is working tirelessly to raise funds for the expansion and so are her volunteers. Volunteer Charea Johnson’s independent foundation, Tru Faith Enterprises, has donated over KRW 500,000 to the orphanage during her six years of volunteering. Johnson plans to leave Korea in 2016 and hopes that more volunteers will fill the void that she is leaving, whether it be through monetary donations or a physical presence. “I can’t relay the emotions I feel every time I have a chance to walk up the hill to Angel House.” Johnson confided. “Walking down for the last time was so sad for me. Then I stepped on the bus, and I realized, I actually did something to help them; I’ve done my part. That’s a great feeling, that’s what I want other volunteers to feel.” Check out the Angel House Volunteering page on Facebook where you can sign up to volunteer. Be sure to check out the list of things volunteers should know which are posted there. Volunteer at Angel House through Facebook: www.facebook.com/groups/kikihero/ Contact: Kiki Fastino, kikihero@gmail.com

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 33

It isn’t the word you’d expect to associate with a community home for the disabled. But in Goyang-gu, Gyeonggi-do, just to the northwest of Seoul, Angel House is said to have a halo of joy surrounding it. The center is technically an orphanage, housing a mix of individuals from new-borns to elderly ajoshis, most of whom suffer from a combination of mental and physical disabilities. Not all are true orphans but due to the cost of care or the social pressures of a society that views disabilities as a taboo, they live separate from their families — yet not at all sundered from love. The residents of Angel House have found family in one another. The elderly look after the youth and every resident looks to the founder and director Jang-Soon Ok as their mother. Ok lived her younger years in an orphanage herself, burdened with a spinal abnormality known as spondylitis. Nearing adulthood, she moved to Seoul where she worked in a factory. Though barely able to make ends meet, she discovered that helping others with disabilities brought her great satisfaction. Years later, after her daughter was born with a developmental disability, Ok and her husband gathered their meager earnings to purchase a two-room home for the disabled. In 1993 Angel House opened its doors. The center has since flourished into a home for fifty. That’s fifty seats for dinner, fifty beds for sleeping for fifty individuals who need love and care - an undertaking that Jang-Soon Ok fulfills for every single individual at the home. According to long-time volunteer Charea Johnson. “You have a director who is small and disabled herself, and yet gives so much love. She loves and cares for every soul.” Johnson believes that Ok is the angel in the center’s name, describing her presence as light, carefree joy. Volunteer organizer Kiki Fastino felt that joy during her initial visit to Angel House in 2009, and knew firsthand the importance of a happy home, having spent years in an orphanage that lacked compassion and love. So overwhelmed by the happiness she felt while spending time with the residents, Fastino, along with fellow expat Jerri Friedsam, broadened the existing volunteer group of mostly Koreans into a diversely multicultural group, including expat English teachers, foreign

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

The National Assembly Elections: EXPLAINED The 20th National Assembly elections are upon us, and it is easy to miss what exactly is going on. Groove Korea will try to explain what lies ahead this April 13. Story and photos by: Park Hyun-Soo

prepared for the openbacked vans stopping in your street with loud music and shrill voices crying out to unsuspecting passers-by this coming month. Yes, election season is up and running in Seoul so, between now and April 13, be prepared to be bombarded with name cards, over-sized banners and highly-enthusiastic campaign staff in bizarrely colored shoulder sashes in every street in every neighbourhood. Even if you are not Korean and cannot vote, it still might be worth knowing just exactly what is going on. So let’s get the boring part out of the way first. Wednesday, April 13 marks the 20th National Assembly elections in the history of the Republic of Korea. This year’s (not-so) nail-biting edition will see the three-and-a-half major parties battle for around 300 seats in two separate ballots; one for a single candidate in every district and one proportional representation ballot that gives voters a chance to simply select the party they dislike the least of the three. You may be wondering why I wrote “about 300 seats” and why I can’t tell you exactly how many single-member districts and consequently how many proportional seats there are. Well, the answer is: nobody knows. At the time of writing, the election boundaries have still yet to be drawn, thanks to constant bickering between the major parties, who have been busying themselves doing nothing to confirm the political boundaries. Even when they did manage to agree to a map back in the summer that was so egregiously done, the Constitutional Court rejected it. Assuming that the politicians will eventually agree, it will then be time to give themselves jobs to do. Walking around the city, you will see posters, banners and staff wearing the colors and numbers of the candidates they support. Assuming you are reading this after mid-March, it means the candidates are no longer preliminary and now it is the real deal. As a general guide, the number and color indicates the party, the huge writing indicates the name and usually a photo of the candidate accompanies it. As a general tip, a stern face that looks like it could force a union back to work with its stare alone indicates a right-wing politician, whereas a soft smiley faced candidate that would make your heart melt into paying more taxes is a left-wing politician. In the red, right-wing corner this election is the Saenuri party, who get the coveted number one slot thanks to their current majority in the Assembly. They are led by floor leader Kim Moo-sung, who recently compared the color of coal to a black volunteer’s skin while handing out briquettes for the winter to the poor, and who has had a strained relationship with President Park Geun-hye that seems to have been put aside for now. Although the President is technically neutral in this race and is not allowed to campaign for her party, Saenuri are generally judged on her performance. Even though the President has faced a number of disasters during her term, the Saenuri Party have a fairly commanding lead at the moment and look set to win a comfortable majority. The only question seems to be how big will

34 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

THIS YEAR’S NOT-SO NAILBITING EDITION WILL SEE THE THREE-AND-A-HALF MAJOR PARTIES BATTLE FOR AROUND 300 SEATS IN TWO SEPARATE BALLOTS

the win be? To understand why they have such a commanding lead at the moment despite the President’s troubles, we have to look at the blue corner. The story of the Minjoo Party of Korea, the catchy new name for the largest opposition party, is too long and mind-bogglingly confusing to write in full here, but let’s try and give it a go. Hold on to your hats. After the last elections, the Minjoo Party (then called the Democratic Party) came in second. They were then joined by Ahn Cheolsoo, the businessman, professor and darling of the independent left movement, to become the New Politics Alliance for Democracy (NPAD). However, after a poor by-election performance and Ahn falling out with Moon Jae-in, the leader of the party, Ahn decided to leave a few months ago, frustrated at Moon’s refusal to resign. He moved on and is about to form the People’s Party just in time for these elections. The NPAD then changed their name to the Minjoo Party (literally “the Democrats together”) and now, in the latest twist, Moon has said he will resign due to his inability to form an alliance with Ahn to stop the Saenuri party. Confused? Imagine how the voters feel. The opposition has more in-fighting and bizarre story lines than an episode of a Korean drama, and it has left both the Minjoo Party and the People’s Party far behind the relatively organized and prepared Saenuri Party. It feels as if as long as they don’t make any major mistakes in the next month or so, we will be seeing another red majority in the National Assembly. Only citizens can vote in National Assembly elections, and foreigners living in Korea are actually prohibited from any election activity. So even if you are itching to get involved, you will have to sit back from and watch from the sidelines. Instead, marvel at the singing and dancing supporters, the giant banners and the early morning speeches blasting out on your street: Let the games begin.

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 35

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

PROMISES AND 201E6 SAME. HER TO BE THPS ARE GROWING WORKSHOLARITY AMONGST E, IN POPU AND EXPATS ALIK LE KOREANLSLY SINCE SHE IS APBS ESPECIA CH THE WORKSHOH TO TEA ORTABLY IN BOT COMF OREAN K H. AND ENGLIS

WISHES COME soapy TRUE AT

GENIE

Be it soap, bath salts or other beauty products, Jin Hyoung Joung shares her Genie secrets

36 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Story by Naomi Blenkinsop Photos by Nick Bruneau, Vincent McCarthy, and Jin Hyoung Joung

ocated in the extremely popular neighborhood of Huam-dong, Soapy Genie is more than just a soap shop. A combined soap, candle shop and studio, you can choose from a wide variety of soaps, candles and an assortment of other beauty products. Not only are high quality, handmade soaps and candles available to purchase, Soapy Genie also offers a fun-filled afternoon workshop that teaches how to make soaps, candles, and any other beauty product your heart may desire.

Soapy Genie officially opened its doors in 2014, but owner Jin Hyoung Joung had been making soap in her own kitchen long before that. Back in the day, (2011 to be exact), Jin was working as an English teacher of children; soap-making was merely a fun hobby reserved for weekends. However, this hobby quickly became an obsession which prompted her to start selling her soap at flea markets and craft fairs. Jin has fond memories of her first days as a soap maker. “I started selling soap in front of a boxing gym at a flea market in Kyungridan. I

would even sell soap on the street for fun.” She quickly expanded her handmade soap empire by selling her products at other flea markets in Samcheondong and Hongdae. Word quickly spread about her unique and varied selection of soaps and other beauty products and she moved up from selling her soap at flea markets and craft fairs to more established environments like Shinsegae and Hyundai Department Store. Jin even presented a soap-making workshop at Myeongdong’s Shinsegae department store.

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Surprisingly, she doesn’t count these impressive feats as her highest accomplishments. Instead, she values the regular customer base she has built over the years through selling her products at flea markets and on the streets. “My regular customers and their good feedback are my biggest accomplishments,” she confirms. By 2014, Jin had become very well known as a soap maker. At that time, she was still making soap in her cramped kitchen, which could hardly fit all the ingredients and equipment she required to make her products. This lack of space prompted her to open her own shop with a studio attached to better meet the ever increasing demand for her products. When Jin first opened her shop in 2014, Huam-dong was not an ideal location for a soap and candle shop. The inconvenient location inspired Jin to start giving afternoon and full-day workshops on how to make soap, candles, body butter and bath salts. These workshops would not only be beneficial for her customers but also help increase her profits. Coincidentally,

SOAPY GENIE ALSO OFFERS A FUN-FILLED AFTERNOON WORKSHOP THAT TEACHES HOW TO MAKE SOAPS, CANDLES, AND ANY OTHER BEAUTY PRODUCT YOUR HEART MAY DESIRE Jin also offers full day workshops for soap makers who want to make soap at home or for those aspiring to become professional soap makers themselves. During the workshop, Jin tries to make the students as independent as possible while still providing them with the instructions and information they need so that they are happy with their final creation. Participants have complete control over what they make. For example, participants design their soap, and help create the recipe for it, which includes choosing the amount of fragrances, color, oils and seasalts that should be added. Although Jin is well known as a soap maker, she is also able to give workshops on how to make these other beauty products too and even offers a spa basket workshop for participants who may want to learn how to make all of these products. Jin has come a long way from selling her products at flea markets and craft fairs. The last twelve months has been a huge success for Jin

and her growing business and 2016 promises to be the same. Her workshops are growing in popularity amongst Koreans and expats alike, especially since she is able to teach the workshops comfortably in both Korean and English. This year, Jin plans to sell her products on a Korean social media site to expand her customer base across the peninsula. She is also planning on offering children’s workshops later on this year and a special Children’s Day class may also be in the works. Needless to say, wishes can come true; just ask the Soapy Genie. More Info: For more information on Soapy Genie products and available workshops, please visit: www.soapygenie.com Shop: Soapy Genie Address: Soapy Genie, 134 (1st Fl) Shinheung-ro, Yongsan Dong 2 Ga, Yongsan Gu Email: soapygenie@gmail.com Tel: 010-7170-4336 Facebook: www.facebook.com/soapygenie2011 Instagram: www.instagram.com/soapygenie_hbc Blog: blog.naver.com/onas2000 (Korean) KakaoTalk ID: soapygenie

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 37

shortly after Jin opened her studio, other artisan workshops and studios started opening in the area and now the street her shop is on is unofficially known as an artisan alley. These days, Jin mainly offers the workshops on weekends. Although Jin has a set schedule posted on her blog of times she is available, she is also willing to give workshops outside of these sessions to better suit her customers’ needs. Jin has taught many kinds of students how to make soap, candles and other beauty products. From students with zero experience to those wishing to become professional soap makers, Jin offers workshops that are ideal for everyone. Students sometimes come by themselves to learn a fun new hobby. Sometimes couples come for a creative date and at other times, small groups of friends participate in the workshop to try something out of the ordinary. The workshops require a minimum of a threehour commitment on the part of the students.

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

SEOUL INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S ASSOCIATION SIWA, the largest expat-focused women’s organization in Seoul

38 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring Photos by: SIWA

migrating to another country is difficult for most people. Those moving may especially want to find opportunities to make new friends, share activities with other expats or simply get involved with their new communities. Yes, being new to Seoul can leave you searching for those friendships you left behind, which is why many revel in finding many cool new Korean friends, or looking for something in the local community to do. Well, if you are looking for some new experiences, then the Seoul International Women's Association (SIWA) has just the answer. It’s the longest running international organization in the capital and has over 400 female members from more than 40 countries. If you want to build friendships with women from all over the world, then just sign up for a SIWA Newcomers meeting.

The SIWA community has been in existence since 1962 and provides meaningful interactions between its members. Providing a solid exchange of friendship, culture and charitable work, the association brings together members from a myriad of communities. With regular groups, workshops and events, SIWA has continued to grow into a professional and well respected organization. Add the fact that they are an all-volunteer organization and their achievements are commendable. SIWA is a member-run organization with members joining at any time of the year. An annual membership costs KRW 60,000, which provides some great benefits, with some single events worth the membership price alone. Enjoy discounted rates on guided tours around Seoul and monthly hospitality events held at the Conrad Seoul. Additionally, there are some

activities which non-members may also attend, such as the annual Bazar and the Gala – two of SIWA’s largest fundraising events. Described as a place to make friends from various cultural backgrounds, SIWA offers many attractive group activities which members can join. The SIWA Tours and Interests Group are the most popular with a variety of outings to learn about Korean culture. The group also gathers for monthly Coffee Mornings with special speakers arranged to speak at the Conrad Seoul. Past speakers have included Mr David Cummins, Head of Strategic Sourcing at Shell Korea Ltd, and many other high profile individuals from the expat community. Members can also join a book club which involves speaking about the group's chosen book. Members take turns to host the monthly meetings at their home or a local coffee shop

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THE LONGEST RUNNING INTERNATIONAL ORGANIZATION IN THE CAPITAL NOW HAS OVER 400 FEMALE MEMBERS FROM MORE THAN 40 COUNTRIES TO PROVIDE A SOCIAL PLATFORM FOR THOSE IN THE CAPITAL. Women's Network (WWN) fits the bill. Invitations are extended to those with a family, working or doing both and simply unable to join in daytime activities. With a focus on networking, whether socially or professionally, the WWN meets for monthly dinners in different restaurants around the city. If you are thinking of joining, SIWA rolls out the welcome mat from the very beginning. With a Newcomers Meeting scheduled every month and many other regular events to join, SIWA has also established itself as a fundraiser for local charities with two high profile events. The SIWA Diplomatic Bazaar usually takes place in November and is the largest international fundraising event in Seoul. The second event, the Annual Charity Gala, will be taking place at the Conrad Seoul Hotel Ballroom on April 9. The evening will include a fabulous dinner, dancing, and entertainment with great raffle prizes planned alongside a silent auction. The proceeds from both events, in addition to any money raised at the monthly Coffee Meetings or tour and interest activities, are placed in a welfare fund which is then allocated to charities via SIWA’s Welfare Committee. The Welfare Committee, which employs strict guidelines when evaluating funding requests, seeks final approval from the SIWA board before distributing the funds. Past funds have assisted numerous charities around the country, including orphanages, homeless shelters

and multi-cultural schools, as SIWA strives to aid those most marginalized and vulnerable in Korea. With over 400 members and comprised of a multitude of nationalities, SIWA provides access to various programs, allowing lives to be enhanced through friendship, enrichment and charity.

