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letter from the editor ®
EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com
MEMORIES ON THE MAP THIS ISSUE WAS A trip down memory lane as I recounted some wonderful memories from 2017. In this month’s Spas article, I recalled a blissful spa visit at Sandpearl Resort while in Clearwater Beach, Fla., for a friend’s wedding. On page 67 I was transported back to Thailand, where I spent a few days in Chiang Mai, including a half-day experience at an elephant sanctuary. And lastly, I take you all along on a bucket-list trip to Chernobyl, Ukraine. You might be surprised to learn it’s a trending destination. I share my thoughts on page 74. We also reflect on the 2017 GT Tested Reader Survey award winners and our celebration fete at The Peninsula Beverly Hills. On the following pages, see photos of some of the industry’s top movers and shakers as they collect the awards you, our readers, bestowed upon them. Don’t forget: Voting is on for 2018. Find the ballot in this issue or online. We also invite you to vote in The Trazees at trazeetravel.com, and the Wherever Awards BEACH BUDDIES: at whereverfamily.com, awards from our two sister web Kimberly Krol and friend at Opal Sands (the sister hotel of the Sandpearl Resort featured on page 28); the impressive publications. sand sculptures can be found in the Clearwater Beach Speaking of family, we explore the leading family hotel’s lobby. travel destinations around the globe on page 48. As I was PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL reading Steve Jermanok’s article, I recalled a two-week cross-country trek with my parents and grandmother when I was around 12 years old — another blast from the past. We went to Yellowstone and Mount Rushmore, among other places, and today, two decades later, national parks still top the list for family vacations. For daily updates on the world of family travel, visit whereverfamily.com; it’s your trusted travel source for the modern family. We’re all over the map in this issue as we also journey to İstanbul, Tokyo, Cincinnati, Warsaw, Durban, Managua and the Philippines. Next month we travel from Singapore to the Azores, from Iceland to Oslo in our second annual Green Issue. Join us on that eco-friendly trip around the world.
Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor NICOLE QUASTÉ nicole.quaste@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Content Producer DEBRA BOKUR debra.bokur@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Digital Coordinator ALLIE MENZIONE allie.menzione@globaltravelerusa.com ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN
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ive family All-inclus the in s rt so re and Caribbean pecially es o, ic ex M wned Spanish-o erostar Ib d an Riu prove , es ti er prop s to on ti op good laxing spend a re e beach. week on th about e or m d Rea el on av tr ily fam page 48.
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IN THE MOMENT I JUST RETURNED from a whirlwind trip to Miami, Atlanta and Florida’s Gulf Coast, flying American Airlines from Philadelphia to Miami, where GT’s Ashley Richards met me. It was wonderful to see friends at Avianca, Silversea Cruises and LATAM, not to mention the sushi we enjoyed with Meridiana Airlines. American’s spectacular regional flight got me from MIA to ATL. With the recently ON THE LIST: Francis X. Gallagher enjoying his 15 minutes of fame at ATL added jetway, passengers no longer have to PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER lug a rollaboard up stairs to the small jets, and overhead space on board is more than sufficient. I was honored to see Celebrated Living, AA’s first-class in-flight magazine, devoted a full page to our Wines on the Wing wine competition. GT staff and airlines work hard to make sure these impeccable wines are judged by the best sommeliers, wine shop owners and wine journalists in New York. This May, The Pierre hosts the event, and we’re adding Wines on the Water, the best in cruising. GT’s Julie Haupin and Will Papa flew from Philly and joined me for a lovely meal at Canoe on the Chattahoochee River. Not long ago the river flooded the restaurant with five feet of water. But canoes like water, and the refurbished restaurant now offers a slightly Southern Australian menu. Another night we headed to the Cherokee Club in Buckhead, where the staff treats everyone like lifelong members. (See Will’s blog about our super experience.) Seeing our good friends at Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport was the highlight. Charles Ewing, director of concessions, and Jai Ferrell, marketing director, are on point to improve the passenger experience, turning ATL into a destination. It offers the greatest restaurant options (One Flew South is my favorite) and the friendliest staff, including those at concessions. Last stop in ATL was the Porsche Experience. I was there for business but emailed a friend to accompany me. Porsche has so many vehicles! Step into the Macan and then step up to a 911 630bhp Turbo S (2019). For a small fee, take one of the skillfully made autos on the Experience Track. If you order a car, Porsche delivers it to ATL or LAX with white-glove treatment. I drove through Alabama, passing Montgomery and Tuskegee, wishing I had time to tour the Tuskegee Airmen National Museum. I passed the Kia (Georgia) and Hyundai factories, and as I cut through rural Alabama, time seemed to turn back. Finally arriving in Florida’s panhandle, I got to the beach in time for sunset and savored the moment — the right choice, as not a single sunset over the next three days was as perfect. So, travelers, savor the moment and celebrate the best, whether it’s thousands of miles from home or a drive on a business trip or anyplace in between. Between just might surprise you!
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BUSINESS DESTINATIONS
32 Around the World with GT GT Tested Reader Survey Awards 2017 Recap
56 Destination One: Tokyo Tokyo rises to the challenge of a repeat Olympic performance.
48 The World Awaits Make memories at the best family travel destinations around the globe.
62 Stateside: Cincinnati Revitalization takes Cincinnati from ailing to amazing.
52 At the Crossroads İstanbul remains an exceptional destination to bring people together.
64 9–5: Warsaw Warsaw’s reconstructed center attracts business travelers and tourists.
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66 After 5: Durban With local knowledge, visitors can safely sample the city’s nightlife.
MARCH 2018
ON THE COVER globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99
THE WORLD AWAITS
Make memories at the best family travel destinations around the globe. p. 48
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CHERNOBYL p. 74 CHIANG MAI p. 68 CINCINNATI p. 62 DURBAN p. 66 MANAGUA p. 70 PHILIPPINES p. 76 TOKYO p. 56 WARSAW p. 64
COVER PHOTO: FAMILY TRAVEL © NATALIADERIABINA | DREAMSTIME.COM
46.COM, © ANDREI BORTNIKAU | DREAMSTIME.COM
FEATURES
PHOTOS: © NICOLAS BATES, © EZZIAN ~~~~~~~ | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ATTILA JANDI | DREAMSTIME
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LIFESTYLE
CONNECTIONS
LEISURE DESTINATIONS
24 Technology 26 Wine & Spirits 27 Tours 28 Spas 30 Chefs 31 Cruising 79 LGBTQ 81 Health
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67 Neighborhoods: Chiang Mai Gain a deeper understanding of pachyderms at Thailand’s reputable sanctuaries.
Mail Call News Reviews One on One Former Minister of Antiquities, Egypt 22 One on One Reilly Financial Advisors 80 Airport Update
70 Friends & Family: Managua Discover the unexpected pleasures of Nicaragua’s capital city. 74 Bucket List: Chernobyl A tour of Chernobyl unearths haunting images of the nuclear accident. 76 Kicking Back: Philippines Explore Vigan’s Spanish-Asian heritage and charm.
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FX E X P R E S S
P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .
Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2018 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.
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mail call JANUARY Q&A WITH JANICE HECHT In the January 2018 issue, senior editor Janice Hecht talked about train travel. She fell in love with the mode of transportation when she toured Europe at 19, and, recently, Janice and her husband rode the rails from Connecticut to Atlanta in a cozy sleeper compartment. On her bucket list is an extended excursion on a luxury train like the Belmond Royal Scotsman. She asked readers, “Do you enjoy traveling by train? Have you had a rail experience you would recommend to other travelers?” I have taken Amtrak’s crosscountry trains multiple times, whether the Empire Builder or California Zephyr; and each time, while my frustrations may have increased over the state of the equipment, the experience was one I would never regret. The people you meet, whether the train crew, tourists from Europe (who usually regret the trip) or some of America’s most interesting people, I come away refreshed and energized. Of course, I always do take a sleeper to ensure my own space. But it is imperative all new riders take it in stride — delays are inevitable — just relax and build in enough time so you do not worry. On my recent trip to South Africa, I thought a long time about taking the Blue Train from Pretoria to Cape Town. With fabulous reviews and renovated cars from years ago, I wanted to make it happen, but due to scheduling I was un-
Q&A WITH WITH ASHLEY RICHARDS, ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Having recently attended The New York Times Travel Show, I’m wondering what really captures the interest of tourists prior to planning a trip. From booth to booth, I saw everything from cuisine and entertainment to history and even some fashion. What do you look for when planning a first-time trip to a destination; and if you’ve completed a recent trip, did it meet your expectations? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com
able to pull it off. Like you, taking a cross-country Canadian rail trip is on my bucket list — and hopefully a return to South Africa. BRADLEY SEITZ, Portland, Maine Like Janice, I realized how much I love rail travel while exploring Europe when I was younger. One of my favorite places to travel by train is France. There’s always something beautiful to look at through the window, and the landscape changes so much coast to coast. As someone who could never quite get used to driving on the other side of the road, the train is my go-to. Scotland is on my bucket list — either the Far North Line or West Highland Line on the Jacobite Steam Train. MARISSA HUMMEL, via email It’s funny, because I take public transportation to work most days, and I have trouble envisioning taking a train for pleasure after
all the regular frustrations. That being said, there’s definitely something romantic about the idea of an old-timey train ride through the countryside. I’d love to do a cross-country train ride. If I ever decide to take a trip, I’ll write in! ARLENE CROUSE, Boston, Mass.
STOPOVER PROGRAMS In the January 2018 issue, reader Susan Lafarge shared her thoughts on stopover programs. We asked our Globility Board to weigh in with some advice on taking advantage of the programs. Singapore Airlines offers free stopovers and works with the Singapore airport to offer free city tours to anyone with a long layover. There are several options to choose from, ranging from a few hours to a half-day tour. ERIC CHIANG, Globility Board member
HOTEL REWARDS In the Jan. 3, 2018, edition of eFlyer USA we revealed the results of personal finance website WalletHub’s survey to find the best hotel rewards program. The overall best program, according to the survey, was Wyndham Rewards. I have to agree with WalletHub’s findings about the rewards programs. I’m enrolled with several and they’re all fine, but Wyndham’s award nights roll over year-to-year, so there’s no last-minute panic to use or lose them. Wyndham doesn’t have as many properties as, say, Marriott or Hilton, but I enjoy the few nicer hotels it does offer like the Midtown 45 in New York. I also find IHG’s program to be better than most. JIM HOGARTH, via email It all depends on what you’re looking for, but I’m going to have to go with Starwood. I think it has
CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.
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the best properties, and earning free nights seems easier than with other brands. I also really like Wyndham; the rollover policy is great. I stayed at the Wyndham Hamilton Park Hotel recently, and it was superb. CLARK BECKER, New York, N.Y.
TECH AND TRAVEL In the Jan. 17, 2018, edition of eFlyer USA, we covered some of the top innovations unveiled at CES, the world’s largest consumer electronics conference, and predicted which technologies will likely make an appearance in the travel industry. We asked readers,“What are your thoughts on the recent tech trends as they relate to travel?” I didn’t get a chance to attend this, but I really would have liked to. It’s always interesting to see these large-scale innovations tuned down and implemented in day-to-day products. I wasn’t surprised at all to start seeing Amazon Alexa pop up in hotel rooms, and I think it’s safe to say far more hotels will buy those Peloton bikes. Love it or hate it, tech isn’t going anywhere when it comes to travel. RYAN LINDSAY, via email I don’t know how necessary they are, but robots making their way around a hotel would certainly be entertaining. So much has changed when it comes to technology in such a short period of time, not much surprises me anymore. You never know what new thing you’re going to find when you walk into a hotel or airport. I’ve stayed in a couple of hotels lately that have tablets next to the bed or on the desk that let you request room service, set a wake-up call and control lights. Can’t say I hated it! ELLIOTT LEIS, via email
UNITED MILEAGEPLUS CHANGES I didn’t realize the changes in United’s MileagePlus program until I saw your news column, so I looked into it. It looks like complimentary upgrades on certain important routes are a thing of the past,
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and it’ll take more award miles to fly business or first. It looks like it doesn’t affect economy saver awards, so that’s a plus. EDWARD SPEARS, via email
HANGZHOU
IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE kicking back | COOK
ISLANDS
I loved the interview with Kim Day, CEO, Denver International Airport, in the January issue — great column, by the way. It’s one of my favorite airports; I’m there two to three times per month. I can attest to Ms. Day’s statement about having the fastest WiFi. It’s one of the only airports where I never have trouble working in the lounge or at the gate. The food’s also great. I recommend Root Down in Concourse C.
FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY
Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.
I
n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods. As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20. And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites. Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish. Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine. IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth. Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind andoffering soul ain is clean, crisp and refreshing, famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands. BY mouth. BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones. PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit. 72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste.
INFO TO GO
A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.
ICELAND
ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE A
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LUXURIOUS LAUNCHES AmaWaterways widens the world of river cruising.
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AMAWATERWAYS HAS BEEN at the forefront of river cruising since its launch 15 years ago, establishing its high reputation on the grand rivers of Europe, chiefly the Danube and the Rhine. Now it expands its reputation not only with new highend appointments but also with features designed to appeal to younger, more active passengers. Headquartered in California, the line operates 19 river vessels, each serving no more than 164 passengers. The cabins are spacious for river ships, the service highly attentive and the cuisine sterling. AmaWaterways was the first river cruise line inducted into La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, and its specialty restaurant, Chef ’s Table, with a true tasting menu, is available at no extra cost to all passengers at least once on each voyage. Wine, beer and soft drinks are complimentary at lunch and dinner, as are sparkling wine and fresh fruit juices at breakfast. Also included in the fare: internet access, WiFi and a shore excursion at each port. AmaWaterways will enhance these standard, nearly all-inclusive amenities in 2018 with a free Sip & Sail daily cocktail hour and a wellness program featuring healthful menus and group exercise programs. AmaWaterways, long noted for wine cruises, offers vintners and wine tastings on board as well as excursions to nearby vine-
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yards, and there are more than 50 such sailings slated for 2018. AmaWaterways was also the first river cruise line to provide a fleet of bicycles, enabling passengers to make independent port excursions. Group biking adventures are also on tap, some arranged by AmaWaterways’ new partner, Backroads, an international operator well-regarded for its biking and hiking trips. While AmaWaterways’ two newest ships, AnaKristina (2017) and AnaLea (2018), ply primarily the Rhine and the Danube, the line is branching out to explore more adventurous riverbanks. The Zambezi Queen sails Botswana’s Chobe River for four-day cruises that can be combined seamlessly with seven-day wildlife safaris in East Africa. Another ship, the AmaDaral, cruises the Mekong River in Vietnam and Cambodia; in 2018 it will offer its own wine cruise hosted by California’s Sbragia Family Vineyards. AmaWaterways intends to increase further its level of luxury cruising and its appeal to more active passengers in 2019 with the launch of the AmaMagma on the Danube River, a super river ship with an open-water sports platform. Twice the width of its other river vessels, AmaWaterways’ ship of the future will be yet more luxurious and sports-oriented — fully in line with current trends in river cruising.
GO WITH THE FLOW:
AmaKristina (left); guided bicycle tour in Dürnstein, Austria (top right); and Sandeman Winery tasting (bottom right) PHOTOS: © AMAWATERWAYS
ays aterw AmaW nch its will lau , most newest p us shi spacio the , 19 in 20 agma, AmaM th the wid twice other of its ships, river uries with lux . tch to ma
JANUARY 2018
LUXURIOUS LAUNCHES I loved the AmaWaterways article! It’s one of my all-time favorite cruise lines. My husband and I did the Rhine Christmas market cruise in December. It was our third cruise with Ama, and it did not disappoint. The staterooms are a bit small, I think, but since you’re seldom in them, it’s not a problem. The ship was so festive and the food was fantastic. We always prefer river to traditional cruises. They’re far more scenic, and you get a much more personalized experience. They’re well worth the money. BARBARA BURKE, Miami, Fla.
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Availa at the
news Technology Changes Coming to Travel in 2018
NEW DOMESTIC ROUTES TO LAUNCH IN 2018 The year 2018 brings a slew of new domestic flight routes that connect Americans with new cities, expanding what constitutes a desirable vacation destination. United Airlines, the first to roll out new routes, will offer direct flights from Chicago (ORD), Denver (DEN), Los Angeles (LAX), New York’s Newark International Airport and Washington’s Dulles International Airport to El Paso (ELP), Jacksonville (JAX) and Missoula (MSO), all available starting in April. American Airlines plans to introduce 10 new routes also beginning in April, including Chicago to Bangor (BGR), Charleston (CHS) and Myrtle Beach (MYR). Travelers will be able to fly American from Dallas-Fort Worth (DFW) to Asheville (AVL) and Oklahoma City (IKC), while New Yorkers can soon fly from LaGuardia Airport to Traverse City (TVC) as well as Portland, Maine (PWM). Beginning in June, Delta Air Lines will fly non-stop between San José (SJC) and New York’s John F. Kennedy International Airport.
PHOTOS: © REDWOOD8 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © DELTA, © NILSZ | DREAMSTIME.COM
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Each year, the aviation industry brings easier, faster and more efficient travel to customers. A few of these improvements for 2018 come in the way of technology and will remove some time-consuming steps involved in the travel process. First, passengers may no longer need to check in at the airport or on mobile phones, as now most airlines will take care of this for their passengers. Delta Air Lines, for example, will automatically check in its passengers 24 hours before departure, so long as travelers downloaded Delta’s mobile app. Other airlines that already began to check in select travelers include Lufthansa, Swiss International Air Lines and Southwest Airlines. For those who do check in at the airport, robots may take the place of human assistants. LG created a model that can travel
throughout the arrivals terminal and help passengers with common questions in multiple languages. After its debut at San José (SJC) and Oakland (OAK) airports, the robot’s international debut will take place during the 2018 Olympic Games at Incheon International Airport in Seoul, South Korea.
Bag Fees on International Flights
Long-distance travelers who once relied on free checked bags will soon experience a serious inconvenience when it comes to luggage. In an effort to keep prices low and compete with the onslaught of discount long-haul airlines, the major players began to remove the complimentary checked bag that used to come with an international itinerary. Beginning in April, Delta Air Lines passengers who book a Basic Economy ticket on a trans-Atlantic flight will incur a checked bag fee of $50 for the first bag and $100 for the second bag. However, travelers who book tickets in Delta’s Main Cabin or in a Comfort+ seat can check one bag for free and a second bag for an additional fee. Other domestic carriers may follow this pattern, but currently both American Airlines and United offer one free checked bag, with an additional fee for the second checked bag.
