Spring 2022 (Vol. 73)

Page 1

Cover Pages_Spring22_Ed.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 2/25/22 3:30 PM Page 1


Cover Pages_Spring22_Ed.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 2/25/22 3:30 PM Page 2


Contents_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 3/1/22 2:25 AM Page 1


Contents_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 3/1/22 2:26 AM Page 2


Contents_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 3/1/22 2:26 AM Page 3


Contents_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 3/1/22 2:26 AM Page 4

SPRING 2022

PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MARTY ROSEN EXECUTIVE EDITOR RON MIKULAK WEB EDITOR ROGER BAYLOR PHOTOGRAPHERS DAN DRY ANDY HYSLOP HEATHER WIBBELS COLUMNISTS SARA HAVENS RON MIKULAK SUSAN REIGLER MARTY ROSEN HEATHER WIBBELS FEATURE WRITERS ROGER BAYLOR MARTY ROSEN ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD GRAPHIC DESIGN & PRODUCTION ED ROTHER, ER GRAPHICS JOHN CARLOS WHITE

Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 502.509.EATS (3287)

www.foodanddine.com socialmedia@foodanddine.com facebook.com/foodanddine @FoodAndDining

For advertising information call 502.509.3287 (EATS)

Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. *Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.

ON THE COVER

Shrimp Tempura Roll from Dragon King’s Daughter (page 32). Photo by Dan Dry. 4

Spring 2022

www.foodanddine.com


Contents_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 3/1/22 2:26 AM Page 5

contents SPRING 2022 | VOLUME 73

RESTAURANT GUIDE

38 | Dining Guide 74 | Maps

Our comprehensive list of Louisville eateries is a unique and essential tool for area diners.

(RESTAURANT LOCATOR)

Location is everything for diners and for restaurateurs — and our one-of-a kind maps cover the entire Metro region.

FEATURES

14 | 32 |

PROFILE | I Love Tacos After opening during the worst month in U.S. restaurant history, vision, savvy, teamwork — and a fresh approach — has spurred success.

PROFILE | Dragon King’s Daughter An innovative fusion of Japanese and Latin cuisine blends tradition and cosmopolitan flair and outstanding fare.

COLUMNS Starters COMINGS & GOINGS | 6

A summary of changes in the local restaurant scene — with openings, closings, changes and more.

THE LOCAL | Check’s Cafe | 10

Time doesn't quite stand still at this Germantown gem, but the essentials — a neighborly vibe and old school cookery still thrive.

Liquids

12 | 20 | 26 |

BAR BELLE | The ebb and flow of the local bar scene Nobody brings a keener eye (and a wittier sensibility) to Louisville’s tavern life than our very own Bar Belle!

COCKTAIL CONTESSA | Derby day cocktails Derby is back, and it should be more social than the last couple of years, so here are some cocktail ideas.

BOURBON | Craft Whiskey Tradition may rule in the world of whiskey — but innovation is part of that tradition — and creative contemporary makers are building on it.

Food

22 | 28 |

EASY ENTERTAINING | Cajun seafood boil Louisville’s connections to Louisiana date back a couple of centuries — here’s a way to cook up some culinary history.

COOKING WITH RON | Spring’s bounty The tender tastes and textures of local spring produce only last for a brief period — but for home cooks it’s heavenly. www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022

5


Comings & Goings_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 2:43 AM Page 6

starters | comings & goings

comings & goings

BY RON MIKULAK

Although we have had two years of pandemic disruption affecting all aspects of our lives, as I write this, the sense of a possible return to our normal living patterns seems to be spreading. One aspect of the normal activities we once took for granted, eating out at sit-down restaurants, has stabilized somewhat this past winter. While some restaurants are still closed, Food and Dining has discovered that 25 new restaurants have opened since our Winter issue, and 20 businesses have closed permanently, a ratio quite in keeping with the pre-pandemic churn in the restaurant business. Such numbers are not, perhaps, cause for rejoicing about dining out, but the slight preponderance of the newly opened over the recently closed is at least cause for letting out a sigh of relief. In such parlous times, we need to be thankful for any sign of hope. We can express our thanks best by patronizing local restaurants, old and new. Let’s go out to eat. NEW TABLES

If you’ve become shack-wacky by isolating and hunkering down, there’s a good reason for a little road trip down to the Jim Beam Distillery. First, take a distillery tour, then head for The Kitchen Table (522 Happy Hollow Rd., Clermont, Kentucky), the new destination dining spot at the distillery where your group can share duck poppers or smoked whole wings, then chow down on burgoo, pulled pork sliders, hot smoked trout or pizza. Get a box of bourbon balls for the trip back. If you need breakfast before such a road trip, stop first at Big Bad Breakfast (984 Barret Ave.), the first Kentucky outlet of a regional Oxford, Mississippi-based chain, which has moved into the space that will forever be known as “the old Lynn’s Paradise Café.” The extensive breakfast and lunch menus play upon various southern food traditions: a Creole omelet, chicken and waffles, huevos rancheros and a fried oyster scramble. After that fun road trip, you might want to just nurse a cocktail and chill looking out at the city. The ideal place is Copper & Kings Rooftop Bar and Restaurant (1121 E. Washington

St.). Try a drink made with one of the craft spirits produced in the handsome copper pot stills, and snack on salmon tartine or a sesame scallion pancake. The outwardly nondescript brick building that previously housed short-lived Mr. Lee’s, has been handsomely redesigned and renovated as North of Bourbon (935 Goss Ave.), a name that plays up the historical connection of Louisville and NOLA. There’s an extensive bourbon selection, some innovative bourbon cocktails, and NOLA-inspired lunch and dinner menus: po’boys, crawfish boudin balls, red beans and rice, and smothered catfish. Fernando Martinez’s Olé Restaurant Group has closed the East End location of Guaca Mole Cocina Mexicana and, after a beautiful renovation and major upgrades, relocated the modern Mexican restaurant to NuLu (900 E. Market St.) in the former Rye space. They also retooled the name. It’s now called Guacamole Modern Mexican. There are tacos and enchiladas, but also a selection of moles, seafood dishes and Mexican specialties such as the tamal Oaxaqueño and enfrijoladas. After the long delay typical of the snags and snafus that plague many new restaurants, Goodfellas Pizzeria (642 Baxter Continued on page 8

