DUBAI’S FINEST FOOD & TRAVEL E-MAGAZINE EDITION 13, NOVEMBER 2016
#refresh
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Taste Of Ethiopia
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Advertorial
Do you ever stop to think about where your daily coffee comes from? We do … and we ask you one question:
Why should your coffee travel around the world before it gets to your cup? Most Ethiopian coffee in the UAE and Middle East is purchased by large coffee importers, it’s then shipped to the US or Australia before being imported to this region. We think differently! We source and import fresh high grade organic Ethiopian Coffee directly from small farms in Harar, Ethiopia. But the story don’ts just stop there. We then roast the coffee here in our own roastery and are able to provide coffee to our consumers just a few weeks after it’s been picked.
We truly believe that you can Taste the difference! Welcome to Boon Coffee!
We are a small boutique Ethiopian coffee company based in Dubai founded by Orit Mohammed, a passionate coffee lover and entrepreneur. Find us at our coffee shop in JLT, and The Farmers Market on The Terrace. Enjoy our exclusive blends roasted for La Serre, Baker & Spice, The Change Initiative and Galeries Lafayette.
www.booncoffee.com The origin of coffee, pure and simple
Edition 13, November 2016
Connect with us
www.foodemag.com Ishita B Saha Editor & Co-Founder ishita@foodemag.com T/FB/Instagram: @ishitaunblogged www.ishitaunblogged.com Debbie Rogers Editor & Business Head debbie@foodemag.com FB/Instagram: @coffeecakesandrunning T: @bettyboodubai www.coffeecakesandrunning.com Mita Ray Srinivasan Consultant & Marketing Strategist mita@foodemag.com www.mita56.com
Every month seems more hurried than the previous month - and just when I am about to feel that's the Dubai syndrome, every person I meet seems to feel the same about whichever part of the world they come from!
Refresh & Rewind in 'slow mode' - for good weather is back! We brave the hot Dubai weather for 4 months and reasonably good weather for the remaining 8 months of the year - but whenever we meet people, all we are talking is how hot Dubai is. It's become our habit to complain - whether its the Dubai traffic or the Dubai weather and, in effect we are turning Brits! My visit to my hometown Kolkata this time was filled with a lot of adventure - one of them being daring to take Benjamin Zand of the BBC Travel Show to the culinary backstreets of Decker's Lane as we dug our fingers into food from a 'heritage stall' food that dates back to more than 100 years! Coming back to this edition, we talk about everything that you need to know for enjoying the good weather - whether its packing for picnic baskets - both for adults and kids, or creating a plush 'desi' afternoon tea in your backyard. Recipes, culinary new finds, inspiration and more... Refresh & Rewind, for there is no 'pause' button in our Dubai lives!
Ishita B Saha, Editor & Co-Founder
PS: We have recently rehomed two loving labradors - Cinder and Brownie and our Friday brunches will now have to accomodate not only two kids but also two pooches... as if the Saha household didn't already have enough activity! Prior permission for all editorial content and images have been obtained from contributors and featured sources. Images are sourced from authors for their respective articles unless mentioned otherwise. We have also taken measures to ensure that the info and data mentioned here are accurate. However, we take no responsibility for any factual error or for any misinterpretation, if there have been any.
Ishita is obsessed with street food and learning about culinary cultures across the world. She aspires to travel the world with her family - husband and two daughters – the Z-Sisters, and dreams about writing a book on Bengali cuisine, the kind that can be
[Cover picture credit: Debbie Rogers]
passed on as a wedding trousseau to her daughters.
I am looking forward to the cooler times and great specialty coffee spots that are gradually hitting the corners of the city!
Coffee, coz there's nothing that caffeine can't hit! I stayed in Dubai over the summer, I know it’s hot and humid, but there’s also a lot of ‘cool’ things to do if you keep your eye out. Excuse the pun! In particular I indulged quite a bit on some excellent cold brew coffee. The speciality coffee scene is really picking up now and cold brew is a particularl favoritee of mine. I also redesigned my website CoffeeCakesAndRunning and taught myself Photoshop & Lightroom so I can do more creative photo processing. Of course, I carried on working on some day to day FoodeMag work and future planning too! Finally, I spent some time researching and eventually adopting a puppy which is something I’ve been thinking of doing for a while. Lexi, approximately eight weeks old, part German Shepard, part unknown, was my final choice. She moved in over the summer and has taken a while to get used to living with me and for me to get used to a new puppy routine – hello 4.30 am, it seems this girl thinks it’s play time! It’s been way to hot to take her out much but I’m planning on a winter full of road trips and day trips and a few staycations too – all with Lexi of course as I strongly believe that she should come along when she can. Team FoodeMag is now looking to find and explore new places in the UAE across winter and needless to say, places that are pooch friendly score extra points (but are not essential). If you know of anywhere suitable doggie friendly terraces, places to walk, hotels, trips - please do give us a shout!
Debbie Rogers, Editor & Business Head
Debbie shares her experiences through the joys of eating and travelling, as well as the pains and gains of exercise. She is passionate about Food, Baking, Cooking, Travel and Exercise.
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feeling lazy? order food online on Zomato.
Dubai’s local businesseszomato.com/app giving back to the boys in blue. DOWNLOAD THE APP
Our Specialist Panel Sally Prosser, Food Sourcing Expert In her own words... ‘I am a food blogger, a keen eater… of GOOD food…. and for me that’s about using the best, freshest, tastiest ingredients cooked from scratch.’ Who else can we trust with our food sourcing and market round ups, but Sally? We are proud to have this award-winning conscientious blogger in our panel. www.mycustardpie.com
Prachi Grover, Kids Columnist Prachi declares that her blog has ‘recipes that we have tried and appreciated, cooking victories and failures, kitchen and food related DIY projects that we are working on and more'. We refers to Prachi and Sara, her 7 year old little chefling, whom we have lovingly adopted as our own contributing little expert! Prachi is a Super Ambassador of Jamie Oliver's Food Revolution Programme. www.orangekitchens.net
Special
Contributors
Shafe www.onanordinaryday.com
Laura Allais-Maré www.slowfooddubai.org
Lucy Forbes Taylor www.lucytaylortravels.com
Joe Mortimer www.somewhereinthebetween.org
Special Travel
Columnists
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CONTENT
Markets
Perfect Picnic Fodder
12 16
Special Feature
Desi Afternoon Tea - Recipes and Story
Recipes
Dubai Dining
10
Cookbook
Bread Street Kitchen: Gordon Ramsay
32 40
Chef Talk - Colin Claque, Ruya
Picnic Recipes
20 28
Winning recipes from competition with Bicolored Apples
Cooking with Kids
44
Dubai Dining Carnival by Tresind
48 FoodPreneurs
Kitchen Nation, Tandem
Travel
Cambodia
Kids' Afternoon Tea Al Samar Lounge
56 62
Culinary Travel
Daycation - Scape @ Burj Al Arab
52 54
A tale of two Travellers: Mexico
Dubai Dining
Culinary Travel Cambodian Coffee
64 72
Doing Dubai Differently Urban Rooftop Garden
Note: Some of the articles and/or recipes in this edition may contain reference to alcohol and other ingredients without intentions to hurt any religious sentiment.
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#Markets
A Perfect Picnic...
where to find the delicious fodder! By Sally Prosser
In some parts of the world Autumn mists are settling, feet in wellington boots are swishing through leaves, pumpkins are abundant and nights are drawing in. Here in the UAE there’s a different kind of anticipation; we’re looking forward to months of beautiful, balmy weather and enjoying life outdoors. One of the nicest things is to move from chilly, sterile, air conditioned rooms and out into the fresh air to enjoy a meal. Breakfast on the balcony, dinner on the terrace or a picnic somewhere with a view. Even in a built up city like Dubai there are many open spaces that are just made for settling down on a comfortable rug with something to munch.
Picninc Basket Sandwich
The lush green parks are the first obvious choice and on weekends you will witness the sight of enormous cooking pots, which would house a small child but are, in fact, mounded high with Biryani, being lowered over the railings to feed picnicking families. If you don’t fancy all the picnic prep, how do you ensure your al fresco meal is more Monet than Lowry (and not a soggy sandwich in sight)? Rest assured there are plenty of options.
Fortnum and Mason Lavish outdoor meals have been known of from
early Medieval hunting feasts and since then the wealthier French (who invented the word piquenique) and English took picnic fare very seriously. Here in Dubai Fortnum and Mason, continue their tradition of supplying gourmet delights for outdoor eating (since 1707). In a modern and ingenious take on their famous wicker version they’ve created the portable hamperling made of recyclable paper,
Picnic Basket from BookMunch
which unfolds to reveal printed placemats and napkins. Inside are the essentials for a classic afternoon tea including finger sandwiches (cucumber is an option), scones with clotted cream and jam, pastries and a cup of tea. Available in a solo potion or for two, this can be collected from their store in Downtown Dubai or delivered on request. www.fortnumandmason.com/stores/dubai
Picnic Basket
The Earl of Sandwich is credited with asking for meat between two slices of bread so he didn’t have to leave the gambling tables and ever since then British have taken sandwiches very seriously. Two fans cricket (another very British institution) set up a company called The Picnic Basket and offer an array of homemade style, freshly made sandwiches. Whether an egg, cress and grainy mustard sarnie, a Coronation chicken bloomer or falafels in a protein wrap take your fancy, Guy Potter will send you the menu and talk you through the options ensuring you order the
and with a minimum order (plus a refundable deposit for the picnic basket) this is best for a group gathering. However, the sandwiches, salads, drinks and snacks in one basket should feed 4-6 people, and is delivered in peak condition by refrigerated van. www.picnicbasketme.com/Home or email Guy hello@ picnicbasketme.com
BookMunch
Popular independent café BookMunch has a range of sumptuous picnic baskets which includes a breakfast version and all have lots of choices for children from freshly cut fruit to pinwheel sandwiches (for little hands). They’ll lend you a picnic blanket and give complimentary passes if you are heading for Safa Park. The lunch basket contains a whole freshly baked baguette with a selection of cheese, nuts and pickles for a proper picnic. Different sizes of basket mean you can take lunch for two, or feed a family or more. www.bookmunchcafe.com/picnic-baskets
right amount for your party. It will take a bit of forward planning as you need to order 48 hours in advance
Images: Provided
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#Markets
Picninc Basket Salad
TakeAway Picnic Options
Take away options are available from many cafes and one new place to try is Mitts & Trays at City Walk, founded by UAE’s first female Emirati Chef Patron Amna Al Hashemi. There are tempting looking sandwiches and salads on the menu but their signature Naked Victoria sandwich cake is what turned our heads as the crowning glory for an alfresco feast. Other favourites for freshly made take away sandwiches are Baker and Spice and S’wich. www.mittsandtrays.com www.bakerandspiceme.com www.myswich.com
Picnic on Wheels
If you fancy several modes of transport while you take in the fresh air, Sheraton Dubai Creek Hotel & Towers will provide a picnic for two in a hamper (breakfast or lunch), bike hire, plus an hour’s abra ride. Watch the waters of the Creek lap in your wake as you munch. www.sheratondubaicreek.com
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Naked Victoria sandwich cake from Mitts & Trays
Picnic Basket from Bookmunch
How about a picnic delivered to your doorstep? Finally, with so many delivery apps available in the city including Deliveroo and Uber Eats, it’s possible to have food delivered to any location. A pizza picnic on the beach?
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Just remember to clear up afterwards. Happy picnicking! .
