August 2018 Global Traveler by Global Traveler

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August 2018

ALENTEJO p. 66 FLORENCE p. 52 FRANCE p. 72 NAPA VALLEY AND SONOMA p. 60 MENDOZA p. 64 SANTIAGO p. 68 STELLENBOSCH p. 76 WELLINGTON p. 62

THE WINE ISSUE GT presents the winners of the 15th annual Wines on the Wing airline wine competition. p. 36

letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com

INSPIRED BY WINE WELCOME TO OUR SECOND ANNUAL Wine Issue! While it’s only the second time we’ve done a themed wine issue, we celebrate our 15th annual Wines on the Wing airline wine competition on the following pages. As I’ve been part of the FXExpress Publications, Inc., team for nearly 12 years and I’ve assumed many roles over that time, I’ve been intimately involved with the wine survey — from assisting SWIRL AND SIP: Eunice Fried, our competition diKimberly Krol at a wine tasting rector, to coordinating wine delivPHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL ery with the airlines to collecting the judges’ forms at the tasting. I can tell you from experience the Wines on the Wing competition is a massive undertaking each year but one we continue to deliver because we know it’s all the amenities — like a quality Champagne to greet you on board or the perfect red to pair with your in-flight meal — that make or break a premium-class flight. We host the only blind tasting of this type on U.S. soil. Turn to page 36 for more on this year’s event, hosted by the iconic Pierre, A Taj Hotel, in New York City. I remember my first visit to The Pierre, A Taj Hotel. A colleague was staying at the luxury property, and I met her for a drink at Two E Bar & Lounge. Whether or not you’ve had a chance to personally visit, you know the property. Symbolic of the city and enjoying an enviable position across from Central Park, it appeared in numerous movies and television shows, from Trainwreck with Amy Schumer to M*A*S*H, Scent of a Woman, Grey Gardens and more. I enjoyed a tour of the hotel about a year ago and was in awe of the views of Central Park afforded by many of the guestrooms. If you’re looking for your next Manhattan hotel, look no further. We delve deeper into some of the world’s most famous wine-producing regions in this issue. Get a taste for the following destinations: Alentejo, Portugal; Québec Province in Canada; Wellington, New Zealand; Mendoza, Argentina; the grape harvest in France; Santiago, Chile; Florence, Italy; Stellenbosch, South Africa; and Napa Valley and Sonoma, Calif. Learn more about making any trip wine-related on page 44. Join us next month when we take a closer look at family travel with a special insert from our sister publication, whereverfamily.com. Until then, cheers!

Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ERICH J. MARTIN erich.martin@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Content Producer DEBRA BOKUR debra.bokur@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Editor at Large HOLLY RIDDLE holly.riddle@globaltravelerusa.com

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’s Uco Mendoza s many Valley ha es, and olive grov stings olive oil ta oducers at local pr t winery complemen d more ea R tours. doza on en M about page 64.

TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN, Director of Technology BOB HANCOCK, Director of Digital Advancement JARED TORGAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN

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AUGUST 2018

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FLIGHTS OF FANCY UNLIKE PARTS OF THE UNITED STATES where the weather is always lovely — like Southern California — here on the East Coast, where Global Traveler maintains its World Headquarters, we slowly gear down in August and transition into fall and winter. Before you know it, Labor Day will be here, marking the unofficial end of summer. I have lots of trips planned for August but hope to kick back at the end of the month and use our Wine Issue to find a crisp, cold white wine to go with my outdoor grilling. As we mark the 15th anniversary of the Wines on the Wing airline wine survey, Eunice Fried reminds me the winning wines this year have the highest recorded scores in the history of the competition. A competition it is, and I applaud the judges who participated, many for years, and the airlines that took that extra effort to make sure their wines arrived safely and on time for judging. Not every airline participates, and over the years I ON THE ROAD: gathered the reasons they decline. Here are the top 10 reasons Francis X. Gallagher traveling airlines decline to participate: PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER Some can’t stomach the chance they will not do well. Imagine all the marketing efforts spent on telling the world they have the best wine and food and then they do not rank. Some individuals fear for their position if they do not fare well. Airlines pay their wine experts a great deal, and, frankly, their positions can be determined by the outcome. Some airlines are so overburdened they find the gathering and shipping of the wine and the menus too much to handle. With too many tasks and not enough people, the competition slips through the cracks or is intentionally avoided. Some airlines downgraded their wines to save costs. Many have taken the opposite approach, but others still feel their wines are not competitive. Some feel they cannot trust our survey, that it is somehow slanted toward a particular carrier. We have actually heard one airline say the “wines did not travel well.” A few airlines are changing their wine selections and do not want to submit past offerings. Some carriers are unable to figure out how to pass the wines through U.S. customs, as their wines originate overseas. Other international carriers seem to have no trouble. Others feel their regional wines cannot compete with the best the French and the California vineyards produce. They suggest we have a regional division, creative menu awards and specialty wine sections. A small few change their wines so frequently they are unable to supply the corresponding menu required to verify the wine is served on board. So when you sip on board or read our ranking, remember all the hard work that went into securing the wine for this year’s 15th annual Wines on the Wing!

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contents

August 2018 36

FEATURES

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

36 Wines on the Wing 2018 GT presents the winners of the 15th annual Wines on the Wing airline wine competition.

52 Destination One: Florence Wine and luxury flourish alongside art and history in Florence.

44 Fruit of the Vine Destinations around the world woo wine lovers with tastings, tours and vinotherapy. 48 The Scenic Route Discover compelling locales for incentives and meetings in Québec.

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AUGUST 2018

ON THE COVER globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

August 2018

ALENTEJO p. 66 FLORENCE p. 52 FRANCE p. 72 NAPA VALLEY AND SONOMA p. 60 MENDOZA p. 64 SANTIAGO p. 68 STELLENBOSCH p. 76 WELLINGTON p. 62

60 Stateside: Napa Valley and Sonoma Napa and Sonoma serve up more than just great wine. 62 9–5: Wellington Wellington’s casual charm makes business a breeze. 64 After 5: Mendoza Indulge in nighttime wine tastings in Mendoza.

THE WINE ISSUE GT presents the winners of the 15th annual Wines on the Wing airline wine competition. p. 36

COVER PHOTO: GRAPE HARVEST PHOTO: © IGOR MOJZES | DREAMSTIME.COM

PHOTOS: © CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK, © BALONCICI | DREAMSTIME.COM, © JORDAN WINERY

contents

August 2018

LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

22 Technology 23 Wine & Spirits 24 Wealth 26 Tours 28 Spas 30 Golf 32 Chefs 33 Cruising 79 LGBTQ+ 81 Health

10 13 16 19

66 Neighborhoods: Alentejo Tour wine towns without the crowds in Alentejo, Portugal.

Mail Call News Reviews One on One Turkish Airlines Corporate Club 20 One on One SIGNIEL Seoul 80 Airport Update 82 Past & Present

68 Friends & Family: Santiago Chile’s capital city thrives as a hub for wine appreciation. 72 Bucket List: France Take part in the French grape harvest for an extraordinary wine experience. 76 Kicking Back: Stellenbosch Visit wine estates old and new in Stellenbosch.

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AUGUST 2018

FX E X P R E S S

P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2018 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

PHOTOS: © TIAGO CARAVANA, © ALAIN DOIRE / BOURGOGNE-FRANCHE-COMTÉ TOURISME, © LG, © THE SPA AT THE SANTA MARIA, © DELAIRE GRAFF ESTATE

mail call JUNE Q&A WITH KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF

Q&A WITH YASSER OGANDO, SALES PLANNER

In the June 2018 issue, editor in chief Kimberly Krol discussed GT’s Wellness Issue and how wellness travel is becoming an increasingly popular trend in the industry. This inspired the questions: How do you incorporate wellness into your travels, and what wellness initiatives have you encountered while traveling recently?

For Global Traveler, August is all about vino! This past May, I attended my first Wines on the Wing survey and had the chance to help monitor a panel of judges. It was interesting to see how much thought goes into judging these wines. After the judging, we were able to enjoy the wine at a lovely reception; the humidity and heat of that day called for something sparkling and refreshing. A couple of my colleagues and I went for a Raventos i Blanc de Nit (a rosé) for our first try, and I fell in love with it. I could taste hints of citrus but also an almost nutty flavor, like almonds. I stuck to sparkling for the night, but none compared to that Raventos. A week later I went out for dinner and requested this wine and paired it with steak — I know typically red meats are paired with red wine, but this was just amazing. This got me thinking: Do you choose your wine based on your mood or on your entrée choice?

A few readers wrote in with a response:

Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

often locally sourced. GREG ROBERTS, via email

areas of the Big Island, forcing thousands of people to evacuate. This caused a reader to write in: I’m going to Kailua soon. Should I be concerned?

ALLIE MATHEWS, via email

AMALIA ALTVARG, via email I like to get out and about while traveling and explore, not stay in the hotel room, so it is nice when my accommodations offer active excursions. If I want to get out and bike ride, hike or paddle board, I check with the concierge to see if the hotel offers anything like that, and I’ll usually take them up on it or their advice for local places to go.

BIG TROUBLE ON THE BIG ISLAND

ALEX HUTTON, via email

I’ve noticed a lot of improvements in dining options from the airplane to the hotel. Menus seem to be getting cleaner, greener and more

cooling trade winds everywhere in Hawai’i, and is exactly what travelers expect when coming here for a relaxing and fun vacation experience.”

In the May 16 eFlyer USA, we discussed the possible impact of Kilauea volcano in Hawai’i on travel plans. The eruption began May 3, causing lava to flow to residential

The distance from Kailua Kona to the active volcano is a few hundred miles, often with massive mountains in between, but check with your resort before your trip. In our last report on the subject in the May 30 eFlyer USA, Dr. Virginia Pressler, director, Hawai’i State Department of Health, asserted travelers should not worry about booking vacations: “The air quality for the vast majority of the Hawai’ian Islands is clean and healthy. The emissions from Kilauea volcano are a non-factor for Oahu, Maui, Molokai, Lanai and Kauai. The weather is beautiful and warm, with

THIS MONTH IN AVIATION In the June 22 This Month in Aviation with Harriet Baskas e-newsletter, Baskas discussed the high-profile airline snafus, from service animal regulations to aircraft malfunctions themselves, and how despite the headlines, customer satisfaction is actually on the rise. Join the Members section on globaltraveler usa.com to receive the monthly This Month in Aviation e-newsletter. While I am surprised customer satisfaction is on the rise, I do see airlines attempting to make up for recent bad press in their service and public apologies. JONATHAN REISS, via email

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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PHOTO: © VACCLAV | DREAMSTIME.COM

I recently stayed in New York for a week, training for a new program for work. My hotel room had a Peloton bike, and it was much easier to use than I expected. I actually used it every day of my trip, whereas if I only had the hotel gym available, I may have only worked out once or twice that week.

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BARRY WILLIAMS, Los Angeles, via email

I travel quite often and have mixed opinions about how airlines have treated negative press. While the corporations seem apologetic to recent issues, it’s difficult to believe the actual staff on board the aircraft will change. I guess only time will tell, but I believe pets should never be treated as cargo, and individuals need to be compensated for their time and distress when issues arise, including delays on the tarmac leaving passengers delayed for hours with little to no attention from the aircraft attendants. ROBERT DAVIS, Chicago, Ill.

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR In the May 2018 issue of Global Traveler, Kimberly Krol, editor in chief, discussed GT’s 200th issue and the questions answered by our staff, specifically the category of the 20 underrated cities you need to visit now. A few avid readers wrote in with some suggestions of their own: Underrated cities are becoming my go-to for family vacations, especially within the United States. Typically they’re a fun road trip or short flight away and more affordable once you get there. My top recommendation right now is Kansas City, Mo. My family and I went last summer, and the food was amazing every

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AUGUST 2018

place we went. There was actually quite a bit to do in the city, much more than I expected. BRIAN JACKSON, Atlanta, via email

CELEBRATING WELLNESS DAY In our June 9 eFlyer USA newsletter, we discussed fun ways to celebrate Global Wellness Day (June 9) and the importance of self-care on both small and large scales. A few ideas listed included not using plastic bottles, walking more, eating healthier and doing good deeds. A couple of readers wrote in with a comment: I would also recommend adding meditation to the list of ways to celebrate Global Wellness Day, every day. It’s an easy way to start the day thinking clearly or end the day on a calm note. JESSICA RAMSEN, via email Plastic bottles are such a problem, so thank you for mentioning them in your newsletter. I carry a reusable bottle everywhere I go. It’s so easy to travel with now that there are refill stations everywhere, and I feel better about minimizing my own footprint. It would be nice if this trend caught on with everyone. CARRIE FELDMAN, New York, via email

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

HANGZHOU

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE kicking back | COOK

ISLANDS

fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods. As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20. And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites. Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish. Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine. IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth. Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind andoffering soul ain is clean, crisp and refreshing, famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands. BY mouth. BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones. PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit. 72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Art of Healing

INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE A

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

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PHOTO: © PAUL GAUGUIN CRUISES

In the May 22 Publisher’s Picks newsletter, publisher and CEO Francis X. Gallagher listed Aeromexico, Paul Gauguin Cruises, Posadas and TAP Air Portugal as his monthly recommendations while providing updates, inspiring one reader to write in: I recently sailed with Paul Gauguin Cruises for the first time and have to say I was impressed. I cruised before with Royal Caribbean and Disney Cruise Line, but Paul Gauguin’s itinerary was great. The service, food and excursions were unbelievable, and we are actually looking into another one for next year.

news Summer-Only U.S.–Europe Routes

A bevy of new international routes are available for the summer travel season, most on offer through the early fall. Air France’s three weekly flights between Seattle (SEA) and Paris (CDG) will expand to five weekly flights for the summer season, while Aer Lingus’ service from Philadelphia (PHL) to Dublin (DUB) will increase to four flights per week. Norwegian’s famously low fares now allow travelers in Austin (AUS) to fly directly to London–Gatwick, the only non-stop option between the two cities. Norwegian also now connects Denver (DEN) with Paris’ Charles de Gaulle Airport twice per week. United Airlines travelers can fly non-stop from Washington, D.C. (IAD) to Edinburgh (EDI) and from San Francisco (SFO) to Zürich (ZRH), both on a daily basis through mid-fall. Travelers loyal to United also can fly from Newark (EWR) to Porto, Portugal (OPO), and Reykjavík (KEF), making it the only U.S. carrier to fly to Portugal’s second-most popular city. Finally, Californians’ journeys to Germany will be a lot easier thanks to Lufthansa’s seasonal flights between San Diego (SAN) and Frankfurt (FRA) and from Los Angeles (LAX) to Munich (MUC).

AMERICAN AIRLINES’ NEW FLAGSHIP EXPERIENCE Frequent flyers of American Airlines can enjoy the perks of the airline’s new Flagship program, which will cater to guests’ every travel-related need from check-in to baggage claim. After checking in, Flagship passengers will file through a separate security checkpoint, away from the airport’s general population, and head straight to the Flagship Lounge where food buffets, shower facilities and luggage storage await. Within select Flagship Lounges, guests will find restaurant-style Flagship First Dining areas where menus will feature local ingredients and specialty libations. Once on board, passengers who qualify as Flagship travelers have the option of high-quality cuisine from acclaimed chefs, lie-flat beds for long-haul flights, pillows and blankets from mattress company Casper and amenity kits from Cole Haan and C.O. Bigelow. Flagship facilities are currently open and operating at Chicago O’Hare International, Miami International, Los Angeles International, New York’s John F. Kennedy International and London Heathrow airports. aa.com

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KLM Orders JAMCO Business-Class Seats

Beginning in June 2019, KLM Royal Dutch Airlines will be the first airline to feature JAMCO seats on board. These business-class seats — also known as Venture seats — are manufactured by the Japanese international trade and logistics group. The seats will be lighter, lessening the amount of fuel the aircraft will need to consume and expend. They also will be arranged on board in a space-saving fishbone layout to maximize the number of seats and space for passenger comfort, and each will have direct access to the aisle. World Business Class passengers will still be able to lie flat in the seats and will have access to 18.5-inch TV screens and a “Do Not Disturb” button. Thirty-eight JAMCO seats will debut in models of KLM’s Boeing 787-10 planes. klm.com jamcointl.com

AUGUST 2018

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news Fully Recline in Business Class to Canada

For those who think the distance between the United States and Canada is too short for an adequate nap, everything is about to change now that Air Canada launched a new style of seating on border-crossing routes. Since June 1, travelers who book businessclass seats on Air Canada routes between the States and its neighbor to the north can fully recline and squeeze in a cat nap during flights of varying lengths. This new feature makes Air Canada the first North American airline to offer such seats on Canada-bound flights. These new seats are available on long-haul flights, including routes between Newark Liberty International Airport and Vancouver (YVR), and from Los Angeles International and San Francisco International airports to Toronto (YYZ). aircanada.com

Safety Features Coming to Uber

In an effort to reclaim and preserve its reputation as a safe and trustworthy ride-sharing app, Uber released a list of upcoming updates that focus specifically on safety. Passengers will be able to share their real-time trips with phone contacts through the “trusted contacts” setting, which can be programmed for all trips or specifically for nighttime trips. The alert will notify these contacts when the passenger arrived safely at the destination. Uber’s new “911 Assistance” function will connect passengers with emergency services in just two taps and will communicate the passenger’s nearest location to 911 operators. The ride-sharing company will also more closely vet drivers and vehicles by conducting extensive background checks and performing annual vehicle inspections for all vehicles, in addition to state-regulated inspections. uber.com

During the next decade (or two), Malaysia Airports Holdings will work to expand its airport in Kuala Lumpur (KUL), a venture officials hope will increase the airport’s capacity from 75 million to 150 million. The company foresees the next two years as an opportunity to analyze the parameters of expansion and the capability to accommodate the increasing number of travelers. By 2020 the country’s tourism board envisions welcoming up to 36 million passengers due to eased visa restrictions for travelers from China and India and overall increased air traffic in Southeast Asia and Asia Pacific.

Just steps from Roma’s millennia-old Pantheon, the new 5-star luxury Pantheon Iconic Rome Hotel opened in April, featuring 59 standard guestrooms and 20 suites, each uniquely designed. Guests can climb to the Divinity Terrace Lounge Bar on the roof of the hotel for 360-degree views of Rome or opt for a tasting menu in Dionysus Restaurant, led by Michelinstarred chef Pasquale Palamaro, a native of Naples. The hotel’s prime location puts guests just a short walk from the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps. Through the end of this month, standard rooms are available for special opening rates ranging $489–859.

malaysiaairports.com.my

thepantheonhotel.com

Malaysia Airport Expansion

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PHOTOS: © UBER, © BERNARD LIEU | DREAMSTIME.COM, © THE PANTHEON HOTEL

Pantheon Iconic Rome Hotel Opening

deals & rewards OneGo Offers Unlimited U.S. Flights

Citi / AAdvantage Platinum Changes

Whether you already have a Citi / AAdvantage Platinum Select World Elite MasterCard or you’re thinking of applying for one, the perks improved for both current and prospective members. Members who spend at least $20,000 in one year can earn a flight credit of $100, and daily purchases at restaurants and gas stations will credit members with two points per dollar. As of May, new members are eligible for a sign-up bonus of 60,000 points when they spend $3,000 in the first three months of membership, and they won’t have to start paying the annual membership fee of $99 until their second year. These new benefits add to the existing perks for members, especially for those who frequently fly with American Airlines. aa.com

PHOTOS: © AMERICAN AIRLINES, © CITI, © JOHANN68 | DREAMSTIME.COM

citi.com

WOW Air Expands to India

It’s been a few years since Iceland-based WOW air wowed the world with inexpensive flights between the United States and Europe, with the caveat of a short connec-

tion through the capital city of Reykjavík, and now the purple airline expands eastward. Beginning this December, WOW air will fly from nine cities in the United States to India starting at $199 per one-way journey. These basic seats only include bare-bones amenities. Passengers will pay extra fees to carry on or check a bag, to select a seat and to purchase an in-flight meal. Roundtrip flights will start at $398, and WOW Plus tickets (which allow guests to bring one personal item, one carry-on bag and to check a bag) will start in the low $600s for a round-trip ticket. As with other WOW air flights, the route will include a stopover in Reykjavík.