More info SIWA activities are designated for either members or non-members. Please check the website www.siwapage.com to see if membership is required for a particular activity. Member Events Newcomers Meeting: Friday, March 11, 10am-11.30am www.iwapage.com/join-siwa/newcomersmeetings/ Coffee Morning: Wednesday March 16, 9am-12pm http://siwapage.com/activities/coffee-mornings/ Non-member Events Tour: www.siwapage.com/activities/tours Working Women Network (WWN): www.siwapage.com/activities/tags/workingwomens-network/ Next Charity Event: SIWA Annual Gala When: April 9, 2016 between 6pm -12am Where: Conrad Seoul Hotel Ballroom Cost: SIWA member: KRW 150,000 / Non-SIWA Member: KRW 170,000 / Table of 10: KRW 1,500,000 Dress Code: Cocktail party attire or any Asian country’s national dress Website: www.siwapage.com/special-events/ gala/

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 39

to discuss the issues and themes in the story. Cultural Connection proposes to bring a mixed community of members together by meeting once a month to understand, appreciate and discuss each other's cultures. SIWA members alternate hosting a meeting and leading the discussion with a brief presentation on their own country before a question and answer session is conducted with the other ladies. Language-themed activities include the International Culinary Exchange and Korean-English Conversations. The two meetings include sharing a broad range of culinary expertise between the multi-cultural members through the chosen host's cooking class once a month. For a KRW 30,000 participation fee, instructions and ingredients are provided, and the session ends with everyone sharing a meal. For those who enjoy eating rather than preparing their food, the Korean-English Conversations take place at a chosen restaurant over lunch every second Tuesday of the month for ladies to meet and practice speaking in their second language. For those with younger families, SIWA's Moms and Tots (MT) is the perfect opportunity for both moms and kids to make new friends. With regular meetings taking place at each other's homes, the park or indoor playgrounds, this is the perfect way to get to know the city and also make new friends. If busy during the day, then the Working

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Master Plan: The birthpla c e of

unde r gr ound hip-hop

In the first of a two-part series, legendary hip-hop club Master Plan, considered by many to be the starting point for Korea’s 90s underground scene, first focuses on the history of the genre.

40 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

Story by Emma Kalka Photos by DJ GASS from Side B, DJ Soulscape, Artisan Beats, NUCK, Just Music

own a side alley in Sinchon, away from the hustle and bustle of Hongdae, there’s a small club with a black and white checkerboard floor that looks as though it could fit no more than 50 people. This is where many say underground hip-hop was born in Korea. Nowadays, it goes by the name Geek Live House and hosts a variety of shows. However, between 1997 and 2002, it was the mecca of underground hip-hop: Master Plan. Up to 200 people would attempt to squeeze in on Friday and Saturday nights, with those not fortunate enough to enter listening from the staircase outside. Some of the biggest names to grace its small stage have included Vasco, Skull and Dynamic Duo and hot acts like Drunken Tiger and DJ DOC. For many, Master Plan was home. “It was like my hometown,” says MC Meta, one half of duo

Garion. “At the end of the day, when they sold the club [in 2002], we all felt like we had lost our home.” Dapheal, a member of Megaphone at the club continues: “It’s a club that had the original Korean hip-hop. Through Master Plan, the music could spread.” A community of music lovers under the name Master Plan pooled their resources and bought the venue in 1997 in order to establish a place to enjoy music. The space had previously been used by online hip-hop community BLEX for shows and new owner Donmany decided to let them continue there after the purchase, according to MC Meta. Hip-hop shows were scheduled every Friday and MC Meta recalls that after the BLEX shows, Donmany wanted professional artists to perform, so auditions began. Gradually, more artists joined, the next being Da Crew (consisting of Seven and Sataan who now go by Artisan Beats) Side B, Megaphone, Kigachi (who later became Infinite Flow) and more. “I didn’t know they had a hip-hop scene in Korea. Actually, they really didn’t. That was the only place you could even hear hip-hop,” says Artisan Beats, who is now a producer. He said his first show had about five paying customers in addition to the 20 artists that were performing that night - an occurrence that happened often during those early days. DJ Gass from Side B decided to flirt with hip-hop in Korea while studying and living in Japan, where he was able to witness a strong, vibrant hip-hop scene. “In ’98, we found out there’s some club [in Seoul] doing hip-hop live shows every weekend,” he reminisces. “We went there and it was so little. Tiny, tiny club… I was shocked because I thought I am the first one trying to do this in

10am-8pm (Tues-Fri), 10am-6pm (Sat-Sun), KRW 13,000 (adults), KRW 10,000 (Children), Seoul Museum of Art, 61 Deoksugung-gil , Jung-gu, Seoul, 100-813

Until Mar 20 Exhibition National Geographic Exhibition: WORLD OF MYSTERY

11am-7pm, KRW 8,000 - KRW 13,000, 2F, Hangaram Art Museum in Seoul Arts Center

IT’S A CLUB THAT HAD THE ORIGINAL KOREAN HIP-HOP. THROUGH MASTER PLAN, THE MUSIC COULD SPREAD. – DAEPHAL

** The second part of Master Plan, which focuses on the club’s impact on the hip-hop scene, will be in Groove Korea’s April issue. **

Emma Kalka is a freelance writer who runs the blog “Discovering the Korean Underground” on Tumblr, which focuses on the Korean underground hip-hop scene.

Mar 3 Film Musudan

Check general Listings, General release Around Korea

Mar 5 Event Hypnotist Show for Charity: Gabriel Dye

2pm, Free (but suggested donation of KRW 10,000), Rocky Mountain Tavern, Itaewon, www.facebook.com/NKHRRescueFund/

Music

DJ DOC “Brother Concert”

7pm, KRW 77,000 – KRW 121,000, Gwangju, Yeomju Gymnasium

Mar 6 Music The Gentlemen League: Vol 5 (DOK2, The Quiett)

6pm, KRW 77,000 – KRW 88,000, AX-Korea

Mar 10 Film After Love

Check general Listings, General release Around Korea

Missing You

Check general Listings, General release Around Korea

Mar 12 Music Loopy & Nafla “First Class”

7pm, KRW 55,000, KT&G Sangsang Madang

Mar 13 Music MC Sniper Band

6pm,KRW 44,000 – KRW 55,000, KT&G Sangsang Madang

Mar 19 Performance White Lies Burlesque Presents: A Night At The Cinema!

9pm, KRW 10,000 (includes free shot and raffle ticket), Bedrock HBC, www.whitelies. me

Mar 21 Music The Beach Boys

8pm, KRW 195,000 – KRW 345,000, Grand Ballroom, The Conrad Seoul

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 41

and like, how they dressed and how they act,” comments Vasco. DJ Gass also remembers meeting the Japanese rappers he had idolized, recalling how crowded and crazy the club would get. “Everybody is jumping and shouting,

‘Human Image’: The British Museum, Collection, 11am-5pm (until 8pm in March) KRW 15,000 (adults), KRW 10,000 (age 7-18) KRW 8,000 (age 5-6), 1F, Hangaram Art Museum in Seoul Arts Center

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

and the sweat goes up and came back down like rain from the ceiling because the air [conditioning] is so weak,” he smiles. “But we didn’t care.” For Vasco, Master Plan was the highest level to achieve as a rapper. He auditioned three times to get in. Others auditioned as many as five times. “Everybody knew Master Plan is the place where all the professional rappers perform. So when I was a kid, it was like an idol. Oh my god, I want to perform there. I want to be there. I want to be one of them,” he says. At the time, it was the only club that had all the gear, including mixers and turntables and the best DJs such as DJ Wreckx and DJ Soulscape. “They played music from LPs… It was true hip-hop. True underground hip-hop,” he adds excitedly. Which is why it came as a shock when the club suddenly closed in 2002 – seemingly at its peak – to turn into a label. Some of the artists signed. Others, because of differences with the owner, decided to go elsewhere. NUCK who was a member of Infinite Flow at MP, said Master Plan has made a natural transition from club to label. “I think it headed in a natural progression. Like going from vinyl to tape, to CD and then to MP3. Though, I still wish it existed… There aren’t many places like that are available,” he states. Vasco said that one cannot talk about Korean hip-hop without mentioning the importance of Master Plan. “Twenty or 50 years later or 100 years later, when they talk about Korean hiphop, they have to talk about Master Plan first,” he says. “It’s like, you know, like Brooklyn in Korea. It’s like Harlem in Korea.” Though it is gone, it certainly is not forgotten by those who were there.

Until Mar 29 Exhibition ‘Human Image’: The British Museum Collection

ENTERTAINMENT

Korea and it was already happening there.” Yoo Young-joon, who now works in production at label Brand New Music, started going to the club as a high school student. But his desire to get to know the musicians better led him to take a job there once he graduated in 2000. “The place was quite energetic regardless of how few people were coming. It was quite vibrant,” Yoo says. He did everything from running the ticket booth to cleaning and even serving soda to the audience (as the club was open to all ages and did not sell alcohol), earning him the nickname Drink Man (음료수맨). “I was amazed by the fact that a group of Koreans were doing the same thing [as U.S. hip-hop]. It was also enjoyable talking to people who had the same interest as me, who were into hip-hop and R&B,” he recalls. MC Meta remembers about 30 teams performing at Master Plan every weekend, as well as making appearances at business openings and stages in front of Dongdaemun department stores. Many Master Plan artists were then featured on a hip-hop compilation album called 2000 Korea (2000 대한민국), which helped build the popularity of the club. The shows then spread to Friday and Saturday nights. One memorable - and perhaps the biggest - show in particular was Master Plan’s collaboration with Japanese label Future Shock. Rapper Vasco, who joined Master Plan in 2000 with team PJ Peeps, enjoyed collaborating with many foreign artists, noting most were influenced by the Japanese crew. “A lot of… Korean rappers, got inspired by the Japanese skills and DJ skills and rap skills,

Until March 13 Exhibition Hyundai Card Culture Project 19: Stanley Kubrick

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

OG rapper Onesun uses the club, label, weekly show and music to keep the underground scene alive in Seoul Story byv Emma Kalka Photos by Steve Smith

rom a small, hidden basement in the middle of Hongdae, the sounds of hip-hop waft out to the street, mixing with the aroma from Monster Pizza next door. During the week, the atmosphere is chill – seeming more like a bar than a club by its select group of regular visitors. On those nights, you are more likely to hear tunes from the golden age of hip-hop rather than club bangers. Those are reserved for weekends,

42 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

KEEPING THE UND where live underground hip-hop and its more energetic vibe is embraced. Visit any night of the week (the club is open seven days a week) and you’ll find the same man either sitting behind the bar or in the DJ booth. Always wearing a white shirt, a backwards hat and jeans, sometimes with glasses, sometimes not, the only thing that really seems to change is the length of his sleeves depending on the weather.

His name is Onesun, an OG rapper and pro- dilemma. “I was thinking about how can I conducer from the first days of the underground tinue the show and what I want to do about [it. scene in Korea. Back then he performed week- So] I bought the club with my friends, who are ly at the renowned Master Plan club. And it’s not involved with this culture,” he said. In the years it’s been open, Onesun says his this experience that led him to open up his club, biggest struggle has been finances. Like any In2Deep, three years ago. In homage to Master Plan, he started the other small business in Korea, the influx of big weekly show Shining Ground prior to opening business in Hongdae has also presented chalIn2Deep. However, when the club he hosted it lenges for him and other small clubs in the area. at decided to shut down, he was faced with a “Hongdae used to have its own color with vari-

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

THE HONGDAE AREA USED TO HAVE ITS OWN COLOR WITH VARIOUS GENRES OF MUSIC AND ARTIST, BUT IT’S CHANGED SINCE FUNDS FROM BIG COMPANIES FLEW IN. THAT CHANGED THE MARKET AND BUSINESS IN THE AREA.- ONESUN, OWNER OF IN2DEEP

Shining Ground. It’s for everybody. Every musician. I’m going to give chances to everybody who wants to be on the stage.” By everyone, he does mean everyone, from performers to listeners, foreigners to Koreans. Some of the regulars include Part Time Cooks, Dnt Stop, Feloney, Diamond Tree, KeeBomb, Joe Rhee, Dwang and even some well-known artists including P-Type, Vasco and San E. “We have to have ground to show and do it – to live. I told [SG artists] that music is living. When you make, when you show, when you believe, when you are doing with all music, you’re always living,” he said. “Music is living. For the listeners too. They need ground when they want to enjoy the show live.” In a natural next step, Onesun is kicking off his own label, dubbed Shining Music Group. He said that since leaving the Master Plan label, he needed a company that could take care of his music and other artists. “I judged that establishing a company on my own is the best way to actualize what I wanted to do for artists in Shining Ground,” he states. “I prepared a single to release, found some artists who can be involved, so I proceeded.” The label will feature hip-hop, R&B, jazz, soul – basically any artist that he wishes to work with. His goal is to have a label that is fair to everyone involved. The first single up for release is his own, “K.I.R. (Oh La La La),” his first since 2007. He says that with the club, he couldn’t focus on music, which is why it took him so long to come out with a new song. He produced the beat four years ago, inspired by “time and experience.” The final release date is currently not set as Onesun still needs to get clearance for some of the sampling featured on the track. But the second single from the label by a different artist is also set and ready for release. Onesun remains confident and comments that there is much more to come from the label in the future. “I’m [going to] keep it rockin’ till

ERGROUND ALIVE and cultural base for hip-hop and R&B in Korea. And this is where Shining Ground comes to play. The weekly hip-hop show is in its fourth season and is audition-based. Onesun said he usually gets two to three teams weekly who are interested in performing and a couple get chosen for the show. “If somebody does hip-hop, they have no stage to show their own,” he says. “We gotta make our ground first… That’s why I started

Emma Kalka is a freelance writer who runs the blog “Discovering the Korean Underground” on Tumblr, which focuses on the Korean underground hip-hop scene.

the end. Actually the label is focused on singles, [so] each song is going to be what we do best,” he explains. Any artist that is interested in auditioning for Shining Ground should send a simple profile and original music (at least three tracks) with the lyrics, producer credit and contact information to Onesun at: onesun1117@hanmail.com. He will then contact them with the next step. The show takes place every Saturday, with doors opening at 10pm and performances starting at around 10.30pm. Entrance is usually KRW 10,000. To follow updates on Shining Ground or In2Deep, visit the show’s Facebook page: www.facebook.com/shininground/?fref=ts www.facebook.com/ClubIn2Deep?fref=ts

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 43

ous genres of music and artist, but it’s changed since funds from big companies flew in. That changed the market and business in the area; there’s a possibility that Gundae or Sinchon may be the destination of Hongdae in the end,” he explains. “There’s some movement to defend and keep the cultural traits of Hongdae but I don’t think the main group of the movement realized what they gotta do for it exactly.” His main goal is to make In2Deep a musical

K–FILM: THREE BY… GENRE

March’s K-Film Springs into the new season with a choice variety

44 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Story by Simon McEnteggart Photos courtesy of HanCinema

ypically, Korean cinemas are dominated by big tentpole films from the big three studios while a smattering of independent titles making their way to select screens. For March however, things are a little different as a bevy of films from alternative distributors are to receive a larger share of the limelight; a well-timed change of pace ahead of the Jeonju Independent Film Festival in April. Three of the more prominent titles have been selected for coverage here, but there’s plenty for all tastes as spring arrives in the peninsula.

