Summer 2014 (Vol. 44)

SUMMER 2014 | MAY - JUNE - JULY

profiles the exchange|brasserie provence|f.a.b.d. momma’s mustard, pickles & bbq|smoketown usa

chef Q&A

josh bettis of the english grill

restaurant guide

over 1,000 restaurant listings and maps to them all

plus $10 challenge|six summer wines the berry bounty|tequila trend

(pictured) Grapefruit caprese from The Exchange Pub + Kitchen

NOW

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SUMMER 2014 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF RON MIKULAK BUSINESS MANAGER PAUL M. SMITH CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY ONLINE EDITOR STEVE COOMES COLUMNISTS ASHLEE CLARK THOMPSON STEVE COOMES SCOTT HARPER ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD CONTRIBUTING WRITERS CARLA CARLTON GREG GAPSIS MICHAEL L. JONES KATY YOCOM MAGAZINE DESIGN AND LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR KATHY KULWICKI SALES MANAGER GINA R. WOLFE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE

Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 (502) 509-EATS (3287)

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@FoodAndDining For Advertising information call 502.509.3287 (EATS) Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. *Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.

ON THE COVER: Grapefruit caprese from The Exchange Pub + Kitchen (see story page 18) Photo by Dan Dry 4

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contents

SUMMER 2014 - VOLUME 44

RESTAURANT GUIDE

44

DINING GUIDE Our comprehensive listing of over 1,000 area restaurants complete with reviews.

MAPS (RESTAURANT LOCATOR)

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Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps — a unique resource you can’t find elsewhere.

FEATURES

18 42

14

CHEF Q & A English Grill Chef Josh Bettis, the new guy in town, introduces himself by answering some questions.

38

PROFILES THE EXCHANGE PUB + KITCHEN

18

Owner Ian Hall risked it all and came out a winner with seasonal gastropub fare in New Albany’s new restaurant row.

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BRASSERIE PROVENCE A bit of Southern France has settled down on Hurstbourne Pkwy., where Guy Genoud and his wife, Stacy Duncan, are hosts at their informal French restaurant.

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PICK THREE: Barbecue You get it every summer, that barbecue jones. Here are three spots — Smoketown USA and Momma’s Mustard, Pickles & BBQ, and FABD — that can sate that need for smoky, tender meat.

COLUMNS STARTERS

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COMINGS & GOINGS A summary of changes on the local restaurant scene, with openings, closings, moves and more.

$10 CHALLENGE: Check’s Cafe

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Our maven of cheap eats finds lots to like at Germantown’s iconic bar and grill, where the roast beef sandwich transported her back to her mother’s Sunday dinners.

FOOD COOKING WITH RON: Bountiful Berries

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Local berries — pick ’em yourself or get them at markets, then eat them ’til they’re gone.

LIQUIDS

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SPIRITS: Tequila If you like Bourbon, you’ll like tequila, our spirits expert avers, and suggests how best to appreciate the complex flavors of distilled agave nectar.

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CORK 101 Six light, refreshing wines that will help make summer’s heat more bearable.

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starters comings & goings

BY RON MIKULAK | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

comings&goings The last few months have generated considerable activity in the local restaurant world, in terms of the number of new dining spots that have opened, as well as the number that have closed. None of the openings carry the cachet and eager anticipation that, say, The Place Downstairs did as the last issue of F&D went to press, but it is nonetheless encouraging that the level of new starts, and the diversity of cuisines, remain high.

Among the closings, Main Street Café and Relish were the biggest surprises. For about a year, Miguel and Maggie De La Torre had been considering retiring, so the closing of their Spanish restaurant and adjoining tapas bar was anticipated. The other dozen or so businesses that shut down in the last three months have been an assortment of small operations, ethnic eateries and specialized operations like donut and cupcake shops that couldn’t grab purchase in the ever-fluid marketplace.

NEW TABLES Two of the more intriguing new operations on the scene are Gralehaus, 1001 Baxter Ave., and Bar Code 1758, 1758 Frankfort Ave. The latter is a resuscitation of the long-closed Maido space in Clifton, renovated by Song Kim, the chef at Osaka Sushi, who will serve an eclectic menu of pan-Asian small plates such as sushi, sashimi and yakitori (grilled skewered meats), all until 2 a.m. every night except Sunday.

Gralehaus opened in a Highlands Victorian house located directly behind The Holy Grale. There, one can find upscale deli takeout, unusual breakfast items, such as biscuits with duck gravy, and lamb merguez crepinette with North African-spiced grits.

Lunch is served too — fun sandwiches and beer cocktails. In the works are plans for a bed and breakfast upstairs in the house.

The Cure Lounge (1481 S. Shelby St.), a hip stop in Germantown owned by Alison Freels, serves a wide range of craft beers (PBR, too, of course), and what she calls “easy eats” — pierogies, sandwiches and snacks like Hawaiian and Italian stuffed sticks that can be eaten mostly with one’s hands.

Tavern on Fourth is the newest iteration of the stylish, hopping, good-time bar and grill common to Fourth Street Live. It occupies a space on the second level of the Kaufman-Straus Building, and the Sports and Social Club, on the first level, will provide food and drink service for Tavern on Fourth.

Battling pizza styles have entered a crowded market. Old School NY Pizza is baking at 12907 Factory Ln., and East of Chicago Pizza is in Middletown at 12416 Shelbyville Rd. Also in Middletown, Plump Peacock Bakery and Café is a new ladies’ lunch place at 11601 Main St. 6

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Aside from the Prince Hookah Lounge, which offers Middle Eastern quick-casual food along with exotically flavored smokes at 1489 S. Fourth St., in Old Louisville, most of the other new restaurants have put down roots in the suburbs.

Prospect Café is open at 9550 Hwy. 42, Downhome Cafeteria has opened its serving line at 2605 Rockford Ln., and Pujols Mexican is now at 9904 Linn Station Rd. Dasha Barbour’s Southern Bistro serves home-style food at 3825 Bardstown Rd., and Rooster Creek does likewise at 5637 Outer Loop. Rob-A-Que is smoking at 4214 Bishop Ln., and FDKY BBQ will open soon at 9606 Taylorsville Rd. Andalous Mediterranean Cuisine has settled in at 2319 Brownsboro Rd., Dino’s Bakery and Mediterranean Market, 4162 Bardstown Rd., is baking fresh pita and selling halal meats and other ethnic groceries. Amillio’s Burritos & More soon will be serving Mexican food at 4601 Jennings Ln. And, across the river, Olive Leaf Bistro is an elegant little place at 130 W. Riverside Dr., in Jeffersonville, offering a pan-Mediterranean menu, dishes from Spain and Southern France as well as from Greece and the Levant.

Expansion of existing restaurants to additional locations is usually a sign of confidence in the market. The Comfy Cow continues spreading frozen joy at two new locations (1449 Bardstown Rd.), the former Heine Brothers store at the corner of Eastern Pkwy., and in New Albany (109 E. Market St.) in a remodeled historic building near the Exchange Pub + Kitchen.

J. Gumbo’s has also opened a new outlet across the river, at 103 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville, inside Quad Café. Now you can order a bowl of jambalaya, as well as Quad’s popular burgers, flatbreads or loaded potatoes.

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After a successful 25-year run, Maggie and Miguel De La Torre decided to conclude the run of their two Bardstown Road mainstays — De la Torre’s and La Bodega.

Pita Pit has also opened a new store in Middletown, at 12537 Shelbyville Rd., and long-time St. Matthews fixture W.W. Cousins has finally decided to offer their upscale burgers and fixings to another neighborhood, opening a second restaurant at 4112 Outer Loop.

CLOSINGS Twenty-five years is a remarkable run for a restaurant, so when the husband and wife team behind De La Torre’s and La Bodega, 1606 and 1604 Bardstown Rd., started talking about retiring, their fans had mixed emotions. They understood Maggie’s desire to see more of her grandchildren in California and England, but regretted the loss of those grilled calamari and paellas. When they recently received an attractive offer for their adjacent properties, Maggie and Miguel saw it was time to say adios.

In its place comes Louvino, a wine bar serving tapas, set to open in June with Tavis Rockwell as executive chef. His move there followed seven years under 8

Summer 2014 www.foodanddine.com

the tutelage of — and with the blessing of — Dean Corbett in the kitchens of Corbett’s and Equus.

Two more abrupt closings surprised the dining community in recent weeks.

Main Street Café, 217 E. Main St., in the Ice House complex, had announced renovation and expansion plans, but a few weeks later, the restaurant closed suddenly. The space will now be used strictly for events.

Just a little ways from downtown at 1346 River Rd., Relish made a splash when it opened last year, first with lunch and gourmet carryout, later with dinner. Fans of long time Jack Fry’s owner Susan Seiller were thrilled she was back in the game, but her restaurant was immediately challenged with seating and parking limitations. An unexpectedly long wait for a full liquor license further constrained income, and Seiller, not seeing reasonable profitability in the near term, closed in April.

One more abrupt and unexpected closing is the Jamba Juice at 320 S. Fourth St., on the edge of Fourth Street Live.

Many were taken by surprise when Relish (top) and Main Street Café, two stylish new restaurants, abruptly shuttered.

Amshoff’s Fish Inn Again, 8402 Hudson Ln., closed, along with Bosna Mak at 3825 Old Bardstown Rd., 30 Red Sports Saloon at 9601 Newbridge Rd., and Teri Ann’s at 2605 Rockford Ln. (The good news is all three locations quickly found new tenants, Andalous Mediterranean, Down home Cafeteria, and Dasha Barbour’s, respectively, will try to make a go of it in those spaces.) Mexico Viejo, 2319 Brownsboro Rd., Zaytun Mediterranean Grill, 2286 Bardstown Rd., and Mexico Tipico, 6517 Dixie Hwy., have all closed.

In New Albany, three restaurants ceased operations: Gregg’s BBQ Joint at 822 State St., La Bocca, 134 E. Market St., which had a run of several years; and DP UpDogs, 147 E. Market St., which couldn’t capture the charisma at the funky little corner spot that long-time predecessor Little Chef exuded.

And two purveyors of sugary delights have, alas, ended their noble calling.

Copper Cupcake, 10616 Meeting St., in Norton Commons, and Police Donuts, 12416 Shelbyville Rd., have both closed.

Three multi-outlet local businesses have contracted slightly. Wick’s Pizza at

9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., left the Ramada Plaza Hotel to make room for a sports bar. Heine Brothers, in the process of renovating several locations, gave up the coffee shop at 1449 Bardstown Rd., which is now a Comfy Cow store. (Three frozen dessert sellers will be within a stone’s throw of each other over the Eastern Parkway intersection.) And El Tarasco has closed its store at 9606 Taylorsville Rd., where FDKY BBQ will soon star t smoking.

CHANGES And it seems appropriate to clarify some shuffling that’s been going on. The Adobo Mexican Restaurant, at 5012 Bardstown Rd., has come under the Sol Aztecas umbrella. Three other businesses are on the move. Cake Flour moved from NuLu out to the East End, and the W.g.

Grinders store that was downtown followed suit. The former is now at 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., and the latter is at 2415 Lime Kiln. And Muscle Monkey Grill has moved around the corner from their library location to 147 E. Market St., New Albany, where DP UpDogs’ run ended.

And, finally, new ownership of three

properties promises some changes and some continuity. Kristin Fults, former partner in Bluegrass Burgers, is now the operating partner in Meridian Café (112 Meridian Ave., in St. Matthews). Sunday breakfast and dinner are in the works.

Nabil Al-Saba, owner of The Grape Leaf, has assumed ownership of the Pita Delites building at 1616 Grinstead Dr., and will update and expand its menu under the name Zad Modern Mediterranean. And The Brewery (426 Baxter Ave.) is now being operated by a four some (Dean Corbett, Shawn Ward, Brian Flowers and Nirmesh Agrawal) par t nership dubbed Louisville Eats Good LLC. In addition to its completely overhauled menu, the concept will be rebranded as Junction 426 in July.

CORRECTION And we must apologize to the good folks at Quiznos Subs downtown at 223 S. Fifth St. Last issue we incorrectly reported that they had closed. We are happy to state correctly that Quiznos at 223. S. Fifth St. is open and continues to provide good food to its loyal customer base. F&D regrets the error. F&D

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about food $10 challenge

$10

BY ASHLEE CLARK THOMPSON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

` Check’s Cafe challenge

10 Summer 2014 www.foodanddine.com

This Germantown mainstay continues to deliver tasty comfort food.

Good food shouldn’t be a luxur y. In this column, I set out to prove that it is possible to eat a high-quality, low-cost meal within Louisville’s diverse and expanding food scene. My goal is to find a meal at a local restaurant that costs $10 or less (excluding the tip), an ideal limit for those of us who are cashstrapped but have a hard time sacrificing a nice meal outside of the house.

The gentrification of Germantown is on display across the two- and four-tops of Check’s Café. Thirtysomethings new to Germantown sit elbow-to-elbow with boomers who may have been visiting Check’s for decades. But the atmosphere isn’t so much oil and vinegar as it is peanut butter and jelly — two distinctly different personalities that are enhanced once they come together. This Germantown neighborhood favorite combines humble, diner-style food with the buzz and tight quarters of a bar to attract a diverse clientele that includes families, couples, singles, and any stray in between.

There’s no room for pretension at Check’s, located on East Burnett Avenue. It’s too crowded for big egos, and a do-it-yourself attitude is pervasive. The Check’s economy removes hosts and servers from your dining experience. In return, you receive a meal memorable for its down-home taste and prices to match.

You step right into the dining room instead of a waiting area in this unassuming brick building, so watch out for the folks seated by the door. Make a left and order at the bar.

The menu is posted on the wall to the right of the register; specials are scrawled on a dryerase board underneath the main offerings. Find a seat (there’s a room up a step in the back if the main dining room is full) and wait for a food runner to shout your name as he exits the kitchen. Somehow, you always manage to hear your name called over the din.

The menu is equal parts bar fare and hole-in-the-wall. The appetizer selection would be perfect for game-time gluttony, including hot wings (10 for $6.95), chili cheese fries ($5.75), or if you want to pretend to be healthy, breaded and fried broccoli bites ($4.95).

I turn to the entrées when I get a little nostalgic for the simple food that I used to eat with reckless abandon, oblivious of calorie counts. It’s not too often that you come across a fried bologna sandwich on rye ($3.50); and of course there’s fried chicken (a leg and a thigh or a breast and a wing, $4.75).

The sandwiches are the stand-out at Check’s. I have a soft spot for the fish sandwich ($7.50), a wedge of cod served on grilled rye bread. The sauce that coats an enormous chicken breast on the buffalo chicken sandwich ($6.75) begins to sting your nostrils as soon as the tray hits the table.

On my latest visit, I went for the open-faced roast beef sandwich with mashed potatoes and Brussels sprouts ($7.95). If you see this on the dry-erase board, change any plans you had for another order. This dish is worth at least one try, if not more. A stack of thinly sliced roast beef covers two pieces of white bread. A healthy coating of thick brown gravy covers the meat and mound of mashed potatoes.

The bread disintegrates under the weight of it all. This is a sandwich that requires a knife and fork to fully enjoy, and enjoy it you will. The meat is tender, the gravy is hot. It’s a dish that entices you to take a bit of meat, mashed potato and sprout in the same bite for optimum enjoyment. It reminds me of Sunday dinners at my mother’s house, when she had a whole day to roast meat low and slow for a juicy, delicate main dish. Next time, if I’m feeling especially nostalgic and carb-hungry, I might sub out the Brussels sprouts for macaroni and cheese.

A few more dollars will let you cap off your night with an adult beverage, but $10 will cover a hearty meal in a place that hums with laughter and conversation. Hang around long enough, and you might even catch some karaoke.

The Bottom Line: Open-faced roast beef sandwich (with two sides): $7.95 Soft drink: $1.50 Total (with tax and before tip): $10.02 Mission: Accomplished (close enough)

Check’s Cafe | 1101 East Burnett Ave. | (502) 637-9515 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2014

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a l i u q e TBrothers in the Barrel

BY STEVE COOMES

T

he Bourbon craze deserves some credit for tequila’s soaring popularity.

Most Baby Boomers recall Bourbon as being “the drunk’s drink” in the 1970s.

Back then, gin was coming in, vodka was rockin’ and rum was running. Clear was king and brown was down.

What a difference a generation makes.

Tequila was similarly neglected until the early 1990s, when the good stuff began creeping north into better bars. Before that, the tequila most of America got was mixto, a low-quality blend of cheap tequila, sugary flavorings and color. No wonder the “lick, squeeze and shoot” method was invented for choking it down.

Drinking tequila straight is still the best way to understand its nuances, but not in the old “frat party” way. Just like Bourbon, it should be sipped slowly and at room temperature. (Unlike Bourbon, which opens up and releases flavors and aromas with a few drops of water, tequila doesn’t benefit from dilution or the addition of ice.)

Several local restaurants are working to educate customers on the sipping approach, among them: Manny & Merle, Wild Rita’s, El Camino, The Silver Dollar and Sol Aztecas. All have substantial tequila lists, with 40 to 70 different selections. Some also have loads of mezcal, tequila’s smoky cousin.

Junction 426 (the name to be given The Brewery in July, when its makeover concludes) will make a prominent tequila push. And five-unit Señor Iguana’s, owned by Juan Segoviano, a native of Degollado, Jalisco, Mexico, (where nearly all tequila is made) wants to create a Tequila Trail that mirrors Louisville’s Urban Bourbon Trail.

It would be easy to explain tequila’s newfound popularity as drinkers latching on to what’s hot and new, but some of it should be credited to the Bourbon craze, for educating the palates of straight-spirit drinkers.

I’d been to a few Bourbon tastings prior to sipping tequila straight. So when I tasted several aged tequilas from Casa Noble at The Blind Pig in 2011, I recognized the many flavors shared with 12 Summer 2014 www.foodanddine.com

Bourbon (caramel, citrus, honey and cinnamon among them). Like Bourbon, reposado and añejo tequilas (explanations below) get some barrel aging and pick up those same wood notes. In fact, about 98 percent of aged tequila spends time in used Bourbon barrels, so some overlap is ensured.

A short primer Tequila is made from the Blue Weber agave plant, a member of the lily family that looks like the top of a pineapple. An agave plant grows seven to 12 years in semi-arid climates before harvesting. At that time, its sharp, pointed leaves, which spread about five feet from the center, are cut off to reveal the eggshaped center, called the piña. Within the piña are all the plant’s fermentable sugars.

To extract that sugar, piñas are roasted in steam-jacketed hornos (ovens) until soft, and then pulverized to release the agave nectar. The nectar is mixed with water and fermented in open vessels that attract airborne yeast. After about three days, the

fermented juice is distilled at least twice, to achieve a liquid of about 115 proof.

Some of it will be diluted to 80 proof and bottled as blanco (or plata or silver or crystal — it is all unaged). Other portions will be aged in wooden barrels for two to 11 months and called reposado (“rested”); 12 to 23 months for añejo (“aged”); and 24 months or longer for extra añejo.

Blanco is the purest expression of distilled agave, and if you’re a tequila cocktail lover, you want those fruity and peppery accents slashing through your mixer. It’s also excellent for sipping straight, and doing so is the quickest way to learn what tequila is supposed to taste like.

Reposado and añejo typically are meant for sipping neat and at room temperature. (There’s no sin in working either into a cocktail as long as you don’t mind the cost!) Depending on its barrel time, reposado is commonly straw-colored and emerges bearing roasted agave notes (think of the aroma of a cooked honey glaze) commingled with flavors of wood, vanilla, toast and cinnamon. It is simultaneously spicy and soft.

Given the intense summer heat in Mexico, tequila ages rapidly, and añejo is a delicious example of that hastened maturity. In three years, the remaining amber liquid bears flavors of butterscotch and toffee that take a decade to emerge in Bourbon. The resulting silky mouthfeel is as luxurious as flan, and the aromas of cinnamon and citrus are powerful.

There are two great ways to learn about tequila: Go to any of the bars mentioned above, ask questions and start tasting.

Or buy a bottle of blanco, reposado and añejo from the same distiller and compare at home. Pour about a half ounce of each into separate glasses, let stand 20 minutes, then sniff, taste and compare.

Brown-Forman’s Herradura line is a great place to star t, since all three of its expressions overlap nicely.

Though great blanco can cost up wards of $50 a bottle, plenty of bargains can be had at $25. Good reposado will start in the $30 range, and añejo in the $40s. Great ones can soar past $60, even $100 a bottle quickly, so choose wisely.

For great selection and advice, visit Party Mart on Rudy Lane, Westport Whiskey & Wine (Westport Village), and the Prospect Party Center on Hwy. 42. F&D

Sweet! inspired cuisine since

901 Barret Avenue www.WiltshirePantryCafe.com Open for Breakfast & Lunch Tuesday thru Sunday 502.581-8561

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people and places profiles

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

CHEF JOSH BETTIS Age: 44 Current Restaurant: Executive Chef at the Brown Hotel Previous Restaurants: Montelucia Resort (Scottsdale, Arizona) Neighborhood (current): Downtown Louisville Hometown: Chicago, Illinois Significant Other: Wife, Summer Kids: None Favorite Hobbies: Cooking at home, socializing with friends and family Favorite Kitchen Gadget: A good slow cooker

QA &

Chef Josh Bettis had been executive chef at the Brown Hotel for just four months when he sat down with Food & Dining. Bettis comes to the hotel from Scottsdale, Arizona where he served as executive sous chef at the Montelucia Resort and Spa. He was lured to the River City by the history of the Brown and also by Louisville’s reputation as a culinary hotspot. The graduate of the Scottsdale Culinary Institute had to hit the ground running to get ready for his first Kentucky Derby, but he is confident that he will be able to maintain the standard set by past chefs at the Brown.

So, how many Hot Browns do you make?

This is my first Derby, but I understand that the week of Derby we expect to put out about 1,500.

Did you have a learning curve in how to make the perfect Hot Brown?

Sure. I stood over the shoulders of people on the line. I wanted to see the product from beginning to end and how it was fired. When I got into town a lot of people were asking me if I was going to change the Hot Brown. I said, “Absolutely not.” I would never change part of history.

You’ve worked at a lot of resorts. Is there a difference between working in a hotel and a resort?

There is and there isn’t. Every place you work is different, but both are all about hospitality. The bottom line is the guest.You want to do your best work and present the best product no matter where you are.

What is your first food memory?

We were on a family vacation and I was very young. The restaurant we were in had a build-your-own omelet on the menu. I

ordered an omelet with everything. My dad still makes fun of me today because this would have been like a $50 omelet.

Who has influenced your cooking the most?

A lot of the chefs I worked with. Just hands-on chefs like Odran Lucey in Ireland and Philippe Trosch in the Ventana Room in the Ventana Canyon Resort.

Why did you become a chef?

I’m the youngest of four children. When we were young, my brother and two sisters used to order off the kid’s menu, but I never did. I liked flavors and trying new things. I was also fascinated by the kitchen.

I would look at the double doors and wonder, ‘What goes on back there?’

What did you want to be when you grew up?

I went to college and earned a political science degree. I wanted to be a stock broker like my father. But after graduation, my goals changed. I went from wanting to be on the Chicago Board of Exchange to being a dishwasher. To say the least, my

(below left) An American classic, The Brown Hotel’s own Hot Brown. (center) Crispy Kentucky pork belly with red onion jam and sweet mustard gastrique on a soft housebaked brioche. (right) Heirloom tomato salad with an avocado goat cheese mousse, baby arugula, grilled lemon and honey emulsion. parents weren’t too happy. Today, they are pleased with what I have accomplished.

Who are your favorite chefs?

I like Thomas Keller’s style. I liked the late great Charlie Trotter. Maybe that’s the Chicago in me.

Besides the Brown Hotel, what is your favorite restaurant in Louisville?

I don’t get out much, but I do like Corbett’s a lot. My wife loves Pho, so we’ve gone to the Vietnam Kitchen.

Did you know that Louisville was such a culinary town before you came here?

That was a big factor in my decisionmaking process when I decided to move here. Obviously working at the hotel and having a great GM was the clincher, but it helps to have a city with a reputation for good food.

Which seasonings don’t you respect?

I’ve got to say I’m not a fan of white pepper.

Which are underrated?

I know an herb that is. I really love Tarragon, but I also really, really like sea salt. I use sea

Pressed watermelon tuna nicoise with Peruvian potatoes, haricot vert and a whole grain mustard cream.

QA &

salt in my regular cooking. I don’t use kosher salt, I use sea salt.

Do you have a go-to farmers market and what do usually shop for there?

My specialty greens I do with Growganica Farms. Those are aquaponically grown.

They are 100 percent sustainable. They are fertilized by koi fish. Then there is a market in Mid-City Mall that I use for my personal produce, a place called Valu-Mar t, I was really impressed by the quality of their produce. I also use Creation Gardens a lot.

Are there any culinary trends you are wild about right now?

I just like getting back to simplicity. I don’t like huge, heavy marinades. I don’t like to adulterate my food with a bunch of foreign flavors. I like everything on the plate to be there for a reason, and have a flavor of its own. If I put a piece of monkfish on a plate, I want them to taste the monkfish.

Any trends you consider overrated?

Farm to table. A lot of people like to use that term because it sounds good. But I don’t think that everyone practices it as well as they should if they are going to use that terminology.

What do you think is the next worthwhile food/dining trend?

Putting the focus back on health. Sure there is always a place for butter sauces and heavy creams, but there is also room to offer a more health-conscious fare.

People are watching more what they’re eating. There are a lot of lactose-free and gluten-free people. A lot of people are intolerant to these things, but it is a health choice. Being able to offer these things was an advantage to me working in spas.

What’s your greatest strength in the kitchen?

Organization. Fifty percent of your success is going to come from organizing. I always tell my people, “Remember to use your head before your hands.”

What’s your downfall?

I take things a little too personally sometimes. Sometimes I get a little too woundup in perfection.

Sweet chili sauce. I did a dish with sweet chili sauce and people really didn’t under stand why it was in there.

What’s in your fridge at home?

A lot of fresh produce, grapes, kale. I know I’ve got a pork shoulder which I’m going to throw in my slow cooker.

Is there anything in that home fridge you’d rather not admit to having?

I’m a sucker for Jolly Rancher Ice Pops — green apple and watermelon.

What food is your guilty pleasure?

I do eat a lot of Ramen noodles. I know it’s all sodium, but it’s comforting to me.

Your favorite quick meal to prepare at home?

Omelets. I love eggs.

Best cooking tip for a novice?

Don’t seatbelt yourself to a recipe. Have fun with the dishes and put your own twist on things.

What’s your last meal on earth, if you had the chance to choose?

With my wife, Summer, and her slowcooked pork shoulder.

What do you aspire to?

To be successful in making as many people happy as I can at this hotel. I want people leaving here saying, “Wow, that was a great experience.”

Saddle up and Ride!

Prepare for Derby with the class of a thoroughbred.

Open 7 Days a Week in Louisville’s Historic Highlands.

Our knowledgeable staff will guide you through our extensive wine selection and more than 40 bourbon and whiskey distilleries or explore online at: www.KyBourbon.net

Most memorable meal?

I had a great meal at Spago. They kept sending out food to me. When I finally threw in the towel and said I couldn’t eat anymore, the pastry chef came out. She said, “But chef, you didn’t give me a chance.” She sent me out a wonderful hot sticky bun dessert.

What elements separate an everyday dish from something a diner might savor years later?

The most important thing about eating is the flavors. That’s where I go back to simplicity, respecting your ingredients.

What’s your favorite go-to ingredient?

Sea salt and pepper. Things need to be seasoned properly.

If you could cook a meal for anyone, who would it be and what would you cook?

I would cook for each chef I worked for in the past. I’d cook something they taught me and then ask each one, “Did I get it right this time?”

Is there a guilty-secret ingredient in your kitchen — something you’d rather not be spotted using?

Best thing you’ve ever cooked?

Whatever I cooked that put a smile on a customer’s face. F&D

1529 Bardstown Road www.OldTownWine.com 502.451.8591

www.foodanddine.com Summer 2014 17

people and places profiles

BY KATY YOCOM | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

EXCHANGE PUB + KITCHEN 118 W. Main Street, New Albany (812) 948.6501

THE exchange rates Wi th th e Exch an ge P u b + K i tch en , Ian Hal l h as taken a h i sto ri c New Al bany bu i l di n g an d tran sfo rm ed i t i n to a styl i sh restau ran t th at wo u l d f i t ri gh t i n to So Ho. Wi th th e Exch an ge as an an ch o r, th e f u tu re l o o ks bri gh t fo r New Al bany’s o n ce- spu tteri n g down town revi val .

en years ago, New Albany native Ian Hall — then in his late 20s and already a 10year veteran of the restaurant business — made a vow to himself. “If I’m going to be in this business, by the time I’m 30 I’m gonna have my own place,” he remembers deciding.

It might not have been the most prudent decision. But then, Hall is a risk-taker. In the past 10 years, he has added the following items to his resume: Opened a bar that seemed like a good idea at the time; staved off impending financial ruin; engineered a desperate relaunch, from failing bar to strip-mall gastropub; seen his floundering for tunes reversed with one good newspaper review; bought a ram shackle historic building he Ian Hall, Restaurateur describes as “four walls and half a roof ”; launched his own restaurant design company to restore, repurpose, and remodel the building into a 200-seat restaurant; and — with the help of Executive Chef Robert Temple — turned it into one of New Albany’s leading dining spots.

And he’s not done yet. Now that the Exchange Pub + Kitchen has gotten its feet solidly underneath it, he’s opening a Comfy Cow franchise just in time for ice-cream season.

Clearly, Ian Hall is building up momentum.

At 37, Hall looks a bit like an overgrown kid, tall and thin, clad in sneakers and skinny jeans, and sporting a short spiky ’do that stands up in front. He’s a talker and an enthusiast. The list of things he loves includes the following: New Albany, the restaurant biz, interior design, repurposing architectural materials, and striking up partnerships with local purveyors. For the past year and a half, he’s brought all those passions together in the building he lovingly restored at 118 West Main.

T

RESTAURANT GEEK When Hall says he’s passionate about the restaurant business, he’s not just talking about food and beverage. Ask him about the building, and you might find yourself getting a high-energy tour in which Hall points out everything from the salvaged original transoms (now serving as entryway décor) to the tabletops made from repurposed original floor joists.

“I’m kind of a restaurant geek,” he admits. He cites the various design ideas he admires in local restaurants, such as the flow of the Silver Dollar and the indoor/outdoor patio space at Drake’s in St. Matthews. The idea for the floor plan came from BJ’s Restaurant and Brewhouse. Rye inspired the open kitchen. “We’re trying to build the perfect restaurant from an aesthetic standpoint and from a food standpoint,” he says. “It’s got to look great, but it’s got to work.”

He’s excited about the open kitchen and the high ceilings in the main dining room; to address the noise factor, he built in highbacked booths that enclose diners in their own private space. He’s pumped about the space at the front of the restaurant, where garage doors open onto the wide sidewalk, providing outdoor seating in nice weather. He’s happy about the staircase leading to a private dining room upstairs, featuring a pretty, carved-wood antique back bar with a French flair. With its distinct spaces, the restaurant gives people options for a whole evening — a cocktail at the bar, dinner in the dining room, and then a trip upstairs for a 20 Summer 2014 www.foodanddine.com

late-night cocktail afterwards. “People say, ‘I didn’t expect this in New Albany,’ ” he says. “It’s got more of a Chicago feel to it.”

As for the food, “We had a niche we wanted to fill — a rotating, progressive, seasonal menu that no one else was doing,” he says.

