September 2018 Global Traveler by Global Traveler

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September 2018

GREEK ISLES p. 76 ISLE OF SKYE p. 70 LONDON p. 69 MEDELLÍN p. 68 SANTA FE p. 64 SHANGHAI p. 66 TAHITIAN ISLANDS p. 74

Wherever Awards 2018

WHEREVERFAMILY SPECIAL SECTION p. 46

PERFECT HARMONY Kyoto looks both forward and backward with ease. p. 58

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letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

SPECIAL TRAVELS DO YOU TRAVEL TO CELEBRATE SPECIAL OCCASIONS? As summer ends and fall approaches, this question comes to mind because September is my birth month. Last year I traveled for my birthday, celebrating in Lviv, Ukraine. As you can see from this month’s photo, I was still able to blow out candles and make a wish, even on a different continent. This year, however, BIRTHDAY ABROAD: Kimberly Krol celebrating her birthday in Lviv, Ukraine I’ll enjoy the day a little closer PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL to home, opting instead to save my special-occasion travel for the holidays. I’ll embark on a river cruise with U by Uniworld on Dec. 27 and “dash through the Danube” to Christmas markets in Germany, Austria, Slovakia and Hungary, ringing in 2019 along the way. What do you have planned to commemorate any special moments left in 2018 or those coming up in 2019? And speaking of cruising, guests and winners set sail with GT at our Leisure Lifestyle Awards event in May; see the highlights from the nautical night in this issue, beginning on page 32. Another special section of this issue starts on page 46. Learn more about whereverfamily.com, one of our sister web publications and the trusted travel source for the modern family. This month marks the one-year anniversary of the web publication, and we are excited to share with you some content from the site as well as announce the winners of the first-ever Wherever Awards. I’d be remiss not to mention our other sister publication, trazeetravel.com, also celebrates an anniversary this month (just like me, ha!), and we’re celebrating with a modern new look for the website, debuting soon. Perhaps it isn’t a celebration that spurs our travel but rather an event. Such was the case for me last summer when I planned a trip to London to see Adele perform at Wembley Stadium. Alas, the songstress ended up canceling the show — news I found out upon switching my phone back on when I landed — but as you’ll see on page 69, I made use of my time in London to discover a new neighborhood. We don’t visit just London in this issue but also Bangalore, Kyoto, Santa Fe, Shanghai, Medellín, Scotland, the Tahitian Islands, Greece and Key West. It’s a jam-packed issue — enjoy! Next month, join us for an in-depth look at Jumeirah International and Turkish Airlines.

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ERICH J. MARTIN erich.martin@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Content Producer DEBRA BOKUR debra.bokur@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Editor at Large HOLLY RIDDLE holly.riddle@globaltravelerusa.com

ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

COLUMNISTS

WRITERS

KRISTY ALPERT MARGARET BACKENHEIMER J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT EUNICE FRIED MARY B. GALLAGHER JACK GUY ALLIE MOORE

SUSAN BARNES MARLA CIMINI STEVE JERMANOK ILONA KAUREMSZKY SHARON KING HOGE EUGENIA LAZARIS RICHARD NEWTON

ete bios, For compl usa.com altraveler ob gl t si vi CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE

the Known as alley of Silicon V galore India, Ban timated es an s ha of more population illion in m 11 an th area. the metro e about or m d ea R on Bangalore page 44.

ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN, Director of Technology BOB HANCOCK, Director of Digital Advancement JARED TORGAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN

KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF

CONNECT WITH GT Follow GT on Twitter @GTmag

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GENERAL INQUIRIES/ISSUE REQUESTS/REPRINTS tel 267 364 5811 SUBSCRIPTIONS tel 818 286 3134 | gbtcs@magserv.com PUBLIC RELATIONS Kimberly Krol tel 267 364 5811 ext 202 | kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com LETTERS TO THE EDITOR letters@globaltravelerusa.com Global Traveler is published monthly by FXExpress Publications, Inc., 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067. The U.S. subscription rate is $42 for one year, $79.95 for two years, $121.95 for three years. POSTMASTER: Please send changes of address to Global Traveler, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067

SEPTEMBER 2018

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letter from the publisher ® ®

BUSINESS AND PLEASURE AS I WROTE THIS LETTER, I WAS PREPARING for a ping-pong trip from Philadelphia to Seattle to San Diego to Sarasota and back, with lots of connections required. This combination business-and-leisure trip included a round of golf for this month’s review of the Fairmont Grand Del Mar resort outside San Diego. This Tom Fazio course is a favorite of mine and GT readers since it opened 10 years ago. I trash talked my opponents regarding their games in several emails. They reminded me every stroke counts. See how it all turned out on page 28. I am thrilled to announce the Airline of the Year and the Hotel of the Year nominations for 2018. Last year the winners were American Airlines and Lotte Hotels & Resorts. Nominations have been gathered from the team here at Global Traveler and our subscriber Globility Board. Final voting will take place at the annual Advisory Board meeting, scheduled for Sept. 27. The nominations are FRIENDLY FACE:

Francis X. Gallagher with April, ‘‘the most pleasant Delta flight attendant‘‘ PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

AIRLINES Aeromexico Alaska Airlines All Nippon Airways Cathay Pacific Delta Air Lines JetBlue LATAM Singapore Airlines Southwest Airlines TAP Air Portugal Virgin Atlantic

HOTELS Belmond Fiesta Americana Fairmont Hotels & Resorts Four Seasons Hilton Hotels InterContinental Hotels Park Hyatt The Peninsula Hotels Kimpton Langham Hotels & Resorts Meliá Hotels Oberoi Hotels and Resorts One&Only Rosewood Hotels Taj Hotels

The coveted trophies are the pinnacle of the GT Tested Awards ceremony scheduled Dec. 12 at The Peninsula Beverly Hills. Weather permitting, the presentation and reception will take place at the rooftop pool area. Please join us in celebration. Lastly, I am fine-tuning plans for the FX Excursions Antalya golf and touring trip for spring 2019. It will be an exciting and historical tour — with a little golf — in Turkey! Until next month, enjoy your travels — and please, no staycation!

ADVERTISING Publisher/CEO FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER tel 267 364 5811 ext 200 | fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Vice President RICHARD T. EVANS tel 267 364 5811 ext 203 | dick.evans@globaltravelerusa.com Executive Vice President, Associate Publisher CARLY ALLEN tel 267 495 6287 | carly.allen@globaltravelerusa.com Advertising Manager ASHLEY RICHARDS tel 267 364 5811 ext 205 | ashley.richards@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive STEPHANIE MAKOWSKI tel 267 364 5811 ext. 211 | stephanie.makowski@globaltravelerusa.com Advertising Coordinator ANDREW RISCH tel 267 364 5811 ext 201 | andrew.risch@globaltravelerusa.com Sales Planner YASSER OGANDO tel 267 884 1650 | yasser.ogando@globaltravelerusa.com

REPRESENTATIVES Egypt CARMEN DOYLE and HASSAN SHEHAB tel 61 0 403866188 carmen.doyle@afrozinternational.com hassan.shehab@afrozinternational.com France, The Netherlands JEREMY PRADERIO-REGIE tel 09 54 20 09 50 | cell 06 07 96 54 15 j.praderio@regiepem.com Germany MICHAELA JUSTI tel 49 69 56 02 01 21 | fax 49 69 56 02 01 23 | cell 49 171 20 29 502 justi@mediasalescompany.de Hong Kong, Thailand, Singapore, Australia JEREMY ORRITT tel 852 23752311 | fax 852 30208642 | cell 852 91886157 jeremy@omjmedia.com India VIMAL ANAND tel 91 124 493 2020 | cell 91 98100 71000 vimal@gmnindia.com Japan YOSHIZUMI MIYAKE, MEDIAHOUSE INC. tel 3 3222 7811 | fax 3 3234 1140 miyake@mediahs.com HIDETADA KOCHI tel 81 3 3222 7811 | cell 81 3 90 8774 9800 fax 81 3 3234 1140 kochi@mediahs.com Mexico CARLOS ALBERTO FRIAS tel 52 55 5254-4490 afrias@fgasociados.mx South Korea JEFF HWANG tel 82 31 702 7782 | cell 82 10 3498 9117 gng@gngcom.co.kr Spain LUIS ANDRADE tel 34 91 788 2001 | fax 34 91 395 6396 landrade@luisandrade.com

FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER, PUBLISHER AND CEO

CONNECT WITH GT Check out GT’s Pinterest boards at pinterest.com/globaltraveler Follow GT on Instagram @globaltravelermag

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Taiwan CHLOE KUO tel: 886 2 27993110 ext. 221 | fax 886 2 27995560 chloe.kuo@hintoninfo.com Turkey SABA SAROL CORZO tel 90 532 311 6704 or 1 310 562 2580 saba@catalyzismedia.com

CORPORATE OFFICE 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 tel 267 364 5811 | fax 267 364 5796

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

All in THE PLAZA SEOUL The luxury hotel offers the perfect base for discovering Seoul’s past, present and future. THE PLAZA SEOUL IS KOREA’S first hotel to partner with Marriott International’s luxury lifestyle brand, Autograph Collection. The result is a luxury hotel in the heart of Seoul with the benefits of being associated with an international chain, as well as maintaining a local identity. THE PLAZA SEOUL, DESIGNED by Italian architect Guido Ciompi, offers captivating views across Seoul. All the hotel’s guestrooms feature smartphone service offering complimentary local and international calls, Internet access, speed dial to Hotel Services and access to THE PLAZA SHOP, a platform offering professionally curated items to be ordered and delivered to each guestroom. INDEPENDENT BUSINESS AND LEISURE travelers are eager to discover the local culture, shopping, accommodations and amenities of the destination they’re visiting, and leading Korean luxury boutique hotel THE PLAZA Seoul, Autograph Collection launches the Delight Seoul offer, aimed at providing travelers unique experiences in a destination rich in culture and history. THE OFFER INCLUDES a Discover Seoul Pass, which offers guests access to 21 top attractions in and around Seoul, accommodations at THE PLAZA Seoul, breakfast at the hotel’s The Seven Square, multilingual brochures and services from THE PLAZA Concierge Team. The special is available for two or more nights. “FOREIGN VISITORS HAVE recently been showing strong interest in Seoul and its culture,” according to a hotel official. “We therefore looked for a special and unique service that could offer diverse experiences of both the hotel and the Korean capital outside. We are committed to providing more experiences beyond expectation for tourists visiting Seoul with various services exclusive to THE PLAZA Seoul, Korea’s leading five-star hotel.” THE PLAZA SEOUL OFFERS 410 rooms for guests to recharge and rejuvenate in style, six unique restaurants for fine dining from around the globe, nine halls for business and other occasions and several other facilities, including a fitness center and spa. Personalized service now extends well past room service, thanks to the “Stay in Style” brand identity. Any service managed by the concierge team can be personalized for the perfect stay. NO MATTER YOUR PURPOSE in visiting the capital of South Korea, THE PLAZA Seoul will design the perfect stay for you.

For reservations and inquiries, call THE PLAZA Seoul at 82 2 310 7100 or visit the website at hoteltheplaza.com. Instagram: www.instagram.com/theplazaseoul

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September 2018 64

PHOTOS: © NICOLAS BATES, © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME.COM, © SANDY MARAK | DREAMSTIME.COM

FEATURES

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

32 Leisure Lifestyle Awards 2018 Global Traveler honors the best in leisure travel with a top-notch celebration.

58 Destination One: Kyoto Kyoto looks both forward and backward with ease.

40 Height of Hospitality Lotte Hotels & Resorts lures guests with the ultimate in comfort and luxury. 44 Bangalore Buzz India’s high-tech hot spot bustles with meetings and events.

52 6

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SEPTEMBER 2018

ON THE COVER globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

September 2018

GREEK ISLES p. 76 ISLE OF SKYE p. 70 LONDON p. 69 MEDELLÍN p. 68 SANTA FE p. 64 SHANGHAI p. 66 TAHITIAN ISLANDS p. 74

64 Stateside: Santa Fe Santa Fe meets the demands of modern times amid its rich cultural heritage.

Wherever Awards 2018

WHEREVERFAMILY SPECIAL SECTION p. 46

66 9–5: Shanghai Entertain clients in style in versatile, sophisticated Shanghai. 68 After 5: Medellín Medellín knows how to throw a party.

PERFECT HARMONY Kyoto looks both forward and backward with ease. p. 58

COVER PHOTO: KYOTO BAMBOO FOREST PHOTO: © TAWATCHAI PRAKOBKIT | DREAMSTIME.COM

EXPAND YOUR PALATE BEFORE YOU EXPAND YOUR MARKET. y TAP Executive Class and enjoy theTaste the Stars menu by our Michelin Star Chefs and our award winning wines. On the way to your next meeting spend u no additional airfare with a Portugal Stopover. Boo now at

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Best Sparking Wine International Business Class

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Bronze

Gold

2017

LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

22 23 24 25 26 28 30 31 79 81

10 13 16 19

69 Neighborhoods: London Explore the East End culture of London’s Shoreditch district.

Technology Wine & Spirits Wealth Tours Spas Golf Chefs Cruising LGBTQ+ Health

globaltravelerusa.com

Mail Call News Reviews One on One Chase Bank Credit Cards 20 One on One The Pierre, a Taj Hotel 80 Airport Update 82 Past & Present

SEPTEMBER 2018

70 Friends & Family: Isle of Skye Explore Scotland’s magical, misty Isle of Skye. 74 Bucket List: Tahitian Islands Encounter remarkable marine life in Bora Bora and beyond. 76 Kicking Back: Greek Isles Embrace island time on Santoríni, Crete and Rhodes.

FX E X P R E S S

P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2018 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

PHOTOS: © JW MARRIOTT MARCO ISLAND BEACH RESORT, © DEBU55Y | DREAMSTIME.COM, © BOWERS & WILKINS, © SEADAM | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MONROE COUNTY TOURIST DEVELOPMENT COUNCIL

contents

be rewarded. be one. As a ONEworld® traveler, wherever you go, your rewards follow. ONEworld extends many of the exclusive benefits of your preferred ONEworld airline’s frequent flyer program. Emerald, Sapphire and Ruby oneworld tiers each offer specific benefits which align automatically with your preferred ONEworld member airline benefits. Make a smart choice in traveling with any of our 13 airlines and take advantage of benefits you already have. Learn more at oneworld.com

an alliance of the world's leading airlines working as one. American Airlines British Airways Cathay Pacific Finnair Iberia Japan Airlines LATAM Malaysia Airlines Qantas Qatar Airways Royal Jordanian S7 Airlines SriLankan Airlines

ONEworld benefits are available only to passengers on scheduled flights that are both marketed and operated by a ONEworld member airline (marketed means that there must be a ONEworld member airline’s flight number on your ticket). For information on ONEworld, visit www.oneworld.com. American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, LATAM Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Jordanian, S7 Airlines, SriLankan Airlines and ONEworld are trademarks of their respective companies. LATAM Airlines (Paraguay) is currently not a part of ONEworld.

mail call JULY Q&A WITH KAITLIND EYDELLOTH, ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

Q&A WITH ANDREW RISCH, ADVERTISING COORDINATOR

September is here! The Global Traveler team is hard at work to bring you some amazing fall content. Moving forward into the final stretch of 2018, an important side note: We extended our GT Tested Reader Survey voting into September this year. If you have not already done so, make sure to cast your votes for your favorites in each category. Fall is the perfect time to curl up by the fire with your copy of Global Traveler.

In our July 2018 issue, Kaitlind Eydelloth discussed summer vacation memories, inspiring the question: When you think back on your childhood and your favorite trips, what destinations were most memorable to you? Big family beach vacations were always the best childhood vacations. We would rent a big house for a week or two and the whole family would come down and spend a few days. It was like a rotating party house with the whole family every summer.

Speaking of fall, what are some of your favorite autumn memories? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

seaweed assists in the breeding of shrimp and fish but doesn’t mention the sea lice. When will this mess subside!? MARILYN BIANCO, Fort Lauderdale,

CHRISTINA WILLIAMSON, via email

Florida

SEAWEED SEES RED

SOUTHWEST PEANUTS

In our Aug. 1 eFlyer USA newsletter, we discussed the slimy seaweed hitting Florida and invading some of the state’s most popular and touristed beaches. A few readers wrote in with a firsthand account. We left Naples due to red tide and algae causing a lot of dead fish and turtles and respiratory problems for humans. Check out the Naples Daily News articles beginning July 31 and continuing into August. Sure wish it was the good seaweed. DIANE HERRMANN, via email The coastal seaweed is ruining my summer swimming. The lifeguard towers fly purple flags due to sea lice. Your article states the

In our Aug. 8 eFlyer USA newsletter, we discussed Southwest Airlines moving away from peanuts, as the snack has been officially removed from the airline menu for the first time in the history of the airline. This inspired a few readers to write in with a comment. I am sad to see Southwest lose its iconic identity standard. Yet one more demonstration of the entire nation bowing to the perceived needs of a minuscule part of the population. As stated, less than 1 percent of the population is truly “allergic” to peanuts. Most who claim this allergy have never actually been tested for this condition. My grandson is highly allergic to peanuts. He has been tested, and it is his No. 1 allergy. While his

allergy is strong, he has to actually eat the peanuts to have a reaction, as is the case with most people. His parents carry an EpiPen in case he does actually bite into a peanut butter sandwich or consume peanuts. He is also extremely allergic to dog and cat hair and has a significant reaction when he comes in contact with it. Does that mean airlines will not allow emotional support animals to board if he is on the plane? How do they choose which passenger gets to stay on board in this situation? The bottom line is all these accommodations for the smallest portion of our population [are] out of control, and the solution is really easy. Can’t be in the same place as a peanut? Don’t go to that place. Can’t fly without your emotional support animal? Don’t fly. It’s time to stop making the entire nation pay for the perceived or real issues of a small portion of our inhabitants. VICKI SHARP, via email

Yes, I am sad about Southwest no longer serving peanuts on flights. CHERISE MOORE, Santa Clarita, California

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR AND PUBLISHER In our May 2018 issue, publisher and CEO Francis X. Gallagher wrote about using the Marriott App for check-in and his room key during an event at the Philadelphia Marriott Downtown. The app seemed “cumbersome” and inefficient, inspiring a couple of readers to write in. I read Global Traveler magazine every now and then when I am traveling and see the magazine at an airline lounge. I finally read the May 2018 issue and, sorry to say, I wasn’t pleased with the tone of the publisher’s letter. To begin, I would like to address the issue you highlighted, and I agree with the other readers — the Hilton Digital Key goes a long way in ensuring a smooth, human-less interaction during the entire stay,

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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SEPTEMBER 2018

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Globility

THE SOURCE FOR LUxURY BUSINE

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including accessing the elevators, lounges and other public areas at a hotel. For a gregarious soul like myself, however, I would rather go up to the front desk, especially to secure an upgrade, as the digital key wouldn’t guarantee that. But in cases of long lines, it does come in handy. While SPG’s is a close equivalent, I agree Marriott’s will take some work to become as seamless (I’m not sure if they now use the same technology as SPG; I used SPG’s before the merger). What disappointed me was the tone of the letter. It sounded more like a hotel review rather than a CEO’s letter. If you wanted to bring up this issue, maybe you could have mentioned it briefly and then directed readers to a hotel review page for more details. I am no Marriott fan, have been a Hilton loyalist for a long time, but the entire letter was about the malfunctioning of the digital key — I am not sure it was befitting a CEO’s letter. I hope you will take the feedback constructively. NAMEESH ARORA, via email I finally just got around to reading your always fascinating Letter from the Publisher (and entire issue) from May and wanted to both compliment you on your diplomacy in writing about your experience with Marriott’s app and keyless entry as well as add a few thoughts of my own. My status with Marriott is Lifetime Platinum, which probably indicates I’m not a millennial, either! But like you, I embrace technology when it is done correctly. Unfortunately, I’m not seeing much of that with Marriott, for whom I have the highest regard, both with its app and even its website of late. As an example, a few days ago I wanted to check my Rewards (I go back to when it was called Honored Guest and soon will learn a third program name) account for a free night certificate deposited as part of the Chaseissued credit card, not to make reservations but to look at the expiration date and place it on my calendar. Simple, right? No, not anymore. I’m pretty good around websites and the internet and have taught others while being responsible for the upkeep and use of several people’s devices. Clearly, I’m not IT, but a site like Marriott.com shouldn’t be designed only for people with degrees from MIT. It took ages, clicking everywhere and often

globaltravelerusa.com

SEPTEMBER 2018

needing to re-enter my username and password, before I finally found what I was seeking. Along the same lines, the remodeled rooms themselves are disappointing. No drawers at all. I realize millennials might travel with less baggage, but profiling aside, where are guests supposed to empty their suitcases? Are we to leave them on the floor, since there aren’t luggage racks unless you request one? The small closet door serves also as the bathroom door. Clever, but it means if you are traveling with someone, when you close the bathroom door the closet is open. Worse, if that other person is in the closet, opening the door could easily result in a jammed finger or hand. This is a major lawsuit in the making. I’ve heard through several managers in various properties that others are complaining, which, along with your documented points about the app and keyless entry, leads me to wonder what is going on. Has Marriott bitten off too much with the Starwood merger? Is it trying to be too hip and not your father’s Marriott? Thanks for reading and again, great publication. I read every page, every article, every word and always come away far better for it. JIM SEIFERT, via email

DELTA, DELTA, DELTA In our June 25 This Month in Aviation with Harriet Baskas newsletter, Baskas discussed airlines, new routes and airports, with two individual articles both mentioning Delta Air Lines: One depicts new routes and the rise in North American airline satisfaction among passengers, and the other details Delta’s animal policy. A couple of readers wrote in with a comment. Delta’s still missing the boat by not buying the Boeing 777-300ELR or the Boeing 787-9. Unfortunately, it has chosen Airbus aircraft for its long-haul fleet. I advise people to avoid Delta on the routes where they fly the Airbus equipment overseas. MICHAEL GREEN, via email We don’t have pit bulls, but we do travel with our emotional service animal toy poodles. Delta needs to get a grip and use some common sense. We don’t have anything against pit bulls. It is all in how they are brought up, just like most dogs. T. COUCH, via email

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

HANGZHOU

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE kicking back | COOK

ISLANDS

fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods. As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20. And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites. Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish. Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine. IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth. Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind andoffering soul ain is clean, crisp and refreshing, famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands. BY mouth. BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones. PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit. 72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Art of Healing

INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE A

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

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Apple Leisure Partners with NH Hotels

FLYING PRIVATE GETS MORE ACCESSIBLE By the beginning of 2019, flights aboard private jets may cost as low as $280, thanks to a new service from AURA. Travelers who consider flying private out of their budget will soon have the opportunity to book affordable seats with AURA to airports around the country. Flights will be conducted by Bombardier CRJ700 jets with 29 seats and two passenger classes: FIRST and WAVE. Passengers in the FIRST class will sit in the main cabin, while only eight passengers will sit in the WAVE cabin, where seats can fully recline. Other perks when flying with AURA include free in-flight WiFi, an iPad Pro in each seat and a tapas menu from which passengers can order meals 24 hours in advance of departure. When the service debuts, AURA’s flights will travel between Atlanta, Chicago, Denver, Los Angeles, Miami and New York. Flights will depart from private hangars at major international airports and private airports. Passengers can sign up for AURA’s membership program for only $100 per month to be privy to savings on all flights. flyaura.com

PHOTOS: © AURA, © NH HOTEL GROUP, © JETBLUE

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Pennsylvania-based Apple Leisure Group has formed partnerships with various companies in an effort to expand its global reach, most recently with Spain’s NH Hotel Group. The Madrid-based company signed on to collaborate with Apple Leisure Group to manage beachside properties along the Spanish coastlines, both Mediterranean and Atlantic. This move takes Apple Leisure Group a step further into the European vacation space, particularly for its all-inclusive brands Secrets Resorts & Spas and Dream Resorts & Spas (collectively known as AMResorts). Apple Leisure Group will manage the properties and sales, while NH will focus on more day-to-day operations at the properties. The joint management will begin with accommodations in Fuerteventura, Lanzarote and Mallorca, all opening in 2019. applelg.com nh-hotels.com

Changes Coming to JetBlue Seats

While other airlines are nickel-and-diming passengers with add-on services, a few improve their existing services to make the price changes worth the extra fees. JetBlue, however, is redesigning its economy-class seats to make passengers more comfortable. On board its Airbus A320 planes, JetBlue will install 12 additional seats and reconfigure seats to provide more legroom in select rows. With a maximum measurement of 33 inches, JetBlue advertises these seats as having the most legroom of any domestic carrier. To opt in for such seats, passengers will need to pay an extra fee for the “even more space” seats when booking their flight. Other changes include upgrades to entertainment and connectivity, with the addition of 10-inch, high-definition touchscreens to replace the current 6.5-inch screens; streaming movies and programs powered by Google Android; and power outlets in each seat, all in addition to its currently existing WiFi capabilities. After 16 years of the same design, JetBlue’s makeover comes at a time when passengers are searching for the worthiest reasons to pay a bit extra. jetblue.com

SEPTEMBER 2018

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news Japan Tests Self-Driving Cars

As the 2020 Summer Olympics approaches, Japan anticipates bringing together the best of the world’s athletes, entertainers and fans. To stand out among past host cities, Tokyo plans to introduce a network of self-driving cars, making Japan the first nation to publicly launch this technology. In early June, SoftBank Group announced its investment of $2.25 billion toward the project, allocated to acquire several “Cruise” vehicles, the world’s first selfdriving car manufactured and tested by General Motors in the United States. Still in the planning stages, a decision has not been made regarding where passengers will be able to use the cars (whether on a private, closed course or on public roads). Beyond Japan’s goal for the 2020 Olympics, the nation hopes to integrate a fully functioning, publicly available, self-driving car network by the year 2022.