In the era of on-demand everything and countless subscription services, it’s as easy as downloading an app and paying a monthly fee for journeys on board an unlimited number of domestic flights. OneGo launched in February and since has marketed to business travelers. For one fee per month, app users can select preferences such as airlines and frequent destinations, and book a flight. OneGo prospective members must pay an initiation fee of $495, and the least expensive monthly plan starts at $1,500. Plans vary by geography from a specific region to the entire country. For access to more than 500 routes at 76 national airports, the monthly membership fee is almost $3,000. onego.com

Kimpton Password for a Free Gift

Travelers who book stays at Kimpton properties can mention a secret password upon check-in to receive a free gift just for arriving. As part of its Social Password summer promotion, guests who say “Out of Office” at the front desk will receive a small token of gratitude from the boutique brand of hotels. Past guests who used the password reported receiving gifts varying from Kimpton merchandise to free parking to possibly a room upgrade. The summer-only promotion remains valid until Sept. 3. ihg.com/kimptonhotels

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GT tested

SPIRIT RIDGE RESORT Reviewed by Angelique Platas

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

Guest Quarters: After a long day of traveling and a rich dinner at Mica, I was looking forward to retreating to my room. Located in the Desert building of the resort, my lake-view suite was more like a small apartment. Upon walking in, I passed a full kitchen on my left, bathroom to my right and walked straight through to the seating area complete with a television, electric fireplace and enough seating for a family of four. Out on the balcony I took a quick look around and headed back inside to the bedroom, which also included

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a fireplace and separate entrance to the bathroom. After passing out — almost immediately, I might add — on the plush king-sized bed, I woke up to the sun spilling in, as I had forgotten to close the blackout curtains. I stepped outside and realized the balcony was much larger than I thought the night before. It actually wrapped around from the living room area to the end of the bedroom with seating for five, a table and a grill. It even included an outdoor bathtub in the corner overlooking Osoyoos Lake. Services/Amenities: One thing I noticed about Spirit Ridge Resort was how inclusive it was. With Anarchist Mountain and Mica Canyon to one side, Osoyoos Lake on the other and vineyards encasing nearly the entire property, it’s hard to imagine guests wouldn’t want to get out and explore, but the resort offers enough activities and attractions to convince you otherwise. Between the Nk’Mip Cultural Center delving into the history and importance of the First Nations People and aboriginal heritage; hiking trails; Nk’Mip Cellars and on-site winery (the first aboriginal-owned vineyard in Canada); horseback riding; spa; 24-hour fitness centers; two pools (one for families and one for adults); the incredible restaurant, Mica — not to mention the easy access to the beach — amenities abound.

◆ A pet-friendly and family-friendly resort is welcome in such a wine-centric region, with plenty of activities for all ages. ◆ At the cultural center we experienced a smudging ceremony after an Okanagan band member sang the Okanagan song in the native language. ◆ The resort does everything in partnership with aboriginal bands and the First Nations People, from whom it sources local ingredients for food and whom it hires as ranchers and staff. SPIRIT RIDGE RESORT 1200 Rancher Creek Road Osoyoos, British Columbia Canada, V0H 1V6 tel 250 495 5445 spiritridge.hyatt.com

PHOTOS: © SPIRIT RIDGE RESORT

Arrival/Check-In: On my first trip to Canada, I was completely blown away with the view as I traveled from Kelowna to Osoyoos, British Columbia. The car ride lasted about two hours but felt far shorter, as I had my face glued to the window the entire ride. The endless mountain ranges, various lakes and lush green vineyards rolling by captivated me. Needless to say, the scenery was a calming reprieve. Passing by Osoyoos Lake, horseback riding trails and acres of vineyards, we officially arrived at our destination, Spirit Ridge Resort. After being happily greeted by the concierge, I introduced myself and received my room key and a map of the resort. In less than three minutes I was checked in, my bags were delivered to my room, and I was following the friendly staff to the on-site restaurant.

◆ Having visited vineyards in the past that prohibit guests from exploring the growing areas, I appreciated Spirit Ridge guests could walk through at leisure.

GT tested

TAMPA MARRIOTT WATERSIDE HOTEL & MARINA Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher

PHOTOS: © TAMPA MARRIOTT WATERSIDE HOTEL & MARINA, © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Arrival/Check-In: We flew from Philadelphia to Tampa’s efficient airport — I say this as it just created a rental car center which the local newspaper said was a disaster, but we found everything running smoothly. The elevated train takes passengers to the rental center in super-fast speed and comfort. It was just a short drive to the Marriott, where the many valet parking attendants stood ready to quickly and efficiently process us. The hotel has a massive lobby with palm trees in the center, and the building has been undergoing a $40 million multiphase renovation by its new owners, Strategic Property Partners. Frank, the bellman, took our bags, though we had little more than the basic carry-ons, and escorted us to registration. We were swiftly checked in, and Frank took us up to our high floor with its sweeping view of the marina. Frank helped us with local hot spots and restaurant venues. We decided to take the short walk across the bridge to Jackson’s for a cocktail and terrific dinner at the bar the first night. We had a busy next morning, so we were pleased to get settled. Guest Quarters: I recommend travelers who stay at the Marriott Tampa select a room far from the elevator shaft; elevators run all night and make a significant amount of noise, disrupting sleep. During our two-day stay, we moved farther down the hall and were satisfied. The rooms are basic; our standard room had two double beds with a set of drawers and a flat-screen TV along the opposing wall. The patio was superior, and Frank warned us about the 3-inch step-over to get out — he was right! Obviously, this was built to prevent wild Florida storms from spilling water into the rooms. The bathroom was nicely appointed with off-white marble from floor to ceiling. The shower was particularly strong and up to new standards. It occupied the entire length of the right side of the bathroom and had a glass door and panels. It was the high point of the room. The shower nozzle and the European hand sprayer were a plus. A host of amenities for guests included shampoos and lotions from the Thanann brand. Separate Aromatherapy shampoo and conditioner were complemented by body lotion and soap.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

Services/Amenities: The second night, we tried the Waterside Grill at the hotel and sat outside, enjoying the finish of a charity cancer run. Everyone was enthusiastic about their contributions, and it was fine entertainment as we ordered pre-dinner drinks. Anastasia was our charming server that evening, and the ribeye steak was far better than I expected and cooked perfectly. I started with a Caesar and kale salad that was tasty after our long day. We also quickly stopped at the main bar in the lobby, full to capacity. We secured two seats in the back and were entertained with the exploits of Ryan as he prepared our cocktails (he pours like a New Yorker). Overall, the property created a friendly atmosphere, and you cannot beat the “marina walk” for a nice run or stroll.

◆ The little yellow trolley cars are cute and stop right in front of the hotel — worthy of an excursion. ◆ Probably the most efficient parking attendants I’ve encountered ◆ Jackson’s and other fine restaurants are within an easy walk. TAMPA MARRIOTT WATERSIDE HOTEL & MARINA 700 S. Florida Ave. Tampa, FL 33602 tel 813 221 4900 marriott.com

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GT tested

SIXT RENT A CAR

The Car: I rented a beautiful, silver 2018 Cadillac ATS Sedan with great features. The first thing I noticed was it was clean and had that perfect new car smell. The sides of

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the seats curved up so it was also comfortable. One feature I did have to get used to was the vibration of the seat when you get close to another vehicle. Miami is known for its traffic, so I may have overworked this feature a bit. I was driving from Miami to Fort Lauderdale, and this car really made the ride easy to enjoy. Overall Experience: From the moment I landed to the moment I received my rental car, the process with Sixt was simple. At times of chaos (as at the airport), it is nice to know you are in good hands. Sixt made this a reality. The signs and directions to get to Sixt were crystal-clear; and once I was there, it couldn’t have been more convenient. Traveling for business or play, you never want to be late; renting this premium luxury vehicle not only helped me travel in style but also allowed me to travel with ease.

TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ The customer service! ◆ Speedy pick-up and drop-off ◆ Great selection of vehicles SIXT RENT A CAR sixt.com

PHOTO: © SIXT RENT A CAR

Pick-Up/Drop-Off: Anyone who has been to Miami International Airport knows how busy it can get. The last thing you want to do once you arrive is wait additional hours, minutes, even seconds for a rental car. Walking up to the Sixt rental counter was not what I expected: The staff immediately greeted me with a smile and offered me water. I was in line for no more than 15 minutes (there is also an express lane). I initially was taken care of by Marcia, who went over the paperwork quite clearly and promptly. Once I signed the contract and was ready to go, Stewart walked me to the elevator and guided me to pick up my rental.

one on one

MERT DORMAN Senior Vice President, Corporate Marketing & Distribution Channels, Turkish Airlines

more sophisticated in the identification and analysis of big data, it will be able to provide more customization focused on individual needs like never before. As an industry, we will be more creative in finding ways to personalize the flight experience to the specific needs of business travelers.

PHOTO: © TURKISH AIRLINES

Name: Mert Dorman Title: Senior vice president, corporate marketing & distribution channels Company, city: Turkish Airlines; İstanbul, Turkey Number of employees: 24,075 Recent project: Corporate Help Desk First job: Financial consultant, Aviva Life and Pensions Little-known fact about you: I graduated from Istanbul University with a bachelor’s degree in economics and hold a master’s degree in business administration from Marmara University. YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? The rapid evolution of customer-focused commercialization and technology paves the way for corporate travel management to evolve seriously. Companies that still handle travel management in a traditional manner must change now, and this substantial need will further manifest itself in the future. Living in the digital age means renovating all offered services and products by continuously evaluating them. Big data will change the way we analyze information to make smarter travel policy and buying decisions. Turkish Airlines Corporate Club is developing the ability to manage data to understand traveler preferences. As the world gets

Best career advice you’ve received: To have specific goals is, by far, the best advice I received. A specific goal is one of the great motivators for high achievers, along with a well-prepared schedule and discipline in achieving that goal. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Follow your passion and do what you love. It is not realistic to build a career in a role or industry you don’t love and look forward to every day. In the corporate travel sector, my advice is to think outside the box, take calculated risks, be prepared for unexpected problems so you can solve them in a calm manner and be open to continual education. Success in corporate travel opens a world of opportunity to widen your horizon and create a network of important connections locally and internationally while giving you the chance to see the world and explore different cultures. AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: My first trip across the Atlantic to the United States helped me realize air travel made the globe more connected. From that first business meeting in New York to exploring places in California I only thought I’d see in movies, the ease of travel from one side of the globe to the other inspired me to follow my passion for aviation and corporate travel. One travel tip you cannot live without: Book early and book often. Given the range of problems that can happen at any time, it pays to book travel arrangements as soon as possible and not leave anything to chance. Best advice for business travelers: Even a small issue while traveling has the potential to greatly impact business, so choose an airline you trust to consistently provide the most comfortable experience and reliable service. In a world where every second matters, travelers can’t afford mistakes, delays or other unexpected events and need a trusted partner with products and services that matter and a network that reliably gets them where they need to go. ABOUT YOUR BRAND What is the Turkish Airlines Corporate Club? The Turkish Airlines Corporate Club is one of the world’s most extensive corporate loyalty programs designed especially for passengers who travel for business. Our vision is to continually innovate with products and services that meet our customers’ expectations and needs. What benefits can travelers expect from membership in the Corporate Club? Our Corporate Club offers special benefits such as exclusive discount and baggage advantages, free cancellation, free upgrades and exclusive access to CIP Lounges with economy tickets. With free membership, travelers can increase their comfort and lower their expenditure without any annual commitment.

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one on one

MORTEN B. ANDERSEN General Manager, SIGNIEL Seoul

the hotel staff directly so they know who you are and what you expect. ABOUT YOUR BRAND The hotel’s location in Lotte World Tower offers stunning views from each guestroom. What other in-room amenities and services complement the views? We cannot depend on just the views, even though they are spectacular. Frequent visitors will come back for the service and the food and beverage options we offer. Our valet boxes are an excellent example of great service that, at the same time, allow our guests to retain their privacy.

Name: Morten B. Andersen Title: General manager Company, city: SIGNIEL Seoul Number of employees: 300 at SIGNIEL Seoul; 120,000 with Lotte Recent project: Opening of the L7 properties in various cities First job: Steward at a hotel, responsible for filling the minibars Little-known fact about you: I am a diverse music lover; I enjoy nearly every type of music. YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? I foresee artificial intelligence as an innovating and leading factor, with the proper investment. Best career advice you’ve received: You need to

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be better than everyone else; you need to go to the extremes to succeed. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Prepare yourself for amazing adventures; you can do whatever you want. Do your best to see the world. If you want to move up the ranks, you need to be dedicated. AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: I enjoy buying art from different countries. It brings back part of the destination and helps me reflect on and remember trips I took with my family. One travel tip you cannot live without: Pack a charger and an extra set of clothing. Best advice for business travelers: Book through hotel websites and indicate you are a frequent traveler or a business traveler. Communicate with

What can premium travelers expect from a visit to Evian Spa? How does the meeting and event space cater to MICE travelers? There are only three other Evian Spas, and they are selective about their location. We are lucky and honored to be a part of the sounds, sights and senses of water the Alps Evian brings to the SIGNIEL. Korean culture appreciates the beauty and relaxation the spa brings; half of those who utilize the spa are in-house guests, and the balance are locals. Located on the 76th floor, the Grand Ballroom — the highest in the world — works well for meetings and events. The cuisine for the banquets is Michelin star-rated, a true testament and honor. Many of the staff worked at other Lotte properties and are highly trained and regarded.

PHOTO: © SIGNIEL SEOUL

Tell our readers about the hotel’s dining options. Chef Yannick Alléno made STAY, Modern Restaurant the place to dine in Seoul; he and his team bring excitement and the innovation of French cuisine to STAY and the banquet facilities. Bicena offers guests a true culinary experience with traditional Korean dishes in a fine-dining setting. Our truly unique experience at SIGNIEL Club is offered only to SIGNIEL Suite guests and vetted locals, with dedicated restaurants, a bar and dining experiences on the 107th floor. Impress family or business associates with private fine Chinese dining under our star chef, Kyungok Yeo, in our custom nine-seat Sushi-Bar with tastings from a sushi master and views of the Han River.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Where Business Meets Benefits Join the Turkish Airlines Corporate Club and receive exclusive member benefits.

usiness travel, meet perks. With Turkish Airlines Corporate Club membership, corporate travelers enrolled in the exclusive program receive special perks and benefits. And, there’s nothing to pay and no commitments, making this a value-added program you should join today.

FRONT END DISCOUNTS As a member of Turkish Airlines Corporate Club, you will receive exclusive front end discounts on fares for to/beyond Turkey travel. There’s also the option to earn free tickets if you meet an annual flight quota and the opportunity to earn upgrades. BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE Ease worries about fitting all the necessities for your business trip as a Turkish Airlines Corporate Club member. Enjoy an enhanced baggage allowance on international flights.

FLEXIBILITY As all corporate travelers know, changes happen. As a member, you will have the flexibility to change flight routes and dates for all flights to/beyond Turkey. There is also no penalty for cancellation or no-show for almost all booking classes. TURKISH AIRLINES CORPORATE CLUB CARD With your membership card, you can checkin through business-class counters and gain access to lounges even when flying in economy. Additionally, you still earn miles in your Miles & Smiles frequent flyer account. Don’t hesitate. Find out more on how business meets benefits with the Turkish Airlines Corporate Club. Benefits vary by country. Apply today at https://corporateclub. turkishairlines.com/en-gb.

technology

SMART CHOICE Upgrade your daily activities with these cool tools. BY JACK GUY

BOSE LIFESTYLE 650 SYSTEM A good, quality home entertainment system can make all the difference when it comes to enjoying movies and sporting events. With surround sound provided by four speakers and a wireless subwoofer, this classy Bose system produces amazing sound quality that will make you feel immersed in the spectacle. It also boasts WiFi and Bluetooth connectivity, allowing for integration with a wide range of other devices in the home. $3,999.95. bose.com FRONTROW FR WEARABLE LIFESTYLE CAMERA Wearable cameras mean you can record anything you are doing, anywhere you are. The FrontRow comes with a lanyard plus a clothing clip and uses the data connection from your smartphone to live stream wherever you are. It can also record video you can transfer to your devices at a later date. Perfect for those who want to share with friends and family without walking around with their smartphone in hand at all times. $400. frontrow.com

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LG WATCH STYLE While many smart watches are styled like a piece of futuristic technology, this effort from LG packs fantastic features into a traditional package. It looks great on the wrist while offering the best the Android Wear platform has to offer. If you are after a sleek, professional smart watch that will have friends and colleagues asking where you got it, the LG Watch Style makes the smart choice. $150. lg.com

PHOTOS: BOSE, © NEKTECK, © LG, © FRONTROW

NEKTECK 4-PORT 72W USB WALL CHARGER Working on the road can be stressful, especially if a power source is hard to find. This wall charger boasts three USB-A ports and one USB-C port, so you can charge multiple devices from just one socket. With a 3-foot long USB-C cable and 4-foot power cord, it’s great for reaching distant sockets in airports, hotels and conference rooms, plus it’s USB-IF certified, so you know it won’t fry your devices. $35.99. nekteck.com

wine & spirits

VAST PASSION Sample the intriguing, indigenous wines of Portugal’s Alentejo. BY EUNICE FRIED

’ dade ge ‘Here a lar o t s al; refer rtug o P te in ya esta suall u s i ta’ ‘quin ate. r est e l l a sm

GROWING INTEREST:

Alentejo vineyard (left), wines at Heredade do Rocim (top), and wine barrels (bottom) PHOTO: © WINES OF ALENTEJO, © TIAGO CARAVANA, © WINES OF ALENTEJO

ALENTEJO FANS OUT EAST OF LISBON, an enormous arc of land covering nearly one-third of Portugal yet holding barely 7 percent of the country’s people. What it lacks in population, it more than makes up for in its wines and vineyards, its cheeses, hams, sausages, cork oak trees and the wheat that makes its memorable breads. And it is equally rich in archaeological finds, ancient towns and millennia-old wine methods. Two thousand years ago, the Romans, who had a long stay in what is now Portugal, made their wine in large clay amphorae. During a recent trip through Alentejo, I came across amphorae, both old and new, in a number of wineries and tasted wines being made in them today. Much of Alentejo’s wines are made from local indigenous grapes, producing wines with distinctive and intriguing tastes. Here are a few of the discoveries Alentejo offers. At Heredade do Rocim, a large, modern winery, I was especially impressed with its Touriga Nacional 2016 ($16). An indigenous grape, Touriga Nacional is the most prominent red grape in Portugal, and this wine represents many of the grape’s best features: deep color; a floral, fruity, spicy

aroma; excellent structure; and a long aftertaste. Rocim also impressed with its Olho de Mocho Reserva 2015 ($18), made primarily of Alicante Bouschet, as an elegant, smooth, balanced wine. The wines of Quinta do Quetzal are 70 percent reds, most made of indigenous grapes, often with a finishing touch of other European grapes. Its Guadalupe Winemaker’s Selection Vinho Tinto 2015 ($13), for example, combines Alicante Bouschet with a small amount of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Its Quetzal Reserva 2015 ($23) blends Alicante Bouschet, Syrah and Trincadeira for a dark-shaded, fullbodied and toasty wine. Heredade do Esporão offers, among many admirable wines, Esporão Reserva 2016 ($15), a white wine blend of Antão Vaz, Arinto and Roupeiro — rich and balanced with a citrus-like aroma. Esporão is also one of the Alentejo wineries now experimenting with wine produced in clay amphorae. Alentejo offers many more interesting wines worth tasting; we will talk about them in next month’s issue.