Chef Temple offers casual but top-quality food with a focus on cooking from scratch using locally sourced products. “We don’t get stale here,” Hall says. The winter menu, for instance, featured a Korean barbecue small plate, an orange pomegranate salad, and bucatini carbonara. Beyond the creative seasonal offerings, certain items stay on the menu, including the Exchange burger ($14), made with 3D Valley Farms Angus, gorgonzola, caramelized onions, portabella mushrooms, and arugula on a Klaus’s pretzel roll; fish and chips ($14), featuring beer-battered basa, fries, tartar sauce, and slaw; and steak frites ($16) accented with compound butter. Behind the bar, the focus is on Bourbon, craft beer, and boutique wines. (opposite, clockwise from top left) Korean BBQ confit baby back ribs with kimchi and apricot basil vinegar; grapefruit caprese salad with Mozzarella, ruby grapefruit, blood orange, basil, pistachios, olive oil and 15-year aged balsamic; smoked cheddar and brown ale beer cheese with a Klaus pretzel baguette; housemade Belgian waffle with Comfy Cow Sunny-Side ice cream and a coffee Bourbon sauce; Spring onion soup with Yukon gold potatoes and brioche croutons; tortilla-encrusted salmon with jalapeño cream and wilted spinach.

GROWING UP IN THE BIZ Hall got to know the restaurant business early.

As a six- or seven-year-old, he rolled silverware to help out his dad, Michael, then general manager of the restaurants at the Hyatt Regency. (Or maybe Dad was just keeping him occupied?) As a restaurant kid, he happily devoured escargot, oblivious to what he was eating. “My dad got me involved in this business without ever meaning to,” he says. “He told me ‘Don’t ever go into the food business.’ ” Hall ignored his father’s advice. He started at 18 as a busboy and dishwasher (“the toughest position in the restaurant”) at Buckhead’s in Louisville, then served, bartended, and eventually helped open the Jeffersonville store. His next stint was as beverage manager at Rocky’s, then as a bar tender (or “showtender”) at Legends.

He married in 2000. Until the kids came along (Payton, now 10, and Madison, 6), the bartender’s hours suited him fine. Once they arrived, the crazy schedule had to change. On top of that, he began to itch to spread his wings. He made that fateful and perhaps just-a-wee-bit-naïve vow: restaurant owner by 30.

His bank, Chase, wouldn’t loan to him. No problem: he turned to a local option. Your Community Bank wrote him a loan, and he and wife, Nikki, took out a second mortgage. And in 2007 he opened MYbar, a sports bar/lounge aimed at 20-somethings.

It was tough going. Twenty-somethings, it turned out, weren’t big spenders, and it hurt sales that MYbar didn’t serve food. They fell behind financially.

Ian took a gig bartending at Proof to help make ends (from top) Indoor/outdoor “Garage” dining area; Arborio rice risotto with seasonal vegetables; French-cut pork chop with corn bread and chorizo panzanella.

Executive Chef Robert Temple

meet. To be blunt, the bar was tanking. And Ian and Nikki had their house tied up in it. They looked at their options and didn’t like any of them. It was time for a Hail Mary.

Hall shuttered MYbar, spent six weeks reinventing the business model and remodeling the space, and reopened as the New Albany Exchange Pub + Kitchen gastropub in January 2010.

Things took a while to gel. The location was tough — off Grant Line Road, in a strip mall so confusing that even GPSs got the directions wrong. Ian and Nikki had sunk a lot of personal money they would never recoup into revamping a leased space. The restaurant went through more than one chef.

Hall started looking for an exit strategy. “Our plan was to get it back on its feet, get it cleaned up, and then get the hell out,” he says.

But slowly, things began coming together. Hall began thinking maybe he’d stick with it after all. Then, in November 2011, Marty Rosen gave the Exchange a good review and three stars in The Courier-Journal. “That was the day the lights went on,” Hall says.

“People were calling because they couldn’t find it. At 4:30 [a halfhour before opening], the parking lot was filled up. We got our ass handed to us that first weekend.” But it proved that they were onto something. Even if some diners weren’t quite sure what a ‘gastropub’ was, they tried it, liked it, and kept coming back. More good press followed.

Back on his game, Hall knew what he wanted to do. He located the property on West Main, an 1875 Italianate building that once housed Schrader Stables, and bought it. (Loans were still not exactly forthcoming, so Hall financed it through the developer, Steve Resch of Resch Construction.) “Most people would have looked at it and seen a disaster,” he says. “I looked at it and saw tables and chairs.” He opened the location in December 2012, a week after closing the Grant Line Road location.

It was a scary move, he admits. The restaurant went from 80 seats in the strip mall to 200 seats downtown (125 in the main dining room, the rest in the bar and private dining space). “We didn’t know what we were getting ourselves into,” he admits. “We didn’t know how it would catch on.” But it did, and they’re filling the dining room regularly, serving 1,500 to 2,000 people a week, Hall estimates, doing lunch and dinner six days a week.

Exchange’s upstairs “Stables” dining room and bar.

WHAT’S NEXT At the Exchange, Hall plans to add brunch on Saturday and Sunday, to coordinate with the opening of New Albany Farmers’ Market. On top of that, there’s a Comfy Cow franchise. Hall has had a working relationship with Comfy Cow owners Tim and Roy Koons-McGee for the past three years, talking about developing a proprietary flavor for the Exchange, but never quite getting it done. No matter; the Exchange offered Comfy Cow ice cream and Hall noticed that customers loved it. Meanwhile, a customer approached Hall, looking for a tenant for a building he owned. Hall looked at the building and thought it fit the Comfy Cow vibe, pressed tin ceiling and all. Meetings were taken, in which Hall thought he was simply the middleman connecting the landlord and Comfy Cow. Instead, somehow, he ended up a franchisee, partnering with the landlord.

“Phase Two was always going to be another restaurant,” he says. “I never thought I would own an ice cream [franchise], but I loved the aesthetic when I walked in.” And meanwhile, the Exchange finally got its signature ice cream flavor : egg, bacon, maple and brown sugar.

The Comfy Cow location, set to open the week after Derby, will also house the office of Ian and Nikki’s restaurant design and consulting company, BRAND Hospitality Group (BRAND stands for Bar, Restaurant, and Nightlight Development). They started the company to build out the Exchange, moved on to their own Comfy Cow franchise as their next client, and hope to build momentum once they have an office opened.

At 109 East Market, the Comfy Cow venue is easy walking distance from the Exchange. And speaking of things Hall loves about New Albany, that’s one of them. He hails the town’s newly burgeoning restaurant row for keeping things compact. A handful of impressive options lie within a two-square-block area, from the Exchange to Louis le Français to Habana Blues and more. “I love it when people come down without a specific restaurant destination,” Hall says. “They figure they’ll walk and pick it out.” In Hall’s opinion, its density makes the New Albany dining scene not just as good as Louisville’s rangier restaurant rows on Bardstown Road, Frankfort Avenue, and East Market — but better.

Did we mention that Hall is an enthusiast? He loves his hometown, and he’s happy to be par t of its coming-out par ty. “It’s not about money,” he says. “It’s about taking downtown and revitalizing it. I grew up here and I wanted to be a part of it — on the front end of getting people to come down here.”

That he’s doing, with the Exchange and Comfy Cow all in one snug square block. Hall envisions growing both businesses in their current locations and opening more Comfy Cows. For the moment at least, there’s not another restaurant in his plans.

But then, he’s got a big birthday coming up in a couple of years.

“Guess I need a new goal for 40,” he says. F&D www.foodanddine.com Summer 2014 23

liquids cork 101

BY SCOTT HARPER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY EDIS CELIK

S

ix ummer $ ippers 20 UNDER

Vinho Verde Aveleda 2012 (Portugal)

Rosé Rotari Sparkling Trento (Italy)

It would be unimaginable to omit Vinho Verde from a list of summer wines, so we will begin there. This wine is very pale, straw-colored, with the flavors of ripe lemon, lime and apple. It is light, dry and crisp with a refreshing effervescence — all this with about 25% less alcohol than a bottle of California Chardonnay. The wine is made from a blend of Arinto, Loureiro, and Trajadura — the indigenous grapes of northern Portugal. It would be perfect as an aperitif, or with grilled seafood salads.

A startlingly good sparkling wine for the price! Made in the champagne method in the northern Italian region of Trento. With a soft pink color, the appealing baked bread and subtle spice flavor indicates that it spends at least two years aging on its lees.

Flavors of wild strawberries and ripe raspberries round out the flavors of this dry, medium-bodied bubbly. Rotari uses a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. Try it with grilled fish, or as an aperitif.

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Rosé Francis Coppola Sofia Monterey County 2013 (California) If you haven’t already heard, the famous film director owns a couple of wineries. His flagship red wine, now renamed Inglenook Rubicon, is a classic Napa Valley Cabernetbased wine, while his rosé is tasty and fun!

Dark pink in color with a hint of sweetness that evokes ripe strawberries, kirshwasser and rhubarb, it is medium-bodied and just off-dry. Made from a blend of Syrah, Pinot Noir and Grenache grapes. Pair it with slightly spicy food, like barbecued chicken.

As we anticipate the arrival of the seasonal heat, we begin thinking about the delicious beverages we enjoy consuming during the summer. Like the foods we love this time of the year, we lighten things up a bit. Wines that are big, oaky, rich and savory will need to wait until the fall — or at least until we crave them again — because now is the time for fresh, vibrant, young wines, with plenty of vivacious fruit, crisp clean acidity, moderate alcohol and affordability. That means wines we can quaff but that have enough character to stand up to tasty fresh fish, garden vegetables or even barbecue. Keep in mind, summer wines should only be one or two years of age — freshness is their most important attribute. Below you will find one white wine, four rosés, and a sparkling rosé — all excellent for summer sipping, and all great values, between $10 and $20.

Rosé Château de Campuget Costières-de-Nîmes 2013 (France) This bright pink wine hails from the Southern Rhone Valley’s sub-region of Costières-de-Nîmes, which also makes delicious white and red wines. It is blended from 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache grapes.

The flavors of red fruits, currants, water melon and just a touch of white pepper compliment its light body, fresh clean acidity and dry finish. Perfect for sipping while relaxing on the deck, it would also go nicely with charcuterie.

Rosé Bila-Haut Pays d’Oc Roussillon 2013 (France)

Côtes De Provence Sables d’Azur Gassier 2013 (France)

Take a very serious producer of high-quality wine from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, plop them down in the southern French region of Roussillon, and let them make a tasty, inexpensive rosé. That is exactly what the Chapoutier family has done here. Light pink and slightly less crisp than some rosés, with flavors of fresh citrus, strawberry, cherry, light minerals and a touch of white flowers.

Made from a blend of Grenache and Cinsault, two of the classic grape varieties of the Rhone Valley and environs. It goes well with rotisserie chicken or Cornish hen.

From the rosé mecca of France — Provence — comes this annual favorite known for great value and its ability to go well with summer fare! A pale, rose-copper colored wine, it is a light, dr y and crisp “quaffer” of a rosé. Fresh and lively with persistent fruity red flavors of strawberry, cherry and cranberry. Made from a blend of Cinsault, Grenache, Carignan and Syrah grapes. Try it with Caprese salad or grilled vegetables with spicy sausages.

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2014 25

about food cooking with ron

BY RON MIKULAK | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Bountiful Berries

To show you how old I am, I remember when fresh berries were markers of the seasons. Strawberries appeared only at the height of spring, in late May or early June, and heralded the coming of summer. Blueberries and blackberries were high summer fruit, and when they were gone, we knew fall was fast approaching.

Today, of course, fresh berries are available at the supermarket year-round, grown, when winter is upon us, in warmer climes. (Mexico is a prime producer of blackberries; California has industrialized the production of strawberries.) To transport strawberries from California to, say, Louisville, varieties that can stand up to bulk packing and trucking long distances trade off flavor for size and resistance to human touch. Chalky-white cores in golf ball-sized strawberries rather than juicy, red-throughout, thumb-sized fruit, and a tooth-resistance that approaches a crunch instead of a chin-dribbling juiciness, indicate berries that have traveled farther than you have in the last two weeks.

Berries are so seductive in looks and in taste that we put up with less than optimal commercial fruits. Therefore, when local berries are in season, we should jump to buy them and be happy to pay local growers premium prices for really fresh fruit that harks back to the time, not all that long ago, when food was seasonal, and all the more precious for that.

To botanists suffering from an obsession with precision nomenclature, the term “berry” is both limiting and remarkably inclusive. To such, a berry is a “many-seeded pulp fruit, the seeds of which are, when 26 Summer 2014 www.foodanddine.com

mature, scattered throughout the pulp.”

While such a definition does include cranberries, gooseberries and grapes, it does not include blackberries or raspberries, which are a sub-category of “drupes,” or strawberries, which are even termed a “false fruit,” because the seeds appear on the fruit’s exterior.

To make matters worse, of course, the first definition of berry, when applied most precisely, includes bananas, cucumbers and papayas, as well as citrus. And, as a reader or two of my newspaper food stories delighted in reminding me whenever I used

to refer to tomatoes as vegetables, they are, technically, berries as well.

But our concerns here today are with “any small globular or ovate juicy fruit not having a stone,” which the Oxford English Dictionary usefully reminds us is the commonly accepted notion of what a berry is to those of us who await their arrival in local markets. I hope this year’s strawberry and blueberry crops are as robust as they were last year. When local fruit starts appearing at farmers markets, here are some things I like to do with them.

SPRING SALAD WITH BERRIES Strawberries give this salad color and tang before the tomato season kicks in. ½ pound mixed spring greens, baby lettuces or mesclun 2 cups strawberries, in season Toasted pecans (recipe below) 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese Toasted sesame-poppy dressing (recipe below) Arrange mixed greens on four individual plates. Place berries on top of greens.

Sprinkle each serving with 2-3 tablespoons toasted pecans, and dress with sesamepoppy dressing. Serves 4.

TOASTED PECANS ½ pound pecans ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil ¼ cup sugar Chop pecans coarsely, drizzle with olive oil, then sprinkle with sugar. Bake at 325 degrees for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Let cool and store covered in refrigerator.

TOASTED SESAME-POPPY DRESSING You can buy toasted sesame seeds, but if you can’t find them, spread sesame seeds in a thin layer in a small baking pan and toast at 350 degrees for about 20 minutes, or until golden, stirring occasionally. ¾ 1 1 3 ¼ 2

cup sugar teaspoon dry mustard teaspoon salt tablespoons chopped onion cup cider vinegar tablespoons balsamic vinegar

½ 1 2 ¼

teaspoon Worcestershire sauce cup Mazola oil tablespoon poppy seeds cup toasted sesame seeds

In a bowl, mix together the sugar, mustard, salt and chopped onion. Add the vinegar and Worcestershire sauce, and whisk together thoroughly. Whisk in the oil, and when well blended, mix in poppy and sesame seeds. Makes about 1½ cups of dressing.

MELT-IN-YOUR-MOUTH BLUEBERRY CAKE This is perhaps my favorite cake. I make it every year as soon as the blueberries come in. I found the recipe in Raymond Sokolov’s “Fading Feast” (David R. Godine, 1998).

2 eggs, separated 1 cup sugar, divided, plus 2 to 3 extra tablespoons to sprinkle on top ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature Pinch of salt 1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus ¼ cup 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 /3 cup milk 1½ to 2 cups blueberries, washed and picked over Heat oven to 350 degrees. Beat egg whites until foamy, then beat in 1/4-cup sugar.

Continue beating until whites are stiff and glossy. Set aside. Beat butter until light. Beat in remaining sugar and a pinch of salt. Beat in egg yolks one at a time. Blend well. Sift flour into a large bowl. Measure out 1½ cups sifted flour, and resift that with baking powder. Stir about half of flour mixture into butter. Add about half the milk. Blend that well, before repeating with remaining flour and milk.

When batter is well mixed, fold in beaten egg whites, trying not to deflate whites too much. Toss blueberries with 1/4-cup flour, to help them not drop to the bottom of the batter. Fold berries into batter. Scrape batter into a well-greased 8-by-8-inch cake pan.

Sprinkle top with 2 to 3 tablespoons sugar.

Bake in middle of oven for about 45 to 55 minutes, until top is golden, cake pulls away slightly from the sides of the pan, and a toothpick tests clean when inserted in the middle. This is a fine snack cake to eat with your fingers or to serve more formally, if you wish. Serves 8. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2014 27

BLACKBERRY COBBLER I first encountered this recipe idea as an apple cobbler in “The Frugal Gourmet Cooks American,” a publication drawn from a long-gone PBS food show. A friend of mine makes a variation of this and calls it “Creeping Cobbler,” because of the way the crust rises from the bottom to cover the fruit. I make this every summer when blackberries hit their prime. This looks odd going together, with the batter falling through the melted butter, but by all means, do not stir the butter and batter together. Remember: “The batter on the butter and the fruit on the batter.” ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter 3 cups whole blackberries, hulled, picked over, rinsed well and shaken dry ¼ cup firmly packed brown sugar 1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon cinnamon ¾ cup milk (low-fat or nonfat are fine) Heat oven to 350 degrees. Melt butter and pour into the bottom of 2-quart baking or 28 Summer 2014 www.foodanddine.com

soufflé dish. (I have used both deep and shallow dishes, and either works fine.) In a bowl, toss berries with brown sugar. Let sit while you make the batter. In a medium bowl, stir together granulated sugar, flour, baking powder, cinnamon and milk into a thick batter. Pour batter atop melted butter.

Do not stir. Spoon fruit mixture over batter.

Bake cobbler 40 to 50 minutes until top is golden brown and sides pull away slightly from edge of pan. Batter will migrate from the bottom of the pan to cover the fruit, and as it cools, the puffy top will fall. Its texture should resemble a very dense fruit pudding. Serve warm or at room temperature. Serves 6 to 8.

STRAWBERRY FOOL Perhaps the best way to eat strawberries and cream. (Or try it with raspberries!)

1 cup whipping cream Powdered sugar, to taste ½ teaspoon vanilla 1 quart strawberries, washed, hulled and diced fine (or 1 quart raspberries, rinsed and shaken dry)

Beat the cream until it thickens. Add the vanilla, and powdered sugar 1 tablespoon or so at a time. Whip to incorporate. Taste, and add more sugar if desired. Beat until stiff peaks form. Gently fold in the strawberries (or raspberries). Chill until ready to serve. Serves 6 to 8.

PORK TENDERLOIN WITH STRAWBERRY-BALSAMIC SAUCE This recipe is adapted from “The Berry Bible,” by Janie Hibler (HarperCollins, 2000). The-two step roasting process is a technique Cook’s Illustrated perfected, which I find works very well.

2 1 1 1 ½ 3 1 /3 1 ¼ 1

pounds pork loin tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped tablespoon fresh garlic, chopped teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon fresh black pepper tablespoons olive oil, divided cup balsamic vinegar pint strawberries, sliced pound fresh spring greens avocado, peeled, pitted and sliced

Heat oven to 425 degrees. To help the pork

bake evenly, tie loin every inch or so with twine to shape it into a tight cylinder. Mix rosemary, garlic, salt and pepper. Pat pork dry with paper towels, and rub the herb mixture into meat. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in an oven-proof skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add the pork, place skillet in oven and roast for 30 minutes. Remove pork from oven and let rest at room temperature exactly 30 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 325 degrees.

After pork has rested, return to oven and roast another 30 minutes, or until internal temperature registers 155 degrees. Remove

meat from pan and keep warm. Center of meat will be slightly pink; it will continue to cook while sauce is prepared.

Place skillet over medium-high heat. Add balsamic vinegar. With a wooden spoon, scrape browned bits from bottom of pan.

Reduce vinegar by half, then add strawberries and remaining olive oil. Stir gently until heated through. Remove from heat and set aside. To serve, slice pork into 1/2inch-thick slices. Arrange greens on individual plates. Place pork and avocado slices on top of the greens. Drizzle with the warm strawberry sauce. Serves 4 to 6. F&D

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2014 29

people and places profiles

BRASSERIE PROVENCE 150 N. Hurstbourne Parkway 502.883.3153

BY CARLA CARLTON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Brasserie Provence Traditional southern French brasserie cuisine lands in Louisville

W

hen he was just a 16-year-old serving tourists on the beach in his home city of Cannes, Guy Genoud knew that one day he would open his own restaurant. He could envision every detail: It would be a warm and welcoming place where the service was professional but not stuffy, with a large menu of good food at affordable prices. Of course, he never imagined that it would be located in a strip shopping center in Louisville, Kentucky. But as the French say, “C’est la vie.”

Loup de mer au gros sel et pistou (sea bass served atop coarse salt and topped with pistou sauce), served with sides of Panisse and ratatouille.

Genoud’s journey from the Provence region of France to Brasserie Provence, which he and his wife, photographer Stacy Duncan, opened in October 2013 in the old Tony Roma’s building on North Hurstbourne Lane, may not have been a straight line, but there has been one constant: food. He has spent nearly 30 years in the hotel management business, most recently as food and beverage director of BLU Mediterranean Grille at the downtown Marriott; before that, he was general manager of the Brown Hotel’s English Grill for five years. www.foodanddine.com Summer 2014 31

Owners Guy Genoud and wife, Stacy Duncan, a photographer, collaborated on the décor. Her pictures are featured throughout the restaurant. (above) Côtelettes d’Agneau (lamb T-bone chops, rosemary jus, gratin potatoes Dauphinois and haricots verts); and (right) tarte de tomates et chévre au basilic (warm tomato and goat cheese tart with basil). (opposite, top) The restaurant’s spacious community table seats 10 to 12. (opposite, bottom) Crevettes persillade (shrimp with garlic and parsley Camargue rice, Provençal tomato).

32 Summer 2014 www.foodanddine.com

“For me, food is fun,” he said. “I love it. I love good food and good wines, and I enjoy sharing that with people.”

He wanted to open a restaurant in France, he said, but that never happened. “I left and traveled a lot. I came to the States. Always, that was in the back of my mind.” Throughout their 23-year marriage, said Duncan (a California native who met him in Washington, D.C., at a party that neither of them wanted to go to), “we’d be driving in obscure places and there would be this really cool old run-down castle or an old church out in the middle of nowhere and (he’d say) ‘What a great place for a restaurant.’ It really was always out in the middle of nowhere.”

Last year, as he approached the age of 50 and started thinking about how he would end his career, Genoud decided it was time to do what he had always wanted to do, with Duncan as his partner. The location they selected seemed to some no less remote than a run-down castle.

“Originally, we thought about a downtown space,” Duncan said. Then Houston Jones, president of restaurant design and development firm The Houston Group, suggested the property in the Forum shopping center. “In the end it’s turned out to be a godsend, really,” she said. “It’s a huge space, we have tremendous parking, and there is a real need for it out here in the East End.” The building was no castle, but after sitting vacant for some time, it was run down — a vast, dark cave of a place. “It was a pit,” Duncan said flatly. It was her task to open up the space and bring in the painterly light and colors of Provence — greens, blues, purples.

Now, diners enter the bright space to find a section of tables to the right of the handsome bar, and leather banquettes to the left. A chef ’s table near the front of the restaurant seats 10 to 12. Further back, several tables cluster near a new brick fireplace in an area that Duncan says reminds her of cozy chalets in the Alps. Photographs she has taken on the couple’s travels in France hang on the walls. There are white tablecloths, but they are topped with butcher paper.

“This is not fine dining,” Genoud said. “I want people to be more relaxed. Some places you go, it’s like, ‘My goodness, I’d better be dressed up to go in there.’ Here, that was not the concept. I want people to feel warm here, for this to be their local restaurant. And I wanted it to be affordable — most of the entrees are under $25.”

They range from mussels in white wine ($16) to Chateaubriand ($42 for one, $75 for two). In between are other seafood dishes (the grouper fillet and scallops, $30, and prosciuttowrapped cod with ratatouille, $19, are among the most popular) and meats including a honey

lavender-glazed pork chop ($22), lamb chops with rosemary jus ($26), and duck breast with olives and thyme ($28). Altogether, the dinner menu has close to 50 items — more if you include the dessert options. “I figured it out: It would take six months to come here once a week and go through the menu,” Genoud said.

The Plat du Jour ($19) is another draw for regulars who know they will find the cassoulet on Thursday and the bouillabaisse on Friday, for instance. On Saturday night, items not featured on the regular menu — rabbit, blood sausage — are introduced via the Chef ’s Creation. On a recent Saturday the creation was veal scallopini, and it had sold out by 8:00 p.m.

Heading the kitchen is Chef Edoardo Bacci, who was sous chef at the English Grill during Genoud’s tenure and had recently moved to the University of Louisville’s University Club. “I never had really opened a place, so it was going to be a new learning experience for me,” Bacci said of Brasserie Provence. “And I had faith in Guy. I had known him for a while, and I know he knows how things need to go. I didn’t have too many issues saying yes.”

A native of Trieste, Italy, Bacci moved to Louisville with his parents in 1988 and attended Sullivan University’s culinary arts program. “My background isn’t French by any means, but the ingredients, well, we’re neighbors, and it was really kind of easy to come up with recipes,” he said. “What is really ‘French’ or ‘Italian’ food?

Everything evolves, so you can definitely put your own twist to it.”

He embraced Genoud’s philosophy of avoiding complex, “foo-foo” French cuisine and keeping things casual. The menu skews Mediterranean, with lots of seafood and vegetables. “The food we do here is nothing spectacular. It’s just good ingredients, presented nicely on the plate, and simple. You don’t have to add extra sauce to make it crazy. You know, three sauces for one salmon — you’re not going to taste the salmon. At the end, if you have good ingredients, that is what I want to taste.”

Traditionally, brasserie means “brewery,” so draft beer was a must, Genoud said. In addition to French and Belgian ales, he stocks all Kentucky-made brands. His 35 wines by-the-glass are all from southern France; the bottle selection also includes a few from California. “If Kentucky had some great wines, I would be doing Kentucky wines, but unfor tunately… no. Not yet.” He maintains the local flair by stocking 30 to 40 brands of real Kentucky juice: Bourbon.

But for Genoud, the fun of having a restaurant is much more than building a menu or a beverage program. It’s building relationships with customers, whether they are the two businessmen, obviously regulars, lingering over lunch, or the couple who’ve never dined at the place before on a busy Saturday night. Genoud greets them all like old friends as he makes his rounds of the tables. “I don’t know anybody’s last name.

I tell my servers, ‘You go by your first name and call them by their first name.’ I want them to be comfortable and familiar.”

“I love it when large groups of people come in,” added Duncan. “It just feels like community.”

She often helps out on Friday and Saturday nights, and is sometimes joined by the couple’s children, a 17-year-old daughter and 22-year-old son.

“We are a family business,” Genoud affirms.

“People are often surprised by that. They say, ‘Is this a chain?’ No, it’s a restaurant with only two owners. I have only one boss — that’s her,” he says, gesturing at Duncan, and then adding with a smile, “It’s always been like that anyway.” F&D (opposite, counterclockwise) Moules marinières (mussels steamed in white wine, garlic, herbs and cream), tarte aux pommes fines et pignons flambé à l’Armagnac (apple and pine nut tart flamed with Armagnac brandy) and Merguez (spicy lamb sausage sandwich). The restaurant draws heavily on French classics such as the Lyonnaise, at top, (frisée, bacon, croutons, poached egg and Dijon vinaigrette) and petitgris persillade, at bottom, (baked escargots with Pernod, butter and parsley). Italian immigrant and Executive Chef Edoardo Bacci’s mastery of Mediterranean food is reflected in the menu.

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Local

WHY SHOP LOCAL? What was once the only thing — patronizing locally-owned businesses — is now the “in” thing. Focusing your consumer dollars on local, one-of-a-kind businesses supports the unique character of the Louisville community.

That’s the philosophy.

The practicality is this: Studies show that three times as much money spent at local businesses stays circulating in the local economy as money spent at national chains. That’s because local businesses support each other.

Local businesses hire and promote your friends and neighbors. And local businesses support community arts and charitable causes at twice the level as do chains.

So — buying local is good for the economy, good for jobs, good for community karma.

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P

3

ick BBQ

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

Barbecue — the technique of slowr o a s t i n g m e a t ove r l o w, s m o k y indirect heat — dates to the earliest European forays into the New World.

Th i s m e t h o d o f co o k i n g s p re a d throughout the colonies, and became a hallmark of Southern cuisine.

Kentucky learned its magic early and today nurtures a myriad of regional styles within its borders. Our Pick 3 focuses on three local BBQ purveyors, all rookie restaurateurs whose quirky p e r s o n a l i t i e s h ave c re a te d t h re e unusual eateries that have established a loyal following among the legions of local barbecue fans. (counterclockwise from below) FABD chicken wings; “Beerhalla” putt-putt; pork ribs; house sauce and rub; burgoo; owners Dave (left) and Rob Alvey; pulledpork sandwich; brisket; Ethan Egger tends the smoker.

Frankfort Avenue Beer Depot

The Fr ankfor t Avenue Beer Depot & Smokehouse came by its reputation as a comfortable, down-scale watering hole honestly.

At its heart one can still make out the cinderblock garage converted into a bar 50 years 3204 ago. Inside, eight tables and high tops with upholstered stools polished by use make for a Frankfort Avenue cozy setting near the short blonde wood bar.

(502) The walls covered with dated beer and sports 8 9 5.3223 signage, punctuated by large screen TV’s, let one know this is not some corporate knockoff trying to mimic charm.

From this simple heart, and the compact kitchen adjoining it, the FABD has grown impressively over the past decade, accreting rings of inside dining space, a spacious seasonally-enclosed deck, and another ring of picnic tables tumbling into the parking lot next to the reason for its success — rotund black steel smoking pits wafting aromatic barbecue smoke throughout the neighborhood.

Those stout, round smokers render delicious ribs and brisket, pulled pork, plump chickens smoked to a deep cordovan hue, and flaky salmon. All are served in generous portions and are fall-off-the-bone ready to enjoy.

Barbecue, beyond the basic principle of “low and slow,” permits many variations, which can express the personalities of different chefs. The FABD benefits from brothers Rob and Dave Alvey balancing over the years their respective preferences for spicy and sweet.

“I like to say we’re making Louisville-style barbecue,” said Rob Alvey, the brother who led acquisition of the bar 15 years ago, handles administration and finance today, and who, when the smokehouse menu started eight years later, insisted on adding “a little kick.” “We started with friends’ recipes and kept working on them until we hit on what we liked. It was completely trial and error.”

The brothers’ collaboration has developed a more balanced style, from what some initially found too hot or salty, into what can be called a nice blend of dry rubs and basting with vinegar and apple cider, a style common in the Carolinas. If you want to move the needle more to your personal tastes, bottles of “sweet and tangy” or “XXX-hot” sauce are ready to help.

But the Alveys also add some personality to traditional sides they’ve experimented with over time.

“We add a little twist with garlic, onion, and pepper to the sides, or the mustard in the potato salad, but we collaborated on the cooking program

and tapered the spice and heat down a bit,” Dave Alvey said. “We wanted our sides to have the right heat and flavor to be kid-friendly.”

They have succeeded in extending the casual watering hole vibe into a family-friendly neighborhood hangout and restaurant. It’s still all casual, evidenced by the metal buckets on the tables holding plastic dinner ware, napkins and sauces, but it’s grown in a way that you can enjoy it inside or further out on the deck or at a picnic table, breathing the aroma as the smokers do their work.

“It’s really an art watching the fire and adjusting for the weather,” said Dave Alvey of the work he and his pit chefs Jeremy and Ethan do, starting well before sunrise.

“They’re truly like the mailman — ‘Neither snow, sleet nor rain will keep them’ — and it’s an important skill.

You’ve got to know what takes seven hours on a normal day will take 10 when it’s raining, or the time you will lose by just opening the door.”

Befitting its name, the FABD keeps pace with an impressive beer selection. Choices rotate, but there are usually up to 10 craft beers on draught, nearly two dozen offered in bottles as well as a complete selection of mainstay domestic brands. You can just slake your thirst or find a good pairing for whatever food dish will address your hunger.

This place has a good neighborhood vibe. There are remembrances of when Bob Dylan stopped in, and stories about ex-mayor and current State Lt. Gov., Jerry Abramson, who stops by for his favorite, the brisket.

“St. Paddy’s Day is the usual start of our summer season and it becomes a whole different beast when you can go outside. We’ve got the trains going by (along Frankfort Ave.), picnic tables out back, ping pong, corn-hole, and a putt-putt course for the kids to play if their parents just want to sit and talk. Summertime on a Friday night — it’s a real neighborhood hangout.”

