VIENNA | ВЕНА | 维也纳 | فيينا
VIENNA Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2015/16
Page 32 ON THE RISE: why fashion designers are falling for Vienna’s gentle charms
VIVE ELLE THE NEW DIAMOND COLLECTION FROM THE HOUSE OF BUCHERER
An exquisite design inspired by art deco – a celebration of beauty and a tribute to the joie de vivre of the 1920s.
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EDITOR’S LETTER Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen
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Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this cultured European capital. Vienna has much to ofer, as our guide on page 41 reveals. Readers who appreciate cutting-edge fashion will enjoy our feature on the city’s ever-moreinteresting creative scene (page 32), and in this issue we also reveal the new boutiques you won’t want to miss. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15% when shopping in Austria. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Vienna. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
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Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Vilnius
ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN
Welcome to Vienna
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CONTRIBUTORS
PHOTO: GRACE BIRD
ILLUSTRATION: BEN WISEMAN
Ben Wiseman Ben Wiseman created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Vienna. His graphic artwork has previously been commissioned by Time, Random House, the New York Times and Wired, among others. His clean, stylish and witty style makes him a perfect illustrator for this cover, inspired by our feature about Vienna’s emergence as an ever-more-noteworthy design hub on page 32. It shows fashionably dressed fgures encased in bubbles foating over the city’s historic skyline. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/ covers.
Harriet Quick Journalist Harriet Quick reports on Vienna’s inspiring creative scene for this edition of SHOP. She has held senior roles at the Guardian and British Vogue, where she was the fashion features director for over a decade. globalblue.com
Theresa Harold SHOP’s fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold has worked in Hong Kong, Macau and London, covering the latest in luxury living. She has interviewed celebrities, designers, CEOs – and, memorably, a prince.
Aaron Carline New York-born Aaron Carline, an artworking assistant at SHOP, is passionate about editorial design and zine culture. During his spare time he can often be found in vintage clothing stores, or listening to 1990s hip hop.
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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Managing editor/ acting features editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Ben Wiseman Contributor Harriet Quick Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Production assistant Katie Muxworthy City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Charlotte Rogers Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Simon Thompson Artworking assistants Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Tom Knight
Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Online production assistant Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang Chinese translators Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Aiyang Zou Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb
G L O B A L B L U E AU S T R I A Head of commercial Austria Jiří Macas Marketing sales manager Danielle Willert Marketing executive Daniela Puntschart-Infeld Retail service manager Hermann Danzmayr Key account managers Ursula Bergsleithner, Felix Camondo, Petra Singer Account managers Wolfgang Gutbrunner, Mario Kronsteiner, Thomas Schnötzinger, Christian Seelos, Ulrich Tegelhofer Global Blue Austria, Zetschegasse 17, A-1230 Wien, +43 (0)1 798 4400, info.austria@globalblue.com
Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Gemma Latham Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak Commercial artworking intern Kiranjeet Kaur AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Production assistant Sammy Ha Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution and partnerships manager Lara Osuna
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue
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CLÉ DE CARTIER Neue Kollektion Wien – Kohlmarkt 1 – Tel. +43 (0) 1 535 104 000
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CONTENTS
PHOTO: HENRIK BLOMQVIST
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P ROD U C T S 18 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Vienna this season 20 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N EWS 26 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Vienna 27 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products F E AT U R E 32 Cover Story: In Its Own Fashion Vienna’s increasingly inspiring creative community is thriving thanks to the city’s cultured and relaxed atmosphere, says Harriet Quick
GU I DE 39 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Vienna ESSENTI A LS 43 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S 44 Русский Перевод 45 美文翻译 47 SOU V E N I R 48 The essential item to bring home
Above: the current collection of Vienna-born designer Arthur Arbesser, whose work draws heavily on Austrian culture
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FLIGHT OF FANCY This single-handle bag in nappa leather from Italian label Valentino’s autumn/winter 2015/16 collection is hand-painted and embroidered with multicoloured threads to create a pattern that mimics iridescent feathers. This season creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took inspiration from two extraordinary women: Emilie Louise Flöge and Celia Birtwell. The former was Gustav Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 43
