Cover Pages_Winter21_Ed-final.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 12/8/21 6:43 AM Page 1
Cover Pages_Fall21_Ed-final.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 11/23/21 3:27 PM Page 2
Contents_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 11/30/21 6:14 AM Page 1
Contents_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 11/30/21 6:14 AM Page 2
Contents_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 11/30/21 6:14 AM Page 3
Contents_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 11/30/21 6:14 AM Page 4
WINTER 2021
PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MARTY ROSEN EXECUTIVE EDITOR RON MIKULAK WEB EDITOR ROGER BAYLOR PHOTOGRAPHERS DAN DRY ANDY HYSLOP HEATHER WIBBELS COLUMNISTS SARA HAVENS RON MIKULAK SUSAN REIGLER MARTY ROSEN HEATHER WIBBELS FEATURE WRITERS ROGER BAYLOR SUSAN REIGLER ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD GRAPHIC DESIGN & PRODUCTION ED ROTHER, ER GRAPHICS JOHN CARLOS WHITE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES KAREN SHANE
Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 502.509.EATS (3287)
www.foodanddine.com socialmedia@foodanddine.com facebook.com/foodanddine @FoodAndDining
For advertising information call 502.509.3287 (EATS)
Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. *Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.
ON THE COVER
Braised beef short rib from Fork & Barrel (page 16). Photo by Dan Dry. 4
Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
Contents_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 11/30/21 6:14 AM Page 5
contents WINTER 2021 | VOLUME 72
RESTAURANT GUIDE
38 | Dining Guide 74 | Maps
Our comprehensive listing of over 1,300 area restaurants, complete with reviews.
(RESTAURANT LOCATOR)
Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps — a unique resource you can’t find elsewhere.
FEATURES PROFILE | Be the Fork Restaurant Group | 16 Geoffrey and Emily Hyde ensure that every meal at their pair of Frankfort Avenue eateries is an event!
32 |
PROFILE | Against the Grain Restaurant Group With fearless iconoclastic glee, wry wit, and abundant swagger and strut the founders of ATG have revolutionized Louisville’s brew culture.
COLUMNS Starters
6| 10 |
COMINGS & GOINGS A summary of changes in the local restaurant scene — with openings, closings, changes and more.
THE LOCAL | Pho Ba Luu Tradition, technique, family recipes, and modern urban design come together in this exemplary celebration of Vietnamese street food.
Liquids BAR BELLE | Olive a good bloody Mary, don’t you? | 12 Even if you don’t care for tomatoes, the Bloody Mary is one of the world’s great cocktails — no matter the time of day. Here are some of the best!
14 | 26 |
BOURBON | Bourbon gift guide Whether you’re giving bourbon or bourbon-related gifts, our resident expert offers a generous selection of gift ideas for the season.
COCKTAIL CONTESSA | Decadent winter cocktails Whether your taste runs to the luxurious decadence of hot chocolate or the brisk zing of cranberries these seasonal cocktails will brighten your winter.
Food
22 | 28 |
EASY ENTERTAINING | Funky Fondue Party Call it a fad, but fondue has a timeless and timely appeal that’s a good match for where we are now.
COOKING WITH RON | Versatile winter squashes Sure they’re nutritious, but winter squashes also offer decadent delights. www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021
5
Comings & Goings_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/30/21 6:26 AM Page 6
starters | comings & goings
comings & goings
BY RON MIKULAK
The number of restaurant openings and closings that Food & Dining has collected this last quarter shows that some optimism may be returning to the beleaguered restaurant industry. In the final quarter of the year, the churn in the local restaurant scene seems to be returning to pre-pandemic levels. We note the opening of 29 new eating spots, 20 brand new to the local scene and nine more established businesses that have opened additional locations. On top of that, five long-shuttered restaurants have finally re-opened. These figures for new businesses are contrasted with 15 restaurants that have closed, and five more multiple location businesses that have closed one or more outlets. But of these 20 closings, five (representing 25%) of the sites have been quickly taken by new businesses — a remarkable turnaround, given the contingencies of the current economic situation. These current numbers are not far from the usual turnover in the industry that F&D has been reporting on for almost 20 years. We keep our fingers crossed that this beginning of a return (at least to stability in the restaurant world) will continue. As part of those hopes, F&D is tracking the progress of 28 additional new businesses that are not yet ready to list, but are moving ahead. We hope to be able to report on them in the Spring 2022 issue.
NEW TABLES
Three businesses are so confident in the potential of the local market that they're entering with two locations at once. Daddy Vick’s Soul Food (4444 Cane Run Rd.) in Pleasure Ridge Park and inside the Elks Lodge (426 Pearl St.) in New Albany is one of two local businesses in this trio of double openings. The other is The Peach Cobbler Factory (805 Blankenbaker Pkwy.) in Middletown, and opening soon downtown (801 W. Broadway), a dessert café specializing in fruit cobblers, with cinnamon twists and banana pudding also on the menu. The only out-of-town business to open two outlets is Omaha-based Scooter’s Coffee (4703 Dixie Hwy.) near Algonquin Park and (11506 Shelbyville Rd.) in Middletown. Current plans are to open more of the drive-through-only
coffee kiosks in Louisville neighborhoods currently not saturated with coffee shops. Two more coffee shops have joined this burgeoning market as well. The Coffee Boxx (1512 Portland Ave.) replaces McQuixote Books and Coffee in Portland, and Brew & Sip Coffee Bar (3800 Shepherdsville Rd.) opened in Buechel. Two bakeries have opened recently. Penny and Pearl’s Bake Shop, (106 Fairfax Ave.) which started as an on-line and delivery-only business, now has a physical presence, joining the mini-Restaurant Row just off Shelbyville Rd. in St. Matthews. The folks that operate FOKO — the eclectic breakfast and lunch spot in the Logan Street Market — are set to open La Pana Bakery (1001 Logan St.) inside the Market. Other new restaurants that have opened recently run the gamut from German beer hall to African/Liberian ethnic, from high-end Continued on page 8
6 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
Comings & Goings_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/30/21 6:26 AM Page 7
comings & goings | starters
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 7
Comings & Goings_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/30/21 6:26 AM Page 8
starters | comings & goings
tasting table to home-style seafood. Joe Phillips, the owner of the popular Pints & Union in New Albany, plans to open Common Haus (134 Spring St.) near the river in Jeffersonville before the end of this year, providing the beer, food and conviviality of a neighborhood beer hall along with expansive views of the river. Out in Norton Commons, Heirloom Chef's Table (9448 Norton Commons Blvd.) has only six seats for sampling Chef Ryan Smith's seasonal, locally-sourced multi-course upscale menus. Downtown, a gap in the lunchtime choices has been filled by Huge Impact Restaurant (566 S. Fifth St.), which takes over the long-time favorite Pesto’s location. Owner William McCathern, a Louisville native, operates a Huge Impact restaurant in Indianapolis, and decided his home town was the proper place for another version of his take on American food with a soul food twist. Across the river in Jeffersonville, those needing a grab-andgo breakfast or lunch can find a variety of options at Close Enough Café (250 Spring St.). You can get brunch there too, with mimosas and bloody Marys. Two new Mexican restaurants have opened, Mi Bonito Pinotepa (7200 Preston Hwy.), which focuses on Southern Mexican/Oaxacan cuisine opened in Okolona, and Felipe Mexican Restaurant (2400 Lime Kiln Ln.), an upmarket Glenview dining spot. Two new African restaurants have opened. In West Buechel, Wologisi Restaurant (3707 Klondike Ln.) re-creates the foods of Liberia — goat soup, jollof rice, palm butter and fufu — though it also lists familiar Mediterranean Middle Eastern dishes, such as hummus and falafel. In the Highlands, Afrokanza Lounge (1578 Bardstown Rd.) mixes Afro-Caribbean food and eclectic entertainment that can run into the early hours. Also, Al Sultan Mediterranean Grill (8129 Bardstown Rd.) has moved into the former Sea Fresh Seafood spot south of the Gene Snyder. And the opening of Captain Crab Seafood Boil and Bar (4112 Outer Loop) in Okolona indicates that the local explosion of Cajun-Creole seafood boils has not yet run its course, though here you can also find fried shrimp, catfish and oysters– and even chicken tenders–as well as concoct-your-own crab, crawfish and shrimp boils. Nine established restaurant businesses have opened additional locations. To emphasize the recent popularity of seafood boil spots, Pier 17 Cajun Seafood (5362 Dixie Hwy.) now has opened a second location in Pleasure Ridge Park. 8 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
Long-time restauranteur Ernesto Rivera — who owned and operated the now-closed Ernesto’s chain of local Mexican restaurants — has opened a third location of his new concept, I Love Tacos (3550 Springhurst Common Dr.), in Springhurst. His new venture has quickly gained popularity for its modern take on Mexican cuisine and its birria tacos have a near-cult following. Jeff's Donuts has opened a second shop, on the south side of the river (6401 Dutchmans Ln.). Mozza Pi (1020 E. Washington St.) is providing its unique wood-fired pizza from its traveling oven at Ten20 Craft Brewery in Butchertown. El Pastorcito (2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy.) has taken over the space that most recently was Mi Casita Parilla for its second location. Juno Japanese Restaurant (4110 Hampton Lake Way) now has a second location after taking over the longtime Shogun location in Hurstbourne. Several national brands have expanded their footprint in the Louisville Market. McAlister's Deli has opened an eleventh area location (9050 Dixie Hwy.), near Valley Station. Jersey Mike’s Submarines’ (3013 Poplar Level Rd.) seventh area location is now serving in Audubon Park and Chicken Salad Chick (12009 Shelbyville Rd.) has its second location in the market in Middletown. And finally, five restaurants that chose to remain closed for the last year or more have felt the time seems right to reopen. The downtown Bristol Bar & Grille (614 W. Main St.) is serving its artichoke fritters and green chili wontons again. Decca (802 E. Market St.) is open again in Nulu, but without its original chef, Annie Pettry. Across the river in New Albany, fans of Standard Plate & Pour’s (207 E. Main St.) jambalaya risotto and sorghum-braised pork cheeks are happy to see that it has re-opened. Perhaps most notably, two hotel restaurants that have sat out the recent troubles are serving guests again. At the downtown Brown Hotel, J. Graham’s Café and Bar (335 W. Broadway) is open again for breakfast and lunch. Neighborhood Services, the everyday restaurant at the Omni Hotel (400 S. Second St.), has re-opened downtown.
CLOSINGS
Among the lower number of restaurants that have closed, there are a few old-timers and a handful of popular newer businesses that couldn't hang on. Tony Impellizzeri has decided to end his four-decade career selling pizza, and has closed Tony Impellizzeri's (5170
Comings & Goings_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/30/21 6:26 AM Page 9
comings & goings | starters
Charlestown Rd.) in New Albany. Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen (4532 W. Broadway) has ended its long West End run, and Highland Coffee (1140 Bardstown Rd.) has brewed its last latte after 22 years in the Highlands. Jared Matthews, who operates Equus and Lou Lou Food + Drink, has chosen to consolidate his St. Matthews dining empire by closing Diamond Street Grub & Hops (3920 Shelbyville Rd.). Norton Commons has lost one of its dining options with the closing of 502 Bar and Bistro (10401 Meetings St). After less than a year, Hog Father Pizza (1301 Story Ave.) has called it quits in Butchertown, its owner Andy Blieden citing continuing difficulties in staffing and other Covid-related problems. And downtown, Hotel Distil has decided to re-purpose its restaurant Bitters End (101 West Main St.) as an event space. Fan-favorite Alwatan Restaurant (3713 Klondike Ln.) has been replaced in West Buechel. And in Portland, McQuixote Books and Coffee (1512 Portland Ave.) has been replaced by The Coffee Boxx. No Bake Cookie Dough (805 Blankenbaker Pkwy.), a niche
dessert purveyor in Middletown, lasted longer than many anticipated. Tacolicious To Go (111 W. Market St.) decided not to renew the lease on its New Albany building, citing a need of extensive repairs, and is looking for a new space. Other restaurants that have recently closed include Wei Wei Chinese Express (526 S. Fifth St.) downtown, Sea Fresh Seafood (8129 Bardstown Rd.) south of Gene Snyder, The Simple Greek (3029 Poplar Level Rd.) in Audubon Park and The Funky Waffle Co. (1410 Charlestown-New Albany Rd.) in Jeffersonville. Shogun Japanese Steak House (4110 Hampton Lake Way) has closed, after a long tenure. One of the first Japanese-style steakhouses in Louisville, Shogun still has one area location. After a relatively brief trial expansion, Hammerheads (2222 Dundee Rd.) has closed its Highlands location, leaving its original site on Swan Street in Germantown still serving. Come summer, fans of Steel City Pops’ intensely-flavored frozen treats will be bereft. A sudden corporate decision at the Birmingham, Alabama-based business abruptly closed all three local outlets at once (6301 Moonseed St., 117 St. Matthews Ave., and 1021 Bardstown Rd.). F&D
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 9
The Local_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 11/30/21 6:33 AM Page 10
starters | the local
BY MARTY ROSEN | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY
The Local Our new column, The Local, celebrates the places that make Louisville Metro feel like home, whether old or new, traditional or innovative.
Jessica Mach and her partner Stewart Davis have operated a Butchertown restaurant specializing in “Saigon Street Food,” for five years. And since 2017 she’s been fixing pho as her mother taught her. These days Mach puts a hundred pounds of beef bones in a sixty gallon kettle and simmers it for three days. Her chicken pho goes a bit faster: a mere two days. And her delicatelyflavored gluten-free vegetarian version is made daily, and in smaller batches. There’s no mixing and matching of broths in her kitchen, says Mach. She wants each broth to have its own distinctive flavor profile. 10 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
Mach says that when people talk about chicken noodle soup they are talking about comfort, and home, and the kitchens where their mothers or grandmothers cooked for them. Her pho, she says is the same thing. “It’s very much home cooking.” Then she chuckles and adds, “Just in bigger batches, because my mother didn’t have a sixty-gallon kettle in the kitchen.” There are no secrets to preparing Vietnamese cuisine, says Mach, a Saigon native who came to Louisville via Houston. “Every family may have their own little twists and turns, like some people take the freeway and some people like the backroads, but it’s a traditional way of cooking. In Vietnam when we talk about pho we talk about comfort. It’s a food we can eat all day long. Sometimes we wake up and say, ‘What’s for breakfast?’ and we can go, ‘Oh, it’s pho!’” The shimmering grace and clarity of Mach’s broths are in large measure a tribute to her mother’s traditional ways in the kitchen, and her advice and guidance when Mach was developing the menu. Her mother’s name was Luu, and translated into English the restaurant’s name is Mrs. Luu’s Noodle Soup (Mrs. Luu passed away three years ago). Mach completes her soups with ingredients gently poached in the broths — brisket, chicken, or vegetables, then served piping hot with bright green scallions and a packet stuffed with fresh herbs and jalapenos that, once added to the bowl will gradually ramp up the flavor until your spoon can barely keep up.
The Local_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 11/30/21 6:33 AM Page 11
the local | starters
Pho Ba Luu Chef/Owner Jessica Mach
And of course there are also the rice noodles from which pho derives its name. Among all the many varieties of noodles, western or Asian, rice noodles occupy a culinary space of their own. Says Mach, “They fill you up. They are just so fulfilling but so light and pleasant.” Light and pleasant is also a fine description for the physical space at Pho Ba Luu. From the beginning, Stewart Davis envisioned a place that would be as efficient for customers as a street cart, but with a modern, energetic feel that would satisfy both people seeking a quick meal and those wanting to linger over coffee or a cocktail, or gather with friends on the outdoor patio. In the years since it opened, Davis and Mach’s vision for the space, menu, and mission have proven to be perfectly aligned. Leaving aside the impact of the pandemic, for many visitors Pho Ba Luu has become not just a quick stop for sustenance but a place to meet and linger. That’s a measure of both the design and Mach and Davis’s research when they decided to relocate from Houston to Louisville to start a business. For them, the potential of the emergent potential of Butchertown was
appealing. But so was the fact that Vietnamese cuisine — a major aspect of Houston’s restaurant scene — was already well established in Louisville thanks to places like Vietnam Kitchen. These days, F&D readers will find 10 Vietnamese restaurants in our listings. We’ve come a long way from the days when Café Mimosa offered a separate Vietnamese menu to adventurous diners. And in the 90s, Vietnamese food came front and center when Kim and Alex Lam turned Vietnam Kitchen into one of the city’s true destination restaurants – a place so well-known that fans refer to dishes not by name but by menu number: K6, anyone? For Mach, the decision to focus on Vietnamese cuisine was not just a passion, but an opportunity. “It gave us confidence to know that Vietnam Kitchen had already been here a long time, and they were pioneers in bringing Vietnamese food here. And this was far enough away that we would not interfere with each other’s business.” And every item on Mach’s menu is designed, as she puts it, “to explode in your mouth.” Again, there are no secrets to her menu. Everything is made from scratch – that includes soy sauce, fish sauce, a luxurious yellow curry, assorted rice bowls, a fine collection of Asian cabbage salads, scrumptious banh mi sandwiches, cool spring rolls, bourbon-inflected sriracha-sauced wings, and exquisite crispy rolls constructed with lump crabmeat, shrimp, pork, potatoes – and Mach’s own house-made oyster sauce. “I like really bold tastes,” says Mach. F&D •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
Pho Ba Luu 1019 E Main St. 502.384.6822 www.phobaluu.com
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021
11
Bar Belle_Winter21_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/30/21 6:38 AM Page 12
liquids | the bar belle
Belle B elle
The
Bar
Olive a good Bloody Mary, don’t you? BY SARA HAVENS AKA THE BAR BELLE
I’m not a fan of tomatoes — they’re mushy, gushy and have the horrifying texture of a sun blister — but I do like tomato juice, especially when there’s vodka in it and maybe a few olives.
I
That’s right, today I’m shining the spotlight on the Bloody Mary, a triedand-true cocktail that’ll pick you up and dry you off if you’ve been, um, rode hard and put away wet, as they say in horse racing. History is uncertain as to who actually invented the drink, but many people who research these things believe it came about in the 1930s, just as America was coming out of its 13-year hangover known as Prohibition. Makes sense to me. But do you know what doesn’t make sense? Why do we love the Mary so much — myself included — when we’re 30,000 feet in the sky? There’s nothing better than a Bloody Mary on a plane, except maybe two Bloody Marys on a plane. Am I right? I remember the first time I ordered one, too. I was traveling from Louisville to New Orleans, not long after graduating college and relocating to the River City. I was on my way to Mardi Gras, and when the flight attendant asked me what I wanted to drink, I blurted out “Bloody Mary” without a moment’s hesitation. Mind you, I had never had the drink at this point, nor did I think I even liked tomato juice. But the thought of a thick concoction laced with salt, pepper and other spices felt really nice. And it was. After that trip, I never flew anywhere without one or two in hand. Sometimes I’d smuggle in my own vodka, and sometimes I’d make friends with the attendants in charge of booze distribution. Unfortunately, due to Covid and the unruly Karens of the world, we can no longer have nice things, and most airlines have stopped serving alcohol on flights. And with alcohol being banned, they felt there was no longer a need to offer Bloody Mary mix — or even just plain-Jane tomato juice. I truly hope this changes, but the last time I flew, I was 12 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
given four options: coffee, water, Coke or Diet Coke. Sad. But I digress. Let’s get back to the cocktail, shall we? I love the Bloody Mary because of its simplicity, but also because of all the garnishes that can be added. It’s like the Qdoba of cocktails. I’ve seen the classics — celery, green olives, lemon wedge, pickle — to the absurd — chicken wings, cheeseburgers, bacon. Nobody is calling bacon absurd here, let me get that straight. It’s just different, but I like different. I thought I had seen it all until I visited the wonderfully sinful city of Milwaukee. If it weren’t for the frigid winters, I may very well have a second home there. Picture this: Cheese on every corner, cheap drinks inside every corner bar, and bartenders who have cornered the market when it comes to Bloody Marys. Every time you order a Bloody Mary anywhere in that city, you not only get cheese, glorious cheese, as a garnish, but you get a little sidecar of beer — for free! Tomato juice and beer actually go great together, and receiving a free beer without ordering it really made my day. Plus, they usually give you these cute mini-bottles of Miller High Life — as we were in the land of Miller — which made it even more badass. If we can get the “free beer with Bloody Mary” thing going here in Louisville, I’d be all for that. Let me know how I can help.
Louisville’s Best Bloodys
Recently I put a call out on social media asking Louisvillians for their favorite places to imbibe a Bloody Mary. Of course I have my favorites, but I wanted to be sure I wasn’t missing something. Because, as we know, the older you get, the more likely you’re not leaving your zip code unless you need something at Trader Joe’s. Some of these places make their Bloody Mary mix from scratch, and kudos to them! Others use a store-bought product, like Zing Zang (my favorite), and add to it their own secret sauce and/or garnishes. Let’s take a look at some of the favorites …
Outlook Inn • This esteemed Highlands bar is known for its awardwinning Bloody, and there’s a reason for that: It’s delicious, and it’s a secret recipe. The thought of it makes my mouth water. The Back Door • I bet you saw this coming. The Back Door makes a great Bloody, complete with a dill pickle and lots of vodka. You might want to ask for a side of mix to go with your vodka.
Bar Belle_Winter21_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/30/21 6:38 AM Page 13
the bar belle | liquids The Merryweather • This was a popular one on the Facebook suggestions, so I stopped by recently to check it out for myself. They like to add in all kinds of garnish treats, so I felt like it was both a drink and a meal. Bravo!
ShopBar • Of course ShopBar is going to make a decent Bloody Mary — it’s what they do! They also like to pack theirs full of garnishes, and I don’t hate it. Sometimes they’ll even add … wait for it … cheese!
Noosh Nosh • Who ordered bacon with their Bloody? The real question is: Who didn’t? Noosh Nosh puts in a whole lotta stuff to nosh on, including bacon, olives, pickles and lime. Bring it on.
CC’s Low Carb Kitchen • CC’s not only has several Bloody Mary options on their brunch menu, but it also is home to one of the biggest in town. The Big Ass Bloody is 2 feet tall and includes wings, sausage, shrimp, cheese and a whole lot more. I’ve gotta check this out for myself. Momma’s Mustard, Pickles & BBQ • While I haven’t confirmed this with my own eyes, a Facebook friend said the Bloodys here include mustard, pickles, dry rub and a smoked chicken wing!
Oskar’s Slider Bar • Oskar's calls their Bloody the “Mary Had a Little Lamb,” and it includes smoked lamb fat washed with something called Taffel. Also, you can get a sausage stick and stuffed olives for $1 more. The Blind Squirrel • One of the few to bring back the beloved
Bloody Mary Bar since the pandemic shut down the fun, The Blind Squirrel lets you build your own every Sunday from 11am - 3pm.
Against the Grain Brewery & Smokehouse • Naturally a smokehouse will most likely make a great Bloody Mary, because they’ve got all the prime ingredients at their fingertips. This one often comes with some smoked meats, so let’s call it a meal in a glass and be done with it.
Cultured Cheese & Charcuterie Bar • Cultured is all about the cheese, so when you order a Bloody here, that’s what you’re gonna get! And I have no problem with that.
Morning Fork • Breakfast places are also a great place to score a solid Mary, and Morning Fork has a tasty one. Along with house-made mix, vodka and various garnishes, the gracious bartenders line the rim with bacon and salt.
This list isn’t meant to be exclusive, as I’m sure I missed many of your favorites. Just about every bar and restaurant in town can doctor up their own version of the classic Bloody Mary, and it makes for a fun morning/afternoon to stop by a new place and see how creative they get with garnishes, ingredients and, hell, even the base spirit. A bourbonbased Bloody Mary (often called Bloody Belle) is quite a treat, especially here in Bourbon Country. So instead of complaining that I missed one here, make your own list and share on social media. And be sure to tag me (@TheBarBelle) so I can try something new! F&D
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 13
Spirits_Bourbon_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/30/21 6:51 AM Page 14
liquids | bourbon
Gifts for Bourbon Lovers
What to Give When You Can’t Find That Elusive Bottle of Pappy BY SUSAN REIGLER
f you live in Louisville, the odds are better than even that at least one or two names on your holiday shopping list belong to selfdescribed bourbon enthusiasts. Sure, it would be great to find one of those rare, bragging rights bottles such as Pappy Van Winkle or William LaRue Weller, but that’s not going to happen. (Well, you might find one on the secondary market, but the price will be exorbitant.) If you still would like to give a bottle, a true enthusiast will be very pleased with a barrel proof offering, such as Maker’s Mark Cask Strength, Four Roses Small Batch Select (and any of the barrel proof Four Roses Single Barrel Private Selections), or Wild Turkey Rare Breed. All are obtainable at local retailers and range from about $45 to $65. There are also plenty of non-bottle gifts that will be appreciated. Note: Distillery gift shops can be great places to find everything from branded shirts and caps to glasses and cocktail making accessories.
I
Whiskey Tasting Glass
Glassware breaks, so new glasses are always welcome. The Glencairn tasting glass, developed in Scotland for nosing and sampling Scotch is widely used in America, too. The manufacturer’s web site, www.glencairnwhiskyglass.com, sells individual glasses starting at $9, but also has gift sets, glasses in cut crystal, and other variations. Glasses can be etched with monograms and logos, too. For the whiskey drinker on the go, there’s a Glencairn Whisky Travel Case ($49) in leatherette that includes two standard glasses.
Clear Ice Mold
A word here about whiskey stones. Don’t. These are the metal cubes designed to put in the freezer and then use to “chill your whiskey without diluting it.” That means you are deadening the taste without any of the melting of ice that will help release and amplify flavor notes. A single large cube in a rocks glass melts slowly, so the whiskey will not become too cold and water is added gradually. Clear ice looks great and there are expensive machines you can buy to make it. But there’s an inexpensive option, too. The Eparé Clear Big Ice Cube Maker ($39.95 at Amazon) makes four big two-inch cubes at a time. It’s a silicon mold that freezes water slowly resulting in crystal clarity. Remove after they’ve solidified and store in freezer bags until time to use. 14 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
Bourbon Women Membership
Disclosure: I serve on the board of the Bourbon Women Association’s Educational Foundation. And I can highly recommend a gift membership, ($50 a year) for that bourbon-loving mom, wife, sister, or best female friend. There are live and virtual events throughout the year including behind-the-scenes tours, private barrel selections, special tastings, and many opportunities to mingle with bourbon industry celebrities. The annual SipOsium conference in Louisville in August attracts about 400 women from across the U.S. Details and memberships, www.bourbonwomen.org.
Bourbon Steward Training
Moonshine University (Yes, it’s real.) at the Distilled Spirits Epicenter, 801 South 7th Street, offers courses in bourbon, which include history, explanation of the whiskey making process, and sensory training. The course culminates in a test after which participants can be certified as Bourbon Stewards or Executive Bourbon Stewards by the Stave & Thief Society. Textbook and sensory evaluation kits are included in the $500 fee. Tee shirts, caps, and hoodies with the school logo are extra. For details, go to www.staveandthief.com.
Books
When I started writing about bourbon more than a quarter century ago there was only a handful of books about bourbon, including Gerald Carson’s classic The Social History of Bourbon, first published in 1963. (Available as a reprint from University Press of Kentucky, $19.95) Coinciding with the renewed interest in bourbon, there’s now not just a shelf, but a very large bookcase of bourbon titles. (Yes, yet another disclosure: I’ve authored or coauthored half a dozen myself.) Two publishers that specialize in bourbon are (not surprisingly), the University Press of Kentucky, www.kentuckypress.com, and Cider Mill Press, www.cidermillpress.com. Just type “bourbon” into either website’s search window and the relevant titles will pop up. Prices start at $16.95 and climb from there. Perhaps the ultimate book for a bourbon enthusiast has just been published. New York Times reporter Clay Risen has written a couple of notable whiskey volumes, including American
Spirits_Bourbon_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/30/21 6:51 AM Page 15
bourbon | liquids Whiskey Bourbon and Rye: A Guide to the Nation’s Favorite Spirit (Sterling Epicure, $24.95). His new title, Bourbon: The Story of Kentucky Whiskey (Ten Speed Press, $100) is a boxed set behemoth with a large, lavishly photographed book and a collection of
reproduced documents important to the history of bourbon.
Magazine Subscriptions
Your bourbon enthusiast can keep up with the latest news, read profiles of distillers and others in the industry, and browse tasting notes in publications specifically about bourbon and other American whiskeys. The big four are American Whiskey Magazine ($19.95/year, americanwhiskeymag.com), Bourbon+ ($30/year, bourbonplus.com), The Bourbon Review ($16/year, www.gobourbon.com), and Whisky Advocate ($22/year, www.whiskyadvocate.com). Each is published quarterly, though American Whiskey is planning to publish
six times a year starting in 2022. Another disclosure: I am a contributing writer to American Whiskey and Bourbon+.
Stocking Stuffers
Again, you don’t have to spend a lot to please your bourbon drinker. Consider any of the delicious spices and condiments from Bourbon Barrel Foods, which can be ordered online, www.bourbonbarrelfoods.com, or purchased at the company’s shop on Frankfort Avenue. Choose from micro brewed soy sauce aged in bourbon barrels, spices smoked over barrel staves, jams, snacks, and cocktail mixers including a range of bitters. Prices start at $10 and there are several gift sets. For more edibles, get a box of chocolate bourbon truffles from Art Eatables, www.arteatables.com, which has retail shops on Fourth Street by the Louisville Palace and West Main next to the Frazier Museum. Chocolate is matched to the whiskey brand used in each truffle. (Collections $10 to $42). Finally, check out the Bourbon Cousins, www.bourboncousins.com, for bourbonthemed wearable accessories, such as silk neck ties and bow ties ($60-$70), socks ($18), and pocket squares ($30). They also carry bar towels ($22) and note cards, ($17.95). F&D
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 15
Fork & Barrel_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 11/30/21 7:06 AM Page 16
profile | fork
&
barrel • morning fork
BetheFORK BY SUSAN REIGLER | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY
Fork & Barrel 502.907.3675 2244 Frankfort Ave. bethefork.com
Geoffrey and Emily Heyde Have Breakfast, L
Sometimes an unfilled niche isn’t apparent until it eventually becomes occupied. What was the Louisville restaurant scene missing that it now has? Themed brunches, of course. At least that’s how Emily Heyde saw things before she and her husband, Chef Geoffrey Heyde, opened Morning Fork, their
Morning Fork 502.830.9500 1722 Frankfort Ave. morningforklouisville.com
16 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
breakfast and lunch spot on Frankfort Avenue. Said Emily, “I remembered going to the New Year’s Day pajama party at Lynn’s Paradise Café. I had full on stylish pajamas with my robe as a coat.”
Fork & Barrel_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 11/30/21 7:06 AM Page 17
fork
&
barrel • morning fork | profile
, Lunch and Dinner Covered at Their Pair of Frankfort Avenue Eateries
Emily and Geoffrey Heyde
Now, as the events manager at both Morning Fork and the couple’s other restaurant, Fork & Barrel (also on Frankfort Ave.), Emily has branched out from the New Year’s Day brunch (which does indeed occur annually) and hosts several themed brunches a year including a Halloween brunch, a Wizarding brunch, and one inspired by the television series The Office during National Bosses Week. For the brunch weekend near Christmas, Santa or Mrs. Claus makes an appearance. Morning Fork’s brunch customers are encouraged to wear appropriate costumes, which may sound as though that adds a layer of complexity to the meal. But the response has been overwhelmingly positive. The combined number of customers for the Friday, Saturday, and Sunday brunches can be around 900. Perhaps that’s because Geoffrey Heyde’s menu philosophy is anything but complicated. “We use good, wholesome ingredients and have good, wholesome cooking. We’re not doing anything weird or outside of the box crazy. We’re not doing sweetbreads, but we’ll do oysters.” A quick look at Morning Fork’s menu reveals classics and basics. The Country Breakfast consists of two eggs (your way), selection of breakfast meats, and a choice of breakfast bread. Other dishes include corned beef hash, a short rib (and a traditional) Benedict, avocado toast, and a veggie breakfast burrito that can be adapted for carnivores with optional chorizo, chicken sausage, or bacon. Pancakes, French toast, and oatmeal are other favorite offerings. If you crave sugar alongside your morning caffeine, try a sweet crepe (filled with Nutella, strawberries, and bananas) or one of the jumbo house-made cinnamon buns. The lunch menu includes entrees such as fettuccine Alfredo, a Hot Brown, and a selection of soups, salads, and sandwiches.
Salmon serves double duty – smoked for breakfast and as a sandwich at lunch. Even with no “outside of the box crazy” items, Heyde bears in mind that he will have people come in who have some type of dietary restriction. “We have vegans who come in. We have folks who are gluten free and it’s amazing how many gluten free [there are]. We hope people appreciate that we always do our best to accommodate any dietary restriction, but we always recommend that they let us know in advance when they make their reservation.” The couple made a few cosmetic changes to the interior. They redid the bar, putting in an inlay of black walnut at the corners and black walnut trim around the front. The floors were sanded and refinished. The ceiling had been painted black. They painted it white, which made the exposed wooden beams pop. Two televisions mounded on the wall behind the bar were different sizes. They replaced them with one, much larger-screened, TV. Heyde had extensive experience in restaurants before he and his wife opened Fork & Barrel in 2017. As he describes it, he was always in the kitchen as a teenager. “I loved to cook at home. I was pretty decent at it and thought maybe I could make a career of this. After all, motorcycle racing wasn’t in the cards. Too expensive and too dangerous!” His family had moved to Louisville when he was in high school and when he graduated, he decided to head to New York to enroll at the Culinary Institute of America. When he completed his training in 2000, he came back to Louisville and went to work under James Beard Award-nominated chef Jim Gerhardt at the Seelbach Hotel’s Oakroom, where he’d had an internship while still in high school. Other establishments where Heyde gained experience included The Veranda, the Derby Café, Masterson’s, and Lake
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 17
Fork & Barrel_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 11/30/21 7:06 AM Page 18
Forest Country Club. He and Emily met when they were both working at Clements Catering. She had graduated from Miami of Ohio and then enrolled in the catering program at Sullivan University. Heyde also moved to Kansas City for a couple of years when the Cordish Company, which developed Louisville’s Fourth Street Live, was developing the Power & Light District in Kansas City, and he helped start two restaurants, but he missed Louisville and moved back. Before the move, he had worked as a personal chef for Kevin Grangier and they reconnected when Heyde returned. “Kevin and I had talked about opening a restaurant and one night after an event he said, ‘Let's go, grab a drink.’ And I said, where do you want to go?” They realized that the kind of place they wanted to go, a comfortable bar with good food and a slightly upscale atmosphere, didn’t seem to exist and Grangier suggested opening a bar in Anchorage. “The bar turned into a full blown bar restaurant with two bars,” explained Heyde. That was the Village Anchor & Pub, which opened in 2010. He cooked there for a few years before moving on to some other kitchens but was always thinking about opening his own restaurant. “I went to Owl Creek Country Club for about six months. It was a different challenge all in itself. Four hundred bosses. When you work for a country club, every member is your boss, right? Then I helped open a place on Theatre Square downtown. It was an experience, but short lived. Then I said to Emily, let's do something ourselves. And it turned out that Michael Ton called me one day.” Ton, who with his brother owned Basa, a Vietnamese restaurant on Frankfort Avenue, had decided to move to Florida when his wife got a new job there. Given the chef-driven nature of Basa, the owners decided to close it, but they hoped to find someone to open another eatery at the location. Ton had called Heyde to find out (top) Fork & Barrel’s main dining room. (center, left) House mussels with Chef’s rotating selection of broths, served with a baguette. (center, right) An updated classic, beef tenderloin stroganoff. (left) Fork & Barrel’s intimate bar. 18
Fork & Barrel_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 11/30/21 7:06 AM Page 19
fork
&
barrel • morning fork | profile
if he might be interested in starting a restaurant. Heyde was. “I was driving to Kansas City to help one of my old bosses out with an event, a fiftieth birthday party for somebody, and on my way back, I called Michael and I said yes, that I was really interested in that space. Let's take a look at it.” Ton told him that he had three or four other people that were interested, too. But Heyde was insistent. The more he thought about it, the more appealing the idea of having a place on Frankfort Avenue’s Restaurant Row. They met with Ton’s aunt, Coco Tran, who owns the building (and whose own long history as a restaurateur spans decades and includes storied restaurants like Café Mimosa, Zen Garden, Heart and Soy, and Roots), and decided to open Fork & Barrel. “We took it over in January of 2017,” said Heyde. “We opened that April, and have been going strong ever since.” Heyde describes his Fork & Barrel menu as “Southern comfort food with a twist.” “Typically, we keep a lot of our proteins the same even throughout the year. But the compliments we usually change. We have folks that ask, why in the world do I serve Stroganoff when it’s ninety five degrees outside? But people don’t stop ordering it. On the other hand, we take certain things off the menu and we get chastised for it for weeks.” Heyde apologizes to the disappointed customers, “I'm sorry, we had to change something. But the opposite is a dish that we started this off as a special and then it got put on the menu because it was so popular. There's nothing wrong with giving people generally what they're looking for.” With people being isolated at home during the pandemic and many trying to juggle work and childcare, not to mention virtual school, Heyde saw Fork & Barrel as helping to meet a dining need. Curbside service was brisk. “We try to do it at a skill level that you may not be able to do at home or have the time to when some people are working from home and having Zoom meetings, It's not like you can just close the office door now at five and go home Three Fork & Barrel dishes: (top) Pork Belly with whipped sweet potato, apple maple gastrique and a pecan crumble. (center) Grilled salmon with sautéed spinach, blistered tomatoes and roasted pearl onions with pesto. (right) Fork & Barrels’ signature grilled pork chop with braised kale with a brandy cider glaze. 19
Fork & Barrel_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 11/30/21 7:06 AM Page 20
profile | fork
&
barrel • morning fork
and relax and cook. You know, that was a strange change during this last couple of years.” The aforementioned Stroganoff is among the restaurant’s best sellers. The seasonally changing salmon entrée is high on the popularity list, as well. Heyde doesn’t want to have such an extensive menu that diners will be exhausted by the number of choices. On the other hand, he wants each dish to be delicious enough that it may be difficult to decide between favorites. “So that way, if you're in the mood for fish tonight, choose salmon or shrimp and grits. And then next week you want beef, so get the short ribs or the Stroganoff or the grilled filet. The pork chop is very popular, too.” Depending upon your appetite, Fork & Barrel also has the kind of menu where you can just order a couple of appetizers and cocktail or a glass of wine. Or an appetizer and salad. The small plates include sharables such as a Southern charcuterie board (house-made pimento cheese, Exum’s country ham, pate, and pickle vegetables); mussels with a changing chef’s section of broth; bruschetta with mushrooms, roasted peppers, and goat cheese; pork belly and a beet salad. In the same spirit of accommodation for special diets as practiced at Morning Fork, there’s a vegetarian ravioli entrée. No doubt with the bounty of sides — sweet potato puree, cauliflower risotto, carrots, seasonal mushrooms, and more — the kitchen could put together an impressive vegetable plate if requested. Given that Heyde focuses on a Southerninflected menu and he has two Louisville restaurants, bourbon plays a large role on the bar menu of both establishments. Cocktails change seasonally at Fork & Barrel. And while Morning Fork, given the time of day it is open, sells a lot of mimosas and bloody Marys, it also has a drink called #INEEDCOFFEE made with bourbon, amaro, and cold brew coffee. The restaurant will make a bloody Mary with bourbon if requested, which fits in with the philosophy of accommodating guests’ tastes. Heyde likes to tell a story related to him by bourbon maker Preston Van Winkle, “Preston was in [Fork & Barrel] one night and talking about being over in London. He went to a bar and ordered one of his family’s coveted high (top) Morning Fork’s main dining room. (center, left) Morning Fork’s Chef de cuisine Jon Pauly. (center, right) Fork & Barrel’s Chef de cuisine Tina Dyer. (left) Morning Fork’s bar and additional dining. 20
Fork & Barrel_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 11/30/21 7:07 AM Page 21
end bourbons with a splash and the bartender refused to sell it to him that way saying that that wouldn’t be how Pappy would drink it. Preston pulled out some ID and replied, ‘Well, that’s kind of funny because he was my great-grandfather and that’s exactly how he drank it.’” Fork & Barrel is also among the restaurants that cook up a Thanksgiving dinner with all the trimmings, including cornbread dressing, that customers can order online or by phone to take home for the holiday. Running two restaurants, one dedicated to breakfast and lunch and the other to dinner, has given the Heydes opportunities to develop special events for each, such as the brunches at Morning Fork and wine tastings and dinners at Fork & Barrel. Emily Heyde oversees the events as well as takes care of social media. The couple has been gratified that their customers embraced curbside during the pandemic and have returned to the restaurants so enthusiastically. But they do have a request. Not alone among restaurant owners to notice this, it seems that a lot of post-Covid diners have, in Emily Heyde’s words, “forgotten how to interact with other human beings.” She noted that there has always been the occasional difficult customer, “But it has become exponentially worse. I just read in the Wall Street Journal that restaurants are posting [signs] to be nicer to their staffs. Yes, we're human, we make mistakes, but we will do our best to fix them. But you don't have to be nasty to get us to fix them.” All things considered, though, the Heydes are very pleased with how their restaurants are doing and with being able to have a majority of satisfied guests. It is certainly a testimony to diners’ experiences that as early as October, people were calling to book their December holiday parties. And, of course, there will be a New Year’s Day Pajama Brunch to ring in 2022. F&D Four Morning Fork dishes: (top left) Smoked salmon sandwich with a fried egg and Boursin cheese spread on a croissant. (top right) A savory crêpe of country ham, apple, arugula with a balsamic reduction. (center) A hash of house-made corned beef, sweet potato, medium egg with béarnaise sauce. (right) Short rib benedict. 21
Easy Entertaining_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/30/21 7:55 AM Page 22
food | easy entertaining
EASY entertaining
BY TIM & LORI LAIRD PHOTOS BY DAN DRY
Funky Fondue Party
Fads have probably been around since before the dawn of recorded history. But it took the rise of TV in the fifties and sixties to give us Hula Hoops, Beatle cuts, and leisure suits. These days, with all of us dipping into different media streams, it’s hard to imagine an era when literally everybody recognized the “Macarena.” Or a time when a fondue pot was mandatory in any well-equipped kitchen. But it was so. And why not? There’s an elegant, communal simplicity to the art of fondue. It may have originated in Switzerland as one-pot winter comfort food, but the basic idea of dipping things in hot melted cheese or other savory liquids must date back to the first time anybody hung a pot over a fire (a recipe that sounds a lot like fondue shows up in Book XI of Homer’s Iliad). By the 70s professional chefs and home cooks had already begun adapting the original Swiss cheese-centric fondue technique as a tool for all manner of fusion cuisines — because of its intrinsic flexibility — and because it’s such a great shareable, social dish that people just wanted to be able to use it in all kinds of contexts. This winter, as people gradually start gathering to share meals and stories, we’re feeling a little nostalgia for what used to be a fad, and is now just one more tool in any cook’s easy entertaining repertoire. We’ve acquired various fondue pots over time. One of them was a wedding gift from my mom. If you ask around you can probably find parents or friends with pots stashed away that you can borrow. Or just keep your sauces warm on the stove or in crockpots. Barbecue, garlic oil, bourbon and a French twist on Swiss cheese are our choices for dips at this party, but there are scores more which you can find with a quick Goodle search. Our “main course” uses smoky grilled chicken, turkey meatballs and pork tenderloin for dipping into barbecue sauce. A twist on garlicky Italian bagna cauda is perfect for shrimp. Creamy Brie with wild mushrooms is yummy with vegetables. Of course, everybody loves the luxury of dessert fondues. The natural (and delicious) choice for dessert is chocolate and fruit. But we like to mix things up a little with a wonderful bourbon dipping sauce for strawberries and pound cake or angel food cake squares. And don’t be shy about donning a leisure suit. After all, at a fondue party, it’s perfectly okay to be a drip! 22 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
22
Easy Entertaining_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/30/21 9:50 AM Page 23
easy entertaining | food
––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Bar-B-Que Fondue (Serves 6-8) You can serve this fondue with any protein you choose. Other options include sausage, cubed tofu, beef meatballs, skirt steak and cubed turkey. To save time you can buy grilled chicken breasts, cooked pork tenderloin, and pre-cooked meatballs at your local grocery store and cut them into cubes to use in this recipe.
For the Fondue: 1 28-ounce bottle Jack Daniel’s barbecue sauce (or your favorite barbecue sauce) ¼ cup Jack Daniel’s or your favorite bourbon (optional) In a medium-size pan warm the barbecue sauce and add the bourbon. Stir until mixed and heated through. Keep warm on the stove or in a fondue pot. Serve with grilled chicken, pork tenderloin and turkey meatballs.
For the Grilled Chicken dippers: 4 skinless, boneless breasts of chicken halves 1 cup Italian salad dressing Marinate the chicken in the Italian salad dressing for 4 to 6 hours in a gallon size zipper-style bag. Preheat the grill to medium heat and grill for 7 minutes on each side or until cooked through and the temperature reaches 165 degrees internally. Let rest then cut into 1-inch cubes.