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Images: Provided
#CookingWithKids
are we heading to the beach or the park? By Prachi Grover
Grassy open spaces. Shady spots. Wooden benches. Cozy rugs. Wind streamers. Bubbles. Balls. Skipping Ropes... Nothing builds an appetite like a picnic. Given a choice, my little girl would go for one every Friday. Each Friday during the ‘winter’ months, she will head out to the balcony and say to no one in particular, “Looks like a good day for a picnic! Where do we head – the beach or the park?”
For the picnic, Sara made a ‘no fuss no cooking’ bocconcini, tomato and basil spaghetti which is great because it is best enjoyed when cold; a chilled pomegranate, lemon and mint sparkling water that goes well with many picnic foods and rose cream pots for desserts - perfect when the weather begins to get a little warm.
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Picnic Day...
Then she scurried around like a little mouse, pulling out stuff from her cupboard to set her picnic basket. With Dubai experiencing the last few relatively cooler days, she decided to have her very last picnic for the season with her best friend. We decided to keep the food really simple, something she could “cook” herself. The girls had such a lovely time running around, playing “catch”, blowing bubbles and reading their story books under the tree.
Let’s go – P I C N I C – ing!
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Lemon Pomegranate and Mint Sparkling Water... Makes 6 large glasses
You will need
500 ml pomegranate juice 500 ml lemonade 500 ml sparkling water 10-12 mint leaves
Method • •
Combine the pomegranate juice, lemonade, sparkling water in a large jug. Give it a good mix. Add the mint leaves and serve chilled.
For a memorable picnic... • Look for shade and open space • Rugs or bedsheets to sit and finally lie down on • Basket full of games, books, balls, bubbles, et al • Carry enough water • Some fresh fruits would be nice • A hand sanitizer is a must • Lots of sunscreen, specially in Dubai • Napkins, wet wipes and cutlery • Garbage bags for the disposables • And finally, food - glorious food!
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#CookingWithKids
Picnic Day
...continued
Bocconcini - Tomato and Basil Spaghetti... Makes 6 plates
You will need
•
400 gms spaghetti 4 cloves of garlic 24 cherry tomatoes 24 balls of bocconcini extra virgin olive oil salt a handful of fresh basil
•
Method • •
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Slice the garlic cloves, halve the cherry tomatoes and tear half the basil leaves. Combine all this with the olive oil and add salt (enough oil to coat everything). Leave it to marinate for an hour or more.
•
Boil the spaghetti according to the instructions on the packet. Drain. Pour the tomato, basil and garlic mix along with the oil on to the pasta (Remove the slices of garlic if your child doesn’t like raw garlic). Add the mozzarella balls. Garnish with the leftover basil and serve.
Rose Cream Pots... Makes 6 pots
You will need 500 ml whipped cream ¼ to ½ a cup of white sugar (depending on how sweet you want it to be) 1 tsp rose water few dried rose petals to garnish
Method •
• • • •
In a heavy bottomed pan, combine the whipped cream and the white sugar. Bring it a boil and reduce the heat. Continue to stir it for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and add the rose water. Stir once again. Pour it into small bowls or pots and allow them to come to room temperature. Chill in the refrigerator overnight. Garnish with rose petals and serve.
Images: Prachi Grover
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#SpecialFeature
A Desi Take...
on a typical British picnic! Shafe
So today I share my great picnic ideas and recipes. A great day for me is always better when I am more prepared. The recipes I chose for my picnic is a nod to my Indian heritage and a desi take on a typical English picnic menu.
With the weather getting cooler, what better way to welcoming it but to plan a picnic - pack a cooler, get a flask, get some family or friends and head to the nearest green space you know. Growing up in the UAE without many outdoor activities to do, picnics were a much cherished excursion. Mom packed large casseroles bursting full of flavors, colors and tastes. My sisters and I loved running around, getting on the slides, swings and everything else we could climb on. We would spend hours rolling down the mounds in the parks before savoring the phenomenal Indian fare my mom and aunts and set out for us.
Things to pack for my great picnic • • • • • • • • •
Picnic blankets A few cushions to relax on A foldable table which could double as a sort of buffet table Cake stands that are durable, wood or stone Plates and cutlery Napkins, tissues and disinfectant wipes Garbage bags Drinks Tupperware to bring back food in
Apart from all the things listed above, dont forget to take some cards and other games. The finishing touch would be to take a portable speaker that you can connect to your phone! Images: Sayana Rahiman
chai ~ Tea Tea is one of the most important aspects of my picnics, and a good chai recipe is as important as a great sunny day. A good quality flask is a great investment for days like these.The chai in our house is always light and fragrant.
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Serves 2
Ingredients
¼ cup vegetable oil 2 cups of water 1 tea bags 4 heaped tsp of sugar ½ tin rainbow milk ½ tsp of cardamom powder
Method • • •
Boil the water and add the tea bag, seeping it in for 2 minutes. Add the sugar, milk and cardamom powder and boil for a few more minutes. Pour into the flask.
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#SpecialFeature
...Desi Afternoon Tea
,, Ghee Roast Plantains Serves 2
Ingredients
1 ripe plantain 3 tbs ghee/plantain 2 pinches cardamom powder 2 tsp sugar
Method • • • • • •
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Ghee roasted plantains and coriander chutney sandwiches are trouble-free to prepare that you can make just as you are getting ready for the picnic. This a simple dish that takes only a few minutes to prepare and travels really well in Tupperware.
Slice the plantains at a slight angle. Let the ghee melt in a skillet at medium heat. Place the sliced plantains in the skillet and let the ghee roast them. When them become dark yellow add 1 tsp of sugar and let it caramelize the plantains Sprinkle the cardamom powder over the caramelized plantains. After the plantains have been taken off heat, sprinkle some sugar on top.
Masala Lamb Scotch Eggs Serves 10-12
Ingredients
½ kg Lamb minced 8 eggs 3 diced medium sized onions 1 inch ginger crushed 3 garlic cloves crushed 4 green chilies ( tone this down if your heat tolerance is low) ¼ cup chopped fresh coriander 1 ½ tsp coriander powder ¼ tsp garam masala 2 tsp salt, adjust to taste 200 gms bread crumbs 3 egg white oil enough to deep fry
The Indian lamb scotch eggs can be made ahead and frozen, just to be fried up to a few hours ahead. These masala lamb scotch eggs go great with the chutney that is used to fill the sandwiches as well.
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Method • • • • • • • •
• • •
Boil enough water to immerse 8 eggs and bring to a boil. Add the eggs and keep immersed for 3 to 4 minuites Take them out and put them in cold water for a bit. In a deep skillet pan add 2 tbs of oil and saute ginger, garlic and green chilli till the ends start to darken. Add chopped onions and saute till they soften. Add the coriander powder, garam masala and salt. Add the minced lamb and saute till the mixture becomes dry and crumbly. Then add the coriander leaves After the meat mixture has cooled, a finer paste can be achieved by blending half the meat mixture in a food processer and adding it back to meat mixture. De-shell the eggs and the shape the meat mixture around it shaping it with your fingers. Cool hands work best for this. The meat should be atleast 1 cm thick, if the layer is too thin, it will break open when fried. Roll meat encased eggs in egg white before rolling them in bread crumbs. Make sure the breadcrumbs and evenly coated. Heat the oil in a deep pan and carefully lower the eggs. Deep fry them for 4 to 5 min, turning them every so often until the breadcrumbs go brown and gold. Take them out and drain the oil on a paper towel.
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#SpecialFeature
This recipe is from one of my best friend’s mom. This was a staple in her lunch box in school and she would always bring more for her friends as it was this good. This dish travels great too and I always wrap the sandwich in foil when I take it.
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...Desi Afternoon Tea
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Coriander Chutney Sandwiches Makes for 2 persons
Ingredients
5 cups plain flour ½ cup fresh coriander leaves ½ cup fresh coconut grates 2 tsp ginger crushed or paste 1 green chili (tone this down if you are not heat tolerant) 3 tbs water 2tsp lemon juice salt to taste 4 slices of bread
Method • • • •
Blend all ingredients except the green chili and bread in a food processor. Add the green chilli and pulse twice only. This will prevent the chutney from getting too hot. If the chutney looks too dry add another tablespoon of water or two. Spread the chutney in the bread. White bread is best, but this chutney tasted great brown as well.
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#SpecialFeature
...Desi Afternoon Tea
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The broken wheat layered pudding can be made a day ahead as well and kept refrigerated in mason jars which easy to take and are so pretty to look at!
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Broken Wheat Layered Pudding Makes 6 pots
Ingredients
½ kg broken wheat ½ kg jaggery 750 gms sugar 2 coconuts grated 5 tbs ghee 10 cashew nuts 15 raisins ½ tsp dried ginger ¼ tsp cumin powder 5 cardamoms crushed pinch of salt 1 tbs condensed milk 6 tbs per mason jar coconut powder
Method Layer 1 • In a blender jar add 2 cups of water with the grated coconut and blend • Strain the coconut to achieve a thick coconut milk and keep aside. • Repeat the process with the collected residue coconut and 1½ of water to get a thinner coconut milk which should be strained and kept aside. • In a pot of boiling water, add the broken wheat till it comes out soft. Drain and divide into two bowls evenly. • Add one half of the cooked broken wheat into a deep pan and add all the sugar and mix well in medium heat. Add half of the thinner coconut milk first and mix well for 3-4 min till the mixture looks thicker. Then add half of the thicker coconut milk and mix well till the mixture looks even thicker. • Add the crushed cardamom and the condensed milk to finish the first layer pudding. Pan fry the cashew nuts and raisin in the ghee and add half of it to the pudding. Pour the first layer into mason jars. Layer 2 • Dissolve the jaggery in 1 cup water. In a deep skillet add the rest of the cooked broken wheat and add in the jaggery mixture mix well on medium heat. • Let the mixture boil for 4-5 min, add the rest of the thinner coconut milk. When the mixture thickens, add the rest of the thicker coconut milk and mix till the mixture gets thicker. • Add the dried ginger, cumin powder, crushed cardamom and mix well. Add a pinch of salt to bring out the sweetness. Add the pan fried cashew nuts and raisins. Add to the mason jar in an even layer. Add a thin layer of coconut powder to each mason jar. • Wait till the layers cool down before closing the lid and refrigerating.
#Event
Bread Street Kitchen celebrates it's First Anniversary... and we get to mingle with Gordon himself! By Debbie Rogers It’s not often that you get to meet a celebrity chef who you feel that you have grown up with. But that’s what happened recently when Ishita and I were invited to lunch with Gordon Ramsay to celebrate the 1st Anniversary of Bread Street Kitchen here in Dubai. Lunch was a casual affair with plenty of signature dishes served up in a carefully curated menu which Gordon and the team had created. Our lunch included Gordon’s infamous Beef Wellington perfectly paired with Truffle Mash which I adored. I make no apologies for being a Brit here while enjoying some good old British comfort food. It’s a dish that I’ve made myself at home for dinner parties, but this one is elevated with a few Gordon twists and of course who can resist a truffle mash, not me for sure!
The invite from Bread Street Kitchen
Gordon was on a tight schedule as he was in Dubai with a full calendar. He had just arrived from Le Pressoir d’Argent in Bordeax which also celebrated it’s first anniversary and was then heading off to the States for a TV show. Gordon mingled casually with his guests, and we did manage to spend a decent time with him chatting about his current projects. Topics of conversation included the challenge of balancing being a Chef, TV celebrity and business man as well as his family and how his kids loved cooking. His daughter Tilly even has her own cooking show Matilda And The Ramsay Bunch on CBBC that Ishita's 12 yeard old daughter is quite a fan of. I must admit I’m a huge Gordon fan, and have seen many his shows. It feels like I’ve almost grown up with him on the TV and whilst chatting to him it turned out that we are virtually the same age! Chatting with Gordon was one of the most casual celebrity chats I’ve had, to be honest I felt like I was catching up with an old friend or relative rather than meeting someone for the first time. I could have spent ages chatting to Gordon but alas our time was up although we did manage to catch a few photos and a blurred selfie with him just before he left!