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news
Russia to Open 5-Star Space Hotel
Business travelers rely on planes, trains and other modes of transit to transport them around the world for their jobs. Exposure to these public environments where the air quality is questionable and germs abound makes it more likely for frequent travelers to contract diseases like the common cold. The New York Times recently published the results of a 2011 study from Columbia University’s Mailman School of Public Health which reveal business travelers who travel more than 20 days
per month are more likely to have a higher body mass index, higher blood pressure and higher levels of LDL cholesterol. Contributing factors to these poor health conditions include less free time for exercise, fewer options for healthy meals, increased alcohol consumption and the general stressors involved with travel. Rather than succumbing to the less-thanhealthy method of business travel, doctors recommend scheduling time for visits to the hotel gym and opting for alcohol-free beverages and healthy snacks over greasy food and hours-long happy hours after meetings.
Hilton’s Smart Hotel Rooms Debut
As technological advances make the travel world smarter, faster and more convenient for travelers, hotel brands latch onto the latest developments to keep properties up to date and guests at the forefront of the future. Hilton Worldwide is one such property group that plans to debut “connected rooms” in 2018, a concept allowing guests to control various aspects of their stay from their own smartphone or tablet. Once a guest checks in at a Hilton property, the app detects the guest’s preferences, previously entered into the app. Guests will be able to adjust these settings from the app, including the brightness of the room’s lights, controls for video streaming services or controls for the temperature of the room. Hilton plans to launch the first series of these rooms in Memphis, followed by further testing rooms in Dallas. hilton.com
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PHOTOS: © CUNAPLUS | DREAMSTIME.COM, © HILTON, © FORPLAYDAY | DREAMSTIME.COM
Business Travelers Susceptible to Illness
Travelers who have $40 million lying around come 2022 may have the chance to book a room at a luxury hotel in outer space. Russia announced plans to build an accommodation at its international space station with four sleeping areas, “personal hygiene” facilities and amenities, and a shared lounge for all guests. Located 250 miles above Earth, guests will be able to view their surroundings through portholes measuring 9 inches in diameter or through larger windows in the lounge measuring 16 inches in diameter. The entire “property” will extend only 50 feet and will remain open only for six years. Guests who want to take part in the optional spacewalk excursion offered by the hotel must stay for one month and pay an additional $20 million.
PHOTOS: © SLAWEK KOZAKIEWICZ | DREAMSTIME.COM, © TEA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © TUPUNGATO | DREAMSTIME.COM, © JONATHAN WEISS | DREAMSTIME.COM
deals & rewards
Sneaky Ways to Score Points
Airport Loyalty Program Perks
It’s rare to meet a traveler not part of a frequent-flyer program of some sort, but it is also rare to meet travelers who are members of airport loyalty programs. Not many know you can earn travel miles, points and rewards just by joining an airport loyalty program. London’s Heathrow Airport, for example, offers membership to Heathrow Rewards, an app-controlled program that lets you collect points by patronizing the airport’s shops, restaurants, parking lots and even the shuttles. Members also can collect points for this program through the Emirates Skywards program and Lufthansa’s Miles & More program. Members of Copenhagen Airport’s CPH Advantage program can enjoy free WiFi access in the airport as well as discounts on shopping, parking and access to airport lounges. Stateside, the Thanks Again program lets members earn and redeem rewards at more than 100 airports nationwide. If you’re not sure whether an airport you frequent offers such perks, visit the website to make sure you’re not missing out on some easy rewards. thanksagain.com
Earn Points by Sharing Your Thoughts
One lesser-known method to collect points and miles for rewards programs is as easy as providing your opinion about random subjects. To sign up for a free membership on the Opinion Miles website, enter your rewards account number and email address, then complete a short survey about your em-
ployment status and income; your answers will help the Opinion Miles team select the most appropriate surveys for you. To earn your first 10 bonus points, you can fully complete your profile page by answering questions about your spending habits, household and plans for the future. Miles and points earned through opinion surveys will be automatically transferred to your chosen rewards account.
Although some of the best ways to accumulate travel rewards and points involve the actual act of travel, there are heaps of other ways rewards members can tack on points without even packing a suitcase. Depending on the month, Hilton Honors members who book select hotel rooms through Hilton’s mobile application and use a Visa credit card can earn bonuses of up to 5,000 points, or triple points when using another credit card. A program called Rewards Network can help travelers earn up to 10 miles per dollar spent when they dine and/or shop at participating venues. To take part in this promotion, rewards members must sign up on the website and register the credit card they will be using at these retailers. Starwood Preferred Guest members can earn Starpoints on Uber rides, so long as they book at least one qualifying stay at a Starwood property each year. Renting a car with Hertz also can score miles with Delta Air Lines’ or United’s programs. rewardsnetwork.com
opinionmilesclub.com
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GT tested
THE BEVERLY HILTON Reviewed by Janice Hecht
Guest Quarters: The hotel hallways display black-and-white photographs of celebrities; across from my room, Marilyn Monroe greeted me each day. My fifth-floor Wilshire Tower deluxe room opened into a spacious foyer with a closet on the left and a sliding door to the bathroom on the right. This door held a full-length mirror worthy of a star’s dressing room. Natural light streamed in through the far wall of floorto-ceiling windows where sliding glass doors led to a balcony overlooking the pool, with views of the city. The balcony table and chairs offered a perfect place to unwind or, as I did, watch the sunrise. This wall of glass combined with high ceilings and neutral décor made the 344-square-foot room open and airy. A king-sized bed provided restful sleep with its pillow-top mattress and cozy linens. Across from the bed, a desk held convenient outlets and an iPad for accessing guest services. Next to the desk, an LCD TV hung above a dresser and minibar. Seating included a comfortable chair by the windows and a bench at the foot of the bed.
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The spacious marble bathroom featured a single sink with lots of built-in storage and a glamorous round mirror above, plus a small TV screen on the wall. The lighting could have been brighter, but a lighted make-up mirror on the counter served its purpose. The toilet and shower were behind two separate frosted glass doors. The L’Occitane lemon verbena toiletries were heavenly — even the wash cloths were scented with lemon, a refreshing touch. I felt like a pampered celebrity wearing the silky robe lined with soft terrycloth. Services/Amenities: Opened in 1955, The Beverly Hilton has a history as home to the stars and as the Western White House (every president since JFK, except Trump, has stayed here). Host to the Golden Globe Awards for 48 years, the hotel boasts 60,000 square feet of indoor and open-air event space. The most recent update is The Gardens, a stunning outdoor venue incorporating The Wilshire Garden and The Secret Garden, hosting fashion shows, weddings, corporate events and movie shoots. The Aqua Star Pool is the largest heated pool in Beverly Hills, christened by Esther Williams in 1955. Angelina Jolie jumped in after winning her second Golden Globe. I made sure to take a dip in these storied waters my last afternoon at the hotel. Offering indoor and outdoor seating, CIRCA 55 serves breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as Sunday Champagne brunch. I enjoyed a delicious, leisurely breakfast poolside my first morning in L.A. Guests and locals also gather at the Lobby Lounge & Barista Bar (grab a coffee and baked goods if you don’t have time for that poolside breakfast). In-room dining is available 24 hours, as is a well-equipped fitness center.
TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ The hotel offers a house car for local trips. Be prepared to wait a bit if it’s a busy day. ◆ Be aware the showerhead is so powerful you must close the glass door before turning on the water so the bathroom floor doesn’t flood. ◆ Seek out The Secret Garden (when it’s not hosting an event) for a tranquil spot to sit among greenery and waterfalls. ◆ The late-afternoon turndown was soothing: bedding prepared, chocolates on the pillows, robe on the bed, drapes drawn, soft lights glowing and classical music playing on the Bose sound system. I almost didn’t want to go back out for evening events! THE BEVERLY HILTON 9876 Wilshire Blvd. Beverly Hills, CA 90210 tel 310 274 7777 hilton.com
PHOTOS: © THE BEVERLY HILTON
Arrival/Check-In: I arrived in Los Angeles early afternoon, grateful for the warm weather after a long flight from snowy Connecticut. The Beverly Hilton, legendary for its star-studded events and Old Hollywood glamour, knows how to roll out the red carpet. A cheerful doorman greeted me at my taxi and directed me to the front desk. The lobby shimmered with Christmas lights which, along with the sunshine, put me in a festive mood. My room was ready, and in a few minutes the friendly attendant checked me in. As I left the desk, the doorman appeared with complimentary bottles of water and wished me a happy holiday.
GT tested
LUXE RODEO DRIVE HOTEL Reviewed by Patricia Vanikiotis
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
PHOTOS: © PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS
Arrival/Check-In: The entrance to the Luxe Rodeo Drive Hotel sits beneath a bright red awning directly on Beverly Hills’ famed Rodeo Drive, right between the Michael Kors and Rolex stores. The valet helped us from our car, gathered our luggage and directed us inside. It took a few moments for my eyes to adjust from the bright sunlight outside to the black-painted walls of the long, sloping entrance ramp that led to the check-in desk at the rear of the lobby. The clerk greeted us, reviewed the features of the Luxe Club ($35 per guest per night) and had us on our way to our room in a jiffy. On the way we quickly surveyed the lounge where libations and light bites are available, next to some comfortable conversation areas. Shortly after we arrived at our room, our luggage was dropped off, and a hotel representative stopped by with a tray of macarons, bottles of water and a bottle of a California Cabernet Sauvignon. A pleasant welcome! Guest Quarters: Our superior room offered just over 180 square feet of compact but comfortable space, with a soothing neutral color palette in soft green, beige and gray. A roomy closet just to the left of the entrance held a safe, ironing board and iron, two soft bathrobes and (a big plus in my book) plenty of sturdy wooden hangers. A queen-sized bed dominated the room, dressed in quality linens and duvet and providing an excellent night’s sleep. A bedside table and lamp sat to one side, with a moderately sized desk and straight-backed chair on the other. USB ports and outlets featured on both surfaces, along with an Apple docking station and a tablet for in-room use. Across from the bed sat a comfortable armchair and a credenza housing several drawers, a fully stocked minibar and a Keurig coffeemaker. A 42-inch flatscreen TV was mounted on the wall above. We found the bathroom just a bit cramped for two. Mirrors covered the upper half of two walls, making the space seem larger, but a pedestal sink and a 6-inch-wide marble shelf running along two sides didn’t really provide sufficient space for all our toiletries. The full tub/shower combination featured a rain showerhead, and while the water pressure was adequate, the supply of hot water varied widely at different times of the day. Nü Natüra bath amenities featured a mild, clean, refreshing scent appealing to both gentlemen and ladies. Services/Amenities: In addition to WiFi, the Luxe Club fee provides one access to food and beverages at virtually all hours of the day in the lobby-level lounge. Continental breakfast included hot entrées; lunchtime offerings always provided a de-
◆ This 88-room boutique hotel offers the perfect location for those seeking direct access to all the glitz, glam and retail therapy Rodeo Drive has to offer. ◆ The in-room tablet provided quick access to information about the hotel; nearby shops, restaurants and entertainment options; and ondemand, in-room movies and programming. ◆ The Luxe Club proved a great value. With a selection of beers, wine and handcrafted cocktails during happy hour and hot and cold food selections available throughout the day, one needn’t leave the hotel to seek nourishment.
licious housemade soup and sandwiches; and evenings included hors d’oeuvres served with a selection of beers, wines, soft drinks and cocktails. Both the food and service were first-rate. While the Luxe Rodeo Drive does not have a pool, The 360 Rooftop offers space to relax in the sun or shade. Also located on this level, the fitness center features free weights and weight machines, and one can enjoy the view while on a stationary bike, elliptical or treadmill underneath a canopy outdoors. Spa services provided by The Spa on Rodeo include massages and facials and may be arranged in-room or in the treatment rooms at the Rooftop. The hotel’s meeting and event spaces can accommodate groups from 10 to 120 guests, with AV equipment, menu options and event planning available.
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◆ I appreciated being able to open the window, which looked out on Rodeo Drive, to the fresh night air. The neighborhood is surprisingly quiet all night long. LUXE RODEO DRIVE HOTEL 260 N. Rodeo Drive Beverly Hills, CA 90210 tel 310 273 0300 luxehotels.com
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GT tested
GRAND FIESTA AMERICANA CHAPULTEPEC Reviewed by Carly Allen
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TOP TAKEAWAYS:
Guest Quarters: My deluxe room was located on a lower floor but still offered a partial view of the Chapultepec Castle from its floor-to-ceiling window. Lots of natural light filtered into the room and onto the club chair with ottoman, great for sitting and taking care of a few emails. A large desk included an extra outlet attached to the lamp for charging needs, convenient albeit a little old-school. The wall-mounted television hung above the minibar, and the minibar counter held lots of bottled water. The comfortable king-sized bed and the room’s quiet heater made for a nice night’s sleep. The large bathroom featured lots of lighting and a wide-
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open marble vanity space, perfect for spreading out. L’Occitane products and bottled water for guests were refreshed twice daily. The tub/shower combination was a decent size and provided nice hot water and pressure. The closet in the hall featured full-length mirrored doors and held a large safe, which I used, and a plush robe. Services/Amenities: I spent quite a bit of time at the hotel’s restaurant located on the mezzanine level. During lunch and dinner it’s a full-service restaurant, and I have to say it serves the best tortilla soup I have ever tasted, made with fresh cream and chilies. Don’t worry, it’s available from room service as well. I also hosted a casual meeting during the bustling breakfast and buffet service, and it seemed like a hot spot for the business traveler crowd. The property has a 24-hour gym for guests, but considering its location right on Paseo de la Reforma, with the park and museums just a block away, I suggest getting outside for a walk if you have the time. The area is filled with tourists, families, street carts and vendors on the weekends and seems a pretty safe area during the day — just watch out for cars! Neighboring areas like Condesa and Polanco offer plenty of boutiques and restaurants for you to explore.
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◆ Location, location, location. The property is perfectly situated for business meetings and exploring local museums and restaurants. ◆ Try the breakfast buffet and the tortilla soup for dinner. ◆ The staff is friendly, at the ready to provide directions and suggestions and to get you a car to your next destination. GRAND FIESTA AMERICANA CHAPULTEPEC Av. Mariano Escobedo 756 Anzures, 11590 Miguel Hidalgo, CDMX Mexico tel 52 55 2581 1500 grandfiestamericana.com
PHOTOS: © GRAND FIESTA AMERICANA CHAPULTEPEC
Arrival/Check-In: I arrived in Mexico City on a sunny but chilly Sunday afternoon. The Grand Fiesta Americana Chapultepec offers a car service from the airport for about 200 pesos, worth the extra spend for its convenience. However, Uber is up and running in Mexico City and makes a good alternative; I used it getting around the city a few times on this trip. I arrived at the hotel in less than 45 minutes, and the bellman helped me into the cool marble lobby with its twostory ceiling, spiral staircase and coffee bar. Check-in was easy, and my room was ready despite my early arrival time.
CMY
one on one
ZAHI HAWASS Former Minister of Antiquities, Egypt Best career advice you’ve received: The most important thing is to have passion for archaeology. The passion I’ve had for this field since I was 20 makes every word that comes out of my mouth reach the hearts of people all over the world. The love from my fans and the awards I receive (more than 30) are like advice to me. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? You must have passion! AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: I give lectures all over the world but seldom get to see the countries. In Peru I had time to visit all the archaeological sites. In the hotel elevator in Lima, an English lady asked, “Are you Zahi Hawass?” I said, “Yes,” and she fainted!
PHOTO: © DR. ZAHI HAWASS
One travel tip you cannot live without: Take natural sleeping pills to pass the flight time. I always catch up on things I missed because of my busy schedule and watch them on my iPad. Switch off your phone. Name: Zahi Hawass Title: Former Minister of Antiquities Company, city: Consultant; Cairo, Egypt Number of employees: Three to four assistants Recent project: Director of excavation at Valley of the Kings, monthly lecture series for American tourists with a tour company, other lectures around the world, writing articles for publications in Egypt, preparing the second part of my autobiography First job: Inspector of Antiquities at Tuna El-Gebel in Middle Egypt Little-known fact about you: I get really nervous and annoyed when I meet any stupid man or woman.
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YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? There is great potential for tourism in Egypt; the country is safe, and all archaeological sites are completely protected. The proof is Archaeological Paths, which brought more than 3,000 Americans to Egypt in the last three years. However, Egypt can promote tourism more. We need to send a great exhibit to tour the world and globally advertise new archaeological discoveries. The Minister of Tourism should make a worldwide tour with representatives from tourism companies, hotels and Egyptologists; PR companies from the visited countries could properly promote the tour.
Best advice for business travelers: Do not spend all your time on business. Make time for visiting archaeological sites. One cannot come to Egypt and not see the pyramids and the Cairo Museum. ABOUT YOUR BRAND What can premium travelers expect from Archaeological Paths’ Royal Tour to Egypt? It is magical. Imagine being alone in the early morning between the paws of the Sphinx, seeing the tombs of the pyramid builders alone in a private tour or walking around the Luxor Temple at night and enjoying the serenity. It is called the Royal
Tour because of these special experiences. Tell our readers more about your exciting career. Every discovery takes us one step closer to uncovering the truth about the mysteries of the ancient Egyptians. At the University of Pennsylvania I presented a theory in my doctoral dissertation that the tombs of the pyramid builders lay beyond Heit ElGhorabt. When I returned to Egypt, I discovered the tombs exactly where I argued they would be. I worked with my team for three years and found the Valley of the Golden Mummies. We also found the cult pyramid of the Pyramid of Khufu at the southeast corner of the Great Pyramid. It was a room for the king to change into a kilt for the HebSed festival in which he danced to show his athletic powers and prove he was king for eternity. We also revealed secrets about the mummy of Hatshepsut in the Egyptian Mummy Project, solved the murder of Ramses III, determined how Tutankhamun died and discovered his family. What common misconceptions about travel to Egypt would you like to dispel? I would like people not to believe the media’s exaggeration about the terrorist events in Egypt. These events can happen anywhere in the world, and all the incidents in Egypt took place far from the archaeological sites. If people stop traveling to Egypt, the terrorists will succeed. We need to stand against those who want to destroy the world. To visit Egypt is to send a strong message and help restore and protect the Egyptian monuments, which belong to people all over the world, not only to Egyptians.
one on one
FRANK REILLY President, Reilly Financial Advisors
your carry-on; lost luggage can happen to anyone! ABOUT YOUR BRAND What services does Reilly Financial Advisors offer? RFA offers wealth building for those still accumulating their investment portfolios; wealth management for those who amassed their savings and have specific needs associated with their wealth; and wealth legacy for those who accumulated a significant amount of wealth and face unique wealth transition needs. We also provide corporate retirement services with tailored solutions for plan sponsors and participants.