MISSING YOU RELEASE DATE: March 10th DIRECTED BY: Mo Hong-jin STARRING: Shim Eun-kyeong, Yoon Je-moon, Kim Sung-oh DISTRIBUTED BY: Next World Entertainment the backing of up-and-coming power player Next World Entertainment. While the film is director Mo Hong-jin’s debut, the addition of enormous popular actress Shim Eunkyeong is a major asset with her inclusion alone likely to guarantee audience interest. Though thrillers have become commonplace in Korean cinemas, the focus on Shim as the lead vigilante could unlock a new facet in the genre.

DID YOU KNOW? Actress Shim Eun-kyeong has made a reputation for herself as a versatile comedic actress in recent years with hits such as Miss Granny. However Missing You is not her first time exploring darker material, as she played a teen with supernatural abilities in horror film Possessed in 2009.

MUSUDAN RELEASE DATE: March 3rd DIRECTED BY: Goo Mo STARRING: Lee Ji-ah, Kim Min-jun, Do Ji-han DISTRIBUTED BY: Opus Pictures

When a series of mysterious incidents in the Demilitarized Zone causes bizarre disappearances and deaths of key personnel, biochemists Captain Jo and Lieutenant Shin are called in to investigate. With only 24 hours to solve the case, the duo lead a team into the area, but quickly discover that the situation is far from what they ever could have imagined. Musudan is being touted as Korea’s indie answer to the Schwarzenegger

ENTERTAINMENT

When Hee-joo was seven years old, a serial killer murdered her father in a crime that earned the fiend a 15 year prison sentence. Yet with his time now served, the killer is due to be released…only to find that Hee-joo has been making preparations for her entire life to take her revenge. Missing You - or more literally translated as Waiting for You - has the potential to be the biggest film of the month due to its thriller concept, star power, and

action film Predator. Given the synopsis there are clearly initial similarities although it remains to be seen if director Goo Mo - who previously explored the genre in his debut District 820 - can match the thrills in John McTiernan’s classic. Setting Musudan apart from typical macho-orientated fare is the female central lead performed by Lee Jiah, making her return to the big screen after a six year hiatus, who looks set to add an empowering element to the mix.

DID YOU KNOW? Lead actress Lee Ji-ah has had a tumultuous career. Emerging suddenly into show business with a role in TV drama The Legend in 2007, the actress worked consistently until revelations regarding her personal life were uncovered by the press, and she took a break from acting. However she has since returned to the industry as a performer and as a screenwriter for indie Hollywood company Maybach Film Productions.

AFTER LOVE RELEASE DATE: March 10th DIRECTED BY: Eo Il-seon STARRING: Park Si-hoo, Yoon Eun-hye, Han Joo-wan DISTRIBUTED BY: Mountain Pictures ashes. In doing so, Sung-joon learns the truth and depth of the woman he married, coming to admire and respect her in surprising ways. Seemingly intended to coincide with White Day - the holiday in which men bestow gifts upon their loved ones a la Valentine’s Day - After Love looks set to be the most prominent romantic film of the month. Director Eo Il-seon makes his feature film debut after

helming a dramatic segment in omnibus In Between, and has scored quite a coup for his first endeavour by featuring popular actors Park Si-hoo and Yoon Eun-hye as the central couple.

DID YOU KNOW? After Love is a co-production between Korean and China, with filming taking place in both countries. Notably, picturesque Jeju Island figure prominently within the story.

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 45

When pilot Sung-joon becomes deaf in one ear, his career is effectively over and he quickly falls into spiralling depression. With little else in his life he agrees to attend a blind date, where he meets Eun-hong, and though he doesn’t care for her they agree to get married. Throughout their marriage Sung-joon treats Eun-hong coldly, until one day she unexpectedly dies, and he is tasked with returning her

46 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

SWANS OF SEDUCTION Universal Ballet bring their rendition of Swan Lake to Seoul Story by Hallie Bradley Photos by Universal Ballet Company

his year, the Universal Ballet will be holding four productions under the motto “Good Friends… Great Ballet!” The company has been providing audiences with dazzling displays since its debut in 1984 and this year will surely not disappoint. Swan Lake will start it all off at the end of April followed by Shim Chung, Romeo and Juliet and The Nutcracker in December. In 1999, Anna Kisselgoff wrote in The New York Times, “[Not] every company [can] drill into its corps de ballet the astounding precision and attention to stylistic detail that the Universal Ballet from South Korea demonstrated in Swan Lake.” The season of great ballet is thus destined to start off with a tutu-clad bang. Swan Lake kicks off the ballet season in Seoul this season. Originally composed by Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky in 1875, the show was a flop when it was first staged in Moscow in 1877, but most people around the world today know of the infamous ballet. That first performance received much criticism over the dancers, the orchestra and the stage sets, with the music barely appreciated. Though originally ill-received, the ballet was revived in 1895 and masterfully re-choreographed by Marius Petipa and Lev Ivanov; it saw further changes in 1950 by Konstantin Sergeyev and Oleg Vinogradov, both of whom served as the head of the ballet company at the Mariinsky the female corps de ballet is straight from tutu Theater in St. Petersburg. The Universal Bal- heaven.” Tutu heaven certainly brings gorlet now uses the 1950 work with revisions for geous onstage visions to mind. their 150-minute showing, which will likely be The ballet tells the story of Odette and Odile, anything but a flop. In 2012, Adrienne Sichel two girls that resemble each other so much wrote in the Tonight Review, “Exquisite Kore- that they could be mistaken for one another. an artistry straight from tutu heaven… Indeed, Act I begins with Prince Siegfried, who must the Universal Ballet of Korea, which made its choose a wife; when night falls, he decides African debut on the Mandela Stage of the to head out to shoot a noble swan with his Joburg Theatre for four performances, was fly- bow and arrow. While on the chase, the Swan ing Korea’s flag with pride… Without question Queen, Odette, comes to him in human form

and tells a tale involving her falling under the spell of an evil sorcerer who has made her a swan by day. She is also persecuted by her step-mother, who wants her to marry, and her only protection is her crown. A bevy of swans arrive to protect their queen but the prince has decided to lay down his crossbow, dance the night away with Odette and profess his love to her. The following night when questioned on whom he wants to marry, Prince Siegfried replied that none in attendance would do. Just

ENTERTAINMENT

THE BALLET TELLS THE STORY OF ODETTE AND ODILE, TWO GIRLS THAT RESEMBLE EACH OTHER SO MUCH THAT THEY COULD BE MISTAKEN FOR ONE ANOTHER.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

mances, it is not every day that the opportunity to see the show by a company such as The Universal Ballet comes up. Edward Tsumele described the performance as “magic” saying, “Ballerinas bewitch the audience. It was a rare performance by a top international ballet company whose significance was both artistic and diplomatic.” Enjoy something different this spring by heading to the Universal Arts Center near Children’s Grand Park. Take in the beauty, the strength and the confidence of

Hallie Bradley is a writer, educator, editor and more who has lived in Korea since 2006. Check out her website TheSoulofSeoul.net for more articles on culture, Korean traditions and the life of her growing multicultural family in Korea.

the enthralling dancers that will take the stage to showcase one of the most beloved ballets of all time. Where: Universal Arts Center Directions: Achasan Station (Line 5, Exit 4). The Universal Arts Center is on the left. When: March 23, 2016 - April 3, 2016 What Time: Weekdays 8pm, Saturday 3pm & 7pm, Sunday 3pm Admission: R- KRW 100,000/ S- KRW 60,000/ A - KRW 30,000/ B - KRW 10,000 Discounts: 20% discount available for expats and tourists and any accompanying Korean friends. Must show valid passport or alien registration card at the box office when picking up the tickets. Performance Time: 2 hours 30 minutes (A 20-minute intermission included) Inquiries: 070-7124-1777 Website: www.universalballet.com

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 47

then, Baron Von Rothbart enters with Odile, who immediately catches the eye of the prince due to her resemblance to Odette. They are betrothed but come nightfall, the prince realizes his mistake. Though Odette is understanding and forgives the prince, Von Rothbart tells him that he must honor his proposal or face death along with Odette. A fight ensues and at long last, the love of the prince and Odette breaks the spell and the swans are released. While it is one of those renowned perfor-

Underground Brings London Vibe to Hongdae Story by Naomi Blenkinsop Photos by Juda

48 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Going Underground

ongdae is one of the trendiest neighborhoods in Seoul for both Koreans and expats alike. It is especially well known for its urban arts and indie music scene and has a reputation for loud music and crazy partying. Hongdae usually caters to a younger crowd with features like cute, kitsch cafes, amazing foreign cuisine and awesome live music venues. Simply put, Hongdae has something for everyone. The area is located in the west of Seoul and is the perfect area for a bar like Underground, which simultaneously caters to a young, hip crowd while providing patrons with something new and different from the typical Hongdae fare. Joe Sax, owner of Underground, originally hails from Britain and has been living in South Korea for just a year. However, he has already fallen in love with the country and really wants to do something big here. His friends often teased him about opening a club in Seoul; in fact, it remained an in-joke for a few years until one day Sax decided that’s precisely what he wanted to do.

Manager Bryan Park is a Korean American with an extensive background running many clubs and restaurants in Seoul. When he came to Underground’s soft opening night, he saw many areas where he could be of assistance. He was hired as general manager on the spot and together, Park and Sax worked on developing Underground into what it is today. Although Underground has only been officially open for three months, it has its own very distinct vibe and many unique points that keep customers coming back. Sax’s concept of Underground was developed from his own British roots. Park describes Underground as “a bar that would easily fit in the streets of London as well as Seoul.” Sax and Park sought to “simulate a London atmosphere without it being a cheesy homage to British culture.” You won’t be seeing any Union Jack flags here. Instead, the bar hosts a wall-length lit image showing off the streets of London and a life-sized model of a London train car where you can sit and chill out with your friends. The London train car has been the biggest hit in Underground so far, lending the bar a more per-

sonal, intimate vibe for customers who are after a quiet drink. Underground is not your typical Hongdae bar or club. It’s the kind of place you can go and hang out with your friends and chill for hours on end without noticing the time go by. At Underground, the emphasis is on the chill rather than the party. You will find that the music is not so over-bearing that you can’t talk to your friends or meet new people. There’s nothing wrong with loud music but it is nice to go out and actually be able to talk to the people you’re with. Additionally, for board game enthusiasts, there are even favorites like Pop-Up Pirate and Jenga at each table to while a drink or two away. Park has put his own experience running clubs and restaurants to the test in developing the perfect formula for Underground’s food and liquor menu. The menu has a simple, classic, London pub feel with opulent classics like bangers ‘n’ mash and fish and chips. Ultimately, the priority for Park was not on quantity but on quality. “Through constant trials, we perfected all of our recipes from drinks to food to bring an experience unlike any other.” Food prices

ENTERTAINMENT

ALTHOUGH UNDERGROUND HAS ONLY BEEN OFFICIALLY OPEN FOR THREE MONTHS, IT HAS ITS OWN VERY DISTINCT VIBE AND MANY UNIQUE POINTS THAT CUSTOMERS CAN KEEP COMING BACK TO ENJOY.

More info: Underground Korea is located opposite Freebird in Hongdae. Address: ( B1) 19-11 Wausan-ro 17-gil, Mapo-gu, Seoul, Seoul South Korea Times: Open every day 6pm-4am Phone: 070-8841-2016 Facebook: www.facebook.com/UndergroundKorea

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 49

Taking place on Friday and Saturday nights (with plans to extend to other nights soon), the evening led by Tasos Nitsis brings the group to between 4-5 bars, including Underground. The bar also has DJs playing on the weekends, to give the Hongdae weekend crowd more of the party vibe they’re looking for once they arrive. In addition to its weekend nights, Underground offers creatively themed nights and specials almost every day of the week. On Mon-

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

range between KRW 8000 – KRW 20,000 with some generous portions. During my visit there, I sampled the fish and chips; the fish had just the right amount of batter and the chips were crispy and seasoned, just the way they should be. Underground also offers its patrons an impressive alcohol menu with many British inspired mixed drinks like Pimms and Earl Grey fizzes. They also sell British ales like St. Peters and London Pride that you may be hard pressed to find at other bars in Seoul. What’s more, both the food and drinks are sold at very reasonable prices, with variable daily specials. Drinks are priced between KRW 6,000 – KRW 10,000, with cocktails around KRW 7,000 and some 1+1 cocktail nights and free beer with certain food orders. In order to create the perfect vibe musically for Underground, Park did market research to see what would work best specifically for the Hongdae crowd. He found that EDM mash ups drew in the largest number of customers. Since then, Underground has currently been working with social meet-up group Absolute Pub Crawl.

day they have a Keep Calm and Love Mondays theme with house mixed drinks at KRW 3,000. On Thursday, they have Cinderella’s Ball, a ladies’ night where every lady receives a tiara upon entering and to end the week on Fridays, a simple 1 + 1 special delivers surprises from the liquor menu. Underground is still a very young bar so, although it has a lot of potential, it is still not yet a finished, polished product. In 2016, Sax and Park plan to remodel Underground into a much larger bar and to redo the lighting system. They also plan on bringing in a beer pong table and providing more board games at each table to further foster that intimate atmosphere. Sax and Park are on the fence about having an open mic night but it could be on the cards sometime in the future. Continuing with the British theme, the owner and general manager are considering hosting Sunday roast dinners to emulate weekend specials from the UK. It is not often you find a new bar that has so many kitsch items. If looking for a bar experience which offers an intimate and chilled vibe, fresh, gourmet food and British inspired mixed drinks and ales, then head to the Underground for the ride of your life.