Who is your celebrity brother or sister (or maybe a lover)? Our chat with Gordon evoked memories from long back right up to today and we can't wait to spend more time with him next time!
#CookBook
Currently, we are cooking from... Bread Street Kitchen! As a parting gift to our lunch with Gordon, we were given a signed copy of Bread Street Kitchen Cookery book which has just been released and has been on our ‘must buy’ list for a while. The book starts off with a short introduction on “Coooking the Breadstreet way”, recognising the differences between a home and commercial kitchen and highlighting that a few tweaks have been made to the recipes, but the methods are virtually the same. There’s an emphasis on ingredients with Gordon urging readers to source the best ingredients possible, buy seasonal produce and to have a respect for animal welfare and sustainable fishing - All principles which we fully support.
We’re focussing this issue on eating outdoors and our curated Bread Street Picnic would include the following dishes: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
Sweetcorn & green chilli fritters with red pepper relish and avocado Potted beef with Piccalilli Tomato and Burrata tart Superfood salad Focaccia Broad bean, spinach and mint dip Butternut squash, mushroom and Gruyere flatbreads Tamarind Spiced chicken wings BSK Burger Bang Bang Chicken Salad Strawberry Trifles Walnut Chocolate chip cookies Honey bee banana smoothie Maple syrup iced coffee and perhaps a cocktail or two.
Is this a picnic you would love to share with your friends and family?
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The book is split into 8 sections each one with recipes to match the section. Starting off with Get Going, featuring sweet and savoury options, each section works its way towards the final section on dinner with friends. It’s hard to pick favourite sections as there’s plenty for everyone but some of the ones where we think we will cook from the most include Brunch, Food for Sharing, The Big Weekend and Midweek Suppers. Here’s a few of our favourite picks - Brunch – Spicy Scrambled eggs & Ricotta pancakes. Food for Sharing – Tamarind Spiced Chicken wings and Spiced Prawns. The Big Weekend – Spatchcocked poussins, Roast Beef with caramelised onion gravy, Garlicky Mashed Potatoes and Strawberry, Nectarine and Rosewater Eton Mess are high on the list of dishes to cook – this was the hardest selection to choose from. Virtually all the recipes have a beautiful photo of the finished dish next to them, which is always useful, inspiring and adds to the overall feeling of the book. Nothing looks too complicated and a quick flick through feels like most ingredients can be sourced in Dubai. A few drink recipes are scattered through the book, including alcoholic and non-alcoholic ones so there’s something for everyone. The hardback book is certainly one that will be staying on the bookshelf close to the kitchen. It’s full of practical recipes which look ‘doable’ and would be good to impress but not overly complicated.
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#Recipe
By Cesar Bartolini Chef de Cuisine: Bread Street Kitchen & Bar
Beef Wellington Serves 2
Ingredients 400gm beef fillet 200gm flat mushrooms 4 crepes English mustard 200gm puff pastry 2 egg yolks salt and pepper olive oil
Method • • • • • • •
In a large pan, heat some oil and quickly fry the seasoned beef all over until brown. Remove and cool down. The beef should be seared to seal and not cooked at all. Meanwhile, finely chop the mushrooms and cook in a little oil until al the liquid has evaporated.Then cool. Once cooled, brush the beef generously with the mustard and cover with the mushroom puree. Wrap in the slices of parma ham, then roll tightly in cling film and chill for 20-30 minutes. Roll out the pasry quite thinly and rest for 5 mins in the fridge. Remove the beef from the cling film and wrap the pastry around so it completely covers the meat. Egg wash and chill, then egg wash again. This gives you a beautiful golden colour. Bake at 200 degrees for 25-30 minutes. And then rest for 5 minutes. Serve with roasted carrots, truffle mash and marrowbone sauce.
Images: From FoodeMag lunch at Bread Street Kitchen & Bar
... from Bread Street Kitchen Chicken Wings Marination Serves 5 kg marination
Ingredients
20 gm chillli powderr 20 gm cumin powder 10 gm coriander powder 5 gm turmeric 50 gm paprika 10 gm garam masala 100 gm onion powder 50 gm garlic salt 1 lemon juice 100 gm flour 30 gm corn starch 4 eggs salt 10 gm dijon mustard 50 ml oil
Method • • •
Rub the wings with all the dry spices until evenly coated then add the wet ingredients and mix again. Set aside until needed. Coat with equal parts of flour and corn flour before frying for 10 minutes at 180ºC.
And, we are drooling over...
Tamarind Sauce Ingredients 200 gm fennel seeds 200 gm cumin seeds 20 gm black peppercorns 250 gm tomato paste 500 gm ketchup 10 onions 3 crushed garlisc 6 bayleaves 1.5 lt Worcestershire sauce 500 gm brown sugar 600 gm honey 15 lt chicken stock 300 ml white wine vinegar 50 gm coriander seeds 500 ml oil 2 corinader stems 2 buns salt
Method • • •
Wellington Wednesdays at Bread Street Kitchen & Bar, Atlantis The Palm: Served with a truffle mash, this signature dish is more like a Sunday lunch for two to share.
• •
Roast all spices in pan and coarse grind them Heat oil add garlic, chopped onions, bayleaves. Cook well. Add spices, vinegar, sugar, honey and cook. Add tomato paste, tamarind, Worcestershire sauce and cook. Add chicken stock and reduce to a glaze. Adjust seasoning. Garnish with coriander.
From 6:00pm to 10:30pm, AED 300 per person for a Set Menu including carafe of house wine for two.
Image of Tamarind spiced Chicken Wings: Provided
#WinningRecipes
Apples...
so sweet & sour!
This amazing competition was courtesy of Bicolored Apples from Europe, and our participants had to share their creative apple recipes with us and tell us a bit about their recipes - we love to hear what inspired their dish and whether it had been a favourite with their family or not. While we are publishing only the 6 winning recipes here, what we loved about all the recipes submitted was that, they not only seemed tempting but were also easy and practical to make at home.
Brought to you by Bicolored Apples from Europe www.apples-europe.com
Vijitha Aruinayagam, our First Prize winner.
The First Prize was a luxury weekend stay for two at Sofitel Dubai Palm Resort & Spa that included 2 nights stay in a Luxury Sea View Room (breakfast and half board), a private cooking class followed by dinner with a set menu inclusive of soft drinks at Porterhouse Restaurant on one day and dinners on both days. The Second Prize was a Magimix Duo XL Juicer that not only juices, but can shred and slice veggies too. The Third Prize was a smoothie maker and recipe book - perfect for whipping up some healthy smoothies for you and the family.
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Bahar Yeganeh, our Second Prize winner, while her husband collects her gift on her behalf (right image).
Zendy Marsam, our Third Prize winner.
Beetroot & Apple Soup Ingredients 1 tbsp vegetable oil 3 peeled beetroots 1 onion 3 apples 1 ½ tsp salt ½ tsp fresh ground pepper 4 tbsp apple cider 1 cup sour cream mustard seeds
Method • • • •
Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add beetroots and onions and cook until the onions soften — for about 5 minutes. Add apples and cook for 5 more minutes. Add 1 teaspoon salt, pepper, 2 tablespoon apple cider and 4 cups of water. Bring soup to a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook until beets are tender — about 40 minutes. Puree small batches of soup in a blender until smooth, adding remaining apple cider if necessary to reach the desired consistency. Bring soup to room temperature and chill until ready to serve.
Serving Instructions •
Make sour-cream mixture: Combine the remaining ingredients in a small bowl and serve a tablespoon of the mixture with each serving of the soup
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Serves 4
By Vijitha Aruinayagam
This soup has been close to my heart as my mom makes this as a quick solution for heartburn and gastritis. Its easy and quick too.
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#WinningRecipes
Apple Cup Souffle with Barberry-Nut-Halawa Sauce
My love for dessert and breakfast inspired me to create this healthy recipe. Being a registered dietitian/nutritionist, I'm constantly on a mission to create healthy, yet satisfying recipes for my patients, as well as for my friends and family. This apple cup souffleĚ will satisfy any sweet tooth, and serve as a nutritionally well-balanced plate. So, you can eat it as your breakfast, snack or dessert!
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I chose the barberries and halawa to create the sauce since they both remind me of my childhood days, growing up in a Persian household. Barberries are widely used in many savory Persian dishes. The halawa was a rare treat given to my siblings and I only on occasion, hence I have a distinct memory of its taste.
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...from our Reader Competition
Apple Cup Souffle with Barberry-Nut-Halawa Sauce Ingredients For the Sauce 2 tbsp barberries 1 ½ tbsp finely chopped almonds 1 ½ tbsp finely chopped walnuts 3 tbsp halawa ¼ cup water For Apple Cup Souffle 4 apples ½ lemon or lime 2 tbsp water 2 eggs (separate the yolks from egg white) 1 tsp cinnamon 1 tsp orange zest
Method
For the Sauce • Simmer the barberries with two tablespoons of water until softened. • Add the almonds and walnuts and mix until slightly toasted. Add the halawa and remaining water. • Mix all ingredients to a smooth, creamy consistency. Pour over each apple cup souffle and serve. For Apple Cup Souffle • Preheat the oven to 190º Celsius. • Slice off the bottom and top of all four apples, so that each apple sits flat. Rub the top edge of each apple with a lemon or lime to prevent browning. • Scoop out the inside of the apples with a melon scooper/teaspoon. Place the scooped apple into a pan with two tablespoons of water. Make sure to remove any seeds. • Cover and simmer for 5-10 minutes or until soft. Use a sieve to push the cooked apple into a bowl along with two egg yolks and cinnamon 8. Beat all the ingredients together. • In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until you see stiff edges form. Fold in the apple/egg yolk mixture into the whisked egg white. Spoon the mixture into each apple cup and flatten the top. • Place the apple cups on a baking tray and bake for 20-25 minutes. • Pour the sauce on top of each apple cup souffle and serve.
All images & recipes submitted by the participants
Serves 4
By Bahar Yeganeh
Bicolored Apples from Europe – What makes them so special? • • •
• • •
Unique taste and Aroma: European apples are grown far away from big cities, breathing clean air and basking in warm sunshine. They have earned global recognition for their unique taste and aroma. Grown in an ideal Climate: Grown in Europe, Bicolored apples are subject to distinct wet and dry seasons with hot and dry conditions. The warm sunny days and cool night temperatures tend to make the apples sweeter. Bicolored Apples have a sweet and sour taste due to the climate and conditions at cultivation. From Field to Table: Bicolored Apples are manually harvested and only harvested when the conditions are right and they are at the right stage of ‘ripeness’. The apples come from verified, registered and identifiable orchards meaning that we can trace the route back to each Orchard. From the Orchard through to the supermarket, we have implemented rigorous procedures to ensure the quality of our Apples. Heritage: Bicolored Apples owe their strength to the European soil which has been nurtured over the generations, and ends in a well-managed production process. Quality Control: Bicolored apples are produced under strict European Food Safety systems. People with Passion: It’s not just about processes and standards, it’s important to remember that the success of the apples are also down to the people who manage the Orchards from where they are grown – people with real passion.