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YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? I foresee a major overhaul to the retirement plan business with clearly disclosed fees. Legislation will require a true fiduciary standard, meaning all financial services professionals who advise people on their investments will have to provide advice truly aimed at helping their client, not themselves. We will see a mass injection of heirs unsure how to manage the wealth they’ve inherited, and there will be a mass exodus of smaller advisors. Best career advice you’ve received: Under-promise, over-deliver. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? This industry is not what it
was when I started 30 years ago. Expect change, and be prepared to operate much differently 30 years from now. AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: When my wife and I were married, we were gifted two first-class, around-the-world plane tickets. We were living it up until it came to our expenditures; I’ll never forget driving a 5-year-old manual Fiat Panda from Rome to Geneva. One travel tip you cannot live without: Choose one airline alliance and one hotel alliance. Book all your travel through both in order to maximize status and points for future “free” travels. Best advice for business travelers: Always pack a change of clothes in
As a frequent traveler yourself, what are some of your travel tips and favorites? Before your feet touch the ground, make sure you have two more trips in the books.
PHOTO: © REILLY FINANCIAL ADVISORS
Name: Frank Reilly Title: President Company, city: Reilly Financial Advisors; San Diego, Calif. Number of employees: 40 Recent project: Entering the institutional retirement plan space, expanding into our European office and offering free financial education to the masses First job: I was a dishwasher at a barbecue restaurant when I was 16. Little-known fact about you: I’ve taken 20-plus around-the-world flights, and I’m an ordained deacon in the Catholic Church.
Tell our readers about the history of RFA. While RFA was established with the SEC in 1999, our family has been in the financial services business since the 1970s. Friends of my parents accepted jobs teaching in Saudi Arabia and returned in the 1970s with money to invest for the first time in their lives. They knew my father helped people invest their hard-earned dollars, and they asked him for assistance. Once he helped them, they informed him there were many more Americans like them, living and working in Saudi Arabia, with the ability to invest their money. So in 1975 my parents purchased two round-trip plane tickets to the faraway land of Saudi Arabia. And the rest, as they say, is history.
“SEE, HEAR, TASTE, SMELL, TOUCH. E XPLORE YOUR SENSES. WIDEN YOUR WORLD.” DR. OZ
SEE
HUNDREDS OF DIFFERENT WORLDS WITH A WIDE RANGE OF MOVIES, DOCUMENTARIES AND MORE.
HEAR
NOTHING BUT WHAT YOU WANT WITH THE NOISE CANCELLING DENON HEADPHONES.
TASTE THE BEST FOOD ON AIR SERVED BY OUR FLYING CHEFS.
TURKISHAIRLINES.COM Features may vary depending on flights.
SMELL
TRADITION WITH FRESHLY BREWED TURKISH COFFEE.
TOUCH
COMFORT WITH SPECIALLY BUILT-IN MASSAGING SEATS.
technology
HOME AND AWAY Plug in these cool tools around the house or on the road.
BY JACK GUY
JABRA ELITE ACTIVE 65T If you like listening to music while you exercise, it pays to get headphones designed for the purpose. Instead of bulky over-ear models or uncomfortable buds, go for the Jabra Elite Active 65t — secure-fit, wireless earbuds that are sweat-, water- and dust-resistant, so you know they’re built to last. With five hours of battery life, you’ll have music for long training sessions, and a built-in accelerometer helps to measure performance with an accompanying app. $169. jabra.com
PHOTOS: © JABRA, © ROKU, © AMAZON, © GLYPH
ROKU STREAMING STICK PLUS So-called “cord cutters” continue to replace traditional cable TV packages with streaming services, and Roku leads the market. The company’s Streaming Stick Plus offers upgrades to 4K HDR video and Dolby Atmos audio support, so you know you’re getting a top piece of kit. Plus, as a result of Roku’s famous neutrality, you’ll get access to Netflix, Amazon and almost every other streaming service, with Apple iTunes the only notable exception. Take it with you on business trips and enjoy streaming services anywhere with a WiFi connection. $70. roku.com
AMAZON ECHO BUTTON Tech giant Amazon continues to develop devices for a new line known as Alexa Gadgets, and the first is the Echo Button. You can use the Buttons to play single- and multi-player games from the Alexa Skills store, bringing parlor games into the 21st century. It makes a great addition to your home for after-dinner fun, with Trivial Escape Tap, Party Foul and Button Monte games available from launch. Now there’s no need to dredge up the board games of your childhood to keep guests entertained. Pack of two, $19.99. amazon.com
GLYPH ATOM SSD For business travelers using sensitive documents on the road, it’s important to have a backup. The Glyph Atom SSD, a pocket-sized external drive, can slip easily into your jacket pocket, giving you secure access to your files wherever you are. Available in 275GB, 525GB and 1TB versions, the Glyph Atom is extremely durable thanks to the solid-state drive, aluminum construction and rubber casing. Mac users will also be pleased to hear it is one of the few drives on the market that works directly with Apple computers without the need of a dongle. 275GB, $150; 525GB, $250; 1TB, $440. glyphtech.com
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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
Discover Seoul
THE PLAZA Seoul, Autograph Collection’s new offer allows travelers to experience the culture-rich city. INDEPENDENT BUSINESS AND LEISURE travelers are eager to discover the local culture, shopping, accommodations and amenities of the destination they’re visiting, and leading Korean luxury boutique hotel THE PLAZA Seoul, Autograph Collection launches the Delight Seoul offer, aimed at providing travelers unique experiences in a destination rich in culture and history. THE OFFER INCLUDES a Discover Seoul Pass, accommodations at THE PLAZA Seoul, breakfast at the hotel’s The Seven Square, multilingual brochures and services from THE PLAZA Concierge Team. The special is available for two or more nights. THE PLAZA SEOUL, designed by Italian architect Guido Ciompi, offers captivating views across Seoul. All the hotel’s guestrooms feature Handy, a smart service offering complimentary local and international phone calls, Internet use and access to THE PLAZA SHOP, a platform offering professionally curated items to be ordered and delivered to each guestroom. “FOREIGN VISITORS HAVE recently been showing strong interest in Seoul and its culture,” according to a hotel official. “We therefore looked for a special and unique service that could offer diverse experiences of both the hotel and the Korean capital outside. We are committed to providing more experiences beyond expectation for tourists visiting Seoul with various services exclusive to THE PLAZA Seoul, Korea’s leading five-star hotel.”
THE INCLUDED DISCOVER Seoul Pass offers access to 21 top Seoul attractions, including N Seoul Tower, Gyeongnokgung Palace, Deoksugung Palace, the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art and SM Town, plus discounts on a variety of performance tickets and shopping. The pass is also a transportation card, and can be linked to a mobile app with remaining validity time and attraction information in multiple languages, allowing passholders to optimize their time in Seoul. For reservations and inquiries, call THE PLAZA Seoul at 82.2.771.2200 or visit the website at marriott.com/selak.
wine & spirits
Enjoy the many shades of rosé year ʼround.
ONCE, ROSÉ WAS A WINE to sip in summer and to put away when the calendar flipped to fall. No longer. As wine retailers and sommeliers discovered, there are sizable requests for rosé all year ʼround, and for good reason. A well-made, dry rosé may be the ultimate pairing wine, one that comfortably accompanies the widest range of dishes — almost any dish, in fact, other than heavy, dark meat courses. Another reason for its popularity: It is simply delicious. Despite a general belief rosé is a blend of red and white wines, true rosé is made solely from red grapes. The winemaker begins by fermenting the juice, skins and pips of red grapes. When the juice has reached the desired pink shade and before it continues to become a full red wine, the winemaker removes the skins, which give red wine its final color. Fermentation continues without the skins, and the color remains a shade of rosé. That shade can vary from salmon to coral to pink and other interesting variations. So can the taste, as I discovered in a range of especially flavorful rosés. Domaine Houchart Sainte Victoire Côtes de Provence 2016 ($18), a well-balanced blend of four grapes, presents a pretty pink-coral shade, has a light-medium body and offers an intensely fruity aroma and long finish. This crisp, rather spicy French rosé is a mouth-filling wine. Made totally of Pinot Noir in France’s Loire Valley, Fournier Père & Fils Sancerre Les Belles Vignes 2016 ($28) is a particularly flavorful, elegant, crisp and citrusy salmon pink-shaded rosé, a bright wine with a deepflavored nose. Presqu’ile Pinot Noir Rosé 2015 ($22), from California’s Santa Maria Valley and made 100 percent from Pinot Noir, proves a rich and fruity vibrant wine with a zesty acidity and depth. It brims with hints of ripe strawberry and raspberry. Decoy Rosé 2016 ($20), an aromatic, salmon-shaded wine from California made with a snappy, well-balanced blend of Pinot Noir and Syrah, imparts a relatively light body with a sprightly acidity and a rich display of floral and strawberry accents in the nose.
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BY EUNICE FRIED
rld’s the wo s i s e Stat é. nited of ros U r e e c h u T t prod larges d r i th
PHOTOS: © STEPHEN RUSSELL, © ALEX MILLIGAN
A WINE FOR ALL SEASONS
tours
CALL OF THE SEA Gianni’s Boats lures visitors to sail the waters of Capri. BY KRISTY ALPERT MYTHOLOGICAL LEGENDS describe the petite island of Capri as the Isle of Sirens, where tantalizing temptresses once lured sailors to the island’s shores, located just off the Sorrentine Peninsula, with nothing more than their beauty. Nowadays, the sailors do the luring, and one company in particular, Gianni’s Boats, offers truly bespoke boat tours that bring visitors around — and even inside — this charming Italian island for a beautiful immersion into Capri’s culture and history. Gianni’s love for sailing began when his family first arrived on the island of Capri decades ago, and he found himself on the sea as often as possible between lectures at the University of Naples. Although he quickly made a name for himself as a student of economics, his reputation on the water rapidly grew as he became legendary around Italy for his famous “gozzo parties.” He soon turned his passion into his career, and with the support of his family he opened a private tour company fittingly named Gianni’s Boat. He offered private tours to visitors looking to explore around the island, capping off each excursion with a toast of his mamma Rita’s homemade limoncello. People were immediately drawn to his charming personality, and word quickly spread about the charismatic captain’s uncanny ability to get access to lesser-known coves and grottos in the area. Pretty soon Gianni added an “s” to the company name, turning the multi-vessel Gianni’s Boats into the toprated tour company on Capri. Today Gianni operates a fleet of boats and a broad range of tours around Capri and the Amalfi Coast for groups of all adventure levels and sizes (frequently arranging for multiple boats to accommodate large group requests). His most popular excursion, a three-hour tour around Capri, brings guests around the entire island on an authentic gozzo boat. The tour, of course, stops in the celebrated Blue Grotto, where Gianni knows the ropes on how to avoid the line at the entrance, but it also takes guests to the lesser-known grottos around the island as well as a few hidden coves and secret swim spots timed perfectly between afternoons in the sun. Visitors on Gianni’s boats are treated like family, often sampling homemade snacks and treats from Mamma Rita’s kitchen or hearing tales about Gianni’s father, Antonio, and his brother Paolo’s sailing adventures … and a few of their misadventures, too. Guests are encouraged to throw their used
linens and towels into a large bin after their voyage to make it easier for Mamma Rita to collect the laundry, which she still does by hand. Special add-ons include fresh fruit, onboard massages, onboard picnics, serenades and Champagne with seasonal fruit or oysters. And, of course, as Gianni would say, “If you want something, just ask. Anything is possible!”
CAPTIVATING CAPRI:
Boats in the water along the island's shore PHOTO: © EG004713 | DREAMSTIME.COM
d prize , ighly ri h p a d an nC test ow o fficial swee mons gr no e u h T le the sato and ello. l c s n i o Sfu g the best lim n i k e ma of th home MARCH 2018
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spas
BEACHSIDE BLISS Indulge in the soothing serenity of The Spa at Sandpearl Resort. BY KIMBERLY KROL
THE SIGNATURE PERFECT MASSAGE — that name really does say it all. It epitomizes most spa experiences, but it also perfectly sums up my experience at The Spa at Sandpearl Resort, where I had the so-named 80-minute massage. I was in Clearwater Beach to celebrate friends’ nuptials and, on the morning of the wedding and after a few days of enjoying all the beach’s block of bars, restaurants and pools had to offer, was eager for a few hours of solitude to unwind a bit before the happy celebration. The AAA Four-Diamond Sandpearl Resort stands proud along the beachfront. I arrived late morning on a Sunday and, on my brief walk past the stunning pool area into the spa, could feel the buzz of guests looking to savor the last few moments of a weekend away. Aside from my final destination, the spa, the resort also offers coastal-inspired guestrooms and suites; the only Four-Diamond restaurant on Clearwater Beach, Caretta on the Gulf; two other culinary outlets; a number of enrichment programs; 25,000 square feet of high-tech function space; and an art collection. Additionally, the resort boasts an impressive record for its efforts in environmental
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conservation as the first Silver LEED-certified resort in Florida. A number of innovative programs improve energy efficiency, indoor air quality and water and natural resource conservation. Clean the World recycles guests’ leftover soap and shampoo to reduce waste and provide essentials to impoverished communities. It’s obvious Sandpearl Resort is designed to meet the needs of many types of travelers. That balmy Sunday morning, it certainly met my expectations. The Spa at Sandpearl offers a soothing atmosphere from the moment you enter. Reception, painted a warm beige, is small and personal rather than overwhelming and full of people. The tiled desk, in a similar shade to the walls, boasts a pop of color provided by an orchid on the desk. Inside, darkened rooms with muted beiges, browns and whites evoke the same sense of tranquility, and a large therapeutic whirlpool with cool showers beckons visitors before or after their treatment into either the soothing water or to a few minutes on the loungers surrounding it. Spa-goers can also enjoy private relaxation rooms or steam rooms. In addition to the seven treatment rooms, deluxe couple’s treatment suites include Swiss showers. A range of treatment options is accented by the
fitness center, yoga, tai chi classes, bridal make-up and hairstyling services and waxing. The spa’s philosophy, from its menu of choices to the serene accommodations, concentrates on reconnecting spa-goers with their inner soul and the outside world. Many treatments focus on a personalized approach, like my Signature Perfect Massage. My spa artisan, as they are referred to at The Spa at Sandpearl Resort, crafted the perfect massage for me based on my personal physical needs and wants. A myriad of modalities were used. Other Signature-branded treatments include the 80-minute Body Ritual, with a dry brushing, exfoliation and a full-body massage; the Facial Radiance, using anti-aging technologies for firmness, elasticity and hydration; an indulgent manicure and pedicure with skin-softening materials and a paraffin mask; and the Ritual, approximately six hours of pampering, including the Body Renewal, Facial and nail services. My preferences for any massage typically includes my shoulders, calves, feet and scalp. I’m sure I’ve said it many times before, but I cannot say no to having my scalp mas-
saged. I find it to be the ultimate indulgence. And I’m usually seeking total bliss and relaxation from my treatments, so unless something is particularly bothering me, I opt for light pressure. As a result of this checklist, my therapist used a combination of Swedish and Lomi Lomi massage techniques. Both aim at relaxation and employ long and continuous strokes, working gently yet deeply into the muscles. During a Swedish massage, the strokes focus in the direction of blood flow to help blood return to the heart, and the Lomi Lomi massage is known as a “loving hands” massage — both seemed quite fitting for a day I would be a guest at my friends’ wedding. As I prepared to depart, I grabbed a copy of the spa brochure. The introduction contained a nugget of wisdom I’ve kept with me since my visit and will also remember as I depart any future spa and head back into the often chaotic world. Sometimes you need a reminder to step back and breathe. After finding your radiant center during your treatment, you are encouraged to “embrace this. It is yours to keep with you wherever your travels take you.”
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INNER PEACE: (Left to right) Spa reception, whirlpool, single treatment room, and double treatment room PHOTOS: © SANDPEARL RESORT
The Spa at Sandpearl Resort 500 Mandalay Ave. Clearwater Beach, FL 33767 tel 727 441 2425 sandpearl.com
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chefs
TASTE OF HOME Chef Marco Antonio Torres brings authentic Spanish cuisine to Dubai. BY KIMBERLY KROL
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WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR CULINARY CONCEPTS? I’ve learned recipes from other chefs from all over the world, and I’ve then done them with my own touch. In Spain I worked alongside many renowned chefs, but it’s the experience from my own family business that drives me and is the best I have to offer. WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? Ferran Adrià and José Andrés WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE? It’s two people: Rafa Soler Atanet and José Vicente Jorge Luch. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? Dénia is in the province of Alicante in Spain and from where my family business and restaurant originate. I try to implement my
experiences from there into Salero Tapas & Bodega and into the menu to provide our guests with authentic Spanish cuisine in Dubai. WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? Traditional street food seems to be of more interest to more people, with the potential to reach 5-star hotels, despite the casual nature of it. Also, I feel there is a shift to eat healthier and to take care of yourself more. The trend seems that being health-conscious is important to guests when selecting their next meal. SALERO TAPAS & BODEGA Ground Floor, Kempinski Hotel, Mall of the Emirates Sheikh Zayed Road Dubai, United Arab Emirates tel 971 4 409 5888 salero-bodega.com
PHOTOS: © SALERO TAPAS & BODEGA
IT’S TRUE WHAT THEY SAY: Home is where the heart is. Chef Marco Antonio Blanquer Torres would likely agree, as he started out nurturing Rembrand Restaurant Original Tapas & Paella in Dénia, Alicante, Spain, his family business, and now he brings a taste of Spain to the desert of Dubai as head chef of Salero Tapas & Bodega in Kempinski Hotel, Mall of the Emirates. At Salero, Torres creates the menus and recipes for the restaurant, as well as for functions, parties and outside catering events, with the goal of inspiring customers and keeping them coming back for more. His career has taken him from Spain and Dubai to China. Additionally, he designed the menu and trained the chefs for a Spanish restaurant at New Delhi’s 5-star Anya Hotel and Resort. Today, home is where the food is: Salero delivers tapas and traditional food-sharing platters with a modern twist, featuring selections from Spain’s best bodegas. The kitchen fires up paellas and homemade sangria while flamenco performances and live nightly DJs keep things hot in the dining room. It’s like stepping away from the desert landscape of Dubai and right into the heart of Spain.
cruising
TRADITIONAL AND TRENDY Enjoy classic yet contemporary cruising with Holland America Line. BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER
HOLLAND AMERICA LINE IS, by many measures, a large cruise operator, with 14 ships calling on more than 400 ports and all seven continents. Yet its fleet consists solely of medium-sized vessels, each classically designed with sleek, navy-blue hulls evoking the golden age of ocean liners. Holland America resisted adding mega-ships to its line, favoring smaller, tradition-laden vessels while discretely incorporating modern perks and luxury appointments along the way. There are no climbing walls, water slides or amusement park rides on board, but Holland America passengers can expect exceptional afternoon teas and, in colder waters, hearty mugs of pea soup served on deck. The pea soup is a playful nod to Holland America’s Dutch origins, dating back to 1873. Although Holland America Line is now owned by Carnival and headquartered in Seattle, many crew members are graduates of the line’s own training school in Indonesia (the former Dutch East Indies). Although anchored to maritime traditions, Holland America sails with the times. This year America’s Test Kitchen goes fleet-wide, offering cooking shows and hands-on workshops run by its TV stars. Passengers can also now consult with experts before booking shore excursions in the shiny new topdeck coffeehouse/internet café known as Explorations Central, or EXC. And, after dark, Holland America’s Music Walk lights
up with chamber music conducted on the Lincoln Center Stage, chart-topping bands rocking the night away at Billboard Onboard, and groups in the groove performing at B.B. King’s Blues Club. Holland America Line’s newest and largest ship, the 2,650-passenger ms Koningsdam, takes an even bolder track into the future with facilities and programs designed to appeal to the rising tide of younger travelers and families. The ship’s theater is equipped with a 270-degree LED screen; the Lido Pool operates its own movie screen; and several innovative dining venues take the spotlight, including the up-to-date Culinary Arts Center’s farm-to-table show kitchen. Meanwhile, Holland America’s wide choice of spacious staterooms widens even further on the ms Koningsdam to include spa cabins, singles’ cabins and family staterooms (sleeping up to five, with extra closet space and two separate bathrooms). By combining a classic maritime atmosphere with contemporary cruising trends, Holland America can treat its passengers to the quintessential premium cruise experience. This is especially evident in Alaska, where Holland America remains the industry leader, devoting fully half its fleet to more than 130 voyages each summer and, as owner of the Westmark Hotels chain in Alaska, offering passengers a seamless way to combine land and sea journeys that encompass America’s last frontier.