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wealth

ESTATE PLANNING: A HOLISTIC APPROACH may require an adjustment to the plan. When developing an estate plan, it is extremely important to know how assets are owned, or the title of the assets. The holistic approach — including determination of the current asset ownership, future appreciation/depreciation, income potential and so on — provides an attorney with the knowledge necessary to prepare the most comprehensive estate plan for a client. When identifying each component of a client’s taxable estate, the advisors not only gain a better picture of the estate today but also a better representation of the estate in the future when the documents will actually be utilized to settle it. Too often clients hire an attorney only to draft estate planning documents and fail to communicate this to their other advisors. Consequently, the attorney might rely on sparse information or recollection from the client about assets, how they are owned and their values. If the attorney develops an estate plan and prepares documents based on inaccuUTILIZING A HOLISTIC APPROACH to estate planning is critirate information, the result might run afoul of the client’s goals. cal, particularly when determining how property will be distributClients may not understand certain taxable assets or interests, such ed and the associated tax consequences. The role of advisors is to as holding a general power of appointment, having a qualified work in harmony with the client in order to understand the client’s terminable interest property or an incident of ownership in a testamentary objectives and what the client wants to accomplish life insurance policy. Worse, the client may not be aware of such with his or her wealth while alive. interests. By employing a team The holistic approach focuses approach, the attorney stands a on the importance of a thorough much greater chance of learning Too often clients hire an attorney review of each client asset: how it about the entirety of the client’s only to draft estate planning is owned, its cost basis, when the assets and circumstances. If this documents and fail to communicate asset will pass and to whom, how it does not occur, the result might will pass (by will or by operation of be disappointment or controversy this to their other advisors. law), what taxes are attributable to when beneficiaries discover certain such asset and who will pay the taxes heirs benefit in a disproportionate and with what money. Once these manner. facts are determined, a proper estate plan can be implemented. It is unfortunately common to see disastrous outcomes like this Additionally, the importance of an estate tax allocation provision when a holistic approach is not utilized in developing an estate cannot be overlooked if the estate plan is to best reflect the client’s plan. Professionals should be encouraged to communicate with desired intentions. each other — not just the client — when preparing any part of an A will only controls the distribution of so-called “probate estate plan. Clients are typically fee-conscientious and reluctant to assets.” If the client or attorney fails to include all the professionals get all of their advisors involved because they do not understand the client employs, the resulting estate plan can lead to unintended the significant added benefits they receive in the end. or even disastrous results. Attorneys, accountants and financial Next month we will discuss the difference between probate and advisors who stay in close communication after an estate plan is non-probate assets and the importance of estate tax allocation established are able to communicate changes in the client’s life that provisions.

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PHOTO: © EDWARD J BOCK 111 | DREAMSTIME.COM

Part one: Involve all advisors in the planning process.

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re here to get you there. Experience our best fleet ever at over 8,000 locations worldwide. hertz.com

tours

BEHIND THE LABEL The best wine tours uncover the fine art of winemaking. BY KRISTY ALPERT JUST AS A GOOD WINE CAN ENHANCE an experience within a destination, a good destination can help enhance the experience with a bottle of wine. Wine tourism is on the rise around the world, cultivating a passionate following of like-minded travelers looking to savor the true flavor of a region while gaining involved insight into the art that takes place behind the label. Wine tours are offered in some of the world’s most iconic wine regions including Tuscany in Italy, Burgundy and Champagne in France, the Napa and Willamette valleys in the United States and in the birthplace of wine, the Republic of Georgia. Guided wine tours can take visitors behind the scenes of their favorite wines or discover new flavors in a new region of the world by wandering through the vineyards, breathing in the scent of the local air and soil, and chatting or tasting alongside the winemakers themselves. Something remarkable happens when basking in the same sunshine that ripens the grapes while sipping the fruit of past vintages — bringing a deeper understanding of the complexities that take place within the glass. For one family in France’s renowned Burgundy region, bringing visitors behind the label often means delving deep into history. The Drouhin family has actively made wine since 1880, and today Maison Joseph Drouhin produces some of the world’s finest wines from its vineyards in France’s Burgundy region and Oregon’s Willamette Valley. “Joseph Drouhin is not just a name, it is a fourthgeneration family with passion dedicated to the region,” says Laurent Drouhin, director of the United States market, Maison Joseph Drouhin Wines. He notes the tours of the Burgundy estate are unique due to the history that lies beneath the ground. “[Touring our historic cellars] is the best way to get the feel of what we have been doing in Beaune for more than a century. … History through the walls gives another dimension to the wines, and visitors are able to realize that it is not simply a beverage but a wine that will tell you stories.” Many of the stories from the Drouhin estate include the four children’s experience growing up among the vines and cellars, where Veronique and Philippe would race along the barrel tracks in roller skates past vintages dating beyond their birth years. Other stories include how the cellars were used to support the nearby Hospice de Bellville during World War II. Today visitors trace the ancient passageways as they wind through the cellars and enter into the modern-day wine shop from a clandestine backdoor entrance. Wine tours aren’t limited to the vineyards themselves. Tour operators like Swedish-based BKWine Tours, U.K.-based Grape Escapes and U.S.-based Avalon Wine Tours specialize in wine tours in the best wine regions around the world. These operators offer more than itineraries of tasting appointments and instead bring guests along for wine-themed journeys, often elevated with luxury lodging, Michelin-starred dining experiences, private tastings, harvest experiences and more.

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SAVOR THE FLAVOR:

Maison Joseph Drouhin tour (top), and Santa Margherita wine tour (bottom) PHOTO:S © KRISTY ALPERT, © SANTA MARGHERITA

erita Margh urs a t n a to S ivate s like t inerie nge pr n craf a w e r e v r e a m y d l n So a a e t I k s li r ry in d cella c locations Wine ds an li r l a a y y d n e i i n r gs in of vi ines o llage. tastin rapev ote vi m e custom terraced g r y th nearb benea e in a m o h c i histor

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he new GT app is This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE

JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world. You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet. Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle. Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25). The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million. Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center. Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background. Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300. While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

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PAMPERED IN PANAMA Indulge in nourishing treatments at The Spa at The Santa Maria Hotel. BY KIMBERLY KROL

SWEET TREAT: Relaxation room (top), and chocolates (below) PHOTO: © THE SPA AT THE SANTA MARIA, © KIMBERLY KROL

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MY EXPERIENCE IN PANAMA came full circle as I lay on the massage table at The Spa at The Santa Maria in Panama City. As I snuggled into the plush bed and prepared for my 90-minute Cacao & Coffee Santa Maria treatment, I reflected on the fact that, just a day before, I’d spent my afternoon tasting both chocolate and coffee. Now I prepared to experience their therapeutic benefits in a decidedly different way. Opened in February 2018, The Santa Maria, a Luxury Collection Hotel & Golf Resort, epitomizes an urban resort. In addition to the 18-hole Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course, the hotel boasts a thoughtful design complemented by handmade items highlighting Panamanian culture, Mestizo and Ocean Prime dining outlets, an outdoor pool with city views, event space and, of course, the spa. As the culture of Panama is evident throughout the resort, so, too, it is incorporated into the spirit of the

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spa, where treatments blend indigenous Panamanian healing traditions and local ingredients. The spa offers a personalized experience for each guest. But before bliss could be achieved at the spa, a different sort of euphoria awaited in the form of a chocolate and a coffee tasting. It’s not an exaggeration to say Panama City’s Tropical Chocolate Café’s display cases held some of the most beautiful pieces of chocolate I’d ever seen. The café, located in a renovated mansion in the city’s Casco Viejo, is a tree-to-bar producer. The company owns a cacao plantation in Almirante, Bocas del Toro, and takes the product directly from the tree to the exquisite chocolates handmade and sold in the store. I sat down to sample an assortment of the decadent, handpainted treats, filled with fresh ingredients and fruits. My favorite was the pineapple. As I bit into the chocolate shell, I was greeted with a creamy, clean, fresh pineapple interior. After the tasting, I learned a bit more about the process as I

watched the shop’s two young chocolatiers create their unique confections. I couldn’t leave without a beautifully packaged box of the pineapple-flavored chocolate — the perfect gift for my mother’s upcoming birthday. Back at the resort, it was time to taste some coffee. The on-site coffee shop and deli, manned by coffee experts, serves the award-winning Panamanian Geisha coffee harvested in the highlands of Boquete. It was one of the three types I sampled; the varieties also included a Cuban coffee. Once again, I couldn’t leave without purchasing a Panamanian blend to take home. After tasting and indulging, it was time for the spa, where chocolate and coffee were highlighted in quite different ways. The cacao plant boasts vitamin C, magnesium, antioxidants, omega 6 fatty acids and a raw enzyme that helps to repair cells. It increases blood flow and improves the complexion. Coffee, as a rich source of antioxidants, is also good for your skin; it enhances circulation and makes skin smooth and bright. Besides tantalizing the taste buds, both also offer incredible benefits for your skin. With all of that said, the Cacao & Coffee Santa Maria spa option is a real treat. It began with an organic coconut oil massage; coconut oil is good for moisturizing the skin and preventing dryness. Next was a full-body coffee exfoliation. An obsidian stone is used to remove the scrub before the body is slathered in an organic cocoa mask and wrapped. As the antioxidants and nourishing attributes of the mask penetrated my skin, the therapist performed a relaxing head, neck and shoulder massage. If there is one thing I vividly remember from my treatment, it was the wonderful aroma that filled the room during each step. It wasn’t the pumped air smell of the spa and essential oils but rather the fresh smells of real ingredients. It brought back the memories of entering Tropical Chocolate Café and taking a deep breath, and swirling the smell of the coffee around my nose before each sip at the coffee tasting. The coconut oil almost gave the room a tropical vibe before the coffee grounds provided an energizing scent

to the space. And finally, the chocolate was a truly sweet finish, warming at the same time. For spa-goers looking for something a bit more indigenous to the country, the spa’s signature Espiritu Santo massage incorporates the attributes of Panama’s emblematic flower. The natural fragrance of the flower comes through in the oil used during the light-stroke massage. I left my trip with not only a fuller, deeper appreciation for the Panamanian culture but with one for the myriad benefits of chocolate and coffee. As if this girl needed even more excuses to indulge in either!

THERAPEUTIC BLEND:

Treatment room (top), and coffee scrub (bottom) PHOTOS: © THE SPA AT THE SANTA MARIA

The Santa Maria, a Luxury Collection Hotel & Golf Resort, Panama Santa Maria Boulevard Panama City, Panama tel 507 304 5555 santamariahotelpanama.com

AUGUST 2018

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golf

OUT OF THE ORDINARY Choose among three distinct courses at Michigan’s Bay Harbor Golf Club. BY DALE LEATHERMAN

GO WITH THE FLOW:

The Quarry Hole 5 PHOTO: © BAY HARBOR

I RECENTLY PLAYED GOLF in Northern Michigan for the first time. It certainly won’t be my last visit to the shores of Lake Michigan and the lovely Victorian towns around Little Traverse Bay, Lake Charlevoix and Walloon Lake (where Ernest Hemingway spent his first 22 summers). We stayed one night at the historic Stafford’s Perry Hotel in downtown Petoskey, overlooking Lake Michigan, and three nights at Boyne Highlands, a delightful family ski-golf resort with four impressive courses by Robert Trent Jones, Sr. and Arthur Hills. You’ll see it on lists of top destinations for golf buddy trips — and with good reason. The resort is part of the local Boyne Golf group: three resorts with 10 championship courses, three of which rank among the state’s top 10 public access tracks. The golf highlight of our trip came on our last day when we entered the gated community surrounding the elegant Inn at

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Bay Harbor (part of the Boyne group) and checked in at the Bay Harbor Golf Club on Little Traverse Bay. The resort is home to three diverse Arthur Hills nine-hole layouts — The Links, The Quarry and The Preserve. We chose to play the Links/Quarry combo, ranked among Golf Digest’s top 100 public courses. Bordered by waving grasses and marshy areas, The Links never strays far from the lake, and the views across the water are fantastic. After a couple of wooded holes, The Quarry plays around, into and out of a sprawling former shale quarry marked by stone cliffs, deep gorges and natural ponds. It’s a dramatic layout with some of the most unusual holes I’ve seen. Coupled with The Links, I can truly say no two holes of the 18 are alike — or ordinary. We did not play the third nine, The Preserve: wooded, natural and a haven for wildlife.

THE LINKS HOLE 3 | 380 yards, par 4

Faced with a split fairway off the tee, you can hit across the edge of a chasm to a lower, narrower fairway on the left (which offers a good angle to the green) or take the wider route straight ahead and face an aerial approach over a deep bunker to the shallow green.

HOLE 4 | 178 yards, par 3

While it’s ranked the second-easiest hole on the nine, from the back tees your ball flight is along the edge of a cliff. Missing the tiered waterfront green left or long lands you on the rocky beach. We were well ahead of pace, so we climbed down to the water’s edge to search for Petoskey stones, the state’s official rock, for which the area is known. The distinctive fossilized coral pieces are good souvenirs of a memorable round.

HOLE 7 | 500 yards, par 5

The wide fairway of The Links’ signature hole runs along a 150-foot bluff above the lake, culminating in a blind approach to a hilltop green.

HOLE 8 | 225 yards, par 3

One of the most wooded holes on this nine, the tricky downhill par 3 is surrounded by trees and features a plateau green with a false front and deep bunkers set into its left and front faces.

THE QUARRY HOLE 3 | 561 yards, par 5

The No. 1 handicap on this nine requires a well-placed second shot to the end of an elevated fairway followed by a carry over a boggy gully to a tabletop green. From the back tees, erring to the right means your ball is lost in a creek far below the fairway.

HOLE 4 | 435 yards, par 4

Foliage, rocks and a bunker on the right provide visual intimidation off the tee, but the fairway offers a decent landing area. The fairway doglegs slightly right to a green wedged between a pond and a deep bunker.

HOLE 5 | 495 yards, par 5

This super par 5 calls for a drive across an inland lake to a fairway doglegging left, narrowing and dropping down to a stream crossing to reach the shallow green. A rock wall backs the putting surface, and the lake lurks on the right. An educated hook off the tee is a valuable tool.

HOLE 6 | 332 yards, par 4

It’s easy to overshoot the dogleg to the left and have a bad lie against a scruffy hillside. Going too far right on your drive

lands you in wetlands. But being timid off the tee will leave you with a longish carry that might not hold on the green. It’s a target golf conundrum, for sure.

ARTFUL APPROACH:

HOLE 8 | 205 yards, par 3

Bay Harbor Golf Club 5800 Coastal Ridge Drive Bay Harbor, MI 49770 tel 231 439 4028 bayharborgolf.com

This downhill one-shotter backs up to the lake and is complicated by a pond and stone wall all across the front of the green, so there’s no forgiveness to be had for a shot short or long.

AUGUST 2018

The Quarry Hole 6

PHOTO: © BAY HARBOR

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chefs

TOP CHEF Chef David Burke oversees the culinary concepts at The Adelphi Hotel in Saratoga Springs. BY KIMBERLY KROL

WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR CULINARY CONCEPTS? Over the years, places like Paris and various areas of France, Italy, Singapore and Germany all inspired me. I am a firm believer all chefs should travel and experience as much as they possibly can. WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? My culinary heroes are chefs who think outside the box and are clever in their approach. Also, I admire chefs I personally trained who went on to greater successes, from Michelinstarred to owning successful businesses.

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AUGUST 2018

to discover new places with exciting cuisines, so I typically stay away from my favorites. I feel, to chefs, restaurants are like children, and it’s hard to pick your favorite.

WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE? My mentors are the people I worked with — Waldy Maloof, Charlie Palmer and Daniel Boulud, along with the great teachers I had at culinary school. I also appreciate the Paris restaurants I worked for, such as Trios Gros, Marc Meneau, Georges Black and the pastry training at École Lenôtre.

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? I think the next big trend will be reduction in protein portions on the plate, as well as the way we use the plate and the succession of the meal. I believe the drive will be more plates and portions of the same size as opposed to a range of appetizers, mains and desserts.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? If you asked me this five years ago, it would have been an easy decision, but now, since so many cities have great food, it really depends on what I’m looking for. However, being a chef means constantly looking

THE ADELPHI HOTEL 365 Broadway Saratoga Springs, NY 12866 tel 518 678 6000 theadelphihotel.com

PHOTOS: © THE ADELPHI HOTEL

YOU LIKELY RECOGNIZE Chef David Burke from your television screen, with his multiple appearances on shows including Top Chef Masters, Every Day with Rachael Ray and Today. Now there’s a new place where you can spot the famous chef: The Adelphi Hotel in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. Burke joined the hotel as culinary director, overseeing all the food and beverage operations including catering and in-room dining services. Enhanced menus that showcase Burke’s signature style, creativity, fascination with ingredients and revolutionary cooking techniques can be found at The Blue Hen, Morissey’s Lounge and the adjacent Salt & Char. Morissey’s Lounge, named for John Morissey, credited for bringing racing to Saratoga, features wood-fired pizzas and artful crudos complemented by local beer, craft cocktails and a quality wine list. At The Blue Hen, the focus is on warm hospitality; fine artisanal details; and local, sustainable ingredients. Salt & Char offers a refined take on the classic steakhouse concept. Burke also oversees the catering menu for Adelphi Hotel’s curated event spaces, including a 2,300-square-foot ballroom.

cruising

SIP AND SAIL Explore a winery in every port on a wine-themed cruise. BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER HOMER FIRST SANG OF THE WINE-DARK seas Odysseus cruised 3,000 years ago, and today’s cruise lines paint a similar picture with their expanding wine lists, onboard tastings and visits to local wineries. When world-class varietals and vintages become the focus of a specially themed wine cruise, so much the better. Fortunately for oenophiles, many top cruise lines host designated wine cruises featuring resident experts and regional winemakers who preside over workshops, tastings, wine dinners and shore excursions to rare or legendary vineyards. Here we uncork a few standout wine cruises for 2019. AmaWaterways’ Colors of Provence sevennight Lyon-to-Arles cruise aboard the AmaCello departs in March, April, August and November 2019. No cruise line conducts so many special wine cruises in Europe and the Mediterranean, and it does so in high style, with a resident wine expert on hand to handle tastings and cellar tours. This series of Rhone River cruises includes a Beaujolais excursion, wine and chocolate pairings at Château le Touron and wine tasting at Châteauneuf-du-Pape in Avignon, where a history lesson on the papacy goes down easily with sips of the Pope’s wines. SeaDream Yacht Club scheduled its Lisbon to Bordeaux nine-day Portugal and Spain cruise aboard SeaDream I June 27–July 6, 2019. SeaDream’s annual Wine Voyage Program includes nine special cruises in the Caribbean and Mediterranean. A wine director is on board, and regional wineries host tastings and supply wines for the executive chef ’s degustation menu at Winemakers’ Dinners. On the Lisbon to Bordeaux wine cruise, passengers sample the wines of Galicia and Rioja and red and white Port wines along Portugal’s Douro River at Oporto. Departing May 19, 2019, Silversea Cruises will lead its London to Barcelona 14-day cruise aboard Silver Whisper. A Wine Ambassador who presents special tastings and private vineyard tours directs Silversea’s wine cruise, focused on châteaux and cellars in Bordeaux and Médoc, with a wine tasting at the Bordeaux Wine Museum. UnCruise Adventures launches Rivers of Wine weeklong Portland, Ore., round-trip voyages on the Columbia River aboard the S.S. Legacy. These wine cruises set sail October through December, paying intimate visits to numerous small Northwest wineries where Pinot Noir put Oregon and Washington on the world wine map. A sommelier and local wine expert or winemaker are always on board, and winery tastings and lunches are a daily affair.