Klimt’s companion and an integral part of the Vienna Secession movement; the latter was David Hockney’s muse and the star of Swinging London. These two diverse women are represented throughout the collection by floral prints, butterfly motifs and shades of gold, ivory and black. th Valentino Garavani handbag, €3,100, Valentino, Tuchlauben 5, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 53500 30100, valentino.com * for map go to page 42
PHOTO: VALENTINO GARAVANI
CHECK OUT
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IN HIS ELEMENT
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Handle whatever the weather throws at you in this stylish yet practical outft 1 1 4
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1. Cos jumper, €99, Cos, Neubaugasse 11, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 522 2020, cosstores.com
3. Louis Vuitton sunglasses, €580, Louis Vuitton, Tuchlauben 3-7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 6151, louisvuitton.com
5. Ermenegildo Zegna backpack, €1,200, Ermenegildo Zegna, Kohlmarkt 8-10, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 0979, zegna.com
2. Lloyd boots, €189.90, Lloyd, Rotenturmstrasse 13, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 815 8508, lloyd-shoes.com
4. Hermès scarf, €485, Hermès, Graben 22, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 5656, hermes.com
6. Hackett gloves, €175, Steffl, Kärntner Strasse 19, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 930560, hackett.com
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 43
PHOTO: (4) © HERMÈS/VICENTE SAHUC
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7. Marc O’Polo trousers, €99.90, Marc O’Polo, Rotenturmstrasse 19, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 8744, marc-o-polo.com
globalblue.com
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8. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra James Bond Limited Edition watch, €6,100, Omega, Stock-im-Eisen-Platz 3, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 0960, omegawatches.com
9. Massimo Dutti coat, €250, Massimo Dutti, Kohlmarkt 9, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 0488, massimodutti.com
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THROWBACK THURSDAY Take the best of 90s fashion and give it a modern twist 1
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1. MiH Jeans dress, €295, Schneeweiss, Wollzeile 20, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 916 6416, mih-jeans.com 2. Chanel Rouge Coco lipstick, €34, Douglas, Kärntner Strasse 26, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 9244, chanel.com
3. Salvatore Ferragamo shoes, €650, Salvatore Ferragamo, Kohlmarkt 7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 2814, ferragamo.com 4. Flug Zeug necklace, €49, The Vienna Globe, Zieglergasse 65, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 522 4257, fug-zeug.at
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 43
5. Sabrina Dehof ring, €149, Cadenzza, Kärntner Strasse 53, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 6996, sabrinadehof.com
PHOTOS: (1) PIXELATE IMAGING; (4) ARIS VENETIKIDIS
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GROWN-UP GLAMOUR Let your statement jewellery shine brightly against a low-key dress 1
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1. Awareness & Consciousness silk dress, €365, Awareness & Consciousness, Lindengasse 25, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)699 1170 9817, awarenessandconsciousness.com 2. Swarovski necklace, €349, Swarovski, Kärntner Strasse 8, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 9032, swarovski.com
globalblue.com
3. Dsquared2 earrings, €400, Amicis, Tuchlauben 11, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 513 2636, dsquared2.com
4. Rupert Sanderson shoes, €625, Stef, Kärntner Strasse 19, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 930560, rupertsanderson.com
A first-class shopping experience at attractive prices. Discover international brands and regional highlights in our Heinemann Duty Free shop at Vienna Airport. You can look forward to browsing elegant fragrances, high-quality cosmetics, exquisite spirits, fine food, regional specialities and you can even save up to 30 % with our Special Offers!
Visit us online at heinemann-dutyfree.com
Scan and discover first-class offers.
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PHOTO: © HERTHA HURNAUS FOR WOLFENSSON. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
SHOP WINDOW
VIENNA’S NEW CONCEPT Wolfensson, a pioneering name on the Graz fashion scene, has opened a concept store in Vienna. The frst thing that visitors see upon entering is a large Jean Cocteau text on the wall that reads: ‘Style is a simple way of saying complicated things.’ It certainly seems Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 43
apt, given the rough walls, exposed concrete pillars and minimalist layout of the shop. Stocking a wide selection of both menswear and womenswear from established brands such as Helmut Lang as well as lesser-known labels including Ziggy Chen, Wolfensson is a mustvisit for fashion lovers. th Wolfensson, Habsburgergasse 1A, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 2200, wolfensson.com * for map go to page 42
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COCKTAIL HOUR Designed to display extraordinary coloured gemstones to their full potential, this distinctive Colonna cocktail ring is the latest piece in Wempe’s By Kim collection. A 16.83-carat tourmaline takes centre stage in a rose-gold setting, while the band is
formed from ten 10.85-carat tourmalines edged in bands of rose gold, inlaid with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds. The technical expertise involved in creating such a ring
PHOTO: (TOP) MATTHIAS HOFFMANN
HIT THE STREET Austria’s frst Carhartt Work In Progress store has opened in Vienna. The interior, designed by Andrea Caputo, has a raw appeal courtesy of the iron fttings, exposed pipes and white-painted brickwork, and features pieces of furniture by Dutch designer Piet Hein Eek and neon signage by Pietro Sanguineti. The industrial feel of the space makes it the perfect globalblue.com
