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letter from the editor ®
EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK
ON THE MOVE WOW — 200 ISSUES! I joined the FX Express Publications, Inc., team in October 2006, a recent college graduate (Go Syracuse!) and eager to learn all I could about the industry. I’ve been part of this company for a large majority of those 200 issues. The experiences I’ve had since exceeded even my wildest expectations. From unbelievable trips to colleagues I genuinely consider close friends to moments of sheer hilarity, it’s been quite the amazing ride. You can join us for a look back on page 38. To commemorate the milestone, we’ve compiled a list of 200 things you might want to know about the Global Traveler team. We’ve got recommendations, tips, tricks and funny memories to share. And there are stories from those of us who’ve been here for quite some BIRTHDAY TOAST: time and those newer to the team. It’s a quirky Kimberly Krol enjoying an after-dinner sour cherry liqueur and fun trip down memory lane. PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL One of the categories is 20 Underrated Cities You Need to Visit Now, and I recommended Lviv, Ukraine. My picture this month comes from my trip to the city, where I celebrated my birthday and enjoyed an after-dinner sour cherry liqueur from the city center’s Drunk Cherry. Add both Lviv and the libation to your bucket list. Where else does this issue take us? We’re in Munich; Jeddah; Washington, D.C.; at Croagh Patrick in Ireland; Guangzhou; Greenland; Fiji; Raleigh, N.C.; and Beirut. Also available this month is our Leisure Lifestyle Edition, announcing the winners of our sixth-annual Leisure Lifestyle Awards. The special issue also features in-depth articles on leisure travel trends including family-friendly resorts, food tours, vacation deficit disorder, how to travel like a celebrity, historical tourism and the best U.S. markets in which to buy your second home. Next month our Wellness Issue launches with a look at some of the healthiest spots on the planet. Let’s keep moving, both at home and on the road!
katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ALLIE MENZIONE allie.menzione@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Content Producer DEBRA BOKUR debra.bokur@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Editor at Large HOLLY RIDDLE holly.riddle@globaltravelerusa.com
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is Admission e North free to th Carolina of Art, Museum olina ar C th or N al of Natur m eu us M North s, ce en ci S Museum Carolina and the ry to is H of eigh al R of y Cit Read Museum. t more abou Raleigh on page 58.
ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN, Director of Technology BOB HANCOCK, Director of Digital Advancement JARED TORGAN
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A HELPING HAND LAST MONTH, MANY from the Global Traveler/FXExpress team attended the fifth annual Red & White Ball for The Leukemia & Lymphoma Society. Not only do employees contribute, but many of our airline and hotel clients donate to the silent auction. Top contributors included American Airlines, China Airlines, Accor Hotels, The Peninsula Beverly Hills and many others. Subscribers also answered the call and purchased raffle tickets and silent auction items — a combined effort for a great cause. The event, at the Philadelphia Marriott Downtown, was well-run by the fantastic Marriott team. I was excited when I received my confirmation the day before suggesting I download the Marriott App for check-in and my room key. Knowing more than 500 people attend the ball, with many staying at the hotel, I thought this was a great opportunity to avoid long lines. THE HUMAN FACTOR: Francis X. Gallagher with Claudette at the I downloaded the app and checked in; and although Philadelphia Mariott Downtown the process was cumbersome, I was pleased the app would PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER notify me when the key was available. I unsuccessfully tried to both sync my wife’s Marriott Rewards account to the reservation and add another key. I figured we would go to our room with my app and secure another key when the lines were shorter. I informed everyone in my party (in six rooms) about the app. None of them could even get the app to locate their previously made reservation and sync the check-in and key function (and 10 of them are millennials, by the way). I was not notified when the room was ready. We arrived after the indicated room availability, and I found the key had issues finding the unlocking mechanism. I stopped at the front door and was greeted by Claudette, head bell hop, and she walked me through the process. “Voila!” I thought, “This is great!” However, I quickly learned from other guests the app worked to unlock the room but didn’t function in the elevator. Fortunately, Claudette came to my rescue and escorted us to the room, where we had a lovely discussion about her homeland, St. Kitts, which I had recently visited. I told Claudette I would be back down shortly for a duplicate key. About 10 minutes later I went to the front desk, and Claudette came toward me with two keys. That is great customer service and a reason to return. I embrace technology. I drive a Tesla and was one the first people I know to have a robot vacuum, but when it doesn’t function, there is an issue. When you tell your customers an app is a solution to access rooms but not the elevator, that is a problem. I know our readers voted the Hilton App best, and I would be curious to know why. Hilton did spearhead keyless entry. This is not new technology, so I was disappointed. Fortunately, due to great employees like Claudette, the human factor turned a negative to a positive at the Marriott. If you have comments to contribute on the subject of keyless entry, I would love to hear from you at fran@globaltravelerusa.com.
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contents
May 2018 38
52
BUSINESS DESTINATIONS
38 200 and Counting The GT staff marks another milestone issue with reflections on travel.
52 Destination One: Guangzhou Guangzhou trades on its reputation as an international business hub.
44 The Posadas Experience The hotel group plans expansion in the Mexican market and beyond.
58 Stateside: Raleigh Raleigh boasts a business-friendly environment and culinary treasures.
48 Ultramodern Munich Unexpected experiences await delegates in Germany’s world-class city.
60 9–5: Jeddah Jeddah thrives as the kingdom pursues an ambitious vision for the future.
52
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62 After 5: Washington, D.C. Redevelopment adds a new nightlife district to Southwest D.C.
ON THE COVER globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99
May 2018
200 and Counting The GT team marks another milestone issue with reflections on travel. p. 38
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COVER PHOTO: WALT DISNEY WORLD IS ONE OF THE 20 TRAVEL EXPERIENCES RECOMMENDED BY GT STAFF © KJERSTI JOERGENSEN | DREAMSTIME .COM
RODEGHIER
FEATURES
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PHOTOS: © ANDRE KLASSEN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ELLEN CLARK, © VISITRALEIGH, © KATHERINE
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LIFESTYLE
CONNECTIONS
LEISURE DESTINATIONS
22 Technology 24 Wine & Spirits 26 Tours 28 Spas 30 Wealth 32 Golf 34 Chefs 36 Cruising 76 LGBTQ 80 Health
10 13 16 20 78 82
64 Neighborhoods: Beirut Through ups and downs, Beirut retains its vibrancy.
Mail Call News Reviews One on One Hong Kong Airlines Airport Update Past & Present
66 Friends & Family: Greenland Explore Greenland’s frozen expanse on an Arctic expedition. 70 Bucket List: Croagh Patrick Climb in the footsteps of St. Patrick on Ireland’s northwest coast. 72 Kicking Back: Fiji Escape to a fantasy paradise in friendly Fiji.
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Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2018 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.
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Q&A WITH ANGELIQUE PLATAS, ASSOCIATE EDITOR
FEBRUARY Q&A WITH PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS
With our May issue of Global Traveler being our 200th, it feels like reason to celebrate. Traveling for the sake of celebration has become one of my new favorite reasons to get away, especially since my girlfriends and I went away for a long weekend in Boston to celebrate my best friend’s bachelorette party. Getting away for a change of scenery and some sightseeing is always a welcome opportunity, but the added celebratory aspect had me thinking: What occasion calls for a commemorative trip? Where would you like to travel for your next big life milestone?
In the February 2018 issue, associate editor Patricia Vanikiotis talked about her New Year’s Eve tradition with friends on the Oregon coast. Her trip inspired the question: Do you find yourself returning over and over to a favorite destination, perhaps a family vacation spot or personal retreat? What was the original draw to the place, and what continues to call you back?
Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com
As creatures of habit, our family tends to revisit the same beaches in the summer. The comfort in familiarity makes the trip easier to plan and coordinate, but for the first time in years we are actually attempting a new destination this year for a family reunion to the Outer Banks in North Carolina.
PROTEST TOURISM PHENOMENA In our March 27 eFlyer USA, we discussed the growing trend of protest-inspired travel and the influx of tourism to Washington, D.C. Tourism seems to be growing with protests and peaceful group movements including International Women’s Day 2018 and, most recently, March For Our Lives.
Laurelee Wilson, via email My sister and I try to go somewhere new together every year. Whether traveling abroad or domestic, a quick weekend or two weeks, we try to check off our bucket lists one destination at a time. Although we have a few favorite spots and always plan to revisit, our list seems too long to slow down for repeats just yet.
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Rebecca Banks, via email
CONVENIENT AIRPORTS In the March 20 issue of eFlyer USA we discussed what constitutes a convenient airport and listed the convenient airports in the United States. We mentioned Boston Logan International and its close proximity to downtown, Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport and its easy access to the National Mall, and San Diego International Airport’s less-than-three-mile distance from the popular Gaslamp Quarter and Convention Center.
A reader wrote in with a few more suggestions for travelers looking for convenience and easy access to downtown locales. Louisville International Airport (SDF) Salt Lake City International Airport (SLC) Baltimore–Washington International Airport (BWI) All are very convenient to their downtown areas.
While I unintentionally witnessed protests traveling abroad in Italy and at home, post-election 2016 in New York City, I never intentionally traveled to the site of a protest. However, I do see the appeal. The energy surrounding a protest is palpable and truly one to remember, especially for a cause you believe in. Carla Dowell, via email
Tom Leach, via email
CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.
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THE SOURCE FOR LUxURY BUSINE
ABU DHABI
A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND
A TRAVEL WARNING In our November 2017 issue of Global Traveler, our team of frequent travelers discussed our favorite travel memories, vacation tips, business travel advice and everything in between. One GT staff member advised travelers to keep personal belongings and important documents in just one or two places to easily keep track of everything. My profession is on the broadcast/cable side of the business where I’ve been lucky to earn United’s 2 Million Miler and Lifetime Platinum status with Marriott, among several other similar “flavors” in loyalty programs. Despite such experience, in taking a year off almost two decades ago, I was the victim of a pickpocket at Central Station in Copenhagen. At the time, half the platforms were undergoing remodeling, making for increased crowds on the ones functioning. Also at the time, before the amazing Øresundsbron was built connecting Denmark with Sweden, only one or two trains went directly onto ferries for the trip across to Sweden without switching trains, taking a short ferry ride in between. That made it a crowded train and one filled with tourists. I knew within seconds I was missing my wallet, which had been in a front pocket, and from the train the conductor let me use his phone. I called and canceled the few credit cards and a bank ATM card. Replacements were sent within days and, in leaving Denmark, I used up every krone in paying for my hotel stay. But my luck was my Eurail ticket was in one jacket pocket (buttoned), my passport in another, with the lifted wallet in my trousers. Had everything been in one place my situation would be far less positive to recall. In a funny-how-things-work-out way, the police report I filed at my next stop,
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Göteborg, Sweden — I needed to pick up a car rental later in England, having then documented my driver’s license from a photocopy I carried in my luggage and certified by the police — came in handy years later, in 2010, when I moved for three years to Munich. I was coming from San Francisco, but Germany did not offer reciprocal driver’s licenses to people from a few U.S. states, California and Florida among them. I had, however, lived in many other states, all of which had reciprocal licenses; it was just my bad timing to come from California. First I got an identification card from Colorado, where I had lived three times previously and now live again — not a driver’s license itself, though it did have my former license number on it. However, that Göteborg Police report showed that same Colorado number and, short-story-long, the German authorities accepted it and I got my driver’s license (good for my lifetime, in fact). Had I not filed the report 12 years earlier, the classes and lessons one has to take for a German license would have probably taken longer than my three-year stay. But while that becomes an interesting ironic postscript to the pickpocketing incident, I wanted to share the main part of that story in the hope you’ll never encounter anything remotely like losing anything of value while traveling — but if you were to, perhaps your loss would be minimized. Love the magazine (and emails), and I’ll spare you stories about crime from my next residency after Germany: São Paulo, Brazil, another three years, and not the place most people imagine, though like everywhere, it has much to offer the cautious tourist and traveler. Jim Seifert, via email
HANGZHOU
IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE kicking back | COOK
ISLANDS
fine vines
TEL AVIV
Torrontés Tango
FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY
Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.
I
n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods. As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20. And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites. Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish. Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine. IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth. Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind andoffering soul ain is clean, crisp and refreshing, famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands. BY mouth. BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones. PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit. 72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste.
Art of Healing
INFO TO GO
A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.
ICELAND
ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE A
May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35
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IHG to Buy Luxury Hotel Brand
In an effort to expand its footing in the luxury hotel market and increase its portfolio of properties, InterContinental Hotels Group plans to purchase a luxury hotel brand rather than build a new luxury brand from within. Although IHG is one of the world’s largest luxury brands, it now strives to create a high-end entity
to compete with other global players in the same sector. The acquired brand will offer the quality of IHG properties with an added touch of luxury at a marginally higher price point. IHG also considers an eventual move toward resorts as well as a new conversion brand to debut this year in the Europe, Middle East, Africa and Asia (EMEAA) regions. ihg.com
AIRBNB TO LAUNCH LOYALTY PROGRAM After the rollout of Airbnb’s Superhost status for its members who publish their homes on the home-sharing website, Airbnb now allows guests to sign up for a similar program that rewards them for their stays and increases their guest rating. This new program is especially of interest to business travelers who rely on building rewards points with larger loyalty programs such as Marriott Rewards and Hilton Honors. Although the company has not yet published the complete list of benefits for the program that will launch this summer, Airbnb hinted Superguests will be privy to perks such as discounts, last-minute reservations and the ability to peruse a list of exclusive accommodations. The page of Airbnb’s website that advertises the impending Superguest program invites visitors to submit suggestions regarding what they would like to see in a travel membership program from the homesharing site.
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Rise of High-Speed Rail
In recent years it seems airfare has never been more affordable, especially when it comes to international flights. But for domestic flights from town to town, particularly for daytrips, tacking on one to two hours on either end of a flight to deal with airport formalities makes the trek even longer. High-speed rail service between popular cities for business travel could change the transportation game for weekly meetings and conferences. Former arguments for flying led with a shorter amount of time between Point A and Point B, but with high-speed rail this argument is moot. Such trains hit the tracks in countries like China, Japan and South Korea and facilitated an increased interest in travel between some cities in these countries. China’s Fuxing route between Shanghai and Beijing travels at 218 mph, making the journey of 775 miles in only four hours and 28 minutes. In Europe affordable train tickets at $39 for short, direct routes that took no longer than flights resulted in airline giants removing shorter routes from their offerings and leaving the job to discount airlines such as Ryanair and EasyJet.
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news
American Airlines’ Basic Economy
As of last month, travelers who book U.S.–Europe flights with American Airlines have the option to book seats in the Basic Economy class of seats. These new fares will be barebones and will not include extras such as seat selection or checked bags. Passengers who book these seats will be assigned a seat when they check in, will board with Group 8, will be allowed one carry-on item and one personal item on board and will not be eligible for upgrades. Guests can purchase some of these services for an extra fee. Basic Economy passengers will still receive in-flight meals and entertainment. Similar to other major international airlines, AA cut formerly included services and amenities in order to stay competitive in the global air market.
Denver Opens The Ramble
Southwest Increases Upgrade Fees, Drink Prices
theramblehotel.com
southwest.com
Denver’s River North Art District will soon open the doors to a new boutique accommodation among the jazz bars, breweries and art galleries that characterize the neighborhood. The Ramble Hotel combines rustic mountain charm with laidback Brooklyn edge. Fifty guestrooms are outfitted with inspiration from 17th-century French salons (common areas) with a focus on coming together for enlightening conversation with fellow guests. Guests can further their discussions over cocktails at the first outpost of the famous New York cocktail bar Death & Co, or sit down for a dinner of PanLatin cuisine at Super Mega Bien, a restaurant from James Beard-nominated chef Dana Rodriguez.
Last-minute flight upgrades with Southwest Airlines used to cost either $30 or $40, but the domestic airline introduced a third-tier price of $50. This price increase will apply to “high-demand” markets only, while other markets will keep the same fees of $30 and $40. Southwest has yet to release the full list of airports that fall under this classification. Upgraded boarding allows Southwest passengers to board first and have the first pick of the seats between rows 1 and 15. The American airline is also making changes once passengers are on board. As of March, alcoholic drink prices rose by $1–2 on all flights. Beers are $6 for Miller Lite or Dos Equis and $7 for premium beers, while wine costs $6 per glass and liquors cost $7.
EVA’s New In-Flight Amenities
At the start of this year, Taiwanese airline EVA Air introduced a new in-flight amenities menu that raises the bar of comfort for passengers in every section of seats. Laurel Class and business-class passengers can enjoy a new wine list and a seasonal menu of dishes that reflect the four seasons in Taiwan, as well as luxurious pajamas designed by London label APUJAN. Premium-class passengers can keep warm with custom-made quilts and large down pillows for a peaceful rest, while economy-class travelers who fly from Hong Kong to Taipei can snack on pound cake prepared by legendary French bakery PAUL. evaair.com
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PHOTOS: © AMERICAN AIRLINES, © AJDIBILIO | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MIKE FUCHSLOCHER | DREAMSTIME.COM
aa.com
deals & rewards Citi ThankYou Premier Card Bonus
Applicants who eyed the Citi ThankYou Premier Card and have waited for a good excuse to sign up can earn 50,000 bonus points when they spend at least $4,000 during the first three months of membership. New members also can earn triple the points for travel and gas purchases and double the points for purchases at restaurants and for entertainment. Each ThankYou point is worth 1.25 cents toward the purchase of an airline ticket. Points also can be converted to miles and used with 15 airline loyalty programs. ThankYou card members pay an annual fee of $95 (waived during the first year) and can use the card abroad without having to worry about international transaction fees. citi.com
Earn Bonus Avios Flying U.K.–Europe
Use Hyatt Loyalty Points for Oasis Properties
Members of the World of Hyatt loyalty program can now use earned points to book a stay with Oasis home rentals. With more than 2,200 lodging options in 22 destinations (and counting), Oasis offers travelers the option to stay in a luxury home rather than a standard hotel. Oasis prides itself on being the perfect blend of a local’s residence and a comfortable hotel. Services include amenities similar to what guests would find in a hotel including toiletries, on-demand concierges and fully stocked bars and refrigerators. Oasis offerings are located in destinations where Hyatt properties are scarce such as Barcelona; Ibiza; Rome; and Trancoso, Brazil. world.hyatt.com oasiscollections.com
In an effort to persuade British Airways customers to book short flights between the United Kingdom and mainland Europe, the airline offers 16,000 bonus Avios points for flights scheduled through the end of June. To qualify, members must book multiple flights. Booking four or more one-way flights rewards travelers with 4,000 bonus points, and eight or more one-way flights grant members 16,000 bonus points. BA hopes this promotion helps ramp up its competition with low-cost, short-haul carriers like EasyJet and Ryanair. ba.com
PHOTOS: © OASIS, © ML12NAN | DREAMSTIME.COM
Cruise and Earn Amex Rewards
Now may be the time to book that long-awaited cruise vacation for the summer season. Travelers who spend at least $500 on a cruise with Norwegian Cruise Line are eligible to receive up to 10,000 reward points toward their American Express loyalty membership. The money spent toward the vacation and thus eligible for the promotion does not include any purchases made on board the ship, any booked excursions off the boat or any gift card purchases. This offer expires May 10. americanexpress.com ncl.com
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WASHINGTON PARK HOTEL SOUTH BEACH Reviewed by Ashley Richards
Arrival/Check-In: After finishing some meetings, I arrived at the hotel in the evening. I was a bit concerned since I had dinner plans in an hour. I anxiously waited in line to check in, but it only took about 15 minutes. The Washington Park Hotel has five buildings, so I followed the map to my room in the Taft Building, where I quickly changed and got ready for dinner. As I waited to check in, I found the lobby appealing. The Washington Park sports an Art Deco design with a lot of grays and wood. The lobby featured a beautiful pool table; I welcome a little friendly competition if time allows.
