Groomer to Groomer September 2021

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“THE GROOMING INDUSTRY’S TRADE MAGAZINE!” VOL. 40 ED.9 • SEPTEMBER 2021

WWW. GROOMERTOGROOMER .COM

AKC BEST IN SHOW WINNER CAT OPSON AT GROOM EXPO WEST 2021

PHOTO BY ANIMAL PHOTOGRAPHY

2021 SHOW RECAP & CONTEST RESULTS

THE SECRETS TO CREATING A FABULOUS

FINISH

GROOMING THE

PRIMITIVE

COAT


AN D I S.CO M




CONTENTS | SEPTEMBER 2021 THE SECRETS TO CREATING A

Know

BEFORE You Buy oo & Product amp s) (Sh

40 by Jenny Farrell

by Jonathan David

Hosler: How Do You Save Time? 6

Conner: The "Doodle Craze" & Its Effect on the Grooming Industry Bishop-Jenkins: Grooming the Primitive Coat 12 Hansen: Rub-A-Dub-Dub, Kitty In the Tub! Groom Expo West Recap & Contest Results 18 Tutorial: Gorgeous Galaxy Yorkie Spotlight: Lucky Dawg Pet Grooming 28 Outshines the Rest Faver: Anal Glands: "A Pain in the Butt" 34

22

54 58 62

New Products / Groomer Humor

68

Show Schedule / Industry Events

70

48

by Dave Campanella ON THE COVER

“THE GROOMING INDUSTRY’S TRADE MAGAZINE!” VOL. 40 ED.9 • SEPTEMBER 2021

WWW. GROOMERTOGROOMER .COM

AKC BEST IN SHOW WINNER CAT OPSON AT GROOM EXPO WEST 2021

PHOTO BY ANIMAL PHOTOGRAPHY

2021 SHOW RECAP & CONTEST RESULTS

Kathy Hosler Daryl Conner Khris Berry Jonathan David Deborah Hansen Dr. Cliff Faver Jennifer Bishop-Jenkins Blake Hernandez

THE SECRETS TO CREATING A FABULOUS

FINISH

Copyright September 2021. Groomer to Groomer is published monthly by Barkleigh Productions, Inc, 970 West Trindle Road, Mechanicsburg PA 17055. Postmaster: Send change of address to Groomer to Groomer c/o Barkleigh Productions, Inc., 970 West Trindle Road, Mechanicsburg PA 17055. Annual U.S. subscription rate $25. Outside U.S. $79. year, surface rates. Groomer to Groomer is free to current Barkleigh Productions, Inc. customers. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission of the publisher. Editorial offices: 970 West Trindle Road, Mechanicsburg PA 17055. (717) 691–3388 FAX: (717) 691–3381 Email: info@barkleigh.com

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GROOMING THE

PRIMITIVE

COAT

AKC BEST IN SHOW WINNER CAT OPSON AT GROOM EXPO WEST 2021 PHOTO BY ANIMAL PHOTOGRAPHY

Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 9 • September 2021

5


GROOMING GAB

by Kathy Hosler

HOW DO YOU

SAVE

TIME? At a recent gathering of groomers, our topic of discussion found its way to how busy everyone there was. The conversation went something like this...

“I

wish there were more hours in the day,” Bill said. “By the time I finish grooming, get home and have a bite to eat, it’s time to go to bed.” “Not me,” said Sally emphatically. “I don’t want to work more hours. I just want to groom the same amount of pets I do now, but do them in less time. I’d really like to hear everyone’s best timesaving tips and tricks.” Betty was the first to speak: “Keeping my work area organized is my best tip,” she said eagerly. “I keep my most–used, essential equipment within arm’s reach of my grooming table. I always know where everything is and never have

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 9 • September 2021

to hunt for my favorite comb or undercoat rake. “ “I find that doing things in the same order on every pet helps keep me on schedule,” said Joan. “And, I make all my bows and bandanas ahead of time. I don’t use my precious work hours to do it.” “I have everyone drop off their pets in the morning,” Jim states. “That works best for me. I don’t have constant interruptions after I begin working.” “My tip is, buy the best equipment you can afford,” Joan offers. “A good force dryer can quickly pay for itself. It saves a lot of time and puts a great finish on the pet. Having

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quality equipment, and backups, will save you from downtime because of equipment failure. “My adjustable table and tub are real timesavers for me. Having the pet at the correct height to work on helps me get done sooner,” Joan continues. “And, my clipper vacuum and bathing systems save me so much time. I wouldn’t groom without them. If they help me save 10 minutes on each pet, and I groom six pets per day, I can get finished an entire hour sooner!” “Being mobile, I arrange my schedule by grouping clients who live in the same general area together. That really saves travel time,” Tara



“I always have the owner sign a release if I feel it is necessary—whether it is for a matted pet, senior pet, or whatever. It saves a ton of conflict, stress on me, and time.” – Allie

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 9 • September 2021

says. “Every Tuesday I go to the ‘over 55 condo center.’ I have so many clients there that I don’t move all day—the pups just keep coming!” “You may not think of this as a timesaving tip,” shares Allie, “but it really is. I take before and after pictures of every pet, and also anything I find that is out of the ordinary. Then, if an issue ever comes up, I have proof of what the pet looked like. Oh, and I always have the owner sign a release if I feel it is necessary—whether it is for a matted pet, senior pet, or whatever. It saves a ton of conflict, stress on me, and time.” Barb says, “While I am working, I let the phone go straight to voicemail and I return all calls at the

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end of the day. It weeds out a lot of people who are simply price checking, asking for donations, or trying to sell me a car warranty.” “Me too,” adds Ronni emphatically. “And, it’s also my policy that everyone in the salon can only use their phones during breaks. Before, some of the stylists would constantly be scrolling Facebook or on Instagram. It not only wasted their time, it took their attention off the pet they were supposed to be grooming.” As we chatted, we all got some great ideas and decided to meet again in one month and report on what worked for each of us. After I got home, I realized that I should have mentioned something I do that shaves time off of every



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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 9 • September 2021

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groom, builds my business and adds to my bank account. I pre–book the pets I groom and place them on a recurring schedule of two–, four– or six–week appointments. Why? It saves me time in a lot of ways. When a pet comes in on a set schedule, there is no time– consuming de–matting or shaving. There is usually very little or no prep work needed before I put the pet in the tub, and the actual grooming is not hard on me, my equipment or the pet. By pre–booking I am able to plan my schedule far in advance and arrange it for my convenience. Now that my clients are used to having their pets on a recurring schedule, my days run smoother and I have far less stress. Having clients on a consistent schedule also keeps me busy year round. And because I no longer have slow periods, my income has increased substantially. Pets that come in regularly are a lot easier to work on and grooming them is tremendously less stressful than trying to get a #4 blade through a doodle that has not been groomed since the pandemic started. Actually, you could probably groom four well–maintained dogs in the time it takes to work on that one matted doodle. Having their pets on a preset schedule is a big plus for the owners, too. It helps them simplify their life. They don’t have to remember to call for an appointment. They get in the routine of having their pet groomed every four weeks, or as frequently as you suggest. It enables them to book ahead for special events and to get guaranteed holiday spots. If you are not already pre–booking your clients, now is a great time to start! Time is one of the most valuable things each of us has. Try some of these tips and see how much time they can save you. &


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THE GROOMERS GUIDE

by Jennifer Bishop-Jenkins

GROOMING THE

Primitive Coat

K

nowledge gained from the mapping and sequencing of the canine genome over the last 20 years has been of real interest to science researchers all over the world, but also gives those of us in the grooming profession some critical information. Since cracking the code of the dog DNA, there has been a flood of information about dogs,

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 9 • September 2021

their co–evolution with us and their many amazing attributes. One of the most dramatic discoveries is that we now know that dogs did not descend from the wolf. Dogs and wolves have a common ancestor, but the wolf as we know it today is more a cousin of the dog, not an evolutionary parent. Another fascinating revelation came through work done by a

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science team led by Pontus Skoglund, globally–recognized expert in ancient DNA and head of the Ancient Genomics Laboratory in the United Kingdom. Skoglund said in an interview with Live Science, “Genetic evidence from an ancient wolf bone discovered lying on the tundra in Siberia’s Taimyr Peninsula reveals that wolves and dogs split from their


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common ancestor at least 27,000 years ago…[T]his opens up the possibility that domestication occurred much earlier than we thought before. Although the prehistoric wolf went extinct, its genetic legacy lives on in Arctic sled dogs…Siberian Huskies have a portion of their genome that traces back exclusively to this ancient Siberian Wolf…It’s pretty amazing that there is a special genetic connection to [an ancestor wolf] that roamed the tundra 35,000 years ago.” Greenland dogs also carry some of this ancient wolf DNA, as do the Chinese Shar–Pei and the Finnish Spitz, the study’s authors reported.

