What’s happening in VANCOUVER ?
What’s happening in COMOX VALLEY ?
Chef Julio Gonzalez Perini has reinvented the raviolo at Lupo, (869 Hamilton Street, 604-569-2537 no website) the restaurant formerly known as Villa Del Lupo. And what a raviolo it is—spinach and ricotta stuffed, and how that perfectly poached golden yoked-free range egg gets tucked into that airy pasta packet? Answer. “Very carefully.� Hazelnut brown-butter sauce adds a final, and perfect, touch. Perini and sommelier Michael Mameli have revamped the space, modifying the “Villa’s� posh nosh for today’s palates and pocketbooks while keeping quality and quantity in tact. All Lupo antipastizi to share, clock in under $15. Primi are a generous small or large. Go for the small and split two or three dishes. (We love the braised pork cheeks with porcini “sugo�). Mains lean toward lamb shank ossobucco ($20) or Italian sausage with sauerkraut, and cannelini bean ragout ($19). Mameli’s well-priced taster/wine-by-glass selection allows you to pair the right wine with right dish. (The filling Ravioli and liberal sampler of Castello Banfi Gavi costs 16 bucks.) From my bay window seat looking into the cozy rooms, I could see that Lupo’s philosophy of “make good food�, treat people nice�, is working splendidly. Chef Jennifer Peters steps up to the plate as executive chef of Raincity Grill (www.raincitygrill.com). Can Peters continue to dish up the likes of a late-January media dinner? If so, the gal’s a keeper. Baynes Sound Scallop ceviche nearly dissolves on the tongue. Hazelnut-crusted salmon (from Bruce Swift’s sustainable farmed Coho) underscores further Peter’s knack with seafood. And did the bubbly chef's recent stints on Vancouver Island (Bear Mountain Resort and Malaspina College) influence the Island wines on the menu? Like much of Raincity’s ingredients Peter’s local roots hail well within a hundred miles. Look for Peters, on past episodes of the Food Network’s 100 Mile Diet (www.100mile.foodtv.ca) Mean Mister Mustard. Did you know that the word “mustard� comes from the unfermented juice of grapes and other fruits called “must� which was added originally instead of vinegar?" asks Robert Remy in a tone that states rather than questions. The French entrepreneur who now makes his home in West Vancouver, spearheaded Vancouver Co. Mustard adds “We have three different MUSTARD blends (Original, Hot, and Old Style) produced for the Canadian market “They are all 100% natural�. Indeed the mustards strike a beautfiul balance between taste and tang. The hot mustard is a feisty number, perfect for a classic steak au poivre. You’ll find Vancouver Co. Mustard at Whole Foods Markets, Choices Markets, Stong’s Market, Oyama Sausage, on the Island at Markt Artisan Deli (in Nanaimo) and other fine BC food emporiums. Log onto www.vmustard.com for more info. Email info@vmustard.com for classic the classic French steak recipe. —by Julie Pegg
The winter has seen many changes in the rich foodie scene in the greater Comox Valley. Several restaurants closed. Among them The Pier and Anderton Bistro in Comox, and The Great Escape in Cumberland. Chef Andrew Stigant was doing great things at the Leeward-cumAnderton Bistro. I look forward to visiting his new venue, Crown Isle's Silverado Steakhouse [399 Clubhouse Drive, Courtenay 250-703-5050]. As well as closures we've seen openings and big splashes. One of the hottest new properties in the region has to be The Mad Chef CafÊ in the former Orbitz Pizza location [492 Fitzgerald Avenue (250) 871-7622]. They’re very active on Facebook. Comox Valley Bakehouse [www.comoxvalleybakehouse.com] is making waves with 17 different types of bread, Montreal-style bagels, and pastries. They do wholesale, retail, and to-your-door deliveries. Yowzah! Chef Ronald St-Pierre of Locals [364-8th Street 250.338.6493, www.localscomoxvalley.com] is both a champion of local food, an amazing restauranteur – and a singer of others' praises. He told us that Aladin's House of Tandoori [275 8th Street 250-871-8552 www.aladinsrestaurant.com] serves "tasty, fresh, and well priced" food with fun and "funky decor." Another source raved about the East African kuku paka (coconut chicken). Fluid [1175-Cliffe Ave 250-338-1500] can be loud and "youthful" for these ears. Our crew dropped in on a quiet (sound-wise) night mid-week and had a great time and great food. I liked that the bartender made the Savoy cocktail (a signature drink from Avenue Bistro) the way I like it, and the late night, mid-week service. Readers of the last issue of EAT (www.eatmagazine.ca | @eatmagazine) will be aware of how much local chefs appreciate Saigon Noodle House [in the strip mall with White Spot and Joey's Fish & Chips] for its prices and flavours. Hana Korean Restaurant [526 Cliffe Avenue 250-334-0868], opened on the corner of Cliffe and 5th. One of my fave foodies Anh raves about it, "eat in or take out." A very different kind of food experience is available on that corner at Rose's Tea Room. A friend tells me that proprietor "Minnie is a lovely person and a great cook. She's created a relaxing place to go for lunch or tea with a friend." As for Anh, she (and my foodie/dance/soul pal Rachel) rave about dim sum at Comox's Bamboo Inn [2040 Comox Avenue 250-339-3500]. Anh's also a fan of the Chicken Udon noodle soup at Yamato Restaurant [597 Cliffe Avenue 250-334-202]. Another foodie "loves" Zizi's CafÊ [441B Cliffe Avenue 250-334-1661]. I’m a fan of their Turkish coffee and baclava. Just around the corner sits Brambles Market, where James and Angelina Street are doing great local food stuff and foodie education via their Facebook and Twitter presence [244A 4th Street (250) 334-8163 www.bramblesmarket.ca | @bramblesmarket]. Very cool. Tita’s Mexican Restaurant [536-6th Street, Courtenay 250-334-8033] is turning 20 (!!) this spring. Wow. Great food and service, always. A regular stop for me and my kids. My neighbour, Bethany Pierce, has gone public: "I'm very picky... and was SUPER IMPRESSED with a meal we just at the Union Street Grill" [477-5th Street, Courtenay 250-897-0081]. As for Atlas [250-6th Street, Courtenay 250-338-9838], I'm with Kim Barzilay who raves: "ALWAYS our first pick !!!!" (I'd tone it down with the exclamation marks, but the sentiments remain.) Which is why I like what happens at Atlas's sister restaurant in Comox, Avenue Bistro [2064 Comox Ave, 250-890-9200 www.avenuebistro.ca | @avenuebistro]. I'm not alone. Another fan exclaimed about the "traditional eggs benny...mmmn,delicious." I recently enjoyed a French 55 cocktail (thanks Freddy - very good) and tuna tower before gorging on papardelle with ribs and beet ravioli... Martine’s Bistro [1754 Beaufort Ave, Comox (250) 339-1199] gives great atmosphere, service, and food. This spring chef
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EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2010
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