TASTE THE DIFFERENCE! Different types of apples have unique taste profiles, how do you know which to buy? For instance, if you’re planning on baking an apple pie you will need a firm apple with some tartness and lots of flavour. If you prefer to eat your apple raw then there are different choices too. Here’s a bit more about the different taste profiles of the apples which might help you make the best choice and to help you identify them when you are shopping. • • • •
Gala: Creamy, firm and juicy flesh with a sweet flavour and very pleasant aroma Red Jona Prince: Creamy, hard and very firm flesh, with a sweet-sour taste, very aromatic Gold Delicious: Creamy yellow, juicy flesh and aromatic with very good taste Idared: Creamy, firm flesh and juicy taste
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#WinningRecipes 3 Way Bicolored Apple Surprise
By Zendy Marsam
Serves 2
Ingredients For Apple Sauce 1 and ½ large apples, cored and chopped 1 tbsp natvia ½ tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp fresh lime juice For Mousse 1 cup low fat plain yogurt ½ cup coconut cream 1 /3 cup natvia 1½ tbsp unsweetened gelatine powder For Apple Glaze 2 cups of apple juice 1 tbsp unsweetened gelatine powder A few drops of red food colouring For Caramelized Apple 2 large bicolored apples, cored and thinly sliced 1½ tbsp brown sugar ½ tsp margarine ½ tsp ground cinnamon
My '3-Way Bi-Colored Apple Surprise' is a re-created bicolored apple dessert – with 3 different apple styles incorporated. The skin of the half-apple shape is a thin Apple Jelly layer that is coloured red reminiscent of the fruit. A green bi-coloured skin effect hides under an edible Impatiens flower in the form of crushed pistachio nuts. Cutting the apple open reveals the drama with the contents oozing out similar to a lava cake. Inside, a coconut mousse represents the white flesh of the apple. The light-textured mousse is sugar-free adopting a yogurt base to keep things vaguely healthy! The 'ooze' of the dessert - the central core of the apple – is a spiced apple coulis. This adds an intricate cinnamon and clove flavour - and a touch of surprise to the ensemble. A fringe of caramelised apples ground the composition onto the plate and add a third delightful bi-colored apple flavor. I'm sure this dessert will thrill the guests at my next dinner party!
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Method For Apple Sauce • Place all the ingredients in a saucepan with a splash of water. • Simmer until reduced to a sauce. • Let the sauce cool and then place into small round ice-cube moulds and freeze. For Mousse • Add 4 tbsp of coconut cream into the gelatine and mix it immediately. • Leave it for few minutes and then melt in the microwave until it turns into a liquid. • Add the natvia, yogurt and coconut cream into a mixer and mix at high speed until thickened. • Add gelatine mixture and stir well to combine. For Apple Glaze • In a sauce pan, place the apple juice and gelatine. Let it cook until the gelatine dissolves. • Add the red food colouring. • Bring it to a slight boil, then remove and let it cool. For Caramalised Apple • In a frying pan, add sugar and let it melt and caramelise. • Add the margarine and apple. • Let the apples cook on a low heat for 8-10 minutes, then remove from the pan. To Assemble • Prepare a spherical mould (the size of an apple) and pour 1/4 the yogurt mousse into each mould. • Add the frozen apple sauce into the centre then cover with some more yogurt mousse. Keep it in the freezer until you need it. • Pull the yogurt mousse half-spheres from each mould and put on a rack. Pour the apple glaze over the top of the forms until evenly coated. Place on a plate and keep in the fridge until you serve. • Place the caramelised apples into a circular pattern in the middle of a serving plate. Carefully place the half-apple form on top. Sprinkle with some crushed pistachio nuts.
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...from our Reader Competition
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A fully vegan, gluten-free, refined sugar-free dessert that looks intriguing, tastes amazing, and has taken back to memories of my past.
Blackberry & Apple Pie Serves 2
By Sandy Edge
Ingredients
Method
For Pie Casing 2 apples
For Pie Casing • Cut a circular cone into the top of the apple, about 1.5 cm in diameter. Set the conical piece aside for decoration. • Using a melon-baller, scoop out the flesh from the inside of the apple – leaving 7-8 mm of apple adjacent to the skin. Remove the core and set the flesh aside. • Cook the apple in a sous vide bath set at 80 degrees Celsius (175º Fahrenheit for 30 minutes. Remove and allow to cool. For Blackberry & Apple Reduction • Place the apples and blackberries into a saucepan and cover the bottom of the pan with half a centimetre of water. Add the vanilla and cinnamon. • Cover the saucepan and bring to a low simmer for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally. For Pastry • Place the flour and nut meal in a bowl together with the xanthan gum and salt. Mix well. • Add the coconut oil (in a solid state) and rub together with your fingers. (The pastry mix may not clump together like a normal shortcrust pastry). Carefully add cold water to the pastry mixture. Add only a little at a time and keep mixing well before adding more water, so that you judge when you do not need to add any more. • When the pastry mixture is clumping together and becoming a little sticky then roll out and sprinkle the granola on top – pressing gently into the pastry. Shape the pastry onto circles that are just larger than the diameter of your apples. Cut a hole on the middle of the pastry circles to form a ring. • Bake in the oven on 180º Celsius for 15-20 minutes or until slightly browned. Remove and let cool. For Custard • Heat the almond milk in a pan with the natvia to just below boiling point, stirring often. Meanwhile, finely grate a small amount of turmeric into a small bowl. Add 2 tsp of cold water and press the turmeric into the water with the back of a teaspoon to transfer the colour. Strain the turmeric juice through a fine sieve. • Add the cornflour, vanilla paste and cinnamon and mix into a paste. • Add the paste to the milk mixture and bring to a gentle simmer, constantly stirring. Keep simmering until you get the consistency you want. If you require a thicker custard, add more cornflour. For Assembly • Place the apples slices and pastry rings into a reformed apple shape. Carefully spoon in the Blackberry and Apple reduction. Serve with some fresh blackberries with the Custard on the side.
For Blackberry And Apple Reduction Discarded apple flesh from the pie casing One punnet of fresh blackberries ½ pod of vanilla bean seeds (or ½ teaspoon of vanilla bean paste) 2 cinnamon sticks For Pastry ½ cup quinoa flour ½ cup of macadamia nut meal (cashews or almonds can be used) 2 tbsp cold-pressed coconut cil (in solid form – place in the fridge) 1 tsp xanthan gum a pinch of salt cold Water a sprinkle of granola For Custard 200 ml almond milk, 1 tbsp natvia (a stevia natural sweetener) ½ tsp vanilla paste, 2 tsp cornflour 1 cm of fresh turmeric A pinch of cinnamon cold water
#WinningRecipes Hassleback Apple with Rosemary & Salted Caramel Parfait Serves 4-6
Ingredients Salted Caramel Parfait • 3 egg yolks • 200 ml whipping cream (40 ml for the salted caramel and 160 for the parfait) • 80 gm sugar • ½ tsp sea salt Hasselback Apple • 2 medium apples (cored and peeled – reserve the peels) • 1 tbsp melted unsalted butter • 1 tbsp brown sugar • ½ tsp cinnamon powder • a pinch of salt Rosemary Streusel • 2 tbsp cold unsalted butter cut into small pieces • 1 tbsp flour • 1 tbsp rolled oats • 2 tbsp brown sugar • ¼ tsp cinnamon powder • ½ tsp minced rosemary Apple Crisp • peels from 1 apple • 1 tsp sugar • ½ tsp rosemary (minced) • a pinch of salt
Method Salted Caramel Parfait • Create a caramel in a saucepan with the sugar on medium heat. • Once it reaches the amber colour, put in the cream and stir vigorously to prevent clumping, till it is smooth. • Add the salt and turn off the gas. Set aside. • For the parfait, whisk the egg yolks well till they are pale and creamy. • Now, add the salted caramel sauce and continue whisking on high till it reaches the ribbon stage. • Then, in a separate bowl, whisk the 160 ml of whipping cream till it reaches soft peaks. And, fold it into the egg-salted caramel mixture. • Pour this into a prepared cake tin with parchment paper and cover. Set in the freezer for a minimum of three hours or till set. Hasselback Apple • Preheat the oven to 200ºC. • Mix together the butter, sugar and cinnamon powder and salt. • Cut the apple into equal halves and slice each half hasselback style – 1 cm thick slices with the base intact. • Brush the butter mixture generously onto the apples and place on a parchment • paper. Cover with aluminum foil and bake in the oven for 20 minutes. • In the meanwhile, prepare the crumble.
Rosemary Streusel • Mix together all the dry ingredients. • Put in the cold butter and crumble it with your fingers, till it all resembles sand. Set in the fridge till it is needed. • When the 20 minutes of the Apple Hasselback is up, take it out and crumble this mixture on the top. • Place the tray of apples with the crumble back into the oven at 250 C till browned from the top. Apple Crisp • Place the peels on a parchment paper. Sprinkle with the sugar, rosemary and salt. • • Cover with another parchment paper and top with a heavy cake tin. • • Bake in the oven for 10 minutes till dark golden in colour. • *You can do this in the last 10 minutes of the apple hasselback baking procedure.
To assemble • • •
Place the apple halves on a plate and place two quinelles of the salted caramel parfait on the side. Crush the apple crisp on the top of the parfait and place a peel against it as well. Serve while the apple is warm.
#WinningRecipes
...from ...fromour ourReader ReaderCompetition Competition
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Place this filled cone in a serving plate, cream mixture will start oozing out, slightly drizzle the juice/water which was left when apples were boiled. It gives a sweet & sour flavor to the dish. Garnish with nuts of your choice!
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Kunafa Cone with Apple Mango Purée & Cream Serves 4-6
Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • •
Kunafa pastry 200 gms butter 1 ½ tsp sugar syrup 2 tbsp red food color a pinch dissolved in water fresh beaten cream 3 tbsp mango puree ¼ cup Bicolored apples ¼ cup cut in small squares cardamom powder a pinch water ½ cup sugar 1 tbsp lemon juice ¼ tsp
By Naina Shakeb
Method • • • • • • •
Take around 150 - 200 gms of kunafa, and shred it hard as it has to be finely shredded first, and then add butter and keep working with hands to separate each strand well and butter should be mixed evenly. Take a small cone shape mould, and wrap kunafa strands evenly all around it, it will take few minutes to wrap neatly and make it into a cone shape. Now bake this cone for about 20 to 25 minutes at preheated oven at 180ºdegrees. Remove from oven and let it cool, drizzle sugar syrup all over the cone. Peel and cut apple into very small squares and boil in water, lemon juice, cardamom & sugar till apples are soft. Drain & reserve water and cool apples. Beat fresh cream , add mango puree into it, do not mix puree completley. Fill Kunafa cone with mango cream and apple chunks.
I devour recipe videos, articles and blogs on food, and food shows on a regular basis, and my inspiration to cook comes from all of this. The recipe for this dish is a combination of ‘Tasty’ videos and MasterChef Australia, which has been inspiring me since its first season. So many of my skills, or attention to detail in cooking has come from watching the Masterclasses in the first few seasons. The last two seasons of the show have been focusing a lot on parfaits – the French ice cream like dessert. So, when it came to this competition with Bicolored Apples, I was interested to see how I could pair a parfait and apple. This dessert is a classic hot-cold dessert – hot, baked apples with a crumble, served with a cold, creamy salted caramel parfait. To add a twist, I have crisped up the apple peels and used rosemary in it as well as in the crumble. It is simple and a delight to eat for some warmth and comfort.
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#DubaiDining
Carnival By Tresind... a 'post-
modern' Indian fine dining experience exuding casual fun! By Ishita B Saha
Vada Pao Service is a humble ode to the mill workers who first invented this dish.
A delicious preview to the very anticipated restaurant launch of Carnival by Tresind with a 15 course menu can only be followed by sighs - sighs of content. Our initial thought on this - you have to savour the dining experience slowly as the tasting menu rolls out like a musical crescendo until it hits the highest note when the last dish is served. We are literally transported to a carnival from one's childhood tiny kites stuck on copper twig branches, balloons swaying in the air and bubbles streaming out from a bubbleator as we are ushered in and settle into our seats. Dining here can't be hurried and a culinary carnival soon a. Our advice for the diner - Carnival by Tresind is not Tresind (the popular Indian fine dining restaurant that brings this new dining venture). It is definitely "different" from Tresind and that's how a diner should approach it.