Skoglund et al., 2015, Current Biology 25, 1–5 June 1, 2015

FIG. 1

PRIMITIVE BREEDS Dog breed experts often call these most ancient dog breeds “Primitive breeds.” The international governing organization for all dog breeds and the largest dog organization in the world, the FCI (www.fci.be), keeps an extensive and valuable genetic database about them. Other websites are devoted to these special dogs as well, such as www.primitivedogs.com. Skoglund’s team created a diagram to help visualize their findings in canine DNA (Figure 1) that there are really only two “breeds” or categories of dogs: the primitive or Arctic breeds most closely related to wolves; and all the other breeds we know today—those that are more the result of human manipulation.

THE TRIPLE COAT While the primitive breeds have much diversity of coat, as do all dogs, many of the prim-

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itive breeds we see today are described as having an “Arctic” or “triple” coat—that is, a double coat with two layers of undercoat instead of one. The three layers are especially visible when blowing a high velocity dryer onto a full–coated Chow Chow. Figure 2 clearly shows the rich, darker red guard hairs or topcoat on this Chow; the lighter, fuzzier undercoat; and the almost black (like their tongues) insulating fuzz along the skin, making up the third layer of the Arctic, triple or primitive coat. Any regular double–coated breed, such as an Australian Shepherd, will easily show the skin when blown or pulled apart

The Triple Coat FIG. 2

Rich, darker red guard hairs or topcoat on this Chow; the lighter, fuzzier undercoat; and the almost black (like their tongues) insulating fuzz along the skin make up the third layer of the Arctic, triple or primitive coat.

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 9 • September 2021

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FIG. 3

FIG. 4

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 9 • September 2021

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(Figure 3). Note the darker, more substantive guard hairs and the fuzzier, lighter undercoat of this Australian Shepherd, an ordinary double–coated dog. The skin is easily revealed on this Aussie because there is only the topcoat and the undercoat. There is no third layer of thick fuzz along the skin line as in triple–coated primitive coats such as Samoyeds, Chows, Pomeranians, Huskies and Malamutes. In this photo of a Husky coat pulled apart (Figure 4) it is very hard to see the skin at all. One sees, instead, a dense layer of protective Arctic fuzz along the skin—a triple coat. These three layers combine to protect the body’s vital warmth in harsh climates. This extra–thick undercoat sits underneath the weather–resistant top coat, or guard hairs, the primary hairs that provide the critical infrastructure of this highly purposeful coat. The insulating undercoat can shed out seasonally to varying degrees.


WHAT DOES THIS MEAN FOR GROOMERS? These primitive coats are qualitatively different than any other kind of coat groomers work on most of the time. That thorough, “combed–through” feeling we are used to experiencing on every dog we groom simply does not apply to the primitive or triple–coated dog. They are not supposed to be able to be combed through from the skin out, as we are trained to do on most dogs. Sadly for these special dogs, groomers often make critical mistakes when a Samoyed, Chow, Husky or Pomeranian comes in for services. Some of us will rip and tear and yank and pull until we can get a comb through them from the skin out, thereby damaging the critical layer of undercoat along the skin line and causing pain to the dog. Or, worse, we decide they are hopelessly matted or pelted and shave them, doing serious and often permanent damage to these impressively self–care coats. When speaking to groomers at educational seminars, I have actually witnessed emotions of regret from groomers, even tears, when they realized in learning all this that they had been hurting the dogs instead of what they wanted to do which was to help them. They had mistakenly thought these coats were just hopelessly matted and needed to be shaved when they couldn’t get their combs through the coat down to the skin.

dogs into our care on a regular basis, is use the high velocity dryer thoroughly during the bath and conditioning steps, in addition to during the drying portion of the groom. This will loosen the undercoat that is ready to shed out, making the final brush–out much easier, less damaging and more effective. Obviously, getting a primitive breed dog in on a regular schedule year round, as with any breed, is critical to a less painful and more productive groom. Temperature regulation in these coats goes both ways; it also keeps them cooler in the summer by protecting their thin skin from the sun. Educate your clients when they ask you to shave their dog because they wrongly assume that when it pants in warmer weather it is suffering in the heat. Take time to explain the way the coat on a dog protects its skin from the sun and how removal of the protective coat has been linked to cancer and compromised immune systems, as well as a permanently damaged coat.

Monthly baths with conditioning, blow–dry and brush–out will help keep this coat healthy year round. Remove the shedding undercoat, especially during the months prior to the summer and winter solstices when the undercoat changes with the seasons. It will come out easily with a blow dryer, a slicker or pin brush, and a wide–toothed comb or rake. Remember, when brushing these kinds of coats, you only need to brush or comb out the outer layers of the coat. Stay away from the skin with metal tools. Let the air pushed by the high velocity dryer be the only thing touching the skin. Dog breed experts know that the primitive coat types are qualitatively different, and groomers should too. A clipper or a pair of shears on a double or triple coat can damage, often permanently, the structural topcoat guard hairs that protect and control the undercoat. Cutting away all three layers of a primitive coat can forever change nature’s perfectly–evolved balance. &

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 9 • September 2021

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2021 CONTEST RESULTS

L

enis si worth autendam quodis alicidel It was well the wait for the groomers essum etur sit, consequos estibus attending Groom Expo West in Pasadena this past et alique moloribuscia provid July. Thedel show normally takes place in February quoditem seque num sequi rem incil idineos and is the second largest grooming show the aut quati nam ea voluptatur arumquunto world behind only Groom Expo in Hershey, PA. earum num nis maio bearchi ctoreiu sanUnderstandably, there were fewer vendors dam dernati atiore di que and attendees thanisti theoptatem previousetyear, but those omni abores doles demfull accuptas autem attending were taking advantage of what the show to ut offer. A higher percentage eiur sunt, had utasit ea dolo omnitesto bla of groomers attended classes and vendorsexreportquo cor aditia coneturi dignatemquam ing sit having good sales. cea rem very et millorpos ent alibus ut quam To bring backperci with reicid a bang, qui non porrothings ommolut utthis fug-year featured firstlaever at consequam, Groom Expo ite porumthe quam dioparty maxim West. The Pooch Perfect-themed party et occumque dus magnihil ius abo. Moswas ex held Saturday night. Many attendees dressed exerum repudici corporerum dolore voloas their favoriteet contestant Poochvollit Perfect. magnis ut omnis from aut abore que Foxy la Roxy Supply Co. gave a $250 gift certificate parchic itatur aut moditatur alignatiust od to the winner, came es looking like Macie quia custwho hiliquas ut occulpa nos etPisa. in Groom Expo West 2022 will be held at the pratum nobisti qui to estem harum que nit Pasadena Convention Center February 16-22.

BEST IN SHOW SPONSORED BY AKC

WINNER CAT OPSON

qui nus enis si autendam quodis

BEST ALL AROUND

SPONSORED BY FOXY ROXY’S SUPPLY CO.