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SAILING WITH THE TIMES: Movie at the Lido Pool (left), show at the World Stage (top right), and America's Test Kitchen (bottom right)
PHOTOS: © HOLLAND AMERICA LINE
nd Holla amed ica te Amer rah th Op up wi r rey fo Winf emed O-th nture ‘Adve fe’ ur Li of Yo es for cruis ska in Ala 8 1 0 2 stern he Ea and t bean. Carib
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feature
Around the World with GT Global Traveler celebrates the 2017 GT Tested Reader Survey award winners. BY NICOLE QUASTÉ | PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK AND NICOLAS BATES
GLOBAL TRAVELER READERS are frequent globetrotters, always on the go to destinations around the world. This is why we look to them to determine the industry’s best. The 14th annual Global Traveler GT Tested Reader Survey awards celebrates those companies consistently going above and beyond, as voted by our readers. On Dec. 12, 2017, travel industry elite gathered on a beautiful evening atop The Peninsula Beverly Hills in Los Angeles to celebrate the winners of the prestigious survey, as well as the Wines on the Wing airline wine competition, the Airline and Hotel of the Year and Quint Status awards. To show our appreciation for our winners who traveled from near and
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far to receive their awards, this year’s event boasted a memorable Around the World theme. Guests enjoyed Chinese, Mediterranean, Italian and American culinary experiences, while Liz Watts & Co. dazzled with dance performances including a 1930s Gatsby-inspired Charleston, Latin American salsa, a Middle Eastern extravaganza and an authentic Bollywood act, courtesy of Air India. For the seventh year in a row, The Peninsula Beverly Hills provided the perfect backdrop to celebrate the awards, with its stunning rooftop venue and impeccable service. A multiple winner for its United MileagePlus Club Card from Chase, United MileagePlus Explorer Card from Chase and Inside Access from Chase, Chase Bank Credit Cards sponsored the event.
WINNERS' CIRCLEÂ Best Overall Airline in the World Singapore Airlines Third Consecutive Year Best Airline Alliance oneworld Eighth Consecutive Year Best Aircraft Type Airbus A350 Best Airline Website AA.com Fastest-Growing Airline, Trans-Pacific American Airlines Best Airline for International First Class Qatar Airways Second Consecutive Year Best Airline for Business Class Turkish Airlines Best Airline for Domestic First Class American Airlines Second Consecutive Year Best Airline for Onboard Service Asiana Airlines 14th Consecutive Year Best Airline for Flight Attendants Asiana Airlines 14th Consecutive Year Best Airline Cuisine Alitalia Eighth Consecutive Year Best Flight Attendant Uniforms Etihad Airways Best Airline for Security EL AL Israel Airlines 11th Consecutive Year Best Business-Class Seat Design China Airlines Third Consecutive Year
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WINNERS’ CIRCLE Best First-Class Seat Design Qatar Airways Second Consecutive Year Best Airline for New Service Launch Delta Air Lines Best Overall Frequent-Flyer Program United MileagePlus 14th Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Flyer Elite-Level Program Hawaiian Airlines, HawaiianMiles – Pualani Platinum Membership Third Consecutive Year
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Best Frequent-Flyer Bonus Program United MileagePlus Fifth Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Flyer Award Redemption LifeMiles Fifth Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Flyer Customer Service, Americas Alaska Airlines Mileage Plan
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Best Airline in North America Alaska Airlines Best Airline to South America LATAM Airlines Group Fourth Consecutive Year Best Airline in Mexico Aeromexico Eighth Consecutive Year Best Airline to Australia and New Zealand Air New Zealand Best Airline in the South Pacific Fiji Airways Best Airline in Europe TAP Air Portugal Seventh Consecutive Year Best Airline in Eastern Europe LOT Polish Airlines Best Airline in Africa South African Airways 14th Consecutive Year
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1. Abdulaziz Abdulla Al-Mass, vice president, commercial, marketing and communications, Hamad International Airport 2. Adrian Kubicki, international public relations senior specialist, LOT Polish Airlines 3. Andrew Yiu, managing director, product design, Air Canada 4. Angus Wheeler, director of sales, Aeroflot 5. Benedetto Mencaroni Poiani, vice president, the Americas, Alitalia 6. Carlos Paneiro, vice president, sales, North &
Central America, TAP Air Portugal; Trey Urbahn, chief commercial officer, TAP Air Portugal; Fern Ottavio, director, passenger sales and marketing, North America, TAP Air Portugal 7. Cynthia Garrido, director of marketing for Mexico, Latin America & Caribbean, InterContinental Hotels Group 8. David Lim, vice president, management support division, Lotte Hotels 9. E-Bae Kim, executive vice president, Asiana Airlines
be rewarded. be one. As a ONEworld® traveler, wherever you go, your rewards follow. ONEworld extends many of the exclusive benefits of your preferred ONEworld airline’s frequent flyer program. Emerald, Sapphire and Ruby oneworld tiers each offer specific benefits which align automatically with your preferred ONEworld member airline benefits. Make a smart choice in traveling with any of our 13 airlines and take advantage of benefits you already have. Learn more at oneworld.com
an alliance of the world's leading airlines working as one. American Airlines British Airways Cathay Pacific Finnair Iberia Japan Airlines LATAM Malaysia Airlines Qantas Qatar Airways Royal Jordanian S7 Airlines SriLankan Airlines
ONEworld benefits are available only to passengers on scheduled flights that are both marketed and operated by a ONEworld member airline (marketed means that there must be a ONEworld member airline’s flight number on your ticket). For information on ONEworld, visit www.oneworld.com. American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, LATAM Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Jordanian, S7 Airlines, SriLankan Airlines and ONEworld are trademarks of their respective companies. LATAM Airlines (Paraguay) is currently not a part of ONEworld.
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WINNERS’ CIRCLE Best Airline in the Middle East (excluding China) Qatar Airways Second Consecutive Year Best Airline in North Asia China Airlines Fifth Consecutive Year
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Best Airline in China Hainan Airlines Sixth Consecutive Year
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Best Airline in Central/South Asia & India Air India Fourth Consecutive Year Best Airline to Japan Japan Airlines Best Trans-Atlantic Airline TAP Air Portugal Best Trans-Pacific Airline Japan Airlines
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Best Overall Airport in the World Singapore Changi Airport Second Consecutive Year
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Best Airport in North America Chicago O’Hare International Airport 14th Consecutive Year Best Airport in Asia Incheon Airport Best Airport in Africa O.R. Tambo International Airport Best Airport in Europe Vienna International Airport Best Airport in the Middle East Hamad International Airport Best Airport in South America Jorge Chávez International Airport Best Airport Staff/Gate Agents Turkish Airlines Best Airport Dining Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport Fourth Consecutive Year
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1. Eoghan Slye, senior director, brand marketing, Hertz 2. Ersen Engin, general manager, Turkish Airlines 3. Günter Saurwein, vice president, Americas, Qatar Airways 4. Jason Chen, hotel director of entertainment, Mandarin Oriental, Taipei 5. Jorge Goytortúa, vice president, global sales, Aeromexico; Raul Ivan Villanueva, regional sales
director, Aeromexico 6. Julie Vargo, vice president, consumer marketing, Boingo 7. Kelvin Tan, general manager, airport operations, Singapore Changi Airport 8. Kristen Bowdoin, general manager of partnerships, Chase Bank Credit Cards 9. Kyle Mabry, managing director, American Airlines
ALL NEW. ALL PREMIUM. ALL FOR YOU. Experience the upgraded space and amenities of our new Flagship® Lounge. aa.com/flagshiplounge
American Airlines, Flagship and the Flight Symbol logo are marks of American Airlines, Inc. oneworld is a mark of the oneworld Alliance, LLC. © 2018 American Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved.
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Best Airport Shopping Amsterdam Airport Schiphol Best Duty-Free Shopping in the World Dubai Duty Free 11th Consecutive Year Best Duty-Free Shopping in Asia Singapore Changi Airport Best Duty-Free Shopping in Africa O.R. Tambo International Airport Best Duty-Free Shopping in Europe Amsterdam Airport Schiphol
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Best Duty-Free Shopping in the Middle East Dubai Duty Free Best International Hotel Chain The Ritz-Carlton Third Consecutive Year Best Domestic Hotel Chain The Ritz-Carlton Third Consecutive Year 7
Best Lifestyle Hotel Andaz Eighth Consecutive Year
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Best MICE Hotel Lotte Hotel Seoul Third Consecutive Year Best Hotel Club Floor The Ritz-Carlton Second Consecutive Year Best Hotel Website ritzcarlton.com Third Consecutive Year Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World InterContinental Hotels Group IHG Rewards Club 13th Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Stay Elite-Level Program World of Hyatt Platinum Best Frequent-Stay Bonus Program Marriott Rewards
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1. Laura Stringel, director of sales, Posadas 2. Luc Bondar, vice president of loyalty, United Airlines 3. Maria Krasilnikova, marketing and loyalty manager, oneworld 4. Matt Danaher, director of marketing/advertising, Chicago O’Hare International Airport 5. Nick Teare, vice president, global brand marketing, The Ritz-Carlton 6. Rhonda Crawford, vice president, global distribution and strategy, Delta Air Lines; Simon
Bramley, managing director of digital and direct channels, Delta Air Lines 7. Offer Nissenbaum, managing director, The Peninsula Beverly Hills 8. Shashant Jasani, vice president, product management and user experience, mobileforming LLC; Ben Shepherd, mobile/software engineering senior leader, Hilton Hotels & Resorts 9. Sangita Woerner, vice president, marketing, Alaska Airlines
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WINNERS’ CIRCLE Best Frequent-Stay Award Redemption World of Hyatt Best Frequent-Stay Customer Service, Americas World of Hyatt Second Consecutive Year Best Hotel in the United States The Peninsula Beverly Hills Seventh Consecutive Year
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Best Hotel in Asia Mandarin Oriental, Taipei Best European Hotel Chain St. Regis Second Consecutive Year Best Hotel Chain in Asia Grand Hyatt
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Best Hotel in Europe Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon Best Hotel in the Middle East Burj Al Arab Jumeirah Best New Luxury Hotel in Asia Signiel Seoul Best Hotel Chain in Latin America InterContinental Hotels & Resorts Best Hotel Chain in Mexico Fiesta Americana Seventh Consecutive Year Best Hotel Chain in the Middle East The Ritz-Carlton Best Overseas Delivery Program Volvo Second Consecutive Year Best Rental Car Company Hertz Fourth Consecutive Year
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7 Myer, vice president, global sales, the Ameri1. Steven cas, Japan Airlines 2. Stroebel Bekker, general manager, the Americas, Fiji Airways 3. Susan Siriwatanarong, director, Citi / Aadvantage, Citibank 4. Meghan Jordan, director, AAdvantage co-brand partnerships, Citibank, American Airlines 5. Todd Neuman, executive vice president, the Americas, South African Airways 6. Vibhat Nair, general manager, Chase Bank Credit Cards
9 president, sales & marketing, the 7. Keiji Omae, vice Americas, All Nippon Airways 8. Jennifer Plasket, senior vice president, deposit sales and marketing, Bank of America 9. Simon Lee, vice president, the Americas, China Airlines 10. Amanda Nather, associate manager, IHG Rewards Club; Kathryn Osbon, associate marketing manager, InterContinental Hotels Group 11. Vandana Sharma, regional manager of the Americas, Air India
PHOTOS: © SOMNIPHOBIAC | DREAMSTIME, © OUT ADVENTURES, © ROBERTO NENCINI | DREAMSTIME,© RICHIE CHAN | DREAMSTIME
Best Hotel in South Korea Lotte Hotel Seoul Sixth Consecutive Year
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WINNERS’ CIRCLE Best Tourism Destination Mexico Best MICE City Seoul 7 Third Consecutive Year 5
Best WiFi Service Boingo Wireless Seventh Consecutive Year
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Best Wireless Service in the World Verizon Second Consecutive Year Best Noise-Canceling Headset Sony Fourth Consecutive Year Best Luggage Brand Briggs & Riley 11 Eighth Consecutive Year
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Best Photographic Equipment Nikon D7500 Best Ride Share Uber Best Hotel App Hilton Hotels & Resorts Best Airline App Delta Air Lines Best Overall Credit Card United MileagePlus Club Card from Chase Sixth Consecutive Year Best Credit Card Rewards Programs United MileagePlus Club Card from Chase Sixth Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card Marriott Rewards Premier Credit Card from Chase Sixth Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card Promotions Hilton Honors Card from American Express Second Consecutive Year
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1. Christophe Allard, director of North America, Brussels Airlines 2. Liz Fraser, regional general manager, Air New Zealand 3. Tim Lee, vice president, Western USA, Singapore Airlines 4. Rolando Damas, managing director, North America and Asia, Avianca Airlines 5. Dunja LaRosa, director of product marketing, consumer sales and marketing, Sony 6. Yoram Elgrabli, managing director, North and Central America, EL AL Israel Airlines 7. Pablo Chiozza, senior vice president, USA, Canada and Caribbean, LATAM Airlines Group
8. Clay McConnell, vice president, communications, Airbus 9. Charles E. “Chilly” Ewing, Sr., airport concessions director, Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport 10. Kristen Shields McGinnis, director, co-brand product marketing, Delta Air Lines; Lisa Kalhans, vice president, co-brand product management, American Express 11. Greg Klem, vice president of strategic partnerships, Hilton Hotels & Resorts; Heather Paula, vice president, co-brand partnerships, American Express
Beyond Asia. To the Future. F lying with You. ASIANA AIRLINES
Reservations • 1-800-2ASIANA • us.flyasiana.com
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WINNERS’ CIRCLE Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card Benefits Marriott Rewards Premier Credit Card from Chase Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card Redemptions The Ritz-Carlton Rewards Credit Card from J.P. Morgan Third Consecutive Year
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Best Credit Card Special Events Inside Access from Chase Second Consecutive Year Best Small Business Credit Card The Ritz-Carlton Rewards Credit Card from J.P. Morgan Second Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card Alaska Airlines Visa Signature Card from Bank of America Sixth Consecutive Year
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Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card Promotions Citi / AAdvantage Platinum Select World Elite Mastercard Fourth Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card Benefits Delta SkyMiles Credit Card from American Express Third Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card Redemptions United MileagePlus Explorer Card from Chase Fifth Consecutive Year Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card Celebrity Cruises Visa Signature Third Consecutive Year
AIRLINE AND HOTEL OF THE YEAR Airline of the Year American Airlines Hotel of the Year Lotte Hotels & Resorts
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1. Joel Chusid, executive director, USA, Hainan Airlines 2. Wendy von Kriegenbergh, senior marketing manager, Amsterdam Airport Schiphol; Tanja Dik, director consumer products and services, Amsterdam Airport Schiphol; Anne-Marie Zuidweg, senior manager, commercial services and media, Amsterdam Airport Schiphol 3. Sinead El Sibai, vice president of marketing, Dubai Duty Free 4. Ross Saito, product manager, menu development, Hawaiian Airlines; Renee Awana, managing director, product development, Hawaiian Airlines; Bryan Kapeckas, managing director, loyalty and
traveler products, Hawaiian Airlines 5. Kim Tae-il, assistant public relations manager, Incheon Airport; Lee Kyung-lim, assistant manager, Incheon Airport 6. Gareth de Klerk, executive director of marketing, Verizon Wireless 7. North Holbrook, director of commercial sales, Volvo Overseas Delivery 8. Ahn Joon Ho, general-director of tourism & sports, Seoul Metropolitan Government 9. Rene Mizwicki, senior director of marketing, Hyatt 10. Heather Geisler, vice president of global brands, Hyatt
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QUINT STATUS Best Frequent-Flyer Bonus Program United MileagePlus Fifth Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card Redemptions United MileagePlus Explorer Card from Chase Fifth Consecutive Year Best Airline in North Asia China Airlines Fifth Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Flyer Award Redemption LifeMiles Fifth Consecutive Year
Best White Wine International Business Class Brussels Airlines Best White Wine International First Class EL AL Israel Airlines
Best North American Wines on the Wing American Airlines
Best International FirstClass Wines on the Wing Asiana Airlines
Best North American Sparkling Wine Hawaiian Airlines Best North American White Wine American Airlines Best North American Red Wine American Airlines
Best White Wine International Business Class Air Canada
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Best Sparkling Wine International Business Class TAP Air Portugal
Best International Business-Class Wines on the Wing Air Canada
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Best Red Wine International First Class Asiana Airlines
Best Alliance Wines on the Wing oneworld
Best Champagne International First Class United Airlines
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Best Red Wine International Business Class All Nippon Airways
WINES ON THE WING AWARDS
Best Champagne International Business Class Aeroflot
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8 1. Adrian Kubicki, international PR senior specialist, LOT Polish Airlines; Sabine Engelbrecht, sales manager, LOT Polish Airlines; Dominic Bernardo, 12 country director, LOT Polish Airlines 2. Steven Myer donning his new Eagles scarf 3. Kyle Mabry, regional vice president, American Airlines, and Mike Narowski, regional sales director, American Airlines, collecting the airline’s seven awards, including Airline of the Year 4. Rooftop event 5. Chase Bank Credit Cards sponsored the event 6. Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; and William Papa, direc-
tor of sales, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; chat with Todd Neuman, executive vice president, South African Airways; Paula Newton, director, sales development, Western region, South African Airways; and guest 7.Kay Allen, senior marketing specialist, Japan National Tourism Organization; Andrew Risch, advertising coordinator, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Kaitlind Eydelloth, account executive, Western region, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Stroebel Bekker, regional general manager, Fiji Airways 8. The FXExpress Publications, Inc. team
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The World Awaits Make memories at the best family travel destinations around the globe. BY STEVE JERMANOK NATURAL WONDERS:
Midway Geyser Basin, Grand Prismatic Spring (top); tourists watching Old Faithful erupting; and bison and elk at Yellowstone National Park PHOTOS: © MARGARET619 | DREAMSTIME .COM, © F11PHOTO | DREAMSTIME.COM, © IZANBAR | DREAMSTIME.COM, © HOWIEWU | DREAMSTIME.COM
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ONCE YOU HAVE YOUR FIRST CHILD, the inclination to hunker down and nest takes over your psyche. Soon you start to go stir-crazy and quickly realize you don’t have to give up your passion to travel simply because you have little ones. On the contrary, it’s time to introduce your kids to the real you. Even better, you get to see the magic, awe and wonder of the world
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through your children’s eyes while they receive a firsthand education on cultural differences and diversity. As your children age and savor travel just as much as you do, they’ll quickly be the ones leading you around the globe. According to a recent survey conducted by AAA, more than one-third of Americans (35 percent) plan to take a family vacation this year. Of those surveyed, 51 percent plan to visit a national park in America. “2017 was clearly a year for the national parks,” says Dan Austin, president, Austin Adventures. “This is the 20th year in a row that Yellowstone has led our domestic sales.” On the Wyoming-Montana border, Yellowstone is America’s first and arguably finest national park. One day you’re watching Old Faithful, the park’s iconic geyser, erupt almost 200 feet in the air. The next day you’re going eyeball to eyeball with buffalo, elk and moose. Day three, you can peer into the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone’s majestic Upper and Lower Yellowstone Falls, one of the storied vistas in the park.
