HAMBURG | ГАМБУРГ | 汉堡 | هامبورغ
HAMBURG Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2015/16
Page 44
Neuer Wall and its brightest boutiques
Hamburg Jungfernstieg 25
Willkommen bei Bucherer, ein Schweizer Traditionsunternehmen und eines der führenden Häuser für Uhren und Schmuck in Europa. In unserem Hamburger Geschäft am Jungfernstieg erwartet Sie eine große Auswahl an Luxus-Uhrenmarken sowie exquisite Schmuckstücke und ein erstklassiger Service. Welcome to Bucherer,
WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS
a Swiss company with a long tradition and one of the leading establishments for watches and jewellery in Europe. In our Hamburg store directly at Jungfernstieg you will find a broad selection of luxury watch brands and exquisite jewellery, as well as first-class service.
Patek Philippe is available at the following Bucherer stores: Berlin Friedrichstraße 179, Frankfurt Kaiserstraße 1 and Munich Residenzstraße 11.
Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com
und viele mehr and many more
Te Alsterhaus, situated on Hamburg’s Jungfernstieg waterfront boulevard and overlooking the Alster lake, is one of the world’s leading department stores. Since 1912, the Alsterhaus has been at the forefront of style and luxury with over 24,000 m2 of retail foor space. Te Alsterhaus represents the international lifestyle by ofering its customers exceptional fashion, beauty and home & living trends as well as food beverages. Numerous shop-in-shops spread over 6 sales foors take the shopper on a journey to the world’s great shopping metropolises, offering its clientele a retail experience of the frst degree. Te Alsterhaus is steeped in historical ambience and looks back on a more than one hundred year-old history, comparable to Harrods in London or Galeries Lafayette in Paris. Since the very beginning, this traditional Hamburg department store has been one of Germany’s leading department stores.
On the Alsterhaus basement level the customers will fnd a unique selection of masterfully crafed writing instruments, a ticket shop and a customer service. Highlights of our customer service include a cloakroom, tailoring, personal shoppers, global shipping and beauty lounges.
In the Alsterhaus beauty department spread over 1,500 m², customers will fnd the luxury brands, newcomer fragrances and innovative cosmetics. Fashion accessories from major international brands can also be found on the ground foor.
Te frst and second foor at Alsterhaus offer a modern selection of fashion brands for women and men as well as a hairdresser. A special highlight is our premium lounge private shopping area with a stupendous view over the Alster lake.
On the third floor you will find an incomparable assortment of the finest women’s undergarments and lingerie as well as home and living accessories, Kid’s Fashion such as leather goods and luggage. In addition you can visit the newly opened Apartment featuring the most recent interior design trends.
The 4th floor invites true gourmets to sample a veritable cornucopia of wines and delicacies in our gourmet boulevard, as well as one-of-a-kind Veuve Clicquot champagne bar. Our culinary specialists at our LeBufet restaurant prepare meals in front of guests. Another Highlight: Te japanese restaurant Yoshi ofers delicious food that can be enjoyed on the beautiful terrace with a splendid view over Hamburgs roofops.
S E RV I C E S
TIME IS A LUXURY NOWADAYS, SO LET US MAKE TIME FOR YOU!
PERSONAL SHOPPER We will happily provide you with a Personal Shopper who will accompany, serve and expertly advise you throughout your visit to Alsterhaus. Our VIP Service specialists will make your shopping trip into a unique individual experience. We cater specifcally to your personal preferences, ideas and wishes. Afer an informal discussion and a thorough image consultation, we compile an exclusive selection just for you, from which you can pick out and try on your favourite items. Enjoy your visit to our store in a private atmosphere & with a sparkling glass of champagne or a stimulating espresso. For further information, please contact us on +49 40 3590 1677 or E-Mail: vip-service@alsterhaus.de
In addition, the Alsterhaus is delighted to ofer you many other exclusive services, such as:
TOURS OF THE LEGENDARY ALSTERHAUS Explore the legendary Alsterhaus and learn lots of interesting things, from its beginnings to the department store’s presence today. We would like to accompany you and your guests on an individual tour, which ofers you an introduction to an unforgettable shopping experience. Simply call our VIP Service to book your personal tour.
CLOAKROOM AND LUGGAGE STORAGE You can leave your coats and jackets as well as your shopping free of charge in the lockers on the Lower Ground Floor.
GIFT-WRAPPING SERVICES Out expertise is to make even the smallest gif stand out. A gif-wrapping service is available at all Alsterhaus checkouts. We are happy to wrap free of charge any items purchased at our store, using our luxury Alsterhaus gif paper.
BEAUTY LOUNGES & SERVICES Te exclusive wellness & treatment area provides relief from the stresses of the day and beckons you into the world of the senses. Indulge yourself with the latest treatments and professional services that are available from our beauty specialists in our beauty lounges. In addition, whether you need a wellness manicure and pedicure or a new Make-up, all beauty treatments are carried out at Alsterhaus with total care and professionalism. For further information contact our Beauty Department.
MADE-TO-MEASURE SHIRTS Eton, van Laack and Jacques Britt – design your own custom-made shirt. Choose from over 450 exklusive cotton fabrics and a unique selection of collar and cuf styles to create your personal shirt – for business or leisure. Visit us on the 1st foor. Please call +49 40 3590 1677 to arrange an appointment.
COMPLIMENTARY WIFI Simply log-in while you are visiting the Alsterhaus and enjoy complimentary wireless internet connection for up to 3 hours.
CUSTOMER SERVICES If there is a problem with your purchase in Alsterhaus, we will do everything possible to correct the situation quickly, simply and to your fullest satisfaction. Should you have any questions, suggestions or complaints, our customer services on the Lower Ground Floor are always willing to listen. Our top priority is to fulfl your every wish and to always do better for you.
TAX FREE AVAILABLE AT EACH CASH POINT. Currency choice available, which allows you to pay in your own currency.
ALSTERHAUS Hamburg · Jungfernstieg 16 – 20 · 20354 Hamburg Phone: +49 40 3590 10 · Fax: +49 40 3590 1310 · Email: service@alsterhaus.de Opening Hours: Mon - Sat 10 am - 8 pm · www.alsterhaus.de
BRANDS
Discover a wide selection of international brands, such as ...
CHRIST jewellers and watchmakers in Hamburg 2x Alstertal Einkaufszentrum · Mönckebergstraße 18 · Europa-Passage · Elbe-Einkaufszentrum Spitaler Straße 32 · Wandsbek Quarree · Phoenix-Center (Harburg) · Eppendorfer Landstraße 77 (inside Karstadt)
CHRIST DIAMONDS કDŽ 200 䒐 CHRIST ϧप刧𗥓偹ᖋ㊁ˈ ҹܼᮄᮍᓣᛳফ儙⅙
www.christ.de
CHRIST ᇞѿ𑀗𖠗 0180/5 32 10 98˄ᖋ㊁ᴀ㌲㉸𖠗䗮ֵ𗅶𗅥 ᖋ㊁ᴀ㌲㉸𖠗䗮ֵ𗅶𗅥 0.14 ܗ ܗ/ߚ䩳 ߚ䩳˗ ⿏ⅲ𑀗𖠗𗅶𗅥玀𠙒 0.42 ܗ ܗ/ߚ䩳˅ ߚ䩳˅*ଂӋ呥𖠢 ଂӋ呥𖠢 ** ⱑ㡆ǃᇣ╙ݙ⠽⡍呡ǃӬ㡃ߛ偉
▔垅DŽᖋ㊁ࠊ䗴DŽ
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EDITOR’S LETTER Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen
Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera
دليل ألانيا 德国指南
Германия
Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this vibrant port city. Hamburg has much to ofer, as our guide on page 67 reveals. Readers who appreciate the very latest in jewellery design will enjoy our feature on new trends (page 50), and in this issue we also profle Alexander Brenninkmeijer, founder of the chic, afordable label Clemens en August. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Hamburg. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
/globalblue
@GlobalBlue
/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu
@shopcontent
巴黎
Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Vilnius /globalblue
ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN
Welcome to Hamburg
Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Japan Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Malaysia Milan Munich Nuremburg Oslo Paris
OYS TER PERPE TUAL DATE JUS T 31
Beauty and more … visit Europe’ No. 1 perfumery! W E W I L L B E P L E A S E D TO W E LC O M E YO U TO T H E D O U G L A S W O R L D O F B E AU T Y I N H A M B U RG : ∙ Mönckebergstraße 8 / Spitalstraße 7, 040 - 326734 ∙ Neuer Wall 1-5 / Jungfernstieg 7, 040 - 343614
Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories. With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers. Explore our world of beauty!
HAMBURG MÖNCKEBERGSTRASSE Welcome to Hamburg, the lifestyle capital of the north. Enjoy your stay in a city where history and modernity go hand in hand. You will find the GALERIA Kaufhof shopping paradise in the heart of the city on Mönckebergstraße, right next to the main railway station. Visit GALERIA Kaufhof and be inspired by the wide variety of products from famous brand name manufacturers, the excellent service and the fabulous atmosphere. If you come from a country outside the EU, please enjoy taxfree shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof! We look forward to seeing you!
Please scan the QR-code with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Hamburg, Mönckebergstrasse.
GALERIA Kaufhof... ... makes you fall in love with Germany
GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne
galeria-kaufhof.de
In the mood for fashion?
Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices. visit us: www.canda.com facebook.com/ca Hamburg Mönckebergstraße 9 • Altona Mercado-Center • Wandsbek Quarree
Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам.
هل أنت راغب بآخر الصيحات؟ ، ستجدون لدينا أخر صيحات الموضة.C&A إذا ستسعد بما تقدمه محلت وماعليكم إل أن تتمتعوا بالتسوق في.من ملبس السبور إلى قمة الناقة لقد عودنا زبائننا الكرام على تشكيلة واسعة من ملبس السيدات.محلتنا . والرجال والطفال ذات النوعية العالية وبأفضل الثمان
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ILLUSTRATION: TELEGRAMME
CONTRIBUTORS
Dominique Fenn Dominique Fenn is a writer and creative consultant specialising in luxury fashion and lifestyle. She currently works for the Dazed Group and has previously contributed to i-D magazine and AnOthermag.com. globalblue.com
Beth Druce Fashion and luxury writer Beth Druce also works as a consultant for luxury fashion companies. She holds an MA from Central Saint Martins in London. Beth delights in documenting diverse and quickly evolving trends.
Telegramme Telegramme design studio, founded by Bobby Evans, created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Hamburg. Its eye-catching artwork has previously been commissioned by Warner Music, the Guardian, Condé Nast, Penguin Books and some of the biggest names in popular music, among others. Its designers’ ability to take a complex concept and turn it into an engaging composition makes Telegramme the perfect choice for this cover, inspired by our feature about Hamburg’s Neuer Wall area on page 44. It shows Neuer Wall’s distinctive Christmas lights, which feature as the cover line. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
Josh Sims Freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims contributes to publications that include the Financial Times, Independent, Observer, Wallpaper and Esquire. His latest book is Icons of Women’s Style, published in April 2015.