WINNER HELEN SCHAEFER

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RESCUE ROUND UP 1ST PLACE SPONSORED BY BARKBUS

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BEST FIRST TIMER

SPONSORED BY NATURE’S SPECIALTIES

JULIAN RUIZ GroomerWINNER to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 9 • September 2021

RESCUE ROUND UP 2ND PLACE

RESCUE ROUND UP 3RD PLACE

WINNER KRISTIE REISENWEAVER GroomertoGroomer.com

WINNER MIKHAIL WILLIAMS

SPONSORED BY BARKBUS

SPONSORED BY BARKBUS


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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 9 • September 2021

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2021 CONTEST RESULTS

CREATIVE STYLING PEOPLE’S CHOICE

OPEN CREATIVE STYLING 1ST PLACE

WINNER MILENA KON

WINNER LESLIE WALDREP

OPEN CREATIVE STYLING 2ND PLACE

OPEN CREATIVE STYLING 3RD PLACE

WINNER MILENA KON

WINNER ALYSSA KASIBA

BEST SCISSORING AWARD

COMPASSIONATE GROOMER AWARD

SPONSORED BY ANDIS

SPONSORED BY ANDIS

SPONSORED BY SHEAR SAVER

20

WINNER CAT OPSON

Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 9 • September 2021

SPONSORED BY ANDIS

SPONSORED BY ANDIS

SPONSORED BY SHEAR SAVER

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WINNER JESSE RAMIREZ


POODLE

POODLE

1ST OPEN

1ST INTERMEDIATE SPONSORED BY WAG’N TAILS

SPONSORED BY WAG’N TAILS

WINNER CAT OPSON

WINNER ASHLEY BELTZ

WINNER MASAKO DUMAS

1ST OPEN

1ST INTERMEDIATE

1ST ENTRY

WIRE COATED

1ST ENTRY

WIRE COATED

SPONSORED BY WAG’N TAILS

SPONSORED BY BLACKWORKS

WINNER KRISTIE REISENWEAVER

WINNER RENE CAZARES

WINNER TERESA HOLLECH

1ST OPEN

1ST INTERMEDIATE SPONSORED BY EARTHBATH

SPONSORED BY EARTHBATH

WINNER NICOLE HILLISON

WINNER TRACY DOWNING

WINNER TERESA HOLLECH

1ST OPEN

1ST INTERMEDIATE SPONSORED BY GEIB

1ST ENTRY

SPONSORED BY GEIB

WINNER HELEN SCHAEFER

WINNER JULIE ROSA

WINNER ELITA GALIAMOVA

1ST OPEN

1ST INTERMEDIATE SPONSORED BY EARTHBATH

SPONSORED BY EARTHBATH

WINNER SARAH DROUIN

WINNER ERIKA TOPETE

WINNER ALYSSA ORTEGA

SPORTING

SPONSORED BY BLACKWORKS

SPORTING

SPONSORED BY BLACKWORKS

ALL OTHER

1ST ENTRY

ALL OTHER

SPONSORED BY EARTHBATH

FREESTYLE

FREESTYLE

SPONSORED BY GEIB

SPONSORED BY EARTHBATH

1ST ENTRY


Know

BEFORE You Buy & Produ oo p cts) am h (S E by Jenny Farrell e

It’s very important that you, as a groomer, are buying quality products created just for dogs. This article covers a few things you need to be aware of when buying shampoo, conditioner or any product that’s going on a dog’s skin. PH LEVEL First of all, canine and human skin are not biologically the same. Both have a part of the skin called the acid mantle, which is a film that lays on top of the skin acting as a barrier against pathogens such as bacteria, viruses, fungus and other microbes that could potentially cause the body harm. This acid mantle

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needs to be kept at a pH suitable for that species. In humans, the acid mantle pH is slightly acidic at between 4.5 and 6.2. The acid mantle on a dog requires a slightly alkaline to neutral pH of 7.5 to function correctly. The pH scale is from 0 to 14, with 0 being extremely acidic such as battery acid, to 14 being extremely alkaline such

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as drain cleaner and 7 being neutral such as water. If you are using a shampoo, conditioner or product with an unfriendly pH level, you can cause the acid mantle to break down or not function correctly leading to skin infections, itchy skin, allergies and sores. Not all shampoo and products are the correct pH—even those sold



Better–quality shampoos are usually around

32:1 to 52:1. This means the 52:1 shampoo is very

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DILUTION RATIO Another thing to look out for is the dilution ratio. Shampoos come in different concentrates, especially professional–grade shampoos vs commercial–grade shampoos. You want a shampoo with a high concentration and you will know this by looking at the dilution ratio. Ratio is displayed by numbers; for example, 2:1. This means 1 part shampoo to 2 parts water. Commercial shampoos often do not need diluting so they don’t have a ratio. However, professional shampoos will, and the better–quality shampoos are usually around 32:1 to 52:1. This means the 52:1 shampoo is very concentrated and a gallon of 52:1 will last a lot longer than a gallon of 3:1 shampoo. Medicated shampoos tend to be less, such as 6:1, because a stronger solution is needed and usually requires a soaking time. Often you may think you have a better deal by buying the cheaper shampoo, but they work out to be more expensive as they have a low concentrate and cost almost the same as the higher concentrates which also usually have better pH and better ingredients.

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through grooming trade companies. You must look for the pH level. Most good–quality manufacturers will put the pH on the label; if the pH is not labeled, it’s probably not the correct pH.

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Shampoo is not always just about cleaning a dog. You can also enhance the color of dogs' coats by using color–specific shampoos without dye or colors. These shampoos are designed to brighten coats or enhance a specific color; for example,


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Offering a variety of shampoos can also be used as an add–on service. Doing this can increase your revenue by offering special shampoos that do specific jobs for additional fees. whitening shampoos for white coats, copper shampoos for red coats. They are purposely designed to reflect light which enhances the coat color. Whitening shampoos can really bring out a white coat in comparison to a non–whitening shampoo. You can use them on grass stains and particularly dirty, stubborn areas to help remove dirt and enhance the overall brightness of the coat.

ADD–ON SERVICES Offering a variety of shampoos can also be used as an add–on

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 9 • September 2021

service. Doing this can increase your revenue by offering special shampoos that do specific jobs for additional fees. There is a vast selection of other products based around bathing to enhance the dog’s appearance, health and your revenue. Doggy facials can be offered by using dog–specific face scrubs designed to reduce or remove tear staining and/ or enhance a white face. Other extras to offer are paw scrubs for cracked pads and nose balms to reduce dryness on noses, which is common in bully breeds. You can really build a great

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“Extra Services” menu when you explore the variety of shampoos and skin care options now available specifically for our canine friends! Remember, dogs can’t choose what we put on their skin, and once it’s on, it’s on. It’s our responsibility as a professional groomer to ensure high standards of animal welfare and health are consistently met. Make sure you only use products that will have a positive impact on the dog’s skin and leave the dog comfortable, clean and happy. &


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SALON SPOTLIGHT

by Jen Phillips April

LUCKY DAWG

Photos by Lucky Dawg Pet Grooming

PET GROOMING

Outshines the Rest

When Torrance, California–area dog owners look for a groomer, they’ll likely come across Lucky Dawg. That’s because the family–run business is one of the largest in the Los Angeles Metropolitan area—with ten mobile pet grooming vans and a luxury brick–and–mortar location.