This coming summer, Austin notes, the Canadian Rockies are “already seeing double-digit growth in the number of bookings.” In Banff and Lake Louise, families bike past turquoise blue glacial lakes nestled in the high peaks, walk up a gorge where waterfalls tumble down and view a fair share of bears. Another highlight includes taking a glacial walk on the massive Athabasca Glacier on Icefields Parkway, the stunning roadway that leads from Lake Louise to Jasper. There’s no better introduction to the history, culture and distinct charm of Europe than a trip to London. After all, who can resist the chance to view the morning Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace; take a ride on the London Eye; cruise down the Thames under the famous Tower Bridge; visit the Tower of London’s jewels; and check out the theater scene in the West End, which easily rivals Broadway as one of the finest in the world? Also, don’t miss the opportunity to stroll one of London’s glorious parks. The rolling hillside of Hampstead Heath features old-growth forest, shaded trails, long stretches of lawn and streams where children can feed ducks and coots. A quick 2.25-hour ride on the Eurostar train through the Chunnel brings you to Paris. Get the kids excited with a climb up the Eiffel Tower. Then set aside time to view the monumental works of art at the Louvre, Musée d’Orsay and Pompidou museums; visit Notre-Dame Cathedral; and boat the Seine. An overlooked museum devoted to French innovation, Musée des Arts et Métiers, is a favorite for kids, where they can learn all about French ingenuity. Another highlight: the daytrip from Paris to Giverny, the home of Claude Monet. On a tour run by Fat Tire Bike Tours, start with a short train ride to the village of Vernon. Upon arrival, you jump on bikes and soon stop at an outdoor market to stock up on creamy Reblochon cheese, tasty Rosette de Lyon sausage and hot-out-of-theoven baguettes from the nearby boulangerie. After a picnic lunch in a park overlooking swans swimming in the Seine, you head out on a bike trail that connects Vernon with Giverny, where you can walk over the iconic Japanese bridge seen in many of Monet’s works. For the active travel company Backroads, Switzerland rated as a top family destination the past two years. “A big draw is the gorgeous scenery, fantastic hiking and proximity to France for easy pre/post exploration,” says Liz Einbender, public relations director, Backroads. Switzerland, especially the Swiss Alps, is blessed with an intricate network of trains and gondolas that can connect with endless opportunities for high adventure right outside your hotel doorstep. Swiss chocolate and fondue might be the main draw to the country, but one look at lofty Eiger Peak (standing at 13,020 feet) as you take a gondola high above the mountain village of Grindelwald, and you can’t help being mesmerized by the mix of snowcapped peaks, green valleys, glacier-fed waterfalls and large lakes. Add Bern to your itinerary and you’ll have the unique opportunity to tube down the Aare River and take an electric bike ride in scenic Emmental Valley. Backroads understands families love traveling with families with ICONIC SCENES:
Family in front of Windsor Castle (top); Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace (middle); and a cable car in Grindelwald, Bern (bottom) PHOTOS: © EZZIAN ~~~~~~~ | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MICHAL BEDNAREK | DREAMSTIME.COM, © DENIS PEPIN | DREAMSTIME.COM
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HOP, ZIP AND JUMP:
Zip line in Costa Rica rainforest (right), and young Maasai Askari doing a traditional jumping dance with a tourist (below) PHOTOS: © WOLLERTZ | DREAMSTIME.COM, © CPAULFELL | DREAMSTIME.COM
kids the same age as their kids, so it now runs three different family trip segments based on age: older teens and 20s (age 17-plus), teens and kids (ages 9–17) and younger kids (8 and younger). Its most popular family vacations these days are adventures where you can sample more than one sport. Costa Rica offers the ideal landscape to host a multi-sport journey with its mix of rainforest, active volcano, cloud forest and coastline. Over the course of the week you can zip line across the cloud forest canopy, spotting toucans along the way; take a naturalist-led hike past the monkeys and sloths of the rainforest in Manuel Antonio National Park; kayak to a deserted beach; and soak your weary limbs in a hot tub while staring at the perfectly cone-shaped Arenal Volcano. Toucans and monkeys may whet your appetite for a genuine
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safari experience in Kenya. Few can design that journey of a lifetime better than the classic safari outfitter Abercrombie & Kent. “Bookings for Family Kenya and Tanzania are significantly ahead of the same time last year,” says A&K’s Pamela Lassers, noting families appreciate the opportunity to meet and travel with other children on small-group journeys limited to just 24 guests. Another popular trend for A&K is the multigenerational trip. “Two-thirds of our family bookings are for parties of four or more, and 10 percent are with eight or more, to include grandparents or extended family,” says Lassers. In Kenya, watch the hippos swim in the Mara River at your resort after your morning game drive to spot elephants, giraffes, lions, rhinos and leopards. A&K likes children to engage in local culture, which might include a walk with the neighboring Maasai to see their mud huts and taking part in a jumping contest. In Tanzania, expect a visit to magical Ngorongoro Crater and glamping in the bush of the expansive Serengeti. After days of waking up early to go game viewing, treat yourself to a relaxing beach stay in Zanzibar at the end of your trip. Lastly, Amanda Norcross, features editor, FamilyVacationCritic .com, recommends a family cruise. “We’re especially excited about Royal Caribbean’s Symphony of the Seas, which will feature quite possibly the coolest family suite ever. The suite will feature something for all ages, from a netted climbing structure for young kids to a movie and video game area for teens, and — get this — a slide will connect the suite’s two floors!” Whether you’re traveling domestically or internationally this year, getting close-up views of the American bison or the African buffalo, the most important thing to remember is you’re making memories your family will cherish for years to come. That’s priceless.
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mice | ISTANBUL
At the Crossroads İstanbul remains an exceptional destination to bring people together. BY RICHARD NEWTON GATHERING SPOTS:
(Left to right) Republic Monument at Taksim Square, Grand Hyatt Istanbul meeting room, and Basilica Cistern PHOTOS: © IRINA LEPNEVA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © GRAND HYATT ISTANBUL, © EVGENIY FESENKO | DREAMSTIME.COM
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IN THE YEAR 381, WHEN A GLOBAL COUNCIL of Christian bishops convened, there was only one logical place for them to meet. From all corners of the Christian world they converged on Constantinople (now İstanbul) in what could be regarded as one of the world’s first MICE events. For millennia, this city represented the geographical center of the human world. Situated on both banks of the Bosporus, the channel that links the Black Sea to the Mediterranean, the city straddles the continental divide between Europe and Asia and stands as a crucial staging post between Northern and Eastern Europe and all points south. Through the rise and fall of empires, through the shift from Christianity to Islam and through a change of name, İstanbul’s strategic importance remained constant. With the advent of the modern MICE sector, the city instantly established itself as a major destination. İstanbul’s claim to be the crossroads of the world was reaffirmed
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this year with the opening of the new Istanbul International Airport, 21 miles northwest of downtown. With an annual capacity of 150 million passengers, it is intended to become one of the world’s busiest aviation hubs. İstanbul boasts a wealth of state-of-the-art MICE venues. By far the largest is CNR EXPO, close to the old Ataturk International Airport (slated for closure once the new airport is up and running). This large facility, with eight exhibition halls totaling more than 1.6 million square feet, will continue to benefit from the Metro and other transport links established to serve the soon-to-be-defunct airport. Three additional halls in the complex are operated by World Trade Center Istanbul. Downtown, the seven-story Istanbul Congress Center, or ICC, situated a short walk from the central Taksim Square, offers 115 fully equipped meeting rooms; nine meeting halls with capacity of up to 1,300; and an auditorium that can seat 3,705 people. Next door to the ICC, the Lütfi Kirdar Convention and Exhibition Center, known as ICEC, includes 45 versatile meeting rooms; a 2,000-seat auditorium; and magnificent views from its hillside location down to the Bosporus. The Haliç Congress Center is picturesquely located beside the Golden Horn, the estuary that divides the European side of İstanbul in two. Although slightly off the beaten path with regard to tram and metro links, visitors can easily reach the center by bus or taxi and, uniquely among the major venues, also by ferry (the adjacent Sütlüce
ferry stop is part of the city’s busy ferry network). The center comprises several buildings, each boasting auditoriums and meeting rooms. The Erguvan Restaurant, overlooking the water, can accommodate up to 200 guests. As you would expect of a major international city, İstanbul is well-served by high-end international hotel chains, many of which cater to the MICE sector. The Grand Hyatt Istanbul, located downtown close to Taksim Square, offers 21,000 square feet of flexible meeting and event space. The nearby Ritz-Carlton features similarly flexible event space (with panoramic views of the Bosporus) and provides a “Technology Butler” to ensure everything runs smoothly. The city boasts two Four Seasons hotels. The one in the historic Sultanahmet district proves an ideal incentive base for visits to such iconic attractions as the Topkapi Palace and the Hagia Sophia, while the other, occupying a larger site on the Bosporus shore, has a range of halls and rooms for meetings and events. From the hotel’s waterside terrace you can watch the comings and goings on the busy waterway — a reminder İstanbul has always been, and continues to be, one of the world’s great meeting places.
UNIQUE VENUES
On the surface and beneath, the Romans, the Byzantines and the Ottomans all left their mark on İstanbul. The great Byzantine cathedral, Hagia Sophia, proves the ultimate example. Originally built in the sixth century, it was turned into a mosque in the 15th century and converted into a museum in 1935. In the shadow of this great building sits one of the city’s more unusual venues, a 16thcentury bathhouse, the Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamami. Small groups can enjoy bath and massage packages followed by a meal in the atmospheric courtyard restaurant (please note the bathhouse itself is segregated into male and female sections). ayasofyahamami.com
The Sait Halim Pasha Mansion, an ornate Ottoman palace on the European waterside of the Bosporus, offers a prestigious venue for weddings and corporate events. With 13 function areas, the mansion can accommodate small groups or cocktail parties of up to 1,600 guests. saithalimpasa.com Among İstanbul’s great subterranean attractions are its Byzantine cisterns — underground reservoirs — dating back to the fourth century. The Basilica Cistern is the largest and most famous, a must-see visitor attraction. The second-biggest, now known as the 1001 Direk Cistern, has been drained of water, subtly modernized and transformed into a characterful venue capable of hosting up to 3,000 people.
as . bul w Istan of pital the ca ine yzant the B n ttoma and O t es, bu empir 1923 since of pital the ca ey Turk n r e d mo een has b a. Ankar . bul Istan ns the remai ry’s count . t city larges
yerebatansarnici.com icvb.org.tr/venue/1001-direk-cistern
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2018 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.
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destination one | TOKYO
Let the Games Begin! Tokyo rises to the challenge of a repeat Olympic performance. BY ELYSE GLICKMAN ICONIC INTERSECTION: Shibuya Crossing (top), and artist's renderings of Shibuya Stream, a new tower block in the Shibuya Station South area PHOTOS : © JNTO
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WITH THE 2020 SUMMER OLYMPICS, Tokyo joins an elite group of cities that played host to the Games multiple times. The IOCC’s selection of Japan’s capital further underscores it as one of the world’s most dynamic cities. Tokyo made a big splash during the 1964 Summer Olympics, sealing its global reputation as the city of the future. The 2020 MARCH 2018
planners and policymakers, therefore, knew they had an enormous challenge in finding fresh ways to reintroduce Tokyo to the world. Numerous tech bells and whistles brought forth by Fortune 500 sponsors will enhance how spectators experience the games. Panasonic’s contributions, for example, include a translation device handling up to 10 spoken
COMING AND GOING
U.S. citizens must have a valid passport and an onward/return ticket for tourist or business visafree stays of up to 90 days. Passports must be valid for the duration of your stay in Japan.
OFFICIAL LANGUAGE Japanese
MAKING CONNECTIONS: Tokyo Central Railway Station in Chiyoda, near the Imperial Palace grounds and Ginza commercial district PHOTO : © RICHIE CHAN | DREAMSTIME.COM
LODGING CONRAD TOKYO Here’s the perfect fusion of business and pleasure with views of Tokyo Bay, Hamarikyu Garden and commanding skyscrapers. Expect exceptional service, museumcaliber art and sublime cuisine (especially Kazuhana) and cocktails. 1 Chome-9-1 Higashi-shinbashi, Minato $$$$–$$$$$
languages and a smartphone app enabling foreign visitors to instantly scan and translate signs. There’s also a big buzz surrounding driverless Lexus and Toyota taxis. On the other hand, Tokyo follows South Korea’s performance on the world stage with the 2018 PyeongChang Winter Olympics and precedes Beijing’s next outing as a repeat Olympic city in 2022. Perhaps for these reasons, the city and various developers are emphasizing historic preservation even as projects to improve infrastructure and accessibility apply a city-of-the-future mindset. According to the Japan National Tourism Organization, this Olympian undertaking exemplifies Prime Minister Shinzo Abe’s goal to increase the annual number of incoming foreign tourists to 40 million by 2020 and 60 million by 2030. The reworking of the concrete-based National Stadium, used for the 1964 Olympics’ opening and closing ceremonies, embodies this approach. The old structure enters the 21st century with the implementation of a nature-focused design by noted Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, employing Japanese lumber. It serves as an anchor point of a Heritage Zone surrounding the Imperial Palace that includes upgraded and updated venues from the earlier games. The 10 new facilities, meanwhile, go up in the Tokyo Bay Zone on the reclaimed land of Odaiba, including the swimming competitions venue. The New Shinagawa Station, launching 2020, is one of the crown jewels of the city’s infrastructure improvements. According to The Japan Times, the first major addition to the Yamanote train loop since 1971 is intended to not only
improve crowd flow but also make exploring Tokyo and Japan more user-friendly years beyond the games. It dovetails into transforming the Shinagawa neighborhood and will provide a quick connection to Metro Sengakuji Station and access to Narita and Haneda airports by 2027. Some of the most visible developments will reside in Shibuya, which adjoins Yoyogi Park, site of the new Olympic Stadium. The mega makeover includes more than 786,000 square feet of new office space around Shibuya Station and nearly 2.8 million square feet of space throughout the district. One of the most important revitalizations is Shibuya Station, adding new elevators and escalators to link the different levels and passageways, facilitating smoother transfers between commuter lines. Other multipurpose structures in Shibuya will alter one of the world’s most photographed neighborhoods. The 750-foot-tall Shibuya Scramble Square, opening 2019, encompasses expansive rooftop space and one of Japan’s largest observation decks. Panoramic views include the iconic intersection as well as the Meiji Shrine, the Shinjuku skyline to the north, the Roppongi district to the east and (on clear days) Mount Fuji to the west. Shibuya Stream, arriving in 2018, fuses nature with practicality with 20 openconcept office floors, a fourth-floor atrium with compact workstations, and a fifth-floor lobby with an arched ceiling reminiscent of the wave-shaped patterns of the former roof of the Tōyoko Line’s terminal. Its 6,500-foot, tree-lined walkway will abut the banks of the newly exposed, freeflowing Shibuya River.
HOSHINOYA HOTEL TOKYO This luxury ryokan is the ultimate urban retreat. Change into a yukata and sip artisanal tea, enjoy a Japanese classical music performance or poetry reading, or unwind in the rooftop onsen mineral baths. 1 Chome-9-1 Otemachi, Chiyoda $$$$$ SHANGRI-LA HOTEL, TOKYO The Tokyo Central Stationadjacent property combines indulgence with convenience, with its exceptionally appointed executive lounge and suites providing everything you need during a business or leisure stay, down to the softest pajamas. Marunouchi Trust Tower Main, 1-8-3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda $$$$–$$$$$
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INFO TO GO
Narita International Airport and Haneda Airport both serve Tokyo. Haneda primarily serviced internal flights within Japan until its international terminal opened in 2010. Today, travelers refer to Haneda as the city’s downtown airport, especially as a monorail (about $4.50), commuter trains (about $2.65–3.90) and airport limos (about $5.30) connect it to the Central Business District. The most popular way to get to and from Narita is the Narita Express, or NEX (about $28), which whisks passengers to Tokyo Central Station in about an hour. Numerous improvements to Narita in advance of the 2020 Olympics include restrooms retrofitted with upscale interior design and functionality, such as warm water bidets and temporary storage for suitcases.