WINE ON THE WATERWAYS:

AmaWaterways’ Sandeman Wine Tasting in Douro, Portugal (above), and the AmaCello (left) PHOTOS: © AMAWATERWAYS

Passionate wine lovers can also transform some regular cruises into wine cruises by booking through winecruisegroup.com. Noted experts and winemakers who preside over private tastings, discussions, dinners and special small-group winery visits host these add-on programs. Choose from 18 such optional wine programs available in 2019 on itineraries spanning the Caribbean, the South Pacific (on Paul Gauguin Cruises), Greece (on Oceania Cruises) and even South Africa (on the 28-passenger Zambezi Queen).

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most e h t n Eve se e crui delux ced by an is enh ence es the pr owned en of a r er ak winem d aboar ivate pr and a our yt winer e. ashor

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2018 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

AIRLINE BEST

Overall Best Airline in the World_____________________________________________________ Airline Alliance________________________________________________________________________ Aircraft Type _________________________________________________________________________ Airline Website _______________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing Airline â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Trans-Pacific______________________________________________ Best Corporate Program for Business Travelers__________________________________ Best Airline for . . . Business Class___________________________________________________________________ International First Class_________________________________________________________ Domestic First Class_____________________________________________________________ Onboard Service ________________________________________________________________ Lounges _________________________________________________________________________ Flight Attendants________________________________________________________________ Flight Attendant Uniforms ______________________________________________________ Airline Cuisine___________________________________________________________________ Security__________________________________________________________________________ First-Class Seat Design_______________________________________________________________ Business-Class Seat Design _________________________________________________________ Best New Airline Service Launch_____________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Flyer Programs Overall Best Frequent-Flyer Program___________________________________________ Elite-Level Program______________________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion_______________________________________________________________ Award Redemption______________________________________________________________ Customer Service _______________________________________________________________

BEST AIRLINE BY LOCATION Best Airline in . . . Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Australia and New Zealand______________________________________________________ Central/South Asia and India __________________________________________________ China____________________________________________________________________________ Eastern Europe__________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________ Mexico___________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East _________________________________________________________________ North America___________________________________________________________________ North Asia (excluding China)____________________________________________________ The South Pacific________________________________________________________________ To South America and Central America_____________________________________________ To Japan______________________________________________________________________________ Trans-Atlantic Airline_________________________________________________________________ Trans-Pacific Airline__________________________________________________________________

AIRPORT BEST Overall Best Airport in the World____________________________________________________ Overall Best Duty-Free Shop in the World___________________________________________ Airport Staff/Gate Agents____________________________________________________________ Airport Dining________________________________________________________________________ Airport Shopping ____________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing U.S. Airport_________________________________________________________ Duty-Free Shops in . . . Asia______________________________________________________________________________ Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_________________________________________________________________ Best Airport in . . . Asia______________________________________________________________________________ Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_________________________________________________________________ North America___________________________________________________________________ South America___________________________________________________________________

HOTEL BEST

International Hotel Chain__________________________________________________________ Domestic Hotel Chain______________________________________________________________ Lifestyle Hotel______________________________________________________________________ MICE Hotel _________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) Hotel Club Floor____________________________________________________________________ Hotel Website______________________________________________________________________ New Luxury Hotel in Asia __________________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Stay Programs Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World___________________________________ Elite-Level Program____________________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion_____________________________________________________________ Award Redemption____________________________________________________________ Customer Service_____________________________________________________________

HOTEL BEST BY LOCATION Best Hotel in . . . Asia____________________________________________________________________________ Europe_________________________________________________________________________ South Korea___________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_______________________________________________________________ The United States _____________________________________________________________ Best Hotel Chain in . . . Asia____________________________________________________________________________ Europe_________________________________________________________________________ Latin America__________________________________________________________________ Mexico_________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_______________________________________________________________

OTHER BEST Overseas Delivery Program _______________________________________________________ Rental Car Company_______________________________________________________________ Tourism Destination_______________________________________________________________ MICE City ___________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) WiFi Service_________________________________________________________________________ Noise-Canceling Headset Brand___________________________________________________ Luggage Brand_____________________________________________________________________ Ride Share__________________________________________________________________________ Hotel App___________________________________________________________________________ Airline App__________________________________________________________________________ Credit Cards Best Overall Credit Card___________________________________________________________ Best Small-Business Credit Card __________________________________________________ Best Credit Card Special Events ___________________________________________________ Credit Card Rewards Program_____________________________________________________ Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card ________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card_________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card_______________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO: Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot Name Street Address City Home Phone

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Wines on the Wing 2018

GT presents the winners of the 15th annual Wines on the Wing airline wine competition. BY EUNICE FRIED | PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK

THE PIERRE HOTEL OPENED IN 1930, a handsome, light-shaded building on the corner of Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue and East 61st Street with sweeping views of Central Park. Eighty-eight years later, it remains one of the city’s most elegant and luxurious hotels. With its reputation for excellent care and distinguished service, it attracted such guests over the years as Audrey Hepburn, Coco Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint Laurent and Paul

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AUGUST 2018

Newman. And it has been the hotel of choice for scenes in several movies and television programs. Today, managed by Taj Hotels, this landmark hotel remains an oasis in the city, offering not only white glove service to guests but also dynamic food and beverage service, from cocktails to afternoon tea to French-American fare in its Perrine restaurant. With its strong emphasis on high-quality service, fine food and wine and with its handsome space, the blue and white Wedgewood Room, The Pierre offered the ideal setting for Global Traveler’s 15th annual Wines on the Wing Airline Wine Competition. To find the outstanding wines served on first-class and business-class international airline flights and, in a smaller category, wines served on first-class and business-class flights beginning and ending in North America, Global Traveler invited 23 judges, all wine professionals, to taste wines submitted by the airlines. The judges were served the wines blind, in numbered glasses and told only the general varietal they were tasting — Chenin Blanc or California Cabernet Sauvignon, for example. Seated in The Pierre’s Wedgewood Room, they swirled, sniffed, sipped and savored each wine. And then they wrote their impressions. When their decisions were later evaluated, the airline whose wines added up to the highest score among first-class international service, winning Best International First-Class Wines on the Wing, was All Nippon Airways.

A great honor, said Yutaka Ito, executive vice president, customer service and products services: “We have prepared a wide selection of fine wines from around the world to meet our customers’ needs and to complement our dishes. “And we are not confined by wine tradition. We are working to introduce new labels,” Mr. Ito added, “to give people a new wine experience. Our aim is to make ANA the best cellar in the skies.” And how are these wines chosen? By a committee of about 30 people led by esteemed chef/sommelier Olivier Poussier. In total, the public flying ANA enjoys approximately 50,000 bottles in first class and about 800,000 bottles in business class each year. Among airlines’ international business-class service, Delta Air Lines was the top scorer, awarded Best International Business-Class Wines on the Wing — an achievement touted by Lisa Bauer, vice president of onboard services. “We are proud to be the winner in this category. Our selection features a mix of recognizable brands and surprising selections from small, artisanal wineries. We take a seasonal approach, with a rotating wine menu to pair with our inflight meals.” Delta opens about 3 million bottles of wine each year, sourced from wineries in 15 countries across five continents chosen by Master Sommelier Andrea Robison, who tastes the wines both on the ground

and in the air. She also teaches flight attendants about wine through the airline’s Sky Sommelier program. British Airways came in a close second among the top first-class airlines and was one of the top scorers in international business class. Its individual wines won a place among top first-class sparkling wines and white wines, as well as among international business-class top white wines, an accomplishment that pleased Colin Talbot, head of catering. “British Airways works with wineries worldwide to ensure our customers can experience the best in fine wines on board. Particular attention is paid to meet the standard required in a wine destined to be enjoyed at 36,000 feet. Constant tasting high in the sky as well as on the ground allows BA to ensure the perfect wine is paired with the perfect dish.” The airline serves 350,000 bottles of wine in first class each year and 1.3 million bottles in business class. American Airlines did well overall, placing third among the top international first-class airlines. It also scored well in first-class sparklers, top white wines and red wines and as first among the Top Five Champagnes International Business Class. Overall, between first and business class, it opens approximately 1.2 million bottles of wine a year. To choose those wines, Master Sommelier Bobby Stuckey and Intervine review about a thousand wines every year.

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WINNERS’ CIRCLE TOP INTERNATIONAL FIRST-CLASS WINES ON THE WING 1. All Nippon Airways 2. British Airways 3. American Airlines 4. United Airlines TOP INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS-CLASS WINES ON THE WING 1. Delta Air Lines 2. United Airlines 3. All Nippon Airways 4. Brussels Airlines 5. British Airways TOP CHAMPAGNES AND SPARKLING WINES INTERNATIONAL FIRST CLASS 1. Krug Brut Champagne 2004 (All Nippon Airways) 2. Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle, Grande Cuvée Champagne, NV (American Airlines) 3. Carmel Valley Brut Reserve 2013, Cornwall, England (British Airways) TOP FIVE CHAMPAGNES INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS CLASS 1. Lanson Black Label Brut, NV (American Airlines) 2. Lanson Père et Fils Brut, NV (Aeroflot) 3. Duval-Leroy Brut Réserve, NV (All Nippon Airways) 4. Alfred Gratien Brut, NV (United Airlines) 5. Laurent-Perrier La Cuvée Brut, NV (Brussels Airlines)

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AUGUST 2018

And for the third consecutive year, American Airlines came in first among North American entries to win Best North American First Class/Business Class Wines on the Wing. It was followed by Delta in second place and United in third. All Nippon Airways submitted Krug Brut 2004, best of the Top Five Champagnes International First Class. In the Top Five Champagnes International Business Class, American Airlines’ Lanson Black Label Brut Champagne was the winner. The highest scorer in Top Five White Wines International First Class was Yatir Winery’s Viognier 2015, an Israeli wine submitted by EL AL Israel Airlines. Aeroflot won first place in Top Five White Wines Business Class with La Capra Chenin Blanc 2016 from South Africa. And American Airlines placed as Best North American White Wine with Joseph Drouhin Pouilly-Vinzelles 2015. American Airlines had the highest-scoring wine among the Top Five International First-Class Red Wines with Valduero Reserva 2012 from Ribera del Duero, Spain. In the Top Five International Business-Class Red Wines, United Airlines’ Les Gravières du Roy Sauvion 2016 placed first. And the top-scoring red among North American entries was California’s Raymond Cabernet

Sauvignon Reserve 2014, Napa Valley, entered by American Airlines. Of the airlines taking part in this year’s competition, 17 are members of airline alliances. The alliance whose member airlines scored the highest average this year is oneworld, represented by American Airlines, British Airways and LATAM. Aristophanes has been quoted as saying, “Bring me a beaker of wine so that I may say something clever.” No beakers at our competition, but we did bring our judges many glasses of wine. And in return, in their appraisals of those wines, they said many things clever. Wine does that.

WINNERS’ CIRCLE

JUDGES’ BIOS CESAR BAEZA is an oenologist and a consultant for the wine industry. A native of Chile, he studied winemaking there and in France, Spain and California and worked at several wineries. For 20 years he was wine master and co-owner of Brotherhood Winery in New York. BETH COTENOFF, DWS is a senior vice president at R/West and has 20 years’ experience in wine and spirits. She worked in Paris and with Sopexa/Food & Wines from France. She earned the WSET diploma in Wine & Spirits and is a certified wine instructor.

HOW WE JUDGE

To participate in Global Traveler’s competition, airlines throughout the world offering long-haul international first-class service and/or business-class service are invited to submit two white wines, two red wines and one Champagne or other sparkling wine currently on their wine lists, as well as the wine lists themselves. The same rules apply to our category of North American airlines that have first-class and/or business-class service. The wines are coded and divided into flights, or categories, according to their type. For example, all New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc submitted are served together, as are all California Cabernet Sauvignon. Wines are presented to judges in code-marked glasses. Judges are told only the type of wine and, when appropriate (vintage Champagne, for example), the year. If judges feel a wine is flawed, a reserve bottle is poured. Professional assistants pour the wines, and GT staff monitor the tasting. Each wine is judged on a modified Davis 20-point scale. The judges’ individual scores for each wine are added and averaged, and the averaged scores of an airline’s submissions are totaled. Individual wines with the highest scores and the airlines with the highest total scores win Wines on the Wing awards.

CARL ETCHEVERRY is a certified sommelier and the wine director of the Union League of Philadelphia. He built the Cellars Collection at the League, which won the USA Best City Club award three consecutive times. He is often a guest speaker at wine seminars and events. FRED FERRETTI is a wine and food writer whose articles appear in many national publications. Formerly a New York Times reporter, he was also for many years a columnist for Gourmet magazine. XAVIER FLOURET is owner of Cognac One, LLC., a national wine importer and New York wine wholesaler. The company focuses on sustainable and organic privately owned wine estates throughout the world that specialize in the best expressions of terroir and wine appellations. DAVID FRIESER is the fine-wine purchaser at Park Avenue Liquor Shop in Manhattan. He is a frequent wine lecturer and has been professionally involved with wine for more than 30 years. CURTIS GREEN is president and founder of TenFolk Enterprises, a wine education and marketing company created to broaden interest in wine among African Americans. He is also publisher of SlitelyChilled.com, the online magazine geared to the African-American wine drinker.

TOP FIVE WHITE WINES INTERNATIONAL FIRST CLASS 1. Yatir Winery Viognier 2015, Israel (EL AL Israel Airlines) 2. Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet, Les Combettes 2012 (British Airways) 3. Nielson by Byron Chardonnay 2015, California (All Nippon Airways) 4. Louis Latour Chassagne-Montrachet 2014, France (American Airlines) 5. Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc 2016, New Zealand (British Airways) TOP FIVE WHITE WINES INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS CLASS 1. La Capra Chenin Blanc 2016, South Africa (Aeroflot) 2. Oldenburg Vineyards Chardonnay 2016, South Africa (British Airways) 3. Waimea Pinot Gris 2016, New Zealand (British Airways) 4. Calera Chardonnay 2015, California (Delta Air Lines) 5. Domaine Thibault Pouilly-Fumé 2016, André Dezat et Fils, France (Brussels Airlines) TOP FIVE RED WINES INTERNATIONAL FIRST CLASS 1. Valduero Reserva 2012, Ribera del Duero, Spain (American Airlines) 2. Chassagne-Montrachet 2015, Morgeot, Louis Latour, Burgundy, France (All Nippon Airways) 3. Château Lynch-Moussas 2009, Bordeaux, France (British Airways) and Château Larose-Trintaudon 2015, Bordeaux, France (United Airlines) 4. Ken Wright Cellars Pinot Noir 2015, Oregon (United Airlines) 5. Shoresh 2016, Israel (EL AL Israel Airlines)

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FRANK JOHNSON is chairman and CEO of Frank Johnson Selections, an international wine brokerage firm. In his 40 years in wine, he has worked in various aspects of the business. He is also the author and editor of several wine publications. KAREN KING is director of on-premise development at Winebow, the wine-importing firm. She has been wine director at Union Square Café and beverage director at Gramercy Tavern and The Modern, all in New York, and taught wine at The French Culinary Institute. HARRIET LEMBECK is president of the Wine and Spirits Program where, for 34 years, she has taught consumers and wine trade personnel. She is the author of the 6th and 7th editions of Grossman’s Guide to Wine, Beer and Spirits and is a contributor to Beverage Dynamics magazine. ALICE LOUBATON is head of her own company, Loubaton Imports LLC., specializing in wines from small family estates in France. American-born, she worked in Paris for 10 years and, upon returning to New York, worked for 33 years with French wines and food at Sopexa. MICHAEL MANUPPELLI is chef sommelier of The River Café in Brooklyn. He is a certified sommelier through the American Sommelier Association. GILLES MARTIN is the winemaker and director of operations at Sparkling Pointe Winery on Long Island, N.Y., and a consultant to many other Long Island wineries. French-born, he studied winemaking at Montpelier and has worked at Roederer Estate and Delas Frères. DAVID MILLIGAN is president of David Milligan Selections, representing fine French producers.

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WINNERS’ CIRCLE

He has been in the wine trade for more than 30 years, beginning with his training in England. He also served as president of Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines. KATHERINE MOORE, FWS is general manager of Union Square Wine & Spirits, a large retail shop in Manhattan. JABULANI NTSHANGASE is an internationally renowned expert on South African wines and is one of three owners of Highberry, a winery in South Africa, where he is in charge of sales and marketing in Africa and the United States. ROMAN ROTH is the winemaker and part-owner of Wölffer Estate on New York’s Long Island. He has established a winery of his own, The Grapes of Roth, also on Long Island. Roman was born in Germany, where he received his degrees in oenology and viticulture. JUDY RUNDEL has been on the staff of Heights Chateau, a wine shop in Brooklyn Heights, for more than 20 years, where she takes part in wine buying decisions, coordinates the Wine of the Month Club and writes content for the shop’s website. She also conducts wine tastings and classes. ADAM SEGER, CCP, is corporate sommelier for iPic Entertain-

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ment as well as iPic’s executive bartender. A graduate of the Cornell Hotel School, he takes a chef’s approach to his work, earning acclaim for pioneering the garden-to-glass cocktail approach. DARRIN SIEGFRIED is president emeritus of the Sommelier Society of America and trained more than 1,800 wine captains in the past 25 years. WILLIAM SHORT is regional manager, New York, for Dreyfus Ashby & Co., a fine-wine importing company. At 35 years, he is the longest-tenured salesman in the company’s history. Before joining the wine field, he taught school for 10 years. TIM SOMERS worked in wine and spirits for 30 years and has been involved in startup wineries in California, North Carolina and China. He is currently vice president of commercial capabilities at Pernod Ricard and is a Certified Specialist of Wine: Society of Wine Educators. PAMELA WITTMANN is the principal of Millisime, Ltd., her 16-year-old public relations and marketing firm specializing in helping foreign wineries enter the U.S. market. She has degrees in oenology and in business and has worked in wineries and wine sales.