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 9 • September 2021

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O

wner Mike Butler says, “As a dog and cat groomer myself, I am passionate about raising the standards within the pet grooming industry. Our goal is to provide the best customer service experience for our customers and ensure the pets receive one–on– one care and attention. Ninety–nine percent of our grooms are completed and picked up within two hours.” A native of England, Mike was a certified automotive mechanical and electrical engineer and area manager of the service and parts departments for 13 car dealerships in his previous career. However, he loved animals, and a family visit to California inspired his career change. “My sister had married an American man and been living in California for twenty years. In 2004, we came on vacation and fell in love with the weather. My sister called a mobile groomer to groom her dog, and I got talking with the groomer. The groomer wanted to retire,” Mike shares. Mike says he went home to England and worked out the finances. “I discovered I could buy the business and operate it on an investment visa. It seemed like a good opportunity. The previous owner had about 75 customers on his books and offered four weeks of training. Unfortunately, that training only lasted two weeks until he disappeared.” Fortunately though, Mike was a dedicated student. He was able to live with his sister while he learned grooming and the dog grooming business. She answered the calls and booked appointments. After a year, his wife and two young sons came to join him. Mike’s wife, Alison, took


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over the appointment scheduling and they built up the work until Mike was grooming seven days a week. They then bought a new van and added a new groomer. Since then, they’ve added a new van and a new groomer every year until now, with their current fleet of ten. In 2012, Lucky Dawg added a physical location, too. According to Mike, “We needed a space to park our vans and maintain them.” Maintaining a fleet of mobile grooming vans requires space not just for parking, but also for daily maintenance. Part of the daily maintenance includes plenty of water. “We carry two tanks, one 75–gallon of fresh water for bathing and a tank for the collection of dirty water. We have to empty the dirty water via a sewage drain each day according to local regulations. With the building, we could create a sewage drain in the back,” Mike says. The building is in a small shopping center with an abundance of parking. At 1,800 square feet, it was bigger than the business needed, but it’d been empty for two years due to the recession, and they decided it was worth the investment. Now they had ample parking space and a building. It seemed natural to open a physical location for Lucky Dawg, but Mike didn’t want to take away from the mobile business. Therefore, he had to think through opening a physical salon while still maintaining the best parts of the mobile industry. “We decided to model the positive comments from mobile,” Mike shares. Besides the convenience of a come–to–you service, people appreciate the one–on–one attention the groomer is able to give their dog. “With our mobile grooming, we groom the dog and give it back


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A former mortgage office, the building lent itself well to individual grooming.

within 90 minutes. We wanted to replicate this one–on–one and quick turnaround time in the physical environment,” he says. A former mortgage office, the building lent itself well to individual grooming. Mike says, “The building had six 10’x10’ glass–enclosed rooms with glass doors. I walked in and thought we could turn these into individual grooming rooms and give dogs uninterrupted attention. It would be a great environment for groomers too because they could work on the dog undisturbed.” The Butlers invested $30,000 into upgrading the electricity and plumbing, and on permits, paint, tiling, grooming tables, tubs and other equipment to get the salon up and running. Since they didn’t have a business

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for a physical location and didn’t want to take away from the grooming vans, they had to think of possibilities. They converted two of the existing offices to self–wash. That provided some revenue as they built up the salon business. After two years, they converted those self–wash stations to full–time grooming spaces, as that was more profitable. “We also built out a salon reception and mobile office. It was important to me to have a receptionist. That way, the groomer can focus on grooming. It’s best for the dog and the groomer that we have a receptionist who handles the phones, schedules the appointments and payments,” Mike continues. Because the groomers aren’t interrupted, most of the grooms are started, hand–dried to achieve the perfect finish, completed and picked up by the customer within two hours. “Another benefit,” he adds, “is it reduces the number of dogs we have in the salon at any one time. We have no more than ten dogs at a time in the salon. It creates a calmer environment.” Not only are there fewer dogs in the salon, but those dogs don’t wait in kennels or cages for their turn. Because of Lucky Dawg’s appointment policy, dogs who come in at 8 a.m. are out by 10 a.m., dogs who are in at 10 a.m. are gone by mid–day, and so on. Plus, while many salons put the pups into a kennel or cage pre– or post–groom, Lucky Dawg doesn’t. Instead, they can take advantage of their ample space to minimize the use of kennels and cages. “We have a large space in the center of our grooming salon where we can tether the dogs ten feet apart with anchors in the floors. Once tethered, they can rest on the dog beds and interact with staff walking by,” Mike shares.


As Lucky Dawg grows, its operations have become more complex. While they started with a customer index card system and a weekly appointment planner, they’ve now adopted technology to make things run smoothly. Hayden is Mike and Alison’s youngest son. In 2019, he graduated from Cal State Long Beach with a double major in Business Management and Operations and Supply Chain Management. Hayden upgraded their record–keeping and scheduling system by implementing a software program to manage operations. Mike says, “We’re more efficient with [software]. We use it for scheduling, client and pet information, text reminders, medical and vaccine information, and photos. We can color code for different services and add important information to make our day more efficient. It also produces specialized reports for each groomer and helpful financial information. We run a seven–day–a–week operation, so there’s a lot to keep track of.” Hayden also assisted in training a lot of the staff, which currently totals 21 individuals, including groomers, bathers and receptionists. Their groomers groom 30–35 dogs per day at the salon and 45–50 per day between the 10 vans. These days, Alison helps cover gaps in any shifts and usually starts the day early by opening the business at 7:30 a.m. but leaves once the workday is underway, though she fills in as needed. One of the family members is always available to ensure each day runs as smoothly as possible. While Lucky Dawg had to close for several weeks due to COVID, their reopening was pretty simple. “We were lucky because of the salon layout,” Mike shares. “The groomers are already separated more

than six feet apart. We were able to dedicate four numbered parking spots outside with signs that had our telephone number. Once customers park, they call to let us know, and the receptionist informs the groomer. Then, the groomer goes outside to meet the customer and discuss the dog’s groom and any health issues.” The American Kennel Club recognizes Lucky Dawg as a S.A.F.E. (Safe, Assurance, Fundamentals, Education) Grooming Salon. This designation requires special training via an online course with an exam. Mike says, “Part of the S.A.F.E. designation is an oath that has 16 requirements for us to follow on a daily basis. For example, we can be inspected at any time by a member of the AKC without notice and we must have an approved disaster plan in

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place in case of an emergency.” This promise fits within Lucky Dawg’s philosophy of providing the best customer service experience and ensuring the pets receive the one–on– one care and attention they deserve. Lucky Dawg is also proud to be a member of the National Dog Groomers Association of America (NDGAA) and National Cat Groomers Institute (NCGI). And their customers recognize their hard work. “We’ve won a lot of awards. We’ve been voted best business locally with many five–star ratings. We’re very community–minded and donate to local schools and nonprofits. Overall, we want to create a high standard of recognition for the industry,” Mike concludes. Their customers are truly “Lucky Dawgs.” &

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DERM CONNECTION

by Dr. Cliff Faver

A Pain in the Butt Anal glands are scent glands located at five o’clock and seven o’clock around the anus. They are tear drop–shaped glands that lie under the anal sphincter muscle with very small openings to the edge of the anal area.

I

n a normal situation, they are emptied when the animal squeezes the muscle against the bowel movement or tenses with a stressful situation. In the wild, animals use these glands as a way of marking their territory or as a distraction when being pursued by a predator. In social settings, you may have noticed that animals tend to sniff the rear end of other animals, this is because they are trying to pick up a familiar scent. In our domestic animals, these

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functions are less significant. However, the health of the glands is still important. In most situations the animals can maintain the glands themselves. Occasionally they will “scoot” if the glands become enlarged, which is usually adequate for relief. If the scooting is frequent (more than once or twice in a close time frame) or there is excessive licking of the area, the glands could be impacted or infected and need further attention. Impactions occur from over–production of the gland, loose stools, GroomertoGroomer.com

infection or any irritation of the area that causes swelling. The anal gland secretion is normally an odiferous liquid, but can change to a thick, pasty–type debris that is very hard to excrete. If a problem occurs, it is best to consult a veterinarian to evaluate the issue and to give the animal relief. Depending on the situation, the veterinarian will come up with an appropriate follow–up plan which may include antibiotics, infusing the gland and/ or follow–up checks. Left unattended, these glands can easily abscess and


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Many feel that routine expression of the anal glands is helpful to prevent issues. If done incorrectly, frequent expressions can cause a rupture or irritate the openings which prevents the normal, healthy out–flow.