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Developments in Ginza involve the use of repurposed buildings and designs paying homage to past architectural styles defining Tokyo retail. Early players include Ginza Place (opened fall 2016), inspired by the 1932 landmark Neo Renaissance-style Wako department store building directly across the street; and Ginza Six (G6), debuted in spring 2017 at the location of the former Matsuzakaya department store. G6’s third basement floor serves as the new home of the Kanze School of Noh, a musical theater group tracing its history back nearly 700 years. The project transplanted its historic stage, plank by plank, to pair with state-of-the-art sound and lighting, improved handicapped access and a multilingual interpretation system. Between 2018 and 2020, the former Sony building will transform into Ginza Sony Park, where visitors will enjoy multisensory kando experiences delivered by technological gadgets and machines devised by Sony and others. Another global Japanese brand expanding beyond retail is MUJI, MARCH 2018
Japan’s minimalist lifestyle and apparel store. When the MUJI Hotel in Ginza opens in spring 2019, visitors can draw inspiration from the brand’s unique design element in the hotel on the top four floors, as well as its expansive home retail concept covering the bottom six and three basement floors. Quirky boutique hotels opening or soon to open include the Wired Hotel Asakusa in the historic Taito ward; the 15-guestroom Trunk Hotel in Shibuya, distinguished by expanses of recycled woods, tiered balconies, aromatic herb gardens and organic made-in-Japan bathroom toiletries; and the Tokyo Skytree, designed by Tokyo Olympic stadium architect Kengo Kuma, integrating industrial materials with natural wood. Though it may be hard to predict how the 2020 Olympic Games will play out, it looks certain improvements and innovations coming to Tokyo will remain winners with business and leisure travelers in the years to come.
CHECKING IN WITH ANNE KYLE Founder, Arigato Tours
Why is a Tokyo food tour an outstanding way for both business groups and family groups to get a better orientation of the city beyond the familiar places? Visitors should not miss out on the best seasonal and regional food because of a language barrier, and doing a food tour with a local offers a great way to get to know the city. Perks include going beyond obvious tourist points to explore back alleys, meet fellow travelers and develop a deeper understanding of the food and culture. How will the upcoming Olympics alter the local food scene? Do you have concerns about gamesrelated developments negatively affecting local dining? Japan is the Michelin capital of the world, boasting 226 Michelin-starred restaurants. As there is one restaurant for every 82 people in Tokyo, competition is high in terms of maintaining the quality of food and unparalleled service. I believe the Olympics will definitely boost local business confidence but will not have a negative impact on quality and service. On the other hand, regarding new development and the changing infrastructure, I am concerned some great eateries will be forced to move or close their doors if
they are in the path of development. What new developments going up around town do you find particularly exciting? Because Japan is a world leader in innovation and technology, the integration and use of robots to help visitors with language translation is amazing. Some world-leading companies such as Mitsubishi Electric are working on a system that will project large, free-floating holograms into the air. In addition to developing a translation device worn about the neck, Panasonic aims to create a water mist-based cooling system that does not leave marks on glasses, paper or make-up. Toyota has its eye on building a flying car in time to light the Olympic flame. What are the best areas to visit to bring the various facets of Tokyo’s character together? Yurakucho is home to Gado Shita, a lively restaurant district built under the brick arches of the elevated train tracks. Step into the narrow streets of red lanterns and neon signs, so-called Yokocho alleys, where you can find yourself back in the 1970s. In such retro ambience of the Showa period, you’ll see local izakaya restaurants, mostly frequented by locals. In Ginza, current trends meet the oldest traditions, from the Shiseido Gallery, the oldest gallery in Japan, to Tenkuni, the oldest tempura place in Ginza. It is also a haven for the newest fashion trends and architecture.
DINING ASAKUSA IMAHAN The century-old sukiyaki restaurant remains a favorite for executive gatherings with its attentive wait staff and the pure joy of cooking one’s portions of Wagyu beef and vegetables to perfection. 3 Chome-1-12 Nishi-asakusa, Taito $$$$ TAPAS MOLECULAR BAR Tapas may be a Spanish culinary art, but chefs here manage to transform it into a futuristic food-as-performance dining experience that captures the city’s 21st-century soul. Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo, 2-1-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi, 38F, Chuo $$$$ TOKYO SHIBA TOFUYA-UKAI This kaiseki dining experience epitomizes the city’s seamless and delicious fusion of past and present. What feels like an imperial Edo dwelling was actually built from a former mid-century bowling alley. 4 Chome-4-13 Shiba-koen, Minato $$$$
JUST THE FACTS
Time zone: GMT +9 Phone code: Country code: 81 City code: 3 Currency: Yen Key industries: Electronics manufacturing; transport and communication industries; wholesalers; food and beverage establishments; retail, financial and insurance industries; publishing and printing industries
BENEATH THE TRACKS: Restaurants in Yakitori Alley, Yurakucho, under the JR Yamanote Line PHOTO: © ROLAND NAGY | DREAMSTIME.COM
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SET IN STONE: Bishamonten Buddhist Temple (top left); stone lanterns in Ueno Park, Taito ward (top right); and Asakura Choso Museum (bottom)
our er on y h t e h W d or 22n second a vest in n i , t i s i v ICA or SU o m s a P y not onl t I . d r a c u in gets yo y l t f i sw t of the and ou rks also wo t i , y a subw achines m g n i d in ven ee ed coff n n a c s (Bos uses ood), b g y z a r is c s. me taxi and so
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PHOTOS: © ATTILA JANDI | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MILKOVASA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © PHILLIP MAGUIRE | DREAMSTIME.COM
DIVERSIONS
Taito, a village-y neighborhood just beyond Ueno Park, houses numerous tiny temples and the Asakura Choso Museum inside the family’s former residence. Walk a bit farther and it opens out into the Yanaka District and its Ginza that retains its pre-World War II character, even with high-end boutiques and galleries. Daikanyama, nested in Shibuya, makes an ideal hangout for a relaxed Sunday morning. Take breakfast at Ivy Place (the fresh-baked breads and egg dishes stand out) and spend a few hours wandering Tsutaya Bookstore’s three buildings. And don’t forget Kagurazaka, another offshoot from Shibuya (aka Tokyo’s French
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Quarter), a food-focused neighborhood built around the Bishamonten Zenkokuji temple. The in-town Tokyo craft mixology scene is an exciting work in progress, especially among the business networking set. Independent bars with imaginative menus include Bar Tram in Evisu and Iron Fairies in Ginza. Bar Benfiddich and Bar Mixology Laboratory play on the old-school Tokyo whiskey bars while tapping into contemporary trends such as infusions and indigenous ingredients. The eight-seat atelier of international award-winning bartender Gen Yamamoto blurs the lines between bartending and theater. Reservations are required for a four- ($45) or six-course ($60) menu.
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Check out these 2018 events coming soon and visit InsideAccess.com to view other current offers and details on how to purchase.
SKI WITH CHAMPIONS LINDSEY VONN AND JONNY MOSELEY IN VAIL MARCH 2018
Ski in Vail, Colorado, with world-class champions Lindsey Vonn and Jonny Moseley. The experience begins on a Saturday evening with a private reception and casual question-and-answer session with Lindsey and Jonny. On Sunday, ski with each champion in small-group, skill-building sessions. The weekend concludes with a casual Aprés Ski reception with Jonny.
A ROUND OF GOLF AT PEBBLE BEACH GOLF LINKS® AND THE LINKS AT SPANISH BAY™ WITH TWO NIGHTS’ LODGING, MAY 2018
A PRIVATE EVENING AT COLTIVARE PIZZA & GARDEN WITH CHEF RYAN PERA MARCH 2018 Chef Ryan Pera hosts a private evening at Coltivare Pizza & Garden in Houston. The evening will begin with a private reception in the outdoor garden featuring specialty cocktails and hors d'oeuvres followed by a five-course indoor dinner paired with wines.
Play a round of golf on one of America’s most iconic golf courses, Pebble Beach Golf Links® and The Links at Spanish Bay™. The weekend kicks off on Friday with a casual welcome reception. On Saturday, Laird Small, Director of Instruction at The Pebble Beach Golf Academy, will host a clinic prior to your Pebble Beach Golf Links® round. Then on Sunday, consecutive tee times will be available at The Links at Spanish Bay™. Weekend accommodations are provided at The Lodge at Pebble Beach.
stateside | CINCINNATI
Midwestern Modern Revitalization takes Cincinnati from ailing to amazing. BY HOLLY RIDDLE
STREET SCENE:
Shopping on Vine Street in Over-theRhine PHOTO: © 3CDC
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A CHANGE IS OCCURRING on the edge of the Midwest, right where Ohio gives way to the northern border of Kentucky and the eastern border of Indiana. The city of Cincinnati, the third-largest in the state and a regional destination for decades, is undergoing a renaissance, with revitalization making way for new business, a new millennial workforce and, in turn, new travelers. This is not Cincinnati’s first foray in the spotlight. It ranked as one of America’s top 10 cities by population in the 1800s, an important shipping hub with its location on the Ohio River, fueled by German and Irish immigrants. For a brief period, it held the name “Porkopolis,” the largest pork-producer in the world. It gained another accolade in 1890 when it was named “Beer Capital of the World,” with the historically German neighborhood Over-the-Rhine touting the most breweries per capita. However, things changed over time. Chicago took over the
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country’s pork production. Over-the Rhine fell into decline. Bigger, brighter cities took top rankings away from Cincinnati as the country moved ever westward. While Cincinnati continued to serve its loyal citizens as well as those in the surrounding rural regions of Ohio and Kentucky, it was hardly a national destination. Additionally, Procter & Gamble, Kroger and the select Fortune 500 companies located in Cincinnati found it increasingly difficult to attract a workforce from outside the area. By the time the Cincinnati riots of 2001 occurred, it was clear a change was needed. According to Joe Rudemiller, senior communications manager, Cincinnati Center City Development Corp., or 3CDC, “Following a period of civil unrest, a number of corporate leaders got together with then-mayor Charlie Luken and formed a nonprofit development company with the goal of revitalizing Cincinnati’s urban core.” The result was 3CDC. “We’ve been at this for almost 15 years now. … We’ve put in $1.3 billion worth of projects between the central business district and Over-the-Rhine in downtown Cincinnati. One of our first projects — which I’d recommend anyone coming to Cincinnati visit — is Fountain Square, right in the heart of the central business district. When 3CDC first got started, the city was kind of crime-ridden and unsafe. A lot of unsavory activity
[was] going on, and Over-the-Rhine had really fallen into a state of disrepair.” Multiple multimillion-dollar projects helped the city make a remarkable transformation. Over-the-Rhine, the largest, most intact historic district in the country, boasts a once-again budding brewery scene. Findlay Market, the state’s oldest continuously operated public market, draws visiting foodies and locals alike. From the eclectic murals (each comes with its own story) to the Italianate architecture, it’s no wonder Cushman and Wakefield ranked Over-the-Rhine as one of the top 15 coolest neighborhoods in North America. Beyond, one can find the same metamorphosis throughout the rest of the city. Running through downtown, Vine Street forms a dining and shopping corridor with a plethora of new and upcoming restaurants, bars and retail shops. A similar arts corridor features Cincinnati Music Hall, a breathtaking structure built in 1878, on which 3CDC just completed a $144 million renovation. Right next door another recently renovated, smaller concert hall — Memorial Hall — can seat 600 to Music Hall’s 2,000–2,500. Then, down the street, the Cincinnati Shakespeare Company likewise just opened a new theater. To zip between the various neighborhoods, the city added environmentally friendly transportation options like Cincinnati Red Bike, a bike share program, as well as the affordable and convenient streetcar system that runs on a 3.6-mile loop. While all these improvements were originally intended to benefit the residents, at least from the standpoint of an organization such as 3CDC, they certainly don’t hurt tourism, either. New hotels pop up all over the city to cater to travelers of every ilk. Recent additions include the historic Art Deco Renaissance Cincinnati Downtown Hotel, the trendy 21c Museum Hotel Cincinnati and AC Hotel Cincinnati at The Banks by Marriott. Upcoming properties include a Kimpton hotel set to open in 2019
LOCAL FARE:
Cincinnati-style chili at Camp Washington Chili (top), and rooftop bar at 21c Museum Hotel (bottom) PHOTOS: © TERI STUDIOS, © 21C MUSEUM HOTEL
st y’s mo is t i c e h ft ts One o linary trea t s cu i. Ge famou i-style chil t nat Cincin f the best a st o Camp the be s u o -fam world on Chili. ingt Wash
SCENIC DRIVES
as well as another from Marriott’s Autograph Collection. Multiple state-of-the-art event venues make MICE planning a breeze. “Right now Cincinnati is a fantastic place to visit. It has a really vibrant, downtown urban core,” says Rudemiller. “It’s come a long way over the past 13–14 years, thanks to not only a lot of the work our organization has done but so many other folks in the community.” Community is a big part of what makes the current Cincinnati rebirth possible. Talk to locals, regardless of age, and they’ll gush about everything new, amazing and exciting happening right in their city. They love the combination of urban convenience and Midwestern friendliness. A burgeoning startup community provides new job opportunities, and support for entrepreneurs runs rampant, regardless of the endeavor. Now, only one question remains: Can Cincinnati keep its charm and humble likability while standing tall as a prime example of Midwestern revitalization?
Cincinnati’s location makes a rural escape easy. Head to Hocking Hills State Forest for a 2.5-hour drive to a 9,000-acre paradise, where the geology ranges from jaw-dropping cave systems to deep gorges to dense forests. Spot waterfalls, centuriesold trees and abandoned farms. Adventurers are more than welcome to stop for a bit of rock climbing and rappelling. Head farther south into Kentucky for a different kind of scenery, to Red River Gorge country. The intricate canyon system is hardly what you’d expect to find in the land of bluegrass, bourbon and horse farms, but it’s delightful all the same, regardless of the time of year you visit. However, if bluegrass, bourbon and horse farms are really what strike your fancy, that’s an option as well. The closest spot on the bourbon trail to Cincinnati is Woodford Reserve in Versailles, Ky., and the 90-minute drive is filled with plenty of horse farms and rolling hills to fill your Instagram feed for days.
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9–5 | WARSAW
Rising from the Ashes Warsaw’s reconstructed center attracts business travelers and tourists. BY JOE BAUR CITY SPIRIT:
Birds fly through Stare Miasto Market Square, where the Mermaid Syrena Statue stands guard. PHOTO: © ANDREI BORTNIKAU | DREAMSTIME.COM
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EVERYTHING OLD IS NEW AGAIN. The idiom rings especially true in Warsaw, where 80–90 percent of the city was destroyed by the time Nazi soldiers fled. Only a smattering of buildings in the Praga neighborhood remained, one location where Władysław Szpilman, whose story was popularized by The Pianist, lived in hiding. The façades of weathered, block-shaped apartment buildings still display bullet holes, and rusted metal doors guard the entryways. The neighborhood appears locked in that horrific decade save a few gentrifying restaurants and bars like Zakład Mięsny, a relatively recent rehab project serving up Polish craft beers. Old Town, on the other hand, exudes a sense of grandeur as you approach Warsaw Castle, anchoring the spacious, pedestrian-only Castle Square. This leads to narrow side streets lined with charming, colorful buildings stacked neatly together. Lime green, beige, brown, white, orange — hardly the stereotypical image of cold Central Europe, it feels like walking in a painting.
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You’d be forgiven for that sentiment, as the reconstruction of Stare Miasto (Old Town) was based largely on the work of Italian urban landscape painter and printmaker Bernardo Bellotto. Bellotto was celebrated in the 18th century for his stunning work recreating grand European cities such as Dresden, Vienna and Warsaw, where he spent the last days of his life. Between 1770 and 1780, Bellotto created 26 vedute (large-scale depictions of cityscapes) of Warsaw for the Panorama Room at the Royal Castle. These works proved essential references for rebuilding Warsaw to its former glory, though it was impossible to recreate every nook and cranny. Poland, now a decade-plus in the European Union, is experiencing a rush of tourists and business travelers from all over the continent and beyond who flock to Warsaw’s reconstructed center for selfies and sightseeing. Generally missing are everyday Varsovians. Nonetheless, Old Town rose from the ashes of fascism and should be celebrated.
You’ll have no problem finding a hotel here. An obvious suggestion is the Hotel Bellotto, named after the artist. The original 16th-century building was destroyed in 1939, but the Swedes, Saxons, Vlachs and Cossacks all had their turn at ransacking the place centuries prior. The rebuilt 5-star property features 20 guestrooms that positively spoil you. You’ll find a solid option for a power breakfast or business coffee nearby at Shabby Chic Coffee & Wine Bar, just a five-minute walk from the hotel. Select from breakfast styles including Polish and French; or if you’ve started your morning with a snack at the hotel, come back for a business lunch. Another nearby local favorite is the Viennese-style Café Bristol. Enjoy the high ceilings and round tables while you discuss your business. Like Shabby Chic, a Polish breakfast with free-range scrambled eggs, sausage and local Koryciński cheese is available. Or try the Fit Breakfast with homemade granola cereals, sunflower and pumpkin seeds, honey, cranberries and goji berries. For a business lunch or dinner, Restaurant Literatka offers fine dining along the Krakowskie Przedmieście. The Royal Castle sits in the foreground as you sample an elegant take on Polish cuisine with a dash of international flavors. You’ll find familiar hotel brands like ibis, Radisson and Westin closer to the main train station, Warszawa Centralna, across from the Palace of Culture and Science — a commanding testament to the Art Deco architecture left over from the communist period. These properties offer a convenient location for getting to and from convention centers such as PGE Narodowy (National Stadium), Expo XXI and MT Polska, where most conference business takes place. Warsaw is increasingly an international city, with English widely spoken as a second language. Business etiquette is similar to elsewhere in Europe and the Western world, though like its Germanic neighbors, Poland leans toward direct speak. However, Varsovians are just as likely to acclimate to American business customs. If you arrive at Warsaw Chopin International Airport, rail offers the most convenient option to the city center via the S2 or S3 lines. Public transport is prevalent; trams and buses conveniently crisscross the city, and the Veturilo bike share system provides a fantastic means for experiencing the fresh, wide bike lanes when weather cooperates. For a truly local experience and memorable visit, you can’t beat Autor Rooms. This artist-run property dwells in a limbo between Airbnb and hotel, with its location in an apartment building in the Śródmieście Południowe neighborhood. Local artists designed the property and its rooms, and it offers an experience most visitors to Warsaw never have. Best of all, you’re surrounded by some of the most popular local eateries. Grab a casual lunch just up the street at Tel Aviv Food & Wine, dinner at La Sirena: The Mexican Food Cartel for some of the best Mexican in Europe, and enjoy a nightcap at Kraken Rum Bar or one of the PiwPaw’s that serve Polish craft beer. Experience War-
saw’s communist legacy at a milk bar (bar mleczny). Originating here in 1896, milk bars played a key role after World War II when Poland was a satellite state of the Soviet Union and most residents struggled to feed their families. The government propped up milk bars in the 1960s to offer cheap meals. As the name hints, most meals consisted of dairy-based foods, especially when meat was rationed. Most milk bars disappeared following the collapse of communism, but they’ve made a nostalgic comeback. Locals claim the food improved compared to the original incarnations, with most preferring these home-cooked meals over fast-food restaurants. Join the elderly, students and working class of Warsaw for a €2–3 meal at Bambino, Rusalka or Milk Bar Prasowy. Almost every capital city boasts a reputable art museum, so focus your cultural intake on what makes Warsaw unique. The impressive Warsaw Uprising Museum depicts the fall of Warsaw to the Nazis, life under occupation, attempts by the local Jewish community and Polish nationals to fight back, and the city’s razing as the Soviets liberated the city. To lighten the mood, head to The Fryderyk Chopin Museum, celebrating the legendary 19th-century composer — the perfect cap to your business trip before heading to the airport named in his honor.