6 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com


Comings & Goings_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 2:43 AM Page 7

comings & goings | starters

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 7


Comings & Goings_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 10:58 AM Page 8

starters | comings & goings

Ave.) is finally open. The pizza style is New York thin crust. The names of specialty pies refer to gangster lingo: the Wiseguy, the Don, the Boss and Fuhgetabout it. The last comes with every topping available. The corner of S. Second and W. Breckinridge streets has never looked so crisply maintained. The long renovation of the sprawling Kroger grocery that once occupied that space into Noble Funk Brewery (922 S. Second St.) is now complete. Look for two dozen taps including some serving kombucha. A sister business, Noble Hearth Pizza, serves thin-crust pizzas, and outside there is seating, a putting green and concrete pingpong tables. Also near downtown, located inside the Omni Louisville Hotel, JJ Bakes & Co. (210 W. Liberty St.) offers a variety of instore only desserts such as French macarons, cookies, brownies and breakfast items. But elaborately constructed wedding cakes and other specialty desserts are what won up and coming bakery owner Jackie Joseph the title of Food Network’s “Best Baker in America” in 2021. Several new bars accommodate a range of imbibing choices. Neat Bourbon Bar + Bottle Shop (1139 Bardstown Rd.) takes advantage of a state law that permits the resale of vintage liquors that are no longer available from distributors. There are 30 contemporary bourbon brands available and several hundred vintage, discontinued or historically interesting labels, by the drink or by the bottle. Jared Matthews continues building his varied St. Matthews restaurant empire, adding the former Diamond Pub and Billiards, where he began his restaurant career, to his portfolio of Equus, Jack’s Lounge, and Lou Lou Food & Drink. He has reconceived that space as The Fox Den (3814 Frankfort Ave.), but it will still be a sports bar with plenty of games to play as well as to watch — 11 billiards tables, darts, pinball and live music every night. Matthews is shooting for an April 22 opening. Out in Middletown Barrel 33 Tavern & Grill (14049 Shelbyville Rd.) serves lunch and dinner. Barbecue and fried chicken are specialties, along with pub grub standards like cream cheese poppers and pretzel bread and beer cheese. Barrel 33 also has a strong bourbon selection and live music some nights. A few new Mexican restaurants have opened their doors. The fifth location of Gustavo’s Mexican Grill (401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy.) is now serving in the Hurstbourne neighborhood. Felipe’s Mexican Restaurant’s (4000 Dutchmans Ln.) second location is dishing out in St. Matthews and Taqueria El Mexicano (7611 Preston Hwy.) has opened as well. Several other new ethnic restaurants have opened too. The popular Peruvian-style Carali’s Rotisserie Chicken now has an outlet north of the river in Clarksville (703 E. Lewis and Clark Pkwy.). 8 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

The popular food truck All Thai’d Up (211 S. Fifth St.) has found a downtown site for its no-holds-barred, no-heat-gradations, this-is-how-we-eat-it-in-Thailand dishes. So be sure of what you are ordering. Melt 502 (6318 Bardstown Rd.) offers Fern Creek residents a range of sandwiches and egg rolls with unusual combinations of ingredients and named after hip-hop singers. The Old Louisville corner building that has had several identities over the years, most recently as Toonerville Deli, is now Neon Pizza (1201 S. First St.), though it still serves Toonerville Deli’s most popular soups, salads and sandwiches as well. Backside at Whiskey Row (108 W. Washington St.), the sister space to Side Bar at Whiskey Row, replaces the Hall on Washington. The menu returns to American bar food. Anchorage is where you can now find the second outlet of Ten20 Craft Brewery (11505 Park Rd.). Pleasure Ridge Park gets a new drive-through coffee joint with the opening of Scooters Coffee (9060 Dixie Hwy.). And Clarksville gets a seafood boil emporium with The Juicy Crab (970 E. Lewis and Clark Pkwy.). Two niche businesses have opened. Across the river in Jeffersonville Bocce Bowl (125 W. Chestnut St.) serves healthful ethnic-inspired bowls which you can eat while playing or watching games on the two bocce courts. At the Glow Worm Play Café (962 Barret Ave.) parents can let their kids play in a supervised space while they visit or work in the fullservice café.

CLOSINGS

Most of the restaurants that closed since December are relatively new businesses that never found the steady clientele restaurants need.The only restaurant that’s closed after a good run at its attractive Old Louisville space is Amici (316 W. Ormsby Ave.). All of the Covid-related issues compounded to prompt Amici’s closure. In the Highlands, Faces Bar/Bistro (1604 Bardstown Rd.) struggled to find its focus, changing its menu from eclectic small plates to pizzas by the pie or the slice, but nothing clicked, and owner/chef Eric Morris decided to close. An effort to reimagine the St. Matthews space that was the original BBC brewery and restaurant into an upscale, glitzy bar and event space did not last long; The Ainsworth (3929 Shelbyville Rd.) has closed. Another restaurant concept that couldn’t quite find its audience is Ostra (1758 Frankfort Ave.). The funkily handsome but hard-to-notice building opened just before the pandemic stopped indoor dining. Ostra tried again this year, but a variety of economic factors piled up, prompting its final closure. In New Albany, The Standard Plate and Pour (207 E. Main St.) has closed.


Comings & Goings_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 2:44 AM Page 9

comings & goings | starters

Other restaurants that have closed permanently include Diamond Pub and Billiards (630 Barrett Ave.) in the silos; The Falafel House (1001 Bardstown Rd.) in the Highlands; Scooters Triple B’s (3840 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy.); and El Chuletón (7611 Preston Hwy.). Several short-lived businesses have thrown in the towel. The Fuelery (2011 Frankfort Ave.) opened at the wrong time, according to its owners, and couldn’t find a consistent customer base in Clifton and Crescent Hill for its healthful menu items. The two Million’s Crab locations (4600 Shelbyville Rd. and 12951 Shelbyville Rd.) have closed, the first businesses to decide that the recent explosion of seafood boil joints might have overdone it. Hoss Boss Wings and Ribs (1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy.), which operated as a ghost kitchen in the Boombozz Pizza restaurant there, has been scuttled after the pizza restaurant went back to full service. In Old Louisville Garden Girl Foods (501 W. Oak St.) struggled with a variety of problems and decided to close. A bit south of old Louisville, in the Beechmont neighborhood, La Chandeleur (304 W. Woodlawn Ave.), a creperie, also faced a formidable array of business challenges until they became too much to cope with.

The original Guaca Mole Cocina Mexicana location (9921 Ormsby Station Rd.) closed, but as previously noted fans of the modern Mexican menu can find it and more at the restaurant’s new location on the corner of Market and Campbell Streets in NuLu. Four other restaurants closed so the owners could develop new concepts, including the previously mentioned Diamond Pub and Billiards (3814 Frankfort Ave.), now The Fox Den. Checks BBQ & Blues (14049 Shelbyville Rd.) has severed its nominal connection to the classic Germantown Checks Cafe (except for a few favorite menu items) to become Barrel 33 Tavern & Grill. The former rooftop bar and restaurant at Copper and Kings Distillery, Alex&nder (1121 E. Washington St.), is now Copper and Kings Rooftop Bar and Restaurant. The Toonerville Deli (1201 S. First St.) is now Neon Pizza, but still includes some fanfavorite deli dishes.