SWATCH STORE Jungfernstieg 7
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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Telegramme Contributors Beth Druce, Dominique Fenn, Maria Kirchen-Hill, Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Production assistant Katie Muxworthy Features editor Verity Hogan City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/ deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Charlotte Rogers Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Simon Thompson Artworking assistants Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Tom Knight
PU BL ISH I NG Publisher James Morris
Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Online production assistant Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang Chinese translators Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Aiyang Zou Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov
GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Head of commercial Europe/Latin America Pier Francesco Nervini Head of commercial Central Europe Ronald Christen Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Sales manager Pino Dufter Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Hamburg Tourismus GmbH, Steinstrasse 7, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3005 1300, hamburg-tourism.de
Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Gemma Latham Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak Commercial artworking intern Kiranjeet Kaur AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Production assistant Sammy Ha Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution and partnerships manager Lara Osuna
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue
pandora.net © 2015 PANDORA Jewelry GmbH | Hans-Duncker-Straße 14 | 21035 Hamburg
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CONTENTS
PHOTO: WOLFGANG STAUDT CC BY-NC 2.0
p.44
P ROD U C T S 32 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Hamburg this season 34 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N EWS 40 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Hamburg 41 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products F E AT U R E S 44 Cover Story: Hamburg’s Hot Spot Neuer Wall presents a wealth of designer fashion and high-end jewellery boutiques. It’s a luxury shopping favourite, says Beth Druce 50 To The Max Oversized jewellery dominated many of the collections this autumn/winter. Dominique Fenn fnds out why bigger has become better 56 Branching Out His family founded the retail giant C&A and now Alexander Brenninkmeijer runs a chic and afordable fashion label of his own, as Josh Sims discovers Above: Kleine Alster canal on the southern side of Neuer Wall
E X PE R I E NCE 62 Café Society Hamburg is a signifcant hub of the global cofee trade and this is refected in the city’s wealth of vibrant cafés. Theresa Harold takes a tasting tour of the best GU I DE 67 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Hamburg ESSENTI A LS 76 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S 78 Русский Перевод 84 美文翻译 89 SOU V E N I R 90 The essential item to bring home
At Karstadt sports in Hamburg, am Am Hauptbahnhof
32 | P RO D U C T S
CHECK OUT
ALL TIED UP German premium brand Sieger has released a new collection of ties called Wicapi. Featuring unusual geometric shapes and colour combinations, the collection takes inspiration from Native American culture – in fact, wicapi is a Native American term meaning star. The dark colours and subtle details of these ties will smarten up any outft. Choose from patterns such as houndstooth or star mosaics Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76
in shades of blue, grey, olive green and deep red. Made from 100% silk woven in Italy, these ties are exclusively handcrafted in Germany. The family-run label of Christian and Michael Sieger follows traditions of German perfectionism which have been combined with a colourful spirit of the Mediterranean to create a thoroughly modern brand. th Sieger silk ties, â‚Ź119 each, JF Flebbe, Eppendorfer Baum 7, 20249 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 476679, sieger-germany.com
LEADING WOMENSWEAR BRANDS AND COLLECTIONS HAMBURG ALSTERTAL-EINKAUFSZENTRUM MONDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 10 AM - 8 PM HAMBURG MÖNCKEBERGSTRASSE 15 MONDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 10 AM - 8 PM
34 | P RO D U C T S
TRAVEL IN STYLE Stay chic and comfortable with this perfect airport outft
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1. Escada wool coat, €1,399, Escada, Grosse Bleichen 23-27, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 363296, escada.com
3. Closed jeans, €199, Closed, Bergstrasse 11, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3039 2196, closed.com
2. Marc Cain hat, €39.90, Marc Cain, Neuer Wall 52, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3609 0189, marc-cain.com
4. Salvatore Ferragamo heels, €1,690, Salvatore Ferragamo, Neuer Wall 41, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 378 5360, ferragamo.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76
5. Hurraw lip balm, €5.90, American Apparel, Jungfernstieg 51, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3070 3892, hurrawbalm.com
S H O P | 35
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6. Sportmax handbag, €1,189, Max Mara, Neuer Wall 25, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3750 0150, maxmara.com
globalblue.com
7. Roeckl scarf, €289, Roeckl, Grosse Bleichen 36, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 343418, roeckl.com
8. Rimowa Salsa Deluxe wheeled suitcase, €499, Rimowa, Neuer Wall 10, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3003 9160, rimowa.com
36 | P RO D U C T S
STYLISH HERITAGE These classic products from seminal brands will stand the test of time
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1. Diesel jumper, €160, Diesel, Poststrasse 14-16, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3500 4710, diesel.com
3. Victorinox Swiss Army Classic Alox knife, €37, Altonaer Silber Werkstatt, Holstenstrasse 188-194, 22765 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3861 4858, victorinox.com
5. Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Exotic Leather fragrance, 150ml, €375, Dolce & Gabbana, Neuer Wall 80, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3006 9660, dolcegabbana.com
2. Louis Vuitton backpack, €2,160, Louis Vuitton, Neuer Wall 37, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 344740, louisvuitton.com
4. Montblanc TimeWalker Urban Speed e-Strap watch, €4,990, Montblanc, Neuer Wall 18, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 351175, montblanc.com
6. Burberry Prorsum scarf, €395, Burberry, Neuer Wall 36, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 345856, burberry.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76
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PHOTOS: (2) LOUIS VUITTON; (8) © J BARBOUR & SONS LTD/BRIAN YOUNG
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7. Eton shirt, €149, Alsterhaus, Jungfernstieg 16-20, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 359010, etonshirts.com
globalblue.com
8. Barbour International gloves, €79.90, Anson’s, Mönckebergstrasse 8, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 328 1701, barbour.com
9. Tod’s loafers, €385, Tod’s, Neuer Wall 41, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 8222 4747, tods.com
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PHOTO: © GIULIANA ANSELMI
SHOP WINDOW
MORE FOR MEN Luxury menswear specialist Braun, which has two handsome stores in the heart of Hamburg, ofers a wide array of clothing and accessories from more than 140 of the world’s top labels. Year-round, its expert team is on the hunt for the best in high-end menswear, scouring the world for the best collections and the latest trends. As well as ready-to-wear by everyone from Adriano Goldschmied to Z Zegna, Braun has an exclusive in-house tailor’s studio where exacting gentlemen can have their purchases altered on-site, or even Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76
organise a totally made-to-measure piece. Still in the hands of the eponymous founding family, Braun is committed to quality and to unsurpassed client service, with expert members of staf always on hand to give each visitor the best experience possible. mkh Braun, Grosse Bleichen 27, 20354 Hamburg; * for map go to page 71 Mönckebergstrasse 17, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3344 7133, braun-hamburg.com * for map go to page 74
S H O P | 41
ELEGANT AESOP Presenting a wealth of botanical hair and skincare products, Hamburg’s frst Aesop store opened in early 2015. It is set in a protected historic building in the stylish neighbourhood of ABC-Viertel and its interior design features natural materials such as untreated European oak shelves and blue stone fooring, resulting in a boutique as understated and stylish as one would expect from the Australian brand. Covering 112 square metres, the shop also contains the frst Aesop facial treatment room in Europe. In this purpose-built space, clients can choose from six treatments given by in-house therapists. A perfect way to rejuvenate and nourish the skin, the facials last from 60 to 90 minutes. th Aesop, Poststrasse 22, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3499 3636, aesop.com * for map go to page 70
DENIM DELIGHTS Ralph Lauren’s Denim & Supply has opened in a historic building in Hamburg. This is its second store in Germany and its biggest in Europe. It features a wide selection of women’s and men’s clothing, accessories and premium denim. The brand’s unique approach to denim is evident throughout the store, mixing American heritage with bohemian and nautical styles. The result is a buzzing, youthful atmosphere, with denim rugs, vintage reclaimed furniture and wooden foors. fm Denim & Supply, Mönckebergstrasse 7, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3808 0660, ralphlauren.com * for map go to page 74 globalblue.com
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SAY IT WITH DIAMONDS Inspired by the style of the 1920s, Bucherer presents its latest collection of fne jewellery, Vive Elle. The art deco-infuenced range comprises around 20 pieces, including earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings. Featuring exquisite materials such as white gold, platinum and diamonds, the collection fuses Bucherer’s heritage of excellence in craftsmanship with the zest for life that characterised the Roaring Twenties. This delicate necklace is formed from the collection’s central design element: a stylised fgure eight. Reminiscent of the symbol for eternity, it is derived from the company’s founding in 1888. hl Bucherer, Jungfernstieg 25, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 343467, bucherer.com * for map go to page 72
BEST OF BOTH Inspired by the spirit of Paris, the latest womenswear collection from Strenesse adds a German touch to classic French style. Androgynous silhouettes are given a feminine edge with soft textures, bold colours and prints, as seen in the super-cosy coats which are available in a wide range of colours and prints, from classic black and navy to glamorous leopard print. Boxy suits have been given a modern makeover with wide fared trousers which can be paired with masculine loafers. Simple yet standout accessories complete the collection so, with everything you need to get you through the colder months, Strenesse could be your one-stop shop for a capsule winter wardrobe. mkh Strenesse, Heegbarg 33, 22391 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 6029 8346, strenesse.com Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76
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PHOTO: MIKE HILLEBRAND
PARTNERS IN TIME
STAR TURN G-Star Raw’s fagship store ofers three foors of innovative and diverse denim looks and fts. The shop presents the largest collection of G-Star Raw in north Germany. Founded in 1989, the Dutch fashion company has truly made a name for itself in the realm of casualwear. Its new store includes a denim wall that presents a wide range of styles: from skinny to tight, raw to distressed, dark or light, trend-led or classic. The Hamburg fagship provides a clean, streamlined experience, with knowledgeable brand ambassadors on hand to help fnd your perfect ft. th G-Star Raw, Bergstrasse 17, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 5330 2790, g-star.com * for map go to page 72 globalblue.com
July saw the launch of an exclusive Patek Philippe boutique in Hamburg. Opened in connection with fne jewellery and watch specialist Wempe, one of Germany’s most prestigious brands, the store represents the joint knowledge and experience of two world leaders in the feld of fne timepieces. The two brands have worked closely since 1927, and in 2003 Swiss brand Patek Philippe even created a special watch to celebrate Wempe’s 125th anniversary. The showroom displays a wide selection of Patek Philippe’s exemplary watches. Members of staf are true watch experts and enthusiasts who are only too happy to help visitors fnd the perfect timepiece. hl Patek Philippe, Neuer Wall 5, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 6360 76919, patek.com, wempe.com * for map go to page 72
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Above: Kleine Alster canal on the southern side of Neuer Wall
PHOTO: WOLFGANG STAUDT CC BY-NC 2.0
HAMBURG’S HOT SPOT
With its abundance of designer fashion and high-end jewellery boutiques, Neuer Wall is a luxury shopping favourite, says Beth Druce
When one thinks of Europe’s luxury shopping destinations Hamburg might not be the frst to come to mind. Yet in the district of Neustadt you’ll fnd that Neuer Wall has quietly established itself as an upmarket shopping quarter. Running from Jungfernstieg on Binnenalster (Inner Alster lake) to Stadthausbrücke, it is lined with fashion
PHOTO: SVEN SCHWARZE
46 | F E AT U R E S
houses and would rival any of the world’s exclusive shopping areas. ‘The high-end shopping district around Neuer Wall, with its streets spread out over a lattice of canals and bridges, is one of the most elegant in the country,’ noted Nick Foster in the Financial Times. More than one kilometre long, it was refurbished in 2006 and during the past nine years the number of shops has gradually increased. The southern half of the street in particular plays host to highfashion designer labels alongside interiors and furniture stores, cofee shops and restaurants. If your attention was caught by the printed and pastel-hued double-zip leather handbags that Miuccia Prada sent models sashaying down the catwalk with for autumn/winter 2015/16, Neuer Wall might be the perfect place to examine them further. Indeed, its selection of international brands, including Michael Kors, Mulberry and Longchamp, makes it ideal for those looking to make an accessories purchase. Louis Vuitton’s
The southern half of the street plays host to high-fashion designer labels
Above (clockwise from top lef): shopping district in the Neuer Wall quarter; Michael Kors store; Cartier cufinks; Prada Inside bag
PHOTO: (BOTTOM) VINCENT DE LA FAILLE - CARTIER
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super-furry leopard print handbags are perfect for those with more adventurous tastes. This area of Hamburg is also home to a number of jewellery houses, including esteemed names such as Cartier, Bulgari and Tifany & Co, as well as luxury horologists Omega and Montblanc. Take time to peruse a selection of elaborate pieces before heading to a café to enjoy a spot of food or a drink and to contemplate
such an investment. Café Engelchen is an elegant second-foor cofee house and with its large windows it is ideal for observing the welldressed clientele of Neuer Wall. Some of Hamburg’s oldest retailers can also be found on Neuer Wall, including the jeweller Brahmfeld & Gutruf, whose colourful and ornate pieces are studded with gemstones and full of quirky, nature-inspired motifs. The boutique is worth a visit for its distinctive interior alone; in 2014 it was awarded the Deutsche Lichtdesign Preis, the German lighting design award, for its innovative use of 48,000 LEDs which gives the efect of the changing colour of the Hamburg sky. While districts such as Neuer Wall are largely synonymous with fashion houses of an upmarket, luxury nature, recent years have seen the emergence of a new demographic of high-street labels that meld a boutique shopping experience with cutting-edge trends and a more afordable price structure. Cos and & Other Stories are two examples that have