Delta Increases Size of Economy Seats

In the wake of countless airlines shrinking seats in order to fit more passengers on planes, Delta Air Lines takes a different approach by expanding the width of seats. Instead of outfitting its newly renovated, wide-body Boeing 777 planes with 10 seats across, which is standard for this type of aircraft, Delta is installing only nine seats in each row, thus expanding each seat width to 18.5 inches. Other top U.S. carriers offer seats of 16 inches in width, or passengers can pay extra to sit in wider premium-economy seats. Once the seat installation is complete, these will be Delta’s widest economy seats available on an international flight.

New Routes from Southwest Airlines

To serve its more popular destinations for traveling professionals, Southwest Airlines expanded its route offerings to and from New York and Washington, D.C. Between now and Jan. 6, 2019, Southwest will add one flight to its already existing service between Washington Reagan National Airport and Dallas Love Field Airport (from three weekly flights to four weekly flights) and Nashville International (from four weekly to five weekly). Beginning Nov. 4, Southwest will introduce its first route from Washington Reagan National to Oklahoma City (OKC). New routes from New York LaGuardia Airport include New Orleans International (starting Nov. 4), Orlando International (starting Nov. 10) and Palm Beach International (starting Nov. 10) airports. southwest.com

The Nation’s First Business Traveler Day

On April 24 the United States celebrated its first National Business Traveler Day, a day to recognize the 20 million travelers nationwide who take to the skies, rails or roads to propel the economy forward. Led by Upside Business Travel, virtual “co-hosts” of the event included more than 25 companies and organizations such as The Wall Street Journal, Lounge Buddy, the Global Business Travel Association, JetBlue and iPass, among others. Each year, business travelers contribute $547 billion toward the nation’s economy, a number derived from approximately 514 million business trips and which accounts for approximately 3 percent of the nation’s gross domestic product. upside.com

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PHOTOS: © DELTA AIR LINES, © IVAN CHOLAKOV | DREAMSTIME.COM, © JONATHAN ROSS | DREAMSTIME.COM

delta.com

deals & rewards Oneworld’s New Affiliate Program for Smaller Carriers Oneworld created a new affiliate program to involve airlines with smaller client bases or those that do not offer enough services to be eligible for larger programs. Airlines that wish to join the affiliate program — named oneworld connect — require sponsorship from at least three of the 13 oneworld member airlines. As part of oneworld connect, affiliate airlines will be able to offer passengers access to oneworld airport lounges, benefits for high-status members (such as priority boarding) and the ability to earn points or miles with participating airlines. The first airline to join oneworld connect is Fiji Airways, sponsored by American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific and Qantas. oneworld.com/oneworld-connect

United’s International Premium Economy

As of late June, United Airlines joined the other two big U.S. airlines in offering a premium-economy class of seats for international flights. The airline’s Boeing 777-200 fleet will be outfitted with the new seats. During the rollout of premium economy, the seats will temporarily be referred to as standard economy plus, and United MileagePlus members will be eligible for free upgrades on international flights for the first few months. Once premium economy has been fully established, it will exist as its own class of seating with its own pricing and booking functions. united.com

PHOTOS: © UNITED AIRLINES, © DAYPASS, © AUDIBLE.COM

Collaboration Offers Travel-Related Audio Books

One of the world’s largest hotel chains partnered with one of the world’s most popular audio entertainment companies to curate a collection of stories inspired by global destinations and ready to be devoured by audio bookworms. The collaboration between InterContinental Hotels & Resorts and Audible brings historic tales to life through the spoken word, the stories of which offer insight into faraway lands where InterContinental properties also happen to be located. Guests can choose titles in the collection such as Breakfast at Tiffany’s by Truman Capote, A Tokyo Romance by Ian Buruma, Shanghai Girls by Lisa See and Cannery Row by John Steinbeck, among others. To enjoy Stories of the InterContinental Life, travelers can book a stay in a participating property and select the Novel Nights offer, which also includes late check-out, an array of Belgian chocolates from Neuhaus and a drink voucher. ihg.com audible.com

DayPass Provides Pool and Spa Access

A mobile app called DayPass allows travelers to purchase à la carte access to pools, spas and beach resorts normally reserved for hotel guests. With a simple download and search, travelers can browse luxurious places to relax in 45 cities worldwide, even when not staying at the adjoining hotel. The app lets users search by location and feature (such as pool or spa) and lists the operating hours, inclusions and full contact information for each spot. Users can make and pay for reservations through the app, and same-day reservations are available. daypassapp.com

SEPTEMBER 2018

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GT tested

ASIANA AIRLINES | BUSINESS CLASS Los Angeles (LAX) to Seoul (ICN)

Reviewed by Carly Allen On the Ground: The Star Alliance lounge at Los Angeles International Airport’s Tom Bradley Terminal is truly a delight for any business traveler and a great start to any trip. The lounge has a great selection of small bites, a full-sized bar, “outside” seating overlooking the terminal and real outdoor space with fire pits and seating. L.A. art and quotes keep the space unique to the destination. The Tom Bradley Terminal also features local dining options, shopping and duty-free shops. Pre-Flight: Asiana’s Airbus A380 boards quickly with its two-level entryways. My businessclass seat was on the top level and toward the front. The staggered 1-2-1 configuration gives everyone a bit more privacy, and my window seat afforded me tons of bins and secret spots to hold my laptop, iPad and other items. An attendant offered juice and water before takeoff, plus newspapers and, I’m proud to say, a copy of Global Traveler. We departed on time with a smooth take-off, for which the A380 is well-known.

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TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ The Korean cuisine was top-notch and a great example of traditional staples with a modern twist. ◆ Asiana’s award-winning flight attendants were welcoming and always one step ahead of passengers’ needs. ◆ The A380’s wide-body style gives the gentlest takeoff and landing experience. ASIANA AIRLINES flyasiana.com

PHOTOS: © CARLY ALLEN

In-Flight: Once we reached cruising altitude, I explored my seat area. Asiana’s business-class electronics are not lacking: A large personal screen was perfect for the large selection of American movies and music, easily navigated with the handheld controller at my side. The seat was a bit narrow; however, it featured comfortable cushions and many pre-selected angles for relaxing before adjusting to the 180-degree night setting. As lunch service began, I queued a newly released movie and started off with a hot green tea along with a warm towel. I love Korean food, so it was natural to choose the Korean option for my meal. In Korean fashion, the appetizers came as three small plates of prosciutto on a melon-and-ricotta-stuffed mushroom, pickled vegetables and Korean pumpkin porridge (hobakjuk). My main course was ssambap: steamed rice, grilled beef and bean paste, which you wrap using large pieces of lettuce and leafy vegetables. I felt like I was eating my own Korean barbecue before stepping foot into Seoul. I topped dinner service with cheesecake and a small glass of Camus XO Cognac as a nightcap. I’m not much of a sleeper on flights, so after my second movie and doing some work, I wandered about the cabin. The forward upper-deck business class has two bathrooms, one triple the size of any airline bathroom I have ever seen, a small seating area included. The bathroom offered L’Occitane products along with a personal amenity kit. The business lounge on the upper deck had four seats, a large screen and drinks available for guests. I didn’t see anyone take advantage of the area during my flight, but I did walk up and down the stairs a few times to stretch my legs and for the novelty of using stairs at 35,000 feet. The friendly flight attendants served breakfast, helped straighten up the cabin and refreshed the ever-present green tea during our final few hours.

GT tested

THE WESTIN CAPE CORAL RESORT AT MARINA VILLAGE

PHOTOS: © THE WESTIN CAPE CORAL RESORT AT MARINA VILLAGE

Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

Arrival/Check-In: My check-in experience was a bit comical. I arrived at the expansive property and was quickly helped by a friendly front desk attendant. I appreciated the offer of a water or soda, and I agreed to forego housekeeping for a food and beverage voucher, knowing I’d use that in just a little bit when I ordered a room service lunch. Guests can also receive loyalty points for opting out of the cleaning service. The true comedy began when I made my way to my first guestroom. Upon entering, I noticed it looked a bit used, with an unmade bed, towels crumpled on the floor and dirty glasses.Thankfully, it was uninhabited at that moment! I went back to the lobby to let them know that room hadn’t been cleaned. New key, new guestroom, and I was on my way. Not so fast — my keycards were not working. Third time was the charm, especially since the front desk attendant escorted me to the guestroom to make sure everything worked properly. Each time, they were apologetic for the inconveniences, and the positive attitude and friendliness helped make an annoying situation a bit less irritating. Guest Quarters: My guestroom was spacious, and I enjoyed having what felt like endless space to sprawl. It was the equivalent of a one-bedroom apartment in most major cities. At the entrance, a full kitchen sits immediately to the right. An opening with a bar-like counter overlooks the dining and living room, straight ahead of the entrance. I used the large, six-person dining table as my desk during my visit. A deck spanned the length of the room, with access from both

the living room and the bedroom. The comfortable king-sized bed, flanked by two nightstands, sat across from a dresser with a flat-screen television on top. Between the bedroom and the bathroom were a small sink area and a large closet. I used this space mostly to get ready, as I could watch television and have easy access to the luggage and clothes stored in the closet. The bathroom was also generous in size, with a separate water closet, a stall shower, a sink with adequate counter space and a stacked washer/dryer combo inside a small closet. Services/Amenities: Families will appreciate the Westin Family Kids Club Discovery Room and the other activities associated with the Westin Family program. The on-site fitness center is open 24 hours, and there’s also a spa. The heated resort pool offers views over the Caloosahatchee River and Gulf of Mexico. In addition to room service, the property offers Marker 92 Waterfront Bar & Bistro and the Nauti Mermaid Dockside Bar & Grill. It currently boasts more than 15,000 square feet of function space, with a new conference center slated to open this year. The resort, situated at Marina Village, also lies near the housing of Tarpon Point and the Tarpon Point Marina. From the hotel, a variety of shops — from a shoe store to a candy store — are within walking distance, as is Pinchers, a local seafood chain.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Even in the conference facilities, WiFi and cell service were spotty. I heard several other conference attendees complain as well. ◆ For a day tour to Cabbage Key, the conveniently located resort’s dock area meant I could walk outside and be on board my boat for the day within minutes. ◆ From room service to the conference buffets to a closing dinner, each meal I enjoyed at The Westin Cape Coral Resort at Marina Village was tasty and fresh. THE WESTIN CAPE CORAL RESORT AT MARINA VILLAGE 5951 Silver King Blvd. Cape Coral, FL 33914 tel 239 541 5000 westin.marriott.com

SEPTEMBER 2018

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GT tested

AC HOTEL CUZCO Reviewed by Katie Skrzek

Guest Quarters: Tired from a long day of travel, I sank into the comfortable bed before doing much else. I needed that brief nap. The brand takes comfort seriously, and this is reflected in the bedding. The mattress had the perfect balance of firm and comfortable. The brand’s mattresses are all made in Spain. AC Hotels takes a harmonious, discerning and modern design approach. The décor reflected the brand’s modern, European design with hardwood floors, crisp white linens, contemporary gray furnishings and an overall elegant design. All of the room furnishings are purposeful, simple and elegant. The goal is to make guests feel at home. The bathroom mirrored the design of the rest of the room with bright, white fixtures and dark wood floors and walls. The shower featured both a handheld

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SEPTEMBER 2018

and rainfall showerhead. Large, soft towels were available for extra comfort. Rooms offer open closets; I enjoyed the feature for ease of getting ready and navigating the space. Services/Amenities: One of my favorite aspects of a hotel stay is the dining. I particularly enjoy a European breakfast. During my stay I dined at the property’s basement-level breakfast buffet. The spread featured popular Spanish and European dishes including sliced meats and cheeses, pastries and tortilla española — a favorite of mine. Lunch and dinner service is available in the same room, though I did not experience either service during my stay. However, I enjoyed tapas at the lobby-level AC Lounge. Freshly sliced jamón ibérico and lightly fried calamari were standouts. If you prefer, room service is available 24 hours a day. I was in Madrid for a short visit, so I didn’t have time to experience all of the on-site amenities. The property has 12 meeting rooms covering more than 9,500 square feet. The fitness center, open 24 hours, offers cardio equipment and weights. WiFi is complimentary throughout the property. AC Hotel Cuzco is an ideal property for business or leisure travelers.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Stop by the AC Lounge for the brand’s signature gin and tonic cocktail, meticulously crafted by the superb bartenders. It was one of the best I’ve ever experienced. ◆ The property is steps away from the Cuzco metro stop, for easy access to transportation around Madrid, and Santiago Bernabéu Stadium for fútbol fans. ◆ AC Hotels currently has more than 100 new properties in the pipeline. Keep an eye out for the opening nearest you. AC HOTEL CUZCO Paseo de la Castellana 133 28046 Madrid, Spain tel 34 915 56 06 00 achotels.marriott.com

PHOTOS: © AC HOTEL CUZCO

Arrival/Check-In: I arrived in Madrid early in the morning after a long day of travel. AC Hotel Cuzco is a short drive from Madrid-Barajas International Airport. Though I arrived at the property hours before check-in time, my room was ready. After a swift check-in process, the front desk attendant pointed me toward the elevator bank, and I made my way to my room on the 10th floor.

one on one

KRISTEN BOWDOIN Managing Director, Chase Bank Credit Cards

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? There will continue to be a focus on the digital aspects of the travel experience. We need to focus on making our credit cards more personally relevant on a one-on-one basis, including personalizing offers throughout the travel experience. Best career advice you’ve received: Be a strong and active listener. If you go to meetings and don’t listen, you’re not going to get the best outcome. Surround yourself with people with different perspectives and backgrounds. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Put the customer first in everything you do. Chase builds brands considering the customer first. AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: I visited Cuba with my brother, sister and oldest son. My mother was born in Cuba, so it meant even more to visit with the familial connection. It’s untouched, and I loved learning more about the history and people. One travel tip you cannot live without: Pack in a color scheme and force yourself to pack workout clothes. Best advice for business travelers: Bring your own WiFi and a portable charger.

PHOTO: © JP MORGAN CHASE

ABOUT YOUR BRAND What benefits can premium travelers expect from the United MileagePlus Club Card from Chase? The best benefit for premium travelers is lounge access — there’s always the opportunity to find a relaxing environment within the airport to snack, conduct business, etc. You also receive Premier Access and two free checked bags for yourself and anyone else traveling in your party.

Name: Kristen Bowdoin Title: Managing director Company, city: Chase Bank Credit Cards; Wilmington, Delaware Number of employees: 12 Recent project: Relaunching the United MileagePlus Explorer Card from Chase June 1; now called the United Explorer Card, it offers two times the miles on dining and hotel stays, up to a $100 statement credit toward Global Entry or TSA PreCheck application fee and 25 percent back on in-flight purchases, including WiFi. First job: My first job was working at a fast-food Greek restaurant in Paramus Park Mall, where I got hooked on Greek salads. My first job in credit cards was 23 years ago, at the banking management company at a Pennsylvania regional bank. Little-known fact about you: I love to dance. I’m the first person on the dance floor at weddings.

Tell our readers more about the United Explorer Card from Chase. It’s now the go-to card for people who love to travel and makes it effortless to get rewarded. We’ve made the card more rewarding both in the air and on the ground, adding to the existing United flight benefits by also rewarding cardmembers at hotels and restaurants, plus enhancing airport access and earning potential. What are the can’t-miss events happening in 2018 and 2019 with Inside Access from Chase? Inside Access events are held within the seven hub cities of United Airlines and offer exclusive access and events for cardholders, from culinary experiences to hard-to-get reservations. We’re also adding weekend experiences. Some of the events so far this year included the Kentucky Derby and Wimbledon. In June and July, a Mondavi Concert Series offered access to the artists. There’s more to come!

SEPTEMBER 2018

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one on one

FRANÇOIS LUIGGI General Manager, The Pierre, a Taj Hotel

drinks from the minibar, WiFi for up to four devices, pressing of five garments upon arrival and a direct private phone number to our concierge team reserved exclusively for Grand Suite guests. Our twobedroom Tata Presidential Suite can be combined with other rooms and suites to offer six bedrooms under one key, creating a completely private rental on the entire 39th floor.

Name: François Luiggi Title: General manager Company, city: The Pierre, a Taj Hotel; New York City Number of employees: 500-plus Recent project: Launch of our new signature restaurant, Perrine First job: Assistant manager of room service at the Essex House in New York when it was managed by Nikko Hotels Little-known fact about you: I was born and raised on Corsica in southeastern France. YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? Anything transactional that can be automated will disappear, like the front desk, already being phased out by several hospitality brands. The role of hoteliers will continue to evolve as properties become one of the few opportunities to socialize in person and meet interesting people. Best career advice you’ve received: The guest should always be at the center of everything we do. Thank you, Horst Schulze [former The Ritz-Carlton president]! What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? If you wake up in the morning looking forward to serving people, you made the right choice! Otherwise, consider a career change.

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AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: I will never forget driving Australia’s Great Ocean Road, one of the world’s most scenic coastal drives, and taking the Ghan train to Alice Springs to see the famous red sands of Ayers Rock. One travel tip you cannot live without: Always travel with a sarong or something similar, like a shemagh or keffiyeh. Great for the plane (eye mask or neck support), a change in temperature, sun protection, carrying personal items or even as a makeshift towel. It’s truly a multipurpose accessory. Best advice for business travelers: Learn how to pack correctly. Plan for contingencies like delays or an unexpected meeting by adding a day’s worth of extra clothing to your carry-on. ABOUT YOUR BRAND What can premium travelers expect from a stay at The Pierre, a Taj Hotel? All our guestrooms offer abundant natural light, high ceilings and a classic, residential-inspired design. In addition to 140 traditional rooms, premium travelers can choose from 49 suites, including 10 spacious Grand Suites with Manhattan views, fourfixture bathrooms and separate pantry kitchens. Grand Suite guests receive full American breakfasts at our signature restaurant, Perrine, or through room service, plus complimentary juices and soft

What is Great Performances at The Pierre? What other unique amenities and offers are available? Throughout its 88-year history, The Pierre has been known for entertaining. During the 1940s and 1950s the hotel’s supper club featured condensed versions of popular Broadway musicals. We are bringing great performances back with cabaret and jazz nights in our Two E lounge. Once a month, Broadway at The Pierre offers an intimate evening of songs and stories from cast members of beloved shows. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, Two E hosts live jazz piano from our resident artist, Antonio Ciacca. Our long tradition of celebrated cuisine continues, with seasonally inspired French-American fare in Perrine and light supper and tableside cocktails in our most iconic space, The Rotunda. The gourmet 24-hour room service includes Perrine’s full menu, Two E’s afternoon tea service and select Indian specialties. Guests enjoy complimentary coffee, tea and pastries in the lobby daily 5–8 a.m.; on-site, 24-hour valet and hand laundry; packing/unpacking service upon request; and a complimentary Jaguar house car. From our white-gloved elevator attendants to our award-winning Les Clefs d’Or concierge team, we take pride in offering personalized, 5-star service. As our Chief Concierge likes to say, the impossible will be done immediately, and the extraordinary will take a few moments longer!

PHOTO: © THE PIERRE NEW YORK

Tell us about the hotel’s incredible NYC location. The Pierre has a fantastic location across from Central Park in Manhattan’s most exclusive neighborhood, the Upper East Side. Our rooms feature spectacular views of the Park and the New York skyline. We’re steps away from luxury shopping on Madison and Fifth avenues, and Museum Mile is within walking distance. Our location offers both proximity to the best of New York and a sophisticated respite from the city’s bustling pace.