makes this piece a masterful achievement. Although this is a colourful and exquisite piece of jewellery, it is elegant and doesn’t overwhelm the hand, ensuring that the owner will wear it for years to come. hl Wempe, Kärntner Strasse 41, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 3322, wempe.com * for map go to page 42
setting for the brand’s streetwear-inspired collections, which are known for their quality, comfort and durability. The label was formed in the 1990s as a European spinof of American workwear company Carhartt, founded in 1889, and now has more than 60 stores worldwide. fm Carhartt Work In Progress, Mariahilfer Strasse 1, 1060 Vienna, +43 (0)1 953 0336, carhartt-wip.com
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WRAP UP WARM For luxurious outerwear with a fashion edge, look no further than Moncler’s latest womenswear collection. From cocoon coats to capes and bomber jackets, Moncler ofers a shape to suit every taste and fgure, but it is the textures and detailing that take centre stage here. A subtle colour palette highlights the softness of fne wool or the volume of jacquard on otherwise classic coats. Deep black is chosen as the base for bold winter forals on sporty bomber jackets. Structured shapes exaggerate the contrasts of luxurious fabrics, with jacquard pieces edged in fur proving a real highlight. For evening, look out for the soft wool cape with foral beading: the perfect piece to wear over a cocktail dress. hl Moncler, Kohlmarkt 7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 0619, moncler.com * for map go to page 42
BIK BOK ARRIVES Norwegian fashion chain Bik Bok has opened its frst fagship store in Vienna, located on Mariahilfer Strasse. The brand blends international fashion trends and the sought-after minimalist style of Scandinavia to create collections that appeal to style-conscious young women, with everything from timeless wardrobe staples such as jeans to standout seasonal pieces including chic party dresses. The new fagship stocks Bik Bok’s full range of clothing, with stock updated daily, so visitors will always fnd something new here, or in one of the label’s other stores in the country. th Bik Bok, Mariahilfer Strasse 76, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 7205 68500, bikbok.com Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 43
S H O P | 29
DRESS TO IMPRESS
PHOTO: © DORON NADAV/LIFE GROUP
A favourite of Austria’s celebrity set, Viennese label Michel Mayer is known for its modern and elegant womenswear. Its airy fagship on Singerstrasse provides a suitably clean-cut backdrop for the brand’s high-quality semi-couture dresses and pret-aporter collections, the work of designer Michaela Mayer, who founded her almost-eponymous brand in 1995. Mayer’s neutral dresses hark back to an era of ladylike bespoke dressing with their extravagant tulles and interesting cuts. fm Michel Mayer, Singerstrasse 7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 967 4055, michelmayer.at * for map go to page 42
SAY IT WITH DIAMONDS Inspired by the style of the 1920s, Bucherer presents its latest collection of fne jewellery, Vive Elle. The art decoinfuenced range comprises around 20 pieces, including earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings. Featuring exquisite materials such as white gold, platinum and diamonds, the collection fuses Bucherer’s heritage of excellence in craftsmanship with the zest for life that characterised the Roaring Twenties. This show-stopping ring beautifully embraces the all-out, unashamed glamour of the era. Whether you’re buying it for yourself or for that special someone, this is a bold choice that won’t go unnoticed. hl Bucherer, Kärntner Strasse 2, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 6730, bucherer.com * for map go to page 42 globalblue.com
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PHOTO: HENRIK BLOMQVIST
S H O P | 33
IN ITS OWN FASHION Vienna may not move at the frantic pace of other world capitals, but its gentler way of life is proving a boon to its ever-more-interesting creative community, as Harriet Quick finds out 44 / 47
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Opposite: Arthur Arbesser autumn/winter 2015/16
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W
Petrov, who was born in the Ukraine and raised in Bulgaria, studied fashion at the Universität für Angewandte Kunst Wien (University of Applied Arts Vienna), or Die Angewandte for short. There he beneftted from its high-profle roster of tutors, including Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren of Viktor & Rolf and Raf Simons, now the creative director of Dior in Paris. The principles of Viennese modernism, with its quality materials and purist silhouettes, have had a profound infuence on Petrov’s work, brought into sharp focus since he launched his own label in 2005. ‘A concept of luxury that can be summarised in a few words does not exist for me. Of course, luxury fabrics, colours and materials create the products’ value, but I
PHOTO: © AUSTRIAN NATIONAL TOURIST OFFICE/POPP HACKNER
hile Paris, Milan and London remain the acknowledged fashion capitals of Europe, Vienna is emerging as a dark horse on the style map. Designers and entrepreneurs are fnding that this atmospheric city, renowned for its museums and cofee houses and as the birthplace of the infuential Wiener Werkstätte artistic movement, is a civilised and inspiring place to work, with none of the distracting cut-and-thrust of a metropolis. ‘The best aspects of Vienna are not only the historic and visitor attractions, but a new modern and dynamic culture that has emerged within the conservative surroundings,’ says Petar Petrov, one of a handful of Viennabased designers who are making waves on the international scene.