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opened on Neuer Wall recently. The former ofers modern, pared-down collections built around well-edited colour palettes, while & Other Stories is a fashion and lifestyle space that is fun to browse ‒ its selection of clothing, jewellery, beauty and quirky accessories will keep you entertained for hours. Yet, what distinguishes Neuer Wall from other designer fashion districts is the plethora of furniture stores that are situated towards Stadthausbrücke. These include the Dutch brand Rivièra Maison which showcases interiors and soft furnishing collections that take inspiration from some of Europe’s most
stylish cities. Neuer Wall is also home to century-old homeware retailer Weitz, which has one of the fnest selections of porcelain in Hamburg. Trend-oriented visitors will fnd much to love in the Jil Sander store. The label was originally founded in Hamburg by Sander in 1968 but only gained prominence in the 1980s. Sander’s distinctive, regularly copied but never bettered signature style paved the way for 90s minimalism and remains a favourite among savvy dressers with an eye for sharp, understated clothing. The concept of a high-end international
Above (clockwise from lef): Rivièra Maison store; Omega Seamaster 300 Master CO-Axial Chronometer; Jil Sander autumn/winter 2015/16; Brahmfeld & Gutruf Sugarloaf necklace
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Neuer Wall integrates old-world European elegance with modern luxury in the form of Chanel, Prada and Bottega Veneta
shopping district could conjure images of impersonal spaces, but Neuer Wall’s integration of old-world European elegance with modern luxury in the form of Chanel, Prada and Bottega Veneta gives it great appeal. It’s increasingly defned by an ambience that is popular with visitors from far and wide. ‘Zig-zag among the narrower streets to the south and west, sizing up the luxury shops and well-heeled shoppers around Neuer Wall,’ advised Frank Bruni in The New York Times. Neuer Wall, it appears, is both a place to see and to be seen in neuerwall-hamburg.de
PHOTO: Š GORUNWAY.COM
TO THE MAX Oversized jewellery dominated many of the collections this autumn/winter. Dominique Fenn fnds out why bigger has suddenly become better
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T
here is something very comforting about the sound of bangles clinking together on a wrist, a melody of glorious silver and golden notes. And is there anything that conveys an impression of being well travelled better than exotic jewels and one-of-a-kind statement pieces that are guaranteed to start a conversation? In what was possibly a sign that the German minimalist normcore movement is fnally over, bold jewellery and crafted accessories made strong statements on the autumn/ winter 2015/16 catwalks. The normcore aesthetic is extremely low-key, stripped back and anti-style. It recently became a recognised unisex trend and is characterised by a simplifed, ‘normal’ sense of style, with a distinct lack of detail, allowing wearers to blend into the crowd rather than stand out from it. This season’s demonstrable change of direction
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Previous Page: Givenchy autumn/winter 2015/16
PHOTOS: Š GORUNWAY.COM; (NECKLACE) MATTHIAS HOFFMANN
Above (clockwise from top lef): Miu Miu; Marni; Proenza Schouler, all autumn/winter 2015/16; Niessing Phoenix collection necklace
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Oversized earrings looked like giant daisies with petals in white and pink
PHOTOS: Š GORUNWAY.COM
from the simplifed hues of black, grey and navy from a plethora of infuential international designers signifes a welcome return to showy style – at Proenza Schouler, one dress was decorated with 300,000 sequins. The real sense of change was noted in the fner details. Built over time, jewellery collections can tell a wonderfully unique story, and the tale for autumn/winter 2015/16 is loud and proud. When it comes to the over-arching trends for the season, the spirit of spring/summer 2015 lives on in forals and delicate, feminine fabrics, with Valentino, Marni and Alexander McQueen all ofering incredibly ethereal collections. It’s only natural that chunky and oversized pieces should balance this out. Trend forecaster extraordinaire Miuccia Prada took
inspiration from several decades for her latest Miu Miu collection, notably the 1960s through to the 90s, although it was the glitter and glam of the 80s that was most eye-catching. Oversized earrings looked like giant daisies with petals in yellow, white, red and pink. Every other pair was a drop design, with a crystalencrusted stone hanging from the fower. Matching necklaces completed the foral look. The Marni woman always exudes an air of adventure and for this season multi-stone earrings and sculptural bracelets in natural hues told of far-fung travels. At Givenchy, multiple septum rings and jewelled faux piercings were created by make-up artist Pat McGrath for each model. Although delicate pearls adorned their faces, this was a celebration of the strength of women portrayed through facial embellishment and the overall look was dramatic and aggressive. There was also a rebellious spirit at Balenciaga where designer Alexander Wang combined the traditional house codes with perhaps his most dramatic of visions for the brand so far. Ears were covered with layers of pearl earrings, and decorative crystal-
Above (from lef): Marni; Givenchy, both autumn/winter 2015/16
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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encrusted pieces on skirts and shoes added a fnishing touch of opulence. Of the catwalk, jewellery retail has also been rejuvenated. According to the trend and innovation experts at research frm Stylus, ‘interactive technology, both in-store and online, is adding seductive new layers of personalisation and education to jewellery retailing’. The high-tech and high-touch worlds are colliding, and the in-store experience is one that simply cannot be matched online. German watchmaker and jeweller Thomas Sabo says that life is too short for boring jewellery. A trip to one of his stores is a must for anyone who is a jewellery enthusiast and for whom this mantra rings true. His Karma beads and charms can be collected and pieces can be built up, with new charms added each season that can be used to create endless variations. For autumn/winter 2015/16 the brand is also ofering statement bangles with foral central motifs, and oversized cocktail rings with jewels
in winter berry shades. Another German brand ofering its own take on maximalist jewellery is Niessing. The Phoenix collection is an architectural delight in miniature form. Signifying eternally repeating cycles, numerous slender oval discs are connected to produce a necklace and a bracelet, available in gold or platinum. The Papyr necklace is another sculptural gem, and gives the impression of an elaborately folded golden paper chain. Trends in jewellery can go from minimalist and muted one season to overt and famboyant the next, and both international designers and home-grown German brands ofer their own interpretations of these looks. As the fnishing touch, it’s all about how these trend-led jewellery pieces are matched with outfts. To let these maximalist pieces shine, when it comes to your clothing think simple miumiu.com, marni.com, givenchy.com, balenciaga.com, thomassabo.com, niessing.com
Above (clockwise from top lef): Miu Miu; Thomas Sabo Karma Beads collection, both autumn/winter 2015/16; Thomas Sabo bracelet with a fower motif
PHOTO: XXXXXXX
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888 / 888
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Above: English caption xxxxx qui ofciducius ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi quis cum facil
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PHOTO: JOACHIM BALDAUF
His family founded the retail giant C&A and now Alexander Brenninkmeijer runs a fashion label of his own. It’s chic and afordable, as Josh Sims discovers
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It was perhaps inevitable that Alexander Brenninkmeijer would make a name for himself in fashion. But the minimalistic-chic aesthetic of the men’s and womenswear of his brand Clemens en August was probably not the direction many of his relatives might have expected him to take. Brenninkmeijer’s family was behind the German textiles and fashion retail giant C&A, which throughout the 70s and 80s pioneered a faster kind of cheerful fashion at everyman prices. At frst glance Brenninkmeijer’s label is as divorced from high-street fashion as might be expected from a line favoured by the diverse likes of actor James McAvoy, artist-flmmaker Sam Taylor-Johnson, model Claudia Schifer and architect Rem Koolhaas. Yet it’s born of Brenninkmeijer’s realisation that designer clothes need not be incredibly expensive.
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Brenninkmeijer tours with his collection each season, setting up shop for a few days in an art gallery or theatre
Previous page: Alexander Brenninkmeijer, Clemens en August founder
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‘There is a market for interesting clothes just as long as you don’t ask a lot of money for them,’ says the entrepreneur, who is currently building investment for major expansion. ‘In my situation I can sometimes aford to buy something more expensive. I might see that something is a nice piece of design but I’m not going to pay €2,000 for it. I’d rather take the risk of waiting for the sales and it still being in my size, which a lot of people do now.’ Brenninkmeijer should know. After a spell as ladies’ dresses and maternity-wear buyer for C&A, he was co-founder of the infuential Kostas Murkudis label. He says that often the pressure on prices is a consequence of rapidly rising property rents and stafng costs. At Clemens en August a signature sharp, modern classic men’s suit can be purchased for about €800, around half the cost that the Above (clockwise from lef): Clemens en August touring in DÜsseldorf; the brand’s menswear; the tour in Cologne
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equivalent quality item would be elsewhere. In order to keep prices down Brenninkmeijer has adopted a radical selling technique. You won’t fnd Clemens en August in the shops. Brenninkmeijer wanted to avoid buyers cherry-picking the most commercial pieces and breaking up the mood of a complete collection. Nor does Clemens en August have its own stores anywhere. It simply can’t aford a prestigious fagship ‒ not, at least, without a price hike for its clothes. Instead Brenninkmeijer tours with his collection each season, setting up shop for a few days in an art gallery or theatre. He is currently visiting London, Zürich, Vienna, Hamburg, Cologne and four other major German cities. Fans are advised in advance to put the dates in their diaries, come along ‒ or rather dash, since each piece is made in limited numbers ‒ Above (clockwise from top lef): Clemens en August touring in Kunstverein München in Munich; two looks from the collection; the brand’s womenswear
S H O P | 61
and buy for the season. ‘It’s personal, people get to know each other, and they get to see the fabrics up close, what makes them special. There’s a private members’ club mentality,’ he says. Of course, it does not do Clemens en August any harm that this semi-restricted access also gives the label cachet. ‘We’re very much focused on the product and operate kind of of-the-grid,’ he explains. It creates, he says, an insider edge and this works well ‘because in fashion we often want most what we can’t get. Of course, there are other brands that are much cheaper than us,’ he adds ‘but they don’t have the cut, the fabrics or the feel. And we can focus on all that because we don’t have the usual fashion brand overheads. Back when we started we thought of trying to open just one spectacular store but reckoned it would cost around €10m. We ended up inviting
friends and their friends to come along and see if they liked what we were designing. We still didn’t have a name for the brand then. But it all sold in one evening.’ Yet Clemens en August is closer to the ethos of the family business than is perhaps obvious. Go back to the very origins of the C&A name and you discover a pair of brothers, Messrs Clemens and August, the company founders from whom Brenninkmeijer takes his label’s name. These two started what in 1841 became the pan-European giant by making clothes and selling them in their own of-beat way, too: shop-less, they would travel from region to region and sell high-quality fabrics direct to cash-strapped farmers. Clemens en August does much the same today, only its customers are likely to dress better clemensenaugust.com
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CAFÉ SOCIETY Hamburg is a signifcant hub of the global cofee trade and this is refected in the city’s wealth of vibrant cafés. From a charming old dairy shop to the outlet of an artisan roastery, Theresa Harold takes a tasting tour of the best
Cofee frst arrived in Germany in the 17th century, and for centuries its consumption was synonymous with wealth. Fast forward to today and it is the nation’s most popular drink across all sectors of society. Germans now drink more cofee than beer. According to the most recent fgures from the Deutscher Kafeeverband (German Cofee Association) the average resident consumes 165 litres of cofee a year. Hamburg’s cofee culture is particularly vibrant. The city is one of the most signifcant trading and distribution points for cofee beans in Europe. Every year, more than a million tons of cofee passes through the city’s port, of which half stays in Germany and the rest is exported to other European countries. So it is little wonder that Hamburg ofers a wealth of options for enjoying cofee from around the world. Here, there are artisanal espresso bars, old-fashioned cafés, independent cofee roasters and even a museum devoted to the bean. One quintessential German experience that shouldn’t be missed is the ritual of Kafee und Kuchen, which translates as ‘cofee and cake’. As integral as the cofee is to the experience, so too is the cake, and happily Hamburg is amply supplied with venues that excel at both. globalblue.com
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L E BE AU VOI SI N Isabelle Guillot-Vignot brings a touch of Paris to Hamburg with her cafĂŠ Le BeauVoisin, which opened in the autumn of 2013. Serving speciality cofees, fne teas and homemade cakes, this is a cosy establishment. Its small terrace is the perfect spot to enjoy a lazy weekend brunch. During the week, there is an ever-changing lunch menu ofering light meals such as brie and mushroom quiche or seasonal vegetable soups. Le BeauVoisin, Ulmenstrasse 2, 22299 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 7308 6474, lebeauvoisin.de
PHOTO: SILKE SCHMIDT
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ELBGOLD The Elbgold mission is simple: to serve the best cofee possible. To this end, the company’s buyers visit the world’s fnest cofee plantations to acquire high-quality arabica beans, which are then roasted by hand at Elbgold’s roastery in Hamburg. Customers can sample all the globalblue.com
cofees at its café on Mühlenkamp. The drinks are made with fresh country milk or lactosefree and soy alternatives. There are also freshly baked breads and cakes to enjoy, as well as tea, juice or even wine. Elbgold, Mühlenkamp 6A, 22303 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 2788 2223, elbgold.com
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STOCKHOLM ESPRESSO CLUB
The passion for cofee is palpable at Stockholm Espresso Club. It’s not just the fact that every cup is weighed and its temperature taken before being served to the customer, it’s the evident pride the team members take in their job. What makes the cofee here diferent from other options available in the city is that it has a lighter roast – much like the cofee served in Scandinavia. This gives the drink a sweeter, fruitier taste and results in less bitterness. Stockholm Espresso Club, Peter-Marquard-Strasse 8, 22303 Hamburg, +49 (0)160 483 7361, stockholmespressoclub.de
HERR MAX Those with a sweet tooth should seek out the delights of Herr Max café and patisserie. Opened by husband and wife team Matthias and Julia Max, the café remains adorned with blue and white tiles from the days when the building was a dairy shop. Where possible,
ingredients are organic, and the cofee served is both organic and fair trade. To cater for customers with special requirements, there is always a small selection of vegan, gluten-free and lactose-free products. Herr Max, Schulterblatt 12, 20357 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 6921 9951, herrmax.de
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G U I D E | 67
GUIDE
PHOTO: MEDIASERVER.HAMBURG.DE/C. SPAHRBIER
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Hamburg with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from where to stock up on cosy winter layers to a tech store that should be browsed by all gadget lovers. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/hamburg.