MOVES & CHANGES

And finally, the actual shack of Shack in the Back BBQ (10706 Manslick Rd.) has been razed by new owners of the land. But the business, a fixture for 15 years in Fairdale, has moved to another Fairdale location, 406 Mount Holly Rd. F&D

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 9


The Local_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 3/1/22 2:47 AM Page 10

starters | the local BY MARTY ROSEN | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

S

The Local

The Local celebrates the places that make Louisville Metro feel like home, whether old or new, traditional or innovative.

ometime in the late seventies my brother Jim, who had recently moved to Milton Street in Germantown, lured me to a place called Check’s Café with an outlandish tale about overflowing bowls of real, honest-to-pork, homemade bean soup that could be had for a quarter — leaving us with extra dough to squander on, say, beer. Everything was cheaper in the 70s, but not that cheap. And not that good. I came for the bean soup, then stayed for the fried fish. Went back for the fried chicken. And eventually got to know the menu up and down. And I got to know the rhythm of the restaurant — especially the alternating days on which fish and chicken were sold (and I rejoiced the year they added an extra fryer and both options were on offer every day of the week). Prices have risen over the last forty years. But apart from that, when my wife, Mary and I, accompanied by her cousin Danny (who lives just down the street) dropped in for our first visit since… well, you know…. I felt pretty much like the opposite of Rip Van Winkle: nothing important had changed. Yes, there’s a digital menu — but the listings still include pan-fried oysters and chicken livers and bratwurst. And on certain days you can have brats and sauerkraut and Salisbury steak. To reiterate: nothing important had changed. People were still queuing (though somewhat more generously spaced) under the “Order Here” sign to get their meals started and pick up their beverages (including a vastly larger selection of beers than 40 years ago). Then they retired to their tables, greeted friends and neighbors and waited for the moment when someone bearing a tray stepped in from the kitchen hollering out the name on the ticket. It was all rambunctious. And neighborly. And just…plain…fun. Despite the fact that we didn’t really know anyone, it felt to me as if everyone there had been there forever — just waiting for us to drop by. And though we had dropped in late in the afternoon to avoid the rush, it was a pleasure to watch as people drifted in. In fine weather there’s good outdoor seating, by the way. Check’s still feels as it did 40 years ago — despite the fact that seemingly everything around it has changed. Many Germantown institutions — legendary places like Flabby’s — have disappeared. Housing costs have escalated as a younger generation has moved into the old shotgun house neighborhoods. But Check’s holds its course. These days Check’s is helmed by John Murrow who can trace the history of the business back to its origins in 1941, when Chester (Check) Sumser first opened the place that bears his name. In 1944, the bar changed hands: Murrow’s grandfather John T. Murrow, and his long-time partner Barney Dillman operated it for decades (and Murrow’s grandmother Mary first brought food into the picture). Then came the second generation — Murrow’s father (also named John) and his aunts. And now it’s a thirdgeneration operation — with a fourth-generation already getting involved

10 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

John Murrow


The Local_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 3/1/22 2:47 AM Page 11

the local | starters in what by any measure is one of the city’s great legacies. I asked today’s John Murrow how Check’s has stayed the course through this era, especially in a Germantown area that many see as a classic case of “gentrification.” He explained, “I think it’s actually gentrified back into what it was. When my grandpa was alive, the Germantown area was blue-collar hard-working people whose children did other things. My grandfather was a bartender and bar owner, and my dad became a doctor.” And many members of that second generation, says Murrow, still come back to Check’s even though they may not live in the neighborhood. In addition, he notes that historically Germantown was always a solidly prosperous neighborhood. “Maybe the houses were $20,000 back in the day. But the people who lived here were making good wages. They were in good factory jobs. They were electricians and plumbers, lawyers, judges, doctors, whatever. So the mentality may have changed, and the kinds of jobs, but the people who are moving back in are also people who are right back in that same kind of middle-class area, so I think it’s going back to where it was.” Murrow also noted that beginning around the time of the 2008 economic crisis, there was a wave of people who decided they wanted to live closer to town and work, and found Germantown an excellent location. “Those people find their way to us,” he said. Lucky for them — and lucky for any Louisvillian or out-of-town visitor who is

hungry for an authentic taste of Louisville tradition in a place that doesn’t have to fake it, because history was being made here back in the long-ago days when Check’s was home to illegal pinochle games and backroom bookies were regularly getting busted throughout the neighborhood. As for the food, it hasn’t changed either. If you think “comfort food” is a thing of the past, I’m here to tell you you’re just plain wrong. The past isn’t past — it’s just holding out at Check’s. If “Americana” were a food genre, the dish known as a “hot roast beef sandwich” would be exhibit A: I’m talking tender slices of freshly roasted beef served atop white bread next to mashed potatoes — all sluiced with a rich brown gravy and accompanied by your choice from a list of side dishes. Brussels sprouts, anyone? It’s my official view that the Rolled Oyster is — and ought to be — Louisville’s Official Dish. It was invented here in the late 1800s by the brothers Mazzoni: fresh oysters fried up in a sphere of cornmeal batter and served with a piquant cocktail sauce. The Check’s version is crisp and sensuous, and about as good as bar food gets. In fact, execution is top-notch across the range: great salmon croquettes with creamed peas were a blast from the past. Check’s famous fried fish is still justly famous, as is the rich Louisville-style chili served with spaghetti. Go. Order under the sign. Wait. Someone will call your name. F&D

Check’s Cafe

1101 E. Burnett Avenue 502.637.9515 www.checkscafe.com

Open-face roast beef sandwich

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022

11


Bar Belle_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 2:52 AM Page 12

liquids | the bar belle

Belle B elle

The

Bar

The ebb&flow of the Louisville bar scene BY SARA HAVENS AKA THE BAR BELLE

here are unfortunate things we Louisvillians know we will have to endure year after year. Along with the three-day Derby hangover, a shady college basketball program, year-round allergies and nonstop bridge maintenance, our booming food and drink scene will go through the typical ebb and flow of a thriving industry. That means doors will close and we will grieve. But eventually, life will springeth forward, and something new will replace the old.

T

That means doors will close and we will grieve. But eventually, life will springeth forward, and something new will replace the old. It’s what they call nature. The circle of life. Or survival of the fittest. I’m no philosopher, but I will quote famous French dude Henri Bergson, who once said, “To exist is to change, to change is to mature, to mature is to go on creating oneself endlessly.” Now, he wasn’t talking about Mr. Lee’s in Germantown, but he damn well could have been. That exotic little cocktail bar sadly closed last year, tears were shed, but something new quickly seized space, and now you can literally sit and sip inside a giant whiskey barrel at North of Bourbon while stuffing your face with beignets. Mr. Lee’s never had beignets or giant oak barrels or even a light bright enough to read the menu. Change is inevitable. And change is always a-comin’ whether you’re ready for it or not. So in this space, I’d like to pour out a little love for the bars we lost last year and shine some light on new establishments that are ready to Keep Louisville Lit. This is by no means a complete list of closures and openings. For that, please turn back a few pages and read “Comings & Goings.” And as we move further into 2022, let’s all collectively pray that someone buys the vacant Mellow Mushroom building in the Highlands and 12 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

opens up a sports bar. Nothing too fancy, please. Maybe something along the lines of Nick’s in Bloomington?

GOODBYE:

Spring Street Bar & Grill • Ah, the memories. I spent so much time here before concerts at Headliners, or watching football/basketball games, or just munching on potato skins and wings while drowning my worries with pitchers of beer. Someone please buy the building and open this back up!

Dish on Market • I’ll never forget the hangover I tried to mend here the morning after completing the Urban Bourbon Trail in one night. Everything on the menu tasted great, but nothing came close to alleviating that pain … until I ordered an Old fashioned.

Mr. Lee’s • Loved the vibe of this place and treating myself to a nice cocktail when I felt like being fancy. That treat was few and far between, unfortunately.