For the Pork Tenderloin dippers: ½ ½ ¼ ¼ ¼ 2 1½ 1 1 1 2
cup soy sauce cup dry sherry cup honey cup rice wine vinegar cup vegetable oil tablespoons orange juice, fresh tablespoons fresh rosemary, minced tablespoon shallots, peeled and minced teaspoon fresh ginger, minced teaspoon garlic, peeled and crushed 1-pound pork tenderloins
Combine the soy sauce, sherry, honey, vinegar, oil, and orange juice in a medium bowl, whisking until well blended. Stir in the rosemary, shallots, ginger and garlic. Set aside ½ cup for basting and refrigerate. Pour the mixture into a gallon-size zipper-style bag, add the pork tenderloins and marinate overnight in the refrigerator. Bring to room temperature. Grill over medium-high heat or roast at 350 degrees for approximately 15 to 25 minutes. Baste often while cooking. Pork should reach 165 degrees internally. Let rest then cut into 1-inch cubes. www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 23
Easy Entertaining_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/30/21 7:56 AM Page 24
Bar-B-Que Fondue Oil and Garlic Fondue with Poached Shrimp
24
Brie and Wild Mushroom Fondue Bourbon Fondue with Strawberries
Easy Entertaining_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/30/21 7:56 AM Page 25
easy entertaining | food
For the Turkey Meatballs dippers: 1 ¼ ¼ ½ 2 2 2 1 ½ ½
pound ground turkey meat cup plain bread crumbs cup grated Parmesan cheese cup onion, peeled and finely chopped large cloves garlic, peeled and minced tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley, minced teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, minced egg, lightly beaten teaspoon salt teaspoon ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Spray a baking sheet with cooking spray. Combine the turkey with the bread crumbs, cheese, onion, garlic, parsley, thyme, egg, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Form into 1-inch balls and place on a baking sheet. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes or until cooked through.
–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Brie and Wild Mushroom Fondue
soaking liquid, making sure not to add any of the sediment in the bottom of the pan. Simmer until liquid evaporates, about 5 minutes. Toss the Brie with cornstarch in a large bowl until all the pieces are well coated. Add the Chardonnay to the mushroom mixture and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add the Brie to the mushrooms in 3 batches, whisking after each batch making sure it is melted before adding more. Continue whisking until the mixture is smooth and just begins to simmer, do not boil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer the mixture to a fondue pot or pan on a portable burner for serving. Serve with bread cubes, potato cubes and asparagus spears.
For the Asparagus dippers: Be careful not to overcook the asparagus as they will become limp and difficult to pick up and dip in the fondue. Very thin asparagus may need less cooking time.
2 bunches asparagus spears, ends Prepare a large bowl of cold water with ice. Pour 1 inch of tap water into a wide frying pan and bring to a boil. Add 1 bunch of asparagus and cook for 2 minutes. Remove asparagus with tongs and plunge into cold water. Repeat with another bunch of asparagus. When cool, drain well, pat dry, and refrigerate.
(Serves 6-8) We like to use for asparagus and potato dippers, but use whatever you like. It’s best to blanch hard vegetables like broccoli florets. You can also use bread baguette, of course.
For the Fondue: 1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 8 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, chopped 3 tablespoons shallots, chopped 1 pound wheel of cold Brie, rind removed and cut into ½” pieces 2 tablespoons cornstarch 1 cup Chardonnay Salt and Pepper 1 baguette, cut into 1-inch cubes Bring 1 cup water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the porcini mushrooms, remove from the heat and let stand for 20 minutes until the mushrooms are softened. Using a slotted spoon transfer the mushrooms to a cutting board and chop coarsely. Reserve the soaking liquid. In a large saucepan over medium heat melt the butter. Add the shiitake mushrooms and sauté until tender, about 4 minutes. Add the shallots and sauté 1 minute. Add the porcini
For the Red Skin Potatoes dippers: 2 pounds red potatoes, washed Salt and pepper to taste Bring a quart of water to a boil. Add the potatoes and simmer until fork-tender, about 12 minutes. Drain, toss with salt and pepper.
–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Oil and Garlic Fondue with Poached Shrimp (Serves 6-8) Don’t be afraid of the anchovies in this recipe — they give the fondue a salty, earthy flavor.
For the Fondue: 10 2 6 ½
garlic cloves, peeled and minced cups olive oil anchovies teaspoon chili flakes Salt and pepper 1 tablespoon parsley, minced
Pour the olive oil into a medium size pan and heat over medium low heat. When warm, add the garlic and turn the heat to low. Add the
anchovies and stir as they dissolve and turn the oil brown. Add the chili flakes, salt and pepper to taste (be careful with salt — the anchovies add a lot). Just before pouring into your fondue pot or other heated serving vessel add the parsley.
For the Shrimp dippers: You can buy the pre-cooked frozen shrimp and defrost it in the sink in a colander by running cold water over the shrimp. To add flavor, after they are defrosted squeeze a lemon over and sprinkle with Old Bay or your favorite seafood seasoning.
2 2 2 ¼ ¼ ¼
teaspoons salt lemons, juiced bay leaves cup fresh thyme leaves cup fresh flat-leaf parsley cup seafood seasoning such as Old Bay 2 pounds jumbo shrimp, shells on
Fill a large pot with a ½ gallon of water, add the salt, lemon juice, bay leaves, thyme, parsley and seafood seasoning. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and simmer for 5 minutes to infuse the water with seasonings. Reduce heat to medium-low and add shrimp. Simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes, or until the shrimp are bright pink and the tails curl. Using a slotted spoon, remove the shrimp from the poaching liquid and refrigerate. When thoroughly chilled, peel off the shell from the shrimp.
–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Bourbon Fondue with Strawberries (Serves 18-20) We serve this sauce with strawberries, but it is also good with pound cake or angel food cake. If you like the cake route, you can save time by buying pound cake or angel food cake at your local grocery and cut it into 1-inch squares.
For the Fondue: 1 cup unsalted butter, room temperature 2 cups sugar 1 pint heavy whipping cream 1 cup bourbon In heavy saucepan heat butter and sugar until melted and sugar is dissolved. Add the cream and bourbon, cook until silky smooth and light in color (about 15 minutes). Pour into fondue pot. F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 25
Cocktail Contessa_Winter21_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/30/21 8:03 AM Page 26
liquids | cocktail contessa ––––––––––––––––––––—––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Hot ‘n Bothered Buttered Rum Making a batch of buttered rum mix takes just a few minutes, but you’ll reap the rewards all season. One batch can make between 6-7 drinks, and it’s especially great to make as gifts around the holidays. While Hot Buttered Rum drinks are traditionally made with hot water, I prefer mine with steaming apple cider and a touch of lemon to balance out the sweet apple flavor. Add some whipped cream and
–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––—––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
STORY AND PHOTOS BY HEATHER WIBBELS
Dive Into Decadent Drinks This Holiday Season
W
ith cooler weather and the inevitable rush as the year wraps up, taking a few moments to mix a decadent, slightly sinful drink at home is time well-spent. During the holidays many of us are drawn toward warmer cocktails or drinks of indulgence like eggnog, espresso martinis, or dessert cocktails. And for those of us mixing at home, a small twist on a classic can take a good cocktail and turn it into something fantastic and fun to create for friends and family. For these seasonal cocktails, I created drinks that could be easily recreated at home, and most of these can also be tweaked to serve as mocktails for friends and family not drinking (or for the kids). Winter cocktails with the warm spice of rum or the pine scent of gin’s juniper were on my mind to bring the season to life. For me, creating a rich cocktail for myself or friends and family at the end of the day is a reminder of the pleasures of the season. Below you’ll find a cider-based hot buttered rum that is scrumptious with or without the rum, a cranberry tweak on the gin and tonic perfect for November and December, a boozy pomegranate hot chocolate, Tiramisu in liquid form, and an easy raspberry-chocolate champagne cocktail to celebrate midnight on New Year’s Eve.
a drizzle of caramel over the top. It’s an irresistible combination. For a mocktail, omit the rum and replace it with steaming apple cider.
2 2 ½ 6-8
oz aged/dark rum tablespoons hot buttered rum mix** oz lemon juice oz steaming hot apple cider Garnish: cinnamon stick, whipped cream, and caramel drizzle
Add hot water to the serving mug and set it aside. Gather the ingredients and heat the apple cider. Discard the hot water in the serving mug. Add rum, hot apple cider, and two tablespoons of buttered rum mix. Stir. Garnish with a cinnamon stick. Top with whipped cream and caramel drizzle if desired.
––––––––––––––––––––—––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Hot Pom Chocolate With two potent superfoods in this cocktail, it’s only a little bit of a stretch to consider it healthy, right? Pomegranate and dark chocolate pair together beautifully as the slight tartness of the pomegranate cuts down on the bitterness of the dark chocolate. Make this one a mocktail by omitting the alcohol and adding ¼ tsp of your favorite nut extract, like almond, a ½ tsp of vanilla, and increasing the pomegranate juice to 2 ounces.
Hot ‘n Bothered Buttered Rum
26 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
Hot Pom Chocolate
Cocktail Contessa_Winter21_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/30/21 8:03 AM Page 27
cocktail contessa | liquids 6-8 oz steaming hot chocolate (dark chocolate preferred) 1 oz PAMA pomegranate liqueur ½ oz Rivulet pecan liqueur or hazelnut liqueur 1 oz pomegranate juice Garnish: whipped cream, pomegranate arils, chocolate syrup Add syrup, lemon juice, bourbon, and allspice dram to a shaking tin and fill with ice. Shake for 10-12 seconds or until the shaker is so cold it’s hard to hold. Strain into a chilled coupe glass and top with marshmallows. Torch the marshmallows and sprinkle crushed graham crackers on top.
––––––––––––––––––––—–––––––––––––––––––––
Cranberry Gin and Tonic This easy gin and tonic can be built in a glass in seconds and is the perfect holiday riff on a beloved classic. The cranberry syrup, made with
unsweetened cranberry juice and sugar and infused with rosemary or cinnamon, is fast and easy to make in the microwave. Best of all, the juniper notes of the gin are reminiscent of the winter scent of pine greenery. This one can easily
be made without alcohol, simply increase the cranberry syrup to 1 oz and the lime to ¾ oz.
Add cranberry syrup and lime juice to a rocks glass or wine glass. Stir briefly. Fill with ice and
liqueur), and dry Champagne. To make this one a
add gin. Top with tonic water and garnish.
mocktail, add ½ tsp chocolate extract with 1 oz of
–––––––––––––––––––—–––––––––––––––––––––
Liquid Tiramisu Ready to try decadence in a glass? This cocktail is unabashedly sweet and rich. It combines all the wonderful flavors of tiramisu — coffee, chocolate, vanilla and rum/cognac — with a
Cranberry Gin and Tonic
raspberry syrup and top with sparkling cider.
1 oz Chambord Black Raspberry liqueur ½ oz crème de cacao 4-6 oz dry Champagne (Brut or Extra Brut) Garnish: fresh raspberries
cream float and a dusting of cocoa powder. Make a batch of these for any holiday gather-
Add the black raspberry liqueur and crème de
ing that includes coffee — or chocolate —
cacao to a chilled champagne glass. Top with
lovers and you will be the crowd favorite.
Champagne and garnish with a fresh berry.
1 1 ½ ½ 2 1½
oz dark rum or cognac oz coffee liqueur oz Licor 43 vanilla liqueur oz crème de cacao dashes chocolate bitters oz whipping cream dash of Amaretto (optional) Garnish: cocoa powder
Shake the whipping cream with the dash of amaretto until slightly thickened. It should still
**Hot Buttered Rum Mix 1 stick butter (room temperature) ½ cup brown sugar 1½ tsp cinnamon ½ tsp ground nutmeg ½ tsp ground ginger 1½ tsp vanilla 1 orange, zested (optional) Cream together the ingredients with a mixer or mix well by hand. Store in a small jar in the fridge.
be pourable. Set in the fridge. Add rum, coffee liqueur, Licor 43, crème de cacao and bitters to a mixing glass. Add ice and stir for 30 seconds. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Float 1-1½ oz
1½ oz gin ¾ oz infused cranberry simple syrup (infuse with cinnamon or rosemary)*** ½ oz lime juice Top with tonic water Garnish: fresh cranberries, rosemary sprig, lime Garnish: torched marshmallows, candied sweet potato
crème de cacao (or other non-creamy chocolate
of the cream on the top of the cocktail and add
*** Infused
Cranberry Simple Syrup
1 cup unsweetened cranberry juice 1 cup sugar 3 sprigs rosemary or 3 cinnamon sticks
a dash of cocoa powder. Heat cranberry juice in the microwave for 90 seconds
–––––––––––––––––––—–––––––––––––––––––––
to 2 minutes until it’s very hot. Add sugar and stir until
Midnight Kiss
dissolved. Add the rosemary sprigs or cinnamon in the fridge. F&D
and let steep for 20-30 minutes. Strain and store
For New Year’s Drinks I love honoring the tradition of Champagne, but always want to add a little flavor for guests who love a little intrigue. This cocktail has only three ingredients, all of
Midnight Kiss
which are easy to find: raspberry liqueur,
Liquid Tiramisu
27
Cooking with Ron_WITH Ravioli_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 11/30/21 8:14 AM Page 28
food | cooking with ron
BY RON MIKULAK | PHOTOS BY ANDY HYSLOP
H
ow pleasant it is to encounter vegetables that are not only tasty and nutritious, but also informative. That is how I regard the squashes of the many-branched cucurbita family, which besides gracing our tables also herald the change of seasons.
Summer squash — zucchini, yellow, crookneck, pattypan — are light and fresh in flavor, their skins thin and edible, their seeds so small as to be barely noticeable and an important contributor to summer squash’s texture. These are squashes that can be eaten raw, though various cooking preparations imbue the delicate flesh with a richer flavor. Winter squash, on the other hand, the seasonally appropriate focus of our consideration today, though of the same botanical family, are quite different. Winter squashes — butternut, acorn, kabocha, pumpkin and myriad others — all have thick protective skins that resist all cooking attempts to render them edible. Winter squashes have large, distinctive seeds held in place in the interior by fibrous membranes. The seeds of most winter squash varieties are pleasantly edible when picked away from the squishy membrane, rinsed, dried, roasted and salted.The flesh of winter squash will not be found on crudité trays (if that serve-yourself-and-dip-into-a-common-bowl-of-yogurt-dressing appetizer ever returns). Raw winter squash flesh is crunchy to a fault. In texture and lack of flavor, it’s not unlike trying to chew a raw potato. But when roasted — the preferred way to cook winter squash — the flesh softens, its sugars caramelize, the flavor turns sweet and rich on the tongue. Roasted winter squash can be eaten on its own, as a side dish, or 28 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
can be used to make rich and luscious soups, ravioli fillings and casseroles. There are two basic approaches to roasting winter squash. Varieties that have a corrugated, ridged exterior, like acorn and related varieties, can be cut in half crosswise, the seeds and integument holding them scraped out with a spoon and the two halves roasted until fork-tender. Let the squash halves cool enough to handle, and scrape out the roasted flesh to mash or purée. Squashes with smooth exteriors can be peeled, halved, seeded and sliced into chunks before roasting. This treatment offers more serving options. Roasted, caramelized chunks of squash can be tossed with herbed butter in a serving bowl for an easy-to-make home-style side dish. A butternut squash with a long neck can be separated from its seed-bearing bulbous base and the resulting logs sliced into half-moons, interspersed in a baking dish with sliced apples or pears (winter fruits which marry well with winter squash), basted with maple syrup and baked. Or those squash logs can be sliced not-quite all the way through and roasted hasselback style, for an attractive presentation. Chunks of roasted squash can be mashed or puréed for a fine squash soup or a ravioli filling. Puréed roasted squash can be stirred into risotto, or made into a soufflé. The variety of shapes and color patterns on the exterior of winter squashes also just make them fun to look at in seasonal table decor. The fact that winter squashes keep well for several weeks allows them to be both decorative and tasty. But be careful not to confuse the purely decorative fall gourds with oddly-shaped squashes. Though the gourds and squashes are botanically related, the gourds are not edible. Fall fruits — even cranberries — complement winter squashes, and the rich flavor and mouth feel of squashes can be made even more appealing
Cooking with Ron_WITH Ravioli_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 11/30/21 8:14 AM Page 29
cooking with ron | food with judicious use of herbs. Sage, oregano, bay leaf and basil all work well to accentuate the tastes of squash — but don’t use them all at once. One or two herbal flavors at a time accentuate; too many herb flavors at once can confuse the palate. The following recipes highlight various ways to enjoy winter squash, either by themselves, or as colorful side dishes to winter entrées, like pork roasts and roasted chicken. For some of these recipes, the type of winter squash is irrelevant, especially for dishes that require the roasted flesh to be mashed or puréed. The flesh of a kabocha squash can be made into soup or ravioli filling, but the shape of an elongated butternut squash neck is needed for the hasselback concept, and the ring shape of sliced acorn squash varieties make for an ideal container for a meat or vegetarian stuffing. These recipes worked well for me, but winter squashes are versatile, healthful vegetables, providing a variety of carotenoids, vitatmins A, C and B6 as well as soluble fiber. Above all, squashes are rich in texture and satisfying in flavor, just what a winter meal needs to be.
–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Curried butternut squash soup with apple and coconut milk (Serves 4)
1 tablespoon canola oil 2 crisp, tart, sweet apples such as Gala or Honey Crisp, unpeeled and diced 2 large shallots (or half an onion), peeled and diced 2 garlic cloves, peeled and grated 2 teaspoons fresh ginger, grated 4 cups of roasted butternut squash 1 tablespoon (or more to taste) Thai red curry paste 2 cups vegetable broth 1 13.5 ounce can coconut milk 1 teaspoon kosher salt ¹∕ 3 cup maple syrup 1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar pinch cayenne, optional Water (or apple cider) as needed to thin soup to desired consistency
Taste and adjust seasonings, and add cayenne, if desired. Garnish with chives, fresh oregano leaves, pumpkin seeds or sautéed diced apple.
–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Sausage-stuffed acorn squash (Serves 4)
1 ½ 2 1 1 ½ ²∕3
2 or 3 acorn squash tablespoon butter cup diced red bell pepper large green onions, thinly sliced pound bulk breakfast sausage cup fresh breadcrumbs cup beef broth Salt and pepper cup molasses
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Trim off the tops and bottoms of the squashes and discard. Standing the squash on their sides, cut ½-inch thick slices, cutting three or four such rings as the size of the squash permits. You will want eight rings, for four servings. Scoop out the seeds and fibers from the center and discard. Arrange squash rings in a single layer on a large, aluminum foil-covered baking sheet. Melt butter in a saucepan. Add bell pepper and
green onions and sauté, stirring, until tender, 5-7 minutes. Transfer pepper and onion to a large mixing bowl, add the sausage, breadcrumbs, broth, salt and pepper to taste, and mix with a large fork until mixture seems blended. Mound this sausage mixture in center of squash rings, using about ⅓ cup for each ring. Brush sausage and squash with half of molasses and bake until squash are tender and sausage is cooked through, about 25 minutes, basting twice more with molasses while roasting. Serve as a main dish with side vegetables.
–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Hasselback butternut squash (Serves 4) You can hasselback almost any oblong vegetable — potato, eggplant, squash — a preparation that requires tight control of a sharp knife. The modicum of effort needed for the slicing pays off in the esthetic appeal of this dish.
1 large butternut squash that has a relatively long, straight neck 1 tablespoon olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
Curried butternut squash soup with apple and coconut milk
Heat oil in a large heavy bottom pot or Dutch oven, over medium heat. Add onion and apple and cook 6-7 minutes, stirring until golden and tender, then add garlic and ginger, and cook 4-5 more minutes. Add the roasted squash, curry paste, vegetable broth and coconut milk and heat until starting to bubble. Use an immersion blender, or carefully transfer soup, in batches, to a blender, and purée. Add salt, maple syrup and apple cider vinegar. 29
Cooking with Ron_WITH Ravioli_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 11/30/21 8:14 AM Page 30
food | cooking with ron
Sausage-stuffed acorn squash Hassleback butternut squash
30
Cooking with Ron_WITH Ravioli_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 11/30/21 8:14 AM Page 31
cooking with ron | food 1 small medium-hot chili pepper, like jalapeño or seranno, cut in half and seeds removed ¼ cup maple syrup 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 6 to 8 dried bay leaves Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Cut the neck of the butternut squash from its seed-filled base. Reserve bulb for another use. Trim off the stem, and peel the squash, being sure to get down to the deep orange flesh below the white inner layer. Cut squash in half lengthwise into two flat-bottomed logs. Rub both halves all over with olive oil, place on a baking sheet and roast for 15 minutes or so, until a testing fork easily penetrates a ¼-inch or so into the flesh. While the squash is doing its first roast, combine the seeded hot pepper, the maple syrup, butter and vinegar in a saucepan, bring to a simmer and cook until mixture is thick enough to coat a spoon. Remove hot pepper and discard. Lower heat and keep glaze warm. Transfer squash to a cutting board and with sharp knife, score the rounded sides of the squash crosswise, going as deep as you can without cutting through all the way. Return sliced squash to baking dish scored sides up. Tuck bay leaves between a few of the slices and season with salt and pepper. Return squash to oven and baste with the maple syrup mixture every ten minutes or so until squash is tender and the glaze is lightly browned.
In a medium bowl, mash together the cooked butternut squash and both cheeses. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Place a wonton wrapper on a work surface and brush all over with the egg wash, which will help seal the ravioli when cooked. Place about 1 teaspoon of the butternut squash mixture into the center of the wonton, cover with second wrapper, pulling gently to match up the edges with the bottom sheet. Using a fork, press firmly on all edges to create a good seal. Place ravioli on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper, and continue making as many ravioli as you wish. If you make ravioli ahead and freeze them, there is no need to defrost before cooking. Bring a pot of well-salted water to a boil. Gently place ravioli into the water one by one, taking care not to crowd the pot. Work in batches if you are cooking a lot of ravioli. Reduce heat from a roiling boil to a strong simmer, and cook ravioli until they float to the surface. Use a slotted spoon to remove the ravioli and place them on the prepared baking sheet while you cook the rest.
For the sage butter sauce with walnuts: ¾ 2 ½ 16
Kosher salt cup walnuts garlic cloves cup (1 stick) unsalted butter sage leaves Freshly ground black pepper
Chop walnuts so they’re roughly the size of peas. Smash the garlic cloves, peel, and discard skins. Cut ½ cup unsalted butter into 8 pieces and transfer to a large skillet. Heat skillet over medium-low and cook butter, swirling often, until just melted, 2–3 minutes. Add walnuts and garlic and continue to cook, stirring often until nuts and garlic are light golden brown and butter solids are browned as well, 3–4 minutes longer. Add sage leaves and cook, stirring constantly, until sage crackles and is dark green and crisp, about 1 minute longer. Remove skillet from heat. Discard garlic cloves. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
F&D
Divide ravioli among plates. Top with butter sauce and sprinkle with Parmesan and black pepper.
Butternut Squash Ravioli with a sage butter sauce
–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Butternut Squash Ravioli with a sage butter sauce (Makes 16 or more ravioli) Before I found an Atlas pasta machine at a yard sale a few years ago, I usually used wonton wrappers to make ravioli. Now I like to make my own pasta sheets for ravioli, but I found wonton wrappers still work just fine, with much less work. Peel the wrappers apart carefully, cover those not being used with a damp paper towel, and be careful not to tear the upper wrapper as you cover the filling. Three or four ravioli of this size makes for a reasonable serving. For four servings, make 16. I make as many as I can with the filling quantity I have, and freeze extras for later meals. For my next batch, I think I might add some finely chopped apple or pear to the filling.
1 cup roasted butternut squash, puréed ½ cup ricotta cheese ½ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese Salt and pepper, to taste 1 package wonton wrappers (36 wrappers) 1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water
wwwfoodanddine.com Winter 202131 31
Against the Grain_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 11/30/21 8:26 AM Page 32
profile | against the grain restaurant group
Growing up
Against the
Grain BY ROGER BAYLOR PHOTOS BY DAN DRY
A decade later, Louisville’s quirkiest craft brewery keeps evolving
32 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
Louisville’s craft beer scene in the 90s was grayer than Aunt Claudine’s thinning hair. Every pale ale was a pale ale, every porter was a porter and so on and so forth. It was different then, but truth be told that’s where the tale of Against the Grain begins. In 2011 a quartet of disgruntled brewery and restaurant workers with legendarily distinct personalities joined together in “dream team” fashion to revive the failing Browning’s Brewery at Louisville Slugger Field on Main Street in downtown Louisville. It was clear from the start that subtlety wouldn’t be one of Against the Grain’s (ATG) core brands. The flagship Brewery &
Smokehouse didn’t so much open the doors for business in 2011 as swagger, strut and sashay from the starting gate, vowing to push local beer to greater heights, and promising to never be boring in the process. Their mission has been accomplished, and it’s no coincidence that the modern era of exuberant growth for Louisville-area breweries began with the advent of ATG. From a half-dozen local breweries in 2011, the metropolitan era now boasts at least 30, with others being planned. ATG might have taken a well-deserved victory lap in 2021, but the company’s 10th anniversary year has been one of its most momentous and challenging yet. Emerging from the existential trauma of
Against the Grain_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 11/30/21 8:27 AM Page 33
against the grain restaurant group | profile
the Covid-19 pandemic, when ATG stripped down to bare bones, a comeback is under way following a series of low-risk, high-reward neighborhood expansion opportunities. New outlets for the brewery’s award-winning beers have been added in the Highlands, Butchertown and the downtown business district, diversifying ATG’s footprint and reaching beyond the usual craft beer demographic to entice Louisvillians to come back inside to eat a sandwich, watch a musical performance, or just hang out. ATG’s four co-owners have been making big decisions lately, so I asked each to describe the way their decision-making process works. “Rarely do we have a 50/50 split,” replied brewer Jerry Gnagy. “It’s obviously my way or the highway. If there is a vote it’s usually done on a Dominion Voting machine…so most results are invalid.” Not so, said Adam Watson, who terms himself
ATG’s professional service manager: “We still get drunk and shout at each other, but as we grow, we have raised the bar for which topics are worth shouting about. Ties are broken via kumite [editor’s note: karate-style sparring].” “Roshambo is the preferred method of a tie break, sometimes followed by violence,” objected general manager Andrew Ott, “and either way, I always get what I want.” In short, the same charming irreverence we’ve come to expect, leaving it to Sam Cruz, carrier of many briefs at ATG, to play it straight by describing the partnership as one that succeeds because four good friends defer to whomever possesses the necessary expertise on a given topic. According to Cruz, the next tie vote will be ATG’s first. “I would attribute (success) to our ability to communicate and respect one another's point of view,” he said. “We may seem like egotistical knuckleheads, but when it comes to business we all check it at the door.” That’s the crux of it, because to look past ATG’s history of shtick is to grasp that unlike so many punk rockers, this particular Fab Four always knew how to play their instruments, even if it served their
Against the Grain Brewery & Smokehouse (Louisville Slugger Field) 401 E Main St. • Louisville, KY
(502) 515-0174 HOURS Mon – Thurs: 4:00pm – 10:00pm Fri - Sat: 12:00pm – 10:00pm Sun: 12:00pm – 9:00pm
Against the Grain Public House 1576 Bardstown Rd. • Louisville, KY
(502) 409-9866 HOURS Mon – Sun: 12:00pm – 10:00pm
Against the Grain Sandwich Emporium (upstairs) 119 S. 7th St. • Louisville, KY
(502) 653-7577 HOURS Mon – Fri: 8:00am – 3:00pm Sat - Sun: 11:00am – 3:00pm
The Flamingo Lounge (downstairs) 119 S. 7th St. • Louisville, KY
(502) 653-7577 HOURS Wed – Sun: 5:00pm – 12:00am
The Whirling Tiger 1335 Story Ave. • Louisville, KY
(502) 632-1440 HOURS Wed – Sun: Opens at 4:00pm
www.atgbrewery.com (includes information on all locations except The Whirling Tiger)
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 33
Against the Grain_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 11/30/21 8:27 AM Page 34
profile | against the grain restaurant group profile | sarino
purposes to pretend they didn’t, and to deflect by merrily smashing their guitars. A proper chronicle of ATG’s boisterous foundational years would be book-length, so consider a representative sampling of beer names to date: Johann Paycheque, Not Here To Fornicate With Arachnids, Mopery With Intent To Dawdle, Who Shvarted?, Raucho Man Randy Beverage, Solipsistic Narcissistic Braggot, Erogenous Rhone, Pepperation H, Judas Yeast, and Not Your Father's Hand Sani. In 2011, Watson articulated a “rotating beer” theory of ATG’s forthcoming permanent revolution (with apologies to Leon Trotsky): “Each brew is a new beer, which means, in essence, every beer is a specialty. A classic English Mild may be found next to an adjunct-laden, herbal, barrel-aged, white stout. At Against the Grain, anything isn't just possible, it's probable.” The food at ATG would be similarly kaleidoscopic, with Watson describing “a smokehouse that echoes the creativity and dynamism of our beers. Frequent menu changes and specials allow us to utilize the freshest local ingredients and provide interesting new ideas alongside familiar, comfortable staples.” Consequently ATG’s mash forks and dinner knives were brandished alongside manifestos and mayhem, all of it set against the unique backdrop of the three-story Old World tower brewery at Slugger Field. It was a winning formula, to say the least. Younger craft beer lovers embraced ATG as a standard-bearer, as encapsulating a pants-down generational antidote to the stodginess of stylebookobsessed veterans of the fermentation wars. The veterans? They knew quality beers when they tasted them, and Gnagy won the awards to prove it. But a decade has passed, and in 2021 our enfant terrible shows signs of rounding into a stable, settled and even stately middle age. The four idol-smashing Young Turks still display edgy moments of absurdist improvisation, questionable non-sequiturs and groaning puns, but with ever higher stakes they’ve yielded to earnest chats about community engagement and neighborhood development. Is it really possible that the same folks who brought us beers like Bo & Luke, Citra Ass Down, Kentucky Ryed Chiquen and Pile of Face — not to (top) The Smokehouse house-cured pork belly on a stick. (center, left) Pork nachos from the Smokehouse. (center, right) A classic Reuben from Sandwich Emporium. (left) Bavarian pretzel available at both the Smokehouse and Public House. 34
Against the Grain_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 11/30/21 8:27 AM Page 35
against the grain restaurant group | profile
mention the eternally scatological The Brown Note — are rolling up their sleeves to help save Louisville? Of course it’s possible. In my view, they’ve been doing it all along.
It’s just a Louisville state of mind As director of operations, Jason Smith is an ATG newbie, signing up in mid-2021 following a long, meritorious tenure at the Gordon Biersch restaurant and brewery downtown. Smith’s job is to coordinate the new acquisitions, and he says the company’s ownership structure is built for smooth performance. “I call myself the Fifth Beatle,” Smith told me. “You’ve got Adam, who handles all the compliance and legal, and Sam with sales and marketing. Jerry does all the brewing. Andrew and I do operations; he’s more the financial guy, and I’m the facility and IT guy. It fits perfectly, and we all work together.” Corporate Chef Kyle McCoy makes an even halfdozen, and both Smith and McCoy refer to themselves as workplace spouses leading “River Road” lives, the route connecting all of the ATG outposts save the one located in the Highlands, which came into being in 2019 when Louisville craft brewing pioneer Mark Allgeier began pondering exit strategies for his Cumberland Brews brewpub.
ATG Public House (1576 Bardstown Road) When Cruz heard the news from Allgeier, he immediately remembered his first craft beer after moving to Louisville: Matt’s Red Ale, created by the late, great Cumberland brewer Matt Gould. Negotiations culminated in a “passing of the torch.” “We want to keep that neighborhood vibe going and kind of reinvigorate that area in the Highlands,” Cruz told the Courier-Journal. "We'll very much pay homage to Cumberland and ultimately the Louisville beer culture that brought my company to where it's at.” Allgeier approves, describing ATG’s stewardship of his creation as “a great transition into a new era.” The tiny brewing system at the Public House has been repurposed for sake and mead production by Travis Pierce, under the rubric of River City Sake Company, and McCoy has taken the kitchen in a different direction (below).
ATG Sandwich Emporium and Flamingo Lounge (119 South 7th Street) Another Place Sandwich Shop was a multi-generational downtown dining institution lasting 50 years until (top) Sandwich Emporium’s turkey club of smoked turkey, aged cheddar, bacon, lettuce and tomato, on sourdough. (center) Chicken wings tossed in ATG barbecue sauce available at both the Smokehouse and Public House. (right) Burgoo served at both the Smokehouse and Sandwich Emporium. 35
Against the Grain_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 11/30/21 8:27 AM Page 36
profile | against the grain restaurant group February of 2021, when the Goodwin family couldn’t hold on any longer amid pandemic uncertainties. A jazz club in the basement, Jimmy Can’t Dance, was also effectively beached by Covid. ATG acted quickly to absorb them both, with the newly dubbed Flamingo Lounge downstairs debuting in July, followed by the Sandwich Emporium upstairs in October. Another Place was exhausted, not necessarily broken, so the delistyle menu has been tweaked only lightly. Pastrami, Cuban and Reuben sandwiches top the menu, with a new tier of breakfast sandwiches for morning risers. Conversely the atmosphere at Flamingo Lounge is latenight and bar-oriented, a precursor to ATG’s latest new/old foray in Butchertown.
The Whirling Tiger (1335 Story Avenue) In November, Smith was spending many of his working hours preparing to open The Whirling Tiger, perhaps the most intriguing of ATG’s adaptive reuse projects (the name refers to an 1890 tornado that tore through Butchertown). Opened in mid-November, The Whirling Tiger is a performance venue featuring ATG’s beers, but emphasizing a broader bar program (“bourbon and bubbles,” Cruz calls it) without food service, although in-house catering soon will become available for events. The venue’s updated identity implicitly riffs off the building’s best known previous occupant, as explained by Smith, who recently received a shipment of shrink-wrapped bar equipment. The driver’s delivery instructions were written on the plastic with a Sharpie: “To Old Butchertown Pub.”
It might be added that ATG’s initial foray from the Slugger Field mothership came in 2014 with the debut of a production brewery in the Portland neighborhood, enabling distribution of beer to a preCovid peak of 43 states and 25 countries, reduced to 21 states as the company’s pandemic recovery proceeds.
Three kitchens and just as many culinary concepts McCoy, a former music student and occasional teacher, came to the Smokehouse at Slugger Field in 2015 looking for work and a positive change in his life. He found both in the kitchen. “I was a prep cook in the morning, washed dishes and basically began at the bottom,” McCoy recalls. “It started off as a temporary job, and then I realized, you know what? I’ll stick with this, and let's see where it goes.” McCoy promptly immersed himself in culinary arts, absorbing cookbooks, watching videos and asking questions. ATG’s co-owners noticed. “They saw that I was capable of managing people,” says McCoy, “and they saw that I had a passion for the food and barbecue, so they promoted me to management.” McCoy’s battlefield promotions escalated in 2020. When the pandemic descended, ATG shuttered the Brewery & Smokehouse and furloughed all but a handful of employees. It was a time for improvisation and reinvention on the fly. McCoy’s attention turned to the Public House, where the original menu, loosely based on Anglo-Irish pub fare like fish and chips and chicken schnitzel sandwiches, proved financially unsustainable.
The Smokehouse’s famous brisket. 36
Against the Grain_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 11/30/21 8:27 AM Page 37
When the Public House reopened for curbside carryout, McCoy pivoted to burgers, fries, salads and simple picnic-style sides. These comfort foods were offered alongside ATG beer to go, resonating immediately in the dense, surrounding residential areas. A new clientele materialized, and the Public House embraced an identity it retained once dinein service was again permitted. With the Smokehouse’s huge footprint workable as a commissary kitchen, McCoy projects future catering applications, and with the Public House’s burgers and the Emporium’s deli sandwiches working well, the flagship Smokehouse has been freed to double down on its core BBQ offerings. “The Smokehouse is a titan. It’s a monster in and of itself,” McCoy notes. “The Smokehouse is what I cut my teeth on, and barbecue is first and foremost there. We have the best brisket in the city.” To McCoy’s prized brisket are added smoked ribs, burgoo, chicken wings, pulled chicken breast, chopped pork, pork nachos, turkey, chili and even a selection of salads that seem only slightly out of place. It’s time to summarize. Today’s Against the Grain has six physical locations encompassing three breweries, three kitchens, and three distinct food menus, alongside space enough for televised sports, poetry readings, Saturday Night Fever gyrations, and in a pinch, maybe even permission to crawl off into the corner and read a book. And, four crazy co-owners. What comes next for ATG? Gnagy: “I see going down in a blaze of glory and riding eternal, shiny and chrome on the highways of Valhalla (not the golf course; I’m no longer allowed there.)” Ott: “I hope to one day break ground on a revolutionary macaroon factory to further serve the needs of the American people.” Watson: “I am very excited about the next 10 years of ATG galactic domination…No matter who you are, if you like having a good time, we’ve got something for you.” And Cruz, from the collective heart: “My partners and I love Louisville and hope that we can have a timeless business presence and brand that not only benefits us and our team, but also benefits the city and its great residents.” F&D (top left) The “Dirty Burger” from Public House. (top right) Co-owner Sam Cruz (left) and Corporate Chef Kyle McCoy. (center) The Smokehouse’s spare ribs with coleslaw and brisket baked beans. (right) Chopped pork sandwich with Weisenberger grits and Brussels sprouts from the Smokehouse. 37
Guide Index_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Layout 1 11/30/21 8:33 AM Page 38
dining guide Cuisine Style African..............................61 Asian/Chinese..................61 Asian/Japanese. ..............62 Asian/Korean ...................64 Asian/Thai........................64
Asian/Vietnamese ............64 Bar & Grill/Taphouse........57 Barbecue .........................54 Bistro/New American .......44 Burgers/Chicken ..............48 Cafés ...............................49 Cafeterias/Buffet ..............57 Cajun/Creole....................64 Casual Dining ..................51 Coffee/Tea Houses ..........73 Cuban/Caribbean.............65
Alphabetical Index RESTAURANT
The 1894 Lodge 211 Clover Lane 21st Amendment Tavern 502 Crab House 610 Magnolia 80/20 @ Kaelin's 888 Great Wall 8th Street Pizza 8UP Drinkery A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China Abol Café About Time Bar and Grill Abyssinia Ada's Kitchen and Catering Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café Adrienne's Italian Afrokanza Lounge Against The Grain Agave & Rye Epic Tacos Aji Sushi and Asian Cuisine Al Sultan Mediterranean Grill Aladdin's Mediterranean Alex&nder Alley Cat Café American Smokehouse Stadium Amici Angie’s Cafe Angilo's Pizza Angio's Italian Restaurant Annie Café Annie May's Sweets Café Annie's Pizza Anoosh Bistro Apna Café Apocalypse Brew Works Applebee's Arata Sushi Arni's Pizza Arno's Pizza Aroma Café Asahi Japanese Asian Buffet Asian Wok Asiana Sushi Aspen Creek Restaurant ATG Sandwich Emporium Atrium Brewing Atrium Café August Moon Avenue Bar B.J.'s Restaurant & Brewhouse Babie Bac'z Good Grill Baby Mae's Back Deck BBQ Baer’s City Winery Bandido Taqueria Mexicana bar Vetti Baraka Restaurant Barcelona Bistro Bar Barn8 Barrelhouse on Market Barry's Cheesesteaks Baxter's 942 Bean Bearno's Beef O'Brady's Bella Roma Bento Asian Kitchen + Sushi Big Al’s Beeritaville Big Ben's BBQ Biscuit Belly Bistro Le Relais Blackbeard Espresso Blackstone Grille Blaze Fast Fire'd Pizza Blind Squirrel Blue Dog Bakery Blue Horse Café Bluegrass Brewing Company Board and You Bistro & Wine Bar Bob's Steak & Chop House Bombay Grill Bonefish Grill Bonnie & Clyde's Pizza Book & Bourbon Southern Kitchen Boombozz Pizza · Watch Bar Boomer's Café Boomtown Boomtown Creamery
RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.
PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 42 42 47 46 42 48 61 52 42 51 61 73 57 61 57 71 66 61 60 51 62 68 68 44 49 54 66 49 52 66 64 71 52 44 67 60 51 62 52 52 49 62 61 61 62 51 54 60 49 61 57 57 54 54 54 51 69 66 61 67 42 57 55 57 73 52 57 66 62 57 54 51 66 73 42 52 51 49 49 60 44 46 67 46 52 57 52 49 51 71
MAP #
Upscale Casual 16 Fine Dining 3 Gastropub 13 Seafood 13 Fine Dining 13 Burgers / Chicken 2 Asian / Chinese 8 Pizza 14 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 14, 16 Asian / Chinese 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 African 1 Southern / Soul Food 1 Desserts / Bakery 16 European / Italian 16 African 2 Microbreweries 1 Casual Dining 2, 14 Asian / Japanese 11 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 11 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 14 Bistro / New American 2 Cafes 5 Barbecue 16 European / Italian 13 Cafes 16 Pizza 13 European / Italian 6 13 Asian / Vietnamese Desserts / Bakery 3 Pizza 9,12 Bistro / New American 7 Indian 8 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 11,12,13,15 Asian / Japanese 10 Pizza 14 Pizza 4 Cafes 14 Asian / Japanese 3 Asian / Chinese 14 Asian / Chinese 2 Asian / Japanese 11 Casual Dining 3,11 Deli / Sandwich 1 Microbreweries 1 Cafes 5 Asian / Chinese 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 Barbecue 12 Barbecue 14 Barbecue 13 Casual Dining 14 Mexican 1,13 European / Italian 1 African 1 European / Spanish 6 Fine Dining 10 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Deli / Sandwich 1,2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 13 Pizza [14] Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5,3,14 European / Italian 14 Asian / Japanese 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Barbecue 16 Casual Dining 1,3,13 European / French 4 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 Upscale Casual 10 Pizza 3,5,8,15 Casual Dining 5 Cafes 2 Cafes 13 Microbreweries 1 Bistro / New American 14 Steakhouse 1 Indian 5 Seafood 5 Pizza 12 Southern / Soul Food 13 Pizza 2,5, 6, 15 Cafes 1 Casual Dining 14 Desserts / Bakery 14
38 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
Indian ...............................67 Latin American .................68 Mediterranean/Mid East...68 Mexican ...........................69 Microbreweries ................60 Pizza ................................52 Seafood ...........................46 Southern/Soul Food.........57 Southwest/Tex Mex..........71 Steakhouse......................46 Upscale Casual................42
Deli/Sandwich ..................54 Desserts/Bakery ..............71 Diner/Home Style.............56 Entertainment Dining .......60 European/French .............66 European/German ...........66 European/Irish .................66 European/Italian...............66 European/Spanish ...........67 Fine Dining.......................42 Gastropub ........................47
RESTAURANT
Bootleg Barbecue Co. Borromeo's Pizza & Italian Borsalino Café & Deli Boudreaux's Cajun Cooking Boudreaux's Sno-Balls Bourbon's Bistro Brasserie Provence Bravo! Brazeiros Churrascaria Breadworks Brendon's Catch 23 Brew & Sip Coffee Bar Brian's Deli Brick House Tavern + Tap Bristol Bar & Grille Brix Wine Bar Brooklyn & The Butcher Brownie's 'The Shed' Bruegger's Bagels Bubbakoo's Burritos Bubba's 33 Buca Di Beppo Buck's Bud's Tavern & Barbecue Buffalo Wild Wings Bungalow Joe's Bar & Grill Bunz Restaurant Burger Boy Burger Girl BurgerIM Butcher's Best Butchertown Grocery Bakery Cadillacs Chicken and Fish Café 360 Café Aroma Café Thuy Van Caffe Classico California Pizza kitchen Cancún Captain Crab Seafood Boil and Bar Captain's Quarters Riverside Grille Carali's Rotisserie Chicken Caribbean Café Carrabba's Italian Grill Carr's BBQ and Market CASK Southern Kitchen & Bar Caspian Grill Persian Café Cast Iron Steakhouse Catfish Haven Restaurant Cattleman's Roadhouse CC’s Low Carb Kitchen Chamling Kitchen & Bar Champions Grille Charcoal Charlestown Pizza Co. Charr'd Bourbon Kitchen Check's BBQ & Blues Check's Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar's Scratch Kitchen Cheer King Star The Cheesecake Factory Chef's Cut Pizzeria Chicago Steak & Lemonade The Chicken House Chicken King Chicken Salad Chick Chik'n & Mi Chili's China 1 China Bistro China Buffet China Café China Castle China Chef China Coast China Dragon China Garden China King China Star China Taste Chipotle Mexican Grill Chong Garden Chopsticks House Christi's Café Christmas Morning Café Chubby Ray's Chung King Palace Chuy's Ciao
PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 54 52 49 64 71 44 66 42 46 71 42 73 55 51 42 44 46 57 55 69 57 66 42 58 48 58 48 56 56 48 55 71 46 49 69 64 49 52 69 46 46 68 65 66 54 57 68 46 46 46 49 67 51 68 52 42 54 56 49 51 61 42 52 55 48 48 48 64 51 61 61 62 62 62 62 62 62 62 62 62 62 69 62 62 49 50 52 62 71 66
MAP #
Barbecue 11 Pizza 13 Cafes 4 Cajun / Creole 5 Desserts / Bakery 5 Bistro / New American 2 European / French 5 Upscale Casual 3 Steakhouse 1 Desserts / Bakery 2,7 Upscale Casual 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 4 Deli / Sandwich 1 Casual Dining 6 Upscale Casual 1,2,5 Bistro / New American 8 Steakhouse 14 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6,14 Deli / Sandwich 3 Mexican 3, 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 15 European / Italian 6 Fine Dining 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6,12 Burgers / Chicken 3,5,6,8,11,15 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 Burgers / Chicken 2 Diner / Home Style 13 Diner / Home Style 3 Burgers / Chicken 3 Deli / Sandwich 10 Desserts / Bakery 1 Seafood 11 Cafes 2 Mexican 2 Asian / Vietnamese 13 Cafes 2 Pizza 5 Mexican 5 Seafood 13 Seafood 10 Latin American 1,2,5,6 Cuban / Caribbean 2 European / Italian 5 Barbecue 14 Southern / Soul Food 6 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Steakhouse 16 Seafood 12 Steakhouse 6,13, 14 Cafes 1 Indian 4 Casual Dining 16 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 8 Pizza 16 Upscale Casual 6 Barbecue 5 Diner / Home Style 13 Cafes 3 Casual Dining 8,13,15 Asian / Chinese 1 Upscale Casual 3 Pizza 5 Deli / Sandwich 6 Burgers / Chicken 14 Burgers / Chicken 1 Burgers / Chicken 5, 15 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Casual Dining 2,4,5,8,13,15 Asian / Chinese 3,5 Asian / Chinese 1 Asian / Chinese 15 Asian / Chinese 8,13 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 11 Asian / Chinese 13 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 13 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 3 Asian / Chinese 16 Mexican 1,2,5,8 Asian / Chinese 11, 12 Asian / Chinese 9,13 Cafes 12 Cafes 2 Pizza 6 Asian / Chinese 1 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,15 European / Italian 2
RESTAURANT City Barbecue Classico Takeout and Empanadas Clay Oven Clever Moose Café Clifton Donuts Close Enough Café Clucker's Wings Coals Artisan Pizza Coconut Beach Tacos Coffee Crossing Cold Smoke Bagels Cold Stone Creamery Come Back Inn The Comfy Cow Common Haus Con Huevos CoreLife Eatery Corner Corner Café Cottage Café Cottage Inn Crave Café & Catering Cravings Ala Carte Crumbl Cookies Cuban Restaurant and Bakery Cultivator Coffee Cultured Cheese and Charcuterie Culver's Cunningham's Creekside Cup of Joy Currito Cuvée Wine Table D. Nalley's Daddy Rich's Daddy Vic's Soul Food Dairy Kastle Daisuki Sushi Dakshin Indian Restaurant DaLat's Gateaux & Bakery Danny Mac's Pasta & Pizza Dasha Barbours Bistro Dave & Buster's Dave & Peg's Copper Kettle Day's Espresso Decca Deeno's Pizza & Wings Del Frisco's Denny's Derby Café Express Derby City Pizza Derby Dinner Playhouse Diamond Pub & Billiards Difabio's Casapela Dino's Bakery DiOrio's Pizza & Pub District 6 Ditto's Grill Dixie Chicken Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Doc Crow's Doc's Bourbon Room Donum Dei Brewery Double Dogs Double Dragon Double Dragon 9 Double Dragon II Double Flame Burger Down One Bourbon Bar Dragon Café Dragon City Dragon King's Daughter Drake's Duck Donuts Dundee Tavern East Star Buffet Eat A Pita Eat Your Bourbon Marketplace Eatz Vietnamese Restaurant Eden & Kissi Eggholic Eggs Over Frankfort Ehrler's Ice Cream El Caporal El Comal Taqueria El Mariachi El Molcajete El Mundo El Nopal El Pastorcito El Rinconcito El Rio Grande El Sazon de Abuela El Sombrero El Taco Loco El Taco Luchador El Tarasco El Torazo El Toro Cantina & Grill Emmy Squared Pizza Endless Summer Coffee Company English Grill Equus & Jack's Restaurant Everyday Kitchen Ev's Deli Exchange Pub + Kitchen Executive Bistro Faces Bar/Bistro Falafel House Falafel Oasis Falls City Taproom Family Ties Famous Dave's BBQ Fante's Coffee Farm to Fork Café Fat Jimmy's FDKY BBQ Feast BBQ Felipe’s Mexican Restaurant Fiesta Mexicana Fiesta Time Amigos Fiesta Time Mexican Grill Firehouse Subs First String Bar & Grill First Watch First Wok The Fish House Fistful of Ale Fistful of Tacos Five Guys Burgers FIX Coffeehouse and Bakery
PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 54 68 67 73 71 55 48 52 69 73 55 72 66 72 66 69 51 47 50 56 56 50 57 72 65 73 42 48 46 50 51 44 56 48 57 72 63 67 72 52 57 60 56 73 42 52 46 51 50 52 60 58 66 72 52 64 44 48 48 42 47 60 51 62 62 62 48 47 62 62 63 58 72 58 62 68 51 64 65 67 44 72 69 69 69 69 69 69 70 68 70 68 70 70 70 70 70 70 52 73 42 43 42 55 47 56 53 68 68 58 48 54 73 50 53 54 54 70 70 70 70 55 58 51 62 46 60 70 48 73
Barbecue Latin American Indian Coffee / Tea Houses Desserts / Bakery Deli / Sandwich Burgers / Chicken Pizza Mexican Coffee / Tea Houses Deli / Sandwich Desserts / Bakery European / Italian Desserts / Bakery European / German Mexican Casual Dining Gastropub Cafes Diner / Home Style Diner / Home Style Cafes Cafeterias / Buffet Desserts / Bakery Cuban / Caribbean Coffee / Tea Houses Upscale Casual Burgers / Chicken Seafood Cafes Casual Dining Bistro / New American Diner / Home Style Burgers / Chicken Southern / Soul Food Desserts / Bakery Asian / Japanese Indian Desserts / Bakery Pizza Southern / Soul Food Entertainment Dining Diner / Home Style Coffee / Tea Houses Upscale Casual Pizza Steakhouse Casual Dining Cafes Pizza Entertainment Dining Bar & Grill / Taphouse European / Italian Desserts / Bakery Pizza Asian / Vietnamese Bistro / New American Burgers / Chicken Burgers / Chicken Upscale Casual Gastropub Microbreweries Casual Dining Asian / Chinese Asian / Chinese Asian / Chinese Burgers / Chicken Gastropub Asian / Chinese Asian / Chinese Asian / Japanese Bar & Grill / Taphouse Desserts / Bakery Bar & Grill / Taphouse Asian / Chinese Mediterranean/Middle Eastern Casual Dining Asian / Vietnamese Cuban / Caribbean Indian Bistro / New American Desserts / Bakery Mexican Mexican Mexican Mexican Mexican Mexican Mexican Latin American Mexican Latin American Mexican Mexican Mexican Mexican Mexican Mexican Pizza Coffee / Tea Houses Fine Dining Upscale Casual Fine Dining Deli / Sandwich Gastropub Diner / Home Style Pizza Mediterranean/Middle Eastern Mediterranean/Middle Eastern Bar & Grill / Taphouse Burgers / Chicken Barbecue Coffee / Tea Houses Cafes Pizza Barbecue Barbecue Mexican Mexican Mexican Mexican Deli / Sandwich Bar & Grill / Taphouse Casual Dining Asian / Chinese Seafood Microbreweries Mexican Burgers / Chicken Coffee / Tea Houses
MAP # 5 1 5 1 2 16 14,16 3,5,13 13 14, 15, 16 1 6,16 1 2 ,5, 8, 13 16 1,2,8 5, 15 1 5 5 13 2 1 5 13 14 1 6,13,15 10 9 3 8 1 1 12, 14 13 1 11 13 2 2 3 5 2 1 12 5 3,13 13 2,6,12,13 16 2,3 2 9 2,3 2 2 9,12 1 1 1 11 5 9,2 6 8,11,12,13 12 1 10 12 2,14 3, 6, 8 3 3 13 2 2 2 4 6 2 1 4,6 12 5 13 2 [22] 6, 13 11 5 13 16 13 2,3,6,13 3,5,13 6 5 1 1 1 3 1 1 14 13 2 2 1 1 9 6 2 9 5 6 1,6 7 4 5,11 8 11 13 3,5,6,15 12 2,5 14 14 3,5,8,11,14 8
Guide Index_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Layout 1 11/30/21 8:33 AM Page 39
RESTAURANT Flamingo Lounge Flanagan's Ale House Fleur de Tea Flo’s House of Soul Flora Kitchenette Floyd County Brewing Co. Foko Fork & Barrel Forty Acres & A Mule Restaurant Four Kings Café Four Pegs Beer Lounge Franco's Restaurant Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot Frank's Meat & Produce Fresco Tea Bar Fresh Out the Box Frontier Diner Fry Daddy's Fuji Asian Bistro Fuji Japanese Steakhouse Full Stop Filling Station Fun Food Kitchen & Deli Fun Tea Funmi's African Restaurant Galan's Meat Market & Deli Galan's Meat Market & Grille Galaxie Gallant Fox Brewing Galley at Goodwood Game Gander, An American Grill Garage Bar Garden Girl Foods Gaslight Diner Gasthaus Gatsby's On Fourth Gelato Gilberto Georgia's Sweet Potato Pie Co. Geraldine's Kitchen Germantown Social Gerstle's Place Gertie's Whiskey Bar Get It On a Bun at Booty's Gigi's Cupcakes Ginza Asian Bistro Gogi 1055 Korean BBQ Gold Bar Golden Buddha Golden Corral Golden Gate Donuts Golden Star Chinese Goose Creek Diner Gordon Biersch Brewery Gralehaus Granville Inn Grape Leaf Grassa Gramma Gravely Brewing Co. Great American Grill Great Flood Brewing Co. Great Wall Great Wok Green District Salads Grind Burger Kitchen Guaca Mole Gustavo's Mexican Grill Guy Fieri's Smokehouse H. M. Frank's Habana Blues Tapas Hammerheads Happy China Happy Dragon Harbor and Hops Harley’s Hardwoodz Bar-B-Q Harrods Creek Tavern Harry's Taphouse & Kitchen Harvey’s Cheese Havana Bakery Café Havana Rumba Havana Rumba & Tapas Heart & Soy Heine Brothers' Coffee Heirloom Chef’s Table Heitzman Bakery & Deli Hell or High Water Hibachi Buffet Hibachi Sushi Buffet Hideout Pizzaria Hi-Five Doughnuts Highland Morning Highlands Taproom Grill Highview Ice Cream & Coffee Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar Hill Street Fish Fry Hillcrest Tavern Hilltop Tavern Hitching Post Inn Hi-Wire Brewing Holy Grale Holy Smokes Bar-B-Que Home Run Burgers Homemade Pie Kitchen Hometown Brewing Co. Hometown Pizza Honest Indian Honey Crème Donut Shop Honeybaked Café Hong Kong Fast Food Hooked on Frankfort Hoops Grill and Sports Bar Hooters Hoss Boss Wings & Ribs' Hot Box Eatery Howl at the Moon Huge Impact Restaurant Hungry Pelican Hyderabad House Louisville I Love Tacos IHOP Imanka Restaurant In Season Indi's Restaurant Insomnia Cookies International Tap House Irish Rover Iroquois Pizza Israel’s Delicias de Mexico Gourmet J. Alexander's Redlands Grill J. Graham's Café J. Gumbo's
PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 58 58 73 57 50 60 70 43 57 56 47 57 54 55 73 64 56 57 63 63 50 57 73 61 55 65 47 60 54 51 51 44 50 56 66 51 72 72 56 51 58 58 48 72 63 64 58 62 57 72 62 56 60 47 58 68 66 60 58 60 62 62 51 48 70 70 54 47 65 44 62 62 58 54 51 58 55 65 65 65 63 73 42 72 58 62 62 53 72 50 58 73 63 46 58 58 58 60 44 54 48 72 60 53 67 72 55 62 46 58 48 48 50 60 44 46 67 68 51 61 51 48 72 58 66 53 70 43 50 64
MAP #
Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 8 Southern / Soul Food 9 Cafes 2 Microbreweries 14 Mexican 1 Upscale Casual 2 Southern / Soul Food 13 Diner / Home Style 4 Gastropub 13 Southern / Soul Food 12 Barbecue 3 Deli / Sandwich 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 14, 16 Asian / Korean 1 Diner / Home Style 12 Southern / Soul Food 2, 15 Asian / Japanese 12 Asian / Japanese 8 Cafes 1 Southern / Soul Food 8 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 African 4 Deli / Sandwich 9 Cuban / Caribbean 9 Gastropub 1 Microbreweries 2 Barbecue 1 Casual Dining 2 Casual Dining 5 Bistro / New American 1 Cafés 1 Diner / Home Style 6 European / German 7 Casual Dining 1 Desserts / Bakery 2, 8 Desserts / Bakery 2 Diner / Home Style 16 Casual Dining 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Burgers / Chicken 14 Desserts / Bakery 6 Asian / Japanese 5 Asian / Korean 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Asian / Chinese 13 Cafeterias / Buffet 15 Desserts / Bakery 13 Asian / Chinese 13 Diner / Home Style 8 Microbreweries 1 Gastropub 2 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 European / Italian 7 Microbreweries 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Microbreweries 2,5 Asian / Chinese 2 Asian / Chinese 13 Casual Dining 1, 2, 3, 5 Burgers / Chicken 1 Mexican 5 Mexican 5, 8,10 Barbecue 1 Gastropub 16 Cuban / Caribbean 14 Bistro / New American 1 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 6 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Barbecue 16 Casual Dining 10 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Deli / Sandwich 1 Cuban / Caribbean 11 Cuban / Caribbean 5 Cuban / Caribbean 2 Asian / Japanese 2 Coffee / Tea Houses [17] Fine Dinning 8 Desserts / Bakery 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 13 Pizza 12 Desserts / Bakery 1 Cafes 2,3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 11 Asian / Japanese 5 Seafood 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 Microbreweries 2 2 Bistro / New American Barbecue 13 Burgers / Chicken 5,6,13 Desserts / Bakery [6] Microbreweries 13 Pizza 6,7,11,13 Indian 6 Desserts / Bakery 14 Deli / Sandwich 3,11,14 Asian / Chinese 13 Seafood 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Burgers / Chicken 3,13,12,15,16 Burgers / Chicken 6 Cafes 1 Entertainment Dining 1 Bistro / New American 1 Seafood 11 Indian 5 Latin American 2, 6, 8 Casual Dining 6,15 African 1 Casual Dining 1 Burgers / Chicken [8] Desserts / Bakery 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 European / Irish 2 Pizza 13 Mexican 14 Upscale Casual 3 Cafes 1 Cajun / Creole 2,6
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 39
Guide Index_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Layout 1 11/30/21 8:33 AM Page 40
RESTAURANT
J. Harrod's Jack Binion's Steakhouse Jack Fry's Jade Palace Jaggers Restaurant Jake & Elwood's Jasmin Bakery Jasmine Jasmine Asian Bistro Jason's Deli Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse Jeff's Donuts Jersey Mike's Subs Jerusalem Kitchen Jets Pizza Jimmy John's Joe Huber Restaurant Joella's Hot Chicken Joely's Bar & Grill Joe's Crab Shack Joe's Older than Dirt John O'Bryan's Tavern Joy Luck Jucy's Smokehouse JujuBe at La Que Jumbo Buffet Juno Japanese JW Café & Bakery Kabuki Kansai Japanese Steakhouse Karem's Kashmir Indian Kathmandu Kitchen and Bar Kayrouz Café Kern's Korner Khalil's Kim & Bab King Donut King Donuts KingFish King's Fried Chicken Kolkin Coffee Koreana II L & J Asian Cuisine La Bamba La Bodeguita de Mima La Bodeguita Del Medio La Catrina Mexican Kitchen La Chandeleur La Chapinlandia La Chasse La Guanaquita La Lupita La Maison Aux Crepes La Pana Bakery La Popular La Riviera Maya La Rosita Taqueria La Sierra La Suerte La Torta Loca La Tropicana Lady Tron's Las Cazuelas Las Gorditas Las Margaritas Mexican Restaurant Le Moo LeAnn's Home Made Cheesecakes Leaven Bakery Lee's Korean Legacy Pizza & Bakery Legend Crab Seafood House Legends Café Lemongrass Restaurant Lenny's Sub Shop Levee Bourbon Lounge Liège & Dairy Ice Cream + Waffles Lil' Wagners Limòn y Sal Lindsay's Kitchen Ling Ling Little Caesar's Pizza Little Greek Fresh Grill Liu's Garden Logan's Roadhouse Longhorn Steakhouse Lonnie's Best Taste Of Chicago Los Aztecas Lotsa Pasta Lou Lou Food + Drink Louie's Hot Chicken & Barbecue Louisville Cream Louisville International Pub Louisville Tea Co. Louvino Lucky Burrito Lucky Leopard Pizza Lucretia's Kitchen Lueberry Acai & Superfoods Luigi's Luna's Rotisserie M&M BBQ Ma Zerella's Mack Bros BBQ Mac's @ Mile Wide Main Eatery Main Event Bar & Grill Maira Mediterranean Grill Mai's Thai Restaurant Malone's Mango's Bar & Grill Manhattan Grill Maple Street Biscuit Company Marco's Pizza Mark T's Slabhouse Marketplace Restaurant Mark's Feed Store Martini Itialian Bistro Martin's Bar-B-Que Joint Masa Japanese Masala Grill Matt Winn Steakhouse Mattie's Kitchen Mayan Café McAlister's Deli Melba's Culinary Canvas Melting Pot Mercato Italiano Merle's Whiskey Kitchen Mesa
PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 43 47 42 62 48 53 72 62 62 55 47 72 55 68 53 55 60 48 70 46 51 58 62 54 62 62 63 50 63 63 51 68 68 50 58 58 64 72 72 46 48 73 64 63 70 65 68 70 44 70 42 68 70 72 72 70 70 70 70 68 70 70 55 70 70 70 47 72 72 64 53 46 58 64 55 43 72 56 70 56 62 53 68 62 47 47 55 70 55 44 54 72 58 73 44 70 53 57 72 53 70 54 53 54 53 56 60 68 64 47 70 56 51 53 54 43 54 66 54 63 68 47 57 70 56 43 43 66 44 60
MAP #
Upscale Casual 10 Steakhouse 14 Fine Dining 2 Asian / Chinese 5 Burgers / Chicken 3 Pizza 2 Desserts / Bakery 4 Asian / Chinese 5 Asian / Chinese 7 Deli / Sandwich 3,5 Steakhouse 1 Desserts / Bakery 3, 14 Deli / Sandwich 2, 5,6,8 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Pizza 2,3,5,8,11 Deli / Sandwich [11] Entertainment Dining 14 Burgers / Chicken 3,5, 15 Mexican 2 Seafood 1 Casual Dining 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Asian / Chinese 2,8 Barbecue 5 Asian / Chinese 2 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Japanese 8, 13 Cafes 5 Asian / Japanese 16 Asian / Japanese 6,15 Casual Dining 8 Indian 2 Indian 4 Cafes 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Asian / Korean 14 Desserts / Bakery 13 Desserts / Bakery 5 Seafood 7,16 Burgers / Chicken 9 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Asian / Korean 13 Asian / Japanese 10 Mexican 2 Cuban / Caribbean 1 Latin American 11 Mexican 14 Bistro / New American 13 Mexican 13 Fine Dining 2 Latin American 13 Mexican 15 Desserts / Bakery 1 Desserts / Bakery 1 Mexican 13 Mexican 13 Mexican 5,13 Mexican 11 Latin American 2 Mexican 13 Mexican 13 Deli / Sandwich 14 Mexican 13 Mexican 11 Mexican 5, 13 Steakhouse 2 Desserts / Bakery 1 Desserts / Bakery 14 Asian / Korean 13 Pizza 14 Seafood 4 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Asian / Vietnamese 4,5 Deli / Sandwich 4 Upscale Casual 7 Desserts / Bakery 7 Diner / Home Style 13 Mexican 8 Diner / Home Style 12 Asian / Chinese 5 Pizza [10] Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3 Asian / Chinese 5 Steakhouse 6,12 Steakhouse 6,8,13,15 Deli / Sandwich 2 Mexican 5,10 Deli / Sandwich 3 Bistro / New American 3 Barbecue 1,13 Desserts / Bakery 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 5 Bistro / New American 2,5 Mexican 2 Pizza 2 Southern / Soul Food 9 Desserts / Bakery 1 Pizza 1 Mexican 13 Barbecue 13 Pizza 15 Barbecue 9 Pizza 1 Deli / Sandwich 1 Entertainment Dining 6 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3 Asian / Thai 16 Steakhouse 8 Mexican 11 Deli / Sandwich 1 Casual Dining 2 Pizza 14 Barbecue 13 Upscale Casual 1 Barbecue 2,5,11,12,14 European / Italian 8 Barbecue 8 Asian / Japanese 5 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Steakhouse 13 Southern / Soul Food 9 Mexican 1 Deli / Sandwich [11] Upscale Casual 1 Upscale Casual 6 European / Italian 8 Bistro / New American 1 Entertainment Dining 14
40 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
RESTAURANT
PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE
Mesh 43 Metro Diner 57 Mexa Tacos 70 Mexico City Tacqueria and Restaurant 70 MG's Prime Time Café 58 Mi Bonito Pinotepa 71 Mi Casita Parrilla Mexicana 71 Mi Sueño 65 Mi Tierra Mexican Restaurant 71 Mickey's 73 Mike Linnig's 46 Milano Italian Restaurant 66 Milantoni Italian Restaurant 66 Million's Crab 46 Mimo's Pizzeria 53 Mirage Mediterranean Restaurant 68 Misawa Hibachi & Sushi 63 Mission BBQ 54 Mitchell's Fish Market 46 Moe's Southwest Grill 71 Mojito in Havana 65 Mojito Tapas Restaurant 67 Molly Malone's 66 Momma's Mustard, Pickles & BBQ 54 Monnik Beer Co. 60 More Shenanigan's 66 Morning Fork 51 Morris Deli & Catering 56 Morton's Of Chicago 47 Moya's American Kitchen 51 Mozza Pi 53 Mr. Gatti's 53 Mt. Fuji 63 Mussel & Burger Bar 48 My Favorite Muffin 72 My Old KY Dinner Train 60 Naïve 51 NamNam Café 64 Napa River Grill 43 Neighborhood Services 44 Neil & Patty's Fireside Grill 58 New Albanian Brewing Co. 53 New Direction Bar & Grill 58 New Wave Burritos 71 Noche Mexican BBQ 71 Noodles & Company 52 Noosh Nosh 44 Nord's Bakery 72 North Lime Donuts 72 Nouvelle Bar & Bottle 44 Ntaba Coffee Haus 73 O'Charley's 52 O'Connell's Irish Pub 66 O'Dolly's 57 Off the Rails Tasting Room 44 Oishii Sushi 63 Old Hickory Inn 58 Old Louisville Tavern 58 Old School NY Pizza 53 Old Spaghetti Factory 66 Olé Frijole 71 O-Line Sports Grill 58 Olive Garden 66 Ollie's Trolley 48 Onion Restaurant & Tea House 62 Open Caribbean Kitchen 65 Orange Clover Kitchen 50 Oriental Café 62 Oriental House 62 Oriental Star 62 Original Impellizzeri's 53 Osaka Sushi Bar 63 O'Shea's Irish Pub 66 Oskar's Slider Bar 48 Ostra 44 Our Lady of Perpetual Hops 60 Outback Steakhouse 47 OvrDrive Games 60 P.F. Chang's China Bistro 45 Panchitos Ice Cream 72 Panda Express 62 Panera Bread Co. 56 Papa Murphy's Pizza 53 Paris Banh Mi & Bakery 72 Parlour Pizza 53 Parnelli's Chicago Eatery 56 Pasha's Mediterranean 68 Passtime Fish House 46 Patrick O'Shea's 66 Pat's Steak House 47 Paul's Fruit Market 56 Payne Street Bakehouse 56 Pearl Street Game & Coffee House 73 Pearl Street Taphouse 58 Pearl Street Treats 72 Peking City Express 62 Penn Station 56 Penny and Pearl's Bakeshop 72 Phantom Cafe Modern Eatery 45 Philly's Best Frozen Desserts 72 Pho Ba Luu 64 Pho Café 64 Pho Phi 64 Pier 17 Cajun Seafood 46 Pin + Proof 61 Piña Fiesta Mexican Grill 71 Pints&Union 59 Pizza Donisi 53 Pizza King 53 Pizza Lupo 53 Pizza Place 53 Pizzaville 53 Please & Thank You 73 Plehn's Bakery 72 PokeHana 63 Polly Freeze 72 Porch Kitchen & Bar 59 Porcini 66 Porkland BBQ 54 Portage House 52 Potbelly Sandwhich Shop 56 Po-Z's Kitchen 57 Pregame Coffee 73 Primo's Pizzeria 53 Proof On Main 44 Public House by Against The Grain 60 Puerto Vallarta 71 Pure Blendz 50 Purrfect Day Cat Café 50 Qdoba Mexican Grill 71
MAP #
Upscale Casual 3 Diner / Home Style 11 Mexican 3 Mexican 16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Mexican 13 Mexican 1 Cuban / Caribbean 4 Mexican 5,7 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Seafood 12 European / Italian 8 European / Italian 6 Seafood 3, 5 Pizza 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Asian / Japanese 11 Barbecue 3,15 Seafood 8 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,6,8,11 Cuban / Caribbean 3 European / Spanish 7 European / Irish 2 Barbecue 3,5 Microbreweries 13, 14 European / Irish 4 Casual Dining 2 Deli / Sandwich 2 Steakhouse 1 Casual Dining 6 Pizza 2, 5 Pizza 12,13,15 Asian / Japanese 13 Burgers / Chicken 1,6 Desserts / Bakery 5 Entertainment Dining 13 Casual Dining 2 Asian / Vietnamese 3 Upscale Casual 5 Bistro / New American 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Pizza 14 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 Mexican 13 Mexican 2 Casual Dining 6,8,13 Bistro / New American 7 Desserts / Bakery 13 Desserts / Bakery 13 Bistro / New American 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Casual Dining 3,6,12 European / Irish 11 Diner / Home Style 13 Bistro / New American 4 Asian / Japanese 4 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Pizza 5,8 European / Italian 1 Mexican 11 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 8 European / Italian 6,8,11,15 Burgers / Chicken 1 Asian / Chinese 14 Cuban / Caribbean 13 Cafes 16 Asian / Chinese 4 Asian / Chinese 3 Asian / Chinese 13 Pizza 2,5,10 Asian / Japanese 1,2 European / Irish 2 Burgers / Chicken 13 Bistro / New American 2 Microbreweries 14 Steakhouse 8,11,13,15 Entertainment Dining 1 Bistro / New American 5 Desserts / Bakery 2,13 Asian / Chinese 5,6,8,15 Deli / Sandwich [10] Pizza [8] Desserts / Bakery 2 Pizza 1, 2, 14, 16 Deli / Sandwich 16 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 4 Seafood 6 European / Irish 1 Steakhouse 2 Deli / Sandwich 3,4,5,7 Deli / Sandwich 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Desserts / Bakery 16 Asian / Chinese 3 Deli / Sandwich [17] Desserts / Bakery 3 Bistro / New American 2 Desserts / Bakery 3 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Asian / Vietnamese 3 Asian / Vietnamese 3 Seafood 6, 12 Entertainment Dining 1 Mexican 12 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Pizza 13 Pizza 14,16 Pizza 2 Pizza 4 Pizza 8 Coffee / Tea Houses 1,2,10 Desserts / Bakery 3 Asian / Japanese 1 Desserts / Bakery 14 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 European / Italian 2 Barbecue 1 Casual Dining 16 Deli / Sandwich 1,6,8 Southern / Soul Food 12 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 Pizza 6 Upscale Casual 1 Microbreweries 2 Mexican 11,14,16 Cafes 1 Cafes 2 Mexican [17]
RESTAURANT
Queen of Sheba Quill's Coffee Quizno's Subs Rafferty's of Louisville Railbirds Hot Chicken Raising Cane's Ramen House Ramiro's Cantina Ramiro's Cantina Express Ramsi's Café Rawnaissance Desserts Recbar Red Hog Red Hot Roasters Red Lobster Red Robin Red Sun Chinese Restaurant Red Top Gourmet Hot Dogs Red Yeti Brewing Co. Repeal Oak-Fired Steakhouse Rice Bowl Rice Box Ricky B's Club Café Riot Cafe River City Drafthouse River House Restaurant River Road BBQ ROC Restaurant Roof Top Grill Roosters Rootie's Sports Bar Roots Royal's Hot Chicken Rubbie's Southside Grill Rubbin' Butts BBQ Rumors Raw Oyster Bar Ruth's Chris Steakhouse Sabor Latino Safai Coffee Safier Mediterranean Deli Saint's Sake Blue Sakura Blue Sala Thai Sal's Pizza & Wings Salsarita's Fresh Cantina Sam's Food & Spirits Sam's Gyro Sam's Seafood & Grill Samurai Sante Fe Grill Sapporo Japanese Grill Sarang Sarino Scene Schlotzky's Deli Scooter's Coffee Scooter's Triple B's Seafood Lady Seeds & Greens Deli Selena's At Willow Lake Tavern Senegambia African Restaurant Señor Iguana's Senora Arepa Sergio's World Beers Seviche A Latin Restaurant Shack In The Back BBQ Shady Lane Café Shahar Café Shalimar Indian Shark's Seafood Shenanigan's Irish Grille Sherrilli's Pizza Parlor Shippingport Brewing Co. Shiraz Mediterranean Grill Shirley Mae's Café Shogun Shoney's ShopBar Shreeji Indian Vegetarian Sichuan Garden Sicilian Pizza & Pasta Sidebar Silvio's Italian Restaurant Simply Thai Sinclair Smoked Salmon Sister Bean's Six Forks Burger Co. Skyline Chili Smashburger Smokey Bones BBQ SnoWhat Sol Aztecas Somewhere Louisville Sonal's Kitchen Soul Food Dining Soupy's Southern Express Southern Hospitality Spaghetti Shop Spinelli's Pizzeria Square Cut Pizza and Sugar Room Star Sushi Starbucks Coffee Starlight Café Starlight Coffee Co. Steak & Bourbon Steak 'n Shake Stevens & Stevens Deli Stoney River Storming Crab Sub Station II Sue's Touch of Country Sugar & Spice Donut Shop Sunergos Coffee SuperChefs Sushi Master Sway Sweet Peaches Sweet Stuff Bakery Sweet Surrender Sweets By Morgan Swizzle Syrian Grill Abu Abdu Taco Choza Taco City Louisville Taco Tico Taj Palace Tandoori Fusion TanThai Restaurant
PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 61 73 56 52 48 48 63 71 71 50 73 59 50 73 46 48 62 48 60 47 64 62 44 50 59 44 54 66 65 48 59 63 48 54 54 46 47 69 73 68 59 63 63 64 53 71 52 68 46 63 71 63 64 66 44 56 73 59 64 56 64 61 71 69 59 42 54 50 50 68 46 66 53 60 68 57 63 52 59 68 62 53 45 67 64 46 73 49 52 49 54 73 71 45 68 57 56 57 57 67 53 53 63 73 50 73 47 49 56 47 64 56 57 73 73 52 63 44 56 73 73 73 42 68 71 71 71 68 68 64
MAP #
African 4 Coffee / Tea Houses 1,2,3,13 Deli / Sandwich 14 Casual Dining 3 Burgers / Chicken 13 Burgers / Chicken 2,6,8,11,12 Asian / Japanese 2 Mexican 2 Mexican 16 Cafes 2, 8 Desserts / Bakery 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6,14 Cafes 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Seafood 3,13,15 Burgers / Chicken 3,8,15 Asian / Chinese 4 Burgers / Chicken 1 Microbreweries 16 Steakhouse 1 Asian / Korean 14 Asian / Chinese 13 Upscale Casual 2 Cafes 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Upscale Casual 7 Barbecue 7 European / Italian 2 Cuban / Caribbean 1 Burgers / Chicken 5,8,11,12,13,15 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 8 Asian / Japanese 2 Burgers / Chicken 1,5 Barbecue 13 Barbecue 14 Seafood 5 Steakhouse 3 Latin American 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse Asian / Japanese 11 Asian / Japanese 3 Asian / Thai 11 Pizza 5 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,5 Casual Dining 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Seafood 13 Asian / Japanese 5 Mexican 13 Asian / Japanese 2 Asian / Korean 2 European / Italian 13 Upscale Casual 1 Deli / Sandwich 8 Coffee / Tea Houses 5, 12 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6 Cajun / Creole 1,13 Deli / Sandwich 14 Cajun / Creole 5 African 4 Mexican 11,13,15 Latin American 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Fine Dining 2 Barbecue 13 Cafes 7 Cafes 2 Indian 6 Seafood 4 European / Irish 2 Pizza 15 Microbreweries 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2,5,7,8,13 Southern / Soul Food 1 Asian / Japanese 6 Casual Dining 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Indian 6 Asian / Chinese 6 Pizza 1,11 Bistro / New American 1 European / Italian 3 Asian / Thai 3,5 Seafood 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 13 Burgers / Chicken 13 Casual Dining 2,3,6,14 Burgers / Chicken 1,5,13 Barbecue 6 Desserts / Bakery 13 Mexican 2,11 Bistro / New American 2 Indian 8 Southern / Soul Food 13 Deli / Sandwich 4 Southern / Soul Food 13 Southern / Soul Food 9 European / Italian 14 Pizza 2,3 Pizza 1 Asian / Japanese 16 Coffee / Tea Houses [36] Cafes 14 Coffee / Tea Houses 14, 15 Steakhouse 5 Burgers / Chicken 13,15 Deli / Sandwich 2 Steakhouse 8 Cajun / Creole 11, 15 Deli / Sandwich 13 Southern / Soul Food 12 Desserts / Bakery 11 Coffee / Tea Houses 1, 2, 13 Casual Dining 2 Asian / Japanese 8 Upscale Casual 1 Deli / Sandwich 9 Desserts / Bakery 14 Desserts / Bakery 2 Desserts / Bakery 16 Fine Dining 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 4 Mexican 3 Mexican 2, 5 Mexican 12 Indian 8 Indian 8 Asian / Thai 14
Guide Index_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Layout 1 11/30/21 8:33 AM Page 41
RESTAURANT
Taqueria Don Juan Taqueria La Mexicana Taqueria Los Gorditos Tavern On Fourth Taylor's Cajun Meat Co. Taziki's Mediterranean Cafe Tea Station Chinese Bistro TEN20 Craft Brewery Terri Lynn's Cafe and Catering Texas Roadhouse TGI Friday's Tha Drippin Crab Thai Café Thai Noodles The Ainsworth The B.A. Colonial The Back Door The Bard's Town The Bayou The Black Italian The Black Jockey's Lounge The Block Gourmet Deli The Café The Champagnery The Cheddar Box The Cheddar Box Too The Chicken Box The ChillBurger The Coffee Boxx The Coffee Zone The Corner The Eagle The Earl The Fat Lamb The Fishery The Fuelery The Goat The Grain Haus The Hub Louisville The Library The Manhattan Project The NuLu Sundae Club The Palm Room The Peach Cobbler Factory The Pearl The Pine Room The Post The Raven The Salad Chic The Silly Axe Café The Silver Dollar The Sports & Social Club The Standard Plate & Pour The Starving Artist Café The Table The Water Company The Wing Zone Thelma's Deli Thirsty Hound Sports Bar Three Brothers Tikka House Tim Tam Tavern Time 4 Thai Tin Roof Tino's Tacos Toast on Market Toasty's Tavern ToGo Sushi Tokyo Japanese Tomo Japanese Restaurant Toonerville Deli Top Hat Café Topp't Pizza & Chopped Salad Torchy's Tacos Torino's Sandwich Bar Town Trifecta Troll Pub Under The Bridge Tsubaki Sushi & Bar Tucker's Tumbleweed Tuscany Italian Restaurant Twig & Leaf Union 15 Union Restaurant & GameYard Upland Brewing Co. Uptown Café Vallarta Mexican Seafood and Grill Varanese V-Grits Vibes Restaurant & Ultra Lounge Vic's Café Victoria Mexican Restaurant Vietnam Kitchen Village Anchor Pub & Roost Ville Chicken and Seafood Vinaigrette Salad Kitchen Vincenzo's Volare W.W. Cousin's Wagner's Pharmacy Walker's Exchange WayCool Café Week-End Burgers West 6th NuLu Which Wich? Whiskey Dry Wick's Pizza Wild Eggs Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion Wild Hops Bourbon Bar & Lounge Williams Bakery Wiltshire at the Speed Wiltshire On Market Wiltshire Pantry Bakery and Café Wingstop Wologisi Restaurant World of Beer Yamato Japanese Steak House Yang Kee Noodle Yellow Cactus Yen Ching Yoki Buffet Yummy Pollo Zanzabar Za's Pizza Zaxby's Zeggz Amazing Eggs Ziba's Bistro Zoe's Kitchen Zombie Taco
PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 71 71 71 59 65 68 62 60 50 47 52 46 64 64 44 52 59 61 65 67 57 56 50 45 50 50 49 49 73 73 53 49 59 45 46 52 59 53 45 59 47 73 59 73 59 45 53 66 56 50 45 59 48 50 50 59 49 56 59 46 68 59 64 59 71 52 59 63 64 64 56 50 53 71 56 67 52 59 64 52 71 67 52 53 59 60 44 71 44 57 57 50 71 64 45 46 56 42 67 49 57 44 50 49 60 56 49 53 50 64 60 73 45 44 50 49 61 48 64 62 71 62 62 69 60 53 49 51 61 68 71
MAP #
Mexican 16 Mexican 13 Mexican 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Cajun / Creole 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3,5 Asian / Chinese 8 Microbreweries 2 Cafes 14 Steakhouse 2,5,12,13,15 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 9 Asian / Thai 7 Asian / Thai 13 Upscale Casual 3 Casual Dining 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Entertainment Dining 2 Cajun / Creole 1 European / Italian 2 Southern / Soul Food 1 Deli / Sandwich 5 Cafes 1 Bistro / New American 2 Cafes 3 Cafes 3 Burgers / Chicken 12 Burgers / Chicken 15 Coffee / Tea Houses 9 Coffee / Tea Houses 5 Pizza 8 Burgers / Chicken 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Bistro / New American 2 Seafood 11 Casual Dining 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 Pizza 14 Bistro / New American 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Gastropub 2 Desserts / Bakery 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 9 Desserts / Bakery 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Bistro / New American 10 Pizza 13 European / Irish 3 Deli / Sandwich 1 Cafes 2 Bistro / New American 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Gastropub 14 Cafes 5 Cafes 9 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Burgers / Chicken 4,13 Deli / Sandwich 1 11 Bar & Grill / Taphouse Seafood 9 Indian 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Asian / Thai 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Mexican 13 Casual Dining 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Asian / Japanese 5 Asian / Japanese 7 Asian / Japanese 14 Deli / Sandwich 1 Cafes 1 Pizza 14 Mexican 15 Deli / Sandwich 1 European / Italian 16 Casual Dining 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Asian / Japanese 5 Casual Dining 14 Southwest / Tex Mex [8] European / Italian 13 Casual Dining 2 Pizza 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Microbreweries 16 Upscale Casual 2 Mexican 6 Upscale Casual 2 Southern / Soul Food 2 Southern / Soul Food 1 Cafes 14 Mexican 4 Asian / Vietnamese 13 Bistro / New American 5 Seafood 13 Deli / Sandwich 5 Fine Dining 1 European / Italian 2 Burgers / Chicken 3, 12 Diner / Home Style 13 Upscale Casual 1 Cafes 1 Burgers / Chicken 13 Microbreweries 1 Deli / Sandwich 6,8,14 Burgers / Chicken 1 Pizza 2,4,6 Cafes 1,3,5,15 Asian / Japanese 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Desserts / Bakery 15 Bistro / New American 13 Upscale Casual 1 Cafes 1, 2, 8 Burgers / Chicken 6,12 African 4 Gastropub 8 Asian / Japanese 14 Asian / Chinese 5 Mexican 14 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 6 Latin American 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Pizza 2 Burgers / Chicken 5,12,13,14,16 Cafes 5 African 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 8 Mexican 1
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 41
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:25 AM Page 42
GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price: $$$$ $$$$ $$$$ $$$$
under $8 = $9 - $14 = $15 - $20 = $21 & up =
B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D
p
= Dinner
Bar = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser
f
= Full
ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE, KY (unless noted otherwise) All phone numbers in KENTUCKY use area code 502 All phone numbers in INDIANA use area code 812
211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 8969570. 211 Clover Lane has been tucked away across the railroad tracks in St. Matthews, in the corner of a little cluster of upscale shops since 1992. Those who know how to find it enjoy drinks in a quiet elegant lounge and dine off seasonal menus. Owner Andrew Smith and his staff keep 211 Clover Lane among the town’s top tables. $$$$ D pf 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Since taking over this Old Louisville landmark restaurant in 2004, Edward Lee has become a Food TV fixture and opened several new restaurants. Jeff Potteris the Executive Chef at this perennial top table and continues the adventurous prix-fixe menu. $$$$ D pf BARN8 10500 W. US Hwy 42, 398-9289. The newest project of Laura Lee Brown and Steve Wilson is to develop their Hermitage Farm as an agro-tourism destination. Building number 8 of the historic thoroughbred stable (where Dark Star, who defeated Northern Dancer in the 1953, was foaled) is now a restaurant open to the public. Diners can choose to dine at private tables (in the stalls) or rent the Hayloft for parties up to 200. Executive Chef Alison Settle’s eclectic menu features heirloom, local and seasonal ingredients drawn heavily from the farm’s extensive gardens. $$$$ D pf BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant and understated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower Apartments is overseen by Chef Allen Sims, who has kept long-standing favorites like the crispy fish and spicy Cantonese noodles but has put his own stamp on the menu with items like fried chicunion 15ken livers, beet and pear salad, west sixthshort ribs Wellington and prosciutto-wrapped lamb chops. Rick Bartlett continues his long tenure at the piano during dinner. $$$ L D pf ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. Executive Chef James Adams oversees the formal dining room in one of downtown’s historic hotels. The Hot Brown is still on the menu, but new dishes tempt visitors and old timers: roasted cauliflower with quinoa and mushrooms, crispy skin duck and a vegetarian harvest plate. The chef’s table in the kitchen is still a great place for a special party. $$$ D p EVERYDAY KITCHEN 552 E. Market St. (Gateway to NuLu building), 805-7345. Mike Wajda, formerly of Proof on Main, and Tim Quinlan of Harvest, are in the kitchen of this “modern comfort food restaurant.” The menu 42 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
includes a Chesapeake cream of broccoli soup with crab toast, Farmer Joe's Pastrami beef belly with rye cavatelli, and a rotating "roast beast of the day" highlighting local farmer meats and in-house rotisserie. $$$ Br D p f HEIRLOOM CHEF’S TABLE 9448 Norton Commons Blvd., 822-1184. There are only 6 tables at this suburban outlet for United Catering. Chef Ryan Smith creates multicourse meals for small groups, emphasizing foods from local purveyors. $$$$ D p JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Inside its unprepossessing exterior is one of Louisville’s longestrunning top tables. Seating is tight but the food is consistently excellent. Chef Duncan Williams has continued classic menu items that regulars love (crab cakes, shrimp and grits) and worked in newer items (braised pork shank, squash risotto). $$$$ L D p LA CHASSE 1359 Bardstown Rd., 822-3963. Font-of-thehouse man Isaac Fox creates the ambience of a fine European country inn in the heart of the Highlands. The frequently-changing menu, overseen by Chef Alex Dulaney, fuses the tastes and techniques of Southern France and Northern Spain. $$$$ D p SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers an eclectic range of Latin American dishes in addition to its namesake, the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices. Continuing to get notice throughout the Southeast for his imaginative cooking, he is setting a standard of cool for the Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ D pf SWIZZLE 140 N. Fourth St. (The Galt House), 252-2500. The Galt House replaces Rivue, its 25th floor restaurant, with Swizzle, a retro-meets-modern redesigned room with a menu focused on steaks, chops and sustainable seafood served up from the open-concept exhibition kitchen in the middle of the restaurant, allowing diners to watch the action. The retro beverage program will focus on classic cocktails, with seasonal specials. $$$$ D p VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ L D pf
THE 1894 LODGE 409 E. Main St., New Washington IN, 628-9006. Once a Masonic Lodge, and later a schoolhouse and a movie theater, The 1894 Lodge is
making restaurant news since it hired Nick Sullivan, formerly of Corbett’s An American Place, 610 Magnolia and The Oakroom, as chef. Dishes like pork belly shrimp and grits, New York strip, kung pow brussels, pan seared trout and a side of Parmesan truffle fries are luring new diners to this outpost in rural Indiana.$$$ D pf 8UP ELEVATED DRINKERY AND KITCHEN 350 W. Chestnut St. (Hilton Garden Inn), 631-4180. This rooftop restaurant and bar above the hotel at the corner of Fourth and Chestnut has three elegant areas - an upscale casual dining room, the bar with a separate kitchen and menu, and an expansive outdoor patio that overlooks downtown. The bar kitchen’s two wood-fired ovens offer small plates to nibble while sipping; the main kitchen serves fine dinners. $$$ B D pf BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, 228-6962. Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell’s comfortable, casual restaurant in the Prospect Center continues to please regulars and to find new fans. The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ Br D pf BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491. Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Roman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ Br L D pf BRENDON’S CATCH 23 505 S. Fourth St. (Embassy Suites), 909-3323. This restaurant inside Embassy Suites hotel has a strong seafood focus: “wild caught” Hawaiian tuna, king crab, Chilean sea bass, fresh oysters, black grouper, and the famous Brendon’s seafood tower. The setting is a relaxed but elegant atmosphere; other choices include steak and Low Country cuisine. $$$ D p BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 456-1702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant renaissance, Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now, with three venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger. $$ Br L D pf CHARR’D BOURBON KITCHEN & LOUNGE 1903 Embassy Square Blvd. (Marriott Louisville East), 4911184. The J’town Marriott Hotel’s restaurant is on the Urban Bourbon Trail. Chef Raquel Romero’s eclectic menu offers Kentucky burgoo, Kentucky Kobb salad and several dishes (Buffalo Trace Reuben, Makers Mark ribs) that incorporate some of the bar’s 75 offerings of Bourbon. $$$ Br L D p THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd. (Mall St. Matthews), 897-3933. One of 175 outlets of the California-based chain, this popular restaurant maintains a large and diverse menu that entices and satisfies a wide range of diners. Food quality is above average for this kind of restaurant chain, though its namesake cheesecakes are baked in California and North Carolina. $$$ Br L D pf CULTURED CHEESE, CHEERS, AND CHARCUTERIE 1007 E. Main St., 409-8706. Made-to-order charcuterie boards, including some with vegan and vegetarian options. Cheese selections showcase the owner’s family’s Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheese and other mainly local food products. $$ L D p f DECCA 812 E. Market St., 749-8128. Decca’s handsomely re-done 19th-century building, its serene garden, its classy basement bar and breezy second-floor eating balcony are all fun. But Chef Annie Pettry’s inventive, locally-sourced menu combined with the restaurant’s wine program make it a classy place to dine. $$$$ D pf DOC CROW’S 127 W. Main St., 587-1626. Doc Crow’s solidly anchors the dining choices on Whiskey Row.