TOP FIVE RED WINES INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS CLASS 1. Les Gravières du Roy Sauvion 2016, France (United Airlines) 2. Le Comte de Malartic 2014, Bordeaux, France (Brussels Airlines) 3. Il Rosso dei Vespa Primitivo 2016, Italy (Alitalia) 4. Bocelli Sangiovese Rosso 2016, Italy (Alitala) 5. Lavau-Roasteau 2015, Rhône Valley, France (American Airlines) BEST NORTH AMERICAN FIRST CLASS/ BUSINESS CLASS WINES ON THE WING 1. American Airlines 2. Delta Air Lines 3. United Airlines 4. JetBlue Airways BEST NORTH AMERICAN CHAMPAGNE/ SPARKLING WINE 1. Raventós de Nit Brut 2015, Spain (JetBlue Airways) 2. Ca’ di Rajo, Italy (Delta Air Lines) and Ca’ di Rajo, Italy (United Airlines) 3. Lanson Black Label Brut, France (American Airlines) BEST NORTH AMERICAN RED WINE 1. Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Reserve Selection, Napa Valley, Calif. (American Airlines) 2. Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir 2015, Dundee Hills, Ore. (American Airlines) 3. Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Alexander Valley, Calif. (Delta Air Lines) 4. Château Villotte 2016, Bordeaux, France (United Airlines) 5. Clos de Nit 2016, Spain (United Airlines)

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If your travel passions include bringing your pet along, here’s Humphrey’s tried and true advice for traveling with man’s best friend: • National forests are a perfect pet-friendly destination, as they get you off the beaten path and into the backcountry. • There are many resources available to help travelers determine pet-friendly destinations. Many Marriott properties welcome your pets and some even include special guides for pet-friendly things to do in certain cities. • A few rules for traveling with your pet: Always carry extra bags to clean up messes; bring extra water; and be willing to fix it and make it right if your pet damages anything.

one program this month); and additional travel perks. Cardmembers can receive a 75,000-point new member offer; six points for every $1 spent at participating Marriott Rewards and SPG® hotels; two points on all other purchases; an anniversary free night award valued up to 35,000 points; guaranteed elite status; premium Wi-Fi and more. To celebrate the exciting launch, Chase and Marriott partnered with travel content creator and curator Theron Humphrey to inspire travelers to find their own passion and purpose. Humphrey is an expert in traveling with man’s best friend, a perfect complement to Marriott’s pet-friendly hotel policy. Humphrey and his dog Maddie have driven all over the United States, documenting their adventures on Instagram.

• Doggy travel essentials include a long rope leash; a folding silicone water bowl; and a good credit card, essential to earning points to keep traveling with your pooch. • Test your animal’s ability to travel with you by taking a weekend trip to a nearby state park or other locale. • Remember to be respectful of folks who may not love your dog as much as you do. • Utah, Colorado, California and Arizona all rank as pet-friendly states. With more than 6,500 properties in 127 different countries and territories and 29 brands, Marriott offers plenty of options for pursuing your travel passions. Learn more about the Marriott Rewards Premier Plus Credit Card at MarriottPremierPlus.com

AFTER PARTY GUESTS WINNERS’ CIRCLE 3

BEST NORTH AMERICAN WHITE WINE 1. Joseph Drouhin Pouilly-Vinzelles 2015, Mâcon, France (American Airlines) 2. Maison Bouachon Les Rabassières Blanc 2017, Côtes du Rhône, France (American Airlines) 3. Von Winning Riesling 2016, Trocken, Pfalz, Germany (JetBlue Airways) 4. Elegance Chardonnay 2016, France (United Airlines) 5. DeLille Cellars Chaleur Blanc 2015, Washington (Delta Air Lines)

BEST ALLIANCE WINES ON THE WING 1. oneworld 2. SkyTeam 3. Star Alliance

GUESTS: 1. Sheryl Stein, communications manager, EL AL Israel Airlines; Richard T. Evans, senior vice president, FXExpress Publications, Inc.

2. Eunice Fried, director, Wines on the Wing; Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, FXExpress Publications, Inc. 3. Kimberly Krol, editor in chief, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Samantha Coelho, sales and marketing, TAP Air Portugal; Fern Ottavio, director, passenger sales and marketing, TAP Air Portugal; Rose Ann Holewinski, finance and administrative manager, TAP Air Portugal 4. Mark Rizkowsky, member, Global Traveler’s Globility Board; Joe Cestaro, member, Global Traveler’s Globility Board 5. Jacob Taylor, account manager, Day One Agency; Jennifer Maguire, president, Jennifer Maguire Communications & PR 6. Julian Adler; Nikki Stein; Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Peter Steier; Jill Steier; Alexa Stein; Sheryl Stein, communications manager, EL AL Israel Airlines 7. Charlotte Pokoik, public relations associate, JG Black Book; Lindsey Sullivan, coordinator, public relations, JG Black Book; Richard T. Evans, senior vice president, FX Express Publications, Inc.; Natacha Tonissoo, director, public relations, JG Black Book; Ashley Richards, advertising manager, FX Express Publications, Inc. 8. Alp Ozaman, marketing manager, Turkish Airlines; Sermin Ozduran, director of Turkish Tourism Board, Turkish Culture & Tourism Organization

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A SPECIAL LONDON WEEKEND AND WIMBLEDON OPENING DAY! During a three-night stay at The Savoy Hotel in London cardmembers will witness the opening day of The Championships Wimbledon. The weekend begins on Saturday with a welcome dinner reception followed by a private double decker bus tour of London’s most iconic landmarks. On Sunday, guests are invited to enjoy afternoon high tea in The Savoy Hotel Thames Foyer and a private dinner and tour at The Tower of London. Then, on Monday, the first day of match play at Wimbledon, tennis-legend Stan Smith will host a private lunch prior to guests joining thousands of other tennis enthusiasts at Centre Court to watch iconic championship players in action.

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AN UNFORGETTABLE KENTUCKY DERBY® & BOURBON TRAIL WEEKEND! Cardmembers began their memorable weekend on Thursday with a welcome reception followed by the Taste of Derby™, a walk-around dinner and wine-tasting with celebrated chefs. On Friday, guests enjoyed a private tour and tasting at Buffalo Trace Distillery. Later in the evening all attended the Stitzel-Weller Affair presented by Blade and Bow Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey at the StitzelWeller Distillery. Then, on Saturday, guests dressed for the fanfare at Churchill Downs and witnessed the world famous 144th Running of the Kentucky Derby® presented by Woodford Reserve. From covered seats at the first turn, all enjoyed a historic day at the races.

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Fruit of the Vine Destinations around the world woo wine lovers with tastings, tours and vinotherapy. BY KATIE MCELVEEN IF IT SEEMS EVERYONE AROUND you is drinking wine, you’re not imagining it: In 2016, Americans sipped 790 million gallons of this ancient elixir, up from 330 million gallons in 1993. That surge in consumption also spurred an interest in wine-related travel that ranges from tours and cruises through winemaking regions to tastings, wine-pairing dinners and classes held by well-known sommeliers, winemakers and other experts. There are also wine-based treatments at spas, and in Bordeaux, France, La Cité du Vin, a museum devoted to all things wine, opened in 2016. Last year, 445,000 oenophiles visited the 144,000-square-foot museum, which also houses three restaurants, a tasting room, a theater and 19 interactive exhibits. And if you’ve ever wanted to play winemaker for a day, you can do that, too, at wine blending programs cropping up not just in wine-producing regions but in destinations all over the world. In Charleston, S.C., for example, guests at the Grand Bohemian

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Hotel can craft their own bottle; Bahama Barrels, which occupies a former convent in downtown Nassau, started a blending program in early 2018. Cruise lines, which delivered travelers to farflung wine-producing regions for decades, have been quick to add creative wine components to many of their journeys. Guests aboard AmaWaterways’ En-

BOTTLES AND BARRELS:

Wines from Zure Winery, Korčula (top), and Bahama Barrels blending class (bottom) PHOTOS: © WIND & WINE CROATIA, © BAHAMA BARRELS

ticing Douro cruise spend days sipping Port, Vinho Verde and other Portuguese wines at vineyards overlooking the Douro River; a highlight is dinner and a wine tasting at the quinta, or country home, of a local winemaking family. Uniworld’s Connoisseur Collection cruises offer exclusive food and wine programming — think lunch on a Burgundy estate with perfectly paired wines — on specific departures through France. Culturally curious travelers aboard Viking Cruise Line’s Empires of the Mediterranean adventure visit three boutique wineries in and around Santoríni, Greece, to taste varietals unique to the region. On its Piedmont and the Italian Lakes exploration, land-based tour company Trafalgar takes visitors off Italy’s beaten path with winefocused jaunts to less-visited Asti and Cherasco. Prefer to travel with your own small group? On six-day sailing trips along the coast of Croatia, guests of Wind & Wine Croatia explore islands such as Brač, Hvar, Vis and Korčula. Spend mornings hiking, swimming and snorkeling and afternoons and evenings on bespoke visits with local winemakers. “Based on the producer, we’ll do barrel or library tastings, food and wine pairings or a tasting dinner at the winery’s restaurant,” says Lizann Grupalo, cofounder, Wind & Wine Croatia. “With each passing year, Croatian wines garner more accolades and awards, yet they remain relatively undiscovered globally.” Verve, a Napa-based wine tour company, gives tours of this well-discovered wine region a twist with vineyard tours on horseback, classes in sabrage (the art of opening a bottle of bubbly with a saber) and the chance to explore tiny boutique wineries not open to the public. Laurence Vuillemin launched her French tour company, Paris-Toujours, in 2015; the company offers a variety of individual one- and multi-day wine-focused itineraries throughout France. A lifelong resident of Paris, Vuillemin formed a network of more than 50 partners; activities include a private introduction to the French wine regions in a prestigious cellar in the heart of Paris, wine and cheese pairing with a cheese master in a traditional fromagerie and even an experience comparing the aromatic similarities of perfume and wine. “Our goal is to be 100 percent authentic,” says Vuillemin. “In the regions, we work with local wine specialists that help the guests discover small producers and book accommodations that are strongly connected to the wine culture.” Wineries regularly open to the public also upped the ante, wooing wine lovers with gorgeous new spaces, inspired food pairings and extravagant excursions that go well beyond the tasting room. In Sonoma’s Alexander Valley, Jordan Winery expanded its portfolio to include vineyard hikes and estate tours with stops for food and wine, GREAT TASTES:

Grand Bohemian Hotel Charleston Wine Blending Room (top and middle left), and Jordan Winery outdoor wine and olive oil tasting PHOTOS: © GRAND BOHEMIAN CHARLESTON, © JORDAN WINERY

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PLEASANTLY PAIRED: Ram's Gate Palate Play

PHOTO: © RAM'S GATE

dinners at the French-style château and library tastings of its Bordeaux-style wines. Even better, club members can earn points to be used toward one-of-a-kind experiences like release dinners and a Champagne and caviar tasting — and even an overnight stay in a private apartment overlooking the nearly 1,200-acre estate. Although regulations don’t allow wineries in Sonoma County to operate restaurants on site, the owners of Ram’s Gate got around this pesky rule with Palate Play, a five-course set pairing that just happens to be large enough for lunch. It’s served in the winery’s stunning glass and dark-wood tasting room, perched on a bluff overlooking a lake. If you’d rather leave the driving to someone else, hop aboard

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AUGUST 2018

one of the wine trains that meander through some of the world’s prettiest vine-covered landscapes. The granddaddy of them all is probably the Napa Valley Wine Train, which began shuttling tourists to wineries along the 36-mile route between Napa and St. Helena in 1989. As riders flocked to the rails, the company added offerings such as a winemaker-led Meet the Maker ride and private after-hours tours. Another popular wine train is the Lavaux Express, which chugs through the steeply terraced vineyards overlooking Lake Geneva near Lausanne in Switzerland; aboard the hop-on/hop-off Franschhoek Wine Tram, sippers can visit eight wineries in South Africa’s Franschhoek Valley. Partnerships between hotels and wineries are another source of cool winery experiences. In Thailand, guests of The Peninsula Bangkok can board a helicopter on the hotel’s 37th floor bound for Hua Hin Hills Vineyard, where a team of elephants awaits to take them on a tour through the vines. Carmel Valley Ranch, in Carmel, Calif., holds weekly wine programming that includes an educational wine tasting experience with the resort’s sommelier and a fun winemaker challenge where small groups create their own wine and pitch its attributes to a potential “buyer.” At The Duniway Hotel in Portland, Ore., oenophiles who want to get their hands dirty spend a day in the fields at Stoller Family Estate that might include picking grapes, measuring ripening grapes for sugar levels and tasting grapes fresh from the crusher, followed by a harvest lunch overlooking the Dundee Hills. Situated in the northern reaches of California’s Santa Cruz Mountains, Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello Estate provides guests at The RitzCarlton, Half Moon Bay with a two-hour, exclusive private tasting experience that includes a tour of the vineyard, a five-wine flight and library pour of the acclaimed Monte Bello Cabernet. You can even take a wine tour in Myanmar, thanks to the Sanctum Inle Resort’s Wheel and Wine cycle excursion through sugar cane fields and tiny villages to Red Mountain Estate. In Mendoza, Argentina, you can’t get any closer to the vines than the Loft Suite at Entre Cielo: The futuristic — but plush — pod suite sits on stilts in the middle of the resort’s 35-acre vineyard. Wine-based treatments at spas are another popular way to enjoy the fruit of the vine. Made from fresh Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, the Pulp Friction massage at the acclaimed Les Sources Caudalie outside Bordeaux, France, smoothes and freshens skin; the spa also offers wine baths in converted barrels and other treatments. Malbec is the most widely grown grape in Argentina, and at the Cavas Wine Lodge outside Mendoza, the seeds are ground and used to exfoliate and clarify dry skin. Stateside, vinotherapy facials at Sonoma’s Kenwood Inn & Spa infuse skin with stress-reducing antioxidants. You can enjoy the therapeutic benefits of wine therapy at sea as well. In early 2018, MSC Cruises launched a partnership with Andrea Bocelli Wines and spa products company LAJATICA to curate eight different vinotherapy treatments in the MSC Aurea Spa aboard MSC Seaside.

mice | QUÉBEC

The Scenic Route Discover compelling locales for incentives and meetings in Québec. BY BECCA HENSLEY MEMORABLE MOMENTS:

(Left to right) Manoir Hovey, and Le Grand Lodge Mont-Tremblant's Salon Ouimet and corporate event cocktail/dinner in the Barn PHOTOS: © MANOIR HOVEY, © LE GRAND LODGE MONTTREMBLANT, © LE GRAND LODGE MONTTREMBLANT

WE WON’T TELL YOUR BOSS. But we know you’ve been gazing through the panoramic windows of Abenaki Hall at Manoir Hovey, a Relais & Châteaux stunner in Québec’s Eastern Townships, during your meeting. You can’t help yourself. No matter how compelling the speech at your conference, nobody could resist those idyllic views of glassy Massawippi Lake flanked by its grove of birch and pine trees. No doubt you’ve been dreaming, too, of those post-meeting bonding activities organized by the inn. While a lake cruise invites, you’re most excited by the chance to forage with the chef, then gather in his kitchen for a regional cooking class. Some of your colleagues will ride horses through the woods or pedal together with a guide on the area’s bevy of bike trails. Together, the entire conference will explore the Eastern Township’s stellar Wine Trail, sipping vintages with mom-and-pop winemakers, cheese makers and lavender growers along the way. You’ve heard

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in winter Manoir Hovey, a historic hotel with its main house built to mimic George Washington’s Mount Vernon, offers a slew of cold weather options, too, from sleigh rides to ice fishing. You hope your team can return then. After all, you’ve always wanted to beat your boss at curling. Southeastern Canada’s unique Québec province, with its distinct linguistic and cultural heritage, offers business travelers a world of variety. Its interaction of bucolic wilderness, Old World traditions and buzzy yet intimate cities provides a rich setting for meetings and conventions. Guests to Québec can tuck into the tiny, characteristic towns of the Eastern Townships, enjoy the cozy mountain hamlets of the Laurentians Region, be wowed by the jaw-dropping landscapes of the Charlevoix area, be charmed by regal Québec City and seek urbanity in edgy Montréal. Direct flights to Québec’s two main cities — Montréal and Québec City — convey conventioneers quickly to the region, often with minimal jet lag issues. A favorable exchange rate and plentiful opportunities to immerse in a plethora of special offerings (not to mention a chance to practice that high school French) add to Québec’s undeniable allure. Transported to another culture, business travelers can leave the office behind to enliven their workday minds in a fresh setting while renewing their vacation-longing spirits in a place that brims with new adventures. Below, find some of Québec’s essential highlights. Wine-loving meeting planners will want to base their crew in the gorgeous Eastern Township area, located just 20 minutes from Vermont’s border and a 90-minute drive from vibrant Montréal. A hilly smear of farm-filled land crisscrossed by narrow country roads and elevated

with otherworldly mountains on its verges, this sylvan territory boasts vineyards galore. They’re linked by the Brome-Missisquoi Wine Route, flowing around 90 miles to 22 wineries, including some of the oldest in Québec. The hospitable Manoir Hovey, with two classic, newly refurbished conference rooms, welcomes business groups as honored guests. Its lakeside location, terroir-led Le Hatley Restaurant and comfortable cottages ensure eternally memorable conclaves. The only walled city north of Mexico, Europeanintoned Québec City lords over the Saint Lawrence River. It evokes one of France’s hill towns with its patchwork of centuries-old buildings cascading amid cobbled streets and ancient nooks and crannies down to the water. Founded as New France, a fur trading post in 1608, the community keeps history alive as a UNESCO-listed site but embraces a world of stellar restaurants, trendy boutiques and upscale art galleries wedged into its ramparts. Convene at Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, the castle-like gem in the city’s crown. Conveniently occupying a prime spot in Old Town, its flexible meeting spaces range from hospitality suites to a splendid ballroom. It offers supported arrangements for groups from 12 to 700 and provides assistance for both on-site and off-premises incentive activities. Infectious joie de vivre defines Montréal, a UNESCOdesignated City of Design. Compact, bilingual, food- and

drink-obsessed, this metropolis is fueled by its ever-growing contemporary options, from music to eateries to museums. Blessed with a well-preserved, elegant Old Town edged by the Saint Lawrence River, Montréal offers open-air markets, stylish shopping, hip bars and 300 miles of bike trails. Immerse in the city’s old-meets-new fusion at newly opened Mount Stephen, a luxury boutique hotel, kitted out from a vintage Neoclassic mansion and a new-built, contemporary tower. The 6,500 square feet of event space encompass seven varied settings at the hotel, including two outdoor terraces for groups of any size. Find the mountainous Laurentian Region just 45 minutes from Montréal. It’s the home of Mont Tremblant, a wonderland in winter beloved by skiers and a summer playground ideal for outdoor buffs. Gather your company at Le Grand Lodge Mont-Tremblant, a four-season resort and conference center on the lake. With log architecture that channels the surrounding woods, the hotel sets up meetings in any of 14 banquet rooms as well as on three terraces. In winter participants can ski and snowmobile; in summer, hiking and biking beckon. Helicopter tours, zip lining and cruises on the lake go without saying. Not far from Québec City, accessible by train, the Charlevoix region wows with eye-popping terrain. Convene like nobility at Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu, a regal château hotel with upscale charms and myriad convention facilities.

