Foodie Issue 54: January 2014

Page 38

food for thought

In December 2013, Mirror Restaurant regained its one-Michelin-starred status, but unfortunately the damage was already done. The restaurant served its last meal on 31 December 2013. All Jeremy had to say was, “I would rather they had waited until they were sure.”

own well-earned reputation as being the best restaurant guide in the world by contradicting one of the core principles it demands: consistency. Until this is properly established, the Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau will not be truly appreciated and respected around the world.

Michelin stars have always been something that certain chefs strive for as an acknowledgement that they are among the best of the best. Diners are also continually on the lookout for internationally renowned restaurants that have been awarded for culinary excellence. This is all perfectly fine… until it starts to compromise the financial stability of an establishment and the health of the chef and his or her team – either through the pressure of maintaining or the fear of losing those coveted stars. And when this happens, the perspective is lost.

During the writing of this article, a friend of mine made a great comparison that I would like to share, as I think it gives a bit of an insight as to what the Michelin Guide is going through here in Hong Kong: “You have to treat the Michelin Guide in Hong Kong as if the publication itself were a new restaurant; it’s newly opened, it’s not perfect, it’s having a couple of bumpy services and it’s finding its feet and perfecting its procedures. Given time, I’m sure it will settle down. How many stars would you give the Michelin Guide?” I think that sums it up really well.

The Michelin Guide and its standards here in Hong Kong are in danger of devaluing the brand’s

The Michelin Red Guide is the oldest and most popular European hotel and restaurant guide, established over a hundred years ago by the Michelin tyre manufacturer with the intention of boosting the demand for cars in France. The first editions contained information for motorists that included maps, repair and tyre change instructions and a listing of hotels and petrol stations.

Michelin Star Criteria According to the Michelin Guide itself, restaurants are judged regarding what’s on the plate, meaning the quality of products, the mastery of flavours, execution, personality of the cuisine, value for money and the restaurant’s consistency in serving its menu throughout the year.

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One star: A very good restaurant in its category, offering cuisine prepared to a consistently high standard. A good place to stop on your journey.

Two stars: Excellent cuisine, skilfully and carefully crafted dishes of outstanding quality. Worth a detour.

Three stars: Exceptional cuisine where diners eat extremely well, often superbly. Distinctive dishes are precisely executed, using superlative ingredients. Worth a special journey.


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