Tryangles • Nothing like a dive-y gay bar to get you ready for the Pride Parade. Pre-gaming before the parade was always a fun time, and while I was never a regular here because I didn’t have the right parts, it seemed like a chill place to hang out. Rye On Market • Such a great concept here, and the talent behind the operation was extraordinary. The drinks were top-notch and the food was memorable. I think Covid was solely responsible on this one.

Lilly’s • I know you lifelong Louisvillians lament this one, but I didn’t go often sadly. I did have some great cocktails there once or twice, but that’s all I can say. Hop Cat • I’m sorry, I’m allergic to cats and mediocre chain food.

HELLO:

Neat Bourbon Bar & Bottle Shop • It’s all about vintage whiskey here, and that’s a cool way to set yourself apart from the uptick of bourbon bars in the area. What? You’ve never tried a Maker’s Mark from 1972? You are truly missing out. The comfortable, dim confines are nestled right off Bardstown Road. Like Vegas, you could spend hours here and not know if it’s morning, noon or night.


Bar Belle_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 2:52 AM Page 13

the bar belle | liquids North of Bourbon • This spot took over Mr. Lee’s in Germantown, and the owners combined their passion for quality bourbon and New Orleans fare to create this hip little neighborhood joint.You can literally sip bourbon inside a huge bourbon barrel table, and that’s a win in my book!

Darling’s • You can’t say we’re only obsessed with bourbon, because this hip yet unpretentious little gin bar recently opened in the Highlands and has gotten many people to think beyond the brown spirits. Owned by the same team that runs High Horse, this bar is perfect for a date night — or just catching up with friends.

Goodfellas Pizzeria • This Lexingtonbased pizza company has it all figured out: damn fine pizza and expertly crafted cocktails. I was thrilled when they set their sights on Louisville, because I was blown away by their food and drinks at their Lexington and Covington locations. This just might force our mainstays to do better. I’m talking to you, Wick’s Highlands.

Square Cut Pizza • While Goodfellas focuses on New York-style pizza, Square Cut in Shelby Park takes us to Italy with its Roman-style pie. Charcuterie and chianti go hand in hand here — or is it hand to mouth? It’s a little on the upscale side, but there’s also local beer and a happy hour that runs from Tuesday-Friday.

The Local Seltzery • NuLu Marketplace is the perfect spot for this seltzerific establishment because what it does is gives people options. If you’re not feeling like beer from West Sixth, swing over here for a bubbly flight of interesting flavors. I admit I felt more like I was in a froyo shop than a bar, but some of the low-cal fizzy concoctions were a nice break from beer and bourbon.

The Fox Den • I’m looking forward to seeing what restauranteur Jared Fox Matthews has in store for the old Diamond Pub in St. Matthews. As you know, he’s going to give it a much needed makeover — a few spritzes of Botox and maybe a filler or two — and rename it The Fox Den. It’ll still have the sports-bar theme, but both the pub grub and cocktail menu will be elevated. Also, this is a bonus, there will be live music seven days a week! With Gerstle’s right across the street, that little nook of St. Matthews just might be our miniature Music Row. F&D www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 13


I Love Tacos_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 2:54 AM Page 14

profile | i love tacos

A Taco Triumph in Tough Times y 2019, Ernesto Rivera had established a decades-long record of success in the world of food and dining. Since the early 1990s he had found success both in the corporate world and as an individual entrepreneur. He’d been born in Puebla, Mexico and raised in San Antonio, Texas, in a household where everybody in the busy family was involved in the kitchen — the cleaning, shopping, and cooking, and where his older sister Rosalia inspired his passion for cooking and his ambition to pursue it as a career. And in San Antonio — which food historians consider the historical epicenter of what we now call Tex-Mex cuisine — he absorbed the essence of that city’s distinctive approach to flavors, textures, spices, chilies, and presentation. And in San Antonio he earned a business degree. In his twenties, Rivera moved to Atlanta, where he took a position with the man he calls his mentor, Norberto Sanchez, founder of what has grown into a thriving multi-faceted restaurant and media enterprise that includes a mix of newspapers, radio stations, and restaurants. It was Sanchez who first sent Rivera to Louisville in 1990, as part of the opening team for the old El Caporal restaurant on Preston Highway. El Caporal, it turned out, was something of a turning point in Louisville’s dining scene. Ronni Lundy, then the C-J/Times dining reviewer, dubbed it one of

B

BY MARTY ROSEN | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

14 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

the best Mexican restaurants in the city, and in an era when Louisville’s Mexican cuisine was still largely defined by the Americanized approach of places like local favorite Tumbleweed, El Caporal’s Tex-Mex approach — and dishes like red-hot Chile Colorado — were changing the views of critics and diners alike.


I Love Tacos_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 11:02 AM Page 15

i love tacos | profile

(left to right) Al pastor taco, tinga taco, battered fish taco.

15


I Love Tacos_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 2:54 AM Page 16

profile | i love tacos

Owners Alfredo Garcia (left) and Ernesto Rivera.

By 1998, when he was in his late 20s, Rivera was ready to pursue his ambition to strike out on his own. Sanchez agreed to sell him the El Caporal location in Middletown, and then the location on Preston — and once again positive reviews started flowing in. From the beginning of his career as an independent restaurateur, it was clear that Rivera had ambitious notions of what a “Mexican” restaurant could be, not just in terms of the cuisine, but in terms of the vibe and atmosphere. He used skylights, bright murals, and lighting to build a southwestern look, and programmed a busy schedule of live music that carved out a distinctive and successful niche that established Ernesto’s (the renamed El Caporal) as arguably the most popular Mexican restaurant in the city at that time and spurred a decade of expansion to seven locations. Then came the economic crisis of 2008 — and Rivera decided to make another shift — this time to YUM! Brands, where he was for the first time exposed to the tools, metrics, and procedures used by large corporations. After a successful stint there, he moved on to RNDC — Republic National Distributing Company — one of the country’s largest wholesale distributors of beverage alcohol. And in that role, he was instrumental in transitioning oodles of Hispanic-owned Mexican restaurants away from box wines and into successful and serious wine programs. So, to reiterate: by 2019 Ernesto Rivera had hands-on experience and a vast perspective on pretty much every dimension of the food and dining business. He had a deep love of cooking and cuisine. He had decades of hands-on kitchen experience. He had a deep understanding of business practices, metrics, and planning. And because he himself had been mentored by many leaders, he appreciated the importance of mentoring and nurturing the people he worked with. In 2019 when a former Ernesto’s employee named Alfredo Garcia approached him and mentioned that he was interested in getting into the business, Rivera listened — and the two decided to partner up. “Alfredo started working for me when he was young,” Rivera recalled. “I think he’s in his thirties now, but he was 16 when he started at our Dixie location. I had not seen him for eight years and in December 2019 he came to see me out of the blue and said he was interested in starting a restaurant.” Rivera responded, “Well, as a matter of fact, I’ve got a spot in Jeffersontown.” They started working on the vision for what would become I Love Tacos. They made a deal for the property. They started the remodeling. Then the calendar turned to March 2020. “We were really excited,” recalled Rivera. “At the begin⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞

(center, left) I Love Tacos offers a generous list of creative cocktails. (center, right from top) A view of the side dining room; the ample bar at I Love Tacos. (left) The main dining room.