2016

50 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPORTS

2016 2016GEARS UP TO BE ONE OF THE CLOSEST KBO TITLE RACES EVER Big names leaving for America means the gap between teams is wafer thin Story by Luke Butcher Photos by Korea Baseball Organisation and LG Twins

dramatic end to the 2015 Tirebank KBO season and the merry-go-round of a post season has left us perfectly poised for an exciting pennant race this year. While a lot of media attention will switch to the six Koreans playing in the USA this year, if you are looking for close and exciting games, going to watch any of the ten teams in the KBO promises to deliver and, with two new stadiums to visit, there is no excuse not to get yourself to a game. One of the new stadiums to find directions to is just outside Seoul, and is the country’s first fully domed stadium. The Gocheok Skydome near Guro Station will play host to the Nexen Heroes after Mokdong’s former residents were “persuaded” to move there by Seoul authorities, and the best part of it for the fans will be that it won’t be beset by the rain delays and cancellations that plagued the league last year. Unfortunately for Heroes’ fans, rain won’t be the only thing missing from the dome. Park Byeong-ho, Nexen’s home-run king, has departed to live the dream in the US, leaving a giant hole in the batting line-up. And he is just a part of the Game of Thrones-esque winter nightmare that has seen an exodus of players. Front-line batter Yoo Han-joon, closer Son Seung-rak and star pitcher Van Hekken have all departed, meaning Nexen victories might be the hardest thing to find at the new dome. Nexen’s strategy is something of a “Moneyball” idea, selling players at their peak value and developing youngsters. If Nexen’s CEO Lee Jang-seok wants to be played in a best-selling movie by Brad Pitt, he better have an ace up his sleeve or Nexen could be spending 2016 in the basement. The Heroes franchise is the most severe example of the general theme of the weakening of the top teams from last year. Else-

where, champions Doosan Bears have also taken a big hit after losing Kim Hyun-soo to the Baltimore Orioles. Kim was absolutely crucial during the season both in the batting line up and in the outfield, and was one of the most consistent players in the league, virtually allergic to strike outs. The Bears have filled the space with versatile American Nick Evans and have also brought in Michael Bowden to try to further strengthen the pitching rotation. A lot will depend on them, and given the Jamsil team’s diabolical record with foreign players over the past three seasons since star Dustin Nippert joined back in 2011, it might not be pretty. The beaten team in last year’s Korean Series, Samsung Lions, is still recovering from the gambling scandal that hit just after they had jogged unhindered through to the top of the regular season standings. Three key pitchers were caught gambling in a casino in Macau, illegal according to Korean law. Of the three Kenny Roger’s fans, aging closer Lim Chang-yong has been released and Samsung will miss his steady hand that produced 33 saves last year, while Ahn Ji-man and Yoon Sunghwan’s return will be rife with speculation as to how much they have been affected. Samsung has also lost big-hitter Park Sok-min to rivals NC Dinos and although the lineup remains strong, it is not as good a bet as before. The club’s long-vaunted move to a brand new and very impressive looking Samsung Lions Park in Daegu will be a must-go-to location for all KBO fans. Continuing the trend, last-years play-off wild card losers SK Wyverns have also lost out in the winter to one of its direct rivals, as Jeong Wooram has departed to Hanhwa Eagles to join up with former Wyverns manager and professional player-torturer Kim Sung-keun. Despite

SPORTS

NEXEN VICTORIES MIGHT BE THE HARDEST THING TO FIND AT THE NEW DOME

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 51

players and holding on to Son Ah-seop and Hwang Jae-gun for another year, even though they both tried to make their way over to the United States. Finally the suffering fans at Busan will have something to cheer, and I would put them as having a decent chance of overtaking SK, Hanhwa and Nexen and making it into the play-offs. The last three teams are likely to struggle down in the lower reaches of the League. Jamsil’s other occupants LG Twins had a poor year last year and are in a generational transition, and so will see this year as a step towards its goal of becoming a younger, base-running team. Kia Tigers need to find some bigger batting numbers this year to support the ever-likable Brett Pill, but have enough decent players to potentially cause an upset if certain stars align, especially if Yoon Suk-min can earn his huge contract and move from closer to a reliable starter to support key man Yan Hyeon-jong. Last but not least, KT Wiz, who finished its first ever season marooned at the bottom, has made some decent pick-ups in the winter. Yoo Han-jun has joined his hometown team to provide some more hitting and Travis Banwart arrives with a year at SK under his belt. With Andy Marte and Lee Dae-hyung the other stars, the Wiz could make up for a weaker bullpen with at least some decent hitting. The general closing of the gap between the teams promises a much more unpredictable year with a lot of close series and the usual high-scoring antics the KBO always throws up. And if you don’t like the Exhibition matches begin March 8 with the new season starting in April. baseball, there is still the chicken, KBO’s English website: beer and cheering to keep you en- www.eng.koreabaseball.com For further information, check out tertained. Don’t miss out. www.mykbo.net

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

the slightly mental fitness regimes, Jeong has good memories from the last time he linked up with Kim, when SK won the championship and Jeong was the best closer in the league. His move to the Eagles will finally relieve the pressure on overused relief pitcher Kwon Hyuk, who somehow kept his arm attached to his shoulder after being required to pitch almost nightly last season. Both SK and Hanhwa will be in the group of teams trying to grab the last two play-off spots outside the top three of Doosan, Samsung and NC. That brings us to the one team that has improved its position compared to last year and now has possibly edged into the position of favourites: NC Dinos. A massive statement was made by signing Park Sok-min from Samsung Lions and he will slot into a humongous looking batting lineup that boasts last years MVP Eric Thames, Na Sung-bum and Lee Ho-jun. It will be a big ask for pitchers to get through that line-up unscathed, and with Hacker and Stewart two strong starting pitchers with KBO experience, they look a decent bet to win their first pennant race since joining the KBO as a franchise in 2013. Another team that has improved and looks like recovering from a very poor two years is Busan’s Lotte Giants. Plagued by scandals, including spying on their own players, the club has finally shown some stability. Picking up experienced closer Son Seung-lak is a big boost but their strength will come from keeping hold of three very strong foreign

SPORTS Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

KBO Fans from the Casual to the Hardcore SABR and MyKBO are the best places for sharing your love of Korean baseball

52 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Story by Luke Butcher Photos by Harry Dean

Korean Baseball Organization (KBO)-loving expat community has never been as big as it is today, and with an ever-increasing number of expats in Seoul it can only continue to grow. With more and more KBO players breaking into the US, where there will be no fewer than six Koreans plying their trade next year, interest from the outside is on the rise as well. Whether you are looking to get entangled in the weird world of the KBO for the first time or have never found a way of meeting other fans before, there are two fantastic communities out there for casual fans and enthusiasts alike.For a start, one of the most famous

baseball-related groups has its very own Korea chapter. SABR, or the Society for American Baseball Research, is one of the most wellknown groups related to the sport around the world. The term “sabermetrics,” loosely meaning the use of advanced statistics in baseball, takes its name from the group since so many SABR members have been crucial in its development and acceptance, including Bill James, who coined the word himself. But SABR is more than a group of statisticians getting excited about WHIP (for non-baseball fans, it’s not as exotic as it sounds). Members publish historical records, stories and general theories on baseball and, if you are a big base-

ball fan, you could get lost in a vortex of time and space looking through their work or attending a meeting. The Korea branch was founded in 2013 by Thomas St. John and Patrick Bourgo, two people with a wealth of experience in the KBO as fans, writers and working within the game itself. As John explained, SABR welcomes a broad membership. “SABR is for the analytics but it is also a social network for those, in this case, who love baseball, want to know more, or are really into the mathematical aspects of the game,” he points out. “If you like baseball and what goes well with it, like beer, chicken, and the odd dried squid, you’ve found a new home.” Those that want to join can sign up easily, and anyone already a member in the US or elsewhere can transfer their membership to the Korea chapter. “We have been meeting a few times a year, but hope to meet more often in the future,” notes co-founder Bourgo. “We

IF YOU LIKE BASEBALL AND WHAT GOES WELL WITH IT, LIKE BEER, CHICKEN, AND THE ODD DRIED SQUID, YOU‘VE FOUND A NEW HOME. THOMAS ST. JOHN, CO-FOUNDER OF THE KOREAN BRANCH OF SABR

Join Los Diablos - FC Seoul’s foreign supporters club – for the opening home Asian Champions League fixture vs. Sanfrecce Hiroshima. 2.00pm, Starts at KRW 15,000 Sangam World Cup Stadium, Seoul

March 2 and every Wednesday League

Itaewon Pool League, 7.30pm, Team fees apply Bars around Itaewon and Haebongcheon including Scrooge, Sin Bin, Upper Deck. www.itaewonpool.org

March 5 Tournament

Opening round of the Korea Expatriate Rugby Association (KERA),All day, Free, Featuring Seoul Survivors and other expatriate sides from around Korea, www. facebook.com/SeoulSurvivors/

March 5 and every Saturday morning Team Training

Korea Touch (Rugby) Association, 10am Free, Jamwon Pitch, Apgujeong, Seoul, www.facebook.com/koreatouch

March 7 and every Monday League

Seoul International Darts League, 7.30pm Team fees apply, Bars around Itaewon and Haebongcheon including Wolfhound, RMT, Sin Bin. www. seouldarts.net

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

March 19

Seoul Gaels will be showing off some traditional Irish sports at the St. Patrick’s Day event, 1pm, Free, D-Cube in Sindorim, www.facebook.com/seoul. gaels/?fref=ts

March 19 / 20 Tournament

Manila 10s Rugby Tournament featuring the Seoul Survivors, All day, Flights and accommodation applies, Manila, Philippines, www.facebook.com/SeoulSurvivors

March 19 Live Event

ROAD FC MMA presents ROAD 29, Main card with a 7pm start, T.B.C. Wonju, South Korea, www.roadfc.com/ main/about/about.php

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 53

Check out: SABR: Twitter and Facebook (@KoreaSABR) or join online www.sabr.org/chapters/korea-chapter Check out: MyKBO: Website MyKBO.net, Facebook and Twitter (MyKBO.net)

March 1 League

SPORTS

usually discuss topics related to Korean baseball, both current topics and historical ones. Our meetings are open to the public, so even if someone is not a member, they are welcome to come.” With the amount of interest MLB teams are showing in players from the KBO and with the increase in the amount of money in the league, joining the chapter also allows those that want to make a career out of their favourite sport to learn more, make connections, and find out information otherwise unavailable even in the dark corners of the internet. With the new season coming up and some exciting plans for the Korean chapter in 2016, it’s one of the best times to join. “We will also begin going to games as a group, and meeting up with some legend players. Currently, there are a few things planned for 2016 which will be good for anyone interested,” according to John. For both of the founders, Korean baseball is not just a casual hobby done on the side, it is almost like a subject, and their combined wealth of knowledge on the Korean game would put even Korean baseball historians to shame. The growth of the KBO expat community can also be attributed to another baseball community here in Korea, MyKBO.net. Founded by American and Korean-born adoptee Danny Kurtz back in 2003, the site has grown to have over 1,500 members on Facebook and is the number one resource for information from how to buy tickets to the players with the best averages in English. The site began as a simple message board, motivated by the lack of an official KBO English website at the time and a desire to let fans who have yet to master the Korean language

get involved with the game in this country. Since then, MyKBO has become a full website packed with statistics, fan information and merchandise. What began as a simple project has thoroughly left the nest. “Through the use of social media, MyKBO has received some attention from media, scouts, and baseball people in North America. I've been told a few times that some MLB teams check my site regularly for news and info, and I am very honored that they do; I still can't believe that they know about MyKBO,” explains Kurtz. A quick look through the posters and members on Facebook shows friends and family of foreign players in the KBO even use it to keep in touch with how their loved ones are doing. But Kurtz still keeps true to the original goal of the site. “Despite the recent increase in traffic and recognition of MyKBO, my goal for the site remains the same, which is to continue to help fans learn more about the league and baseball in Korea.” The approach has proven very popular, and the community has grown to become its own organism. “The group is always super helpful to everybody; from the diehard baseball fan that's new to Korea and trying to sort out the KBO, to the guy visiting Korea for a weekend who just needs information on how and where to see a game,” according to Harry Dean, one of the most active members of the group. “Overall the baseball culture, and the experience, in Korea is phenomenal. I recommend even non-sports enthusiasts experience just one game.” Some real good has also come from the expat KBO community. When Paul Vogel, a KT Wiz fan back in the States lost his brother last year, he turned to baseball to overcome the grief. Two members of the MyKBO, Andre Linde and Matthew Care, decided to take it on themselves to raise money to purchase some KT merchandise and send it over. The whole thing snowballed, eventually ending up with Care passing the shirts to KT pitcher Chris Oxspring, himself a member of the group, and the whole KT team signed it and threw in a couple of baseballs for good measure. And how was the story spread? SABR co-founder Bourgo wrote about it in his column in the Korea Times, showing the connections and bonds MyKBO and SABR have forged between baseball lovers. Although baseball is the love that everyone shares, at the heart of both communities is the desire to come together to enjoy a shared passion.

54 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

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SOCCER’S BACK! Domestic action returns but can anyone stop Jeonbuk? Story by Steve Price of www.kleaguefootball.com Photos by Steve Price and Stephen Waddell, FC Seoul

2016 K-League season kicksoff with a bang, as defending champions Jeonbuk Motors take on last season’s FA Cup winners FC Seoul on the opening weekend of the campaign. This fixture attracted some of the biggest crowds of the 2015 season, and it is likely that Jeonju’s World Cup Stadium will be a sea of green come March 12. With both sides strengthening over the winter break, this match will give K-league fans a glimpse of whether FC Seoul has what it takes to overhaul Jeonbuk and reclaim the K-League Classic championship. Given Jeonbuk’s superiority over the past two seasons, in which it has strolled to two K-League titles, one might have forgiven the Honam side for being a touch complacent. However, manager Choi Gang-Hee has clear-

MANAGER CHOI GANG-HEE HAS CLEARLY TAKEN THE PHRASE “BUILD FROM A POSITION OF STRENGTH” TO HEART, AS JEONBUK HAS BEEN ONE OF THE BUSIEST SIDES IN THE TRANSFER WINDOW ly taken the phrase “build from a position of strength” to heart, as Jeonbuk has been one of the busiest sides in the transfer window, building a team that they believe can com-

pete not only in Korea, but also against the best in Asia. This will be put to the test when Jeonbuk face big spending Jiangsu Suning, who brought in Brazilian stars Ramires and Alex Teixeira over the winter, in the Asian Champions’ League group stage. Although Jeonbuk’s spending has been nowhere near that of Jiangsu and the other moneyed clubs across the West Sea, they did make a relative splash when they managed to bring in former Cardiff City midfielder Kim Bo-Kyung. Kim was heavily pursued by several English clubs last summer, only for his move to Blackburn Rovers to fall through due to work permit issues. Many expected Kim to be playing in Europe or Japan this season, but Jeonbuk swooped in and brought him back to the K-League. Judging by the way that he has been used in pre-season friendlies, it appears

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 55

The K-League’s opening round of fixtures takes place on March 12. K-League official site: http://eng.kleague.com/eng/main.asp Check out more from Steve Price at http://www.kleaguefootball.com/

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

FC Seoul essentially started last season without a strike force, and consequently struggled in the early stages, losing its opening three matches. The capital club seems to have learned their lesson, and have brought back fan favorite Dejan Damjanović from his two-season stint in China. The Montenegro international helped FC Seoul win the league during his last spell in the capital. He might be thirty-four years old, but his record of a goal every two games last season for Beijing Gouan shows that he still has what it takes to produce with the right supply. Damjanović joins Brazilian striker Adriano, who scored 18 times over the last campaign, and former Monaco star Park Chu-Young upfront in what must be the strongest forward line in the league. Even their fourth choice striker, Yun Ju-Tae, managed four goals in

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that Choi Gang-Hee is planning to make Kim Bo-Kyung the lynchpin of his new look Jeonbuk team. Another big, in both senses of the word, signing for Jeonbuk was that of last season’s K-League top scorer Kim Shin-Wook. Despite all of his goals, the “Wookie” has struggled to break into the Korean national team and has still not earned his desired big-money move to Europe. The six foot six forward will be hoping to show national team coach Uli Stielike that there is more to his game than simply being a target man. Behind Kim Shin-Wook lies an array of attacking options, with Ricardo Lopes, Lee Jong-Ho, and Ko Moo-Yeol joining from Jeju United, Jeonnam Dragons, and Pohang Steelers respectively, adding to what was already quite possibly the strongest attacking midfield in the league.

a single game against arch-enemies Suwon Bluewings last season. Expect to see some goals at Sangam this year. The other big opening day match sees last season’s runners-up, Suwon Bluewings, take on local rivals Seongnam FC. Suwon’s young side is full of up-and-coming talents who may well be the stars of Korean football over the next few years. One of the biggest talents in their side is midfielder Kwon Chang-Hoon, who broke into the Korean national side last season, and at just 21 years of age, certainly has a big future ahead of him. Kwon was joined in the national team by Seongnam’s young striker Hwang Ui-Jo, who finally showed some consistency and hit 21 goals in all competitions for the Magpies last season. Across the city from Suwon’s Big Bird Stadium lies the home ground of Suwon FC. Suwon’s other team won promotion to the top flight for the first time last season, and despite losing their star player Sisi to Polish side Lech Poznań, they will be hoping that their spell in the top tier of Korean football lasts for longer than one season. Fans will be eagerly anticipating May 14 when they take on their cross-town rivals as (relative) equals for the first time. Although most of the foreign players in the K-League hail from Brazil, South-East Asians in the country have a player of their own to cheer on this season after Incheon United signed young Vietnamese talent Luong Xuân Truòng. The youthful midfielder has impressed Arsenal boss Arsene Wenger in the past, and many players from Vietnam and its neighbors will be hoping that he can be a success in South Korea and use Incheon as a springboard for bigger things. With their quality additions, Jeonbuk is the heavy favorite to lift the 2016 K-League Classic Trophy, and will also be looking to challenge the hegemony of the Chinese clubs in the Asian Champions’ League. For FC Seoul, how quickly the club’s attacking options gel will decide whether or not they can start strongly and challenge for the title. Suwon Bluewings’s balanced young squad shouldn’t be underestimated either, while with ACL Champions’ League fixtures affecting last season’s top three, there is also a chance that a surprise contender may also challenge. Whatever happens between now and December, there’ll be plenty of fans across the country thrilled at the return to action.