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Setting the Standard From its myriad amenities to its unique collaborations, The Pierre, A Taj Hotel remains a New York City icon. SITUATED ACROSS FROM NEW YORK CITY’S famed Central Park, The Pierre, A Taj Hotel not only offers an enviable location, but also a wealth of signature amenities that enhance the hotel’s standard for outstanding hospitality. Whatever your need, The Pierre has the answer. Some unique hallmarks of the property’s signature offerings include 24-hour, white-gloved elevator attendants; an award-winning Les Clefs d’Or Concierge team; a multilingual staff representing 35 foreign nationalities; and complimentary Jaguar service on a first-come, first-serve basis. Once comfortably ensconced in your luxury accommodations, the amenities continue to deliver. Among many in-room comforts, guests enjoy complimentary WiFi; exclusive Etro toiletries; one-hour on-site pressing service; packing/unpacking service upon request; and complimentary dog

amenities (for dogs up to 15 pounds). Another can’t-miss feature of the 5-star property — Perrine, serving seasonally inspired fare under the direction of Executive Chef Ashfer Biju. Opened in May 2016, the restaurant debuted with a soft renovation of the space, offering more natural light and a brighter setting. Outdoor seating is available all summer long. A nice complement to the cuisine of Perrine is the beloved Two E Bar & Lounge, with its award-winning Afternoon Tea curated by the in-house pastry team. By night, the space serves handcrafted cocktails and small plates, accompanied by live jazz Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings. Outfitted with work from renowned local artists, changed on a quarterly basis, Two E Bar & Lounge also plays host to another local specialty with the monthly cabaret series, Broadway at the Pierre. Through October, Two E Lounge presents the Wicked Ozdust Series, three exclusive cabaret performances in celebration of Wicked’s 15th anniversary on Broadway. Wicked kicked off the hotel’s Broadway at the Pierre program last year. The Pierre announced a collaboration with Château Miraval this spring, exclusively serving the brand’s rosé in its dining outlets. Enjoy an elegant, timeless and unrivaled stay in New York City. Learn more about the iconic The Pierre, A Taj Hotel at thepierreny.com.

technology

HOME AND AWAY Take advantage of digital tools, wherever you roam.

BY JACK GUY

SONY VPLHW45ES HOME THEATER PROJECTOR A home projector will transform your media experience, and the Sony VPLHW45ES is one of the best overall choices. It can handle 1080p and 3D content, boasts great brightness and contrast, and the built-in fan is super-quiet. Invest in this premium projector and you’ll soon be able to put on great movie nights or invite friends over to watch the game on a better screen than at your local bar. A three-year warranty shows how confident Sony is in its product, too. $1,999.99. sony.com

BOWERS & WILKINS PX NOISE-CANCELLING WIRELESS HEADPHONES The legendary British hi-fi brand Bowers & Wilkins turns its hand to headphones with the impressive PX model. Audio quality is as amazing as you would expect, and the craftsmanship is top-notch. USB-C charging and 20-hour battery life make for great functionality, as do nifty features such as automatically pausing content when you take the headphones off. Choose the more muted gray colorway or stand out from the crowd with the blue and gold option. $399.99. bowers-wilkins.co.uk

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MOLESKINE PEN + ELLIPSE Take your analog notes into the digital realm with the Pen + Ellipse from Moleskine. The smart pen combines with the Moleskine Notes app and the Paper Tablet to allow you to write by hand while the tech combines your diary entries with the calendar app of your choice. It also digitalizes your sketches and notes, plus it works even when you don’t have an internet connection. Perfect for planning and plotting on long flights. You’ll have to buy the $30 Paper Tablet separately, but the system enjoys a great reception. $179. moleskine.com

PHOTOS: © NEATO, © SONY, © BOWERS & WILKINS, © MOLESKINE

NEATO BOTVAC D7 CONNECTED Hailed by reviewers as the top robot vacuum on the market, the Botvac Connected makes keeping your home clean a cinch. Program the robot with the sleek Neato app or use the remote control if you’re in the house. LIDAR technology makes it great at mapping the cleaning area, and powerful cleaning capabilities mean the Botvac Connected can even handle tough assignments such as clumps of dog hair. It’s an all-around package that might well be the best around. $799.99. neatorobotics.com

wine & spirits

RETURN TO PORTUGAL Continuing a tasting tour of Alentejo’s versatile reds and whites. BY EUNICE FRIED

TASTE OF ALENTEJO: Vineyards at Herdade da Malhadinha Nova PHOTO: © TIAGO CARAVANA

t Mos se ugue Port s wine e l b a t r il fo reta in -45 $20 nited the U es. Stat

IN LAST MONTH’S COLUMN, I talked about the wines of Alentejo, the Portuguese region that opens like a fan southeast of Lisbon. On my recent trip there, I tasted so many interesting wines I could not mention all in one column. And so, this month, we continue our tour of Alentejo. At Dona Maria, I tasted wines made of both native Portuguese grapes and international grapes, and there was much to admire in both. The white Amantis Reserva 2015, from the French grape Viognier, offered deep fruit flavors, a pleasant roundness and intense taste. Dona Maria Red Wine 2015 is a blend of half Portuguese grapes, half a combination of mostly French grapes. Together, they produce a pleasant, inviting wine. Next I tried Dona Maria Touriga Nacional 2015, made from Portugal’s leading native red grape. The nose is so intense, it fairly leaps out of the glass. The taste reminded me of apples. The finish lingered on, a pleasing reminder of a tasty wine. And there was Dona Maria Grande Reserva 2013, a

blend of Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Nacional and the French grapes Petit Verdot and Syrah, all treaded by foot and fermented in ancient stone lagares. At Herdade dos Grous, I enjoyed its Branco Reserve 2017, a full, round, white wine, followed by Herdade dos Grous 23 Barricas 2016, a wine that blends Touriga Nacional and Syrah to produce a full-bodied, well-structured, sturdy red. Its single vineyard 2016 is based on Alicante Bouschet, a grape widely used throughout southern Europe and particularly in Alentejo. The grape proves its versatility once again in Herdade dos Grous’ Red Reserva 2015, which combines it with Touriga Nacional and Tinta Miŭda. Well-integrated with a long, lively finish, it makes the perfect partner to a cheese course. My final stop was Herdade da Malhadinha Nova, whose Touriga Nacional wine shows the grape in all its vibrancy with a spiciness and hint of oak and vanilla. We finished with Antão Vaz 2016 — smooth, silky and elegant, a fine way to end a visit to Alentejo.

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wealth

ESTATE PLANNING: A HOLISTIC APPROACH time of implementation. A detailed understanding of probate versus non-probate assets dovetails with a well-contemplated estate tax allocation provision in the client’s will. For some clients, the estate tax allocation provision is the most important or the most complicated provision in the will. For clarity, reference here to a “will” includes any dispositive document that is a so-called will substitute, such as a revocable trust. It is imperative, therefore, the attorney communicates with the client about the flow of assets and estate tax consequences, and perhaps income and generation-skipping transfer taxes as well. Sometimes, however, attorneys who might spend considerable time discussing transfer taxes and how to reduce them will choose an estate tax allocation clause without conferring with the client. Even where tax apportionment is discussed, drafting oversights or mistakes can lead to negative results. The estate planning team and the client need to first consider if all estate taxes, including those resulting from non-probate assets, should be paid from the residuary estate or if beneficiaries of non-probate assets and specific (pre-residuary) bequests should pay their share of estate taxes. Generally, the client’s intent is that DIFFERENTIATING BETWEEN PROBATE and non-probate beneficiaries of personal property and specific bequests receive assets is critical. The easiest way to understand the difference such assets in their entirety without being reduced by estate taxes. is to determine if the property, through its titling or beneficiary Additionally, where a client names both charitable and nondesignation, directs the distribution of the asset to its beneficiaries charitable beneficiaries of the residuary estate, the intent is for at the time of the owner’s death. Common probate properties only the non-charitable beneficiaries to pay estate taxes. include real property owned outright or as a tenancy-in-common, If the attorney does not address estate tax apportionment, nonqualified bank or brokerage accounts not held in joint-tenancy, drafts the provision improperly or fails to consider all the taxable interest in corporations and other estate’s assets, it is possible the attorney legal entities, jewelry and automoinstead of the client determines the disFor some clients, the estate tax biles. Common non-probate assets positive plan. There is no significance allocation provision is the most include real property held jointly; to a lack of an estate tax allocation life insurance (unless the decedent’s important or the most complicated provision or having an incorrect one if estate is the beneficiary); qualified a decedent’s estate is not taxable or if provision in the will. retirement accounts such as IRAs, the beneficiaries of probate and nonKeoghs, profit-sharing plans, pension probate assets are the same and share plans and 401(k) plans; bank or brokerage accounts with a named in the same percentages. beneficiary on the account; and beneficial interests in a trust Much as a person who dies intestate is given an estate plan by account expiring at death. applicable state law, so, too, with estate tax allocation clauses. If Probate and non-probate assets together comprise the gross a decedent’s will lacks one, state law provides a plan, and the tax taxable estate. As noted last month, the estate planning team follows the asset. More often than not this results in the most equishould prepare an overall analysis of all assets to increase the table outcome, as compared with the residue of the probate estate odds the ultimate distribution will match the client’s intent. A paying the entire tax bill; however, it may not be what the client substantial portion of a client’s estate could be non-probate assets desires. The bottom line is every client with an estate subject to and be distributed to beneficiaries outside of the will. Accordestate taxes should have and is entitled to an estate tax allocation ingly, not having an accurate accounting of all assets may have provision that makes sense for the client and results in accomplishnegative effects on what may have been an excellent plan at the ing his or her goals.

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PHOTO: © FIZKES | DREAMSTIME.COM

Part two: Don’t ignore the importance of estate tax allocation clauses.

tours

TAKING OFF Customize your dream getaway with Delta Vacations. BY KRISTY ALPERT

When th ing wi travel ions, Vacat Delta iles SkyM Delta t ers no custom iles arn m only e ir, n the a i e l i h w y so the but al es rn mil can ea iles use m y e h t as ooking when b ions. vacat t c e l e s

TO THE BEACH: Delta Vacations operates vacations in the Caribbean and Mexico PHOTO: © YOBRO10 | DREAMSTIME.COM

DELTA AIR LINES HAS COME A LONG WAY since it first began flying operations in 1924. Back then, the now popular airline ran a humble crop-dusting operation based in Macon, Georgia, making headway as the first commercial agricultural flying company in the world. Over the years, the operation expanded to include passenger service and grew into one of the leading airlines in the world. For years Delta operated as a successful commercial airline, currently connecting its passengers to more than 900 locations worldwide. It wasn’t until 2008, when it acquired MLT Vacations, that it became the leader in custom vacation packages through its new Delta Vacations subsidiary. Delta Vacations is the official vacation provider of Delta Air Lines. The company, founded back in 1969 as Mainline Travel, began solidifying its stellar reputation for offering customers truly unique vacation packages. In 1985 Northwest Airlines purchased the company, becoming one of the first airline vacation providers, better known at the time as MLT Vacations. During the Northwest Airlines and Delta Air Lines merger of 2008, MLT Vacations was absorbed into the Delta family and renamed Delta Vacations. Today Delta Vacations is a wholly owned subsidiary of Delta Air Lines and one of the largest vacation package providers in the United States. Working directly with travel agents, Delta Vacations offers

comprehensive packages including overnight stays at more than 4,500 hotels and resorts around the world in more than 300 destinations, as well as flights on both Delta Air Lines and its partners (Air France, KLM, Alitalia, Aeromexico and Virgin Atlantic). Delta Vacations also includes airport and hotel transfers in its vacation bundles as well as rental cars, allowing guests the mobility and flexibility in their travels to head out on their own. Vacationers also have the chance to join hundreds of exciting tours and excursions available as add-ons or additional bundles to the vacation packages offered through Delta Vacations-approved travel agents. The company operates a U.S.-based Customer Engagement Center, with more than 500 employees spread throughout Atlanta, Ga.; Minot, N.D.; Minneapolis, Minn.; and other virtual locations throughout America. Although U.S.-based, the company operates vacations both inside and outside of the United States, including in Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, Europe, Asia, Australia and the Middle East. Luxury options are also available, with a number of honeymoon and destination wedding packages. By utilizing cutting-edge technology like WorldAgent Direct, Delta Vacations’ preferred agents are able to book vacation packages online while offering flexible payment options like 24-hour holds, deposits and more.

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spas

BEACHSIDE BLISS Calm, renew, indulge and invigorate on Marco Island. BY SUSAN B. BARNES

SENSE OF CALM: Spa by JW lobby PHOTO: © JW MARRIOTT MARCO ISLAND BEACH RESORT

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ON THE SOUTHWEST COAST of Florida, the calm, warm Gulf of Mexico waters caress the white sugar-sand beaches that meander along the coastline. The mellow sun shines down while a gentle breeze blows. In this tranquil setting you find the JW Marriott Marco Island Beach Resort and its luxurious Spa by JW, the luxury brand’s first beachfront location in the continental United States. On the north end of the expansive resort, which just finished $320 million in renovations, the 24,000-square-foot, stand-alone, Balinese-style Spa by JW beckons — elegant yet with a laid-back vibe you would expect at the beach. As soon as you enter the reception area, a sense of calm and relaxation washes over you, not unlike the warm waters of the Gulf, and you know you are in for pampering. Just as the other Spa by JW locations around the world, the one on Marco Island follows a philosophy designed around four outcomes: Calm, Renew, Indulge, Invigorate. The spa

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incorporates that philosophy not only into its exquisite design and warm, welcoming décor but also in all of the personalized treatments and amenities. World-renowned experts inspired by the tropical environs found at the JW Marriott Marco Island Beach Resort specifically designed the treatments on the spa menu. One treatment, the Marco Island Coconut Scrub, falls under the Invigorate philosophy outcome — “to find balance and energy on your way to a new vitality.” Combining sugar cane and the scents of coconut milk and honey, the 50-minute treatment is intended to make your skin glow as well as replenish lost moisture, which can easily happen in the warm Florida sun. Found under the Calm philosophy outcome — “to slow your world down, for as long as you like” — the 5 Senses massage does just that, slowing your world down into a sense of complete relaxation. Over the course of 80 minutes, your skilled therapist works to balance your body and mind while

incorporating all five senses in the healing process. When it is time to return to reality, consider the Feel Revived massage under the Renew philosophy outcome — “to get back to the necessity of simply feeling good — about your body, your mind and your spirit.” The Feel Revived massage intends to awaken tired muscles and rejuvenate the body and mind yet leave you naturally relaxed. What better way to face the world? If you are short on time but could still use the benefits of a quick massage, ask the spa receptionist about the Express Spa — no appointment necessary, and treatments are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Settle into a state-of-the-art massage chair in an inviting, cocoon-like setting and enjoy an expedited massage (neck, shoulder, scalp, hand or foot — or all of the above) with aromatherapy; visual and audio effects complement the experience. These are but a sampling of the offerings at Spa by JW. In addition to these luxurious treatments, spa guests are invited to take advantage of the salon and exclusive facilities made available to them during the day of their treatments including private, adult-exclusive outdoor spa pools, hot and cold soaking mineral tubs overlooking the Gulf of Mexico, sauna, steam room and lounge. Speaking of the lounge, the Private Lounge at Spa by JW is designed to be a tranquil place to socialize with friends between treatments; enjoy a bite to eat and sip on refreshing beverages; or simply sit back and read, relax and restore. Feeling a bit hungry? Order something to nibble on and enjoy poolside or in the lounge — wherever you feel most comfortable. If you have your little ones along and they want to be part of the fitness fun, check out the recently introduced kids’ and teens’ complimentary yoga classes, which prove popular with families. Or if the kids ages 5 to 12 would rather have their own fun while you have yours, sign them up for the Tiki Tribe day camp, complimentary for guests who indulge in at least 50 minutes of spa treatment bliss. If you wish to add a little pep back into your step,

check out the state-of-the-art fitness center with its Technogym weight resistance machines, cardio equipment, free weights and mats for stretching. Speaking of stretching, fitness classes including yoga (floating yoga in the pool, anyone?), spin and Zumba are also available through the spa. However you choose to spend your time at Spa at JW at JW Marriott Marco Island Beach Resort, one thing is certain: You will find tranquility.

LAID-BACK:

Relaxation room (top), and spa scrubs (bottom) PHOTOS: © JW MARRIOTT MARCO ISLAND BEACH RESORT

Spa by JW JW Marriott Marco Island Beach Resort 400 S. Collier Blvd. Marco Island, FL 34145 tel 239 642 2686 jwmarco.com

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golf

CALIFORNIA DREAMING Bask in the San Diego sunshine at The Grand Golf Club. BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

WATER WORLD: Hole 17 PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

THE GRAND DEL MAR HOTEL (now a Fairmont property) opened in 2007 — not the best time to launch a luxury property — on the cusp of the recession, but it powered through and created a great resort with one of the top golf courses in Southern California. Grand Del Mar Golf Course, designed by Tom Fazio, originally opened in 1999 as part of the Meadows Del Mar. Lying in Los Peñasquitos Canyon Preserve just north of San Diego City, the course eventually became part of the Grand Del Mar Hotel. The private course is open only to members and hotel guests but recently opened to groups. One of the course’s great benefits is its forecaddie program. Every group, unless solely made up of members, must have a forecaddie to guide them and offer advice and encouragement. David Brew, our forecaddie, aimed to please by eyeing putts, offering advice from the tee box and fairway and raking bunkers. He added a great deal to our enjoyment of the course; even when we missed a putt he’d say, “That would have been great, nice try!” I teed up with Vladimir Velasco and Bill Noonan, former executives with Malaysia Airlines, and Steve White, GT Globility Board member. The three drove down from Los Angeles for the day’s competitive game.

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HOLE 1 | 383 yards, par 4

I was sure to secure a picture of the statue of Bobby Jones by the back tees, one of the legends of golf and the only golfer to win the true golf grand slam. We decided to choose the white tees and work on our scoring at Grand Del Mar. I was playing with Vlad’s older set of Nike irons and an offset driver that gave me a little trouble. I skied the first tee shot, landing just past the lady’s tee, while the others hit tremendous drives. I felt the pressure and for the second shot hit a 3-wood down to 80 yards from the hole. “Great recovery,” shouted Bill. Bill’s second shot was too far right, hitting the cart path and lost, eliminating him from the hole. I chipped up and two-putted for bogey, joining Vlad. Steve carded a nice par, which became habit for him: 14 pars and one birdie for an impressive 75.

HOLE 5 | 378 yards, par 4

This narrow hole is intimidating from the tee. The narrow fairway slopes significantly right to left. Still getting used to the offset driver, I aimed right but took the ball over the left trap, safe for a clean second

shot. Bill shanked his drive left, bouncing off a tree and into bushes on the right for a comical second shot back into play. Bogey was the best score, carded by Steve and me.

HOLE 8 | 454 yards, par 4

This tricky dogleg left causes havoc if you do not properly position your drive. Vlad drove too far left and too short to clear the high grass lining the left side of the hole. Steve and Bill both killed their drives, landing near the right fairway bunker. I overcooked my drive, landing just short of the same bunker but rolling up, allowing a clean second shot. With slightly more than 200 yards to go, I took out Vlad’s 3-wood Big Bertha and launched the ball toward the hole. It caught the front of the green and rolled successfully short of the pin. Bill suffered a calamity of errors, taking him out of play, while Steve stayed steady. With Brew lining up our putts, Steve and I carded pars.

HOLE 11 | 212 yards, par 3

This beautiful hole had lots of flowers blooming the day we played, but from the tee we laid a quadruplet of eggs. Brew suggested a redo. Our second attempts were far better. I teed off following Vlad, and we both carried to the left; Brew declared, “There is room over there.” Steve hit a much better shot to the center of the green, and Bill’s ball caught the right trap. Approaching the green, Steve found his first ball playable and carded a bogey. I chipped and landed within 15 feet of the pin and two-putted for a redo bogey. Bill and Vlad were not so fortunate and carded a double and a triple bogey!

HOLE 15 | 416 yards, par 4

As we started to close out the final holes of the back nine, Brew took us to the Grand Tee for a spectacular view. We decided to take a “fun ball” from the tips to see what we could achieve. To clear the brush and make it to the rough before the fairway is 220 yards, a significant distance to clear in the air. Steve and Bill made their best effort but came up short. Vlad hit one of his best drives of the day, clearing the brush to land in the rough. Deciding there was nothing to lose, I took Vlad’s better driver and slammed a beautiful drive right center, landing on the fairway below. “Fantastic drive!” said Brew. We returned to the white tees and Vlad and I decided to play our fun balls, allowing the lightweights to re-tee. My second shot was a low 3-wood which I nearly missed; I clipped the ball, sending it 180 yards to the left side of the green and taking out the guarding trap. A simple wedge got me in parputting distance, but I missed, carding a bogey. Bill also scored a bogey, and I reminded him mine was from the tips!

HOLE 17 | 242 yards, par 3

After we teed off from the whites, Brew took us to the tips for the vantage. The 242 yards from the back tees is unreachable by the average or better-than-average golfer. Our more forward tee box was not a problem except for Vlad, who dumped his tee shot and the next into the pond. Bill and I landed below the hole for a long and tricky uphill putt. Brew

gave us the read, and my putt nearly cupped out for a birdie. Bill joined me while Steve carded one of his few bogeys.

GRAND SLAM: Bobby Jones statue PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

HOLE 18 | 421 yards, par 4

A beautiful closing hole requires players to drive a ball far downhill for an approachable shot to an elevated green lying beyond a creek and guarded by bunkers. We accomplished a trio of great drives, and I took out Vlad’s Callaway driver for one last bound — landing just right of the left trap, kicking right and continuing down the hill. Steve and I were about equidistant for the longest drive on the hole. My next shot, with the wind, sailed about 160 yards but hooked slightly to hit the top of the left bunker and bounced in. Steve took a great iron shot to the green, landing left of the pin nine feet away. Vlad and Bill struggled with traps and water and were out. My bunker shot landed just past the pin as Brew yelled, “Great out!” Unfortunately, I two-putted for bogey. The star of the closing hole was Steve, whom Brew guided to a birdie.

The Grand Golf Club Fairmont Grand Del Mar 5200 Grand Del Mar Way San Diego, CA 92130 tel 858 314 1930 thegrandgolfclub.com

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chefs

FRENCH REVOLUTION Chef Yannick Alléno updates the classic cuisine at SIGNIEL Seoul’s STAY, Modern Restaurant.