Above (from lef): view over Vienna from the Burgtheater; Petar Petrov autumn/winter 2015/16 (both)
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Designers are finding that this atmospheric city is a civilised and inspiring place in which to work try to design according to my personal idea of a modern woman who is both dynamic and elegant. I love women who play with feminine elements but also have a masculine side, and many of my designs are inspired by men’s wardrobes. What my clients share is
independence, individuality and a taste for the unexpected.’ In his autumn/winter 2015/16 collection, Petrov works out that delicate balance in panelled leather skirts, city coats in powder blue, silk blouse-dresses and sumptuous furs. Over the years, a host of professional women has discovered Petrov’s designs, including leading tastemakers such as Louise Neri, the director of the Gagosian Gallery in New York. Die Angewandte is a fertile breeding ground for both fashion and art – Helmut Lang is among its alumni. Up-and-coming Viennese designer Roshi Porkar is also a graduate. ‘It is one of the oldest art schools in Europe and the training is very strong,’ she says. ‘Vienna does not have a collective style
identity, but the artistic nourishment is rich.’ After graduating, Porkar went on to work for stylist Karl Templar in New York and for Alber Elbaz at Lanvin; her fascination with threedimensional efects and beautiful fabrics also saw her win the prestigious Chloé Award at the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography in 2014. ‘I put a lot of thought into what I do. I talk to friends and really try and design what they would like and what I would like to see rather than follow market trends,’ she explains. Fabulous silk fringe trousers, camoufageprint organza kimonos and lacquered evening trenches are all included in her current collection. ‘I like the fact that Vienna is not too young or too hip. You mix in diferent circles. There’s an Austrian saying that anything that happens in the world arrives here 10 years later.
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES FOR IMG/PETER MICHAEL DILLS
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES FOR MERCEDES-BENZ/PETER MICHAEL DILLS
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But that sense of slowness is appealing,’ says Porkar. Arthur Arbesser, who was raised in Vienna and trained at Central Saint Martins in London, is another Austrian creative on the rise. The designer, who launched his label in Milan in 2013 after seven years at Armani, is known for insouciant tailoring and is a former winner of the Vogue Italia/Altaroma Who Is On Next prize. His collections and presentations draw heavily on Austrian culture by using loden fabric, Werkstätte infuences and salon settings. The cross-fertilisation of artists, designers and makers – which includes graphic artists, ceramicists, jewellers and photographers – means Vienna is a stimulating, but not hectic, hub. On a pragmatic level, the low studio and shop rents make the city an attractive proposition for entrepreneurs. The extremes
Above (clockwise from lef): two distinctive looks from Roshi Porkar; Arthur Arbesser autumn/winter 2015/16; the designer himself
PHOTO: RAFAEL Y HERMAN
PHOTO: HENRIK BLOMQVIST
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of tradition and innovation are also refected in the retail mix. While the Goldenes Quartier, part of the city’s Unesco World Heritage-listed historic centre, ofers a beautiful setting for big-name fagships such as the likes of Louis Vuitton and Gucci, the city’s western ‘seventh district’, Neubau, has become a magnet for young designer-makers. The friendly, community-driven area even has its own website, which promotes local businesses. These take in everything from Beate von Harten’s handcrafted rugs and tapestries to Brillen Manufaktur’s custom-made eyewear and multibrand store Arnold’s. ‘It is not the best place for networking, but that has some positive sides,’ Petrov says. ‘It’s really very comfortable here.’ And right now, quality of life is a precious luxury in itself petarpetrov.com, arthurarbesser.com, 7tm.at
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GUIDE
PHOTO: © WIENTOURISMUS/MANFRED HORVATH
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Vienna with helpful maps of the main shopping areas, which show key visitor attractions as well as where to fnd the city’s must-visit boutiques. For further helpful hints from our well-travelled team and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/vienna.