SPORTS Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

56 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

FC SEOUL’S FOREIGN DEVILS: THE DIABLOS Once is happenstance; twice is coincidence; three times is enemy action.” With that quote from Goldfinger ringing in my ears, I weighed up what course of action I should take against this other foreigner who had appeared at FC Seoul’s

last three away games. Previously my sole preserve, this imposter had appeared at Gangwon in late April, turned up at Gyeongnam two weeks later and now here he was again skulking in Gwangju only seven days later. We looked each other up and down suspiciously in that way that foreigners of-

A foreign fan group’s journeys to the K-League and beyond with FC Seoul Story by Paul Carver Photos by The Diablos

ten do. He was kitted out in a leather jacket complemented with knuckle-dusters, tattoos and dyed hair; he didn’t look like my sort at all. He spoke first…”Christ!” I thought. “A Yank! He’ll be talking about ‘offense’ and ‘soccer’ and other such gibberish…” Luckily, despite that inauspicious start, Ryan became one of my closest friends in Korea and co-founder of the Diablos, a club set up for foreign football fans to get together to support FC Seoul. That first day, we agreed to meet to watch the next home

A TYPICAL MATCH DAY INVOLVES MEETING IN FRONT OF THE GS25 BY EXIT 2 OF THE SEOUL WORLD CUP STADIUM ABOUT 90 MINUTES BEFORE KICK-OFF FOR PRE-MATCH LIBATIONS AND BANTER.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

than 90 per cent of those games. We’ve also been abroad to Japan, China and Australia in support of our team. Once a year, the fans arrange a futsal tournament for all the fan clubs to take part in, which is always a fun day and we’re also often invited to play 11-a-side friendlies against other fan clubs. Suffice to say that our Sunday League bruiser style doesn‘t always go down well. There have been some great highlights over the years; seeing our members going just as crazy as everyone else when we got a last minute winner for our first victory away at Suwon for several years was a proud moment for me and seeing our ranks swell to become bigger than some of the more established groups has also been gratifying. Our membership is made up of English teachers, foreign students, business people, embassy staff and Koreans who’ve studied abroad, so we’re quite diverse. Given that most foreigners in Seoul only stay for a year or two, membership turnover is quite high, but at any one time we probably have about 20-25 active members and most members stay in touch and continue to contribute on our Facebook page after they’ve returned home. As usual, the end of the year has seen a big exodus of foreigners moving on to pastures new and so we will be looking for new faces to come and join us. We always welcome new members so if you’re missing live foot-

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game together and soon we were going up to other foreigners wearing Seoul shirts or scarves and inviting them to join us. Within a few short months, we had cobbled together the requisite ten members and in 2013 we officially applied for membership of the FC Seoul Supporters Coalition and were accepted as the 14th member group. (It is now up to 17 groups.) We’ve had an executive on the fan council for the past three years and as a group we get to vote on all things affecting the fans such as deciding new chants, protests against the manager or board and the like. Managing the group brings its own set of problems. The high turnover of foreigners in Seoul means that we’re on a perpetual recruitment drive and the language gap means that we sometimes struggle to contribute to Fan Club events but I think we are now fully accepted as proper fans by the other groups. A typical match day involves meeting in front of the GS25 by Exit 2 of the Seoul World Cup Stadium about 90 minutes before kickoff for pre-match libations and banter about our respective teams back home. The for-

THERE ARE 38 GAMES IN THE LEAGUE SEASON IN KOREA AND IN THE PAST FEW YEARS THE DIABLOS HAVE BEEN PRESENT AT MORE THAN 90 PER CENT OF THOSE GAMES. long-distance away games we’ll normally take the supporter buses provided by the club (a steal at KRW 5,000 return) or gather in one of our haunts to watch it on TV. A couple of times a year we also try and make a weekend of an away game, especially if it’s Busan or Jeju when the weather is warm. We’ve enjoyed great weekends in Ulsan, Pohang, Jeju, Busan and Yeosu in the past couple of years. There are 38 games in the league season in Korea and in the past few years the Diablos have been present at more

ball and want to make some new friends, get in touch either through our Facebook group where we post information about upcoming matches, transfers, and chant lyrics or by coming to say hello at the GS25 before or after any home match.

Diablo’s Facebook page: www.facebook.com/groups/DiablosBlancos/ March 1 @ 14:00 ACL second group game v Sanfrecce Hiroshima March 20 @ 14:00 KLeague Round 2 v Sangju April 2 @ 16:00 KLeague Round 3 v Incheon

• • •

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 57

eign fan community in Korea is quite small and close so we often grab a beer with any foreign opposition fans. We troop into the ground around 20-30 minutes before kickoff and shout ourselves hoarse for 90 minutes supporting the team. After the game, we return to the GS25 for a post mortem of the match and a celebratory drink. Often, we’ll also head on for dinner or for a night out. For local away games (Suwon, Incheon, Seongnam), we normally meet somewhere convenient and travel together and for

SPORTS Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

58 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

GEARING UP Seoul Survivors line up for a new season Story by Liam Ring Photos by Seoul Survivors

the winter chills finally begin to fade, Seoul’s expatriate teams will be emptying the sports equipment out of their cupboards and hitting the pitches again. Groove Korea caught up with two sides convinced that 2016 will be a big year for them. Instrumental in fostering rugby among expatriates on the peninsula since 1977, the Seoul Survivors have worked tirelessly to provide the local community with a chance to play what oval-ball aficionado Joshua Haney modestly terms the world’s greatest team sport. It isn’t only expatriates however, with plenty of rugby-loving Koreans also on their roster for the coming year. Fancy some scrum or lineout action this year? The Survivors will have plenty to keep you entertained. As perennial holders of the Korea Expatriate Rugby Association (KERA) Cup, the club is well used to plenty of success on the pitch domestically. Rounds of the KERA Cup are played on a monthly basis – with a break in the sweltering summer – and form the backbone for not only the Survivor’s season, but also for sides such as the Busan Bandits and Jeonnam Aliens, among others. Last season saw the club only drop one match during the KERA season despite some stiff competition, and the Survivors are determined to maintain the high levels of play and commitment necessary to secure bragging rights on the peninsula once more this season. In addition to domestic honors, the club is looking to add the Yellow Sea Cup to its trophy cabinet. According to Survivors stalwart Haney, “The past few years we've had some close bouts with rivals Beijing (Devils) and Shanghai (Hairy Crabs) and we are looking to finally recapture the East Asian expat prize.” It isn’t just on the pitch however, where the Survivors make an impact. Last year’s Movember charity event raised KRW 27.6 million for deserving causes including the Eastern Social Welfare Society and the

THE CLUB ALSO HAS A FANTASTIC SOCIAL PROGRAM THAT HAS IN THE PAST INVOLVED TRIPS TO 10S EVENTS IN THE PHILIPPINES AND CAMBODIA AND SAVORING THE EXCITEMENT OF THE HONG KONG SEVENS. Seondeokwon Girls Orphanage. Players of the club are in regular attendance at Sin Bin Sports Pub in Itaewon for the Six Nations and Super Rugby tournaments. The club will also be repeating its Tour de Han event, where members cycle between stages that coincidentally all end at convenience stores. Feel like doing something for charity? How about something as simple as growing a moustache for November and taking part in the annual Movember shave-off for a good cause? Korea isn’t always the easiest country to get attuned to, but the Survivors club is on hand to help gentlemen of all skill levels either get reacquainted or have a first time encounter with the game in a social yet competitive environment. The club also has a fantastic social program that has in the past involved trips to 10s events in the Philippines and Cambodia and savoring the excitement of the Hong Kong Sevens. As Haney will attest, there is rarely a dull moment if you are a Survivor, and many of the How to get involved people you’ll meet will Contact the club on its Facebook page (Seoul Survivors Rugby Club) or via email remain friends long after Football (seoulsurvivorsrugby@gmail.com). you and they have left Training is held every Saturday, 10am at Jamwon Rugby Pitch Apgujeong station), unless otherwise advertised. The the Land of the Morning (near seasons run from February to June, and August to November. With thanks to Joshua Haney for his assistance with the articler. Calm.

The Seoul Gaels lace up their boots for another 12 months on and off the field

Story by Patrick Hyland Photos by Seoul Gaels

Domestic action begins in April with the first round of the summer-long Korean League. The competition has gotten stronger each year, and this season we will undoubtedly see some tightly contested encounters between ourselves, Busan and Daegu. This season will also see hurling and camogie exhibition matches being played between select teams. In a massive development for the fastest games on grass, the very first independent hurling and camogie tournament in Asia will be held in Bangkok in May. Both the men’s and women’s teams will attempt to build upon last season’s achievements in June’s China games. This and July’s North Asian Gaelic Games are opportunities for teams to continue their preparations with competitive games before the continent’s showpiece event - the Asian Gaelic Games (AGGs) - in October. August brings the World Gaelic Games, where representative teams from the various continents will compete for silverware. With this year marking the centenary year of the 1916 Easter Rising against British rule in Ireland, the competition will be held on home soil at the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) headquarters in Croke Park, Dublin; a nod to how important the GAA was in the independence struggle

On the development side of the game, huge strides have been made to bring Gaelic football to the wider community in Korea. The number of kids taking up the sport and excelling at it continues to grow, and it is a testament to the amazing work that has been put in that they returned from the AGGs with gold last season. We look forward to building upon those successes this season. An action-packed schedule on the field will be complemented by numerous social events and family days throughout the year, giving new and existing members ample opportunity to get to know each other, get involved in exhibition games and fun activities and have the craic. Like all expatriate clubs, the Gaels are always looking for new members to take part in a fun and exciting team sport. Within the Seoul Gaels network there exists a unique sense of togetherness and connection, and you will be sure to make some friends for life. So come down to training, lace up your boots and see you in March! How to get involved Contact the club on its Facebook page (Seoul Survivors Rugby Football Club) or via email (seoulsurvivorsrugby@gmail.com). Training is held every Saturday, 10am at Jamwon Rugby Pitch (near Apgujeong station), unless otherwise advertised. The seasons run from February to June, and August to November. With thanks to Joshua Haney for his assistance with the articlet

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 59

fixture in the local community since 2002, Seoul Gaels are one of the most prominent sports clubs not just on the peninsula but throughout the continent. The club encourages people from all cultures and sporting backgrounds to try their hand at Gaelic football, hurling and camogie (the ladies version of hurling). Gaelic games are thriving in Korea - and indeed Asia - and the Seoul Gaels have been a driving force behind the continued development of the game on foreign soil. Last season saw huge success, with both the men's and women's teams collecting silverware from the Korean league, China Games and the North Asian Gaelic Games, and we are excited about achieving more in the next twelve months. March signals the beginning of the season with the Gaels in attendance at the Irish Association of Korea’s (IAK) annual St. Patrick’s Day festival. It’s a great chance to chat to prospective members, demonstrate skills, and encourage anyone interested in learning a little bit about our club and the sport. Also in March we will be holding a hurling and camogie skills day, where new and existing members of all skill levels can come together to fine tune their abilities or pick up some new techniques.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

KICK-OFF?

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FOR THE NEW

SPORTS Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

60 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Gecko’s Ice Hockey skate into 2016 with lots to play for

ICE ICE BABY

eoul’s expatriate sports community bristles with life throughout the year, with any couch potato in denial about opportunities to run, tackle, throw or skate given very little excuse not to get involved. This was not always the case however, with original Gecko Chris Damboise and friends remembering a barren sporting landscape in the dog days of the last

Story by Liam Ring Photos by Gecko’s Ice Hockey Team

century. Life was good. Work was good. But something was missing. And so, with a dream of regular ice time germinating within the group, a plan formed to get a hockey team up and running. The beginnings were certainly not easy, with no other expatriate teams to play against coupled with Korean sides doing their very best to ignore the upstart band of hockey-lov-

ing westerners. Getting the word out was a challenge too, with often barely enough players to make an evening on the ice rewarding. Bar sponsorship and a regular group of players helped with legitimacy, and suddenly Gecko’s was playing university sides and high school teams. Suddenly, according to Damboise, “it seemed like every ex-pat who ever played hockey, wanted to join our team.”

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 61

Check out the Gecko’s Ice Hockey Team Facebook page for more information on how to get involved.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

Fast-forward a decade and a half, and the club has a core group of guys and girls playing from countries as diverse as the Czech Republic, Sweden and Korea, a regular rink and ice-time at the home of the Anyang Halla professional team. The club play drop in games without a referee most Sunday nights from 9pm to 11pm and sign up is on a first come first served basis for the first 26 players.

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SUDDENLY, ACCORDING TO DAMBOISE, IT SEEMED LIKE EVERY EX-PAT WHO EVER PLAYED HOCKEY, WANTED TO JOIN OUR TEAM.

All ages and skill levels are welcome with the sponsors providing some free beer and snacks afterwards. In addition to regular inter-squad games, the club also lines up matches against Korean and other expat sides. Regular road trips has seen the side travel across the peninsula, with matches against sides from Daejeon, Busan and Ulsan. The Ulsan match against the Pirates is often the most anticipated of the year and regular Gecko Rob Gibson is unable to put his finger on what quite makes it his favorite trip of the season. “They have a fun rink, it’s a nice town, and maybe it’s the beer talking, but we always beat the pants off them.” It isn’t only peninsula-based action, with the club also traveling to international tournaments in numerous countries including Russia, Japan, Mongolia and Malaysia in recent years. Another source of competition for the club is last year’s revival of the Kimchi Pot tournament which had previously run from 2005 to 2008. The 2015 edition featured some great hockey and a visiting side from Beijing, leaving the club confident of another success this coming year. The club also hosts 2 annual tournaments to honor the Canadian service personnel who served during the Korean War known as the Gapyeong and Imjin River Cups. The Imjin event is of particular historical relevance, as it echoes hockey matches played by Canadian fighters during the Korean War. Played in Ottawa over the past few years, it will be part of many events based in Seoul in preparation for the 2018 Winter Olympics. This year will see some Canadian veterans of the conflict visiting the country, and there are tangible hopes that some of them can come out for one of the games. With a further eye towards doing some good within the community, the club will also be raising money for Pumassi, a charity that sends Korean children to countries who participated in the Korean war to personally thank veterans who are still alive. Pumassi also organizes letter writing projects where children write letters to veterans and are at the forefront in raising awareness of issues that Korean War veterans encounter. With plenty of opportunity for all levels of skill to get to skate, the club is on the lookout for recruitment to what it modestly terms the best expatriate ice hockey club on the peninsula. In the immediate future, the club is going to be entering the Youngsan Military Base’s annual slowpitch tournament, so anybody who can’t wait to get their skates on needn’t. Asked to sum up the appeal of playing with Gecko’s, Andrew’Bruiser’ Bruce puts it quite succinctly; ‘I’ve tried Jesus and I’ve tried Gecko’s: Gecko’s is way more fulfilling.” Time to hit the ice.