Services/Amenities: Once I finished dinner, I met Francis X. Gallagher for a drink in the Kenmore Building (where we checked in) at the Swizzle Bar — a Caribbean rum bar where Fran and I were treated well by bartender Danilo Bozovik. Bozovik uses a swizzle to make his signature cocktail drinks, which I’d never seen before. You can find out more about his tips
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◆ The luxury bath products are Beekman 1802. ◆ Tuk Tuk Shuttle Service gets you around town. ◆ Head to the Swizzle Bar for signature rum cocktails.
and tricks of the trade in his book Barkeep: The Guide to Becoming a Professional Bartender. Aside from the bar, I later found the hotel offers a complimentary bicycle service, with seven bikes available on a first-come, first-served basis. This makes a good option for a leisure trip since parking is not the easiest thing to find in South Beach. Despite the quick trip of only two days at Washington Park Hotel, it did not disappoint. I enjoyed the room, the service and the location. At first glance, this does not look like your traditional hotel — especially since you are given a map to find your way to your building — but it is a nice change from the norm, and I would definitely stay here again.
WASHINGTON PARK HOTEL SOUTH BEACH 1050 Washington Ave. Miami Beach, FL 33139 tel 305 421 6265 wphsouthbeach.com
PHOTOS: © WASHINGTON PARK HOTEL SOUTH BEACH
Guest Quarters: My room was perfect for the business traveler. From the entrance, an island separated the restroom and shower area from the beds. This may sound odd, but the island was set up perfectly along the wall so I could hook up my laptop, phone, iPad and anything else I needed to work from with plenty of outlets. A mini fridge and coffee machine sat closer to the window. The room provided a view of the pool area, which was nice; unfortunately, I didn’t get any time to enjoy swimming.
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
GT tested
HOTEL HEALDSBURG Reviewed by Katie Skrzek
PHOTOS: © HOTEL HEALDSBURG
TOP TAKEAWAYS: Arrival/Check-In: I arrived at the Hotel Healdsburg prior to check-in time, and my room was not yet ready, so I decided to explore the neighborhood. The luxury property is located across from Healdsburg Plaza and a variety of shops. A stroll was the perfect way to pass the short time. About 30 minutes later, I received a text from the hotel that my room was available. My luggage had been brought to my room, so I easily went on my way.
and beverages, replenished daily. A Keurig coffeemaker is also provided for in-room use. Turndown service is one of my favorite hotel amenities, and Hotel Healdsburg offers this service nightly. A different treat was left each night. I particularly enjoyed a sampling of local chocolate. The hotel offers complimentary WiFi, which I always appreciate. There were USB outlets on either side of the bed, ideal for overnight phone charging.
Guest Quarters: My room on the second floor overlooked the hotel pool. It was quite warm when I walked in, though the heating/cooling system was easy to operate. I loved the room’s décor, with light gray and green tones right down to a bowl of green apples on the side table. The wooden shades, also in gray, offered great coverage from the sun. Each guestroom in the hotel features original work from a Healdsburg-based artist. The bed was backlit and controllable via a panel next to the headboard. I enjoyed this lighting option in the evening and morning. The bathroom featured a separate tub and shower. To promote eco-friendliness, the property uses large-format bath products made with locally sourced ingredients and encourages guests to reuse their towels. The signature organic bath amenities come from the hotel’s spa. The rooms boast a variety of complimentary snacks
Services/Amenities: The property features two on-site restaurants, a bar, a 60-foot pool, a fitness center and a spa. During the summer months a pool bar is open. I didn’t have a car during my visit, though I noticed complimentary valet parking and complimentary electric car charging stations. The property has several bikes available to rent, complimentary for guests. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to experience these amenities during my visit. However, I did enjoy breakfast on site. Complimentary breakfast is available 6–10 a.m. by the bar off the lobby. The spread includes a variety of fruit, pastries, yogurt, bread and smoked salmon. Hot items like omelets and breakfast sandwiches are made to order. I opted to eat light, as I had an early lunch that day. The hotel, much like Healdsburg itself, is charming.
◆ Grab a complimentary coffee or water bottle from the lobby in the morning before heading off for your activities. ◆ The hotel is conveniently located within walking distance of dozens of shops, restaurants and tasting rooms, so venture out and explore on foot. ◆ Meeting space is available, accommodating anywhere from 14 to 200 guests. HOTEL HEALDSBURG 25 Matheson St. Healdsburg, CA 95448 tel 707 431 2800 hotelhealdsburg.com
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THE INN AT RANCHO SANTA FE Reviewed by Kaitlind Eydelloth
TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ Character, history and location near the quaint downtown village of Rancho Santa Fe, boasting coffee shops, restaurants and neighborhood charm, makes the property and surrounding areas incredibly walkable — a fun and accessible weekend on foot.
Guest Quarters: I stayed in a Premier suite located on the one-level, 21-acre property. My room was tucked away down a few lovely, flower-filled paths, past beautiful gardens and meticulously groomed lawns. It was extremely quiet and felt like I had been transplanted to an elegant countryside estate in Europe. I walked into my room and was happy to see a fireplace for chilly California nights, a wet bar, a king-sized bed with luxe linens, a chaise longue and a modern bathroom with an oversized shower. There was plenty of space to spread out, feeling like my own guest studio, including a private patio with garden views — such a pleasant surprise and a perfect place to relax between wedding activities during the weekend. Services/Amenities: I loved that the hotel staff were more
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than accommodating and went out of their way to make our stay special. Everyone was extremely friendly and happy to hold a couple of things at the front desk the night of the wedding to make it convenient for me to grab items without going back and forth to my room. My friend’s wedding took place on the front lower lawn, followed by a cocktail hour and reception at the Azalea Lawn. It was private and intimate, surrounding us with rich greens, bistro lights and a clear California sky. The natural elegance of the greenery and lush flowers created an enchanting space. I also enjoyed the nooks of the inn, including seated areas with fireplaces trimmed in geometric and floral tiles, as well as a whiskey bar, The Huntsman, located inside. There are so many thoughtful details at this property, and it truly created a weekend of memories I will always cherish.
◆ The locally sourced California restaurant, Morada, located at the front of the property, offered burgers, Reubens and baked mac and cheese as well as delicious salads that could be enjoyed inside on a studded leather seat or outside on the patio overlooking the front lawns. The fresh menu and open spirit created a dining experience to make guests feel right at home. THE INN AT RANCHO SANTA FE 5951 Linea del Cielo Rancho Santa Fe, CA 92067 tel 858 756 1131 theinnatrsf.com
PHOTOS: © THE INN AT RANCHO SANTA FE
Arrival/Check-In: I arrived at The Inn at Rancho Santa Fe around 2 p.m. after a 2.5-hour drive from Los Angeles. The front croquet lawns mimic an Old Hollywood feel, with history-rich black-and-white equestrian photos and crystal chandeliers in the entryway. I admired the teal and gray color palette as I walked into the inn, where a welcoming staff member greeted me with fresh water and lemon. Arriving for my best friend’s wedding weekend, I knew immediately it would not be one to forget at this luxe countryside retreat full of history and present-day charm.
GT tested
FAENA HOTEL MIAMI BEACH Reviewed by Kimberly Krol
TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ While we didn’t need much else than was already supplied in our ample guestroom, my friend did need to call the front desk with a question, and the hotel had quite a bit of trouble with the phone system not working properly.
PHOTOS: © KIMBERLY KROL
Arrival/Check-In: I arrived at Faena Hotel Miami Beach with a friend for a girls’ weekend away in January. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t as cooperative as we’d hoped. Upon arrival, a friendly bellhop told us more about the stunning artwork in the grand entryway/foyer of the hotel. On the right side of this foyer are a restaurant and theater, and to the left are the elevators, concierge and a personalized check-in experience. There’s no busy main reception at Faena but rather two desks that offer a more exclusive welcome experience. Within a few minutes we were checked in and on our way to our guestroom. Guest Quarters: The building on Collins Avenue that today houses Faena Hotel Miami Beach was formerly 1947 Saxony Hotel. The hallways on the way to guestrooms almost evoke a school hallway, or that of an apartment building. But despite the bones of the building, there’s no debate this property exudes cool. The artwork is impressive, the décor sleek and modern, and the color combination a touch exotic. The service strives to match as well, including butlers. Most of the rooms are suites; ours opened into a living area with the wet bar set up to the right of the entrance and a coat closet, where we hid our winter coats, to the immediate left. A small dining table led into the living room, with armchairs, a couch and coffee table opposite a two-sided TV. A deck off the living room offered a
partial beach view. The living room rolled right into the bedroom, with even more closet space, before leading into a large bathroom with double sinks, a long vanity, a separate water closet with a smart toilet and a large, luxurious shower. Services/Amenities: We stayed on property the entire weekend, enjoying the many on-site amenities. For breakfast each morning of our two-night stay we went to Veranda, next to the pool. On the first night, we ate at Los Fuegos by Francis Mallmann, which offers a contemporary asado experience. Our final dinner was at Pao by Paul Qui, boasting Filipino, Spanish, Japanese and French cuisine. Three bars — Saxony Bar, with a live DJ and golden-age glamour; The Living Room, serving small plates and bespoke cocktails; and the outdoor Tree of Life — are also available. One interesting amenity we didn’t get to try was Faena Theater, an intimate, gilded theater where guests can enjoy artistic productions and Faena’s own acclaimed cabaret performance. I’d definitely consider purchasing tickets on my next visit, as I heard other guests raving. I also enjoyed a massage at Tierra Santa Healing House, a 22,000-square-foot spa on the hotel’s third floor. In addition to an extensive shop and a full menu of treatment options, the facility has plenty of relaxation areas, including hot tubs and saunas, for pre- or post-treatment.
◆ Even though the weather did not quite agree, we enjoyed some time poolside. We reserved chairs and also enjoyed lunch, libations and attentive service. ◆ The hotel boasts a stateof-the-art fitness facility; however, I took advantage of the property’s location to enjoy a morning three-mile walk along the oceanfront path, accessible behind Faena Hotel Miami Beach. FAENA HOTEL MIAMI BEACH 3201 Collins Ave. Miami Beach, FL 33140 tel 305 534 8800 faena.com
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one on one
GEORGE LIU Chief Marketing Officer, Hong Kong Airlines ABOUT YOUR BRAND What can premium travelers expect from a flight with Hong Kong Airlines? Our truly Hong Kong brand is rooted in dedication to service and delivering more to customers for less. Offering a dramatically different in-flight experience, from the unique flight crew to Above & Beyond services, the airline embodies “Where Hong Kong Begins.” Premium travelers can expect friendly, genuine service in their native language, authentic and delicious food and a comfortable and luxurious flight. We are also committed to providing reliable, on-time service.
YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? Improving passenger experience is a must, from manufacturing to tech and long-haul capabilities. We will improve our front-end experience with conveniences like facial recognition check-in, baggage tracking and an updated mobile experience. Best career advice you’ve received: Years ago, it
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was to stay current. That changed to: Stay in the future. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Always put yourself in your customers’ shoes. Branding is behaved; live the brand and promise to deliver. AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: On a recent trip with colleagues, traffic delayed us on the way to JFK. I used my TSA PreCheck while my colleagues got held up in the regular security line. I told the aircraft crew my team was running behind, but they had to close the doors after waiting as long as possible. The captain came out to say they called the control tower but just couldn’t make it work and apologized. My team did not make the flight, but the crew showed such kindness and humanity, the experience stuck with me. One travel tip you cannot live without: I follow a packing checklist so I have all my extra conveniences to enjoy my trip. Best advice for business travelers: Let your boss or team know what you are up to during your trip. If you stay ahead of communication, you’re always in the clear.
Tell us more about the airline's green initiatives. Our all-Airbus fleet adopts new designs equipped with highly efficient engines. We operate one of the youngest fleets in the world, contributing to better fuel consumption. Our cabin crew combines efforts to reduce waste from in-flight operations. We have an onboard recycling program and encourage green travel. Our free bicycle baggage allowance applies to passengers flying to/from Australia, New Zealand, Taiwan, Japan and Hainan.
PHOTO: © HONG KONG AIRLINES
Name: George Liu Title: Chief marketing officer Company, city: Hong Kong Airlines, Hong Kong Number of employees: 3,500 worldwide and 12 in the United States, with more to come as we expand Recent project: Hong Kong Airlines launched its first continental U.S. destination at LAX in December, followed by SFO in March. We welcomed our first Airbus A350 Sept. 1 and opened a state-ofthe-art VIP lounge at HKG. First job: I was a journalist for eight years, then moved into public relations and marketing. Little-known fact about you: I dress to express myself. As a marketing executive I have the freedom to be creative, and I like to incorporate my personality and that of the brand into my daily uniform.
Tell our readers about the U.S. launch. What more can we look forward to from Hong Kong Airlines in 2018? Hong Kong Airlines was excited about the Dec. 18 launch of non-stop flights from LAX. By strengthening the connection between North America and our Asia Pacific destinations, we provide more options for American business, leisure, academic and family travelers. That day also marked our first A350 landing at LAX. We will introduce 21 A350 aircraft into the fleet, featuring a wide-body cabin with 33 seats in business class and 301 in economy. The business-class seats measure 23 inches wide and lie completely horizontal [when] fully reclined. This, together with specially designed soft bedding, ensures passengers enjoy the highest quality of sleep in the air. The new San Francisco route is also serviced by our new A350s. In an effort to become a global brand, Hong Kong Airlines will expand with additional U.S. and European destinations, launching in New York and London in 2018. We’ll continue our efforts to fly higher and farther and share Hong Kong Airlines’ service around the world.
technology
HOME AND AWAY Find those just-right devices you've been looking for. BY JACK GUY
APPLE HOMEPOD It’s been a while in the making, but HomePod is finally here. The hybrid device will compete with Google Echo and Amazon Home as a voice-controlled AI assistant while also taking on high-end wireless speakers such as Sonos and Haim. Apple is selling the device based on its great audio quality, and it seems like an elegant solution for music fans who want amazing sound as well as voicecommand capabilities. Buy two for different rooms or use them in the same space for stereo sound. $349. apple.com
LOGITECH MX MASTER 2S ERGONOMIC MOUSE The demands of the world of work evolved far more rapidly than the human body in recent decades, making fatigue and injury from using computer equipment for long periods a worry for many people. One way to cut down on tendon and muscle fatigue is to invest in an ergonomic mouse, such as this offering from peripherals heavyweight Logitech. It connects over Bluetooth or wireless USB for convenience and works on any surface, including glass. Its large body is designed to fit every hand comfortably, and the rechargeable battery lasts 70 days. $99.99. logitech.com
DJI MAVIC AIR If you don’t need a professional-quality drone but you’re looking for something more impressive than entry-level models, the new DJI Mavic Air is perfect. It’s incredibly portable, making it great for outdoors enthusiasts, and it’s easy to fly. Once you’ve got the hang of the controls, you can fly at an incredible top speed of 42 mph while shooting stabilized 4K video. $799. dji.com
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PHOTOS: © APPLE, © AWAY TRAVEL, © LOGITECH, © DJI
AWAY: THE BIGGER CARRY-ON Luggage startup Away took the industry by storm when it released its affordable luxury range, featuring the 46 liter-capacity The Bigger Carry-On. It fits in the overhead bins of all major airlines while giving you enough space for all of your stuff and comes with a built-in battery pack for charging your devices on the move. Luckily, it complies with new rules on batteries that saw rival brands banned by airlines. Available in eight colors, the bag comes with a lifetime guarantee. $245. awaytravel.com
FLY M O R E WITH THE AIRLINE THAT FLIES TO MORE COUNTRIES THAN ANY OTHER
wine & spirits
WORTH THE WAIT It takes years of aging for Brunello di Montalcino to reach its peak. BY EUNICE FRIED
s the ino wa c l a t n o taly’s o di M CG, I l l e O n D u Br eive 80. to rec e n i , in 19 w y t r s o r g i e f y cat qualit t s e h hig
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PHOTO: © LE CHIUSE, © LA MAGIA
WHENEVER WINE AFICIONADOS talk about Italy’s greatest wines, they are sure to bring up Brunello di Montalcino, often the first and, occasionally, the only one mentioned. A Tuscan wine, it is made solely from Sangiovese Grosso, the grape grown in vineyards surrounding the town of Montalcino, 20 miles south of Siena. This super clone of Sangiovese bears large, rich, thick-skinned berries that are brown-shaded — thus, the name Brunello. And it is capable of making bold, flavorful red wines, most of which need years of aging to reach their peak. In fact, Italian wine laws require Brunello di Montalcino be aged five years after harvest before it is released and its riserva six years before being put on the market. I recently tasted a batch of Brunello di Montalcino wines, all but one from the 2013 vintage and that one, a riserva, from 2012. All offered deep, opulent flavors while their alcohol levels ranged 13.8–14.5 percent, comfortable levels that do not mask a wine’s character the way higher alcohol levels can. The year 2013 was a relatively cool year, giving wines added elegance and moderate alcohol. Le Chiuse 2013 offers a wine with a deep aroma; a brilliant, intense taste; full body; and lovely, lingering finish. Medium-blodied Il Palazzone 2013 presents a forward nose and a delicious, heady taste with hints of cherry. La Magia 2013, an exquisite wine with dark color, emits a luscious nose that has a floral aspect and a generous, rich flavor. San Polo 2012 Riserva, aged an extra year as a riserva, is everything one would expect of such a wine: a rich, forward, inviting aroma followed by a medium-full body along with a generous, inviting and well-balanced taste. In short, the perfect ending to a Brunello di Montalcino tasting. With its high quality and long aging period, Brunello does not come cheaply. Its prices range about $50–100. Expensive? Yes. A long wait? Yes. But one sip will tell you why Brunello di Montalcino is worth both the price and the wait.
2018 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.