Dave Alvey then succinctly sums up the challenge and reward of the barbecue business.

“I love barbecue, all kinds of barbecue,” said Alvey smiling. “Like ice cream, everybody has a favorite flavor.

I’m just glad people like my flavor.”

Louisville’s inner city can be bemusing. Many anxious suburbanites who funnel off Goss Avenue onto Logan Street heading towards Broadway must wonder at the brick building on the corner of Oak and Logan, the one with a large mural of a Jamaican reggae jam on its side. It’s an image that strikes one as peculiar, in a part of town many, to their loss, feel uncomfortable passing through, much less stopping in.

Those folks who barrel on through will miss Smoketown USA, a special restaurant with a gumbo soul, combining great barbecue, true vegetarian options, and the life-loving, eclectic spirit of its proprietors, Lynn and Eric David Gould, a self-professed “Jewish Redneck.”

Eric Gould, who loves mingling with customers, calls out various Yiddish greetings like “Shalom” or “find a place for your tokhes (rear end) and we’ll be right with you,” to the entering patrons.

His eyes sparkle, framed by a baseball cap and white muttonchop sideburns, a man who has confronted death and revels in its alternative.

“You’ve got to make eye contact and express a little love to make someone smile,” Gould said.

“People think I’m the craziest guy, but that’s the difference between us and large corporations.

We give our best and some love to the people who come in.”

Gould’s current joie de vivre might have been born when he suffered a brain hemorrhage while deer hunting 20 years ago, and endured the subsequent years of therapy to get back. But his work in the community began when he and Lynn acquired at auction the two Civil War-era buildings that now house Smoketown USA. “They were built in 1862 and originally housed a grocery, a feed and seed store, and a livery,”

Smoketown USA 1153 Logan St. 5 0 2 . 4 0 9 . 9 1 8 0

Gould said. “We went through nearly four years of renovation and a lot of ideas before settling on opening a restaurant in 2007 that combined my interest in food and Lynn’s hobby of yard sales.”

Smoketown USA sits on the west edge of Germantown and within a block of two other historic Louisville communities: Shelby Park and Smoketown.

In its heyday, the area was a bustling commercial and residential district that grew off businesses that lined the river and fed expansion southward. Today the neighborhood is an overlooked but still vital combination of low-income housing, gentrification, and both social and commercial revival. It is not a ghetto, but a quiet backside to all that makes up the tapestry of greater Louisville.

Gould, a Louisville native, originally learned “wet style barbecue” from one of his “schwartze” Hikes Point neighbors. When getting ready to go public, he expanded his repertoire into Tex-Mex style barbecue from another pal he befriended at Lowe’s. Seven years later it’s safe to say he combines all his learning into a barbecue product that is rated best of Louisville on some popular Internet sites.

“You have to have balls of gold to be in the restaurant business,” Gould said candidly. “But you have to give it 110% to succeed. You can’t offer a cheap product. People have to know you care when they walk in the door.”

Smoketown USA presents a wonderful array of simply prepared but delicious options that run the gamut from pulled pork, brisket and chicken, smoked salmon, St. Louis-style ribs, and Flintstones — beef ribs that weigh in at three-fourths of a pound each.

There’s also cod and catfish specialties on Fridays and vegetarian selections which include a black bean burger, Portobello sandwich, Tex Mex pinto beans, cabbage or potato salads, mac and cheese, Spanish rice, green beans, and soul greens (collards or turnip greens with pinto beans). These options go from $6.50 for a vegetarian plate, to $24 for an order of three or four Flintstones with two sides and your choice of sweet or jalapeno cornbread.

Gould’s method is to use simple dry rubs while browning and then a tight foil wrap to retain moisture while cooking to tender, off-the-bone, tasty readiness. Though it often isn’t necessary, a proprietary sweet and tangy sauce is available at the table. It features highlights of pineapple, molasses, onions, a good vinegar bite, and the motto on the label urges you to “Feed Your Soul.” Beverages include sweet and regular teas and fountain drinks, along with an excellent selection of bottled craft brews from local and regional breweries.

Thanks to Lynn Gould’s eclectic spirit, one gets to enjoy all of this in a constantly changing environment of dinette tables of every style, silver stars above the lazy ceiling fans, an eclectic jam of fabric art, paintings, posters, and BBQ competition trophies. One can even wander out to the patio to sit at tables or on benches or antique gliders, amid Lynn’s array of collectibles.

“Lynn is the wheel that really runs this place,” Gould said. “I’m just a little grease to keep it moving.”

Whether for food or for retro hunting, Smoketown USA offers an original place to enjoy your feast.

(opposite, top) Smoketown is part BBQ joint and part flea market. You can buy a slab of ribs, the salt and pepper shakers from your table, and a bowling ball — all in the same trip. (opposite, counter-clockwise from center) Cuban sandwich; owner Eric Gould, the self-proclaimed “redneck Jew;” pulled-pork sandwich; half chicken platter; Reuben sandwich. (above) Slab of pork ribs. (right) A Kentucky original — Burgoo. (below L-R) “Flintstones” beef ribs; Portobello mushroom sandwich.

Momma’s Mustard, Pickles & BBQ 102 Bauer Avenue 5 0 2 . 9 3 8 . 6 2 6 2 119 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 5 0 2 . 2 9 0 . 7 9 9 8

It’s cliché to say that necessity is the mother of invention, but when true, it can result in something truly satisfying.

That seems to be the case for one of the newest entries on Louisville’s diverse barbecue scene, Momma’s Mustard, Pickles & BBQ, which is doing an excellent job serving authentic Kansas City-style smoked meats with traditional sides.

“I grew up in Wichita, and after settling here about 13 years ago, I found it hard to find barbecue that I really liked,” said Chad Cooley, entrepreneurial partner in the St. Matthews restaurant that has sparked a loyal following since opening barely two years ago. “I guess I kept feeling that way, until an opportunity arose to do something about it.”

That oppor tunity came during a chat over lunch about Cooley’s hunger with Chef Jamie Givan, a Louisvillian working at Saint’s Pizza after a stint at Gerstle’s, where he had worked his way up to manager.

Givan explained, “Chad was a customer who had become a friend, and when he pitched his idea, I said, ‘Let’s do it!’”

Together, Cooley and Givan went to Kansas City to study with Chef Paul Kirk, a renowned member of the Kansas City Barbecue Society and seventime winner of World Barbecue Championships.

Their intense tutorial included examining and testing equipment, learning about meats, and unlocking the key to Kansas City-style — the dry rub.

“We went over our recipes and theories and, I think, lucked onto a blend for one of the best rubs out there,” Cooley said. “The tradition is to add a tangy, tomato-based sauce at the table, not while cooking. We bring our sauces (a mild and a hot) in from my mother’s hometown of Ponca City, Oklahoma. It’s expensive but we think it’s the best there is. Apparently people agree, because the Momma’s smoker filled with brisket, pork butt and wings. response has been phenomenal.”

Momma’s is located in an 80-year-old house on Bauer Avenue, on the south side of St. Matthews where Frankfort Avenue and Lexington Road almost meet. Once home to Kitty O’Kieran’s and Zazoo’s, Cooley and Givan refurbished the premises when they got hold of it. It is split into a comfortable, unpretentious family-friendly upstairs with a lot of windows and natural light, an outdoor patio with a wall created by local muralist Wilford Sieg, and a spor ts bar-themed downstairs with plenty of booths, TVs and tables on either side of the bar.

“Originally, we were just going to do a food truck, but that became a story of ‘the best laid plans of mice and Chad,’ ” Cooley said with a grin.

“While we were getting that together we started

using the kitchen at Zazoo’s and serving food in the bar and then out of the upstairs.”

“I was surprised at how quickly word got out about what we were doing,” said Givan. “The buzz got around town without any effort on our part.”

Cooley and Givan have applied the Kansas City technique to a large selection of meats. Available are pork or beef ribs, pulled pork and chicken, wings, smoked turkey and brisket, and an ambitious program of smoked sausage.

“We make ever ything in-house and from scratch as much as possible,” said Givan. “I’m experimenting with seven or eight different styles of sausage, all made and smoked in-house, that rotate on the menu. We follow Chad’s Mom’s family recipes for the pickles and mustard con di ments, and have adapted her recipes for slaws, green and baked beans, mac & cheese, (above) Chad Cooley and his “Momma,” and potato salad.”

Hilary Cooley. (right) A sizable rack of “About twenty percent of our business is carrybeef ribs. (clockwise from below) The out. We do a lot of large group lunches, and sports bar-themed lower level; with advance notice, we can even set up a buffet,” Momma’s green beans and potato salad sides; a basket of chicken wings; a rack Cooley said.

An unusual catering job came in last winter of pork ribs. (opposite, from top) Jars of the namesake mustard and pickles; when the Temple basketball team, in town to play a trio of sliders includes house-made the Louisville Cardinals, called in an order for sausage, brisket and pulled pork; 40 barbecue chicken dinner plates with three Momma’s “Winged” Bloody Mary; sides different sides, to be delivered to their bus at of mac & cheese and baked beans. the KFC Yum! Center. “That was so the team could have dinner during the ride out to the airport before they caught their plane home,” Cooley said. “That was kind of neat.”

Not long ago, Momma’s opened a second location on Hurstbourne Lane, with Chef Dub Heare monitoring the pit. “A lot of people from out there were already driving into St. Matthews to eat with us, so we knew we already had a following ready for us,” Cooley said. “We did a complete build-out in what used to be an old bank. It’s a different setting than St. Matthews but the response has been fantastic. I believe it all comes down to the food.”

Momma’s has a unique “two percent” program, through which it supports local non-profits by matching one percent added to checks to give two percent of proceeds to Dare to Care, Olmstead Parks Conservancy, Special Olympics, Sierra Club, Home of the Innocents and The Healing Place.

“We were able to donate $11,000 to these groups in 2013, and expect to share more than $40,000 this year.”

From the respect for Momma Cooley’s family recipes, to compostable carry-out containers, and their unique “two percent” program, Momma’s radiates a positive vibe. After one visit you feel you have experienced something special, something ambitious, something aimed towards meeting a necessity which is, simply, downright good. F&D

dining guide Cuisine Style African..............................70 Asian/Chinese...................70 Asian/Filipino ....................72 Asian/Japanese ................72 Asian/Korean ....................74 Asian/Mongolian ...............74 Asian/Thai ........................74 Asian/Vietnamese .............74 Bar & Grill .........................67 Barbecue ..........................66 Bistro/Contemporary.........52 Cafés................................54

Cafeterias .........................60 Cajun/Creole.....................77 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin .....77 Casual Dining ...................57 Coffee/Tea House..............79 Desserts/Bakery ...............80 Entertainment Dining ........60 European/French ..............75 European/German.............75 European/Irish ..................75 European/Italian................75 European/Spanish.............76

Fine Dining .......................48 Home Style/Southern ........59 Indian ...............................76 Mexican............................77 Microbreweries.................70 Middle Eastern..................76 Pizza.................................61 Sandwich/Deli ..................64 Seafood ............................55 Southwest/Tex Mex...........79 Steakhouse.......................56 Upscale Casual .................50

Area Maps begin on page 82 Alphabetical Index RESTAURANT

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2 Dips & A Shake 211 Clover Lane 321 Deli 60 West Bistro 610 Magnolia A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China A.J.’s Gyro Café Abyssinia Achille’s Pizza Addis Grill Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café Adrienne’s Italian Against The Grain Brewery Al Nuur Al Watan Aladdin’s Café Alley Cat Café Amici Amillio’s Burritos & More Anchorage Café Andalous Mediterranean Angilo’s Pizza Angio’s Restaurant Annie Cafe Annie May’s Sweets Café Annie’s Pizza Ann’s by the River Another Place Anselmo’s Italian Bistro Apocalypse Brew Works Applebee’s Arata Sushi Argo Sons Coffee Arni’s Pizza Arno’s Pizza Aroma Café Asahi Japanese Asian Buffet Asian Moon Asiatique Aspen Creek Restaurant Atlantic No. 5 Atrium Café Atypical Man BBQ August Moon Austin’s BD’s Mongolian Grill B3Q BBQ Baby D’s Bagels & Deli Backyard Burger The Bakery Banh Mi Hero Bank Street Brewhouse Bar Code 1758 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen The Bard’s Town Basa Modern Vietnamese Baxter’s 942 Bar & Grill 44 Summer 2014 www.foodanddine.com

RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED

BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS. MAP #

80 Desserts/Bakery 1 48 Fine Dining 3 64 Sandwich/Deli 1 50 Upscale Casual 3 48 Fine Dining 13 57 Casual Dining 14, 16 70 Asian/Chinese 1 76 Middle Eastern 14 70 African 1 61 Pizza 16 70 African 1 80 Desserts/Bakery 16 75 European/Italian 16 70 Microbreweries 1 70 African 13 76 Middle Eastern 4 76 Middle Eastern 14 54 Cafés 5 75 European/Italian 13 77 Mexican 13 54 Cafés 5 76 Middle Eastern 2 61 Pizza 13 61 Pizza 4 74 Asian/Vietnamese 13 80 Desserts/Bakery 3 61 Pizza 1, 12 60 Cafeterias 16 64 Sandwich/Deli 1 75 European/Italian 2 70 Microbreweries 2 57 Casual Dining [6] 72 Asian/Japanese 10 79 Coffee/Tea House 6 61 Pizza 14 61 Pizza 4 54 Cafés 14 72 Asian/Japanese 3 70 Asian/Chinese 4, 14 70 Asian/Chinese 4 50 Upscale Casual 2 57 Casual Dining 11 54 Cafés 1 52 Bistro/Contemporary 5 66 Barbecue 3 70 Asian/Chinese 2 50 Upscale Casual 7 74 Asian/Mongolian 6 66 Barbecue 14 64 Sandwich/Deli 2 64 Sandwich/Deli 6 80 Desserts/Bakery 4 74 Asian/Vietnamese 2 70 Microbreweries 14 72 Asian/Japanese 2 59 Home Style/Southern 2 60 Entertainment Dining 2 50 Upscale Casual 2 67 Bar & Grill 2

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Bazos Mexican Grill 77 Mexican 3, 6 Bean Street Coffee Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 14 Bearno’s Pizza 61 Pizza [12] Beef O’Brady’s 67 Bar & Grill 5, 12, 13, 14 Bela’s Café 70 African 13 Bendoya Sushi Bar 72 Asian/Japanese 1 Benito’s Burritos 79 Southwest/Tex Mex 5 Big Al’s Beeritaville 67 Bar & Grill 2 Big Four Burgers + Beer 57 Casual Dining 14 Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 59 Home Style/Southern 1 Bistro 1860 Wine Bar 52 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bistro 301 52 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro 42 72 European/Italian 10 Bistro Le Relais 75 European/French 4 The Bistro 60 Cafeterias 3 BJ’s Restaurant & Brewhouse 57 Casual Dining 5 Blackstone Grille 50 Upscale Casual 10 BLU Mediterranean Grille 50 Upscale Casual 1 Blue Dog Bakery 54 Cafés 2 Blue Horse Café 57 Casual Dining 13 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 70 Microbreweries 1, 3 Bluegrass Burgers 57 Casual Dining 3 Bluegrass Café 54 Cafés 2 Bombay Grill 76 Indian 5 Bonefish Grill 55 Seafood 5 Bonnie & Clyde’s Pizza 61 Pizza 12 Boombozz Famous Pizza 61 Pizza 3 Boombozz Pizza & Taphouse 61 Pizza 2, 5, 15 Boombozz Pizza Bistro 61 Pizza 6 Boomer’s Café 54 Cafés 1 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 66 Barbecue 11, 13 Borromeo’s Pizza 61 Pizza 13 Bourbons Bistro 53 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Brandon’s BBQ & Pizza 66 Barbecue 5 Brasserie Provence 75 European/French 5 Bravo!

50 Upscale Casual 3 Brazeiros Churrascaria 56 Steakhouse 1 Bread And Breakfast 80 Desserts/Bakery 14 Breadworks 80 Desserts/Bakery 2, 5, 7 The Brewery 67 Bar & Grill 2 Brian’s Deli 64 Sandwich/Deli 1 Brickhouse Tavern & Tap 57 Casual Dining 6 Bristol Bar & Grille 50 Upscale Casual 1,2,5,10,13,16 Brix Wine Bar 53 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 67 Bar & Grill 5 Bruegger’s Bagels 64 Sandwich/Deli 3 Buca Di Beppo 75 European/Italian 6 Buckhead Mountain Grill 57 Casual Dining 4, 16 Buck’s 48 Fine Dining 13 Bud’s Tavern & Barbecue 67 Bar & Grill 12 Buffalo Wild Wings 68 Bar & Grill 2,3,5,6,8,12,15 Bungalow Joe’s 68 Bar & Grill 11 Bunz Restaurant 57 Casual Dining 2 Burger Boy 64 Sandwich/Deli 13 Burning Bush Grille 76 Middle Eastern 10 Butcher’s Best 64 Sandwich/Deli 10 Café 27 54 Cafés 14 Café 360 76 Middle Eastern 2 Café Aroma 77 Middle Eastern 2

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Café At Main Street Café Fraiche Café Lou Lou Café Magnolia Café Mimosa Café Montagu Café Thuy Van Caffe Classico Cake Flour California Pizza Kitchen Captain’s Quarters Cardinal Hall of Fame Café Carrabba’s Italian Grille Casa Fiesta Cast Iron Steakhouse Cat Box Deli Cattleman’s Roadhouse Caviar Japanese Restaurant Cellar Door Chocolates Champions Grill Champions Sports Bar Charim Korean Restaurant Charlestown Pizza Co. Charlestown Train Station Charr’d Bourbon Kitchen Check’s Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar’s Casual Café Cheer King Star The Cheesecake Factory Cheezy’s Pizza Chef Maria’s Greek Deli Chez Seneba African The Chicken House Chicken King Chili’s China 1 China Buffet China Café China Castle China Coast China Garden China Inn China King China Taste Chinese Chef Chinese Express Chipotle Mexican Grill Chocolate Martini Bar Choi’s Asian Food Market Chong Garden Chopshop Salads Chopsticks Chopsticks House Chung King Chuy’s City Café Clarksville Seafood Clay Oven Clifton’s Pizza Clucker’s Wings Coach Lamp Coals Artisan Pizza Coffee Crossing Come Back Inn The Comfy Cow Corbett’s ‘an American place’ Corner Café Cottage Café Cottage Inn Crave Café & Catering Cravings a la Carte Creekside Outpost & Café Cricket’s Café Crystal Chinese Cuban Flavor Culver’s Cumberland Brews Cunningham’s The Cupcake Shoppe The Cure Lounge D’Nalley’s Restaurant Daisy Mae’s Dakshin Indian Restaurant DaLat’s Gateaux & Bakery Dancing Sushi Danish Express Pastries Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza Dasha Barbour’s Bistro Dave & Peg’s Copper Kettle Day’s Espresso Decca Deckers Grilled Sandwiches Del Frisco’s Derby Café Derby Dinner Playhouse Desserts By Helen Devino’s Diamond Pub & Billiards Difabio’s Casapela Dino’s Bakery DiOrio’s Pizza & Pub Dish On Market Ditto’s Grill Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Doc Crow’s Double Dragon Double Dragon II Double Dragon 9 Down One Bourbon Bar Downhome Cafeteria Dragon King’s Daughter Drake’s

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54 Cafés 6 7 54 Cafés 53 Bistro/Contemporary 2,3 1 57 Casual Dining 74 Asian/Vietnamese 2 54 Cafés 13 13 74 Asian/Vietnamese 53 Bistro/Contemporary 2 80 Desserts/Bakery 7 61 Pizza 5 10 57 Casual Dining 13 57 Casual Dining 75 European/Italian 5 77 Mexican 8 56 Steakhouse 10, 16 1 64 Sandwich/Deli 6, 13 56 Steakhouse 50 Upscale Casual 1 80 Desserts/Bakery 1, 5 16 57 Casual Dining 1 68 Bar & Grill 74 Asian/Korean 3 61 Pizza 16 16 55 Seafood 6 50 Upscale Casual 59 Home Style/Southern 1 54 Cafés 3 57 Casual Dining 8, 13, 15 1 70 Asian/Chinese 3 50 Upscale Casual 61 Pizza 16 64 Cafés 3 13 70 African 59 Home Style/Southern 14 59 Home Style/Southern 1 57 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 13 3, 5 71 Asian/Chinese 71 Asian/Chinese 15 71 Asian/Chinese 13 12 71 Asian/Chinese 13 71 Asian/Chinese 71 Asian/Chinese 13 71 Asian/Chinese 13 71 Asian/Chinese 6 16 71 Asian/Chinese 71 Asian/Chinese 13 71 Asian/Chinese 12 78 Mexican 1, 8 5 57 Casual Dining 5 72 Asian/Japanese 71 Asian/Chinese 12 57 Casual Dining 1, 3 71 Asian/Chinese 1 71 Asian/Chinese 1 71 Asian/Chinese 1 79 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,15 54 Cafés 1 55 Seafood 15 76 Indian 5 62 Pizza 2 68 Bar & Grill 13, 14, 16 57 Casual Dining 1 62 Pizza 3 80 Coffee/Tea House 14 75 European/Italian 1, 16 80 Desserts/Bakery 2,5,13,14 48 Fine Dining 8 50 Upscale Casual 5 60 Home Style/Southern 5 60 Home Style/Southern 13 55 Cafés 2 60 Cafeterias 1 55 Cafés 14 55 Cafés 15 71 Asian/Chinese 1 77 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 11 58 Casual Dining 6 70 Microbreweries 2 58 Casual Dining 1, 10 80 Desserts/Bakery 3 68 Bar & Grill 13 60 Home Style/Southern 1 60 Home Style/Southern 14 76 Indian 11 80 Desserts/Bakery 13 72 Asian/Japanese 8 64 Sandwich/Deli 3 62 Pizza 13 60 Home Style/Southern 2 60 Home Style/Southern 5 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 50 Upscale Casual 1 58 Casual Dining 6 56 Steakhouse 3 55 Cafés 13 60 Entertainment Dining 16 80 Desserts/Bakery 2 64 Sandwich/Deli 1 68 Bar & Grill 2, 3 76 European/Italian 2 80 Desserts/Bakery 4 62 Pizza 2, 3 53 Bistro/Contemporary 1 53 Bistro/Contemporary 2 64 Sandwich/Deli 1 50 Upscale Casual 1 71 Asian/Chinese 1, 2 71 Asian/Chinese 8,11,12,13 71 Asian/Chinese 6 68 Bar & Grill 1 60 Cafeterias 12 72 Asian/Japanese 2, 14 68 Bar & Grill 3, 8

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Dre’Lynn’s Soul Food 60 Home Style/Southern 13 2 Dunkin’ Donuts 80 Desserts/Bakery 12 Eagle Lake & Restaurant 55 Seafood 1 Earth Friends Café 55 Cafés East of Chicago Pizza 62 Pizza 5 Eastern House 71 Asian/Chinese 12 1 Eddie Merlot’s 56 Steakhouse 2 Eggroll Machine 71 Asian/Chinese Eiderdown 75 European/German 13 Einstein Brothers Bagels 64 Sandwich/Deli 1 15 El Burrito de Oro 78 Mexican 2 El Camino 78 Mexican El Caporal 78 Mexican 4, 6, 15 El Mariachi 78 Mexican 5 El Marlin Seafood 78 Mexican 6 13 El Molcajete 78 Mexican 13 El Molcajete 78 Mexican El Mundo 78 Mexican 2 El Nopal 78 Mexican [19] 4 El Ranchero 78 Mexican El Rincon Cuban Restaurant 77 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 13 El Sombrero 78 Mexican 16 El Taco Luchador 78 Mexican 2 3, 5, 13 El Tarasco 78 Mexican El Tenampa Bar & Grill 77 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 12 El Torazo 78 Mexican 6 El Torito de Jalisco 78 Mexican 13 El Toro Cantina & Grill 78 Mexican 5 2 Emma Lou’s Café 55 Cafés 7 Emperor of China 71 Asian/Chinese Empress of China 71 Asian/Chinese 4 The English Grill 48 Fine Dining 1 3 Equus 50 Upscale Casual 1 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 55 Cafés Exchange Pub + Kitchen 53 Bistro/Contemporary 14 The Falafel House 76 Middle Eastern 2 6, 15 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 66 Barbecue Famous Mike’s Steak & Lemonade 58 Casual Dining 13 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 62 Pizza 13 5 Fat Jimmy’s 62 Pizza 6 FDKY BBQ 66 Barbecue FeastBBQ 66 Barbecue 14 The Feed Bag 64 Sandwich/Deli 3 Fiesta Time Amigos 78 Mexican 11 8 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 78 Mexican Fire Fresh Bar B Q 66 Barbecue 1, 12 Firehouse Subs 64 Sandwich/Deli 5 First Wok 71 Asian/Chinese 12 2, 5 The Fish House 55 Seafood 3, 5 The Fishery 56 Seafood The Fishery Station 55 Seafood 11 Five Guys Burgers & Fries 58 Casual Dining 8, 14 Flanagans Ale House 68 Bar & Grill 2 Food 4 Ur Soul 60 Home Style/Southern 1 Forty Acres & A Mule 60 Home Style/Southern 13 Four King’s Café 68 Bar & Grill 4 Four Pegs Beer Lounge 53 Bistro/Contemporary 13 Four Sisters 74 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Franco’s Restaurant 60 Home Style/Southern 12 Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot 66 Barbecue 3 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli & Pizza 64 Sandwich/Deli 8 Frontier Diner 60 Home Style/Southern 12 The Fudgery 80 Desserts/Bakery 1 Fuji Asian Bistro 73 Asian/Japanese 12 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 73 Asian/Japanese 5, 8 Funmi’s African Restaurant 70 African 4 Game 58 Casual Dining 2 Garage Bar 58 Casual Dining 1 Gary’s On Spring 50 Upscale Casual 2 Gasthaus 75 European/German 7 Gatsby’s On Fourth 58 Casual Dining 1 Gavi’s Restaurant 58 Casual Dining 1 Gelato Gilberto 80 Desserts/Bakery 8 Genghis Grill 74 Asian/Mongolian 8 Gerstle’s Place 68 Bar & Grill 3 Ghyslain 75 European/French 1, 8 Gigi’s Cupcakes 80 Desserts/Bakery 6 Ginza Asian Bistro 73 Asian/Japanese 5 Golden Buddha 71 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Corral 60 Home Style/Southern [4] Golden Palace 71 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Star Chinese 71 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Wall 71 Asian/Chinese 13 Goose Creek Diner 58 Casual Dining 8 Gordon Biersch Brewery 70 Microbreweries 1 Grady’s Burgers & Wings 58 Casual Dining 13 Gralehaus 53 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Granville Inn 68 Bar & Grill 13 Grape Leaf 76 Middle Eastern 2 Great American Grill 68 Bar & Grill 13 Great Harvest Bread Co. 80 Desserts/Bakery 5 Great Wall 71 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wok 72 Asian/Chinese 13 Green Leaf Vegetarian 58 Casual Dining 13 Guaca Mole 78 Mexican 5 Habana Blues Tapas 77 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 14 Hall’s Cafeteria 60 Cafeterias 2 Hammerheads 53 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Hanabi Japanese 73 Asian/Japanese 10 Happy China 72 Asian/Chinese 6 Happy Dragon 72 Asian/Chinese 6 Hard Rock Café 54 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Harley’s Hardwoodz BBQ 66 Barbecue 16 Harvest 50 Upscale Casual 1 Havana Rumba 77 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 3,5 Havana Rumba & Tapas Bar 77 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 2 Hawksview Gallery 50 Upscale Casual 13 Hay Chi Wa Waa 78 Mexican 5 Heart & Soy 73 Asian/Japanese 2 Heine Brothers Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House [13] Heitzman Bakery & Deli 80 Desserts/Bakery 5 Henry’s Place 50 Upscale Casual 7 Hibachi Sushi Buffet 72 Asian/Chinese 11 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2014 45

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Highland Coffee Co. Highland Morning Highlands Taproom Grill Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar Hill Street Fish Fry Hilltop Tavern Hitching Post Inn Hobknobb Roasting Co. Holy Grale Home Run Burgers & Fries Homemade Pie Kitchen Hometown Buffet Hometown Pizza Honey Creme Donut Shop Honeybaked Café Hong Kong Chinese Hong Kong Fast Food Hoops Grill and Sports Bar Hooters Howl at the Moon Hunan Wok Ichiban Samurai IHOP Incredible Dave’s Indi’s Restaurant The International Mall The Irish Exit The Irish Rover Iroquois Pizza J. Alexander’s J. Graham’s Café J. Gumbo’s J. Harrods JJ Fish & Chicken Jack Binion’s Steakhouse Jack Fry’s Jack’s Lounge Jackknife Café Jade Palace Jasmin Bakery Jasmine Jason’s Deli Java Brewing Co. Jazzyblu Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse Jersey’s Café Jersey Mike’s Subs Jet’s Pizza Jimbo’s BBQ Jimmy John’s Sub Shop Joe & Kathy’s Place Joe Huber Restaurant Joe’s Crab Shack Joe’s O.K. Bayou Joe’s Older Than Dirt John O’Bryan’s Tavern Johnny Brusco’s Pizza Johnny V’s The Joy Luck JR’s Pub Jucy’s Smokehouse Jumbo Buffet Kaelin’s Coffeehouse Kailana Sushi Kalisimbi Bar & Grill Kansai Japanese Rest.