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

Thesis Coffee

Setting the standard for Gangnam cafes

62 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Story by: Rob Shelley Photos by: Laura Robertson

hat separates Thesis from the countless other coffee shops in the Gangnam area is their balance between serious coffee and delicious dessert drinks, making it an ideal spot for an after-dinner coffee. (It also helps that it's across from the best pizza in Seoul at New York Brick Over Pizza). Instead of the expected sugar bomb, their tiramisu latte was a pleasant surprise: only lightly sweet and made with actual marscapone. What really left an impression was the coffee brewing station in the middle of the cafe. At the front, there is a Fuji Royal grinder and pictures of the three brew methods available: Chemex, Aeropress or hand-drip. Behind the brew station is a number of Dutch coffee towers that produce a dark and chocolaty brew available hot, iced, or in latte form. While their roasting needs a bit of work, the atmosphere and the dessert are good reasons enough to visit Thesis. Address: Gangnam-gu, Gangnam-daero, 102-gil, 32 T: 070-4904-9551,www.inspiringcoffee.kr Rob Shelley writes about craft beer and keeps a Korean Beer Directory and Upcoming Events page at www.CraftBeerAsia.com/Korea.

tiramisu latte was a pleasant surprise: only lightly sweet and made with actual marscapone

Gwangju Sikdang Fiery Food at this Daechi Hole-in-the-Wall

Story and photos by: Jason Newland

sensation that continues to stack on top of itself like a game of Jenga until it becomes nearly unbearable and all comes crashing down. You may even need to make a mad dash to a corner store for some soothing yogurt, and the imo who has checked on you a few times will feel validated by her cautious reproaches, regretfully thinking, "Another one bites the dust." Luckily, the nakji bokkeum comes with a bowl of rice and a fleet of side dishes ranging from mukeunchi kimchi (the really old, smelly and sour kimchi) to fish cakes and bean sprouts which help fight the burn from the spices. There are a plethora of other side dishes accompanying those three standards: pajeon (Korean pancake), anchovies, vinegared seaweed, salad, pickled cucumbers and more. This is one of the best dives to stumble into after a night of work if you’re on the prowl for side dishes because they give you every banchan plus the kitchen sink. Caveats. This food is spicy. This place is popular. The tables fill up fast. It looks dingy on the outside. It looks dingier on the inside. It’s

Ambience:

Value:

Food/Drink:

run by older people who may seem brusque to some. On the other hand, it’s clean and cozy. The food is fresh. The constant flow of regulars keep the octopus turning over and in demand, which means you’re not eating old frozen stuff. This is a restaurant. However, this isn’t a place full of children. Children don’t eat at Gwangju Sikdang. This is a place company people come to drink and forget. This is a place to stop by for after dinner beer, soju, and spicy as spicy can be food to burn away the stress from overly busy days. If you're in the market for delicious agony, there are few places offering better than Gwangju Sikdang's nakji bokkeum at 11,000 won per person. It's a better option than heading all the way down to Gwangju and wagering if your stomach is fortified enough to avoid a nervy bus ride back to Seoul.

Address: Gangnam-gu, Gangnam-daero, 102-gil, 32 T: 070-4904-9551, www.inspiringcoffee.kr Service:

Score:

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 63

ome foods should come with warnings. Thankfully at Gwangju Sikdang, the stir-fried octopus, locally known as nakji bokkeum, comes with flashing red lights. The moment you order this dish, the well-meaning imo (or Korean aunt) warns you that it's spicy in a vain attempt to get you to buy something, anything else like the always safe bet of samgyupsal—you know, the pork belly bbq that has never made anyone keel over from excessive spiciness. Despite the pleas to change course, you should order it anyway. There are stories of folks being carried out of the restaurant due to the sheer pain from the meal's afterburn. You may have to argue with the server to order, but the imo will ultimately relent, perhaps with reservations and will sell you Gwangju Sikdang's nakji bokkum. People from other tables may stare as you eat. The spices are initially dry—a myriad of red on top octopus parts waiting to fry your insides. As you eat, the fire will build and build. It's not a spice that hits you from the first bite. That'd be an easy out. No, this is the kind of burning

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

Sweltering Tentacles at

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

Bite of the Month The City's Most Irresistible Destination Dishes

64 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Story and Photo by Andy Hume

uthentic Chinese food is surprisingly hard to find in Seoul, but the area around Daerim station in the city’s southwest offers plenty of options for the more adventurous eater. This aromatic, spicy beef noodle soup, or niu rou mien, packs a punch thanks to a healthy spoonful of Szechuan pepper paste that leaves your tongue tingling. Other restaurants in the area sell noodles, hotpot, lamb skewers, and —– you have been warned —– dog meat. There’s also a bustling market street where you can buy Chinese vegetables, pastries, dumplings and other delicacies that are rarely seen elsewhere. Most of the restaurants in this miniature Chinatown don’t have Hangeul on the menu, much less English, so find someone who can read Chinese or be prepared to point at something and take your chances. From exit 12 of Daerim station, turn left and you will immediately feel as if you have left Korea. Mr Lee’s, which does have a Korean menu, is on the right at the first intersection; look for the pink sign and red lanterns.

Spices Szechuan pepper Spring onion

tasty beef

Chineese noodles

Awesome bulion Niu rou mien (우육면, 6,000 won) at Mr Lee’s Meat Restaurant, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Daerim-dong 1057-7. Tel. 070-8251-5188

Story and Photo by Jordan Redmond

Restaurant Buzz

CHICAGO PIZZA POP-UPS, CALI-STYLE PHO, AND ALABAMA BBQ

new pizza sheriff is in town. Notable gourmand and man-aboutrestaurants, James Yu, has been doing few pop-ups featuring deep-dish Chicago pizza, something he should know well considering he hails from the Windy City. Check out Windy City Pizza on Facebook for future dates and locations. But be aware: the pizza goes away faster than the Cubs' playoff hopes.

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

The amount of quality pho around the city has been on the rise. Gyunglidan's Pho for You has joined the beef broth wave. This spot differentiates itself by being "Cali-style" pho and may be just the thing pho-starved Americans have been searching for. The broth is heavier and the meat is meatier. Rooster sauce is available but not necessary. Trips to immigration just got a lot more palatable: noted expat foodman, Joe McPherson, is opening a BBQ pub properly dubbed McPherson's BBQ Pub near Omokgyo Station out on Line 5. Pulled pork looks set to be the star and Joe will draw on all of his Alabama roots to make sure you leave fat and happy. Also, word has it the elusive pimento cheese will be on offer for wistful Southerners.

PHO FOR YOU Yongsan-gu, Noksapyeong-daero, 246-1 02-749-8947

MCPHERSON'S BBQ PUB Yangcheon-gu, Mokdong-ro, 228-4 010-9283-1696

Christmas in Barbados AN AMAZING TROPICAL COCKTAIL FOR YOUR END-OFWINTER BLUES Recipe and photo by Bobby Kim

ice

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 65

ver want to spend Christmas in a tropical place? Well, this cocktail will bring you close. A cold and refreshing Tiki-style cocktail on the bottom and a hot, white chocolate coconut cream foam on top gives this treat a bewildering texture and flavor. Falernum is a spiced liqueur made of rum, citrus zest, and various spices and is an essential component to many Tiki-style cocktails. The most interesting part of the cocktail is the hot foam on top: it's something you would want to eat spoon after spoon of by itself. The cream dispenser (maybe iSi if you want to get fancy) is kept in a water bath of 70°F, ready to be served hot. “It’s Hot and It’s Cold,” and just like Katy Perry’s best selling single, this one’s a hit.

1.5 oz. 1 o Origin Plan ta z. F al Dar tion .5 o r k R z. H esh P in um ous e M eappl .25 e J a d o u e F z. Ho ale ice Cho t Sou Lime Jui rnum sV co l ce id ate Coc e Whi Red o nut te and on To Foa p Gr m Sug een ar for Co *Se l o Ga r ve rni red d w it h sh no

66 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

TEST YOUR PALETTE WITH LIGHTS OUT DINING.

Dining in the Dark Story by Diana Weber Illustration by Gag Sokolat

eoul is overflowing with amazing food and enough culinary diversity to make each meal a unique one. Eating in a completely pitch black room has to be one of the most interesting dining experiences in the city. Le Noir, located at The Vault in Hongdae, offers patrons the opportunity to, well, dine in the dark. Diners have three options when it comes to ordering. You can order individual meals such as burgers, pilaf, pasta, or steak, which average around 15,000 won each, or a "Vault Set" made up of the aforementioned dishes and which range in price from 3548,000 won. Your third choice, which is recommended by the staff, is to do the Chef's Surprise which has three courses as well, but you are kept in the dark, so to speak, as to what they are. Just be sure to tell your server of any allergies you have so they can be sure to keep those ingredients out of your meal. After ordering and putting your cell phones in lockers (they are not allowed!), your guide dons night vision goggles, pushes aside a plush curtain, and leads you into a completely black room, quite the antithesis of the neon lights and flashing noraebang signs that are ubiquitous outside. After I adjusted to the darkness, my

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order arrived. First up was a salad which was quite difficult to eat in the dark; getting a tomato slice onto a fork without sight is no mean feat. Next was a chicken pilaf although I was not sure what it was for the first ten minutes. It was wonderful with a rich texture and sauce. It paired really well with the mango beer that I had ordered and subsequently almost knocked over. Last, and best, was the tenderloin steak. The most interesting part were the little side items that came with it, some of which were easy to identify (roasted vegetables, for example) and some of which were quite difficult to discern. Altogether, the food was quite good although not extraordinary. It seems like you are paying more for the experience than for the flavor, but it is well worth it. The only negative of the experience relates to the curtain mentioned at the beginning. Dining in the dark requires a certain suspension of

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disbelief, especially if you go into it with the intention which started this trend-to gain appreciation for the blind and to understand how the other senses jump in when such a major one is absent. When servers enter and exit the dining area through the curtain, however, a stream of light enters which breaks the illusion and brings you, involuntarily, out of the darkness. This is just a minor disturbance, one they can probably counteract by adding a few extra curtains, but this restaurant is absolutely still worth going to. However, make sure to call ahead for reservations. Le Noir is a one-of-a-kind dining experience. Passing food to your friends in the darkness, trying to guess what you are eating, and being perplexed together creates a lot of laughs and a lot to talk about after. And since cell phones are not allowed, it is a chance to talk without any distractions. No Facebook notifications, no text messages. Just you and those you care about being able to chat for hours without interruption. That is reason enough to go. Just don't wear a new, white sweater during the meal. Lesson learned the hard way. Mapo-gu, Seogyo-dong 364-4 02-338-8639

This is the place where you can experience Korean culture and get information about travelling in Seoul.

WEEKEND DIY

K-FOOD COOKING

K-POP DANCE CLASS

HAECHI HALL EVENT

HANBOK (Korean Traditional Costume)

KOREAN PAINTING CLASS

EMAIL seoulcenter3789@gmail.com

EXIT

Euljiro 1-ga Station

WEBSITE www.seoulculturalcenter.com (English support) FACEBOOK www.facebook.com/Seoulcenter3789

Myeong-dong Tourist Information Center

10 min. walk

OPENING HOURS 10:30am - 7:30pm open everyday except New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day & Chuseok

Myeong-dong Theater

TEL 02.3789.7961

EXIT

5 min. walk

ADDRESS 5th FL, M-Plaza, 27 Myeong-dong 8-gil, Junggu, Seoul

EXIT

Myeong-dong Station

A Lighthouse in Unchartered Waters

68 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Story and Photos by Rob Shelley

a chilly Wednesday in February, I found myself wandering through Ewha University's campus in the dark. I had taken the hour-long commute, on a work night, to check out the Hand & Malt’s brand new flagship taphouse. Since its opening at the end of 2015, the Hand & Malt Taphouse has occasionally been giving out free glasses of experimental ale aged in the brewery’s only cask. Hand & Malt president Bryan Do says that the taphouse will not be hosting regular events like wing night or trivia that other pubs use to drive business. “The events we have will mostly be catered towards us launching interesting casks from time to time for free.” Fresh off a year that saw the Hand & Malt create Korea’s first commercial hop garden along with the first barrel and cask-aged beers, Bryan Do promises to continue leading the way. “(Head Brewer) Brandon (Fenner) and I like to toy with cask ales to make interesting beers. Us beer geeks try new things all the time, just to do weird things.” And if their experiments one day go up in flames? “It’s just one cask. If it turns out well, great! If it doesn’t, it’s free beer,” he says laughing. On this chilly night, the free cask ale was a unique take on an original Hand & Malt beer: Extra Special Ale with Korean Gochu Peppers. The Extra Special Ale is one of the Hand & Malt’s original beers and one of my favorites overall. The Maris Otter malt gives it a unique biscuit, cream, and bready flavor. The special cask version had a spicy and almost fruity aroma of bell peppers. Upon sipping it, the beer was just as spicy as I hoped. There was a juicy, oddly pleasant vegetal taste that warmed the belly. The usually sweet Maris Otter malt combined with the spice to create a very satisfying sensation. I also tried their Belgian Dubbel which was specially crafted for Devil’s Door brewpub at Express Bus Terminal. For this beer, Fenner mimicked the traditionally-used Belgian candied sugar by using a traditional Korean string candy called "yeot". This beer was definitely as good as any other of the style I have tasted with notes of a sweet and minty spice.

Hand & Malt’s new taproom to light the way for the new Korean craft beer boom

IT’S JUST ONE CASK. IF IT TURNS OUT WELL, GREAT! IF IT DOESN’T, IT’S FREE BEER! - BRYAN DO LAUGHS.

The kitchen will be open sometime this month, but for now the beer selection is really the highlight. The Hand & Malt is almost

universally praised by local beer geeks as the best brewery in the country, and this taproom has their full selection served exactly as they should be. Bryan Do insisted that the reason this taphouse opened at all is to be a guide for all pubs in Korea. “We wanted a place to be the lighthouse for our beers.” In a quickly evolving craft beer market, where more bars and pubs are doing a better job of serving beer, it’s impressive that the Hand & Malt is striving to light the way. “It’s a craft beer pub in the purest form,” Do says about the Hand & Malt. “All of our beers have separate CO2 gauges and different temperatures. Our stout is being poured through nitrous.” These details might strike many beer drinkers as frivolous, but they ensure that South Korea’s most well-crafted beers are served under optimal conditions. “If you really want Hand & Malt beers the way they should be served,” Do insists, “that’s the way to go.” Address: 50-3 Daesin-dong, Seodaemun-gu Cost: Beers range from KRW 7,500 - 9,000 Contact info: www.thehandandmalt.com For more information of craft beer places and upcoming events check out Rob Shelley’s blog: www.CraftBeerAsia.com.