A GLIMPSE OF VIENNA Above: the magnifcent Hofurg palace, parts of which are now open to the public, was formerly the main imperial winter residence
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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 32: In Its Own Fashion
Своя Мода Возможно, Вена - не самая оживленная из мировых столиц, но ее выдержанный темп жизни благотворно влияет на развитие интересной творческой атмосферы, – рассказывает Харриет Куик В то время, как Париж, Милан и Лондон уже давно признаны мировыми столицами моды, Вена, по-прежнему, остается темной лошадкой на карте Европы. Знаменитая своими музеями, кафе и различными творческими объединениями, включая «Венские мастерские», Вена вдохновляет целые поколения дизайнеров и предпринимателей, нашедших здесь укрытие от суеты шумных мегаполисов. «Главное достоинство Вены не только в исторических достопримечательностях, но и в ее современной и динамичной культуре, возникшей из консервативной обстановки», – говорит Петар Петров, один из венских дизайнеров, известных далеко за пределами Австрии. Петров, родившийся в Украине, но выросший в Болгарии, учился модному делу в Университете прикладных искусств в Вене (Universität für Angewandte Kunst Wien). Здесь его преподавателями были Виктор Хорстинг и Рольф Снорен из Viktor & Rolf, а также Раф Симонс, занимающий пост креативного директора Dior в Париже. Основы венского модернизма с его качественными материалами и пуристскими силуэтами оказали значительное влияние на творчество Петрова, открывшего свою марку в 2005 году. «Для меня не существует концепции роскоши, которую можно описать в двух словах. Конечно, роскошные ткани, краски и материалы придают изделию ценность, но я стараюсь создавать одежду в соответствии с собственными представлениями о современной женщине, активной и в тоже время элегантной. Мне нравятся женщины, сочетающие в своих globalblue.com
образах элементы женской и мужской одежды, а большинство моих коллекций вдохновлены мужским гардеробом. Всех поклонников моего творчества объединяет чувство независимости, индивидуальности и стремление к приключениям». В своей коллекции сезона осень-зима 2015-16 Петрову удалось достичь удивительного баланса в коллекции, сочетающей кожаные юбки, голубые пальто, шелковые блузки-платья и роскошные меха. За последние годы творчество дизайнера приобрело немало поклонников среди знаменитостей, включая таких законодателей моды, как Луизу äери – директора художественной галереи в äью-Йорке Gagosian Gallery. Венский университет одинаково популярен как среди начинающих модельеров, так и среди художников, и Хельмут Ланг, как раз, один из его выпускников. Талантливый венский дизайнер Роши Поркар также закончила это заведение. «Эта одна из старейших школ искусства в Европе, и уровень получаемых здесь знаний довольно высок, – говорит она. – Вена не имеет определенного стиля, но является отличным источником для вдохновения». После окончания учебы Поркар стала сотрудничать со стилистом Карлом Темпларом из äью-Йорка и Альбером Эльбацом из Lanvin; любовь к трехмерным эффектам и изящным тканям помогла ей завоевать награду Chloé Award на международном фестивале моды и фотографии Hyères в 2014 году. «Я тщательно обдумываю все, что создаю. Я общаюсь со своими друзьями и пытаюсь понять свои и их нужды и желания, в отличие от слепого следования модным тенденциям», – поясняет она. Сказочные штаны с шелковой бахромой, кимоно из органзы с камуфляжным принтом и лакированные вечерние тренчи – все это вошло в ее последнюю коллекцию. «Мне нравится, что Вена не слишком молодежная и не слишком хипстерская. Люди вращаются в совершенно разных кругах. Одна австрийская поговорка гласит, что все, что происходит в мире, появляется здесь десять лет спустя. äо это чувство медлительности по-своему привлекательно,» – говорит Поркар.
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Артур Арбессер, выросший в Вене и закончивший лондонский колледж Central Saint Martins, – еще один начинающий австрийский талант. Проработав семь лет в Armani, в 2013 году дизайнер основал свой бренд, специализирующийся на костюмах. Его коллекции, получившие награду Vogue Italia/ Altaroma Who Is On Next, основываются на австрийской культуре с ее традиционным грубым сукном серо-зеленого цвета, а также на влиянии «Венских мастерских». Гармоничное сосуществование художников, модельеров, графических дизайнеров, гончаров, ювелиров и фотографов означает, что Вена способствует самому широкому кругу творчества, сохраняя при этом спокойную, умиротворяющую атмосферу. В то же время, недорогая аренда студий и магазинов делает город привлекательным для предпринимателей. Бережно хранимые традиции и современные технологии прекрасно сочетаются в сфере розничной торговли. Goldenes Quartier, историческая часть города, занесенная в список охраняемых объектов ЮäЕСКО, сосредоточила на своих улицах значительную часть бутиков знаменитых международных марок таких, как Louis Vuitton и Gucci, в то время, как западная часть города или «седьмой квартал» Neubau – приютил магазины начинающих дизайнеров. éтот район даже имеет свой вебсайт, где рекламируются местные предприниматели. Тут можно найти все, от вязаных ковриков и гобеленов Beate von Harten до оригинальных солнечных очков Brillen Manufaktur и мультибрендовых магазинов, таких как Arnold’s. «éто не лучшее место для заведения новых связей, однако в этом есть положительные моменты, – говорит Петров. – èдесь очень уютно». А что еще нужно для жизни? Ее качество, вот что по-настоящему ценно. petarpetrov.com, arthurarbesser.com, 7tm.at
лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.