Karem’s Kashmir Indian Kayrouz Café Kenna’s Korner Kern’s Korner Khalil’s King Wok Kingfish King’s Fried Chicken Kobe Japanese Steak Koreana II KT’s Kum’s Kafe La Bamba La Carreta La Coop: Bistro à Vins La Gallo Rosso Bistro La Hacienda Guadalajara La Peche La Popular La Que La Riviera Maya La Rosita Taqueria La Sierra Lancaster’s Cafeteria Las Gorditas Le Bossier Café Lee’s Korean Legend’s Lemongrass Café Lenny’s Sub Shop The Lighthouse Lilly’s Limestone Ling Ling Little Caesars Pizza Little India Café Little Jerusalem Liu’s Garden Logan’s Roadhouse Lolitas Tacos Inc. Longhorn Steakhouse Lonnie’s Taste Of Chicago Loop 22 Los Aztecas Lotsa Pasta Loui Loui’s Detroit Pizza 46 Summer 2014 www.foodanddine.com

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80 Coffee/Tea House 2 2 55 Cafés 2 68 Bar & Grill 5 73 Asian/Japanese 56 Seafood 13 68 Bar & Grill 2 11 68 Bar & Grill 14 80 Coffee/Tea House 54 Bistro/Contemporary 2 58 Casual Dining 3, 5, 6, 13 [9] 80 Desserts 60 Home Style/Southern 6,3 62 Pizza 7 81 Desserts/Bakery 14 64 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 14 14 72 Asian/Chinese 13 72 Asian/Chinese 68 Bar & Grill 13 58 Casual Dining 3,13,12,15,16 60 Entertainment Dining 1 11 72 Asian/Chinese 73 Asian/Japanese 6 58 Casual Dining 6, 15 60 Entertainment Dining 8 60 Home Style/Southern 1,3,13 76 European/Italian 1 75 European/Irish 14 75 European/Irish 2, 7 13 62 Pizza 3 51 Upscale Casual 55 Cafés 1 77 Cajun/Creole 1,2,6,16 10 51 Upscale Casual 16 56 Seafood 48 Fine Dining 14 49 Fine Dining 2 54 Bistro/Contemporary 3 55 Cafés 2 72 Asian/Chinese 5 4 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 72 Asian/Chinese 64 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5 80 Coffee/Tea House 2,8 54 Bistro/Contemporary 1 1 56 Steakhouse 68 Bar & Grill 15 64 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 62 Pizza 2, 3 13 66 Barbecue [11] 64 Sandwich/Deli 58 Casual Dining 12 60 Entertainment Dining 14 56 Seafood 1 77 Cajun/Creole 6 58 Casual Dining 5 68 Bar & Grill 12 62 Pizza 8 62 Pizza 6 72 Asian/Chinese 2 68 Bar & Grill 14 66 Barbecue 5 72 Asian/Chinese 6 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 73 Asian/Japanese 11 70 African 13 73 Asian/Japanese 6, 15 58 Casual Dining 8 76 Indian 2 55 Cafés 3 62 Pizza 8 58 Casual Dining 2 68 Bar & Grill 12 72 Asian/Chinese 3 56 Seafood 6, 7, 16 60 Home Style/Southern 13 73 Asian/Japanese 16 74 Asian/Korean 13 51 Upscale Casual 2 60 Home Style/Southern 13 78 Mexican 2 78 Mexican 13 75 European/French 1 76 European/Italian 2 78 Mexican 13 55 Cafés 2 78 Mexican 13 74 Asian/Vietnamese 2 78 Mexican 13 78 Mexican 5, 13, 15 78 Mexican 11 60 Cafeterias 15 78 Mexican 11 60 Home Style/Southern 1 74 Asian/Korean 13 58 Casual Dining 14 74 Asian/Vietnamese 5 64 Sandwich/Deli 4 68 Bar & Grill 16 49 Fine Dining 2 49 Fine Dining 5 72 Asian/Chinese 5 62 Pizza [12] 76 Indian 4 76 Middle Eastern 13 72 Asian/Chinese 5 56 Steakhouse 3, 6, 12, 15 78 Mexican 13 56 Steakhouse 6, 8, 13, 15 64 Sandwich/Deli 2, 13 54 Bistro/Contemporary 2 83 Mexican 1, 5, 10 64 Sandwich/Deli 3 62 Pizza 6

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Louis Le Francais 75 European/French 14 1 Louis’s “The Ton” 68 Bar & Grill 6 Louisville Pizza Co. 62 Pizza 5 Louisville Tea Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House Luigi’s 62 Pizza 1 Ma Zerellas 62 Pizza 15 4 Maa Sha Allah 70 African 14 Magdalena’s 58 Casual Dining Main Eatery 64 Sandwich/Deli 1 Mai’s Thai Restaurant 74 Asian/Thai 16 Majid’s St. Matthews 54 Bistro/Contemporary 3 1 Maker’s Mark Lounge 51 Upscale Casual Mango’s Bar & Grill 78 Mexican 6, 13 Manhattan Grill 58 Casual Dining 1 Manny & Merle 54 Bistro/Contemporary 1 14 Marco’s Pizza 62 Pizza Marketplace Restaurant 54 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Mark’s Feed Store 66 Barbecue 2, 5, 11, 12, 14 Marlyce’s Place 81 Desserts/Bakery 15 8 Martini Italian Bistro 76 European/Italian 5 Masa Japanese 73 Asian/Japanese Masala Grill 76 Middle Eastern 1 Match Cigar Bar 54 Bistro/Contemporary 16 1 Mayan Café 78 Mexican [9] McAlister’s Deli 64 Sandwich/Deli Mellow Mushroom 62 Pizza 3, 5 The Melting Pot 51 Upscale Casual 6 Meridian Café 55 Cafés 3 4 Mexican Fiesta 78 Mexican 3 Mikato Japanese Steakhouse 73 Asian/Japanese Mike Linnig’s 56 Seafood 12 Mike’s Tavern 68 Bar & Grill 14 1 MilkWood 49 Fine Dining 5 Mimi’s Café 58 Casual Dining Mimo’s Pizzeria 62 Pizza 14 Mirage Mediterranean Grill 76 Middle Eastern 13 Miss C’s Kitchen & Pantry 60 Home Style/Southern 1,2 Mitchell’s Fish Market 56 Seafood 8 Moe’s Southwest Grill 79 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,6,8,11,15 7 Mojito Tapas Restaurant 76 European/Spanish 2, 3 Molly Malone’s 75 European/Irish Momma’s Mustard, Pickles & BBQ 66 Barbecue 3, 5 The Monkey Wrench 58 Casual Dining 2 More Shenanigan’s 75 European/Irish 4 1, 2 Morris Deli & Catering 64 Sandwich/Deli Morton’s of Chicago 56 Steakhouse 1 Mr. Gattis 62 Pizza 5, 12, 13, 15 Mrs. Potter’s Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House 1 13 Mt. Fuji 73 Asian/Japanese 2 Mulligan’s Pub and Grill 58 Casual Dining Muscle Monkey Café 64 Sandwich/Deli 6,8,14,15 Mussel & Burger Bar 54 Bistro/Contemporary 6 My Favorite Muffin 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 My Old KY Dinner Train 60 Entertainment Dining 13 NamNam Café 74 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Nana’s Country Kitchen 60 Home Style/Southern 12 Nancy’s Bagel Box 64 Sandwich/Deli 1 Nancy’s Bagel Grounds 64 Sandwich/Deli 2 Napa River Grill 51 Upscale Casual 5 Neil & Patty’s Fireside Grill 58 Casual Dining 14 New Albanian Brewing Co. 62 Pizza 14 New Albany Roadhouse 58 Casual Dining 14 New China 72 Asian/Chinese 5 New Direction Bar & Grill 68 Bar & Grill 8 Nonnie’s Kitchen 55 Cafés 5 Nord’s Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 13 North End Café 54 Bistro/Contemporary 2 O’Charley’s 58 Casual Dining 3,6,8,13,12,15 O’Dolly’s 60 Home Style/Southern 13 O’Shea’s Irish Pub 75 European/Irish 2 The Oakroom 49 Fine Dining 1 Oishii Sushi 73 Asian/Japanese 4 Old 502 Winery 54 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza 62 Pizza 6, 8 Old Louisville Tavern 68 Bar & Grill 13 Old School NY Pizza 62 Pizza 5 Old Spaghetti Factory 76 European/Italian 1 Old Stone Inn 51 Upscale Casual 5 Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 66 Barbecue 11 O-Line Sports Grill 68 Bar & Grill 8 The Olive Garden 76 European/Italian 6,8,11,15 Olive Leaf Bistro 54 Bistro/Contemporary 16 Ollie’s Trolley 64 Sandwich/Deli 1 Onion Restaurant & Tea House 72 Asian/Chinese 14 Orange Clover Kitchen 55 Cafés 16 Oriental House 72 Asian/Chinese 3 Oriental Star 72 Asian/Chinese 13 Original Impellizzeri’s 62 Pizza 1, 2, 10 Osaka Sushi Bar 73 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Outback Steakhouse 56 Steakhouse 3,8,11,13,15 P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 51 Upscale Casual 5 Palermo Viejo 77 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 2 Panda Chinese 72 Asian/Chinese 10 Panda Express 72 Asian/Chinese 6, 15 Panera Bread Co. 64 Sandwich/Deli [9] Papa John’s 62 Pizza [30] Papa Murphy’s Pizza 63 Pizza 3,4,5,8,11,12,14,15,16 Papalino’s NY Pizzeria 63 Pizza 2, 8 Passtime Fish House 56 Seafood 6 Patrick O’Shea’s 75 European/Irish 1 Pat’s Steak House 56 Steakhouse 2 Paul’s Fruit Market 64 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 5, 7 Pearl 74 Asian/Vietnamese 14 Peking City Bistro 72 Asian/Chinese 5 Penn Station 64 Sandwich/Deli [17] Peppers Bar and Grill 58 Casual Dining 1 Perfetto Pizza 63 Pizza 6 Perkfection 80 Coffee/Tea House 16 Pesto’s Italian 76 European/Italian 1 Petra Mediterranean 76 Middle Eastern 4 Philly Steak & Burger 56 Casual Dining 2 Pho Binh Minh 74 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Pina Fiesta Mexican Grill 78 Mexican 12

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Pink Baron BBQ 66 Barbecue 16 2 Pita Hut 76 Middle Eastern 5, 6 Pita Pit 76 Middle Eastern 13 Pizza Donisi 63 Pizza Pizza King 63 Pizza 14, 16 4 Pizza Place 63 Pizza 2 Please & Thank You 80 Coffee/Tea House Pleasure Ridge Place 63 Pizza 12 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 5 Plump Peacock Bakery 55 Cafés Ponderosa Steakhouse 56 Steakhouse 13 Porcini 76 European/Italian 2 Potbelly Sandwich Shop 64 Sandwich/Deli 1, 8 14 Primo’s Delicatessen 64 Sandwich/Deli 13 Prince Hookah Lounge 76 Middle Eastern Proof On Main 51 Upscale Casual 1 10 Prospect Café 55 Cafés 3 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 63 Pizza Puerto Vallarta 78 Mexican 11, 14, 16 Pujols Mexican Restaurant 78 Mexican 6 Pupuseria y Taqueria 77 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 13 Qdoba Mexican Grill 78 Mexican [16] Quad Café 58 Casual Dining 16 Queen of Sheba 70 African 4 1 Queue Café 55 Cafés Quick Wok 72 Asian/Chinese 1 Quill’s Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House 2, 13, 14 Quizno’s Subs 65 Sandwich/Deli 1,5,13,14,15 3, 8 Rafferty’s of Louisville 58 Casual Dining Raising Cane’s 58 Casual Dining 8 Ramiro’s Cantina 78 Mexican 2 Ramsi’s Café 54 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Red Hot Roasters 80 Coffee/Tea House 1, 2 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 58 Casual Dining 3, 8 Red Sun Chinese 72 Asian/Chinese 4 Red’s Comfort Food 65 Sandwich/Deli 1 River City Drafthouse 68 Bar & Grill 2 River City Winery 54 Bistro/Contemporary 4 River Road BBQ 66 Barbecue 7 Riverside Café 55 Cafés 16 Riviera Maya Mexican 78 Mexican 2 Rivue 49 Fine Dining 1 13 Rob-A-Que 66 Barbecue 4 Rocky’s Pizza & Panini 63 Pizza 16 Rocky’s Sub Pub 63 Pizza 5 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 76 European/Italian Rooster Creek 60 Home Style/Southern 11 Roosters 58 Casual Dining 5,12,13,15 Rootie’s Sports Bar & Grille 68 Bar & Grill 8 Roots 73 Asian/Japanese 2 Rosie’s Pizza 63 Pizza 5 Rosticeria Luna 78 Mexican 13 Royal Garden 72 Asian/Chinese 13 Rubbie’s Southside Grill & Bar 66 Barbecue 13 Ruby Tuesday 58 Casual Dining 6, 15 The Rudyard Kipling 58 Casual Dining 1 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 56 Seafood 5 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 56 Steakhouse 3 Ryan’s Steakhouse 57 Steakhouse 11 Rye 51 Upscale Casual 1 SaE Café 65 Sandwich/Deli 1 Saffron’s 77 Middle Eastern 1 Safier Mediterranean Deli 77 Middle Eastern 1 Saigon Café 74 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Saigon One 74 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Saint’s 68 Bar & Grill 3 Sake Blue Japanese Bistro 73 Asian/Japanese 11 Sakura Blue 73 Asian/Japanese 3 Sala Thai 74 Asian/Thai 11 Sal’s Pizza & Wings 63 Pizza 5 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 79 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,5 Sam’s Food & Spirits 59 Casual Dining 14 Sam’s Gyro 77 Middle Eastern 6 Sam’s Hot Dog Stand 59 Casual Dining 2 Santa Fe Grill 79 Mexican 13 Sapporo Japanese Grill 73 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Sari Sari Filipino Cuisine 72 Asian/Filipino 2 Schlotzsky’s Deli 65 Sandwich/Deli 8 Scotty’s Ribs & More 66 Barbecue 5 Scotty’s Village Market 65 Sandwich/Deli 8 Selena’s at Willow Lake Tavern 77 Cajun/Creole 5 Señor Iguana’s 79 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 13, 15 Señor Taco 79 Mexican 11 Sergio’s World Beers 69 Bar & Grill 2 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 49 Fine Dining 2 Shack In The Back BBQ 66 Barbecue 13 Shady Lane Café 65 Sandwich/Deli 7 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 74 Asian/Mongolian 6, 13 Shalimar Indian 76 Indian 6 Shane’s Rib Shack 66 Barbecue 7 Shanghai Restaurant 72 Asian/Chinese 1 Shark’s Fish & Chicken 56 Seafood 13 Shelia’s Southern Cuisine 60 Home Style/Southern 2 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 75 European/Irish 2 Sherry’s Corner Café 55 Cafés 16 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 77 Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 13 Shirley Mae’s Café 60 Home Style/Southern 1 Shogun 73 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Shoney’s 59 Casual Dining 5, 13 Sichuan Garden 72 Asian/Chinese 6 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 63 Pizza 1 Sidebar 54 Bistro/Contemporary 1 The Silver Dollar 54 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Simply Thai 74 Asian/Thai 3, 5 Sin Fronteras 79 Mexican 15 Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor 63 Pizza 15 Sister Bean’s 80 Coffee/Tea House 13 Skyline Chili 59 Casual Dining 2, 3, 6, 12 Smashburger 59 Casual Dining 1, 5 Smokehouse BBQ 66 Barbecue 11 Smoketown USA 67 Barbecue 1 Smokey Bones BBQ 67 Barbecue 6 Smokey’s Bean 80 Coffee/Tea House 13 Snappy Tomato 63 Pizza 8

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Sol Aztecas 79 Sonoma Coffee Café 80 Sora Sushi 73 Spaghetti Shop 76 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 63 Sporting News Grill 69 The Sports & Social Club 69 Spread Buffet, The 59 Spring St. Bar & Grill 69 St. Charles Exchange 51 Star Sushi 73 Starbucks Coffee 80 Starving Artist Café 65 State Donuts 81 Steak N Shake 59 Stevens & Stevens Deli 65 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 76 Stoney River 57 Stricker’s Café 55 Studio Pizza 63 Sub Station II 65 Sugar & Spice Donut Shop 81 Sully’s Saloon 69 Sunday’s Home Cooking 60 Sunergos Coffee 80 SuperChef’s Breakfast 55 Sway 52 Sweets Frog 81 Sweet Stuff Bakery 81 Sweet Surrender 81 Sweets & Such Bakery 81 Taco Punk 59 Taco Tico 79 Tacqueria La Mexicana 79 Taj Palace 76 TanThai Restaurant 74 River City Drafthouse 69 Taylor G’s Jamaican Jerk 77 Tazza Mia 80 TC’s Sandwich Shoppe 65 Tea Station Chinese Bistro 72 Teena’s Pizza 63 Texas Roadhouse 57 Texicans BBQ Pit 67 TGI Friday’s 59 Thai Café 74 Thai Noodles 74 Thai Siam 74 Thai Taste 74 That Place On Goss 59 The Back Door 69 The Café 55 The Cheddar Box 55 The Cheddar Box Too 55 The Place Downstairs 52 Thornberry’s Deli & Pies 65 Tienda La Chapinlandia 79 Tin Roof 69 Toast On Market 59 Tokyo Japanese 73 Tom + Chee 65 Tomo 73 Tony Impellizzeri’s 63 Troll Pub Under The Bridge 69 Tucker’s 59 Tumbleweed 79 Tuscany Italian Restaurant 76 Tut’s Mediterranean 77 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 59 Uncle Maddio’s Pizza Joint 63 Uptown Café 52 Varanese 52 Verbana Café 55 Vic’s Café 69 Vietnam Kitchen 74 Village Anchor Pub & Roost 54 Vincenzo’s 49 Vint Coffee 80 Vito’s Pizza 63 Volare 76 W.g. Grinders 59 W.W. Cousin’s 65 Wagner’s Pharmacy 60 Wall Street Deli 66 Warehouse Hookah Café 77 Wasabiya Japanese Rest. 73 Way Cool Café 55 Webb’s Market 60 Wick’s Pizza 63 Wild Eggs 55 Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion 74 Wild Rita’s 79 William’s Bakery 81 Wiltshire On Market 52 Wiltshire Pantry Bakery 55 The Wing Zone 59 Wingstop 70 Winston’s 49 Wok Express 72 Wonton Express 72 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 52 Yafa Café 55 Yang Kee Noodle 72 Yellow Cactus 79 Yen Ching 72 You-Carryout-A 72 Zäd Modern Mediterranean 77 Zanzabar 70 Za’s Pizza 63 Zaxby’s 59 Zen Garden 75 Zoe’s Kitchen 77 Zoup!

66 Z’s Oyster Bar 49

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Mexican 1, 2, 11 2 Coffee/Tea House 5 Asian/Japanese European/Italian 11, 14 Pizza 1, 2, 3, 8, 12 13 Bar & Grill 1 Bar & Grill Casual Dining 14 Bar & Grill 2 1 Upscale Casual Asian/Japanese 16 Coffee/Tea House [35] Sandwich/Deli 5 8 Desserts/Bakery Casual Dining 4,6,8,13,12,15 Sandwich/Deli 2 7 European/Italian 8 Steakhouse Cafés 16 Pizza 15 13 Sandwich/Deli Desserts/Bakery 11 Bar & Grill 1 Home Style/Southern 13 Coffee/Tea House 1, 13 Cafés 3 Casual Dining 1 [4] Desserts/Bakery 14 Desserts/Bakery Desserts/Bakery 2 Desserts/Bakery 12 Casual Dining 1 Mexican 12 Mexican 13 Indian 8 Asian/Thai 14 Bar & Grill 1 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 1 Coffee/Tea House 6 Sandwich/Deli 1 Asian/Chinese 8 Pizza 13 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 7 Barbecue 1 Casual Dining 7 Asian/Thai 13 Asian/Thai Asian/Thai 4 Asian/Thai 2 Casual Dining 13 Bar & Grill 2 Cafés 1 Cafés 3 Cafés 3 Upscale Casual 6 Sandwich/Deli 13 Mexican 13 Bar & Grill 3 Casual Dining 1, 14 Asian/Japanese 7 Sandwich/Deli 2, 3, 13 Asian/Japanese 14 Pizza 14 Bar & Grill 1 Casual Dining 14 Southwest/Tex Mex [15] European/Italian 13 Middle Eastern 4 Casual Dining 2 Pizza 2 Upscale Casual 7 Upscale Casual 2 Cafés 8 Bar & Grill 14 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Fine Dining 1 Coffee/Tea House 2 Pizza 13 European/Italian 2 Casual Dining 7 Sandwich/Deli 3, 13 Home Style/Southern 13 Sandwich/Deli 1 Middle Eastern 14 Asian/Japanese 2 Cafés 1 Home Style/Southern 1 Pizza 2, 5, 8, 14 Cafés 1, 3, 5 Asian/Japanese 2 Mexican 1 Desserts/Bakery 15 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 2 Casual Dining 13 Bar & Grill 12 Fine Dining 4 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 4 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 1 Asian/Chinese 5 Mexican 14 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 15, 16 Middle Eastern 3 Bar & Grill 13 Pizza 2 Casual Dining [5] Asian/Vietnamese 2 Middle Eastern 1, 3, 8 Sandwich/Deli 1 Fine Dining 5 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2014 47

GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15-$20 $$ = $9-$14 $$$$ = $21 & up RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night OPEN PAST 10 P.M.

p = Full Bar

Outdoor f = Dining e = Live Music

7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise).

All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 896-9570. To find 211 Clover Lane you have to negotiate St. Matthews side streets and cross railroad tracks to locate the restaurant notched into the corner of a little upscale cluster of shops. When you do, you can enjoy drinks in a newly expanded lounge, and dine off seasonal menus from chef Troy Shuster, who, along with owner Andrew Smith, have kept 211 Clover Lane among the town’s top tables for two decades. $$$$ Br L D pf 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. For nearly a decade Edward Lee has maintained his Old Louisville restaurant’s reputation as a dining destination. Now Nick Sullivan has taken over as executive chef as Lee, with his recent Food TV national exposure, has assumed the role of impresario. The monthly family style pasta and bistro dinners across the street in the Wine Studio give diners a way to appreciate 610’s style at a lower price point. $$$$ D pf BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant and understated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower Apartments is overseen by chef Andrew Welenken, who has kept long-standing favorites like the crispy fish, but has extended his menu into new areas, such as the fried oysters Rockefeller, maple-bourbon glazed pork chop and country-fried quail. Rick Bartlett continues his long tenure at the piano. $$$ L D hpfe CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, longtime fixture on the Louisville dining scene, went all-out with his East End destination. Housed in the stunning former Von Allmen mansion, Corbett’s kitchen is state of the art, the dining room amenities include a chef’s table with closed circuit TV connection to the kitchen, and his menu has been earning raves. Worth the trip and the price. $$$$ L D hpf ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. This landmark, formal dining room is now under control of executive chef Josh Bettis, who is introducing new menu ideas such as pressed watermelon tuna nicoise, monkfish over polenta and peanut butter mousse and lemon panna cotta for desserts. The chef’s table in the kitchen is still a great place for a special party. $$$ D p JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Housed in the Horseshoe Casino, Jack Binion’s, a stylish, upscale place, is 48 Summer 2014 www.foodanddine.com

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

no gamble for hearty dining. A traditional steakhouse, but one that aims high: top quality meat, impeccable service, a high-roller’s ambience. $$$$ D hp JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Inside its unprepossessing exterior is one of Louisville’s longestrunning top tables. Seating is tight; it is noisy; but the food is consistently excellent. Shawn Ward, its executive chef for 18 years, has left to direct the kitchen at what will become Junction 426 (for now, The Brewery). In his absence, veteran sous chef McClain Brown has taken the helm. Brown promised he’ll keep classic menu items that regulars love while looking to modernize the restaurant’s infrastructure a bit, and gradually introduce some new cooking techniques. $$$$ L D hpe LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution for more than a quarter-century, Lilly’s, under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, continues to be as fresh as the locally-sourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus. Her frequent special wine dinners are among the more affordable and creative in the area. $$$$ Br L D p LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. Chef Jim Gerhardt has established a stylish and elegant dining experience in the East End. Seasonal theme dinners and the Feed Me Chef ad hoc dinners offer special values. $$$$ L D hpf MILKWOOD 316 W. Main St., 584-6455. Owner Edward Lee has made the downstairs space at Actors Theatre a dining destination even after curtain call and when the theater is dark. Executive chef Kevin Ashworth’s menu blends Asian and Southern influences and has received national attention. The sleek, clean updating of the space is both chic and welcoming. $$$ D p THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. Chef de cuisine Patrick Roney captains the kitchen at Seelbach’s AAA five-diamond awarded formal restaurant. His clever menu features a sophisticated and contemporary blend seafood, beef and pork served with local and seasonal ingredients. Insider tip: You won’t regret putting your wine choices in the hands of sommelier Julie DeFriend. $$$$ Br D pe

PREPARE YOUR SENSES. Winston’s has enhanced its menu of award-winning cuisine and contemporary cocktails.

502-456-0980 | winstonsoflouisville.com Lunch: Friday & Saturday 11am-2pm; Sunday 10am-2pm | Dinner: Friday & Saturday 5:30-10pm Reservations recommended | 3101 Bardstown Road

RIVUE 140 N. Fourth St., (Galt House Hotel) 568-4239.

The sleek black and white modern decor, slowly spinning to give a panorama of the city, brings to mind an old Fred Astaire movie. New chef Dustin Willard’s upscale menu adds another top hotel dining experience to the city. $$$ Br D hp SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers an eclectic range of Latin American dishes in addition to the namesake the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices. Continuing to get notice throughout the Southeast for his imaginative cooking, he is setting a standard of cool for the Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ D hpf VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ L D hpe WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Rd. (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Higher education meets higher cuisine at this elegant oncampus restaurant staffed by Sullivan culinary arts students. But this is no college lab; it’s an attractive and stylish restaurant. Chef John Castro runs the staff through its paces guaranteeing that while students are learning their craft, your dinner will ace the test. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$$ Br L D p Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000, 115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000. The successful upscale steak and oyster concept that has worked so well in the Hurstbourne suburbs is

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music 7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2014 49

now also the theme at Z’s sleek downtown venue.

Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience will give visitors another center-city choice. $$$$ L D hp

60 WEST BISTRO & MARTINI BAR 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. 60 West combines a comfortable dining room with a large, friendly bar offering an imposing list of martinis and martini-style cocktails.

The menu offers fairly priced Contemporary American bistro fare. $$$ D hfe ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Fifteen years ago Chef Peng Looi introduced Louisville diners to pan-Asian Pacific Rim fusion cuisine. In his sophisticated, multi-level, Bardstown Road restaurant he continues to offer clean, simple, elegant dishes that present often startling flavor combinations. His wok-seared salmon has long been a local favorite. $$$ Br D hpf AUSTIN’S 4950 U.S. 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ Br L D p 7 BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Chef Michael Ton brought a new style of Asian fusion cuisine to Louisville, playing entertaining riffs off Vietnamese cooking, with daring choices like caramelized catfish claypot and tamarind-sriracha gelato. $$$ D hp BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, 228-6962.

Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell continues to please his many fans at his latest restaurant in the Prospect Center. The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. The monthly LobsterFest night is worth checking out. $$$ Br D pf BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine in striking surroundings highlighted by Mexican limestone and Italian marble. For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ B Br L D pe BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491.

Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Romanruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and firstrate grilled meats. $$ Br L D hpf BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 456-1702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 1860 Mellwood Ave., 895-4158, 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 292-2585, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant renaissance, The Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now with six venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the greenchile won tons and the Bristol Burger. F&D columnist Scott Harper has crafted an exceptional wine selection. $$ Br L D hpf 7 CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Sammy Sa, the genial host of the Fuji restaurants in the East End, also pleases downtown diners with this stylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel. Eat at the sushi bar, choose a comfortable table or reserve the traditional Japanesestyle Tatami Room for your group. $$$ L D hp CHARR’D BOURBON KITCHEN & LOUNGE 1903 Embassy Square Blvd. (Marriott Louisville East), 49150 Summer 2014 www.foodanddine.com

1184. The J’town Marriott Hotel’s restaurant is on the Urban Bourbon Trail, which explains menu divisions such as “10 Minute White Dog” lunch choices, and “Bootlegger Burger Bar.” The bar boasts over 75 offerings of Bourbon. $$$ Br L D hp THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd. (Mall St. Matthews), 897-3933. One of 175 outlets of the California-based chain, this popular restaurant maintains a large and diverse menu that entices and satisfies a wide range of diners. Food quality is above average for this kind restaurant chain, though its namesake cheesecakes are baked in California and North Carolina. $$$ Br L D hpf CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119.

This family-owned and operated, classier-than-theaverage-strip mall place has quietly turned out delicious menus for better than 25 years. The Frederick family serves an eclectic menu (blackened tenderloin, lump crab meat-encrusted sea bass, Andouille-stuffed chicken, garlic-basil chicken pizza), and dishes like Irish pork have won prizes at local charity contests. $$$ L D hp DECCA 812 E. Market St., 749-8128. Decca’s handsomely re-done 19th-century building, its serene garden, its classy basement bar and breezy second-floor eating balcony are all fun. But chef Anne Pettry’s inventive, locally sourced menu combined with the restaurant’s wine program make it a classy place to dine. Live music in the garden in nice weather; in the bar when not. $$$$ D hpfe DOC CROW’S 127 W. Main St., 587-1626. Doc Crow’s solidly anchors the dining choices on Whiskey Row. Oysters from both coasts, raw and fried, fried green tomatoes, pork rinds, shrimp and grits, all served in a handsome renovation of one of Main Street’s classic cast-iron front buildings. $$ L D hp EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. The appeal of chefowner Dean Corbett’s first restaurant continues nearly three decades after its opening. The casual atmosphere and menu focus on clever re-imaginings of comfort foods make the St. Matthews spot an enduring and delightful dining choice. $$$ D p GARY’S ON SPRING 204 Spring St., 584-5533. Chef Harold Baker has been at the helm of this Irish Hill upscale casual spot since the start. His menu features appetizers such as a baby Hot Brown and chicken fritters with red chili sauce, a buffalo mozzarella salad, bison ribeye, Bourbon Street scallops and eggplant Napoleon. $$$ D phpfe HARVEST 624 E. Market St., 384-9090. Agricultural entrepreneur Ivor Chodkowski’s venture into the restaurant world has succeeded beyond his initial imaginings. Chef Coby Ming’s seasonal menus, intensely focused on sourcing ingredients within a 100-mile radius, increases diners’ awareness of how much local food producers can do. Dishes such as smoked goat cheese ravioli and buttermilk fried chicken with arugula hoecake show what they have in mind. $$$ Br L D hpf HAWKSVIEW GALLERY AND CAFÉ 170 Carter Ave., Shepherdsville KY, (502) 955-1010. In this “American bistro with a Southern twist,” diners eat amidst a gallery of hand-crafted glass art. Daily specials are inspired by world cuisines and the “confectionary artist” creates sweets like Linzer tortes and extreme turtle cheesecake. Watch glass being blown as you dine. $$ Br L D e HENRY’S PLACE 4863 Brownsboro Ctr., 690-6585.

This East End, Euro-inspired brigade de cuisine restaurant offers affordable upscale dining in surroundings of “sophisticated retro Mad Men 60s” decor. The eclectic menu offers choices such as Wagyu beef carpaccio, chicken ballotine and cioppino. Chef and co-owner Charles Reed even uses double-yolk duck eggs in his house-made pasta for added richness and color. $$$$ D p

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J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ D hp J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. For 20 years people have driven to Prospect for the wellprepared, old-school menu offerings at J. Harrod’s.

Served with aplomb in a quiet, comfortable dining room, the substantial menu includes grilled steaks and chops, pasta, seafood, fried green tomatoes and chicken livers with gravy. $$$ D p KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. This allAmerican bistro and bar continues to pack in appreciative customers. Young professionals find the bar scene congenial, the food comforting, the ambience friendly. A popular place for Sunday brunch. $$ Br L D hpf 7 MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE 446 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 568-9009.

Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Distillery lends its name and its signature red-wax image to this stylish restaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magisterial bar features more than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$$ L D hpf MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125.

This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ D hp NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 423-5822. One of the original tenants in the steadily growing Westport Road restaurant and retail complex, Napa River Grill continues its West Coast wine country and Pacific Rim fusion-focused menu. Look for dishes such as tempura chicken salad, ahi tuna nachos, pad Thai, togarashi-blackened sea bass and pan-roasted chicken over dried tomato polenta. $$$ L D hpf 7 OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. For many years diners have happily driven out to Simpsonville to enjoy both the historic building and the traditional Kentucky menu of this dining institution. Those in the know order the fried chicken and country ham. $$$ Br L D pfe P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinesestyle dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$$ L D hpf PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St. (21c Hotel), 2176360. Executive chef Levon Wallace has kept the bison burger and the charred octopus on the menu, and gradually moved toward his own vision with dishes such as scallops with caramelized fennel and Kentucky cassoulet, using rabbit sausage, blackeyed peas and collards. The bar remains one of the hippest in town.$$$ Br L D hpf RYE 900 E. Market St., 749-6200. New York hip meets Kentucky farm produce and meats, and the result is a daily menu focused on what is freshest. Every dish is created with unpretentious flair and served in a sleek — if noisy — East Market Street ambience.

Chef Tyler Morris’s house-made charcuterie program is exceptional. $$ L D hpf ST. CHARLES EXCHANGE 113 S. Seventh St., 618-1917.

The elegantly handsome renovation of a one-time hotel is a fine place to sip crafted cocktails at the long wood bar while munching on the fancy deviled eggs. Stop in at lunch for Elvis on horseback (dates stuffed with peanut butter and wrapped in bacon), fried oysters, or interesting sandwiches and hearty lunch plates. Dinner selections include soup au pistou, scallops and arancini and red quinoa gnocchi. $$$$ D hp

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SWAY 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434.

The handsome dining room on the entry level of the hotel has a bar that opens to Fourth street in good weather, and a menu based on the “Southern Way,” from whence comes the name Sway. The fried chicken quickly became a signature dish, and their version of shrimp and grits has won praise. $$$ B L D hpf THE PLACE DOWNSTAIRS 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 333-0376. It’s downstairs from the popular Mussel & Burger Bar, an elegant space accessible only by elevator from the rear of M&BB, where chef/owner Fernando Martinez can display all the culinary skills he has been developing over the last several years.

The menu is cutting edge, but at a more moderate price point than one might expect. $$$ D hpe UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212.