16


I Love Tacos_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 2:54 AM Page 17

ning of 2020 I was spending a lot of time there working on the renovations. We were planning to open in March. The week that we were going to open… that was the week that the Governor announced that restaurants had to shut down.” March 19, 2020. Rivera recalled, “My partner and I were sitting and looking at each other, wondering ‘what are we gonna do now?’ We felt like we’d put our marbles in that place. And we knew we couldn’t get jobs because everything was shut down. We were thinking that we’d just have to let it go. But then the Governor announced that we could open up just for to-gos or pick-up or drive-through.” So they opened the first week of April. That day, Rivera recalls, they did about $300 in business. The next day a bit more, and the next day a bit more. Rivera was in the kitchen cooking alongside a tiny crew — Jose Oliva, formerly Chef at the Dixie Highway Ernesto’s and Rivera’s nephew Oscar Cifuentes. Rivera was worried about whether he’d be able to keep anyone on the payroll. But then, on the fourth day the business exploded with a surge of curbside and to-go orders — and suddenly he needed all the help he could get. At a time when well-established restaurants were facing enormous challenges, I Love Tacos suddenly flourished. “I won’t say we were in the right place at the right time,” says Rivera. “Because the timing was Covid. But we were in the right place. And we were set up differently than other restaurants. We had put in a point-of-sale (POS) system from Heartland that let us use iPads to run credit cards and do everything online with portable devices. We had a good website where people could order online. We did a lot of things without knowing what was going to happen and how important those things would be.” They had everything in place, says Rivera. “And with all the orders coming in online the place was going crazy. A lot of Mexican restaurants had websites, but probably 99% of them didn’t have online ordering. I think for a lot of the restaurants that closed it was two factors, they didn’t have online order or POS systems, and if they wanted to add those things at that time it was going to cost a lot of money that wasn’t coming in — and the people who were supplying those systems got bombarded with everyone in the industry wanting those systems tomorrow, and they got overwhelmed.” In fact, though the power of the I Love Tacos POS sys⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞

(top) The specialty of the house — a Birria taco filled with brisket, onion, cilantro and melted cheese served with a brisket broth. (center) Chipotle chicken flautas with avocado, crema and queso fresco. (right) Birria quesadilla. (far right) Cubana torta with roasted pork, ham, swiss cheese, pickles and mustard on hot pressed Cuban bread.

17


I Love Tacos_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 11:04 AM Page 18

profile | i love tacos

tem was dramatically demonstrated by the pandemic. If you walk into one of the three I Love Tacos locations now, you may be struck by the grace and ease that their system brings to the fastcasual dining experience. You grab a menu — or log on — and take a seat. You can order online or from a server. The food comes quickly from the kitchen — and it looks and tastes great. At the end of your meal, you pay from your seat, and you’re away. Everything about the experience seems carefully designed to free the diner to make choices. And though the Jeffersontown location is slated for remodeling, the other two locations (in the Highlands and at Springhurst) are as bright, fresh, and energizing as the cuisine. Just as — or more — importantly, from a diner’s standpoint, the kitchen system is designed to emphasize quality and freshness. A few years back it seemed like the cafeteriastyle, point-and-choose lines at Chipotle and Qdoba were modernizing the way we’d eat Mexican cuisine. But of course, a steam table is a steam table is a steam table. Rivera is a kitchen guy, and a hands-on cook. And the plates at I Love Tacos are prepared fresh and by hand. If you were to walk into the kitchen you would see meats and seafood moving directly from the cooler to the grill. When an order is placed, fresh shrimp, fresh fish, fresh meats, fresh vegetables are moved from the cooler to the grill and cooked to order. Says Ramirez, “The only thing we keep in a steam table is rice, and we cook it throughout the day in small batches because if you hold it very long it gets hard.” (And beans, of course, are all about long, slow cooking). That freshness plus boundary-crossing flavors that draw from a cross-section of Latin American cuisines creates a vibrant dining experience that’s distinct from, say, a menu where menu variety is to some extent defined not by flavor but by whether ingredients are served in a burrito, a flour taco, or a corn taco. “I tell my chefs every single day that good proteins are good proteins, that chicken is chicken, meat is meat,” says Rivera. “But what elevates the flavors is what you put on it, the marinades and garnishes. We’re not the only place that does ⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞

(top) Chips and guacamole dip. (center) The Burrito Love — filled with marinated chicken with Mexican rice, black beans, lettuce, pico de gallo, sour cream and cheese and topped with queso fresco and a chipotle red sauce. (left) The Al Pastor torta — Pastor marinated grilled pork with avocado, pineapple, refried beans, crema, chipotle sauce, queso fresco, lettuce, tomato and onion.

18


I Love Tacos_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 2:54 AM Page 19

tacos. You can find tacos even in fine dining restaurants because chefs know that it’s a unique way to mix flavors in a tortilla that makes people go, ‘Wow!’ So what sets us apart is the flavors. We mix Mexican, Cuban, and Puerto Rican flavors to make a different kind of cuisine and it works.” And it has worked — to the point that Rivera says some restaurants are dropping by and, in some cases, imitating things on his menu, like the grilled Birria taco filled with brisket and served with broth. As for staffing, where many restaurants are having trouble meeting demand, my sense — totally anecdotal, of course — is that I Love Tacos is happily clicking along and that service is happy and engaged. “I really appreciate our employees,” said Rivera. “We try to treat them well, and give them bonuses every month, and I’m getting to the age where I think back to when I was in my 20s. and I learned from my mentor, Norberto Sanchez, that if you want to grow, your people have to grow with you. We have people that are just getting started and people I’ve worked with for many years, and I think people like being part of a company that is growing.” I Love Tacos is definitely a company that’s growing — despite having opened at the worst of all possible times — and it seems to have all the parts in place to be a trend-setter in the years ahead. Whether your taste runs to tacos, tortas, burritos, quesadillas, apps, or salads — and whether you love lightly battered fish, spicy chorizo, or pretty much any of the smartly designed dishes — including the delightfully sensuous pleasures of a vegetarian tofu taco dressed up with corn, zucchini, tomatoes, and a superb ginger-inflected Asian mayo with crema — you’ll find something here. By the way, if you like beverages with your meal, those are not slighted. In addition to a generous list of beers, there are margaritas made the same way a conscientious bartender would make at home, with only fresh ingredients: fresh limes, simple syrup, and a bit of orange Curacao. “Honestly,” says Rivera. “If I’m out somewhere and I want a margarita I always have to ask them whether they use a sweet and sour mix — because that stuff kills my stomach. I only want a real margarita.” Which seems to sum up the entire I Love Tacos experience. F&D

i love tacos | profile

⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞⠞

(top left) Rosa Reyes hand-makes the day's batch tortillas. (top right) Shrimp ceviche (center) A trio of tacos, clockwise from left — the battered shrimp taco with pico de gallo, pickled cabbage and chipotle mayo aioli; the brisket taco with cilantro and onions; the tofu taco with corn, zucchini, onions, tomatoes and cilantro. (right) Steak tostones with Monterrey Jack cheese, pico de gallo, chipotle sauce, crema and avocado slices.