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

A Seochon FOODIE DATE COURSE Effortless, all-day eating and exploring in one of Seoul's hippest neighborhoods

70 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Story by: Jordan Redmond and Yoo-jin Oh Photos by: Peter Kim

springtime. Time for cherry blossoms, warmer winds, and longer walks. In other words, time for that foodie date you've been thinking about all winter but didn't have the cold weather gumption to attempt. You've spent the frostier months holed-up, ordering delivery pizza and Chinese, and not straying too far out of your comfort zone for fear of hypothermia. More importantly, you've resolved to finally "swipe right" on that certain someone who professes that Anthony Bourdain is a god. Seochon, a scenic neighborhood nestled between Gyeongbokgung and Inwangsan, is the absolute perfect place for such a foodie date. Traditionally, Seochon has been the dwelling area for the middle class dating back several hundred years but was neglected for much of the second half of the 20th century. These days the area is seeing a revival much in the way of Yeonnam-dong near Hongdae. Artisans of all kinds are populating its hanok-dotted corridors with fetching, idiosyncratic shops and restaurants. Spending a whole day perusing isn't just possible, it's necessary. At least amongst most foreigners, the word on Seochon is far from out, a fact that will likely score you points with your date as an intrepid urban explorer. Even though it's well-known amongst most Koreans, Seochon is a relatively quiet neighborhood and offers a nice counterpoint to the tourist hubbub of Bukchon. No massive tourist groups or congesting selfie queues. What you will find in Seochon is a rapidly changing area that still holds confidently to its past. Decades old traditional bakeries and sikdangs nest next to forward-thinking cafes and bistros. Make sure your smartphone battery is fully charged and your stomach is determined to stretch but not pop: Seochon is an optimal place for a food-centric date of inhaling and imbibing.

Mill(Bakery) -ë°&#x20AC; Considering the possibility that your date might go really, really well, you should snag some baked goods for the next morning. MILL, an alluringly charming bakery, will more than do the trick. Opened in 2013 by an aunt-nephew team who fell in love with bread during their 20 plus years in the U.S., the bakery only serves about ten different kinds of breads and is quickly becoming a beloved favorite frequented by the locals. You'll want to grab their incredibly soft brioche, especially the chocolate one, and also the hearty cranberry and walnut campagne. Using only organic flour and natural yeast, the breads served by MILL are ample, wholesome, nutty and most of all affordable. The bakery, on a cute sign outside the door, posts the time the bread comes out so make sure to stop by the bakery before your favorite is sold out! Most breads are in between 3,000 won â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 6,000 won and so won't break your date budget. -YJO Jongro-gu, Jahamun-ro, 9-gil, 6 02-733-1178

Killibanban -킬리뱅뱅 (third round)

23, 010-5848-0528

AND FOR A REAL FOODIE CRESCENDO, SUCK THE HEAD OF THE SHRIMP. NO, REALLY. IT IS TRULY DIVINE AND WILL SCORE YOU MAXIMUM POINTS WITH YOUR DATE.

Tongin Market

I Am Bagel 아이엠베이글

Mill

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

By now, either your date has likely tapped out and wants to grab a taxi home. You've likely thought the same thing but still have to show off just one more spot. Stick or move? Stick and forge ahead to Killibanban, a debaucherous Western-style bar just a few doors down from Gyedan-jib, just enough real estate in-between to suck down a cigarette or test your balance. The atmosphere here is typically rocking. Loud music, from James Brown to Jefferson Airplane, pounds out of the speakers and a disco ball whirls above the dimly-lit shoebox-sized space. This place appears to be a dive bar but serves quality scotch (Laphroaig 10 or Quarter Cask and Lagavulin 16) and some hip liquors like Ole Smokey Tennessee Moonshine and The Botanist Gin. Platinum-brewed beers are also available under creative names like "California Love" and "White Rabbit". In addition, bar snacks like cheese or jamon plates are there for the taking. By now, you and your date should be brimming with, well, a lot of feelings, both emotional and physical. Don't feel too bad about leaving that beer half-finished. Say a quiet "Hail, Bacchus" and finally get that cab. -JR Jongro-gu, Jahamun-ro 1-gil,

Juban 주반

Memil Kkot Pil Mulyeop Killibanban 메밀꽃필무렵

킬리뱅뱅

Sajik Park

Gyedan-jib 계단집

Map by : Luke Lelonki evit z

밀

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Juban-주반 (first round)

Jongro-gu, Sajik-ro 9-ga-gil, 12 02-3210-3737

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 71

Set down an alley in a refurbished hanok, Juban is one of Seochon's, if not Seoul's, best kept dining secrets. Having opened just last year, this small plates restaurant is an off-shoot of the lauded 7PM and similarly focuses on marrying top-notch Korean ingredients with international spices and preparations. Think elevated anju or drinking food. And drink you should. The alcohol menu dives deep into more obscure Korean traditional liquors. Go for the sampler which delivers four types of almost certainly unknown-to-you shots. Especially remarkable is the heobeok-sool, a Jeju spirit made with rye which imparts a curious whiskey twang. As for food, the musts are the Tongyeong-Marrakesh, marrying raw Tongyeong oysters with a light coriander-cumin salsa, and the Yeonggwang-Nice, a stunning and playful take on brandade but using dried and salted yellow corvina from Jeolla-do instead of the usual cod. Round things off with the Night Bazaar which is a Singapore-style fry-up of succulent squid with sweet chili sauce. Best of all, Juban is an incredible value, almost unbelievably so. You and your date will leave with silly smiles. Just watch your head on the way out. For anyone over 180cm, the old hanok door frames can harsh your mellow. -JR

Gyedan-jib -계단집(second round)

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

From the refined and relaxed to the red-faced and rowdy, get ready for Gyedan-jib, a Seochon staple that serves up incredibly fresh, some still squirming, seafood from Korea's shores. It can be a hard seat to get but put in your name and number with the properly gruff ajumma and wait for your reward. This place is entirely about local seafood and no-fuss preparations. Your options are raw and possibly steamed and as such will showcase the true essence of the thing you're consuming. Locations of the catch are even listed, a Portlandian's dream scenario. Gyedan-jib is known for its steamed giant cockles and raw baby octopus but save those for another jaunt. Give your date a wily look and order the "flower shrimp" or kkot sae-u. Ask for them raw or "hwei" and watch the previously skeptical ajumma koo with delight. Also, she will ask you, "Ssul?" and you should abide with a bottle of clean, charcoal-filtered Hallasan soju. What you will receive may be shocking at first: a lovely pink spiral of just-dead crustaceans. Drag them lightly through the provided chojang and marvel at their incredible natural sweetness. And for a real foodie crescendo, suck the head of the shrimp. No, really. It is truly divine and will score you maximum points with your date. -JR Jongro-gu, Sajik-ro, 115, 02-737-8412

I Am Bagel -아이엠베이글 Needing a spot to grab a coffee and a bite after exploring the cute niche shops deeper into Seochon, I AM BAGEL is your place. Opened in Seochon following the success of their shop in Yeouido, I AM BAGEL serves freshly baked New York-style bagels with various cream cheese spreads all made every day on site. Their bagels include everything from savory bagels like the elusive-in-Seoul "everything" and onion varieties to sweeter cinnamon-raisin and cranberry discs. The same variety goes for the cream cheeses with numerous varieties ranging from salmon-jalapeno to chocolate chip and maple-walnut raisins. The bagels, served freshly toasted, are moist, chewy and soft and beautifully complement the cream cheese. Have fun trying out various combinations of spreads with bagels or you can even go for one of their bagel sandwiches. Strongly recommended is their smoked salmon with cream cheese at a very reasonable price. You and your date will share groans of approval while biting into fresh smoked salmon on top of a crisp bagel and will discover they even snuck in a few capers. With a warm brick interior and Frankie Blue Eyes on the speakers, the two of you will feel like you've been whisked away to NYC. -YJO Jongro-gu, Okin 3-gil, 2-1, 070-4233-2881

72 www.groovekorea.com February 2016

Memil Kkot Pil Mulyeop-메밀꽃필무렵 Perfect to show off how well you know Seoul and your love for authentic Korean food, you should start your date at this time-worn restaurant called 메밀꽃 필 무렵 which sits amidst the high quality cafes that line the street next to Gyeongbokgung. Despite its battered exterior, the place fills up with old-time patrons lining up for its simple and modest buckwheat dishes cooked in a tiny kitchen. The menu, changing bi-annually to accommodate warmer and cooler weather, consists of only 4-5 buckwheat different buckwheat dishes. For a well-rounded experience, order to share the buckwheat noodle and the crispy buckwheat pancake. The hand-pulled buckwheat noodles have much more flavor and the slight nuttiness goes perfectly with the mild broth topped with spicy chilies. The pancake is also delightfully light and crisp but also chewy and should definitely be eaten with the slightly sour soy-sauce pickled onions which bring the whole package together. My personal favorite is the buckwheat pork and kimchi mandu, which, like the restaurant, is full of genuine flavor and authenticity despite slightly dinged-up looks. Personally, I’d recommend a bottle of makkeolli to go with the meals, and don’t worry, you’ll definitely not be the only one drinking for lunch! -YJO Jongro-gu, Hyoja-ro 31-1, 02-734-0367

GET YOUR SLICES RIGHT HERE

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

AND FOR A REAL FOODIE CRESCENDO, SUCK THE HEAD OF THE SHRIMP. NO, REALLY. IT IS TRULY DIVINE AND WILL SCORE YOU MAXIMUM POINTS WITH YOUR DATE.

Gino's NY Pizza offers up outstanding authentic pies and wings Story and photos by Peter Kim

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Standard classics such as NY Supreme and Hawaiian are also available, along with more artisanal choices like the Nellie Pie: a white pizza with fig jam and arugula, popular with those who want to get their yuppie groove on (or who just want something a little fresh). The buffalo wings are very respectable — a nice pungent kick on nicely sized pieces. The creamy parmesan garlic wings, though, are a savory and creamy mess. Extra napkins definitely required. Even though this is a pizza spot, it’s worth visiting Gino’s for the wings alone. They're even served with a proper amount of celery sticks, a small but important detail for wing lovers. Add in a punchy IPA from New York's Six Point Brewery, and you have some really tasty bar food sans pizza. Oh and can we talk about dessert? Glorious root beer (and Coke) floats in Cass mugs, with Fireball whiskey and other liqueurs also available. Using the proper root beer (A&W) provides proof that authentic comfort is the priority at Gino’s. Gino’s is technically still in its soft opening, though it’s been open for two months. A bar is being built and tweaks are still being made to the menu to hit that sweet spot of bringing true NYC flavors while also pleasing Korean tastes. Even considering they are still finding their Yongsan-gu, Noksapyeong-daero 40-gil, 46 stride, Gino's looks like a future heavy T: 02-792-2234 5:00 pm - 10:00 pm weight in the ever-evolving Seoul Tue: Wed-Sun: 12:00 pm - 3:00 pm; 5:00 pm - 10:00 pm pizza battles.

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March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 73

other topics will get expat foodies as riled up as the question of who serves the best pizza in town. As such, the mudslinging between factions that exist on online food forums can resemble a real life food fight. With Chicago deep dish pizza trending and Detroit pizza waiting in the wings, Eugene Kim and David Kim (no relation) have put on their aprons and added Gino’s NY Pizza to Seoul's ever changing pizza conversation. A cozy wood and brick interior greets guests, along with walls adorned with pictures of the many pizzerias Eugene researched in his native New York. At the time of writing this review, ten different types of pizza are available with several more in development. Pizza dough is tossed into the air, a trick that rivals the Turkish ice cream guys for sheer slight of hand. However, it's more than just an eyecatcher. Tossing the dough helps it to retain crucial moisture. The cheese pizza is thin and crispy, exactly what a New York slice should be. A welcome chew adds body and extends the pleasure of each bite. Each pizza is brushed with extra virgin olive oil before it leaves the kitchen like a mother kissing her kids before they leave for school. The crust becomes almost like a tasty breadstick, but the oil was a bit too much at times. When ordering, it might be something to consider leaving off.

LIFE ON THE OUTSIDE Surviving and embracing life outside of the city

74 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Story by: Tom Godfrey Photos by: Michael O'Dwyer and Drew Goldberg

To see more photographs by Michael O'Dwyer, go to www.facebook.com/michaelodwyerphotos | To read about Drew Goldberg's experiences in Korea and in many more countries, go to www.thehungrypartier.com

Advice for Life on the Outside…

Did you find yourself placed somewhere in the sticks of Korea? Don't worry, you'll survive. You might even thrive. If you need a little help, listen to these tips and words of comfort from people who have been there, seen it and done it before.

MOST OF US LIVE IN THE BIG CITIES BECAUSE THAT IS WHERE THE CONTRACTS ARE. MANY OF US LEAVE THE CITY ONLY FOR A WEEKEND ESCAPE. community forces expats deeper into Korean society. Raphael Falk was placed in Gongju by the Korean government’s TaLK program. Though technically a small city, Gongju’s small town mentality allowed Falk to try things that most expats have never heard of. “I took minyo [Korean folk singing] classes,” says Falk. “The class consisted of my teacher, two monks from a nearby monastery, a middle aged farmer from Buyeo, and three young grandmothers.” So, if you find yourself tired of city life or placed in a town that doesn't exist on the typical expat radar, embrace it. You probably need to learn Korean, but embrace that too.