The Uptown has been an excellent spot for lunch and bistro-style dinners for so long that people seem to take it for granted. Those in the know find it an excellent value, for its Highlands location and sophisticated ambience, as well as the eclectic modern menu that includes seasonal small plate selections by long-time chef Matt Weber. $$$ L D

hpf VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese has made even old-timers forget that this stylish venue was once a gas station. With a slate interior waterfall and a front wall that folds open in good weather, the dining room is as interesting as the lively, international seasonal menu. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ D hpfe VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian.)

WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 5895224. Understated elegance and creative dishes characterize this NuLu restaurant. The finely crafted small plates menu changes weekly to showcase the best seasonal ingredients. Start with the weekly charcuterie board or cheese plate, followed by a seasonal flatbread or salad, and perhaps a pasta dish such as goat cheese and lemon ravioli in pink peppercorn butter sauce. Open Thur.-Sun. only.

Reservations suggested. $$ D pf YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Fourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of East and West, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ L D hp

ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ B L D hp BISTRO 1860 WINE BAR 1765 Mellwood Ave., 6181745. Chef Michael Crouch’s concept of offering most dishes at three sizes and/or price ranges — petite for tasting, appetizer and small entrée — allows diners to explore the menu at a reasonable cost. The homey old Butchertown building is comfy and chic. During fair weather, dine in the shady garden, or ask to be seated in the Camel Lounge upstairs. $$$ D hpf BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Its central location across the street from the Convention Center and a short stroll from the Yum! Center makes this stylish casual bistro a good choice for food and drink before or after an event. You can enjoy chef James Lucas’s classic modern menu in the noisy, hospitable bar, or in the quieter dining room off to the side. $$$ L D pf

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BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838.

It’s a comfortably upscale-casual restaurant, and a great bar, with a very comprehensive Bourbon list.

Chef Jeff ”The Dude” Bridges has been reinvigorating this Crescent Hill favorite’s menu to match the excellence of its libations. $$$ D pf BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120.

The use of an obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ D hpe CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776, 2216 Dundee Rd., 459-9566. Critical raves and packed-in crowds at both locations testify to the popularity of Owner-Chef Clay Wallace’s international bill of fare and laissez les bon temps rouler mood. $$ Br L D

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CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch, or a hip stop for a late-night supper. $$ B L D fe DISH ON MARKET 434 W. Market St., 315-0669.

Owner Anderson Grissom has made old-timers almost forget the old Delta Restaurant, whose location he took several years ago. Offering breakfast, lunch and dinner in the comfortable, brick-walled space, you can get your day going with eggs or omelets or bread pudding French toast.

Lunch on salads, sandwiches or burgers or choose a dinner entrée (meatloaf, say, or chicken and waffles) any time of the day or night. $ B Br L D pf DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129.

This informally whimsical Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Sure, take note of the fanciful artwork adorning the exposed brick walls and the gargoyles in the ceiling. But don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ Br L D hpf EXCHANGE PUB + KITCHEN 118 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 948-6501. Owner Ian Hall has made his gastropub in a sumptuously renovated historic building a fun place to sit and sample the eclectic bistro-style menu. Try the Korean BBQ or jalapeño fritters, steak frites or cider-glazed chicken. Wash things down with something from its substantial beer, wine and cocktails list that even includes house-made ginger ale. $$ L D hpfe FOUR PEGS BEER LOUNGE 1053 Goss Ave., 634-1447.

Four Pegs has settled in nicely to the Germantown scene. Twelve craft beers on tap and a 30 bottle beer list brings in the fans, who also appreciate the award-winning veggie burger and other well-priced pub grub such as a chicken and waffle sandwich and an estimable burger with bacon-fried green tomatoes and beer sauce. $ D h f GRALEHAUS 1001 Baxter Ave., 454-7075. In the house behind the Holy Grale’s beer garden is gralehouse, a café and deli. It marks the latest expansion of the business that began with the Louisville Beer Store and the Holy Grale. gralehouse’s breakfast and lunch menu includes biscuit and duck gravy, an open-face short rib sandwich, crepes, and a coffee bar, with housemade sodas, shrubs and kombucha. Also beers on tap and in the cooler. $$ B Br L f HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. One of the more unusual restaurant spaces in town, Hammerheads is also one of the hippest. Adam Burress and Chase Murcerino, who share owner

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and chef duties, fire up their BBQ smoker streetside, and fans far and wide flock to the semibasement space on the edge of Germantown to partake of pulled pork and beef brisket, pork and lamb ribs, roasted duck sandwiches, pork belly BLTs and soft shell crab tacos. $ D h HARD ROCK CAFÉ 424 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs at the local branch of this popular shrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, but you’ll have no com plaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ L D hpfe HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd., 459-9939. There are a lot of places to quaff craft beers in town, but Holy Grale’s frequently changing draft selection is among the most esoteric. Couple that with the seasonally adapted menu of chef Joshua Lehman and the oddity of being housed in a renovated church (the upstairs bar is aptly named “The Choir Loft”) and you have a unique dining and drinking experience. $ L D he JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ D pf JAZZYBLU 815 W. Market St., 992-3243. The basement space at Glassworks that formerly housed The Jazz Factory is bopping again with regularly scheduled live jazz performances Thurs. - Sun. nights, and southern comfort food style lunch buffets Tues. - Fri. $ L D hpe LOOP 22 2222 Dundee Rd., 882-3279. This is the third venture from the guys at Hammerheads and Game.

Eric Morris in the kitchen, serving an eclectic menu, including rotisserie chicken and duck, braised short rib spring rolls, rosemary pesto pasta with grilled prawns and wild mushroom polenta.

Along with a full bar. Much fun. $$ D hpfe MAJID’S ST. MATTHEWS 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 6182222. Long-time restaurateur and top-notch host Majid Ghavami’s current venture, in the heart of St. Matthews, offers a Mediterranean-American menu.

The wine bar serves small plates, and focuses on American wines and an eclectic list from unusual locations — Lebanon, Israel, Greece and the Balkans. $$$ Br D pfe MANNY & MERLE 122 W. Main St., 290-8888.

Tony Palombino’s latest addition to his eclectic local empire serves up contemporary Mexican street food (Mod Mex) and a funky bar menu that highlights an impressive collection of tequilas and Bourbons. A major C&W music venue, with live acts most nights of the week, featuring Nashville bands as well as local talent tending to the rawer, honkytonk end of the country spectrum. $ L D hpe 7 MARKETPLACE RESTAURANT 651 S. Fourth St., 625-3001. Up front in the old Kentucky Theater is a deli and gourmet grocery. Behind the circular bar is the serene dining room, with a central hearth, and beyond that, a large enclosed patio. Chef Dallas McGarity’s seasonal menu cleverly fuses culinary concepts: crawfish arancini, duck confit ragout and curry-seared scallops, for instance. $$ L D hpf MATCH CIGAR BAR 207 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 725-7475. This classy cigar and Bourbon lounge specializes in elegant cocktails, premium cigars and offers a small menu including Bourbonmarinated steak, grilled chicken, burgers and cheeses. $$ D p MUSSEL & BURGER BAR 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 384-4834. Guaca Mole’s Fernando Martinez and his family stretch their ambitions and imaginations with an affordable “American bistro concept” featuring mussels with six different sauces, and 12 clever twists on burgers. Located in a strip mall 54 Summer 2014 www.foodanddine.com

just beyond the Hurstbourne Lane -Taylorsville Road intersection, it is worth seeking out, both for the food and for the comfy bistro atmosphere created in the cavernous space tricked out by former owners. L D hpe NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770, 2116 Bardstown Rd., 690-4161. Both locations of this long-time favorite offer hearty and unusual breakfasts, satisfying lunches and dinners. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas and interesting entrées, it’s an appealing, affordable place to dine. $$ B Br L D hpfe OLD 502 WINERY 120 S. Tenth St., 540-5650. The wine here is made on site, from grapes grown primarily in central Kentucky. The tasting room serves locallymade Kentucky proud snack food to enhance the wine, so stop in at lunch or after work, as well as weekends, to sample their wares. A large event space caters to parties and receptions. $$ L D hpe OLIVE LEAF BISTRO 130 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 913-1252. Stylish new restaurant nestled on the banks of the Ohio in Jeffersonville draws on the rich food traditions of countries ringing the Mediterranean. Its menu serves everything from tagines to chicken Forestiere, oysters Rockefeller to eggplant Napoleon, and Greek salad to paella. All served with a view of the Ohio. $$$ L D hpf RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands. Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu, with Cuban, Jamaican, Greek and Middle Eastern dishes.

Moderate prices, a weekend brunch and late night hours add to the draw. $$ L D hpf 7 RIVER CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 945-9463. Ten of owners Gary and Melissa Humphrey’s wines medaled in the June 2011 Indy International Wine Competition. Their honest, straightforward wines and Italian-inspired menu, featuring brink-oven pizzas, draw appreciative crowds. Don’t miss the crab cakes with black-eyed pea salsa. $$ Br L D e SIDEBAR AT WHISKEY ROW 129 N. Second St., 384-1600. On the west side of Whiskey Row, above Troll Pub under the Bridge, Sidebar focuses on burgers, Bourbon and beer, a potentially boffo combo for those going to or coming from the Yum! Center across the street. The emphasis is on craft cocktails served alongside a short but bold selection of sandwiches, appetizers and desserts. $$ L D hpe THE SILVER DOLLAR 1761 Frankfort Ave., 259-9540.

The old firehouse in Clifton is now a honky tonk bar and restaurant, the music (all on vinyl) focused on the “Bakersfield sound” — a fusion of Mexicali and American roots music. The southern country-style menu with sophisticated nuances has been an immediate hit. Choose from more than 80 Kentucky Bourbons, ryes, tequila and mescal, but no “foreign whiskey” like Scotch. $$ Br L D hpf VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 708-1850. In the heart of Anchorage at the old train station is this two-level Euro-village inspired concept. On the upper level, a French bistro a la Moulin Rouge with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs at The Sea Hag the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food-style menu is served lunch and dinner with weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with more than 50 craft and import choices accompany 55 Bourbons to boot. $$$ Br L D hpf

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544.

This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ L

THE ANCHORAGE CAFÉ 11505 Park Rd., 708-1880.

Upscale Anchorage has an eminently suitable place for breakfast, lunch and brunch — as well as a takeout bakery offering quiches, scones, pies, and cookies. For breakfast try oatmeal or toast and jam; for lunch, a soup, salad or sandwich, all made with local seasonal ingredients. $ B Br L D f AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite before hitting the casino.

Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ B L D hp ATLANTIC NO. 5 605 W. Main St., 883-3398.

Michael Trager-Kusman, owner of Rye, was inspired by the name of long-ago iron workers’ lunch boxes when he named his new West Main Street place, a mashup of a deli and a bistro. The menu plays off what was offered by their favorite New York places: sandwiches, salads, rotisserie chicken, smoked fish, pork, lamb, house-made charcuterie and bagels at breakfast. $ B Br L pfe BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. Tables are always at a premium at this popular Crescent Hill breakfast and lunch spot. And its artisanal bakery continues to produce hearty European-style breads that have set a gold standard on restaurant tables and in better grocery stores around town. $$ B L f BLUEGRASS CAFÉ 3819 Bardstown Rd., 459-2320.

This little lunch spot in the Derby City Antique Mall in Buechel has a daily hot table buffet line plus a menu of soups, salads and sandwiches. On Sundays it offers a brunch buffet with a choice of breakfast and luncheon dishes. $ Br L BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. In the midst of the booming West Main Street arts and museum district, this lunch spot offers standard American café fare. $ L CAFÉ 27 145 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 948-9999.

This lunch and dinner spot adds to downtown New Albany’s rapidly evolving and eclectic dining scene.

The nighttime menu emphasizes grilled dishes, while the lunch list includes a variety of sandwiches and unique salads, such as a roasted corn and steak salad and a bacon Bibb. $$$ L D hp CAFÉ AT MAIN STREET 10317 Watterson Trl., 2675111. This bright, lively lunch place moved into the city from Bullitt County trailing loyalists and drawing new fans. A typical day of specials might include tomato cheddar or butterbean soup, asparagus and chicken quiche, warm brie spinach salad and a selection of house-made pies and cakes. $ B Br L CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Brownsboro Rd., 894-8929.

Cuisine from around the world is featured at this East End neighborhood café, featuring homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ B L CAFÉ MONTAGU 1930 Bishop Ln., 451-6357. This breakfast and lunch place provides breakfasts and lunches mainly to the denizens of the Watterson Towers office complex. Home-style cooking, daily specials (meatloaf, pastas) and quick service keep the wheels of business rolling. $ B L CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot, owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as potato-chip-crusted whitefish, specialty pizzas, and lemon-tarragon chicken with orzo. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $ L D f CITY CAFÉ 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 500 S. Preston St., 852-5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ L

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CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 896-1488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $$ L D CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stores and maintains every bit of old-fashioned charm.

Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers.

Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ B L f CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg IN, 246-9339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to local Hoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Full breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A full range of standard lunch sandwiches, with Reubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials.

Homemade soups and salads, too. $ B Br L f DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central Ave., (Kentucky Derby Museum) 637-1111. Lunch served year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such regional favorites as meaty burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ L pf EARTH FRIENDS CAFÉ AND COFFEE BAR 829 E. Market St., 749-8911. The emphasis at both locations is on vegetarian and vegan sandwiches, soups and salads, with a small “omnivore” selection. $ B Br L EMMA LOU’S CAFÉ 1327 Bardstown Rd., 456-4500.

This long-time ladies’ lunch favorite, in an attractive old house on Bardstown Road, offers interesting, pleasant lunch fare, with very appealing dessert choices. $$ L ERMIN’S BAKERY & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 6356960. This popular bakery attracts crowds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted by French-style breads and pastries. $ B L HIGHLAND MORNING 1416 Bardstown Rd., 3653900. You can order breakfast anytime at this Highlands space, with an eclectic menu that also encompasses brunch, burgers, soul food, Southern dishes and vegetarian fare as well. $ B L D h 7 J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistro-style alternative to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $$ B L pf JACKKNIFE CAFÉ 1201 Story Ave., 883-3228. Cellar Door Chocolates maven Erika Chavez-Graciano has branched out into the restaurant world with a little brunch (late breakfast — they’ll open at 10 a.m.) and lunch café inside the trendy Butchertown Market building. You will find breakfast biscuits with cheese and ham, yogurt and granola, salads, soups and sandwiches like grilled mortadella with cheddar and mustard, benedictine and smoked salmon and Brie with pears and spinach. $$ B L p KAYROUZ CAFÉ 3801 Willis Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ L D f LA PECHE GOURMET TO GO AND CAFÉ 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. Kathy Cary is returning to her roots with this newest version of her popular gourmet take-out counter, reinstalled in the private dining room in the corner of her restaurant, Lilly’s.

The menu features “tried and true” dishes like grilled chicken pasta, burgers, vegetarian sandwiches, chicken salad, “lots of great produce, affordable cuts of meat” and a dessert case that always includes strawberry pie. $$ B L D

MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703.

Kristin Fults, former partner in Bluegrass Burgers, took over the operation of this cozy breakfast and lunch spot in March. The menu’s current balance of hearty vegetarian and meat-friendly options will remain, but the facilities are getting some modern touches. There’s a new spacious outdoor patio and the main bathroom was recently overhauled.

Breakfast is served all day and Sunday breakfast is coming by June. $ B L f NONNIE’S KITCHEN 11601 Main St., Middletown, 245-4411. Nonnie’s Kitchen is one of the attractions of picturesque downtown Middletown for ladies who lunch. A mother-son team runs the pleasant space in an old house, serving a menu of soups, salads, sandwiches and desserts that delight a devoted clientele. $ L f ORANGE CLOVER KITCHEN & MORE 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-1005. Find quick breakfast and lunch items here, such as the Orange Clover muffin: poppy seed and blood orange flavors with a blood orange drizzle, as well as a cupcake version with cranberries. Two soup specials offered every day out of a recipe rotation of 75 possibilities won’t result in many repeats. $ B L PLUMP PEACOCK BAKERY AND CAFÉ 11601 Main St., Middletown 681-3814. After selling her bakery items at farmers markets around town, owner Liz Wingfield has settled into Middletown. Expect sandwiches, high tea and a full range of bakery items. $ B L PROSPECT CAFÉ 9550 US Hwy. 42, 708-2151.

Conveniently located at the intersection of River Rd. and Hwy. 42, stop in for hot sandwiches (Cuban, Reuben, grilled Italian, bourbon BBQ) or cold deli stuff — club sandwich, egg, tuna or chicken salad, or soups like chicken and dumplings.

Chess bars and banana pudding too. $ L QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ B L f RIVERSIDE CAFÉ 700 W. Riverside Dr. (Sheraton Hotel), Jeffersonville IN, 284-6711. The breakfast room and bar of the Sheraton Riverside. Breakfast served until 10:30 a.m. Unwind at the bar at night. $$ B pf SHERRY’S CORNER CAFÉ 1051 Market St., Charlestown IN, 256-3722. Breakfast and lunch are served at this archetypical family eatery specializing in fresh, home-style cooking. $ L STRICKER’S CAFÉ 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 218-9882. Family style restaurant serving hearty soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, melts and breakfast too, in suburban Jeffersonville. $ B L SUPERCHEF’S BREAKFAST AND LUNCH 307 Wallace Ave., 896-8008. Darnell “Superchef” Ferguson, he of the pop-up breakfast concept, has taken over and expanded the space at the rear or The Ruby Slipper, and now serves lunch too.

Chocolate mousse pancakes? Roasted red pepper grits cakes? Blueberry pancakes with marscapone?

He’s got it covered. $ B L THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. You can see the traffic on East Broadway from The Café’s serene walled patio. Choose from an eclectic breakfast and lunch menu, including old favorites like tomato dill soup and chicken salad. Or eat inside and be amused at the yard-sale look of mismatched furniture and chandeliers and doorways to nowhere, reminiscent of its former location in an antique mall. $ B Br L f THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 8932324. For more than 25 years this St. Matthews tradition has delighted ladies who lunch, hungry students who munch, and just about everyone else with their sandwiches, pasta salads and tasty desserts. It caters parties with almost 50 choices of

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music 7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

appetizers, party sandwiches, dips, cheese rings and crostini. $ L f THE CHEDDAR BOX TOO 109 Chenoweth Ln., 896-1133. Cheddar Box owner Nancy Tarrant has extended her presence with a café just across the parking lot. Look for the same tasty salads, soups and desserts that have made her take-away business so popular. $ B L VERBENA CAFÉ 10639 Meeting St., 425-0020.

This Norton Commons eatery is open early for breakfast and serves hearty lunches till midafternoon, but you can order breakfast or lunch at any of those hours. $$ B L f WAYCOOL CAFÉ 120 W. Broadway, 582-2241.

Wayside Christian Mission trains people here in its community re-entry program in restaurant service and management. Breakfasts for under $5, a lunch buffet: is $8 for unlimited trips. A dinner menu too.

It’s a do-gooder place that serves good food. $ L D WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 6183449, 121 S. Floyd St., 690-5925. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can now be found at this growing mini-chain’s fourth outlet. $ B Br L p WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 581-8561 Caterer/restaurateur Susan Hershberg adds a bakery and café operation to her local empire. Baker Diana Rushing makes artisanal breads, scones and croissants, sandwiches and paninis, side salads and lots more. $ B L YAFA CAFÉ 22 Theater Sq., 561-0222. $ L D

hf

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4124666. This franchise concept from the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ D hp CHARLESTOWN TRAIN STATION SEAFOOD 1041 Highway 62, Charlestown IN, 256-4200. A family friendly place with outdoor picnic-table seating and the kind of familiar fried fillets everyone likes. $ L D pf CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition.

The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. And now open until 8 p.m. most nights. $ L D EAGLE LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Eagle Lake, a simple, downhome eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County.

Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their stocked pay-to-fish lake. Note though, it’s not possible to have your catch fried for dinner. $$ L D f THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993.

Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. And on weekends the space morphs into Café Beignet, serving hearty breakfasts and New Orleans-style beignets. $ Br L D f THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188, 11519 Shelbyville Rd., 409-4296. The original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery remains justly popular for its www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2014 55

quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ L D f FISHERY STATION 5610 Outer Loop, 968-8363. $$ LD HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474.

This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to find. Its oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ L D f J J FISH & CHICKEN 1701 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2523. This Jeffersonville restaurant offers up fried perch and catfish, shrimp and oysters, chicken dinners, Philly cheese steaks and gyros.

Italian beef sandwiches too, and the usual sides, nicely done. $ L D h JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ L D hpf KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ L D hpfe 7 MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925 and remains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ L D f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open

kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ L D hpf PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633.

If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer or two, with no frills, this southside tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ L D fe RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucketof-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ L D hpf SHARK’S FISH & CHICKEN 2001 S. Seventh St., 6372999. Several types of crunchy-breaded fried fish — white fish, shrimp, catfish, salmon — to choose from, as well as wings and side dishes like fried mushrooms and fried okra. Finish with appealing desserts such as chocolate cake, pineapple upside down cake or banana pudding. $ L D h

BRAZEIROS CHURRASCARIA 450 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 2908220. This Knoxvillebased company has opened its first satellite location downtown. A churrascaria works like this: You choose drinks, visit the salad bar and await visits from “gaucho chefs” who bring yard-long skewers of grilled meats (beef, lamb, sausage) to your table for slicing — as much as you wish — along with side dishes. $$$$ L D pf CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-2298, 6325 River Rd., 3847466. Buck’s owner Curtis Rader’s idea to cook steaks and sides in cast iron pans at moderate prices hit such a popular nerve that he opened two more

locations on the Kentucky side of the river. The ambience of all his places is upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music,” Rader promises. $$$ D hpf CATTLEMAN’S ROADHOUSE 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-7623, 139 Historical Trail, 543-3574.

These local outlets of the small regional chain offer mid-priced beef choices and starters such as fried pickle chips and jalapeño poppers, grilled chicken, salmon, and plenty of sandwiches. $$$ L D hp DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli Ave., 897-7077. Loyal Louisville beefeaters continue to fill up this 28year-old St. Matthews steakhouse, with its brick walls and beamed ceilings. Any red meat enthusiast would know to order the filet or Porterhouse, but only regulars know the glories of something called green phunque. $$$$ D hp 7 EDDIE MERLOT’S PRIME AGED BEEF 455 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 584-3266. The sumptuous renovation of the space at the corner of Fourth and Muhammad Ali has resulted in one of the largest dining spaces in town. The Ft. Wayne-based small chain with big ambitions boasts glittering mosaic artwork, a handsome bar opening onto Fourth Street, and luxurious seating in secluded nooks and corners. The menu focuses on high end steaks, well-prepared seafood and seasonal specials. $$$$ L D hpe JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 5840102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ D hpe LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577, 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9789, 1540 Alliant Ave., 266-6009. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ L D hp LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5800, 4813 Outer Loop, 969-9790. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ L D hp MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This belowground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ D hp OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 8954329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ D hp PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 8969234. A local favorite for fifty years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets. Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. $$$$ D pf PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 964-6117. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ L D RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best

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RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’s Chris the best restaurant. It serves an excellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ D hpe RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088. This North Carolina-based chain offers family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buffet features more than 150 items. $$ L D STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ D hp TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy.

(Green Tree Mall), Clarksville IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy., 448-0705, 6460 Dutchmans Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ L D hp

A NICE RESTAURANT 3129 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 280-9160, 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have launched two more branches. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ B L APPLEBEE’S (6 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ L D hp ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 239-2200. The entrepreneur who created Texas Roadhouse and Buckhead’s is back with a concept that’s both old and new — a lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ L D hp BIG FOUR BURGERS + BEER 134 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 913-4967. The name reflects its location in the shadows of the Big Four pedestrian bridge linking Louisville and Jeff. Diners can choose from a selection of gourmet burgers and 21 beer taps.

Pop in downstairs for a fast, casual lunch or trundle upstairs for full-service seating and a view of the river. $$ L D hpfe B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd.(Oxmoor Mall), 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Mall. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ L D hp 7 BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln. (Crown Plaza Hotel), 367-2251. $$$ L D hp BLUEGRASS BURGERS 3334 Frankfort Ave., 6146567. Four women restaurateurs have partnered to offer a gourmet burger concept. Choose your burger — grass-fed Kentucky beef or bison, tuna or veggie (or grilled chicken, cheese steak or franks) — and then head for the topping bar. $ L D f BRICKHOUSE TAVERN & TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-3182. Brickhouse, a Houston-based chain, has upgraded its image with an increased focus on food. Serving brunch, lunch and dinner, with a half-dozen local beers on tap, and an unusual menu of beer cocktails. $$ L D hpf

BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN 284-2919, 10206 Westport Rd., 339-0808. The deck of the riverfront location in Jeffersonville, with its view across the river, is a great place for a lazy summer meal, when the familiarity of allAmerican fare like meat loaf, pot pies, steak or ribs and a couple of cold ones is all you want. The big square bars in all three locations, with multiple TV screens, make for excellent sports viewing as well. $$ L D hpf BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132.

This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ L D h f 7 CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’s quick and casual secondfloor dining alternative, this spacious venue offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ L D hp CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ Br L D pfe CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure! Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $ L D hp CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville IN, 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ B Br L D pe CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ L D hpf CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 3018181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ L D hp 7 CHOCOLATE MARTINI BAR 1106 Lyndon Ln. (Westport Village), 384-1384. This unique combination of a crêperie, martini bar, sandwich, lunch and dinner spot and dessert bar allows you to get a banana split crêpe and a crème brûlée martini, a Reuben or fried baloney sandwich in the same sitting. Desserts and ice cream can be ordered to go. $$$ L D hpfe CHOP SHOP SALADS 436 W. Market St., 589-2467, 126 Breckinridge Ln., 384-4252. The two-handed mezzalunas rock steady as the line cooks chop up lettuce, vegetables and meats into hearty salads or wraps. Mostly a to-go place with limited seating, the steady lunchtime crowds attest that office workers see a need for fresh light lunch fare. $ L D COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 583-9165.

The restored 137-year-old building has gone through some recent renovations, including a makeover on reality TV. The result is a remodeled secluded patio, revamped dining room and an eclectic menu that plays off standards in a fun way: chicken thigh sliders, a Hot Brown with a Brie mornay and pepper jam, panzanella salad and a whole crispy catfish with Thai chili sauce. $$$ L D pf

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music 7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

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CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001.

When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain a popular East End spot. $ L D f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526, 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. Whether you drop in at the downtown location across from the Palace, or scoot out to the Harrod’s Creek outlet, you will find fine fish sandwiches and pub grub, and absorb some of the nostalgia associated with this longtime favorite. $ Br L D hpf

up vegetarian fare in the new town center of University of Louisville. The menu has a pan-Asian focus, with noodles and fried rice and stir fries, as well as smoothies and bubble tea. $ L D HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 365-3388, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403, 303 W. Cardinal Blvd., 708-1818. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinks with a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ L D f 7

DECKERS GRILLED SANDWICHES 2350 Greene Way, 491-3114. A burgeoning chain launched by White Castle sells hot soups, pressed sandwiches (the four cheese and bacon Decker sounds great) and desserts, as well as salads at affordable prices.

No “sliders” here, but comparable prices. $ L D h

HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-9464.

Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standing reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ L D hpfe

FAMOUS MIKE’S STEAK & LEMONADE 3052 Wilson Ave., 618-0102. At first a curious culinary combination — steak and lemonade — but this little nearWest End place is a gem offering an eclectic range of quick comfort foods: chicken gizzard baskets, pizza rolls, cheese steaks, burgers and subs. $ L D h

INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. IHOP fans can choose to go out to the East End or across the river to satisfy their jones for the national chain’s inimitable food. $ B L D h

FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany IN, 944-9958, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshly-grilled burgers, big, smoky Kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries that are out of this world and a cheery rock’n’roll sensibility. $ L D

JOE & KATHY’S PLACE 5408 Valley Station Rd., 9355323. This family-run, home-cooking-from-scratch place has developed a loyal following among the Valley Station locals. The menu supplies expected standards like fried chicken, biscuits and gravy, but contemporary offerings like vegetable panini and pork tenderloin sandwich with pesto mayo are available, too. $ B L D

GAME 2295 Lexington Rd., 618-1772. Are you dying for a nice burger made from ground antelope? Or maybe wild boar? How about just a juicy lamb burger? The guys behind Hammerhead’s have all those covered, and more. Build your own with bun choices ranging from brioche to pretzel to Kaiser roll. Toppings include smoked truffle mayo, cranberry-jalapeño jam, and pesto — you get the idea. $$ D f GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market St., 749-7100. Housed in a former service station in NuLu, Garage Bar serves up draft and bottled craft beers, Bourbons, seasonal cocktails and wine, pizzas from a woodfired brick oven and Southern specialties, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. The ham flight is not to be missed. $$$ D hpf GATSBY’S ON FOURTH 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3200. The casual dining space on the first floor of the Seelbach has been renovated and renamed to reflect its connection of the hotel to F. Scott Fitzgerald, and re-conceived to be a full restaurant, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Dinner and lunch menus serve soups, salads, sandwiches and a few entrées, such as sautéed trout with pickled fennel, pesto-crusted chicken, and skirt steak with celery root puree. $$ B L D hp GAVI’S RESTAURANT 222 S. Seventh St., 583-8183.

This family-owned eatery has been around for decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Russian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Stroganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ B L GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ B Br L D 7 GRADY’S BURGERS AND WINGS 3825 Taylor Blvd., 361-1106. The name says most of what you need to know. Ten flavors of wings, breaded, fried and sauced.

The hot wings and the honey BBQ are the biggest sellers. Deli sandwiches and gyros too. $ L D f GREEN LEAF NATURAL VEGETARIAN BISTRO 309 W. Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. Green Leaf serves

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JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going strong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually grown from a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings.

Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ L D hpfe KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646.

Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $$ L D h KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726.

This family-owned tavern has been a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978. Kern’s offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers, as well as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ L D pf LEGENDS Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. The hot and cold short orders are served up with riverboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well-stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts. $$ L D hpe MAGDALENA’S 1108 Copperfield Dr., Georgetown IN, 501-5100. Longtime Corydon favorite Magdalena’s has moved to Georgetown, but it still offers the same savory pasta, seafood and well-crafted comfort foods regulars have enjoyed for years. $$ L D p MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 561-0024. $ B L MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588.

This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where Farmer Bob is folksy and country. This East End outlet has developed a following beyond those familiar with it from other locations. $$ B Br L D hpf THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433.

A popular spot in the urban neighborhood where the Highlands meet Germantown, The Monkey Wrench offers comfort food with a stylish spin, top flight music, a relaxed ambience and welcoming

service. A rooftop patio packs them in on warm evenings. $ L D hpfe MULLIGAN’S PUB AND GRILL 1801 Newburg Rd., 632-2818. Neighborhood institution Kaelin’s is gone, but Mulligans’ now holds down the fort. The beer list now includes BBC craft beers and Irish imports.

The menu is geared toward hearty sandwiches, pizza and steak and shrimp entrées. $$ L D hpf NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere, has expanded their craft beer selection. The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily. Coffee and desserts are always made fresh. Breakfast served until 2 p.m. $$ Br L D p NEW ALBANY ROADHOUSE 1702 Graybrook Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7777. $$ L D hp O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-andseafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ Br L D hp PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. This casual-dining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$ D

hp PHILLY STEAK & BURGER 1578 Bardstown Rd., 451-6768. What once was the funky Ray’s Monkey House is now a streamlined space with modern décor, open ceilings and a spiffy new back deck.

On the menu are Philly cheesesteaks, burgers (including veggie versions), wraps, four hot dog choices, salads and sides. $$ L D hpf QUAD CAFÉ 103 Quartermaster Ctr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-7823. Bistro dining in the always-changing Quadrangle Station in Jeffersonville. Expect a broad lineup of gourmet burgers, flat bread pizzas, an oyster bar on Friday and Saturday nights, daily lunch specials and a full bar. And now, in the adjoining space, Southern Indiana’s first J. Gumbo’s outlet as well.$ L Dpf RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ L D hpf RAISING CANE’S 10490 Westport Rd., 425-4040. A national chain with a single core product — chicken fingers. This replacement for the old Twister’s Custard brings simple and straightforward fried chicken finger combos and sandwiches with slaw and fries on the side. $ L D f RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001.