B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:25 AM Page 43
Oysters from both coasts, raw and fried, fried green tomatoes, pork rinds, shrimp and grits, all served in a handsome renovation of one of Main Street’s classic castiron front buildings. $$ L D p EQUUS & JACK'S RESTAURANT | LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. A Louisville institution since 1985 under the ownership of the late culinary icon Dean Corbett, Jared Matthews now runs both the restaurant and Jack’s Lounge. Matthews has made some physical updates, but has striven to keep the restaurant’s and the lounge’s classic upscale casual atmosphere and approachable menu. The signature mushroom fumé remains, along with satisfying entrées like Yankee pot roast, fried chicken with sawmilll gravy and Parmesancrusted sea bass. $$$ D pf FORK & BARREL 2244 Frankfort Ave., 907-3675. Chef/owner Geoffrey Heyde serves upscale modern American cuisine in upper Clifton, with an emphasis on local ingredients, craft cocktails and southern hospitality. Look for pork shank with roasted garlic grits, buttermilksoaked and cornmeal dusted chicken livers and chocolate bourbon truffles. $$$ D p J. ALEXANDER’S REDLANDS GRILL 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ D p J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. A Prospect mainstay since 1994, J. Harrod’s substantial menu— grilled steaks and chops, pasta, seafood, fried green tomatoes and chicken livers with gravy—is served with aplomb in a quiet, comfortable dining room. Comfort food Sundays and Wednesday Italian Nights brings out special dishes. $$$ D p LEVEE BOURBON LOUNGE 3015 River Rd., 897-5000. John Varanese’s riverside music bar has been redesigned and rebuilt as a Bourbon-centric bar and lounge, with Bourbon barrel tables, sofas and easy chairs in the lounge, artwork and decor made from barrel tops and staves, and, of course, a large, eclectic selection of over 200 Bourbons (and other spirits). Order from the River House menu while you sip: sautéed mussels, grilled octopus, a charcuterie tray or any of the delights on the raw bar. $$ D pf MARKETPLACE RESTAURANT 651 S. Fourth St., 6253001. Going to a show downtown? Chow down first at Marketplace. The elegant decor, whether at the circular bar, in the serene dining room, or any of the three outdoor spaces will get you in the mood, and the seasonal Italian-influenced southern cuisine will get you to the curtain well-fed indeed. $$ L D pf MELBA'S CULINARY CANVAS 430 W. Jefferson St.,6537000. This eclectic downtown restaurant and bakery casts a wide culinary net. For lunch opt for sandwiches, ramen bowls or tacos, pasta dishes or meatloaf. Take home artistic candies, including cute marzipan animals, cakes or artisanal chocolates. $$$ B Br L p MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-4762. If you have pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s, The Melting Pot is for you. If you can melt it and dip things in it, it’s probably on the menu. $$$ D p MESH 3612 Brownsboro Rd., 632-4421. The lush modern building and the casual/elegant menu have made a strong presence in the neighborhood. The cosmopolitan menu includes kung pao calamari, beet salad, Amish chicken and mushroom strudel, all served in an atmosphere of “contemporary elegance and comfort.” $$$ Br L D pf NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 423-5822. An eclectic mix of California-inspired fusion dishes served in a clean, crisp, informally classy atmosphere have made Napa a long-time favorite. Chef Seth Butkus’s lunch offerings range from smoked salmon wontons to Vietnamese salad.
p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining
RED = Advertiser
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 43
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:25 AM Page 44
The lovely patio makes for lazy summer dining on baked goat cheese, vegetable pad Thai or smoked pork shank. $$$ Br L D pf PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St. (21c Hotel), 217-6360. Executive Chef Jonathan Searle has kept the bison burger and the charred octopus, favorites from Proof’s start, even as he has put his own stamp on the menu with dishes such as chicken fried pork cheeks, hearth-roasted spaghetti squash and extensive charcuterie choices. The bar remains one of the hippest in town. $$$ B Br L D pf RICKY B'S CLUB CAFÉ 2901 Brownsboro Rd., 333-0110. This vaguely Moorish-style building that has housed several restaurants over the years is now a supper club run by the well-known pianist Rick Bartlett. His “world fusion” eclectic menu includes short ribs, fettuccine Alfredo, sea bass, “mystical” fries and Bartlett’s signature Bouncin' Back Burger. Bartlett, along with others, will entertain diners. $$$ D p
best seasonal ingredients. Start with the weekly charcuterie board or cheese plate, followed by a seasonal flatbread or salad, and perhaps a pasta dish. Open Thur.Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$ D pf
ALEX&NDER 1121 E. Washington St., 561-0267. Dallas McGarity, owner of The Fat Lamb and Portage House, oversees the menu at the rooftop bar at Copper & Kings Distillery. Dinner is Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays, and brunch and dinner Saturday and Sunday. McGarity’s menu is, in his own words, “elegantly simple without being intimidating, and that can complement the outstanding drinks served in Alex&nder.” $$ Br D pf ANOOSH BISTRO 4864 Brownsboro Rd., 690-6585. Anoosh Shariat’s elegant Brownsboro Center space has an eclectic lunch and dinner menu that includes trout provençal, coconut curry tofu, grilled romaine salad, and house-made pastas and risottos. $$ L D p
RIVER HOUSE RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 3015 River Rd., 897-5000. John Varanese’s river-side restaurant complex is getting more complex as he begins renovations on the upper floor to create new dining and party spaces. The elegant reimagining of the former boat dealership building befits the always interesting seafood dishes inspired by Nawlins and Charleston, where Varanese began his career. There’s an extensive raw bar, too, and dockside service for boaters. $$$$ Br L D pf
BOARD AND YOU BISTRO & WINE BAR 434 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 913-4109. Look for handcrafted cocktails, charcuterie boards with meats and cheeses from around the world, entrées, small plates, salads, soups and house-made desserts such as blueberry pie bar, mascarpone cheesecake and a pots de creme flight. $$$$ B L D pf
SCENE 501 W. Main St., 566-5297. Scene is the latest dining venture in the space at the Kentucky Center for the Arts that has seen a lot of things come and go. Open before shows for drinks and small plate dining served in the fast-casual style. Flatbreads, burgers, pasta dishes, crab cakes; a small but good wine and beer selection and a full bar. $$ D p
BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838. Located in an historic Clifton building, Bourbons Bistro stocks a selection of more than 130 bourbons, including a barrel selection program. Chef Jereme McFarland’s bourbon-inspired, seasonally-influenced menu recently has featured tuna poke tacos, cacio e pepe pasta and bourbon bread pudding. $$$ D pf
SWAY 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 581-1234. The handsome dining room on the entry level of the hotel has a bar that opens to Fourth Street in good weather and a menu based on the “Southern Way,” from whence comes the name Sway. The fried chicken, cooked to order, quickly became a signature dish. $$$$ D pf
BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120. The use of an obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ D p
THE AINSWORTH 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 690-6153. The owners of Sullivan’s in St. Matthews have bought into the Ainsworth chain, a high-concept sports bar redecorated with upscale rustic décor: barn wood walls, leather booths and televisions set in antique picture frames. The fancierthan-usual bar food menu includes a notorious mac & cheese burger and gold-foil dusted chicken wings. $$$ Br Dp f
CUVÉE WINE TABLE 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 242-5200. Scott Harper and others from the Bristol Bar & Grille organization have made this wine bar and café in the East End a fine stop for after work. Drop in to explore Master Sommelier Harper’s adventurous wine list with tasting pours and small plates of charcuterie, cheeses, salads and snacks from the kitchen. Look for regular casual classes organized on various wine themes. $$ L D pf
UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 405-8898. The iconic Highlands restaurant re-opens under new ownership, with an updated kitchen and a renovated interior, but with many of the former kitchen crew and staff (including Chef Matt Weber), with a menu recreating many fan favorites, and some new additions.
DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. This informal Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ L D pf
VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese’s signature restaurant (he has River House and Levee too) has a slate-backed interior waterfall and a folding front wall that opens in good weather. The lively, international seasonal menu is buttressed by frequent special wine, whiskey or beer dinners. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ D pf
EGGS OVER FRANKFORT 2712 Frankfort Ave., 7094452. Husband and wife team Jackson and Cortney Nave have creatively refurbished this Crescent Hill space into a “very traditional” breakfast spot. Its menu includes omelets, eggs Benedict, waffles and oatmeal, as well as salads and sandwiches for lunch. $ B Br L
WALKER’S EXCHANGE 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House Hotel), 272-1834. The Galt House’s Kentucky-style brasserie, located in the West Tower, is styled after a 19thcentury restaurant of the same name. The menu juxtaposes familiar French and American dishes — including classic Southern-style comforts like short rib hand pies and shrimp po-boys. $$$$ B Br L D p WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 589-5224. Understated elegance and creative dishes from Chef Rory O’Connell characterize this NuLu restaurant. The finely crafted small plates menu changes weekly to showcase the
44 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market St., 749-7100. Housed in a former service station in NuLu, Garage Bar serves up draft and bottled craft beers, Bourbons, seasonal cocktails and wine, pizzas from a wood-fired brick oven and Southern specialties, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. The ham flight is not to be missed. $$$ D pf HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. Hammerheads, one of the hippest of Germantown’s restaurants, run by owners Adam Burress and Chase Murcino, serve BBQ beef brisket, pork and lamb ribs, roasted duck sandwiches and soft shell crab tacos. $ Dpf HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd. There are a lot of places to quaff craft beers in town, but Holy Grale’s frequently
changing draft selection is among the most esoteric. Couple that with the seasonally adapted menu of small plates and the oddity of being housed in a renovated church and you have a unique dining and drinking experience. $$ L D HUGE IMPACT RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 208-2887. This home-style restaurant takes over the spot on Fifth and Chestnut that had for decades been Pesto’s. Salads and sandwiches, fried corn on the cob, and daily specials like crab legs, lamb chops, and ribeye with loaded potatoes and greens. $$ Br L D LA CHANDELEUR 304 W. Woodlawn Ave., 547-9722. This crepes purveyor began as a food truck, but has now found a permanent home in Beechmont. The menu has expanded to include up to 25 items, including the popular vegetarian black bean burger crêpe and an avocado crepe with poached eggs and red pepper jam. $$ B Br L LOU LOU FOOD + DRINK 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776. Jared Matthews, who also operates Equus and Jack’s Lounge, continues the Café Lou Lou tradition of Nawlins-style Cajun food, but Chef Christian Garay has added other casual fare including pizza, pastas and calzones. $$ Br L Dp LOUVINO 1606 Bardstown Rd., 365-1921, 11400 Main St., 742-1456. Steve Ritchie, former CEO at Papa John’s Pizza, has taken over this popular wine bar and small plates restaurant. He is keeping on Executive Chef Tavis Rockwell and his staff, so fans will still be able to enjoy the seasonal shareable small plates menu and clever organization of the wine list. A myriad of wines by the glass are available fresh from their wine-dispensing cruvinet system. $$ Br D pf MERLE’S WHISKEY KITCHEN 122 W. Main St., 2908888. Tony Palombino’s popular Whiskey Row food and music spot across from the KFC Yum! Center offers live music on a regular basis and a menu that emphasizes tacos and Southern fried chicken. Sides offered include sweet potato casserole, long-cooked green beans and a candied bacon appetizer. 100 bourbons are currently on offer, including handpicked private barrels from Buffalo Trace, Maker’s Mark, Wild Turkey and others. $ L D pf NEIGHBORHOOD SERVICES 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. This casual eating option in the Omni hotel serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner and offers relaxed indoor and outdoor dining. Enter from the hotel or street. $$$ B L D pf NOOSH NOSH 4816 Brownsboro Ctr., 205-2888. Anoosh Shariat’s family-style eatery is close by his upscale Bistro in Brownsboro Center. Here, a rustic stone oven in an open kitchen offers “homey, comfort food.” Chef Peng Looi, of Asiatique and August Moon, cooks three nights a week. $$$ B Br L D pf NOUVELLE BAR & BOTTLE 214 S. Clay St., 631-9428. This French-style wine bar sells 40+ wines by the glass (in 3-, 6- or 9-ounce pours) and 200 to 300 wines by the bottle, focusing on affordable, interesting wines. A selection of beers, ciders, classic cocktails, bourbons and scotches also are available to accompany cheese and charcuterie boards, along with desserts. $ L D pf OFF THE RAILS TASTING ROOM AND WINE DEPOT 2118 Bruce Ave., 822-0738. Enjoy three favorite adult beverages at this Buechel winery – wine, craft brews, and bourbon. The wines made by owners Kenny and Denise Jewell include a Cabernet and Reisling, and several fruit blends. The beers and Bourbons are from all over Kentucky. $$ Br D pf OSTRA 1758 Frankfort Ave., 915-0160. After a brief hiatus, this tidy, hip Clifton café is open again under Christopher deRome, one of the original owners. Oysters are still a mainstay, but focus has shifted to items like duck grilled cheese and 100% house-ground ribeye with smoked cheddar. $$ D pf
B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:25 AM Page 45
P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 3277707. This Arizona-based, Chinese-themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinese-style dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$$ L D pf PHANTOM CAFE MODERN EATERY 1813 Frankfort Ave., 442-9878. Phantom Cafe offers a menu of soups, salads and specialty sandwiches and wraps. It also offers all-day brunch from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays. $$ Br L D f SIDEBAR AT WHISKEY ROW 129 N. Second St., 6302012. On the west side of Whiskey Row, above Troll Pub under the Bridge, Sidebar focuses on burgers, Bourbon and beer, a potentially boffo combo for those going to or coming from the Yum! Center across the street. The emphasis is on craft cocktails served alongside a short but bold selection of sandwiches, appetizers and desserts. $$ LDp SOMEWHERE LOUISVILLE 1135 Bardstown Rd., 5526942. Now you can dine and have some cocktails, and then slide right next door to Nowhere for late-night fun and games. The Southern-inspired menu includes beer cheese and pretzels, smoked wings, buttermilk fried chicken and 3 varieties of flatbreads. $$ D pf THE CHAMPAGNERY AT ARCHITYPE GALLERY 1764 Frankfort Ave., 896-8050. This Clifton business hosts art shows and now also has a full bar with a focus on more than 120 Champagnes and sparkling wines plus a menu of light bites – oysters, caviar, charcuterie, cheeses, fruit and desserts. $$$ D p THE FAT LAMB 2011 Grinstead Dr., 409-7499. The first of Chef/owner Dallas McGarity’s dining properties, this comfortable, classy Highlands bistro serves lunch and dinner, focusing on small plates such as onion and chive hushpuppies, lamb meatballs, curry-seared salmon, tandoori-seared scallops and ricotta ghnocchi with truffled mushroom cream. $$ L D pf THE HUB LOUISVILLE 2235 Frankfort Ave., 777-1505. Clifton has taken to this sprawling modern restaurant, cocktail bar and adult rec center with gusto. The Southern-inspired small plates menu and its specials board of rotating entrees pleases multiple tastes. The bar boasts a big rum and tequila selection, with alcoholic floats a specialty. The lively patio is packed in good weather. $$ D pf THE PINE ROOM 6325 River Rd., 528-4422. Augusta Holland is behind the modern incarnation of this classic Prospect restaurant, in the space that most recently was Cast Iron Steakhouse. Start with, perhaps, the chicken liver lettuce wraps, or sweet potato falafel. Then go for the blackened pork chop or the grain bowl. The buttermilk fried chicken is a dining favorite. $$$ Br D pf THE SILVER DOLLAR 1761 Frankfort Ave., 259-9540. In this Clifton honky tonk bar and restaurant, the music, all on vinyl, is the “Bakersfield sound” — a fusion of Mexicali and American roots music. The southern country-style menu with sophisticated nuances has happy fans crowding in mosty nights. Choose from more than 80 Kentucky Bourbons, ryes, tequila and mescal, but no “foreign whiskey” like Scotch. $$ Br L D pf VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 7081850. In the heart of Anchorage is this two-level Eurovillage inspired concept. On the upper level, a French bistro with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs at The Sea Hag the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food-style menu is served lunch and dinner with weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with more than 50 craft and import choices accompany 55 Bourbons to boot. $$$ Br L D pf WILTSHIRE AT THE SPEED 2035 S. Third St., 634-2976. Susan Hershberg and her team led by Chef Reed Johnson bring “artfully inspired, creative and seasonal” breakfast and luncheon fare to the Speed Museum. Open at 10 a.m.
p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining
RED = Advertiser
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 45
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:25 AM Page 46
for pastries, croissants, coffee and tea, lunch is served until 3 p.m. with soups, salads, sandwiches and entrees such as buckwheat noodle salad with seared salmon. A grab-and-go counter is open until 5 p.m. And now a limited dinner menu is served Fridays when the museum is open until 8 p.m. $$ B Br L pf
502 CRAB HOUSE 5023 Mud Ln., 963-5848. Another entry in the sudden efflorescence of Cajun-CreoleLouisiana-style seafood restaurants, featuring crab boils, spicy crawfish, crab legs and some dishes inspired by Vietnamese/Texas/Louisiana fusion cooking, such as its own variation on pho. $$ L D p f BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4666. This franchise concept from the Florida-based Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ D p CADILLACS CHICKEN AND FISH 7105 Fegenbush Ln., 287-3437. This family-operated food truck has found a permanent space, where you can find catfish, codfish plates, chicken tenders and fish tacos, with simple sides of fries, coleslaw, baked beans, mac and cheese, onion rings and hushpuppies. $$ L D p CAPTAIN CRAB SEAFOOD BOIL AND BAR 4112 Outer Loop, 384-9471. This Okolona-area restaurant’s menu includes raw bar selections, fried baskets (shrimp, chicken strips, catfish, calamari and gator meat) and seafood boil buckets containing shrimp, snow crab, lobster tails and all the accouterments. $$$ L D p CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS RIVERSIDE GRILLE 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ Br L D pf CATFISH HAVEN PAY LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Catfish Haven, a simple, down-home eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County. Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their payto-fish lake. $$ L D f CUNNINGHAM’S CREEKSIDE 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. One of the longest-lived restaurants in the city, Cunningham’s has had several incarnations since 1870, and now pulls in old timers and new fans at its Harrod’s Creek location. There you can find fine fish sandwiches and pub grub, and absorb some of the nostalgia associated with this long-time favorite. $ Br L D pf THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993. Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fishsandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. And on weekends the space morphs into Café Beignet, serving hearty breakfasts and New Orleans-style beignets. $ Br L D pf HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to find. Its oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ L D f HOOKED ON FRANKFORT 3202 Frankfort Ave., 6909835. The owners of Frankfort Ave Beer Depot now operate this fish house two doors away. The menu features fried fish sandwiches, fish tacos, baskets of shrimp or oysters or frog legs. Clam/conch chowder and seafood gumbo, too, or mac and cheese and grilled cheese sandwiches for those who can’t do fish. $$ L D p HUNGRY PELICAN 5412 Bardstown Rd., 239-7145. The sole remaining representative of a quite popular chain still 46 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
keeps up the tradition. The cooks and servers are oldtimers who understand the intricacies of getting perfectly fried seafood to customers in timely fashion. Generouslyfilled rolled oysters, too. $$ L D pf JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ L D pf KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 8950544, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 2843474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made Kingfish a popular favorite for many years. Aficionados of rolled oysters and frog legs can find both here, as well as a large selection of fried and broiled seafood, as dinners and sandwiches. Both locations boast river views. $$ L D pf LEGEND CRAB SEAFOOD HOUSE 3020 Bardstown Rd., 939-9888. Located in the former Buckhead’s space in the Gardner Ln. shopping center, legends offers seafood boils and fried seafood, with sides of corn, coleslaw, fries or sausages. $$$ D p f MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. This popular riverside restaurant has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ L D f MILLION'S CRAB 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 742-2485, 12951 Shelbyville Rd., 365-2665. Both locations of this casual counter-service restaurant offer Cajun seafood boils, side dishes, bulgogi and pulled pork sliders, mac and cheese, fried shrimp and alligator bites. Half and full pound seafood-in-a-bag choices include clams or mussels, crawfish, shrimp. scallops, snow crab legs or lobster tails. $$ L D p MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ L D pf PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633. If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer, with no frills, this Jeffersontown tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ L D f PIER 17 CAJUN SEAFOOD 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-9857, 5362 Dixie Hwy. Pier 17 introduced Louisville to the Vietnamese-Cajun fusion concept of Asian-spiced seafood boils (which originated on the Texas-Louisiana coast). Now this variation on the seafood boil has opened a second location in Pleasure Ridge Park. $$$ L D pf RED LOBSTER 4639 Outer Loop, 964-9647, 986 Breckenridge Ln., 899-3334, 951 E. Lewis and Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 285-0444. Consistent quality and moderate prices have maintained this seafood chain’s popularity in the casual dining category since its founding more than fifty years ago. Periodic promotions please repeat customers and draw new folks into the fold. $$$ L D pf RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantilyclad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucket-of-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ L D pf SAM'S SEAFOOD & GRILL 4918 Poplar Level Rd., 9666940. The choices here include jack salmon, frog legs, grouper and red snapper, as well as catfish, tilapia and shrimp. The fish-averse can fill up on chicken wings or gizzards or a range of meat-filled sandwiches. $$ L D SHARK’S SEAFOOD 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 450-5775. Several types of crunchy-breaded fried fish - white fish, shrimp, catfish, salmon - to choose from, as well as
wings and side dishes like fried mushrooms and fried okra. $ L D SINCLAIR SMOKED SALMON 2208 Dundee Rd., 5481203. You can find just verlasso salmon here, in various sizes of fillets, hot smoked over hickory, using a process developed by a hobbyist turned weekend seafood entrepreneur. Order ahead and takeaway only. $$$$ THA DRIPPIN CRAB 1219 W. Jefferson St. (Village at West Jefferson), 749-6005. Superchef Darnell Ferguson offers a range of sauces for his seafood dishes that will be different from the standard “boil-in-the-bag” offerings of other Cajun/Creole seafoods places. On the menu: seafood lasagna, seafood birria tacos and lobster rolls. $$$ L D p THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188. This friedfish eatery has been popular in the St. Matthews neighborhood since 1983. The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ L D f THREE BROTHERS 2001 Seventh Street Rd., 409-7447. The menu of this Algonquin neighborhood fish house includes Chicago-style fried perch, cod, salmon and catfish, the best seller. $ L D VILLE CHICKEN AND SEAFOOD 4322 Poplar Level Rd., 919-8994. The name certainly reveals the focus of this well-kept little neighborhood spot that has re-worked an old Arby’s building. There are crawfish and crab legs, too, corn on the cob and very commendable real Southern sweet tea. $$ L D
BOB'S STEAK & CHOP HOUSE 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. The signature restaurant located off the lobby in the Omni Hotel offers refined service and a decor focused on American thoroughbred racing. A steak menu offers seven prime selections, from ribeye to filet to 28-oz. porterhouse. Seafood, too (crab cakes, scampi, lobster tails), and sumptuous desserts. $$$$ D p BRAZEIROS CHURRASCARIA 450 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 290-8220. This Knoxville-based company’s first satellite location has been a downtown hit. A churrascaria works like this: You choose drinks, visit the salad bar and await visits from “gaucho chefs” who bring yard-long skewers of grilled meats (beef, lamb, sausage) to your table for slicing — as much as you wish — along with side dishes. $$$$ L D pf BROOKLYN & THE BUTCHER 148 E. Market St., New Albany IN. 590-2646. Ian Hall of The Exchange Pub + Kitchen opened this steakhouse in a renovated historic hotel with lots of cool touches: black and white tiles on floor and walls, an open kitchen and a vintage bar counter from an old local Woolworth’s store. The bar program emphasizes bourbon, Scotch and craft beers. The menu includes fresh seafood, small plates and lots of beef — New York strip, bone-in ribeye, flat iron steaks — all as locally sourced as possible. $$$ D pf CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-2298. Buck’s owner Curtis Rader also operates this riverside eatery where the kitchen cooks steaks and sides in cast iron pans at moderate prices. The ambience is upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music,” Rader promises. $$$ D pf CATTLEMAN’S ROADHOUSE 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-7623, 139 Historical Trail, 543-3574, 3500 St. Joseph Rd., New Albany, 725-7166. These local outlets of the small regional chain offer mid-priced beef choices and starters such as fried pickle chips and jalapeño poppers, grilled chicken, salmon, and plenty of sandwiches. $$$ L D pf DEL FRISCO’S 101 Whittington Pkwy., 897-7077. Over a year after having its roof collapse, this long-time St. Matthews steakhouse has resumed operation at the former location of Z's Oyster Bar & Steakhouse. The high-end
B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:25 AM Page 47
menu offers steaks, a variety of surf ’n’ turf selections, seafood and, of course, its famous spinach dish, green phunque. $$$$ D p f JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Caesar’s Southern Indiana, Elizabeth IN, 866-676-7463. After you hit it big at the tables, Binion’s has everything a high roller craves. Start with oysters Rockefeller or shrimp cocktail, French onion soup or crab bisque. Then, choose Chilean sea bass, lobster tail, rack of lamb or a choice of prime steak, including Wagyu tenderloin. $$$$ D p JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 584-0102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ L D p
bourbon barrel staves. If steak isn’t your dish, check out the sole meunière, the truffled spaghetti, the well-stocked raw bar, or grab a blue crab omelet at lunch. As you might expect, the spirits list is deep. $$$$ B Br L D p RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The long-standing Louisville location of this New Orleans-based international chain is perched atop the 16-floor Kaden Tower. Ruth’s Chris serves excellent steaks, chops and seafood in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ D p STEAK & BOURBON 1321 Herr Ln., 708-2196. Ole Restaurant Group has branched out with this affordablypriced premium steakhouse. In addition to the signature 24 oz. cowboy cut Angus ribeye (aged a minimum of 30
21ST AMENDMENT TAVERN 1481 S. Shelby St., 6547221. The former Club 21 has been restored and reimagined as a Schitzelburg neighborhood bar with a food menu that is both Kentucky-centric and a nod to longmissing German-American food. In addition to a selection of burgers, look for the baloney burger, a Neighborhood Nosh meat board with braunschweiger and pickled eggs and other retro bar favorites. $$ L D pf CORNER 102 W. Main St., 583-1888. Corner is the bar and restaurant attached to the chic, contemporary Aloft Hotel downtown. The emphasis here is on the bar, with a wine and cocktail menu longer and more creative than the food side. Still, there are solid bar munchies, from dips and deviled eggs to sandwiches, salads and tacos. $$ B D pf
LE MOO 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. Kevin Grangier of Village Anchor & Pub in Anchorage has re-imagined the space that was for decades KT’s, creating a new interior design he calls “Paris brothel meets vintage warehouse,” a lively and amusing space with lots of steel, neon and velvet, a large bar, and an outdoor patio. The Euroeclectic menu has an emphasis on steaks, of course, but the drag-themed brunch has gained many fans. $$ Br L D pf
DOC'S BOURBON ROOM 129 W. Main St., 742-2449. Doc Crow’s has taken over the space next door to create what they say is “the nation's biggest whiskey bar.” It carries thousands of Bourbons and other whiskeys, served as flights, tastes, pours and cocktails. Menu items include beef tartare, lamb flatbread, fingerling poutine and freshbaked pretzels. A coffee bar is open early in the morning. $$$ D p
LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9789, 1540 Alliant Ave., 266-6009., 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ L D p
DOWN ONE BOURBON BAR & RESTAURANT 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. Situated down one flight below street level, this cool, shaded watering hole stocks 150-plus Bourbons, local craft beer and serves wines by the glass. Well-priced bar food like biscuit sandwiches, tacos and Frito Pie make for a quick, satisfying lunch. Bluegrass music several times a week too. $$ L D pf
LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5800, 4813 Outer Loop, 969-9790. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ L D p
EXCHANGE PUB + KITCHEN 118 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 948-6501. Owner Ian Hall has made his gastropub in a sumptuously renovated historic building such a fun place to sit and sample the eclectic bistro-style menu that he has had to expand his dining room and patio. Wash things down with something from its substantial beer, wine and cocktails list that even includes house-made ginger ale. $$ L D pf
MALONE'S 4370 Summit Plaza Dr., 618-0702. This Lexington-based restaurant serves lunch and dinner. Menu choices include various cuts of prime steaks, fish and seafood, including sushi, and house favorites, such as bottomless salad and bread. $$$ L D p f
FOUR PEGS BEER LOUNGE 1053 Goss Ave., 634-1447. Twelve craft beers on tap and a 30 bottle beer list bring in the fans, who also appreciate the award-winning veggie burger and other well-priced pub grub such as a chicken and waffle sandwich and an estimable burger with fried green tomatoes and beer sauce. $ D f
MATT WINN STEAKHOUSE 700 Central Ave. (Churchill Downs) 636-4888. Churchill Downs’ Executive Chef David Danielson, with Chef Jeff Daley at his side, oversees this classic premium steakhouse on Millionaire’s Row. This new restaurant, named for Col. Matt Winn, one of the most influential figures in the history of thoroughbred racing, is open all year long, not just during the racing meets, serving prime beef with a choice of sauces, rack of lamb and seafood. $$$$ D pf MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This belowground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ D p OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ D p PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 896-9234. A local favorite for more than 60 years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets. Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steakhouses in town. $$$$ D pf REPEAL OAK-FIRED STEAKHOUSE 101 W. Main St. (Hotel Distil), 716-7372. The main restaurant at the new Hotel Distil on Whiskey Row fires the steaks over used
p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining
RED = Advertiser
GALAXIE 732 E. Market St., 690-6595. The guys behind RYE just down the street now have the Green Building space for a bar dedicated to moderately priced drinks ($7 cocktails are what they are shooting for) and a bar menu of “international-inspired street food,” which was described as “easy to take with you,” so you can nosh as you imbibe. $$ L D pf days) the menu offers pan-roasted chicken, grilled Verlasso salmon, steak & cheese hand pies, Marylandstyle crab cakes and carrot cake with bourbon caramel icing. Try the House Punch or choose from over 100 bourbons, including a reserve list. $$$ L D pf STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ Br D p TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy. (Green Tree Mall), Clarksville IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy., 448-0705, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600, 13321 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0085, 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8975005. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ L D p
GRALEHAUS 1001 Baxter Ave., 454-7075. Gralehaus has fully reopened its cafe for coffee, breakfast and lunch and a new concept, Grale Goods, will open next door to Holy Grale in early 2022, selling beer and other foodstuffs. The new concept, Gralehaus and Holy Grale are collectively known as "The Grales.” $$ B L f H. M. FRANK'S AN O'SHEA'S PUBLIC HOUSE 355 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 913-1174. Upon gutting the interior and re-building the facade of this 1880’s-era building, the original identity of H.M. Frank’s Dry Goods store was uncovered, a discovery that has given this O’Shea’s outpost its name. The bar is made from repurposed barn wood, there’s an event space upstairs, and upscale bar food is created by Chef John Knightly. $$ L D pf THE MANHATTAN PROJECT 2101 Frankfort Ave., 7498925. This upscale gastropub has expanded, with a main room now looking out on the lively Cifton streetscape. The new menu includes short rib sliders, chicken and waffles and four kinds of fries. Mac ’n’ cheese has its own menu section listing almost a dozen possible adds ons— www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 47
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:25 AM Page 48
from bacon to crab to pork cheek to grilled chicken. TMP has become popular for its brunch, tacos & trivia Tuesdays, and the original space in the rear is a great sports watching or special party venue. $$ Br L D pf THE STANDARD PLATE & POUR 207 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 590-1055. Circumstances beyond the usual have delayed the reopening of this downtown New Albany gastropub. But now Reed Johnson, known for his work at Wiltshire and Against the Grain, has come on as executive chef as this long-anticipated project reopens. Look for bar food favorites a couple of notches above the usual. $$$ Br L D pf WORLD OF BEER 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 690-4280. This Florida-based chain serves a wide variety of craft beers and sports a tavern menu that is a few notches above the usual bar food: wings and sandwiches, sure, but also chimichurri meatballs, ahi tuna poke and chipotle BBQ chicken flatbread. Its giant pretzel and beer cheese is a great shared nibbler. $$ L D pf
80/20 @ KAELIN’S 1801 Newburg Rd., 200-8020. Burgers are back at the birthplace of the cheeseburger. Chef Matt Staggs's “rustic regional” menu offers 7 burgers and 7 entrées at this complete renovation of the classic Kaelin’s space. There’s a malt shop serving fountain drinks and house-made ice cream on one side, and a family-friendly restaurant and bar on the other. Seating on the spacious patio/porch, and upstairs is a large private room for parties and meetings. $$ L D pf BUFFALO WILD WINGS 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 10206 Westport Rd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-9464, 4917 Outer Loop, 964-5803. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ L D pf BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132. This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ L D f BURGERIM 3733 Lexington Rd., 901-1101. This fastgrowing California-based chain offers burgers made with beef, salmon, lamb, chicken and falafel. Chicken wings and milkshakes too. $$ L D f THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg IN, 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ L D CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ L D
dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain popular. $ L D f DADDY RICH’S 617 W. Oak St., 290-9110. The kitchen incubator Chef Space gave birth to this new Old Louisville soul food spot. Owner Rodrick Martin named it after his late grandfather, who inspired him. The limited cooked to order menu includes chicken wraps, mini-waffles and ten wing flavors. DIXIE CHICKEN 1785 W. Oak St., 690-2748, 3947 Dixie Hwy., 448-2102. A growing fried chicken spot that serves up honest fried chicken and good, standard sides at reasonable prices. $$ L D DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery, an institution that goes back more than 70 years, hasn’t changed much. It opens early, stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ L D f DOUBLE FLAME BURGER 5408 Valley Station Rd., 4500118. At this South End spot, you can build your own flame-grilled burgers, or opt for other sandwiches – pulled pork grilled chicken, grilled cheese or fried baloney. $ L FAMILY TIES 1030 Cecil Ave., 907-6548. This West End convenience store also has a vibrant carryout business offering a family-friendly menu of burgers, wings, rib tips, hot dogs and brats. $ B L D FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany IN, 944-9958, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702, 4226 Shelbyville Rd., 891-8848, 4917 Outer Loop, 8223702, 13303 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1027. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshly-grilled burgers, big smoky kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries and a cheery rock’n’roll sensibility. $ L D GET IT ON A BUN AT BOOTY’S 822 State St., New Albany IN, 292-3800. Another successful food truck finds a permanent home. Booty’s made their name with the Booty Dog, Booty Burger and chili but the menu now ranges from jerk chicken to pulled pork on brioche to a meatloaf cupcake.$ L D GRIND BURGER KITCHEN 829 E. Market St., 851-7333. Owners Liz and Jesse Huot are firmly established now in NuLu, giving them much-needed parking, as well as a full bar. In addition to their signature burgers, the Huots have a chopped chicken sandwich, an “adult” grilled cheese made with Brie and Gruyere and a couple of salad choices. $$ L D f HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2723 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403, 303 W. Cardinal Blvd., 708-1818. Burgers, dogs and fries with a baseball theme highlight these suburban spots, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ L D f
CHICKEN SALAD CHICK 12009 Shelbyville Rd., 8424341, 1520 Veterans Pky., Jeffersonville IN, 504-2360. The name says it all: here you can find a baker’s dozen styles of chicken salad, as a scoop or a sandwich, plus pimento cheese sandwiches, soups and salads. $$ L D f
HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standing reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ L D pf
CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-8100, 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3662. At this growing chain, you can get your wings doused in an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicy garlic barbecue to sweet Thai chili to inferno — a habanero-based sauce that has a legit name. Also breaded and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches, appetizers and salads. $ L D pf
HOSS BOSS WINGS & RIBS 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 565-4194. Chef David Danielson, the Executive Chef at Churchill Downs, operates this chef-driven “ghost kitchen,” and delivers via most delivery apps. The menu focuses on southern-style chicken wings with southern sides and baby back ribs by the bone. $$ L D
CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001, 1555 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0810, 11801 Interchange Dr., 618-0838. When the signature item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the 48 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-9099, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970 Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8980, 4590 Dixie Hwy., 447-4856, 4419 Cane Run Rd., 448-1109, 4901 Poplar Level Rd., 969-5352. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a
mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ L D JAGGERS RESTAURANT 6464 Dutchmans Ln., 242-9311. The Texas Roadhouse folks are trying out a new concept. This fast-food restaurant offers chicken sandwiches, burgers, shakes and salads. $$ L D f JOELLA’S HOT CHICKEN 3400 Frankfort Ave., 895-2235, 13401 Shelbyville Rd., 254-1111, 1225 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville IN, 913-7555. You can find Nashville-style hot chicken – medium, hot and hotter – at all three locations. House-made sides local craft beers and wine and freshsqueezed lemonade as well. $$ L D pf KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013 $ L D MUSSEL & BURGER BAR 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 3844834, 113 S. Seventh St., 749-6451. The unusual combination in the name sparks immediate interest; the consistently excellent offerings of both shellfish and meat patties keeps satisfied customers coming back. Choose from six different sauces for the mussels, and 12 clever twists on burgers. The downtown venue has an expanded menu and a handsome outdoor courtyard. L D pf OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ L OSKAR'S SLIDER BAR 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 395-9010. Jesse and Liz Huot (Grind Burger Kitchen) expand on their burger concept with a new slider bar. Oskar’s (the name inspired by the Huots’ son, Oskar) offers over a dozen slider choices – chicken, fried fish and pork belly in addition to the expected ground beef mini-burgers. Fries and salads, too. $$ L D p RAILBIRDS HOT CHICKEN 4520 Poplar Level Rd., (Derby City Gaming), 961-7600. Grab some wings or jumbo tenders at your choice of heat level or other nonspicy chicken dishes and sides like fries and slaws before you head back to the games. $ L D RAISING CANE’S 10490 Westport Rd., 425-4040, 6811 Bardstown Rd., 654-7737, 5212 Dixie Hwy., 742-9035, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 822-1188, 1905 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-9441. A national chain with a single core product — chicken fingers. Six locations in town now, all offering simple and straightforward fried chicken finger combos and sandwiches with slaw and fries on the side. $ LDf RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 948-9895. This Seattlebased chain serves up its well-regarded “gourmet burgers” and trimmings in two East End locations and S. Indiana. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ L D pf RED TOP GOURMET HOT DOGS 1127 Logan St., 6402032. The journey from street cart to food truck to storefront is complete. Ryan Cohee's all beef, nitrate- and preservative-free hotdogs can be found now in Shelby Park. Bison and Waygu beef choices, as well as vegan/ vegetarian-friendly dogs. Columbus-style sauerkraut balls, too. $ L D pf ROOSTERS 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 590-3391, 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 883-1990, 5338 Bardstown Rd., 618-1128, 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 7082798. With a wide footprint in Ohio, this Columbusbased wings-and-brews chain is now spreading its franchise reach across Indiana, West Virginia and Kentucky. Its six local properties have gained popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ L D pf ROYALS HOT CHICKEN 736 E. Market St., 919-7068,
B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:25 AM Page 49
10310 Shelbyville Rd., 242-7200. Ryan Rogers first pressure-fries his chicken, then, in the Nashville style, blankets it with a paste of oil and spices delivering mild to “Gonzo” heat. If you’re not in the mood for bird, salads and even Southern-fried tofu are on the menu. $$L D f SIX FORKS BURGER CO. 1039 Ash St., 565-9750. This popular Germantown spot has moved to larger digs in Schnitzelburg. In addition to burgers you can find hot dogs, Polish sausage, not-your-ordinary grilled cheese and several vegetable side dishes.$ L D p SMASHBURGER 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 326-4141, 312 S. Fourth St., 583-1500, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport) 363-2526. A growing chain located mostly in the West and the South now has three Kentucky locations serving made-to-order Angus beef burgers, and is looking to open more area locations. $ L D f STEAK ‘N SHAKE 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak ‘n Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ B L D THE CHICKEN BOX 5905 Terry Rd., 618-0430. This Pleasure Ridge Park restaurant offers six flavors of wings, all cooked to order: buffalo, extra hot, bbq, lemon pepper, hot garlic Parmesan and lemon pepper hot. The waffle biscuit has impressed fans. $ L D f THE CHILLBURGER 500 LaFollette Station Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 728-8283; 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 725-9157. These two Southern Indiana burger places tout freshly-ground USDA Choice beef, fresh-cut fries and milk shakes and sundaes from hormone-free dairy. Chicken and fish sandwiches, too. $ L D f THE EAGLE 1314 Bardstown Rd., 498-8420. This small Cincinnati-based chain serving fried chicken, five-cheese macaroni, house-made biscuits and other comfort food, has established itself firmly in the Highlands restaurant row. The three-season patio is a great place to enjoy the beer list. $ L D pf
shop, a fancy bakery and a deli. You can stop in for your morning coffee and sweet bun to go, buy a cake for dessert or take away a stuffed pita for lunch. $ B L D f ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ L f ANGIE’S CAFE 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 920-0831. Angie’s cooks up a solid breakfast menu – eggs, omelets, breakfast sandwiches, pancakes – and creates hearty hot and cold sandwiches for lunch, at pleasantly retro prices. $ B L AROMA CAFÉ & BAR Caesar’s Southern Indiana, Elizabeth IN, 866-676-7463. Grab a bite before hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $$$ B L D p ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ B D p BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. Tables are always at a premium at this popular Crescent Hill breakfast and lunch spot. And its artisanal bakery continues to produce hearty European-style breads that have set a gold standard on restaurant tables and in better grocery stores around town. $$ B L D f BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln. (Crown Plaza Hotel), 367-2251. $$$ L D p BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. Named after the owner’s dear, departed beagle, Boomer’s is a popular, low-key downtown deli in the heart of the museum district. Sandwiches, burger and fries, homemade chocolate cookies, and good coffee. $ L BORSALINO CAFÉ & DELI 3825 Bardstown Rd., 8075325. This Buechel store is somewhere between a coffee
CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. Highlands diners enjoy an eclectic and international menu at this friendly corner place, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, just about 24/7. $ B L D pf CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch or supper. $$ B L D f CC’S LOW CARB KITCHEN 800 S. Fourth St., 215-0797. This carb and calorie-conscious restaurant takes over the classy space in the 800 Building that was the first location of bar Vetti. The menu offers both traditional and lowcarb pastas, flatbreads and elevated comfort foods. The full-service bar offers a selection of sugar-free low-calorie cocktails and wines. $$$ D p CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot where owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as lasagna and Brie and cranberry-stuffed chicken. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $ L D f CHRISTI'S CAFÉ 12810 Dixie Hwy., 937-3110. This family-operated restaurant in Valley Station serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, all the dishes you know you want: omelets, hotcakes, wings, chili, bean soup, giant burgers, open-faced roast beef with mashed potatoes and liver and onions. $ B L D
THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445, 3038 Hunsinger Ln., 618-0106. Wing Zone, with locations scattered across the eastern U.S., excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Tame to Nuclear Habanero. Burgers, fried shrimp and sides as well. $ L D f W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd. 8979684, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 742-1583. After 30+ years of offering build-your-own burgers on substantial housebaked buns and a huge condiment bar, this popular burger place has finally opened a second location, in a revamped Steak ’n’ Shake building. $ L D WEEK-END BURGERS 5600 National Tpke., 994-8215. Another food truck business has gone off the wheels. Week-End Burgers boast their “burgers are the way burgers used to be made years, years ago, good, tasty & messy).” Philly sandwiches, too, and sides and desserts. $ LDf WHISKEY DRY 412 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live!) 7497933. Ed Lee expands his local empire to Fourth Street Live! with this casual burger and whiskey bar. The menu features a suggested whiskey pairing for each burger from among the 200 whiskeys from America, Ireland, Japan and elsewhere. $$ L D pf WINGSTOP 4812 Dixie Hwy., 409-6000, 2007 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7171. This Texas-based chain with 500 restaurants nationally, now reaches into Louisville. Their specialty? Wings of course, and you can get them 9 different ways. $$ L D p ZAXBY’S (8 Locations) There are now 9 outlets in Louisville and Southern Indiana. The casual dining chain cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wingz and fingerz - that sort of thing. $ L D
p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining
RED = Advertiser
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 49
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:25 AM Page 50
CHRISTMAS MORNING CAFÉ 2359 Frankfort Ave., 6147409. This festive Christmas-themed café serves breakfast, brunch and lunch items year round. If you like holiday whimsy with your brunch, try the "Rudolph's fresh berry crepes,” Grandma Klaus biscuits and gravy or "Pere Noel” French toast. $ B Br L f CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. This family-owned and operated, classier-than-the-averagestrip mall place has quietly turned out delicious menus for better than 30 years. The Frederick family serves an eclectic menu (blackened tenderloin, Andouille-stuffed chicken, garlic-basil chicken pizza) and dishes like the Irish pork have won prizes at local charity contests. $$$ L D pf CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 8961488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual quality café fare in this comfortable frame house in Clifton. Three variations on chicken salad are available, 8 different green salads, 8 hot sandwiches (many with cute names: The Big Dirty, The Guido). Vegetarian choices and cheesecake or cookies, too. $$ L D CUP OF JOY 2507 Bank St., 919-9074. This coffee shop and café, located in a former bar, is a project of Haven Ministries and run mostly by volunteers. According to founder Esther Lyon, the food is “homemade, down-home cooking … biscuits and gravy, homemade potato soup, chicken and dumplings, turnovers, pastries.” Nothing on the menu tops $5. $ B L DERBY CAFÉ EXPRESS 704 Central Ave. (Kentucky Derby Museum), 637-1111. You can get both grab-and-go eats, and made-to-order breakfast and lunch items before or after your visit to the Derby Museum. At breakfast, choose from hot and cold breakfast items, fresh pastries and kolache. The lunch menu offers deli-style sandwiches, paninis, soups, salads, Derby Pie (of course) and Benedictine. There is also a full bar. $ B L pf FARM TO FORK CAFÉ 2425 Portland Ave., 365-3276. Farm to Fork, for many years a premier catering company known for its Southern favorites made from scratch from regionally-sourced ingredients, has moved its operations to a former Portland firehouse and has opened a café serving breakfast and lunch. The seasonal menu includes grits, biscuits, soup, salads and sandwiches. $ B L p FLORA KITCHENETTE 1004 Barret Ave., 963-5592. Under new ownership, this breakfast and lunch spot is still all-vegan, making vegan adaptations to things like scrambled” eggs” (made with mung beans), buttermilk pancakes, and various pastries. $$ B Br L f FULL STOP FILLING STATION 1132 E. St. Catherine St., 260-8046. This former car repair shop is now a grab and go coffee shop and deli, offering locally-sourced food, coffee and a few grocery items, a limited to-go beer section and some beers on tap. Café open until 5; kitchen closes at 2 p.m. $ B L p GARDEN GIRL FOODS 501 W. Oak St., 384-1600. A pandemic-inspired backyard garden has grown into a mission-driven company with a mission to address the city’s food deserts for locally grown produce, preserved foods and ready-to-eat meals. All food is non-GMO and locally sourced and features products from Black-owned producers. Cooking and gardening classes are offered for both kids and adults. $$ L D f HIGHLAND MORNING 1416 Bardstown Rd., 365-3900, 111 St. Matthews Ave., 883-0203. You can order breakfast anytime at both locations, with an eclectic menu that also encompasses brunch, burgers, soul food, Southern dishes and vegetarian fare as well. $ B L D HOT BOX EATERY 438 W. Market St., 822-3995. Try their fresh soups, salads, sandwiches, wraps and daily specials. Menu choices include a Brie and salami wrap, Indonesian chicken peanut satay, pork schnitzel, a turkey club wrap and a gyro — in other words, an appealingly diverse selection. $ L
50 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistrostyle alternative to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $$ B L pf
sandwiches, a turkey club, chicken salad or artisan flatbread pizza. Dine inside in the dining room or outside on the patio that overlooks the 550-acre farm. Huber wines and cocktails made from spirits distilled on the premises available too. $$ L D pf
JW CAFÉ & BAKERY 2301 Terra Crossing Blvd., 9075248. The bakery part of this East End spot offers scones and cupcakes and other expected bakery treats. The café part has a variety of lunch items, including Korean specialties. The smoked salmon salad has won fans quickly. $ B L f
TERRI LYNN'S CAFÉ AND CATERING 133 E. Market St., New Albany IN, (812) 923-1503.After two decades in the catering business, owner Terri Lynn Doyle now has a brick-and-mortar café in downtown New Albany, in the space that had recently been Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café. The menu features Terri Lynn’s staples such as salads, baked goods and sandwiches. $$ B L f
KAYROUZ CAFÉ 3801 Willis Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ L D f ORANGE CLOVER KITCHEN & MORE 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-1005. Find quick breakfast and lunch items here, such as the Orange Clover muffin: poppy seed and blood orange flavors with a blood orange drizzle, as well as a cupcake version with cranberries. Two soup specials offered every day out of a recipe rotation of 75 possibilities PURE BLENDZ 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 6408668. This kiosk at the Logan Street Market offers pure, unprocessed foods in the form of superfood smoothie bowls, avocado toast, kombucha, lemonade tea fogs and more. $ L D f PURRFECT DAY CAT CAFÉ 1741 Bardstown Rd., 9165051. One room is a wine bar with snacks and small bites provided by local bakeries. The other room, by reservation, is a Cat Room, populated by cats needing homes, provided by the Humane Society. Bring in a drink, and play and cuddle with kitties — and maybe take one home. $ B L D p RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700, 10639 Meeting St., 357-0005. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands (and now at a second location in Norton Commons). Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu, where you can find Cuban, Jamaican, Greek, and Middle Eastern dishes at moderate prices. A weekend brunch and late-night hours add to the draw. $$ L D pf RED HOG 2622 Frankfort Ave., 384-0795. Kit Garrett and Bob Hancock, owners of Blue Dog Bakery, now also have this butcher shop and café offering artisan cured meats in Crescent Hill. Pasture-raised pork, beef, bison, lamb and poultry are available. The café serves small plates and pizzas fired from their wood-burning oven. The bar offers craft cocktails and 12 beer taps. $$ L D pf RIOT CAFE 574 S. Fourth St., 709-5654. Olivia Griffin has taken over the Craft(s) Gallery & Mercantile space adjacent to her Tiki Bar to provide a safe space for progressive conversation and refreshment. Part bodega, part cafe and bar, and part art gallery, Griffin sets aside a percentage of sales to fund a loan program for people of color to start or grow a food or beverage business. $$ B Br L SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 893-5118. This perennially popular little East End eatery, long a goto choice for breakfast and lunch, now provides dinner on Friday nights too. $ Br L D f SHAHAR CAFÉ 1511 Bardstown Rd., 653-7083. Anselmo’s Italian gives way to this eclectic eatery whose owners have devised a menu of Euro-Asian entrees and snacks. The wide-ranging menu includes beef kabobs, Russian piroshki, samosas and poutine. Weekend entrée specials may include plov (a central Asian rice and meat dish), shashlik (similar to shish kebab), pelmeni (Russian dumplings) and borscht. $ B Br L D STARLIGHT CAFÉ 19816 Huber Rd., Starlight IN, 9239813. This café in the Winery building at Huber Farm provides light lunch items such as seasonal soups, Rueben
THE CAFÉ 711 Brent St., 589-9191. The transition is complete. The Café is now across the street from its original Paristown location, in a newly renovated, airy space, part of the Paristown Pointe development. The menu, with its complement of hearty breakfast and lunch dishes, remains the same. $$ B Br L D pf THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. Since 1975 this St. Matthews tradition has delighted ladies who lunch, hungry students who munch, and just about everyone else with their sandwiches, pasta salads and tasty desserts. It caters parties with almost 50 choices of appetizers, party sandwiches, dips, cheese rings and crostini. $ L f THE CHEDDAR BOX TOO 109 Chenoweth Ln., 8961133. Cheddar Box owner Nancy Tarrant has extended her presence with a café just across the parking lot. Look for the same tasty salads, soups and desserts that have made her take-away business so popular. $ B L THE SILLY AXE CAFÉ 2216 Dundee Rd., 290-7197. A completely gluten-free restaurant. Most recently home to Diorio’s Pizza, Silly Axe (a play on celiac disease) has a deli counter and a selection of pre-made items for take-away. The menu offers meat, vegan and vegetarian choices, daily quesadillas and five house sandwiches. $$ L D pf THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ L THE TABLE 1800 Portland Ave., 708-2505. This West End non-profit, social entrepreneurship experiment serves locally-grown, fresh food and operates under a pay-whatyou-can model. Pay suggested prices if you can, or if not, contribute your time. Or donate more to “pay it forward.” The menu offers soups, salads, sandwiches and sides. $ L D TOP HAT CAFÉ 1300 Muhammad Ali Blvd., 583-8822. Located inside the Old Walnut Plaza, this neighborhood coffee shop and breakfast and lunch café, named after an historic West End nightclub, is a project of the Louisville Central Community Center, in its effort to connect the Russell neighborhood to its past and to encourage fellowship and neighborhood networking.$ B L D VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-4338. $LD WAYCOOL CAFÉ 120 W. Broadway, 582-2241. Wayside Christian Mission trains people here in its community reentry program in restaurant service and management. Breakfasts for under $5; a lunch buffet is $8 for unlimited trips. A dinner menu too. It’s a do-gooder place that serves good food. $ L D WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 618-3449, 121 S. Floyd St., 690-5925, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN 913-4735. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can now be found at this growing mini-chain’s fifth outlet. $ B Br L p WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 581-8561, 6301 Moonseed St., 581-8560, 605 W. Main St., 749-1683. Caterer/ Restaurateur Susan
B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:25 AM Page 51
Hershberg’s popular bakery and café operation now has three locations, with the opening of a downtown café in the former Atlantic No. 5 space. At all three you can find artisanal breads, scones and croissants, full breakfasts (Tuscan egg sandwich, breakfast grain bowl, frittata, smoked salmon plate) as well as sandwiches, side salads and paninis. $ B L ZEGGZ AMAZING EGGS 11615 Shelbyville Rd., 8821650. This quick-service breakfast and lunch spot offers five house omelets (plus the chance to build your own), three variations on eggs Benedict, as well as biscuits and gravy, croque madames, waffles and pancakes. Luncheon fare includes a B.A.L.T (the ‘a’ is for avocado), salads and soups. $$ B Br L pf
A NICE RESTAURANT 3129 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have branched out to three locations. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ BL AGAVE & RYE EPIC TACOS 426 Baxter Ave., 873-5111, 324 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 993-8226. This Covington-based chain has added a second area store in southern Indiana. Offerings include tacos, bourbon, arcade games and 70+ tequilas. The Rooster taco contains crispy chicken, mac & cheese and hot sauce. The Bang Bang is a vegetarian dish, with crispy cauliflower, corn fritters, queso and spicy carrots. $$ L D p f APPLEBEE’S 4717 Dixie Hwy., 448-1399, 10006 Will Way, 231-1661, 4535 Outer Loop, 969-1228, 771 E. Lewis and Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-3594.. This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ L D p ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 2392200, 302 Bullitt Ln., 425-0077. A lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ L D p BAER’S CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany IN, (812) 924-7348. Under new ownership, this successor to the long-running River City Winery has the same winemaker, with Brandon Noe as the new chef. $$ L D p f BISCUIT BELLY 900 E. Main St., 409-5729, 3723 Lexington Rd., 690-2945, 818 W. Kenwood Dr. (Colonial Gardens) 384-4545. Chad and Lauren Coulter, of LouVino fame, own this breakfast- and lunch-oriented eatery. You’ll find over-sized biscuit sandwiches filled with chicken, country ham or brisket; oatmeal, hash and Nutella toast, as well as an adult beverage program that includes beers and coffee-inflected cocktails. There’s nonalcoholic coffee, too, and eggs however you like them. $$ B Br L pf
BRICK HOUSE TAVERN + TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-3182. Brick House, a Houston-based chain, has upgraded its image with an increased focus on food. Serving brunch, lunch and dinner, with a half-dozen local beers on tap, and an unusual menu of beer cocktails. $$ L D pf CHAMPIONS GRILLE 505 Marriott Dr. (Radisson Hotel), Clarksville IN, 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ B Br L D p CHEDDAR’S SCRATCH KITCHEN 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallasbased chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ L D pf CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 301-8181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880, 3007 Poplar Level Rd., 638-5202, 940 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 670-3000. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ L D CORELIFE EATERY 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 670-5680, 9365 Viking Center Dr., 709-7131. This Syracuse-based franchise offers vegetable and grains bowls, bone and vegetable broth, and grass-fed steak, chicken and tofu power plates. $$ L D CURRITO 6460 Dutchmans Pkwy., 883-0043. This Cincinnati-based chain offers Asian versions of grain bowls and wraps, with a choice of meat or tofu. Their signature drink is the Dreamsicle Shake. $ L D DENNY’S 4030 Dutchmans Ln., 896-2669, 434 Eastern Pkwy., 636-2538. What better place for travelers to get breakfast than Denny’s? This venerable chain knows its customers, pleasing them with familiar diner food in big portions. The late-night scene in this 24-hour refuge for the hungry makes for colorful fun. $$ B Br L D DOUBLE DOGS 13307 Shelbyville Rd., 244-4430. Double Dogs, a Bowling Green, Ky.-based chain with four locations, has its first Louisville-area restaurant in Middletown. Double Dogs describes itself as “a family friendly restaurant with a sports atmosphere,” serving a variety of appetizers, sandwiches, hot dogs, burgers and pizza. $ L D pf EAT YOUR BOURBON MARKETPLACE 2708 Frankfort Ave., 618-0939. Owner Matt Jamie extends his Crescent Hill Bourbon Barrel Foods concept with this grab-and-go prepared foods store that uses recipes from Jamie’s "Eat Your Bourbon" cookbook: charcuterie boards, sandwiches and other prepared foods from Chef-in-Residence Michael Crouch and Butchertown Grocery Bakery. $$ B Br L D p FIRST WATCH 201 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-6075, 960 Breckenridge Ln., 618-1955, 1205 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 575-3447, 2225 Taylorsville Rd., 4447744, 12913 Shelbyville Rd., 233-0770. This Floridabased chain offers both traditional breakfast fare (fried eggs, sausage), proprietary specials, like French toast Monte Cristo (made with ham, turkey and Swiss cheese), crepes with plenty of fillings and healthful dishes like egg white omelets and cranberry nut oatmeal. $ B L
BLIND SQUIRREL 592 N. English Station Rd., 384-6761. This American-style restaurant is part of the King Louis Sports complex. The 400-seat, two-story dining facility boasts outdoor seating overlooking the sand volleyball courts, 27 TVs inside, a performance venue, a cigar humidor and outdoor smoking lounge. Chef Chris Goss serves up his take on American family standards: burgers, sandwiches, pizza and so on. $$ L D pf
GAME 2295 Lexington Rd., 618-1712. Though under new ownership, the specialties here remain the same: sliders, meatballs and burgers made from ground exotic meats. Start with bone marrow or fried frog legs, try some wild boar chorizo sliders, or build your own burger from kangaroo, venison or alpaca, with bun choices ranging from brioche to pretzel to Kaiser roll. $$ D f
BOOMTOWN 110 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 590-1314. A third restaurant takes over the former home of the legendary South Side Inn, Boomtown focuses on affordable classic dishes: several burgers, including a wild game option, steak dinner with two sides and pork chops. $$ L D pf
GANDER, AN AMERICAN GRILL 111 S. English Station Rd., 915-8484. Chris and Anne Mike, of Goose Creek Diner, have opened Gander, An American Grill, serving steaks, burgers, pasta and sandwiches — "a little bit of everything that makes America what it is," according to Mike. $$$ Br L D pf
p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining
RED = Advertiser
GATSBY’S ON FOURTH 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3200. The casual dining space on the first floor of the Seelbach reflects its connection of the hotel to F. Scott Fitzgerald. There are two breakfast buffets, American and Continental, as well as a la carte choices from the griddle or from a “Healthy Sunrise” menu. $$ B L p GERMANTOWN SOCIAL 1318 McHenry St., 709-7669. Taking over the space that had a short run as Couvillion, Germantown Social is a family and neighborhood-friendly place helmed by.Chef Nate Gibson, who comes over from owner Shay Tinsley’s BA Colonial. The offerings include lunch, dinner, and brunch on Sundays. $$ D p f GREEN DISTRICT SALADS 126 Breckinridge Ln., 4095293, 225 S. Fifth St., 822-3055, 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 565-4986, 1449 Bardstown Rd., 792-9011. This growing quick-service restaurant chain focusing on build-yourown chopped salads (or you can order from a menu). Lunch diners can opt for soups and wraps too. $$ L D HARROD’S CREEK TAVERN 6313 River Rd., 919-8812. Commuters trundling home to the suburbs can mingle with Prospect residents, river rats and parched kayakers docking out back on Harrod’s Creek. Look for an expanded bar food menu, brown bag lunches to go and late-night food service. $ L D pf IN SEASON 324 W. Main St., 323-3200. Sourcing ingredients from his farm, owner Daniel Passafiume, offers healthy options like salads, stir fry and harvest bowls, designed with what is currently in season. The menu will rotate at least four times per year. $$ L INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. IHOP fans can choose to go out to the East End or across the river to satisfy their jones for the national chain’s inimitable food. $ B L D JOE'S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 434-7470. The Lyndon landmark has returned to its old spot, replacing Red Barn Kitchen, which had replaced Joe’s. The bar is rebuilt and another stuffed moose has been found. But Olé Restaurant Group remains a partner, providing the food: smoked wings, brisket chili, cheese fritters, a mac and cheese burger and a daily lunch plate, all at prices that will appeal to Joe’s original fan base. $$ L D pf KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646. Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $$ L D MAPLE STREET BISCUIT COMPANY 1004 Bardstown Rd., 384-8022. This growing Florida-based breakfast chain has taken over the too-long-empty Yang Kee Noodle space in the Highlands. The menu features fresh biscuit dishes, from-scratch sausage and shiitake gravies and homemade jams and jellies. Waffles, grits and oatmeal, too. $$ B Br L f MORNING FORK 1722 Frankfort Ave., 830-9500. A new concept from Geoffrey Heyde, owner of Fork & Barrel Restaurant, takes over the space long held by North End Café. The focus is breakfast, brunch, and lunch: Short rib eggs Benedict, crepes, cornmeal pancakes in the morning; soup, salads, sandwiches and hearty entrées at lunch. $$ B Br L p f MOYA'S AMERICAN KITCHEN 10000 Linn Station Rd., 496-6692. This "good old American comfort food" restaurant in Jeffersontown offers fare such as jalapeño hushpuppies, fried green tomatoes, grilled cheese and tomato soup, smothered pork chop, chopped steak, meatloaf and fried catfish.$$ L D pf NAÏVE 1001 E. Washington St., 749-7856. This Butchertown vegetarian restaurant has been catering for some months in preparation for its opening as a sit-down www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021
51
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:25 AM Page 52
restaurant. Its dishes include savory rice bowls, burritos, frittatas and quiches, savory toasts, salads and sandwiches. $$ D pf NOODLES & COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 632-0102, 4302 Summit Plaza Dr., 791-9015, 319 Cardinal Blvd., 632-2846. This Colorado-based fastcasual chain offers an eclectic noodle array: Asian style (pad Thai, Bangkok curry), pastas (Tuscan fresca, penne rossa) — or select from a lineup of savory sandwiches and salads.. $ L D f O’CHARLEY’S 1901 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-8372, 962 Breckenridge Ln., 899-9430, 4404 Dixie Hwy., 4479203. O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-and-seafood menu with the motto PORTAGE HOUSE 117 E. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 913-4250. Dallas McGarity has changed the focus of his cozy riverfront casual restaurant to upscale bar food and sandwiches. Even simple things still have the McGarity touch: Sriracha chicken wings with cucumber yogurt sauce, Greek meatloaf & smashed potatoes with spinach and feta. The cornmeal-coated catfish sandwich is served on buttered toast, and the black bean burger comes on a brioche bun. $$$ L D pf RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 8973900. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-2323. Fans of Sam Anderson’s steaks, chicken, pizza and pasta know it is well worth the trip up into the Knobs above New Albany to enjoy the conviviality of his restaurant, and his always satisfying take on classic American steak, sandwiches and seafood. $$ L D p SHONEY’S 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ B L D SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 340 Whittington Pkwy., 429-5773, 4024 Dutchmans Ln., 721-0093, 3505 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 7257176. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ L D SUPERCHEFS 1702 Bardstown Rd., 409-8103. The funky comic book-themed decor in Darnell Ferguson’s Highlands restaurant celebrates super heroes during breakfast and lunch, and super villains at dinner. His menu reflects his super-sized sensibilities: the SuperChefs Omelet, the Pancake Platter, and a seafood pizza with a petite lobster tail on top. $$ B Br L pf TGI FRIDAY’S 416 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 5853577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ L D pf THE B.A. COLONIAL 818 Kenwood Dr. (Colonial Gardens), 242-8686. Another entry into the Iroquois-area resurrection of the historic Colonial Gardens. The menu here features American casual cooking, such as freshlyground burgers, salads and seafood. A full bar serves a five-cocktail list, margaritas, rum punches, and its own take on the Old Fashioned. $ L D p f THE FUELERY 2011 Frankfort Ave., 618-0677. This Clifton eatery serves healthier takes on familiar dishes, like pork loin and shrimp and grits, Caesar salad, turkey
52 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
burgers and lettuce wraps, along with coffee, teas and smoothies. $$ L D f TOAST ON MARKET 620 E. Market St., 569-4099. This breakfast and lunch favorite has gained a loyal following and tremendous word-of-mouth. Be prepared to wait for tables for weekend brunches. $ B Br L pf TRIFECTA 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 618-3970. The name does not refer to a betting pool at the track, but rather the culinary triad — pizza, salad and burritos — on the menu at this Clifton restaurant. There are standard choices in each category, but you can build your own dish as well. $$ B L D TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany IN, 944-9999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a downto-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ L D p TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 4518944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ B L D f
8TH STREET PIZZA 411 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 725-0004. This “boutique, pay-it-forward pizza shop and ministry” serves New York style pizza with a “pay what you can afford” concept. Pay the full suggested price, pay what you can afford to pay, or pay the full amount of the suggested meal price plus a little extra to "pay it forward”. $LDf ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 367-0580. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $$ L D ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4771 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-to-order pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $$ L D ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany IN, 945-1149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-9805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $$ L D ARNO’S PIZZA 3912 Bardstown Rd., 384-8131.$$ L D BEARNO’S PIZZA (14 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 14 locations. $$ L D f
enhancements, a new company logo and slogan (“Crafted for You”), an expanded wine and cocktail list and a dedicated takeout entrance. New menu items include jumbo tater tots stuffed with bacon and cheddar cheese, a cauliflower crust pizza, seasonal pizzas and game day specials. $$ L D pf BORROMEO’S PIZZA & ITALIAN 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 968-7743. Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $$ L D pf CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ L D pf CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ L D CHEF'S CUT PIZZERIA 9901 LaGrange Rd., 265-1320. This reasonably priced Lyndon pizza place has sandwiches too, from chili dogs to turkey clubs, and pasta dishes. $ L D p CHUBBY RAY’S 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. This family restaurant has grown from a small mostly carry-out spot to a large (400 seat) Jeffersontown institution. The menu offerings have expanded as well. In addition to signature pizzas, you can find quesadillas and rooster wings, burgers and subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D pf COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3730 Frankfort Ave., 742-8200, 11615 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0106, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). Middletown and airport travelers now partake in what St. Matthews diners have enjoyed for a few years–excellent pizzas made in coal-fired ovens burning at 800 degrees F, crisping the crust in 4 minutes and “leoparding” it with black spots. Toppings are fresh and regionally-sourced. $$ L D pf DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1836 Mellwood Ave., 890-6331. Dan McMahon sells generously-topped pizzas at the walk-up venue in the courtyard of the Mellwood Arts Center. The choices are mostly traditional with outliers like Hawaiian and Kentucky Hot Brown. His butter-drenched garlic breadsticks, aka “Cracksticks,” are a fan favorite. McMahon’s pizzas can also be found at Tim Tam Tavern. $$ L D DEENO'S PIZZA & WINGS 9100 Dixie Hwy., 653-7814. This ambitious little family-run place rolls and shapes house-made dough to order, and bakes, then air-fries wings before tossing them in one of 11 sauce coatings. The weekend buffet offers pizza, wings and a taco bar. $$ Df
BLAZE FAST-FIRE’D PIZZA 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 8957800, 13317 Shelbyville Rd., 822-3677, 4055 Summit Plaza Dr., 915-8731, 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarsville IN, 406-4347. At this California-based pizza franchise you customize your own pie from a lineup of meat and vegetable toppings, cheeses and several sauces. The pie bakes in just 2 minutes in a flaming hearth oven. There are ready-to-order signature pies also for those who can’t make up their minds. $$ L D p f
DERBY CITY PIZZA 5603 Greenwood Rd., 933-7373, 2500 Crittenden Dr., 384-4777, 10619 Manslick Rd., 742-3940, 2331 Brownsboro Rd., 290-0677, 9910 Linn Station Rd., 384-8733. It is always nice when a business’s name is self-explanatory. But the menu offers burgers and wings, too, along with toasted subs and pasta dishes. The Brownsboro Road location is carry-out only. $$ L D pf
BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 935-5540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ L D f
DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 618-3424, 917 Baxter Ave., 614-8424. Residents in St. Matthews and in the Highlands can savor pizza by the slice, as well as by the mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilled sandwiches, salads, wings, queso sticks, and a good selection of domestic and import beers. $$ L D pf
BOOMBOZZ PIZZA · WATCH BAR 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 265-4591, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 913-4171. After two decades of success with his gourmet pizza stores, Tony Palombino is reimagining his brand and retooling both the decor and the menus at all of his locations. That reimagining includes audio/video
EMMY SQUARED PIZZA 825 E. Market St., 785-5800. This Detroit-style pizza chain joins a growing list of properties in the Nulu Marketplace, anchored by West Sixth Brewing. The square pizzas here share the menu with burgers, including the double-stack "Le Big Matt.” $$$ L D p f
B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:25 AM Page 53
FACES BAR/BISTRO 1604 Bardstown Rd., 742-6403. Covid put the kibosh on Eric Morris’s idea for Asianinspired tapas, but switching to take-out during the tightest times inspired his new concept. Morris now offers a pandemic-proof (he hopes) menu: pizza by the slice and signature 18-inch pies. There are calzones and sandwiches too, and the bar offers seasonal cocktails. $$$ D p FAT JIMMY’S 12216 Shelbyville Rd., 244-2500. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. HIDEOUT PIZZARIA 5620 Barrett Ln., 742-3145. This family-friendly sports bar has 12-foot TV screens, pool and cornhole, arcade games and live music, in addition to pizzas, burgers, spaghetti and an array of sandwiches. $$$ LD HOMETOWN PIZZA 4041 Preston Hwy., 363-4880, 9601 Newbridge Rd., 409-6276, 12607 Taylorsville Rd., 7428700, 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-4555. The four local outlets of this chain offer pasta dishes, hoagies and stromboli as well as pies like the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. The Preston Highway location opened an adjacent craft brewery; the beers brewed there are available in all Hometown locations. $$ L D p IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ L D JAKE & ELWOOD’S 2230 Frankfort Ave., 690-2167. The main draw to this Clifton spot is Chicago-style deep dish pizzas, but Jake and Elwood’s menu includes hot dogs and sausages, Italian beef sandwiches, wings, chili, fries and salads. $$ L D p JET’S PIZZA 101 S. Hubbards Ln., 895-4655, 3624 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1700, 235 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-4440, 6523 Bardstown Rd., 239-0000, 2500 Bardstown Rd., 458-5387, 10494 Westport Rd., 4261181. Now with seven Louisville outlets, this Detroitbased chain offers sit-down service and carry-out. The menu features eight crust flavors and some gourmet pizza options such as a BLT and chicken parmesan. $$ L D f LEGACY PIZZA & BAKERY 1001 Vincennes St., New Albany, IN, (812) 725-0021. This sincere little pizza joint sells New York-style pizzas, calzones, strombolis and breadsticks. $$ L D LITTLE CAESARS PIZZA (10 Locations) This pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ L D LUCKY LEOPARD PIZZA 1032 Story Ave. Located inside High Horse Bar in Butchertown, Lucky Leopard focuses on thin crust Neapolitan pizzas, flash-cooked in a 900degree oven. The pizza dough is also used in the Panozzo sandwiches, flash baked to order and filled with pulled pork and caprese with black olive vinaigrette, among other choices. $$ D p LUIGI’S PIZZERIA 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. New York City-style pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, has been making inroads in River City, but Luigi’s was one of the first to offer in its authentic form here. $$ L f MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 2469517. A pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishment. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $$ L D MAC'S @ MILE WIDE 636 Barret Ave. (inside Mile Wide Beer Co.), 409-8139. Beneath the silos at Mile Wide Brewery, Mac’s offers a concise menu of personal-size pizzas with clever names, also salads and appetizers that pairs well with Mile Wide’s tap list. There’s even a Nutella dessert pizza. $$ L D p MARCO’S PIZZA 2011 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-1144. A rapidly growing (300+) pizza chain from Toledo, Ohio, adds to the choices of takeout pies in New
p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining
RED = Advertiser
Albany. Ironically, its CEO lives in Louisville and commutes to Toledo. $$ L D MIMO’S NEW YORK STYLE PIZZERIA 2708 Paoli Pike, New Albany IN, 945-7711. People move to the Knobs for its bucolic setting, but locals still crave their pizza fix. Mimo’s provides that with daily specials, such as Buffalo pizza, calzones, heroes, wraps or salads. Mangia, mangia! $$ L D p MOZZA PI 12102 Lagrange Rd., 890-4832, 1020 E. Washington St. Tom Edwards began MozzaPi several years ago as one of the first food trucks in Louisville. At his Anchorage pizza place he drafts artisanal pies from flour he mills himself. He makes bread too, and gives courses in artisanal baking. Now with an outpost in TEN20 Brewery. $$$ L D pf MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-5005, 10035 Dixie Hwy., 632-2504, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0933. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw. $$ L D NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. The remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. $$ L D OLD SCHOOL NY PIZZA 12907 Factory Ln., 882-1776, 10600 Meeting St., 882-3000. You want Sicilian-style pizza, just like they make in Brooklyn? Now you can get it in these two Eastern suburbs locations. Top it with vegetables supplied by local farmers, or tie into a calzone and finish with gelato. $$ L D pf ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 4542711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 653-7243. Impellizzeri’s massive pies, loved for a generation, are the draw but there is also a full menu of Italian-inspired meals including hoagie sandwiches and pasta dishes at all three locations. $$$$ L D pf PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (8 Locations) There are eight locations for this take-and-bake pizza purveyor scattered around town. $$ L D PARLOUR PIZZA 131 W. Chestnut St., Jeffersonville IN, 914-7400, 2636 Frankfort Ave., 895-9400, 225 State St., New Albany IN, 920-6400, 133 W. Liberty St., 888-1515. It all started with a lively beer garden operation at the food of the Big Four bridge. Now there are four locations on both sides of the river. All locations have 40+ beers on top and serve New York-style pies. $$ L D pf PIZZA DONISI 1396 S. Second St., 213-0488. Old Louisville hipsters have long needed a nearby pizza joint. Now they have it and it’s owned by Danny Fitzgerald, impresario behind Mag Bar. Get it by the slice or in whole artisan pies, along with appetizers, fried ravioli and more. $$ L D f PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9454405, 1701 E. 10th St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-8286. The pizza is baked in a sturdy, stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. We heartily recommend the barbecue pizza. $$ LD PIZZA LUPO 1540 Frankfort Ave., 409-8440. Max Balliet, the owner of Holy Molé taco truck, now also has Lupo, a casual Italian restaurant where he bakes up pizzas on a fire-engine-red wood-fired oven. Along with pizza, Lupo offers a variety of handmade pastas in a restored 19th century Butchertown building. $$ D pf PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $$ L D pf
PIZZAVILLE 2901 Goose Creek Rd., 754-3001. The owner of this suburban shop once was a pizza scientist, overseeing corporate pizza dough varieties. Now he sells his own versions of New York-style hand-tossed and Detroit deep dish pizzas at this former Bussman’s Bakery location near Westport Rd. $$ L D PRIMO'S PIZZERIA 2043 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 7497072. Based on a recent visit, this new spot is off to a great start. There are no conveyor belts here. Well-trained pizza makers give each pie individual attention, the toppings and accents (like fresh basil) are fine quality, and the assortment of crusts — wheat, thin, rising, deep dish, cauliflower, broccoli — is first rate. The lunch special, ten bucks for a big fresh salad with a generous personal pizza is a steal. $$ L D f SAL’S PIZZA & WINGS 812 Lyndon Ln., 365-4700. In addition to generously-topped pizzas, you can find panini, subs, burgers, and fried fish at this inviting spot in a Lyndon strip mall. $$ L D pf SHERRILLI'S PIZZA PARLOR 496 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $$ L D f SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 629 S. Fourth St., 589-8686, 8133 Bardstown Rd., 491-3663. Ready for takeout or eatin, both the downtown storefront and its suburban sister site offer good, standard pizza and other familiar ItalianAmerican dishes. $$ L D pf SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 4005 Shelbyville Rd., 895-0755. This locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their Philly Cheesesteaks and massive slices of pizza has added a third location. All are open until 5 am nightly Wednesday through Saturday. $ L D SQUARE CUT PIZZA AND SUGAR ROOM 741 E. Oak St., 290-5721. The Sugar Room serves soft-serve ice cream in unusual flavors: burnt marshmallow, chocolate sea salt, s’mores swirl and others. Roman-style pizzas, with thin but airy crusts, is the concept in the larger Shelby Park space, which also sells Italian cured meats. $$ LDf THE CORNER 4111 Murphy Ln., 426-8340. $$ L D THE GRAIN HAUS 41 W. First St., New Albany IN, (470) 588-2337. Part of Floyd County Brewing, the separate building across the court yard boasts a wood-fired pizza oven and a rotating list of guest beers. $$ D pf THE POST 1045 Goss Ave., 635-2020. Germantown has long needed a classic New York-style pizza joint, and this spot, in a former VFW post, has provided it. Pizza is available by slice or whole pie, mostly classic tomato sauced varieties, but a few oddities, like the chicken dinner pizza with Buffalo-based sauce, chicken, cheddar, onion and ranch drizzle. Calzones, subs and salads, too.$$ D p TOPP'T HANDCRAFTED PIZZA 373 Professional Court, New Albany IN, 725-8891. This Elizabethtown-based fast-casual pizza and salad concept serves fast-fired (in an 800-degree oven), handcrafted pizzas and made-to-order chopped salads. The thin crust dough is made onsite daily in original, wheat and gluten-free versions. One price regardless of the number of toppings. $$ L D f UNION 15 5205 New Cut Rd. (Colonial Gardens), 6537494. The name of this pizza and tap house refers to Kentucky joining the Union as the 15th state. The menu includes Chicago thin crust pizza, wings and sandwiches. The bar has more than 50 beers, wines and bourbon on tap. $$ L D pf WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 3348 Hikes Ln., 907-5542. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at both of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $$ L D pf ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ L D
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 53
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:25 AM Page 54
AMERICAN SMOKEHOUSE STADIUM 5580 Hwy. 62, Jeffersonville IN, 282-6700. This Southern Indiana BBQ joint does the usual stuff – brisket, pulled pork and chicken. But also look for the smoked prime rib, burnt ends, smoked lamb gyros or fried tofu. $ L D p BABIE BAC'Z GOOD GRILL 8533 Terry Rd., 619-1873. This far South End family-owned barbecue restaurant smokes up baby back ribs and rib tips, half chickens and wings and several sandwiches, including the Bacz Attack, which combines ham, bacon and pork. $$ L D BABY MAE'S 1817 Graybrook Ln., New Albany IN, 9147040. Barbecue and soul food in the old Mom & Pop’s Cone Corner building. Baby Mae’s reasonably priced menu includes everyone’s comfort foods: ribs, pulled pork, smoked turkey, mac and cheese, home fries and the “grandaddy of chili dogs.” $ L D BACK DECK BBQ 801 W. Kenwood Dr., 705-7662. What began as a popular barbecue food truck has settled down at the late, lamented Jimbo's Bar-b-Que spot near Iroquois Park. In addition to the expected pulled pork and chicken, brisket and sausages, burnt ends are available Friday and Saturday. $$ L D f BIG BEN’S BBQ 600 Quartermaster Center, Jeffersonville IN, 284-4453. This family run BBQ joint is now at the Quartermaster Center, smoking up a storm and impressing locals who recommend Johnnie’s Smokin Ribs, Joecille’s Backbone (brisket tips), Big Ben’s shredded pork sandwich and Alvin’s Wild-Side shredded chicken sandwich. $$ L D f BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722. Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentucky-style mutton barbecue. $ L D f CARR'S BBQ AND MARKET 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 728-8106. This Floyds Knobs restaurant uses locally-sourced meats in its pulled pork, brisket, smoked turkey breast, chili and ribs. Choose sandwiches, plates with sides, or order by the pound. $$ L D f CHECK'S BBQ & BLUES 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 2446868. The owners of Germantown’s Checks Café have opened this BBQ joint in Middletown, featuring live blues bands on weekends. Some Check’s Café standards (chicken livers, fried pork chops), along with ribs, pulled pork and brisket, as sandwiches and full dinners comprise the menu. $ L D p CITY BARBEQUE 329 Whittington Pkwy., 996-8003. This Ohio-based BBQ chain specializes in brisket, but doesn’t neglect pulled pork (served with slaw on top) and St. Louis ribs. It also smokes turkey breast, chicken and sausage. $$ L Dpf FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 4932812. This franchise chain operation maderby cityderbuyy be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ L D pf FDKY BBQ 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 785-4273. The logo shows that “FD” stands for Fire Department — after all, those guys know all about smokin’. Eat dinner in or order a couple of pounds of pulled pork, marinated pulled chicken, brisket or smoked sausage, firehouse chili or Res Q stew and all the required side dishes to go. Ribs on Wednesdays and Friday calls for fried fish. $$ L D f FEAST BBQ 909 E. Market St., 749-9900, 10318 Taylorsville Rd., 749-6534. Owner Ryan Rogers brings a
54 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
modernist sensibility to the art of barbecue to both NuLu and Jeffersontown. He has formulas for brining times and uses a high-tech smoker to keep the temps low and the smoke from overwhelming the meats. $ B L D pf FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. And where else can you play miniature golf while waiting for the smoker to finish? $ L D pf GALLEY AT GOODWOOD 636 E. Main St., 584-2739. Goodwood Brewing’s downtown production facility and comfortable taproom now offers a menu designed to pair with its liquid fare. Start with bowls of chili or burgoo, grab some wings or tacos, or one of the smoked meat sandwiches. $$ L D GUY FIERI'S SMOKEHOUSE 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live!), 919-7299. The latest creation of the Food TV’s bad boy chef caused some serious musing about the meaning of “celebrity” chefs to local eating. But see the hoopla for yourself, and try some of the fried chicken brined in pickle juice, brisket with pomegranate, sorghum-glazed pork chops or Triple Crown grilled cheese sandwich. $$ L D pf
MARTIN'S BAR-B-QUE JOINT 3408 Indian Lake Dr., 242-4666. Pretty famous in Tennessee, but Louisvillians can now savor the meats smoked in the open pit (the whole hogs take 24 hours). All dishes, meats, sides and even sauces are made in-house daily. For a different kind of treat, try the smoked turkey sandwich. $$ L D pf MISSION BBQ 4607 Shelbyville Rd., 206-3331, 1213 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 269-3860. The National Anthem is played every day at noon at this Baltimorebased chain, which makes a point of supporting soldiers, firefighters, police officers and other first responders. Look for Texas-inspired brisket, smoked turkey, pulled chicken and pork, and even smoked salmon. There are also ribs, of course, sandwiches and scratch-made sides. $$ L D pf MOMMA’S MUSTARD PICKLES & BBQ 102 Bauer Ave., 938-6262, 119 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 290-7998. The St. Matthews spot garnered so many barbecue fans that a second outlet opened in the East End for the overflow. Knot on your bib for Kansas City-style smoked pork and beef ribs (a house specialty), brisket, chicken, pulled pork and all the standard sides. Their wings are a contender for best in all the city. Momma's “2% for Louisville” program steadily donates 2% of earnings to local charities. $$ D f
HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 CharlestownNew Albany Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4490. Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce. A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ L D
PORKLAND BBQ 2519 St. Cecilia St., 890-5988. Created by the non-profit group, Love City, Porkland BBQ’s proceeds benefit community programs for youth and aspiring entrepreneurs. Look for pulled pork and pulled chicken sandwiches, fried fish, rib tips, side items and desserts. A Portland specialty, smoked bologna sandwiches, too. $ L D
HOLY SMOKES BAR-B-QUE 7508 Preston Hwy., 9685657. The former Bootleg Bar-B-Q franchise on Preston Hwy. has become Holy Smokes Bar-B-Que. Owner Mark Weatherholt smokes his wings for three hours, his ribs and chicken for five, and his pork lingers overnight. He does brown sugar wings, too. $ L D
RIVER ROAD BBQ 3017 River Rd., 592-7065. Right next to the Water Tower, this little take-out-only place smokes brisket and pork: some days one sells out, on other days the other. Winter hours are 11-6 or until the meat runs out. Potato salad, slaw and drinks. Buy it by the sandwich or by the pound. $ L D
HOSS BOSS WINGS & RIBS 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 565-4194. (See listing under Burgers / Chicken).
RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find a bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ L D pf
JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texasstyle barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ L D f LOUIE’S HOT CHICKEN & BARBECUE 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 709-4274, 505 W. Broadway, 709-5275. The chicken here ranges through 4 levels of heat, the hottest using the notorious ghost pepper. BBQ choices include pulled pork and brisket and smoked wings. $ L D f M&M BBQ 1401 Bluegrass Ave., 996-0163. The Ekklesia Christian Life Ministries operates this BBQ joint that offers rib tips, meat loaf, an assortment of traditional sides, and keeps a limited schedule (Tuesday-Friday, 11:30-7). The food is popular enough that they sometimes sell out, so get there early. $$ L D f MACK BROS BBQ 2700 Rockford Ln., 384-4590. This family owned and operated restaurant serves ribs, rib tips, chicken and sides, including a fan favorite: cornbread salad. $$ L D
RUBBIN’ BUTTS BBQ 8007 Highway 311, Sellersburg IN, 748-7266. Up the road a ways you will find this “traditional” BBQ joint with some house specialties not so traditional: smoked deviled eggs, BBQ pork queso and their signature, the BBQ Pig-E-Chonga, a flour shell stuffed with baked beans, cheese, and pulled pork, then deep fried and smothered in queso and BBQ sauce. $ L D SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 363-3227. This Fairdale institution since 2004 smokes and serves slow-smoked pulled pork, brisket, ribs and a dozen sides (including Nanny’s potato salad) from an 1896 log house. Specialty is hickory-grilled steaks on Friday and Saturday nights. $ L D f SMOKED ON SECOND 133 W. Liberty St., 888-1414. The restaurant moving into the former Griff’s space, joining the One Thirty Three bar, features typical Southern barbecue and sides and has a stage to host live music. $$ LDp
MARK T'S SLAB HOUSE 4912 Preston Hwy., 409-7366. That would be slabs of ribs, of course. A wonderfully direct name for a barbecue restaurant. Several drum-style smokers out front exude a savory cloud, attesting to the work being done inside those drums. $ L D
SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 4917570. This Stony Brook-area eatery combines a sportsbar with a barbecue concept. Its large and varied menu includes wings and burgers, steaks and pork chops, and several takes on mac ‘n’ cheese, as well as righteous ribs. $$ L D p
MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 9337707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 285-1998, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 442-0808. Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked take-home turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ L D pf
ATG SANDWICH EMPORIUM 119 S. Seventh St. 6537577. Against the Grain Brewery continues the decadeslong lunch tradition of Another Place sandwich shop. The focus is on hot sandwiches and flatbreads with side
B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:25 AM Page 55
dishes. In the evenings, the Flamingo Lounge presents a diverse music lineup in the bar downstairs. $$ L p BARRY’S CHEESESTEAKS & MORE 1161 S. Second St., 618-2288, 2500 Bardstown Rd., 384-2430. Barry’s version of the classic Philly street food has been getting raves from self-anointed cheesesteak mavens, who approve of his meat, bread and the cheese sauce choices. $ L D BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ali Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ B L BRUEGGER’S BAGELS 119 Breckenridge Ln., 618-1158. The bagel/sandwich chain has set up shop in the middle of St. Matthews, offering another quick breakfast and lunch option. Choose from bagels and breakfast sandwiches, muffins, panini, salads and soups. $ B L f BUTCHER’S BEST 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully-staffed meat store in Prospect offers custom-cut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ L D f CHICAGO STEAK & LEMONADE 9015 Galene Dr.,7421381. This local spot serves a variety of Philly cheese steaks, gyros, lemon-pepper fish dinners and wings. The lemonade comes in a passel of different flavor combos. $ LD CLOSE ENOUGH CAFÉ 250 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN (812) 913-4911. Here you can find interesting breakfast sandwiches, hot and cold lunch sandwiches and coffee, geared to grab-and-go lunch eaters. Mimosas and Bloody Marys at brunch. $$ B Br L f COLD SMOKE BAGELS 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 309-4269. Four kinds every day, with a schmear of your choice. Bagels, sandwiches and the weekend brunch highlights latkes. $ B Br L f
p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining
RED = Advertiser
EV'S DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 614-6300. A cozy downtown deli located in the Hilliard-Lyons building. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ L FIREHOUSE SUBS 215 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-3473, 4905 Outer Loop, 749-4257. This national chain touts that they steam their meat and cheese sandwiches. Specialty subs carry out the Firehouse theme and the kids meals include a little fire helmet. $ L D FRANK'S MEAT & PRODUCE 3342 Preston Hwy., 3633989. Frank’s has been around a long time, treating those in the know to piled-high deli sandwiches for prices so reasonable it might seem you stepped into a time warp. There are steaks and chops and produce and other groceries, but it is best known for lunchtime service, where the long lines move fast, and the constant turnover ensures freshness of sandwiches and soups. $ L D GALAN'S MEAT MARKET & DELI 2801 W. Market St., 614-8514. This old-school butcher shop also offers piledhigh deli sandwiches and sides such as German potato salad or sour cream macaroni and cheese salad. Eat-in at the handful of small tables or take away. $$ B L D HARVEY’S CHEESE 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), (512) 269-8127. Lots of cheeses to choose from over the counter. At lunch, grilled cheese sandwiches (as exotic as you want) and daily blackboard specials. Call ahead to reserve an artistically-arranged and tasty party tray of cheese, charcuterie and fruit. $$ L D f HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-6001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany IN, 941-9426. Before holidays, you go in and carry out huge spiral-sliced hams or turkey breasts or beef roasts for your own parties. In the off season, you sit down in the café and order generous, filling sandwiches made from those same meats, served on rolls or croissants, cold
or with a hot cheese melt. Soup and salads too. And cookies. $ L D f JASON’S DELI 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 896-0150, 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101. Don’t look for a New York kosher-style deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ L D f JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 1983 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-1384, 3013 Poplar Level Rd., 263-7002. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that include cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ L D f JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP (11 Locations) This national sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ L D f LADY TRON’S 147 E. Market St., New Albany, IN 7259510. Owner Summer Seig has created an eclectic sci-fi theme for her soup and sandwich diner. Outside is Lady Tron, a smiling robot with red hair and a yellow apron; inside, you can find seasonal soups and sandwiches. $ B LD LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 454-7831. Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semi-fast food. $ L D f LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago style hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a fair price. $ L D f LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. This familyowned pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 55
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:25 AM Page 56
and, of course, pasta has been in operation for 37 years now. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand three-deep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfy café, to eat that deli sandwich, or get coffee and dessert. $ L D f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-7200. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ L MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5610027. $ B L MCALISTER’S DELI (11 Locations) Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ L D MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 4581668. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare. $L PANERA BREAD CO. (10 Locations) Warm breads finishbaked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ BLDf PARNELLI'S CHICAGO EATERY 3548 E. 10th St., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0025. If you crave Windy City classics like Vienna Beef hot dogs with neon relish or wet Italian beef sandwiches with giardiniera, head to the Jeff suburbs for Chicago specialites, incuding Greektown favorites like gyros and falafel. $ L D f PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 896-8918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5070, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ L D PAYNE STREET BAKEHOUSE 225 S. Spring St., 8958323. Nancy’s Bagel Grounds has remodeled the space that had been Willingers Beer Depot after moving from its longtime digs on Frankfort Ave. Despite the name change, you can still get bagels and cream cheese with your coffee or juices as well as a breakfast sandwich called The Willinger. $ B L PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ L D POTBELLY SANDWICH SHOP 302 S. Fourth St., 5401100, 4023 Summit Plaza Dr., 420-9616, 9018 Taylorsville Rd., 290-4820. This local outpost of the Chicago chain offers substantial sandwiches, salads and even breakfast sandwiches and oatmeal both to the downtown lunch crowd along Fourth St., and out at the Summit in the eastern suburbs. $ L D f QUIZNO’S SUBS 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7849. Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ L f
SOUPY’S 3027 Hunsinger Ln., 451-5325. Back in 1987, Danny Bowling’s mother-in-law, Bette, started making pots of soup in a corner of Bowling's Meats & Deli, a family courtesy that led in 1995 to Soupy’s. Now it’s about 2 million cups of soup later, by Soupy’s estimate, all using Bette’s recipes, cooked up in small batches daily. Salads, sandwiches (including veggie burgers) and sweets as well. $LD STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 584-3354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ L SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075. The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing menu. $ L D SWEET PEACHES 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 3560232. Breakfast, sandwiches and soups are what you will find at this West End spot. And don’t overlook fresh baked goodies like brownies and cookies or the chance to wash them down with peach-flavored sweet tea. This also is the location of the monthly Sweet Peaches Poetry Slam. $BLD THE BLOCK GOURMET DELI 14041 Shelbyville Rd., 785-4689. A husband and wife team with considerable experience in restaurants runs this Middletown deli. Fans report excellent thick sandwiches, fresh salads and homemade soups. Box lunches and catering also available. $$ L D THE SALAD CHIC 428 W. Market St., 650-4450. At this downtown lunch spot customers can build their own salads, salad and fruit kabobs or wraps, or choose from a prepared salad menu and changing daily soups. $$ L f THELMA’S DELI 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 5895200. Located in the glassed-in walkway (conservatory) between the two hotel towers, Thelma’s provides breakfast items, coffee, sandwiches and snacks 24/7 for Galt House guests and anyone else who needs, say, a pizza at 3 a.m. $$ B L D TOONERVILLE DELI 1201 S. First St., 635-6960. Here you will find a full panoply of signature sandwiches (including breakfast sandwiches), soups and salads and beer on draft, or in bottles or cans. $$ L D pf TORINO'S SANDWICH BAR 821 E. Market St., 785-6800. Torino’s is one of two additions to NuLu Marketplace. An Italian-style deli, Torino’s offers Italian, roast beef and meatball subs, artichoke & eggplant panini, salads, deli counter items, and grab & go items. It is also a front for its sister business, Gertie’s Whiskey Bar. $$ L p VINAIGRETTE SALAD KITCHEN 203 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 205-9933. This Lexington-based modestly upscale salad restaurant offers locally sourced soups and salads and fresh lemonade. The menu includes the Bluegrass Blackberry salad; chicken taco and maki shrimp salads; and soups such as creamy tomato and sausage, kale and potato. Be sure to try one of three fresh lemonades on offer daily. $$ L D
SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 425-8447. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ B L D f
WHICH WICH? 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 290-3721, 221 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 708-2535, 13124 W. Hwy 42, 2280621, 3531 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 920-0637. The concept here is “create your own sandwich” and draws on 50 toppings choices including sauerkraut, roasted red peppers, crispy onion strings, and hummus. The subs are the draw, but they also have wraps, gyros and now a variety of shakes. $$ B L D
SEEDS AND GREENS NATURAL MARKET & DELI 207 W. First St., New Albany IN, 944-3800. Browse among the organic vegetables and health foods, and stop by the deli for soups and salads, hot and cold sandwiches, vegan, vegetarian and omnivore preparations. $ L D
BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner
56 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
of Brook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ B L D BURGER GIRL 3334 Frankfort Ave., 709-5454. Dan Borsch, who owns the Old Louisville Tavern, Toonerville Tavern and Burger Boy Diner, has expanded into Crescent Hill. Burger Girl, in the former Bluegrass Burgers space, is a 24-hour burger grill, the sister to long-time somnambulists’ favorite Burger Boy. $$ B L D f CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The open-faced roast beef sandwich, with mashed potatoes and brussels sprouts, is a F&D favorite. $ L D pf COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 244-9497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ L COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Longtime neighborhood fixture Cottage Inn has a bright new look, and continues happily doling out the kind of excellent down-home food it has served since 1929. $ L D D. NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 618-2429. The nostalgia here is almost palpable. The interior has been upgraded, but changed as little as possible. The food offerings continue to be diner standards, like what was served when it first opened 50+ years ago. $ B L D DAVE & PEG’S COPPER KETTLE 276 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 256-4257. $ B L D EXECUTIVE BISTRO 1930 Bishop Ln. (Watterson Towers) 365-2848. This bright little spot provides grilled sandwiches, soups, salads and snacks to office workers in Watterson Towers. $ B L FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930. Steamtable service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ L D pf FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 742-2478. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in downhome comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $LD GASLIGHT DINER 10509 Watterson Trl., 694-2322. The owners of Mac’s Dough House did some research and decided that one more pizza place was more than J’town needed, so they have converted their space to a diner: all day breakfast, lunchtime specials and comfort food dinners to appeal to all ages. $$ B Br L D f GERALDINE’S KITCHEN 402 Wall St., Jeffersonville IN, 924-7707. Geraldine is the late mother of owner/chef Bob Hoyland; Geraldine’s Kitchen is a tribute to her sense of hospitality. Breakfast and lunch are served in an inviting, homey atmosphere. $ B L GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 339-8070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ B Br L D LIL' WAGNERS 4520 Poplar Level Rd., (Derby City Gaming), 961-7600. A sit-down restaurant when you need a break from betting. Burgers and sandwiches (including fried bologna), starters like nachos, fried pickles and crab cakes, and soups and salads. Also a graband-go menu of wraps, sandwiches and desserts. $ L D LINDSAY'S KITCHEN 5300 Cane Run Rd., 384-4823. Good ol' southern hospitality and home-made food are
B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:25 AM Page 57
the draws at this modest place in the far southwest of the city. The menu includes chicken-fried steak, meatloaf and liver and onions. $ B L D METRO DINER 4901 Outer Loop, 357-0767. The first local outlet of this Florida-based chain features "classic comfort food with flair.” Harking back to the glory days of diners, Metro Diner offers breakfast, lunch and dinner menus all day long. Signature dish is fried chicken and waffles, with burgers, seafood and salads also available. $$ B L D O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites, available from breakfast to dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $ B L D p WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800. A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round. Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ B L
ADA'S KITCHEN AND CATERING 214 W. Broadway, 561-3762. $ L BOOK & BOURBON SOUTHERN KITCHEN 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). This library-themed concept at this upscale, airport dining venue offers more than 100 bourbons, along with a classic craft cocktail list. The food menu tweaks Southern comfort food with items such as fried green tomato Benedict and buttermilk fried chicken and waffles. $$ B L D p CASK SOUTHERN KITCHEN & BAR 9980 Linn Station Rd., 614-6499. The former SOU! Southern Kitchen & Bar has been reconceptualized as, as one customer called it, a “Bbq plus restaurant.” Gumbo, Brunswick stew, grit fritters and pulled pork nachos, dry rubbed oak-smoked ribs, smoked meatloaf sandwich (served hot or cold) and buttermilk Southern fried chicken sandwich are among the new items on the menu. $$$ D p DADDY VIC'S SOUL FOOD 4444 Cane Run Rd., 3653631, 426 Pearl St. (Elks Lodge), New Albany IN (812) 945-8111. The daily specials here cycle through the soulfood lexicon: smothered pork chops, Bar-B-Que ribs, fried catfish, chicken and dumplings, and on Sundays, baked chicken or pot roast. $$ L D p DASHA BARBOUR’S SOUTHERN BISTRO 2217 Steier Ln., 882-2081, 217 E. Main St. Dasha’s certainly gives the “bistro” concept a down-home Southern twist. Serving familiar home-style fried chicken and fish, a vegetable plate with three sides choices, burgers, pork chop sandwich, and chicken wings. Sides include sweet potato casserole studded with pecans, fried corn on the cob and collard greens. The new Main Street location now serves alcohol. $$ B L D p FLO'S HOUSE OF SOUL 3400 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 742-3065. You order at the window and eat on the patio, which has heaters for cooler weather and TVs for watching big games. Owner Jason Hatcher tries to do good for his community, offering food rewards to kids with good report cards. Choices include burgers, chili dogs, Philly cheesesteaks, whiting and catfish sandwiches, nachos and ice cream. $$ Br D pf FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ L D FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 448-8044. Long-time fans of Jay’s Cafeteria (including politicians and national entertainers) are no longer bereft. Jay’s former owners serve up Southern Soul food in Shively at family-friendly prices. Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $ L D FRY DADDY’S 1991 Brownsboro Rd., 742-4596, 1270 S. Preston St., 384-4012. Here, you start with a plate of fries
p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining
RED = Advertiser
topped with Monterey Jack cheese. Then you can choose from 7 protein additions such as fried chicken, pulled pork, vegan chicken, snow crab and lobster. And then, you can choose from 12 sauces and other toppings before leave the building. $$ L D FUN FOOD KITCHEN & DELI 4106 Murphy Ln., 3292266. This East End strip mall soul food outlet has it all: jumbo chicken wings and tenders, pork ribs and rib tips, fish, sandwiches, home-cooked sides, peach cobbler and banana pudding. $ L D f LUCRETIA’S KITCHEN 1812 West Muhammad Ali Blvd. (Chef Space), 294-8143. It’s Wing Wednesday, Rib Tip Thursday, Fried Fish Friday and Soul Food Sunday at this ambitious little startup operating in the business incubator in the near West End. $$ Br L D MATTIE'S KITCHEN 1018 S. 15th St., (St. Stephens Family Life Center), 544-8954. Open Wednesdays and Fridays for lunch and dinner, and Sundays for afterchurch dining. The flexible menu can list fried or baked chicken, pork chops, mac n’ cheese, spaghetti and meatballs, and on Fridays, catfish is a special. $ Br L PO-Z'S KITCHEN 6801 Dixie Hwy., 883-0073. Pleasure Ridge Park residents in need of chicken wings, fried fish and side dishes like fried cabbage, mixed greens and sweet baked beans can find them here. Desserts too, like banana pudding and honey bun cake. $$ L D p SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. This Smoketown institution draws hungry locals as well as celebrities in town hungry for the soul food of their youth. BBQ ribs and hot-water cornbread cooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chicken wings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley Mae Beard’s spice rack — salt and pepper. $ L D SOUL FOOD DINING 4900 Poplar Level Rd., 915-8239. A cafeteria-style restaurant that offers all that a soul food fan would want: BBQ chicken, meatloaf, ribs, pork chops (with or without gravy), catfish, buffalo, and whiting, mac and cheese, mashed potatoes, greens, green beans, sweet potatoes and slaw. $$ L D SOUTHERN EXPRESS 418 W. Oak St., 963-1719. This well-known West End carryout spot has moved into a sitdown location in Old Louisville. There, classic soul food is served for eat-in or takeout and at rock-bottom prices. Diners build their own meal at $1 per item. Choices vary daily, but look for fried chicken, cooked cabbage, fried whiting, pork roast, fried or smothered pork chops, mac and cheese and rib tips. $ L D f SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY 3402 W. Broadway, 8221474. A family sports bar that satisfies all ages with its homey atmosphere and its well-crafted familiar food like double cheeseburgers, fried chicken with hot water cornbread, catfish, wings and ribs. $ L D p SUE'S TOUCH OF COUNTRY 2605 Rockford Ln., 4505059. Sue’s provides Shively with the kind of “stick to your ribs” food you go to a country/family style restaurant for. Daily Specials, homemade desserts and breakfast served all day. $ B L D THE BLACK JOCKEYS LOUNGE 630 S. Fourth St., 5870526. Most recently this downtown space was Encore on 4th. Now, in partnership with the Project to Protect African-American Turf History, Black Jockeys Lounge celebrates the history of Black jockeys. Waitstaff wear jockey-inspired uniforms and the menu features items the jockeys may have ordered themselves: chicken and waffles, jerk chicken, prime rib, fried catfish and bread pudding. $$ Br L p V-GRITS 1025 Barret Ave., 742-1714. Vegan food truck VGrits has settled down in the busy corner on the border of Germantown and the Highlands. Co-owner Kristina Addington defines her vegan menu as “southern comfort food, stick to your ribs, healthy junk food.” She has recently taken over False Idol Brewery, which shared the space, and rebranded it as Chimera Brewing Co. $$ L D pf
VIBES RESTAURANT & ULTRA LOUNGE 1346 River Rd., 568-6691. This sleek, chic, eclectic music and food venue is in the former Relish building. Vibes serves bar bites such as burgers and sandwiches, appetizers, loaded hot dogs and entrees like wings, tenders, shrimp and fish at lunch, brunch and dinner. $$ Br L D p
CRAVINGS ALA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 584-6846. This thrifty deli offers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-and-salad bar and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes and a monthly ethnic creation. $ L GOLDEN CORRAL 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville IN. 9137577. Now cafeteria style family dining at one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ B L D
ABOUT TIME BAR AND GRILL 12406 La Grange Rd. At this suburban sports bar and grill you can find casual fare like fried cod, fish and steak tacos and Philly cheesesteaks. The bar serves an extensive cocktail menu, beer and wine. $ L D pf AVENUE BAR 2354 Frankfort Ave., 709-5176. The handsome renovations to this little house is a great addition to the bustling Frankfort Avenue corridor. With a neighborhood bar vibe, well-made cocktails and a fusion bar food menu featuring tacos from around the world, it’s well worth the visit. $$ L D pf B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd.(Oxmoor Center), 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Center. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ L D p BARRELHOUSE ON MARKET 1005 W. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-6373. Andrew and Michelle Collins renovated a down-to-the-heels dive bar into a spiffy, lively drinking establishment and music venue with a small, tasty menu: a slider assortment, buffalo and BBQ wings, pretzels and queso. $$ D pf BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 409-9422. Lively music offerings and excellent barbecue have made this Lower Highlands bar and grill a satisfying place to dine. The BBQ comes as pulled chicken, pork and brisket in sandwiches or full dinners. $ D pf BEEF O’BRADY’S 241 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St., 6373737, 11324 Preston Hwy., 969-5559, 105 LaFollette Ct., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1316. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ L D f BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 893-4487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ L D pf BROWNIE’S THE SHED GRILLE & BAR 9900 Linn Station Rd., 326-9830, 826 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 920-0030. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Brown used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his two sports pubs, the area’s official homes for Cincinnati Bengals fans. $ L D pf BUBBA'S 33 4631 Medical Plaza Way, Clarksville IN, 2845933. The 12th location of the growing chain from the guys at Texas Roadhouse, Bubba’s is a family friendly sports bar with TVs galore and corn hole boards on the patio. The menu offers chicken with two types of bacon, chili-rubbed salmon, smoked chipotle wings, a spicy habanero burger and pizzas. $$ L D pf
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 57
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:26 AM Page 58
BUD’S TAVERN GOOD FOOD & BARBECUE 4014 Dixie Hwy., 384-9131, 9119 Galene Dr., 409-6066. This well-established Shively tavern has added a second location in Jeffersontown. It’s noted for excellent service and honest bar food that consistently receives high praise. Signature dishes — “gently fried” grouper, burgers (including a Reuben burger), as well as burritos and barbecue — are now available at both locations. $ L D pf BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area boasts 23 HDTVs including a 5- by 7foot HD projector for 3D football viewing, a game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ L D pf COMMON HAUS (see listing under European / German) DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 8957513, 630 Barret Ave., 690-7040. St. Matthews’ newest restaurateur star, Jared Matthews, began his career here, revitalizing this neighborhood institution for a new generation. Both locations (the second at the old silos on the edge of downtown) are major music venues. The food is just what happy concert-goers look for: pizza, burgers, wings, beer cheese, sandwiches and wraps.$ L D pf DRAKE’S 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 614-7327, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr., 384-3921, 2651 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4096130. Lexington-based Bluegrass Hospitality Group has three local outlets that offer twenty-four craft beers on tap to wash down the traditional pub grub of tacos, ribs and — these days — sushi. Family-friendly by day and a hoppin’ spot at night, with music videos and a DJ. $$ L D pf DUNDEE TAVERN 2224 Dundee Rd., 458-6637. After a few flips and changes, Dundee Tavern has found its soul again as a neighborhood bar. A lot of beer choices on draft and in bottles, and a comfort food menu that includes wings and fingers, fried pickles, chili, burgers and sandwiches and Tavern Specialties like grilled flat iron steak and southern-fried cod. $$ L D pf FALLS CITY TAPROOM 901 E. Liberty St., 257-7147. This historic brand that was first brewed in 1905 has been revived (2010) and re-imagined as a modern craft beer. Now you can sip on their offerings at their new taproom and beer garden operating just east of downtown where Phoenix Hill and NuLu merge. Food is also offered tableside from the adjacent Bandido Taqueria Mexicana. $$ L D pf FIRST STRING BAR AND GRILL 5921 New Cut Rd., 366-0049. This South End sports bar offers pizza, baked spaghetti, fried bologna sandwiches and Cajun dry rub chicken wings. $$ L D p THE FLAMINGO LOUNGE 119 S. Seventh St., 653-7577. This speakeasy-style bar (in the basement space below ATG Sandwich Emporium) features a broad Bourbon selection, signature cocktails at a moderate price point, and a diverse music lineup, anchored by artist-inresidence Ben Sollee every Thursday. $$ D p FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 585-3700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ L D pf GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616. A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ L D pf GERTIE'S WHISKEY BAR 821 E. Market St., 785-6800. Nashville chef (and Louisville native) Matt Bolus has opened a second location of his popular Gertie's Whiskey Bar, hidden away, speakeasy-style, behind Torino's Sandwich Bar; both businesses are part of Nashville-based Red Pebble Hospitality. Bolus has hand-picked 11 single barrel selections to augment the 100+ bottles of whiskey in stock. $$$ D p f 58 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
GOLD BAR 1601 Story Ave., 749-0002. Taking over the space vacated by Butchertown Social, Gold Bar focuses on sustainable practices: drinks will be served with biodegradable straws and menus will primarily be on LCD screen displays. The food menu offers bar fare: burgers, wings and fries, along with multiple vegan and vegetarian menu options and rotating specials. $ D pf GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 636-2748. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ L D p GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton Garden Inn), 637-2424. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ Br D pf HARBOR AND HOPS 3010 Gottbrath Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 748-2622. This expanding franchise operation offers local and regional craft beers, draught wines (served out of the barrel), hard ciders and kombucha. Let their cicerone lead you to beverage pairings with their familiar, hearty pub menu – lots of burgers, beer cheese soup, salads and sandwiches, and a limited entree selection. $$$ L D pf HARRY’S TAPHOUSE & KITCHEN 130 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN., 725-1111. Harry's, named after owner Tony Revak's son, takes over a riverfront patio (previously occupied by Flat 12 Bierwerks). Executive Chef Tyler Vogt’s southern Creole cuisine — cast iron chicken, frog legs, intercultural hybrids like a Creole catfish po’boy topped with kimchi aioli — is paired up with craft beer, Bourbon and great views. $$ L D pf HELL OR HIGH WATER 112 W. Washington St., 5873057. The entrance is through Hello Curio, an ostensible arts and crafts gallery. Downstairs is the main bar in a twostory library with a mezzanine floor, looking out onto a small live entertainment area. Craft cocktails are bourbonfocused but not exclusively. There is a small bites menu, but drinks are the center of the “speakeasy” experience. $$ Dp HIGHLANDS TAPROOM GRILL 1058 Bardstown Rd., 584-5222. Another nice choice for beer and bar food along the B’town Rd. corridor, but owner Tommy Clemons’ menu includes, but extends beyond, the usual beer cheese, chili and burgers. Look for the crabby patty or the French toast sausage. The pulled pork spring rolls are on their way to becoming legendary. $$ L D pf HILLCREST TAVERN 3212 Frankfort Ave., 290-6917. Dan Borsch, who runs several Old Louisville spots like Burger Boy Diner and Old Louisville Tavern, has expanded into Clifton with this renovation of a long-time neighborhood watering hole. The menu mirrors that of Old Louisville Tavern, with burgers, sandwiches, appetizers and a few entrée items. A vintage 100-year old bar will anchor the nostalgic ambiance. $$ L D pf HILLTOP TAVERN 1800 Frankfort Ave., 742-2908. The Skelton brothers (John is an alum of Seviche) have settled in at this prime Clifton location. Their tavern fare is focused on barbecue, with pulled pork and beer-butt chicken specialties, along with hefty sandwiches (their meatloaf is a standout). $ D p HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 239-4724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ L D pf HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at
this friendly neighborhood spot that boasts 3 different steak sandwiches, along with pizza, burgers and chicken. $ L D pf INTERNATIONAL TAP HOUSE 637 E. Main St. The St. Louis-based chain has opened on the ground floor of the Main & Clay apartment building. Not a brewery, but a purveyor of hundreds of craft beers, ciders and a limited selection of wine. Patrons are invited to bring in food from neighboring businesses. $$ p f JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 449-4940. $BLDf KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern, a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978, offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and soups. The hamburgers, though, might be the best unpretentious burgers in town: freshly ground daily, always cooked perfectly, and served on a toasted bun. $ L D pf KHALIL’S 10966 Dixie Hwy., 632-2227. A family sports bar in Valley Station boasts plenty of TVs, including some tabletop TVs in booths. Menu presents the usual bar food suspects — salads, wings, burgers — but the burgers are on pretzel buns. $ L D p LEGENDS CAFÉ 2602 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, (812) 920-0786. This small, family-owned cafe, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, with $1 beer every day. Daily specials rotate monthly, and Fridays are a fish-only menu. $BLDp LOUISVILLE INTERNATIONAL PUB 5343 Mitscher Ave. 384-3952. A neighborhood bar with an international focus. Eclectic bar food options cover the globe with dinner and sandwich options like nachos, chili, falafel, poppers, burgers, kabobs, and shawarma.$ L D p MG'S PRIME TIME CAFÉ 7017 Global Dr., 333-0719. If you find yourself hungry on the far Southwest side of town, this café can satisfy with appetizers like jalapeño poppers or fried pickles, burgers built your way, or an range of sandwich options. $ L D pf NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere, has expanded their craft beer selection. The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily. Breakfast served until 2 p.m. $$ Br L D p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ L D pf OLD HICKORY INN 1038 Lydia St., 634-3011. John Murrow, long involved with Check’s Café, has re-opened this iconic Germantown bar, setting out to return the troubled property to its historic role as a quintessential neighborhood dive bar. $ L D p OLD LOUISVILLE TAVERN 1532 S. Fourth St., 409-6281. It’s risen from the ashes, the interior gutted and redone, a new kitchen installed, but the menu is the same as before: top-flight bar grub made from scratch. An expanded beer program with 16 new taps includes a selection of local and craft beers. $$ L D pf O-LINE SPORTS GRILL 2813 N Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3846171. You can watch every game, every sport all year long, they claim. While you do, you can chow down a variety of bar food, such as the juicy Lucy cheese burger or nacho burger. The kids might like the mini-footballs, franks encased in pastry dough, fried and served with dipping sauces. $ L D p PEARL STREET TAPHOUSE 407 Pearl Street, Jeffersonville IN, 285-0890. Located in an historic home that was saved through a preservation grant, this pub has 24 taps with a heavy focus on local breweries, with regional and national choices as well. Food choices range from pizzas to bacon-wrapped dates to corned beef grilled
B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:26 AM Page 59
cheese sandwiches. Everything is fresh and nothing is deep-fried. $ L D p f PINTS&UNION 114 E. Market St., New Albany IN., 9134647. Beer maven (and F&D contributor) Roger Baylor and partner Joe Phillips have renovated an old neighborhood bar, where the taps dispense familiar quality beers and ales, the bar crafts interesting cocktails and the bottled beer selection skews toward Belgian ales. The small kitchen offers pub-inspired small plates with an Indian accent. $ L D p PORCH KITCHEN & BAR 280 W. Jefferson St. (Marriott), 671-4246. As part of the recent renovation of the Marriott, this all-day restaurant replaces Champions Sports Grill. The name reflects the intention of the new restaurant to be a homey, welcoming downtown spot. Look for American-style comfort foods and a friendly bar. B Br L D pf
unusually named upscale-casual restaurants. Enjoy Italian pizza rolls, stuffed potatoes, salads, “double-grind” burgers, wings, pizza, wraps and craft beer on the expansive deck or around the community pool, or join one of the competitive leagues in euchre, corn hole or volleyball. $$ L D pf THE LIBRARY 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. By day, the Library serves coffee, lattes and tea along with freshly baked pastries. By late afternoon, it morphs into a bourbon bar with locally inspired cocktails. $ B L p THE PALM ROOM 1821 W. Jefferson St., 581-1251. The classic West End entertainment and dining spot is back, with a variety of special nights – Tuesday comedy, Thursday ladies’ night, Sunday brunch and jazz at night. The menu focuses on wings, salads and dinner specials. $$ D p
RECBAR 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 509-3033, 336 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 670-5234. Family fun is the object here, with games galore: pool and ping-pong, skeeball, arcade games (for Nintendo, Sega Genesis, Super NES) and card and board games. A full bar and pub-style food, too. $$ L D pf
THE PEARL 1151 Goss Ave., 996-7552. The Pearl aims to be a classic neighborhood pub (not unlike Pauly’s, which it replaces). It also aims to be a spirits-focused hangout, with a bar menu limited to snacks like pickled eggs, country ham and cheese sandwiches and free popcorn or roasted nuts. In the works is a permanent food truck to be parked in the rear to expand food offerings. $$ L D pf
RIVER CITY DRAFTHOUSE 1574-1/2 Bardstown Rd., 6905111. Another beer joint along the Bardstown Road corridor boasts more than 20 taps focused on independent, American, craft beer (in sample, half-pint and pint sizes) and several bottled options. Its limited (for now) bar menu has garnered early praise for its wings. $$ L D f
THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-1400. This Cordish-owned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ L D pf
ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoal-grilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ L D pf
THE WATER COMPANY 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. There is a 3rd-floor rooftop pool at the new Omni Hotel, and this is the bar that goes with it, also offering seasonally-inspired light bites. $$ L D p f
SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ L D pf
THIRSTY HOUND SPORTS BAR 7207 Fegenbush Ln., 919-7003. This Fern Creek hangout offer all that a sports fan could want: wings and ribs, nachos, potato skins, fried pickles, sandwiches, pork chops and steaks. $$ L D pf
SCOOTER'S TRIPLE B’S 3840 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 749-3138. The three Bs are for burgers, beer, and ballgames. Choose from three kinds of buns and six meat fillings. The menu includes chicken, pizza and 1/4 pound hot dogs too. $$ L D f
TIM TAM TAVERN 1022 Clarks Ln., 883-0101. Named for the 1958 Kentucky Derby winner, the Schnitzelburg/ Audubon neighborhood bar has a new look and a kitchen that serves bar staples like burgers, fried pickles and cheese curds plus pizza from Danny Mac’s Pizza. (Dan McMahon, owner of Danny Mac’s Pizza, is a partner.) $ L D p f
SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337. Despite minimal signage, Sergio’s Butchertown digs pull in his fans, who dig the quirky website, and the whole aura of haughty mystery. What you really need when you locate the place is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ D SHOPBAR 950 Barret Ave., 709-4696. The former gas station has been converted into a small artisanal boutique and welcoming bar with a food truck — FoodShop at the rear. The menu rotates, but recently it included fried white fish, a pork jowl sandwich served on a pretzel bun, and mushroom tostadas. $ Br D pf TAVERN ON FOURTH 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 588-8888. This spacious sports bar adds to the festivities at Fourth Street Live. You will find plenty of games, filling upscale bar food and lots of drink choices at the bar. $$ D pf THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 451-0659. You need a bit of perseverance to track down this saloon on the back side of Mid-City Mall. When you do, you will find one of the city’s friendliest pubs, with a reputation for the best pour of drinks around. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ D pf THE EARL 109 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-2611. This bar offers craft cocktails and upscale bar food such as spicy pimento cheese with pretzel bread, cheese and charcuterie boards, and roasted cauliflower with bleu cheese. $$ D p THE GOAT 700 Landis Ridge Dr., 791-8325. Ohio-based LC Lifestyle Communities operates this small chain of
p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining
RED = Advertiser
TIN ROOF 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1914. This Nashvillebased chain in the heart of St. Matthews has a split personality: a family-friendly vibe during the lunch hours; and a rockin’ juke joint at night with live music until 3 a.m. Its menu encompasses everything you expect from bar grub: deep-fried hot dogs, hot wings, quesadillas and salads for the ladies. $ L D pf TOASTY'S TAVERN 1258 S. Shelby St., 614-7094. An addition to the Germantown bar scene, Toasty’s addresses the needs of late night hungry imbibers with cheeseburgers and breakfast sandwiches, loaded fries, and a vegan hot dog. Signature cocktails include watermelon mint margarita and flavored daiquiris. $ D pf TROLL PUB UNDER THE BRIDGE 150 W. Washington St., 618-4829. On the downslope alongside the Clark Memorial Bridge, a large troll beckons the adventurous into a space excavated out of the lost space in the old whiskey warehouse. The renovation boasts lots of dark, brick-walled spaces, as well as a funky outdoor dining area in the lightwell. The menu offers stacked sandwiches, bison burgers and sweet potato tots, and ribeye steaks. $$ L D pf UNION RESTAURANT & GAMEYARD 115 W. Chestnut St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-1285. Those wanting more fun as well as some food after strolling across the Big Four bridge can find both here, near the bridge’s Indiana-side off-ramp. Burgers, of course, and brisket, pork belly and brined chicken breast sandwiches. After eating, play iceless curling, four-way volleyball, cornhole or pingpong. $$ L D pf www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 59
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:26 AM Page 60
WILD HOPS BOURBON BAR & LOUNGE 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 384-2001. The name speaks to the range of offerings at this bar inside the Logan Street Market. The on-site brewery crafts its own beer, and there is an extensive cocktail menu and a large selection of bourbons and other whiskeys. $$ B L D p f ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, the arcade is stocked with vintage games and topflight live music plays late into the night. The chow several days a week is created by Yeon Hee Chung, owner of the former Charim Korean restaurant. $ L D pf
AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 5150174. Slugger Field once again has a beer-pub. The owners, veterans of the local brewing revival, have worked out an ambitious rotating beer selection and a smokehouse theme for the kitchen, with an emphasis on seasonal dishes. $$ L D pf APOCALYPSE BREW WORKS 1612 Mellwood Ave., 7420090. Veteran home brewers Leah Dienes, Paul Grignon and Bill Krauth run this brewery in Butchertown, dedicated to fresh craft beer in a space that heats with solar, recycles and reuses materials and grains. Their taproom, dubbed The Fallout Shelter, serves up to 10 of their concoctions. $ f ATRIUM BREWING 1154 Logan St., 690-3069. The Shelby Park neighborhood is definitely on the upswing: it now has a local brewery. Atrium’s first efforts include a hazy IPA, coffee stouts in collaboration with Bean on Goss Ave. and fruit-infused tart ales. Brick & Mortar food truck provides a beer-focused menu. $ L D p f BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 300 W. Main St., 562-0007. BBC, one of the first, if not the first, craft breweries in town, continues to produce their beers and ales here, and to feed upscale bar food to hardy souls who come downtown for entertainment. The Theater Square outlet at 600 S. 4th St. has been closed since the beginning of the pandemic. We are de-listing that outlet and look forward to reinstating that location in the future. $$ L D pf DONUM DEI BREWERY 3211 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 590-2478. Owner Rick Otey maintains that beer is a gift from god, hence the name of his craft brewery. The interior is starkly Scandinavian modern. A distilling permit has made it the area’s first “brewstillery.” $ L D p FISTFUL OF ALE 2708 Paoli Pk., New Albany IN, 5570226. The bar attached to A Fistful of Tacos offers 20 or so taps of a wide variety of “strong-flavored” craft beers such as IPAs, stouts and porters, and unusual lagers. $$ D pf FLOYD COUNTY BREWING CO. 129 W. Main St., New Albany IN, (470) 588-2337. Walk in this new brewpub and you will find what looks like a medieval banquet hall, but scaled down to a Yorkshire public house. Brewer Jeff Coe’s repertoire includes Braun Jovi (Brown Ale), Hefe’ns Gate Hefeweizen and Vlad’s India Pale Ale, which complement perfectly menu items like fish and chips and oversized turkey legs. $ L D GALLANT FOX BREWING 2132 Frankfort Ave., 8221988. Located in that odd Clifton intersection of Frankfort Ave., New Main St. and the railroad tracks, this brewery concocts things like blood orange blonde ale, Space Force IPA and mango-guava American pale ale. Ten guest taps feature regional brews. $$ D pf GORDON BIERSCH BREWERY RESTAURANT 400 S. Fourth St., 589-8935. The growing national brewery and restaurant chain has become an anchor at the corner location at 4th and Liberty, brewing their characteristic German-style bottom-fermented lagers, Hefeweizen, bocks, pilsners and Schwarzbiers. The large menu offers the usual pub-grub, but touted as fresh, seasonal and made on the premises. $$$ Br L D pf 60 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
GRAVELY BREWING CO. 514 Baxter Ave., 822-3202. Gravely offers 14 draft choices, all brewed and served on site. The brewery partners with Mayan Street Food, run by The Mayan Café. Walk up to the truck and order snacks like guacamole, fried plantains, Mexican corn, salbutes or tacos. Brunch on Sunday is provided by Commonwealth Cure with items like pork hash, Scotch eggs, or pork sliders. Plus, a full brunch drink selection. $ L D pf GREAT FLOOD BREWING CO. 2120 Bardstown Rd, 2080882, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 208-0882. The original Douglass Loop location is just a taproom, with no food service. The Middletown taproom occupies a former Wick’s Pizza complete with a kitchen that offers pizza and other pub fare made on site. $$ L D pf
located near the new soccer stadium. First offerings include Storyteller Hazy IPA, Woodland Gardens American Pale Ale, Stockyards Porter and 1834 Lager. A variety of food options are provided by Happy Belly Bistro, Black Rock Grille and MozzaPi. $$ L D p f UPLAND BREWING CO. 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 750-1234. This Hoosier brewing operation has opened a southern outlet on the Ohio River, taking over the former Buckhead’s space, with its extensive pet-friendly patio overlooking the Louisville skyline. A full range of craft beer styles is on offer, along with a menu of hearty bar-food standards — pizza, sandwiches, burgers, wings, bison meatballs and mussels. $$ Br L D p f
HI-WIRE BREWING 642 Baxter Ave., 717-4500. This Asheville-based brewery has opened its first out-of-state operation in the Lower Highlands. The bar has 21 taps of Hi-Wire beer, from a variety of IPAs to seasonal brews such as S’more porter to specialties such as honey lager and chocolate macaroon stout. Family-friendly activities on offer include soccer pool, table tennis, foosball, and shuffleboard. $ L D p f
WEST SIXTH NULU 817 E. Market St., 234-4733. West Sixth Brewing's newest taproom project includes a taproom, brewery, private event space & open air courtyard in the NuLu Marketplace on Market Street. $ L Dp f
HOMETOWN BREWING CO. 4041 Preston Hwy., 3634880. Tom Brown, partner in the Hometown Pizza chain, and high school friend Mark Allgeier, owner of the nowclosed Cumberland Brewery, have opened this craft brewery in the space where Brown has stored his car collection, which inspire the names of his beers. His goal is to make craft beer more accessible in small towns out in the state, where Hometown Pizza has 18 scattered locations. $$$ L D pf
DAVE & BUSTER'S 5000 Shelbyville Rd., (Mall St. Matthews), 963-0940. Fun galore with arcade, billiards, sports TVs, and a 16 page menu with surprising options for every special diet like flavorful lettuce wraps, the Impossible Burger and full entrees like steaks or salmon plus expected bar fare: nachos, sliders and wings. Desserts, beers and festive cocktails of impressive size, too. $$ L D p
MONNIK BEER CO. 1036 E. Burnett St., 742-6564, 415 Bank St., New Albany IN, 913-4259. This popular Germantown microbrewery has expanded across the river, taking over the space that once was New Albanian Brewing Co. The Euro-pub inspired menu includes three kinds of double-fried fries, pork and currant pie, and several burgers. Frequently changing guest taps join the house brews of Mild George and King George (British brown ales), His Dark Materials (stout) and Hauck’s American pilsner. $$ L D pf
DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinnertheater sweepstakes. The expansive seasonal buffet offerings have fans returning show after show. $$$ L D p HOWL AT THE MOON 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 562-9400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub featuring a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? You’ll find this 4,000-squarefoot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ D pf
OUR LADY OF PERPETUAL HOPS 300 Foundation Ct., New Albany IN. This brewery offers 12 taps (currently 8 house and 4 guest taps), as well as plenty of space for playing games like cornhole, darts, Jenga; pool, and video golf. If you work up an appetite, food trucks will tend your hunger on Friday and Saturday nights. $$ D
JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$$ L D pf
PUBLIC HOUSE BY AGAINST THE GRAIN 1576 Bardstown Rd., 409-9866. After almost 20 years of fine craft brewing, Cumberland Brews founder Mark Allgeier has passed the taps over to the guys at Against the Grain, who have redubbed the popular Highlands space the Public House. All the taps serve ATG brews (to-go growlers are available). The menu features pub grub with a twist, including burgers, paninis, pimento cheese balls and French onion soup. Brunches promise to be destination weekend events. $$ Br L D pf
MAIN EVENT BAR & GRILL 12500 Sycamore Station Pl., 240-5555. This Dallas-based chain offers plenty of fun: bowling, laser tag, a high ropes course, billiards, video games — along with pizzas, sandwiches, full dinners and a full bar. $$ L D p
RED YETI BREWING CO. 256 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. 288-5788. This craft brewery has an ambitious kitchen touting food so fresh in concept, they have no freezer. The brisket sandwich comes with house-made chips, the pork ribs are braised in wheat ale, and desserts include funnel cake with chocolate dipping fondue and a beer float: vanilla ice cream in your choice of porter or stout. $$ L D pf SHIPPINGPORT BREWING CO. 1221 W. Main St. 6902002. Owner and brewer Amelia Pillow located her new brewery in Portland to encourage beer drinkers to venture beyond their west-of-9th-Street comfort zone. Her first brewing efforts include an American IPA, an oaked Helles Bock, a Belgian IPA and an Imperial / Double Coffee stout, among others. The food menu is geared to panini-style sandwiches and vegetable side dishes. $ L D p TEN20 CRAFT BREWERY 1020 E. Washington St., 2906820. Butchertown now has its neighborhood brewery,
MESA 216 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 725-7691. Mesa calls itself a “collaborative kitchen-classroom,” in which local established and aspiring chefs offer cooking demonstrations and food prep advice for a small audience, who will then eat what the chefs prepare before them. There is also a boutique selling high-end cookware and food products. $$ D p MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ L D p OVRDRIVE GAMES 112 W. Jefferson St., 653-5853. Plenty of ways to have fun here: virtual reality car racing, ax throwing, rage rooms (where you can destroy TVs and home appliances), and immersive VR games. The food and beverages aren’t virtual though: made-to-order pizza, wings and appetizers, and a self-pour tap wall featuring 15 beers and 6 pre-mixed cocktail choices. $$ L D p
B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:26 AM Page 61
PIN + PROOF 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. The Omni’s bar has a cool angle. There are four bowling lanes, as well as hors d’oeuvres to enjoy in the “the opulent and mysterious atmosphere." $ D p THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275. The second floor theater continues to be a top local venue for all sorts of theater, improv and silly/hilarious roasts of toys (Barbie), computer game characters (Mario) and years (2017). Downstairs, the menu offers Shakespeare-themed items such as Sir Francis BBQ Bacon Burger and The Steakspeare. $$ D pf
ABYSSINIA 554 S. Fifth St., 384-8347. This downtown Ethiopian restaurant has gained many fans with its variety of hearty stews, known as “wots,” and interesting vegetarian choices, with large portions and reasonable prices. $ L D AFROKANZA LOUNGE 1578 Bardstown Rd., 379-5734. This Afro/Caribbean/soul food fusion restaurant and nightclub brings a new vibe to Bardstown Rd.’s restaurant row. Drinking and dancing till 4 am, with menu items like grilled red snapper and rice with peanut sauce to keep those late-night partiers fueled. $$ D p BARAKA RESTAURANT 519 W. Oak St., 822-3046. This all-halal restaurant serves African, Asian and Indian dishes. At the counter you pick a meat and choose an accompaniment of rice, bread or noodles. The fish curry with chapati and chicken saqaar with rice are good examples. Goat is often available for those who want to try something different. $ L D FUNMI’S AFRICAN RESTAURANT 3028 Bardstown Rd., 454-5009. Funmi’s offers a range of dishes from North and Central African cultures. Sample goat in a soup or a thick stew. Try soya, a West African shish kebab with a
p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining
RED = Advertiser
spicy peanut rub or moin-moin, a savory bean cake or lablabi, a Tunisian chickpea soup. $$ L D
good things about the garlic chicken and their crab Rangoon. $ L D
IMANKA RESTAURANT 737 S. Eighth St., (International Mall) 210-7503. Somali immigrant entrepreneur Mohamed Abbi Abdalla and his family serve their native cuisine at the International Mall. Suggested dishes include chicken suqaar (a chicken stew-like dish) or goat seasoned with onions and green peppers. $$ L D
A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582, 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D
QUEEN OF SHEBA 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ L D SENEGAMBIA AFRICAN RESTAURANT Bardstown Rd., 491-3152. $$ L D
4109
WOLOGISI RESTAURANT 3707 Klondike Ln., 883-0054. The space that was Alwatan is now a Liberian restaurant (goat soup; torborgee, a bean stew; palm butter with fufu) that also tempts American tastes with items like Philly cheesesteak and gyros, as well. $$ L D ZIBA’S BISTRO 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 7970633. The rich cuisine of his native Burkina Faso in Central West Africa is Chef Bapion Ziba’s main inspiration, but he brings elements of European and American flavors too. Tiguedigue chicken, cooked with vegetables in a peanut sauce, will be a signature dish. $$ LD
888 GREAT WALL 9464 Brownsboro Rd., 425-2811. Strip mall Chinese food is an accurate description of what to expect here. Locals from the neighborhood have said
ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9451888. Competent cookery and careful management ensures food offerings here stay fresh and hot. The name remains the same, but service is now cafeteria style, not self-serve buffet, a change done with customer health in mind. $ L D ASIAN WOK 2235 Frankfort Ave., 822-3385. This panAsian spot offers a very large selection of Chinese & Japanese dishes in the stir-fried, hibachi-grilled and sushi categories. A lot of familiar things — Kung Pao chicken, pepper steak with onion, veggie fried rice, rainbow roll, hibachi steak, and so on. $$ L D AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style, consistent commitment from the kitchen makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant al fresco dining experience. $$$ L D pf CHEER KING STAR 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. Just what downtown needed — a Chinese buffet for quick lunches. Mostly the familiar, a mix of Cantonese, Szechuan and Hunan choices for those who need a little spice to fire them up to get back to work. $ L D CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ L D CHINA 1 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D CHINA BISTRO 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ L D CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ L D
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021
61
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:26 AM Page 62
CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 969-9222, 9246 Westport Rd., 425-1818. $ L D CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ L D CHINA CHEF 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 384-5322. Pretty standard Chinese choices can be found at this new store in the South End. Eat in or carry out. $ L D CHINA COAST 4952 Manslick Rd., 363-4259. $ L D CHINA DRAGON 8507 Terry Rd., 995-9897. The far southwest corner of the city can get its Chinese table hot food fix here. $ L D CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ L D CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ L D CHINA STAR 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 896-1818. $ L D CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 284-5580. $ L D CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628, 6445 Bardstown Rd., 231-0393. $ L D CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. Fans of this somewhat funky Chinese place post positive notices about the quality of its food. No strange Asian dishes here, just familiar Chinese hot table fare that Americans recognize. $ L D CHUNG KING PALACE 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. Every neighborhood seems to need a Chinese steam table outlet serving up Asian dishes familiar to Americans. Double Dragon does that job for its neighborhoods. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3135 S. Second St., 3676668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 2675353.$LD DRAGON CAFÉ 13206 W. U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-1885. This Prospect-area Chinese restaurants offers many familiar dishes. East End fans say the service is quick and the food above-average tasty. $ L D DRAGON CITY 6413 Greenwood Rd., 935-6111. It used to be First Wok. It still is a strip mall Chinese-American place with a standard menu of crab Rangoon, fried rice, lo mein dishes, and a wide variety of stir-fries. $ L D EAST STAR BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $$ L D FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh Street Rd., 448-0588. $ L D GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $ L D GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3458 Taylor Blvd., 368-1833. $ L D GREAT WALL 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ L D GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fast-food Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of wordof-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargain-basement price. $ L D HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ L D HAPPY DRAGON 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8788. You guessed it: a good, go-to standard pan-China family-style restaurant in Jeffersontown that’s always there when you’re tired of cooking dinner for the clan. $ L D HIBACHI BUFFET 5372 Dixie Hwy., 449-8688. This far South Louisville Asian buffet gets strong positives from locals who appreciate its cleanliness, its range of choices (including hibachi grilled meats to order and sushi) and a buffet bar that is kept freshly loaded. $ L D p
62 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