AIRLINE BEST
Overall Best Airline in the World_____________________________________________________ Airline Alliance________________________________________________________________________ Aircraft Type _________________________________________________________________________ Airline Website _______________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing Airline – Trans-Pacific______________________________________________ Best Airline for . . . Business Class___________________________________________________________________ International First Class_________________________________________________________ Domestic First Class_____________________________________________________________ Onboard Service ________________________________________________________________ Lounges _________________________________________________________________________ Flight Attendants________________________________________________________________ Flight Attendant Uniforms ______________________________________________________ Airline Cuisine___________________________________________________________________ Security__________________________________________________________________________ First-Class Seat Design_______________________________________________________________ Business-Class Seat Design _________________________________________________________ Best New Airline Service Launch_____________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Flyer Programs Overall Best Frequent-Flyer Program___________________________________________ Elite-Level Program______________________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion_______________________________________________________________ Award Redemption______________________________________________________________ Customer Service _______________________________________________________________
BEST AIRLINE BY LOCATION Best Airline in . . . Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Australia and New Zealand______________________________________________________ Central/South Asia and India __________________________________________________ China____________________________________________________________________________ Eastern Europe__________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________ Mexico___________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East _________________________________________________________________ North America___________________________________________________________________ North Asia (excluding China)____________________________________________________ The South Pacific________________________________________________________________ To South America and Central America_____________________________________________ To Japan______________________________________________________________________________ Trans-Atlantic Airline_________________________________________________________________ Trans-Pacific Airline__________________________________________________________________
AIRPORT BEST Overall Best Airport in the World____________________________________________________ Overall Best Duty-Free Shop in the World___________________________________________ Airport Staff/Gate Agents____________________________________________________________ Airport Dining________________________________________________________________________ Airport Shopping ____________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing U.S. Airport_________________________________________________________
HOTEL BEST
International Hotel Chain__________________________________________________________ Domestic Hotel Chain______________________________________________________________ Lifestyle Hotel______________________________________________________________________ MICE Hotel _________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) Hotel Club Floor____________________________________________________________________ Hotel Website______________________________________________________________________ New Luxury Hotel in Asia __________________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Stay Programs Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World___________________________________ Elite-Level Program____________________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion_____________________________________________________________ Award Redemption____________________________________________________________ Customer Service_____________________________________________________________
HOTEL BEST BY LOCATION Best Hotel in . . . Asia____________________________________________________________________________ Europe_________________________________________________________________________ South Korea___________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_______________________________________________________________ The United States _____________________________________________________________ Best Hotel Chain in . . . Asia____________________________________________________________________________ Europe_________________________________________________________________________ Latin America__________________________________________________________________ Mexico_________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_______________________________________________________________
OTHER BEST Overseas Delivery Program _______________________________________________________ Rental Car Company_______________________________________________________________ Tourism Destination_______________________________________________________________ MICE City ___________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) WiFi Service_________________________________________________________________________ Noise-Canceling Headset Brand___________________________________________________ Luggage Brand_____________________________________________________________________ Ride Share__________________________________________________________________________ Hotel App___________________________________________________________________________ Airline App__________________________________________________________________________ Credit Cards Best Overall Credit Card___________________________________________________________ Best Small-Business Credit Card __________________________________________________ Best Credit Card Special Events ___________________________________________________ Credit Card Rewards Program_____________________________________________________ Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card ________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card_________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card_______________________________________________
Duty-Free Shops in . . . Asia______________________________________________________________________________ Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_________________________________________________________________
PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO:
Best Airport in . . . Asia______________________________________________________________________________ Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_________________________________________________________________ North America___________________________________________________________________ South America___________________________________________________________________
Name
Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot
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tours
EXTRAORDINARY EXPERIENCES Adventure Life customizes group or individual journeys around the world. BY KRISTY ALPERT
THIS YEAR, MONTANA-BASED travel company Adventure Life celebrates 20 years of bringing countless incredible adventures to life for its courageous and curious clientele. Brian Morgan founded the company in 1998, armed only with a trifold brochure, a master’s degree in economics and a desire to share some of his favorite experiences from his time spent traveling South America. The company has grown into one of the most respected travel agencies on the planet, with Brian and his team of 20 operating more like a concierge service for clients rather than a traditional tour company. Adventure Life specializes in creating personalized itineraries that highlight remote locations, local culture, wildlife encounters and private access. The team is just as likely to book a homestay with a cultural focus as it is to send guests on once-in-a-lifetime eco-luxury adventures to Antarctica. “We can arrange these as private journeys, small group tours or expedition voyages in locations around the world like the Galápagos Islands, the Amazon, Patagonia, Antarctica, the Arctic or Africa,” explains Morgan, the company’s CEO as well as founder. “We’re also committed to responsible travel [which includes] everything from partnering with local guides, biologists, historians and gourmet chefs to offering volunteer experiences and giving back to the communities we visit.” Most of the itineraries Adventure Life lists on its website are best viewed as examples, as each journey is customized for clients based on their desires. Top destinations include the
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Galápagos Islands, Antarctica, Peru and Patagonia, but the company also boasts the largest selection of river cruises in Europe, with a growing number of offerings across Africa and Asia. The newest journeys include tracking black rhinos in Namibia and cruising on small barges in Italy, France and the Netherlands. The planning process begins with a member of the Adventure Life team inquiring about the client’s personal interests and preferences for travel, or even just within a specific destination. They then narrow down a list of operators and adventures based on their personal experiences, so they can present clients with a custom-printed catalog showing the best options available. “Our staff has a deep knowledge and experience in the places we visit,” Morgan adds. “This comes from years of volunteering in rural Africa and Central America, research trips in Asia, studying in Europe, guiding in the Rockies and just bouncing around every corner of the world. We also offer employees a travel education benefit so they can fulfill their wanderlust while learning about the destinations we offer and better present them to clients.” Groups and individual clients booking with Adventure Life have come to expect a truly curated experience, where anything is possible on these tailored journeys. The company even encourages clients to bring them an idea to have the team find destinations, accommodations and activities that will exceed their expectations.
AROUND THE WORLD:
Machu Picchu, Peru, tour (left), black rhinos in Namibia (top), and Brian Morgan in Antarctica PHOTOS: © ADVENTURE LIFE
Life nture Adve y nuall conti s rche resea ions and nat desti n-site so make sure to en d s t i s i v an tures ns n e v ad tio moda accom o-date. p-t are u
PHOTOS: © DEMERZEL21 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © VLAD GHIEA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © RAWPIXELIMAGES | DREAMSTIME.COM, © DAVID TULCHINSKY | DREAMSTIME.COM, © JULIE HAUPIN, © ROXANA GONZALEZ | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ALEKSANDR STEPANOV | DREAMSTIME.COM, © KAITLIND EYDELLOTH, © ASSAF PINCHUK
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spas
COZY COMFORT Retreat to the serenity of The Ritz-Carlton Spa, Chicago. BY KIMBERLY KROL
AHHHH, SPA: The RitzCarlton Spa lobby PHOTO: © THE RITZ-CARLTON, CHICAGO
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IT WAS JANUARY IN CHICAGO. Needless to say, it was frigid, especially on Michigan Avenue, close to Lake Michigan, with the winds off the lake absolutely chilling. The thought of my late-afternoon spa visit at The Ritz-Carlton, Chicago warmed my soul as I ran between various areas of downtown Chicago for business meetings. Overall, my entire overnight visit to the recently revitalized and iconic Chicago property was cozy, comfortable and a warming contrast to the extremely cold outdoor temperatures. In July 2017 The Ritz-Carlton, Chicago debuted its multimilliondollar refurbishment, inspired by the bold architecture of the city and showcasing panoramic skyline views and an exceptional permanent art collection. My suite’s multiple rooms each boasted stunning views out to the lake and recognizable Chicago landmarks like the Ferris wheel at Navy Pier. My favorite piece of artwork was Roy Lichtenstein’s Wallpaper with Blue Floor Interior in the ground-floor lobby. Other hallmarks of the redesign include the Flying Wave, a floating structure made of four types of handblown glass in the lobby; more than 25,000 square feet of renovated event space, including The
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Ritz-Carlton Ballroom; and the addition of Torali, Italian – Steak, a modern steakhouse concept on the 12th floor. But The Ritz-Carlton Spa was top of my mind that afternoon; it also recently underwent a facelift. Elements of stone and walnut complement a soothing color palette, a reflection of the nearby shores of Lake Michigan. Hydration-inspired treatments provide nourishment and revival, including a high-powered antioxidant facial, a full-body glow treatment and targeted muscle recovery massages for athletes. The facility includes five treatment rooms, a men’s and women’s steam room and a brand-new nail salon; the products used are exclusively ESPA natural skincare. I’ve visited several ESPA-branded spas and facilities that utilize the brand’s products. Each time, I’ve been pleased with the after-effects, seeing both short-term and long-term, lasting results. My experience at The Ritz-Carlton, Chicago was no exception. ESPA products work from the inside out, combining holistic well-being philosophies with the work of biochemists, skin experts, dermatologists and aromatherapists. Products combine plant actives,
marine actives and essential oils into all-natural options that work naturally with your skin for immediate benefits and lasting effects. My therapist was waiting at the spa reception check-in desk when I arrived, and she personally escorted me to the locker room. With the spa, pool and fitness center centralized in one location, it was a bit busy. I quickly changed into my luxurious robe and made my way back to the lobby, where my therapist again waited to lead me to the treatment room. Reception separates the changing/pool area and the treatment rooms. I was scheduled for an 80-minute custom facial, beginning with a skin analysis. Overall, I’m lucky. I don’t have major skin issues — my normal skin isn’t generally too oily or dry, and I rarely have serious breakouts. Blackheads are relegated to the normal T-zone, but I still bristled slightly when my therapist mentioned extractions. But as much as they hurt, they are necessary for the skin, so I agreed. She was quick and, overall, it was relatively painless — extractions were needed only on my chin and around my nose. One area of contention I do have is my dark under-eye
circles, which you know if you’ve read my Spas articles with any regularity. When I mentioned this to my therapist, she made a suggestion — one I’d never heard before despite a fair number of facials in which I’d brought up the same subject. As the skin around the eyes is thin and covers lots of blood vessels, she suggested I may rub too harshly to remove my makeup, essentially “bruising” my under-eye skin. I am more aware of my scrubbing techniques now, and I definitely notice a difference. My facial, designed to purify, hydrate, brighten and smooth my complexion, also involved a deep brush cleanse; a facial exfoliation; a face mask; and a head, neck and scalp massage. One word: decadent. My therapist described each step to me and every product she used, but I must admit I can’t remember all the details. I was totally relaxed during the treatment, which obviously benefitted not only my skin but also my psyche. With business done in Chicago, it was time to gather my bags and head to O’Hare International Airport for my night flight to Philadelphia. I arrived home just a little more dewy and freshfaced than I left.
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SOOTHING THE SENSES: The Ritz-Carlton Spa PHOTOS: © THE RITZ-CARLTON, CHICAGO
The Ritz-Carlton, Chicago Water Tower Place 160 E. Pearson St. Chicago, IL 60611 tel 312 266 1000 ritzcarlton.com
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wealth
THE TOLL TAX
PRIOR TO THE ENACTMENT of the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act, the United States was one of the few developed nations operating on a worldwide system of taxation. This tax regime, coupled with some of the highest statutory corporate tax rates in the world, created a far less attractive business environment for U.S. companies operating in an increasingly global economy. With little incentive to bring foreign earnings back to the United States for reinvestment, many American companies retained foreign earnings offshore to avoid paying U.S. taxes imposed upon repatriation. In an effort to incentivize U.S. companies to repatriate foreign earnings and increase U.S. investment and job growth, the new tax reform adopts a modified territorial tax regime, effective for the 2018 and subsequent tax years. This new system of taxation provides a 100 percent exemption from U.S. corporate taxation for dividends received by a 10 percent U.S. corporate shareholder from certain foreign corporations. In preparation for this transition to a modified
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territorial tax regime, the new tax law provides for a mandatory repatriation tax (“toll tax”) imposed upon undistributed nonpreviously taxed foreign earnings and profits, effective for tax years of foreign corporations beginning before Jan. 1, 2018. All 10 percent U.S. shareholders of foreign corporations with positive pre-2018 accumulated E&P must include in income this E&P amount, subject to U.S. tax at reduced rates. The toll tax is payable over eight years at the taxpayer’s election. It is important to note that, in contrast to the 100 percent dividend exemption applicable only to U.S. corporate shareholders, the toll tax applies to all U.S. shareholders. S corporation shareholders, however, may elect to defer the toll tax until a triggering event occurs. For calendar year foreign corporations, the toll tax (or first installment if eight-year payout is elected) must be paid with the 2017 tax return, without regard to extensions. When the E&P subject to the toll tax are actually distributed to the U.S. shareholders in 2018 and subsequent years, they will not be subject to U.S. tax a second time.
PHOTO: © SERGEY KHAKIMULLIN | DREAMSTIME.COM
Who must comply with the new repatriation transition tax?
© 2018 Cunard. Ships’ Registry: Bermuda.
The original transatlantic — Only on Cunard.
SM
From our iconic Transatlantic Crossings to our epic World Voyages and exciting Europe itineraries, a journey with Cunard is an escape into an unrivaled world of freedom and possibility, with as much or as little to do as you please. Contact your Travel Agent, call (800) 728-6273 or visit Cunard.com
MAY 2018
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golf
AN OLD FAVORITE Return to play a round at Long Bay Golf Club, but watch out for snakes.
HOP AND A SKIP: Hole 13
PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER
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LONG BAY GOLF CLUB is a regular on our annual trip to Myrtle Beach, as it offers challenging features including long traps and a fierce 18th hole. And if you are a herpetologist, you will find the surrounding rough and nearly every pond a garden of creatures to study. On just about every par 3, we spotted five to six snakes swimming away from us as we approached, and much to my surprise, a gigantic rat snake rested right by the hole marker on 15. Aside from the wildlife, this Jack Nicklaus “Golden Bear” Renowned Signature Design Course has some tricks for players at every turn. The secret to success at Long Bay, besides long pants, is to realize traps front many of the holes and, for the most part, there is room behind the greens. So be sure to take enough club, as you will likely land in the sand otherwise. In addition, the course can be a shot maker, as there are some narrow openings and hazards to avoid. In fact, some in my group refer to Long Bay as the “secondshot course,” where often you can drive away, but then you need to
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BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER
reel in your excitement and control the second shot to the green. Nicklaus used bunkers to sculpt the course and added fairway moguls and mounding to create an appealing view from tee to green. Aerial shots of the fairways clearly show the difficulty caused by Nicklaus’ vision. For the round I paired with John Ecklund, IBM executive; Mike Donahue, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Advisory Board chairman; and my brother, Gerry Gallagher.
HOLE 1 | 408 yards, par 4
Sometimes guys like the Golden Bear ease you into a challenging course with a more straightforward hole. The first hole let us warm up to what was in store. From the tee box you can slam away to a wide fairway; and even if you venture too far left, your shot is still playable. The right side, on the other hand, is a woody disaster. All four proved the late night before had no effect on our swings, and we were safely spread out on the fairway, ready to attack the green.
The green features one trap front center and one back center right. John hit a near-perfect shot to the center of the green, with the rest of us spraying and chipping on for bogie.
HOLE 2 | 568 yards, par 5
Even from the white tee markers the second hole measures some 524 yards, so this is a bear of a hole by the Golden Bear. But free of snakes, so that’s a plus! Two has a nasty waste bunker on the left that starts 130 yards from the green and then sneaks in front — this bunker caught Mike, and we thought we might never see him again. Although the fairways are somewhat generous, the woods can come into play. Gerry found this out in his drive when he decided to try John’s “big dog driver.” A line drive into the woods is not the best plan of play. I was able to put together a nice drive: A beautiful three wood and an approach right of the green offered me a clean chip and then par.
HOLE 6 | 394 yards, par 4
Gerry took to the tee; and although his game might not have been the most beautiful thing to watch, he sure dressed well in a yellow sweater and coordinating shorts. The sixth hole has a tight fairway landing area with an unfriendly tree hugging the right side, making the perfect turn to the fairway difficult. Add the three fairway bunkers down the left side and a two-tiered green and you can see why challenges beset the team. A trick shot from Mike skedaddled through the trees on the right and set him up for a great par on a tough hole. Maybe he was not as fashionable as Gerry, but
as they say, there are no pictures on the scorecard.
BEAUTY AND THE BEAST:
HOLE 13 | 156 yards, par 3
Water, water everywhere, and lots of sidewinders to boot — a challenging par 3 with a championship design. A near-island green and lucky 13 makes for an opportunity for a golf shot. I took a lower route to the green, blading my shot and skipping it across the pond, nearly beheading one of my scaly swimming friends. Much to the delight of the greens crew who were cutting the grass and waiting for us to pass, the ball had enough power to skip out and land on the edge of the green. Cheers broke out and so did many a high five. The poor little bridge became a victim of John as he torpedoed a shot left, bouncing not as close as I, but chippable. A dent on the railing will remain for years.
Gerry on Hole 5 (left), and (right) Fran's nemesis PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER
HOLE 15 | 492 yards, par 5
Fifteen has to be included due to the massive snake we saw near the marker next to the green. I let out a high-pitched scream when I noticed the serpent slithering at my feet. The hole, henceforward forever dubbed “Snake Alley,” has a narrow throat to the landing area. Adrenalin still pumping, I slammed a shot long and to the left side, a good position to open up the fairway. A creek runs to the right across the fairway about 190 yards from the green. It continues on the right side and is not visible from the tee box. Snake Alley was a challenging hole, and the weather began to darken as we came to the final three holes. Fortunately, we completed the game before the storm started, carding another memorable round at Long Bay — snakes or no snakes! MAY 2018
Long Bay Golf Club 350 FoxTail Dr. Longs, SC 29568 tel 843 399 2222 longbaygolfclub.com
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chefs
CULINARY TRADITION Chef Eduardo Torres serves a modern take on Mexican cuisine at NIZUC Resort & Spa’s RAMONA.
Which destinations inspired you, and how has that inspiration translated into your culinary concepts? I am from Veracruz, a city located on the Gulf Coast of Mexico. The food in this area is tasteful, authentic and filled with tradition. Highlights include seafood, meat, vegetables, fruits and assorted cheeses. Given this background, I always ensure the menus I curate only include fresh ingredients and local products. Also, the gastronomy from Oaxaca is one of my favorites, especially because of the moles — there are so many to choose from! In general, I find my inspiration in the rich variety of Mexican cuisine.
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Whom do you consider to be your culinary hero? I try to learn from all and constantly stay updated in what some of the masters do. However, I respect and like the way French chefs maintain their traditions and structure. What one person most influenced your cooking style? It all begins with my mom and her kitchen. The sounds, the flavors … this was what first inspired me to become a chef. Professionally, my influence is Sylvain Desbois, maître cuisinier de France and executive chef, NIZUC Resort & Spa. He is respect-
ful with the process of cooking, the ingredients and the people. He is a good leader and also a great friend of mine. What is your favorite food city? Mexico City — you can truly find anything there. From informal street food to the finest restaurants, there are so many choices for Mexican cuisine and even from around the world. What do you think the next big trend on the food scene will be? The next big trend will be back to basics, where when you are eating, you can identify the ingredients and you feel the flavors. These ingredients would, of course, be fresh, naturally grown and something local communities would benefit from. At least, this is what I would like the next food trend to be: a more natural and balanced food scene. RAMONA NIZUC Hotel and Resort Blvd. Kukulcan Mz 59 Lote 1-03 Km 21.26 Nizuc, 77500 Cancún, Q.R. Mexico tel 52 998 891 5700 nizuc.com
PHOTOS: ©NIZUC RESORT & SPA
EDUARDO TORRES DEFINES HIS CULINARY STYLE as “sincere cuisine.” Today visitors to RAMONA, the signature restaurant at NIZUC Resort & Spa, can indulge for themselves in the thoughtfully crafted, contemporary Mexican cuisine of Torres, who recently took the helm at the eatery. With vast education and experience, from French cuisine to the art of pastry making, it’s traditional Mexican cooking that resonates the most with the chef. His refreshed menu at RAMONA will showcase authentic recipes, inspiring flavors and a personal touch. Torres joins the team at RAMONA following stints at Le Méridien Cancún, St. Regis Punta Mita, Le Basilic Cancún, Hilton Mexico City and St. Regis Mexico City. Opened in 2013, NIZUC Resort & Spa calls a former base station for Maya astronomers home. The 29-acre beachfront escape, 15 minutes from Cancún International Airport, boasts a Maya ethos throughout its 274 guestrooms and villas, public areas and site-specific architecture. On-site amenities include multiple pools; a 30,000-square foot ESPA facility; six restaurants; and two secluded white-sand beaches, all near the region’s natural wonders, archaeological sites and the world’s first Underwater Art Museum.