This Seattle-based chain serves up its well regarded “gourmet burgers” and trimmings in two East End locations. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ L D hpf ROOSTERS 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 590-3391, 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 883-1990.

With a wide footprint in Ohio, this Columbus-based wings-and-brews chain is now spreading its franchise wings across Indiana, West Virginia and Kentucky. Its four Louisville properties have gained popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings.$ L D hpf RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-5010. If

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ L D hp THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311.

The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eatery in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations from Generation X’ers to aging hippies. The owners are scaling back, though, and opening only on Fridays and Saturdays. $ D hp SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-2323. Fans of Sam Anderson’s steaks, chicken, pizza and pasta were distraught when his New Albany location was gutted by fire late last year. But he continues to operate in the Knobs, and work is underway to convert the Plantation Montrose site in Clarksville to a Sam’s. $$ L D hp

THAT PLACE ON GOSS 946 Goss Ave., 409-5409.

Located inside the Antique Mall in the old textile mill, That Place serves hearty and cleverly tweaked lunch fare and Sunday brunch. They are especially fond of their Meaty Jack, a meatloaf sandwich, grilled and topped with Jack cheese and their special sauce. Art on the walls is from friends at Mellwood Art Center, where owners Amy and William Enix initially started. $ Br L TOAST ON MARKET 620 E. Market St., 569-4099, 141 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 941-8582. On both sides of the river this breakfast and lunch favorite has gained a loyal following and tremendous word-of-mouth. Be prepared to wait for tables for weekend brunches. $ B Br L pf TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany IN, 944-9999.

Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ L D hp

SAM’S HOT DOG STAND 1991 Brownsboro Rd., 259-7587. Devoted fans speak highly of this little shop in lower Clifton. Substantial hotdogs and rave-worthy pulled pork BBQ at reasonable prices are drawing in happy customers. $ L D

TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ B L D h

SHONEY’S 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904, 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 423-6388. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ B L D

W.G. GRINDERS 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 290-6073.

This Ohio-based sandwich and soup chain offers Grinders (what I always called “subs,” way back east), strombolis, salads, pasta and personal-sized pizzas are among the choices. $ $ B L D 7

SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 9980 Linn Station Rd., 429-5773, 4024 Dutchmans Ln., 721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-4020. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ L D h

THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ L D hf

SMASHBURGER 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 326-4141, 312 S. Fourth St., 583-1500. A growing chain located mostly in the West and the South now has two Kentucky locations serving made-to-order Angus beef burgers, and is looking to open up to four more locations. $ L D f THE SPREAD BUFFET Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. Paula Deen’s name has been excised from the entrance, but the concept remains the same: a sumptuous spread of all the things you like and more offered in an all-you-caneat format. $$$ L D STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bardstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr., 326-3625, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ B L D h TACO PUNK 736 E. Market St., 584-8226. Gabe Sowder, formerly of 610 Magnolia, set out on his own serving funky tacos at the Douglass Loop Farmer’s Market.

But now the Iron Chef alum (he was part of Edward Lee’s 2010 winning team) has taken over the old Toast on Market space to continue his exploration of everyone’s favorite “Mexican” food. House-made tortillas packed with ingredients ranging from traditional to the unique — duck, lamb and chorizo — make up the bill of fare. $ L D h f 7 TGI FRIDAY’S 416 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ L D hpf

ZAXBY’S 2740 Allison Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 920-0080, 807 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 742-8600, 5025 Mud Ln., 632-1400, 2870 Technology Ave., New Albany IN, 725-7484, 10715 Dixie Hwy., 271-6990. They have been all around us out in the state, but now Louisville and Southern Indiana have their own Zaxby’s, the casual dining chain that cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wings and fingerz — that sort of thing. $ L D h

BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Brownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ B L D h BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitable place in the West End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all homecooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ L D CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The chili and the bean soup are particularly recommended. $ L D pf THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg IN, 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ L D CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ L D h

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COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ L COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Longtime neighborhood fixture Cottage Inn has a bright new look, and continues happily doling out the kind of excellent down-home food it has served for more than 70 years. $ L D D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty breakfasts bring droves to this classic greasy spoon. Saturday morning hours are sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’s is a hard place to beat. $ B L D DAISY MAE’S 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany IN, 9446237. Daisy Mae’s offers southern food and hospitality. The menu includes fried chicken and cod, meatloaf, mashed potatoes, collards and pinto bean soup every day. Look for daily specials that include a regularly rotating fruit cobbler and red velvet cake. $ L D f DASHA BARBOURS SOUTHERN BISTRO 3825 Bardstown Rd., 882-2081. This Buechel place certainly gives the “bistro” concept a down-home Southern twist. Fried fish, a vegetable plate combined from of three sides choices, burgers, pork chop sandwich, and, of course, fried chicken. Sides include sweet potato casserole studded with pecans, fried corn on the cob and collard greens. $$ L D DAVE & PEG’S COPPER KETTLE 276 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 256-4257. $ B L D DRE’LYNNS SOUL FOOD KITCHEN 5019 Poplar Level Rd., 968-7899. $$ L D FOOD 4 UR SOUL 612 S. Fifth St., 614-6363. This corner space at Fifth and Chestnut offers up soulful favorites: fried catfish, rib tips, pork chops (grilled, fried, or smothered), sweet potato casserole, fried mac and cheese, and fried bologna sandwiches. $$ L D FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ L D FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 448-8044. Long-time fans of Jay’s Cafeteria (including politicians and national entertainers) are no longer bereft. Jay’s former owners serve up Southern Soul food in Shively at family-friendly prices. Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $LD FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 883-1462. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ L D GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 5362 Dixie Hwy., 4476660, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville IN. 258-2540.

Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ B L D HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-3320. This chain serves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ B L D INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970 Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8980. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ L D h

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KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $LDh KUM’S KAFE 4125 Preston Hwy., 964-6336. Crispy fried chicken and fried catfish, as well as daily Asian specialties. $ L LE BOSSIER CAFÉ 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 208-9291. The Southern home-style menu shows influence of Creole cuisine, but the restaurant has made news initially for its commitment to representation by United Food and Commercial Workers Union. $ L D MISS C’S KITCHEN & PANTRY 1319 Story Ave., 759-1085, 308 W. Chestnut St., 992-3166. You will find traditional recipes using locally-sourced foods, such as pimento cheese made with Kenny’s white cheddar and tuna salad using the recipe from Stewart’s Orchid Room at both locations. $$ L NANA’S COUNTRY KITCHEN 5300 Cane Run Rd., 384-6525. When you want home-style cooking, you will want it like it is served here. Breakfast all day, lunch and dinner too. The regulars like the meatloaf and the chicken fried steak. $ B L D O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites, available from breakfast to dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $ B L D hp ROOSTER CREEK 5637 Outer Loop, 365-3443. A family-owned and family-friendly place making scratch traditional southern family dishes. The ribs and two sides is the most expensive item on the menu at $12.95. Look for catfish too, and collards on the side choices. Daily $6 lunch specials. $ B L D SHELIA’S SOUTHERN STYLE CUISINE 365-3443, 4773 Fox Run Rd., Buckner, 602-0101. Both locations of this new restaurant company feature folksy, down-home hospitality and Southern comfort food. Tie in to big portions of cleverly named menu items such as the Pig Pen (biscuits and gravy), the Gone Fishin’ fish basket, the Red Neck filet mignon (meatloaf wrapped in bacon), and its signature dessert, the Cow Pie. $ L D 7 SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. This Smoketown institution draws hungry locals as well as celebrities in town hungry for the soul food of their youth. BBQ ribs, and hot-water cornbread cooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chicken wings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley Mae Beard’s spice rack — salt and pepper. $ L D SUNDAY’S HOME COOKING & BBQ 701 Algonquin Pkwy., 716-3074. You can go up to the takeout window here and order the fixin’s for Sunday dinner any time. Fried chicken, long-cooked beans and greens, mac and cheese and BBQ ribs, rib tips and pulled pork. Chicken wings, fried catfish and whiting too, plus sweet potato pie for dessert. Takeaway only. $ D WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800.

A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round.

Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ B L WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery store houses a delicious secret: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfort food. Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $ B L

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2667. This is cafeteria-style dining done very

well. They serve up the standard steam table meatand-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ L D THE BISTRO 3701 Frankfort Ave., 714-5586. A gem hidden away in The Olmsted, on the Masonic Home grounds in St. Matthews. This spot has earned terrific word-of-mouth buzz. Soups, sandwiches, salads, pastas are the mainstay of the menu, with a four-item lunch buffet that changes weekly. $ B Br L D f CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli offers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-andsalad bar, and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic creation. $ L DOWNHOME CAFETERIA 2605 Rockford Ln., 882-2510. Just what the name implies — homey comfort food dished up from a hot table. Salad, coleslaw, deviled eggs, beans (green, baked and pinto), corn and creamy mashed potatoes. Baby back ribs and daily specials like smothered pork chops, liver and onions and salmon croquettes on Friday. $$ L D HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Story Ave., 583-0437. Doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, they attract customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ B L D LANCASTER’S CAFETERIA 408 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-4200. Troy Lancaster, the grandson of Southern Indiana catering king Tommy Lancaster, recalls the family’s culinary heritage with this family-friendly buffet-style cafeteria. $ L D

THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275.

On the ground floor a 60-seat restaurant and 30-seat lounge. On the second floor is the 70-seat Bard’s Town Theatre home to a resident troupe dedicated to producing new works from Kentucky playwrights and beyond, to other theatre, poetry and musical acts from around the country. Food and beverage service, but it’s not a dinner theater. $$ D hpfe DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes. The expansive seasonal buffet offerings have fans returning show after show. $$$$ L D pe HOWL AT THE MOON 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 562-9400. What’ll they think of next?

How about a nightclub featuring a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept?

You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ D hpfe INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790.

“Awesome dining, extreme fun, where family fun hits maximum overdrive” is the promise at this giant dining and entertainment venue. It’s not just for kids: an upscale menu in a signature dining room is at the center of it all. $$ L D hp JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$$ L D pf MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ L D p

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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ACHILLES PIZZA 1730 Williamsburg Sq., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8882. $$ L D h ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $$ L D ANGIO’S RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 4515454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $$ L D ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4771 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-to-order pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $$ L D h ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-9805.

A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $$ L D h ARNO’S PIZZA 3912 Bardstown Rd., 384-8131.$$ L D BEARNO’S PIZZA (12 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 12 locations. $$ L D h BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 9355540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ L D h BOOMBOZZ FAMOUS PIZZA 3400 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090. This handsome space at the corner of Frankfort and Cannons Lane is another idiosyncratic link in the Boombozz chain. The taphousestyle menu of pastas and sandwiches along with award-winning pies carves its own niche with bottled beer exclusively. $$ B Br L D hf BOOMBOZZ PIZZA BISTRO 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. Boombozz wins praise for exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style fare. Tony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-style specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ L D hp BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & TAP HOUSE 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 913-4171. The Boombozz Pizza empire has expanded in concept, and the menu now extends into appetizers, sandwiches and pasta, and 21 craft beers on tap. The Highlands location boasts one of the only “frost bars” in the area — a refrigerated rail designed to keep your brew cool. $$ L D hpf BORROMEO’S PIZZA 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 9687743. Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $$ L D h CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ L D pf 7 CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ L D CHEEZY’S PIZZA 801 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8500. Fans of the former Tubby’s Pizza and owner Tubby Muncy can smile again. He’s back in the kitchen in a little local pizza joint just east of

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downtown J’ville, serving up well crafted traditional pies whole or by the slice. $$ L D h CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfort Ave., 893-3730.

One of the originators of “Louisville style” of pizza, with additional toppings placed over the cheese.

The venerable Clifton’s Pizza appeals with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with grown-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. $$ L D hpe COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3730 Frankfort Ave., 7428200. The coal-fired oven bakes at 1000 degrees F, charring and crisping the crust in 4 minutes. The dough rises for three days, making for a lighter, more developed crust. Topping are fresh, regionallysourced, with specialty concepts. Look for local craft beers and house-made soups and salads in addition to pizzas. $$ L D hpf DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1567 S. Shelby St., 635-7994. $$ L D h DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 618-3424, 917 Baxter Ave., 614-8424. With a second location now, Highlands’ as well as St. Matthews’ residents can savor pizza by the slice, as well as by the mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilled sandwiches, salads, wings, and queso sticks, and a good selection of domestic and import beers. $$ L D hpf 7 EAST OF CHICAGO PIZZA 12416 Shelbyville Rd., 254-0065. The Ohio-based take-out franchise offers deep-dish pies ranging from authentic Chicago-style to Buffalo chicken to Hawaiian to seven-layer vegetarian. Its PB&J dessert pizza is legendary in Ohio. $$ L D FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10619 Manslick Rd., 363-7551. $$ L D h FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555, 12216 Shelbyville Rd., 244-2500. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd. $$ L D h HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2454555. Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and cold beer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ L D h IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ LDh JET’S PIZZA 101 S. Hubbards Ln., 895-4655, 3624 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1700, 235 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-4440, 6523 Bardstown Rd., 239-0000.

Now with a fourth Louisville outlet, this Detroitbased chain offers sit-down service and carry-out.

The menu features eight crust flavors and some gourmet pizza options such as a BLT and chicken parmesan. $$ L D f JOHNNY BRUSCO’S PIZZA 10600 Meeting St., 7498400. This Kansas City chain’s fist foray into the area chose wisely in settling in Norton Commons.

There you can find New York style pies, subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D JOHNNY V’S 10509 Watterson Trail, 267-0900. $$ L D hp KENNA’S KORNER 4111 Murphy Ln., 426-8340. $$ L D he LITTLE CAESARS PIZZA (9 Locations) This Detroitbased pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ L D h LOUI LOUI’S AUTHENTIC DETROIT STYLE PIZZA 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 266-7599. Detroit style? It’s a fluffy-deep-crusted rectangular pie baked a good while to give the crust crispiness. Detroit native Michael Spurlock used to make road trips to satisfy

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a sick friend’s cravings, then made a study of it, and now brings it to the old Ferd Grisanti location in J’town. $$ L D hp e LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. Also known as Chubby Ray’s, this local pizzeria makes good, fresh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $$$ L D hpf LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. New York Citystyle pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, has been making inroads in River City, but Luigi’s was one of the first to offer in its authentic form here. $$ L MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $$ L D h MARCO’S PIZZA 2011 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-1144. A rapidly growing (300+) pizza chain from Toledo, Ohio, adds to the choices of takeout pies in New Albany. Ironically, its CEO lives in Louisville and commutes to Toledo. $$ L D h MELLOW MUSHROOM 3920 Shelbyville Rd., 4096874, 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-6112. This small pizza/calzone/hoagie/salad chain touts its stoner origins, as the chain’s name, and some of its offerings such as magic mushroom soup and Maui Wowie pizza, imply. Though a chain, each outlet tries to be funky in an individualistic, local way. $$ L D p 7 MIMO’S PIZZERIA 2708 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 945-7711. People move to the Knobs for its bucolic setting, but locals still crave their pizza fix.

Mimo’s provides that with daily specials, such as Buffalo pizza, calzones, heroes, wraps or salads.

Mangia, mangia! $$ L D p MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-5005, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920.

This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for more than 30 years. $$ L D NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. $$ L D h OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700, 10601 Fischer Park Dr., 657-5700.

This growing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, along with amusing appetizers (jalapeño cheese pretzels, Italian nachos), filling salads, sandwiches and burgers. Check out the imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ L D hp OLD SCHOOL NY PIZZA 12907 Factory Ln., 8821776. You want Sicilian-style pizza, just like they make in Brooklyn? You can get it in the Eastern suburbs near I-265. Top it with vegetables supplied by local farmers, or tie into a calzone and finish with gelato. $$ L D ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 454-2711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 110 W. Main St., 589-4900. Impellizzeri’s pizzas, massive pies loved for a generation, can now be scarfed down near the arena on Main, in addition to its Highlands and Brownsboro Road locations. $$$$ L D hpf PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-restaurant international

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chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made from quality ingredients in a straightforward style. $ L D h PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (11 Locations) $$ L D PAPALINOS 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 736-2700, Baxter Ave., 749-8515. Classically-trained pizzaiolo Allan Rosenberg now makes his crispy-crust New Yorkstyle pizzas with premium, made in-house toppings in two locations: the original Lower Highlands place and a new venue in the East End. You can get a whole pie or just a slice at both locations, but the Springhurst store has a small plates menu, a charcuterie room and full bar as well. $ L D h PERFETTO PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 426-4644.

Located in the old Slice of NY space off S. Hurstbourne Parkway, Perfetto carries on the New York style tradition: pies by the slice, just like on Flatbush Ave. Hand-tossed crust, all kinds of toppings, plus Italian sausage and meatball sandwiches. $$ L D PIZZA DONISI 1396 S. Second St., 213-0488.

Magnolia Bar & Grill, 213-0488. Popular with Old Louisville hipsters, the “Mag Bar” has long needed a nearby pizza joint. Now it has it and it’s owned by Danny Fitzgerald, impresario behind Mag Bar. Stop by or phone in for delivery, or get a pie while you quaff beer at Mag Bar. Get it by the slice or in whole artisan pies of 9-, 14- and 18-inches, along with appetizers, fries with curry ketchup, fried ravioli and more. $$ L D hf

SNAPPY TOMATO 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 4126205. $$ L D

pizzamaker moves across the river to fill the cravings of Hoosiers. $$$ D

SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 2905 Goose Creek Rd., 632-2832, 4001 Shelbyville Rd., 895-0755, 239 S. Fifth St., 749-0919, 8610 Dixie Hwy., 614-5300. This locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their massive pizza by the slice, has expanded to four locations. All are open until 5 a.m. nightly Wednesday through Saturday, offering Philly-style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ L D h

UNCLE MADDIO’S PIZZA JOINT 2011 Grinstead Dr., 690-8871. This small chain, from the guys behind Moe’s Southwest Grill, has settled in comfortably at the corner of Bardstown and Grinstead.

Order at the counter from a range of custom choices and your pizza gets delivered to your table. $$ L D

STUDIO PIZZA 1401 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville IN, 288-6600. Owner Steve Baldwin serves up Chicagostyle pie, calzones and other tipico Italiano fare, with a performance stage ready for pro performers or karaoke. $$ L D TEENA’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 785-4344.

Teena’s has taken over the long-standing Frolio’s Pizza building on the corner of Trevilian Way and Poplar Level Rd. The lunch buffet, with vegetable choices and three heat levels of chicken wings, in addition to pizza, gives this neighborhood pizza joint a bit of distinction. $$ L D hpf TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 949-3000. The long-time Louisville

VITO’S PIZZA 1919 S. Preston St., 634-1003. A little neighborhood pizza pub on the edge of Germantown has been serving up its signature pies to neighbors and commuters who pick up pies before they get on nearby I-65 to head home. $$ L D hp WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 225 State St., New Albany IN, 945-9425. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all five of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $$ L D hpfe ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ L D hpf

PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 2828286. The pizza is baked in a sturdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ L D PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $$ L D hpf PLEASURE RIDGE PIZZA AND SPORTS BAR 5603 Greenwood Rd., 933-7373. $$ L D hpf PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-0170. A small but growing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its first Louisville property on Shelbyville Road. Thin pizza by the slice and other Italian-American dishes are served in an attractive setting that’s a cut above fast food. $$ L D ROCKY’S PIZZA & PANINI 3022 Bardstown Rd., 690-8500. Need a quick lunch, and have a hankering for the classic Italian subs and pizzas that you have enjoyed for decades at Rocky’s? Now you can get them quick and to go at this counterservice only branch in the outer edge of the Highlands. $ L D hpf ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844. Rocky’s is reinventing itself by going back to its roots. Gone is the “Italian Grill” appellation, and back is the Sub Pub theme, along with a growing selection of craft and import beers and a select choice of Italian-American entrées. Go to enjoy a pizza, some baked ziti or chicken parmigiana and some hoppy draft. $ L D hpf ROSIE’S PIZZA 13829 English Villa Dr., 244-2484.

This Middletown pizzeria has been wowing customers for a while with its store-made crusts, and wide choice of toppings. Fans seem to go for the Whole Lot of Rosie, and the Hot Knots. $$ L D SAL’S PIZZA & WINGS 812 Lyndon Ln., 365-4700.

Pizza, calzones, chicken and salads join the food choices in the Lyndon strip mall that also houses other ethnic restaurants. $$ L D hpf SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 629 S. Fourth St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtown storefront offers good, standard pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $$ L D h f SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 496 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $$ L D h f

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goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ L D hf 321 DELI 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. The dining and drinks complex on the corner of Third and Main offers something for everyone. This is the deli component (the others are an ice cream shop and a bourbon bar), which strives to blend the look and feel of a New York deli with the charm of the South.

Lunch on nicely done sandwiches constructed from meats roasted in house, gourmet salads and sides to go. $ L D f ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patronize a carpet shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ L BABY D’S BAGELS & DELI 2009 Highland Ave., 365-3354. This Highlands deli serves steamed bagel sandwiches and wraps, made with housesmoked and roasted meats. Look for funky sandwich names and desserts such as chocolatecovered bacon. $ B L D h BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945.

The open flame at this counter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout.

Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ L D 7

EINSTEIN BROTHERS BAGELS 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 217-6046. Nothing beats a bagel and a schmear of cream cheese — unless it’s a bagel, a schmear, and a generous slab of lox. For those who don’t live on bagels, a good selection of soups, salads and sandwiches offer quick sustenance at this branch of the national chain. $ B L f THE FEED BAG 133 Breckenridge Ln., 896-1899.

The grilled salmon burger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, desserts top off the lunch-only schedule. $ L FIREHOUSE SUBS 215 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3653473. This national chain touts that they steam their meat and cheese sandwiches. Specialty subs carry out the Firehouse theme and the kids meals include a little fire helmet. $ L D FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI & PIZZERIA 4113 Murphy Ln., 243-9005. This shop offers Italian-style deli sandwiches and pizza, plus home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ L D hf

BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ali Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ L f

HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-6001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany IN, 941-9426. Before holidays, you go in and carry out huge spiral-sliced hams or turkey breasts or beef roasts for your own parties. In the off season, you sit down in the café and order generous, filling sandwiches made from those same meats, served on rolls or croissants, cold or with a hot cheese melt. Soup and salads too. And cookies. $ L D

BRUEGGER’S BAGELS 119 Breckenridge Ln., 6181158. The bagel/deli/sandwich chain has set up shop in the middle of St. Matthews, offering another quick breakfast and lunch option. Choose from bagels and breakfast sandwiches, muffins, panini, salads and soups. $ B L f 7

JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 896-0150, 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-4130. Don’t look for a New York kosherstyle deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ L D f

BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing.

Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ B L D h

JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 9156 Taylorsville Rd., 499-9830. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ L D

BUTCHER’S BEST 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully staffed meat store in Prospect offers customcut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ L D f CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ L CHEF MARIA’S GREEK DELI 102 Fairfax Ave., 8957075. $ L D 7 DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ B L DEVINO’S 104 W. Main St., 569-3939. This stylish deli offers another lunch and dinner option downtown. Sandwiches are made from quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the premises, with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ L D f DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It 64 Summer 2014 www.foodanddine.com

JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP (11 Locations) This national sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ LDf LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 454-7831.

Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semi-fast food. $ L D f LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380, 8129 Preston Hwy., 3847900. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. A second location brings the Windy City fare to Okolona. $ L D f LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. This family-owned pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta has been in operation for 32 years now. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand threedeep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfy café, to eat that deli sandwich, or get coffee and dessert. $ L D f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ L

MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6510 Bardstown Rd., 2399997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3354, 1200 S. Floyd St. (U of L), 825-2285, 4677 Outer Loop, 969-3328, 980 Breckenridge Ln., 895-1698. Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ L D MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668, 555 S. Second St. (YMCA building), 5872353. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare both in the Highlands and at the YMCA downtown. $ L MUSCLE MONKEY GRILL 9565 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8807, 9463 Westport Rd., 420-0707, 147 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 269-1773, 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5624.

This small but growing local chain, founded by Steve and Jill Mazzoni and their friend Jason McCune, specializes in health and nutrition supplements and vitamins. $ B L D NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004.

An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton, this little outlet, inside Theater Square Marketplace, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ B L NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfort Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Offerings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ B L f OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ L PANERA BREAD CO. 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 899-9992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 500 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 635-9164, 1040 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9400, 400 W. Market St., 540-5250, 1801 Rudy Ln., 710-0297, 1534 Bardstown Rd., 459-8160.

Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ B L D f PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5070, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ L D PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ L D POTBELLY SANDWICH SHOP 302 S. Fourth St., 5401100, 4023 Summit Plaza Dr., 420-9616. This local outpost of the Chicago chain offers substantial sandwiches, salads and even breakfast sandwiches and oatmeal both to the downtown lunch crowd along Fourth St., and out at the Summit in the eastern suburbs. $ L D PRIMO’S DELICATESSEN 153 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 913-4715. It’s just what New Albany needed, a little New York style to give East Coast pizzazz to the downtown dining choices. Serving breakfast and lunch, so look for bagels and a schmear, and meaty sandwiches piled high. Dine-in or carry out six days a week. $ Br L

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QUIZNO’S SUBS 3173 S. Second St., 375-1400, 223 S. Fifth St., 589-5520, 11803 Shelbyville Rd., 253-5833, 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-7849, 220 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg, IN, 246-1419.

Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ L 7 RED’S COMFORT FOOD 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 587-7337. Across from Louisville Gardens, “Red” offers gourmet wieners and sausages, chicken barbecue topped with coleslaw and vegetarian side dishes, many made with locally sourced products.

Red closes for the winter, though, so his fans have to wait til spring. $ L f SAE CAFÉ 200 S. Seventh St., 585-3400. This spunky downtown breakfast and lunch place serves more healthful — and tasty — choices. Muffins and other breakfast pastries are by Najla’s, a Louisville baker that uses no trans-fats, corn syrup or preservatives. The sandwiches have clever names — Angry Bob, Hail to the Chief, Mexi Mama wrap and the Knuckle sandwich — and there are also salads and daily soup specials. $ B L SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 4258447. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971.

Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ B L D f SCOTTY’S VILLAGE MARKET 10640 Meeting St., 384-6338. A grocery store and deli joins the retail mix at Norton Commons. In keeping with the Village theme, the store evokes the feel and ambience of the old local grocery, in addition to doing on-site baking, smoking meats, and offering full to-go dinners. $ L D f SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. Another attractive East End storefront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good reviews for simple breakfast and lunch fare served in friendly surroundings. $ Br L f THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ L STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 5843354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ L SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075.

The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ L D TC’S SANDWICH SHOPPE 438 W. Market St., 5819200. $ L THORNBERRY’S DELI & PIES 5103 S. Third St., 367-8394. $ L TOM + CHEE 1704 Bardstown Rd., 409-9494, 319 W. Cardinal Blvd., 749-2299, 111 St. Matthews Ave., 893-3575. This regional soup and sandwich chain now has three locations in town and more in Lexington and Newport. Its hook is serving many variations on grilled cheese sandwiches (including a grilled cheese donut that has gained TV notoriety) and tomato (and other) soups. Daily specials augment the 15 core menu choices. $ L D f W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 8979684, 4112 Outer Loop, 290-5478. For 30 years this locally owned and operated build-your-own burger joint has packed in fans at its original location near

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Dupont Circle, and now it has expanded with a new outlet in Okolona. Both serve substantial burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and offer more than 40 toppings on the lengthy condiments bar. $ L D h WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way (Jewish Hospital), 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will serve in-house diners or take orders for deliveries.

Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ L D ZOUP! 318 S. Fourth St., 963-0777. Another chain outlet downtown gives all the lawyers and government workers another choice for soups, sandwiches and salads, plenty of low-fat, dairy-free and vegetarian choices that will rotate daily. $ L D

ATYPICAL MAN BBQ 119 St. Matthews Ave., 8933925. Can there be too many BBQ joints in town?

Nah. And this one is in a well-traveled part of St. Matthews, handy to the neighborhood and the many who come through for shopping. Stop in for all the usuals — pulled pork and brisket and smoked chicken, done juicily, with choice of sauces on the side, and solid side dishes like slaw and beans. $ L D 7 B3Q BBQ 1044 Copperfield Drive, Georgetown IN, 951-3900. Ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket, served up as sandwiches, wraps or platters. Also, smoked baloney and chicken, smoked turkey and sirloin tips, and plenty of side choices. Dine-in, carry-out and catering available. $ L D f BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 4099422. (See review under Bar & Grill.)

BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657.

Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ L D f

JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr., 375-1888. Bouncing back from a fire a couple of years ago, Jimbo’s has begun smoking again in the South End, across from Iroquois Park. All the usual, but for a quick lunch, try the BBQ-stuffed baked potato. $ L D f JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ L D f MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 285-1998, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 442-0808.

Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked take-home turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ L D h f MOMMA’S MUSTARD PICKLES & BBQ 102 Bauer Ave., 938-6262, 119 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 2907998. The Okie owner of this St. Matthews spot made his Kansas City barbecue so popular, so quickly, he has opened a second store in the East End. Knot on your bib for smoked ribs (pork and beef), brisket, chicken, pulled pork and all the standard sides. Their wings are a contender for best in all the city. $$ D f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ L D f PINK BARON BBQ 400 W. Court Ave., 835-7361. $LD

BRANDON’S BBQ & PIZZA 9901 LaGrange Rd., 4266666. Hickory-smoked Tennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, affordable dinners. $ L D

RIVER ROAD BBQ 3017 River Rd., 592-7065. Right next to the Water Tower, this little take-out only place smokes brisket and pork: some days one sells out, on other days the other. Winter hours are 116 or until the meat runs out. Potato salad, slaw and drinks. Buy it by sandwich or by the pound. $ L D

FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 493-2812, 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ L D hpf

ROB-A-QUE 4214 Bishop Ln., 365-1871. Owner Rob Bailey has turned his hobby into a business, converting a former Subway store into a fast-casual barbecue joint. From his high-style smoker comes pulled pork and chicken, brisket, St. Louis-style ribs, even smoked turkeys, spiral hams, smoked salmon and meatloaf. Side dishes as you’d expect them with “something extra” always thrown in. $ L

FEAST BBQ 116 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 9200454. Owner Ryan Rogers brings a modernist sensibility to the art of barbecue. He has formulas for brining times, and uses a high-tech smoker to keep the temps low and the smoke from overwhelming the meats. He also boasts one of the largest selections of Bourbon in southern Indiana. $ L D hpf

RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find a bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ L D hpfe

FIRE FRESH BBQ 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171. Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that Fire Fresh BBQ pays homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ L D 7 FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. And where else can you play miniature golf while waiting for the smoker to finish? $ L D pf

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HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 CharlestownNew Albany Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4490. Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce.

A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ L D

SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la carte and dinners.

The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ L D hp SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. This Fairdale institution since 2004 smokes and serves slow-smoked pulled pork, brisket, ribs and a dozen sides (including Nanny’s potato salad) from an 1896 log house. Specialty is hickory-grilled steaks on Friday and Saturday nights. $ L D fe SHANE’S RIB SHACK 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 429-3907.

“Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches and more at this growing Atlanta-based chain. $$ L D f 7 SMOKEHOUSE BBQ 5414 Bardstown Rd., 239-4422.