Carnival by Tresind is open daily for lunch from 12pm-3pm and dinner from 7pm11:30pm. Happy Hours and Carnival's early bird menu with bar snacks available daily from 5pm-7pm. Location: Burj Daman, DIFC Reservations: +971 0522424262 and for group bookings and menu customizations, email at carnival@passionfandb.com
The bar area has an edgy feel - a move away from the rest of the decor which has a nice, romantic feel to it.
THE MENU CONCEPT Executive Chef Himanshu Saini and his brilliant team from Tresind has created a quirky menu where each dish is inspired from childhood memory and nostalgia of every individual in the team. Much like the word carnival refers to a gathering of people and celebration, this too is a celebration – celebration of Indian food, its heritage and culture. There are references to different regions and its culinary cultures – for example in UP, where jalebis accompany a hearty breakfast of Phapras or Poha, and this gives rise to the Jalebi chaat named lovingly as ‘Life is short, eat dessert first’ or the vegetarian dish ‘Gol Hatti’ named after the eponymous food joint in Chandni Chowk that dates back to 1954. Their famous Chhole Palak Chawal is cooked in kullhad or clay containers and Himanshu replicates the same dish in Carnival and insists that he has been able to maintain the authenticity of its taste. Presentation is quirky – not too molecular or over the top, although clearly a few cooking techniques have been incorporated. But what does post-modern Indian cuisine actually refer to? Himanshu explains: “If Tresind is for the future, Carnival by Tresind is looking back at history."
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Images: Ishita B Saha
THE FOOD What we loved: The staff is hands well versed with the menu. While we tried the 15 course non-vegetarian tasting menu, a few vegetarian items from the menu were sent to us along with the chefs’ favourite picks – like Gol Hatti! A lit up Halloween plastic pumpkin set out the mood at the table as we munched into mini Kulchas stuffed with mashed sweet pumpkin. The Makhan Phal followed next – a creamy cacao butter hive topped with avocado and lime cream. As we popped this cold cube of deliciousness into our mouth, it melted like butter. The next was La Tomatina Beverage Soup, a clear light soup obtained by cold pressing the tomatoes. The soup was served inside a green bottle with an edible bottle stopper made with bread stick coated with cheese and had to be sipped after pouring it into a tiny chilled glass. The drama enhanced further with Life is short, eat dessert first – a jalebi chat that wasn’t as sweet as we had envisioned with the sweet crunches of jalebi dunked into a yoghurt mousse and a bed of spiced chickpeas. Continuing with the drama, the next dish that was served resembled the sweet ladoos – but was actually the Indian Fried Chicken, a pakora made with minced chicken and coated with boondis. This was followed by the delicious palate cleanser – the Malai Baraf, a litchi granita in raspberry rose water and fresh cream sprinkled with edible gold dust. that has been made in-house. The prawn dish Pullinji takes in its inspiration from South India with a strong tempering of South Indian spices playing with caramelised sauce of ginger and palm sugar, and a crispy curry leaf in an avant garde avatar acting as a crowning garnish. The Oranjee or an orange and kaffir lime popsicle followed next. 'See' Food, a scallop dish served in a shell platter with an Assam Tea Dashi poured on top maintained the delicate flavours of the scallop while the Utterly Butterly had a playful to the iconic Indian butter brand – the Amul butter with spicy cheese toast served as a side to the juicy and succulent Wagyu beef slices. The Mutton Dressed as Lamb had a tender cake of soft Galouti kebab with a bone attached to it with a rich marrow Nihari jus pouring on top and to be eaten with soft flat bread. The brilliant end to the seeming main course came with the Dal Phulka, a yellow lentil cappuccino topped with truffle ghee and cumin coco with a phulka cookie by the side. With a few dishes sent out to our table outside the main tasting menu, I am not sure whether the dramatic Vada Pao Service is a part of the non-vegetarian tasting menu. Chef Himanshu Saini pays tribute to the humble Vada Pao and to its origin as a millworker’s simple lunch meal by adorning the garb of a mill worker, complete with helmet and a toolkit. He then gives it a dramatic makeover by crushing the potato patty in its bun and sprinkling green chilies, tamarind chutney, chopped vegetables and crispy sevs. The desserts match up to the quirkiness of the menu that we tasted so far and doesn’t seem too heavy. Go Bananas is a Banoffee pie in its South Indian avatar served on banana leaves. Imagine Betel Leaf Macarons overthrowing the need to taste the real betel leaves as the final mouth freshener after a heavy Indian meal! Or choosing Kappi, Carnival’s version of South Indian filter coffee over the real one – strong coffee-infused chocolate pebbles served with chocolate chips and caramelised lotus seeds. The final showstopper comes in with Rustom – mini ice-cream sandwiches served in a doll house. This has nostalgic reference to traditional Parsi houses in Mumbai and the dessert is inspired by Bombay’s famous K Rustom ice cream sandwiches with layers of the famous Parsi Laganu custard.
Vada Pao that can be spiced up and spiced down according to one's preferences.
Lobster Poutine with hollandaise, tarragon and house fries
#DubaiDining
The Mystery Tea – a cocktail made with vodka, raspberry, vanilla and elderflower
So, do you think that Dubai is ready for progressive dining? The Makhan Phal – a creamy cacao butter hive topped with avocado and lime cream
Amul Butter, the quintessential Indian brand of butter that lends to nostalgia
TEAM LUNCH AT CARNIVAL BY TRESIND Our tasting preview of the 15 course menu was soon followed by a team lunch to discover more dishes that the Carnival kitchen had been envisioning post the launch - a sample from the a la carte as well as some dishes still in prrogress. What struck throughout our meal was the constant element of surprise that struck us with each dish. Thankfully, there were more hits than misses - with a few stand out dishes being the Indian Ocean and the signing off fruit platter aptly named Chaat wala, marred in chaat masala and spices - a successful arty marriage of street food and fine dining. Given that a lot of fine dining ndian restaurants in Dubai are currently focussing on presentation and novelty in taste, it will be interesting to see how Carnival by Tresind stands the test of time and surges forward riding on its strength - creativity in its menu while remaining authentic to Indian cuisine.
Images: Debbie Rogers
...Carnival by Tresind continued
Life is short, eat dessert first – a jalebi chat with sweet crunches of jalebi dunked into a yoghurt mousse and a bed of spiced chickpeas
Indian Ocean - the 'Alinea' inspired culinary performance where live sketching forms a backdrop to the food served
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#DubaiDining
Rüya...
a dream begins, with a slice of fine Anatolian cuisine! By Ishita B Saha
How did the idea of Rüya take shape? We had a conversation with the owners (Umut Özkanca and his father Razim Özkanca, the former being an heir to the family of restauranteurs, and owners of d.ream group - Dogus Restaurant Entertainment and Management, who have earlier brought Coya, Nusret, and Zuma to Dubai) – their vision and dream was to open a modern Anatolian restaurant and suggested me to take a trip to Turkey so that I could take it from there. My first trip was for 6-7 days, mainly to Istanbul and then to the Mediterranean with the objective to ‘just eat’! That was purely for inspiration and we have quite a few dishes in the opening menu that have evolved from there. With more than three thousand years of history behind Turkish and Ottoman cuisine, there are thousands of recipes that we can use in translating a rich cuisine into a modern menu.
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Images: Ishita B Saha
Colin Claque is no ordinary chef. Apart from the culinary aristocracy behind him - Zuma, Qbara and Jean-Georges Vongerichten, most legendary chefs that I have met until now describe Colin as a culinary genius. 'Rüya' means dream in Turkish and when he says that the 'Rüya' menu is 'something I could do for the rest of my life', we can be sure that this place is going to be dreamy like no other, and definitely #colinisque!
The interiors are not overwhelming at all. So who is Rüya’s target audience? It’s a modern interpretation of an Anatolian restaurant. The bread oven at the centre of the restaurant is a signature of that. The kitchens are open and the design is very clean and relaxing. There is something for everybody and the exclusive accessibility via a lift enhances the location. Is Rüya a complete departure from the Colin Claque that we have known so far? No, not at all. If you say Zuma was the beginning and Qbara was another big break, then this is just another evolution. While for Qbara, I concentrated on whole of the Middle East, now I have Anatolia to focus on.
Images: FoodEMag dxb
The decor has nuances of Anatolia - starting from the tiles to the small touches in the serving plates
Each dish in RĂźya is a modern interpretation of a traditional Turkish dish. With more than 50 dishes on the menu (excluding desserts), there is something for everybody. The aim is to elevate age-old Turkish cuisine for the international palate and to establish RĂźya as a successful global brand.
The terrace overlooking the Dubai Marina that hopes to bring in the charm of al fresco dining of Turkey to this modern day city
#DubaiDining
...Rüya continued Is that more of a challenge or is it easier to focus on one region? Turkey is so vast. If you go down to the South towards Syria, it’s so Middle Eastern and then you have Hungarian and Mediterranean influences – I think could do this for the rest of my life! There are so many marvelous recipes and you could give a twist and special touches and that’s it. So are we expecting the menu to be #colinisque - use of fresh local produce and beautiful presentation? Yes, absolutely. Local where I can it, also there are many ingredients from Turkey to make it authentic. I have been using Australian beef for the last 20 years and I am not going to change that. Which are the Top 5 dishes that you would come back to Rüya with your family? Definitely a few restaurant style dishes and these would be the Levrek, Lakerda, Kuymak – the porridges and the cheesy fondues and of course, Liz’s desserts (Liz Stevenson, has been the former pastry chef of Qbara). The menu is compact, do you plan to expand it? The menu is going to change regularly. From my experience, you can never take away a few dishes off the menu, as they become signatures for the restaurant. That would consist of around 5060% of the menu and there will always be some 25% that you can really play with and you hope that these move fast so that you can again bring on some new creations. When we think of Turkish cuisine, we think it’s more of street food. Was it difficult to translate into fine dining? Turkish food is phenomenal and the balance of flavour is absolutely perfect. Without sounding rude, it lacks in presentation. I am not reinventing the wheel but I am just taking a dish that has been there for a several hundred years and putting it in a more restaurant style presentation. We have sourced not only ingredients from Turkey but also traditional plates that have been hand painted or the claypots that have already existed for more than three thousand years. Your travel that has inspired the Rüya menu. Was this menu already in your mind when you had started travelling? The owners had wanted me to create a modern interpretation of Anatolian cuisine and in order to do that first; I had to taste the actual cuisine. Umut’s father has had restaurants for the past 50 years – some of the best oldest restaurants in Turkey. We would sit for lunch and there would be more than 40 dishes for tasting and believe me or not, I had put on more than 4 kgs in those few days! Keşkek is the national dish of Turkey – an UNESCO heritage dish where barley is cooked with lamb neck. It is delicious but looks very grey. But here, we cook the barley more like risotto and slow cook the lamb neck and use the shredded meat and serve it with a lamb shoulder on top. Also the Kuymak is a breakfast meal originating from Umut’s father’s village. It is more like a cheesy polenta with four different type of cheese but very stretchy. Again, to make this more restaurant style, we have put in wild mushrooms and truffle butter. Certain things blend and certain things don’t. I don’t do fusion and like Zuma and Qbara, what I have done here is use all traditional Turkish ingredients and elevate some of the traditional dishes and present it for a modern audience. I am not reinventing the wheel, neither is it Rocket science. These ideas have existed for thousand years, I have just twisted them and tweaked them, that’s all. For example, the Balik Ekmek on the menu. In Istanbul, you will find guys making fish sandwiches under the bridge. Here, we cure the mackerel, and the Turks in that area like the oily fish like mackerels and sardines. We do the bread so that it is more like Melba toast. Once the hamsi
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Travel images from Turkey: Colin Claque
season starts in Turkey we will introduce that in the menu as well (hamsi is a seasonal fish from the Black Sea). There was a bit of unrest in Turkey while you were there - does that bother you? Yes, I was there through the bomb explosions and the coup. But I don't feel any less safe in Turkey than when I am in elsewhere. I was lucky enough to have travelled up to the whole Mediterranean area. My great grandfather is actually buried in Çanakkale in the Marmara region - and it's absolutely pristine. We went up to Troy and other places. One has to really immerse in the culture to understand what the Turks are like, what better way to do that than travel, specially if you want to appreciate the cuisine. Team FoodeMag is going back to Rüya soon for a proper tasting. While the dessert menu developed by Liz is quite elaborate and looks stunning, much thought has been put into Rüya’s cocktails have been developed by an expert mixologist and revolves revolving around classic Turkish flavors and ingredients such as hibiscus, rose, pomegranate, honey, spices, citrus and mint. We can't wait!