BY KIMBERLY KROL
W E LC O M E
H O M E
Experience the newly redesigned rooms, suites and villas complemented by residential comfort, contemporary furnishings and legendary Peninsula service.
9 8 8 2 S O U T H S A N TA M O N I C A B O U L E VA R D, B E V E R LY H I L L S , C A 9 0 212 , U S A
T E L : + 1 310 5 51 2 8 8 8
E-MAIL: PBH@PENINSULA.COM
H O N G KO N G • S H A N G H A I • B E I J I N G • TO K YO • N E W YO R K • C H I C A G O • B E V E R LY H I L L S • PA R I S • B A N G KO K • M A N I L A Under Development LO N D O N • I S TA N B U L • YA N G O N • peninsula.com
cruising
MAKING WAVES Sail the high seas in high luxury with Seabourn. BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER
malle of s m o t i g its ep fferin is the o n n r e u v o ,e Seab and uising n dem ry cr o u x r u a l i av ship . free c ytime ngers e s re, an s e a h p w y an wide, shipLEGACY OF LUXURY:
Seabourn Quest at sea (left), and pool deck (right) PHOTOS: © SEABOURN
BILLING ITSELF AS “the world’s finest ultra-luxury cruise line,” Seabourn celebrates its 30th anniversary this year and remains highly popular with passengers seeking modern, understated elegance. Its far-flung all-inclusive cruises visit more than 170 UNESCO World Heritage sites from Australia and Asia to the Mediterranean and the Caribbean. Each of its ships accommodates just 458–600 guests, all staterooms are suites with spacious bathrooms and walk-in closets, most drinks are complimentary, gratuities are included, waiting lines are kept to a minimum, and service is intensively personalized — all in keeping with the founders’ intent to create a yacht-like atmosphere. Starting this year, Seabourn enhances its spa and wellness offerings with a new program designed by Dr. Andrew Weil emphasizing yoga and meditation. It is also opening the doors to a new specialty restaurant, The Grill by Thomas Keller, featuring American dishes from the 1950s and 1960s (at no extra charge). On stage it will present new shows created by Tim Rice, composer of songs for Broadway’s Aladdin and The Lion King. Meanwhile, Seabourn’s five-ship fleet continues to enhance its itineraries worldwide. Seabourn Odyssey heads to Europe this summer after 18 weeklong cruises in the Caribbean. Seabourn Quest spends autumn in Canada and New England before turning south to the Panama Canal, Antarctica and the Amazon. And after completing cruises in New Zealand, Australia and the South Pacific, a third ship, the year-old Seabourn Encore, sails the summer of 2019 in Europe and the Mediterranean.
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For guests preferring longer voyages and more exotic ports of call, a fourth ship, Seabourn Sojourn, offers world cruises of up to 128 days that can be booked in shorter segments or as a single package. Sojourn’s next long sojourn begins Oct. 15 in Los Angeles, with notable ports of call across Oceania, Africa and Asia. Similar extended explorations aboard the aptly named Seabourn Sojourn are available for 2019. The recent launch of Seabourn’s fifth ship, the 600-passenger Seabourn Ovation, enriches these options as the luxury cruise line enters its fourth decade. Boasting even more deck space and expanded public areas, Ovation will spend its inaugural season in the Mediterranean and Europe before steering a course through the Middle East to India, Sri Lanka and Singapore. This winter, Ovation conducts five 14night cruises between Singapore and Hong Kong, followed in March 2019 by voyages to Dubai and Athens, where a second European season begins in late April. With a more full roster of familiar and exotic locations than ever before, Seabourn positions itself as a top choice for cruise passengers wanting to explore the world in truly exceptional style.
DISCOVER THE BEAUTY OF THE
Philippines
Kayangan Lake Coron, Palawan
Enjoy non-stop flights to the Philippines from Los Angeles, San Francisco and Honolulu. We also fly from New York via Vancouver. Walk on white sand beaches, swim in clear blue waters and explore the many wonders our islands have to offer. Enjoy a comfortable flight experience with our delicious inflight meals, 2-piece free baggage allowance up to 23kgs each, in-seat video, Wi-fi access, mobile connectivity and more personal space where you can relax. We fly non-stop to Manila from San Francisco daily. Have a heartwarming travel experience with the airline that celebrates the Heart of the Filipino. PHILIPPINEAIRLINES.COM |
flyPAL | 1-800-435-9725 (1-800-I-FLY-PAL) | VISIT YOUR NEAREST TRAVEL AGENT
feature
GT CHRISTMAS PARTY
CAST OF THE OFFICE AT THE GT TESTED AWARDS
IVANA TRUMP AT THE GT TESTED AWARDS
PUMPKIN CARVING
DRIVING IN IRELAND
GLOBILITY AWARD
200 and Counting The GT team marks another milestone issue with reflections on travel. WE CELEBRATE OUR MILESTONE 200TH ISSUE with a countdown of some of our most memorable travel moments and our personal recommendations. Delve into 200 anecdotes, memories and stories from those of us behind the pages of Global Traveler.
20 GLOBAL TRAVELER MEMORIES
1. Meeting the celebrity speakers at various GT Tested Reader Survey awards 2. The thrill of seeing the first GT issue 3. Winning the Globility Award 4. First meeting the GT staff in New York City 5. Editorial lunch meeting atop the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills in 2017 6. Running through torrential rain in Michigan at our annual sales conference 7. Popping a bottle of Dom Perignon with the team after the Wines on the Wing event 8. Dinner at Club 33 in Disneyland, Anaheim, Calif. 9. The incredible holiday dinner at the Union
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League (and the cigar room after) 10. Team-building events, from a Philadelphia mural tour to a pumpkin-carving competition and a meatball showdown 11. Experiencing the Cherokee Club in Atlanta 12. Almost having to drive at least 16 hours back to Philadelphia from Chicago due to weather delays but being saved by Southwest Airlines 13. Driving down Sunset Boulevard with colleagues in a limo to Grauman’s Chinese Theatre while one colleague stood up in the sunroof freaking out because she was in Hollywood for the first time 14. Five-year anniversary party at the Renaissance Times Square
15. Having time off for the Eagles Super Bowl parade 16. Our 10th anniversary GT Tested Reader Survey awards with Terry Waite at The Peninsula Beverly Hills; now we’re preparing for our 15th 17. Seeing my name on the masthead for the first time and my first bylined article 18. Pedi-cab races on the Atlantic City boardwalk during our first staff conference 19. Dancing the night away with staff and friends at Global Business Travel Association conferences 20. Our first offices in Yardley, and the feeling when we moved into our new complex
GONDOLA RIDE IN VENICE
CAVES IN VIETNAM
PYRAMIDS IN EGYPT
GLACIER ICE IN ICELAND
ALLIGATORS IN FLORIDA
SNORKELING IN MOLOKINI CRATER
20 TRAVEL EXPERIENCES WE RECOMMEND
.COM, © LIFEOFRILEY | DREAMSTIME.COM
OTTAUNICK, © TRACEY CULLEN, © CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK, © ALTEZZA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © DIMITRIOS TIMPILIS | DREAMSTIME
TILLMANNS | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ANDRE KLAASSEN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © GHM MEUFFELS | DREAMSTIME.COM, © CHRISTOPHER P.
PHOTO: © CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK, ASHLEY RICHARDS, FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER, © SBORISOV | DREAMSTIME.COM, © CLAUDIA
WESTMINSTER ABBEY
1. Traveling to Disneyland or Disney World 2. Alligator spotting in Florida 3. Riding a gondola through the canals of Venice 4. Renting a car and driving through the countryside in Ireland 5. A long-distance train ride 6. Easter Mass at Westminster Abbey in London 7. Glass blowing in Murano, Italy 8. Harvesting wine grapes in Italy 9. Snorkeling in Molokini Crater in Maui 10. Culinary food tours in Mexico City 11. Celebrating New Year’s Eve in another country 12. A sunset cruise in Santoríni (Sunset-Oia semi-private tours) 13. Touring glaciers in Iceland 14. Traveling solo at least once 15. Learning to surf in Sydney, Australia 16. Visiting the pyramids in Egypt 17. Going on a horseback safari in Kenya 18. Listening to fado in Lisbon 19. Exploring the hidden caves in Vietnam 20. Hiking the sand dunes in the Liwa Desert at sunrise
20 TRAVEL TIPS AND TRICKS FROM THE GT STAFF
1. Always pack more socks then you think you will need. 2. Try to find outfits that go with one pair of shoes so you don’t need to pack five different pairs. 3. Make a photocopy of your passport and driver’s license and keep it separate from your originals. 4. Spend some time on every trip just walking around the area to soak in the feel. 5. Pack neutral clothing to mix and match during your trip. 6. Get up early, stay out late. 7. Engage in conversation with anyone you can in a new destination: shopkeepers, wait staff, doormen, drivers, school kids, folks on a park bench. 8. Don’t be afraid to experience adventures solo. 9. Roll clothes when packing. 10. Download entertainment to iPads and phones.
11. Always carry on if you can. 12. Apply for Global Entry or TSA PreCheck for an expedited airport experience. 13. Look into credit cards without foreign transaction fees for when you travel abroad. 14. Smile first; you’ll usually get a smile in return. 15. Don’t forget the chargers for electronic devices. 16. Carry something warm like a shawl or sweater for the plane. 17. Allow plenty of time for delays. 18. Always have cold medicine and other medication for emergencies. 19. Bring cash and make sure you have local currency. 20. Underpack; you can always buy.
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LOMBOK, INDONESIA
1. Augusta, Maine 2. Anywhere in Cambodia 3. Houston, Texas 4. Milwaukee, Wis. 5. Oban, Scotland 6. Walla Walla, Wash. 7. Pettoranello del Molise, Italy 8. San Antonio, Texas 9. Granada, Spain 10. The Finger Lakes, N.Y. 11. Lombok, Indonesia 12. Annapolis, Md. 13. Luxembourg City 14. Nairobi, Kenya 15. Virginia Beach, Va. 16. Stowe, Vt. 17. Colorado Springs, Colo. 18. Lviv, Ukraine 19. Ribera del Duero, Spain 20. Sukhothai, Thailand
SUKHOTHAI, THAILAND
20 TRAVEL MOMENTS THAT CHANGED OUR LIVES 1. The plane ride to China is unbelievably long; shows how large our planet really is. 2. 9/11 — need we say more? 3. Traveling on my own for the first time 4. After a rough life stretch, several friends and I traveled to remote Canada for a week of fishing, hiking and relaxation. 5. Being in New Orleans just weeks before Hurricane Katrina 6. 24 hours spent in Ireland without a hotel 7. Meeting a Māori artist/woodcarver in his studio in Auckland 8. Touring the DMZ on the South and North Korean border — the sense of danger is real. 9. Attending my cousin’s wedding in Italy, where the ceremony and reception lasted more than 12 hours 10. Seeing the sunset from the water over the caldera in Santoríni 11. My first trip to Europe: spending a month abroad in Spain during college 12. Service travel trips to the Bahamas to rebuild a home for a foster mother 13. College road trips with both of my sons 14. Staggered by the engineering feat of the pyramids 15. Seeing African wildlife in its own habitat and not in a zoo 16. Petra, Jordan 17. Taking my first cruise on Royal Caribbean 18. Seeing for myself the devastation of Chernobyl, even 30 years later, and better understanding the tragedy 19. Savoring unbelievable sunsets and sunrises around the world 20. A Disney World trip with my grandmother as a child, staying in my first “fancy” hotel, the Grand Floridian
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COLORADO SPRINGS, COLORADO
DMZ, KOREAN BORDER
PHOTOS: © ALEKSANDER TODOROVIC | DREAMSTIME.COM, © RAFAÅ, CICHAWA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © FOTOEYE75 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © CHRISPYPHOTO | DREAMSTIME.COM
20 UNDERRATED CITIES AROUND THE WORLD YOU SHOULD VISIT NOW
20 TOURIST ATTRACTIONS WORTH THE CROWDS
PHOTOS: © RON SUMNERS | DREAMSTIME.COM, © JANICE HECHT, © ANNYSERF | DREAMSTIME.COM, © WISCONSINART | DREAMSTIME.COM, © JASON DREWSEN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ATLANTIS, PARADISE ISLAND
NIAGARA FALLS
1. Times Square, New York City 2. Walt Disney World/Disneyland 3. Niagara Falls 4. The Las Vegas Strip 5. The Louvre in Paris 6. Temple Bar in Dublin 7. The Duomo in Florence 8. The Acropolis, Athens, Greece 9. The Colosseum, Rome 10. Santoríni, Greece 11. St. Peter’s Basilica/Sistine Chapel 12. Any museum in New York City 13. The Blue Lagoon in Iceland 14. Running of the Bulls, Pamplona 15. Bondi Coastal Walk 16. Blarney Castle — everyone has to kiss the stone at least once 17. Egyptian pyramids 18. Taj Mahal 19. Windsor Palace (anywhere in London) 20. Oktoberfest in Germany
20 HOTELS YOU NEED TO VISIT
KISSING THE BLARNEY STONE
THE TAJ MAHAL
OKTOBERFEST IN GERMANY
GIRAFFE MANOR, KENYA
1. The Peninsula Beverly Hills 2. Atlantis, Paradise Island, Bahamas 3. Giraffe Manor, Nairobi Kenya 4. The Setai Miami Beach 5. The Empress Hotel, Victoria, British Columbia 6. The Peninsula Hong Kong 7. Raffles Singapore 8. Monarch Beach Resort, Dana Point, Calif. 9. The Breakers Palm Beach 10. Four Seasons Bora Bora 11. Marina Bay Sands, Singapore 12. Divi Little Bay Beach Resort, Sint Maarten 13. George V, Paris 14. The Ritz Madrid 15. The Goring, London 16. Lotte Seoul 17. ME Miami 18. Mandarin Oriental, New York 19. Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara, Abu Dhabi 20. Abadia Retuerta LeDomaine, Valladolid, Spain
20 OF OUR FAVORITE TRAVEL MOVIES, BOOKS AND MUSIC TO INSPIRE YOUR WANDERLUST
ATLANTIS, PARADISE ISLAND
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
Lord of the Rings The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel Everest The Secret Life of Walter Mitty Under the Tuscan Sun (book and movie) Call Me by Your Name Wild (book and movie) Lost in Translation The Accidental Tourist
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COWS IN IRELAND
10. Planes, Trains and Automobiles 11. Out of Africa 12. Chef 13. Travels with Charley by John Steinbeck 14. The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho 15. Letters from the Andes by Patrick Fermor 16. Ireland by Frank Delaney 17. “Ventura Highway” by America 18. “Born to Be Wild” by Steppenwolf 19. “Sedona” by Houndmouth 20. “Go” by Louis the Child
20 FUNNY TRAVEL STORIES 1. When I went to China with my high school choir, people kept taking pictures with my brother and me, saying, “Look, the Jonas Brothers!” 2. On our first drive around Ireland, we were flagged down by a local farmer who warned us to pull off the narrow, stone-lined road into his driveway. He said, “The cows are coming, and they can be quite severe.” We had no idea what that meant, but we listened. The car behind us did not and was quickly engulfed by a herd of cows, almost knocking the mirrors off. 3. Accidentally running into a great friend in Las Vegas when neither of us knew the other was there 4. Flying to Greece and missing my flight by going to the wrong airport in London 5. My luggage zipper busting and my clothes circling around the baggage carousel 6. On a hiking trip we spotted large hoof prints in the mud of the trail and speculated they belonged to elk, only to come around a bend in the trail and come face to face with a large cow chewing its cud. 7. Accidentally renting a “hotel room” that was just a bed patrons in the restaurant below us would sleep in when they had too much to drink.
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8. When we frantically rushed to the train we thought we were missing in Rome, only to realize we were rushing for church bells, not train horns 9. Attempting to walk down the Donkey Path in Santoríni only to be so grossed out by donkeys and their droppings that we gave up very quickly 10. Accidentally taking the harder trail on a hike in Runyon Canyon with Kimberly Krol 11. Having a wallaby bite my finger instead of the food I was trying to feed it 12. I left the key in our room at a B&B, and, like a cat burglar, I climbed into our room from a second-story porch at midnight because the owners were not available. 13. In Reykjavík I unintentionally ate raw whale blubber at a traditional Icelandic buffet, thinking it was cubes of cheese. I’m not a fan of raw whale blubber. 14. In Paris I loaded film in my 35mm camera but didn’t realize until the next day the film did not advance, so I never really took pictures from the top of Notre Dame or the Eiffel Tower. I stick to digital photography now. 15. Nearly being escorted off a flight because I refused to give up my seat for a duplicate ticket 16. Having a python thrown on my shoulders in Miami Beach 17. Having to run through a monsoon in Nassau, the Bahamas 18. Traveling to London to see Adele at Wembley Stadium only to land to the news she’d canceled her shows, and making the best of the experience despite the letdown 19. Changing into a tux for a country wedding in Australia along a deserted road in a vast, treeless expanse with three other people, and, just when we were down to our skivs, three cars driving by packed with people going to the same wedding, all shouting “G’day” to us
WALLABY IN AUSTRALIA 20. On a pony trek in County Sligo a horse unerringly took us to the best pub in each village we visited.