BY KIMBERLY KROL

him. And I am not the only one. He made so many young people do extraordinary things. WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE? I started my training at the age of 15, learning from Manual Martinez, Jacky Fréon, Gabriel Biscay, Roland Durand, Martial Enguehard and Louis Grondard, all MOFs (Best Craftsmen in France). Consequently, classic French cuisine, excellence and rigor ruled the first 25 years of my career. Each had a style, but all had the same demanding nature toward taste with a huge knowledge and a fabulous will to pass down their expertise. They taught me perfection and almost everything I know today. No wonder I am so into sauces — they were all great masters of that, too! Still, the cuisine I do today is quite different from the one I learned; it is personal, more modern.

WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR CULINARY CONCEPTS? I like all culinary cultures and scenes; we all have interesting things to bring to the table. Apart from French gastronomy, mine which I love, I must admit Asian food, more specifically Korean food, is the most appealing, so rich and various. Kimchi is fantastic; Korean fermentations are mesmerizing. Barbecue is great as well. It’s an inspiring cuisine; we actually served bibimbap in our Parisian restaurant. We

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called it “homage dish to Lee Ufan.” Feedback was excellent.

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? More than a trend, the food scene globally moves toward a new, more responsible approach with focus on the importance of respecting the product, the environment, consuming locally. It’s a philosophy we’ve put into practice in all our restaurants. On our jackets in Paris, a green button reminds us every day of the importance of preserving products and the environment.

WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? Paul Bocuse had a determinant influence on the standing of French gastronomy internationally. He was our ambassador and will be irreplaceable. He understood we needed to modernize traditional cuisine and showed the example of what is and should be French cuisine in the world. I became a cook because I admired

STAY, MODERN RESTAURANT SIGNIEL SEOUL LOTTE World Tower 76F-101F 300 Olympic-ro Songpa-gu, Seoul South Korea tel 82 2 3213 1000 lottehotel.com

PHOTO: © LOTTE HOTELS & RESORTS

DESCRIBED AS “GOING BEYOND BORDERS on his endless quest for the quintessential in things,” Chef Yannick Alléno, twice awarded three Michelin stars, crafted the concept behind STAY. He’s bringing the philosophy around the globe, including the opening of STAY, Modern Restaurant, in April 2017 at SIGNIEL Seoul. The STAY promise: Across the world, bring to life a culinary experience of French taste that follows the rules of a cultivated experience, while remaining accessible, in a setting that is undeniably Parisian, chic and relaxed. Situated on the 81st floor of Lotte World Tower, STAY offers breathtaking panoramas of Seoul and a classic Haussmannian décor. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, the menu offers a wide range of dishes drawn from the tradition of great French cuisine. STAY Seoul’s Pastry Library offers its own range of delights for diners. Alléno has been chef at Alléno Paris – Pavillon Ledoyen since 2014 and also directs the kitchens of Cheval Blanc in Courchevel and Royal Mansour in Marrakech. The French and Moroccan Gault&Millau guides named Alléno Chef of the Year. Alléno Paris is listed in the 50 Best Restaurants of the World ranking.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? I would say Tokyo. I’ve been around 30 times, even though I do not have restaurants there. I admire Japan because, like Korea, it’s a developed country that knows how to retain strong rituals and identity. Tokyo also has many specialties with restaurants only dedicated to those. There are so many street restaurants where we eat extremely well. But the best thing for me in Tokyo is sushi; I am a big fan. A true art I discovered with Mr. Mitzutani, who took me as an intern when I was young.

cruising

RULER OF THE RIVERWAYS Explore the world in comfort and luxury with Viking River Cruises. VIKING RIVER CRUISES has become familiar to millions of TV viewers, chiefly through its sponsorship of the hit PBS series Downton Abbey. Those beguiling ads paint a picture of a premium cruise line delivering unforgettable experiences on the legendary riverways of northern Europe — the Danube, the Rhine, the Seine — and the picture is accurate. Passengers can expect a grand river tour filled with spectacles and special experiences, rendered in sophisticated style. Founded in 1997 by Torstein Hagen, who often appears in the Viking ads, the line grew especially rapidly, adding 40 of its signature 190-passenger Longships between 2012 and 2016 to become the largest river cruise line in the world. Viking River Cruises has long catered to the North American market, its all-inclusive sailings replete with free unlimited WiFi; complimentary beer, wine and soft drinks with onboard lunch and dinner; one shore excursion in every port at no charge; and cultural enrichment programs galore. The hallmark of a Viking cruise is luxury without pretense on a sleek, modern, Scandinavianstyle vessel, delivering what chairman Torstein Hagen dubs “the thinking person’s cruise.” Hagen explains, “Our guests are experienced travelers who appreciate immersive cultural experiences, while also exploring the world in comfort.” While several river cruise lines are even more upscale than Viking, no line comes close to Viking’s vast choice of European riverways, ports, itineraries and cruising dates. Moreover, Viking is set to introduce seven new river ships in 2019. And while North Americans remain the main focus for Viking, the Chinese gain market share. This year, Viking River Cruises added 100 sailings on the Rhine and Danube for Chinese travelers, with Mandarin the onboard language. Viking River Cruises is also bolstering its presence on riverways worldwide. It already sails in the Dnieper River in Ukraine, the Volga River in Russia, the Yangtze in China, the Irrawaddy in Myanmar and the Mekong in Cambodia and Vietnam. With a rebuilt and redesigned 48-passenger ship, the Viking Ra, Viking now offers 12-day cruises of the Nile in Egypt. It even has its eye on the Mississippi, where Viking hopes to discover America by launching a fleet of 300-passenger expanded Longships as early as the 2019 season.

BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

GRAND TOUR:

Viking Longship on the Rhine River (above), and the Viking Longship Aquavit Terrace (left) PHOTOS: © VIKING RIVER CRUISES

Meanwhile, Viking’s latest innovation is to combine the two main types of cruising into one, seamlessly linking a river cruise with an ocean cruise, entirely on Viking vessels. In 2019 it offers two such itineraries, one joining a Longship on the Rhine with a journey to the fjords of Norway (15 nights) and another combining a Danube and Rhine sailing with an ocean cruise ending in Bergen, Norway (22 nights). As chairman Hagen says, a Viking combo cruise “marries the river and sea into a single, unified journey.”

the With ction of u introd -passenger 0 its 93 ing fleet, go ocean ow gn Vikin assengers sp offer ce to an the ch sly merge es seaml cruise in r a rive with an pe Euro e in cruis n a e c o ay. Norw

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feature

Leisure Lifestyle Awards 2018 Global Traveler honors the best in leisure travel with a top-notch celebration. BY KIMBERLY KROL | PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICOLAS BATES

WITH A PICTURE-PERFECT SUNSET as our backdrop, Global Traveler lauded the winners of the 2018 Leisure Lifestyle Awards during an evening cocktail reception at The Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills. Now in its sixth year, the Global Traveler Leisure Lifestyle Awards honors the cream of the crop in destinations, airlines, cruise lines and hotels in the leisure and lifestyle travel categories. Sofitelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beautiful rooftop venue, overlooking Beverly Hills, was our host for the third year as acceptees and guests set sail with GT. For the cruise-themed event, Liz Watts and Company treated guests to sailor-inspired swing dance while the accompanying band played a range of hits from multiple decades.

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WINNERS’ CIRCLE BEST HISTORICAL ATTRACTIONS Turkey BEST BEACHES Costa Rica BEST ADVENTURE TRAVEL DESTINATION Thailand Second Consecutive Year BEST CARIBBEAN ISLAND Saint Lucia BEST ISLAND IN EUROPE Santoríni Fifth Consecutive Year BEST ISLAND PACIFIC RIM Cook Islands Third Consecutive Year BEST LEISURE DESTINATION IN THE UNITED STATES Nashville BEST LEISURE DESTINATION IN EUROPE Lisbon BEST LEISURE DESTINATION IN ASIA Taipei BEST LEISURE DESTINATION IN LATIN/SOUTH AMERICA Buenos Aires BEST LEISURE DESTINATION IN MEXICO Cabo San Lucas

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WINNERSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; CIRCLE

BEST WEEKEND DESTINATION IN THE UNITED STATES Savannah BEST WEEKEND DESTINATION IN THE WORLD Bermuda BEST GLAMPING DESTINATION The Resort at Paws Up

BEST BABYMOON DESTINATION Key West

AWARD WINNERS 1. Ji-Ho Choi, deputy general manager, marketing & sales, the Americas, Asiana Airlines

BEST NORTH AMERICAN SKI DESTINATION Jackson Hole, Wyoming

2. Max Knagge, general manager, Americas, Scandinavian Airlines

BEST INTERNATIONAL SKI DESTINATION Whistler, British Columbia

3. Angela Geissler, director of accounts, North America, Munich Airport

BEST FAMILY CRUISE LINE Regent Seven Seas Cruises

6. Brad Shih, director, Taiwan Tourism Bureau

BEST LUXURY CRUISE LINE Silversea Cruises Third Consecutive Year

7. Sermin Ozduran, director, Turkish Tourism Board, Turkish Culture and Tourism Organization 8. Sobhana Sucharitakul, marketing manager, Tourism Authority of Thailand

BEST CRUISE LINE SUITES Silversea Cruises

9. Chantelle Foran, operations and product development manager, Princess Cruises; Mayra Herrera, marketing manager, Princess Cruises

BEST ADVENTURE CRUISE LINE Windstar Cruises

10. Peter Ingram, CEO, Hawaiian Airlines 9.

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4. John Petersen, general manager, North America, Cook Islands Tourism 5. Rui Horta, president, general assembly, Visit Lisboa

BEST CRUISE LINE SPA Regent Seven Seas Cruises

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10.

WINNERS’ CIRCLE

BEST SMALL-SHIP CRUISE LINE Paul Gauguin Cruises Third Consecutive Year BEST LARGE-SHIP CRUISE LINE Cunard Line Third Consecutive Year BEST RIVER CRUISE LINE Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection

BEST CRUISE LINE ENTERTAINMENT MSC Cruises

BEST CRUISE LINE DINING Viking Cruises

AWARD WINNERS 1. Robert Castro, director of marketing, Silversea Cruises

BEST CRUISE SHIP EXCURSIONS Princess Cruises Third Consecutive Year

2. Diane Moore, president, Paul Gauguin Cruises 3. Jaime Paiko, senior director, marketing, Cunard Line

BEST CRUISE LINE REWARDS PROGRAM MSC Voyagers Club

4. Shirnett Fleet, vice president, marketing, Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Line 5. Marilys Ward, strategic marketing manager, Celebrity Cruises; Cynthia Rose, regional marketing manager, Celebrity Cruises

6. Bill Harber, president, Hurtigruten Cruise Line

7. Stacey Stegman, senior vice president of communications, Denver International Airport 8. Lori Goldspiel, director of sales, Azamara Club Cruises 9. Dayalan Nayager, global travel managing director, Diageo 10. Brian Povinelli, senior vice president, global brand leader, Westin & Le Méridien, Marriott International

FAVORITE CRUISE SHIP Celebrity Reflection Celebrity Cruises

10.

BEST LUXURY LEISURE HOTEL GROUP IN THE WORLD Meliá Hotels International Fourth Consecutive Year BEST HOTEL CHAIN RESORTS Westin Hotels & Resorts Fourth Consecutive Year BEST PET-FRIENDLY HOTEL Westin Hotels & Resorts

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WINNERSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; CIRCLE

BEST FAMILY RESORT CHAIN IN THE WORLD Westin Hotels & Resorts Second Consecutive Year

3. 5.

12.

BEST ALL-INCLUSIVE RESORTS Sandals Resorts BEST LEISURE AIRLINE Hawaiian Airlines Fourth Consecutive Year BEST PREMIUM-ECONOMY CLASS Scandinavian Airlines BEST AIRPORT FOR LAYOVERS Hamad International Airport

1. Honorable Dominic Fedee, minister, Saint Lucia Tourism 2. Eoghan Slye, senior director, media and integration, Hertz

BEST AIRPORT FOR RECREATION Munich Airport

3. Grigoria Kamaterou, director, Greek National Tourism Organization 4. Honorable Jamahl S. Simmons, JP, MP, minister of economic development and tourism, Bermuda Department of Tourism

BEST AIRLINE FOR ONBOARD ENTERTAINMENT Asiana Airlines BEST LUXURY VEHICLE Maserati 7. BEST LUXURY WATCH BRAND TAG Heuer Third Consecutive Year

5. Jason Montague, president & CEO, Regent Seven Seas Cruises; Randall Soy, executive vice president of sales, Regent Seven Seas Cruises

CRUISE LINE OF THE YEAR CRUISE LINE OF THE YEAR Azamara Club Cruises

BEST LIQUOR BRAND Johnnie Walker Blue BEST LUXURY TOUR OPERATOR Elegant Resorts BEST LEISURE CAR RENTAL Hertz

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SPECIAL ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS OUTSTANDING CUSTOMIZED SERVICES Denver International Airport OUTSTANDING ENVIRONMENTAL ACHIEVEMENTS Hurtigruten Cruise Line OUTSTANDING INNOVATIONS Singapore Changi Airport OUTSTANDING SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY Omni Hotels & Resorts

PARTY PICTURES 1. Younhee Choi, media planner, Sang Am & Associates; Jamie Lee, media director, Sang Am & Associates; Carly Allen, associate publisher and executive vice president, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Ji-Ho Choi, deputy general manager, marketing & sales, the Americas, Asiana Airlines

2. Carly Allen, associate publisher and executive vice president, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Alicia Cummings, vice president of marketing, Paul Gauguin Cruises; Diane Moore, president, Paul Gauguin Cruises

3. Brad Shih, director, Taiwan Tourism Bureau; Jennifer Tseng, marketing coordinator, Taiwan Tourism Bureau; Cathy Hung, deputy director, Taiwan Tourism Bureau; Sobhana Sucharitakul, marketing manager, Tourism Authority of Thailand; Patricia Gorman, regional marketing and PR representative, Turkish Airlines; Lert Narongchaisakun, senior marketing manager, Tourism Authority of Thailand

4. Robert Castro, director of marketing, Silversea Cruises; Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, FXExpress Publications, Inc.

5. Dayalan Nayager, global travel managing director, Diageo; Richard Evans, senior vice president, FXExpress Publications, Inc. 9.

6. Steve Smotrys, director of sales, national accounts, Cunard Line; James Ferguson, travel advisor, Travel Edge 7. Christian Mani, marketing manager, Cook Islands Tourism; John Petersen, general manager, North America, Cook Islands Tourism 8. Richard Evans, senior vice president, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Michael Abraham, sales and marketing executive

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

HOSPITALITY

MORE THAN JUST A WORD Our Business Class experience is made of true hospitality which comes from our hearts. It is central to everything we do. MORE THAN JUST MOVIES AND GAMES Hundreds of movies and music albums, Live TV, free Wi-Fi connection and much more will be at your fingertips.

MORE THAN JUST A TRANSFER With the Exclusive Drive* service, private chauffeur driven vehicles will take you to or from the airport, with a pleasant, luxury ride.

MORE THAN JUST A MEAL During your flight, a truly fine dining experience will take your taste buds above the clouds.

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E XCLU S I V E D R I V E S T I L L A B OV E T H E C L O U D S Exclusive drive service makes your travel experience all the more comfortable. Whether you are travelling to or from the airport, luxury chauffeur-driven vehicles are on hand to drive you to meet your flight or to take you to your hotel, office or home.

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feature

Height of Hospitality Lotte Hotels & Resorts lures guests with the ultimate in comfort and luxury. BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY DRAMATIC ENTRANCE:

The Lotte New York Palace's grand staircase PHOTO: © LOTTE HOTELS & RESORTS

IN NEW YORK CITY, one of its grande dame hotels quite arguably reached a new pinnacle. The revered New York Palace, more aptly known as The Palace, made its opulent debut during the 1980s when the “Queen of Mean,” Leona Helmsley, opened the 55-story tower atop a city heritage landmark in Midtown Manhattan. Chattering tongues wagged. Headlines roared. Notoriety followed. Over the years, a coterie of celebrity guests, wealthy tycoons and the most powerful world leaders imbibed inside the storied palace bedecked in gold finishes, handcarved ceilings, polished marble floors and a grand staircase worthy of a Hollywood movie set. The King of Pop, Michael Jackson, was a known regular. “His jacket was inspired by the bellmen at The Palace,” says David Shenman, director of sales and marketing, Lotte New York Palace,

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recalling MJ’s star-studded epaulette uniform. In 2015 LOTTE Hotels & Resorts, a Korean company part of the conglomerate The Lotte Group, acquired the 909-room luxury property on Madison Avenue for a reported $805 million, transforming the hotel into the Lotte New York Palace (pronounced Loh-tey). A further $140 million redesign put the hotel back on the map, giving it a facelift. The Lotte Group, established in 1948, is the fifthlargest business group in South Korea. The consortium consists of more than 60 business enterprises, among them duty-free shops, food and beverage and retail, with a crop of hotels under its Hotels and Resorts division. Shenman adds, “Lotte purchased this hotel to show 10 million New Yorkers and 60 million visitors what Lotte stands for,” describing the brand new to America but extremely well-known in Korea. General manager Becky Hubbard once told Leaders Magazine, “Our new ownership came in with a lot of love for this hotel from the start, and they wanted us to excel. We could not have asked for better owners because, while they are a huge conglomerate in Korea, hotels are the face

ROOMS WITH A VIEW:

St. Patrick’s Cathedral as seen from Lotte New York Palace (top), and hotel entrance at night (bottom) PHOTOS: © LOTTE HOTELS & RESORTS

of their company.” Korea’s largest hotel group has 19 properties in Korea and 10 additional properties stretching from the United States to Southeast Asia and Russia. The name “Lotte” derives from Charlotte, the heroine of Goethe’s masterpiece The Sorrows of Young Werther. According to the company, the Lotte Group aspires to create dreams to fill the world with love, liberty and life. “As a global group leading Asia, Lotte is committed to offer guests a more abundant life and a beautiful future,” reports a Lotte release. The Lotte New York Palace places the accent on creating experiences and offering bespoke service with an attentive staff, many of whom hail back to the days of Leona Helmsley. “We have many employees celebrating their 30 years,” Shenman comments on the company loyalty. The hotel car service chauffeurs guests within a roughly 20-block range via the Maybach, the highest-level Mercedes money can buy. During the nightly Palace Hour, the glistening, marbled lobby lounge welcomes guests for nibbles and other notable surprises — which could be show tickets to Radio City Music Hall located across the street. The hotel delivers on local experiences. “We became the official hotel of the U.S. president in New York City under the Obama administration,” says Shenman. The Palace was chosen in 2015 as a favored hotel for government leaders and staff during the annual U.N. General Assembly meeting. In addition, the Lotte New York Palace partnered with iconic establishments such as the New York Yankees, Radio City Music Hall and the Rockettes for special events and themed hotel packages. The Palace offers other perks on an ongoing basis. On Monday and Tuesday nights the lobby lounge features free live jazz while, on the weekends, sold-out magic shows from New York’s famous magician

Steve Cohen tantalize audiences in the Madison Room. “We try to do things that are only Palace experiences,” adds Shenman, listing other popular seasonal programming such as Mother’s Day and Christmas events to “create memories.” Barbados might have Rihanna. Toronto might have Drake. But this past spring, the Lotte Group snagged the K-Pop boy band VIXX as the ambassador for Lotte Hotels, due to its global popularity and image. K-Pop ambassadors aren’t a new phenomenon for the Korean hotel heavyweight, either. In 2015 the Lotte Group partnered with South Korean megastar Rain (aka Jung Ji-Hoon) as the face of the company (see him on promotional materials wielding SEPTEMBER 2018

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glasses of Champagne or Cabernet Sauvignon). Boyfriend, another South Korean boy band, also was named that same year as the official promotional ambassador for Lotte Hotel Busan, attending events and representing the hotel. Meanwhile, back at The Palace, while you won’t see a K-Pop band ambassador anytime soon, as Shenman summarizes, “We try and create magic here at The Palace.”

L7 HOTELS

Demographic: For the selfie crowd and the bold and beautiful who don’t mind Instagramming their experiences; a DIY coin laundry is available for style-conscious guests. Offerings: This is where comfort and high-tech meet. These hotels currently reside in Korea with three locations. Highlight: Big Gangnam-style appeal is the allure at the L7 Gangnam. Located in the K-Pop bustling district of race cars and bling, the floating bar says it all. Sit in the pergola by the crackling fire pit and enjoy a foot spa while sipping on Champagne as a celebrity DJ brings down the house.

LOTTE CITY HOTELS

Demographic: Ideally designed for business travelers, Lotte City Hotels provides the essentials for today’s corporate clients and prides itself on quality service and easy access for everyone. Offerings: Currently the majority of these properties are located in Korea, with seven hotels in cities like Ulsan, Jeju and Seoul. The other city hotel is in Uzbekistan. Highlight: The Lotte City Hotel Tashkent Palace in Uzbekistan revives the Old World Uzbekistani

splendor in this classic castle setting. Deemed as Uzbekistan’s cultural heritage site with museums and shops nearby.

Manhattan’s skyline shines on the illuminated Rockefeller Center.

LOTTE HOTELS

Demographic: Leisure and corporate travelers in pursuit of sightseeing, family fun and, wherever possible, activities like beach fun or skiing. This brand makes a good city break; let your hair down and relax. Offerings: Lotte Resorts properties are situated in Korea and Japan. Highlight: Facing the sea, the new cliff-hanging Lotte Resort Sokcho in mountain-rich Gangwon Province offers unobstructed ocean-view rooms and a water park. Kids under 13 years old stay free.

Demographic: Mostly situated in Southeast Asia and Asia with one property in the United States; designed for luxury corporate and leisure guests. Offerings: The hotels focus on prestigious landmark properties in the most luxurious locations in Korea, the United States, Russia, Vietnam and Myanmar. Highlight: Sleeping in The Towers at the fabled hallmark Lotte New York Palace with the best drone shot view of St. Patrick’s Cathedral. By night,

LOTTE RESORTS

SIGNIEL

Demographic: The ultimate world-class establishment for luxury-seeking guests who aim for the finest bespoke experiences. Offerings: Only one property; the 235-room SIGNIEL Seoul opened to huge fanfare in 2017, making it easily the signature brand of Lotte Hotels & Resorts. Highlight: Think 7-star hotel quality. Super-posh amenities from the flow of Champagne in the lounge to the specialty welcome tea from the fine tea purveyor Osulloc and majestic views of the Han River and the entire city of Seoul. Did we mention helicopter transfers, Michelin-starred chefs and the country’s most expensive hotel room at $18,000 a night?