Though Colin's Lens
Rüya is located in J1st Floor, Lobby Level, Grosvenor House Opening Hours: Sun – Sat 18:00 to 01:00 (Last order for restaurant is 23:30) For reservations: +971 4 3999 123 reservations@ruyadubai.com; info@ruyadubai.com
So, have you tried Rüya yet?
#DubaiDining
Scape...
a seven star daycation in Burj Al Arab with a private cabana no less! By Debbie Rogers
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Images: Debbie Rogers
It’s 9 am and we are crossing the bridge to Burj al Arab like two excited kids. We’re on our way for a Daycation with a difference, once that comes with a private air conditioned cabana next to the pool - and located in one of the exclsuive 7-star hotels in the world! Walking through the lobby, it’s hard not to stop and take pictures, and although we’ve visited this many times before but are still enthralled by the opulence surrounding us - it never fails to impress. Onwards and upwards, we make our way to the new terrace, simply called The Terrace, which has recently been added to the hotel. It’s hard not to be impressed, it’s huge! At ten thousand square metres and boasting two huge pools, large Jacuzzi’s, cabanas plus a new restaurant and beach area.
THE JOURNEY We are shown to our cabana, today we are enjoying the facilities of the Royal Cabana which comes complete with two terraces, a stocked mini bar (soft drinks), fruit basket, espresso coffee machine, Bang & Olufsen TV and Sound System, Two Large Couches and Two Private Terraces. To the rear we have views of Jumeirah Beach Hotel, to the front we have a large private terrace with a view of the infinity pool and easy access to pool and Jacuzzi. Both terraces come with sun loungers and our cabana comes with the full assistance of a butler too! As it’s a Royal Cabana we also have our own private bathroom stocked with toiletries, robes and slippers plus a gorgeous rain shower which we use intermittently throughout the day. The standard cabanas are smaller than the royal ones and come with a balcony which is either facing the rear or front of the cabana and no private bathroom. Our day is spent working our way around the cabana and terrace. We enjoy the rear terrace with coffee and fruit for breakfast and move our way towards the front terrace later. The pools are gorgeous, and chilled perfectly. Whilst there are quite a few people on the terrace, it’s not too busy as there is plenty of space. I absolutely loved the infinity pool and here’s where we spent most of the day, watching the world go by, lounging and catching the sun then taking a jacuzzi. It’s bliss and we don’t want to leave! Images: Debbie Rogers
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#DubaiDining
Burrata Caprese with heirloom tomatoes, quinoa, balsamic and pesto, which was refreshing and light. While the heirloom tomatoees.
THE FOOD At lunchtime, we make our way to the terrace of Scape, a new restaurant serving Californian fusion cuisine taking inspiration from Latin America, The Mediterranean and Asia. There’s a perfect breeze so we can sit outside for the first time this year. The dress code is summer chic, which is a little difficult to achieve having just left the pool, but a dress quickly pulled over wet swimmers hit the code. We’re spoilt for choice with the menu and it takes a while to decide what to order. We settle on two dishes from the Tapas menu, some gorgeous padron peppers with chorizo sauce and Edamame whilst we read the menu at leisure. For Starters we share a Burrata Caprese with heirloom tomatoes, quinoa, balsamic and pesto, which was refreshing and light. While the heirloom tomatoes were beautifully sweet, and the burrata creamy, I’ve had better, creamier burrata. However, the bread served was sublime, baked on site, light yet rich and indulgent - it was perfect. Moving onto the Mains, I chose King Crab Sliders with prawns and plantain crisps from the Tapas menu. The sliders were tasty and served on a black squid ink bun, the latter not mentioned in the menu. I would have preferred them without the cheese topping, which again wasn’t mentioned in the menu and didn’t add to the dish. The plantain chips were a first for me, and they were beautifully crisp. The sliders were perfectly cooked, moist and with a little chili kick inside which was good. I’m
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Images: Debbie Rogers
glad I ordered truffle fries as well as the yucca chips as both disappeared quickly! My guest ordered a whole lobster with fennel and sweetcorn salad, served sans shell. It was beautifully presented, tasty and juicy, but was slightly disappointing on its portion size. Three manly bites and it was gone – perhaps the waiter should have advised us to order some side dishes. We left the choice of dessert to the Chef and he sent out a Marscarpone Cheesecake, a Salted Caramel Sunday, a Broken Lemon Tart and a flourless Chocolate Cake with thyme ice cream. Although the cheesecake is something that I would not have ordered, but am so glad that the Chef sent it out. It was not only beautiful to look at, but it was also extremely delicate and light. For drinks, I had a chilled draught beer which hit the spot perfectly, whilst my guest asked for a mocktail with no sugar or syrup and the team whipped up a custom fruity drink that turned out to be a perfect thirst quencher without the associated sugar rush. Overall, the menu is a little more ‘fine dining’ than we had anticipated and perhaps we would have been better sticking to the Tapas Menu. Whilst the beach attire seemed to be allowed at the restaurant, contrary to the published dress code, we did feel a little underdressed given the location and menu. We would have liked to see a less formal menu for lunch particularly as all dishes can be served at your lounger which usually cries out for casual dining. This is a tricky balance to maintain considering the guests' differing expectations, given the hotel’s credentials.
Padron peppers with Chorizo sauce
King Crab Sliders with prawns and plantain crisps
FINAL THOUGHTS We leave reluctantly, half wanting to sneak back and stay over for an uber unique experience. Daycations are a perfect way of totally relaxing without a commute, flight or tiring journey. They always leave me feeling relaxed and calm. We loved our cabana - it was so lovely to be able to retreat from the heat into our own air conditioned space. This would be a perfect place to hang out with a few friends for a celebration or a special treat (alibi an expensive one), though we did feel torn sometimes between the pool, terrace or inside, wanting to experience and enjoy everything!
SUNSET BLISS After lunch, we casually sauntered back to our cabana, taking a nap in the shade! We also noticed how attentive our butler had been - the stocks of coffee had been replenished along with a jug of cold milk rather than those UHT little pots which I detest. We end our day by moving back to the infinity pool to enjoy the sunset. The sun set slowly behind us as we try and capture its orange hues. Sadly, sunset heralds the end of the day at the cabana, so we take one last leisurely shower before changing and vacating the property. I wish there was an option to convert the cabanas into private suites, as I for one, would have loved to stay over!
The Terrace in Burj Al Arab is now open for day visitors and in-house guests with 24 Cabanas (18 sq metres) and 8 Royal Cabanas (75 sq metres) on offer. Rates are between AED 2,500 – AED 3,000/per day or AED 3,750 – AED 4,500/day for the Royal Cabanas. In-house guests receive a 50% discount. Cabanas are available between 8.00 am and 6.00 pm. Tip : Watch out for the dress code for Scape particularly in the evenings www.scapedubai.com
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#FoodPreneurs
Kitchen Nation...
Dubai’s first Culinary Incubator By Debbie Rogers
Kitchen Nation brings together entrepreneurs, service providers, authorities, knowledge and experience with the aim of helping food startups get going. It is an environment that provides support to help get your idea to fruition and into the market place. Dubai is a buzzing metropolis with over 200 different nationalities. With so much heritage and culture carried over by the expatriate community, Dubai has untapped culinary potential in its residents, just waiting to be discovered. Kitchen Nation gives foodprenuers that extra nudge to take the first step into the culinary world. As the first culinary incubator in Dubai, Kitchen Nation aims to give any great culinary idea a chance to materialize and grow. The model works when the space is shared by different foodprenuers, giving each of them a chance to work in a professional environment accessing a fully equipped commercial kitchen, without having to start one of their own. Without the overheads and fixed costs associated with opening one’s own restaurant or shop, Kitchen Nation offers start-ups the chance to navigate the marketplace with minimal risks and small initial investments.
What or who is the inspiration behind your start-up? A dream of owning a small food truck. After the dream became a reality and we got our truck, we realized the additional costs that entails it (mainly having to rent a separate prep kitchen just to operate the food truck) will make it unattainable to other people. Being stern believers in the sharing economy, the idea developed organically until it became what it is today, a Kitchen Incubator that helps people in their crucial first steps of their culinary journey. Tell us why your business is the “best thing since sliced bread’ There is nothing more rewarding than helping other people make their dreams come true, is there? What is your favourite dish in the menu? Why? We’re not exactly a restaurant, so we don’t cook our own dishes. Yet our members come up with special things all the time, and its hard to mention them all. Last one that made an impression? A braised short-rib taco with Korean sesame vinaigrette and cilantro sour cream wrapped in a beet-infused tortilla. A new member that will reveal him or herself very soon Who is your hero in the restaurant business – the one that you aspire to be? Harry Snyder (founder of In-N-Out)– he broke all the rules yet created something much bigger than just a burger. When food becomes part of your identity, this is when you realize its more than just fuel for your body. What (lessons) have you learnt along the way that you would like to share with another foodpreneur? If you truly believe in an idea you’re going to have to fight for it... so take a deep breath and prepare to go the distance. Find them at Lakeshore tower, Cluster Y, JLT
#KitchenNation
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Tandem...
Travel, Eat, Share! The Tandem Food Truck offers a combination of good food, good vibes, and good times. Our menu is composed of different dishes from around the world, all freshly prepared, using both tasty and high quality ingredients. We are committed to providing the best service using the freshest and most locally sourced food possible. We believe you can taste the difference, and we guarantee the flavor! Our Food Truck is also the first and only environmentally friendly operated food truck within the UAE so not only do we provide you with delicious food, we are a part of the green community team! What or who is the inspiration behind your start-up? Owning a food truck has always been a dream of ours and with the help from a few friends, that dream has finally become reality. Tell us why your business is the “best thing since sliced bread The best thing about our business would be our menu, there’s something for everyone. Whether you’re looking for a delicious bite or something tasty and fulfilling on a budget, we’ve got it! What is your favourite dish in the menu? Why? Our BBQ Pulled Beef Sandwich because good things take time! Who is your hero in the restaurant business – the one that you aspire to be? We don’t have a hero in the restaurant business per say, however, we do have heroes in our lives. Our friends and family have constantly supported and kept us moving through this journey and thanks to them we hope to one day soon have the opportunity to expand our business. What (lessons) have you learnt along the way that you would like to share with another foodpreneur? Stay Positive! There will always be ups, downs, and challenges, but the most important thing is to stay positive and keep following your dream! www.tandemdxb.com
Find us at: Most of the time, you can find us in Dubai, during the week at various office locations, and on weekends at events. However, on special occasions such as public holidays, we travel towards other Emirates such as Ras Al Khaimah and Abu Dhabi. We always keep our social media pages updated with our locations so that people know where we are and where we are headed.