43: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
古旧之地也滋养出了充满活力的现代文化。”维也纳本土设
1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €75.01 и сэкономьте до 15% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (äДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. 美文翻译
32: In Its Own Fashion 自得其尚 维也纳的城市节奏也许不似其他国际都会一样狂飙突进， 但其相对温和的生活方式也润泽了一个与众不同、意趣横生 的创意社区，Harriet Quick带您了解 巴黎、米兰和伦敦诚然是久负盛名的欧洲时尚之都，但维也 纳却似一匹黑马，奔驰在风潮前列。影响深远的维也纳工坊 运动就发源于此，当地的博物馆和咖啡店更是闻名世界。设 计师与企业家咸集至此，远离大都会的纷纷扰扰，于这座氛 围独特的气质之都静享喷薄灵感与文明底蕴。 “维也纳最棒的绝不只是历史遗迹和旅游景点。这片
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых
计师、在国际舞台上引领潮流的Petar Petrov如是说。 这位生于乌克兰、长于保加利亚的设计师曾在维也 纳应用艺术大学（Universität für Angewandte Kunst
Wien）攻读时尚专业，该校堪称豪华的师资阵容让他受益 匪浅，Viktor & Rolf品牌创始人Viktor Horsting 和Rolf Snoeren、巴黎Dior创意总监Raf Simons等资深设计人都 与他有师徒之缘。受到维也纳设计界现代主义原则的深刻
46
影响，自从2005年发布个人品牌以来，Petrov一直致力于对
“维也纳并非联网合作的最佳地点，但她也有自己的优
优质材料和干净轮廓的不懈追求。
点，”Petrov说道。“这是一个非常舒适宜人的地方。”而如
“在我看来，三言两语很难概括奢侈这个概念。奢华 的质地、色彩和用料固然能为产品增值，但我总相信，现
今，生活质量本身就已经是珍稀的奢侈品了。
petarpetrov.com, arthurarbesser.com, 7tm.at
代女性应是活力四射而不失优雅的；刚柔并济的女性才更 可爱。我的顾客往往独立而有个性、追求意外之美。”在
2015/16年秋冬季系列中， Petrov以镶皮短裙、粉蓝色城
43: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
市外套、真丝女士衬衫和奢华皮草表达了此种微妙的平衡。
畅购全球，尊享退税
多年来，他的设计赢得了众多职业女性的青睐，纽约高古轩 美术馆（Gagosian Gallery）的主管Louise Neri等时尚先
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，环球蓝
锋都是他的拥趸。
联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为
维也纳应用艺术大学这片时尚与艺术的沃土可谓硕果
您节约购物开销。
累累，校友中不乏Helmut Lang这样的大师。维也纳新晋
每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）
设计师Roshi Porkar也毕业于此。“这是欧洲最老牌的艺
获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或
术院校之一，这里的训练强度极高，”她说道。“维也纳没有
者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵
什么统一的艺术风格，却给予了我们丰富的艺术滋养。”毕
循我们简单的退税过程：
业后，Porkar曾先后与纽约设计师Karl Templar 和法国 品牌 Lanvin设计师Alber Elbaz共事；她的作品体现了对 3D效果和精美织物的强烈偏爱。2014年，Porkar参加法 国耶尔国际时尚摄影节（Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography），一举斩获极富盛名的蔻依奖 （Chloé Award）。 “我设计前总是考虑到方方面面，还会询问朋友们的
1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global
Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他们
想法。我不愿随波逐流，而是要设计出我自己和朋友们真正
在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点领取
期望的作品，” Porkar解释道。她设计的当季系列中，精美
您的退税款。
绝伦的绸边长裤、迷彩印花的欧根纱和服、漆制军装风晚 装一应俱全。“维也纳既不会失之轻浮，也不会太过嬉皮，
联系方式：
我喜欢这种涉猎不同圈子的感觉。有句奥地利俗语说：世
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€75.01即可节约高达购买价格15%的税。请注意：
间之事，十年后方至此地。但这种缓慢的节奏却是如此宜 人，”Porkar如是说。 在维也纳长大、受训于伦敦中央圣马丁艺术学院 （Central Saint Martins）的Arthur Arbesser也是一 位奥地利创意新星。他以随性的剪裁著称，曾在罗马时装 周（Vogue Italia/Altaroma）斩获“谁是下一站潮人”奖 （Who Is On Next prize）。2013年，已在Armani从业七 年的他创立了极具奥地利风情的个人品牌；他深受工坊运动 之影响，偏爱罗登呢料，富有沙龙文化风范。 维也纳云集了许多画家、陶艺师、珠宝匠和摄影师，这 些艺术家、设计师和工匠间的相互促进使这座城市成为了一 个洋溢着灵感创意而又不致令人狂热的艺术中心。在精明 的商人眼中，维也纳因低廉的工作室和店铺租金而更具吸引 力。从当地零售业格局之中，亦可窥见传统与创新的两个极 致。维也纳有一处名为“黄金区域”（Goldenes Quartier） 的历史中心，位列联合国教科文组织世界遗产名录，Louis
Vuitton和Gucci等奢侈大牌的旗舰店都坐落于此。而城西 的“第七区”诺依鲍（Neubau），则是新锐设计师和工匠 的温床。这片友好的乐土甚至有本地专属网站促进贸易往 来。从Beate von Harten的手工毯、手工织锦，到Brillen
Manufaktur的定制眼镜，再到多品牌商店Arnold ’s，这块 小小的地方可谓包罗万象。 globalblue.com
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تس ّوق.1 الخاص أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة،أينم تس ّوقت ّ . وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالتGlobal Blue بغلوبل بلو أطلب.2 أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة،ف طريق العودة إل وطنك لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب .الخاصة بنا الستداد ّ :للت ّصال