19


Cocktail Contessa_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 2:57 AM Page 20

liquids | cocktail contessa

and bourbon in a metal julep cup that’s been rubbed inside with a fresh mint leaf. Once the mint is muddled, cracked or crushed ice is added. It creates a rim of frost on the outside of the metal julep cup. A julep must also include a healthy garnish of fresh, spanked mint with a straw tucked right next to it to tickle your nose with every sip. ––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––—––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

STORY AND PHOTOS BY HEATHER WIBBELS

Cocktail Your Way Through Derby Day

Here I’ve created a set of julep-inspired cocktails to make at home or for a party by time of day, from a breakfast julep to a decadent, julep-inspired boozy nightcap. All of these work best with bourbon or whiskey,

L

ouisville celebrates a two-minute

most events due to the long tradition

but I’ve noted non-whiskey substitutions that

horse race with a month of par-

connecting bourbon to horse racing

will work well with flavor combinations.

ties and events from parades to

(and specifically Mint Juleps.) During

bed races to celebrity-studded soirées.

Prohibition, many fans and journalists

My favorite part of these Derby events

lamented the lack of juleps at the horse

are the Mint Juleps or bourbon cocktails

track. A few years after the repeal of

Whether you’ve spent the day at the track or just

inspired by horses or Kentucky’s her-

Prohibition, in 1939, the Mint Julep was

partied your way through local Derby parties,

itage. As locals, we divide the year into

proclaimed the official drink of the

you might need a sweet, decadent dessert cocktail

two parts: Before Derby and After

Kentucky Derby. Today over 120,000

to top off the day and celebrate your wins. This

Derby. But while our calendars may be

Mint Juleps are served at Churchill

boozy, julep-inspired milkshake will be your go-to

Downs during Derby celebrations.

after the track!

split into before and after Derby, our love of Mint Juleps con-

The Mint Julep itself is a simple, clas-

tinues as long as the

sic recipe calling for mint,

weather is warm and

sugar, bourbon, and ice.

our throats are parched.

Traditionally the mint is

Naturally,

bourbon

plays a starring role in

lightly muddled with sugar (or simple syrup)

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Mint Julep Milkshake

2 2 ¼ 2

cups mint chocolate chip ice cream oz Old Forester 100 proof bourbon teaspoon vanilla extract dashes chocolate bitters Garnish: whipped cream and mint

Add bourbon, vanilla extract, bitters and ice cream to a blender and blend until creamy. Pour into a serving glass and garnish with mint and whipped cream.

Mint Julep Milkshake

20 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

Sunrise Julep


Cocktail Contessa_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 2:57 AM Page 21

cocktail contessa | liquids –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Sunrise Julep In the 1800s, whiskey cocktails were the morn-

2 dashes orange bitters Garnish: charred candied orange wheel

ing drink of the masses (much like the bloody

Smoke an old-fashioned glass or rinse a glass

Mary and mimosa today). To honor that I cre-

with peated Scotch. Set aside. Combine bour-

ated a Sunrise Julep with the flavors of early

bon, syrup and bitters in a mixing glass. Fill

morning - coffee, orange and a bit of bacon. For

with ice and stir for 30 seconds. Strain into pre-

a zero-proof version, use non-alcoholic bourbon

pared glass over one large rock. Garnish with a

and coffee syrup to substitute for the spirits.

charred candied orange wheel.

2 ½ 2 8

oz bourbon oz coffee liqueur (non-creamy) tablespoons orange marmalade mint leaves Garnish: mint and bacon strip

Rub the inside of the julep cup with one mint leaf and set aside. Add mint, marmalade and coffee liqueur to a mixing glass and muddle lightly. Next, stir well to break up the marmalade. Add remaining ingredients, fill with ice and stir for 20 seconds, then strain into a julep cup of cracked ice. Garnish with mint and bacon.

––––––––––––––––––––—–––––––––––––––––––––

Paddock Old Fashioned

–––––––––––––––––––—–––––––––––––––––––––

Racing Nuts Julep To dress up the julep with some fun flavors,

this works equally well with vodka or gin for nonwhiskey drinkers.

1 3 ½ 1

strawberry, chopped mint leaves oz strawberry simple syrup* oz whiskey (vodka or gin if you prefer) Sparkling wine Garnish: mint and strawberry

Rub two mint leaves along the inside of the flute

as sweeteners. It evokes pecan pie topped with

and rim. Muddle one mint leaf, one chopped

bourbon-whipped cream — perfect for a mid-

strawberry and syrup in the bottom of a chilled

day julep while attending Derby festivities.

champagne flute. Add 1 oz of whiskey (or vodka

1½ oz bourbon (aged rum also works here) ¼ oz maple syrup ¾ oz Rivulet pecan liqueur (or your favorite nut liqueur) 8 mint leaves Garnish: mint, chopped pecans

I added a Kentucky twist to this drink with some

leaf. Add mint leaves, maple and pecan liqueur

sorghum syrup and a touch of smoke by smok-

to the bottom of a julep cup and muddle lightly.

ing or rinsing the glass to evoke the feel of the

Add bourbon, give it a quick stir with your

paddock at Churchill Downs with racing fans

spoon and fill with cracked ice. Garnish with

sipping bourbons and smoking cigars.

mint and chopped pecans.

Paddock Old Fashioned

track. Here, I’ve combined a muddle of mint and strawberry with whiskey and sparkling wine, but

let's add a little maple syrup and pecan liqueur

Rub the inside of the julep cup with one mint

2 oz bourbon ½ oz sorghum syrup** 1 dash Hella Bitters Smoked chili bitters or ½ bar spoon smoky Scotch

night that week) a lighter cocktail at brunch will get the palate ready for juleps a little later at the

–––––––––––––––––––—–––––––––––––––––––––

Trifecta Bubbles Not everyone makes it to the track early. For those who partied the night before (or every

or gin). Top with sparkling wine and garnish.

*Strawberry Syrup 4 oz white sugar 8 oz fresh strawberries, sliced Combine strawberries and sugar in a clean jar or plastic zippered bag and stir. Seal and put it in the fridge from 12-24 hours. Strain out the solids and store the strawberry syrup in the fridge.

** Sorghum

syrup

½ cup sorghum 1 oz hot water bined. Store in the fridge for 4-6 weeks.. F&D

Combine sorghum with very hot water. Stir until com-

Trifecta Bubbles

Racing Nuts Julep

21


Easy Entertaining_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 3/1/22 5:04 AM Page 22

food | easy entertaining

Up here, north of Bayou Country, Cajun food is party food, the mark of a celebration that includes spicy sausage and seafood, rice and okra, catfish, gumbo, maque choux… And the epitome of Cajun party food is the Louisiana-style crawfish boil. It’s not that long ago that for Louisville diners a Louisiana-style seafood boil seemed like an exotic regional specialty — the sort of thing you might hope to experience on a coastal excursion. All that started to change five years ago when the Seafood Lady (founded by Nichelle Thurston) arrived on the scene, first with a food truck, then with a cool, funky patio in Old Louisville, now with two locations, one in NULU the other on Fern Valley Road. The Seafood Lady made a big splash with her spicy, messy, colorful assortment of dishes — including magnificent boils that brought the spirit of the Gulf here in ways Louisville had never seen. More recently, Louisiana-style seafood boils have been bubbling up all over the

city. In just the past 18-months alone, nine restaurants that specialize in seafood boils have opened their doors, giving Louisville diners a myriad of options to experience a Cajun boil. But better yet, invite your friends and family over and host your own seafood boil. It’s a lot easier to prepare than you would think (this column is called Easy Entertaining after all) and a unique party

