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TOURIST TIPS • For a glimpse at a post-apocalyptic world, head to the La Isla de Cartuja area of Seville. Here, in 1992, the city threw the Seville World Expo, which attracted 100 nations showcasing their wares to the world. A great spectacle then; an eerie, empty corner of the city now, where weeds are reclaiming the streets as life goes on, everywhere, it seems, but here. • Pack sunscreen, hats and water when out and about in the summer months. It’s been said before but it bears repeating – you will have rarely experienced heat like the heat you feel in downtown Seville in July and August. • Either avoid April altogether or plan readily in advance. Seville’s Easter celebrations are legendary and wildly popular, meaning all hotel rooms are snapped up early, the streets are full to bursting and respite is impossible to come by. You have been warned.
Sleep Hotel Alfonso XIII For opulence, elegance and the most sophisticated night’s sleep you could ever wish for, there is no better hotel in Seville than the Hotel Alfonso XIII. Built in 1928 with the aim of becoming the most luxurious hotel in Europe, it is not far off – gorgeous period features combine sublimely with modern facilities and contemporary flourishes, delivering a superb combination of old world charm and service coupled with more mod-cons than you can shake an iPhone at. The Hotel Alfonso XIII is located a short distance from the Guadalquivir River in the centre of Seville, and so is within walking distance to all the main sights and attractions. Casa Imperial Housed in a former 16th century palace, you will feel as though you have stepped back in time as soon as you cross the threshold at the Casa Imperial, one of Seville’s handful of five-star hotels. The architecture is unmistakeably Andalusian, which lends the hotel a languid air of tranquillity in a manner that only continental Europe can muster – chic without even trying. With a lovely terrace bar overlooking the Cathedral, business can be conducted with the utmost efficiency, in the finest comfort, and with one of the most jaw-dropping backdrops setting the mood.
Eat 16th century Town Hall, the Mudejar-style Alcazar (which is right next to the Cathedral), the Museum of Fine Arts of Seville and the classical Bullring, which is one of the oldest bullfighting arenas in the world. All of these sights are within easy walking distance of one another.
Relax In the height of summer, welcome relief from the sun can be found in the fragrant Patio del Los Naranjos gardens where you can stroll along the shaded walkways protected by citrus trees and serenaded by the soothing gargling sounds of the many fountains that seemingly spring up all around you. Alternatively, the ancient winding streets of the Old Quarter are extremely narrow, built this way centuries ago as an effective means of sheltering from the sun, and a great spot to wander along in the heat of the afternoon. Of course, the sunshine might be one of the reasons behind your visit, so if you want to top up your tan you can head to the banks of the Guadalquivir River to sunbathe. Or you can befriend a local – most apartment blocks have rooftop pools that boast unbridled seclusion and uninterrupted tanning opportunity.
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Casa Cuesta Spain is ferociously protective of its cuisine, deigning to accommodate only a tiny smattering of foreign eateries in most of its larger cities, Seville included. But what Seville may lack in Indian or French restaurants it more than makes up for with its selection of traditional Andalusian restaurants, of which the Casa Cuesta in the Triana district is the pick of the bunch. Over 100 years old, this delightful diner has an informal bar area in the front and a much more formal restaurant at the back, where artistic décor, professional staff and well-dressed clientele are to be found, in addition to some of the finest Andalusian dishes around, especially the Casa’s signature Guisos – hearty stews that originated in the city and have weathered the haute cuisine revolution to become as popular as paella throughout Spain. La Flor de mi Vina Ever wandered into a bar in a foreign city and immediately noticed the lack of tourists as all eyes fall silently on you and your hopelessly out-of-place entourage? Well, the La Flor de mi Vina is like that, but in a good way. Tucked away in the old quarter of Seville, tourists rarely stumble upon it, but are in luck when they do, for this is how tapeando – going out for tapas – is done, Sevillian style. Orders are barked across the bar, the bartender writes your order down in chalk, on the bar, slides a plate of olives and a small beer your way, then carries on serving. Before you know it, your tiny plates of tapas have arrived, to be eaten stood wherever you can, with a fork and a napkin the only thing between you and the food. No airs, no graces, just excellent, traditional cuisine served quickly and cheaply. Try the meatballs in tomato sauce, the fried squid and the grilled chicken kebabs for a true Andalusian dining experience.
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