SIGNATURE STYLE:

L7 Myeongdong (top), and SIGNIEL Seoul (bottom) PHOTOS: © L7 MYEONGDONG, © SIGNIEL SEOUL

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mice | BANGALORE

Bangalore Buzz India’s high-tech hot spot bustles with meetings and events. BY RICHARD NEWTON

MODERN AND HISTORIC:

(Left to right) Turret Room at The Leela Palace, The Oterra Hotel meeting space and boardroom, and the Mysore Palace PHOTOS: © THE LEELA PALACE BENGALURU, © THE OTERRA HOTEL, © NOPPASIN WONGCHUM | DREAMSTIME.COM

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BEFORE WE START, we need to address the issue that overshadows every visit to Bangalore (officially known as Bengaluru).You’ll find yourself talking about it, worrying about it and, most of all, in it. Traffic. It’s the bane of the city’s life. There are no quick fixes, and it’s getting worse. In 2016 the city’s average traffic speed was 12 mph; by 2017 it fell to 10 mph, the worst in India. Sometimes you’ll get a clear run and make good time, but the average results from the equal number of times you’ll grind along at walking pace, or not move at all. You’ll encounter the worst bottleneck at Silk Board Junction, south of the central district, which, unfortunately, you must negotiate to and from Electronic City,

SEPTEMBER 2018

Bangalore’s IT hub. A Metro rail link is due for completion in 2022, and a heli-taxi service has been proposed between Electronic City and the international airport (reducing to a few minutes the 15-mile journey which currently can take three hours or more). But for now, every appointment and every schedule comes with the proviso: traffic permitting. The city’s premier MICE facility, Bangalore International Exhibition Centre lies northwest of downtown. It’s not entirely immune to traffic issues (allow 30–60 minutes to reach it from downtown); but once you’re at the 57-acre site, you’ll be in a bubble of efficiency. The four main exhibition halls offer flexible layouts and, in addition, nine conference halls feature capacity for meetings of between 20 and 1,400 people. A food court offers a choice of high-end restaurants and fast food (including Subway and Domino’s Pizza). No international hotels exist in the immediate vicinity of BIEC. Most delegates opt to stay downtown, especially on or close to the city’s main axis, M.G. (Mahatma Gandhi) Road. Options include The Ritz-Carlton, which itself features a flexible range of meeting venues; The Oberoi, offering staff dedicated to planning corporate events; and the Golden Lotus Boutique Suites, with palatial, colorful rooms ideal for respite between meetings and the hurly-burly of the city streets.

Although Electronic City is Bangalore’s established IT hub, the formerly sleepy district of Whitefield, east of downtown, emerged as a rival in the past two decades, centered on the International Tech Park campus, housing numerous multinationals. With its own shopping malls and leisure facilities, Whitefield evolved into a city-within-a-city. One of the best accommodation options here is Vivanta by Taj – Whitefield (not to be confused with two other Vivanta by Taj hotels in Bangalore). With its futuristic architecture, the hotel represents Bangalore’s high-tech aspirations. In Electronic City itself, The Oterra Hotel is the 5-star choice. Event options here include a grand ballroom with capacity for 1,200; a poolside venue accommodating up to 70 people; a 40,000-square-foot lawn for garden events; and a range of boardrooms. Although Bangalore boasts a long and proud history, evidenced in the downtown British colonial architecture and many ruins from older periods, it lacks the worldclass attractions found in other major Indian cities. A daytrip to Mysore (officially Mysuru) provides a feasible MICE option. Situated 91 miles southwest of Bangalore, it features a wealth of must-sees. One of the must-do Bangalore activities is attendance at a cricket match at the 40,000-capacity M Chinnaswamy Stadium. The stadium is one of the hotbeds of Indian cricket, and being part of the crowd proves an unforgettable experience. You can mix in with the locals in the bleachers or, for a more refined experience, opt for the corporate stand. For a whole day or just an evening, the traffic woes will seem distant.

UNIQUE VENUES Palatial is the word: It’s a palace. Throughout India you’ll find many former residences of local maharajahs converted into opulent hotels. The Leela Palace Bengaluru is a little different. It’s not an old converted palace but a new one built from scratch. Architecturally inspired by the Palace of Mysore, the foundations were laid in 1997, and the hotel opened in 2001. You wouldn’t know it on first impression. With its marble columns, pink sandstone walls and dome-topped towers, it appears to be straight out of a fairy tale. The hotel features 17 spaces suitable for MICE events, from the intimate Turret Boardroom (with a capacity of 24 people) to the Grand Ballroom (with a capacity of 1,000). Concierge staff is on hand to take care of all details. For its first few years, The Leela was one of the most convenient addresses in Bangalore, located just five minutes from the airport and within easy reach of downtown. The property lost that advantage when the airport translocated to the north of the city in 2008; it’s now around an hour’s drive from the hotel (or much longer if the traffic is against you). The Leela remains ideally placed for the Embassy GolfLinks course, however, within walking distance. theleela.com embassyofficeparks.com/park/embassy-golf-links

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BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTEL KIDS CLUB: Atlantis Paradise Island, Bahamas PHOTO: © ATLANTIS PARADISE ISLAND, BAHAMAS

Wherever Awards 2018 Whereverfamily.com, the trusted travel source for the modern family, announces the winners of the first-ever Wherever Awards. TODAY’S FAMILIES COME IN A VARIETY of shapes and sizes. And with that comes a variety of needs, especially when it comes to travel. With this in mind, the team behind Global Traveler and Trazee Travel decided to put our travel expertise behind whereverfamily.com, the trusted travel source for the modern family, in September 2017. Updated daily, the web publication delivers content across a range of topics, bringing a worldwide focus to family travel no matter the makeup of your family, your income or your child’s age. Now we’re pleased to announce the winners of the inaugural Wherever Awards, the awards for the best in travel as decided by the readers of WhereverFamily. The ballot ran on whereverfamily.com Sept. 1, 2017–March 31, 2018. Without further ado, we present to you the winners and offer congratulations to those travel companies and destinations winning accolades from family travelers. When it comes to family-favorite airlines, Alaska Airlines, Best Family-Friendly Domestic Airline; TAP Air Portugal, Best Family-Friendly International Airline; and Delta Air Lines’ Delta

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BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT: Singapore Changi Airport PHOTO: © FAMVELDMAN | DREAMSTIME.COM

SkyMiles, Best Family-Friendly Frequent-Flyer Program, earn kudos. If you’re driving, consider Avis, Best Family-Friendly Rental Car Company. While your family might be used to your local gateway, if you can schedule your travels through these family-fun hubs, you’re guaranteed to kick off the trip with family-friendly amenities. The 2018 award-winning airports are Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, earning double honors as Best Family-Friendly Domestic Airport and Best Family-Friendly Airport Dining; Singapore Changi Airport, which nabs the Best Family-Friendly International Airport title; and Dubai International Airport, winning Best Family-Friendly Airport Shopping. After getting there, it’s time for some real family fun to begin,

special section |

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY ALL-INCLUSIVE HOTEL: Paradisus Playa del Carmen La Esmeralda, Mexico PHOTO: © PARADISUS PLAYA DEL CARMEN LA ESMERALDA, MEXICO

Wherever Awards 2018 Best Family-Friendly BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY DOMESTIC AIRLINE Vacation Company 1. Alaska Airlines 2. American Airlines Delta Vacations 3. JetBlue

4. United Airlines 5. Delta Air Lines

and these hotels and resorts ensure your crew has the best possible experience. Martinhal Family Hotels & Resorts takes two nods: Best Family-Friendly Resort Chain and Best Family-Friendly Individual Hotel for Martinhal Sagres, Algarve. The Ritz-Carlton takes home the top prize of Best Family-Friendly Hotel Chain. Catering to all the members of a family, even the furry ones, Westin Hotels & Resorts wins Best Family-Friendly Pet Hotel. Rack up the rewards with Radisson Rewards, Best Family-Friendly Frequent-Stay Program. Or let loose with the kids at Paradisus Playa del Carmen La Es-

meralda, Mexico, Best Family-Friendly All-Inclusive Hotel, or Atlantis Paradise Island, Bahamas, Best Family-Friendly Hotel Kids Club. Sometimes it’s easier, especially when coordinating a large family or a multigenerational trip, to leave the planning to someone else. Take advice from our family traveler readers and utilize these family-approved tour companies: Delta Vacations, Best FamilyFriendly Vacation Company; Adventures by Disney, Best Family-Friendly Domestic Tour Company; and Thomson Family Adventures, Best Family-Friendly International Tour Company. Lindblad Expeditions

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY INTERNATIONAL AIRLINE 1. TAP Air Portugal 2. Alaska Airlines 3. Qatar Airways 4. Air New Zealand 5. EVA Air BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY FREQUENT-FLYER PROGRAM 1. Delta SkyMiles 2. United MileagePlus 3. American Airlines AAdvantage 4. Hawaiian Airlines HawaiianMiles 5. JetBlue TrueBlue BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTEL CHAIN 1. The Ritz-Carlton 2. Martinhal Family Hotels & Resorts 3. Hyatt Hotels 4. Westin Hotels & Resorts 5. Sheraton Hotels BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY RESORT CHAIN 1. Martinhal Family Hotels & Resorts 2. Hyatt Hotels 3. InterContinental Hotels & Resorts 4. Crowne Plaza 5. Westin Hotels & Resorts

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY INDIVIDUAL HOTEL: Martinhal Sagres, Algarve PHOTO: © MARTINHAL SAGRES, ALGARVE

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY INDIVIDUAL HOTEL 1. Martinhal Sagres, Algarve 2. Martinhal Cascais 3. Atlantis Paradise Island, Bahamas 4. LEGOLAND Feriendorf, Gunzburg, Germany 5. Atlantis The Palm, Dubai

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BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY INTERNATIONAL DESTINATION: Fiji

Wherever Awards

PHOTO: © NOBLIGE | DREAMSTIME.COM

2018 BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY Best Family-Friendly FREQUENT-STAY PROGRAM Vacation Company 1. Radisson Rewards

2. Loews First Delta Vacations

3. IHG Rewards Club 4. Marriott Rewards 5. Hilton Honors

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY ALL-INCLUSIVE HOTEL 1. Paradisus Playa del Carmen La Esmerelda, Mexico 2. Beaches Turks & Caicos Resort Villages & Spa 3. Nickelodeon Hotels & Resorts Punta Cana, Dominican Republic 4. Club Med Pragelato Vialattea, Italy 5. Tortuga Lodge & Gardens, Costa Rica BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY PET HOTEL 1. Westin Hotels & Resorts 2. Loews Hotels 3. Kimpton Boutique Hotels + Restaurants 4. InterContinental Hotels & Resorts 5. Sheraton Hotels BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTEL KIDS CLUB 1. Atlantis Paradise Island, Bahamas 2. The Broadmoor, Colorado Springs, Colorado 3. Club Med, Sandpiper Bay, Florida 4. Sea Island, Georgia 5. Beaches, Turks & Caicos BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY VACATION COMPANY 1. Delta Vacations 2. United Vacations 3. SAA Vacations 4. American Airlines Vacations 5. Holiday Inn Vacation Club

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SEPTEMBER 2018

is the first-ever Best Family-Friendly Travel Provider of the Year. If you’re taking to the high seas with the whole clan, consider Royal Caribbean, Best Family-Friendly Cruise Line, or Silversea Cruises, Best Family-Friendly MultiGen Cruise Line. When it comes to paying for it all or collecting points on everyday purchases to cash in for your family travel, our readers think these two credit cards are tops: Blue Cash Preferred Card from American Express, Best FamilyFriendly Credit Card; and Marriott Rewards Card from Chase, Best Family-Friendly Credit Card Rewards Program. And where to go? For an exotic family getaway, Fiji was named Best Family-Friendly International Destination. A bit closer to home, it’s no surprise Orlando reigns supreme as Best Family-Friendly Domestic Destination. Find fun in the sun with the fam in the Bahamas, Best Family-Friendly Caribbean Island. Bring the parents, grandparents, kids and siblings to Ireland, Best Family-Friendly MultiGen Destination of the Year. Find family thrills at LEGOLAND California Theme Park in Carlsbad, Best Family-Friendly Amusement Park, and Aquatica by SeaWorld, Best FamilyFriendly Waterpark. Here’s to the kid-tested, parent-approved winners of the first-ever Wherever Awards!

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY DOMESTIC DESTINATION: Orlando PHOTO: © PFONG001 | DREAMSTIME .COM

special section |

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY DOMESTIC TOUR COMPANY:

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY MULTIGEN CRUISE LINE:

Adventures by Disney

Silversea Cruises

PHOTO: © DISNEY

PHOTO: © ATGIMAGES | DREAMSTIME.COM

Wherever Awards 2018 Best Family-Friendly BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY DOMESTIC TOUR Company COMPANY Vacation BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY CRUISE LINE: Royal Caribbean PHOTO: © ROYAL CARIBBEAN

1. Adventures by Disney

Delta 2. Globus Vacations

3. REI Adventures 4. Trafalgar 5. Intrepid Travel

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY INTERNATIONAL TOUR COMPANY 1. Thomson Family Adventures 2. Abercrombie & Kent 3. Classic Journeys 4. Lindblad Expeditions 5. Austin Adventures BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY CRUISE LINE 1. Royal Caribbean 2. Holland America Line 3. Viking Ocean Cruises 4. Princess Cruises 5. Celebrity Cruises BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY MULTIGEN CRUISE LINE 1. Silversea Cruises 2. Regent Seven Seas 3. Viking Ocean Cruises 4. Azamara Club Cruises 5. Royal Caribbean BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY CREDIT CARD 1. Blue Cash Preferred Card from American Express 2. Chase Sapphire Preferred Credit Card 3. Alaska Airlines Visa Credit Card 4. United MileagePlus Explorer Card from Chase 5. Citi / AAdvantage MasterCard

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BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY DOMESTIC DESTINATION 1. Orlando 2. California 3. Philadelphia 4. Washington, D.C. 5. Texas

Wherever Awards 2018 Best Family-Friendly BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY CREDIT CARD REWARDS PROGRAM Vacation Company 1. Marriott Rewards Card from Chase

2. Royal Caribbean Bank of America Delta Vacations

Visa 3. Delta SkyMiles American Express 4. Chase Sapphire Preferred 5. The Ritz-Carlton Card from Chase BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY INTERNATIONAL DESTINATION 1. Fiji 2. Africa 3. Italy 4. London 5. Hawai’i

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY AMUSEMENT PARK: LEGOLAND California, Carlsbad PHOTO: © ENRIQUE GOMEZ | DREAMSTIME.COM

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY CARIBBEAN ISLAND 1. Bahamas 2. Grand Cayman 3. Curaçao 4. Aruba 5. St. Lucia BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY MULTIGENERATIONAL DESTINATION OF THE YEAR 1. Ireland 2. South Africa 3. Italy 4. Patagonia 5. Mexico

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY AMUSEMENT PARK 1. LEGOLAND California Theme Park, Carlsbad 2. Magic Kingdom, Disney World, Orlando 3. Sesame Place, Langhorne, Pennsylvania 4. Cedar Point, Sandusky, Ohio 5. Six Flags Fiesta Texas, San Antonio

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY WATERPARK 1. Aquatica by SeaWorld 2. LEGOLAND Water Park, Winter Haven, Florida 3. Great Wolf Lodge 4. Zoombezi Bay, Columbus, Ohio 5. Disney’s Blizzard Beach, Orlando

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

VOLVO OVERSEAS DELIVERY Are you contemplating purchasing a new Volvo?

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Now you can custom build your car and choose to pick it up in Gothenburg, Sweden … then take a vacation, on Volvo. Your Overseas Delivery (OSD) experience begins when you order your new Volvo. Most OSD vehicles receive a discount of 2–4% off base US MSRP and no OSD customer pays a destination charge — ever! In addition to the cost savings, certain colors and single options are exclusive to OSD vehicles. Once you’ve ordered your dream Volvo, Overseas Delivery customers receive an order confirmation package. Next, contact our Corporate Travel Concierge who will help you plan and make suggestions for your once-in-alifetime vacation.

• 2 complimentary round-trip premium-economy fares via our preferred airline, SAS • 1 complimentary hotel night at The Hotel Post located in Downtown Gothenburg • Private transfers from airport and hotel

• Bring your car to a Volvo Drop-off facility — and we home ship to your local Volvo Retailer To begin your Overseas Delivery experience Contact your authorized Volvo Retailer, visit www.volvocars.com/us/OSD or call Overseas Delivery Customer Care at 1-800-631-1667. Bon Voyage.

• Lunch and Factory Tour; Also visit our Brand Experience Center and our Volvo Museum • 15 days European Insurance and Registration to travel with your new Volvo and see the sights at your own time and pace

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY WATERPARK: Aquatica by SeaWorld PHOTO: © AQUATICA BY SEAWORLD

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY RENTAL CAR COMPANY 1. Avis 2. Hertz 3. National Car Rental 4. Enterprise 5. Budget

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 1. Singapore Changi Airport 2. Munich Airport 3. Hamad International Airport, Doha 4. Incheon Airport 5. Frankfurt am Main Airport

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY TRAVEL PROVIDER OF THE YEAR 1. Lindblad Expeditions 2. Austin-Lehman Adventures 3. REI Adventures 4. Thomson Family Adventures 5. Ecoventure Family Cruises

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY AIRPORT DINING 1. Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport 2. Chicago O’Hare International Airport 3. Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport 4. George Bush Intercontinental Airport, Houston 5. Dubai International Airport

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY DOMESTIC AIRPORT 1. Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport 2. Denver International Airport 3. San Francisco International Airport 4. Chicago O’Hare International Airport 5. Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY AIRPORT SHOPPING 1. Dubai International Airport 2. Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport 3. Amsterdam Schiphol Airport 4. Hamad International Airport, Doha 5. Singapore Changi Airport

YOUR EXPERIENCE BEGINS IN EUROPE VOLVO OVERSEAS DELIVERY Personalize the Volvo of your choice and receive two round-trip plane tickets and a hotel stay in Volvo’s hometown of Gothenburg, Sweden. Named Best Overseas Delivery Program two years in a row, this extraordinary journey is included in the price of your Volvo. Pick up your car from the country that inspired its design and set off on an unforgettable adventure. The land of Volvo, and beyond, is yours to explore.

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2018 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

AIRLINE BEST

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HOTEL BEST

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HOTEL BEST BY LOCATION Best Hotel in . . . Asia____________________________________________________________________________ Europe_________________________________________________________________________ South Korea___________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_______________________________________________________________ The United States _____________________________________________________________ Best Hotel Chain in . . . Asia____________________________________________________________________________ Europe_________________________________________________________________________ Latin America__________________________________________________________________ Mexico_________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_______________________________________________________________

OTHER BEST Overseas Delivery Program _______________________________________________________ Rental Car Company_______________________________________________________________ Tourism Destination_______________________________________________________________ MICE City ___________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) WiFi Service_________________________________________________________________________ Noise-Canceling Headset Brand___________________________________________________ Luggage Brand_____________________________________________________________________ Ride Share__________________________________________________________________________ Hotel App___________________________________________________________________________ Airline App__________________________________________________________________________ Credit Cards Best Overall Credit Card___________________________________________________________ Best Small-Business Credit Card __________________________________________________ Best Credit Card Special Events ___________________________________________________ Credit Card Rewards Program_____________________________________________________ Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card ________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card_________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card_______________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO: Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot Name Street Address City Home Phone

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The Traveling Family

BY THE SEA:

Family enjoying the beach at Martinhal Beach Resort & Hotel

As we celebrate the inaugural winners of the 2018 Wherever Awards and the first anniversary of whereverfamily.com, here’s a look at the web publication’s content on some of the winning brands.

HOTEL BRANDS CATERING TO KIDS

panions, and certain properties extend the offer further with toys and activities added.

You’re sure to already have your own favorite luxury hotel brands — maybe there’s one that has just the right amenities or another you can always rely on for an excellent staff, no matter where you are in the world. While you may love these brands for your own reasons, they could also offer some perks for your kids. Are you taking full advantage of these perks as more and more hotel brands begin catering to younger jetsetters?

THE RITZ-CARLTON The Ritz Kids experience caters to children 4–12 and focuses on nature and the environment. Special activities are meant to inspire curiosity and environmental responsibility in young learners and employ the four pillars of water, land, environmental responsibility and culture. Through the program, kids can enjoy a full schedule of activities, including meals as needed.

WESTIN HOTELS & RESORTS A limited but incredibly cool kid-friendly amenity is the in-room tents at Westin Hotels & Resorts. Suite-staying parents can request a cute, hipsteresque tent for their pint-sized traveling com-

MARTINHAL BEACH RESORT & HOTEL IN PORTUGAL’S ALGARVE

The 5-star Martinhal Beach Resort & Hotel, in Portugal’s sunny Algarve, has something for every

member of the family to love. For teens there’s the half-mile crescent of sandy beach directly below, with kayaks and paddleboards. For younger kids there’s a club, where they can join lively activities, and well-equipped play areas adjacent to all the places their parents are likely to linger over dinner or a glass of Alentejo wine. For parents there is fine dining, a serene spa and plenty of professionals on hand to amuse the children while mom and dad luxuriate. For everyone there’s the excitement of being in an exotic foreign destination on a beautiful coast that enjoys year-round sunny weather in a resort where everyone speaks English. Everything at Martinhal is designed with families in mind, whether it’s a couple looking for a quiet escape with their child or a multigenerational clan on vacation.

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special section | PLAY TIME:

Japanese manga banners in front of the Kanda Shrine in Tokyo (right), and Ultimate Family Suite aboard Royal Caribbean’s Symphony of the Seas (bottom) PHOTOS: © VALERIJ MILANOVIC | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ROYAL CARIBBEAN

The focus is on making life easy for families. The Baby Concierge allows guests to pre-book baby equipment such as safety gates, potty chairs, bottle sterilizers, cribs and baby baths, so traveling with an infant becomes a breeze. Babysitting is always available, and the shop in the Village Square stocks diapers and baby food. At Raposinhos, toddlers can learn facepainting, create colorful crafts, play games and go on treasure hunts. Older kids can print their own T-shirts and make pizza. Teens can hang out in the Blue Room, playing video, board and table games. A nursery gives special attention to babies and toddlers up to age 2. At the Explorers and Blast Club teens can learn to windsurf and go on bike tours or dolphin-watching trips. At the Sports Academy, older kids can learn — or brush up on — surfing, diving, tennis or soccer, all taught by experienced instructors. In the summer there are evening activities for all ages while parents enjoy a leisurely dinner. While large double rooms serve couples well, families at Martinhal can choose from garden apartments or entire houses surrounded by gardens. Like all buildings at Martinhal, these are low buildings set into the natural landscape, many with sea views. Bright and airy rooms boast custom-designed furniture and décor in local woods, cork, stone, woven palm and natural-fiber upholstery. This not only reduces the resort’s carbon footprint but also gives it an organic feel. There are several swimming pools, sports courts and other facilities spread over a large area among preserved local trees and plants. Set into Europe’s southwesternmost tip, Martinhal Beach Resort & Hotel is designed to fit organically into the landscape overlooking the sea.