STANDING TALL: Palace of Culture and Science PHOTO: © MICHAL BEDNAREK | DREAMSTIME.COM
pin spent Frédéric Cho t is an pi d an r vian compose in Warsaw Though Varso s always been ha t ar he s hi , reer in Paris took her most of his ca ster Ludwika si s hi , th ea d Following his rests at the —literally. urn, where it an in d an ol t back to P brother’s hear . e Holy Cross Church of th MARCH 2018
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after 5 | DURBAN
Durban After Dark With local knowledge, visitors can safely sample the city’s nightlife. BY RICHARD NEWTON THE SUN GOES DOWN on Durban’s Golden Mile, setting the Indian Ocean aflame. For the majority of visitors to this South African city, the advance of darkness is edged with anxiety. Heeding the guidebook warnings, they retreat to the safety of their hotels until daybreak. But others greet the approaching night with anticipation. This vibrant city comes into its own after nightfall. Crime is certainly an issue here, and it is not advisable to walk the downtown streets in the dark. But with local advice and by taking taxis between venues, one can enjoy all the city offers without undue risk. And it’s worth it. Suncoast Casino and Entertainment World bursts into neon life when the sun goes down. More than a touch reminiscent of Miami’s Art Deco South Beach, this glitzy complex at the northern end of the Golden Mile offers a range of cafés and restaurants, a multiscreen cinema and a gambling hall. For more artisanal entertainment, seek out The Jazzy Rainbow, a live music venue ingeniously occupying a colonial-era house in Morningside district, just inland from downtown. South Africa boasts a proud jazz tradition, and this venue offers a great place to experience it firsthand. The epicenter of Durban nightlife, Florida Road in Morningside, is a street of historic colonial buildings converted into shops, restaurants, pubs and clubs. Here you’ll be able to discover the homegrown electronic music style, gqom (you’ll also hear it blaring from minibus taxis throughout the city during the day). Being a form of house music, the gqom scene is dynamic. For the best (and safest) current venues, it’s advisable to have someone with local knowledge to guide you. One of the city’s best LGBTQ venues, Club Altitude, is located in Berea, the district adjacent to Morningside. Consult the club’s website for information about what’s on, and note Tuesday nights welcome men only. A survey for Durban Tourism found only 20 percent of visitors sample the city’s nightlife. That will undoubtedly change as increasing numbers of visitors discover what all the others have been missing.
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named s i n a Durb h Britis r e t f a ir alist S ban. coloni ’Ur min D y Benja cipalit i n u m The now ole is h w a ini. as Thekw e s a known NIGHT OUT:
Live music at The Jazzy Rainbow (top), and Durban beach at night (bottom) PHOTOS: © THE JAZZY RAINBOW, © IRISHKA777 | DREAMSTIME.COM
neighborhoods | CHIANG MAI
NATURAL HABITAT: Elephants and their handlers enjoying the water (left), and bananas for the elephants (right)
Elephant Tales
PHOTOS ©KIMBERLY KROL
Gain a deeper understanding of pachyderms at Thailand’s reputable sanctuaries. BY KIMBERLY KROL ELEPHANT TOURISM IN THAILAND can be a controversial subject. While many places use the majestic animals more for entertainment, there are reputable sanctuaries where, rather than playing soccer with elephants, you can feed them, bathe them and learn more about their stories. With a little bit of research, travelers can discern the right sanctuary to visit while in the northern regions of Thailand, including the area outside Chiang Mai. Whether or not one chooses to spend time at an elephant sanctuary, the city of Chiang Mai is a cultural hub, offering rich experiences and unbelievable cuisine around every turn and in each neighborhood. One of the most respected elephant camps within an easy drive of Chiang Mai is Elephant Nature Park. Book early, as space is limited. I spent a morning at Baan Chang Elephant Park, also just outside of the city. Check with the Tourism Authority of Thailand on recommended sanctuaries. A few tips for choosing one: Pick a place that does not train elephants to do tricks or separate young elephants from their mothers. There was a baby at the park on the day of my visit, and mother and child were kept together and separated from the other elephants in order to bond. Do not choose a sanctuary that allows you to ride on a chair placed atop the elephant’s back. The best way to ride an elephant,
if you are doing so, is bareback and sitting on the neck. The chairs atop the elephant’s spine can crush the small bones that stick up and cause immense pain to the animal. Chiang Mai Sanctuaries with good reputations rescue elephants from illegal logging and hunting operations and provide excellent medical care. At these parks you will feed them, assist in bathing, learn more about the mahout/elephant connection and get a taste and experience of the culture surrounding THAILAND Thai mahouts and elephants. On my half-day experience I changed into a traditional mahout outfit; learned about the elephants’ eating habits; Bangkok fed them bamboo and bananas; received more information about the provided medical care, rescue efforts and conservation in place at the park; met the new babies born just weeks before; took a jungle walk with the awe-inspiring creatures; watched them bathe; and enjoyed a traditional pad Thai lunch before departing. I left with an even greater respect for the beautiful animals, and the true bond formed between elephant and mahout. Deciding to visit an elephant sanctuary is a personal decision, and one that should be made after research. Animal tourism has its many pitfalls, but if you choose a reputable sanctuary, you gain an invaluable, deeper understanding of the animals and the efforts made to save them.
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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
Welcome Lotte Arai Resort The Japanese luxury property pleases travelers from the accommodations to the slopes. LOTTE HOTELS & RESORTS OPENED Lotte Arai Resort in Myoko City, Niigata Prefecture, Japan, in December 2017, after two years of extensive remodeling. The composite ski resort boasts the best facilities to delight and entertain travelers of all ages, interest levels and ski abilities. Explore the new luxury resort and its surrounding area.
perfect for skiing. On a clear day, visitors can see to ocean from the slopes. The resort offers more than 387 acres of ski run area for beginning, intermediate and advanced skiers. With a long season from December to May and a sledding slope for children, travelers can take advantage of variety of facilities the whole family can enjoy.
SITUATED IN NIIGATA PREFECTURE, a well-known ski destination, Lotte Arai Resort, the top mountain resort in Asia, boasts four hotel buildings with 257 guestrooms, four lifts, one gondola, 11 slopes, 10 off-piste areas, a hot spring, a swimming pool and a banquet hall. A variety of on-site dining options include local Japanese eateries; a food court; Hoshizora Winery; a café; an Italian restaurant; a bakery; and a bar. Other resort activities include the longest zip tour in Asia; a tubing course, the longest in Japan; bouldering; a Fun Wall; a professional trampoline; a gondola; a swimming pool and sauna; a spa; a fitness center; and customized ski lessons taught by former members of the Australian national ski team.
ANOTHER ATTRACTION in the area is the hot spring, drawing water from more than 5,700 feet underground. Containing metasilicic acid to keep skin moisturized, Lotte Arai Resort’s outdoor hot spring is perfect for relaxation, health and maintaining beauty.
MT. OKENASHI, HOME of the resort, receives heavy powder snow snowfalls,
THROUGH MARCH 2018, Lotte Arai Resort’s special ski offer includes accommodations, choice of Japanese or Western-style breakfast for two, a one-day economy lift pass for two and access to the hot spring. For more on this offer and information about Lotte Arai Resort, visit lottehotel.com/arai. LOTTE HOTEL CURRENTLY operates 27 hotels and resorts across a range of accommodation options, from lifestyle hotel L7 to luxury hotel Signiel.
friends & family | MANAGUA
Managua Reimagined Discover the unexpected pleasures of Nicaragua’s capital city. BY JACK GUY
FROM ABOVE:
Church in Managua PHOTO: © DIMARIK16 | DREAMSTIME.COM
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SEEING THIS MUDDLED and chaotic city takes a bit of effort, which might be why most people go to Granada or León instead. But you’ll find fascinating history, geography and culture to 4uncover when you and your family arrive in Managua. Founded as the Nicaraguan capital as a compromise to the historic conflict between rival cities Granada and León, Managua is the political and economic powerhouse of modern Nicaragua. Unfortunately, the founding fathers didn’t think about the susceptibility of the site to earthquakes, which devastated Managua on various occasions throughout the ages.
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The last big shake came in 1972, destroying the old center of the city and leaving a curious jumble of neighborhoods in its wake. You might be confused by the lack of a discernible tourist district, with attractions dotted around in new developments and malls, but even more confusing is the lack of addresses. Managuas, as the locals are known, get around by referring to landmarks such as Lake Managua or the imposing Crowne Plaza Hotel. While this system may work for long-term residents, it can make things difficult for new arrivals. With that in mind, and given the distances between places of interest, you and your family might be better off hiring a car and driver for a day if you want to explore. It should set you back around $50 per day, affording you both freedom
and peace of mind at minimal cost. Explore the city with the driver. First stop: Parque Histórico Nacional Loma de Tiscapa, providing great views over the city to Lake Managua from the lip of a spectacular lagoon in the crater of a volcano. Adventurous types can have a go on the zip line over the lagoon, while others can take a stroll around the park or check out the photo exhibit telling the story of revolutionary leader Augusto Sandino and his fight against the occupation of Nicaragua by U.S. forces. The park is also home to the famous statue of Sandino, visible from all over the city. Revolutionary history is everywhere in Nicaragua, with no single person more prominent than Sandino. The celebrated fighter might have been assassinated in 1934, but his name lived on in the Sandinista group that went from guerrilla army to a political party that rules Nicaragua today. Those with an interest in history should take a look at the National Assembly Pedestrian Walk, with open-air exhibits on a path that leads down to the lakefront. It makes for an interesting stroll in the late afternoon light. After the day’s work is done, get together with your family at La Casa de los Mejía Godoy. This restaurant, bar and music venue
hosts Nicaragua’s most famous living musicians, Carlos and Luis Enrique Mejía Godoy. Their folky rhythms have been a mainstay of Nicaraguan culture since the 1960s, and they are so popular you’ll have to make a reservation if you want to see them play. The best nights to go are Wednesdays to Saturdays, when the venue stays open until 1 a.m. After a night of merriment, your family can make a relaxed start to the next day while you attend to business. Peruse an interesting window into the contrasts of Managua at the city’s two cathedrals, with the Vieja Catédral de Managua left as a glamorous Neoclassical shell due to a series of earthquakes. Instead of repairing it, the government decided to build the Nueva Catédral in 1993, boasting a collection of 63 small domes locals compare to breasts. You’ll have to see it to believe it. After marveling at the grand cathedrals, it’s time to experience daily life at the Roberto Huembes Market. Home to a huge bus terminal, it’s also the best spot to buy souvenirs from artisans who come from all over Nicaragua to hawk wares. Take your driver with you and keep an eye on your bags, as pickpockets can be a menace. In the evening, meet up at the Teatro Nacional Rubén Darío, a grand theater that
LARGER THAN LIFE:
The silhouette of Augusto Sandino next to a tree of life in Parque Histórico Nacional PHOTO: © TRICIADANIEL | DREAMSTIME.COM
LODGING
CROWNE PLAZA MANAGUA One of the most recognizable landmarks in the city, this distinctive white pyramid has long been a favorite with visitors. Octava Calle Sur Oeste 101 $$ HOTEL GLOBALES CAMINO REAL MANAGUA Well-located near the airport, the Globales offers convenience for those with early flights. Gym, spa and pool facilities make for a great stay. Km 9.5 Carretera Norte $$ REAL INTERCONTINENTAL METROCENTRO MANAGUA For luxury, head to the InterContinental, famed for its huge pool and bar. Though set up for business travelers, it includes enough amenities to keep the rest of the family happy. Frente a Centro Comercial, Metrocentro, Carretera a Massaya $$$
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SEE THE SIGHTS:
Masaya Volcano National Park (top), and boy selling watermelon at Mercado Roberto Huembes (bottom) PHOTOS: © BRIZARDH | DREAMSTIME.COM, © SJORS737 | DREAMSTIME.COM
DINING
LOS RANCHOS Come here for the best steak in town, with the churrasco highly recommended. Enjoy the great service and refined atmosphere. Km. 3.5, Carretera Sur, Montoya 3 cuarda al Oeste $$ LE CAFÉ DE PARIS French cuisine and great wines highlight the options at this French-run spot. Try the foie gras steak, the most renowned item on the menu. Hotel Los Robles, Avenida Principal Los Robles $$$–$$$$ LA COCINA DE DOÑA HAYDÉE Eat as the Nicaraguans do and get to know the local flavors at this successful restaurant which now operates in three locations. Km. 4.5 Carretera a Masaya, 71 Paseo de la Unión Europea $$
INFO TO GO
International flights use Augusto C. Sandino International Airport, lying just seven miles from the center of the city. Airport taxis offer convenient services to your hotel, and shuttles serve larger groups.
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remarkably survived the earthquakes that devastated large parts of the city. The main stage often hosts international performers, while emerging local acts also perform in the smaller Pilar Aguirre room. Before you go, check the listings to see what’s on. If nothing catches your eye, take a look at Códice Espacio Cultural for more contemporary culture. Promoting national contemporary artists since 1991, the thoughtful programs of this event space command respect throughout the region. Wind down together after a long day at Bar Cultural El Caramanchel, a trendy bar great for a nightcap. The relaxed atmosphere draws a crowd of fashionable Managuas who give you a good idea of how Nicaraguan society is developing. If you have an extra day before flying home, make the trip to Masaya Volcano National Park just outside the city. The tiny country is crowded with 19 active volcanoes, and Masaya lies only an hour from the city center. Walk through the petrified lava fields to reach the huge crater, where the sulphur makes it hard to spend more than a few minutes peering down into its depths. Make the short drive to Coyotepe Fortress, a former prison offering great views, and then stop by the Mercado Nacional de Artesanías in the village of Masaya to pick up some last-minute souvenirs. Volcanoes, earthquakes and a tumultuous recent history conspire to make Managua an intriguing if at times confusing place to visit. But don’t let that stop you from getting to know the city.
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STAND UP FOR US ALL
Clinical trials bring us closer to the day when all cancer patients can become survivors. Clinical trials are an essential path to progress and the brightest torch researchers have to light their way to better treatments. That’s because clinical trials allow researchers to test cutting-edge and potentially life-saving treatments while giving participants access to the best options available. If you’re interested in exploring new treatment options that may also light the path to better treatments for other patients, a clinical trial may be the right option for you. Speak with your doctor and visit StandUpToCancer.org/ClinicalTrials to learn more.
Sonequa Martin-Green, SU2C Ambassador Photo Credit: Matt Sayles Stand Up To Cancer is a division of the Entertainment Industry Foundation, a 501(c)(3) charitable organization.
bucket list | UKRAINE
Disaster Zone A tour of Chernobyl unearths haunting images of the nuclear accident. BY KIMBERLY KROL
THE FORLORN, LONG-FORGOTTEN amusement park swing swayed ever so slightly in the breeze. Hauntingly, the neighboring abandoned Ferris wheel creaked quietly as the wind passed through its never-used carts. It sketched a scene from a scary movie in many ways. As I learned that day, it was quite literally the set of a disaster horror film, 2012’s Chernobyl Diaries. And it was also one of many areas affected by the world’s worst manmade disaster, the Chernobyl Nuclear Disaster in 1986. There I stood, steps from these aging, slightly creepy amusement park rides, simply imagining the weight of the meltdown and its innumerable casualties. And I’m not alone. As disaster tourism and urban exploration continue to surge in popularity, sites like Chernobyl become increasingly interesting to tourists. In 2016 approximately 40,000 visited the Ukrainian site, opting for daytrips or multiday journeys of up to seven days. That number is only expected to climb. Is it safe? Naturally, this question crossed my mind and, truthfully, the minds of those closest to me. I read articles in advance of making my decision and was told the radiation exposure of one day in Chernobyl is equivalent to that of a round-trip, trans-Atlantic flight. My visit was more than 30 years beyond the April 26, 1986,
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incident, and after research, preparation and other assurances, I felt comfortable and confident in the decision to explore the area. Perhaps there is no definitive answer to the question of safety; deciding to visit is a personal choice. As a precaution, I packed old clothes and bought cheap sneakers, all of which I discarded after my visit. People work at Chernobyl, tourists visit and life in some ways continues in the Exclusion Zone. Chornobyl Tour operated my daytrip, departing Kyiv around 7:30 a.m. My group met the tour van near Kyiv Railway Station. Before departing, it’s important to keep in mind the guidelines required by Exclusion Zone regulations. No one is allowed in without a passport, so you must bring this with you. This is of critical importance. Our van stopped outside the entrance to the Exclusion Zone for nearly 30 minutes as our credentials were checked. A jacket or a shirt with long sleeves and trousers (no shorts, skirts or leggings allowed) and fully enclosed boots or sneakers are required. We didn’t arrive back in Kyiv until almost 8 p.m., so, additionally, prepare for an entire day away from the city and your hotel. On the way from Kyiv to Chernobyl (with a stop to use restrooms and load up on snacks), our tour guide both shared
INFO TO GO
International flights will arrive at Boryspil International Airport in Kyiv. Ukraine International Airlines operates a direct flight from New York (JFK) to Kyiv. As you visit Chernobyl with a tour company, transportation will be arranged to the Exclusion Zone.
information about the disaster and played a documentary that included commentary from involved parties such as Mikhail Gorbachev. It was heartbreaking to watch video clips of people living and working in Pripyat — a town built and planned specifically for the workers of Chernobyl Power Plant and their families and only three kilometers from the reactor — as radiation filled the air they breathed. They remained unaware as government officials, it seemed, figured out how to conceal the issue. Acid rain in Sweden in the days following the meltdown clued the world to the truth. The documentary also delved into the various clean-up efforts. My daytrip included several different stops, starting with the Dytyatky checkpoint, the official entrance to the Exclusion Zone, and the village of Zalissya, an abandoned town including the house of the only self-settler, Rozaliya Ivanivna. The village of Kopachi is almost fully buried, but a kindergarten remains. Here, our Geiger counters, which we wore around our necks, went crazy, registering the highest levels of radiation we experienced all day. This offered a sobering thought. More than 30 years later, it’s still highly radioactive, yet children attended classes there the day after the reactor fire. With a few other stops along the way — including to the
reactor; to the power plant’s cooling pond where we fed giant catfish; and to a giant Soviet radar antenna, “DUGA-1,” in the secret town of Chernobyl-2 — we finally arrived in Pripyat, where we explored on foot the land Mother Nature is reclaiming. A former four-lane highway now is a barely discernible trail. The dilapidated buildings and soccer stadium remain home to everyday items like shopping carts, and some curtains still sway in the breeze, visible through shards of broken glass. Soviet-era vending machines stand ramshackle against a building, while the never-used, aforementioned amusement park lives on eerily. Urban explorers were once able to walk in these buildings, but today the threat of collapse renders the structures off limits. Our visit concluded in Chernobyl, where we ate a late lunch, viewed an open-air exhibition of the transport vehicles and robots used in the clean-up activities and paused for a moment at the memorial “to those who saved the world.” Before departing from the Exclusion Zone, our radiation levels were measured. I received a 0.003 mSv irradiation dose. As we began the trip back to Kyiv to spend the next few days exploring the country, I was certain of one thing: A spirit of revolution is alive in Ukraine.