A GLIMPSE OF HAMBURG Above: Hamburg’s fsh market is a famous and vibrant early-morning venue
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Place Of Interest
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Denim & Supply For the perfect pair of jeans, look no further than Ralph Lauren’s new Denim & Supply store. Denim & Supply, Mönckebergstrasse 7, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3808 0660, ralphlauren.com featured on page 41
Tourist Information
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Braun Stylish men should head straight for menswear specialist Braun, whose collection of upmarket international designers is hard to beat. Braun, Grosse Bleichen 27, 20354 Hamburg; Mönckebergstrasse 17, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 334 4733, braun-hamburg.com featured on page 40
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Niessing Embrace this season’s trend for maximalist jewellery at Niessing. Niessing, Marriott Hotel, ABC-Strasse 52, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3406 8939, niessing.com featured on page 50
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PL UT Gänsemarkt Passage AY FR UR ● AN E & ● JUWELIER BECKER CH K ● THOMAS I-PUNKT R ● POLO SYLT NI UD EAP ● TATE ES O ● SI L F ● OSKA HAMBURG ● NG ● ● M ANNETTE GÖRTZ ● ● ● U AR L ● S I ● K TR I S NA THE ABC SHOP ● ● U OK EN CH R PO NÜ O E NE INA STR S V T A B CLO Z O SE IDE L D ER N R I SPKNE O BE RT L M O DE N
BUTLERS DIVA TRAUMKLEIDER ELB HAMBURG GÄNSEMARKT PARFÜMERIE GÖRTZ 17 JUN GUYS & DOLLS LABEL & TRENDS LES PETITS MAISON DE PARIS MERCEDEH-SHOES PANDORA QUARTIER 50 SIGNUM STORE UHRZEIT.ORG
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Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue
SELECTED STORES IN GÄNSEMARKT PASSAGE:
Shopping Centre
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CONRAD
you’re looking for small accessories, a new computer or the latest communications technology, Conrad should be your frst port of call. Seek out one of its eminently knowledgeable resident experts and you might just fnd that perfect gadget you never even knew existed. Conrad, Wandsbeker Zollstrasse 67-69, 22041 Hamburg, +49 (0)9604 408789, conrad.de
Tech-lovers should not miss a visit to electronic specialist Conrad. Founded in 1923, the company now has 25 stores across Germany, including one in Hamburg, and the brand ofers more than 600,000 products, undoubtedly one of the widest ranges in the country. Global labels stocked include Apple, Microsoft, Samsung, Nikon, Logitech, Osram and a host of others. For both business and leisure, whether
Grosse Bleichen
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JO MALONE BY HAMBURGER HOF PARFÜMERIE ● JUWELIER HANSEN ● BASLER ● GOLFINO ● ● BÄR-BEQUEMSCHUHE MEPHISTO ● 1,2,3 ●
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CHARLOTTE HH FLECK MODELLHÜTE MONIKA STORE 4 KIDS WOHNGEFÜHL
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L
S
CH
SE
Bleichenhof SELECTED STORES IN BLEICHENHOF:
OS
EI
AS
BL
BUCKLES & BELTS ●
GR
L EB
TR
ÜCK E
Hanse Viertel TORQUATO ●
EN
S R NE ST B a N LU ri PO HE L D a lle IC RA G LE ie R HA EB er ● N E al SS RT r g T RO G Ä ise CH G ● Ka K N E EK E P.40 us I H ha N s U L OT N LY ● P U RS nn A A E a VE ● R L KE T B m IN & E ● BU uf A ÜC C ● Ka EE C BR R TR EN MA AB ● CR CH ● EI
USBR
BARBOUR BREE CHEZ ELLES DELSEY DOUGLAS EINS ZWEI DREI GRAF COX GÖRTZ HANSE HAUS HAMBURG CLASSICS JACQUES BRITT KIRCHHOFF DONNA KIRCHHOFF ESTABLISHED
KONPLOTT LACOSTE LA MODA LEYSIEFFER MOOTZ NOMINATION OPTIKER CARL PANDORA ROECKL SAHLING-BEST OF BEAUTY SANSIBAR SCHACHT & WESTERICH TABACALERA HANSEATICA TOTT VEGAS WMF BUBA SCHUH ●
HOHE B
SELECTED STORES IN HANSE VIERTEL:
SE
KT
JU
N
FE
RN
ST
IE
G
ST
ST
RA
SS
E
RG
ST
RA
SS
CLOSED ●
● BUTIK
E
RATH AU SSTR A SSE
PELZERSTR.
Department Store
Shopping Centre
BE
S C HA UE NBURGERSTR.
M
M
DA
G
PO
Featured In This Issue
Restaurant
HN
JO
●
B
RI
TE AL
Ö
GALERIE
M
Ö
BE KE C POSTER ● N
BE
L
AL
RW
E NK
M
SE
AS
TR
S RG
KE
NE
L
AL
W
R UE
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Global Blue Retailer
● BOGNER
U
NE
IN LL BA
M M DA WEMPE ● LLOYD ● TEE GSCHWENDNER ● SWATCH ● HEMDENSPEZI ● N MEISSEN ● DE CROCS ● KA GODIVA CHOCOLATIER ● R OREA LINGERIE ● E R A ALSTERARKADEN APOTHEKE ● ST BERNSTEINLADEN WALTER WITZKI ● AL
● CHRIST
L
AL
APPLE ● GEOX ●
EB SS
O GR
W ER
Alsterhaus
ROBBE & BERKING ● DONNA ●
EN CH I LE
P.43 G-STAR ● RAW
3 G P.4 IE ST PE S IP RN L A IL F E O U G K P HI L L E KE G E W D EL N ● PAT E Y O & O JU ● ● FR NG E ● M A DAG A OX ● ● L A MI NZZ G E E G AO ● ● B ● TU DE A O MS A AN ● ● C A L I D AU S O. A S F F MS S O ● ● CA H RS & C U O M HO R E OWA S ● ● NE LME NY TH S P IM OR P ● ● PA FA NE R L K AM R ● ● TIF S O AE H E ● ● F K C C NG CH G T I R U C ● ● RI R A MI O N O P T N ● N A L L O GU L A ES ● OH EL & TB RI R M XM TT O M ● MA GER VUI PB D N O IE M EL O ST RT ● GA ● UN IS C A M F MH E R C A R E ● RA ● LOU IS L T O RI ● AH ER ● O T KR RE ● BR GA N ● & Y S EF N A E N ● L AU ’ S TO R E B USL M AE I THZ E ●● ER IG G UT ES SS ● T O D VA A S WC H UA DAC I ●● ER ER PE E D R A W ● SAL S R C Y ND T LB R CH P ● G U R R T I ●● ER SA LE K A H RS TS C ST BE UT ÈS ● JIL ONC L A A R M PO OS PE P ● UR D M LL ● IE M O N B DA M ER TE PE C ● A EL V ● SI H A S M BU RÜ ● UW J A S R- C E L A G N A ● M N SB ● BE IG ZE SE A ● P H TO FA E W D O I C H I A N S ● OL LA N U ● IL N P VO A D MEL RD EG Ö N RO N T L A ● AF EN S LO MIE P ER IG N ● P O LFO 7 M S GR ● O L A DE R 4 ER K W Ø EC ● UX S Y ● FL LL RA N ER K E ANC BA HNE EL ÖLL AL M N ÜC BL ● Z T● ZE FA E FA S M LI BR NT E TA ● EL I P L BI ST EN MO A E ● K T T ● AR HA EL CH M CO S RÜ C EN E EI ÖB ● M L A EIN B A V BL I L● ● ET Y T EG PE AN S M OS RR RM TT ● TE ER BO LBE O A ● U GN GI M LI L OR ● GI ANE ● ● CH N AI ● ● T C C SE D ● AR O L & M N E RN H O L C EA ● ● G R O L I B O D A N NI L E ● B M T ● G A T. E G A N N I S IO BR R.
GST
LU N
AME
RENÉ LEZARD ●
Hamburger Hof
SELECTED STORES IN HAMBURGER HOF:
BUCHERER ● P.42
BREUNING TRAURINGLOUNGE FIL A FIL DANIELS & KORFF GERRY WEBER GÖRTZ 17 HAMBURGER HOF PARFÜMERIE KLOCKMANN LEVI’S PETITE POUPETTE SHOWROOM HAMBURG STARLIGHT FEINE DAMENWÄSCHE TABACALERA HANSEATICA TITAN REISEGEPÄCK TORQUATO
EM
SELECTED STORES IN ALSTERHAUS: HERMANN STEGMANN ● A R ● ROTH’S ALTE ENGLISH APOTHEKE DOUGLAS ● ● AMERICAN APPAREL LANGHAGEN & HARNISCH ● ● OPTIKER BODE ALLIGATOR LEDERWAREN ● SCHUHKAY ● ● NIVEA HAUS VERO MODA ● JEAND HEUR EMIL ● AUST DRESS ● TR CIRO ● A B C-S SCHUHHAUS PRANGE ● LIU JO ●
NS
GÄ
1,2,3 BREE BRIGITTE VON BOCH EYECATCHER H&M HUGO BOSS KARSTADT LONGCHAMP M NIEMYER OSCHÄTZCHEN IM ALSTERHAUS
AS
72 | G U I D E
Jungfernstieg & Alsterarkaden
Neuer Wall
S H O P | 73
RENÉ LEZARD When Thomas Schaefer founded the René Lezard label in 1978, he did so with the idea of creating a modern, design-led premium brand for men and women that used only the highest quality materials. This philosophy remains at the core of the latest autumn/ winter collection. In muted colours and with a relaxed silhouette, the pieces are elegant and stylish without being trend-driven. Warm fabrics such as cashmere and wool are used throughout the collection, giving the clothes an invitingly tactile look. Those seeking dressier items won’t be disappointed, as there are plenty of silk blouses, along with statement coats in foral jacquard. René Lezard, Jungfernstieg 34, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 419 1350, rene-lezard.com
Poststrasse
SE AS
NS ER GF UN
RJ UE
NE
PO
N
ST R A SSE
ST
G RN
E
FE
SS
N H E ● H&M
ST IE G
SE
IC
N
RA
R.
E BL
JU
ST
L E IC H E
KT
HOF
HOHE B
TIE
HS
SC BÜ
AR
PEAK PERFORMANCE ● CLOSED ● ● DIESEL TIMBERLAND ● ● HALLHUBER KONPLOTT ● COMMA ● STEFANEL ● ● GÖRTZ 17 TOM TAILOR ●
● CAMPER ● TOMMY HILFIGER ● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH STUART WEITZMANN ● ● ZARA FLORENCEMODA ●
GR
BL
OS
CH EN BR
ÜC KE
HAU S B R Ü C
● PEUTEREY ● PORSCHE DESIGN ● SAHLING
EI
S TA DT KE globalblue.com
GST
EM
GER
TR. STR A B C-
LU N
NS
ESPRIT ● A FELDENKIRCHEN ● BELLY BUTTON ● UMANI ●
N EU E-A BC S
GÄ
A FELDENKIRCHEN ●
AME
G
TR
.
VA L E N T I N S K A M P
● BOSS
L PUMA ● K A D AL R RA RW E TE U S NE AL
EN
BA
L
N LI
DA
M
M
74 | G U I D E
Mönckebergstrasse & Bergstrasse SELECTED STORES IN EUROPA PASSAGE:
GAMESTOP GÖRTZ H&M HALLHUBER HANDELSHAUS LÄGEL HÖGL SHOE FASHION HOLLISTER IDEE CREATIVMARKT INFLAGRANTE JACKPOT KULT L’OCCITANE MONSOON / ACCESSORIZE MORE & MORE OAKLEY ODLO ONE GREEN ELEPHANT PANDORA
AKTIV SCHUH BETTEN SASS BIANCO FOOTWEAR BIBA BENETTON BIJOU BRIGITTE BONITA BOSE CECIL CHRIST DOUGLAS ECCO EDC ETERNA GABOR-LLOYD
PAPETERIE BATHELT PILGRIM SIERCKE SCHMUCK STREET ONE STREET SUPER SHOES TALLY WEIJL TAMARIS TCHIBO TE THALIA THE HAIR COMPANY THEO WORMLAND TOM TAILOR TOMMY CRYSTAL TOMMY HILFIGER DENIM WMF ZERO
GL
O
CK
EN
GI
ES
SE
RW
AL
L
B
R SELECTED STORES IN AN DS KARSTADT: E
N
● ULRICH STEIN
D
SS
E
E 1,2,3 APRIORI BIBA DBH KARSTADT FEINKOST SWAROVSKI ST
RA
● EUROPA APOTHEKE
LI
BE
EN
● MALVIN ● FOTO-GREGOR ● SØR OSCAR LENIUS CLOSED DAMEN ● ● GÖRTZ 17 ● BUDNIKOWSKY IWAN
LI
RG
SS
A SS
STR IE N
Ü
ANSON’S ●
L IL
M
N
● SATURN
A SSE Galeria Kaufof
● KRAEMER
● PIMKIE
● ORSAY
Levantehaus
B U G ENH AG ENST R .
