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For a glimpse of traditional Edo period life in rural Japan, take a day trip to Yanai, an hour and a half south of Hiroshima on the JR Sanyo Line. In Yanai, you’ll find a quaint and charming town with historic architecture, interesting museums, and lots of culture. Visit on August 13 to witness the annual Goldfish Lantern Festival.
YANAI NISHI GURA SHIRAKABE NO MACHINAMI
SAGAWA SHOYU
SHOKOAN TEMPLE
MUROYA NO SONO
Paper goldfish lanterns flutter in the wind throughout Yanai. YANAI STATION
Don’t miss the festival on August 13! Yanai’s famous Kanro shoyu To get to the historic heart of the city, Shirakabe No Machinami (literally the “white wall street”), follow the main road in front of the station straight down about a 500 meters. Turn left to take a step back in history - these lovely buildings represent traditional merchant class residences preserved from the Edo period (1603-1867). Take a few minutes to look in the House of the Kunimori Family Museum to see a variety of period artifacts. Head north up the side street to visit the Sagawa Shoyu Warehouse, where you can see how soy sauce was traditionally made. Yanai is known throughout Japan for this special type of soy sauce, called Kanro, prized for its sweet flavor. Head east back down the Shirakabe No Machinami towards the
Muroya No Sono, an Edo period residence comprised of several warehouses as well as the ancestral home which is chock full of antiques. If you speak some Japanese, the friendly museum-keeper, Youichi Morino, will gladly take you on a verbal tour through the history of this wealthy rapeseed oil estate. Take a break for lunch at Kuraya or Meiyoshi, two nearby restaurants specializing in washoku, traditional Japanese cuisine. You won’t be disappointed by the assortment of sushi, fish, pickled vegetables, miso soup, and rice. After lunch, head over to see Shokoan Temple, a picturesque Japanese temple. The willow tree and well in the garden are the namesake of Yanai;
Red & white goldfish lanterns line the buildings along Shirakabe no Machinami
yana means willow and i means well. If you have time, stop by the Yanai Nishi Gura, a workshop where you can make your own goldfish lantern or learn how to weave the traditional cotton textile from the area, known as Yanai Jima. On August 13, Yanai hosts the Goldfish Lantern Festival (Kingyo Chouchin Matsuri) and it is truly a sight to see. Over 2,000 red and white paper goldfish lanterns line the buildings and large versions of the lanterns are paraded through the streets as teams compete to spin them around. You’ll also see traditional dancers, a taiko drum performance, and Japan’s favorite summer pastime, a fireworks show.
Words/Illustrations by Naomi Leeman (naomileeman.com)
GetHiroshima / Summer 2014
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