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. من ثن مشتياتك15% وادّخر حتّى€75.01 أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة يُفرض رسم، ف بعض الطارات.عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول .عل استداد فوري نقدي
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ترجمة باللغة العربيّة In Its Own Fashion: 32
فازت بجائزة Chloé Awardالرموقة ف مهرجان Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography سنة .2014
أسلوب خاص تفس قائلةً“ :أفكّر كثيا ً ف العمل الذي سأقدّمه .أتشاور م“ ّ ٌ أصدقائ وأحاول أن أص ّمم ملبس تعجبهم وتعجبني بدلً من أن أتب“ لعل مدينة فيينا ل تتح ّرك بالوتية السيعة نفسها التي تتح ّرك بها ّ الصيحات الفروضة عل السوق ”.تض ّم مجموعتها ساويل حريرية ومعاطف العواصم الخرى ،لكن يبدو أ ّن الحياة الساكنة التي تؤ ّمنها تشكّل نعم ًة بشاشيب رائعة وأثواباً فضفاضة حريرية بنقشات ظاهرة َ للمبدعي الخلقي فيها Harriet Quick .تكشف عن التفاصيل. “أحب حقيقة أ ّن فيينا ليست ل ّاعة أنيقة .تشح Porkarقائلةً: ّ مدينة الشباب أو الدينة العصية ،إذ تتنوع فيها الجيال .وبحسب فيم تبقى باريس ولندن وميلنو عواصم الوضة العتف بها ف كل ما يحصل ف العال ل يصل إل فيينا إل بعد 10 قول ن ساوي ّ تشق فيينا طريقها لتثبت مكانتها عل خارطة الزياء .فقد بدأ أعوام .لك ّنني أرى ف هذا البطء جاذباً فعليّاً”. أوروباّ ، الصممون ورواد العمل يكتشفون أ ّن هذه الدينة الغامضة العروفة بعد أن ترعرع Arthur Arbesserف فيينا وتد ّرب ف بتاحفها ومقاهيها ولكونها مهد حركة Wiener Werkstätte Central Saint Martinsف لندن ،بات اسمه مدرجاً عل لئحة الصممي النمساويي الصاعدين .أطلق علمته التجارية ف ميلنو كل البعد عن الفنية الؤث ّرة تشكّل مكان عمل حضاريّاً وملهمً بعيدا ً ّ سنة 2013بعد أن عمل 7أعوام ف دار .Armaniيشتهر بخياطته صخب الدن الكتظّة وضوضائها. التي تعكس ل مبالة جاذبة وفاز بجائزة Who Is On Nextمن بحسب وصف أحد الص ّممي الذين اتخذوا من فيينا مقرا ً لهم .Vogue Italia/Altaromaتعكس مجموعاته وعروضه الثقافة وبدؤوا يكتسبون شهرة عل الساحة العالية “ PetarPetrovل النمساوية فهو يستخدم نسيجاً مقاوماً للمء ويستوحي تصاميمه تقتص أفضل جوانب فيينا عل العال التاريخية والسياح ،فالدينة وزينة الصالت من ف ّن .Werkstätte تزخر بثقافة حديثة وديناميكية تخّضت عن هذا الحيط الحافظ”. باختطلط الفناني م“ الصممي والصانعي ف فيينا– بن فيهم وتخصص ولد Petrovف أوكرانيا وترعرع ف بلغاريا ّ ف تصميم الزياء ف جامعة الفنون التطبيقية ف فيينا مصممي الرسو– والياميك والجوهرات والصورين ،استحالت الدينة UniversitätfürAngewandteKunst Wienالعروفة بـ نقطة تلقٍ مش ّوقة لك ّنها ل تصبح صاخبة بعد .فعل الستوى .Die Angewandteاستفاد من نخبة العلّمي الذين د ّرسوا ف العمل ،تساهم أسعار إيجارات الحلت والستوديوهات النخفضة هذه الجامعة بن فيهم Viktor HorstingوRolf Snoeren ف زيادة جاذبية الدينة لرواد العمل .وتعكس اللبس التي ت ُباع مؤسسا دار Viktor & Rolfو Raf Simonsالذي يعمل الن بالتجزئة البعد التقليدي والبعد التجدد التناقضَ ي .وفيم يقدّ– محل يتجل تأث ّر Petrovببادئ مديرا ً إبداعياً لدار Diorف باريسّ . Goldenes Quartierالواق“ ف مرك ٍز أُدرِج عل لئحة اليونسكو للتاث العالي مكانا ً رائعا ً للعلمات التجارية الكبى عل غرار Louis الحداثة ف فيينا ل سيّم بالواد الجيدة النوعية والتصاميم التقليدية حي الدينة الساب“ Neubauإل واضحاً ف عمله الذي بات مح ّط النظار منذ أن أطلق علمته التجارية Vuittonو ،Gucciتح ّول ّ النطقة التي تجذب الصممي والخياطي اليافعي .فللمنطقة الصديقة الخاصة عام .2005 خاص بها يش ّج“ الشكات الحليّة. “بالنسبة إ ّ” ،ل وجود لفهوم رفاهية يكن تلخيصه ببضعة الرتكزة عل الجتم“ موق ٌ“ الكتون ّ كل ما يخطر بالبال بدءا ً بسجاد ومفروشات وتض ّم هذه الحلت ّ كلمت .