UNIQUE VENUES The Brome-Missisquoi Wine Route, a well-organized wine region in the Eastern Townships, offers four driving routes, four biking routes, more than 30 restaurants and 22 wineries. Travel with your group through hills, valleys and picturesque villages of the region responsible for 60 percent of Québec’s wine production. laroutedesvins.ca/en A variety of superb museums in Québec City arrange after-hours party space. Consider Musée de la Civilisation, with a Grand Hall perfect for cocktail parties, or the chapel at Musée de l’Amérique Francophone for larger group banquets or ceremonies. mcq.org

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BUSINESS destinations

FLORENCE

NAPA VALLEY AND SONOMA

WELLINGTON

MENDOZA

PHOTOS: © DELAIRE GRAFF ESTATE, © CHAVALIT LIKITRATCHAROEN | DREAMSTIME.COM

LEISURE destinations

ALENTEJO

SANTIAGO

FRANCE

STELLENBOSCH

destination one | FLORENCE

Renaissance Soul Wine and luxury flourish alongside art and history in Florence. BY DEBRA BOKUR ICONIC ARCHITECTURE: Florence panorama PHOTO: © BALONCICI | DREAMSTIME .COM

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THE TUSCAN CAPITAL, FLORENCE, sits amid the second-largest wine-producing region in Italy, surrounded by vineyards brimming with heritage vines and world-caliber grapes. Pausing beneath the tawny evening sky — a glass of Chianti within reach — while listening to the river lap against the walls that hold it in place as it flows beneath the Ponte Vecchio is a singularly seductive experience. Though wine-based tourism is significant, more than vino keeps Florence afloat. More than 10 million visitors each year enter the city to

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drink in the staggered lines of terra-cotta roofs and elegant steeples and to immerse themselves in art, culinary offerings, history and culture. Yet a powerful synergy undeniably exists between wine tourism and the city’s luxury travel market, and tourism on all levels shows no signs of slowing. Expanding train service offers a route between the city and Florence City Airport, and further infrastructure development includes a new terminal and runway — all changes that will increase the city’s overall attraction for foreign investment in MICE (meet-

COMING AND GOING

For visits up to 90 days, U.S. citizens must hold a passport valid for at least six months beyond planned departure date and with two pages for entry stamp.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE Italian

ings, incentives, conferences and exhibitions). General Electric’s oil and gas division, Nuovo Pignone, already contributes greatly to the corporate travel market. “From a business point of view,” offers Valeriano Antonioli, CEO, Lungarno Collection, “there are many investment opportunities within Florence. The city is perfectly connected to three airports (Florence City Airport, Pisa and Bologna), along with a high-speed train system reaching Venezia, Milano and Rome in less than 90 minutes. There are also strong foundations for business development, both for luxury hotels and more affordable solutions, as well as residential developments.” Opinions differ regarding the effect of perceived political and economic instability in Italy on the luxury tourism market and competing sectors. Additionally, the European Tour Operators Association recently published a study on tourism growth in Florence revealing not all city residents are pleased about streets filled with guidebook-toting out-of-towners; a good many responded the increase in visitors makes it difficult for locals to live in and enjoy the city. “Tourism needs to be regulated. I think that there is a need of creating some rules and a system of laws to regulate and manage big tourism arrivals, preserving our amazing city from being damaged,” says Patrizio Cipollini, general manager, Four Seasons Firenze. “Museums need to be booked in advance in order to avoid

LODGING

and a stunning art collection with more than 450 works.

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL FIRENZE Renaissance opulence is alive and well at this palazzo-turned-city sanctuary, complete with garden, Michelin-starred restaurant and tranquil spa.

Borgo San Jacopo 14 $$$$$

Borgo Pinti 99 $$$$$ HOTEL LUNGARNO With décor suggestive of a luxury yacht, this plush property on the Ponte Vecchio features 65 rooms and suites

IL SALVIATINO On the edge of the city, this stunning villa’s organic vegetable and herb gardens fuel the kitchen. Room features include sections of exposed stone wall; outside, enjoy spectacular formal gardens and a destination spa complex. Via del Salviatino 21, Fiesole $$$$

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DINING LA DIVINA PIZZA If you’re swept with a pizza craving, this small pizzeria specializes in deep-dish Roman-style pie topped with local ingredients including figs, olives and artisan cheeses. Via Borgo Allegri 50R $$ PASTICCERIA NENCIONI You’re in Florence, so have some cake. This pastry shop-café serves local favorites, including fedora, a sweet orange cake encased in a thin, dark chocolate shell. It’s open for breakfast, too. Via Pietrapiana 24R $ TRATTORIA CAMMILLO Looking for atmosphere? This familyowned old-school gem specializes in classic Tuscan dishes in the Oltrarno neighborhood. Borgo San Jacopo 57R $$$

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huge and noisy queues, services need to be guaranteed on a high-quality level, taxis need to be found easily, infrastructure needs to be built, etc. I think that we can work to ask the institutions to invest in this direction in order to increase the city’s awareness [of these issues].” In Cipollini’s view, the addition of exceptional new businesses — some strongly connected to what he considers the artisanal soul of the city — along with new hotel openings, new attractions and new museums of quality are all important to the general awareness of Florence as a desirable destination. The wedding sector has also become extremely important. Cipollini explains Florence has become a destination wedding location, and he supports initiatives that include the DUCO Travel Summit, the first fair dedicated to Italian luxury tourism. The inaugural edition was held in Florence last March, bringing important tour operators from AngloSaxon countries, an event he says “gives to the city a wide resonance.”

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Florence’s luxury travel niche also experiences synergies with sectors including the fashion industry, with the legendary Pitti Fashion Fair bringing thousands of visitors to Florence and providing a venue for medium to large luxury textile producers. Antonioli points to the culinary market, currently undergoing a renaissance with the addition of seven Michelin-starred restaurants in the city center, along with the addition of some of the most prestigious wine cellars in Europe, including Enoteca Pinchiorri. “As opposed to some other touristic cities in Italy,” says Antonioli, who has lived in 12 cities around the world, including Los Angeles, St. Petersburg and Monaco, “[I feel] Florence, over the years, has maintained its integrity. It’s a real city, a hybrid of locals and travelers, and in my opinion this city represents the ideal location for a perfect lifestyle. Together with my family, I am in the city center and can walk or bike anywhere. I constantly find hidden treasures, enjoy museums, parks and monuments as if they were in my backyard.”

JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT +1 Phone code: Country code: 39 City code: 55 Currency: Euro Key industries: Tourism, food processing, machinery, chemicals, textiles, clothing, footwear, motor vehicles, iron and steel

TUSCAN HILLS:

INFO TO GO

CHECKING IN WITH MARIA CASSI

Actress, author, director; cofounder and artistic director, Teatro del Sale Florence’s past as an economic capital continues, though the economy shifted more toward tourism. As an artistic performer and native of Florence, do you feel the growth in tourism takes away from the rich culture of the city or adds another dimension? The world is changing, and for us tourism is fundamental. We must keep on making culture our point of reference. As an artist, I hope the world keeps visiting us. The city must develop culture, taking into consideration tourism is standardizing itself. Florence’s architectural beauty and long connection to the arts and great artists remain strong draws for visitors. Is the city still supportive of local artistic endeavors? My experience starts from my theater in Florence, [which has] expanded into Italy and other parts of the world. The Teatro del Sale is both a studio and culture club

where I conceive and produce my shows that I then bring on stage in Italy and abroad. I perform for two weeks per month and take care of the artistic schedule for 11 months. Since 2003 the members of this cultural association, by attending my shows, have made this place a sort of little West End. What do you most love about being an artist/ performer in Florence? I love this town; it has made me conscious of beauty, ethics, art and honesty. Being born in Florence has given me all this. My parents are Tuscan, and they have given me strong values typical of this land. What would you love to see happen within the city over the next few years? A larger broadmindedness, without being afraid of differences but having a clear picture of the strength the differences of culture and religion might give. I believe differences are nourishment and make us feel part of the world rather than part of a restricted community.

Both Florence City Airport (FLR), also called Aeroporto di Firenze-Peretola, and Pisa International Airport (PSA), also known as Galileo Galilei International Airport, serve Florence. Florence Airport lies approximately 3.7 miles from city center. An information desk located in the arrivals area is open daily 8:30 a.m.–6:30 p.m. A shuttle bus provides direct service to city center; travel time is roughly 20–25 minutes. Purchase tickets at newsstands in the airport or on board. Official white-colored taxis to city center have a fixed rate of €20 (about $23). Travelers should avoid cars bearing signs that say “NCC,” as these are not official taxis. Pisa International Airport is located approximately one hour from Florence city center. Bus shuttles and taxis are available along with a rail link from Pisa Central Station to Florence’s main city terminal. The Pisa Mover shuttle bus transports passengers from the airport to Pisa Central Station for the train to Florence.

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DIVERSIONS IN PRODUCTION: Bottles of Brunello di Montalcino (left), Sangiovese grapes on the vine (top right), and Vine Nobile di Montepulciano cellar PHOTOS: © SERBAN ENACHE | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ROLF52 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © FABIO MIGLIORUCCI | DREAMSTIME.COM

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Given the spectacular wines produced around Florence, planning a tour and tasting is a wonderful way to gain perspective on the love affair between the city and its regional grapes. The region surrounding Florence is particularly known for grapes that include Sangiovese, used in the production of Chianti; the famed Brunello di Montalcino; and the Prugnolo Gentile that forms the base of Nobile di Montepulciano. Wandering among them is dreamy, but don’t expect a typical California-style vineyard experience. Most vineyards are small-scale, family-run endeavors. Visits with a vinaiolo (winemaker) are more leisurely affairs that often involve traipsing across the hills between rows of vines and casual tastings that typically include a meal with selections that fully showcase the wine’s subtleties. Italy recognizes 154 official Wine Trails, marked with road signs and offering individual websites to help you plan a route for a self-guided tour. A private tour with a sommelier or knowledgeable wine guide is also a good option, as some of the best vineyards are located on smaller roads in rural areas that can be challenging to locate, especially if you have time constraints. Luxury tour operators that can customize a wine-centric expedition include Audley Travel, Charme & Adventure and Le Baccanti.

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stateside | NAPA VALLEY AND SONOMA

Wander Wine Country Napa and Sonoma serve up more than just great wine. BY KATIE SKRZEK

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LOCATED ABOUT 50 MILES OUTSIDE of San Francisco, Napa and Sonoma counties are known as prime wine destinations. However, both regions offer visitors ample opportunities for business and leisure activities. There is no shortage of recreational activities in Napa and Sonoma. In Sonoma County alone, the tourism industry generates more than $1.99 billion annually. There are more than 425 wineries, 40 spas, 500 restaurants and 20 golf courses in Sonoma County, perfect for off-site team-building activities or leisure visits. In addition to year-round activities, each month brings annual festivals including the Artisan Cheese Festival and the Sonoma County Harvest Fair.

“Tourism not only powers the economy every day; but as almost every relocation and business site selection begins with a visit, it’s an important tool for cultivating the area’s long-term future,” said Claudia Vecchio, president and CEO, Sonoma County Tourism. The tourism industry in Napa Valley employs more than 13,400 workers across hotel, retail, dining and other sectors. “The tourism industry continues to provide a significant positive impact to Napa Valley’s economy,” said Clay Gregory, president and CEO, Visit Napa Valley. “Strategically managed efforts have seen visitor spending increase 17.5 percent from 2014 to 2016, with only a 6.3 percent increase in visitors over the same two-year period.” In the fall of 2017, devastating wildfires ravaged California, including the Napa and Sonoma county regions. Following recovery efforts, the area welcomed back visitors within about six months.

GROWING TOURISM:

Hot air balloon over wine country in Napa Valley (left), and a winery in Sonoma (right) PHOTOS: © MICHAEL WARWICK | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ALEXANDRE FAGUNDES DE FAGUNDES | DREAMSTIME.COM

SCENIC DRIVES

Travel about 80 miles south along California’s coast to Point Reyes National Seashore. The protected coastline boasts rocky headlands, sandy beaches, grasslands and hillsides. Expect to see wildlife including harbor seals and snowy plovers. Make your way to the Point Reyes Lighthouse for an ideal vantage point to watch migrating whales. nps.gov/pore Berkeley, situated on the east side of San Francisco Bay, is known in part as home to the University of California, Berkeley campus. You’ll find plenty of outdoor activities and cultural experiences to take in during your visit, from Tilden Park to the Berkeley Art Museum & Pacific Film Archive. The city is also known for its budding culinary scene.

Several airports service the Napa Valley area: San Francisco International Airport, San José International Airport, Sacramento International Airport and Oakland International Airport. Travel time to/from each airport is about an hour and a half to two hours, depending on traffic. Travelers can also fly into Charles M. SchulzSonoma County Airport, where there is service from Los Angeles (LAX), Phoenix (PHX), Portland (PDX), San Diego (SAN), San Francisco (SFO) and Seattle (SEA). Sonoma County is also less than a two-hour drive from San Francisco, Oakland and Sacramento airports. Due to general increased popularity of the region, the county airport offers new routes often. To accommodate growing tourism, new and refurbished properties are cropping up. Look for new hotel openings in 2018 and 2019 throughout the region. Four Seasons Resort & Residences Napa Valley is set to debut in 2019. Recent openings for 2018 include The Francis House in Calistoga and Harmon Guest House in Healdsburg. Existing properties undergo renovations to keep up with the new openings. Bodega Bay Lodge on the Sonoma

Coast saw renovations in 2017. The property at Indian Springs Calistoga expanded in 2015. Venues look to sustainability and work toward green initiatives. Hotel Healdsburg and h2hotel, sister properties to Harmon Guest House in Sonoma County, feature environmentally friendly elements including electric car charging stations. Cakebread Cellars in Napa recently received the 2018 California Green Medal Award for Business. The award recognizes leadership of wineries and vineyards committed to sustainability through efficiencies, cost savings and innovation. Throughout the region, venues offer opportunities for meeting planners looking for intimate team-building activities or large meeting spaces. From hotels to wineries, there are spaces for every type of event. Visitors can take part in culinary classes, outdoor adventures and — of course — wine tours. Wineries, restaurants, hotels, museums and galleries offer meeting space opportunities. For some, a meal at the iconic restaurant The French Laundry in Napa Valley is worth the trip alone.

visitberkeley.com Many visitors will likely fly in and out of San Francisco (SFO), so carve out some time to explore the Golden Gate National Recreation Area before or after your stay. Located in the San Francisco Bay Area, the U.S. National Recreation Area sits on about 82,000 acres of land. The park is home to 19 distinct ecosystems and more than 2,000 animal and plant species. There is plenty to see and do, whether you have a few hours or the entire day. Be sure to take some photos with the Golden Gate Bridge in the background. nps.gov/goga

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9–5 | WELLINGTON

Capital of Cool Wellington’s casual charm makes business a breeze. BY ELLEN CLARK HEAD OF STATE:

WINDY, WALKABLE WELLINGTON, New Zealand, has to be one of the most laid-back and unpretentious capital cities anywhere. Its casual friendliness and relaxed attitude embody trust and make doing business here a real pleasure. Just about picture-perfect, Wellington sits on the shores of a deep harbor surrounded by a natural amphitheater of wooded hills. But they’re not kidding when they call it Windy Wellington, thanks to its position on Cook Strait, a passage between New Zealand’s north and south islands. While the locals take a certain quirky pride in the wind, visitors might want to pack a windbreaker. On the plus side, air pollution is nonexistent, as any fumes are whipped away, and wind power is harnessed

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for electricity thanks to the 62 turbines set on the surrounding hills, making the air so clean the city fairly sparkles. Though New Zealand’s business culture still echoes its British roots — it is formal, reserved and conservative — you’ll find the South Pacific warmth and friendliness create a relaxed yet professional atmosphere founded on egalitarianism. Business etiquette tends toward forthrightness, honesty and hard work. Greetings generally consist of a handshake, smile and direct eye contact. And women are treated as equals in the New Zealand workplace, often rising to senior corporate positions. Business dress is eclectic and often depends on the industry. Formal business settings favor the traditional dark suits while the more creative crowd leans toward relaxed attire. Although the general approach to management in New Zealand is hierarchical, with decisions made by senior-level executives, the ideas, input and collaboration from all members of the organization are also highly valued. At the same time, while most New Zealanders shun formal titles, it’s a good idea for business visitors to use these until instructed otherwise. Besides Wellington’s more traditional service-based economy — including finance, business services and government — the city thrives as the center of New Zealand’s film and special effects industries. As one of New Zealand’s major seaports, Wellington is also big in domestic and international shipping. Wellington’s central city, at slightly less than 1.5 miles in diameter, makes it possible to walk from one side to the other in about 20 minutes. But Metlink can

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also get you anywhere within the city using buses, trains or ferries. It’s worth stopping by the Wellington i-SITE Visitor Information Centre to pick up an easy-to-use journey planner and a Snapper card, offering a cheaper and faster way to pay. Taxis are plentiful and readily available. Wellington claims to have more bars and restaurants per capita than New York City. With rich farmland to the north and the ocean’s bounty to the south — and a location tucked between the country’s finest wine regions — it boasts some spectacularly good eateries. When business ends, consider a visit to the nearby wine regions, and be sure to sample the product while in Wellington. Known for both its craft beers and coffee, a wealth of choices for business meetings includes a full meal or just a fast espresso. For the hip and happening and a plethora of options for that business lunch or breakfast, head to Cuba Street. Loretta offers an award-winning modern décor and far-from-ordinary food, along with a good list of wines available by the glass or bottle. Open Tuesday through Sunday, intriguing treats include open-faced broccoli, feta, sunflower and pumpkin seed sandwiches and date, banana, cashew and chocolate coconut milk smoothies. Quirky and fun Fidel’s Café calls itself “a bohemian bastion on upper Cuba Street,” serving food and drink amid a fabulously eclectic décor for more than 20 years. Wellington’s waterfront offers a beautifully walkable public space dotted with cafés, parks, sculptures, bars and ice cream vendors. It makes for a primo spot for a casual business meeting. If the weather is fine, grab a gourmet coffee and hang out for a bit at Frank Kitts Park. The Museum of New Zealand, or Te Papa Tongarewa, charges no entrance fee and offers a fascinating look into this diverse country. Collection areas cover Taonga Māori, Pacific cultures, history, photography, art, botany and zoology. But perhaps its most bizarre attraction is the world’s largest specimen of the rare colossal squid, weighing in at more than 1,000 pounds. One of the city’s most iconic sights you won’t want to miss is the bright red Wellington Cable Car. The vehicular rail runs from Lambton Quay up to Kelburn, guaranteeing some of the best views of Wellington. If there’s time, a visit to Zealandia Wildlife Sanctuary offers a look into the country’s flora and fauna, including 40 species of birds, dozens of reptiles and hundreds of plants. Volunteer guides help make the most of your visit. The Lord of the Rings aficionados won’t want to miss a behind-the-scenes glimpse into the imagination and artistry behind some of the world’s most spectacular movies at the Weta Cave mini museum, right where the special effects wizardry happens.