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create a larger issue. Many feel that routine expression of the anal glands is helpful to prevent issues. If done incorrectly, frequent expressions can cause a rupture or irritate the openings which prevents the normal, healthy out–flow. The technique plays a significant role in this. The correct way to express an anal gland is to insert an index finger into the rectum and use the thumb to “milk” the gland. This method gives a better feel for the size of the gland and the amount of pressure required to empty the gland. In most states, this method is reserved for the veterinary field. Another method commonly used by non–medical personnel is the external method where the glands are squeezed on either side of the rectum. If the gland is healthy and easily expressed, this can be done with minimum incident. The issue with this method is that the gland cannot be clearly defined and there is no way to adequately trap the gland. This requires more pressure and often leads to much more irritation of the area than the internal method, and potential damage/rupture to an unhealthy gland. Worst case scenario, when the glands become impacted or abscessed, they often will rupture, leaving a hole on either side (ventral) of the anus. If this occurs, it is important to seek veterinary care. These can be treated surgically or as an open wound, depending on the situation. Once these glands rupture, the chance of reoccurrence goes up immensely. The glands can be removed, but it is not recommended at the time of the rupture. A good time to consider removing them is a couple of months after the rupture has healed. One complication to be aware of in removal is scar tissue or nerve damage that can lead to incontinence. This is a very hot topic when it comes to the grooming industry. Most groomers do not particularly enjoy expressing anal glands, but feel they are


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Just because the local veterinarian sends clients to you for gland expression and recommends you follow through does not mean it is legal in your state. Make sure you are aware of the laws! forced to do them by veterinarians. Let’s go back and look at the history that led to this… Veterinarians used to encourage their clients to come in for routine anal gland expressions. As veterinarians got busier, they taught their staff and groomers (external) how to take care of the routine and they only dealt with the diseased glands. The difference between the veterinarian and groomer is that groomers did not charge for the service. That made it an easy choice when price was a concern. Unfortu-

nately, when things go wrong (during that free service) guess who is responsible to pay for the “fix?” There are a few important things to consider before moving forward with anal gland expression. First, know the laws in your state. Is it ok to express anal glands? Can you do them internally or is only external legal? Can you charge for the service or is that considered practicing medicine? Just because the local veterinarian sends clients to you for gland expression and recommends you follow through does

not mean it is legal in your state. Make sure you are aware of the laws! Second, if you offer this as a free service and you rupture a gland, it could potentially cost you in a court battle with the pet owner. Often, the groomer is not truly at fault, but they are still held liable. If you decide to compensate the owner for the bill, that free service could cost you around $500–$1,000. So, let’s think about that from a business aspect: If your profit (not wages) is $20 per groom, then that means you will have to groom 25–50 dogs to recoup the cost of treating the dog. Was it really worth offering that service? The general rule of thumb is, “If it isn’t broke, don’t fix it.” If things are left alone, the animals tend to do very well on their own. However, it is imperative that we observe the animal’s behavior. If they have a problem and it is truly “a pain in the butt,” their behavior will let us know. & Dr. Cliff Faver graduated with a BS in Biology/BA in Chemistry before getting a Veterinary degree in 1987. He is the past owner of Animal Health Services in Cave Creek, Arizona and now the US distributor for Iv San Bernard products, teaches the ISB Pet Aesthetician Certification program, and speaks internationally on hair and skin. His passion is to merge groomers and veterinarians to aid in helping and healing pets. He is also a member of AVMA, AAHA, AZVMA, Board member with Burbank Kennel Club, and has served on Novartis Lead Committee, Hill’s International Global Veterinary Board, and a Veterinary Management Group.

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BUT WHY?

by Jonathan David

THE SECRETS TO CREATING A

We’ve all seen some good grooming in our lives—and if you’re really paying attention—you’ve seen some great grooming. Whenever I see an amazing grooming, I try to figure out what makes me drawn to that particular grooming; what exactly is grabbing my eye?

S

ometimes it’s a pretty profile with eye–pleasing balance, while other times it’s the impressive technical work. But one thing that always gets my attention is an amazing finish; that kind of finish that is smooth and crisp, free from scissor or clipper marks and has a plush and velvety surface that you just want to run your hand over; and so well– trimmed that even after several passes with a comb the hair just snaps right back in line with the others to keep an even and smooth surface that takes

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your breath away. Yeah, you know the finish I’m talking about; it’s the envy of all groomers that strive to do their best work but wonder how to achieve it. Well, one of the secrets to a great finish is choosing the right products to help you achieve it. But why are finishing products something we should use? I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: Every great groom starts with the prep, but there’s also a big factor of a great grooming ending with a beauti-

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ful finish. The finish is the final result; the extra attention to the details such as smooth scissoring, using thinners to blend out any visible scissor or clipper marks, and using your favorite grooming sprays to tame static and add moisture or shine to the coat, or even a hairspray with a touch of sparkle. If you’re grooming a Westie, for example, using products to add volume to the head to give the appearance of a teased–out show look can tip the scale of your grooming from good to great and a customer from happy to com-



The most basic of ways to improve your finish is in the technical work itself. Smooth scissoring and blending with thinners is the most obvious and easiest way to step up your finish.

pletely impressed. That same customer will brag about the dog to anyone who will listen, giving you free advertising—a win–win for everyone. Let’s go over some techniques and products you can use to add a fabulous finish to your grooming that will go a long way in giving you a competitive edge.

TECHNICAL WORK The most basic of ways to improve your finish is in the technical work itself. Smooth scissoring and blending with thinners is the most obvious and easiest way to step up your finish. Working on improving your scissoring skills is not only a way to improve your finish, but it’s also a valuable improvement in your skillset alone. When you use snap–on combs or a clipper, there are always a few visible lines left in the coat. Take a few minutes to try to “top–scissor” those spots to even out the hair. If you’re still developing your skills, try using a thinning shear to do this task as thinners are much more forgiving. And, if you haven’t developed a steady scissoring skill yet, a thinning shear can be an excellent tool to help in this area. Use the thinners to top–scissor over the area that has scissor or clipper marks. What this means is you won’t cut into the coat but rather use the thinners to trim just the top bits of hair, making several passes with the thinners as you cut and watch the marks just blend away. This technique is not to take length off but just to take the uneven tips off, leaving a smooth finish free from the visible marks left by the clipper or scissor. This is especially useful when working with soft or difficult coats that seem to show every mark. The type of thinner you use matters as well. The rule of thumb is when the thinning shear teeth are smaller and closer together, you will get less

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A spray with a glossy finish looks especially beautiful on short– or smooth–coated breeds like Labrador Retrievers or Boxers and drop–coats with beautiful long hair like a Shih Tzu in full coat.

hair removal and a finer finish. Whereas when the teeth are wider with more spacing between them, you will have more bulk removal, resulting in too much coat being taken off. And this can actually have the opposite effect, leaving you with small lines in the coat from the thinning shear. I recommend having a variety of thinners and experiment on different coat types to see the results and learn which type of thinner works best with each coat type.

CHOOSING YOUR PRODUCTS The next step is choosing products that assist in achieving a perfectly– scissored, eye–catching finish.