20 REASONS WE’RE GRATEFUL TO BE GLOBAL TRAVELERS 1. The great atmosphere all of the global travelers create 2. Amazing trips to new places with fun people and opening your eyes to different cultures 3. Learning from smart individuals how to better myself 4. Experiencing adventures you would never have at home 5. Traveling gives you the chance to unwind and unplug (many great memories) 6. Making new friends 7. Dining on regional delicacies 8. Passport stamps 9. The chance to see incredible works of art and architecture and stunning natural beauty 10. Every work day and trip is a new experience. 11. Working in an environment with a great sense of humor 12. I can become a citizen of the world. 13. Bringing home locally made items from other countries 14. Gaining new perspectives and an appreciation of the larger world 15. Great colleagues 16. People envy you for working for a travel magazine. 17. The creativity the team has; we are always open to a new challenge. 18. Bleisure opportunities around every corner 19. Feeling proud every time a new issue of the magazine arrives, hot off the presses 20. When coworkers become family and you get to share unique experiences with them
PHOTOS: © ASHLEY RICHARDS, © TRACEY CULLEN, © JULIE HAUPIN
PYTHON IN MIAMI
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
Asia’s Best Luxury Hotel
Within eight months of opening, Signiel Seoul racked up accolades and achieved goals. SIGNIEL SEOUL HOTEL is making a mark. Just eight months after its opening, the 5-star property earned raves and recognition, including being named Best New Luxury Hotel in Asia by the readers of Global Traveler. The accolades continue. The hotel opened April 3, 2017, on floors 76–101 of the world’s second-highest skyscraper, Lotte World Tower. Unprecedented high rates of revisits to Signiel Seoul further prove the astonishing level of customer satisfaction. Signiel Seoul not only exceeds in providing breathtaking views from some of the
highest points on the globe, but also in surpassing luxury standards in the hotel industry. The Grand Ballroom, 324 meters above sea level and dubbed “the world’s highest place,” is the ideal venue for a wedding. Befitting its status, the hotel’s function space has been in high demand with leading corporations. In fact, Signiel Seoul reached its revenue goals for events in its first year and the for-members-only Fitness Club closed membership recruitment early. The restaurants also shine. More than 57,000
diners visited STAY Seoul, led by Michelin-starred French chef Yannick Alléno. Its pastry-baking demonstration corner and Pastry Library Showcase, firsts in South Korea, consistently earn raves. The restaurant is a true city hot spot. The Sushi Bar, on the highest floor, continues to garner attention for its noteworthy cuisine, location and private dining options. On the 107th floor, Signiel Club’s separate entrance attracts worldwide VIPs. “Live beyond expectation.” The Signiel Seoul’s motto has proven effective, as the hotel meets and exceeds the highest of customer expectations. By 2019, high-end travelers will enjoy the premium service and amenities of the Signiel brand in Busan and other major capital cities around the world. Learn more at http://www.lottehotel.com/signielseoul/
hotel update | POSADAS
The Posadas Experience
WHITE ON BLUE: Live Aqua Cancún PHOTO: © POSADAS
The hotel group plans expansion in the Mexican market and beyond. BY JACK GUY IN RECENT DECADES, ECONOMIC REFORMS and trade deals brought about a transformation in Mexico. As the country opened up to new business opportunities and wealth increased, the hospitality industry saw plenty of development. Well-placed to ride the wave, Grupo Posadas flourishes as the leading hotel company in Mexico. Since 1992 the company has been publicly traded, and today it manages nearly 160 hotels with more than 24,000 beds. Posadas focuses on the Mexican hotel market, but it has taken some interesting twists and turns over the course of its history.
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Founder Gastón Azcárraga Tamayo set up the company in 1967 and opened the first hotel in 1970. After steady expansion in Mexico, Posadas bought three Caesar hotels in South America in 1998. However, the experiment in foreign markets was short-lived, and Posadas showed a renewed focus on the Mexican market by selling off its South American properties in 2012. Another interesting episode came in 2005, when Posadas bought the second-largest airline group in Mexico, Mexicana de Aviación. It suspended operations in 2010 following a controversial conflict with staff unions and allegations of asset stripping by the Posadas founder,
who faced legal proceedings. However, the current management and Posadas itself have not been linked to any lawsuits. While these business development efforts didn’t work out, the company now follows an aggressive expansion plan in the Mexican market. “We are concentrating on what we know well, which is operating hotels, developing hotel concepts and brands suited to different situations, and commercializing them so that they are successful,” said José Carlos Azcárraga, CEO, Posadas. In recent years, Posadas added one new hotel to its portfolio per month. One of the ways it has done so is through a franchise model called Gamma that runs under the Fiesta Americana and Fiesta Inn brands. It offers hotel owners and independent chains the opportunity to benefit from the marketing clout of Posadas while allowing their clients to take advantage of the company loyalty program. Hotel owners have the option of continuing to manage operations themselves or letting Posadas take over. “It’s similar to the Ritz model in the United States,” said Azcárraga. “We are doing well with these projects.” Hotels can apply to join the Gamma plan as long as they meet a set of minimum requirements for factors such as comfort and security. The benefits can be massive for small independent hotels that struggle to finance promotion and distribution strategy themselves. At the same time, each property retains its distinctive character. Azcárraga believes consumers want to feel as though they are enjoying a unique experience rather than a homogenized one. “People look for something more personalized that is adapted to their needs,” he said in an interview with CNN. “We want to get away from being a company that offers rooms and become one that provides personal experiences.” Posadas also takes steps to keep up with the latest technology in the sector, signing a February 2018 deal to power operations using the ALICE platform in all of its hotels. The technology will allow for better insights from across the different hotel brands, with the aim of improving the guest experience. ALICE will also allow the company to maintain standards across its portfolio, especially important given the projected growth of the Gamma franchise program. The platform will also track efficiency in dealing with guest requests, with the aim of driving customer service to even higher levels. After a renewed focus on the Mexican market, INTIMATE AND EXPANSIVE:
Grand Fiesta Americana Coral Beach, Cancún romantic beach dinner (top left); Live Aqua Cancún's Siete Restaurant (top right); Grand Fiesta Chapultepec suite (middle); and Fiesta Americana Condesa Cancún (bottom) PHOTOS: © POSADAS
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Posadas recently announced big international plans. The group decided to expand into Cuba and the Dominican Republic, with two hotels expected to open in each country this year. Plans are also afoot for hotels in five U.S. cities. Due to the nature of the communist government in Cuba, the new properties will be financed by the authorities and operated by Posadas. The two all-inclusive properties will be part of the Fiesta Americana brand, with a 633-room hotel in Varadero and a 749-room hotel in Holguin. Both will start operations July 1 and will soon be joined by the 554-room Grand Fiesta Americana in Punta Cana, Dominican Republic. Azcárraga also told Mexican newspaper El Universal about plans to open five hotels in the United States in the next few years. The first will be in Chicago, followed by Los Angeles, Miami, New York and Dallas. According to Enrique Calderón, vice president of hotel operations, Posadas, investors will finance most of the planned hotels. “The majority of the expansion will be financed by third parties because we aren’t that rich,” he said. “In fact, the ownerinvestor groups of many hotels that we manage have shown an interest in continuing to grow with us because they’re happy with the operation, which
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has been good business for them.” Under the expansion plan, Posadas will control 250 hotels with 45,000 rooms by 2020. In 2018 the company plans to add 30 hotels to its portfolio, with the Live Aqua brand a focus. According to Rafael Lizarraga, chief commercial officer, Posadas, Live Aqua is a “modern lifestyle brand” including both resorts and business hotels. “Everything is related to elements and senses,” he told TravelPulse. “When you visit any of our Aqua properties, you’ll immediately perceive a unique aroma that helps you relax and become involved in the Live Aqua experience.” Although there are changes on the horizon in various areas of the business, one thing looks set to remain constant. The Fiesta Rewards loyalty program covers the entire Posadas portfolio, including Gamma properties, and benefits include free nights, a 10 percent discount on public rates and access to exclusive events. Loyal customers can look forward to using their benefits at a growing number of hotels in different countries if Posadas expands as planned. International expansion may help to offset some issues closer to home — for example, the growing wave of violent crime affecting occupancy rates at hotels
in Cancún and the Riviera Maya. At the same time, the Mexican tourist industry is booming, and Posadas stands to benefit if the trend continues. All in all, it’s an exciting time for the group and its customers.
THE EXPLOREAN
Demographic: Couples on honeymoon or looking for a holiday that will last long in the memory Offerings: There are two Explorean properties in the Yucatán Peninsula, with exclusive facilities set in the dramatic surroundings of the Maya jungle. Combine a luxurious stay with adventurous kayaking, cycling or hiking excursions. Highlight: The all-inclusive Explorean Kohunlich, located in the jungle near Cozumel on the border with Belize, offers the ultimate in luxury for adventurous types.
FIESTA AMERICANA
Demographic: Fiesta Americana caters to those who want 5-star luxury with a more casual atmosphere, and many of the properties welcome family groups. Offerings: The brand operates hotels at a whole raft of famous tourist spots throughout Mexico,
including Cancún and Acapulco, plus it will open two new properties in Cuba in 2018. Highlight: Fiesta Americana’s new property in the eastern Cuban town of Holguin boasts 749 rooms and makes a great place for visitors to experience the delights of the Caribbean island.
FIESTA INN
Demographic: Aimed at business travelers who need to be as productive as possible during their stay Offerings: With more than 60 hotels across Mexico, Fiesta Inn is a great choice for those who regularly travel to commercial hubs such as Mexico City and Monterrey. There are also properties in vacation towns such as Cancún which can double as more budget-friendly family accommodations. Highlight: The Fiesta Inn Guadalajara Expo is a great base for business travelers looking to tap into the booming market of Mexico’s secondlargest city.
GAMMA
Demographic: Gamma properties cater to those who want a local experience, wherever they are. Offerings: Each Gamma property is individual
but operated by Grupo Posadas. They offer the character of independent hotels with all of the conveniences of a chain. Highlight: Gamma Mérida El Castellano is situated in the colonial heart of Mérida, capital of Yucatán state. It makes a great base for exploring the city and the colonial haciendas that surround it.
GRAND FIESTA AMERICANA
Demographic: Luxury travelers looking for topquality facilities in an exclusive atmosphere Offerings: With unique amenities and a focus on personalized service, all of the Grand Fiesta Americana properties offer top-notch, 5-star experiences. Highlight: Check in to the Grand Fiesta Americana Chapultepec in Mexico City and escape the noise of the city for a luxurious stay in the middle of the Chapultepec forest.
LIVE AQUA
Demographic: Sophisticated single travelers or couples who want to experience something different Offerings: The Live Aqua brand focuses on small, personal details to make each stay unique. Guests are welcomed by relaxing aromatherapy kits, high-
BUSINESS AND LEISURE:
(Left to right) Grand Fiesta Americana Coral Beach, Cancún exterior and suite; Live Aqua meeting room; Fiesta Inn suite; One guestroom; and Grand Fiesta Americana Suite PHOTOS: © POSADAS
end cuisine and excellent service. Highlight: The Live Aqua Urban Resort in Monterrey offers a self-indulgent place to relax in the Trébol Park development near the financial district of Mexico’s third-largest city.
ONE
Demographic: Budget travelers who want a good night’s sleep before moving on to their next destination Offerings: One properties are now found across Mexico after the first property opened in Monterrey in 2006. Each hotel is conveniently located for budget travelers on any kind of trip. Highlight: Book a stay at the One hotel in Oaxaca City and get to know this fascinating region famous for food and indigenous culture.
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mice | MUNICH
Ultramodern Munich
Unexpected experiences await delegates in Germany’s world-class city. BY REGINA BARABAN
IN ATTENDANCE:
(Left to right) Meeting room at BMW Welt, Jochen Schweizer Arena surf lessons, beer garden at the English Garden, dessert at Jochen Schweizer Arena, and Munich Old Town PHOTOS: © REGINA BARABAN
beer craft l a c o L tting nd ge a s g tastin with wheel e h t d behin ing Driv MW B e h t prove ience r e p x E es tiviti ar ac l u p o p oups. ive gr t n e c n for i
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FROM ITS AWARD-WINNING international airport to its spectacular modern venues, and from its famous beer gardens to its charming Old Town, the vibrant city of Munich offers a singular European experience for international meetings and incentive programs of all sizes. Getting there is easy, with non-stop flights to Munich Airport from most major U.S. cities. Consistently ranked as Europe’s best airport in the annual World Airport Awards from Skytrax, in 2017 Munich Airport was also the first European airport to achieve a 5-star ranking based on such criteria as service, cleanliness and ease of navigation. Like many German cities, Munich rebuilt after heavy bombing in World War II. Today its cityscape and event venues reflect both meticulous historic renovation and the modern face of sleek, contemporary architecture. Streets, parks and promenades buzz with cyclists and strollers, and restaurants offer an array of international dining as well as traditional German dishes and drafts. Munich also reflects Germany’s strong environmental consciousness — think hyper-local honey from city-bred bees.
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“Besides having all the benefits of an ultramodern metropolis, Munich offers visitors an incomparable opportunity to take part in the life of the city,” says Janine David-Steinhart, marketing manager, Incentives & Media Relations, Munich Convention Bureau. “With its world-famous Gemuetlichkeit [cozy feeling of comfort] and colorful traditions, it holds a unique position for professional meetings and authentic incentive programs.” The lively pedestrian Old Town anchors downtown Munich. The streetscape here feels like a charming time capsule, but most of the buildings are, in fact, rebuilds of historic architecture damaged in World War II, including the 14th-century Town Hall. History gives way to modernity at the Museum of Urban and Contemporary Art, a new street art museum housed in a former municipal building whose façade was designed by Berlin-based street artist Stohead. Available for group functions and with a café serving fresh farmto-fork food, it’s a great spot for groups to experience Munich’s lesser-known contemporary culture. For top-tier incentive programs, the elegant 340room Bayerischer Hof in the heart of the city will not disappoint. Owned by the same family for more than
UNIQUE VENUES Munich offers many spectacular venues with copious conference space and interesting storylines. “You can surprise your delegates in Munich with unexpected experiences like climbing the rooftop of the Olympic Stadium or doing leadership training at a state-of-theart equestrian performance and learning park,” says Linda Nuss, regional manager North America, German Convention Bureau.
a hundred years, the historic, 5-star property built circa 1841 housed guests from Franz Kafka to Sigmund Freud to Michael Jackson. It has 40 meeting rooms and can accommodate events for up to 2,500 people. Jan Hartwig, head chef of the hotel’s signature restaurant, Atelier, received three Michelin stars in 2018. Among Munich’s other top meeting-centric hotels is the 484-room Hilton Munich Park, located just outside the city center at the entrance to the Englischer Garten (English Garden), a huge riverfront oasis of greenery, walking paths and beer gardens. The Hilton features a grand ballroom that can accommodate more than 1,000 people; 21 meeting rooms; and a rooftop bar with sweeping views of the park that’s a prime spot for a cocktail reception. No visit to Munich is complete without eating at an authentic Biergarten, and the cozy riverfront Seehaus lies within the English Garden, just a short walk from the hotel. A perfect choice for large events, the iconic Paulaner am Nockherberg beer garden reopened this spring after a head-totoe renovation. It’s suited to all types of group functions with state-of-the-art technical equipment, various entertainment options, beer specialties from the Paulaner brewery and inhouse brewers, and a locally inspired catering menu. Paulaner can accommodate functions for up to 3,000 in its idyllic location replete with a beautiful fountain and shady chestnut trees. Munich’s culinary scene is surprisingly diverse, with refined
international cuisine and healthy options along with hearty Bavarian comfort food such as pot roast and potato dumplings. There’s a wide choice of chef-driven, highly rated restaurants — a total of eight Munich restaurants scored top marks ranging between 17 and 19.5 (out of a possible 20) in the 2018 edition of the Gault-Millau gourmet guide. Groups can even enjoy gourmet dining in singular venues such as the BMW Welt building. Here, in a luxe setting of wood, dark leather and an open fireplace overlooking the expansive BMW shipping hall, Munich native chef Bobby Bräuer serves elegant French cuisine that just earned two Michelin stars in the 2018 guide. For an unforgettable excursion less than two hours outside of the city, groups shouldn’t miss the Romanesque Revival Neuschwantstein Castle, situated in a heart-stopping mountain setting in southwest Bavaria near the Austrian border. Built by King Ludwig II in the late 19th century and the inspiration for Walt Disney’s Cinderella castle, it embodies an over-the-top fairy tale. Munich has many top-tier destination management companies to help set up local events in a wide variety of innovative and interesting venues. For more information and assistance with all Munich has to offer, contact the German Convention Bureau’s North American office at 212 661 4582 or visit the website at gcb.de.
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Sports fans will be blown away by the 75,000-seat Allianz Arena and the Olympic Stadium built for the 1972 Games, where the thrilling, adrenalinpumping roof climb offers expansive views of the city skyline. The Allianz Arena, one of the world’s most well-known soccer stadiums and home to the world-famous Bayern Munich Football Club, makes a stunning first impression with its curved exterior of inflated plastic panels that glows with different colors in the evening, and it boasts many fabulous meeting and event spaces. allianz-arena.com The BMW Welt and Event Forum, a Munich landmark with prize-winning architecture and gorgeous modern meeting space, also impresses. This über-cool building is also where BMW buyers pick up their new vehicles. bmw-welt.com For high-adrenalin activities, groups can head over to Munich’s hip hot spot and event space, Jochen Schweizer Arena, for lessons on everything from body flying to wave surfing, followed by a tasty dinner of modern cuisine.
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PROMOTIONAL HIGHLIGHT
Mandarin Oriental, Taipei exterior
Club Lifestyle Suite
Pool
Café Un Deux Trois
Ya Ge Private Dining Room
A New Era of Luxury Mandarin Oriental, Taipei is the leading luxury hotel in Taiwan with unprecedented indulgence. COMMITTED TO DELIVERING legendary and unparalleled services, Mandarin Oriental, Taipei brings the ultimate in luxury, comfort and indulgence to the city. In early 2017, Mandarin Oriental, Taipei was the first and only hotel in Taiwan to be awarded with two Five-Star honors for its hotel and spa by Forbes Travel Guide. Designed with classic inspiration and contemporary touches, its 256 guestrooms and 47 suites, among the most spacious in Taipei, boast the latest in technology, alongside marble bathrooms and walk-in closets. Ultimately, Mandarin Oriental, Taipei elevated and redefined the definition of luxury in Taiwan. Beyond the sophisticated accommodations, the restaurant and bars showcase innovative concepts and exceptional cuisine. The elegantly
appointed Ya Ge, designed by Tony Chi, serves fine-dining Chinese, while all-day dining Café Un Deux Trois offers international favorites. Heartwarming Italian cuisine is served at Bencotto, with indulgent desserts on offer at Mandarin Cake Shop. The Jade Lounge serves the hotel company’s renowned afternoon tea, and an extensive range of cocktails delight at M.O. Bar. The two-floor spa, the largest among Taiwan’s luxury hotels, relaxes with holistic signature treatments and wellness and beauty programs. A fitness center and outdoor swimming pool complement the 12 treatment rooms. Additionally, the property offers a range of function spaces, meeting the needs of a variety of event types. All this and the 5-star ,award-winning
hotel is in a desirable Taipei location, within the city’s most established business district and nearby key city attractions. This is also the reason why Mandarin Oriental, Taipei has become international celebrities and local VIPs’ preferred choice when traveling. International legends including Madonna, Mila Jovovich, Ryan Reynolds, Hugh Jackman, Patrick Stewart and Tom Cruise; legendary bands The Scorpions, Queens and Coldplay; and the renowned British designer Paul Smith have all chosen to stay at Mandarin Oriental, Taipei as their grand residence in Taipei. To experience Mandarin Oriental, Taipei’s exemplary service, rooms and dining, book the Club Delight offer, designed to pamper travelers at the iconic landmark in one of the world’s great cities. Guests can enjoy luxurious rooms or suites with daily breakfast for two at Oriental Club Lounge, spa service credit of TWD1,000 per stay, complimentary pressing of three garments during the stay and other exclusive benefits. For more information on Taipei’s most desirable address, visit mandarinoriental.com/taipei.