ADVENTURES BY DISNEY DELIGHTS MANGA-OBSESSED KIDS

Do you have a young anime or manga fan in your household? In case you’re not sure, the terms refer to Japanese animated films and graphic novels, respectively, and they are becoming so popular in the United States, bookstores are dedicating entire sections of their inventory to the genre, and movies are becoming increasingly available on streaming video services.

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This cultural phenomenon provides good news for tourism in Japan, boosting interest to the destination among young American travelers. Of course, Japan offers an entire menu of other, more traditional attractions. Keeping pace with this trend, Adventures by Disney adds Japan to its roster of vacation options for 2019 with a 10-night itinerary that includes visits to Kyoto, Osaka, Takayama, Hakone and Tokyo. Best of all, the itinerary includes family-friendly, hands-on activities — like riding in a rickshaw, cycling and even cooking — that go beyond the typical sightseeing tours. The new itinerary is just one of Adventures by Disney’s menu of offerings in 2019, which also include a revamped Alberta, Canada, itinerary featuring cowboy-style rope wrangling and exploring Banff National Park and Lake Louise. The company is already accepting bookings for all 2019 vacations.

ROYAL CARIBBEAN’S NEWEST SHIP WILL DELIGHT FAMILIES

Royal Caribbean has been in the forefront of family cruising for decades, but the new Symphony of the Seas takes it to the next level, according to Florida-based travel specialist Cruises-N-More. Highlights of the new ship, which embarked on its inaugural voyage in April, offer over-the-top entertainment, culinary adventures and amenities for families of all ages.

The largest and newest ship in the Royal Caribbean fleet, Symphony of the Seas can carry a whopping 5,518 passengers and is ramping up the fun with the line’s first glow-in-the-dark laser tag game called Battle for Planet Z, as well as an Escape the Rubicon game, challenging players to solve a collection of puzzles from an escape room built in the shape of a submarine. Meanwhile, water slide fans can test their mettle on the Ultimate Abyss, the tallest slide at sea. Family accommodations also took a leap forward with a two-level, 1,346-square-foot Ultimate Family Suite tricked out with plenty of kid-friendly bells and whistles. Picture an in-room slide, a private cinema with an 85-inch HD TV, a floor-to-ceiling LEGO wall, a 212-square-foot balcony complete with table

special section | EMERALD ISLE:

Sailboats in Kinsale Harbour (top), and The Gap of Dunloe (bottom) PHOTOS: © MATTHEW RAGEN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © STEFANO VALERI | DREAMSTIME.COM

Western Caribbean cruises will call on Perfect Day at CocoCay, Royal Caribbean’s new destination in the Bahamas.

SOUTHWEST IRELAND WITH KIDS

Ireland may be a small island, but it packs quite a punch for travelers. With bustling and historic cities, wide-open countryside and rugged beaches, Ireland is a great locale for families of all ages. For those traveling with the kids this summer, explore Southwest Ireland like a pro with this must-hit list.

tennis and a full-sized whirlpool, and you get the idea. Did we mention the suite also has bedrooms — two, in fact — as well as a dedicated attendant called a Royal Genie? Since kids are notoriously picky eaters, the ship doesn’t neglect the culinary part of the family cruise experience. New culinary offerings include Playmakers Sports Bar & Arcade on the Boardwalk for burgers and wings, tacos and burritos at El Loco Fresh and a dizzying assortment of candy and ice cream at Sugar Beach.

Meanwhile, Mom and Dad, along with kids old enough to appreciate fine dining, can tuck into lobster rolls, freshly shucked oysters, crab claws and more at Hooked Seafood, an upscale eatery in the Solarium at the top of the ship. Symphony of the Seas, currently sailing in the Mediterranean on seven-night cruises out of Barcelona, will make Miami its year-round home port starting Nov. 10, making it the first new Oasis Class ship to sail from Royal Caribbean’s new Terminal A. The seven-night Eastern and

SURF AND SAIL One aspect of Ireland that tends to get overlooked is the country’s coastline. Head to Kinsale Harbour, one of the most famous historic harbors in Europe, and take the kids out for a sailing lesson. The waters are known to be steady and ideal for beginners. Pick a beach, any beach, and picnic with the family, jump in the water and enjoy a classic summer activity in a new way. EXPLORE SEA LIFE Adventure travelers and active locals know Southwest Ireland to be a top destination for caving and sea exploration, but there is a kid-sized marine world to explore. Get out and observe varied species of dolphins, whales and sea life from a rented boat or cruise. The kids may be tempted to jump in and swim with the wildlife in their natural habitat.

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special section | Conservation, and head out on a hike. Watch for rare local red deer and feel transported to another realm with views of dreamy forests and seemingly untouched lakes. Rent a car and roll from town to town on a mini road trip, perfect for the kids’ attention spans and for maximizing your time in Southwest Ireland.

LEGOLAND BEEFS UP ACCESSIBILITY Since LEGOLAND’s Florida property opened in 2011, the theme park has been exceptionally accessible and accommodating for children with special needs, both physical and cognitive. Already featuring a range of offerings catering to all kids, LEGOLAND announced an expansion of its efforts for families traveling with special needs.

BEFORE YOUR VISIT Take advantage of the park’s pre-arrival services. Check out the Special Situations section under Planning Your Visit on the site and read through the Guide for Guests with Disabilities and learn all about the park’s guest services. Get to know the park map and feel more confident navigating the various guest services, rides and important concession stands, including first aid and lost and found, before your trip. Read up on the best places to stay and visit for your family, from the water park and accessibility features to live shows and seasonal events. Does your family have dietary restrictions and allergies to consider? No problem. Read through the extensive list of dining options and locations based on your dairy-free, soy-free, tree nut-free, egg-free, glutenfree diets. Search by vegan and vegetarian options and come prepared, or download and print the document to take with you.

ACCOMMODATIONS:

LEGOLAND's quiet room for guests with autism who may have difficulty waiting in line (top), and the LEGO NINJAGO ride providing wheelchair accessibility (bottom) PHOTOS: © LEGOLAND

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ROAM THE COUNTRYSIDE When you picture Ireland, you may see rolling green hills, castles and incredible natural beauty — you’re right. Book a tour and explore with a local expert and enjoy your freedom to roam, or head to the famous pass through The Gap of Dunloe. Walk along mountain ranges or rent bikes and explore local paths through Macgillycuddy’s Reeks. The path extends seven miles through beautiful varied terrain. Bring the kids to Killarney National Park, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and Special Area of

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AT THE PARK If you ever need assistance while at the park, head to guest services. Located near the entrance and exit of both parks, the well-trained staff can assist your family with any last-minute issues and questions. While at Guest Services, families with limited mobility may want to opt for a Hero Pass at no additional cost. Available for guests in wheelchairs or unable to wait on line for an extended period, the pass allows the guest expedited access with the help of LEGOLAND staff. Don’t forget about all of the extra and incredibly helpful services available on site, such as specifically designed spaces including Baby Care facilities, first-aid rooms and sensory-sensitive quiet rooms, complete with noise-cancelling headphones, weighted comfort blankets and plush toys for guests who may need a break.

BUSINESS destinations

KYOTO

e prepar d n a re ur lens or whe t Set yo c a f w e big wo es aliv m for a o c c i g ish ma Scott ye. of Sk e l s I on the

SANTA FE

SHANGHAI

MEDELLÍN

LEISURE destinations

LONDON

ISLE OF SKYE

TAHITIAN ISLANDS

GREEK ISLES

destination one | KYOTO

Perfect Harmony Kyoto looks both forward and backward with ease. BY RICHARD NEWTON OLD AND NEW: (Left to right) Geisha, Kyoto tower, Ryōan-ji Temple, and view of Kyoto from Kyoto Tower PHOTOS: © JONASANPOSTUDIO | DREAMSTIME.COM, © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME.COM, © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME .COM, © KENG PO LEUNG | DREAMSTIME.COM

THERE ARE TWO JAPANS. We can visualize them both: the neon-lit, concrete and asphalt, high-tech, ultra-modern nation; and the land of geishas, tea ceremonies, Zen gardens and minimalist interiors. How far apart are these two Japans? You could say they are separated by more than 70 years. The Japanese economic miracle since World War II propelled the country into the 21st century. Most of the major cities have radically transformed, often rising from bombedout ruins. But one city, founded in 794 and for

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many centuries the imperial capital, survived unscathed and has remained largely preserved: Kyoto. In that respect, the two Japans are separated by the 35 miles between downtown Osaka and Kyoto’s historical Gion district. In fact, the demarcation is not as clear as that. Despite the architectural and cultural trappings of the past that form the popular view of Kyoto, both ancient and modern coexist within the city, often overlapping. The two Japans are so integrated here that with just a few strides or the merest flick of your gaze,

COMING AND GOING

All U.S. citizens require a passport valid for the duration of the visit to Japan and an onward/return ticket. U.S. citizens are eligible for visafree entry on stays of up to 90 days. Visa-free entry does not permit you to work in Japan, and you cannot change to another visa status during your stay. If in doubt, contact the Japanese Embassy before embarking on your visit.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE Japanese

you can move from one to the other. Kyoto has long been a major center of higher education and is home to some of Japan’s (and the world’s) top-ranking universities. Academic excellence is one of the driving forces of Kyoto’s advance into the future, with university research projects often spinning off to create commercial companies and sometimes entire industries. For instance, under the auspices of Innovation Hub Kyoto, a facility founded in 2017, medical researchers pioneer new advances in regenerative medicine. Harnessing local expertise and providing the funds to enable young innovators to compete on the global stage, the facility aims to establish Kyoto as the Silicon Valley of regenerative medicine. It’s a project that could potentially change all of our lives. Many of us have already had our lives changed by a Kyoto-based company. In the 19th century, a local company was founded to make traditional hanafuda playing cards. The company’s name translated as “leave luck to heaven.” In the 1950s, it began to expand into new areas, including the manufacture of laser shooting games, and was quick to embrace the possibilities of electronic gaming in the 1970s. It continues to dominate that sector. That modest card manufacturer is now one of the most recognizable brands on the planet: Nintendo. It continues to be based in Kyoto, in Minami-ku — South Ward — one of the city’s 11 districts. Other innovative companies based in Kyoto include GLM, a manufacturer of electric sports cars; Kyocera (which makes electronic components); and Omron (which makes medical equipment). These companies, and many others in the city, are modern manifestations of a

LODGING HOSHINOYA KYOTO Just 15 minutes by riverboat shuttle from downtown, yet the hilly woodland setting beside the Oi River is authentically rural. Serene, traditional rooms. 11-2 Arashiyama Genrokuzan-cho, Nishikyo-ku $$$$ THE RITZ-CARLTON, KYOTO This new build opened in 2014 is already established as one of the best hotels in

Japan, boasting a sophisticated blend of traditional and modern architecture and décor. Kamogawa Nijo-Ohashi Hotori, Nakagyo-ku $$$$ RYOKAN YOSHIDA-SANSO A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn. This one is practically a palace; it was the residence of Emperor Akihito’s uncle. Excellent location close to many attractions. 59-1 Yoshida Shimo-ojicho, Sakyo-ku $$$$

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DINING KIKUNOI Enjoy incredible local cuisine in a refined setting. Deserving of its three Michelin stars, Kikunoi’s set menu comprises at least 10 courses. Reservations essential. 459 Shimokawara-cho, Higashiyama-ku $$$$ YAMAMOTOMENZO There’s usually a line at this noodle bar par excellence — always a good sign. Menus in English are available. 34 Okazaki Minamigosho-cho, Sokyo-ku $$ YONEMURA Located in Gion, this fusion restaurant melds a Japanese grounding with European and Indian influences. Counter seating enables diners to watch the chefs at work. 481-1 Kiyoi-cho, Higashiyama-ku $$$$

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traditional Japanese ethic: monozukuri, which translates as “thing making.” Here monozukuri has been repurposed into what is collectively referred to as “the wisdom industry,” combining old philosophies with new technologies. In the process, Japan’s tendency for insularity has been set aside. Foreign participation in Kyoto’s wisdom industry is actively encouraged, both on the academic side and in the entrepreneurial realization of new products and concepts. The Kyoto Chamber of Commerce and Industry provides advice to foreign nationals wishing to work or invest in the city. If you arrive by train at the futuristic Kyoto Station (as the majority of visitors do, usually from Tokyo or Osaka), there is little sign of the quaint, traditional city you were expecting. This is modern Japan in all its gaudy, sci-fi glory. Step out of the vaulted interior and you’re in no doubt you’re at the heart of a city of 1.4 million people. The Kyoto Tower — an architectural cousin of Seattle’s Space Needle — soars above you, presiding over busy streets. A short distance to the north, in Gion District, it all changes, and your preconceptions are realized. Here, ramshackle wooden buildings fringe paved alleys. There are vistas that appear little changed in centuries. That impression is compounded if you’re lucky enough to see a geisha walking to or from work in her white makeup, hair piled and pinned, garbed in a silk kimono and wooden shoes. Along the alleys she looks perfectly in place, but at intersections she must mingle with everyone else at the crosswalks, waiting for the green light. In those moments, as so often in this beguiling city, the two Japans are one.

WAY TO GO: Kyoto Station

JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT +9 Phone code: Country code: 81 City code: 75 Currency: Yen Key industries: Tourism, retail, higher education, medicine, IT, nanotechnology

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CHECKING IN WITH TOMOKO NAKAMURA Owner, Ryokan Yoshida-Sanso

What opportunities does Kyoto offer Americans? Many Americans have already experienced Japanese culture at home. They will be familiar with some of the foods, with anime and manga and with many of our traditions. In Kyoto visitors can participate in the culture and learn many new things about it. They can study Zen, take part in calligraphy, learn the customs of Zen gardening, discover ceramics and pottery, and take part in a tea ceremony. They will not just see Japanese culture in Kyoto, they will be part of it. What cultural differences should visitors be aware of when visiting Kyoto? There are many small cultural formalities they might not be familiar with. For instance, it is important to take your shoes off when entering a house. In some houses, slippers are provided. But always make sure your socks are clean and without holes. On visiting the bathroom, you will often switch to a separate pair of slippers for hygiene reasons. How does Kyoto differ from other cities in Japan? Other cities lost their heritage, but in Kyoto it is preserved. The pace of life is slower and more relaxed. For the Japanese, Kyoto is a most important city. It is what and who we are. What are the key developments to look for in the future? For me, Kyoto’s future is also its past. Other Japanese cities are developing every year, so much and so quickly that soon they can’t be recognized. In Kyoto we must save and protect what we have. It is important for us as a people to preserve such things as our traditional architecture, art and craft. My hope is Kyoto will develop without changing the things that make it special.

Which local attractions do you recommend? There are many more things to see and do here than can be experienced in one lifetime. Kyoto has beautiful, quiet surroundings, and I especially recommend taking a walk in the mountains on the east side of the city, particularly Yoshida-yama and Ginkaku-ji (the Silver Pavilion). The Philosopher’s Path in Higashiyama district is a wonderful place for contemplation and is at its most beautiful in spring when the cherry blossoms are out. The most popular temples and shrines are always worth visiting, even though they can be busy. But we also have many other temples and shrines where not many people go, and you can enjoy them in peace.

SEEKING SERENITY:

INFO TO GO

Most visitors arrive at Kansai International Airport, situated on an island in Osaka Bay, 60 miles by road from downtown Kyoto. The fastest transfer is by Japan Railways Haruka express train; the journey takes about 75 minutes. From Tokyo’s Narita International Airport catch the Airport Express train to Tokyo Station and then switch to the Shinkansen — bullet train — for the journey west to Kyoto. The total journey time should be around four hours.

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DIVERSIONS

Prepare to visit temples and shrines. With more than a thousand of them in Kyoto, they can’t be avoided, and many are must-see attractions. Chief among them — and probably the most photographed spot in Kyoto — is Fushimi Inari-taisha, a mountainside complex of shrines. Anticipate some walking; the highlight of the complex is a 2.5-mile trail lined with some 10,000 vermillionpainted torii (wooden gates). The gates are the headline feature, breathtaking in design and sheer number. But also look out for hundreds of fox statues along the way. Inari is dedicated to the gods of both rice and business, and the fox is considered their messenger. A visit here is not just a tourist excursion, it’s an auspicious pilgrimage for anyone seeking to do business in Kyoto. The gods of rice are also the gods of one of the most popular by-products of rice, saké (rice wine). Fushimi, Kyoto’s saké district, houses the majority of the city’s 46 saké breweries. The waterways lacing the district provide the breweries with one of their key ingredients: soft water. In huge vats in picturesque wooden buildings, water and fermented rice combine to make the potent drink (which can have an alcohol content of up to 20 percent). The most famous brewery, Gekkeikan, opens to visitors every day 9:30 a.m.–4.30 p.m. The tour includes free tastings, so it’s perhaps best not to schedule any business meetings immediately after your visit. Other unmissable sacred sites include Kinkaku-ji, also known as the Golden Pavilion, an achingly beautiful temple covered in gold leaf seemingly floating on its own reflection within a placid pond. The temple has been rebuilt more than once since it was originally constructed in 1397, most recently in 1955 following a fire. Another outstandingly photogenic temple is Kiyomizu-dera,

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where the wooden main hall, constructed on a scaffold, provides views of the city and the surrounding forested hills. Kyoto Imperial Palace harks back to the city’s long tenure as the capital of Japan. In common with many historical sites in Kyoto, you can only tour the exteriors of this complex of buildings; the interiors are too fragile to accommodate the volume of visitors. Kyoto is renowned for its Zen gardens, the most famous of which is Ryōan-ji, in which an expanse of gravel carefully raked around several rocks creates a serene backdrop for quiet contemplation. Gion district is the living manifestation of historical Kyoto. With its preserved streets and ancient teahouses, it’s the part of the city that most visitors keep coming back to throughout their stay; there’s always something new (or, more accurately, old) to discover here.

MOMENTS OF ZEN: Kiyomizu-dera Temple (top), and Kinkaku-ji (bottom) PHOTOS: © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME .COM, © CHECCO | DREAMSTIME.COM

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

ROYAL SUITE

A New Standard in Luxury Lotte Hotel Seoul's Executive Tower opens, bringing hospitality to new heights. LOTTE HOTEL SEOUL DEBUTED THE EXECUTIVE TOWER BUILDING THIS MONTH, offering a new standard in premium luxury hotels. The Executive Tower boasts 278 guestrooms and the Michelin two-starred Pierre Gagnaire a Seoul, a modern French restaurant. The GA Group, a world-renowned interior design firm that worked on Four Seasons Casablanca and Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam, led the work on Executive Tower. The design is full of Korean beauty, yet remains simple and classic. Rooms boast Beautyrest The One mattresses to ensure a comfortable stay, and a new-concept clothing management device, Styler, in suite rooms. The Royal Suite, the largest of its kind in Korea, lives up to its name, featuring Beautyrest Black, the largest bed available in Korea and one of the most premium mattresses made. A C. Bechstein grand piano is also a highlight, as well as the private fitness area with equipment from Italian brand TechnoGym.

EXECUTIVE TOWER Wrap yourself in relaxation the minute you enter the Executive Tower with its Walk in the Woods signature scent. The notes of citrus green, freesia floral and woody musk refresh and soothe, and blend with a balance of refreshing fruit and aromatic flowers scents. In room, amenities are crafted by the hotelier collection of Diptyque, using oils and essences of citrus, green mandarin, cashmere and cumin. The hair care products and cleansing gel uplift with citrus and orange blossom hints.