BY TIM & LORI LAIRD | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

22 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

that your guest will surely enjoy. To help you tackle a boil of your own, we have sources for crawfish (if crawfish are not your thing, you can substitute shrimp instead) and a couple of excellent master recipes to help you get your bubble on. In Louisville, 5-pound bags of cooked, frozen crawfish can be found at three locations — Lori’s Fish Market (3941 Chenoweth Sq.), Highland Fish Market (12121 Shelbyville Rd.), and St. Brendan's Seafood (inside Logan Street Market at 1001 Logan St.). Prices range from $25-$35 per 5-pound bag. Live crawfish can also be ordered online (googling will turn up plenty of sources) from a variety of companies, most of which are based out of Louisiana and require overnight delivery. Before cooking live crawfish, they should be cleaned (purged) in a solution of saltwater (see Purging Crawfish page 24). A real crawfish boil is no tea party with lifted pinkies and proper linen; it’s a working man’s celebration. Instead of using


Easy Entertaining_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 3/1/22 5:04 AM Page 23

easy entertaining | food

Crawfish Boil 23


Easy Entertaining_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 3/1/22 5:04 AM Page 24

food | easy entertaining china and crystal, pour the steaming hot shellfish right onto a paper-covered table for hands-on disassembly. Don’t know the routine? Find a hospitable and knowledgeable friend who will be happy to show you how to break open that little shell, pull out its tail meat and then suck out the sweet and fatty morsels remaining in the head. Yes, the head. Dig in, all, and pass those paper towels. After all, this is a party.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Crawfish Boil (Serves 8 - 10) Using frozen-cooked crawfish in the recipes fits our Easy Entertaining theme. But if you decide to spend the extra time and effort and use live crawfish make sure to purge them first and adjust the recipe so they are added after the pot comes to a boil — giving them 15 minutes in boiling water.

2 ½ ½ 2 1

3-ounce bags Zatarain’s crab boil cup Kosher salt cup cayenne pepper lemons, cut in half head cauliflower, cut into large florets 2 heads broccoli, cut into large florets

2 bunches asparagus 3 pounds small redskin potatoes, scrubbed 2 onions, peeled and quartered 3 garlic bulbs, cut in half 2 pounds smoked sausage, cut into large pieces 4 ears corn, cut into thirds 5-pound bag crawfish, frozen (cooked) Crusty bread, such as French baguette In a very large stockpot, add 4 gallons water, crab boil, salt, cayenne, squeeze of lemons and lemon rinds. Cover the pot, turn on high heat and bring to a boil. (*If using live crawfish, add them now) Let boil for 5 minutes to season then add the cauliflower, broccoli, asparagus, potatoes, onions, garlic, sausage and corn. Boil for another 5 minutes until just cooked then add the crawfish. Boil for yet another 5 minutes until the crawfish are hot and turn off the burner. Cover and let soak for 10 minutes. Remove everything from the pot using a slotted spoon or pour into a large strainer to remove the liquid. To serve the traditional way, cover a table with thick layers of newspaper and pour the contents of your boil onto the table and enjoy with crusty bread.

Purging Crawfish: If you decide you want to go totally authentic and order your crawfish alive and kicking, you will need to purge your crawfish before you boil them. Here’s how: Place live crawfish into a large tub or ice chest, pour a 26-ounce box of salt over top, and add enough water to just cover crawfish. With a large paddle, stir gently for 3 minutes to blend salt and water, then pour off the brine and rinse crawfish with clean water. Don’t over-purge. Doing so risks killing them before cooking. Dead crawfish will float to the top, so be sure to discard them. Also, be sure to keep your crawfish cold until it’s time to cook them.

Crawfish are freshwater crustaceans. If for some reason you are averse to eating crawfish you can do what Cajuns do when crawfish are out of season — eat saltwater crustaceans, shrimp. The same eating etiquette applies.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Shrimp Boil (Serves 6 - 8) This recipe calls for headless, peeled and deveined shrimp, which are the quickest and easiest shrimp boil for both the host and the guests. Another option is to use headless, easy-peel (shell-on and

Shrimp Boil

24


Easy Entertaining_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 3/1/22 11:05 AM Page 25

easy entertaining | food

Bourbon Whipped Cream deveined) shrimp. The shells add more flavor and peeling them prompts more guest interaction.

2 3-ounce bags Zatarain’s crab boil ½ 4-ounce Zatarain’s bottled liquid crab boil 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 1 onion, peeled, cut in half 1 garlic bulb, cut in half ¼ cup Kosher salt ⅛ cup cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon hot sauce 1 lemon, cut in half 3 pounds jumbo shrimp (21–25 count) frozen, raw and peeled Cocktail sauce (optional recipe to follow) In a large pot, add 2 gallons (32 cups) of water. Add the dry and liquid crab boil, Worcestershire sauce, onion, garlic, salt, cayenne pepper and hot sauce. Squeeze the lemon into the pot then add the rinds. Bring to boil and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the shrimp, bring back to a boil, simmer for 3 minutes until pink. Turn off the heat and allow shrimp to sit for 10 minutes to season. The shrimp should be tender, pink and not overcooked. Serve with cocktail sauce.

Making cocktail sauce at home results in

Fish House cocktail sauce (optional): (Makes about 2½ cups)

1 1 ¼ 3 3 3 1

cup ketchup cup chili sauce cup prepared horseradish tablespoons lemon juice tablespoons Worcestershire sauce tablespoons vinegar tablespoon cracked black pepper Louisiana Hot Sauce or your favorite hot sauce, to taste (optional)

Combine ketchup, chili sauce, and horseradish until smooth consistency. Add remaining ingredients and whisk together until evenly incorporated. Cover and refrigerate for approximately 2 hours and serve. Store refrigerated for 2 weeks (or until the expiration date of the prepared horseradish). There is no shame in serving a goodquality, store-bought fruit pie or cobbler for desert, especially if you top it with this slightly tipsy whipped cream.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Bourbon Whipped Cream (Serves 4 – 6)

1 pint heavy whipping cream ¼ cup powdered sugar 2 tablespoons bourbon

the most flavorful and fresh tasting sauce. And it has far fewer preservatives than store bought. The Fish House (3624 Lexington Rd.) in the Highlands has one of our favorite house-made sauces. They kindly agreed to share their recipe with us.

In a mixer with a wire whisk attachment, combine the cream, powdered sugar and bourbon. Whip on low for 30 seconds to incorporate, then on high for 3 – 4 minutes until stiff peaks form. Be careful not to over-whip. Dollop on top of your favorite pie or cobbler. F&D www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 25


Spirits_Bourbon_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 3:08 AM Page 26

liquids | bourbon

Craft Whiskey What is It and Why Should You Drink It? BY SUSAN REIGLER | PHOTO BY DAN DRY

26 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

In 2000, there were about a dozen whiskey distilleries in the United States producing all 40 or so brands of bourbon (plus Tennessee whiskey) that consumers found on store shelves. Just over two decades later, there are over 1,500 distilleries throughout the country and most of them make whiskey. The number of variety of brands is now in the thousands. What happened? The answer: Craft Distilleries.