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destination one | GUANGZHOU
Commerce and Culture Guangzhou trades on its reputation as an international business hub. BY ELLEN CLARK
ELEGANT ARCH: Liede Bridge on the Pearl River PHOTO : © ELLEN CLARK
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IT HAD BEEN ALMOST 20 YEARS since my last visit to Guangzhou, China. I remembered it as a laid-back city off the tourist track with hordes of bicycles; streets with single-story, family-owned restaurants and shops; and few English-speaking residents. Have things changed! On my recent drive from the airport into the city, I didn’t recognize a thing. For starters, the city doubled in population from 7 million in 2000 to 14 million in 2017.
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Today you’d take your life in your hands riding a bicycle in downtown Guangzhou, where the number of automobiles causes major congestion and air quality issues. High-rises clog the skyline, and the small-city feel of the late 1990s is but a memory. But one thing hasn’t changed: Guangzhou’s focus on business. Hundreds of years before China peeked from beneath the veil of communism and segued into the capitalist market, and before
COMING AND GOING
U.S. citizens need a visa as well as six months’ validity remaining on their passport.
OFFICIAL LANGUAGE Mandarin
Hong Kong abandoned British rule, Guangzhou, the capital of Guangdong Province, was dedicated to commerce. Perhaps partly due to its proximity to the sea, it has always been an outward-looking city but never known for its beauty. Guangzhou’s charms don’t lie in beautiful buildings and pristine, tree-lined boulevards. Rather, this working city buzzes with energy and verve, and lovely parks, noteworthy museums, picture-perfect temples, fascinating markets and wonderful food relieve urban sprawl. There’s something quirky about this city, starting with its mythical origins. According to legend, five celestial beings, each riding on a flying goat, landed in southeastern China and founded Guangzhou. The legend is fitting. While goats may not be the most glamorous of beasts, they are resilient and independent, much like the city itself. Guangzhou traded steadily with foreign markets since 1685, when the imperial government opened Guangzhou to foreign trade. British East India Company ships came from bases on the Indian coast, and traders established warehouses near the city from which they shipped tea and silk. Though the city declined in commercial importance when China was forced open in the 1840s, it regained its stature as China’s business link to the West after the Communist victory in 1949. And where is it now? The Guangzhou of 2017 was voted by China Forbes as second only to Shanghai as the best city for business. The city experienced a particularly strong year in 2017, with the gross domestic product exceeding 2 trillion yuan, further elevating its position as an international hub of commerce. Guangzhou works at the forefront of reducing
LIGHT SHOW: Canton Tower PHOTO : © ELLEN CLARK
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LODGING
FOUR SEASONS GUANGZHOU While most of the 5-star brands are represented, the Four Seasons stands out. Occupying the top 30 floors of one of the world’s tallest skyscrapers, it offers a 24-hour business center. 5 Zhujiang W. Road, Pearl River New City, Tianhe District $$$$$ VANBURGH HOTEL Located in the heart of Guangzhou’s business district, this 5-star Chinese business hotel provides advanced multimedia meeting amenities and offers bespoke conference planning upon request.
restrictions on access to foreign investment and to creating an increasingly pro-business environment that enables startups and multinational companies to prosper. Total investment in scientific and technological R&D increased more than 20 percent over the course of 2017. And the future? The city anticipates a 7.5 percent increase in economic growth for 2018. As part of its comprehensive 2018 plans, the city committed to taking a lead in further strengthening the reform of China’s business environment. This involves the continued implementation of strategic tax and fee reductions, enhancing the market-oriented legal
126 Huangpu Dadao W., Tianhe District $$$ WHITE SWAN HOTEL The newly renovated White Swan Hotel, located on Shamian Island overlooking the Pearl River, offers more than 26,000 square feet of well-appointed meeting and conference space. 1 Shamian S. St., Liwan District $$$
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ART LESSONS: Chen Clan Academy (top), and artist (bottom) PHOTOS: © ELLEN CLARK
INFO TO GO
Guangzhou Baiyun International Airport is the main airport of Guangzhou, the capital of the province of Guangdong, People’s Republic of China. The airport serves as the main hub of China Southern Airlines and a focus city for Shenzhen Airlines. It lies about 17 miles from downtown Guangzhou and boasts a convenient ground transportation system mainly consisting of Metro Line 3 and shuttle buses, intercity buses and taxis, available within the terminal hall 24 hours a day.
JUST THE FACTS
Time zone: GMT +8 Phone code: Country Code: 86 City Code: 20 Currency: Chinese yuan Key industries: Automotive; electronics; petrochemicals; electrical and thermal energy; electrical appliances and machinery; rail, ship and aviation/aerospace equipment; and pharmaceuticals
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ecosystem for international businesses. You don’t have to be in Guangzhou long to see the air quality is an issue. While the city’s rapid population growth and increase in industry is partly to blame, the increase in the number of cars on the road remains a major factor. With an estimated 1.5 cars per family, air quality takes a big hit. In an effort to improve the situation, the city now limits how many new vehicles can be sold each month. And while there is a waiting list for those buying petrol-fueled cars, those buying electric cars can receive them immediately. Modern-day Guangzhou offers a multitude of business-friendly places to stay. The number of international 5-star hotel chains in the city mushroomed in the last 10 years. As one of the first, the Shangri-La Hotel raised the Guangzhou hotel scene to another level. Now almost all the well-known luxury chains are represented, as well as plenty of Chinese hotels. As for getting around, the Guangzhou Metro not only connects the city center to outer suburbs but also goes to the airport. A bus offers the least expensive way to get around, but few bus drivers speak English, and the bus stop signs are usually in Chinese. Taxis are affordable for short distances, but drivers may not speak English, so it’s a good idea to have a business card or an address of where you want to go written in Chinese.
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CHECKING IN WITH JASMINE MIAO Marketing Specialist, China Southern Airlines, North America Regional Office
What are the most significant changes and improvements China Southern Airlines made in the last three years? WiFi on board, forbidden for years on all Chinese carriers. In 2017 American Airlines bought 2.76 percent of China Southern’s shares through the Hong Kong stock exchange. American and China Southern expect to expand commercial cooperation in sales, airport facilities and codesharing. China Southern and Guangzhou Tourism Office established 20 overseas promotion centers to provide more information and services to tourism guests and transit passengers. Has Guangzhou seen an increase in business travelers over the last few years? Definitely. Thanks to the policies and environment for investment becoming more and more friendly, China Southern’s main hub Guangzhou and the surrounding area attracted
more business travelers. Also, transit from America to Southeast Asia via Guangzhou means fewer stops and less travel time, and its 72-hour visa-free policy helps business travelers transit smoothly. Have you seen changes in your customer base in the last few years? Passengers now know exactly what they want; we clearly see this from the ticketing channel. Passengers’ requirements have become more individual. More competitors joined the market, and we’ve seen an increase in the number of international transit passengers. How does China Southern keep up with the competition? Services are always our roots. We never stop improving our call center, multilanguage service, in-flight dining, entertainment and transit experience. China Southern has a huge cooperation list in China, so passengers can easily find out everything related to a trip from our E-solution app. And in 2017 our North America regional office started cooperating with local tourism offices, shops, hotels and restaurants to provide special discounts and other benefits to our local members and customers in North America. What are the company’s plans for the future? Better service, better connections and better business solutions for medium- and small-business owners will be our long-term goal.
DINING
LE LUTECE In this revolving restaurant on Canton Tower’s 105th floor, Chef Phillippe experiments with local flavors and ingredients to create unique dishes such as snails in soy sauce, along with French standards. Canton Tower, 222 Yuejiang Xi Lu $$$$$ PANXI RESTAURANT Situated by Liwan Lake, the old-fashioned garden-style restaurant serves award-winning, affordable Cantonese cuisine. Weeping willows surround the exterior, while inside diners enjoy rock gardens and water features. 151 Long Jin Xi Lu, Liwan District $$ TAOTAO JU RESTAURANT In business since 1880, the four-story restaurant is one the oldest Chinese restaurants in the city. Best known for its dim sum, it also serves more than 200 dishes of authentic Cantonese fare. 20 Di Shi Fu Lu, ShangXiaJiu, Liwan District $$$ BANKING ON BUSINESS: Jasmine Miao (top), and downtown Guangzhou skyscrapers (bottom) PHOTOS: © JASMINE MIAO, © ELLEN CLARK
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CULTURAL VARIETY: Two masks at the Foshan Opera Museum (left), Redtory (top right), and Guangzhou Lingnan Impression Park (bottom right) PHOTOS: © ELLEN CLARK
DIVERSIONS
While not known for its tourist attractions, Guangzhou does offer those taking a break from business meetings some interesting venues. You can’t miss Guangzhou’s most iconic landmark, the Canton Tower. If the sky is relatively clear, you can’t beat the view from the glass-walled lookout point at a height of almost 1,500 feet. Thrilling, though not advised for the acrophobic, the Bubble Tram circles the top of the tower as a sort of horizontal Ferris wheel. Its 16 sightseeing spherical cabins rotate smoothly along the track at a 15-degree slant to the main structure. Guangdong Museum proves a first-rate provincial museum. Covering an area of 721,182 square feet, it includes five permanent exhibitions and a section dedicated to the history of the city of Guangzhou from prehistoric times to the modern day. For those interested in traditional artwork, Chen Clan
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Ancestral Hall and Guangzhou Folk Art Museum are worth a visit. Particularly outstanding are the detailed and colorful wood carvings perched on the roofs of the halls. Guangzhou Lingnan Impression Park offers a peaceful place to escape the chaos of downtown. It resembles an old town with beautiful traditional buildings, a lake with a shadow puppet pavilion and a main street full of attractions including an openair opera house. Opened in 2009, Redtory, a collection of artists’ studios and small shops, resides in old renovated buildings once part of a canned food factory. There is no admission charge, and a few casual restaurants offer the perfect opportunity to enjoy a quick meal or cup of tea in a peaceful setting. At night, cruise on the Pearl River for a dazzling treat. Once the sun goes down, bridges decorated by colorful neon lights seem like fantastic rainbows spanning the river. On both banks the nightlife of the city awakens, and 7,000 LED light fixtures give the Canton Tower a glow of color that changes from pink to emerald green to royal purple.
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stateside | RALEIGH
Southern Hospitality Raleigh boasts a business-friendly environment and culinary treasures. BY RON BERNTHAL AROUND TOWN: (Left to right) AC Hotel Raleigh North Hills restaurant, The Kitchen; Vidrio restaurant; and North Carolina Museum of Natural Science PHOTOS: © AC HOTEL, © LM RESTAURANTS INV, © VISITRALEIGH
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EARLIER THIS YEAR, WHEN Amazon announced the top 20 finalists of 238 U.S. candidate cities hoping to host the company’s second North American headquarters, Raleigh made the final group. About the same time, Apple announced plans to build another U.S. corporate campus, with Raleigh among several cities under consideration. North Carolina Commerce Secretary Tony Copeland said the area is a “natural fit” for both projects. He pointed to the presence of other tech leaders such as IBM, Cisco, Red Hat and SAS Institute as proof the region is business-friendly and could support such large operations. North Carolina’s hospitable, laid-back capital city quietly emerged as one of the country’s most dynamic business cities. “Last year Forbes named the Raleigh metro region as the nation’s No. 2 Best Place for Business and Careers in 2017,” said Michael Haley, executive director, Wake County Economic Development, which oversees business development in Raleigh and surrounding areas. Known as the City of Oaks, Raleigh’s tree-lined streets and friendly Southern ambience belie its economic diversity, with major employers like WakeMed Health & Hospitals and Duke Energy joining the tech leaders. BB&T Insurance Services, Carquest, First
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Citizens Bank and Golden Corral also maintain headquarters here. The city and its suburban communities are fast-growing leaders in information technology, life sciences, clean tech and advanced manufacturing. In 2017 the city saw major corporate expansions at Credit Suisse, INC Research, Citrix and MetLife and the arrival of innovative tech companies such as Trilliant Networks, which moved its global headquarters from Silicon Valley to the Raleigh suburb of Cary. Infosys, a huge multinational from India, will open its North Carolina Technology and Innovation Hub in Raleigh’s Brier Creek this year. The city is perhaps best known as one of the three anchors of Research Triangle Park, the largest and most prominent research park in the country. Located between Raleigh, Durham and Chapel Hill, RTP covers 7,000 acres, houses more than 200 companies and employs more than 50,000 workers. In addition, Raleigh offers a high quality of life with more than 160 miles of greenways, numerous museums, a brand-new bike share program and 85 music venues — not to mention on-going mixed-use projects creating lovely live-work environments near the center, especially in the revitalized Warehouse District. The Dillon, scheduled for completion this year, is a $150 million, 227,000-square-foot mixed-use project. Its 18-story office tower boasts 40,000 square feet of street-level retail and restaurant space, and two six-story apartment buildings include a parking deck. The landmark project makes up an entire 2.5-acre city block across from the new Union Station, and the office tower occupies the site of the 1912 Dillon Supply Co. warehouse, incorporating one of its old brick walls into the building. The $90 million Union Station, a steel and glass multimodal
in cycles i b e h , of t tation s Half 0 ew 3 am gh’s n progr Ralei e r . a otors ike sh b m c i 0 r 30 lect mall e s e d inclu
SCENIC DRIVES
rail terminal, will open soon, with long-distance Amtrak and regional train service beginning later this year. Replacing a 1950s-era Amtrak terminal, its 43,000 square feet include office, retail and restaurant space. Southern Living called Raleigh a “culinary mecca,” and its reputation as a foodie city grows each year. When noted local caterer and chef Coleen Speaks opened Hummingbird (it’s small, like the bird) in late 2017, with its sea-green tile walls, yellow bar stools, white marble-top bar, New Orleans-style cocktail bar and café atmosphere, it capped a year of excellent restaurant debuts in the city. Hummingbird serves lots of cinnamon-sugared ricotta fritters, seafood po’ boys and tasty hot and cold small plates. Serving three meals daily, it is part of Lynwood Brewing Concern’s trendy but unpretentious dining, retail, gallery and unique business complex located within a former mid-century A&P grocery distribution center and warehouse near Downtown Raleigh. The Downtown Raleigh Alliance reported city food and beverage sales hit $223 million in 2017, beating the 2016 record by $21 million. Other 2017 dining debuts include Vidrio, offering the flavors and soul of a Mediterranean kitchen with a menu infused with imported specialties and local ingredients; and Brewery Bhavana, a family-owned brewery, taproom, dim sum restaurant, library and flower shop all in one, making Bon Appétit’s list of The Hot 10 Best New Restaurants in America. The Morgan Street Food Hall and Market, Down-
town Raleigh’s first food hall, opened this spring in the Warehouse District, a 22,000-square-foot space offering 60-plus culinary shops with chef-driven specialty foods. Vendors range from fully outfitted kitchens providing cooked-to-order meals and snacks to specialized shops selling food and related items. Indoor/outdoor spaces host curated art, music and large-scale special and culinary-themed events. Hotel growth in Raleigh and Wake County surged in recent years, with new properties and major renovations a boom for leisure and business travelers. The 379-room Raleigh Marriott Crabtree Valley, the second-largest fullservice hotel in the city, completed a $37 million renovation and expansion covering all guestrooms, meeting and dining spaces. The 400-room Raleigh Marriott City Center, across the street from the Raleigh Convention Center, is the city’s largest property. Two eclectic hotels opened last year just 10 minutes from the downtown: the 135-room AC Hotel by Marriott North Hills and The StateView, a 156-room Marriott Autograph Collection property on the campus of North Carolina State University. Raleigh-Durham International Airport offers 400 daily flights to more than 50 non-stop destinations, including four international airports: Toronto Pearson, Cancún International, London Heathrow and Paris Charles de Gaulle. Terminal 2 received a design award from the American Institute of Architects and serves more than 11 million passengers a year.
Using highways and local roads, head 48 miles (55 minutes) south to rural North Carolina and visit the Bentonville Battlefield, the site in March 1865 of the last full-scale action of the Civil War in which the Confederate Army mounted a tactical offensive, the largest battle ever fought in North Carolina. The Harper House still stands on the grounds; downstairs rooms replicate a functioning Civil War field hospital, while the upstairs features period furnishings. Nearby Four Oaks, founded in 1885, retains a relaxed atmosphere. Friendly merchants and a historic downtown make this town of 1,800 residents a nice place for tasty eastern North Carolina-style barbecue. Afterward, follow the Blue Gray Scenic Byway, Gen. Sherman’s path as he marched from Bentonville to Goldsboro after the battle. Begin the winding byway at I-95, Exit 90 on US 701 South; turn left on Devils Racetrack Road. The Uwharrie National Forest is a federally designated national forest located 88 miles (1.5 hours) west of Raleigh. The 50,645-acre forest derives its name from the ancient mountains atop which most of the forest sits. The Yadkin River marks the region’s western border, the Great Pee Dee River the northern boundary. Scenic Route 24/27 bisects the forest, going through the tiny town of Troy with its beautiful six-mile hiking trail and historic Main Street marketplace.