بالطب“ ،تساهم القمشة الفاخرة واللوان والواد الستخدمة Beate von Hartenالصنوعة يدويا ً وصولً إل نظارات Brillen ف رف“ قيمة النتج ،لك ّنني أحاول أن أص ّمم بنا ًء عل فكرت الشخصيّة Manufakturالصنوعة حسب الطلب ومركز Arnold’sالذي التي ك ّونتها عن الرأة الحديثة التميّزة بديناميكيتها وأناقتها .أحب تُباع فيه علمات تجارية مختلفة. الرأة التي تلعب بأنوثتها من دون أن تخفي جانبها الذكري ،فكثية تقول “ :Petrovل تشكّل الدينة أفضل مكان لتطوير شبكة هي التصاميم التي استوحيتها من اللبس الرجالية .أ ّما القاسم معارفك ،لكن لذلك جوانب إيجابية .فالج ّو مريح للغاية هنا ”.ول ّ شك الشتك بي زبائني فهو الستقللية والشخصية الفريدة واليل نحو توصل إل فرض أ ّن جودة الحياة قد تح ّولت اليو– إل ميزة بح ّد ذاتها. الجهول ”.ف مجموعته لخريف/شتاء ّ ،2015/2016 petarpetrov.com ،arthurarbesser.com ،7tm.at توازن دقيق بي تناني الجلد ذات الطبقات والعاطف الطويلة باللون الزرق الفاتح والفساتي عل شكل قمصان حريرية والفرو الفاخر. When You Shop The World, عل م ّر العوام ،تع ّرفت نساء ناجحات عل تصاميم ،Petrovمن Shop Tax Free: 43 بينه ّن أفضل مطلقات الصيحات عل غرار Louise Neriمديرة عندما تتس ّوق حول العال ،تس ّوق من دون دف“ الضيبة Gagosian Galleryف نيويورك. تشكّل جامعة Die Angewandteأرضاً خصبة للزياء والف ّن تقدّ– لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دف“ أيضاً فمنها تخ ّرج Helmut Langو RoshiPorkarالص ّممة الضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من 270,000 الصاعدة التحدّرة من فيينا .تقول الخية“ :ترد هذه الجامعة عل لئحة أقدم جامعات الفنون الوروبية وفيها التدريب صعب .ل تتمتّ“ متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال. فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دف“ فيينا بهويّة تصميم جمعية ،إنّ ا التغذية الفنية التي تقدّمها لك غنيّة ”.بعد أن تخ ّرجت ،Porkarبدأت العمل لدى الصمم Karl كل سنة؟ ما عليك إل الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blue Templarف نيويورك ث ّم انتقلت للعمل م“ AlberElbazف دار .Lanvinبفضل عشقها للتأثيات الثلثية البعاد والقمشة الجميلة ،وتتب“ خطواتنا السهلة.
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SAY IT LOUD This statement piece by Viennese accessories brand And I is made from gold-coloured anodised aluminium and black elastic. When worn, the simple prongs of the necklace sit just above the collar and look stunning against a plain silk blouse. And I was founded by Andreas Eberharter in 2001, and came to international attention when several pieces were used in Thierry Mugler’s men’s fashion Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 43
show for autumn/winter 2010/11; one of its eye patches also featured in the music video for Lady Gaga’s Paparazzi. Trained as a goldsmith and sculptor, Eberharter has garnered various awards over the years, with the Vienna Awards for Fashion and Lifestyle naming him Best Accessories Designer in 2010 and Best Designer Branding in 2012. th And I aluminium necklace, €195, Mak Design Shop, Stubenring 5, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 7113 6228, and-i.com
PHOTO: FELIX VRATNY
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Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie and Hugh Jackman Crafted for New Heights In homage to the European explorer and his need for utmost precision, Montblanc pays special tribute with the Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Quantième Complet Vasco da Gama Special Edition featuring a full calendar and a blue lacquered constellation around the moon phase, which shows the exact same night sky above the Cape of Good Hope as Vasco da Gama observed it in 1497 on his frst journey to India. Visit and shop at Montblanc.com