RE
● MÖ-CITY APOTHEKE
GSTR
H
DOUGLAS ●
IITTALLA ●
MAC ●
P.41
Featured In This Issue
● DENIM & SUPPLY ● C&A
E P EL
MARC O’ POLO MÄRKLIN MASSIMO DUTTI PRINCESSE TAM TAM SAHLING-BEST OF BEAUTY STEIFF GALERIE STRACOLAND SWAROVSKI TOWN HOUSE
STEIN STRA SSE
APRIORI BIBA PANDORA TABAKBÖRSE IM KAUFHOF N IE
PU
A SSE
DO
Global Blue Retailer
K EBER
E
SELECTED STORES IN GALERIA KAUFHOF
K AT T R
D STWIETE
BADEORT CALVIN KLEIN COMPAGNIE COLONIALE DER ERZGEBIRGSLADEN H -GALERIE JACKPOT
GÖRTZ ●
AppelrathCüpper
BR AN
A N DT-S T R
● ELSNER SCHUH ● ESPRIT FRIEDO ● WIESENHAVERN ● H&M ROLAND SE ● ● MANGO ● ADIDAS ● FOSSIL CHRIST ● ● WMF
R TO ER Karstadt ST
.
CH ENS TR .
W IL LY- B R
● BONITA ● FOOT LOCKER ● WEMPE HERRENAUSSTATTER ● BRAUN P.40 ● YVES ROCHER
STR
SELECTED STORES IN LEVANTEHAUS:
SE
ZARA ●
AL
IE D E RA
RAS
PETIT BATEAU ●
E
E
● THOMAS I-PUNKT
SCHM
● FIELMANN
● STADIUM
● CARL PREDIGER ● SNIPES
● JACK WOLFSKIN / GLOBETROTTER ● ANZUG-OUTLET
ST
GST
MONSOON/ACCESSORIZE ●
RA
BENETTON ● CHRIST ●
SPORT SCHECK ●
MONKI ●
WEEKDAY ●
ARA ●
TCHIBO ●
M DO
GR OS SE REI
BER MÖNCKE
MÖNC
RZ
Karstadt Sports
ST
Europa Passage
E SS
KU
Peek & Cloppenburg
G-STAR RAW ● HAGEL THE HAIR COMPANY ●
Non-Global Blue Retailer
VE
NF
LE
ET
Shopping Centre
DER
MP
NST
R.
B U R CH A R D S
EN
A SSE WIL L Y- B R A N DT- S T R
Department Store
TR
.
S H O P | 75
DESIGNER OUTLET NEUMÜNSTER HOW TO GET THERE By car From Hamburg: head north on the A7. Take exit 15 for Neumünster Süd and continue on the B205, following the signs for Designer Outlet. From Neumünster: follow Altonaer Strasse (K16), turn left on to Oderstrasse and follow the signs directing you to the front entrance. By bus From Neumünster: take the 7 or 77, which leave from in front of the railway station. By train From Hamburg: take the RE21020 to Neumünster. From Kiel: take the RE21023 to Neumünster. By taxi The journey takes approximately 40 minutes from Hamburg, Lübeck and Kiel.
globalblue.com
Designer Outlet Neumünster, Oderstrasse 10, 24539 Neumünster, +49 (0)4321 558 6880, mcarthurglen.com
PERFECT DAY
6pm 7 For All Mankind’s range of premium denim provides the perfect ft, and there’s a complementary selection of footwear, bags and casualwear.
Opening times Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sunday and public holidays: closed
10am Start the day at Gant Footwear where American sportswear heritage and European style combine to create a casual lifestyle collection.
12pm Take time out with a cup of Schärf cofee and a snack at Tackmann’s Cofee House.
4pm Find the perfect fnishing touches at Falke’s outlet store, which ofers everything from men’s socks to women’s hosiery.
2pm Adventurous types will love the collection of mountain-ready outfts on ofer at sportswear boutique Napapijri.
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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
1. Shop
Refund Ofce details: Munich Airport: Terminal 1, Departures, Level 4 Terminal 2, Departures, Level 4 Terminal 2, Transit, Level 5
Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
2. Claim
When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.
Downtown Munich: Karstadt, Bahnhofplatz 7 Oberpollinger, Neuhauser Strasse 44 Galeria Kaufof, Kaufngerstrasse 1-5 Hamburg Airport Global Blue Terminal 1, afer security control, at the pier between gates A18 and A20. Go to check-in frst, ask for your labelled luggage and take it with you to customs. Customs stamps for luggage only at Terminal 1. Customs stamps for hand luggage behind security control at the pier between gates A18 and A20. Berlin Tegel Airport Terminal A, Service Centre, go to customs before check-in. Customs is situated beside the Global Blue Ofce Berlin Schönefeld Airport Terminal A, Departures, landside, second foor to the right of the café bar. Go to customs before check-in. Downtown Berlin KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin Galeria Kaufof, Alexanderplatz 9 (Customer Service Centre, 5th foor), 10178 Berlin Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111
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TRANSLATIONS
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 44: Hamburg’s Hot Spot
Модный Лабиринт Торговая улица Neuer Wall в Гамбурге, изобилующая дизайнерскими бутиками и ювелирными салонами, – самое популярное место для роскошного шоппинга, – рассказывает Бет Дрюс Когда речь заходит о самых лучших в Европе направлениях для эксклюзивного шоппинга, то Гамбург не самый первый город, который приходит на ум. Однако побывав в районе Neustadt, вы сможете открыть для себя один из самых globalblue.com
престижных шоппинг-кварталов Германии – Neuer Wall. Расположенный рядом с озером Бинненальстер между станциями метро Jungfernstieg и Stadthausbrücke, квартал буквально забит бутиками и с легкостью может конкурировать с самыми роскошными торговыми районами мира. «Элитный торговый район вокруг Neuer Wall с его уютными улочками вдоль каналов и ажурными мостиками, один из самых элегантных в стране», – считает Ник Фостер из газеты «Financial Times». В 2006 году район, раскинувшийся на целый километр в длину, прошел реставрацию и за последующие 9 девять лет количество магазинов только выросло. Южная часть квартала вместила бутики наиболее
79
известных дизайнерских марок одежды, а также салоны интерьеров и мебели, кафе и рестораны. Если вас интересуют кожаные сумки с принтом в пастельных оттенках, которые Миучча Прада презентовала во время шоупоказа коллекций осень-весна 2015/16, то Neuer Wall будет идеальным местом, чтобы изучить их в деталях. А огромный спектр представленных здесь международных брендов, включая Michael Kors, Mulberry и Longchamp, будет очень кстати всем, кто ищет роскошный аксессуар. Украшенные мехом и леопардовым принтом сумки Louis Vuitton непременно очаруют людей тонкого и смелого вкуса. Эта часть Гамбурга также известна своими ювелирными салонами, включая такие ведущие бренды, как Cartier, Bulgari и Tifany & Co, а также роскошные часовые марки Omega и Montblanc. Уделите достаточно времени, чтобы познакомиться со всеми спрятанными здесь сокровищами, после чего можете отдохнуть в кафе и насладится своей покупкой. Café Engelchen – это элегантный кофе-хаус, расположенный на втором этаже; большие живописные окна позволят вам полюбоваться прекрасным видом на Neuer Wall. В районе Neuer Wall можно найти немало старинных магазинов, один из них – Brahmfeld & Gutruf. Этот ювелирный салон хранит впечатляющую коллекцию красочных драгоценностей, украшенных ценными камнями и узорами с природными мотивами. Бутик можно посетить лишь для того, чтобы полюбоваться его внутренним убранством; в 2014 году он получил немецкую премию в области осветительного дизайна «Deutsche Lichtdesign Preis» за инновационную конструкцию из 48 тысяч светодиодов, создающих иллюзию разноцветного гамбургского неба. Хотя такие районы, как Neuer Wall принято ассоциировать исключительно с роскошным рынком и брендами класса «премиум», за последние несколько лет ситуация начала заметно меняться, и здесь стало появляться все больше магазинов доступных брендов средней ценовой
категории. Среди недавно открытых – Cos и & Other Stories. В первом представлен большой ассортимент современных коллекций в сдержанных тонах, в то время как в & Other Stories вы найдете более веселую гамму красок и богатый выбор одежды, украшений, косметики и забавных аксессуаров, которые непременно подарят вам хорошее настроение. От всех остальных торговых районов Neuer Wall отличает обилие мебельных салонов, расположенных напротив станции метро Stadthausbrücke. В их число входит голландский бренд Rivièra Maison, в салоне которого представлены предметы интерьера и коллекции мягкой мебели, вдохновленные самыми стильными городами Европы. Neuer Wall также приютил основанный более века назад магазин товаров для дома, где можно найти самые изысканные коллекции фарфора в Гамбурге. Поклонники моды, следящие за актуальными тенденциями, обнаружат немало интересного в бутике Jil Sander. Эта марка была основана Сандер в Гамбурге в 1968 году, однако известность получила лишь в 1980-х. Оригинальный и часто копируемый стиль Сандер положил начало для движения минимализма 90-х годов и остается фаворитом среди поклонников èффектной, но сдержанной одежды. Концепция престижных шоппинг районов мира может вызвать у некоторых образ огромного безличного пространства, но с Neuer Wall все обстоит по-другому – сочетание старинной европейской èлегантности и современной роскоши от Chanel, Prada и Bottega Veneta создает потрясающий èффект. Решающую роль здесь играет непередаваемая атмосфера, привлекающая туристов со всех уголков планеты. «éзящные улочки зигзагом протянулись на юг и на запад, отмеряя взглядом, роскошные магазины Neuer Wall и не менее роскошных прохожих», – замечает Франк Бруни из «Te New York Times». Нет сомнения, что Neuer Wall èто идеальное место, чтоб на других посмотреть и себя показать. neuerwall-hamburg.de
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50: To The Max
На максимуме
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
Крупные ювелирные украшения появились во многих коллекциях сезона осень/зима. Доминик Фенн выясняет, почему теперь больше значит лучше
Есть что-то завораживающее в звоне браслетов на запястье, в мелодичных звуках столкновения серебра и золота. А что может ярче показать вашу страсть к путешествиям, чем экзотические драгоценности и выразительные украшения, которые не останутся не замеченными и всегда будут поводом для globalblue.com