Executive Tower features the largest club lounge in Korea. Here, guests privately check-in at Sky Lobby. Meeting rooms, business services and Packing & Unpacking services are also available. All suites have a Valet Box, so there’s no need to ask staff for laundry service. Le Salon is an exclusive luxury lounge for Executive Lounge guests. Breakfast, light snacks, afternoon tea and happy hour are served, and the Live Station boasts bartenders, baristas and a chef at your service. Korea’s only restaurant by Pierre Gagnaire returns at Lotte Hotel Seoul, introducing a new menu with reasonable prices to offer customers more opportunities to enjoy classic French cuisine in the Korean city. Pierre’s Bar offers a stunning nighttime view and 10 new signature cocktails. The French boutique-style space also boasts a wide selection of single-malt whiskeys. The PG Bar Membership’s two tiers, Gold and Platinum, entitle members to select drinks dependent on the level. Additional benefits include discounts on snack dishes and free Keeping Box service. A luxury experience awaits. Visit lottehotel.com for more information.

stateside | SANTA FE

Era of Luxury Santa Fe meets the demands of modern times amid its rich cultural heritage. BY EUGENIA LAZARIS VISUAL ARTS:

(Left to right) Aritst's renderings of Bishop's Lodge Resort and Spa and Sky Fire restaurant, burro sculpture downtown, and colorful columns in the downtown plaza PHOTOS: © BISHOP’S LODGE RESORT AND SPA, © BONITA CHESHIER | DREAMSTIME.COM, © SANDY MARAK | DREAMSTIME.COM

THE ‘‘CITY DIFFERENT’’ CAN BE DECEIVING. With a laid-back attitude and roots grounded in art and nature, Santa Fe appears unassuming but quickly proves to be anything but. Boasting a bustling art scene, an intensely rich cultural heritage and a stunning natural landscape, the city appeals to the most discerning tastes of the pickiest traveler. Bishop’s Lodge Resort and Spa, located just minutes from downtown, raises the local bar for luxury and elegance. The resort, dating back to the 1860s, when it was a private retreat for Archbishop Jean-Baptiste Lamy, is undergoing an $82 million transformation into a high-end dude ranch-style resort that takes full advantage of the natural beauty of the area and caters to guests’ every need. Auberge Resort Collection, which manages 19 world-class properties, will supervise the 312-acre property. Designed by architect Nunzio Desantis in conjunction with lead developer Richard Holland, Bishop’s Lodge is expected to take its place as

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one of the top luxury resorts in the world. The renovated property, expected to open by spring 2019, will consist of 92 guestrooms, 12 residences (or casitas) and three glamping tents. In addition to the usual amenities — like spa treatments, pool and fitness studio — guests can experience hiking and mountain biking trails as well as horseback riding instruction and trail riding through the Santa Fe National Forest bordering the property. A manmade trout habitat fed by a natural spring offers on-site flyfishing. The trout fishing experience “will enable someone who has never fly-fished before to whet their appetite before possibly moving on to fish in some of the private streams and waters that our guests will have access [to],” said John Volponi, general manager and vice president, Bishop’s Lodge. The resort’s main restaurant, Sky Fire, will feature a menu designed by conceptual chef Dean Fearing, the “father of Southwestern cuisine.” An art and artist-in-residence program will add to the unique charm of the property. Guests will have the opportunity to observe and learn from various artists who will take turns residing at the lodge to teach and showcase their work. The property’s unique Bunk House residence will include 12 separate bedrooms and a community living room area. This log cabin-style building may not follow the resort’s traditional Santa Fe style of architecture but will make an ideal destination for corporate retreats. An abundance of event and meeting space will include a 3,000-square-foot indoor venue (dividable into three separate

spaces) and a 4,500-square-foot outdoor space complete with a stage. “What makes Bishop’s Lodge unique,” said Volponi, “is that it is five minutes from downtown Santa Fe, so guests will have access to all the wonderful amenities of Santa Fe, then five minutes later they can be in a different world.” Santa Fe Municipal Airport will host an AOPA Fly-In Sept. 14–15. This event offers a way to bring the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association, the world’s largest aviation community, directly to places where members live and can fly to. The fly-in will consist of seminars, barbecues, exhibits and a pilot town hall. The event — expected to have a local economic impact of $680,000 — will focus on protecting the freedom to fly. Santa Fe is well-known for its artistic community and commitment to supporting the arts. The local art market ranks third in the country, so it is no surprise visitors to the city flock to its numerous museums and galleries. SITE is a visionary and innovative contemporary art museum in downtown Santa Fe in the middle of its six-year SITElines program. It presents a

series of connecting biennial exhibits focusing on “new perspectives on art from the Americas.” The current exhibition, Casa Tomada, opened in August and running until Jan. 6, 2019, features the works of 23 artists representing eight countries. The participating artist panel includes Melissa Cody, a seventh-generation weaver of Diné (Navajo) heritage; painter Victor Estrada; and Fernanda Laguna, a native of Buenos Aires who works with cardboard and paper mediums. The theme of the exhibit, translated as “House Taken Over,” explores the concepts of property, boundaries and belonging. When it comes to transportation options for visitors, New Mexico Black Car fills a growing demand in the city. Where there was once virtually no ground transportation available, this recently formed cab company provides reliable options for visitors arriving at the local municipal airport in the form of Mercedes-Benz vehicles operated by professional drivers. Santa Fe has long been a sought-after location for business and tourism, but the city’s current improvements help to secure its place in the ranks of luxury destinations.

SCENIC DRIVES

Take advantage of your time in New Mexico with a relaxing drive along the High Road to Taos. Head north out of Santa Fe along US-84/US-285 toward Pojoaque and exit at Nambe Road. From there, this 67-mile scenic byway heads northeast on a zigzag twist through quaint towns, beautiful forest and some of the most impressive churches in New Mexico before arriving at Ranchos de Taos. There it meets with US-68 to bring you back to Santa Fe via Española. Give yourself several hours to enjoy the sights. The Jemez Mountain Trail offers a great drive whether you’ve got a few hours or a whole day. The journey takes you past stunning rock formations and Indian ruins for a glimpse into the cultural history of New Mexico. From Santa Fe head north on US-84 until you reach the 502 at Pojoaque and head west toward Los Alamos. After about 10 miles, take New Mexico State Route 4 toward the Bandelier National Monument/ White Rock and enjoy the beautiful scenery through the rugged wilderness. When you reach US-550, you can either continue north toward Cuba to ride out the trail in its 163-mile entirety or head south toward the capital city of Albuquerque.

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9–5 | SHANGHAI

Open for Business Entertain clients in style in versatile, sophisticated Shanghai. BY SHARON KING HOGE OVER THE RIVER:

IN A CITY AS DYNAMIC AS SHANGHAI, the “hot” spots change almost overnight. “Even the internet listings can barely keep up,” says ex-pat Jeanne Lawrence. Nonetheless, there are enduring popular venues. “Because it’s so sophisticated,” says consultant Jennifer Gao, “you tend to go to contemporary Pudong or classic Puxi depending on the nature of your business: banking and commerce are transacted among the contemporary high-rises of Pudong while media and artsy professions favor the classic renovated venues across the river around the Bund.” She explains major business complexes lie around the Lujiazui stop of the Metro line in Pudong. “Within the high-rise office and shopping mall complex of the IFC Center,” she says, “ The Ritz-Carlton touts itself as the venue of choice for distinguished events. Meeting and conference rooms flooded with natural light and enhanced with customized catering and advanced audiovisual equipment are cited in their ‘impeccable service.’ ’’ Occupying floors 79 to 93 of the Shanghai World Financial Center, the Park Hyatt offers dining and meeting “salons.” On the 93rd floor,

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three private dining rooms are oriented for board meetings, with high-speed broadband access and wireless LAN in all public areas and meeting rooms. The International Buffet Breakfast is a good place for an early morning start, while the residential-style Living Room, with dramatic views of the Bund — serving light, sophisticated Chinese and Western dishes — offers a popular setting for afternoon tea. Across Lujiazui Road and near the Shanghai New International Expo Centre, the Pudong Shangri-La offers versatile indoor and outdoor event space equipped with complimentary WiFi, projectors, teleconferencing, simultaneous translation and other state-of-the-art technology. The hotel’s 10 dining venues feature Chinese, Asian and European cuisine in keeping with the district’s cosmopolitan tone. Restaurants around Pudong offer international cuisines in venues where transactions take place over meals. Pricey Li Yuan is recommended for impressive business lunches and dinners, while the Golden Bull serves upscale Vietnamese dishes. Residents acclaim the Italian fare at Isola, with views across to the Pearl Tower from its umbrella tables. When no bookings are available for the quality food and astounding views in the rooftop Revolving Restaurant of the Oriental Pearl Tower, a colorful fallback is the world’s first CocaCola Restaurant, where diverse cuisine complements the in-your-face American flavor. Across the Huangpu River in Puxi, heritage revitalization has converted historic buildings into contemporary hot spots. While the

traditional Yuyung district around the bright red Huxinting pagoda teahouse is colorful, these days it’s a haunt of tourists. Along the Bund colonial and Art Deco buildings, no longer dilapidated and in disrepair, have been restored into cutting-edge, multi-use riverfront restaurants, galleries and cafés. In Three on the Bund, Mercato restaurant features Italian fare by celebrated Michelin-starred chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. A highlight in the former Nissin Shipping Building at Bund 5 is the seventh-floor view from M on the Bund, serving Saturday and Sunday brunches along with afternoon tea. Behind the imposing pillars of Bund 18, a one-time bank headquarters, the Salon de The serves elaborate pastries and savory snacks from Chef Joel Robuchon, while Ginza Onodera features sushi, tempura and other Japanese fare. With décor and cuisine based on the ethnically diverse culture of the southwest province of Yunnan, the Lost Heaven flagship on the Bund proves a perennial favorite with “Silk Road” cocktails and menu choices embellished with truffles abundant in the region. The urban resort PuLi Hotel, centrally located in Puxi, boasts glass walls in a shimmering contemporary lobby overlooking bamboo plantings. It offers four-hour half-day and eighthour full-day meeting packages which include a bespoke lunch,

tea breaks and basic business equipment provided in the Garden Terrace, PHÉNIX room or in the 26th-floor function spaces. Its restaurant serves Michelin-starred cuisine, and the 105-foot-long Long Bar is a “hip” place to meet for tea or cappuccino. The city’s original Four Seasons Hotel in Puxi remains a staple, offering conference planning and teambuilding exercises for events and receptions held in its ballroom and six meeting rooms. The hotel lobby, with wraparound couches and floor-toceiling windows, makes a popular spot for afternoon tea. Another neighborhood in Puxi, trendy Xintiandi features a mix of restaurants and boutiques in the affluent, carefree “New Heaven, New Earth” district off Huaihai Road developed by Vincent Lo. Favored venues among the globe-spanning options are the Refinery, a popular outdoor lunch setting serving beef tataki and lemon cheesecake; Italian fare at Luccio’s; or, alternatively, the pricey fare at Va Bene. Five meeting rooms in The Langham, Shanghai, Xintiandi named for precious gems — the Emerald, Sapphire, Amber, Diamond and Ruby — are equipped with state-of-the-art function and conference spaces. The Cachet Lobby Lounge serves Afternoon Tea with Wedgwood, and a pianist serenades guests in the afternoon.

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HIGH PLACES:

s ai’ h g an Sh ncial a fin rict t n dis ers o t nt cen e gia e thr rs e g tow tchin e e str mor m to fro 80 n n tha tha s e ie r mo stor 0 10 h. hig globaltravelerusa.com

after 5 | MEDELLÍN

Into the Night Medellín knows how to throw a party. BY STEVE JERMANOK

ians lomb o C lize rds, Rea ania p S n like twee are e be ng t a l g hitti d n dinin a p.m. . d9 n d 11 a 8 roun a s lub the c BRIGHT NIGHTS:

Envy Roof Top at The Charlee Hotel (left), and Medellín street art (below) PHOTOS: © ENVY ROOF TOP AT THE CHARLEE HOTEL, © ANTOINE BARTHELEMY | DREAMSTIME.COM

HOME TO VIVID STREET ART, a bounty of sculptures and paintings by Botero, Colombia’s only public transit system (including cable cars) and a burgeoning dining scene, Medellín transformed from Pablo Escobar’s former hangout to one of the safest and most vibrant destinations in South America. It doesn’t hurt that this city of 4 million people sits in a valley surrounded by mountains at an altitude close to a mile high, offering sublime temperatures around 70–80 degrees Fahrenheit year-round. This lends itself well to outdoor cafés and bars, the ideal places to start your night out on the town. Most of the action centers around the more upscale Poblado neighborhood, where the sinuous streets twist up and down the hillside. Order a mojito at one of the tables under the large thatched hut of Fogón de Piedra, the poolside restaurant at the InterContinental Medellin, and glance up at the bowl of peaks surrounding you. Or head over to the 18th floor of The Charlee Hotel and its rooftop bar for wonderful vistas of the city as the sun sets. When hunger beckons, take a quick taxi to OCI.Mde. Chef and owner Laura Londoño honed her craft alongside legendary chef Paul Bocuse in Lyon, France, before making stops in Sydney and Southeast Asia. The result of her education is a tantalizing mix of South American and Asian spices in a festive, informal atmosphere. The tangy tuna tartare, small cubes of freshly cut fish dipped in lime and a

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truffle dressing, is her version of ceviche, while the tender beef short ribs, braised for 12 hours in a soy-based cashew sauce, practically falls off the bone. If you still have room, finish with a cookie taco, filled to the brim with chocolate ice cream, hazelnut cake and meringue. Work off dinner by swaying your hips at one of the many live salsa music venues in Medellín like Son Havana or Tibiri. Colombians love to dance into the wee hours of the morning; and when the band starts to play, any open space becomes a dance floor, even between tables. If you want to boogie around a disco ball, head to Viva, a favorite of the LGBTQ+ crowd, along with Bar Chiquita. Or simply grab a caipirinha with the beautiful people of Burdo in the charming Via Primavera zone of Poblado. Just don’t go to bed early, especially when the nights are this warm.

neighborhoods | LONDON

Hip at Heart Explore the East End culture of London’s Shoreditch district. BY KIMBERLY KROL

COLLECTIONS: Brick Lane Bookshop (left), and artiodactyl skulls with horns and other items at Spitalfields Market (right) PHOTOS: © I WEI HUANG | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ELENA ROSTUNOVA | DREAMSTIME.COM

ENGLAND Shoreditch London

ALL EYES HAVE BEEN ON LONDON this year. The city tops many a traveler’s list of favorite or must-visit destinations, but this year’s splash has at least a little something to do with an American-actress-turned-royal and the fairy-tale romance of Prince Harry and Duchess Meghan. But go beyond the glitzy gates of Kensington Palace and discover a different side of London, especially for repeat visitors. I’d spent months in London, but it wasn’t until my last visit that I explored Shoreditch in more depth. Far removed from its seedy past — this was the territory of Jack the Ripper in the 1800s — and flush from the gentrification that followed the influx of British artists in the 1990s, today’s Shoreditch is a bit more moneyed and boasts some of the city’s finest restaurants and upscale cocktail bars while maintaining touches of its grittier, industrial vibe. Stay in Shoreditch and you can still explore the surrounding neighborhoods and London’s iconic highlights. From my base at The Curtain, a 12-minute walk brought me to Liverpool Tube Station and its multiple lines, meaning most of the city’s crown jewels were within an easy ride on the underground. The accommodation options in Shoreditch match the area’s clientele — a mix of creatives and businesspeople of varying ages. Other properties include Ace Hotel London,

Shoreditch House and Nobu Hotel Shoreditch. The industrial-style warehouses and buildings of the Shoreditch of yore are today transformed into lofts, office buildings, restaurants and clubs, many adorned with colorful street art that adds a bit of edge and life, again complementing the area culture. Learn more during one of the many street art tours on offer. Along the well-known Brick Lane, punctuate tastes of the authentic curry for which London is known with visits to the surrounding shops and galleries. The neighborhood is also regarded for its Vietnamese cuisine. Higher-end restaurants pair nicely with the cozier, established eateries; consider Rochelle Canteen, Merchants Tavern, The Clove Club, Smokestak, Hoi Polloi and Red Rooster. Shop during a visit to Boxpark, a pop-up mall housed in former shipping containers, or find something for each member of your group at Spitalfields Market, a hallmark of East London. Galleries, exhibits and unique boutiques line the streets of this former artists’ enclave. Depending on the weather, end your evening overlooking the neighborhood you’ve just uncovered with a royal of a different sort. Queen of Hoxton, a bar, nightclub, roof terrace and performance space, reigns as a Shoreditch signature and an embodiment of the East End culture.

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friends & family | ISLE OF SKYE

Skye High Adventure

Explore Scotland’s magical, misty Isle of Skye. BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY IDYLLIC ISLE:

(Left to right) Eilean Donan Castle, Isle of Skye harbor, Talisker Distillery, and Old Man of Storr on Isle of Skye PHOTOS: © THOMAS LUKASSEK | DREAMSTIME .COM, © VISITSCOTLAND, © JOHN HOLMES | DREAMSTIME.COM, © NICK KONTOSTAVLAKIS | DREAMSTIME.COM

DON’T LET THE WEATHER FOOL YOU — Skye can be “a wee bit moist” on occasion, as 19th-century Cuillin mountaineer pioneer Charles Pilkington once said, describing Scotland’s island of adventure. The largest island of the Inner Hebrides, the Isle of Skye conjures images of King Arthur, fairy glens mixed with primeval myths, and Jurassic parks. The windswept island setting has been a popular filming location, most recently in last year’s release of King Arthur: Legend of the Sword. The other big news: The world’s largest dinosaur and the oldest dinosaur fossils ever found in Scotland were discovered earlier this year at Rubha nam Brathairean, commonly known as Brothers’ Point. Nearly 50 miles long with a rugged coastline so deeply indented you are never more than five miles from the sea, this magical place of the Hebrides lets you easily create your own legends. Submerged in mountain ranges with

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miles of dramatic coastline, a jaw-dropping, page-turning history unfolds by land and sea. The place awaits those ready to wrap themselves in Hebridean adventure. Start at the Eilean Donan Castle. Located in the Scottish Highlands on the main tourist route to the Isle of Skye, families and couples can discover a riveting Viking history at this 13th-century castle. The other big deal is the location. Situated on a wee isle at the confluence of three great lochs, it presents one of the most iconic images of Scotland, so get your smartphone ready to snap Instagram shots. The scene from this vantage point sets the mood for tall tales and strong gales. Once in Skye, in between the heritage sites visit geological features that dot the landscape. Road trippers snake along the Trotternish Circuit, a 50-mile drive spanning the northernmost peninsula. Weekenders inch the circuitous drive, stopping at iconic landmarks like the weathered basaltic pinnacle at Storr, with a popular landmark once used by sailors dubbed The Old Man of Storr. Marvel at the perilous Cuillin Ridge along the

haunted Cuillin Hills (an outlaw named MacRaing is a ghost here) and be sure to see the heavenly swath of beauty known as Quiraing. Named from an Old Norse term, Kvi Rand, meaning “Round Fold,” within this massive landslip teetering on the Trotterernish Ridge is the film location of King Arthur: Legend of the Sword. Quiraing also doubles as an Earth trekker’s dream. It features one of Skye’s best-loved trails, where healthy hikers veer onto an often muddy wild path for eye-candy scenery. For Jess Ponting, director, Center for Surf Research, San Diego State University, family trips to the Isle of Skye include visits to Quiraing. “With miles of green hills and an array of little ponds, traveling here feels pretty otherworldly,” he says, recommending travelers get an early start when visiting to make sure they get in before the crowds. For mellowing out and catching up with the locals, nothing matches visiting a cozy Scottish pub. One is the local watering hole at The Edinbane Inn in the island’s largest town of Portree. Diners slide into worn wooden seats to savor the tastes of cullen skink, a creamy fish stew, or another favorite dish of mussels accompanied by the prerequisite malt whiskey. Traditional Celtic folk tunes fill the rafters, ranging from musical medleys doled out by a moody bagpiper and guitarist to cheerful notes from a fiddler. The ultimate watering hole — though technically it doesn’t achieve pub status — is the Talisker Distillery. Set on the shores of Loch Harport in the village of Carbost, couples and old friends can tour the island’s only single malt whisky distillery, where luxury malts

LODGING THE CUILLIN HILLS HOTEL A former Victorian shooting lodge, this charming Scottish accommodation overlooks picture-pretty Portree Bay on private grounds where luxury and seclusion fit seamlessly, like hand in glove. Portree $$$$ FLODIGARRY COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL Overnight at the turn-of-thecentury former hunting lodge, once the cottage home of Scottish heroine Flora Mac-

Donald, and sense the luxury and Old World elegance of Highland hospitality. Flodigarry $$$$ MARMALADE Travel back in time at this classic Georgian hideaway, where the zest for life pulses at the heart of the boutique property’s philosophy. The hotel is named after the marmalade once made at this private residence of the treasurer of Lord MacDonald of Sleat. Home Farm Road, Portree $$$$

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reign. In a post-tour finale, prepare for mindbending whiskey tastings of silky-smooth single malts aptly named with local twists like Talisker Storm or Talisker Neist Point, named after a headland on the westernmost shore. Kara Harms of Whimsy Soul, a lifestyle blog, honeymooned on the Isle of Skye last fall. “I fell in love with the isle,” she says, recounting a memorable walk the newlyweds took among the Fairy Pools, magical blue pools on the River Brittle, located near Glenbrittle. “Sheep will most likely be sleeping at the entrance to the path to add to that Scottish charm,” she adds. She recommends taking a thermos of coffee for the perfect leisurely morning stroll. For the ultimate sunsets sure to please anyone, head to Neist Point. Drive up to the famous lighthouse teetering on the most westerly tip of Skye. Handholding couples embrace, illuminated by the golden-hued backdrop as families pile out of their vehicles, rushing off to snap that perfect family photo against the immense horizon, smiling the entire way.

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DINING LOCH BAY RESTAURANT Michelin-starred after being open just 18 months, this restaurant fuses contemporary Scottish fare with classic French influences. Helmed by the acclaimed chef who put Three Chimneys on the culinary map, Loch Bay offers diners fivecourse degustation and set three-course menus. 1-2 Macleod Terrace, Stein $$$$ SCORRYBREAC RESTAURANT Simple, elegant, cozy and intimate define this little unassuming gem open for dinner only.

Nestled between distant mountains and the harbor below, this Michelinstarred restaurant offers creative modern cooking. Reservations are essential. 7 Bosville Terrace, Portree $$$ THE THREE CHIMNEYS This longtime destination restaurant serves the best of Skye through its seasonal, freshly sourced ingredients. Voted this year’s U.K. Restaurant of the Year and winning three AA Rosettes, it’s held top U.K. dining honors for 18 years. Colbost, Dunvegan $$$$

ENCHANTED WATERS:

INFO TO GO

Car rentals prove the best way to travel across the island, allowing more time for leisurely visits and self-drives. Book a car from one of the rental companies located at either the international airport in Glasgow (GLA) or the nearest local airport in Inverness (INV). Expect a five- to six-hour drive from Glasgow to Portree in Skye. Fort William, a small town midway with shops and good places to eat, offers a convenient pit stop. From Inverness, the drive to Portree takes about three hours. Driving is on the left side of the road; be prepared for narrow, rural, single-track, back-country routes.