HIBACHI SUSHI BUFFET 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788. Capitalizing on two seemingly persistent trends in American dining, this hot table place offers standard Chinese buffet dishes, and standard sushi choices. Cashew chicken, shrimp with garlic sauce, Dancing Dragon roll, spring and summer maki — it is all here. $$ LD HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 367-8828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check out the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ L D JADE PALACE 1109 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace offers familiar Chinese food choices, as well as a long list of Chef’s Specials, with names in Chinese characters as well as English (a sure sign you are in for authentic Chinese fare). Dim sum is offered daily, but on weekends it is served from a traditional rolling cart. $$ Br L D p JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. Like many Chinese restaurants, Jasmine is in a strip mall, but this is not just another hot table stir fry joint. There is an American menu, but those in the know will ask for the 14page Szechuan menu, featuring such interesting things as pig ear in sesame oil, hot and spicy intestines, spicy diced rabbit foot, frog legs, beef maw and tendon Szechuan style — one of the most popular choices, the manager said. $ L Dp JASMINE ASIAN BISTRO 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 618-3000. The owners of Jasmine Essential Chinese on English Villa Dr. have gone more upscale with this bistro-style location. Expect the same authentic Chengdu-style Sichuan cuisine (be adventurous!) and well-executed Americanized dishes, sushi and other offerings. $$ L D p
ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A long-time area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ L D PANDA EXPRESS 1075 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN 288-0774, 1232 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-8430, 13311 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3980, 10600 Westport Rd., 4251678. The Pentagon even has one of the 1500+ outlets of the nation’s largest Chinese fast food chains, and now we have four. Moderately priced chow such as orange chicken, Beijing beef, SweetFire chicken breast and honey walnut shrimp fill the menu. $ L D PEKING CITY EXPRESS 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 891-0388. A lot of familiar items on the menu here, but those in the know ask for a Chinese menu, and order the dumplings or the xiao long bao (steam bun with meat filling). Dishes are handsomely presented, and servings are large. $$ L D RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 3437 Breckinridge Ln., 499-7788. $ L D RICE BOX 6810 Southside Dr., 380-2209. This typical Chinese hot table provides South End residents with the kind of Chinese food you would expect at budget prices. $ L D SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 426-6767. Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ L D TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sit-down Chinese restaurant has a large and eclectic menu, with lots of spicy dishes and daily double shot specials at the inviting bar. Now offering delivery to Norton Commons and adjacent suburbia. $$ L D p
JOY LUCK 1285 Bardstown Rd., 238-3070, 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 618-1601. This fine Asian restaurant across from Mid-City Mall has opened a suburhan site too. Both serve familiar Chinese dishes very well done, as well as authentic Taiwanese offerings. Duck dishes are cooked in three different styles — Cantonese, Taiwanese and Beijing. $$ L D pf
YANG KEE NOODLE 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 245-9264. This locally owned and operated colorful and stylish fastcasual restaurant offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ L D f
JUJUBE AT LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que, the pan-Asian eatery on the conjunction of Bardstown and Baxter, has been sold, and now JujuBe at La Que has a rather standard Chinese take-out menu with a few of the original Thai/Vietnamese dishes rounding out the menu. $$ L D f
YOKI BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-2277. A Chinese food-oriented buffet, with sushi as well, offers more options near the Jeffersontown Industrial Park along the Blankenbaker Rd. corridor. $$ L D
JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 742-8550. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ L D LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ L D LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ L D ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and wooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $ L Df ORIENTAL CAFÉ 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ L D ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017. New owners continue the tradition at this long-standing St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional ChineseAmerican and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ L D p
YEN CHING 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ L D
AJI SUSHI AND ASIAN CUISINE 5610 Outer Loop, 6181781. Okolona area residents can now get their sushi fix. The extensive menu offerings include egg rolls, salads and soups, noodle, rice and curry dishes, and tempura, as well as a large variety of raw and cooked sushi preparations. $ LDp ARATA SUSHI 9207 U.S. 42, 409-4880. Arata is a dedicated sushi place, with only a few items that fall outside of the maki, nigri and sashimi offerings. The elegant modern interior, and the commitment to the freshest ingredients have been drawing in fans from beyond the East End. $$ L D p ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130. This small room in St. Matthews houses a neighborhood sushi spot that also serves grilled dishes and tempura. $ L D ASIANA SUSHI 6435 Bardstown Rd., 614-7244. This ambitious Asian restaurant in Fern Creek offers an extensive sushi selection, hibachi meals, various noodle choices and even a few Korean dishes such as bulgoki and bi bim bap. $$ L D p BENTO ASIAN KITCHEN + SUSHI 12951 Shelbyville Rd., 822-1202. Order from an assortment of teriyaki or fried bento boxes, rice or noodle bowls, poke bowls or sushi and sashimi at this ambitious Middletown newcomer. $$ L D p f
B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:26 AM Page 63
DAISUKI SUSHI 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 434-2395. This sushi stop has joined the eclectic graband-go choices in Logan Street Market’s restaurant row. $ LDp DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 6322444, 129 W. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-8600. Owner Toki Masubuchi’s eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists: pizza topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $ L D pf FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$LDp FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978. Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ L Dpf GINZA ASIAN BISTRO 9420 Shelbyville Rd., 749-8878. A one-stop Asian restaurant. Choose to eat from the Chinese, Japanese or Thai kitchen, or sidle up to the sushi bar for all manner of vegetarian or fish-focused rolls, or sushi combos that include miso soup and salad. A la carte sushi entrées too. $$ L D p HEART & SOY 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. To the left is Roots, a sit-down restaurant. To the right is Heart & Soy, serving vegetarian “street food,” and entertaining passers-by with a glass-walled tofu-making room. Stateof-the-art equipment from Taiwan transforms organic soy beans from Ohio into soy milk and then coagulates and presses it into tofu as you watch. $ L D HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651. Japanese-trained chef Norihiko Nakanashi brings his skills to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ L D p
OISHII SUSHI 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 365-3474. This small, attractive and popular sushi spot serves all the popular maki and nigri near Bowman Field. $$ L D OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing Clifton favorite also has a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ L D POKEHANA 436 W. Market St., 996-7994. Poke, an increasingly popular Hawaiian raw fish salad, is given a fast-casual Asian fusion twist here in the space that had been Chop Chop Salads. Choose your combination of protein and vegetables and toppings such as ginger, jalapeno and seaweed salad. Also fried rice, bibimbab and noodle-bab, made with sweet potato noodles.$$ L RAMEN HOUSE 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 7094374. Next to the Baxter Avenue Cinemas, Jonathan Ham, who formerly owned the popular Ramen Inochi, expanded his culinary range with a menu that includes traditional ramen, rice bowls, steamed buns and handmade gyoza. $$ D ROOTS 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6688. Veteran restaurateur Coco Tran looks to seduce the vegan/ vegetarian world of the Highlands with this crisp, elegant room. Eat at tables in the front, enjoy smoothies and tea at the bar, or snuggle down in a Japanese pit table in the back. Choose from an international selection of small plates. $ L D SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “fullservice” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ L D p SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600. Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping
center, Sakura Blue ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ L D SAMURAI 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036. Middletown gets some artistic sushi, as well as hibachi-grilled steak and seafood. Teppan-style (food cooked on an iron griddle) lunch and dinner entrees are a specialty. $$ L D p SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550. The remodeled Highlands location has an expanded kitchen, new sushi bar and new fixtures, giving trendy, glitzy Sapporo new bona fides as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. $$$ L D p SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ L D p STAR SUSHI 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 725-8444. Jeffersonville joins the sushi craze with its own source of yellowtail rolls, sashimi and nigiri, which is drawing fans for the freshness and flavor of its offerings, and its very fair price point. $$ L D SUSHI MASTER 9415 Norton Commons Blvd., 890-5157. This traditional Japanese restaurant offers sashimi, classic sushi rolls, noodle dishes such as udon and cold soba and entrees such as teriyaki chicken, and grilled fish. A few Korean dishes such as bulgogi are on offer too. $$ L D pf TOGO SUSHI 700 Lyndon Ln., 883-0666. ToGo offers primarily drive-thru sushi-to-go, but it does have a fiveseat bar and three two-top tables inside. Owner Chet Gurun also owns Samurai Sushi & Hibachi in Middletown and is also part owner of Oishii Sushi near Bowman Field. If sushi isn’t your thing, there are items like fried oysters,
JUNO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 5406 Antle Dr., 4097094, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 632-2777. A wideranging menu of Japanese options make these two restaurants interesting destinations. Diners have plenty of sushi options, as well as hibachi dinners, yakisoba, udon and ramen noodle dishes, tonkatsu and tempura. $$ L D p KABUKI 2784 Meijer Rd., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 5903430. A full range of Japanese dishes can be found here: sashimi and sushi, hibachi grilled meats and seafood, ramen, bento boxes and seaweed salad. $$ L D p KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-9538, 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-1870. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ L D p L & J ASIAN CUISINE 6017 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8399. A slight change of focus at this East End Asian fusion spot adds Hawaiian BBQ dishes and a wide selection of ramen preparations to the eclectic menu. $$ L D f MASA JAPANESE 12336 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5040. Middletown, too, joins in the sushi expansion. Open for lunch and dinner, the standard menu is bolstered by daily chef’s specials. Lunch specials include the Japadawg, a hot dog with Japanese toppings, a range of teriyaki choices and ramen noodles, Japanese style. $$ L D f MISAWA HIBACHI & SUSHI BAR 7931 Bardstown Rd., 290-1780 The hibachi grills here are not for show, just for grilling, which keeps prices lower than other Japanese steak houses. Rodeleo See, a sushi chef with almost two decades of experience runs the sushi bar. $$ L D p MT. FUJI 309 W. Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. The quickeating strip on the north side of U of L’s campus needed a Japanese place to satisfy students’ sushi cravings. The menu also has tempura and Japanese noodles. $ L D p
p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining
RED = Advertiser
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 63
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:26 AM Page 64
fried calamari and shrimp tempura, as well as some vegetarian options. $$ L D TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from high-quality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ L D TOMO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 4317 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-0200. This Japanese hibachi steak house offers a good show of knife skills and tableside grilling, as well as sushi. Patrons seem to admire the oversize sushi rolls, the salads with ginger dressing, and the grilled chicken and scallops. $$ L D p TSUBAKI SUSHI & BAR 13823 English Villa Dr., 2448896. A new addition to Jasmine, many people’s favorite Chinese restaurant in town. Look for both raw and cooked two-piece nigiri and three-piece Sashimi, a variety of vegetable rolls and deep fried rolls, and special rolls almost beyond counting. $$ L D p WILD GINGER SUSHI & FUSION 1700 Bardstown Rd., 384-9252. This Highlands sushi and Asian fusion spot has a sushi bar up front, and a pan-Asian menu in the back dining room. Entrees include standard Japanese entrées such as teriyuaki chicken, Japanese curry, and soba and udon noodle dishes. $$ L D p YAMATO JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany IN, 590-1380. A lot of Japanese food preparations are on the menu at this southern Indiana restaurant, located between State Street and Green Vallley Road. Offerings include: ramen bowls and bento boxes, yaki soba and sushi rolls, and steak, chicken or seafood hibachi grilled dishes. $$ L D
FRESH OUT THE BOX 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 303-3322. This food truck serving Asian fusion street food now has a stand in the Logan Street Market too, serving well-crafted tacos, rice and noodle bowls and Korean dishes. $$ L D GOGI 1055 KOREAN BBQ 1055 Bardstown Rd., 7474644. The old neighborhood theater that recently housed Buffalo Wild Wings has become home to a grill-yourown-bulgogi table-side Korean restaurant. The interior has been gutted and redone, and gas grills at the tables will allow for tableside grilling of meat to one’s own preference. $$$$ D p
recently was a Ce Fiori yogurt shop, but it now serves Korean food such as bibimbap, mandoo, ramen and dakkangjung. Bubble tea is back, too. $ L D
MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ L D SALA THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992. This entry on the growing list of Thai restaurants is gaining fans, partly because it is vegetarian- and vegan-friendly. $$ L D SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670, 12003 Shelbyville Rd, 690-8344. Owner Mahn Saing and his wife, a classically trained Thai chef, are pleasing diners in St. Matthews and Middletown. Their menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items use many ingredients from their small home garden. $$ L D f TANTHAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ L D THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ L D f THAI NOODLES 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The menu covers Thai standards like pad Thai and curries, with some interesting variations, including several duck items, such as Bangkok duck and pineapple curry duck. Noodle dishes range from flat and thin egg noodle to bean thread and rice noodle. $ L D TIME 4 THAI 2206 Frankfort Ave., 996-7899. The elegantly redone interior is matched by some unusually elegant Thai dishes, such as the volcano Cornish hen, a whole bird, marinated with Thai herbs and spicy chili sauce, which is flambéed at the table. All dishes are cooked to order, so choose your spice level. $$ L D p
KIM & BAB 3012 Charlestown Crossing Way, New Albany IN, 725-9844. This little Korean restaurant is getting rave notices from locals who love the mandu (dumplings), japchae (a noodle dish), galbi (short ribs) and dakkangjung (fried marinated boneless chicken in a spicy sweet and sour sauce). More familiar things like bulgogi and fried rice too. $$ L D
ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn Ave., 363-4847. Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ L D
KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ L D p f
CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959. A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the banh mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ L D
LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 4569714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ L D
CHIK'N & MI 1765 Mellwood Ave., 890-5731. A brief try at maintaining two locations has resulted in consolidation at the former Bistro 1860 location, which is serving the original Asian-inspired comfort foods — Laotian spiced fried chicken, hearty ramen noodle soups and an extensive selection of sake, craft beer and cocktails. $$ Br Dp
RICE BOWL 3114 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 5906786. Rice Bowl is another addition to the restaurant row area near the IUS campus. It serves Korean and Asian dishes. You will find clay pot bibimbap, chicken curry rice, several varieties of ramen. $$ L D SARANG 1908 Eastern Pkwy., 709-4282. The store on the Eastern Parkway side of the Schuster Building most 64 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
DISTRICT 6 3930 Shelbyville Rd., 873-5561. Named after the veteran restaurant owners’, the Thai family’s, native district in Saigon, District 6 features traditional Vietnamese cuisine based on their mother Nga’s recipes, updated with modern influences. Look for items like the bone-in short rib pho, spicy fried hot wings, beef lettuce
wraps, red curry chicken and Vietnamese spicy street corn, as well as noodle bowls — and whole crispy fried fish. $$ L D p EATZ VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT 974 Barret Ave., 7854550. Another newcomer to the string of shotgun houses along Barret that provide a lead-in to the Paris Pointe development. Pho and Bahn mi sandwiches, of course, but also other noodle dishes, a bento box and crispy tofu in chili sauce. $$ L D pf LEMONGRASS RESTAURANT 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 244-7110, 2956 Richland Ave., 614-7448. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ L D NAMNAM CAFÉ 318 Wallace Ave., 891-8859. This small St. Matthews Vietnamese restaurant has gained many enthusiastic fans who flock there for the pho, the banh mi and other authentic Vietnamese dishes. $ L D f PHO BA LUU 1019 E. Main St., 384-6822. This Butchertown restaurant focuses on Vietnamese street food such as pho, the classic noodle soup, and banh mi sandwiches. The very cool repurposed space was once a welding shop; its large open spaces and high ceilings make for an elegant place to sip sweet iced coffee or munch on an Imperial roll or tuck into a rice or noodle bowl. Fast casual service at lunch; after happy hour the full bar and large patio have full service. $$ L D pf PHO CAFÉ 1704 Barstown Rd., 916-2129. Local restaurant veteran Tuan Phan, who worked at Asiatique for 18 years along with a stint at Dish on Market, is serving Vietnamese-style home cooking. There is pho, of course, the signature noodle soup, as well as other noodle and rice dishes, banh mi sandwiches and a small selection of stirfries. $$ L D PHO PHI 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 290-3019. A Vietnamese restaurant joins the choices in Shelbyville Road Plaza, setting up shop in the former Home Run Burgers site. Phos, of course, and Bahn mis, and rich Vietnamese coffee. $$ L D VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154. This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ L D
BOUDREAUX’S CAJUN COOKING 11816 Shelbyville Rd. Inside the tiny Boudreaux's New Orleans Style Sno-Balls shack in Middletown, you can now find take-out only New Orleans style spicy gumbo (lunch only). Eat on the patio, or take home to reheat for supper. $ L f J. GUMBO’S 8603 Citadel Way, 493-4720, 1616 Grinstead Dr., 873-5006, 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046. Former jockey Billy Fox has come full circle with his chain of popular quick-service Cajun restaurants — his most recent outlet is in the little house near Bardstown Rd., where it all began. Among the hearty, affordable dishes that have made J. Gumbo’s a go-to spot is the drunken chicken, still a favorite. $ B L D f SEAFOOD LADY 3207 Fern Valley Rd., 907-5251, 601 E. Jefferson St., 907-5251. The lure here is fresh fish, shrimp and crab legs brought up from the Gulf Coast, prepared with Cajun spices, and served simply and relatively cheaply. $$ L D f SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. This Cajun/Creole place in a renovated Anchorage roadhouse continues to find fans. Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ Br L D pf STORMING CRAB 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 590-3773, 4801 Outer Loop, 999-9998. Here you can get
B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:26 AM Page 65
market price seafood boils in several spice levels and flavors (crab house Cajun, garlic butter and plain) to take home or dump on paper-covered tables to eat as they should be eaten. Other Cajun dishes too, like gumbo and crawfish etouffé. $$$ L D TAYLOR'S CAJUN MEAT CO. 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 725-0039. A few blocks down Grant Line Rd. from I265, Taylor’s is a spic-and-span shop run by a family from Lafayette, LA. Daily plate lunches often sell out quickly. A great variety of fresh and frozen savory Cajun specialties (sausages, stuffed everything) are always available, as well as crawfish and shrimp pies, gumbo and étouffée, and special orders. This place is the real deal. $ L THE BAYOU 434 W. Market St., 709-5255. This CajunCreole restaurant features classic Bayou recipes like jambalaya, red beans and rice, gumbo, seafood platters and crab boils as well as club sandwiches, frog legs, crab cakes and a Sunday buffet. Soul-food desserts include fried cherry, apple and sweet potato pies with caramel drizzle and a turtle sundae. $$$ L D f
CARIBBEAN CAFÉ 317 W. Woodlawn Ave., 434-7711. The diverse Woodlawn neighborhood welcomes the area’s first Haitian restaurant. The boldly-painted exterior is decorated with cool Haitian folk art; the menu offers generous portions of jerk chicken, fried red snapper, goat, and hearty sides of rice, beans and plantains. $ L D CUBAN RESTAURANT AND BAKERY 5614 Preston Hwy., 919-7074. Among the range of Latin restaurants along Preston Hwy, this unassuming place has garnered many fans, for the satisfying Cuban food in the café, as well as for its baked goods. $ B L D EDEN & KISSI 3912 Bardstown Rd., 384-9102. Another addition to the growing ethnic food choices in Buechel,
p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining
RED = Advertiser
this Afro-Caribbean restaurant serves several kinds of jerk chicken, chicken curry, and peri-peri wings. Daily specials include Ivory Coast style jollof rice, and a shrimp burger. $$ L D
to the Douglass Loop, and adds a large selection of Spanish tapas as well. Fans have also spoken reverently of the mojitos and other cocktails in the stylish bar. $ L D pf
GALAN’S MEAT MARKET & GRILLE 2300 W. Market St., 618-3191. Carlos Galan, who has made a mark with his butcher shop in Portland, has opened another enterprise, in a former bank. His family-oriented restaurant, which has a Cuban/Puerto Rican/Caribbean menu focus, also has a meat market on site. Order breakfast, lunch or dinner inside, or from the drivethrough. $ B L D f
LA BODEGUITA DE MIMA 725 E. Market St., 690-5016. Adjacent to the AC Hotel in NuLu, this Cuban restaurant is the latest restaurant concept from Fernando Martinez and his Olé Restaurant group. Cigar lounge, rum bar, 1950s Havana décor and a menu of classics from family recipes, like Cuban tamal con Puerco, pan con bistec and some delectable desserts. $$ D pf
HABANA BLUES TAPAS RESTAURANT 320 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 944-9760. Owner Leo Lopez has rebooted his restaurant concept in a former bank (the safe is still there, behind the bar) and installed in the front of the restaurant is a recreation of the raft he built to emigrate from Castro’s Cuba when he was 18. Cubanstyle tapas on the menu, also a half-dozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a few dinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arroz con pollo. Live music most nights — tango, flamenco and salsa. $$ L D pf HAVANA BAKERY CAFÉ 5510 Fern Valley Rd., 509-3410. This Cuban spot offers sweets and savories: tres leches cake, coquitos (coconut-caramel rolls) and flan; sandwiches or meat and fish combos (ropa vieja, albondigas, pechuga de pollo). $$ L D HAVANA RUMBA 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana can be found at this consistently busy Cuban restaurant. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $$ L D pf HAVANA RUMBA & TAPAS BAR 2210 Bardstown Rd., 749-4600. The Havana Rumba family brings Cuban food
MI SUEÑO 3425 Bardstown Rd., 709-4526. This honest little bodega and hot table restaurant serving Latin groceries and a variety of Cuban-centric Latin dishes was, as the name translates, the owner’s dream. $ B L D MOJITO IN HAVANA 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1959. Long-time Louisville favorite Havana Rumba has resurfaced with a new identity in the location previously occupied by Waylon’s Food & Firewater. The roomier location of this Cuban favorite offers diners a two-tier menu that brings together the best selections from both Mojitos Tapas Restaurant and Havana Rumba. Look for some new offerings, as well, including shrimp croquettes and a selection of flatbreads. $$ B Br L D pf OPEN CARIBBEAN KITCHEN 4735 Poplar Lever Rd., 601-1332. Chef Space, the West End kitchen incubator, has fostered another interesting eatery. This one highlights the cuisines of Haiti, the Dominican Republic, and Trinidad. Offerings include alluring options like sautéed conch ceviche, Rasta pasta, and island-style jerk chicken. $$ L D ROOF TOP GRILL 414 W. Oak St., 618-2287. This Jamaican restaurant serves the native cuisine of owner Courtney Johnson. Look for jerk chicken, curry with chicken, turkey, goat and rib tips, along with Kentucky
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 65
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:26 AM Page 66
favorites like fried catfish, barbecue and beef patties. $ LD
BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. Owner Anthony Dike’s refocus of the restaurant around a bistro menu continues its popularity. $$$$ D pf BRASSERIE PROVENCE 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 8833153. This Provençal-style brasserie serves classical and Southern French specialties, the comfort food enjoyed by owner Guy Genoud in his childhood home of Cannes, France. Dine like the French do on fish and seafood, a variety of meat and fowl, a daily "plat du jour", French cheese and charcuterie, specialty cocktails, draft beer and a large selection of French wine. $$$ L D pf
COMMON HAUS 134 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. A “sister restaurant” to Pints & Union, this Bavarian-style hall has a selection of German beers, German-style comfort food, three floors of outdoor seating, including two decks and a new patio on the ground floor. A long communal table runs down the center of the ground floor dining room, and the upper floors have a clear view of the river. $$$ D pf GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North Rhine-Westphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$ D f
IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloon is as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. Serving classic Irish fare. $ Br L D pf MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222. Molly Malone’s, as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green, has anchored the dining scene in the Lower Highlands for many years. You’ll find fish and chips, corned beef and cabbage, bangers and mash and shepherd’s pie, along with Irish interpretations of American bar food like wings and pretzels and beer cheese.$$ L D pf MORE SHENANIGAN’S 4521 Bardstown Rd., 493-3585. $ L D pf O'CONNELL'S IRISH PUB 5520 Fern Valley Rd., 9640040. If you are in the mood for an Irish Car Bomb, this is the place. Guinness, too, karaoke nights and a satisfying selection of bar food. $ L D p O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. The O’Shea family has been operating an Irish pub since the early 1900s. Today they have one of the most popular pubs on the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor. Diners of all ages like its burgers, flat breads, sandwiches and fish and chips. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ L D pf PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This downtown Irish bar was one of the first to open in the Whiskey Row complex. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. $$ L D pf SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 454-3919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neigh-
66 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
borhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ L D pf
mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccata, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ D f
THE RAVEN 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. The St. Matthews outpost of Molly Malone’s has been remodeled and rebranded to offer “an authentic, Irish cultural experience.” Gaelic legends and myths inspire the decor, and rugby, hurling and football (by which they mean soccer) are the sports that fans come watch while chowing down on shepherd’s pie and fish and chips. The extensive menu offers American food as well as Irish dishes. $$$ L Dp f
GRASSA GRAMMA 2210 Holiday Manor Ctr., 333-9595. Kevin Grangier’s newest dining idea is his take on familiar Italian food, just like your robust Italian grandmother made, only better. There’s lasagne, of course, and spaghetti and meatballs, ravioli and gnocchi and several other pastas, but prime beef filet with Gorgonzola sauce, veal scallopini, whole roasted branzino, and pizza, too. $$$$ Br L D p
ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ L D AMICI´ 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Satisfying, traditional Tuscan dishes are served in this interesting Old Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic (and pet-friendly) patio on a lovely summer evening. The joke and pun-filled menu, updated by new owner Don Reinhardt, is fun to read, and his dishes have been winning raves. $$ D pf ANGIO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 451-5454. This small eatery moved from its Buechel location to the East End, still attracting a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $$ L D p BAR VETTI 727 E. Market St., 883-3331. The crew behind Feast BBQ and Royals Hot Chicken scored another win when bar Vetti, an upscale casual Italian eatery, opened in the 800 Building. Now moved to a larger space in the AC Hotel in NuLu, bar Vetti continues to draw fans with the smashed meatball burger, the popular eggplant Parmesan sandwich, pastas and pizza. $$$$ L D pf BELLA ROMA AUTHENTIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT 134 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9495. Bella Roma adds classic Italian-American choices in a pleasant environment in the midst of New Albany’s growing restaurant row. $$$ L D f BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-2426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family Italian-American restaurants of the 1950s. $$ L D p CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$$ L D pf CIAO 1201 Payne St., 690-3532. You will find a full range of familiar Italian fare in this Irish Hill favorite. With lunch choices like pizzas, chicken Parmesan sandwiches and baked manicotti, and dinner dishes such as salumi platter, shrimp scampi, gnocchi alla vodka and pork osso bucco, Ciao has become more than a neighborhood favorite. $$ L D pf COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777. Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike other neighborhood saloons, this houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $$ L D p DIFABIO’S CASAPELA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. Reminiscent of a menu that harks back to the red-checked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed
MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr. 3949797. Now locally owned, Martini’s continues to serve hearty, well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas, a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria. An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ Br L D pf MERCATO ITALIANO 10640 Meeting St., 690-3200. This Italian market and upscale casual restaurant in Norton Commons is under new ownership. Chef/owner Peter Pagano prepares lunch, brunch and dinner. Customers can buy cheeses, bread, charcuterie, sauces, packaged pastas and prepared meals for take-out in the market section. $$ Br L D p MILANO ITALIAN RESTAURANT 11300 Westport Rd., 742-2926. This family-owned restaurant with locations in Shelbyville and Mt. Washington has opened its first Louisville location. The menu, based on owner Jonathan Balderas’s grandmother’s recipes, features items like calzones, thick- and thin-crust pizzas, pasta and more than a dozen house specials with all dough, sauces and dressings made from scratch in house. $$ L D p MILANTONI ITALIAN RESTAURANT 1600 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 742-8210. This East End restaurant serves up all you would want in a casual Italian eatery: mozzarella sticks and calamari; subs and Philly cheesesteaks; pizzas and calzones; and a dozen or so different pastas. $$ L D p OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ L D p OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 339-7190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer Loop, 9682978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ L D p PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992. Start with fried artichokes, a Roman specialty. Opt for the grilled Romaine salad, then the gnocchi with spicy sausage. The grilled veal chop is a fine choice, and finish with tiramisu. $$$ L D pf ROC RESTAURANT 1327 Bardstown Rd., 459-7878. New York City chef/restaurateur Rocco Cadolini has transformed a Highlands building into an elegant upscale restaurant, with a handsome pergola in the front garden. The first floor has a large bar and casual dining, and upstairs sees a more formal white tablecloth space with several private dining rooms. Here you will find authentic Italian food, served with flair. Now open for lunch and the “disco brunches” are becoming legendary. $$$ D pf SARINO 1030 Goss Ave., 822-3777. Owners and brothers, Carmelo and Michael Gabriele, the next generation of the noted Gabriele family (owners of the highly revered Vincenzo’s), have taken over the short-lived Goss Ave. Pub space for their casual, authentic Italian restaurant that emphasizes fresh pasta and Neapolitan pizza, something
B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:26 AM Page 67
Germantown had been lacking. The menu also features Sicilian street fare, Italian cheeses paired with charcuterie, and traditional entrees. $$ D p SILVIO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 104 Fairfax Ave., 8836369. Owned by one of the Melillo family, fondly remembered for their NuLu retaurant before NuLu became popular, this St. Matthews spot evokes the classic New Jersey style Italian restaurants of the “Big Night” era: baked pasta dishes, cheese-stuffed rice balls, pasta fagiole, and eggplant Parmesan. $$ L D p SPAGHETTI SHOP 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-5400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ L D THE BLACK ITALIAN 2009 Highland Ave., 690-8914. Unpretentious Italian home-cooking is the style at this Highlands spot. Choose from six pasta dishes, grilled meatballs and chicken wings, and sub sandwiches. $$$ LD TOWN 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. The former Southern Indiana branch of the Come Back Inn has a new identity and a menu still focused on pasta dishes and pizzas with several new salads, sandwiches and a revamped appetizer selection. Other entrees include items like chicken piccata and Greek lamb pasta. $$ L D p TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced Italian-American fare at a price that’s right. $$ L D p VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. Chef and coowner Josh Moore has revised his menu after an inspirational tour of Italy, and brings in fantastic whole
p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining
RED = Advertiser
fish for seafood specials on Fridays. His pasta extruder allows him to do things like squid ink fettuccine. Volare continues to be a top spot for suave Italian dining. Moore supplies his kitchen with vegetables he raises himself on his Taylorsville farm. $$$ D pf
BARCELONA BISTRO BAR 10415 Taylorsville Rd., 6146055. Jeffersontown gets a Spanish restaurant thanks to chef/owner Alba Clementson. Here she offers Catalanstyle spinach with caramelized onions, roasted cashews, cranberries, and peanuts; paella; Serrano ham croquettes; and albondigas (pork meatballs in almond sauce), among other dishes. $$$ Br D p MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojito quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $$ L D pf
APNA CAFÉ 11322 Maple Brook Dr., 690-7555. This Indian café attached to the neighboring grocery offers a colorful and aromatic assortment of curries and more. $$ LD BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-8892. With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ L D f CHAMLING KITCHEN & BAR 2249 Hikes Ln., 4512500. Another entrepreneurial immigrant family has
opened Louisvillians’ taste buds to more ethnic possibilities. In the former Empress of China space, the Rai family serves standard Chinese hot table dishes, but also adds Nepalese and Indian fare. $ L D p CLAY OVEN INDIAN RESTAURANT 12567 Shelbyville Rd., 254-4363. Northern Indian cuisine with a focus on the clay oven specialties of the region, including some Nepalese dishes, like goat curry and chicken mo-mo (a kind of chicken and dumplings dish). Also selections of lamb dishes and, of course, a large vegetarian menu. $$ LD DAKSHIN SOUTH INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. This Indian restaurant has won many fans with its aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ B L D p EGGHOLIC 1947 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 690-2116. This small Chicago chain boasts that its dishes are just like those found on Indian lahris (street carts). The menu offers egg dishes prepared in various styles of Indian cuisine, as well as sandwiches, rice dishes and curries. $$ B Br L D p HONEST INDIAN 9008 Taylorsville Rd., 690-8355. From a street cart in Ahmedabad, in western India, this chain expanded to Thailand and now to the U.S. Its menu offers abundant offerings from a variety of regional Indian cuisines. Offerings include bhaji pav, rava dosa, uttapam, aloo mutter and various chaat. $$ L D HYDERABAD HOUSE LOUISVILLE 12412 Shelbyville Rd., 405-8788. The first of this international chain of Indian restaurants to arrive in Louisville, this Middletown restaurant boasts that its Indian food is more authentic than other restaurants, with over 200 dishes on its menu, including several biryanis, curries, masalas and naan. $$ L D p
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 67
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:26 AM Page 68
KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1277 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ L D f KATHMANDU KITCHEN AND BAR 3825 Bardstown Rd., 202-1481. Named for the capital city of Nepal, this crisp, modern place in Buechel serves Nepalese food (a sort-of fusion of Chinese and Indian cuisines). Expect dishes such as pakoras, biruanis and even chow mein, but also Nepali items such as pork sakuwo (spiced pork chunks cooked on skewers), fried mo-mo (a kind of dumpling with dipping sauce) and khasikomaasu ra bhata, an aromatic stew with curried accents. $$ L D pf SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants. With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ L D SHREEJI INDIAN VEGETARIAN STREET FOOD 1986 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 890-4000. The extensive, completely vegetarian menu of this East End restaurant looks to the street food of India for dishes not often seen here: a variety of chaats, masala pav, hakka, dosa and even an aloo mutter sandwich, filled with a blend of potato, peas and a balance of savory spices. $$ L D
shawarma, hummus, baba ganoush, tahini salad — and baklava cheesecake. $$ L D f EAT A PITA 2286 Bardstown Rd., 473-7482. Enjoy Mediterranean-Middle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ L D THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 454-4407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the BardstownBaxter entertainment strip. Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ L D f FALAFEL OASIS 226 W. Broadway, 742-2030. The owner of Superior Market and Deli a few doors away has also opened this Middle Eastern restaurant, serving gyros, falafel, and other regional fare. $ L D GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. For those in the know, the Grape Leaf has long been a destination spot, well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery nich in both ambiance and quality of food. Prices remain affordable; the food and mood justify a special trip. $$ L Df JERUSALEM KITCHEN 4413 Saint Rita Dr., 614-6465. Little Jerusalem Café has moved from the Iroquois Manor area and moderately rebranded itself. You can still find a range of Mediterranean dishes here, shawarma and fattoush, gyros and hummus and so on. $$ D f
SONAL'S KITCHEN 3741 Pamela Rae Dr., 408-5633. This East End Indian restaurant serves vegetarian and vegan dishes from all parts of the sub-continent, with emphasis on the dishes of South India. $$ L D
LITTLE GREEK FRESH GRILL 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 6908348. This Arkansas-based chain is now serving dolmades and spanikopita, pita sandwiches and wraps, a variety of skewers and mousaka and pastitsio. $$ L D p
TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ L D f
MAIRA MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 1907 S. Fourth St., 963-5999. Owners of the popular Safier restaurant in Theater Square have opened this U of L location, serving Middle Eastern food such as shawarma, kebab, falafel, hummus, lentil soup and baklava. $ L D f
TANDOORI FUSION 4600 Chamberlain Ln., 255-2590. The former Zeggz's location has been quickly taken over by entrepreneur Purna Veer, who uses Indian vegetables grown on his Oldham County farm. Veer promises that his dishes will not be “watered down,” so be ready for uncommon spice levels. $$ B L D pf
MASALA GRILL 528 S. Fifth St., 562-0202. $ L
TIKKA HOUSE 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 749-4535. Tikka House has garnered positive notice for both its lunch buffet and a la carte dinner service. Diners have praised dishes such as lamb masala with roasted coconut, Tandoori wings, fish pakora, paneer chili, several daal preparations and saag paneer. $$ L D pf
AL SULTAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 8129 Bardstown Rd., 630-3334. Located in the Glenmary Shopping Center, this Middle-Eastern restaurant offers the classics — shwarma and kofta, tabbouleh. $$ L D f ALADDIN’S MEDITERRANEAN 37 Bank St., New Albany IN, 489-7969. After bringing a higher level of Middle Eastern cuisine to the still-growing dining scene in New Albany, Aladdin’s has moved to the cool new Underground Station complex. You will still find wellcrafted gyros, chicken shawarma, tabbouleh and hummus in their sleek new environs. Finish your meal with thick Turkish coffee. $ L D CASPIAN GRILL PERSIAN BISTRO 2716 Frankfort Ave., 290-6050. Middle Eastern food of an above-average quality. Kabobs and hummus, of course, but also shirazi salad with tomatoes, cucumbers and onions in a lemony dressing, and chicken stew with pomegranate and walnuts. $ L D CHARCOAL 2805 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 749-8888. Chicken cooked over charcoal and served with garlic sauce is just one of the draws at this new Mediterranean restaurant. The menu also lists classics like falafel, chicken 68 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
other businesses just past the Watterson, serves familiar Mediterranean dishes — kibbeh, shawarma, biryani — and also family size meals of mixed grill and the Syrian rice dish mansaf. $$ L D TAZIKI’S MEDITERRANEAN CAFÉ 13317 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6222, 106 Fairfax Ave., 212-5373. At these Alabama-based chain outlets the food is made fresh daily with vegan and gluten-free choices. The menu includes grilled chicken roll-ups, a grilled tilapia sandwich with dill-caper sauce, gyros, a grilled vegetable and rice plate, roasted potatoes and baklava, along with beer and wine. $$ L D pf ZOE’S KITCHEN 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now has two Louisville locations. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, rollups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ L D
CARALI'S ROTISSERIE CHICKEN 9148 Taylorsville Rd., 618-0699, 642 Baxter Ave., 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 6182725, 5439 New Cut Rd., 963-5698, 211 S. Fifth St., 654-7131. You will find Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken and other South American dishes here: lomo (grilled marinated steak), chaufa rice and various salads and side dishes (such as stuffed avocado). Sandwiches as well as full dinners, and take away half and full roasted chickens. $LDp CLASSICO TAKEOUT AND EMPANADAS 104. S. Preston St., 489-1380. Downtown eaters now have a way to enjoy some of the crowd-pleasing dishes of well-knonw to fans of Clifton’s Caffe Classico. Restaurateur Tommy Mudd’s new downtown kiosk will focus on hand-held takeaway choices, including his well-regarded empanadas. Espresso too, and limited outdoor seating. $$ B L pf
MIRAGE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 4100 Preston Hwy., 363-7788. Preston Highway’s international restaurant row is enriched by this Middle Eastern eatery, run by the owners of the now-defunct Little Jerusalem. Gyros, hummus, falafel — what one would expect, but done with attention to details and a flair for flavor. $$ L D f
EL RINCONCITO 4806 Bardstown Rd., 742-9537. This Peruvian restaurant adds to the ethnic choices in Buechel. The happy chicken logo touts the charcoal-grilled chicken, but the menu includes salchipapa (sausage and potatoes), lomo saltado (a beef stew), plantains and Peruvian green rice. $ L D
PASHA'S MEDITERRANEAN 3904 Bardstown Rd., 4094532. You can find the usual Mediterranean fare here – falafel, baba ghanouj – but with influences of Jordanian recipes such as Kalaya, ground lamb cooked in tomatoes, and char-grilled lamb liver. Fans cite the value-sized portions. $$ L D f
EL SAZON DE ABUELA 8506 Preston Hwy., 290-0030. The ethnic food choices along Preston Highway continue to expand with this Puerto Rican restaurant. Mofongo, – smashed plantains infused with garlic and seasonings – is a comfort food staple of PR cuisine made with shrimp, chicken, seafood, or veggies and broth. Breakfast dishes, burgers, and sandwiches are also on offer. $$ B L D f
SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 5851125. You can get standard American fare at this downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich? $ L D f SAM’S GYRO 3123 S. Second St., 709-4292. This hummus and kebab joint, with its tasty food and friendly service, has moved out to the South End. The menu features everything you would expect from a typical Eastern Mediterranean menu: falafel, tabouli, gyros, baklava and spanakopita. $ L D SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 426-9954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232, 4614 Chamberlain Ln., 919-9014, 1565 Bardstown Rd., 749-0385. From a tiny neighborhood storefront, Shiraz quickly grew out of its original location and expanded into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, such as char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavash. $ L D f SYRIAN GRILL ABU ABDU 3325 Bardstown Rd., 7490071. This Middle Eastern restaurant, tucked away amid
I LOVE TACOS 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 384-2154, 1534 Bardstown Rd., 742-4119, 3550 Springhurst Commons Dr., 749-6847. The opening of the third location of this locally-owned Mexican spot testifies to restaurant’s popularity. The menu’s focus extends beyond the expectations of the name with burritos and quesadillas too. But the birria taco, filled with spiced stewed beef and then crisped on a griddle, has become a sort of signature dish. $$ L D pf LA BODEGUITA DEL MEDIO 5700 Outer Loop, 7422144. You can find a variety of Latin dishes here, from tamales and tacos to cerdo asado (roast pork in citrus marinade), ropa vieja and churrasco, seafood and soups. $$ L D p LA GUANAQUITA 4231 Taylor Blvd., 822-1343. This South End spot serves the dishes of Guatemala and Honduras: pupusas and baleadas and pescado frito (fried fish), served whole, head and tail on, garnished with lime wedges and avocado slices. $$ L D LA SUERTE 2116 Bardstown Rd., 883-1000. Owner Chris Seckman has transformed his Douglass Loop North End Café site into a Latin restaurant. Partner and Executive Chef Adrian Jimarez Neri offer dishes inspired by his
B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:26 AM Page 69
mother and grandmother. The dinner menu includes pollo tostadas, shrimp a la parilla, pork posole and shrimp a la diabla. Brunch will offer molletes, migas, and jalapeño biscuits with chorizo gravy. $$$ Br D pf SABOR LATINO 1273 S. Brook St., 276-4954. A welcome addition to Old Louisville is this tiny restaurant serving a “Latin Culinary Mix,” as a sign advertises. The menu offers Cuban sandwiches, patatas bravas, burritos, quesadillas, carne asada, ropa vieja and pollo de vacaciones – a chicken stew. $$ L D f SENORA AREPA 721 E. Market St., 795-3995. The longawaited Senora Arepa serves the rich Venezuelan cuisine, with influences from Spanish, West African, and Native American cultures. Arepas, the cornmeal bread stuffed with meat or cheese that is ubiquitous in northern Latin America, anchors the casual menu. $$ L D pf YUMMY POLLO 4222 Bishop Ln., 618-1400. You can get Peruvian-style charcoal roasted chicken here by the piece, half or whole bird. American-style side dishes include fried or mashed potatoes, rice, steamed vegetables, slaw and pasta salad. $ L
BANDIDO TAQUERIA MEXICANA 423 University Blvd., 996-7788, 905 E. Liberty St., 384-2527. These Mexican places, the first in a strip mall near U of L, the second next to Falls City Brewing in NuLu, serve California-style tacos, quesadillas, burritos, nachos and burrito bowls, with a choice of four salsas at the condiment bar. $$ L D f BUBBAKOO’S BURRITOS 12919 Factory Ln., 3840778, 4214 Shelbyville Rd., 630-2017. This East Coast fast-casual chain has now opened two locations here, with more area locations on the corporate radar. Lots of standard Mexican fare (tacos, quesadillas, nachos),
p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining
RED = Advertiser
along with wings and choice of six sauces. One house specialty is the Chiwawa, a stuffed rice ball, breaded and fried. $$ L D CAFÉ AROMA 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 618-3434. This little shop along the lower Brownsboro food corridor touts “a world of flavor with a Mexican flair.” It’s mostly Mexican and really mostly good, according to our friends in the neighborhood. Affordable, casual and filling. $ L D CANCÚN 808 Lyndon Ln., 883-1924, 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 742-3697. Now with two locations, Cancún offers familiar dishes, combination platters, and steak and seafood specialties like carne bandito and tostados de ceviche. $$ L D pf CHIPOTLE MEXICAN GRILL 315 S. Fourth St., 5848606, 10333 Westport Rd., 526-5170, 1075 Bardstown Rd., 452-8990, 13303 Shelbyville Rd., 244-7173, 420 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 425-3017. Now with five Louisville locations, this increasingly popular Tex-Mex chain, with an emphasis on cooking with humanely-raised meat products, seems to have struck a chord with consumers. $ LDf COCONUT BEACH TACOS & CERVEZA 2787 S. Floyd St., 634-2844. The menu here is anchored by bargainpriced tacos created to lure in U of L students from nearby (the place is across from Papa John’s Cardinal Stadium), as well as burritos, empanadas and tortas. Come the weekend, the huge space is converted into a bar and dance club. $ L D pf CON HUEVOS 2339 Frankfort Ave., 384-3027, 4938 US42, 384-3744, 400 S. Second St. (Omni Hotel). This popular Mexican breakfast and lunch spot with locations in Clifton and the Eastern suburbs has added a downtown outlet. Expect huevos rancheros, chilaquiles, breakfaststyle enchiladas (with eggs, of course), frijoladas, churros and molletes. Tortas and tacos at lunch as well. $ B Br L
EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1909 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 266-9605. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ L D p EL COMAL TAQUERIA 9609 Dixie Hwy., 632-2053. As one might expect, the main focus here is on tacos, including party taco trays, but other choices include burritos, quesadillas and chilaquiles. $ L D p EL MARIACHI 9901 La Grange Rd., 413-5770. Fans of this Mexican restaurant, situated between a bakery and an ethnic grocery, find much to rave about: tacos and burritos made with the bakery’s fresh tortillas, funky authentic fillings and quick, friendly service. $ B L D p EL MOLCAJETE 8106 Preston Hwy., 742-3485, 2932 S. Fourth St., 638-0300. You can get gringo-style tacos (with shredded lettuce, cheese & sour cream) at this south-end Mexican joint. But if you come here, why not eat like a native? Lash your pork, beef and chicken tacos with freshsqueezed lime juice and a heap of sliced radishes. Want to get truly authentic? Step up to beef tongue (lengua), intestine (tripas) or brain (sesos). $$ L D p EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930, 1767 Bardstown Rd., 384-5633. he crowded little Crescent Hill storefront, offering creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!”, now has a second outlet in the multi-level space in the Highlands that once was Asiatique. Both locations provide high-quality Mexican food and drink. $ L D pf EL NOPAL (22 Locations) These locally-owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain, winning popularity on the basis of delicious and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $ L D pf
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 69
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:26 AM Page 70
EL PASTORCITO 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-3277, 4132 Outer Loop, 618-0520. El Pastorcito serves Mexican street food (tacos, sopes, tortas, etc.) and a range of Mexican/American entrées (gorditas, quesadillas, burgers and chicken tenders). $$ L D p f EL RIO GRANDE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 632-2403. A Mexican restaurant has taken over the expansive space that once was Limestone. Patrons report good experiences, with both the food and the service. $$ L D p EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 2850109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ B L D pf EL TACO LOCO 5622 Preston Hwy., 225-7229. This unpretentious Mexican restaurant tries to be as authentic as it can, and has persuaded many fans with its efforts. Inexpensive, freshly made tacos, quesadillas and other familiar Mexican dishes, served in value sizes. $ L D EL TACO LUCHADOR 938 Baxter Ave., 583-0440, 112 Meridian Ave., 709-5154, 9204 Taylorsville Rd., 7081675, 5205 New Cut Rd. (Colonial Gardens), 384-8457. With the opening of the Colonial Gardens site and a store in J’town, Olé Restaurant Group now has five taquerias that all have diners lined up out the door. Familiar taco names — carnitas, carne asada — get clever riffs in the kitchen. Call it elevated Mexican street food. And do try the fantastic tortas. $ L D f EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010. El Tarasco’s take on Mexican food appeals both to the area’s growing Latino population and Anglos who want to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ L D p EL TORAZO 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7272. A family-oriented Mexican restaurant offers the expected menu items, as well as some more sophisticated dishes, such as 7 mares sopa, a soup with shrimp, scallops and octopus; banderillas, a colorful beef brochette; and chuleta sabrosa, a Durango-style grilled steak. $$ L D pf EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ L D pf FELIPE’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 742-9142. This East End Mexican place is crisp and modern, with a menu that encompasses familiar lunch specials (fajitas, quesadillas, burritos) and a lengthy choice of regional sauces with the chicken and steak dishes. $$ L Dp FIESTA MEXICANA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ L Dp FIESTA TIME AMIGOS 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444, 135 S. English Station Rd., 254-7755. These traditional Mexican restaurant’s locations serve the expected things, like fajitas and burritos. But there is also an extensive grill menu, with items such as steak tampiqueño (rib-eye steak with ranchero sauce), Chile Colorado and Los Amigos cheese steak. $ L D pf FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $ L D p FISTFUL OF TACOS 2708 Paoli Pk., New Albany IN, 5570226. This ambitious little taco joint in the Knobs offers five taco choices - The Good (chicken tinga, citrus slaw),The Bad (beef, pico de gallo), The Ugly (Bourbon pork, mango salsa), The Vegan (roasted sweet potato, black bean) and The Pesky (scallop ceviche, melon). $$ L Df FOKO 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), (210) 7925858. Chef Paco Garcia fuses his two favorite cuisines, Mexican and Southern. The result is chicken with 70 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
jalapeno gravy or tortas with collard greens, among others. $$ L D f GUACA MOLE 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 365-4822. When Fernando Martinez returned to Louisville, he started his remarkable new restaurant blitz with this East End “creative Mexican” restaurant. As the name emphasizes, the menu explores different moles, and the creativity comes with modern twists on classic Mexican dishes. Fans quickly warmed to the food and the up-to-the-minute cocktail program designed by Martinez’s wife Christina. $$ Br L D p GUSTAVO’S MEXICAN GRILL 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 434-7266, 10715 Meeting St., 690-7070, 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 420-1100. Gustavo’s offers “bold Mexican flavors.” Everything you would expect — fajitas, burritos, tacos — but also vegetarian options, house specialties like enchiladas verdes, chimichangas, shrimp tacos and pollo feliz (grilled chicken with chorizo and pineapple). $$ L D pf ISRAEL’S DELICIAS DE MEXICO GOURMET 604 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 725-9139. Israel Landon introduced Kentuckiana to his Mexican home-style cooking at La Rosita a few years ago. Now he is moving into the former Destinatins Booksellers space by the end of March. Look for street tacos and Mayan quesadillas and weekly specials highlighting cuisine from various regions of Mexico, including seafood dishes and new desserts. $ L D f JOELY'S BAR & GRILL 1999 Brownsboro Rd., 742-9456. Taking over the former El Frijol location in Clifton, this Mexican restaurant serves breakfast, burritos, quesadillas, tortas and chimichangas. Dinner choices range from pollo con arroz to carnitas de puerco to seafood. $$ L D p LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. The revamped and updated Highlands authentic fast food place still offers burritos as big as your head, and tacos, quesadillas and tortas too. $ L D LA CATRINA MEXICAN KITCHEN 202 E. Elm St., New Albany IN, 725-8264. The owners of Señor Iguanas restaurants have opened this Mexican party food and street food restaurant in the building that Dragon King’s Daughter moved out of. Look for naked and dressed tacos, soups, salads and shareable dishes and seasonal menu updates. $$ L D pf LA CHAPINLANDIA 1209 McCawley Rd., 384-7075. If those tiny hole-in-the-wall places are the best for real Mexican food, this little South End place will satisfy Okolona’s need for tacos and burritos. $ L D p LA LUPITA 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-0083. Tucked away on the back side of a strip mall, this is a new spot for authentic Mexican food. The usual stuff but also panbazos, tlacoyos, tlayudas and aguachile, all explained and illustrated on the menu. $$ L D pf LA POPULAR 2521 Seventh St Rd., 636-3688.$LDp LA RIVIERA MAYA 8104 National Turnpike, 361-3566. This South End Mexican restaurant is popular with local Latinos, which is always a good sign. Look for gorditas and carne asada, as well as familiar fare like enchiladas. Word is that the horchata is rich and spiced just right. $ LDp LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 8730 Westport Rd., 618-4588, 5059 Preston Hwy., 618-2883. For those who crave genuine Mexican tacos, you want them convenient when the urge to scarf one down strikes. These little places will certainly satisfy those cravings. $ L D LA SIERRA RESTAURANT AND TAQUERIA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ LA TORTA LOCA 5213 Preston Hwy., 966-3254. This simple, strip mall eatery has been around long enough to gain dedicated fans of their well-seasoned and fairly spicy versions of familiar Mexican dishes. Some of those fans recommend the agua de Jamaica (hibiscus).