разговоров? Похоже, что время немецкого минималистского нормкора постепенно проходит. И активное присутствие броских украшений и аксессуаров ручной работы на показах сезона осень/зима 2015/16 только подтверждает это. Эстетика нормкора характеризуется крайней сдержанностью, лаконизмом и анти-стилем. В последнее время получил полное признание тренд на унисекс с его упрощенным, «нормальным» вкусом и умеренным использованием отделки. Все это помогает успешно смешаться с толпой, а не выделяться из нее. Многие влиятельные дизайнеры отошли от простых оттенков черного, серого и синего в этом сезоне. Столь разительная перемена знаменует обращение к более выразительной манере. Например, одно из платьев Proenza Schouler покрывали 300000 блесток. Однако наиболее заметные перемены проявились в деталях. Если ювелирные коллекции создаются на века и призваны поведать удивительные истории, то сказка для сезона осень/зима 2015/16 будет яркой и необычной. Если говорить об изменчивых трендах, то дух весны/лета 2015 проявлялся в цветочных, изящных, женственных тканях. Поэтому летние коллекции Valentino, Marni и Alexander McQueen отличались удивительной нежностью. Вполне естественно, что уравновесить и сбалансировать это призваны массивные вещи из плотных тканей. Миучча Прада, со свойственной ей выдающейся проницательностью, обратилась сразу к нескольким модным десятилетиям — от 1960-х до 90-х. Однако наиболее явно в новой коллекции обращает на себя внимание блеск и роскошь 1980-х. Уши моделей украшали серьги – гигантские ромашки с яркими лепестками желтого, белого, красного и розового оттенков. На каждой второй паре с цветков спускались капельки с инкрустированным камнем. Яркие ожерелья органично дополняли каждый цветочный комплект. Женщина в стиле Marni всегда готова к приключениям, и в этом сезоне серьги
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PHOTO: MATTHIAS HOFFMANN
с несколькими камнями и скульптурные браслеты естественных оттенков рассказывают о дальних странствиях. Givenchy представляет многочисленные кольца с перегородкой и псевдопирсинг: набор для каждой модели индивидуально разрабатывал визажист Пат МакГрат. Несмотря на нежность жемчужных аксессуаров, шоу провозглашало торжество женской силы. Это настроение удалось передать через выразительные узоры на лицах, сделав общий образ драматичным и даже агрессивным. Бунтарский дух оказался присущ новой коллекции Balenciaga: дизайнер Александр Ванг соединил традиционные для бренда элементы со своими самыми
фантастическими идеями. Жемчужины, усыпавшие уши моделей, перекликались с декоративными кристаллами на юбках и обуви, придавая завершенность общей атмосфере роскоши. Возрождение ювелирной сферы заметно не только на подиумах. Эксперты по трендам и инновациям из исследовательской
компании Stylus утверждают, что «интерактивные технологии внутри магазина и онлайн привносят в ювелирную розницу соблазнительные возможности персонализации и образования в общении с клиентами». Хай-тек и хай-тач, технологии и душевная связь с клиентом становятся все ближе друг к другу. И то, что посетитель получает в магазине, просто невозможно заменить онлайн. Немецкий бренд часов и аксессуаров Tomas Sabo декларирует, что жизнь слишком коротка, чтобы носить скучные ювелирные украшения. Если вы с ним согласны, то обязательно побывайте в его бутике. Бусы и шармы серии Karma можно коллекционировать, добавляя новые элементы каждый сезон и создавая бесконечное количество вариаций. К сезону осень/зима 2015/16 марка выпустила яркие браслеты с цветочными мотивами и крупные коктейльные кольца с камнями оттенка зимних ягод. Немецкий бренд Niessing предлагает собственное понимание укрупненных украшений. Его коллекция Phoenix напоминает архитектурный шедевр в миниатюрной форме. Ожерелье и браслет этой серии состоит из тонких овальных пластин из золота и платины, которые сцеплены между собой и символизируют бесконечную цикличность. Другое фирменное украшение, ожерелье Papyr, напоминает аккуратно сложенную цепочку из полоски золотой бумаги. Ювелирные тренды могут варьироваться от сезона к сезону: сначала ценятся минималистские и лаконичные украшения, потом — уже нарочито яркие. Бренды Германии и всего мира с готовностью предлагают свои интерпретации этих образов. В итоге, большую роль играет сочетание трендовых ювелирных произведений с конкретными комплектами одежды. Чтобы позволить этим максималистским украшениям раскрыться, стоит подумать о простых ансамблях. miumiu.com, marni.com, givenchy.com, balenciaga.com, thomassabo.com, niessing.com
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56: Branching Out
Новый виток
Александр Бреннинкмайер – из семьи основателей модного гиганта C&A. Джош Симс рассказывает о его собственном бренде – роскошном и вместе с тем доступном Александру Бреннинкмайеру, вероятно, было предначертано сделать себе имя в сфере моды. Но вряд ли его семья ожидала, что для собственного бренда Clemens en August он изберет именно минималистскую роскошную эстетику. Фамилия Бреннинкмайеров прославилась в связи с C&A – крупным немецким брендом одежды и текстиля: в 70-80-е годы эта компания была в числе пионеров быстрой моды по доступным ценам. На первый взгляд, собственный бренд Бреннинкмайера далек от массовой моды ровно настолько, чтобы привлечь внимание актера Джеймса Макэвоя, художницы и режиссера Сэм Тэйлор-Джонсон, модели Клаудии Шиффер, архитектора Рема Колхаса и других совсем не похожих друг на друга знаменитостей. В то же время, создатель марки глубоко убежден: дизайнерская одежда должна быть доступной по цене. «Интересная одежда обладает отменным спросом – ровно до тех пор, пока вы не просите слишком много денег за нее, – рассказывает Бреннинкмайер, который сейчас озабочен привлечением инвестиций для расширения своего дела. – Например, я могу иногда позволить себе купить что– нибудь дорогое. И бывает, что я встречаю красивую дизайнерскую вещь, но я не готов заплатить 2000 евро за нее. Я лучше рискну подождать распродажи и буду надеяться, что останется мой размер, как и поступают сейчас многие люди». Бреннинкмайер знает, о чем говорит. Поработав в C&A байером женских платьев и одежды для молодых мам, он выступил сооснователем влиятельной марки Kostas Murkudis. Руководствуясь собственным опытом, он может утверждать, что зачастую высокие цены – это результат стремительно растущих расходов на аренду и персонал. globalblue.com
Стильный, современный и в то же время классический мужской костюм Clemens en August, визитная карточка бренда, можно купить за 800 евро – примерно вдвое дешевле, чем обойдется аналогичный по качеству комплект другой марки. Чтобы удерживать цены на таком уровне, Бреннинкмайер ввел необычные способы продажи своих коллекций. Так, вы не найдете Clemens en August в магазинах. Бреннинкмайер целенаправленно избегает работы с байерами, поскольку они выбирают самые перспективные с точки зрения продаж вещи и, тем самым, ломают целостность и атмосферу коллекции. Нет у бренда и собственных магазинов: он просто не может себе позволить престижный флагманский бутик – по крайней мере, при таких ценах на одежду. Вместо всего этого создатель компании каждый сезон путешествует со своими коллекциями, устраивая на несколько дней магазины в галереях и
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театрах. В этом сезоне его можно встретить в Лондоне, Цюрихе, Вене, Гамбурге, Кельне и четырех других крупных городах Германии. Поклонникам стоит заранее отмечать нужные даты в своем календаре, чтобы успевать делать покупки на весь сезон. А еще лучше – стараться опережать других, поскольку каждая вещь выпускается ограниченным тиражом. «В этом много личного. Люди знакомятся друг с другом, и они чувствуют эту близость, которая делает их особенными. Именно так общаются между собой участники частного клуба», – утверждает Бреннинкмайер. Такой несколько усложненный доступ к коллекциям марки стал ее фирменным знаком, и разумеется, это ни капли не вредит Clemens en August. «Мы уделяем очень много внимания нашему продукту и во многом функционируем автономно», – размышляет руководитель. По его словам, это создает вовлеченность: «В моде мы часто хотим
именно то, что не можем получить, и именно поэтому наш подход эффективен. Конечно, существуют и более дешевые бренды, но у них нет такого кроя, таких тканей и такой атмосферы. Мы же всему этому можем уделять намного больше внимания, поскольку у нас нет всех этих традиционных для брендов расходов. Когда мы только начинали, мы хотели открыть всего один, но по-настоящему впечатляющий магазин. А потом посчитали, что это будет стоить нам около 10 миллионов евро. В итоге мы просто пригласили своих друзей, а они позвали своих, чтобы посмотреть, чем мы занимается. И в тот же вечер мы все продали». Бренд Clemens en August намного ближе к общему делу большой семьи Бреннинкмайеров, чем может показаться. Если обратиться к истокам названия компании C&A, откроется, что ее основали Клеменс и Август. И что именно в честь них Бреннинкмайер назвал свою марку. Именно
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эти братья первыми стали продавать сшитую ими одежду необычным способом, который к 1841 году захватил Европу: безо всякого магазина, они путешествовали по городам и весям, и продавали высококачественные ткани напрямую простым крестьянам. Бренд Clemens en August делает примерно то же самое в наши дни. Только его покупатели, кажется, одеваются несколько лучше. clemensenaugust.com 76: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. globalblue.com
美文翻译
44: Hamburg’s Hot Spot 汉堡的热门景点 诺伊瓦尔街上设计师时装和高端珠宝精品店云集， 是不可错过的奢侈购物圣地。Beth Druce为您讲述 说起欧洲的奢华购物目的地，首先映入人们脑海的 可能并不是汉堡。但是在Neustadt区，您会发现诺 伊瓦尔街（Neuer Wall）已悄然成为一处高档购物 街区。诺伊瓦尔街从内阿尔斯特湖畔（Inner Alster lake/Binnenalster）的少女堤（Jungfernstieg）一 直延伸到Stadthausbrücke，街上时尚大牌云集，完 全可以和世界上任何奢侈购物中心相媲美。 Nick Foster曾在《金融时报》上称赞道： “诺 伊瓦尔街周边的高端购物街区覆盖纵横交错的运河 和小桥，堪称全德国最优雅时尚的购物区之一。” 2006年，长达一千多米的诺伊瓦尔街翻新重建，在 过去的九年中，商店数量逐渐增加；尤其在诺伊瓦尔 街的南侧，汇集了诸多高档设计师品牌，亦有许多装 饰和家居商店、咖啡店和餐厅。 如果您被缪西娅·普拉达（Miuccia Prada）2015/16秋冬时装秀推出的印花淡彩双拉链 手袋所吸引，那么您可以在诺伊瓦尔街上近距离大 饱眼福。这里荟萃了诸如Michael Kors、Mulberry 和Longchamp等国际知名品牌，是物色奢侈配饰 的理想去处。对于更加前卫大胆的消费者而言，细 腻柔软的路易威登（Louis Vuitton）豹纹手提包不 啻为完美的选择。 汉堡的诺伊瓦尔街还坐拥大量珠宝精品店，其 中不乏卡地亚（Cartier）、宝格丽（Bulgari）和蒂芙 尼（Tifany & Co）等享誉全球的名牌，奢侈钟表制 造商欧米茄（Omega）和万宝龙（Montblanc）也赫 然在列。您可以尽情挑选众多做工精致的名品，然后 再找一家咖啡馆小餐一顿或小酌一杯，想想是不是 也来做一笔这样的投资。Café Engelchen是一家高 档优雅的二楼咖啡屋，透过咖啡屋的大玻璃，您可 以观察街上络绎不绝的行人和他们的考究衣着。 在诺伊瓦尔街，您还可以看到一些汉堡最古 老的零售商，其中就包括珠宝商Brahmfeld & Gutruf。色彩斑斓的珠宝珍品上满是光怪陆离的 自然图案，一枚枚稀世宝石点缀其间。光是店铺别 具一格的内部装潢就值得一看：小店别出心裁地使 用了四万八千支LED灯，创造出流光溢彩的汉堡 天空，这一设计也于2014年荣获德国照明设计奖 （Deutsche Lichtdesign Preis）。 虽然诺伊瓦尔街几乎是高档奢侈时尚品牌的代 名词，但近年来，一些融合前沿潮流、亲民价格和精 品店购物体验的新生代高街品牌横空出世。新近在