PERSPECTIVES:

Solace of the Wind statue overlooking Wellington Harbour (top), view of the city (middle), and the Wellington Cable Car PHOTOS: © ELLEN CLARK

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after 5 | MENDOZA

Enchanted Evenings Indulge in nighttime wine tasting in Mendoza. BY RON BERNTHAL

FOOD AND WINE:

Sunset wine and cheese party (left), María Antonieta restaurant (top right), and Uvas Lounge & Bar at Park Hyatt Mendoza (right) PHOTOS: © MENDOZA TURISMO, © MARÍA ANTONIETA, © PARK HYATT MENDOZA

ntina Arge ost the m s a h e nsiv exte of tings plan ec in Malb . orld the w

MENDOZA LIES ABOUT 600 MILES west of Buenos Aires, and the two cities could not be more different. Buenos Aires, a major port city, bustles with dozens of diverse neighborhoods. Mendoza, at almost 3,000 feet elevation, rests in the foothills of the Andes, a popular stopover for climbers on their way to 23,000-foot Mount Aconcagua, the tallest mountain in the Western and Southern hemispheres. The scenic region around Mendoza is also the largest wineproducing area in South America, with more than 1,500 wineries and many vineyards planted with Malbec. Grapes here grow at high altitude in intense sunlight and cold nights. Although visiting Mendoza’s wineries along Argentina’s Wine Route, like Bodegas Salentein and O. Fournier, is a daytime activity, evenings are as delightful. Returning to Mendoza after a day of wine touring or hiking in the beautiful Uco Valley, you will find several deluxe hotels and sophisticated wine bars and restaurants. In late afternoon or early evening, stop at Bodegas CARO, 15 minutes’ drive from city center. It’s the only winery to offer tastings in the evening, which this year include three wines from the latest harvest: Aruma, Petit CARO and CARO. French and Argentine cheeses accompany the tasting; reservations are required. Located downtown on the historic Plaza Independencia, the 186-room Park Hyatt Mendoza Hotel, Casino & Spa is the city’s first 5-star hotel. The property’s Bistro M, serving Italian cuisine, and the Grill Q – Parilla Argentina offer perfect venues for a busi-

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ness dinner. Consider Uvas Lounge & Bar for drinks and snacks. The spa’s extensive vinotherapy treatments use grapes and grape seeds and skins to rejuvenate the body. Filled with locals as well as visitors, the casual restaurant María Antonieta lies a short walk from downtown hotels. Chef/owner Vanina Chimeno offers braised endives and grilled shrimp with new potatoes, or oriecheti pasta with smoked salmon. Her mentor and husband, Argentina’s celebrity chef Francis Mallmann, was a participant on Chef ’s Table. Mallmann’s own restaurant, 1884 (next to Bodegas CARO), offers food cooked over wood fires and in clay ovens. Set in an old vineyard established in 1884, it features elegant indoor and candle-lit outdoor dining. The wine cellar boasts more than 12,000 bottles, resulting in a 75-page wine list. After dinner, check out the Sheraton Mendoza Hotel’s Devas Bar, serving snacks and local wines until 2 a.m., a relatively early hour in Argentina, where dinners start at 9 p.m. A small but vibrant LGBTQ+ community exists, with Queen Disco the most popular gay hangout in Mendoza. Playing the latest Latino pop and techno music, it is open weekends 11 p.m. until late. Wine tourism in Mendoza is changing rapidly as more travelers discover Argentina beyond Buenos Aires. Businesses based around wine — from smaller bodegas and rustic accommodations in the countryside to tasting rooms and hotels in Mendoza City — modernize with fresh investment, and the region’s gastronomy is finally receiving well-deserved praise.

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neighborhoods | ALENTEJO

Villages and Vineyards Tour wine towns without the crowds in Alentejo, Portugal. BY TIM LEFFEL IN THE DAYTIME, ALENTEJO’S visitors tour a verdant countryside dotted with vineyards, cork trees and churches that look like they jumped out of a fairy tale. At night, many travelers sleep in a castle, in one of the Pousadas de Portugal where the rates don’t require a royal income. With most visitors to Portugal heading to Lisbon, the Algarve or the Duoro wine region, the Alentejo towns remain uncrowded and serene. When I stopped by Casa Agricola José de Sousa Rosado Fernandes Winery in the town of Reguengos de Monsaraz, the “guide” had to clean his grape-stained hands from moving hoses around between tanks. Down in the deep cellar, though, he showed me huge clay vats that mimic the same fermentation process used in ancient times. That night we ordered a bottle from the winery at a restaurant two blocks away. The Alentejo region has about 30 percent of Portugal’s land mass but only 7 percent of its population. Meal times are often farm-to-table without much effort or distance. A glass of wine inside the Estremoz or Monsaraz fortresses can be accompanied with aged cheese, cured olives, fresh bread and olive oil from lands just outside the centuries-old walls. The main city, Évora, has fewer than 60,000 residents and is still partially enclosed by a medieval wall. This compact town, a UNESCO World Heritage city, features Roman temple ruins from more than 2,000 years ago, a former palace and Gothic churches. With several wine tasting rooms and stores, this makes a great place to get an overview of local wines. Portugal boasts nine main grape varieties, but few are familiar to foreigners. For those who can’t tell an Alfrocheiro from a Roupeiro, the small blessing here is most wines are blends, anyway. With wines priced mostly for the local market, a wrong choice won’t cost much. In the villages, locals don’t eat out much, so finding the best dining spot is often a matter of following the sound of laughter to a café. For a true local experience head to Borba, where a few cafés serve wine made with traditional methods in the same space as the café serving food. While you’ll find dozens of wineries scattered around Alentejo, many are clustered around Borba, Vila Viçosa and Estremoz — also popular stops for historic architecture created with marble mined nearby and castles straight out of an epic adventure movie.

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AUGUST 2018

Alentejo Algarve

HISTORIC WINE COUNTRY: Monsaraz wine and cheese (top), Estremoz cheese (left), clay wine vats at José de Sousa (right), and Estremoz from the castle (bottom) PHOTOS: © TIM LEFFEL

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friends & family | SANTIAGO

Spectacular Santiago Chile’s capital city thrives as a hub for wine appreciation. BY GREGORY D. MCCLUNEY

TASTE OF CHILE: Bike riding and wine tasting in Valle de Maipo (left), sightseeing downtown, city skyline, and wine tasting in Valle de Casablanca

CHILE, THE LONGEST, THINNEST country in the world, is a study in contrasts. In the northern regions lies one of the driest parts of the world, the Atacama Desert. Its southern tip is the jumping-off point for travel to Patagonia, the lake country and on to the South Pole. Sandwiched in between, the huge valley west of the Andes is one of the world’s most productive agricultural zones. Santiago, the country’s capital city, sits at its center. Abundant, reliable water, flowing west from the massive 22,800-foot-high Andes, keeps crops green and verdant year-round. Santiago represents the gold standard of South American cities, a model modern democracy and economy put to work. The city’s personality stems from a can-do attitude; a young, well-educated population; and a feeling of optimism and achievement quickly

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contagious to visitors. Santiguans are friendly and quick to assist visitors, reflecting their pride in their city. This proves a plus for curious business and family travelers with a desire to experience the best of the city and sample the local culture. Sernatur, Chile’s national tourism agency, maintains headquarters in Santiago, with valuable visitor assistance in English available free of charge, a major plus for business travelers as well as families visiting the city. Its walk-up local tourist offices remain open six days a week and offer maps, literature and all types of visitor information. Driving a rental car through the intense traffic in the city can be daunting for visitors, while the city’s Metro system is clean, safe and reliable for individuals and families. Unlike in some cities in South America, they can enjoy inexpensive and fun daytripping around the city on the Metro, but it’s best to avoid rush hour. No visit to Santiago is complete without at least one day touring and tasting in Chile’s wine country; you can

LODGING CASTILLO ROJO BOUTIQUE HOTEL For a unique local experience, this boutique hotel offers a breath of fresh air in the fun and trendy Bellavista neighborhood. After dinner the streets fill up with locals looking for a party. Constitución 195, Bellavista $$$

reach several regions in just a few hours from the city center. One of the country’s most notable regions, the Maipo Valley, lies even closer, about an hour from many of the best luxury hotels. The Casablanca Valley is a full-day trip but worth the drive, which can continue west to the Pacific Coast beaches and Viña del Mar. The valley, one of the newer wine regions of Chile, takes advantage of the cooling winds off the Pacific. Many wine grapes respond well to lower temperatures at night. Chilean wine growers believe the Casablanca Valley will one day emerge as the Napa Valley of Chile. The country is now one of the five largest wine exporters in the world. Although these wines are designated “New World” by the industry, Spanish conquistadors brought vinifera vines with them to plant in Chile in the 16th century. The controversy surrounding Chile’s most iconic grape, Carmenere, makes an interesting chapter in the country’s wine history. Rooted in France, then Spain, this luscious, fruity, smoky red wine was long marketed as Merlot until modern winemaking and grape-growing technology identified it as something unique. Slowly, Carmenere emerged

as the national grape of Chile. It pairs beautifully with the meat-centric, traditional cuisine of the country. To see the most of the extensive wineries around Santiago, visitors may consider booking a food and drink tour. They can experience wineries and taste more wines in a day or half-day tour than on a self-drive trip. A simple search will uncover many options. For an overview of Santiago, why not start at the top? Despite all the sightseers, the Sky Costanera observation tower in Las Condes barrio offers visitors an unparalleled view from its decks almost 1,000 feet above city streets. You can combine it with a bike or walking tour for a half-day family adventure. Two city parks prove worth a visit for a more natural top-of-the-city experience. Cerro Santa Lucía dates from 1540, when it was a fortress for the Spanish, and offers a great view from the heart of the city. Or move on to the Cerro San Cristóbal, part of the Parque Metropolitano de Santiago, one of the largest city parks in the world. The summit offers spectacular views of the city and the Andes to the east. For families, it also provides access to the metro-

HOTEL SANTIAGO Mandarin Oriental’s first property in South America sets the standard for luxury lodging in Santiago and beyond. Recently remodeled rooms are spacious and tasteful. Enjoy the pool, spa and gardens in this city oasis. Av. Presidente Kennedy 4601, Las Condes $$$$ W Santiago A rooftop pool and bar, spa and a popular nightclub add to the luxury of the contemporary rooms of this 5-star hotel in a great location near the Metro. Isidora Goyenechea 3000, Las Condes $$$$

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DINING LATIN GRILL A sophisticated, elegant atmosphere showcases Chile’s premier seafood and meats in the Marriott. The deep wine list features older vintages from top producers in the country. Santiago Marriott Hotel, Av. Presidente. Kennedy 5741, Las Condes $$$ NOSO The innovative cuisine from a French chef, with a Chilean twist, is a top pick for fine dining, located in the W Santiago. Try the signature Patagonian lamb. W Santiago, Isidora Goyenechea 3000, Las Condes $$$$ OX One of the city’s best steak houses makes the perfect showcase for Chilean grass-fed meats, along with signature cocktails. Enjoy a pisco sour before dinner. Av. Nueva Costanera 3960, Vitacura $$$$

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politan zoo. After exploring this oasis, the kids will delight in a stop for homemade gelato at Emporio La Rosa. In a city known for its staggering number, size and variety of museums, Museo Bellas Artes de Chile is one not to miss. Opened in 1880, it houses more than 3,000 pieces in permanent and temporary exhibits from a range of artists, something for every taste and interest. It even boasts its own Metro stop, Bellas Artes. Take a break for lunch at the Mercado Central seafood market. It’s an architectural delight to be enjoyed as you roam the 200-plus food stalls and restaurants, a showcase for Chile’s abundant fish and shellfish. It’s much more than a market, with live music and massive fish displays. Plan to stay at least two hours and absorb the chaos. (Beware of your belongings, as the city’s best pickpockets work the area.) Families may want to consider visiting the worldwide hit educational theme park, KidZania, soon to reach the United States in 2019. But keep in mind, exhibits are in Spanish. Santiago doesn’t feel it has time for a traditional Latin American siesta these days. But after a busy day exploring the city, many visitors enjoy a spa treatment or swim in the hotel pool in the afternoon. Enjoy a drink at the picturesque bar La Piojera near the city center. Open since 1896, this Santiago gem boasts a history to match. Try a Terremoto sweet wine or traditional pisco sour and soak it all in. If meeting locals for dinner, you may be surprised to find things just get going at 10 p.m. local time. In fact, in many restaurants, the wait staff doesn’t even appear until almost 10. Luckily for visiting families, the city boasts plenty of fast food options and pizza stands for hungry kids. You can also take the gang to a trendy neighborhood such as Barrio Bellavista where you’ll find non-stop action, food, bars, street vendors and shops galore.

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LOCAL LORE:

Mercado Central seafood market (above), and sculpture outside Museo Bellas Artes de Chile (left) PHOTOS: © ELXENEIZE | DREAMSTIME.COM, © CHAVALIT LIKITRATCHAROEN | DREAMSTIME.COM

INFO TO GO

Comodoro Arturo Merino Benítez International Airport receives flights with direct service from around the world. Non-stop service from several gateways in the United States, Europe and Asia make air travel to Santiago smooth and seamless. Visitors can connect to major cities across South America before and after their stay in Santiago. Bus, van and taxi services take travelers the 9.3 miles to the city center.

bucket list | FRANCE

Among the Vines Take part in the French grape harvest for an extraordinary wine experience.

GATHERING THE GRAPES: (Left to right) Grape porter carrying a hotte, Hospice de Beaune, grape harvest at a vineyard, and a grape porter PHOTOS: © ALAIN DOIRE / BOURGOGNE-FRANCHECOMTÉ TOURISME, © ALAIN DOIRE / BOURGOGNEFRANCHE-COMTÉ TOURISME, © OLIVER LEFALVE, © OLIVER LEFALVE

INDIAN SUMMERS IN FRANCE lure wine enthusiasts to the vendange, the annual grape harvest. The countrywide tradition ends the silent stillness of Mother Nature’s growing season, about 100 days after the first blossoms emerge. For almost two weeks, workers clip their way through the long allées between vines. Equipped with pruners, they meticulously hand-cut each cluster of grapes and gently place them — bunch by bunch — into a basket. Grape porters transfer grapes to bigger baskets, or hottes, and carry them on their backs to a hopper, called a bin tipper, before a little truck transports them to the winery. Winemaking is so integral to French culture, families speak about “wine in our blood” and their particular land’s terroir — the unique qualities of soil, sunlight and topography which impart the wine’s characteristic taste and flavor. For owners of domaines (wine estates), vintners and négociants (wine merchants), it’s a serious business determining future sales and profits. Historically, the vendange had such economic significance that during the French Revolution the newly adopted Republican calendar chose Sept. 22–Oct. 21 as the first month of the year and named it Vendémiaire. The harvest remains vital as, according to the Federation of French Wines and Spirit Exporters, the secondlargest French export in 2017 was the production of wine and spirits.

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BY IRVINA LEW

The early to mid-September dates vary from region to region and year to year, depending upon when the grapes reach the ideal sugar level and juiciness. Heat waves and drought, sunlight or rain, even snow showers, all affect the date. Plus, the number of grapes required — each 750ml bottle includes approximately 220 grapes (about 2.2 pounds) — necessitates adding seasonal workers and, in some instances, volunteers for the arduous manual work. Yet it’s the romantic appeal of the convivial experience that enthralls the nation, entices oenophiles, lures thousands of volunteers and those willing to pay to participate as a vendangeur, or harvest worker … even to be a spectator. In Burgundy, wine estates on vine-studded hillsides echo the colors of the region’s famed glazed-tile roofs: burgundy (grapes), green (vines) and gold (sunlight). In this, my favorite and muchvisited wine region, La Route des Grands Crus, the 40-mile wine route, rambles south from Dijon to Beaune — the wine capital of Burgundy — and beyond to Santenay. It passes through Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, where the distinctive clay- and limestone-rich soil produces prestigious Burgundy wines. En route, place names read like a gastronomic wine list: Gevrey-Chambertin, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aloxe-Corton, Pommard and PulignyMontrachet. Regional gastronomic events and festivals abound, some of

ar the famed takes place ne , al iv st fe t 40 bars parannual harves sh. More than ontmartre, an ri M ou e fl d s to ge ed an us es Vend where vines The Fetes d d fireworks. in Paris, near ur oe -C ts, dances an ré bi ac hi S ex , of ts e uc om prod white d ures regional e event feat th d an , te pa tici

which pay tribute to Bacchus, the god of wine, and Saint Vincent, the patron saint of winemakers. One popular pilgrimage is to the walled 12th-century Château du Clos de Vougeot, founded by Cistercian monks and the longtime headquarters of The Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin (Fraternity of Knights of the WineTasting Cup). The most exhilarating experiences are at exceptional wine estates. Just a 15-minute drive (or 40-minute bicycle ride) from Beaune, Domaine Leflaive, in Puligny-Montrachet, is a pioneer in biodynamic viticulture and wine tourism. Vendange visits include an in-depth vineyard tour followed by a cellar visit. Here, Olivier Leflaive or his brother, Patrick, describes the importance of terroir and discusses appellations and the winemaking process from cultivation to harvest, fermentation, barrel-aging and bottling. Tour packages include a glass of Burgundy and options for a tasting lunch — with paired wines — or dinner and an overnight at La Maison d’Olivier Leflaive, the 17th-century building housing his 13-room, 4-star hotel. Olivier expects the 2018 harvest in early September and notes it’s a “critical, busy, intense but happy period.” What’s particularly rare is the chance to actually be a vendangeur, even for three hours. At Clos Marey-Monge 2018, at the 300-yearold Château de Pommard, which embraces sustainability and

biodynamic viticulture, the morning program starts with a glass of Chardonnay; then participants hand-pick in the vineyard, help at the sorting table and witness the vinification process at the winery. Tasting fine wines, including premiers crus, is part of the allure at Château de la Crée, a Côte de Beaune wine estate in Santenay. It dates from 1431, when it was owned by Nicolas Rolin, chancellor to the Duke of Burgundy and founder of the historic Hospice de Beaune, where every third weekend in November collectors bid on rare vintages at the famous annual charity wine auction. During the half-day vendange program at its Domaine Serene gravity-flow winery, guests explore the ancient cellars, learn about the winemaking process and taste five wines. Harvest festivities take place from Bordeaux to Burgundy, Corsica to Champagne, the Languedoc to the Loire and other wine regions. Visite packages range from tours and tastings to vineyard tours in classic cars, pique-nique lunches with workers or helicopter vistas of the vineyards. Regional tourist offices post specific information on their websites when precise dates are confirmed in mid- to late summer. Each harvest showcases the beauty of nature; familiarizes visitors with French history, culture, patrimony and culinary bounty; and offers the extraordinary possibility of experiencing the camaraderie so emblematic of the vendange.