LA TROPICANA 5215 Preston Hwy., 964-5957. This Latino grocery store has been selling a full range of fruits, vegetables, meats and grocery items for a while. Now there is a steam-table buffet with a wide range of lunch choices. It’s mostly take-away, but there’s also limited outdoor and indoor seating. $$ B L D f LAS CAZUELAS 4214 Bishop Ln., 614-8634. This unassuming strip mall eatery has amassed a dedicated local clientele with fast, friendly service, cold margaritas and well-prepared familiar Mexican fare. $$ L D pf LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small, thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz now also have a sit-down storefront just down the street. $ D f LAS MARGARITAS MEXICAN RESTAURANT 12220 Shelbyville Rd., 963-5503, 307 Central Ave., 690-8071. The emphasis here is on the cuisine of the Gulf coast of Mexico. You will find the familiar (tacos, fajitas) and the slightly different — caldo de pollo (Mexican chicken soup), mole poblano and salmon al ajillo (garlic salmon) and tlayollos, a variation on tamales. $$ L D p LIMÓN Y SAL 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 423-4604. This authentic Mexican kitchen offers suburbanites many choices: taquitos, bocadillos and dips to start, soups such as pozole and caldo de camarón (shrimp soup), tacos, tortas and combination dinners. $$ L D pf LOS AZTECAS 445 E. Market St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Genuine Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville thanks to a growing immigrant community. Los Aztecas, one of the best, has moved its W. Main St. anchor store to E. Market, taking over the larger, spiffy space left by Wild Rita’s closing. It’s satellite locations are still bustling too. $ L D pf LUCKY BURRITO 2118 Bardstown Rd., 883-1000. Christopher Seckman and partner Adrian Jimarez Neri morphed the Douglass Loop location of North End Café into the Modern Latin restaurant La Suerte. Now the team has added a new offering next door: Lucky Burrito is a quick-service place with hefty burritos, nicely-priced tacos, and plenty of interesting ingredients and an assortment of deftly-crafted tacos. $$ L D f LUNA'S MEXICAN ROTISSERIE 5213 Preston Hwy., 962-8898. The owners came from Puebla, Mexico, but made a stop in Los Angeles before moving to Louisville and starting Luna’s Rotisserie. Their specialty is slowcooked rotisserie chicken from the coast of Veracruz. There’s plenty more on the board, such as tamales, quesadillastarlights and menudo. On Saturdays & Sundays, pozole and cabo de camaron are added. $$ L D MANGO’S BAR & GRILL 4632 Hendrik Dr., 671-5291. This Mexican-American restaurant chain serves a Latin lunch buffet seven days a week as well as a full dinner menu. You will find burritos, tacos and tamales, but also several steak dishes and Mexican-style desserts. $$ L D MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán arguably kicked off the restaurant renaissance along East Market Street, in the area now known as NuLu. His stylish bistro serves distinctive cuisine from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula. $$ D pf MEXA TACOS 3701 Lexington Rd., 290-1334. This fastcasual restaurant features a list of signature steak tacos customizable with house-made salsas, guacamole, peppers and other toppings, such as the special house queso made with poblano peppers. Owner Lorena CasasOstos is a steak taco purist, but she offers fish, shrimp and pork pastor too. $$ L D p MEXICO CITY TAQUERIA & RESTAURANT 3826 Hamburg Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 283-1072. This bright
B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:26 AM Page 71
little Mexican place in a Jeffersonville strip mall offers the usual, and on weekends adds traditional Mexican soups like caldos de camarones, menudo and pozole. $ L D MI BONITO PINOTEPA 7200 Preston Hwy., 290-5328. Dishes from southern Mexico, around Oaxaca, are the focus of this Okolona strip mall restaurant. Look for Oaxacan-style tamales, various moles and tlayudos, a kind off open-faced quesadilla. $ L D MI CASITA PARRILLA MEXICANA 520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666. Enthusiastic fans of the restaurant formerly known as Mi Cocina will find the same quick and efficient lunch service and dishes executed with skill under the new name change. The margaritas at Happy Hour are notable. $$ L D pf MI TIERRA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 742-9142, 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 384-3101. These two clean, well-lighted places in the East End serve up familiar Mexican food – fajitas, tacos, carne asada – in a friendly, efficient atmosphere that is drawing raves from its local fans. $ L D pf
SEÑOR IGUANA’S (3 locations) This local chain has gone upscale with re-designed crisp modern decor, wellprepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casual, comfortable modern atmosphere. $ L D pf SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Rd., 459-7776. Founded by Saul Garcia down on Main St.’s museum row, his restaurant has an extensive menu that satisfies those who want standard fare like tacos, fajitas and burritos, and also offers more sophisticated fare like salmon and shrimp, steak and several Mexican chicken preparations. $ L D pf TACO CHOZA 3922 Westport Rd., 409-5080. In the heart of St. Matthews, this locally-owned taqueria also makes burritos and quesadillas, pours craft beers, and offers daily margarita specials. $ L D pf TACO CITY LOUISVILLE 1283 Bardstown Rd., 409-9454, 11601 Shelbyville Rd., 742-1638. Both locations of this Mexican place — run by three Mexico natives — serve tacos on homemade corn tortillas, tortas, salads and burritos, using recipes straight from Mexico like the mole sauce by the owner’s grandma. $ L D f
NEW WAVE BURRITOS 3311 Preston Hwy., 963-2727. The late-night burrito delivery service that has been operating out of borrowed kitchen spaces since late 2014 has moved into its own space at the former Grind Burger location. In addition to their five signature burritos new items include tacos, tortas and chicharrones. $$ D
TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year Taco Bell was born in Southern California, the Taco Tico chain had been gone locally for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ L D
NOCHE MEXICAN BBQ 1838 Bardstown Rd., 467-8015. Inside a de-commissioned Lutheran Church, illuminated by the large stained glass windows in the sanctuary/dining room, you can find authentic Tex-Mex barbecue. Look for brisket and pulled pork smoked with Noche’s special spice blend, fajitas, flautas, green chili macaroni and cheese and grilled Mexican street corn. $$ D pf
TAQUERIA DON JUAN 615 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 920-1238. This addition to Clarksville’s rich array of Mexican restaurants focuses on seafood: ceviche, oysters, seafood cocktails, and caldo de camarones. But it doesn’t neglect meats. Choose tacos filled with lengua or cabeza (tongue or meat pulled from the head) as well as more familiar fixings. $$ L D p
OLE FRIJOLE 5612 Bardstown Rd., 822-3388. After a bit of a hike out Bardstown Rd., you will find oversized margaritas, well-priced, nicely made familiar Mexican food, and a welcoming atmosphere. The customize-yourguacamole bar is a popular feature. $$ L D p
TAQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront. This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ L D
PIÑA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food have another place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $ L D p
TAQUERIA LOS GORDITOS 2017 Brownsboro Rd., 5098676. Joining the burgeoning taco-oriented restaurant choices is this new spot in Clifton. “Gorditos” means “the fat ones.” so expect overfilled tacos, burritos and other Mexican standards. $ B L D
PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Church Rd., 239-4646. $$ L D p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (17 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ L D f RAMIRO’S CANTINA 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333. Ramiro Gandara’s Mexican restaurant in the heart of Crescent Hill’s restaurant row has his mom, Tina Ruton Escajeda, in control in the kitchen. Together they deliver some unique menu items, such as enchiladas verdes, lobster quesadilla, guacamole burger, and shrimp fajitas. And don’t forget Tina’s specialty: scratch-made tamales. Vegetarian choices too, and a full bar. $ L D pf RAMIRO’S CANTINA EXPRESS 253 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 924-7770. Long-time restaurateur Ramiro Gandara’s second restaurant, a quick-casual version of his Frankfort Ave. spot, is now serving in Jeffersonville. Order at the counter, grab and go, or sit down and enjoy. Ramiro features his favorites: burritos, chicken bowls, nachos, tortas and tacos. A full bar, too. $ L D pf SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ LD
p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining
RED = Advertiser
TINO'S TACOS 161 Outer Loop, 742-3030. An extensive menu here offers all the Mexican food choices Americans are familiar with including tortas, burritos, gorditas, quesadillas and fajitas. $ L D p TORCHY'S TACOS 1540 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 645-4800. This Texas-based taco chain has expanded east to Jeffersonville. Try the "Trailer Park" taco with fried chicken, green chiles and pico de gallo, or go for a Scallywag, with coconut-battered shrimp, bacon, green chiles, and peach habanero jam. Or choose a salad, fajita or burrito, There’s a full bar featuring margaritas and specialty cocktails. $$ B L D p f VALLARTA MEXICAN SEAFOOD AND GRILL 9874 Linn Station Rd., 290-6268. This family-owned restaurant serves freshly cooked seafood dishes in the style of Mexico’s Pacific coast, as well as more familiar Mexican fare (tacos, fajitas, burritos). Fans enjoy the large portions. $LDp VICTORIA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2918 Hikes Ln., 709-5178. $ L D f YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs IN, 9030313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana restaurant that offers standard Mexican cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ L D p ZOMBIE TACO 100 W. Washington St. (Moxy Hotel), 7167377. This always-open walk-up taco window at the new Moxy Hotel features Taco Tuesdays specials on tacos and margaritas, a 3-taco survival box with a side of chips and
salsa, and deep discounts for restaurant industry workers on Sundays and Mondays. $$ B L D pf
CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Ct., 327-3033, 1440 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-2489. The Austin, Texas “unchain,” has two area locations, offering a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and Tex-Mex food at reasonable prices. $$ L D pf MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 893-6637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fast-food MexicanAmerican than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ L D SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 365-1424. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Now with two locations, in St. Matthews and Middletown. $ L D f TUMBLEWEED TEX MEX GRILL & MARGARITA BAR (8 locations). Starting as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany, Tumbleweed grew to become an area favorite serving bold, southwest-inspired food such as burritos, spicy chile con queso, mesquite-grilled steaks, fish and chicken. The Margarita Bar offers two dozen tequila varieties and dozens of sweet and tangy margarita combinations. $ L D p
ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ANNIE MAY’S SWEETS CAFÉ 3110 Frankfort Ave., 3842667. The only gluten and nut-free bakery in the state caters to customers with dietary issues such as celiac disease and allergies. Cookies, brownies, cakes, pies, wedding cakes all made without wheat, dairy, eggs, soy or tree nuts. Arrive early, before the vegan and allergen-free oatmeal cream pie cookies sell out. $ BOOMTOWN CREAMERY 114 E. Main St., New Albany IN, (812) 590-1314. Next door to Boomtown Kitchen (in the space that housed the legendary South Side Inn), this ice-cream shop serves hand-dipped ice cream and large shakes. $ L D BOUDREAUX’S NEW ORLEANS STYLE SNO-BALLS 11816 Shelbyville Rd., This little family run shop offers the garishly colored shaved ice treat with all sorts of syrup flavors and toppings. $ f BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510. $ B BUTCHERTOWN GROCERY BAKERY 729 E. Main St., 742-8315. With its move from a cramped upstairs space on Washington Street to more spacious digs on Main, Butchertown Grocery’s bakery maven Barbara Turner now offers a wide range of pastries, breads, chocolates, cookies, sandwiches, soups and take-home dinners. Good Folks coffee provides fresh-squeezed juices and local kombuchas, coffee and espresso. $$ B Br L D p CLIFTON DONUTS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 749-6896. A family from Thailand produces very fresh donuts of all sorts daily to an appreciative crowd from the Clifton corridor. Fans favorably compare the offerings here to those at the chains, lauding freshness of product and friendliness of service. $ B
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021
71
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:26 AM Page 72
COLD STONE CREAMERY 1013 Jefferson Commons Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0034, 2015 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-7750, 976 Breckenridge Ln, 894-6292. The angle that distinguishes this ice cream chain is the long list of add-ons that fans can choose to have worked into their favorite flavor: bananas, berries, candies, cookies and nuts, to name a few. Ice cream cakes, smoothies and shakes too. $ THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979, 2223 Frankfort Ave., 409-4616, 339 W. Cardinal Blvd., 4095090, 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 883-4128, 4005 Summit Plaza Dr. (Paddock Shops), 423-4465, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). Now fans of this “new-fashioned” icecream parlor can find their favorite flavors popping up all over town. And, you can now find Comfy Cow products in Krogers ice cream section. $ f CRUMBL COOKIES 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 405-8156. This gourmet cookie chain specializes in fresh-baked cookies with a weekly rotating menu that always includes a warm milk chocolate chip cookie and a chilled sugar cookie. $ B L D f DAIRY KASTLE 575 Eastern Pkwy., 634-8990. A longtime seasonal favorite that has drawn celebrities (like Denny Crum and Rick Pitino) and is ever popular with Germantown folks craving cones, flurries, milkshakes, sundaes and chili dogs. Seasonal: MarchNovember. $ f DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 3689280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate wrapped in choux pastry are also available. $ DINO’S BAKERY 4162 Bardstown Rd., 493-2396. Dino Ghazawi, whose family owned a bakery in his native Jordan, has renovated space in the Buechel Plaza Shopping Center, installed three ovens for baking pita, French and Italian bread and pies. Many of those are sold wholesale, but retail shoppers can get locally made fresh pita and other Middle Eastern groceries. $ B DUCK DONUTS 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 614-6657. This coastal North Carolina-based chain offers high concept donuts (S’mores donuts, maple-bacon donuts) and a create your own donut option. Or, try a breakfast sandwich built on a donut, if you dare. $ EHRLER'S ICE CREAM 201 E. Main St., 749-2236. Louisville’s iconic ice cream shop returns after a long hiatus. Good, locally-made ice cream and nostalgia for the ice cream treats of childhood will be the main draws. $ f GELATO GILBERTO 9434 Norton Commons Blvd., 4237751. 9434 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-7751, 2240 Frankfort Ave., 422-0908. Justin and Kristin Gilbert so loved the gelato they ate as students in Italy that they returned there after graduating to study gelato making. Their popular Norton Commons store now has a sibling in Clifton. You can get crepes at both stores as well. $ GEORGIA'S SWEET POTATO PIE CO. 1559 Bardstown Rd., 742-2852. If you watched Grace & Frankie, you know how versatile sweet potatoes can be. In addition to several variations on sweet potato pie, ice cream and cookies, you can find sweet potato-infused soy candles, room sprays and wax melts. $ L D
HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ B L D HI-FIVE DOUGHNUTS 1011 E. Main St., 409-5584. Owners Annie Harlow and Leslie Wilson started with a food truck, and now are among the pioneer businesses in the Butcher Block on E. Main St. Customers can create their own with a choice of glazes and toppings or choose house favorites like Kentucky Fried Buttermilk Chicken Doughnut, Bourbon Caramel with Bacon, or Sugah Doughnut. $ B L HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 3737 Lexington Rd., 8933303, 3521 Springhurst Commons Dr., 326-8990, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 3113 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 590-3580, 4810 Dixie Hwy., 409-6100. $ L D f HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this downhomey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ B INSOMNIA COOKIES 1913 S. Fourth St., 385-5143, 948 Baxter Ave., 665-0237. This late-night (til 3 a.m.) cookie and ice cream delivery business was so successful with U of L students that the owners opened a second location in the Highlands. You can order ice cream sandwich cookies too; drink choices are milk or chocolate milk, of course. $ LD JASMIN BAKERY 2201 Steier Ln., 458-0013. This “European-style” bakery offers an eclectic menu of Eastern Mediterranean fare, such as gyros and baklava, as well as breads. $ B L D f JEFF'S DONUTS 5420 IN-62, Jeffersonville IN, 283-3636, 6401 Dutchmans Ln., 365-3299. Jeff concocts 40 variations of donuts. The Texas donut (order in advance) is large enough for several people. Also available are apple and cherry hand pies, cinnamon twists and glazed honey buns. The Jeffersonville location is open 24 hrs. $ B L D KING DONUT 814 Eastern Pkwy., 742-9003. You’ll find a tasty selection of donuts, along with ice cream, breakfast sandwiches and smoothies at this friendly, brightly lit neighborhood favorite on the edge of Germantown. $ B LD KING DONUTS 608 Lyndon Ln., 890-5293. Donuts, yes, but you can also choose muffins, breakfast sandwiches and sandwiches for lunch. Healthy juices as well as coffee. $BLD LA MAISON AUX CREPES 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market). Eight kinds of filled crepes, savory and sweet, and two kinds of waffles are available at this addition to the restaurant row at Logan Street Market. $$ B L D p LEANN'S HOME MADE CHEESECAKES 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 919-597-1625. Whole cheesecakes and cheesecake cupcakes can be found at this new graband-go food option at Logan Street Market. $$$ L D p
GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4994998. This Tennessee-based chain offers a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $
LEAVEN BAKERY 1515 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 536-8823. Zechariah and Kimberly Maxey, veterans of Jack Fry’s and the Brown Hotel, have opened a French bistro/bakery in a 100-year-old New Albany building. In addition to baked goods, the bakery will also serve breakfast and lunch items: eggs Benedict, omelets, mussels with spicy marinara sauce, BLTs with pork belly and other seasonal menu choices. $$ B L f
GOLDEN GATE DONUTS 8605 Smyrna Pkwy., 883-0012. This South End donut shop has garnered copious fans for their always freshly-made donuts and cream-filled Long Johns, French crullers, giant bear claws and apple fritters. Savory breakfast sandwiches too. $ B L
LIÈGE & DAIRY ICE CREAM + WAFFLES 2212 Holiday Manor Ctr., 290-0065. Enjoy this shop’s locally roasted coffee and in-house crafted ice cream. Made with local honey, sorghum molasses, fruits, and non-GMO cream, Liège uses a process that creates a denser ice cream. $ L D
72 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
LOUISVILLE CREAM 632 E. Market St., 882-1516. After three years as an off-the-radar caterer and pop-up seller of premium ice creams, Louisville Cream has settled down in NuLu. Co-founder Darryl Goodner offers eight standard flavors (including Camp Marshmallow, Brown Sugar Brie and Hot Fuzz, roasted peaches with charred jalapenos) and four flavors in rotation, as well as apple pies, bourbon chocolate pies and a third ever-changing pie. $ L D f LUEBERRY ACAI & SUPERFOODS 808 E. Market St., 742-0640. This café serves açai bowls topped with things like goji berries, banana, chia, strawberries and coconut. Smoothies and other healthful options also available. $$ B LD MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 426-9645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ B NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This oldschool, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true — bacon. $ B NORTH LIME DONUTS 1228 S. Seventh St., 384-2320. This Lexington-based bakery has renovated a 19thcentury factory building into a warm and inviting space to eat their made-on-premises donuts on the western edge of Old Louisville. Some of their unusual flavors: blueberry cheesecake, French toast and pumpkin cream cheese. $ B Lf PANCHITOS ICE CREAM 8112 Preston Hwy, 554-6222, 2245 Bardstown Rd., 554-4190. Lexington-based Panchito’s now has two outlets in Louisville, offering Mexican ice cream, popsicles (paletas), tacos, quesadillas and other Mexican snacks. The new Highlands outpost is in the former Bánh Mi Hero building. $ L D PARIS BANH MI & BAKERY 1237 Bardstown Rd., 3849676. You will find a wide variety of Vietnamese sandwiches here, as well as pastries ranging from croissants to apple turnovers and a long list of cakes, some gluten-free. $$ B L D f PEARL STREET TREATS 301 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN. 288-8850. An invigorating walk across the Big Four Bridge will bring you down very close to this family-run frozen yogurt shop that also serves soup, chili, cookies, popcorn, and frozen dog treats. Novelty soda flavors in the cooler, but they will refill your water bottle for free. $ LD PENNY AND PEARL'S BAKESHOP 106 Fairfax Ave., 8906004. This St. Matthews bakery offers 8 to 10 flavors daily of cookies with a crispy edge and a softer middle. Look for weekly specials which include snickerdoodle with brown butter, crème brulée cookies and salted caramel pretzel ‘sammies’. $ B L PHILLY'S BEST FROZEN DESSERTS 3912 Bardstown Rd., 996-0640, 307 Wallace Ave., 916-2022. This variation on cold summer refreshment serves water ice, a summer staple in the owners’ hometown of Philadelphia. This version of flavored water uses a process that shaves ice until it is finely textured and creamy, to which is added a variety of sweet fruit flavors. $ L D f PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your hand-decorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ B POLLY FREEZE 5242 IN-62, Georgetown IN, 945-6911. The scenic drive out Highway 62 to this Southern Indiana institution on hot summer nights has been a tradition since 1952. Soft serve ice cream in any variation (cones, sundaes, shakes, floats), a wide range of burgers, dogs, sandwiches and sides. Worth the trip. $ L D f
RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/30/21 9:26 AM Page 73
RAWNAISSANCE DESSERTS 1759 Bardstown Rd., 4243638. Owner Barbora Shneydman offers “guilt-free” dessert concoctions, a variety of chocolate and fruit truffles, and cakes made with raw vegan ingredients. Everything is free of sugar, grains, soy, dairy and eggs. $ LD SNOWHAT 3801 Poplar Level Rd., 742-6080. After a hot day at the zoo, stop by this New Orleans-style snoball shop for a cooling cone. Blueberry and strawberry flavors, and for the more adventurous: lavender lemonade, watermelon basil and jalapeño margarita. $ L D SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite donut by mid-morning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ B SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. This long-time southern Indiana homestyle bakery is noted for baked goods just like your grandmother made. Its specialty: painted sugar cookies, with designs in white chocolate that change with the seasons and holidays. Also custom cookie and cake designs. $ B SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 899-2008. Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts. $$ f SWEETS BY MORGAN 533 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. 725-0080. Owner Morgan Coomer is dedicated to scratch baking and using real butter in her icings. Expect the usual sweet bakery items like cookies and cupcakes, along with clever specialties. $ B L D
COFFEE CROSSING (1-888-465-6067) 140 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 410 Patrol Rd., Jeffersonville IN, 805 Talaina Pl., New Albany IN, 8105 Highway 311, Sellersburg, IN. All five locations please their Southern Indiana clientele with a full roster of coffee drinks, teas, cider and smoothies.$ B Lf CULTIVATOR COFFEE 1415 E. Spring St., New Albany IN. Hot coffees and espresso here are sourced from Louisville’s Sunergos, while rotating guest roasters from across the country will provide pour-overs and iced coffees. $ B L D f DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ f ENDLESS SUMMER PADDLE & COFFEE COMPANY 1301 Frankfort Ave., 203-1041. Located in the Waterside Apartments, this stand-up paddleboard livery also offers a coffee shop. Fresh juice, smoothies and snacks are available for paddlers, paddleboard students, and landlubbers. $ B L FANTE'S COFFEE 2501 Grinstead Dr., 454-0543. Owner Leo Fante has been in the coffee business most of his life, and has finally opened his own shop across the road from Cherokee Park. Fante imports his beans from small suppliers around the world, and roasts on premise. There is also a limited menu of sandwiches, soups and salads, and breakfast pastries. $ B L D pf FIX COFFEEHOUSE AND BAKERY 10616 Meeting St., 409-5066. Settle in with your laptop at this Norton Commons coffeehouse serving coffees, teas, pastries (including gluten free and vegan versions), and breakfast and lunch sandwiches.$ B f
THE NULU SUNDAE CLUB 823 E. Market St. (NuLu Marketplace), 785-6200. This new addition to NuLu’s culinary lineup offers piled high creative sundaes (“Candyland,” “S’more Brownie Please,” “Breakfast for Big Kids), ice cream by the scoop, cookies and brownies, coffee and hot chocolate. $$ L D f
FLEUR DE TEA 10704 Meeting St.742-9561. Choose from a selection of tea varieties, pastries and bubble tea at this uber-cute Norton Commons tea shop. $ B L D
THE PEACH COBBLER FACTORY 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 496-4020, 801 W. Broadway. This dessert café makes a dozen or so fruit cobblers served with ice cream. Cinnamon rolls and banana puddings (tricked out with added flavors) are also on the menu. $ L D f
FRESCO TEA BAR 216 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 7257691, 223 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN. Bubble tea in many manifestations is the focus here, but stop in for a breakfast bagel or burrito, or cookies or fudge, or a wide selection of “wellness teas.” $ B L
WILLIAM’S BAKERY 1051 N. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN, 284-2867. $ B
FUN TEA 1613 Bardstown Rd., 749-1376. Tea in many variations – pure tea, milk tea, tea lattes, and Taiwanese bubble tea – can be found here, along with slushies, smoothies and bubble puff cake. $ L D f
ABOL CAFÉ 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 384-9430. The coffee served in this St. Matthews shop is from Ethiopia, as are many of the dishes on the brunch menu, which includes checheba (Ethiopian flatbread served with scrambled egg or honey) and quanta firfir, a dried beef and tomato stew. $ B Br L f BEAN 1138 Goss Ave., 785-4079. $ B L BLACKBEARD ESPRESSO 718 W. Main St., 618-0004. Former food truck Blackbeard Espresso now has a Main St. storefront, taking over for Mrs. Potters. Look for coffee, hot and cold teas, milkshakes and smoothies, which the truck’s limited generator couldn’t handle. Baked goods include muffins and scones for those who need a carb lift with their caffeine. $ B L BREW & SIP COFFEE BAR 3800 Shepherdsville Rd., 6183416. Here you will find an ambitious menu of exotic coffee drinks, teas and smoothies, and, for an ostensible coffee bar, an unusual food menu: not just pastries, but sandwiches, wings, and soups. $ B L CLEVER MOOSE CAFÉ 204 S. Hancock St. 805-7346. Situated in the co-working space of Lodgic, Clever Moose Café is a daytime coffee and tea house, with the goal of growing into a full-service restaurant featuring Asian street food. $$ B L f
p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music
HEINE BROTHERS’ COFFEE (16 locations) Heine Bros. continues their dominance in the local brewing scene. The stores are always friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches. $ f HIGHVIEW ICE CREAM & COFFEE 7525 Outer Loop, 618-3809. This suburban oasis offers coffee and specialty coffee drinks made from Sunergos beans and serves locally-made Bernoulli Small Batch Ice Cream. $ B L D f KOLKIN COFFEE 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 599-8410. This family run caffeine dispensary on the north side of New Albany serves coffee from Sunergos roastery in a cheerful, inviting environment. $ LOUISVILLE TEA COMPANY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 365-2516. Teas of all sorts, pastries and cookies make for a perfect morning snack the English call “elevenses.” $BL MICKEY’S 624 Vincennes St., New Albany IN. An off-shoot of McQuixote Books and Coffee in Portland (owner Mickey Ball is a co-owner there), this used bookstore and coffee shop uses Good Folks Coffee, with teas from Elmwood Inn Fine Teas and baked goods from Viking Hat Bakery and Payne Street Bakehouse. $ B L D f
NTABA COFFEE HAUS 2407 Brownsboro Rd., 871-5082., 1860 Mellwood Ave., 749-0918. It is always fun to see former chain restaurant buildings repurposed. The onetime Pizza Hut in Clifton on Brownsboro Road is now a purveyor of African-sourced coffees and teas. A second loaction has been added in Mellwood Arts Center. $ B L PEARL STREET GAME & COFFEE HOUSE 405 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN, 648-1663. The name says it all: you can play your favorite boards games from the extensive library of such while enjoying coffee drinks, fresh fruit smoothies, lavender lattes, and sandwiches. $ B L D f PLEASE & THANK YOU 800 E. Market St., 553-0113, 2341 Frankfort Ave., 432-8614, 9561 U.S. Hwy 42, 5449225. This small-batch bakery and coffeehouse offering quiches, panini, cookies, and a hip vibe. $ B L f PREGAME COFFEE 723 E. Market St., 645-0324. It’s a coffee shop. No, it’s a sports bar. Well, it is both. Stop in in the morning to talk about sports and order from a selection of coffee drinks, teas and beer and wine as well. Or come back during game time and watch your games in a coffee house environment. $ B L D p QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129, 327 W. Cardinal Blvd., 690-5553, 802 E. Main St., 473-5379, 117 St. Matthews Ave., 242-8608. Fans of this local purveyor of excellent coffee and provider of amenable working spaces can find their caffeine fix and wi-fi hotspot at any of the four locations. $ pf RED HOT ROASTERS 1399 Lexington Rd., 569-0000. Sondra Powell has closed her Butchertown Block sit down store and returned to purveying her excellent houseroasted coffee and refreshing coffee drinks from her drivethru location in Irish Hill. $ f SAFAI COFFEE 1707 Bardstown Rd., 384-3555, 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market). This casual spot boasts the ambiance of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, house-made crepes, and coffee roasted at the Logan Street Market, where there is a second shop. $ B L f SCOOTER'S COFFEE 4703 Dixie Hwy., 260-8642, 11506 Shelbyville Rd. This Omaha-based chain of drive-through coffee stops has plans to add five Louisville-area locations to its portfolio of over 300 outlets around the Midwest. Red Bull infusions, too, and pastries and breakfast items. $BLD SISTER BEAN’S 5225 New Cut Rd., 364-0082. $ f STARBUCKS COFFEE (40+ locations) $ f STARLIGHT COFFEE CO. 3131 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 542-1522, 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1404, 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg IN. 748-7000. For almost twenty years this staple of the Southern Indiana coffee culture has been roasting and serving its custom-blends to happy Hoosiers. Owner Jim Book has recently expanded north to Sellersburg, where he will move the company’s roasting and wholesale operations. $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820, 231 S. Fifth St., 5893222, 1647 Norris Pl., 919-9676. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee. $ THE COFFEE BOXX 1512 Portland Ave., 544-5787. This new Portland coffee bar fills the former McQuixote Books and Coffee space and offers all you’d expect: a range of popular coffee drinks, teas and some specialty items such as Vietnamese coffee and caramel cream cold brew. $ B L f THE COFFEE ZONE 9601 Whipps Mill Rd., 708-1522. North Carolinian transplant Craig Bishop has established a beachhead in Louisville. In addition to some good java, he features bakery items, such as pastries, and assorted sandwiches. $ f www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 73
MAP INDEX
Maps_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/30/21 9:41 AM Page 74
MAP # DIRECTION DOWNTOWN 1 downtown louisville NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel
74 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
PAGE #
84 85 86 87
MAP # DIRECTION EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder
PAGE #
88 89 90 90
MAP # DIRECTION WEST 9 west louisville NORTH EAST 10 prospect SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek SOUTH WEST 12 shively – pleasure ridge
PAGE #
91
91 91 92
MAP # DIRECTION SOUTH 13 old louisville – airport INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs INDIANA 15 clarksville INDIANA 16 jeffersonville
MAP INDEX
Maps_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/30/21 9:41 AM Page 75
PAGE #
93 94 95 95
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 75
DOWNTOWN
MAP • 1
Maps_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/30/21 9:41 AM Page 76
76 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON
MAP • 2
Maps_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/30/21 9:41 AM Page 77
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 77
(NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS
MAP • 3
Maps_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/30/21 9:41 AM Page 78
78 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
(SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL
MAP • 4
Maps_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/30/21 9:41 AM Page 79
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 79
(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN
MAP • 5
Maps_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/30/21 9:41 AM Page 80
80 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
(EAST) HURSTBOURNE SOUTH – FOREST HILLS – JEFFERSONTOWN
MAP • 6
Maps_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/30/21 9:41 AM Page 81
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 81
MAP • 8
(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER
(NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT
MAP • 7
Maps_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/30/21 9:41 AM Page 82
82 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
MAP • 11
(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK
(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT
MAP • 10
(WEST) WEST LOUISVILLE
MAP • 9
Maps_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/30/21 9:42 AM Page 83
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 83
(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE
MAP • 12
Maps_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/30/21 9:42 AM Page 84
84 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
(SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT
MAP • 13
Maps_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/30/21 9:42 AM Page 85
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 85
(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS
MAP • 14
Maps_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/30/21 9:42 AM Page 86
86 Winter 2021 www.foodanddine.com
MAP • 16
(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE
(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE
MAP • 15
Maps_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/30/21 9:42 AM Page 87
www.foodanddine.com Winter 2021 87
Maps_Win21_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/30/21 9:42 AM Page 88
Cover Pages_Fall21_Ed-final.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 11/23/21 3:27 PM Page 3
Cover Pages_Fall21_Ed-final.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 11/23/21 3:27 PM Page 4