Take a deep breath. Sure, now you can't get your mangoes or avocados without spending a lot of money but what you once took for granted now has value. It smells, sounds, and looks different but that's what is SO amazing about it. Living in the country can prepare you for the city and make you more appreciative of the people around you. Enjoy your walks around the neighborhood without the fear of being run down by a motorbike, car, or someone rushing to work. Take in the scenery! When you live in a small town you're more willing to explore and see what else is out there! In a big city you don't have to put as much effort into finding things and, in my opinion, this takes away that need for adventure and challenge. You become trapped between sky scrapers and never truly see the sky. Breathe. You can do it! Amanda Messer, formerly of Andong The countryside is mostly old people. My wife and I are nearly 40 years old and we're the youngest in the village by about 20 years! Korean grandmas and grandpas are the best. They're friendly, relaxed and don't really care where you're from. They're always happy to chat over some makgeolli and don't feel intimidated because I'm a foreigner Sean Walker, owner of the Damyang House www.thedamyanghouse.com, Damyang My #1 piece of advice is to learn Korean. My experience there wouldn't have been the same if I didn't take the time to learn Korean. Drew “Binsky” Goldberg, owner of www.thehungrypartier.com, Anseong Be flexible. Be open to new experiences. That's actually much harder than it sounds. If you have an aversion to trying new foods, you really need to develop a tolerance for different tastes and looks. There are certain frustrations that come with living in a small town, and you have to develop a tolerance or sense of humor about it. And you should explore the community you are in. I speak a bit of Korean now but all the local places I go to the doctor's office, dentist, gym, bakery, and restaurants – I could probably have little or no problem getting what I wanted if I didn't know any Korean. I've had friends make special trips to Seoul for minor doctor/dentist visits as they were just convinced they had to go to Itaewon or somewhere to be understood. With a little planning, flexibility, and patience, I think any expat's needs can be met. Michael O'Dwyer, owner of Michael O'Dwyer Photography, Taebaek

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 75

hen photographer Michael O'Dwyer applied to EPIK, he requested to be put in Seoul. Naturally, he soon found himself being bused to an old mining town in the Taebaek Mountains. O'Dwyer, a Texan, didn't know what to expect. “I really wondered if I had made a mistake,” admits O'Dwyer about his initial thoughts on arriving in Taebaek back in 2014. A warm welcome to his school and the ability to explore and photograph a more rustic life inspired him. Like all successful foreigners in Korea, he adapted, improvised and embraced his new life. He was then free to enjoy the things that only seem to happen in small towns. “Last year my friends and I went to the Taebaek Snow Festival,” he says. “This year we were all over the posters for the 2016 snow festival. It was weird and genuinely hilarious to see these pictures of us every day around town for a month.” The course of an expatriate's life in Korea hangs heavily on where they start out. Whether a year-long contract turns into a lifetime can depend on our first home here. Most of us live in the big cities because that is where the contracts are. Many of us leave the city only for a weekend escape. But, what about the expats who are further out? To live in a small town, village, or even one of the smaller cities is to experience a part of Korea seen as only a novelty by a city-dweller. Life outside of the major cities is no better and no worse; it is just a different set of challenges. One challenge is isolation. Drew “Binsky” Goldberg, like O'Dwyer, did not choose to be put in a small suburb of Anseong in Gyeonggi-do – he was placed there by GEPIK. “It was very Korean and a little intimidating,” he says. On his first day in town, he was treated to a welcoming dinner, shown his new studio apartment and then left to fend for himself until school started on Monday. While this is a common scenario for many expats during their first few days in country, it can be particularly stressful if you are, well, in the middle of nowhere. “It was hard to make any friends,” says Goldberg, who estimates the number of expats who lived nearby to be a whopping five. “Everyone stared at me like I was some kind of alien. Even simple things like going to the grocery store were difficult.” If isolation is a major hurdle of living away from the expat hubs, then the opportunity for cultural immersion is an undeniable benefit. Goldberg, who recently left Korea, assessed his situation and developed the courage to make his small slice of the peninsula home, after which he dove into Korean culture and food. He then took advantage of his environment and earned a black belt in taekwondo. He now runs the very popular blog The Hungry Partier. O'Dwyer has accepted Taebaek as his home and has just signed on for his third year. There is a strong possibility he might stay on for a fourth year. Living in a small town so close to nature creates a chance to see a part of Korea that is rare and close to extinct in other places. “There is much more of a traditional sense of living in Taebaek,” he says. “People regularly go hiking up the mountains and sing prayers off the peaks. [Off the trail] to the side there's a small chapel-house where traditional shamans meet and do their rituals.” Living inside a giant city like Seoul does not strip the ability to have an organic Korean experience; however, living in a small

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

T R A V E L

WITH ITS RELAXING HOT SPRINGS, DELICIOUS FOOD, AND FRIENDLY INHABITANTS, SUANBO IS SURE TO CHARM ANYONE, ONE WAY OR ANOTHER.

SUANBO:

A TOWN MADE TO PLEASE FOR A WEEKEND OF R&R, LOOK NO FURTHER THAN THIS SLEEPY TOWN IN CHUNGJU

76 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Story by Cale Noonan Photos by Cale Noonan and Tom Godfrey

here’s something truly enchanting about Suanbo that is impossible to put into words. It’s more like a feeling you get, or perhaps the aura that the quaint little mountain town gives off, that makes it such a special place. With its relaxing hot springs, delicious food, and friendly inhabitants, Suanbo is sure to charm anyone, one way or another. Getting off the local bus from Chungju, I could tell that our two nights in Suanbo were going to be great. The crisp mountain air felt refreshing in my weary urban lungs, and the wide, empty sidewalks were a welcome respite from the commotion of Seoul’s walkways. Suanbo is a sleepy little town whose heartbeat

never seems to reach more than a murmur. But that’s fine. My fiancée Maja and I had decided that instead of packing our schedule full as we normally do, our visit to Suanbo would be all about rest and relaxation. After getting settled into our hotel room, we headed out for a stroll to get acquainted with the town we would be calling home for the next two days. In the early afternoon, the town begins to wake up a bit, with spa-goers and those with appetites for pheasant arriving from out of town. On the face of it, the most noticeable thing about Suanbo is the number of pheasant restaurants. They’re everywhere, and they all have their own colorful replica pheasants staring at you imploringly as you

walk by. For now, though, our appetites would have to wait. After walking leisurely walking through the town (which takes up all of fifteen minutes to traverse if you put your mind to it), we made our way up to the Suanbo Park Hotel, which is home to the town’s most famous onsen (hot springs). It’s a bit of a huff to get to the hotel as it is located up a mountain, but it’s definitely worth it. They have separated men’s and women’s facilities which include indoor hot and cold baths, dry saunas, and outdoor hot baths. Unlike your typical jjimjilbang, the water in this onsen is spring fed, is extremely rich in minerals, and has a highly alkaline pH level of 8.3. The bathing experience here is

T R A V E L

of inches already lightly covered the ground. This lovely coincidence only added to the magical feeling that we’d already gotten from Suanbo. As we headed back towards our hotel, we picked up a couple of mart beers and drank them peacefully on the bridge over the small river running through town. As the snow fell, we reflected on our good fortune for having discovered this little gem of a town, unsuspectingly nestled between the mountains of Korea’s Chungcheongbuk Province. No matter what time of year, Suanbo is a great place to visit if you’re looking to relax and eat until your heart’s content. While you’re there, try to appreciate the simple things. And if you keep the itinerary open, this charming little mountain town will have a surprise waiting for you around every corner. Getting There: Take a bus directly to Suanbo from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal. If traveling from outside of Seoul, take a bus to Chungju and hop on local buses 240-246, located outside and to the right of Chungju Station. Suanbo Park Hotel: 838-1 Oncheon-ri (838-1 온천리). Yangjimal Garden Restaurant: Getting off at the bus station, head towards Suanbo Park Hotel and you will see Yangjimal on your left before you head up the hill to the hotel. Janggun Restaurant: Suanbo Jangteo 3-gil 18-5 (수안보면 장터3길 18-5). If you find where Jangteo 2-gil and Jangteo 3-gil intersect, you’ll find the restaurant on the corner

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 77

a few delicious single origin coffees. This cozy little café is a great place to relax any time of day, and they also sell an assortment of biking equipment just in case you are in need. Each time we visited M Coffee Factory, the family that owns the café was so kind to us, and really made us feel at ease. In keeping with our theme for the vacation, the next day was very calm and relaxing. We rambled aimlessly through the streets, simply enjoying the charm of this curious little place. I had some work to complete that day, so we hightailed it back to M Coffee Factory for most of the afternoon until dusk began to set. Having consulted the tourist information attendant earlier in the day for a restaurant serving rabbit, we diligently sought her recommendation for dinner. With an amiable pheasant perched right outside, Janggun Shiktang looked like any other restaurant in Suanbo. Little did we know, this would be the gastronomic experience of a lifetime. However, unwilling to part with KRW 60,000 for just rabbit soup, we opted for another pheasant set for the same price. Again, we were blown away with the amount of food we were served at Janggun with added extras of pheasant yukhoe, pheasant pajeon and pheasant skewers with onion and gingko berries. To our delight, it was snowing when we stepped out of the restaurant, and a couple

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

very refreshing and makes your skin feel great. I recommend waiting until nearly sunset to sit around the outdoor pool because then you get a great view of the adjacent mountainside as the sun sets. And once it’s completely dark, you can even see the stars twinkling in the night sky. Once we were finished at the onsen, we walked down to the bottom of the hill to try pheasant for the first time at a restaurant called Yangjimal Garden. There, a set menu for two people costs KRW 60,000, and includes pheasant bulgogi, pheasant shabushabu, pheasant yukhoe, pheasant mandoo, pheasant tangsuyuk, pheasant ywiggum, and a number of delicious local mountain vegetable side dishes. Pheasant meat tastes like a mix between chicken and duck: it’s more rich and delicious than chicken, but not quite as rich and fatty as duck. And if you’re inclined to imbibe like we are, a bottle or two of the local Sobaeksan makgeolli really makes this regional feast come together perfectly. As we went out into Suanbo’s starry winter night, completely full and satisfied, we both craved a warm cup of coffee to settle our stomachs. There are a few small coffee shops around, but few stay open very late, so it was a pleasant surprise to stumble upon M Coffee Factory. This café not only serves up your traditional favorites it surprisingly also offers

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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THE HIGHLIGHT OF A DAY IN SAMARKAND IS A VISIT TO THE REGISTAN SQUARE WHICH IS SURROUNDED BY THREE BEAUTIFUL MADRASSAHS: ULUG BEG, TILLYA KARI, AND SHIR DOR.

STAN –TRAVEL TO THE LESS TRAVELED

TAKE A TRIP TO THE GATEWAY OF THE SILK ROAD 78 www.groovekorea.com March 2016

Story by and Photos by Vivian Chan

rawn to the idea of visiting some of the continent’s more remote destinations, I decided to leave my vacation to fate and the whims of my trustworthy travel planner. Thus, following a degree of patience required to overcome a sprinkling of bureaucracy, my friends and I ended up taking a 10-day trip to the mysterious Uzbekistan. It usually takes less than one month to process a tourist visa, though a letter

of invitation from a travel agency is required for many nationalities to secure entry. Having applied to a travel agent in plenty of time to receive the necessary documentation, I was set for a visit to a country that had once been a gateway to the fabled Silk Road. Although only a short visit, my trusty travel plan told me that I was to visit the countries three main cities: the capital Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara. The capital is still recovering architecturally from a devastat-

ing earthquake that hit almost twenty years ago, meaning that many of the buildings are reconstructions. Nevertheless, there are several examples of magnificent Islamic architecture such as the Kaffal Shashi Mausoleum, the Tellya Sheikh Mosque, the Barak Khan and Kukeldash Madrassahs. The Kukeldash Madrassah is close to both the Chorsu Bazaar – where all manner of local sundries can be bargained over and bought - and Chorsu train station. For more recent history, head to Independence Square (Mustaqillik Maydoni) to see the Monument of Independence pedestal with the accompanying statue of a woman symbolizing the Motherland. All major landmarks are inter-connected by the Tashkent metro, which is decorated with local marble and granite, and offers some of the most ornate stations in the world. After exploring Tashkent, we took an express train and headed to Samarkand, the second biggest city in Uzbekistan. The city is bathed in ancient cultural auras, with many architectural

T R A V E L Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

historic and cultural ambience with numerous legendary tales to tell such as Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves. Including madrassahs such as Ulug Beg, Abd al-Aziz and the Magok-i-Attari mosque, there is also the Ismael Samani Mausoleum. This beautiful building is festooned with ornate brickwork and is among the best preserved buildings in the city. For a nod to the city’s past as a fixture of the Silk Road, the traditional trading domes of Tok-i-Sarrafon, Toki-Zargaron, and Tok-i-Tilpak Furushon have stood since the sixteenth century when merchants from across the region came to Bukhara to trade in jewelry. As a center of Islamic culture, the seat of Tamerlane and as part of the famous Silk Road, Uzbekistan can leave you breathless with the beauty, history and culture attached to it. The only regret from our trip was that if we’d had two more days, we could have also travelled to Khiva, which is regarded by many as akin to an open-air museum. Maybe next time…

Uzbekistan Travel Tips: * The best travel months to visit are between May and October * English is widely understood in the major sightseeing spots but not many people speak English in the more remote areas. * Bringing US dollars is highly advisable as there aren’t many ATMs except for in major hotels in Tashkent. When you exchange US dollars to sums (UZS), please keep the receipt / exchange slip which has an official stamp on it. When you leave Uzbekistan, please present the receipt/exchange slip in order to exchange your remaining cash to US dollar due to the currency control in Uzbekistan. * Going through the customs can take some time at the airport. Patience is needed and make sure you have all the visa documents at the ready. For more information about Uzbekistan, visit the following websites: www.uzbekistan.or.kr/index.php www.uzbekistan.or.kr/index.php www.mfa.uz/en/consular/visa www.mfa.uz/en/consular/visa

March 2016 www.groovekorea.com 79

masterpieces included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The highlight of a day in Samarkand is a visit to the Registan Square which is surrounded by three beautiful madrassahs: Ulug Beg, Tillya Kari, and Shir Dor. All three madrassahs exhibit distinctive Islamic architecture and have small shops inside which sell local handicrafts. Another site of profound historical significance is the Gur-E-Amir (Gur Emir Mausoleum) -"Tomb of the Ruler". Dating back to 1403, it is the mausoleum of the Asian conqueror Tamerlane, the founder of Tamerlane Empire in Persia and his descendants. The inner rooms house geometrical and epigraphic ornaments and the actual tombs of Tamerlane and his descendants are covered by dark green jade. From Samarkand, a 6-hour drive took us to Bukhara via a visit to Shakhrisabz (the birthplace of Tamerlane). Bukhara is a UNESCO World Heritage city with relics dating back 2,000 years. It is a city which, although lacking the architectural beauty of Samarkand, is still rich in

LISTINGS

Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

EMBASSIES American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdonggil (Jeong-dong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpa-gu, Seoul

Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu

Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea

Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000

Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Seoul Intl. School (031) 750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Dong-gu, Daegu

Dulwich College Seoul

Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr

Dulwich College Seoul offers an exemplary British-style international education (including IGCSE and IBDP) for over 600 expatriate students aged 2 to 18 from over 40 different countries. 6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul, Korea. www.dulwich-seoul.kr admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr 02-3015-8500

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Jeju Air 1599-1500

French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul

T’way Air 1688-8686

Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

British Airways (02) 774-5511

Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921

Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180

Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

HOTELS & RESORTS

FAMILY & KIDS

Jin Air 1600-6200

Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700

Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

D ETUR

PO NS MU

NDO

Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age. A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. / www.etonhouseprep.com AMUSEMENT PARKS Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do BOOKSTORES What the Book? (02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books. Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

HEALTH ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products. Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051 • 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Yaksan Obesity Clinic (02) 582-4246 • 1364-7, Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul • www.dryaksan.com FITNESS Exxl Fitness Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul • www.exxl.co.kr Daily Morning Ashtanga Yoga Mysore Classes (English) Jivamukti, Forrest, Universal Yoga (Korean) Apgujeong Rodeo Stn, Exit 4 (02) 515-6011• www.taoyoga.kr UROLOGY & OB Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul

ANIMAL HOSPITALS Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / www.cwhospital.com

HAIR & JOY Served as Art Director at London’s Renowned RUSH SALON and nominated by the Guardian for “Best Hairdresser”

Woori Pet Hospital (02) 393-6675 • 299-1 Youngcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

MUSEUM & GALLERIES National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean. National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture. Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals. National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do

Trained at TONI & GUY and VIDAL SASSOON Academy in UK Color, Perm, Magic Straight, Treatment and more English Spoken For more info, call Johnny Phone 02.363.4253 Mobile 010.5586.0243

HAIR&JOY

Mapo-gu Dong gyo-dong 168-3_ 3F Seven Uniqlo Springs

www.hairandjoy.com Gangnam groove ads.pdf 1 Apgujeong Branch

QUNOHAIR

19/01/2016 17:14:37 Phone 02.549.0335

Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

www.qunohair.com

10-6, Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

DRAMA

ART MUSIC

Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays.

SERVICE

Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul C The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art. M 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and ChuseokY holidays.

SPORT

COMMUNITY

Plateau MY (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul CY 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays.

ACADEMIC

CMY

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

HonhIk Univ. Stn. Line2 Exit8

FRIENDSHIP

Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.

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