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诺伊瓦尔街开张的Cos和& Other Stories就是其 中两个例子。Cos主营时尚简约且配色考究的服饰， 而& Other Stories则是一家趣味横生的时尚生活 馆。店内的服装、珠宝、化妆品和新奇饰品定会让您 饶有兴致，流连忘返。 然而，让诺伊瓦尔街从其他设计师时尚街区中 脱颖而出的，还是Stadthausbrücke附近大量的家 居店。这其中就有荷兰品牌Rivièra Maison，该店 陈列着一系列室内装潢和装饰品，这些作品的设计 灵感均取自于欧洲各大时尚之都。诺伊瓦尔街上还 有百年家居零售品牌Weitz，其店内出售全汉堡最上 乘的精品瓷器。 说起高端国际购物中心，人们脑中往往浮现出 遥不可及、高高在上的奢华空间，但是诺伊瓦尔街 的Chanel、Prada和Bottega Veneta们完美融合了 传统的欧洲风韵和现代奢华，展示出非凡的吸引力。 诺伊瓦尔街的迷人魅力越来越受到海内外游客的青 睐。Frank Bruni曾在《纽约时报》中建议道： “穿 梭在通向南面和西面的蜿蜒窄巷中，您可以尽情探 访诺伊瓦尔街区的奢侈品商店，打量穿着考究的往 来顾客。”身处诺伊瓦尔街，你既能看风景，亦成为 风景中的一部分。 neuerwall-hamburg.de
50: To The Max 大即是美 夸张尺寸的珠宝首饰成为今年秋冬季多个品牌的设 计风格。Dominique Fenn为您揭秘大尺寸突然走 红的原因 手镯在手腕上互相敲击的声音让人愉悦，宛若闪耀 的金与银演奏的美妙旋律。然而还有什么比充满异 国风情的宝石，或是特立独行的气场珠宝，更能体现 一个人游历广泛，并且能轻松打开话题的呢？种种现
象表明，德国式的极简风normcore运动正式告一段 落，设计大胆的珠宝与手工配饰在2015/16年秋冬秀 场上大行其道。 所谓的normcore美学是一种极度低调、简化一 切和反时尚的风格。近年来其被认为是中性化趋势 的一种，并以简化、 “普通”的风格呈现，主要特征 是缺乏细节，让穿戴者隐入人群而非脱颖而出。本 季，大批具有国际影响力的设计师们，纷纷展现出 显著的方向性转变，从大量的简单色调如黑色、灰色 和海军蓝色，转变为更为华丽的风格——Proenza Schouler的某条连衣裙上装饰着30万枚亮片。真正 的变化体现在更为精致的细节上。长久以来，珠宝都 诉说着美妙且独特的故事，而2015/16年秋冬的故事 则是响亮且充满自豪的。 当谈到本季的整体趋势， 2015年春夏的神髓是 缀满花朵与细腻、女性化的面料，Valentino、Marni 和Alexander McQueen等品牌纷纷带来不食人间 烟火的空灵设计。所以理所应当由厚重与夸张尺寸风 格来加以平衡。杰出的趋势预测家Miuccia Prada在 最新的Miu Miu系列中，向之前几十年的不同风格 寻求灵感，从1960年代直到1990年代，当然1980年 代的闪光华丽风格最为抢眼。超大的耳环看起来像 是巨大的雏菊，装饰着明亮的黄色、白色、红色与粉 色花瓣。每相隔一片花瓣都带有垂坠设计，即在花瓣 上镶嵌着垂下的水晶。与之配套的项链完整打造出 繁花锦簇的造型。 穿Marni的女人总是散发着冒险气质，本季的多 宝石耳环与自然色雕塑感手镯，诉说着长途旅行中 的轶事。在Givenchy，多重鼻环与珠宝打造出的穿 孔效果，被造型师Pat McGrath运用在每名模特身 上。即便装饰她们脸庞的是细腻的珍珠，这仍是通过 面部装饰来强调女性力量的声明，整体造型充满戏 剧性与攻击性。Balenciaga同样散发着叛逆气息，设 计师Alexander Wang以迄今为止最戏剧化的手法 演绎品牌的传统风格。模特的耳朵上覆盖着多层珍 珠耳环，镶嵌于裙装与鞋履之上的装饰性水晶，更为 其平添几分奢华。 在秀场以外，珠宝零售业也重新焕发活力。根 据潮流与创新研究专业机构Stylus所指出， “互动技 术，无论在商店内或网络上，都为珠宝零售增添个性 化定制与市场教育的诱人新层次”。高科技和高触 感的世界正在发生碰撞，店内体验与线上体验无法 互相替代。 德国腕表与珠宝制造商Thomas Sabo曾表示， 人生苦短不可接受无聊的珠宝。造访该品牌店铺是 所有珠宝爱好者的例行公事，他们同样将此口头禅 视为金科玉律。品牌的Karma系列串珠与吊坠可被 单独收集，然后组合起来，每一季品牌都会推出新 的吊坠，从而衍生出无穷无尽的变化。在2015/16年 秋冬该品牌还推出了装饰有花朵中心图案的气场手
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镯，以及装点着冬季浆果色调宝石的超大尺寸鸡尾 酒戒指。 另一个推出夸张尺寸珠宝的德国品牌则是 Niessing。品牌的Phoenix系列是建筑美学的微小 缩影。象征永恒重复周期的薄薄圆片，被大量衔接打 造出项链与手链，并有黄金与铂金款可选。Papyr项 链则是另一款雕塑般的珠宝，看上去就像是一串精 心折叠的黄金纸环。 珠宝界的趋势可以从这一季的极简柔和，摇身 一变为下一季的奔放奢华，国际设计师品牌与德国 本土品牌们纷纷推出自己的演绎版本。作为服饰的 点睛之笔，最重要的还是将这些潮流珠宝单品与服 饰互相搭配。为凸显这些气场十足的耀眼珠宝，在 服饰搭配上请务必以简单为标准。 miumiu.com, marni.com, givenchy.com, balenciaga.com, thomassabo.com, niessing.com
56: Branching Out 开枝散叶
Alexander Brenninkmeijer的家族创立了零售巨头 C＆A，如今他经营着自己的时尚品牌。他的品牌时 髦又价格亲民，Josh Sims带你一起逛逛 或许Alexander Brenninkmeijer不可避免地会在时 尚史册上留下自己的名字。但是他的品牌Clemens en August的男装与女装系列所表达出的极简 主义美学，或许是他的亲属们从未曾料的发展方 向。Brenninkmeijer的家族掌控着德国纺织和时装 零售巨头C&A，品牌在70与80年代开创了一种以平 民价格贩售愉悦快时尚的商业模式。 Brenninkmeijer的品牌乍一看与高街时尚毫无 关联，其拥趸包括演员 James McAvoy、 艺术家兼 导演 Sam Taylor-Johnson、模特 Claudia Schifer 与建筑师Rem Koolhaas。然而，品牌同时秉承着 Brenninkmeijer的理念：设计师品牌并不一定要惊 人昂贵。 “对于有趣的服饰而言市场非常广阔，只要你 别要价过高， ”这位正在为大举扩张融资的创业家 指出。 “从我个人而言，有时我的确买得起更贵的东 西。我可能会看上一件不错的设计单品，但绝不会出 2000欧元去购买。我宁愿冒风险等打折季，看到时 有没有自己的尺码，这也是许多人的策略。” Brenninkmeijer应该深谙此道。在为C&A担 任女装连衣裙与孕妇装买手后，他还曾共同创立了 颇具影响力的Kostas Murkudis品牌。他表示， 价 格压力往往来自于物业租金和人力成本的快速上 涨。 在Clemens en August，摩登经典男士西服只 卖800欧元一套，几乎是其他品牌同样品质商品的 globalblue.com
一半。为了保持低价，Brenninkmeijer采用激进的 销售技巧。 你在任何商店中都找不到Clemens en August。Brenninkmeijer想要避免买手们只挑 选最具商业价值的单品，而破坏了整个系列的感 觉。Clemens en August也没有任何自己的门店。 品牌无法负担一间旗舰店——至少在其价格没有上 涨之前。与之相反的，Brenninkmeijer带着每季产 品到处巡回，在不同的艺术画廊或剧场开设几天临 时店铺。目前，他正在访问伦敦、苏黎世、维也纳、汉 堡、科隆和其他四座德国主要城市。 粉丝们会事先把品牌巡展日期记在日程本上， 前往——或冲进店铺，因为每件单品都限量贩 售——购买当季产品。 “这是非常私人化的体验，人 们彼此可以互相了解，他们还可以近距离观察面料， 这是让人们觉得与众不同的原因。大家会有一种私 人俱乐部的感觉， ”他表示。自然，这不会对Clemens en August品牌构成任何伤害，这种限制购买的手 法反而赋予其魅力。 “我们非常注重产品，并以不同寻常的模式运 营， ”他解释道。他表示，这种做法创造出一种局内 人的优势且收效极佳， “因为对时尚产品我们往往追 逐自己得不到的。自然，还有许多品牌比我们便宜很
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كم لو أ ّن لديهم بطاقة عضويّة لنادي خاص ”.وبالطبع ينح هذا النفاذ شبه الحدود علمة فارقة لـ .Clemens en August ي”ح Brenninkmeijerقائلً“ :نركّز عل النتج ونعمل “ياً ويناسبنا “إذ تقريباً بعيدا ً عن النظار ”.المر الذي يعطي عملنا طابعاً ّ غالباً ما نتوق ف الزياء إل ما ل يكننا تحقيقه .بالطبع ث ّة علمات تجاريّة أخرى أرخص م ّنا بكثي ،لك ّنها ل تبع عل مستوى التصميم أو القمشة أو الذوق .يكننا التنبّه إل كل ذلك لنّنا ل نحمل عبء النفقات العتياديّة التي تتكبّدها العلمات الخرى ف مجال الزياء .ف البداية ،فكّرنا بافتتاح متجر مذهل واحد ل غي ،لك ّننا أدركنا أنّه سيكلّفنا حوال ع”ة مليي يورو. فاكتفينا بدعوة بعض الصدقاء وأصدقائهم للمجيء لنى إن سيحبّون ما كل شء ف ليل ٍة واحدة”. نص ّمم .ل يكن للعلمة إسم بعد آنذاك ،لكن ّنا بعنا ّ تبقى علمة Clemens en Augustأقرب إل قيم مم يبدو .بالعودة إل أصل إسم ،C&Aتجد الخوين الؤسسة العائليّة ّ ّ مؤسس ال”كة التي استوحى منها Clemensو،August ّ Brenninkmeijerإسم علمته .أنشأ الخوان ما بات سنة 1841 العملق الوروب ف صناعة اللبس وبيعها بطرق مبتكرة :ل يكن للخوين محل ،بل كانوا ينتقلون من منطقة إل أخرى يبيعون أقمشة عالية الجودة ّ ميسين .تقوم Clemens en Augustاليوم بالشء لزارعي غي ّ نفسه تقريباً ،لكن يرتدي زبائنها ملبس أفضل. clemensenaugust.com When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free: 76
عندما تتس ّوق حول العال ،تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من 270,000
متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال. فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دفع كل سنة؟ ما عليك إل الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blue وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة.
.1تس ّوق الخاص بغلوبل أينم تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة ّ بلو Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت. .2أطلب ف طريق العودة إل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب الستداد الخاصة بنا. ّ للت ّصال:
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره €25وادّخر حتّى 14.5%من ثن مشتياتك.
يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري .ف بعض الطارات ،يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي.
多， ”他补充， 。“但他们没有我们的剪裁、面料或触感 并且我们可以专注于此，因为没有普通时尚品牌的日 常开销。当我们刚开始运作时，曾试图开设一间宏伟 的店铺，却发现会耗费一千万欧元。最终我们邀请 朋友与他们的朋友一起前来，看看他们会不会喜欢 我们设计的产品。当时我们的品牌甚至没有名字。但 ”。在一个晚上所有的产品都销售一空 虽说并不显而易见，但Clemens en August的 品牌精神更接近于其家族品牌。追溯C&A品牌的根 源，即品牌创始兄弟Messrs Clemens与 August， 而Brenninkmeijer正是以他们的名字为自己的品 牌命名。两兄弟在1841年创立的公司，同样通过以 与众不同的方式制造并销售服饰，而成为泛欧洲时 尚业巨擎：同样没有门店，他们在不同区域之间巡 回，向囊中羞涩的农民们直接出售高品质面料。今日 Clemens en August品牌所做的并无二致，区别仅 。仅是顾客们更喜欢打扮了 clemensenaugust.com
76: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free 。Shopping）为您节约购物开销 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税 过程：
1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 （Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小 。票 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 。的退税点领取您的退税款 联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€25即可节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请 注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管 理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取 。现金退税手续费
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ومناهضة الرائج .وقد بات مؤ ّخرا ً موضة للرجال والنساء؛ يتمتّع بأسلوب بسيط و”عادي” مع غياب واضح للتفاصيل ،ما يتيح للشخص الندماج مع مجموعة معيّنة بدلً من التميّز عنها .يشي التح ّول الستعراض الذي قام العاليي الرموقي هذا الوسم عن به عدد ل يستهان به من الص ّممي ّ ألوان السود والرمادي والكحل البسيطة ،إل عودة مر ّحب بها إل السلوب البهرج – فقد ُزيّن ثوب لد” Proenza Schoulerبثلثة آلف قطعة ترتر .وظهر الت–يي الحقيقي ف التفاصيل الكث دقّة .مع مرور الزمن، تروي مجموعات الجوهرات قصصاً جميلة ل مثيل لها ،وقّصة خريف/شتاء 2015/16مد ّوية ومعت ّزة. ف ما يتعلّق بوضة هذا الوسم الشاملة ،نلحظ استمراريّة روح وبخاصة ف ربيع/صيف 2015ف أقمشة أنثويّة ناعمة مزخرفة بالزهار ّ مجموعات Valentinoو MarniوAlexander McQueen الثييّة الرائعة .لذا من الطبيعي أن توازي القطع الكبية الضخمة ذلك. استوحت متقّبة الوضة البارعة Miuccia Pradaمجموعة Miu Miuالخية من عقو ٍد ماضية ،بالتحديد من الستّينات حتّى التسعينات، بالرغم من تركّز النظار عل سحر وبريق الثمنينات .بدت القراط الكبية كأقحوانات ضخمة ذات بتلت صفراء وبيضاء وحمراء وزهريّة .وتثّلت التصاميم الخر” بحجرة مط ّعمة بالكريستال متدلّية من الزهرة .واكتملت الطللة التمحورة حول الزهار بقلدات مناسبة. تعب تصاميم Marniدوماً عن روح ال–امرة وتتحدّث القراط الكثية ّ الحجار والساور الصقولة ذات اللوان الطبيعيّة هذا الوسم عن أسفار لكل عارضة أزياء قصيّة .ابتكرت أخصائيّة التجميل ّ Pat McGrath لد” Givenchyحلقات متعدّدة للحاجز النفي وثقوباً مزيّفة محش ّوة بالجواهر .بالرغم من تزيي وجوه العارضات بالللئ الناعمة ،سلّط ذلك الضوء عل ق ّوة الرأة من خلل زخرفة الوجه وتيّزت الطللة الشاملة بالدراماتيكيّة والعنف .كم ظهرت روح التم ّرد لد” Balenciagaحيث دمج الص ّمم Alexander Wangرموز الدار التقليديّة مع رؤيته التي قد تكون الكث دراماتيكيّة للعلمة حتّى الن .انحجبت الذان بطبقات متعدّدة من مرصعة بالكريستال زيّنت التناني أقراط اللّؤلؤ وزادت الطللة فخام ًة بقطع ّ والحذية. منصات عرض الزياء ،جر” أيضاً تحديث قطاع الجوهرات. بعيدا ً عن ّ بحسب خباء الوضة والبتكار ف مركز البحث “ ،Stylusتساهم التكنولوجيا التفاعليّة ف التاجر وعب النتنت ف إضافة طبقات م–رية جديدة من التخصيص والثقافة إل قطاع الجوهرات ”.يجري التصادم بي عالي التقنيّة العالية والعلقة البا“ة بي التاجر والزبون ،والحقيقة أنّه ل يكن عب النتنت تقديم التجربة نفسها كتلك داخل التجر. يقول صانع الساعات وصائغ الجوهرات اللان ،Thomas Sabo الحياة قصية ج ّدا ً للتزيّن بجوهرات مملّة .ل ب ّد لي شخص يهو” الجوهرات ويؤمن بهذه القولة أن يزور أحد متاجره .يكن جمع خرزات الـ Karma والحل التي يبتكرها وتركيب القطع مع بعضها البعض ،كم يكن إضافة كل موسم وخلق تصاميم ل تحص .لخريف/شتاء ،2015/16 حل جديدة ّ مرصعة بالحجار تتوسطها الزهار وخواتم ضخمة ّ تقدّم العلمة أيضاً أساور ّ والجواهر بألوان العلّيق الشتوي. من العلمات التجاريّة اللانيّة الخر” التي تصنع مجوهرات مبال–اً فيها ،علمة .Niessingتشكّل مجموعة Phoenixروع ًة هندسيّة بحجمٍ ص–ي .تتّصل ببعضها البعض أقراص بيضاويّة رقيقة تشي إل دورات تتك ّرر إل البد لتولّد قلد ًة وسوارا ً باللّون الذهبي أو البلتيني .وتشكّل قلدة Papyrقطعة متكلّفة أخر” ،توحي أنّها سلسلة أوراق ذهبيّة مثنيّة بإتقان. تت–ي الوضة ف الجوهرات من البسيطة والتحفّظة ف موسم ،إل الجريئة قد ّ والصارخة ف الوسم التال ،ويقدّم الص ّممون العاليّون والعلمات اللانيّة
عل ح ّد سواء ،تفسيهم الخاص لهذه الساليب .وتتمثّل اللّمسات الخية ف طريقة التنسيق بي قطع الجوهرات هذه الجارية للموضة وبي اللبس .لذا إفساحاً بالجال أمام لعان هذه القطع التكلّفة ،اختاري ملبس بسيطة.