SCISSOR OR FINISHING SPRAYS Scissor sprays are a very important part of achieving that picture–perfect finish we all strive

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for. These sprays can have varying claims to the resulting effects, from anti–static properties and adding moisture to even adding weight to the coat and taming thin fly– away hair. Some are light, almost like water, and evaporate quickly leaving no residue or weight to the coat but still tackle those static– stricken coats. Others have heavy conditioners added that restore moisture to damaged or frizzy coats, but too much can give an oily or even dirty look to the coat and not a fabulous finish. When I’m using a spray for scissoring on curly coats such as a Poodle or a Bichon, my preference is a light spray that adds moisture and tames static but doesn’t leave a buildup on the hair so the coat is smooth but bouncy and light. When I am grooming a drop–coat like a Shih Tzu, a Maltese or a Havanese, I prefer a spray that has a little bit more conditioner in it to help weigh down the coat a bit and give it nice movement and body. One of the factors that may affect the results of grooming sprays is the water in your area. Hard and soft water have different effects on coats, so my recommendation is to try small bottles of sprays that interest you and see what the results are in conjunction with the water and shampoos and conditioners you use in your grooming business. Some finishing sprays also add a bit of shine to the coat. I love the healthy and polished look of a well– groomed dog that has a coat that picks up the light and has a slight shine to it. A spray with a glossy finish looks especially beautiful on short– or smooth–coated breeds like Labrador Retrievers or Boxers and drop–coats with beautiful long hair like a Shih Tzu in full coat. A light



spritz of a spray with a shine in it and a pass of your comb can give your grooming that little something that just adds the perfect finish. I also love to use a flat iron on those fluffy or cottony drop–coats. Using a grooming spray applied to dry coat and passing a flat iron over the coat to pull it down and straighten the coat can give a dog with a dry, frizzy or damaged coat the appearance of a silky coat that flows as they move about. This is definitely a game– changer for your full–coated clients.

TEXTURING PRODUCTS There are also products that can help to add texture to the hair for grooming breeds with harsh coats such as terriers. Whenever I groom a terrier that has a soft coat with the result of trimming the hair rather

than hand–stripping the coat, I like to use a product that adds a little bit of texture. There are chalks and powders that can be brushed in to add texture and leave–in mousses or gels that, once dry, add an element of harshness that adds volume and texture. One of my favorite things to do when I groom West Highland Terriers is to give the appearance of a teased–out head which gives the full effect of the breed esthetic. I call it the “faux tease.” After I layer the head perfectly round, I use a small amount of grooming cholesterol on my hands and run it through the whole head. Then I add a little bit of grooming chalk and gently brush it into the cholesterol so it gives a light coating; just enough to add some texture, but not enough to be a powdery mess. I allow the dog to shake

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its head which fans the hair out in a ball shape and shakes out any excess chalk. I then then finish with a light coat of hairspray for dogs. What this does is gives an amazing finish with the appearance of a teased–out head, but in fact it’s just a little chalk and hairspray. The dog goes out looking like a show dog, but since the product is just lightly applied, in a few days of normal activity the hairspray breaks down without matting the hair, and the texture and volume stay in. The customers are always delighted to see their dog looking show–ring–ready.

ADD SOME GLAM! Aside from finishing products that tame, texturize and shine the coat, there are also some finishing products that are just plain fun! There are coat sprays and hairsprays that add a touch of sparkle to the coat for those over–the–top customers that just love glam. There are lines of makeup for people that add sparkle to the skin, so of course there’s also sparkle for those fabulous furry friends in our lives. Some of these sprays are just hairspray with glitter, while others claim to add moisture and conditioners to the coat along with the sparkle. This is another fun way to add a finishing touch to your grooms that help to put a big smile on your clients’ faces…and a happy client is a loyal client! In simple terms, trying new products and techniques can help bring your end game to the next level. Experiment with grooming sprays and the effects they have on various coats and see how you can improve your technical work and add that special something to your grooms. I think you’ll see an improvement in your work and a lot of happy customers! &



F

or instance, many groomers not only don’t understand how their shampoo and conditioner actually work, but do not know how to properly care for and dispense them day to day. In any grooming workplace, being accountable is a paramount quality. It mindfully works hand–in–hand with trust, reliability and responsibility. In the health care industry, serums, plasma, blood, vaccines, medicines and other essential liquids are managed with precision and specific protocols. So, where are the established codes of procedure within the grooming industry for safely caring for and dispensing pet shampoos and other grooming liquids? While the post–COVID world has certainly reinforced the importance of cleaning, disinfecting and sanitizing in our salons, the same cannot be said for caring for grooming liquids. Sadly, the reality of shampoo spoilage more often than not comes down to genuine ignorance and neglect by the user. I’d like to help remedy this by sharing some important facts, a few tips and some handy guidelines to follow. After all, you don’t know what you don’t know!

WATER FOSTERS BACTERIA GROWTH

With over three decades in the grooming industry, knowing what I know, some folks have deemed me as a pet shampoo guru of sorts. 48

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Leonardo da Vinci is quoted to have said, “Water is the driving force of all nature.” Unfortunately this includes harmful bacteria, too. It's important to realize bacteria are the number one enemy of shampoo and conditioner. Bathing areas are highly vulnerable breeding grounds for such contamination. For example, folliculitis is a common skin infection you may have come across characterized by small clusters of itchy bumps. These are typically caused by bacteria that amass in contaminated shampoo bottles due to unsanitary storage, dilution and dispensing practices. Pseudomonas is another bacterium that’s responsible for many canine skin and ear infections. These bacteria are


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easily transferred in water and damp environments like wash tubs. There’s an endless list of harmful bacteria that could amass in your on– hand inventory of grooming liquids. I’ll spare you from any further fear mongering other than to say how most claims of spoilage—and even client skin reactions from a product—correlate to some lack or failure in daily sanitation practices.

PRESERVATIVES ONLY DO SO MUCH Water volume can account for 30% to 98% of a shampoo or conditioner’s formula; the remaining ingredient volumes are referred to as “solids” or “percent of solids.” Did you know that conditioners have up to three to four times more water than a shampoo? Shampoo and conditioner solids include plant–based detergents, conditioners and fragrances as well as polymers, minerals and vitamins. It is important to acknowledge how plant– and animal– derived ingredients ultimately succumb to spoilage; even minerals and vitamins can oxidize and diminish in potency over time. The role of a preservative is to postpone spoilage from overtaking a mixture within a reasonably designated time period. This period is often referred to as a product’s “shelf life,” and is largely based on the product’s intended use and dispensing methods. A shampoo’s shelf life is not etched in granite given there are so many variables affecting them. They are nothing more than guidelines. Water alone will not spoil, but it will amass bacteria and other contaminants over time. These other contaminants include dander, hair, condensation, heat and oxidation. The presence of these contaminants rapidly exhausts the preservative far before ever reaching any anticipated shelf life. It should come as no surprise that greater storage and dispensing care is required for “premium blends” with more sophisticated formulas. These liquids have a higher percent of solids, boasting


more active proteins and botanicals, making them more susceptible to the spoilage variables previously mentioned.

scheduled work session. 5. Discard all unused diluted shampoo/conditioner within 24 hours.

STORAGE GUIDELINES

TIPS WHEN USING A BATHING SYSTEM

Fact: Grooming liquids containing proteins, botanicals, fragrance and essential oils are susceptible to heat, moisture and pollutants. 1. Wash and dry your hands before opening and closing shampoo bottles. 2. Always store grooming liquids in a climate–controlled room (preferably well below 80oF; the cooler the better) because prolonged exposure to heat rapidly exhausts any preservative within the mixture, leading to premature spoilage. 3. Freezing temperatures may also affect liquid performance. Upon receipt, examine your product packaging for damages or cracks due to freeze expansion. Compromised packaging typically leads to contamination, oxidation and rapid spoilage. 4. Secure the lids tightly at all times to prevent humidity and airborne debris from contaminating contents. 5. Keep unused/unopened product in its original container. Avoid combining contents in unsavory bulk containers.

WATER QUALITY AND DILUTION GUIDELINES Fact: Tap water will vary by region and can sometimes hinder bathing results. High alkaline pH levels can be challenging for some shampoos. Call your water utility provider for a free quality assessment report or consider testing it yourself. 1. Adding water to shampoo compromises the mixture’s overall preservative balance. 2. Water quality factors like pH, mineral content and bacteria levels influence product performance. 3. Dilution rates are merely guidelines. It’s not uncommon for most shampoo products to successfully stretch beyond what is recommended. 4. When diluting with water, only mix what is anticipated for each

Fact: Most pet shampoo products are safe and effective to use in any bathing system device. However, some conditioners may not work in every unit due to oxidation causing the mixture to congeal and harden which may build up and clog inner workings. 1. Be certain all shampoo system maintenance and cleaning protocols are followed in accordance with the manufacturer’s specific guidelines. 2. When using pre–mix application systems, only mix what is anticipated for each scheduled work session. 3. When using metered bathing systems which syphon liquid directly from the gallon jug, make certain all fittings are securely fastened and do not leak air or moisture inside. Gallon jugs with loose or compromised fittings are more susceptible to contamination. 4. Recirculating bathing pumps require ongoing sanitizing. Filters, nozzles and hoses must be rinsed and dried according manufacturer’s warranty guidelines. 5. Make sure there is no cleaning chemical residue left behind in your bathing system that could risk contaminating any shampoo mixture or irritating a pet’s skin.