AUGUST 2018

INFO TO GO From Paris, the TGV high-speed train from Gare de Lyon reaches Dijon Ville, in Burgundy, in about 95 minutes.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

O’Hare Happenings

Mayor Emanuel, airline, and city officials hold signing ceremony for new use and lease agreement. O’Hare 21 is an $8.7B plan to transform the airport into a modern, 21st century global gateway.

Chicago O’Hare International, already one of the world’s busiest and best connected airports, has started an $8.7 billion transformation that will elevate the travel experience and make it a premier hub for international travel. $8.7 BILLION AGREEMENT TO TRANSFORM O’HARE In spring 2018, Mayor Rahm Emanuel signed a historic $8.7 billion plan to modernize Chicago O’Hare International Airport. To be developed over the next eight years, the program will create 60,000 construction jobs and tens of thousands of permanent jobs. By 2026, the Terminal Area Plan will completely redevelop the existing terminals, with expanded gates and facilities at Terminal 5; the redevelopment of Terminal 2 into the O’Hare Global Terminal; and renovations and expanded concourses to Terminals 1 and 3. Among the improvements to customer experience are reduced flight delays, expanded travel options, new security screening upgrades, new self-service technologies, state-of-the-art baggage systems and more concessions, departure lounges and public amenities.

NEW GATES As the first step of the terminal expansion plan, in May, Mayor Emanuel and Doug Parker, CEO, American Airlines, celebrated the opening of five new gates at O’Hare International Airport. The $78 million investment extended Terminal 3’s L Concourse and was the first major gate expansion at the airport in 25 years. The new gates will improve on-time performance and offer greater connectivity for domestic and international destinations served by American Airlines. MOST MODERN AND EFFICIENT AIRFIELD IN THE U.S. The multibillion O’Hare Modernization Program has reconfigured O’Hare’s intersecting runway layout into a modern, parallel runway system that allows for the airport terminal expansion while significantly reducing delays and increasing capacity. O’Hare’s on-time performance has

vastly improved since OMP began, with delays decreasing by more than 60 percent. NEW ROUTES More than 50 airlines at O’Hare provide service to more than 230 destinations worldwide, including 46 countries. With 17 international routes announced or launched in 2018 so far, O’Hare ranks first among the 15 largest U.S. international gateway airports in terms of net new international services added. This year O’Hare adds new nonstop international services to destinations not previously served from Chicago including Ethiopia, Auckland and Bogota. By the end of 2018, Chicago will be one of only five cities globally to have nonstop passenger air service to all six major inhabited regions of the world (Africa, Asia, Europe, North America, Oceania, and South America). Learn more at flychicago.com.

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kicking back | STELLENBOSCH

Vintage South Africa Visit wine estates old and new in Stellenbosch. BY RICHARD NEWTON WINELANDS:

(Left to right) Views from Delaire Graff Estate, Anton Smit’s Faith sculpture along the Delaire Graff Estate driveway, a wine tasting flight, wine barrels ready to be filled PHOTOS: © DELAIRE GRAFF ESTATE, © DELAIRE GRAFF ESTATE, © SOHADISZNO | DREAMSTIME .COM, © JBORZICCHI | DREAMSTIME.COM

IT’S AFRICA, THOUGH NOT AS you’d imagine it. Lush valleys fringed by mountains. Scenic towns and villages of white, Dutchstyle houses. A Mediterranean climate of hot, dry summers and cool, damp winters. And vineyards, lots of vineyards. Welcome to the Boland — the Highland — of South Africa’s Western Cape. Thanks to the abundance of vineyards, this clement region is more commonly known as the Winelands, in turn subdivided into a patchwork of districts familiar to wine buffs the world over from bottle labels: Paarl, Constan-

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tia, Franschhoek, Klein Karoo and — most famous of all — Stellenbosch. Wine has been produced in this region since the 17th century. Although there have been challenges along the way, few have been as severe as the current three-year drought, which left nearby Cape Town almost entirely without running water and also affected the grape harvest, expected to be 15 percent below average this year. Ironically, the harsh conditions are likely to make for an unusually good vintage. The current extremes of temperature add flavor

INFO TO GO

International flights arrive at Cape Town International Airport, 10 miles east of downtown Cape Town and 18 miles west of Stellenbosch. Most visitors combine a tour of the Winelands with a stay in Cape Town. You can get to Stellenbosch by self-drive (which, of course, restricts the amount of wine you can taste) or by bus tour; several companies run guided group tours from Cape Town. The downside is you’ll only get to visit the wineries on the itinerary. Perhaps the best option is to self-drive and to overnight at a winery or two, enabling you to fully participate in the afternoon tastings.

to the grapes, while the lack of rain reduces the threat from pests and disease. For connoisseurs, 2018 is shaping up as an exceptionally good year for South African wine. You can taste it for yourself by taking the wine route through Stellenbosch, just a 45-minute drive from Cape Town. Dozens of wineries open to the public for tours and, more importantly, wine tasting. Many also offer accommodation, which overcomes the tricky issue of selecting the designated driver. Alternatively, join an organized coach tour out of Cape Town or Stellenbosch. With so many wineries competing for visitors, most expanded beyond standard tours and tastings to offer additional attractions. One of the oldest estates is Spier Wine Farm, established in 1692 and currently owned by the billionaire Dick Enthoven, who also owns Nando’s fast food chain. Located a 15-minute drive southwest of Stellenbosch, Spier occupies an area of about 2,700 acres, which visitors

can explore by Segway. In addition, the farm maintained an eagle rescue center since 2001 and offers the chance to see these magnificent birds of prey in flight and even to handle them. The dancing barn owls are a particular highlight. The main attraction remains the wine tasting. At Spier a fee of approximately $3 (in some other wineries, tasting is free) includes three signature wines and two premier wines. Children are catered to with a grape juice tasting. Tastings of food and wine pairings have become a recent trend among the wineries. At Spier you can taste the wine in combination with artisan chocolate. At the Avontuur Estate, wines are paired with fudge and nougat. Sample wine at Somerbosch alongside the homemade red wine ice cream. And Delheim offers wine tasting in combination with wild mushrooms. The Delaire Graff Estate, owned by diamond tycoon Laurence Graff, occupies a spectacular position above the Helshoogte Pass, with clear-

LODGING

within a village-like cluster of buildings.

DELAIRE GRAFF ESTATE “The vineyard in the sky” has four separate lodges available to rent, each accommodating two to four people. One features an estate view, the others overlook the spectacular valley.

Spier Wine Farm, R310 Baden Powell Drive, Stellenbosch $$$$

Helshoogte Pass, Stellenbosch $$$$ SPIER HOTEL Set within the estate of the same name, the 153 rooms are housed

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THE STELLENBOSCH HOTEL One of the best options in the town of Stellenbosch, the hotel occupies a lovely 19thcentury Dutch building within walking distance of the main attractions. Corner of Dorp and Andringa streets, Stellenbosch $$$

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CAPE CULTURE:

Art Institute in Stellenbosch Old Town (top), and Blaauwklippen Vineyards PHOTOS: © KTREE | DREAMSTIME.COM, © BLAAUWKLIPPEN VINEYARDS

DINING BASIC BISTRO Pastas, sandwiches and burgers if you want, but for some local flavor, try the Cape Malay chicken curry. 31 Church St., Stellenbosch $$

day views across to distant Table Mountain. While many estates are child-friendly, Delaire Graff’s sideline attractions are more grown-up, centering on a spa, a world-class art collection (including a famous painting, Chinese Girl, by Vladimir Tretchikoff) and four boutiques (including one selling diamonds). Tasting at Delaire Graff takes place in a dedicated copper-roofed wine lounge. For wine newbies, there are wine tutors on hand to steer you through the experience, from whites to reds to rosés to sparkling wines. Back on the family-friendly route, Blaauwklippen Vineyards (another of the original 17th-century estates) has a wealth of diversions for children, including pony rides, habituated goats and alpacas and a jungle gym. Every Sunday the estate holds a family market that features a range of stalls offering food, arts and crafts and antiques. Tastings at Blaauwklippen usually feature five chosen wines which can be paired with macarons, chocolate or canapés. DeMorgenzon Estate, 20 minutes west of Stellenbosch, is one of the most eco-friendly of all the wineries (though most have dedicated environmental programs). Approximately 10 percent of the estate has been set aside for the restoration of one of the world’s most endangered habitats, the Renosterveld, dominated by a unique shrub, the renosterbos (“rhinoceros bush” — before the vineyards, rhinos flourished here). The estate’s vineyards are painstakingly tended; recorded Baroque music plays among the vines during the day to aid the growing process. The DeMorgenzon tasting room is open every day 10 a.m.–5 p.m.

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DELAIRE GRAFF RESTAURANT Rated one of the region’s best restaurants, the sophisticated menu incorporates local, seasonal ingredients. Delaire Graff Estate, Helshoogte Pass, Stellenbosch $$$$ MONT MARIE Chef Pieter Vlok conjures a fusion of global influences “with a South African personality.” Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

With so many wineries to visit, the historic university town of Stellenbosch is all too easy to overlook, which is a shame because it’s an attraction in its own right. The town is full of remarkably preserved Cape Dutch, Georgian, Regency and Victorian architecture. The Village Museum, a complex of restored houses, provides an overview of the different styles. The living essence of Stellenbosch can be enjoyed by taking a stroll along leafy Dorp Street, lined with historic buildings housing quirky shops and cafés. As ever in this region, you’re never far from the next alcohol tasting. Just outside of town is Van Ryn’s Distillery and Brandy Cellar. Tours, which should be booked in advance through the company website, include the chance to sample various brandies. As with all the tasting opportunities in and around Stellenbosch, be sure to pace yourself. Overindulgence could impair your memories of this unique and beautiful corner of Africa. Moderation adds to the glow.

Blaauwklippen Road, Stellenbosch $$$

, ally b o Gl illion m 20 s of n sse frica gla A uth o S re ea n i w ed um . s n co day y r eve

lgbtq+

Welcoming Wineries Discover the many ways to enjoy fine wine around the globe. BY MARK CHESNUT

TASTE OF FRANCE: La Grande Maison

FOR MANY TRAVELERS, THERE’S NOTHING better than sitting back with a glass of wine and taking in the local scenery. And LGBTQ+ wine enthusiasts can find an array of interesting ways to enjoy fine wine with a rainbow twist. California is a naturally popular place for wine lovers of every stripe. A company called Out in the Vineyard creates upscale itineraries and events in California’s wine country for LGBTQ+ travelers and their friends, including luxury hotel stays and exclusive winery tours. Its annual Gay Wine Weekend, in July in Sonoma, is complete with music, dancing, tastings, a Champagne brunch and a wine auction. Accommodation options are extensive in Sonoma County; among those “TAG Approved,” indicating an LGBTQ+-friendly attitude, are the Applewood Inn & Spa in Guerneville, the Hilton Sonoma Wine Country and Hyatt Vineyard Creek Santa Rosa. Across the Atlantic, wine enthusiasts can explore France’s famed product while staying at La Grande Maison, a bed-andbreakfast in the Loire Valley vineyards offering one- to three-day tours. And in Italy, travelers can sign up with Italy Gay Travels for a Foodies Tour that includes wine tasting.

South Africa’s wine country is another world-class destination with a decidedly progressive and welcoming vibe. Cape Town Gay Tours offers bespoke excursions, including a Winelands Tour that visits as many as four vineyards in one day, with a cellar tour, multiple wine tastings and stops in the scenic towns of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. For the most upscale experience, opt for helicopter transfers, allowing for sky-high views of one of South Africa’s most beautiful landscapes. Another South African company, Friends of Dorothy, offers a Yellow Brick Road Tour that focuses on the Cape Winelands as well, with lunch on a wine farm or at an award-winning restaurant where local varietals are a specialty. South America should also be on the wish list for travelers longing for fine wine. In Argentina, Mendoza Gay Tours focuses on LGBTQ+-welcoming wineries in one of the Americas’ most famed wine regions. The company also provides insider travel tips and arrangements during Vendimia para Todos, a “gay harvest festival” that takes place the weekend after Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia, which celebrates the lives of those who work in the vineyards.

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airport update

French Connection Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport perfects the art of transporting passengers. BY ERICH MARTIN LOCATED ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF PARIS, Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport offers travelers a way to unwind and relax before their flights. Construction on the airport began in 1966, and the doors opened in March 1974. CDG is a desirable gateway for travelers looking to fly close to Paris. The 20-mile trip into Paris takes most passengers about 30 minutes. The airport, less than two hours by plane from every major city in Western Europe, services a number of the region’s longer flights. CDG handles about 65 million passengers each year, with the capability to serve nearly 80 million. About 31.9 percent of those passengers catch connecting flights to any of the 329 cities the airport serves. In May alone, 6.1 million passengers made their way through CDG. The hub is well-equipped to deal with the traffic flow in terms of its ability to transport passengers and keep patrons engaged and entertained before their flights. Three main terminals handle arrivals and departures at CDG, enabling up to 120 aircraft movements each hour. The groundbreaking parallel runway system makes it possible to support this many movements, up from 118 each hour in 2015. CDG offers six locations where anxious and weary travelers can escape for some 1980s nostalgia, due to a partnership between Paris Aéroport and Néo Legend arcades. The stations provide free access to games popular between the 1980s and today, giving adults and children something to do while waiting for their flights. Continuing with the theme of providing video games to entertain passengers, a number of locations throughout CDG allow passengers to indulge in Playstation games, thanks to a partnership with the company. This focus on keeping travelers entertained does not stop with a few arcade games. The airport announced in May it will provide free yoga nidra classes to travelers waiting for their flights through August. “Based on visualization and meditation, yoga nidra is suitable for all ages. It helps to relieve tension and to let your body and mind drift gradually into holiday mode,” a release announcing the initiative said. Throughout the summer the program will offer more than 680 hours of yoga to travelers through the airport, exemplifying the airport’s commitment to wellness. Arts and culture are highlighted in the airport. Art exhibitions,

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AUGUST 2018

LOOKING OUT:

Charles de Gaulle Airport window (above) and terminal (left) PHOTOS: © RUSLAN GILMANSHIN | DREAMSTIME .COM, © MIHAI ANDRITOIU | DREAMSTIME.COM

ongoing in the Charles de Gaulle terminals, do their best to support French creation and explore French heritage. Art, as part of the travel experience, is everywhere in CDG, according to the CDG website. Artwork currently on display in Terminal 1 features the “Paris, Peinture and Photo” exhibition, highlighting artists’ views of Paris from different time periods.

PARIS CHARLES DE GAULLE AIRPORT parisaeroport.fr

health

Social Well-Being Develop healthy relationships for a healthier life. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN STRONG, HEALTHY RELATIONSHIPS are vital throughout our lives. Our social ties with family, friends, neighbors, co-workers and others impact our mental, emotional and even physical well-being. Healthy relationships are powerful in promoting overall health. Research shows having a variety of social relationships may help reduce stress and heart-related risks. Strong social ties are linked to a longer life, while loneliness and social isolation are linked to poorer health, depression and increased risk of an early death. As children we learn the social skills needed to form and maintain relationships with others. At any age we all can learn to improve our relationships. All relationships exist on a scale from healthy to unhealthy to abusive. One sign of a healthy relationship is feeling good about yourself around your partner, family member or friend. We should feel safe talking about our emotions, feel valued and be able to listen to and trust each other. It is normal for people to disagree, but conflicts should not turn into personal attacks. In a healthy relationship, you can disagree without hurting each other and make decisions together. No one should ever be in a relationship where one person constantly puts down the other. If you grew up in a family of abuse, it may be difficult as an adult to know what a healthy relationship is or can be. Abuse may feel normal. Abuse may be physical, sexual, verbal or emotional. Hurting with words, neglect and withholding affection are examples of verbal or emotional abuse. In an unhealthy or abusive relationship, your partner may blame you for your bad feelings about something he or she did or said and may say you are too sensitive. Putting you down lowers your self-esteem and keeps the other person in control. In a healthy relationship, if you tell your partner he hurt your feelings, he may feel

badly and will try not to do it again. Abuse in an intimate relationship is domestic violence or intimate partner violence and involves patterns of behavior used by one person to control another he or she is married to, living with, dating now or in the past. Studies show certain factors help to protect people from forming unhealthy relationships. This protection starts early in life. The quality of an infant’s emotional bond with a parent has long-lasting positive or negative effects on the ability to develop healthy relationships. A family that functions well is central to a child’s development. Parents can help children to listen, set appropriate boundaries and resolve conflicts. Parents teach their children by example how to consider other people’s feelings and act in a way to benefit others. Secure emotional bonds help children and teens develop trust and selfesteem as they venture out of the family to form other social connections. Healthy relationships reduce the risk of a child becoming emotionally distressed or engaging in antisocial behavior. Unhealthy relationships in the family, including neglect and abuse, put a child at risk for future unhealthy relationships. In the early stages of a relationship, it is important to build a foundation of appreciation and respect. Explore each other’s interests so you have a long list of things to enjoy together. Try new things together to expand on mutual interests. Establish a pattern of apologizing if you make a mistake or hurt your partner’s feelings. Your partner will trust you more knowing you will take responsibility for your words and actions. Change is inevitable. Changes in life outside your relationship impact what you want and need from each other. Welcome it as an opportunity to enhance the relationship. Occasionally set aside

time to check in with each other on changing expectations and goals. If you both ignore difficult topics for too long, the relationship can drift away without your noticing it. Having healthy relationships with others starts with liking yourself. Learn what makes you happy. Treat yourself well. Know you deserve to be treated well by others. In a healthy relationship people respect each other, know they make each other better people, share common interests, have outside friends and activities and resolve arguments with love and respect. Relationships are supposed to make people happy. We should feel good about what happens when we are together with loved ones. In a healthy relationship, keep conversations private, make decisions together and hold each other to the same standards. Enjoy spending time apart, alone and with others. Talk openly about sexual and reproductive choices. You and your partner should willingly consent to sexual activity and safely discuss what you are and are not comfortable with. You both should have equal say regarding finances and have access to the resources you need. You should be able to parent in a way you feel comfortable with and communicate together about the needs of children, as well as your needs as parents. You have the power to create healthy relationships all around you just by paying attention to who you are inside. Getting to know yourself makes it easier to recognize the differences between healthy and unhealthy relationships. Communication, trust and respect are the key ingredients for healthy relationships. If you or a friend need help with an unhealthy relationship, contact the National Domestic Violence Hotline at thehotline.org or by calling 800 799 SAFE.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

AUGUST 2018

globaltravelerusa.com

past & present

In 1972, while shooting photographs of the Sturdivant Ranch, Jack and Dolores Cakebread casually offered to buy the ranch. The Surdivants took them up on the offer, and two years later Cakebread Cellars released its first wine. Over the years, Cakebread Cellars bought more land for its vineyards and several other wineries in Napa Valley, growing to be one of Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most successful and respected wineries. The second generation of winemaking Cakebreads now runs the winery. Photos above show the old barrel room, construction of what is now the library, Dennis and Bruce Cakebread in 1989, and the current vineyard and winery.

globaltravelerusa.com

AUGUST 2018

PHOTOS: ÂŠ CAKEBREAD CELLARS

Cakebread Cellars

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