#DubaiDining
Afternoon Tea... for kids? Oh yes, and say, why not! By Ishita B Saha
THE AFTERNOON TEA AFFAIR While the lobby lounge can get really busy, the Al Samar Lounge is quite different - the terrace ovelooks the placid waters of the lake and as gondolas float by and the elaborate handcrafted wooden fans whir from the ceiling, you are already transported to a far away island. The iconic Burj Al Arab lurks in the background weaving a bit more grandeur. We made ourselves cozy in the plush sofas, and soon my girls were in for a royal treat. Following the welcome drinks, handcrafted trays filled with sweet and savoury treats reached our tables soon. Souk Madinat, you’ll find welcome refuge in the Al Samar Lounge. Non-alcoholic
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Images: Debbie Rogers
Here’s an afternoon tea not only with a fantastic location at (sunset over the azure Gulf waters of Jumeirah Mina A’Salam) but also with a special touch. Afternoon tea for kids at the Al Samar Lounge has been creatively crafted only for the little ones complete with macaroon burgers with cookie fries accompanied by vanilla, strawberry and mango syrups in ketchup, mayo and mustard bottles; push pops made into rainbow jam sandwiches and brioche cupcakes with whipped cream cheese potato chips and more. A real deal!
cocktails and traditional high teas for adults meet quirky deliciousness as treats for the little ones start pouring in. An indulgent afternoon tea followed by some lazy lounging in the terrace and watching the sun go down, listening to some live music... well, that has to be my ideal afternoon - whether on work days or holidays!
Jumeirah Mina A'Salam Afternoon Tea: AED 185 per person and Royal Afternoon Tea - AED 285 per person AED 100 for children and can be followed by turtle feeding on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Available from 2– 6pm For Reservations: +971 4 4323232
Coming Soon
DestinationDiaries
#Travel
A Tale of 2 Travellers... Taking a year out from the rat-race to explore the world, former Dubai journalists Lucy Taylor and Joe Mortimer chart the highs and lows of life on the road, and travelling as a couple. Buenos Aires, Peru, Costa Rica, Panama, Nicaragua,
Guatemala and, this time from Mexico!
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The famous church at San Juan Chamula
By Lucy Forbes Taylor
Mexico...
according to her
I’ve always dreamed of visiting Mexico, picturing a flamboyant riot of colours, flavours, sounds and smells to send the senses reeling. This was one of those rare instances where reality is even better than imagination.
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We arrived on the southern coast by boat from Belize, and hopped on a bus into the verdant interior. Our destination: San Cristóbal de las Casas. This small but perfectly formed colonial city is set in a valley surrounded by farm-dotted hills and coffee plantations, alive with colour and culture. In town, old and new have merged harmoniously: Mayan markets packed with bright textiles, precariously stacked vegetables and caged birds sit alongside soaring churches built by rich conquistadores; elegant modern restaurants and hot chocolate stores – serving locally grown beans – lie down cobbled streets paved by colonial settlers. There’s a history lesson on every corner, inevitably within reach of something tasty to eat. In need of just that after our long journey (travel lesson one: a hungry man is a grumpy man), Joe and I made our way into the centre of San Cristóbal’s largest market, a labyrinth
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Images: Lucy Taylor
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of canvas with a ramshackle central ‘food court’ catering to hungry hagglers. Amid make-shift kitchens and steaming pots, we sampled piping hot barbequed corn, crisp and salty chicatanas (the local delicacy of fried ants) and fresh, warm tortillas, accompanied by chicken in a smooth chilli mole (sauce). A food court meal never tasted so good. San Cristóbal is surrounded by dozens of traditional Tzotzil and Tzeltal communities, so after a few days in town we were keen to get out and visit the villages. Zinacantán, in the south, is renowned for farming flowers and making traditional textiles. Touring a local workshop, the friendly female weavers welcomed us with tea, tortillas and a demonstration of how they create the vividly striped cloth. Just over the brow of the next hill, but light-years from the bustling city of San Cristóbal in character, is
San Juan Chamula; a fiercely private Tzotzil community. Tourists taking photos of the locals, or snapping inside the settlement’s famous church, are liable to be thrown out of town. The church is certainly a sight to behold: it may be ostensibly Catholic, as per the orders of 16th Century invaders who aimed to convert the ‘heathen’ local tribes – but the Mayans quietly went ahead and integrated their own rituals anyway. Today, amid clouds of incense, families make offerings of posh (a sugar-cane liquor) to watchful wooden saints, while curanderos (medicine men) diagnose conditions and prescribe remedies including lighting candles, scattering flower petals or – in a dire situation – sacrificing a live rooster. Leaving the chickens and chanting of the gloomy interior, the pair of us stepped out into plaza, where decorations and food stalls were going up in preparation for a festival. Chomping down my first ever churro – a stick of sweetened, deep-fried dough – I decided I could get used to the Mexican diet! The colonial centre of San Cristobal de las Casas
The maze-like central market at San Cristobal Sampling my first churro
Weaving in Zinacantan
Cooking maize tortillas, in a Zinacantan household
Plaza outside Santon Domingo
Mexico...
according to him
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By Joe Mortimer
We’d only been in Oaxaca for a couple of hours when we heard the first explosion. After an overnight bus ride, we’d checked into the wonderful Casa Oaxaca boutique hotel and had brunch in the courtyard: eggs and refried beans for me; a local dish of chilaquiles (shredded fried tortilla) with aromatic chicken in mole negra sauce for her, accompanied by steaming mugs of Oaxacan coffee.
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Strolling around the neighbourhood, we sought out high ground from which to survey the town, and found ourselves on the rooftop terrace of a nearby bar, looking across to the chequered domes of the baroque Templo de Santo Domingo. Sipping on margaritas dusted with a mixture of chilli powder and crushed gusano worm, something whooshed into the air and exploded. Another followed soon after, and before long we could hear the clamour of an approaching crowd. As the noise came nearer, it turned into music: trumpets, tubas and crashing drums – the quintessential sound of Mexico. The
Enfrijoladas
women wore billowing stripped skirts, their hair in tight plaits; the men in white shirts and straw hats, firing off the occasional celebratory rocket. Approaching for a closer look we were sucked into the dancing crowd, and swept along with the procession. It was the first of nine major parades we counted that day; riotous affairs of musical troupes and accompanying revellers. Mexicans love a celebration: they celebrate life; they celebrate death; they celebrate because it’s better to sing, dance and make music than to mourn or weep for that which cannot be changed. Visually, the city is a celebration of architecture: elaborate churches and cathedrals built by the conquistadors who once conquered the country; austere monasteries with cool corridors and beautiful artwork, and resplendent palaces with elaborate balconies and colonnaded courtyards.
Delicious Sauce
But all that plays second fiddle to the city’s incredible cuisine. Over dinner with chef Alexandro Ruiz, we tasted delicacies like jicama, a root vegetable dusted with chilli powder and salt; enfrijoladas (crunchy rolled tortillas filled with black bean paste and topped with crumbly cheese) and the local speciality, mole negro; chicken in a rich and complex sauce of more than 20 ingredients including chocolate and chili as well as the “sacred leaf”, hoja santa. Around the main square, El Zocalo, street food vendors sell a galaxy of delectable eats: tlayudas (flat tortillas topped with refried beans and Oaxacan string cheese) tamales (refried beans and mole negra wrapped in banana leaf) and chiles rellenos (fat green poblano peppers stuffed with cheese and meat) to name but a few. Our week in Oaxaca was a riot of colour, flavour, music and celebration, leaving us with a certainty that this wouldn’t be our last visit to Mexico’s finest culinary hotspot.
Chef Alejandro Ruiz
So, which is their next destination? Images: Joe Mortimer
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#CulinaryTravel
Cambodian Coffee: a strong caffeine hit, both hot and cold! By Debbie Rogers
One of my top memories from my trip to Cambodia and Vietnam was enjoying sweet dark smooth coffee in various coffee shops. From five star hotel patisseries through to plastic street side seating, it was evident that coffee takes a significant place in people’s day-to-day lives and a coffee ritual is not one to be rushed. Most of the coffee in Cambodia actually comes from Vietnam although it is possible to drink Cambodian coffee too. Like all coffee, coffee in this region comes in different roasts and grinds with Coffee Lao Style being described as the king of coffee in terms of strength. It’s only for hard core coffee lovers - it is strong and served as a black coffee and it’s said that if it’s strong enough, your spoon should stand upright on it’s own - drink if you dare!
Don’t worry, most coffee isn’t this strong and slow roasting methods generally mean that Cambodian coffee is smooth and somewhat delicate compared to quicker darker roasts. The final thing that makes it different is that the beans are generally roasted with a coating of vanilla or cocoa powder and some sort of oil - it’s called butter oil but could be clarified butter or vegetable oil. This method of roasting helps to overcome the issue of roasting unripe beans, which is quite typical in the region as they take a long time to ripen fully. The main brewing method widely used in this area uses a simple metal filter called a ‘Phin’. The Phin is a small metal filter device, which sits on top of the cup and brews enough for one small cup of coffee. Typically, coffee brewed this way is brewed over a glass cup or mug so that you can see the process.
Images on this page: Debbie Rogers
Brewing with a Phin This is a slow method of brewing (typically 3-4 minutes of brewing time) which gives time for the water to drip through the ground coffee slowly and gather it’s taste along the way. Like most coffee brewing methods, you have to adjust it to your taste after some trial and error.
The Khmer Iced Coffee as a sundowner the popular restauarant Secret Garden in Otres.
But here’s a good starter for ten to get you going: 1. Firstly, warm your cup with some hot water 2. Place the Phin on top of your cup or glass 3. Add your coffee into the chamber and tap to level it out a bit - start with 1 rounded tablespoon and you can adjust this on future brews if you want it stronger 4. Place the insert (called a cup spanner) into the chamber on top of the coffee and turn it around a few times to level the coffee below it - don’t compress the coffee just level it out 5. Pour a few tablespoons of hot water into the chamber (water should be 185 to 195 degrees) 6. After 20 seconds or so fill the chamber to the top, place the lid on top of this and wait patiently whilst the coffee drips through - typically about 3 minutes depending on the size of the ground coffee 7. Remove the Phin For the finishing touches: Whether you order your coffee hot or iced, its brewed in the same manner as above. Some like it HOT - just add milk and/or sugar to your cup. And others like it COLD - pour the hot coffee over a glass full of cracked ice. In fact, the Khmer Iced Coffee or the 'toek doh koh toek gok' as is called locally – is more of a treat. And remember, if you are drinking this in true Cambodian style, stir in a good slug of condensed milk straight from the can! For a more dramatic Iced coffee without the whipped cream: First, pour some condensed milk into the bottom of your glass (don’t be stingy!), fill the glass with ice (chipped works better than cubes), and then pour over a good slug of strong Vietnamese coffee. Admire the layers and then stir the mixture thoroughly and sip slowly – or else, it will give you quite a sugar hit if you gulp down too quickly.
The Khmer Iced Coffee as a part of a breakfast meal served in a family restaurant outside the local market Phsar Leu Thom Thmey Market
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If Rainbow Milk can do the trick in the Kadak Chai in the Middle East, I am imagining that it could do the same to the Cambodian Cold Coffee! The Cambodian Coffee reminded me of the Iced Coffee that we were addicted in our college days and specially the kind served at the legendary Indian Coffee House in North Kolkata.