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م ّد البساط
ّأسست عائلة Alexander Brenninkmeijerالشكة العملقة خاصة به ف مجال الزياء ،تقرير C&Aوهو يدير حاليّاً علمة تجاريّة ّ
Josh Sims
ربا كان من الحتّم أن يبز إسم Alexander Brenninkmeijer ّ
عل ساحة الزياء ،لكن من الر ّجح أل يكون معظم أقاربه قد توقّعوا منه ُبسط النيق ف اللبس الرجاليّة والنسائيّة من علمته اعتمد السلوب ال ّ أسست عائلة Brenninkmeijer ّ .Clemens en August الشكة اللانيّة العملقة ف مجال القمشة والزياء C&Aالتي قدّمت ف السبعينات والثمنينات أزيا ًء مرحة بأسعار معقولة. كل يبدو للوهلة الول أ ّن علمة Brenninkmeijerبعيدة ّ البعد عن الزياء الجاهزة ف السوق كم هو متوقّع من علمة يرتدي تصاميمها أشخاص متعدّدون كالمثّل James McAvoyوالخرجة Sam Taylor-Johnsonوعارضة الزياء Claudia Schiffer والهندس .Rem Koolhaasلكن يدرك Brenninkmeijerأنّه ليس من الضوري أن تكون ابتكارات الص ّمم باهظة الثمن. التوسع“ :يكن يقول رجل العمل الذي يشيّد حاليّاً مبنى بهدف ّ تسويق اللبس الميّزة بسهولة ما ل تطلب ثنها غالياً .ف بعض الحيان، يكنني شخصيّاً أن أشتي شيئاً باهظ الثمن .قد تعجبني قطعة تصميمٍ لك ّنني ل أدفع ثنها ألفي يورو .بل أفضّ ل أن أجازف وأنتظر فتة التنزيلت آملً أن تبقى القطعة عل قياس ،وهذا ما يفعله كثيون الن”. ل ب ّد أ ّن ُ Brenninkmeijerمدرك لذلك .بعد أن شغل منصب منسق ملبس نسائيّة ومسؤول عن “اء ملبس المومة لد” ،C&Aشارك ّ ف تأسيس علمة Kostas Murkudisالشهية .يشح أ ّن ارتفاع العمل. السعار ينجم عن زيادة سيعة ف بدلت اليجار وتكاليف ّ يكن “اء بدلة ر ّجاليّة كلسيكيّة عصيّة أنيقة من Clemens en Augustبا يقارب 800يورو ،أي نصف سعر الجودة نفسها ف مكان آخر .وللمحافظة عل السعار العقولة ،اعتمد Brenninkmeijer تقنيّة بيع مبتكرة. لن تجد علمة Clemens en Augustف الحلت .ل يشأ Brenninkmeijerأن يختار الشتون أكث القطع التجاريّة ويش ّوهون طابع مجموعة كاملة .كذلك ليس لـ Clemens en Augustأي محل أي مكان .ذلك ببساطة لنّها ل تتح ّمل تكاليف ّ متاجر ّ خاصة ف ّ رئيس راقٍ ،إل عل القل ،ف حال رفعت أسعار ملبسها .بل يجول كل موسم ويُنشئ محلً لبضعة أيّام ف Brenninkmeijerب جموعته ّ معرض ف ّني أو مسح .يقوم حاليّاً بجولة ف لندن وزيورخ وفيينا وهامبورغ وكولونيا وأربع مدن ألانيّة رئيسيّة أخر”. يتم إطلع محبّي العلمة عن التواريخ مسبقاً ليد ّونوها ويأتون بسعة، كل قطعة محدودة أو بالحر” بأسع ما يكن ،ليشتوا للموسم با أ ّن ّ الكميّة .يقول ف هذا الصدد“ :إنّه حدثٌ شخص بحيث يتع ّرف الناس عل صفون بعضهم البعض ويرون القمشة عن كثب ،ما يجعلهم مميّزين .يت ّ globalblue.com
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ترجمة باللغة العربيّة Hamburg’s Hot Spot: 44
مركز الفخامة ف هامبورغ
لوفرة محلت الزياء الراقية والجوهرات الرفيعة الستو” ف شارع Neuer ،Wallبات الكان الفضّ ل للتس ّوق الفاخر ،تقرير Beth Druce
لد” التفكي بأماكن التس ّوق الفاخرة ف أوروبا ،قد ل تكون هامبورغ
الدينة الول التي تطرأ عل البال .لك ّنك ستجد ف منطقة Neustadt تح ّول شارع Neuer Wallإل منطقة تس ّوق راقية .يت ّد من محطّة القطارات Jungfernstiegعل بحية Inner Alsterحتّى محطّة ،Stadthausbrückeيض ّم دور أزياء متعدّدة ويكنه منافسة أكث
مناطق التس ّوق تيّزا ً ف العال. “منطقة التس ّوق الفاخرة الحيطة بـ ،Neuer Wallبشوارعها الوزّعة فوق شبكة من القنوات والجسور ،هي الرقى ف البلد” عل ح ّد تعبي Nick Fosterف مجلّة .Financial Timesيت ّد هذا الشارع لكث من كيلومت وقد ُر ّمم سنة 2006وازداد عدد الحلت فيه تدريجيّاً ف السنوات التسع الاضية .يض ّم الجزء الجنوب منه بالتحديد، علمات تجاريّة راقية لص ّممي أزياء بالضافة إل محلت ديكور وأثاث ومقاهي ومطاعم. إن لفتت انتباهك حقائب اليد الجلديّة النقوشة الزدوجة الس ّحابات والناعمة اللوان التي ح ّملتها Miuccia Pradaلعارضات منصة العرض لخريف/شتاء ،2015/16فإ ّن الزياء ليتنّحن بها عل ّ Neuer Wallهو الكان الثال لرؤيتها عن كثب .الواقع أنّه بفضل العلمات التجاريّة العاليّة التي يض ّمها ،با فيها Michael Kors و Mulberryو ،Longchampيشكّل هذا الشارع الكان الثمل لشاء الكسسوارات .حقائب اليد الكثية الفراء بنقش الفهد من Louis Vuittonخيا ٌر ممتاز لذوي الذواق الجازفة. كم يض ّم هذا الجزء من هامبورغ عددا ً من دور الجوهرات با فيها أسمء رفيعة الستو” عل سبيل Cartierو Bulgariو& Tiffany خصص Coوصانعي ساعات فاخرة مثل Omegaوّ .Montblanc بعض الوقت للتم ّعن بتشكيلة من القطع الميّزة ،قبل أن تتو ّجه إل مقهى وتتلذّذ بطعام أو مشوب وتتأ ّمل هكذا استثمرCafé Engelchen . مقهى راقٍ ف الطابق الثان ،بفضل نوافذه الكبية ،يشكّل نقطة ممتازة لراقبة
زبائن Neuer Wallالتأنّقي. ويتواجد ف Neuer Wallبعض أقدم ت ّجار هامبورغ ومنهم صائغ الجوهرات Brahmfeld & Gutrufالذي يتميّز بقطعه الزخرفة الرصعة بالحجار الكرية والغنيّة بالتصاميم الغريبة الستوحاة من الل ّونة ّ الحل لديكوره الداخل الميّز؛ حاز سنة 2014 الطبيعة .تكفي زيارة ّ جائزة التصميم الضوئ اللانيّة Deutsche Lichtdesign Preis بتغي لون سمء هامبورغ. لستخدامه البتكر لـ 48ألف لبة LEDت ُوحي ّ بالرغم من ارتباط بعض الناطق عل سبيل Neuer Wallبدور أزياء راقية وفاخرة ،شهدت السنوات الخية بروز عدد من العلمات التجاريّة الختصة باللبس الجاهزة فصهرت تجربة التس ّوق الراقية بأساليب مبتكرة ّ رائجة وأسعار مقبولة .من السمء التي افتتحت مؤ ّخرا ً ف Neuer Wall، .يقدّم ال ّول مجموعات عصيّة بسيطة Cosو مساحة قائة عل ألوان مدروسة ،ف حي يشكّل أزياء وأسلوب حياة يحلو فيها التج ّول .يكنك أن تض ساعات تتفقّد تشكيلة اللبس والجوهرات ومستحضات التجميل والكسسوارات الخلقة التي يض ّمها. إل أ ّن ما ييّز Neuer Wallعن مناطق دور الزياء الراقية الخر”، هي مجموعة متاجر الثاث الواقعة لناحية .Stadthausbrückeومنها العلمة الهولنديّة Rivièra Maisonالتي تعرض أكسسوارات للمنازل ومجموعات أقمشة وبياضات مستوحاة من بعض الدن الوروبيّة الميّزة من الختصة بلوازم حيث السلوب .كم تض ّم Neuer Wallالعلمة العريقة ّ النزل ،Weitzالتي تشمل أفخر مجموعات الخزف ف هامبورغ. سيجد متتبّعو الوضة أمورا ً كثية يحبّونها ف متجر .Jil Sander ّأسس Sanderالعلمة ف هامبورغ سنة 1968لك ّنها ل تحقّق الشهرة إل ف الثمنينات .يتمتّع Sanderبأسلوب فريد من نوعه ،يُقلّد باستمرار من البسط ف التسعينات وما زال دون ّ تحسن ،وقد م ّهد الطريق للسلوب ّ أي ّ الفضّ ل لد” محبّي الزياء الذين ييلون إل التصاميم التقنة وغي التكلّفة. قد يوحي مبدأ منطقة تس ّوق عاليّة فاخرة بساحات ل ناس فيها ،لكن بفضل دمج Neuer Wallللناقة الوروبيّة القدية بالفخامة العصيّة من خلل Chanelو Pradaو ،Bottega Venetaكسبت تألّقاً حدب وصوب .قال Frank ملحوظاً .تزداد شهرتها كمكان مقصود من ّ كل ٍ Bruniف صحيفة “ :The New York Timesتج ّول ف الشوارع الضيّقة شملً وجنوباً و ِ احص الحلت الفاخرة والتس ّوقي الثرياء ف محيط ”.Neuer Wallيبدو أنّه من الجدير رؤية هذه النطقة والتواجد فيها. neuerwall-hamburg.de To The Max: 50
مغالة
سادت قطع الجوهرات الضخمة ف معظم الجموعات لهذا الخريف/الشتاء. لكل ما هو أكب س التح ّول الفاجئ ّ تستكشف ّ Dominique Fenn إل أفضل ث ّة ما يبعث الطمنينة ف رني الساور عل العصم ،إنّه لحن الفضّ ة اللمعة والنوتات الذهبيّة .وهل من شء ّ يدل عل كثة السفار أكث من الجواهر الغريبة والقطع الفريدة من نوعها التي تضمن بدء حديث مع الخرين؟ ف لربا كان إشارة إل نهاية حركة السلوب اللان العادي التواضع البسيط، ما ّ منصات عروض سادت الجوهرات الكبية والكسسوارات الشغولة يدويّاً عل ّ أزياء خريف/شتاء .2015/16 يتميّ ز السلوب العادي التواضع أي normcoreبالتحفّظ والتواضع
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SOUVENIR
MAKE A SPLASH This brown leather bag with white splatter efects is an eye-catching piece. It is part of the latest collection from Knights & Roses, a label named after the family crest of owner and designer Countess Katharina von Polier. With two collections a year since its founding in 2010, the accessories brand is making a name for itself with its modern take on traditional Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76
craftsmanship. The removable shoulder strap and roomy size make this bag a practical choice for both shopping and travelling. Named Ophelia after the famous Shakespearean character, the bag comes in a wide variety of colours including new splatter-efect models in grey and red as well as brown and white. th Knights & Roses Ophelia handbag, â‚Ź399, Birgit Grabbert, Hofweg 21, 22085 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 220 4073, knightsandroses.com
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