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9–5 | JEDDAH
Winds of Change Jeddah thrives as the kingdom pursues an ambitious vision for the future. BY RICHARD NEWTON SEA BREEZE:
Aerial view of Mövenpick Resort Al Nawras PHOTO: © MÖVENPICK HOTELS & RESORTS
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SAUDI ARABIA IS CHANGING, with Jeddah leading the way. The Red Sea port has always been the most liberal city in the kingdom (perhaps surprisingly, because it is also the arrival point for millions of devout pilgrims to nearby Mecca, Islam’s holiest city). Even when the country’s religious police, the Committee for the Promotion of Virtue and the Prevention of Vice, were at their most draconian, Jeddah provided a degree of leeway. Now, as then, my preferred place to wake up (to an inevitably sweltering Jeddah day) is in one of the 91 private villas of the Mövenpick Resort Al Nawras, on a private island just off the city’s waterfront North Corniche. Draw back the drapes and look out on your own glass-walled garden, your swimming pool
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and the crinkled ultramarine expanse of the Red Sea beyond. The hotel’s Al Wadaa Restaurant is ideal for a power breakfast. Select a table with a sea view, then dig in to the lavish buffet. The relaxed setting is conducive to conversation. Gazing out to the horizon, you’ll find it hard to believe you are within a city of 4 million people. You’ll be reminded of that the moment you leave the resort. Out the gates, across the short bridge to the mainland, you’re immediately into hectic traffic. Driving in Saudi Arabia is not for the faint-hearted. It’s probably best to rely on taxis, at least until you get a feel for the rules of the road. One of the most significant recent changes in the kingdom is the lifting of the ban on women drivers (Saudi Arabia was the last country in the world with such a prohibition). The daytime heat is ferocious; in the hottest months the mercury often tops 100 degrees Fahrenheit, with 100 percent humidity. Business dress for men is formal, so take a lightweight suit. In some circumstances (for instance, visiting a construction site) it is permissible to wear a short-sleeved shirt with a tie. The situation for women is much stricter, though even that is beginning to change. Women are expected to wear an abaya (a shape-
less head-to-toe dress) in public and to keep their head covered. Usual international business dress is acceptable in meetings. As Saudi Arabia cautiously liberalizes, these restrictions may soon relax. As you’d expect of a major city, Jeddah has no shortage of excellent restaurants, representing the full cross section of global cuisine. For a prestige lunch venue, try the Mataam al Sharq at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel. As well as the opulent main dining room, the restaurant offers private facilities for groups of 10–40. The food is Middle Eastern, prepared by a Lebanese chef. In the northern part of Jeddah you may catch glimpses of a silhouette rising from the city’s desert fringe. That’s the $1.2 billion Jeddah Tower (formerly known as the Kingdom Tower), the tallest building in the world when it tops out in 2020. As the world’s first kilometer-high skyscraper, it will be the centerpiece of a major new development, the Jeddah Economic City. Simultaneously, the nearby King Abdulaziz International Airport nears the end of a $7.2 billion expansion that will transform it into one of the world’s premier hubs, ultimately giving it a capacity of 100 million passengers per year. There’s a dedicated Hajj terminal to receive more than 10 million annual pilgrims, who will soon be able to continue to Mecca by a new high-speed rail link. Toward the end of the day, many locals gravitate to the Corniche to stroll along the waterside as the sun sets. I like to start at the Sculpture Museum, an outdoor park containing work by Henry Moore, Alexander Calder, Joan Miró and others. From there I head south, taking my time because even with a sea breeze the heat is stifling. Head for the Culture Café and Lounge, serving Arabic coffee, milkshakes and mouthwatering cake. From air-conditioned comfort you can look out across the bay to King Fahd’s Fountain, jetting a column of saltwater nearly a thousand feet into the air (the tallest
FEAST FOR THE SENSES:
Al Wadaa Restaurant buffet at Mövenpick Resort Al Nawras (above), and the Mameluke Mosque Lanterns in the Corniche area (left)
PHOTOS: © MÖVENPICK HOTELS & RESORTS, © GIUSEPPEMASCI | DREAMSTIME.COM
The holy city of Mecca
lies 50 miles inland from
Jeddah. s Non-Muslim are required to divert
fountain in the world). After sunset, 500 spotlights illuminate it. Saudi Arabia is not an easy country for Westerners. Despite the reforms, all religions other than Islam are banned, atheists are classified as terrorists, and homosexuality carries the death penalty. Yet the winds of change are beginning to stir, and Jeddah will feel them first. MAY 2018
around e Mecca on th ‘Christian bypass.’
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after 5 | WASHINGTON, D.C.
Down at The Wharf Redevelopment adds a new nightlife district to Southwest D.C. BY KATHERINE RODEGHIER “I WAS BLOWN AWAY,” said Sunny Seng as he used tweezers to garnish one of his Prohibition-style cocktails. Home for a visit from his job in New York City, he found Washington, D.C.’s food and beverage scene booming and moved back to join it. As head bartender at upscale Requin, one of 20 new restaurants and bars in District Wharf, Seng operates at the center of the single-largest development in the history of the capital. Stretching for a mile along the waterfront in once-downtrodden Southwest D.C., the $2.5 billion mixed-use project officially opened last October. Live music makes The Wharf an important nightlife district, with three new stages. The Foo Fighters launched The Anthem, a 6,000-capacity concert hall. Pearl Street Warehouse patrons are never more than 25 feet from the stage where rock, country, folk, soul and blues acts perform. Union Stage came along at the end of December with a 450-capacity music venue. Adding to the entertainment mix is the nearby Mead Center, the second-largest performing arts space after the Kennedy Center. Its Arena Stage specializes in American theater. A lively bar scene adds to the energy level in The Wharf ’s restaurants and hotels. Requin is known for its modern take on classic French cuisine as well as Seng’s cocktail wizardry. Fire pits draw patrons to the patio on chilly nights. The Spanish seafood restaurant Del Mar features a classic cocktail program with Spanish influences and opens three outdoor seating spaces this spring. Garage-style doors raise onto the waterfront promenade at The Brighton, an Englishstyle gastropub. Kith/Kin's 27-year-old chef brings Afro-Caribbean fare to the InterContinental Washington D.C. – The Wharf, one of three new hotels in the development. They join the Mandarin Oriental, Washington D.C., which helped kick-start the redevelopment of Southwest D.C. when it opened in 2004. Its Empress Lounge remains a gathering place for Washington power brokers. While The Wharf welcomes the LGBTQ community, it’s too soon to tell whether it will match the popularity of the capital’s other gay-friendly districts such as Adams Morgan, home of the Duplex Diner and Songbyrd Record Café and Music House; Dupont Circle, where Cobalt and JR.’s do business; and the U Street Corridor, with the Town Danceboutique nightclub and Nellie’s Sports Bar.
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rose and P s c i t i e Pol okstor o b . t r D.C rf tha a a l h u p W o . The p enings on The v t e e l e t h u o in t has an events r o h t au hosts
NIGHT SCENE:
The Empress Lounge and Terrace at the Mandarin Oriental, Washington D.C. (top), Pearl Street Warehouse (bottom left), and bartender Dimitre Darroca at Kith/ Kin restaurant in the new InterContinental Washington D.C. (bottom right) PHOTOS: © KATHERINE RODEGHIER
neighborhoods | BEIRUT
Step Lively Through ups and downs, Beirut retains its vibrancy.
BY SHARON KING HOGE
ON THE LONGEST STAIRWAY in the Middle East, 129 steps and 18 landings separate two of the most colorful neighborhoods in Lebanon’s cosmopolitan capital city. The historic St. Nicholas staircase links Beirut’s trendy Gemmayze district upward to Sursock, the fancy avenue lined with grand mansions and elegant high rises of the past and present gentry. Both areas still show signs of the devastating effects of the civil war that raged 1975–1990, but structures decorated with arched windows, ornamental ironwork and ornate cornices witness a lively lifestyle dating from the era when this city was called the Paris of the Middle East. The stairway landing is tucked off Gourand Road, one of the city’s liveliest streets (locals just call it Main Street), lined with boutiques, cafés and clubs. Storefront restaurants offer fresh croissants, sushi, pasta, sandwiches, pizza slices and hamburgers. A few doorways to the west of the steps, the longtime local favorite café, Le Chef, offers daily fresh specials of homemade food “like my grandmother’s kitchen.” After dark, clients comfortably sipping cocktails and local Beirut beer while engrossed in their laptops populate the street’s cozy clubs and dimly lit pubs. Halfway up the steps, the Grand Meshmosh café provides a hangout for visitors sampling turnip and fennel soup, eggplant moussaka and slices of dense carrot cake. Farther along, My Luxury Outlet sells elegant shoes, bags, luggage and other leather goods by Longchamp, Lancel and Fratelli Rossetti at steeply discounted prices. Signs at the top of the steps designate the district “Caractere Traditionnel,” and directly across the street is the former Maison Tarazi, dating from 1908. It sits a few doors down from the three-story 1912 villa of aristocratic art collector Nicholas Sursock, converted to a notable museum highlighting regional and contemporary art. Lights blaze from its stained glass windows at night, and Sursock’s book- and memento-lined study and ornate Oriental Arab Room ringed with divans convey a sense of the grand lifestyle that once prevailed here. Storefront shops sell high-end art and antiques and the exquisite mini-mosaic rings and brooches of jeweler Nada Le Cavalier. Around the corner at the far end of the street, the grand old theater of the Metropolis Cinema screens first-run American and international films.
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HISTORIC CITY: Downtown Beirut (above), and Port of Beirut (left) PHOTOS © DIEGOFIORE | DREAMSTIME.COM, © THINK DESIGN MANAGE | DREAMSTIME.COM
LEBANON Beirut
SYRIA
ISRAEL
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THE UNIQUE INDOOR/OUTDOOR flow created by this urban oasis offers multiple magical atmospheres. The dining room welcomes guests in a warm and cozy ambiance revealing the traditional colors of Provence, and opens on to the main patio, which features a cocktail bar and an array of seating options. The Aviary (east patio) provides an intimate atmosphere for exclusive cocktail parties and dining experiences.
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friends & family | GREENLAND
Land of Ice and Snow Explore Greenland’s frozen expanse on an Arctic expedition. BY KARIN LEPERI
GREENLAND TRADITIONS:
(Left to right) Itilleq, locals in native dress, colorful buildings, drumming in Kangamiut, ice arch in Disko Bay, and fresh cod for dinner PHOTOS: © KARIN LEPERI
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GREENLAND IS MASSIVE. Even when looking at the world map, you can’t help but notice how big it is. So it’s hard to believe that, despite the land mass size, it is not a continent but rather an island — an island with the only permanent ice sheet outside of Antarctica covering most of its interior. Life tends to cling to the habitable coastlines, where the mountains reign as well. Whether you use a distorted Mercator Projection or the more recent GallPeters Projection which removes the northern bias, the land size still appears massive, with more than 836,330 square miles, about 10 times the size of Minnesota. Nevertheless, the island has no roads between towns, few cars and no railway system. Travel within Greenland is by plane, boat, helicopter, snowmobile or dogsled, with most residents owning a boat. Most visitors arrive at the international commercial airport in Kangerlussuaq,
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a settlement in western Greenland located at the head of the Kangerlussuaq fjord. It’s just a couple of minutes from the ice cap, a prime feature for travelers to see. The area boasts diverse terrestrial fauna and is known for muskox, caribou and gyrfalcons. The largest town in South Greenland is Qaqortoq, in an area inhabited for about 4,300 years. Called home by the pre-historic Saqqaq people, it served as a home base for the Norse during the 10th century, the Thule in the 12th century and the Danish in the 18th century. Qaqortoq lies close to one of the best-preserved Norse ruins. Hvalsey Church was built in the 14th century, the first Christian church on the island. The last written record of Greenland’s Norse culture was a church wedding in 1408. No other written traces exist. The easiest way to see coastal Greenland —
where most people live — is by boat. The most luxurious way to do so is by cruise ship, and the most adventurous way is by expeditionary cruise. Because of the preponderance of winter sea ice along the coasts, most cruises to Greenland occur from early summer to early fall. Cruise lines either touring or making stops in Greenland include Arctic Umiaq Line, Costa Cruises, Fred. Olsen Cruise Lines, Holland America Line, Hurtigruten, Poseidon Expeditionary Cruises, Silversea Cruises and Windstar Cruises. Many cruises begin on the west coast near Kangerlussuaq Airport. Larger ships on trans-Atlantic crossings frequent Nanortalik and Qaqortoq in South Greenland and, at times, Nuuk, the capital of Greenland. Disko Bay in West Greenland attracts the largest number of tourists. The bay, actually a wide southeastern inlet of Baffin Bay, is home to Ilulissat (“iceberg”), the principal town and most visited community. People come here to see the Ilulissat Icefjord, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Along with the massive icebergs, the bay harbors a large number of whales of many species. It also boasts the northernmost 4-star hotel in the world: Hotel Arctic. Be aware most Greenland towns and settlements have few hotels to choose from. Expect to pay more than you are used to, even for basic rooms. Many may require sharing a bath with another room. Expect to pay extra for WiFi at most hotels; the con-
LODGING
HANS EGEDE HOTEL The largest hotel in Nuuk, capital of Greenland, this 4-star property is geared toward the business traveler; accommodations include a breakfast buffet. Aqqusinersuaq 1-5, 3900 Nuuk $$$ HOTEL ARCTIC The northernmost 4-star hotel on the planet sits less than two and a half miles from Ilulissat Icefjord, and many rooms offer a view of the ice. The hotel features modern
Scandinavian décor and a wellequipped conference center. Mittarfimmut Aqq. B1128, 3952 Ilulissat $$$$ HOTEL KANGERLUSSUAQ Conveniently located at the airport, the comfortable hotel is easily accessed from the terminal building. Business travelers appreciate the conference areas and a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. P.O. Box 1006, 3910 Kangerlussuaq $$$
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With a of only
HISTORY AND HERITAGE:
Three generations of Greenlanders (left), Zodiac excursion (top right), and display at the Nuuk Museum (bottom right)
ion populat 6,000 about 5 ants, inhabit nd is Greenla t dense the leas in the country world.
PHOTOS: © KARIN LEPERI
DINING
CHAROEN PORN The vegetarian-friendly restaurant serves Thai food incorporating Greenlandic ingredients, including fresh fish.
INFO TO GO
Aqqusinersuaq 5, 3900 Nuuk $$–$$$ RESTAURANT ICEFIORD Satisfying portions of Scandinavian and occasional Thai food place an emphasis on fresh fish and Greenlandic specialties. The menu includes a special children’s selection. Hotel Icefiord, Jørgen Sverdrupip Aqq. 10, 3952 Ilulissat $$–$$$ RESTAURANT ROKLUBBEN Rated No. 1 in Kangerlussuaq by TripAdvisor, the buffet offers Scandinavian seafood and local dishes including smoked musk ox, mattak (made from the blubber of narwhals and beluga whales), reindeer sausage, shrimp, fish and seasonal vegetables. Lake Ferguson Shore, 3910 Kangerlussuaq $$–$$$
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nections can be spotty. Though there are no 5-star hotels in Greenland, several 4-star properties cater to the business class. And be sure to explore Visit Greenland’s site for a wealth of information regarding weather, activities, culture, hotels and food. I was an expeditionary explorer on Poseidon’s West Greenland and Disko Bay voyage. The area of exploration encompassed a wealth of natural wonders such as breathtaking fjords, calving glaciers and majestic coastal mountains cloaked in white. Experienced polar guides and educators directed activities such as Zodiac excursions, hiking and optional kayaking. The ship’s expedition staff-to-passenger ratio of 1:9 is one of the best in the business. Besides the ice cap, glaciers, icebergs, polar seas and frozen tundra of land that once geographically belonged to North America, Greenland offers the midnight sun north of the Arctic Circle, Inuit villages and culture, whales and fluking whale tails, as well as eerie ghost towns harking to an abandoned past life. One of my favorite excursions was to the little settlement of Itilleq on a small island located on the west coast of Greenland. About 125 people live here, surviving primarily on hunting and fishing. My small group consisted of passengers from Taiwan, Germany and the United States. Together we were hosted at the modest home of Pauline Dahl with traditional kaffemik and pastry. Though she spoke little English and our group spoke no Greenlandic, we seemed to relate through a round of smiles. At one point, Pauline proudly displayed a photo of her daughter, son-in-law and granddaughter. I then asked her to hold the photo so I could capture three generations of Greenlanders in one photo.
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Travel between settlements in Greenland is generally by boat or air, as there are few connecting roads. The first airports in Greenland were built for U.S. defense purposes and include Kangerlussuaq Airport (1941), followed by Narsarsuaq Airport (1942) and Kulusuk Airport (1956). Though these airports were initially for military use only, the early 1960s changed travel for civilians when Greenlandair was founded. By 2000 Greenlandair also took over the SAS-operated connection from Copenhagen to Kangerlussuaq. Today Greenlandair is known as Air Greenland, and Kangerlussuaq (SFJ) is the primary and largest commercial airport for international travelers to Greenland, servicing about 250,000 passengers a year.
Where you belong in Boston.
HOTEL
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61 EXETER STREET AT BOYLSTON
bucket list | CROAGH PATRICK
The Holy Hill Climb in the footsteps of St. Patrick on Ireland’s northwest coast.
I HAVE TO CONFESS, CROAGH PATRICK is still on my bucket list. Rising on Ireland’s northwest coast right beside the sea in County Mayo, the stately mountain — actually a high hill — is one of the island’s sacred spots. Back in the year 441, St. Patrick is said to have fasted there 40 days and 40 nights, interrupting his vigil to drive all the snakes into the sea. The ascent has become a pilgrimage site for devoted Catholics, some said to make the ascent barefoot or on their knees. It’s also a popular destination for hikers and for hardy locals who jaunt up once or twice a week just for exercise. In pilgrimage season, April through October, the mountain can be mobbed with a few hundred people a day sauntering up and back, children holding their parents’ hands, joggers skipping
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BY SHARON KING HOGE
from rock to rock. I’ve summited Kilimanjaro and trekked up to Everest Base Camp, so I figured this glorified hill would be a bit of a jaunt. A tendon in my heel was still sore after a recent curb misstep, but I expected a mere bit of discomfort as I strolled up what I assumed would be a gentle path. Not exactly. Once I passed the Visitor Centre and statue of St. Patrick and climbed a short flight of stairs, reality set in. Hundreds of pilgrims and hikers eroded the path into a rough surface of loose stones scattered around protruding rocks. There was no clear footing, especially since I was favoring my tender ankle. For a few euros, climbers can buy or rent a recommended hiking stick at the bottom, but I had brought along the cane I’d been using to help my ankle injury. Even with that extra support, it was slow going.
PILGRIMAGE: Statue at the start of the pathway to Croagh Patrick PHOTO: © FRANK BACH | DREAMSTIME.COM
It might have helped if I could see where I was headed. The path veers east off to the left before turning west up to the peak. But the customary mist had settled in, and clouds secluded Croagh Patrick’s upper reaches. Nor was there any sight of the intermediate destinations along the way. Climbers first reach a rest stop, described matter-of-factly as “the toilets.” Farther along at the first station, a pile of stones, the prescribed ritual is to walk seven times around the cairn which commemorates the bones of St. Patrick’s follower Benain, attacked by blackbirds on the spot. The second station is the actual hilltop, with a small chapel which seats a few dozen worshipers and offers views of the meadows and stone fences to the east and the 300 Aran islands dotting the shore below. The truly committed descend 500 feet down the west slope to a third station, cairn Reilig Mhuire, which calls for its own recitations of homilies and prayers before a climb back up to the summit to turn around and return the way you came. I have yet to pay my devotions at any of those spots. After hobbling along for more than an hour, I encountered fellow climbers who turned back since “the weather was worsening and the last part of the climb, to the cone, is the hardest.” I hate to be a quitter, and I hadn’t even reached “the toilets.” But I was worried about slipping down the loose gravel, and, sure enough, once I turned back, the downhill slide was harrowing.
Seeing my dilemma, a kindly little girl on the trail donated her stick to help me balance. Without that gift I might have had to call a rescue squad. As it was, with the cane and stick propping me up, balanced between them, I took two hours to inch back down. I’ve vowed to return. Not only do I have to fulfill my “bucket list” assignment, but the region is rich in tourist activities. At the foot of the mountain, a ghostly Famine Monument portrays the coffin ships that brought immigrants to America. The stone ruins of Murrisk Abbey on the site of St. Patrick’s church retain the frame of a oncegrand window. For hikers and cyclists, the Great Western Greenway, a converted rail trail, winds 26 miles from Achill Island to the charming riverside town of Westport, where visitors can shop for hand-knit sweaters and shamrock key chains in stores retaining their vintage façades. A guided visit through the 30 period rooms of stately Westport House illustrates the lifestyle of bygone gentry. Westport Harbour hotels offer spa treatments, dining and dozens of atmospheric pubs. Travelers can book tours with local outfits to nearby Clare Island to see the castle of 16th-century pirate queen Grace O’Malley or arrange trips for fishing, cycling, kayaking and heritage walks. I’m looking forward to trying out some of the options when I return next spring to conquer Croagh Patrick, once and for all.