Yes, the brand matters! The ‘king of condensed milk’ in the region is a brand called My Boy. Our Editor Ishita and her family, after her recent trip to Cambodia, have come back swearing that it doesn’t taste the same when a different brand is used (do read what she has to say though - in quotes). Although, we couldn’t track down My Boy in Dubai but you can find other brands with equal levels of sugar in the grocery aisles.
Images on this page: Ishita B Saha
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#CulturalTravel #CulinaryTravel
Cambodia...
good old 'bargaining' days seem to be back for good! By Ishita B Saha
A visit to Siem Reap without a visit to a local fruit and vegetable market should be considered as blasphemous as visiting Ankor and not visiting it's popular temples! And Anantara’s Spice Spoons experience is designed for both in-house and outside guests, to give them a glimpse of the richness of Cambodian cuisine that begins with activities such as a guided tour of a local market, farm or rice field, a fishing trip, rice planting session or a visit to a traditional family home, followed by a tour of the resort’s herb and vegetable garden, highlighting a focus on using the freshest ingredients. Our Spice Spoons Experience started with a visit to the local market of Phsar Ler with Chef Narong riding the resort's humble tuk tuk, buying ingredients and learning about the traditional fruits and vegetables, followed by a family masterclass to prepare our lunch of rice paper spring rolls, sweet and sour prawn soup and a Khmer chicken curry.
Phsar Leu is the biggest market of Siem Reap
#SpiceSpoons
Chef Narong of Anantara Angkor prepares his loot basket full of fresh pastes and herbs!
KHMER CUISINE Khmer cuisine is an amalgamation of many regions and has been shaped by Cambodia's French colonial past or the long association with Chinese immigrants, as well as its neighbouring countries like Thailand or Vietnam. My personal observation was that the ingredients and flavours were very similar to Thai cuisine, however in Cambodian cuisine had more of a sweetness than the former. Again, the use of spice pastes and fresh herbs enhanced the flavours. Pickled vegetables, dips and sauces, fresh garnishes and condiments form a big part of the cuisine as much as staples such as rice or noodles, meat and fish. While Fish Amok seems to be the reigning national dish, its preparation differ across
Images: Ishita B Saha
kitchens. The other popular dishes are Nom Banh Chok or Khmer Noodles (there are different kind of noodles), stir fried rice dishes, sticky rice dishes, soups and broths, jellies, puddings and nd different types of pastries. The two thing sthat came back in our suitcases or have become a regular ficture in our kitchen back home are Twa Ko or the sweet Cambodian Sausages and the Khmer Omelette (a breakfast dish). Apart from traditional home cooking, street food is a big part of the eating culture and is frequented by singles and families from all ages - sipping into bowls of broth or slurping noodles while seated on simple plastic chairs or low wooden benches!
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One of the best way to immerse in the local culture is to adopt the traditional attire. What is your thought on this?
KHMER SPICES Turmeric, pepper, galangal, ginger, lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves are essential spices in Khmer cooking while star anise, Kampot pepper, pandan leaves lend their magic into distinctive dishes along with palm sugar and tamarind. Other popular ingredients are fried shallots, jicama root, fingerroot and coconut milk. The cooking doesn't require any complicated or modern techniques and is very simple, although time consuming as it requires a lot of prep in terms of chopping of vegetables, grinding spices and slow cooking of the broths. Phsar Leu Thom Thmey Market This is the biggest market of Siem Reap and is located on National Road 6. Open from sunrise until sunset, the market is bustling with vendors, shopper and diners queueing casual food kiosks called 'hang' or 'tiam'. We started off early at 6am with Chef Narong and by the time we reached the market, it already felt like we were late. Apart from the sellers selling noodles, dumplings or soups for breakfast, there were sellers who were selling fresh herbs - all chopped and ready to be cooked and freshly grounded spices conveniently packed in plastics. It was comforting to see that home cooking wasn't a dying culture here, and the system made it convenient to carry on with traditional cooking despite the lack the rush of the modern generation. Dried fish and meat, pickled fruits and vegetables, a variety of seaweeds and fresh herbs - and of course the strong aroma of lemongrass, all of these pervaded the air all at the same time. Speeding cyclists and motorcyclists weave seamlessly between the crowded stalls and the busy
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#CulturalTravel #CulinaryTravel #SpiceSpoons
A variety of vegetables are used in Khmer cuisine much like Chinese cuisine - either in stews and soups, as stir fried or fresh garnishes. The local markets are brimming with colour and variety and homogenised supermarkets are practically non-existent!
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Driving into the sunset at Wadi Rum and settling into a campfire
shoppers, amidst incessant honking and loud conversations. There seemed to be no clear demarcation between fruit and vegetable market withfish and meat products. Popular fruits like rambutans, dragonfruit, papayas, mangoes, mangosteens and longans pried through stalls selling bottles of pickled vegetables or a stack of caged hens. The best part is that Phsar Leu isn't the place for touristy souvenir hunting but is an authentic place where the local residents shop. English is spoken sparingly, and a help from a local guide can be helpful to steer away from haggling shopkeepers. In my case, I blindly followed Chef Narong. He
Steamed rice, different kinds of puddings, sweet balls, steamed noodle waiting to be dunked into light aromatic soups disrupt our shopping (and also others') and we make mini halts to dig into them. Refuelling!
whizzed past snaky bylanes and stubborn vendors to make sure that we picked up things according to our list. We picked up a variety of things - dried fish, turmeric and chilly pastes, fresh herbs, a special kind of pepper originating from the region of Kampot, noodles, steamed rice wrapped in banana leaves, coconut water and Cambodian sausages. After wrapping up our shopping, we made a halt at a family restaurant just outside the market where we had a sumptuous breakfast of bowls of 'kuyteav', a soup made with flat rice noodles followed by the very popular Khmer Iced Coffee.
Kroeung refers to spice/herb pastes that are used as the base flavors for many Khmer dishes. Ingredients are chopped and pounded and ground traditionally in mortar and pestle or in modern food processors. Once these pastes are kept ready, the actual cooking takes only a matter of minutes.
Dubai Coffee Museum has unique and interesting finds on coffees from all over the world, including Turkish Coffee
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#CulturalTravel #CulinaryTravel #SpiceSpoons
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A lot of ingredients go into making most of the main dishes in Cambodian cuisine - whether it's a soup or a fish Amok or a Khmer curry. But what sets it apart are the fresh flavours of herbs and spices, the intensity and sweetness of the coconut milk and the interplay of different textures.
A family which cooks together and eats together is most unlikely to fall apart. Atleast, food memories make everlasting impressions and a burst of selfie moments which when sewn together makes a delicious movie!
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Back in the Anantara Kitchen With the entire Anantara team backing us, we embarked on our lunch preparation. While the preparation of the soup and the Khmer Chicken Curry seemed like a cakewalk, the Rice Paper Rolls weren't as the rolling of the delicate Rice paper with stuffings inside seemed a bit of a challenge! Nevertheless, there seemed to be an elaborate spread on our lunch table the picture in the below left corner as the rightful evidence!
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Driving into the sunset at Wadi Rum and settling into a campfire
Breakfast at The Sothea - Khmer Omelette complemented by fresh Cambodian fruits and home made jams and compotes. The menu is inspired by the day’s fresh market produce with a contemporary interpretation of classic Khmer recipes.
Both Emirates Airlines fly to Siem Reap via Bangkok or Kuala Lampur and Thai Airways fly via Bangkok while Singapore Airlines fly via Singapore. The maximum flight duration is 11 hours.
For more information of special packages and offerings in Anantara Angkor, visit www.angkor.anantara.com Images: Ishita B Saha
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#DoingDubaiDifferently
An Urban Garden ... in the centre of Barsha Heights! By Debbie Rogers
It’s mid morning in early October and the FoodeMag team are moving outdoors for our weekly team meeting. We’ve come to the rooftop garden of Time Oak Hotel in Barsha Heights to meet with Laura Allais-Mare, the Founder and current leader of SLOW FOOD convivium in Dubai, which is a not-for-profit organisation. Laura is passionate about sharing knowledge and enabling people to become more responsible for the food they eat and where it comes from. Those of you who go to the Farmers Market on the Terrace will recognise Laura as she has a
SLOW food stand at the market which also includes regular seed swapping sessions.
The Urban Rooftop Garden The Urban Rooftop Garden is a first of its kind in the UAE. It is collaboration between Time Oak Hotel in Barsha Heights and is managed by a group of Slow Food Dubai volunteers. Walking around the garden, we’re surprised at just how much is growing already. There’s the buzz of bees surrounding some of the flowering plants, and we can hear the chirping of birds in the background. It’s hard to believe we are in the centre of quite a busy urban space. Gardening principles The garden is totally chemical free and plants are grown using garden techniques and philosophies based on Images: Debbie Rogers
Food Forest/Natural Farming Methods. Essentially this is about growing things as environmentally, sustainably and ethically as possible. As an added bonus Laura’s training as a Head Chef means that she uses herbs, vegetables that she grows at home in her kitchen too. What’s growing? It’s early in the season, but already there’s a variety of herbs growing vibrantly. Everything we saw in the garden has survived the hot summer and they included nine different types of basils, Cuban oregano, wild rocket, lemon grass, pineapple, sweet potato, a whole bed of aloe vera, common mint and chocolate mint, a huge pumpkin vine, avocado tree, brinjal/eggplant, pomegranate. All from
heirloom and/or organic seeds. All grown from seed. Apart from the Pineapple and sweet potato and aloe vera. These were propagated from cuttings/slips. Want to get involved? You’ll need to be a member of the Slow Food Dubai, attend training sessions plus commit to a minimum of one hour per month working in the garden. Kids can get involved too as long as their parents are registered. For more details, visit www.slowfooddubai.org/page/member.aspx
...#DoingDubaiDifferently continued
Slow Food Dubai
Go Slow in your life! 1. Buy whole ingredients. Cook them. Eat them. 2. Avoid processed stuff with long ingredient lists.Eat real food. 3. Grow some of your own food even if just on your window sill. 4. Whenever possible, know the story behind the food you buy. 5. Buy local food; find out what is in season! For more details about SLOW FOOD, visit www. slowfooddubai.org/ Want to grow your own produce? Check out the Balcony and Urban Gardening Group on Facebook where a growing community of home gardeners share their gardening experience, questions and knowledge. Laura set up the group four years ago and it’s growing in strength day by day with almost 5800 members currently. Images: Laura Allais-Mare
Slow Food is a worldwide movement which encourages everyone to slow down and use their senses to enjoy quality food with awareness, learning to choose good food that is produced in harmony with the environment and local cultures.
What to grow at home? Laura suggests keeping it simple and to start off with growing a few herbs. Ideal herbs would be basil, thyme and mint (there are quite a few varieties). There’s nothing more rewarding than cutting your own herbs and cooking with them or making herbal teas etc. Want something more substantial? Tomatoes & Peppers are easy to grown in pots or planters, as are some simple flowers such as Sunflowers or Nasturtiums. Where to Buy Your Equipment Check out the smaller independent nurseries, they are all around you if you care to look. Supermarkets usually have a small gardening section too, also there’s the Dubai Garden Centre and Ace Hardware. Or take a drive out to WARSAN, just past Dragon Mart. You can find everything you need there and you can bargain for price!
Some Tips • Remember, to buy some red sand, perlite, as well as compost, to mix in with your potting soil. • Water your plants regularly but don’t overwater them. Join the Facebook group: www.facebook.com/groups/ B.G.G.Dubai/
Laura Allais-Mare
The wheat terraces in RAK
Next Issue: December 2016 Dubai & The UAE in Winter For editorial enquiries, contact us at editor@foodemag.com For advertising and sales enquiries, contact mita@foodemag.com
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