9 8 8 2 S O U T H S A N TA M O N I C A B O U L E VA R D, B E V E R LY H I L L S , C A 9 0 212 , U S A

T E L : + 1 310 5 51 2 8 8 8

E-MAIL: PBH@PENINSULA.COM

H O N G KO N G • S H A N G H A I • B E I J I N G • TO K YO • N E W YO R K • C H I C A G O • B E V E R LY H I L L S • PA R I S • B A N G KO K • M A N I L A Under Development LO N D O N • I S TA N B U L • YA N G O N • peninsula.com

bucket list | TAHITIAN ISLANDS

Underwater Wonders Encounter remarkable marine life in Bora Bora and beyond. BY SUSAN B. BARNES

UNDER THE SEA: (Left to right) Blacktip reef shark, Tiputa Pass, Rangiroa; divers exploring a reef off Bora Bora; and a stingray with a school of fish PHOTOS: © SEADAM | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MARCO LIJOI | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ALEXANDER SHALAMOV | DREAMSTIME.COM

TWENTY. FORTY. SIXTY. Seventy is as high as I reached when counting the blacktip sharks that gracefully glided past our small dive group as they went about their midmorning rituals. They seemed unaware of our presence in their underwater world, about 100 feet below the incredibly clear water’s surface. When I reached 70 in my counting exercise, I was only about two-thirds of the way across the ever-moving wall of sharks in Fakarava’s South Pass. As I floated, watching, what caught me by surprise was how calm and controlled my breathing was at that depth with all of that activity happening on every side. As my body gently swayed with the current, the sheer beauty of the scene unfolding before my eyes far outweighed any thoughts of fear or anxiety. A sense of peace washed over me as I watched in awe of the life simply existing in this undersea world. Bora Bora, Tahiti and essentially all of French Polynesia occupy the prime spots on many bucket lists, their positioning bolstered by images of crystal-clear waters in gradients of blues, deserted white-sand beaches with reaching palm trees and dreamy

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overwater bungalows. For scuba divers, even more enticements may just nudge the destination to the No. 1 spot on the list. With water visibility at about 130 feet, temperatures ranging from 79 degrees Fahrenheit in winter to 84 degrees in summer, and a difference of only about one-half degree from the surface to 166 feet below, you may be hard-pressed to find better diving conditions. Add world-class dive sites with myriad options of open water to advanced diving including lagoons, drop offs and passes, plus more than 1,000 species of marine life and 20 shark species, and diving in French Polynesia becomes even more appealing to those eager to plunge in. Marine life is so rich here, in fact, scientists consider the 2.5 million-square-mile Polynesia sea zone the “richest aquarium on Earth.” During my week-long French Polynesian dive trip, I visited the islands of Tahiti, Fakarava, Rangiroa and Bora Bora, diving into the “aquarium” off of the latter three with TOPDIVE, realizing each of the islands has its own personality. Fakarava in the Tuamotu Islands archipelago, for instance, is known not only for the wall of sharks but for its rich coral reef systems, vibrant schools

h painter ired Frenc sp in e v ha to Reserve. is thought Biosphere ,’ Fakarava O rb C S pe E su N U gs aking thin esignated a utiful’ or ‘m has been d nd a 0 3 9 1 Meaning ‘bea his visit in sse during Henri Mati

of fish by the thousands and underwater passes with swift-moving currents that ramp up drift diving to seemingly warp speeds. Likewise, marine life abounds in the waters surrounding Rangiroa, the world’s second-largest atoll, also found in the Tuamotu Islands. Here, 240 islets loop together more than 110 miles to completely encircle a deep lagoon known as Moana-tea, or Peaceful Ocean. On the other side of the chain of islets lies Moana-uri, or Wild Ocean, where you may spot larger marine life such as whales, manta rays, sharks and dolphins while drift diving. A highlight of one of my Rangiroa dives occurred when a pair of curious wild dolphins came close to check out our odd-tothem “pod.” The calm, crystal-clear lagoons of Bora Bora in the Society Islands archipelago are full of marine life as well; bright, tropicalcolored fish dart in and out of lively coral gardens while manta rays dance over underwater canyons. Discover plenty of fun topside on non-diving days, too, like a personal Fakarava tour with Enoha, an islander who also shares a lagoon-front art gallery with his wife, Cecile. Or go off-roading on

an ATV with Heiarii and Fakarava Adventure. Choose your own freshly harvested oyster (and, therefore, pearl) at a pearl farm, or hop onto a bike and explore the islands on two wheels. Of course, there is nothing wrong with sitting back, relaxing and soaking in the stunning atmosphere that surrounds the islands, especially after a day filled with diving. Options for staying in French Polynesia are as varied as the dive sites and islands themselves. Choose from traditional Tahitian guesthouses, or pensions, such as Tokerau Village on Fakarava; a beachfront hotel like Hotel Kia Ora on Rangiroa; or a luxury resort such as Conrad Bora Bora Nui. On the boat ride back to the north side of the island after our two dives in Fakarava’s South Pass, TOPDIVE dive master Mana and I chatted about the wonders of the undersea world we had just witnessed. “If I could live my life underwater, I would,” Mana said as he gazed out onto the horizon. After spending a week in the undersea world of the Islands of Tahiti, I wholeheartedly understand his sentiment.

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INFO TO GO

The Islands of Tahiti are accessible via daily, eight-hour direct flights from Los Angeles (LAX) to Papeete, Tahiti (PPT), on Air Tahiti Nui. Within French Polynesia, Air Tahiti provides inter-island flights to more than 25 of the 118 outlying islands, making island hopping fast and easy so you can spend more time in the water.

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kicking back | GREEK ISLES

Greek Classics

Embrace island time on Santoríni, Crete and Rhodes. BY MARLA CIMINI DISTINCT DESIGN

(Left to right) Oia sunset, Rethymno café, Lindos on Rhodes, and the Palace of the Grand Masters of the Knights of Rhodes PHOTOS: © IONUT DAVID | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ALEKSSMIR | DREAMSTIME .COM, © SKAISU | DREAMSTIME.COM, © DEBU55Y | DREAMSTIME. COM

WITH SO MANY PICTURESQUE and enchanting Greek islands to choose from, it can be a bit daunting to select just one charming locale for a getaway. Of the 227 inhabited islands in Greece (of nearly 6,000), these three favorite destinations offer unforgettably authentic yet diverse experiences: Santoríni, Crete and Rhodes. The sun was about to set, and we hastened our pace along the rocky coastal trail to reach our destination, the scenic town of Oia on Santoríni’s northern tip. My husband and I decided to hike the six miles from Fira that afternoon to see the stunning views of the sun melting into the horizon, a must-do activity on Santoríni. Part of the journey brought us along the narrow, winding footpath and then later along a trail of volcanic soil, past whitewashed homes, churches and other structures

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topped with iconic cobalt blue domes. Along this cliffside walk, we soaked in the panoramas of the famed caldera, glistening brilliantly in the late-day sunshine. We arrived, took our place among the assembled crowd facing west and celebrated the end of another day in paradise. If you’re seeking to step into a picture postcard, Santoríni is certainly the place to do it. Visitors can’t get enough of the jaw-dropping sapphire Aegean Sea, and an abundance of hotels and guest houses deliver on the mesmerizing view. It’s no wonder this island casts a spell on those who visit … the mythical home of the lost city of Atlantis, it offers pure magic. The southernmost island in the Cyclades lies about 120 miles from the Greek mainland and is known for its legendary vistas and laid-back vibe. Featuring mountainous terrain,

INFO TO GO

First-time tourists to Greece may not be aware the islands are not all easily accessible to each other, so build in extra time for travel among them. (Often, travelers must return to Athens before flying to another island.) Depending on the day, several types of ferries operate to some of the islands, so it’s essential to check timetables and book advance flights, keeping in mind the seasons affect the schedules. Several airlines, including Delta Air Lines, offer direct flights from New York (JFK) to Athens (ATH). A connecting flight (or ferry) is required to reach the islands.

everything here is on a slope, with meandering footpaths steep and uneven in places. As glorious as it is, Santoríni offers more than exceptional views. Visitors can take in cruises to the volcano, snorkeling trips and other water activities. On land one can easily rent a car or hire a local guide for an island tour. Gorgeous beaches (black, white and red sand) abound and range from rustic and remote to busy — such as Perissa and Perivolos — offering chairs, umbrellas, cafés and other facilities. Wine enthusiasts can swing by some of the island’s many wineries for tastings and tours and learn about indigenous grapes such as Assyrtico. History buffs appreciate the ancient Minoan city of Akrotiri and several museums, including the Archaeological Museum of Santoríni. Exquisite shops line narrow passageways, offering handcrafted jewelry, art and other items. And, of course, food lovers adore the variety of restaurants elevating this island to a gastronomic destination. Specialties include Greek lamb; pork and seafood dishes such as grilled octopus and dorado, the white, flakey, Mediterranean fish; as well as classic moussaka and fresh, locally grown vegetables.

On the island of Crete, the first traveler I met was a British woman reclining on a lounge chair by the swimming pool and reading a book at our boutique beach hotel, Ammos. “You’re only here for a few days?” she asked incredulously, taking pity on my limited vacation time. “We’re staying for six weeks.” I glanced at the waves lapping at the tranquil shore of the Cretan Sea a few steps away and clearly understood why someone would choose this destination for an extended trip. While you can easily spend years exploring Greece’s largest island, Crete houses a number of incredible world-class attractions you can visit within a few well-planned days. With a rugged coastline and expansive mountain range, the island offers a diverse landscape — including steep gorges and winding rivers — alongside historical sites dating back centuries, such as the ancient palace and ruins of Knossos. Located on the northern coast near Heraklion, the island’s capital, this spellbinding archaeological excavation should not be missed. The heart of Minoan culture thousands of years ago encompasses more than

LODGING AMATHUS ELITE SUITES This luxury property situated on the shores of the Aegean boasts exceptional vistas and high-end amenities throughout, including modern rooms, a swimming pool, a spa and several dining options. 100 Iraklidon Ave., Ixia, Rhodes $$$ AMMOS HOTEL Situated on a private beach, this boutique property offers modern rooms with terraces and sea views, a pool

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and restaurant with homemade specialties. It’s a five-minute drive from the historical harbor town of Chania. Irakli Avgoula, Chania, Crete $$$ ANTELIZ SUITES With breathtaking views of the caldera, this charming hotel features a swimming pool, balconies and complimentary breakfast brought to your room. Located along the footpath, it’s a 10-minute walk to the town of Fira. Fira, Santoríni $$$

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REMAINS OF THE DAY: Acropolis dedicated to Athenia Lindia in Lindos, Rhodes

DINING CHRISOSTOMOS Situated in Chania, this taverna, known for its local flavor, sources all ingredients from Crete. The menu includes beloved family seafood and meat dishes along with housemade cheeses. Deykalion and Ikarus, Port of Chania, Crete $$–$$$ KYMA Overlooking the lovely Lee Beach, this stylish restaurant offers splendid alfresco dining on its expansive terrace. It serves up an array of traditional and modern delights such as fish, slowcooked kabobs and homemade pastas. Pefkos Village, Lee Beach, Rhodes $$$ SEASIDE BY NOTOS With a contemporary ambience on the beach, this restaurant and lounge offers a multitude of innovative delights and indoor-outdoor seating. Seaside provides a surprising twist on Greek favorites, such as moussaka with shrimp and seafood. Perivolos-Agios Georgios Beach, Santoríni $$$$

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20,000 acres. On the western side of the island, Crete’s second-largest seaside city, Chania, features a picturesque Venetian harbor where locals and tourists gather throughout the season. Visitors can dine at a number of lively restaurants and cafés along the water and wander along the narrow, twisting streets, popping in and out of the many boutiques. Those curious about local history are in luck, as Chania boasts a naval museum, archaeological museum and maritime museum. And if you prefer relaxing on the sand and taking a dip in the turquoise sea, nearby beaches are easily accessible and ideally suited for swimming. Discover other highlights between Chania and Heraklion. The medieval port city of Rethymno blends the old and the new with winding streets and a creative vibe, and a multitude of shops offer crafts from local artisans. Meandering around the old town proves delightful, as the diverse architecture features Venetian, Turkish and Greek design. Much like the town itself, Rethymno’s restaurants and bars blend traditional and modern, featuring classic cuisine accented with a stylish ambience. The walled Venetian Fortezza (fortress) perched above the city provides dazzling views from the area’s highest point. Immediately to the east lies a wide, sandy beach complete with lounge chairs, umbrellas and nearby facilities. Located in southeastern Greece, the rugged and spellbinding island of Rhodes is the capital of the Dodecanese and was once a major trade hub. With a rich, multicultural history, it’s a haven for design enthusiasts, who can easily see the Roman, Turkish, Greek and Italian influences in the amalgamation of diverse architecture throughout the entire area. Although the island of Rhodes can’t be fully discovered without a car or other mode of transportation, the city of Rhodes proves best explored by walking. In fact, only residents are allowed to drive an auto within the Old Town walls. It is great fun to get lost in this charming city. With more than 200 unnamed twisting and narrow streets, it offers a prime SEPTEMBER 2018

opportunity to embrace adventure as you wander around the labyrinth of cobble-paved lanes and appealing squares. Arriving in the city provides an authentic and exhilarating experience as well. Recognized as one of the oldest continuously inhabited medieval cities in Europe, the Old Town welcomes visitors through impressively majestic gates, setting the proverbial stage by offering an invitation to take a step back in time. Strolling along the bustling Street of the Knights, the main drag, visitors have the opportunity to browse an array of shops, pause for a Greek coffee or savor a meal at a neighborhood taverna. Some of the restaurants and cafés offer rooftop dining with stunning views of the sea and port. The city’s top sites include the Palace of the Grand Masters of the Knights of Rhodes (aka Kastello). Refurbished in 1940, this stunning castle features Gothic architecture and houses museums and artifacts unique to Rhodes. The Archaeological Museum of Rhodes, housed in the former Hospital of the Knights, also proves a favorite destination among history lovers. Visitors can see the harbor entrance, where the famed Colossus of Rhodes statue once stood. This bronze wonder of the ancient world fell during an earthquake in ancient times. Outside the city you’ll find many gorgeous beaches, quaint villages and ancient sites around the island. A few top attractions include the beautiful village of Lindos and the nearby acropolis dedicated to Athenia Lindia, with its spectacular views of the city and surrounding crystal-blue waters. On the western end, the Valley of the Butterflies nature reserve attracts thousands of fluttering creatures from spring to fall. And what’s a trip to Rhodes without a beach day? The island’s west side is ideal for wind or kite surfing, while the eastern shores offer an abundance of beaches (with and without facilities) for snorkeling, stand-up paddle surfing or swimming. A few of the more popular are Elli Beach, Kallithea Springs and Anthony Quinn Bay, named after the famous actor who starred in the 1964 film Zorba the Greek and who loved and vacationed on the island.

lgbtq+

Intimate Occasions Key West attracts LGBTQ+ visitors for weddings, honeymoons and vacations. BY MARK CHESNUT

A HISTORIC EVENT TOOK PLACE back in 2015, when Florida’s first same-sex marriage united local gay activists Aaron Huntsman and William Lee Jones. The fact the ceremony took place at Key West’s Monroe County Courthouse says a lot about the destination’s long-time welcoming attitude. Today more than 225,000 LGBTQ+ visitors vacation in Key West every year, according to tourism figures from the Monroe County Tourist Development Council, representing all of the Florida Keys. And the southernmost city in the continental United States is more than just a gay vacation hot spot: Some 30 percent of Key West’s resident population identifies as part of the community. So it’s no wonder the destination enjoys such a great reputation with gay globetrotters from around the world. Same-sex weddings and honeymoons remain a major focus for the destination’s tourism industry … and with good reason. Key West was Florida’s first city to recognize same-sex domestic partnerships and marriage equality, and the city’s Monroe County was the state’s first county to recognize those same rights for the entire chain of Florida Keys. Most gay and lesbian weddings in Key West and the Florida Keys are intimate gatherings with fewer than 30 guests, according to Guy Ross, LGBT sales manager, Monroe County Tourist Development Council. “Perhaps the only ‘change’ that we are seeing now with the advent of marriage equality is the inclusion of more family members and more mainstream friends in gay and lesbian ceremonies,” he said. Memorable entertainment is another selling point for Key West. Nightlife fans out among several bars, including the Bourbon St. Pub, which hosts fanciful theme parties, and LaTeDa, a boutique hotel that’s home to the Crystal Room, where world-renowned female impersonators perform. The Key West Pride celebration takes place in June, while Fantasy Fest brings yet another parade and lots of open-air festivities to the city’s streets in October. A variety of gay-owned and gay-friendly hotels also roll out the welcome mat for LGBTQ+ visitors — including the male-only Island House and Equator Resort, as well as Alexander’s Guesthouse and a variety of upscale properties welcoming all travelers. In Key West, the rainbow carpet is rolled out just about everywhere.

DIVERSE COMMUNITY: Key West alfresco dining (above), and Tropic Cinema (left) PHOTOS: © MONROE COUNTY TOURIST DEVELOPMENT COUNCIL

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airport update

Arrivals and Departures Lisbon Airport offers a pleasant hub for passage to and from Europe. BY ERICH MARTIN

COMING AND GOING:

LISBON INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT aeroportolisboa.pt

JUST ABOUT FIVE MILES OUTSIDE OF LISBON lies the internationally renowned Humberto Delgado Airport. Colloquially identified simply as Lisbon International Airport, the hub acts as a gateway to Europe for millions of passengers every year. The airport began operation in October 1943 while Europe was still in the thick of World War II. Since then it has grown to be Europe’s 20th-largest airport, serving more than 26 million passengers in 2017. The airport houses a hub to South America as well as Africa, providing Europeans access to much of the world. The name of this Portuguese airport’s game is versatility. Throughout the facility, amenities ranging from currency exchange to health care stores, living room-styled accommodations, business set-ups for solo work and collaboration, playgrounds and more fill the

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airport before and after security clearance areas. Travelers coming through Lisbon Airport can expect a variety of amenities to combat downtime and forgetfulness. A fully equipped Airport Business Center provides charging stations, meeting spaces and even lounges to rest in. The spaces mean business travelers coming through Lisbon don’t need to wait until they reach their hotel or office to dig into work waiting for them. Passengers who arrive at the airport and need to take care of business utilizing the postal service can do so as well. CTT offers postal services for travelers including prepaid envelopes, post boxes and vending machines containing various items. Unrelated to the postal services offered, Portuguese travelers can also get electronic passports issued in a pinch.

health

Breathing Room Learn to manage COPD symptoms at home and on the road. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN COPD STANDS FOR CHRONIC obstructive pulmonary disease, which results in blocked airways in the lungs, making it hard to breathe. Over time, symptoms usually worsen, making it more difficult to take care of yourself and take part in activities. Chronic bronchitis and emphysema are two common types of COPD. In chronic bronchitis, the cells in the airways make more mucus than normal. The mucus builds up, narrowing the airways and allowing less air to travel into and out of the lungs. The lining of the airways may become inflamed, causing them to narrow even more. With emphysema, the small airways are damaged and lose elasticity. The airways collapse when you exhale, trapping air in the air sacs. Less oxygen enters the blood vessels, delivering less to all the cells of your body. Most people get COPD from smoking. Cigarette smoking damages the cilia, the small hairs that line and protect the airways. Damaged cilia can’t sweep mucus and particles away; some of the cilia are destroyed, worsening COPD. Air may get trapped in the lungs, preventing your lungs from filling completely with fresh, oxygen-filled air when you inhale. It’s harder to take deep breaths, especially when you are active and breathing faster. Over time your lungs may become enlarged, filling with air that does not transfer oxygen into the blood. Common symptoms are shortness of breath, wheezing, a chronic cough and feeling worn out. Your health care provider uses your past health history, a physical exam and tests to diagnose COPD. Tell your provider about your symptoms, their duration and whether they interfere with daily activities. Share other health problems and surgeries you have had. Report serious health problems in close family members, especially lung problems. The most important factor in COPD is whether you smoke or smoked in the past.

Also tell your provider if you have been around secondhand smoke, harmful chemicals or air pollution. Your provider will check your heart and lungs with a stethoscope and focus on your airways, including your nose and throat. Diagnostic tests may include pulmonary function tests, spirometry, pulse oximetry, arterial blood gas tests, chest X-rays and CT scans. Treatment for COPD may include medications, oxygen therapy, quitting smoking and avoiding infections. Wash your hands frequently and get vaccinated for the flu and pneumonia to prevent infections. Learn to cope with shortness of breath through exercise, breathing techniques, alternating rest with activity, pulmonary rehabilitation and healthy eating. Be as active as possible to improve energy levels and strengthen your muscles so you can do more. Ask your health care provider to show you how to do pursed-lip breathing. Ask about pulmonary rehab programs which provide breathing techniques, exercise, support and counseling. Eating a healthy, balanced diet and maintaining your ideal weight are important to staying healthy. Eat plenty of fruits and vegetables daily as well as balanced portions of whole grains, lean meats and fish and low-fat dairy products. When you have chronic lung disease, it’s normal to have good days and bad days. Take care of yourself emotionally as well as physically. Take steps to feel more in control of your health and situation. Your health care team, family and friends are there to help. Don’t be afraid to share your feelings and ask for support. Chronic lung disease can affect your independence, leading to feelings of anger, frustration, anxiety and depression. Keep doing the things you enjoy. As you plan your day, include activities just for fun. Stay involved with friends and family. Learn about

your lung disease and bring loved ones with you to medical appointments. Follow your treatment plan and talk to your provider if you have concerns. New treatments are constantly developed; if current treatment doesn’t meet your needs, other choices may be available. Chronic lung disease shouldn’t stop you from traveling, visiting family and friends and enjoying yourself, even if you use oxygen. You just need to be prepared. Changes in altitude and climate affect breathing and may require changes to your treatment, so talk to your physician about your plans. Preparation is key before a trip. Pack enough prescribed medicine for your entire trip plus extra in case of delays. Ask your provider if you need prescriptions for other medicines while traveling. Get copies of your prescriptions and bring a list of your medicines and doctors. Ask your provider what to do in case of infection; you may need a prescription for an emergency medicine. Ask your insurance company if you’ll have coverage in your destination. Get a portable nebulizer if needed. If traveling with oxygen, plan ahead. Get copies of your oxygen prescription and a letter from your provider stating you must use oxygen. Arrange for oxygen to be delivered to your destination through a medical supply company in that area to make sure it is delivered before your arrival. Call the transportation company you will travel on to learn the requirements for traveling with oxygen. Give yourself several weeks to make arrangements. Wear a medical ID bracelet listing your medical conditions, medication allergies and other allergies. Use a hand sanitizer often. Keep your medicines in your carry-on bags. Stretch your arms and legs if you’re sitting for long periods. If a rescue inhaler has been prescribed, use it before getting up to move around and before getting off the plane.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

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past & present

CMY

Halekulani’s beachfront location has welcomed guests since 1883 when the original owner, Robert Lewers, built a two-story house on the site of what is now the main building. The fishermen of the area would bring their canoes onto the beach in front of the property to rest. So welcomed were they by the Lewers family that the locals named the location “house befitting heaven,” or Halekulani. In 1917 Clifford Kimball and his wife, Juliet, leased the Halekulani property in Waikiki, Hawai’i, for $150 a month. The couple’s humble start included a home, five bungalows and a bathhouse — a total of 21 rooms for 40 guests. Along with their two young sons, George and Richard, the Kimballs laid the foundation for a significant resort. Halekulani has changed quite a bit over the years. The photos show Halekulani from the beach in 1940 (top left) and present day (top right), and the main building and circular driveway in 1950 (bottom left) and at present (bottom right). 82

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Halekulani

September 2018 Global Traveler

Articles inside

Arrivals and Departures

Intimate Occasions

Greek Classics

Underwater Wonders

Skye High Adventure

Hip At Heart

Into The Night

Open For Business

Era of Luxury

A new Standard in Luxury

Perfect Harmony

Bangalore Buzz

Ruler of the Riverways

French Revolution

California Dreaming

Beachside Bliss

Taking Off

Estate Planning: A holistic Approach

Return To Portugal

Home and Away

AC HOTEL CUZCO

THE WESTIN CAPE CORAL RESORT AT MARINA VILLAGE

ASIANA AIRLINES

All In The Plaza Seoul

Letter From The Publisher

Letter From The Editor: Special Travels