This smokery on Bardstown Road just past Hurstbourne offers baby back and spare ribs, pulled

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pork, brisket, chicken and burgers, along with home-cooked sides like collard greens, sweet potato fries and onion loaf. Finish off with a coconut cream pie or chocolate cobbler. $$ L D p SMOKETOWN USA 1153 Logan St., 409-9180. The name “Smoketown” points to the restaurant’s location in this legendary midtown neighborhood, while signaling there’s consistently fine and cleverly fused Memphis- and Texas-style barbecue to be found here. Irrepressible owner Eric Gould maintains his neighborhood spot also is about vegetarian food and yard sales, and everything in the store is for sale (artwork on the walls, furniture, even the salt shakers, just make an offer). You’ll also find live entertainment three nights weekly. $$ L D f SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A property of Orlando’s Darden fastfood chain, which also runs Olive Garden and Red Lobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveys more of a sports-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ L D hp TEXICANS BBQ PIT 6608 Hwy. 146, Crestwood. 2419227. A small, neighborhood place just off I-71 in Crestwood pleases fans with standard barbecue fare — pulled pork, brisket and ribs — as well as smoked sausage, chicken and boneless chops.

Cinnamon apples join the usual side selection of green beans, slaw and mac and cheese. $ L D

BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 4099422. Lively music offerings and excellent barbecue have made this Lower Highlands bar and grill a very satisfying place to dine and to hang out.

In addition to expected bar fare like wings and nachos, the menu offers catfish nuggets, Bourbonbraised brisket and vegetarian pasta and burgers, including an unusual grilled sweet potato burger. $ L D hpfe BEEF O’BRADY’S 241 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 5501 Valley Station Rd., 933-5919, 11324 Preston Hwy., 966-8515, 105 LaFollette Ct., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1316. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ L D hf BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ L D hpf THE BREWERY 426 Baxter Ave., 365-2505. This longtime Louisville sports bar will soon undergo a name change and grand reopening as Junction 426 in July. Under the guidance of Louisville Eats Good principals Dean Corbett, Shawn Ward, Nirmesh Agrawal and Brian Flowers, expect a gradual transformation of the venue as it becomes more like Corbett’s ultra-popular spot, Jack’s Lounge. Ward is tweaking the pub-grub menu until summertime ushers in the new one. $$ L D hpfe BROWNIE’S THE SHED GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pkwy., 326-9830. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Brown used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his pub and eatery. Louisville’s official home for Cincy Bengals fans, Brownie’s may be the closest thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighborhood saloon. $ L D hpfe BUD’S TAVERN GOOD FOOD & BARBECUE 4014 Dixie Hwy., 384-9131. This spiffed up Shively outpost offers honest bar food that’s receiving high praise. Check out the “gently fried” grouper,

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burgers (including a Reuben burger), burritos and barbecue. $ L D hpfe BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454-3635, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-9464. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ L D hpf BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area boasts 23 HDTVs including a 5- by 7-foot HD projector for 3D football viewing, a game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ L D hpfe

GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 637-9128. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ L D hp GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton Garden Inn), 637-2424. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ Br D pf

THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jeffersonville IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern environment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ L D pe LOUIS’S “THE TON” 1601 Story Ave. Old-timers know the Butchertown space as Johnson’s Beer & Bait, but new owners have renovated it to capture the atmosphere of a European “public house” focusing on moderately priced drinks, cold plate appetizers and tapas such as cheeses, meats and sausages and olives. $$ D he

THE CURE LOUNGE 1481 S. Shelby St., 619-2178.

The big old building at the corner of Burnett and Shelby Streets. has a long history, and The Cure Lounge is adding its chapter. Renovated and restyled by long-time Monkey Wrench bartender Alison Freels as a “super sexy lounge” with a small plates menu, this outpost brings a club vibe to Germantown.$ D hpfe

MIKE’S TAVERN 3521 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 945-8915. A tavern that serves a full breakfast — eggs, bacon, hotcakes. For lunch, a varied 1/2-pound burger menu — jalapeño burger, bacon burger, mushroom burger — plus a 2-pounder that is free if it can be eaten in 60 minutes. Breakfast or lunch served anytime. $ L p

DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513, 630 Barret Ave., 690-7040. $ L D

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NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ L D hpfe

DOWN ONE BOURBON BAR 321 W. Main St., 5663258. Situated down one flight below street level, this cool, shaded watering hold stocks 100-plus Bourbons, local craft beer and serves wines by the glass. A small but clever bar menu offers burgers, sandwiches and more. $$ L D pfe

FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930.

Steam-table service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ L D p GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616.

A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ L D hpfe

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JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 4494940. $ B L D

KHALIL’S 10966 Dixie Hwy., 632-2227. A family sports bar in Valley Station boasts plenty of TVs, including some tabletop TVs in booths. Menu presents the usual bar food suspects — salads, wings, burgers — but the burgers are on pretzel buns. $ L D hp

CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-8100, 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3662, 313 W. Cardinal Blvd., 365-1665. At this growing chain, you can get your wings doused in an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicy garlic barbecue to sweet Thai chili to inferno — a habanero-based sauce that has a legit name. Also breaded and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches, appetizers and salads. $ L D hpf

FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 585-3700.

Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ L D hpf

JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville IN, 2882100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ L D hpf

JR’S PUB 826 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 920-0030.

Live entertainment on weekends and a daily $1 draft beer pick please the fans. The kitchen has pared down the offerings to burgers and sandwiches. $$ L D hpfe

CHAMPIONS SPORTS BAR AND GRILL 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246. Another popular option at the striking downtown Marriott, Champions provides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme — and a gallery of big-screen televisions to keep the sports action flowing as freely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ L D hp

DRAKE’S 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 614-7327, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr., 384-3921. Lexington-based Bluegrass Hospitality Group has two lively outlets, in the old Burdorf’s building in St. Matthews and the second at The Summit. Twenty-four craft beers on tap to wash down the traditional pub grub of tacos, ribs and — these days — sushi. Familyfriendly by day and a hoppin’ spot at night, with music videos and a DJ. $$ L D hpf

dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ L D hpf

HIGHLANDS TAPROOM GRILL 1058 Bardstown Rd., 584-5222. Another nice choice for beer and bar food along the B’town Rd. corridor, but with former Lilly’s chef Tommy Clemons at the helm the menu includes, but extends beyond, the usual beer cheese, chili and burgers. Look for the crabby patty, smoked shrimp scampi, or French toast sausage, house made with egg and maple syrup. The pulled pork spring rolls are on their way to becoming legendary. $$ L D hpfe HILLTOP TAVERN 1800 Frankfort Ave., 742-2908.

The Skelton brothers (John is an alum of Seviche) have taken over this prime Clifton location, once the original location of Café Lou Lou. Their tavern fare is focused on barbecue, with pulled pork and beer-butt chicken specialties, along with hefty sandwiches (their meatloaf is a standout). $ D hp HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ L D hpf HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual

OLD LOUISVILLE TAVERN 1532 S. Fourth St., 6374200. It’s been around for a while, but new ownership is bringing in a more enthusiastic crowd, for the ambience as well as the bar food, things like chili cheese fries, portobello mushroom fries, and a knocker burger. $$ L D hpfe O-LINE SPORTS GRILL 2813 N Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-6171. You can watch every game, every sport all year long, they claim. While you do, you can chow down a variety of bar food, such as the juicy Lucy cheese burger or nacho burger. The kids might like the mini-footballs, franks encased in pastry dough, fried and served with dipping sauces. $ L D hp 7 RIVER CITY DRAFTHOUSE 1574-1/2 Bardstown Rd., 690-5111. Another beer joint along the Bardstown Road corridor boasts more than 20 taps focused on independent, American, craft beer (in sample, halfpint and pint sizes) and several bottled options. Its limited (for now) bar menu has garnered early praise for its wings. $$ L D hf ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoal-grilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ L D hpf SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger,

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happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ L D hpfe SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 6182337. Despite minimal signage, Sergio’s Butchertown digs pull in his fans, who dig the quirky website, and the whole aura of haughty mystery.

What you really need when you locate the place is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ D h THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramount Park Dr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want in a sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptions to all the pro and college sports networks, and hearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimp and salmon. $$$ L D hpf THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-1400. This Cordishowned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ L D hpf SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St., 584-6630. A classic American bar and grill, open late on weekends, dispensing cold beer, burgers, sandwiches and good cheer in a friendly atmosphere.

The decor includes a collection of old bicycles hanging from the ceiling, and amenities include several video games and pool tables. $$ L D hp SULLY’S SALOON 434 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 585-4100. One of the stalwarts at 4th Street Live, Sully’s works hard to offer a good time. Their happy hour (M-F 5-9 p.m.) draws crowds with great drink prices and creative, favorably priced appetizers. The new menu is an amalgam of allAmerican, American-Irish and Italian-American comfort foods — chorizo chili potato skins, Irish tacos (topped with shredded corned beef), spicy Alfredo penne — that sort of thing. $$ L D hpfe TAVERN ON FOURTH 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 588-8888. This spacious sports bar is the latest addition to the festivities at Fourth Street Live. You will find plenty of games, filling upscale bar food and lots of drink choices at the bar. This newest addition, targeting the 30 and older crowd, sprawls over two stories of the Kaufmann-Strauss building, including the space that was the Improv Comedy Club. $$ D hpfe THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 451-0659. You need a bit of perseverance to track down this saloon on the back side of Mid-City Mall. When you do, you will find one of the city’s friendliest pubs, with a reputation for the best pour of drinks around. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ D hpf TIN ROOF 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1940. This Nashville-based chain, which took over the old Brendan’s location in the heart of St. Matthews has a split personality: a family-friendly vibe during the lunch hours; and a rockin’ juke joint at night with live music until 3 a.m. Its menu encompasses everything you expect from bar grub: deep-fried hot dogs, hot wings, quesadillas and salads for the ladies. $ L D hpfe TROLL PUB UNDER THE BRIDGE 150 W. Washington St., 618-4829. On the downslope alongside the Clark Memorial Bridge, a large troll beckons the adventurous into a space excavated out of the lost space in the old whiskey warehouse. The renovation boasts lots of dark, brick-walled spaces, as well as a funky outdoor dining area in the lightwell. The menu offers stacked sandwiches, bison burgers and sweet potato tots, and ribeye steaks. $$ L D hpf VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 9444338. $ L D

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WINGSTOP 4812 Dixie Hwy., 409-6000. This Texasbased chain with 500 restaurants nationally, now reaches into Louisville. Their specialty? Wings of course, and you can get them 9 different ways. $$ L D hp ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene, the Zbar has resurrected itself at its original Germantown location. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, the arcade is stocked with vintage pinball and electronic games, and the Beer Can Collection is as long as your arm. The chow is high-quality bar grub — things like wings, fried egg rolls, pizzas, sandwiches, salads, and the Death Star cookie, baked in a skillet and topped with ice cream. And top-flight live music late into the night. $ L D hpfe

AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 515-0174. Slugger Field once again has a beer-pub.

The owners, veterans of the local brewing revival, have worked out an ambitious rotating beer selection and a smokehouse theme for the kitchen, with an emphasis on seasonal dishes. $$ L D pf APOCALYPSE BREW WORKS 1612 Mellwood Ave., 589-4843. Veteran home brewers Leah Dienes, Paul Grignon and Bill Krauth run the newest brewery in Butchertown. Their taproom, dubbed The Fallout Shelter, serves up to 10 of their concoctions. $ h BANK STREET BREWHOUSE 415 Bank St., New Albany IN, 725-9585. The food focus of this offshoot of F&D columnist Roger Baylor’s New Albanian brewing empire has morphed into American bistro cuisine, with emphasis on fresh and local ingredients, and daily fish specials.

Devotees will still find steak frites and croques monsieurs et madames to go with the exceptional beer brewed on the premises. $$ L D pf BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739, 660 S. Fourth St., 568-2224, 300 W. Main St., 562-0007.

More than just a brewpub. BBC’s management gives equally serious attention to both cooking and brewing, making this a great place to stop in for both dinner and a beer. Its third restaurant site on Main Street boasts an upstairs Bourbon lounge. $$ L D hpfe CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “microbrewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality handcrafted artisan beers. $ L D hf GORDON BIERSCH BREWERY RESTAURANT 400 S. Fourth St., 589-8935. The growing national brewery and restaurant chain has become an anchor at the corner location at 4th and Liberty, brewing their characteristic German-style bottomfermented lagers, Hefeweizen, bocks, pilsners and Schwarzbiers. The large menu offers the usual pubgrub, but touted as fresh, seasonal and made on the premises. $$$ Br L D hpf NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. (See review under Pizza.)

ABYSSINIA 554 S. Fifth St., 384-8347. This downtown Ethiopian restaurant has gained many fans with its variety of hearty stews, known as “wots,” and interesting vegetarian choices, with large portions and reasonable prices. $ L D ADDIS GRILL 109 S. Fourth St., 581-1011. The signage of this downtown ethnic eatery promises “Mediterranean & Ethiopian Cuisine,” but the menu offers 70 Summer 2014 www.foodanddine.com

mostly Mediterranean standbys — kabobs, hummus, baba ghannouj, dolmades, tabbouleh. $ L D h AL NUUR 2933 S. Fourth St., 210-7623. Another outlet for Arabian food, but one that goes beyond the usual. You can find long-braised lamb shank and roasted goat, as well as shish kebabs, fish and spaghetti. Take out or eat in. $ L D BELA’S CAFÉ 2933 S. Fourth St., 758-6463. This little Somali café caters mostly to the Muslim community settling in around Churchill Downs, offering cheap, filling, and interestingly spiced foods such as sambusas and nafaqo — a hard-boiled egg in a crust of potato and ground beef, a kind of African Scotch egg. $ L D CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’s international dining scene, with generous portions of spicy Senegalese cuisine from West Africa. $ L D h FUNMI’S AFRICAN RESTAURANT 3028 Bardstown Rd., 454-5009. Billing itself as serving “Modern Nigerian Cuisine,” Funmi’s offers a range of dishes from North and Central African cultures. Sample goat in a soup or a thick stew. Try soya, a West African shish kebab with a spicy peanut rub or moin-moin, a savory bean cake or lablabi, a Tunisian chickpea soup. Vegetarian and vegan dishes are available as well. $$ L D KALISIMBI BAR & GRILL 5600 S. Third St., 3641910. This Beechmont sports bar features a blend of African and American foods served alongside an extensive wine and beer list. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $$ B L D MAA SHA ALLAH 4113 Bardstown Rd., 491-3152.

The name is an Arabic blessing or expression of joy, meaning “Whatever Allah wants to give.” This little Buechel storefront is another example of the entrepreneurial spirit of recent immigrants, in this case from Senegal and Sierra Leone. The menu is African, the ambiance modest, the food spicy and tasty. $$ L D QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ L D

A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582, 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 3646 Mall Rd., 479-9989. Competent cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes these buffets a good choice among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ L D ASIAN MOON 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ L D AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569.

August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and from the staff makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant alfresco dining experience. $$$ L D hpf CHEER KING STAR 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. Just what downtown needed — a Chinese buffet for quick lunches. Mostly the familiar, a mix of Cantonese, Szechuan and Hunan choices for those who need a little spice to fire them up to get back to work. $ L D

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CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ L D CHINA 1 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ L D CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 969-9222. $ L D CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ L D CHINA COAST 4952 Manslick Rd., 363-4259. $ L D CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ L D CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ L D CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ L D CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 284-5580. $ L D CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ L D CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ L D CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ L D h CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ L D CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ L D CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RESTAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ L D CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. A standout among fast-food shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently wellprepared and flavorful fare. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353.$LD7 EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ L D EGGROLL MACHINE 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259.

The Chinese side of the menu at Café Mimosa is presented as The Egg Roll Machine, as opposed to the Vietnamese dishes on the fine dining Mimosa menu. All the expected Chinese favorites are here, including combination platters. $ L D hp EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Center, 426-1717. One of Louisville’s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese restaurants, the Emperor’s quarters are stylishly strewn across multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater. Outstanding. $$ L D hp EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500.

Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ L D hp FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh Street Rd., 448-0588. $ L D h GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $LDh GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $$ L D GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3458 Taylor Blvd., 368-1833. $ L D h GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ L D GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ L D h

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GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fast-food Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of word-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargain-basement price. $ L D HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ L D HAPPY DRAGON 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8788.

You guessed it: a good, go-to standard pan-China family-style restaurant in Jeffersontown that’s always there when you’re tired of cooking dinner for the clan. $ L D HIBACHI SUSHI BUFFET 5316 Bardstown Rd., 4918228. Capitalizing on two seemingly persistent trends in American dining, this hot table place offers standard Chinese buffet dishes, and standard sushi choices. Cashew chicken, shrimp with garlic sauce, Dancing Dragon roll, spring and summer maki — it is all here. $$ L D 7 HONG KONG CHINESE RESTAURANT 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany IN, 945-1818. $ L D HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ L D h

set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $ L D f

style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ L D

ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017.

New owners continue the tradition at this longstanding St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ L D p

TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sitdown Chinese restaurant owned and operated by Paul and Amy Yang joins the small but growing cluster of businesses in the Norton Commons village center. $$ L D h

ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area.

This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ L D PANDA CHINESE RESTAURANT 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ L D PANDA EXPRESS 1075 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN 288-0774, 1232 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3268430. The Pentagon even has one of the 1500+ outlets of the nation’s largest Chinese fast food chains, and now we have two. Moderately priced chow such as orange chicken, Beijing beef, SweetFire chicken breast and honey walnut shrimp fill the menu. $ L D

WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ L D h WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. Traditional Chinese fare. Family-owned-and-operated, this popular neighborhood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $ L D YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 426-0800. This locally owned and operated Oxmoor spot is colorful and stylish. It offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ L D f 7 YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ L D YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8313, 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 282-8881. $ L D

HUNAN WOK 6445 Bardstown Rd., 231-0393. $ L D h JADE PALACE 1201 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’t miss it at mid-day Friday through Monday, when it offers the metro area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ Br L D hp 7

SARI SARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2339 Frankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’s first Filipino eatery offers a tasty introduction to the Malayo-Polynesian fare of this Southeast Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are affordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buffet. $ L D

JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. A charming Asian eatery, where you can enjoy familiar ChineseAmerican plates or indulge your more adventurous side with more unusual authentic dishes from the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ L D f

ARATA SUSHI 9207 U.S. 42, 409-4880. Prospect gets a sleek sushi place, with crisp dark modern interior, well-prepared fresh fish and rolls, and a fine selection of sakes. $$ L D p

THE JOY LUCK 1285 Bardstown Rd., 238-3070. The shot-gun house across from Mid-City Mall is now the home of a fine Asian restaurant. You will find familiar Chinese dishes very well done, as well as some authentic Taiwanese offerings. Look for duck dishes cooked in three different styles—Cantonese, Taiwanese and Beijing—and fusion ideas, like kimchee quesadilla and Kentuckyaki chicken. The stunningly redone interior and the quality of the food make Joy Luck a competitor with the town’s better Asian restaurants. $$ L D hpf 7

ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130.

This small room in St. Matthews houses this neighborhood sushi spot where award-winning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ L D BAR CODE 1758 1758 Frankfort Ave., 209-9061.

The long-shuttered site of Maido’s Essential Japanese in Clifton will by late May open again as Bar Code 1758. Song Kim, currently the chef at Osaka, will put the emphasis on the sushi bar, and a menu of Japanese and Korean appetizer-style dishes such as yakitori, Japanese-style skewered chicken. Better yet, they will be open until 2 a.m. every night but Sunday. $$ D hpf

JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 495-0028.

Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ L D h KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King Wok offers all the familiar standards plus a small lunch buffet. $ L D h LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ L D LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ L D NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ L D ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and wooden-bucket steamed rice)

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BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700.

Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Bendoya is a genuine, serious sushi bar in a storefront just across the street from the courthouse. $$ L PEKING CITY BISTRO 12410 Shelbyville Rd., 2536777. A step up from the usual Chinese hot table fare. Chef Chen, highly thought of in the Chinese community, runs the kitchen. $ L D QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ L D RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 3437 Breckinridge Ln., 499-7788. $ L D ROYAL GARDEN 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788. $ L D SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St., 568-8833. $LD SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 426-6767.

Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown

CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. (See listing under Upscale Casual.)

CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln., 426-4441. This suburban Asian grocery now serves hot table fare to enjoy while shopping. $ L D DANCING SUSHI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 2809 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-3387. $$ L D DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 632-2444, 202 East Elm St., New Albany IN, 7258600. Owner Toki Masubuchi’s audacious take on fusion cuisine looks to enchant New Albanians as they have Bardstown Road hipsters. The eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists: pizza

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topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $ L D hpf FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$LDp FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036.

Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ L D hp GINZA ASIAN BISTRO 9420 Shelbyville Rd., 7498878. A one-stop Asian restaurant at the junction of Hurstbourne Lane and Shelbyville Road. Choose to eat from the Chinese, Japanese or Thai kitchen, or sidle up to the sushi bar for all manner of vegetarian or fish-focused rolls, or sushi combos that include miso soup and salad. A la carte sushi entrées too. $$ L D hp HANABI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 6027 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting, and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties have made this family run Prospect spot a worthy alternative in the East End dining scene. $$ L D hp HEART & SOY 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. To the left is Roots, a sit-down restaurant. To the right is Heart & Soy, serving vegetarian “street food,” and entertaining passers-by with a glass-walled tofumaking room. State-of-the-art equipment from Taiwan transforms organic soy beans from Ohio into soy milk and then coagulates and presses it into tofu as you watch. $ L D HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651.

Japanese-trained chef Norihiko Nakanashi brings his artistic skills to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ L D hp 7

MT. FUJI 309 Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. The quickeating strip on the north side of U of L’s campus needed a Japanese place to satisfy students’ sushi cravings. The menu also has tempura and Japanese noodles. $ L D p OISHII SUSHI 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 365-3474. This small, attractive and popular sushi spot has contracted to a single location near Bowman Field. $$ L D h OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing Clifton favorite also has a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ L D ROOTS 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6688. Coco Tran, who has nurtured a loyal Clifton-area fan base with her Zen Garden, looks to seduce the vegan/ vegetarian world of the Highlands with this crisp, elegant room. Eat at tables in the front, enjoy smoothies and tea at the bar, or snuggle down in a Japanese pit table in the back. Choose from an international selection of small plates. $ L D SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “full-service” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ L D hp SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600.

Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue — direct descendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ L D h SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550, 649 S. Fourth St., 589-3333. With its original location in the middle of Bardstown Road’s “restaurant row,” trendy, glitzy Sapporo has

established itself as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. Its second location is in a beautifully designed space in Theater Square off Broadway downtown. $$$ L D hp SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 3940123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination.

It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ L D hp SORA SUSHI AND JAPANESE CUISINE 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 290-7672. Every neighborhood now needs its sushi place. Louisville’s inexhaustible hunger for sticky rice wrapped in seaweed has seen it win early fans who attest to the menu’s freshness and to the pleasant service and setting. $$ L D p STAR SUSHI 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 725-8444. Is there a surfeit of sushi around the area? Even Jeffersonville now has its own source of yellowtail rolls, sashimi and nigiri, which is drawing fans for the freshness and flavor of its offerings, and its very fair price point. $$ L D TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ L D 7 TOMO 4315 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9410200. This Japanese hibachi steak house offers a good show of knife skills and tableside grilling, as well as sushi. Patrons seem to admire the oversize sushi rolls, the salads with ginger dressing, and the grilled chicken and scallops. $$ L D p WASABIYA JAPANESE RESTAURANT 972 Baxter Ave., 618-2460. A neighborhood sushi bar, with a

ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shore Ct., 412-3339.

This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originally a Benihana, offers similar delights, with the traditional slice-and-dice food show and good sushi. Best deal, while the offer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ L D p KAILANA SUSHI 6435 Bardstown Rd., 614-7244. Fern Creek gets another choice in sushi bars, with generous rolls priced competitively — nothing over $12. Four levels of 13-piece, mix and match lunch specials, as well as rice, noodles and salads. $$ L D h

JAPANESE

GRILL

KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-9538, 1850 S. Hurst bourne Pkwy., 618-1870. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ L D hp

AND

SUSHI

SAPPOROJAPANESE.COM 1706 BARDSTOWN RD. 502.479.5550 649 SOUTH 4TH ST. 502.589.3333

KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese restaurant has been drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ L D p MASA JAPANESE 12336 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5040.

Middletown, too, joins in the sushi expansion. Open for lunch and dinner, the standard menu is bolstered by daily chef’s specials. Lunch specials include the Japadawg, a hot dog with Japanese toppings, a range of teriyaki choices and ramen noodles, Japanese style. $$ L D h MIKATO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3938 Dupont Circle, 891-0081. An upscale hibachi grillhouse in the popular restaurant ring in the Breckinridge Lane — Dupont Circle area. Pleasant decor, entertaining grill chefs, fresh sushi preparations, and sometimes glacial service. $$ L D hpf

DINNER ONLY HIBACHI GRILL RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED

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chef from Boston with fusion cuisine intentions.

Look for some unusual items, like the sake kinuta, salmon wrapped in marinated daikon radish with a citrus sauce, or a fatty tuna carpaccio with white wine reduction and ponzu sauce. $$ L D h 7 WILD GINGER SUSHI & FUSION 1700 Bardstown Rd., 384-9252. This Highlands sushi and Asian fusion spot has a sushi bar up front, and a panAsian menu in the back dining room. Standard Japanese entrées are joined with specials from Korea (bibim bop) China (Sichuan-style crispy tofu) and Thailand (pad thai and curries). $$ L D hp

CHARIM KOREAN RESTAURANT 4123 Oechsli Ave., 290-8900. “Charim” can be rendered as “the table is set.” In this case with home-style Korean food, including nokdo jeon, a pancake with mung beans and kim chee — house-made kim chee at that. This modest St. Matthews place quickly became a hit, expecially for the banchan, the assortment of sides that come with each entrée. $ L D 7

his wife, a classically trained Thai chef, are pleasing diners in St. Matthews and Middletown. Their menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items use many ingredients from their small home garden. $$ LDf

Louisville, and his experience shows. The warmth of his welcome — and the quality of the food — make Thai Taste special. $ L D

TAN THAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ L D

ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn Ave., 363-4847.

Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ L D

THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 425-4815.

You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ L D f

FOUR SISTERS 2246 Frankfort Ave., 384-4262. Four Vietnamese sisters have developed a devoted following for their Clifton coffeehouse and tea room that also serves sweet and savory crepes and bahn mi. $ L D

LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ L D h

LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que provides the lower Highlands with a dependable, economical Vietnamese menu that includes some dishes from other Asian cuisines. $$ L D hf LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2447110. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ L D h

BD’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4406. The proprietors of this Michiganbased East End chain invite you to “go Mongo,” building your own choice of ingredients and sauces for the chefs to stir-fry. $$ L D hpf 7

NAMNAM CAFÉ 318 Wallace Ave., 891-8859. This small St. Matthews Vietnamese restaurant has gained many enthusiastic fans who flock there for the pho, the banh mi and other authentic Vietnamese dishes. $ L D f

GENGHIS GRILL 4002 Towne Center Dr., 426-4945.

The chain of Asian stir-fry restaurants has been steadily moving northward from its Dallas home base. At this suburban location just beyond the Gene Snyder Freeway you can choose one of their dozen “signature bowls” including Szechuan bamboo beef, ginger herb shrimp, Mexican jalapeño and chipotle steak. Or design your own from a choice of protein, vegetables, sauces and starches. $$ L D p

PEARL Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-7662648. Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine, elegantly served, Pearl is among the dining choice at Horseshoe Casino. Signature dishes include Vietnamese spring rolls, ginger and scallion fried lobster and crispy salt and pepper shrimp. $$ L D hp

SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 9148 Taylorsville Rd., 493-0234, 423 E. Warnock St., 409-5029. Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. Shah’s carries their spirit forward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ L D 7

SALA THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992, 10403 Glenmary Farm Dr., 493-3944. This entry on the growing list of Thai restaurants is gaining fans, partly because it is vegetarian- and vegan-friendly. $$ L D SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670, 12003 Shelbyville Rd, 690-8344. Owner Mahn Saing and 74 Summer 2014 www.foodanddine.com

CAFÉ MIMOSA 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259.

Owner Phat Le, serving his Vietnamese, Chinese and pan-Asian dishes to happy regulars, might finally wean Louisvillians from referring to his building as the former Lentini’s. $ L D hp CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959.

A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the banh mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ L D

KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ L D

MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ L D

BANH MI HERO 2245 Bardstown Rd., 456-2022.

Seven versions of the French-Vietnamese fusion sandwich on offer here, plus Asian tacos and rice bowls, washed down with Vietnamese coffee, jasmine tea or exotic Asian canned soft drinks.$ L D

THAI NOODLES 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. New name and ownership at the former Thai Smile 5, with a menu that covers Thai standards like pad Thai and curries, with some interesting variations, including several duck items, such as Bangkok duck and pineapple curry duck. Noodle dishes range from flat and thin egg noodle to bean thread and rice noodle. $ L D THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this venerable spot has built a loyal audience over the years, perhaps responding to its regular visitors’ preferences with food that’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ L D THAI TASTE 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 897-7682. The owner-host of this friendly, casual spot in Crescent Hill had a restaurant in Bangkok before moving to

PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249.

Tiny and lovably cozy, this six-table South End spot is true authentic Vietnamese, and so are the proprietors. There’s some language barrier, but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare and inexpensive prices. $ L D SAIGON CAFÉ 108 Fairfax Ave., 893-7757. St. Matthews diners can find tasty and inexpensive Southeast Asian fare here — Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese dishes are all choices on the menu. $$ L D h 7 SAIGON ONE 333 W. Cardinal Blvd., 638-8989.

When U of L students get the sniffles, they just have to have quick access to a bowl of steaming pho. This Vietnamese place at the new university dorm and restaurant row at Cardinal Towne provides needed sustenance. $ L D h VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154.

This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ L D h

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ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 895-9114.

Vegetarians with a philosophical bent have found a combination guru and den mother in Zen Garden’s owner Coco, who serves up sincere and soulful Asian vegan dishes. $ L D h

BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. Chef Alexander Dulaney and owner Anthony Dike’s refocus of the restaurant around a bistro menu continues its popularity. $$$$ D pfe BRASSERIE PROVENCE 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 883-3153. This new Provencal-style French brasserie offers classical and Southern France specialties.

Owner Guy Genoud, a native of Cannes, and chef de cuisine Edoardo Bacci offer a large selection of mid-priced lunch and dinner fare including an array of seafoods, lamb, duck and beef, daily “plat du jour,” delightful aperitifs, wines and cocktails just like you’d find in Provence $$$ L D hpf GHYSLAIN 721 E. Market St., 690-8645, 1215 Herr Ln., 690-6001. The two locations of this French bistro, in NuLu and in Westport Village are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, serving grilled baguettes, croque monsieurs, panini, quiches, soups, salads, and fine chocolates. $$ B L D LA COOP: BISTRO À VINS 732 E. Market St., 4102888. One of the hottest spots in NuLu. Uber talented chef Bobby Benjamin is turning out classic French bistro fare with some modern twists, an idea that keeps his little place packed with happy diners. $$$ B L D hpf LOUIS LE FRANCAIS 133 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-1222. This charming French bistro extends the range of international dining options in New Albany. Louis “Louis the Frenchman” Retailleau serves a menu typical of the cuisine of his native southwest France. $$$$ D p

MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, has added a second, suburban location. Both are as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ L D hpfe MORE SHENANIGAN’S 4521 Bardstown Rd., 4933585. $ L D hpfe O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. One of the most popular watering holes in the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor.

Twenty-somethings and Louisville belles love its action. But diners of all ages like its meat loaf, roast beef and Irish stew. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ L D hpfe PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This downtown Irish bar was one of the first to open in the Whiskey Row complex. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. $$ L D hpfe SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ L D hpfe

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ L D AMICI 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Satisfying traditional Tuscan dishes are served in this interesting — and supposedly haunted — Old

Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic patio on a lovely summer evening, There’s no extra charge if the ghosts want to share your penne alla Lorenzo or Valpolicella. $$ L D pf ANSELMO’S ITALIAN BISTRO 1511 Bardstown Rd., 749-0444. Highland residents hankering for simple, traditional, filling Italian dishes can find just that in this Italian bistro. The menu offers what one would expect: pizza, pastas, lasagna — at reasonable prices. $$ L D hp 7 BISTRO 42 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 632-2552. Another entry in the dining choices at Prospect Village shopping center. This little family-run place, serving pasta, sandwiches and Italian and American dishes is proud of its 5-cheese 3-meat Bistro lasagna and their 3-hour honey-baked ham, offered at an attractive price. $$ L D hpfe BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott). See listing under Upscale Casual.

BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ L D hp 7 CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$$ L D

hpf COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. With both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisville

EIDERDOWN 983 Goss Ave., 290-2390. The owners of the Germantown watering hole Nachbar also operate the popular Eiderdown, serving Southern comfort food influenced by the owners’ German and European heritage. Dreams of a microbrewery there also dance in their heads; in the meantime, diners are satisfied with a large selection of European craft beers on tap. $$ L D h GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177.

Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North RhineWestphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$ D

IRISH EXIT 209 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 944-1929.

The Irish Exit (a tongue-in-cheek name referring to the quiet, no-farewell leave-taking of inebriated Hibernians) serves pub fare and entertains patrons with karaoke and acoustic music, pool tables and dart boards. $ D hpe IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGrange, 222-2286. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloons are as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. The Frankfort Avenue building dates from 1859. $ Br L D pf

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music 7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

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neighborhood saloons, this one houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $$ L D p DIFABIO’S CASAPELA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. DiFabio’s Casapela has made its mark in this Crescent Hill space, with a menu that harks back to the red-checked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccata, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ D f THE INTERNATIONAL MALL 737 S. Eighth St., 561-8871. $ L D LA GALLO ROSSO BISTRO 1325 Bardstown Rd., 4730015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alley serves casual Italian and Continental food in a cozy family-style setting. $$ D f MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr. 394-9797. Now locally owned, Martini’s continues to serve hearty, well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas, a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria. An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ L D hpf OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ L D hp THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer Loop, 968-2978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ L D hp PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offices for blocks around empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $$ L D PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992.

Crowds wait at the popular bar for one of the tables — or just wait at the bar. $$$ L D hpfe ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-3844. (See review under Pizza.)

ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ L D hp SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-5400.

Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ L D 7 STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner well worth a special trip out from the city. $$ L D TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced ItalianAmerican fare at a price that’s right. $$ L D hp

candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a notch. With a combination of Italian standards and monthly menu updates, Chef Josh Moore has secured Volare a top spot for suave Italian dining. Its U.S.D.A. Prime barrel-cut beef program has received rave reviews. $$$ D hpfe

MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojito quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $$ L D hpf

BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-8892.

With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ L D CLAY OVEN INDIAN RESTAURANT 12567 Shelbyville Rd., 254-4363. Northern Indian cuisine comes to Middletown, with a focus on the clay oven specialties of the region, including some Nepalese dishes, like goat curry and chicken mo-mo (a kind of chicken and dumplings dish). Also look for a selection of lamb dishes and, of course, a large vegetarian menu. $$ L D DAKSHIN INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. Owned and operated by the same family that brings us Kashmir Restaurant and Bombay Grocery in the Highlands, this addition brings aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ B L D p KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1277 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ L D hf LITTLE INDIA CAFÉ 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 479-3353.

It’s sort of an Indian fast-food place, set up in a former Quizno’s. The menu includes appetizers such as lentil soup and mirchi bajji — fried lentil-battered stuffed peppers — followed by Northern lamb and vegetarian entrées, tandoori chicken and kebabs.

There’s also a selection of Indian breads. A Punjabistyle (Northern Indian) lunch buffet is for those who want really fast service. $ L D f SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1820 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants. With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ L D 7 TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes.

Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ L D f

A.J.’S GYRO CAFÉ 9280 IN 64, Georgetown, IN, 9511715. $ L D f

VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. (See listing under Upscale Casual.)

AL WATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ L D

VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and

ALADDIN’S CAFÉ 111 W. Market St., New Albany IN, 489-7969. The name should be a clue that

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Aladdin’s Café brings Middle Eastern cuisine to the still-growing dining scene in New Albany.

You’ll find beef, lamb or chicken gyros, chicken shawarma, tabbouleh and hummus. Finish your meal with thick Turkish coffee. $ L D h 7 ANDALOUS MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 709-4001. Though we’re not complaining, most Mediterranean cafés around town skew toward standard Middle Eastern hummus and falafel fare. Andalous does, too, but it serves more ethnically eclectic fare too, including foul, an Egyptian fava bean dish, and tagines and harira, typically Moroccan dishes. $$ B L D BURNING BUSH GRILLE 13206 W. U.S. Highway 42, 228-7776. This Prospect-area Mediterranean café serves kebabs, steak, fish and lamb, salads, pizza, gyros and Balkan burgers. $ L D f CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. Highlands diners enjoy an eclectic and international menu at the friendly corner place, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, just about 24/7. $ B L D hpf THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 4544407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the Bardstown-Baxter entertainment strip.

Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ L D hf GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. Relatively recent renovations and an expanded menu have elevated the Grape Leaf to destination status, placing it well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery niche. Prices remain affordable, while the food and mood now justify a special trip. $$ L D

f7 LITTLE JERUSALEM 5312 S. Third St., 614-6465.

Middle Eastern fare in the ethnic food complex around Iroquois Manor. The usual things, like hummus and falafel, but also chicken sumac and fatoush and mujadara, made from green lentils, basmati rice, onions and exotic spices. $ L D MASALA GRILL 528 S. Fifth St., 562-0202. $ L MIRAGE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 4100 Preston Hwy., 363-7788. Preston Highway’s international restaurant row is enriched by this Middle Eastern eatery, run by the owners of the nowdefunct Little Jerusalem. Gyros, hummus, falafel — what one would expect, but done with attention to details and a flair for flavor. $$ L D f PETRA MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 3904 Bardstown Rd., 749-0924. Another addition to the ethnic choices out in Beuchel. As with many “Mediterranean” restaurants around, the fare is largely confined to that of the Levant schwarmas and hummus and flafel. $$ L D h PITA HUT 1613 Bardstown Rd., 409-8484. After its expansion more than doubled the space in this once-tiny spot, more diners can enjoy MediterraneanMiddle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ L D PITA PIT 9816 Linn Station Rd., 565-1220, 12537 Shelbyville Rd., 565-1220. A franchise operation dedicated to cramming all sorts of fillings into a flatbread pocket. Chomp on a chicken Caesar pita, or a Philly steak pita. Many veggie selections, from garden vegetables to falafel to hummus and baba ganoush. They’re open for breakfast too: ham ’n’ eggs and sausage scramble to go. $ L D PRINCE HOOKAH LOUNGE 1489 S. Fourth St., 618-4201. With the Highlands just about packed as full as possible with hookah bars, now Old Louisville residents, too, can drop in for a puff at the corner building that has seen many owners and incarnations over the years, and have a burger, or a

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

turkey sandwich, some falafel or hummus or wings.$ L D h SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. An unassuming location in an odd spot downtown, but a most pleasant space inside, with food and service that continues to please regulars and delight visitors. The popular menu items continue to be rack of lamb, roasted duck fesenjoon, salomon and kebabs. $$$ L D pf SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standard American fare at this welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich? $ L D f SAM’S GYRO 9104 Taylorsville Rd., 491-1182. This Hikes Point hummus and kebab joint has won fans with its, tasty food and friendly service. The menu features everything you would expect from a typical Eastern Mediterranean menu: falafel, tabouli, gyros, baklava and spanakopita. $ L D h SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2011 Frankfort Ave., 891-8854, 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 4269954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232. From a tiny neighborhood storefront, Shiraz quickly grew out of its original location and expanded into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, such as char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavish bread. $ L D f 7 TUT’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3425 Bardstown Rd., 452-1899. The Buechel area’s hunger for hummus, dolmas, lamb and falafel is well served by this Middle Eastern eatery. $ L D f THE WAREHOUSE HOOKAH BAR & CAFÉ 504 State St., New Albany IN, 276-5894. Choose from up to 10 flavors of tobacco to relish at the table with friends at this first hookah bar in southern Indiana.

Also on offer is a full bar and American pub grub such as pizzas, pita and hummus, corn dogs, jumbo pretzels, chips and salsa or queso to munch on between puffs. $ L D hpe

SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. This Cajun/Creole place in a renovated Anchorage roadhouse continues to find fans.

Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ Br L D hpf

CUBAN FLAVOR 5700 Outer Loop, 618-2181. The flowering of Cuban/Caribbean cuisine is reaching out beyond the city. This little place, in a strip mall, of course, brings black beans and rice and pork asado to Okolona. $ L D

HAVANA RUMBA & TAPAS BAR 2210 Bardstown Rd., 749-4600. The Havana Rumba family brings Cuban food to the Douglass Loop, and adds a large selection of Spanish tapas as well. Fans have also spoken reverently of the mojitos and other cocktails in the stylish bar. $ L D hpfe 7 PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bardstown Rd., 456-6461.

Louisville’s best source for authentic Argentine cooking: lots of beef (and chicken) slow-cooked over charcoal and Latin versions of Italian dishes, like chicken Milanesa. Palermo Viejo is the Little Italy of Buenos Aires, hometown of owner Francisco Elbl’s father. $$ D pf

EL RINCON CUBAN RESTAURANT 8118 Preston Hwy., 742-2768. Bringing Cuban cuisine to Okolona.

Along with familiar dishes such as arroz con pollo, the menu also includes specialties such as tasajo (braised beef in tomato sauce), ajiaco (a root vegetable stew made with malanga, yucca and corn) and cremas — a variety of pureed vegetable soups. $ L D

PUPUSERIA Y TAQUERIA SANTA ROSA 4231 Taylor Blvd., 368-4353. $ L D

EL TENAMPA BAR & GRILL 5412 Del Maria Way, 493-4053. $ L D p

AMILLIO’S BURRITOS & MORE 4601 Jennings Ln. $BL

HABANA BLUES TAPAS RESTAURANT 148 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-9760. Habana Blues’ extensive Cuban menu has a few international dishes, too, and a nice selection of tapas.

Also a half-dozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a few dinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arroz con pollo. $$ L D pfe

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 4014 Dutchmans Ln., 899-9600, 1907 S. Fourth St., 899-9746. A downtown location joins its Dupont Circle sibling, offering fine fish tacos and simple fast-food Mexican fare in an inexpensive, casual atmosphere. $ L D f 7

HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959, 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana can be found at both locations of this consistently busy Cuban restaurant. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $$ L D p f

TAYLOR G’S JAMAICAN JERK 332 W. Broadway, 587-6127. $$ L D

CAFÉ AROMA 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 618-3434. The menu is billed as “world cuisine with a Mexican flair” but it’s really mostly Mexican and really mostly good, according to our friends in the neighborhood. Affordable, casual and filling. What’s not to like? $ L D CASA FIESTA 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 423-4604. This Mexican restaurant in the Summit area has impressed diners with its clean, modern ambience and its generous portions for reasonable prices. $ L D pf

ZÄD MODERN MEDITERRANEAN 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. Nabil Al-Saba, the owner of Clifton’s The Grape Leaf, has taken over the former location of Pita Delites, updated and refreshed the interior and rebadged it Zäd Modern Mediterranean. The menu will update the usual Middle Eastern version of Mediterranean cuisine, with the addition of some new salads and Mediterranean and Moroccan stews. $$ L D ZOE’S KITCHEN 500 W. Jefferson St., 585-0000, 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963, 3723 Lexington Rd., 409-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now has three Louisville locations. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, roll-ups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ L D 7

J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046, 426 W. Jefferson St., 589-9245, 8603 Citadel Way, 4934720, 3017 Poplar Level Rd., 690-8080,103 Quartermaster Crt., Jeffersonville IN, 282-7823.

Former jockey Billy Fox has created a popular mini-chain serving hearty, affordable Cajun cuisine. After a stint focusing on expansion, he is now back in the saddle and in the kitchen again, to the delight of his fans. The drunken chicken is addictive. $ B L D f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320.

Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style fare is the draw at Joe’s. A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ L D p 7

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music 7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

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CHIPOTLE MEXICAN GRILL 315 S. Fourth St., 5848606, 10333 Westport Rd., 526-5170. With two locations — and a third in the works — this increasingly popular Tex-Mex chain, with an emphasis on cooking with humanely-raised meat products, seems to have struck a chord with consumers. $ L D EL BURRITO DE ORO 1927 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-8820. $ L D h EL CAMINO 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5417. A highconcept melding of tiki bar, southern California surfer hangout and well-crafted Mexican street-food emporium. The sound track features Beach Boy-era surfer music, and the TVs show surfer movies and Mexican wrestling only. In the warmer months, the patio is THE spot to be. $$ Br L D hpf EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1909 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-7174. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ L D p EL MARIACHI 9901 La Grange Rd., 413-5770. Fans of this Mexican restaurant, situated between a bakery and an ethnic grocery, find much to rave about: tacos and burritos made with the bakery’s fresh tortillas, funky authentic fillings, and quick, friendly service. $ B L D p 7 EL MARLIN SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-1777. As genuine a take on Mexican seafood cookery as is possible in land-locked Kentucky. Choose mild or spicy preparations of marlin, tilapia, grouper and snapfish. $$ L D p 7 EL MOLCAJETE 8106 Preston Hwy., 742-3485, 3022 S. Third St., 638-0300. $$ L D hp EL MOLCAJETE 2932 S. Fourth St., 638-0300. You can get gringo-style tacos (with shredded lettuce, cheese & sour cream) at this south-end Mexican joint. But if you come here, why not eat like a native? Lash your pork, beef and chicken tacos with fresh-squeezed lime juice and a heap of sliced radishes. Want to get truly authentic? Step up to beef tongue (lengua), intestine (tripas) or brain (sesos). $$ L D hp EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ L D pf EL NOPAL (19 Locations) These locally owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain that now numbers 19, winning popularity on the basis of delicious and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $ L D pf EL RANCHERO 2918 Hikes Ln,. 410-5668. Formerly El Rey’s, the new owner has spiffed the space up a bit, and aficionados of Mexican food speak well of the nacho grande, tostadas de ceviche and spicierthan-usual queso. $$ L D p EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer St, Jeffersonville IN, 2850109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ D p EL TACO LUCHADOR 938 Baxter Ave., 365-4823.

Chef Fernando Martinez keeps churning out creative, taste and affordable restaurants. This time, a taqueria, in the heart of Baxter Ave.’s restaurant row. You may recognize some taco names, such as carnitas or carne asada, but as the Martinezes have done at their two other restaurants, Guaca Mole and Mussel & Burger Bar, everything gets a clever riff in the kitchen. Call it elevated Mexican street food.

And do try the amazing tortas. $ L D h

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EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 3269373. Add El Tarasco to the happy new genre of restaurants run by Latinos and offering authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, but that reach out to Anglos and make it easy to enjoy a South-of-theBorder culinary adventure without compromise. $ LDp EL TORAZO 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7272.

A family oriented Mexican restaurant joins the choices at this Hurstbourne shopping strip location. All the expected menu items, as well as some more sophisticated dishes, such as 7 mares sopa, a soup with shrimp, scallops and octopus; banderillas, a colorful beef brochette; and chuleta sabrosa, a Durango-style grilled steak. $$ L D pf EL TORITO DE JALISCO 4325 Preston Hwy., 4098138. $$ L D pf EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ L D pf 7 FIESTA TIME AMIGOS 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444. $LDp FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $ L D p GUACA MOLE 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 365-4823.

Fernando Martinez, veteran of Havana Rumba and Mojitos, has graced the East End with his “creative Mexican” restaurant. As the name emphasizes, the menu explores different moles, and the creativity comes with modern twists on classic Mexican dishes. Early buzz is hot, for both the food and the up-to-the-minute cocktail program designed by Martinez’s wife Cristina. $$ Br L D pe HAY CHI WA WAA 808 Lyndon Ln., 883-1924. This Tex-Mex place lives up to its tagline, “Ditch the chains for authentic Mexican.” The menu claims everything is prepared from scratch in generous portions. In addition to fajitas and burritos, there is a “100% Mexicano” section (carne guisada, tacos al carbon), and a fun bar menu, Early word is this place could give the established Latin American restaurants a run for their money. $ L D p LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eatery that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ L D h LA CARRETA 7319 Preston Hwy., 742-1320. A Mexican joint with a bit more interesting menu than some. Look for Texas quail poppers, shrimp diablo, fajita nachos, and botana platter, as well as quesadillas, taquitos and queso. $$ L D h LA HACIENDA GUADALAJARA 4132 Outer Loop, 384-6427. $$ B L D LA POPULAR 2521 Seventh St Rd., 636-3688.$LD p LA RIVIERA MAYA 8104 National Turnpike, 361-3566.

This South End Mexican restaurant is popular with local Latinos, which is always a good sign. Look for gorditas and carne asada, as well as familiar fare like enchiladas. Word is that the horchata is rich and spiced just right. $ L D p LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 8730 Westport Rd., 618-4588, 5059 Preston Hwy., 618-2833, 1404 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 284-1362. For those who crave genuine Mexican tacos, you want them convenient when the urge to scarf one down strikes. These little places will certainly satisfy those cravings. $ L D LA SIERRA RESTAURANT AND TAQUERIA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $

LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small but thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz are completely bilingual, and as friendly as can be. $ D hf LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356.

This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as genuine Mexican as you’ll find. Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel rolls turn a meal here into a real bargain. $ L D f LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Genuine Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a growing immigrant com mu nity.

With fresh bar and blender offerings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ L D pf MANGO’S BAR & GRILL 4632 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291, 1921 Bishop Ln., 749-5300. $$ L D 7 MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán arguably kicked off the restaurant renaissance along E. Market St., in the area now known as Nulu. His stylish bistro serves distinctive cuisine from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula. $$ LD MEXICAN FIESTA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ L D hp PINA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food have another place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $ L D p PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Church Rd., 239-4646. $$ L D p PUJOLS MEXICAN RESTAURANT 9904 Linn Station Rd., 290-5831. You can find a good variety of Mexican dishes here: tacos, empanadas, enchiladas, tortas and special dishes such as tampiquena (grilled flank steak in a creamy hot pepper sauce), milanesa de pollo (breaded chicken breast with cheese and pico de gallo) and even a version of paella. $$ L D h p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (14 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ L D f RAMIRO’S CANTINA 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333.

Ramiro Gandara bought out his partners and gave his mom, Tina Ruton Escajeda, control of the kitchen.

His Mexican restaurant in the heart of Crescent Hill’s restaurant row has a new name and some unique menu items, such as enchiladas verdes, lobster quesadilla, guacamole burger, and shrimp fajitas. And don’t forget Tina’s specialty: scratch-made tamales. Vegetarian choices too, and a full bar. $ L D hpf 7 RIVIERA MAYA MEXICAN CUISINE 2206 Frankfort Ave., 290-3119. This addition in upper Clifton is primarily Mexican, with some menu influences from elsewhere in Latin America. Look for fajitas and tacos with a wide choice of toppings and fillings, including seafood. But the big attraction should be the conchinita pibil — longcooked pork shoulder braised in citrus juices and Mayan spices. $$ L D p ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213 Preston Hwy., 962-8898.

Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Preston looks like another tacqueria but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to

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another level, juicy and succulent and roasted golden brown. Chicken simply doesn’t get any better than this. $ L D hp SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ L D SEÑOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville IN, 280-8555, 3105 S. Second St., 368-0876, 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 425-4581, 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 409-9565, 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 742-1900. This expanding local chain is going upscale, with redesigned crisp modern decor, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casual, comfortable modern atmosphere. Owners want to start a Tequila Trail like our Urban Bourbon Trail. $ L D hpfe SEÑOR TACO 4806 Bardstown Rd., 493-7003. $ L D SIN FRONTERAS 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 292-0901. $$ L D p SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Rd.,459-7776, 520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666, 129 W. Main St., 583-5505, 5612 Bardstown Rd., 618-3430. This expanding chain, founded by Saul Garcia, started down on Main St.’s museum row but now has four stores.

The extensive menu satisfies those who want standard fare like tacos, fajitas and burritos, and also offers more sophisticated fare like salmon and shrimp, steak and several Mexican chicken preparations. $ L D hpf TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year Taco Bell was born in Southern California, the Taco Tico chain had been gone locally for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ L D

TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront.

This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ L D TIENDA LA CHAPINLANDIA 1209 McCawley Rd., 384-7075. If those tiny hole-in-the-wall places are the best for real Mexican food, this little South End place will satisfy Okolona’s need for tacos and burritos. $ L D p WILD RITA’S 445 E. Market St., 584-7482. Downtown gets a new concept from the owners of Wild Eggs: Modern Mexican food and a hundred choices of tequila at the bar. The space at the western edge of NuLu has been vacant since the demise of Mozz, but owners J.D. Rothberg and Shane Hall have created a lively and tasty addition to the growing audience for tacos and tequila. $$ L D hpe YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs IN, 903-0313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana restaurant that offers standard Mexican cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ L D hp

BENITO’S BURRITOS 13301 Magesterial Dr., 3845272. If you find yourself out in the East End past Anchorage, you can pop in to Benito’s for a burrito or quesadilla wrapped in your choice of five tortilla flavors: tomato-basil; jalapeño cheddar; herbvegetable; flour; and whole wheat. Fillings include beef, chicken, steak, shrimp and veggies. $ L D CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Crt., 327-3033, 1440 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-2489. The Austin, Texas “unchain,” has two area locations, offering a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music 7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and TexMex food at reasonable prices. $$ L D hpf 7 MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 893-6637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 1020 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6637, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fastfood Mexican-American than authentic South-ofthe-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ L D SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 365-1424. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Now with two locations, in St. Matthews and Middletown. $ L D f TACO PUNK 736 E. Market St., 584-8226. (See review under Casual Dining) TUMBLEWEED TEX MEX GRILL & MARGARITA BAR (15 locations). Starting as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany, Tumbleweed grew to become an area favorite serving bold, southwest-inspired food such as burritos, spicy chile con queso, mesquitegrilled steaks, fish and chicken. Each Tumbleweed Margarita Bar offers two dozen tequila varieties and dozens of sweet and tangy margarita combinations.

Sip one while savoring the river-view at its flagship River Road location. $ L D hp

ARGO SONS COFFEE 3640 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-9396. This roastery is mostly a wholesale business, but there is a classic espresso bar, so you can run in, buy a few pounds of beans and have a nice cuppa. No crullers or Danish, though. $

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BEAN STREET COFFEE CO. 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1404. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $ COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-2633. $ f DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an oldfashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ h f HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE (13 locations) With the absorption of the VINT outlets, Heine Bros. asserts their dominance in the local brewing scene. The stores are always friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches. $ h fe HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ h f THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1458. HobKnobb offers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ fe

frappes. On Friday and Saturday nights sit down and puff on a hookah until 2 a.m. $ h f SONOMA COFFEE CAFÉ 3309 Poplar Level Rd., 3840044. The first outlet in Kentucky of this franchise coffeteria. Rich pastries and smoothies are available along with the coffee $ STARBUCKS COFFEE (35 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820, 231 S. Fifth St., 589-3222. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee. $ e TAZZA MIA 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy. (Ramada Plaza Hotel), 499-9719. The Cincinnati-based coffee shop joins the food options at the Ramada Plaza in eastern Jefferson County. Patrons can find breakfast pastries such as Danishes and muffins along with the house-roasted coffees. $ VINT COFFEE 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060, Now owned by Heine Bros. this Crescent Hill location is the only one that keeps the name that reflects the concept that all their beverages — coffee, tea, ale and wine — will “have a vintage, an annual release cycle.” $ f

JAVA BREWING COMPANY 4828 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 339-4744, 1707 Bardstown Rd., 384-3555.

These casual spots boasts the ambience of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ fe

2 DIPS AND A SHAKE 321 W. Main St., 566-3258.

Got an ice cream craving? Specifically a Comfy Cow craving but you don’t have the time to rush from downtown to the ’burbs to sate it? Then visit this spot across the street from Actors Theater to get your fix. $ f

KAELIN’S COFFEEHOUSE 1801 Newburg Rd., 6322818. This bright addition to the breakfast and caffeine needs of the west side of the Highlands is physically attached to Mulligan’s Bar, which, of course, squats in the space forever to be known as “the old Kaelin’s.” Strong coffee, pleasant service and breakfast choices, from bagels to egg sandwiches, have made it a hit. $ B L

ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f

LOUISVILLE TEA COMPANY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 365-2516. Teas of all sorts, pastries and cookies make for a perfect morning snack the English call “elevenses.” $ B L MRS. POTTER’S COFFEE 718 W. Main St., 581-1867. $ f PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN 218-0611.$ PLEASE AND THANK YOU 800 E. Market St. This little coffee house with a difference serves breakfast and lunch, and offers an eclectic selection of vinyl records, which can be sampled in a listening room.

Try the ganache latte, Thai iced coffee, granola parfait, Capriole cheese with honey and grapes on a baguette, or a field greens salad with dried cherries and blue cheese. $f QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129, 327 W. Cardinal Blvd., 690-5553, 137 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-3426. Fans of this local purveyor of excellent coffee and provider of amenable working spaces can find their caffeine fix and wi-fi hotspot at any of the three locations. $ f RED HOT ROASTERS 1402 Payne St., 569-0000, 901 S. Fourth St. (Spalding University), 585-9911.

Drive-through the original take-away joint (entrance off Lexington Rd.) or walk into the little space at Spalding, for your morning latte, coldbrewed iced coffee drinks., or excellent whole beans roasted on the premises. $ SISTER BEAN’S 5225 New Cut Rd., 364-0082. $ f SMOKEY’S BEAN 1451 S. First St., 749-6900. Located on the corner of 1st and Burnett, this coffeehouse and sandwich shop gives good choices to Old Louisville residents. Locally roasted coffee plus

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ANNIE MAY’S SWEETS CAFÉ 3110 Frankfort Ave., 384-2667. The only gluten and nut-free bakery in the state caters to customers with dietary issues such as celiac disease and allergies. Cookies, brownies, cakes, pies, wedding cakes all made without wheat, dairy, eggs, soy or tree nuts. Arrive early, before the vegan and allergen-free oatmeal cream pie cookies sell out. $ 7 THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is part of the culinary program at Sullivan University. It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ BREAD AND BREAKFAST 157 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 725-5983. Baker Laura Buckingham made a solid reputation selling her artisan baked goods at a roadside stand and at farmers markets.

Now she’s moved to downtown New Albany building where she makes breads, scones, muffins and savory items such as cheese panini with bacon, pepperoni or spinach, strata and bacon cinnamon rolls. $ B L BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ B CAKE FLOUR 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 425-0130. This little bakery, with its all-natural ethos and locavore connections, has moved to the East End, and expanded its breakfast and lunch options beyond savory scones into bacon and egg biscuit sandwiches, catered box breakfasts for offices and large quiches by pre-order. Lunch offerings include stuffed croissant sandwiches and soups, and a new espresso bar is there to deliver a fresh jolt. $ f

CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 1201 Story Ave., 5612940, 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall Kiosk).

Erika Chavez-Graziano continues her chocolate explorations at her artsy shop in the Butchertown Market building on Story Ave., as well as at a kiosk in Oxmoor Mall. Look for esoteric, but luscious, inventive chocolate confections such as beer flavored truffles and avocado soft-centers. $ THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979, 2223 Frankfort Ave., 409-4616, 339 W. Cardinal Blvd., 409-5090, 109 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 924-7197, 1449 Bardstown Rd., 365-2853. This “new-fashioned” ice-cream parlor made an immediate splash in its original Westport Village location with its intriguing range of flavors (salted caramel, fresh roasted coffee, peanut peanut butter butter). Now fans can also find their favorite flavors popping up all over town as new outlets open in the Highlands and New Albany. $ hf THE CUPCAKE SHOPPE 3701 Lexington Rd., 8992970. You won’t need three guesses to name the specialty at this little St. Matthews bakery, which has gained instant popularity for its wide variety of moist, tender cupcakes, always made in house. $ DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 368-9280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate wrapped in choux pastry are also available. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 3500 Frankfort Ave., 451-7151.

Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $$ DINO’S BAKERY 4162 Bardstown Rd., 493-2396. Dino Ghazawi, whose family owned a bakery in his native Jordan, has renovated space in the Buechel Plaza Shopping Center, installed three ovens for baking pita, French and Italian bread and pies. Many of those are sold wholesale, but retail shoppers can get locally made fresh pita and other Middle Eastern groceries. $ B DUNKIN DONUTS 1250 Bardstown Rd., 290-3865.

You will find hot sandwiches as well as doughnuts and coffee, just what you need to get you going in the morning or to get you steady enough to get home at night. $ B L h THE FUDGERY 416 S Fourth St.(Fourth Street Live), 409-7484.$ GELATO GILBERTO 9434 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-7751. Justin and Kristin Gilbert so loved the gelato they ate as students in Italy that they returned there after graduating to study gelato making. Their popular store draws fans out to Norton Commons, though owners can often be found scooping cones and cups at special events. Their store menu includes pies and crepes as well. $ h GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4994998. The first outpost of the Tennessee bakery chain in Kentucky, this little shop offers a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $ GREAT HARVEST BREAD COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-8573 $ B L HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 1041 Bardstown Rd., 618-3380, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 267-6280, 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606

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Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 3113 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 590-3580, 2232 Frankfort Ave., 409-6100. $ L D hf HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this down-homey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ B

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JASMIN BAKERY 2201 Steier Ln., 458-0013. This “European-style” bakery has moved to more upscale digs but continues to offer fresh breads and rolls, as well as an ecclectic menu Eastern Mediterranean fare, such as gyros and baklava, at reasonable prices. $ B L D f

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MARLYCE’S PLACE 1404 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 551-5577. A Triangle Center stop for anyone needing a sweets fix. Come in to see the line up of elaborately decorated cakes, custom cookies, cupcakes, pies, fudge and sweet breads. Need a cake in the shape of an enchanted castle for your little princess’s birthday? Call Marlyce. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 4269645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ B NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This old-school, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true, bacon. $ B PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your handdecorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ B

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QUIZNOS 223 S. FIFTH STREET (502) 589-5520

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MAC & CHEESE • MAC & CHEESE WITH BACON • CHICKEN PESTO MAC & CHEESE WITH LOBSTER & SEAFOOD • MEATBALL MARINARA ©2014 QIP Holder LLC. All rights reserved. “Quiznos” and related marks are property of QIP Holder LLC.

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STATE DONUTS 12907 Factory Ln., 409-8825. $ SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite donut by mid-morning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ B SWEET FROG 10494 Westport Rd., 423-3993, 1401 Veterans Parkway Ct., Clarksville IN, 725-7765, 5909 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-3535, 1987 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-9964. The hook here is a wall of live-culture self-serve yogurt dispensers. A toppings bar includes sprinkles, chocolate and butterscotch sauces, graham crackers — and on and on. $ B SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. This long-time southern Indiana home-style bakery is noted for baked goods just like your grandmother made. Its specialty: painted sugar cookies, with designs in white chocolate that change with the seasons and holidays.

Also custom cookie and cake designs. $ B SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 899-2008.

Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts. $$ hf SWEETS & SUCH BAKERY 3947 Dixie Hwy., 4491008. A Shively area neighborhood bakery.

Cupcakes and cookies, brownies and cake, but its renown stems from the Presidential donut, a cream-filled concoction that won Bill Clinton’s admiration. $ WILLIAM’S BAKERY 1051 N. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN, 284-2867. $ B WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 581-8561 (See listing under Cafés.)

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music 7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

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MAP INDEX

MAP INDEX

MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 downtown louisville 85 NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill 86 NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews 87 SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel 88 EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage 89 EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown 90 NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport 90 FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder NA NEW MAP 9 under construction 91 NORTH EAST 10 prospect 91 SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek 92 SOUTH WEST 12 shively – pleasure ridge 93 SOUTH 13 old louisville – airport 94 INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs 95 INDIANA 15 clarksville 95 INDIANA 16 jeffersonville

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(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON

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(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN

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(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER

(NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT

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(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK

(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT

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(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE

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MAP • 13 (SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2014 93

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(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS

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(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

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