TIPS FOR USING MIXING BOTTLES Fact: Misuse of mixing bottles is common among grooming salons and often leads to cross contamination. 1. Designate a separate dilution bottle for each specific liquid product used. 2. Do not reuse any empty bottles from another product. 3. Avoid using squeeze tops because they can suck dirty water back into the mixing bottle. 4. Use hot water and dish detergent for cleaning. The sanitize cycle on your dishwasher is most effective. GroomertoGroomer.com

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5. Do not reuse empty bottles that contained bleach, disinfectant, pesticides, essential oils, ammonia and/or peroxides for mixing shampoo. These tainted bottles will contaminate grooming liquids and should be disposed of.

TIPS FOR HAND PUMP DISPENSERS Fact: Open pumps breathe, allowing air and condensation back into the container leading to unwanted spoilage. 1. Make sure pumps are fully twisted shut or securely covered with a tied plastic bag when not in use. 2. Designate one specific gallon pump for each product used to avoid mingling with other products and cross contamination. 3. Write the product's brand name on each dispensing pump or mixing bottle to match its designated gallon jug. 4. The best way to clean reusable

dispensing pumps is to disassemble then run through a hot dishwasher cycle. 5. Do not clean plastic pumps with essential oils. Oils act as solvents, which soften plastic, making it porous and susceptible to harboring bacteria. 6. Be sure each pump is fully dry before placing them back into a gallon of product.

TIPS FOR MANAGING SHAMPOO INVENTORY Fact: Most shampoo manufacturers guarantee their products within 30 to 45 days from purchase. 1. Try writing both the item purchase date and the day it was opened directly on the container with a permanent marker to keep track. 2. Rotate your stock using oldest items first. 3. During extreme weather months it’s important to order from a supplier close in proximity. Shorter

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delivery times reduce the likelihood of damages and premature spoilage to your product. 4. It is best to place orders earlier in the week rather than later. This reduces any likelihood of your order sitting in a delivery truck over a long weekend of sweltering summer heat or subzero freezing temperatures. 5. Hold on to receipts for proof of purchase. You can often return or exchange defective product within warranty. 6. Avoid making large bulk purchases beyond a three month supply. Turning your inventory more frequently reduces the likelihood of any unexpected spoilage and damage.

FINAL THOUGHTS Fortunately, truth, wisdom and integrity still manage to prevail in pet grooming. What better way to strengthen our industry than by sharing knowledge and furthering one’s education? I am genuinely grateful to the many group forums, podcasts, digital publications and websites that exist specifically for groomers. However, I would argue the need for more companies to come forward and grace the streams of content with greater knowledge for everyone’s benefit. I see a missed opportunity for industry leaders. Please share this information with others in our industry! & Dave Campanella is an informative and entertaining seminar speaker, contributing trade columnist and genuine grooming enthusiast. He is Best Shot Pet Products sales and marketing director with 30 years of pet industry wisdom. He and his wife Tracy co–owned a full–service pet salon and self–wash in Ohio prior to relocating with Best Shot to Kentucky. Together they enjoy exhibiting at grooming shows, being industry ambassadors, and showing their Kerry Blue Terriers, Samoyed, and Lowland Polish Sheepdog.


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by Daryl Conner

THE

“Doodle

Craze” & ITS EFFECT ON THE GROOMING INDUSTRY

I

may spend a little too much time reading grooming posts on social media, but something I recently read got me thinking. The post that interested me was written by Anais Hayden (also known as “The Goddess of Color”). Anais is from Atlanta, Georgia, she has been grooming for 18 years and is well known in the grooming industry for her very colorful, creative grooms. Anais said, “I am making a lot of changes to my grooming career starting next year. I will no longer be grooming large dogs. I am going to increase my grooming prices and my non–refundable booking deposits. Also, I know that doodles are here to stay, so I’ve decided that with the mini doodles, I’ll only accept them as long as they stay on a monthly schedule. If the clients can’t afford in–between, monthly coat maintenance appointments, then they are to follow through at home. If they don’t abide by that,

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The problem with the coats of poodle mixes is that there is a genetic roll–of–the–dice happening with each breeding. they can no longer be my clients.” Since I’ve been grooming long enough to remember the days when we groomed every dog, no matter the condition (once a year, matted to the point walking was difficult, covered in parasites, and sometimes worse things), the concept of “they can no longer be my clients” is one I have a little trouble wrapping my graying head around. But I like it—a lot. Anias continued, “The purpose is for us as groomers to always strive to work smarter, not harder. Unfortunately, clients that demand fluffy coats but don’t want to put the work in don’t care if they work us to death for their vanity. So, we have to demand GroomertoGroomer.com

respect through our work. This may seem extreme, but through years of experience with poodle mixes and their families, I’ve found that they can be difficult to do business with. I don’t dislike doodles; most are very sweet and beautiful, but their coats are horrible, and their owners can be hard to work with.” The problem with the coats of poodle mixes is that there is a genetic roll–of–the–dice happening with each breeding. Poodle coats are dominated by the anagen, or growth phase, of hair and each individual hair may grow for years.1 The hair shafts are curly. The results can become a groomer’s nightmare when bred to a retriever or some


other breed with a heavily–shedding double coat. In many cases, the doodle coat is so thick that it is nearly impossible to get a clipper through it, even when properly prepped. Coats like this can be far more challenging to maintain than the coats of the purebred originators of the mix ever were. Add to this biological botheration the fact that a high percentage of doodle owners are determined that their pets boast a long, fluffy style yet cannot understand the intense level of work that goes into achieving the look they desire, and the result is a high frustration level for both groomers and doodle owners alike. One groomer wrote, “Unfortunately most of us know there is a ‘typical’ doodle owner. I blame doodle breeders for lack of education about their proper coat care and grooming needs. Time and time again the owner will deny that doodles need frequent grooming and don’t need to be brushed or combed. They insist on long and fluffy cuts even if the dog has extensive matting or even a pelted coat. Some are willing to learn but

most blame the groomer.” I asked groomers how doodle– type dogs have changed the way they work. The results can be grouped into three camps: 1. Out of over 100 responses, most groomers expressed frustration. “We cannot take any more. I groom four to six per day. They take hours just to bathe and dry. They take the slot of two or three small dog appointments. They are not cost–effective or smart for business owners to take, even in good condition, because their hair is so dense and hard to maintain.” Another groomer said, “I have multiple calls a day for new doodle customers, and 85% of my current customers are already doodles. There are too many to accommodate.” Finally, one quipped, “I drink more after work since the doodle craze.” 2. Many groomers simply refuse to groom any of the poodle mix breeds. “I stopped accepting new doodle clients of any kind this past winter. I make more money grooming small

In many cases, the doodle coat is so thick that it is nearly impossible to get a clipper through it, even when properly prepped. Coats like this can be far more challenging to maintain than the coats of the purebred originators of the mix ever were.

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dogs, and it’s easier on my body,” one groomer said. In addition, several groomers stated that they had instituted a weight limit (usually 40–50 pounds and under) to eliminate all of the larger poodle mix varieties. More than one echoed, “I’m at my breaking point and will no longer groom any of them.”