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ABANDONED: (Left to right) Radiation detector, old toys left behind, an amusement park ride, a mural and the entrance sign PHOTOS: © KIMBERLY KROL
ile em Wh y se a m it ng, risi e surp o peopl n h wit g or in hunt ing the ad degr nment, o r nd envi ls abou a anim rnobyl he in C e the pit des ion. iat rad globaltravelerusa.com
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kicking back | PHILIPPINES
Philippine Fusion Explore Vigan’s Spanish-Asian heritage and charm. BY SHARON KING HOGE
QUAINT AND QUIET:
(Left to right) The streets of Vigan, the Crisologo Museum, and Mindoro Island PHOTOS: © AKARAT PHASURA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © PDNAVALES | DREAMSTIME.COM, © EFIRED | DREAMSTIME.COM
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LUZON MAY BE DOMINATED by the bustling capital city, Manila, but there’s another unique location on the largest of the Philippine archipelago’s 7,500 islands. Vigan, the country’s only UNESCO World Heritage site, lies 250 miles north along the west coast, facing the South China Sea. A visit to its cobblestone streets and Philippine/Oriental fusion architecture offers an opportunity to experience the historic charm of one of the best-preserved Spanish colonial towns in Asia. Now part of the mainland as a result of silting in the Mestizo River, originally the city was an island settled by early Chinese immigrants who developed a major Silk Route port. They called it “Beautiful Shore,” or Bee Gan, a pronunciation corrupted by the Spanish who arrived in 1572 to take over the thriving post trading gold, timber and beeswax. Known then as Villa Fernandina in honor of a Spanish prince, its vivid history evolved during the mid-17th century into a hotbed of dissent against the
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Spanish overlords who assassinated revolutionary Diego Silang and publicly hanged his wife and successor, Gabriela. During World War II, the arrival of the Japanese Army escaping American bombers spared the city from destruction. Today, its three interconnected main squares preserve the ambience of colonial times. With a population of just more than 50,000 and few automobiles, the compact city is easy to explore on foot, by horse carriage and tricycles. Fleets of horse-drawn kalesas clip-clop through the city, charging only about 150 pesos ($3.50) per hour. Less nostalgic but faster and more efficient are tricycle taxis — sidecar motorcycles that whiz passengers anywhere in town for less than a quarter. Following the customary Spanish “Law of the Indies” town plan (a grid anchored by a central plaza or park), Vigan grew up around Plaza Salcedo, today dominated by a pool surrounded by religious and administrative buildings: the Casa Real and Municipal Hall and the Bishop’s Palace beside massive, thick-walled St. Paul’s Cathedral, named for the city’s patron saint, St. Paul the Apostle. Designed to survive, the church was created in the Earthquake Baroque style, low and wide with heavily buttressed side walls to withstand tremors. As a further
LODGING
CORDILLERA INN Rich history and modern facilities, past and present, meet in 24 refurbished, airconditioned, pristine white rooms with traditional wood furniture and gossamer netting looped over fourposter beds. 29 Mena Crisologo St. $$ HOTEL LUNA With laudable location, service and food, the Philippines’ only museum hotel showcases art in historic, ornately decorated whitewashed rooms overlooking an arcaded courtyard surrounding the pool. Luna Street $$
precaution, the belfry stands beside the church, detached to avoid collapse onto the main structure. Chinese details on the brass communion handrails provide signs of the locale’s multicultural mixture and is typical of the amalgamation of Chinese, Spanish and American influences on the buildings throughout town. Right beside the cathedral — and unusual to the traditional Spanish design — a second public square, Plaza Burgos, presents a lively scene of food stalls peddling local snacks. Diners can sit at picnic tables and try arroz caldo, chicken porridge; soupy miki, noodles; ukoy, deep-fried shrimp mixed with flour and eggs; poqui-poqui, mashed eggplant and egg; and the city’s famous fluffy but crunchy empanadas. Homesick travelers can opt for a three-piece hearty meal at the picturesque “vintage-style” ochre plaster McDonald’s. Plaza Burgos honors Padre José Burgos, the 19th-century Roman Catholic priest whose martyrdom sparked the Philippine Revolution. A few blocks west, the rambling 18th-century building that was his home now holds the Burgos Museum, where exhibited relics chronicle his life. Discouraged by the clergy’s support of harsh Spanish practices, he wrote an open letter “To the Spanish People” arguing for reform. When soldiers and workers mutinied, Padre Burgos was arrested in retalia-
tion and executed by garrote in 1872 in Manila. Steps away, Old Town, or the Mestizo District, comprises 24 city blocks lined with pastel-hued ancestral homes. These authentic and faithfully restored mansions, designed in a combination of Oriental and Spanish styles, boast arched windows, filigree wrought-iron trim, crenellated awnings and ventilated walls. In some, the ground floor has been converted to shops selling a plethora of souvenirs — pottery, curios, baskets, thousands of flip flops — to browsers who shop while their patient horses stand at carriages along the main thoroughfare, Crisologo Street, closed to motor traffic. While many homes remain in private hands, a few open to the public enable visitors to get a sense of the past lifestyle. Visitors can make an appointment to see the vintage wood furniture, curios and oil paintings of the Quema House, while Syquia Mansion, former home of President Elpidio Qirino, includes a collection of presidential memorabilia. One large mansion converted into the Crisologo Museum displays everyday family artifacts as well as the trousers and sunglasses local Congressman Floro Chrisologo was wearing the day he was assassinated in 1970 while attending mass in the Cathedral. Swimmers can hire a tricycle for the 15-minute ride to
HOTEL VENETO DE VIGAN This recently renovated, centrally located, rambling white plaster edifice features a coffee shop, bar and restaurant and also offers free WiFi, airport transfers and plenty of parking spaces. Bonifacio Street $$
INFO TO GO
Hardy travelers can opt for the drive or bus trip, a scenic six-hour ramble up Luzon’s west coast through quaint villages, past mango groves, maize drying in the sun and distant mountains. More realistic is the hour-long flight from Manila (MNL) to Laoag (LAO), the nearest airport; from there, taxis and shuttles make the 40-minute drive to Vigan. Philippine Airlines flies the route two to three times daily, and the fare costs about $150.
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DINING
CAFÉ BIGAA This cozy converted pub serves a Vigan sampler for diners who want to try the local bagnet and pinakbet. Vigan Plaza Hotel, Mena Crisologo Street, Plaza Burgos $$
COLORFUL CREATIONS:
Plaza Salcedo fountain (top), fried crispy pork bagnet and pinakbet (bottom) PHOTOS: © REYNAN IGNACIO | DREAMSTIME.COM, © AUDIOSCIENCE | DREAMSTIME.COM, © RECYAP8 | DREAMSTIME.COM
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the black-sand expanse of Mindoro Beach. Another outlying option is the quirky 40minute cruise on the Mestizo River. Colorful open boats covered with awnings paddle the narrow waterway while an audio guide describes five “tableaus” constructed on the bank. Life-size costumed mannequins populate the diorama scenes depicting Vigan’s history from pre-colonial times through the 1572 arrival of Juan de Salcedo and on to an elaborate exhibit celebrating the local products of trade: weapons, vinegar and fish paste. For dining, local fare assimilates regional, Chinese and Spanish dishes. The province’s specialty Ilocano cuisine features local vegetables enhanced with sweet, sour and salty flavors. In pinakbet, bitter melon, eggplant, squash and okra are cooked with bagoong, fermented shrimp, or bagnet, sun-dried pork belly, fried crisp before it’s mixed with the vegetables. Soupy variations of pinakbet include dinengdeng, principally squash cooked with fewer vegetables, and dinoydoy, which balances the flavors of squash and bitter melon. Only the adventurous need sample pork blood-based lumo soup and the sinanglao mixture of beef broth and innards. Local sugarcane wine accompanies meals. For a colorful conclusion to the day, enjoy the nightly fountain show. At 7:30 p.m., Plaza Salcedo lights up with sprays and spouts of water dancing to tunes ranging from the Titanic theme to the Philippine national anthem.
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CAFÉ LEONA Casual and conveniently located, this long-time favorite serves Philippine specialties and popular brick-oven bagnet pizza. Its outdoor tables draw an evening crowd. Mena Crisologo Street $$ LILONG & LILANG Located within the Hidden Garden two miles west of town, this Asian-inspired outdoor restaurant is a place to find authentic local Ilocano cuisine served in the ambience of tropical plants and flowers. Hidden Garden, Barangay Bulala $$
lgbtq
Making Waves Top spots in the Caribbean offer a warm welcome to LGBTQ travelers. BY MARK CHESNUT
WITH DOZENS OF ISLANDS and diverse influences from Europe, Africa and the Americas, the Caribbean offers decidedly different experiences that vary by destination. That makes it even more important for LGBTQ travelers to pick the places that are most gay-friendly and offer the most rewarding ways to enjoy the sun, sand and excitement. In terms of legal protection and rights, the U.S. territories of Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands rate among the Caribbean’s most progressive since they operate with the same antidiscrimination regulations and legalized same-sex marriage laws as the mainland United States. Puerto Rico offers the most extensive gay-specific activities, especially in San Juan, where the gay beach section in the Condado neighborhood packs in sun worshipers during the day, and dance clubs like Circo attract night owls to the nearby Santurce area. In addition, a number of upscale hotels in Puerto Rico are members of the International Lesbian and Gay Travel Association, including La Concha Renaissance San Juan Resort, The Condado Plaza Hilton, San Juan Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino and San Juan Water Beach Club Hotel. The U.S. Virgin Islands, meanwhile, offer a more laid-back vibe, with IGLTA member hotels including the Renaissance St. Croix Carambola Beach & Spa and Sand Castle on the Beach on St. Croix, as well as Frenchman’s Reef & Morning Star Marriott Beach Resort on St. Thomas. In recent years, Cuba gained increased attention from LGBTQ travelers in the United States, thanks to relaxed travel restrictions. Considering recent setbacks in U.S. government travel policies, however, organized tour groups are likely the best way to visit the Caribbean’s largest island — at least for Americans. Companies including Out Adventures and Zoom Vacations offer escorted LGBTQ tours of Cuba that focus on history, culture and other elements of Cuban society. Curaçao is an especially accessible destination for LGBTQ travelers. The Curaçao Tourist Board, in fact, is a member of IGLTA, while the website pinkcuracao.com offers LGBTQ travel tips. Aruba also offers a generally accepting environment. And, like San Juan in Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic’s capital city of Santo Domingo boasts a vibrant gay nightlife scene. One thing is for sure: You’ll never get bored in the Caribbean.
ISLAND TIME:
El Morro Fort in San Juan, Puerto Rico (top); Juan Dolio in the Dominican Republic (middle); and Gay Pride in San Juan, Puerto Rico (bottom) PHOTOS: © MARK CHESNUT/LATINFLYER.COM
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airport update
Leaps and Bounds Award-winning Incheon Airport continues to expand in style.
FOLLOWING THE 1988 SUMMER OLYMPICS in South Korea, international air traffic to Seoul increased so quickly the main airport at that time, Gimpo International Airport, couldn’t keep up. In 1992 construction began on what would become one of the world’s busiest and most highly awarded airports — one far more qualified to handle the heavy visitor influx for the 2018 Winter Olympic Games in PyeongChang. Opened in 2001, Incheon Airport built quite the reputation over the past 17 years. As the largest airport in South Korea, the main hub for airline giants Korean Air and Asiana Airlines and the primary airport serving the Seoul capital area, it’s among the busiest in the world. Not only does Incheon move more than 60 million passengers per year, but it also does so in style. One of the world’s most impressive airports, it boasts a golf course, spa, private sleeping rooms, an ice-skating rink, a casino, gardens and a Museum of Korean Culture, all under one expansive roof. Airports Council International named Incheon the Best Airport Worldwide every year since 2005, and in 2017 it was named Best Airport in Asia in Global Traveler’s GT Tested Reader Survey awards — and its successes don’t end there. Incheon is implementing its grand construction plan in four phases. Most recently completed, Phase Three saw the debut of the highly anticipated Terminal T2 in January. The impressive, 7.4 million-squarefoot terminal boasts a solar panel roof to reduce energy consumption; advanced technology including automatic boarding and helpful customer service robots; sculpture and art exhibition areas; indoor gardens, waterfalls and streams; new lounges, concessions and retail outlets; a transfer hotel; and an aircraft observation deck. After a brief rocky start to the terminal’s opening, including lost baggage and flight delays, everything is now on track. Airlines relocated to T2 include Korean Air, KLM, Delta Air Lines and Air France. Other SkyTeam members, including China Eastern Airlines, remain in Terminal 1 for the time being. In addition to the new terminal, Phase Three incorporated expansion of the existing cargo system and other infrastructure including parking and an extended railway line to the city center. The airport also signed an agreement to build a resort called Inspire to house 6-star hotels, theme parks and a casino. Phase Four is scheduled for completion in 2020, after which time the airport will boast two passenger terminals, four satellite concourses, 128 gates and five parallel runways. It will then be capable of handling 100 million passengers and will likely find a spot on the top 10 list of the world’s busiest airports by 2020. INCHEON AIRPORT airport.kr
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HIGH-TECH HUB:
OLED digital signage display at Incheon Airport PHOTO: © TEA | DREAMSTIME.COM
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BY NICOLE QUASTÉ
health
Keep Current Vaccinations protect you from contagious diseases while traveling abroad. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN
YOU MAY NOT THINK ABOUT diseases as you prepare for your next trip, but your health is at risk in many destinations. To stay safe, make sure you and your family are current on vaccinations. Each year, unvaccinated travelers become infected while in other countries, bringing the disease into the United States and spreading it to others. Six to eight weeks before any international trip, check the Travelers’ Health section of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention website for your destination, related health notices and vaccine recommendations or requirements. The CDC’s TravWell mobile app (free from Google Play and the App Store) also provides destination-specific vaccine recommendations, a travel preparation checklist and a customizable healthy travel packing list. See your health care provider or a travel doctor four to six weeks before travel to discuss where you will travel abroad. The TravWell app allows you to store travel documents, keep a record of medications and immunizations and set a reminder to get vaccine booster doses or take medications. Other key features include emergency service numbers for every destination and during-travel features accessible offline. The CDC divide travel vaccinations into three categories: routine, recommended and required. The only vaccine classified as required is the yellow fever vaccination for travel to certain countries in sub-Saharan Africa and tropical South America. Routine vaccinations are those normally administered during childhood in the United States and include diphtheria, tetanus, pertussis, measles, mumps, rubella, varicella, poliomyelitis, hepatitis B, hepatitis A, haemophilus influenzae type b, rotavirus, meningococcus, pneumococcus and human papillomavirus.
Make sure you are up to date on these vaccinations and do not require a booster. Recommended vaccinations protect travelers from illnesses seen in other parts of the world. Your health care provider or travel doctor can determine which vaccines are recommended based on your destination, where you will spend your time (rural versus urban), the season you are traveling, your age, your overall health status and your vaccination history. Travelers not vaccinated are at risk of contracting measles or pertussis (whooping cough). Outbreaks of these two diseases still occur in countries in Europe, Asia, Africa and the Pacific. Worldwide, about 20 million people get measles a year and about 146,000 people die from the disease. The majority of measles cases enter our country via unvaccinated U.S. residents. Last year’s large multistate outbreak of measles was likely caused by a traveler who got measles while abroad and then visited a California amusement park while infectious. Measles is highly contagious and spreads to others through coughing and sneezing. It is so contagious, 90 percent of people close to an infected person and not immune become infected. An infected person can also spread measles to others four days before the rash develops. The best way to protect yourself is vaccination. Pertussis is a contagious disease spread when infected people cough and sneeze near others. Early symptoms are similar to a cold and include runny nose, low fever, mild cough and a pause in breathing for babies. Later symptoms include fits of many rapid coughs followed by a high-pitched “whoop,” vomiting and exhaustion. Pertussis is serious for babies. Among babies younger than 1 year who get pertussis, more than half will be hospitalized and one in 100 will die.
Pertussis occurs in all countries, so all travelers are at risk. Pertussis rates are the highest in developing countries where few people are vaccinated. Babies too young to receive their first three pertussis shots are most at risk. Adults, even those who received pertussis vaccines as children, should be revaccinated with a one-time dose of Tdap vaccine. It is estimated 30–50 million people get pertussis and 300,000 people die from it each year worldwide. Influenza spreads rapidly throughout the world. The risk for exposure during travel depends on the time of year and destination. In the Northern Hemisphere, flu season begins as early as October and lasts until April or May. In the temperate regions of the Southern Hemisphere, influenza typically occurs April–September. In the tropics, influenza occurs throughout the year. In the Northern and Southern hemispheres, especially when traveling as part of large groups, such as on cruise ships, you can be exposed to influenza during months that fall outside those listed. Large groups can include people from areas of the world where influenza viruses are circulating. Everyone 6 months and older should get a flu vaccine yearly, preferably in the fall before the U.S. flu season begins. The flu vaccine given in the Northern Hemisphere usually protects against the main viruses that may circulate in other parts of the world. Check the CDC travel health notices for current health issues related to specific destinations so you can learn of disease outbreaks that may affect your health. Travel medicine clinics in the United Sates include the International Society of Travel Medicine and the American Society of Tropical Medicine and Hygiene, staffed with infectious disease specialists who may or may not practice travel medicine.
The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.
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EXPERIENCE AWARD-WINNING COMFORT AND WINES