MAY 2018
MEMORIALS: Rock cairn on Croagh Patrick, ruins of Murrisk Abbey, and Famine Monument sculpture PHOTOS: © SKYE MCCARTHY | DREAMSTIME .COM, © TIMOTHY KIRK | DREAMSTIME.COM, © VINCENT MACNAMARA | DREAMSTIME.COM
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kicking back | FIJI
Sweet Dreams Escape to a fantasy paradise in friendly Fiji. BY GREGORY D. MCCLUNEY
ON FINAL APPROACH to Fiji’s Nadi International Airport, the gin-clear blue/green waters, green hills and white sands resemble the next location for the new release of Blue Lagoon or Castaway, both filmed here. It’s the perfect image of the South Pacific we all fantasize about, unfolding right below your wingtip. Bula (welcome)! Mute your electronics for the length of your visit and you can live a Hollywood-style tropical dream, but you will have to choose among Fiji’s 333 islands, of which only around 100 are inhabited. U.S. visitors leave California on Fiji Airways, the only direct service to this paradise from the mainland and Honolulu. Direct service is also available from Korea, Australia and New Zealand.
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Cruise ships visit, but the schedules and total time involved make it impractical to cruise and disembark in Nadi. Considering the many things to see and do on the island, you won’t want to spend your South Pacific escape sitting on a cruise ship. Upon clearing customs and immigration (in the airport’s comfortable, air-conditioned building), visitors have a variety of ground transportation options. Rental cars are plentiful and reasonably priced. Choose from private cars and cabs, drivers who offer guide services for the day, and local walking guides. Many visitors book daytrips and excursions before leaving home so they won’t miss swimming in the real Blue Lagoon or a hike to see the stunning Kadavu waterfall. Rosie’s Holidays is one of the most popular tour operators. Many resorts and hotels have their own private islands for an exclusive day in tropical nirvana and an active booking desk for tours. Historically, Fiji didn’t have an easy birth. It was settled around 1500 B.C. by the Lapita tribe. Members of the neighboring Tongan tribe attacked the Lapitas for more than 500 years. In 1774 Capt. James Cook sailed through the region and branded them Fijians. Around 1830 Christian missionaries from England began arriving to convert the natives, quite successfully, to Christianity, although the local warlords maintained control. In 1875 a measles epidemic killed a third
PICTURE PERFECT:
(Left to right) Beach with palm trees over the lagoon, view of the Sigatoka River from Tavuni Hill Fort, and Suva PHOTOS: © MARTIN VALIGURSKY | DREAMSTIME.COM, © FILEDIMAGE | DREAMSTIME.COM, © RAMORAN | DREAMSTIME.COM
LODGING
FIJI MARRIOTT RESORT MOMI BAY Bungalows built over the peaceful bay set the tone for the ultimate tropical experience on the main island. Convenient for day-tripping to other sites. Even the kids will like the food here. Savusavu Road, Momi Bay, Nadi, Viti Levu $$$$
of the population, and Fiji soon became part of the British Empire. Indentured labor arrived in the form of more than 60,000 workers from India to work the cane plantations. In 1987 Fiji declared itself independent and installed a prime minister of Indian descent. From 2000 to the present three coups took place, ending in a supervised democratic election. The population has now grown to more than 900,000. Many activities, sightseeing tours and rentals leave from Denarau Harbor on Viti Levu island near the airport and also from its capital, Suva, 100 miles away on the other side of the island. Suva is considered the main commercial city where most of the island’s business is conducted, and it offers the largest collection of live music, bars and nightlife. For visitors who prefer to travel independently, islandhopping is much easier than in many other South Pacific destinations. Options include rental cars, cabs, watercraft of all sizes and even a train ride on the Coral Coast Railroad. You can ride the train, originally installed to haul sugar cane, from Nadi to Sigatoka to see one of the grandest beaches on Vita Levu, Natadola Beach. Once there, don’t miss the spectacular sand dunes and the Tavuni Hill Fort,
dating back to the 18th century. Heading south about 20 miles by car from Nadi, you’ll arrive in Lautoka and the Garden of the Sleeping Giant, a destination worthy of a visit whether you are into horticulture and gardens or not. You’ll see more than 150,000 Asian orchids — 2,000 species — in more than 50 acres at the base of the Sabeto Mountains. The Sleeping Giant received its name from the silhouette of a sleeping giant that appears at the top of the range. Enjoy a drink in the reception area where the views are the best. Just a few miles from Suva lies the Navua River, perfect for a float that can last a full day, with lunch. This freeform, lazy, freshwater river makes for a cooling day for visitors of any age. Nightlife in Suva is as relaxed as it gets — all on island time. The party often begins after a rugby match, the national sport. Then choose among the bars and dance clubs for every taste. Locals welcome all visitors, including the LGBTQ community, though there are no specific dedicated gay-friendly clubs. You can shop for souvenirs from Fiji at small stands scattered throughout the major tourist islands and always
INTERCONTINENTAL FIJI GOLF RESORT & SPA The full-service luxury property features 18 holes of golf, a spa and 35 acres of gardens and pools, plus a wedding pavilion. If you must have a meeting in Fiji, the hotel offers complete business facilities. Maro Road, Natadola Bay, Viti Levu $$$$ KOKOMO PRIVATE ISLAND FIJI A true private island retreat with its reef just off the beach, this hotel has only 21 guestrooms, each with a private pool. You’ll arrive on a private seaplane. Yakuve Island $$$
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g s a bi Fiji i ory territ o red t compa island other ’s ns. It natio ze the si t u o b a gton ashin W f o and state 3 es 33 includ s. island
DINING
DAIKOKU Serving authentic upscale Japanese cuisine, much more than sushi, this friendly and casual eatery welcomes kids. Two locations on Viti Levu. Northern Press and Queens roads, Martintar, Nadi FNPF Place Dolphins Foodcourt, Victoria Parade, Suva $$$ NAVO Enjoy fine dining overlooking the lagoon at Navo, specializing in local seafood and boasting an extensive wine list. Ask about a private cabana. InterContinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa, Maro Road, Natadola Bay, Viti Levu $$$$ PORTS O’CALL With elegant décor from a classic ocean liner, POC will impress with its tableside service and FrenchEuropean menu. Sheraton Fiji Resort, Denarau Island South $$$$$
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surrounding major attractions. But if you’re a serious shopper, head to the municipal market in Suva, which covers an entire city block. Beware of hiring “guides” who claim they will take you to the best deals. Dive the famous Blue Lagoon, one of the top scuba/snorkel spots in Fiji, complete with its own resort. It’s unbelievably clear and pristine; if you enjoyed the 1970s movie, you’ll love the real thing. Allow at least a half day here. If you have an open night, Fijians are famous for a traditional gathering and feast called a lovo. The menu is endless, with meats marinated in coconut cream and spices and then buried in an underground oven for hours. The lovo defines the concept of a South Pacific outdoor buffet and picnic. Live entertainment is often a bonus. After your lovo, you might have the opportunity to sit down with the locals and enjoy another tradition, a kava-drinking session. Kava is made from a native root that is mildly narcotic and passed around in a yaqona bowl. It’s most popular in the Yasawa Islands. Remember to use a little Fijian bula along with a big smile when on the island. This is a welcoming culture. And when you depart, leave one more smile and wave with a big “Vinaka!” — “Thank you!”
MAY 2018
FIJIAN FEAST:
Fijian cooking food underground at a lovo (above), and preparing the kava (left) PHOTOS: © RAFAEL BEN ARI | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MAURIE HILL | DREAMSTIME.COM
INFO TO GO
Travel to Fiji is almost exclusively by air for U.S. mainland visitors via Los Angeles (LAX) or San Francisco (SFO), and from Honolulu (HNL) on Fiji Airways. Flying time takes about 10 hours from California. Direct service is also available from New Zealand, Australia and Korea. All flights arrive at Nadi International Airport on the island of Viti Levu, a transportation center for travel to most of the other islands. Once on the ground, several cruise lines and ferries operate throughout the islands, as well as light aircraft and seaplane service to many islands. Private charter service on fixed-wing or helicopter is also available.
STAND UP FOR US ALL
Clinical trials bring us closer to the day when all cancer patients can become survivors. Clinical trials are an essential path to progress and the brightest torch researchers have to light their way to better treatments. That’s because clinical trials allow researchers to test cutting-edge and potentially life-saving treatments while giving participants access to the best options available. If you’re interested in exploring new treatment options that may also light the path to better treatments for other patients, a clinical trial may be the right option for you. Speak with your doctor and visit StandUpToCancer.org/ClinicalTrials to learn more.
Sonequa Martin-Green, SU2C Ambassador Photo Credit: Matt Sayles Stand Up To Cancer is a division of the Entertainment Industry Foundation, a 501(c)(3) charitable organization.
lgbtq
South American Hot Spot Uruguay lures LGBTQ travelers from around the globe. BY MARK CHESNUT
AS ONE OF THE MOST SOCIALLY liberal nations in the Western National Auditorium, as well as La Rambla, a verdant avenue that runs between the city and the sea. Hemisphere, Uruguay is a natural choice for LGBTQ globetrotters For after-dark fun, top choices include Cain Club, a disco looking for a welcoming experience. The government decriminalized that stages a different show every night; Il Tempo, a dance club homosexuality way back in 1934 and made even more progress in the that attracts a variety of LGBTQ and straight night owls; and 21st century, with laws prohibiting discrimination in effect since 2003 Chains, which targets an over-30 gay male clientele. and allowing same-sex marriage since 2013. Gay-friendly accom“Uruguay is historically a modations in Montevideo vanguard nation in terms of ‘Uruguay is historically a vanguard nation in include Casa Roberto legislation and social rights,” and Casa Sarandi, both said Adrián Russo, president, terms of legislation and social rights.’ bed-and-breakfasts set in the Cámara de Comercio y historic homes. Among the Negocios LGBT Uruguay — ADRIÁN RUSSO, PRESIDENT, THE CÁMARA top internationally branded (Uruguay LGBT Chamber of DE COMERCIO Y NEGOCIOS LGBT URUGUAY hotels in Montevideo are Commerce and Business). In the Sheraton Montevideo, terms of visiting, “The peak Sofitel Montevideo Casino Carrasco and Spa and Hyatt Centric season is summer, thanks to the sun and sand, water sports and Montevideo. other entertainment that’s available,” Russo said. “But Uruguay Another must-see destination — especially in the warmer has something to offer for every season. Wine tourism, design, months — is Punta del Este, an international hot spot for sun shopping, adventure, wellness and culture are some of the worshipers. Playa Chihuahua, a nudist beach, is among the reasons why LGBTQ travelers visit our country.” popular gathering places for LGBTQ travelers. Find gay-specific The point of entry for most visitors is the capital city, Monaccommodations at Undarius, a men-only hotel, while maintevideo. There, Russo recommends the culinary offerings in gaystream luxury hotels include the chic Hotel Fasano Punta del popular restaurants like Francis, La Cocina de Pedro and 1700. Top sightseeing attractions include the historic Solis Theater and Este and spacious Conrad Punta del Este Resort & Casino.
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THE BEACH AND BEYOND:
Aerial view of Montevideo Beach, (left), and the famous colonnade of the Solis Theater (right) PHOTOS: © DANFLCREATIVO | DREAMSTIME.COM, © KSENIYA RAGOZINA | DREAMSTIME.COM
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airport update
Setting Records Orlando International Airport continues to reach new highs. BY ALLIE MENZIONE ORLANDO, LOCATED IN CENTRAL Florida, is the 24th-largest metropolitan area in the United States and the third-largest metropolitan area in Florida. As one of the world’s most visited tourist destinations — thanks to attractions like Walt Disney World and Universal Studios — it is also home to Florida’s busiest airport. Orlando International Airport ranks as the 13th-largest airport in the United States, with 44.6 million passengers a year. Many travelers fly in to visit the “Theme Park Capital of the World,” its tourist attractions drawing around 68 million visitors in 2016 alone. The airport’s central location, within a two-hour drive of more than 60 percent of Florida’s population, makes it well-positioned to support the region. It currently generates more than $31 billion in revenue for the regional economy. Orlando’s airport, also known as McCoy Air Force Base, hit record traffic numbers in 2017 and continues to grow. In January 2018 MCO served more than 3.9 million travelers, an 8 percent increase from the same time last year, and is projected to break 45 million annual passengers in the coming year. The airport currently sees 123,796 passengers a day on more than 40 airlines flying to 84 domestic and 53 international destinations. In response to an increase in passenger numbers, MCO enjoyed an increase in the number of available airline seats. Frontier, Spirit, Southwest, JetBlue and Azul airlines made an additional 250,000 seats available as of November. In March several airlines added or increased flights to multiple domestic and global destinations, including Virgin Atlantic’s route to Belfast (BFS), Delta Air Lines' route to Amsterdam (AMS) and Southwest Airlines’ service to Oakland, Calif. (OAK). Aside from being the most frequented airport in the state, Orlando strives to value and delight its customers through an airportwide design concept known as The Orlando Experience. Exciting features of the experience include a 1,560-foot video wall running behind check-in and more video walls throughout the terminals that create a unique, immersive and sensory experience for passengers. In December MCO unveiled a series of vibrant “welcome mats,” creating a colorful, floor-to-ceiling design that immerses visitors in the Central Florida theme.
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Orlando International Airport was ranked No. 1 for overall customer satisfaction in the 2017 J.D. Power North American Airport Satisfaction Study released in September. The study was based on performance in six areas including terminal facilities, airport accessibility, security check, baggage claim, check-in/baggage check, food, beverage and retail. MCO had the widest margin over second place in any of the three size classifications. Also new to Orlando is the construction of the South Terminal Complex. The $2.1 billion project began in 2017 and will rank as one of the most costly public works projects ever in Central Florida over its three years to completion. Phase one of the STC includes a 2.7-million-square-foot, world-class domestic and international terminal building, including 16 new airline gates and a landside terminal. In January a new “C” garage and Automated People Mover Complex opened to accommodate the new record-breaking number of travelers. The structures were built to relieve some of the parking and roadway congestion in the north. The future looks bright for MCO as it continues to expand, break records and satisfy passengers across the board.
ORLANDO OASIS:
Orlando International Airport atrium PHOTO: © ADAMSTOCKER | DREAMSTIME.COM
ORLANDO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
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THE SOURCE FOR LUxURY BUSINESS TRAVELERS
ABU DHABI
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IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE
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FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY
9–5 | CAPE TOWN
GT Members Section passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet. Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle. Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25). The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million. Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center. Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background. Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300. While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques
e new GT app is This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE
JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world. You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers
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health
Take Your Medicine Know the TSA rules for packing medications and medical implants or equipment. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN
MEDICATIONS IN PILL or other solid form must undergo security screening at U.S. airports. The Transportation Security Administration recommends medication be clearly labeled to speed up the screening process. Check with state laws regarding prescription medication labels. It is best to keep your medications in their own individual prescription bottles from the pharmacy. You are responsible for displaying, handling and repacking the medication when screening is required. Medication can undergo a visual or X-ray screening and may be tested for traces of explosives. Inform the TSA officer you have medically necessary liquids or other medications and separate them from other belongings before screening begins. Also declare accessories connected with the liquid medication, such as freezer bags, IV bags, pumps, syringes and needles. Labeling these items can speed the screening process. Also carry printed prescriptions from your doctor for these supplies. You may bring medically necessary liquids, medications and creams in excess of 3.4 ounces or 100 milliliters in your carryon bag. Remove them from your bag and have them screened separately from the rest of your belongings. You are not required to place the liquid medication in a plastic zip-top bag. If a liquid, gel or aerosol that
has been declared medically necessary sets off alarms, it may require additional screening and may not be allowed on the plane. Ice packs, freezer packs, gel packs and other accessories may be shown at the screening checkpoint in a frozen or semifrozen state to keep medically necessary items cool. All items, including supplies associated with medically necessary liquids, such as bags, pumps and syringes, must be screened before they will be permitted into the secure point of the airport. TSA officers may test the liquids, gels or aerosols for explosives or concealed prohibited items. If officers are unable to use X-ray to clear those items, they may ask to open the container and transfer the contents to a separate empty container or dispose of a small quantity of the contents if possible. If you have recently undergone a medical procedure involving radioactive materials or have a radioactive implant, inform the TSA officer before the screening process. You can provide the officer with a TSA notification card or other medical documentation from your physician regarding your condition. You may be screened by advanced imaging technology, a walk-through medical detector or a pat-down if you have recently undergone a medical procedure involving radioactive materials or have a radioactive
implant. Consult with your doctor before flying. Consider applying for TSA PreCheck to speed your security screening process without needing to remove shoes, laptops, liquids, belts and light jackets. You can apply online and then schedule an appointment at any of 380-plus enrollment centers for a 10-minute, in-person background check. If you are approved for TSA PreCheck, you will undergo screening by technology or a pat-down. TSA officers may swab your hands, mobility aids, equipment or other external devices to test for explosives. You may encounter screening inconsistencies among U.S. airports. Although the rules are the same everywhere for travelers and TSA enforcement, sometimes the officer does not understand the rules. Cooperate and, if possible, throw the object in question into the trashcan. The important thing is to know the rules and follow them. If challenged by the TSA, understand why and cooperate, for your safety and that of other passengers. As mentioned in last month’s column, the TSA website at tsa.gov provides a blog discussing advances in security and innovation at airports worldwide, travel tips, a real ID section (as checkpoint ID requirements change) and a disabilities and medical conditions section.
The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.
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FX Excursions FX Excursions offer a chance for a once-in-a-lifetime experience in a destination around the world. The unique itineraries, exclusively created by and for FXExpress Publications, Inc. and its partners, allow participants to go hands-on at a worldwide event or see an international city in a new way. All the planning and sightseeing is handled for attendees, from the flights and accommodations to the itinerary. Visit our websites — globaltravelerusa.com, whereverfamily.com and trazeetravel.com — to learn more about our three tour options, including suggested itineraries in worldwide destinations and recommended tours travelers can book at leisure through our preferred tour partner. Our Specialty Tours allow you to travel with us on a handcrafted agenda around the globe.
THE US GRANT, a Luxury Collection Hotel, San Diego On Oct. 15, 1910, THE US GRANT opened its doors to a flurry of excitement extending across the globe. The ultimate gift from a son to his father, THE US GRANT was built with untold luxury to commemorate the legacy of the 18th U.S. president, Ulysses S. Grant. Luxury features at the hotel’s opening included an open-air terrace, two saltwater plunge pools and the Bivouac Dining Room. To coincide with the opening, the world’s first electrically lit fountain opened in Horton Park. In 2017 the hotel completed a $13 million refresh which included an update of the lobby, meeting and wedding venues, fitness center and all 270 guestrooms. 82
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PHOTOS: © THE US GRANT, A LUXURY COLLECTION HOTEL, SAN DIEGO
past & present