3. The last group—though small— was dedicated. “We have embraced the doodles; they are awesome dogs! We have a structured way to accept new doodle clients—we educate them first. Three things must ‘marry’ together: budget, how much work the owner is willing to do between grooms, and the desired coat length. The answer to those three

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questions determines the interval between grooming and the price. Our ideal model client is on a four–week grooming schedule with the occasional bath in between. Consistency is the key. Clients who don’t adhere to the plan and aren’t willing to schedule at least six months out are carefully weeded out. This is how we can maintain approximately 150–200 doodles each month without stressing our resources too much. They have changed the way we do business because they are at least 25–30 percent of our business. We have some awesome doodle people because they are clients we cultivate no matter what kind of dog they own. Stick to your ideal business model and the rest will fall into place.” One man said, “I have upgraded products and tools, as well as learned techniques that allow me to demat safely. However, I have also had to make updates to pet sizing, make detailed descriptions for services and service prices, and add new services.” While researching this article, I learned that some social media groups of doodle owners publically bash pet groomers after being unhappy with their services. I can’t think of another time when a group of pet owners did this, and it is a graphic illustration of the chasm between some doodle fanciers and the grooming industry. Since most responses from groomers I questioned included phasing out or refusing to groom doodle mixes, I wonder where this leaves those who own them. The popularity of poodle mixes has impacted our industry in ways none of us have previously experienced with any other pure– or mixed–breed dog. & References: 1. Why Does My Pet Shed?, https://www. aaha.org/your–pet/pet–owner–education/ask–aaha/pets–and–shedding/



KITTY'S KORNER

by Deborah Hansen

RUB-A-DUB-DUB,

Kitty in the Tub! Before we can discuss the suds and bubbles of shampoo, we must first combat the myth of cats hating water. Many people do not believe getting a cat wet is a good idea.

T

he reality is that many cats love their baths and are eager participants in their regular grooming schedules. There are many reasons why cats need baths. Some cats—especially the older kitties—are prone to a buildup of the natural oils the skin produces. These oils give the coat a greasy feeling. The problem comes when the grease buildup prevents the dead coat from sliding off the cat. When that happens, matting begins. Even cats that are brushed weekly will arrive at the point where the grease buildup will become too much and the human caretaker

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cannot remove the dead coat with a comb or brush. The primary reason a cat “needs” a bath is to keep the buildup of the naturally–occurring oils from causing painful matting and pelting. Once a client has experienced a clean cat, they will want their cats to have a bath for multiple reasons. Bathing and drying a cat every four to six weeks greatly reduces the amount of loose coat dropping off the cat and accumulating in the client’s home. And, a freshly–groomed cat smells fabulous. Cat litter, debris in the environment and a cat’s natural bodily

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functions can leave kitty a little stinky. A bath freshens up the cat by removing the dust and debris left on the coat from the litter box. Bathing also rids the feline of any debris they may have on their coat from lying or rolling in their living environment. Some cats like to lie in the dirty laundry, open windows or in sports equipment and pick up the distinctive aroma of their beloved human. A bath does wonders to help keep kitty smelling fresh. Water baths not only improve the feline’s quality of life by preventing pelting and matting, but also improve the human family’s life by controlling


Safety is the most important reason that I prefer a bar shampoo. When bathing a cat with a bar shampoo, the bar is always between the cat’s teeth and my hand. shedding and keeping kitty fresh. A water bath is a win for everyone. Now, we are ready for the suds and bubbles! In my opinion, there is nothing better than a kitty all “suds’d–up” in a tub. There are many shampoos on the market all advertising something a little different and many marketing specifically for cats. Choosing the best product

for you and your business can be a confusing and expensive maze of trial and error. My preferred and go–to shampoo for cats is the bar shampoo with an occasional use of a stronger degreaser. Safety is the most important reason that I prefer a bar shampoo. When bathing a cat with a bar shampoo, the bar is always between the

GroomertoGroomer.com

cat’s teeth and my hand. It adds an additional barrier for those grumpy cats that prefer not to have a bath. When a cat decides to bite, the bar of shampoo will be closer than my hand for the days I am not fast enough to move out of the way. As a house call–groomer, I encounter all water types in one day. Everything from well water to city

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water to hard, untreated water to homes that over soften their water. I find the bar shampoo is able to give a high–quality finish in all water types for all coat types. A bar shampoo easily travels in a soap container in my wet bag. Additionally, I can store many bars in my vehicle without concern of leakage or heat popping open the caps. In my opinion, there is not a better shampoo for feline house–call groomers. In order for the bar shampoo to work properly, the feline’s coat needs to be saturated and the shampoo needs to be worked into the coat with a little water added before the final lather can be worked up. The great news is that many shampoo manufacturers have videos to show you how to best and effectively use

their product. It is always a good idea to visit the manufacturer’s website before you use any product. Keeping your cat clients on a tight, regular schedule not only makes your job easier, but also prevents grease buildup and the matting and pelting that follow. When you get a new client, or a client has gone too long between grooms, you may need to add a shampoo that is specifically designed to remove grease. When I have these kitties, my first lather is the bar shampoo with the degreaser added, followed by a second lather of the bar shampoo. Adding the second product to my greasiest cats is all that is needed to achieve a stunning finish for these feline coats. You may be wondering about

WashUnit_GroomTable_half_12_17_F4P.pdf

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1

12/19/17

9:35 AM

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conditioner. In my experience, conditioner weighs down the coat. Some of the conditioners I have tried have actually made the coat clumpy and started the matting process sooner. Remember that any residue left on the hair shaft will act as a binding agent and will accelerate the matting process. In my almost ten years of feline–exclusive grooming, I have not found a conditioner that has benefited and maintained or extended the amount of acceptable time between water baths. As feline groomers, we will always have to battle the myth that cats hate water. But the reality is that many cats actually enjoy their bubble baths. And, it is up to you to decide which products work best for your business! &


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ELEVATE YOUR GROOMING AFTER

by Blake Hernandez

Gorgeous Galaxy

Yorkie

BEFORE

T

FIG. 1

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his groom is a quick and extravagant creative design for the masses, and is a simple style for any drop–coat for sure. Enjoy turning the heads of your creative–loving clients with this gorgeous galaxy style which can easily be achieved with just 20 minutes of dye work and 25 minutes more of processing—or skip the color for a quick, easy pet trim!

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Fig 1) I like to start with the shortest blade in my grooms, and in the case of this groom, it would be used to tip the ears. Make sure to clip the tips without trimming the long hairs right by them. Then use small scissors to create sharp lines around the outsides of the ears. Fig 2) I will then take a #6F blade in reverse on the throat latch to help



FIG. 2 separate the head from the neck as well as to lengthen the neck. Fig 3) Then using the #6F with the grain, I will take the clipper down

FIG. 3 the body, underline, topline, and then over the hips and pin bone. Fig 4) I am using my blade to begin to create a point above the

FIG. 4 shoulder. This will help exaggerate the bevel on the foot, especially with this dog having such thin leg hair. Fig 5) With that same blade, I

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FIG. 5

FIG. 6

FIG. 7

FIG. 8

FIG. 9

FIG. 10

FIG. 11

FIG. 12

will go in reverse over the cheeks from the corner of the eye to the corner of the ear. Fig 6) Then using a guard comb for a 5–in–1 blade, I do a ½ inch in reverse on the top skull. Fig 7) With my thinning shears I clear the area in front of the eyes. Fig 8) I then trim around the foot with a pair of curved scissors to build my bevel and support the leg coat. Fig 9) To start the coloring process, I use a dog–safe black dye to shape the point over the shoulder and line over the hip. Then I just blackout the whole trunk, tail, back of the neck and top of the head. Fig 10) Next, have fun and use whatever color palette you’d like to make an outer space vibe on the legs and ears. Fig 11) To finish the design, I used a water–soluble glue to attach sticky jewels all over the dark space and to highlight the expression. Fig 12) To complete this groom, trim the muzzle tight and round. This groom is out of this world! &

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GROOMER HUMOR not let Bella stress Me: I will me not out let Bella stress me out

Wisdom & Grace

Also me:

Also me:

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