In the past 20 years even as the major legacy distilleries in Kentucky and Tennessee expanded production and released more expressions, smaller — often regional — distillers have proliferated. Some of these were started by farmers to add value to their grain harvests. Others by entrepreneurs in urban areas. A significant number of these start-ups are overseen by women, many of whom have chemical engineering degrees. This new distilling activity has resulted in a proliferation of regional styles. But craft distilling is not completely analogous to craft brewing, which grew from demand for beers with more flavor that the watery lagers produced by the brewing behemoths. The American whiskey giants, based in Kentucky, Tennessee, and Indiana were all making excellent prod-

ucts. The point was not to copy a Kentucky bourbon, but to distill a spirit that would be a little different, with its own distinctive flavor characteristics. Some don’t even have a physical distillery. They source whiskey from other producers or have a distillery make bourbon or rye using their own specifications. Many will blend sourced whiskeys or age in secondary barrels to produce unique flavor profiles. These new distilleries are not all mom-andpop operations by any means, though many are indeed family owned. “Craft” in this context means small compared to the major distilleries. The American Craft Spirits Association defines a craft producer, whether making their own or sourcing, as one producing less than 750,000 proof gallons per year.


Spirits_Bourbon_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 3:08 AM Page 27

bourbon | liquids (A proof gallon is a gallon of 100 proof spirit. Therefore, a liquid gallon of an 80 proof bourbon would equal 0.8 proof gallons. A liquid gallon of 125 proof whiskey would equal 1.25 proof gallons.) While 750,000 proof gallons sounds like a lot, consider that Four Roses, one of the smaller of the historic Kentucky distilleries, produced about 4 million proof gallons annually for many years and recently expanded its facility to double that amount. The growth of the craft distilling scene has happened in Kentucky, as well as nationwide. The Kentucky Bourbon Trail of 18 Kentucky Distillery Association members now has a companion Kentucky Bourbon Trail Craft Tour. It consists of 19 distilleries ranging in size from tiny Pogue in Maysville to much bigger operations such as Willett in Bardstown or New Riff in Newport. Curious to sample some crafts? Here are half a dozen from Kentucky and elsewhere to get you started. Prices may vary by a few dollars depending upon the retailer. Buzzard’s Roost Barrel Strength Bourbon 114.4 proof, blend of 4- and 6 years old bourbons, $89 (Buzzard’s Roost Sipping Whiskeys, Louisville, KY)

Huber’s Starlight Carl T. Indiana Straight Bourbon Whiskey 92 proof, at least 4 years old, $43

Lots of caramel, plums, dates, and baking spices here with some sorghum, especially on the finish. The Starlight Distillery is part of the complex at Huber’s Farm and owner Ted Huber is a past president of the American Craft Spirits Association. The distillery utilizes both a pot still and a column still and experiments with finishing other bourbon expressions in ex-sherry barrels and barrels customized for the distillery. (Starlight Distillery, Borden, IN)

New Riff Bourbon Bottled-in-Bond 100 proof, 4 years old, $45

This modern, state-of-the-art distillery is located near the Ohio River with a view of Cincinnati’s skyline. All of the bourbons and ryes they release are at least four years old. This flagship expression displays a rich mouthfeel and a notably spicy profile thanks to the high rye mashbill of 65% corn, 35% rye, and 5% malted barley. Cinnamon and allspice are sprinkled throughout the core flavors of caramel corn, crème brulee, and baked apples. (New Riff Distilling, Newport, KY)

Old Bardstown, Estate Bottled

Master blender Jason Brauner selects barrels from the MGP distillery in Lawrenceburg, Indiana and then transfers the whiskey to barrels fashioned to his specifications by coopers at Independent Stave. The combination of bourbons lends flavor complexity that includes a nose of corn muffins, baking spices, and berry fruit, all notes that are joined on the palate by vanilla and suggestions of cocoa, more berries, and sweet oak. It is impressively mild-mannered for its proof.

This family-owned distillery is perched atop a hill overlooking a sea of distilling giant Heaven Hill’s warehouses. Willet is a considerably smaller operation, but nonetheless produces an impression portfolio of bourbons and ryes. Old Bardstown Estate Bottled is very smooth for the triple digit proof. Toffee is backed by orange peel, apples, and pears. The palate is balanced out with notes of old leather and sweet oak.

F.E.W. Bottled-in-Bond

108.4 proof, 4 years old, $70

100 proof, 4 years old, $45

(Kentucky Peerless Distilling Company, Louisville, KY)

Founder Paul Hletko opened the first legal distillery ever in Evanston, which had been founded as a dry city by the Methodists when they also founded Northwestern University. The initials in the name are shared by temperance leader Frances Elizabeth Willard who lived nearby. The distillery makes several spirits including gin, malt whiskey, and rye. This 100 proof bourbon expression is loaded with notes of dark fruit, cinnamon, allspice, and rich vanilla. (F.E.W. Spirits, Evanston, IL)

101 proof, no age statement, $30 (Willet Distillery, Bardstown, KY)

Peerless Small Batch Bourbon

Corky Taylor revived his grandfather’s preProhibition whiskey brand and first cemented the modern Kentucky Peerless reputation with award-wining ryes. The bourbons are just as outstanding. Complex and dry with heavy caramel, pipe tobacco, new leather, and touch of butterscotch. Add a little water to this barrel proof sip and ripe apples and dark cherries emerge. The finish gives an impression of campfire smoke without being actually smoky like a peated scotch. F&D www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 27


Cooking with Ron_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 3/1/22 3:11 AM Page 28

food | cooking with ron

Pasta with garlic scape cream sauce

BY RON MIKULAK | PHOTOS BY ANDY HYSLOP

S

pring is the most poetic and romantic of seasons — what with the rebirth of the earth, the flowering trees blooming enticingly, the birds building nests…. That sort of thing.

Just as importantly for locavore eaters, spring is also marked by the first

appearances of local farmers’ seasonal vegetable crops. If there isn't a cold snap that nips those early sprouts. And if persistent rains don't render fields too muddy to plant. And if greedy wildlife don't grab more than their fair share of new shoots. Farmers, after all, live close to — and have to get along with — nature. But when the balance levels out between farmers’ hopes, persistent work, and hard-won experiential knowledge on the one hand, and the implacable unpredictable vagaries of nature on the other, shoppers are glad to find the newest and freshest vegetables at farmers' markets. Most local farmers' markets open around the first week of May, but the Original Bardstown Road Farmers’ Market at Bardstown Road and Deerwood Avenue stays open all winter, and is the best place to find the earliest vegetables. 28 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

Garlic scapes come early to market

Among these earliest market arrivals are tender little lettuces and baby greens and radishes, followed by the always-amusing curlicues of garlic scapes, the early growth out of the garlic bulb. Scapes can be chopped and grilled, roasted or sautéed, or added to stirfries or vegetable soup. The flavor is pungently garlicky, which cooking tames into fresh piquancy. For several years I have made a batch of garlic scape pesto when it is in its brief season, and frozen it in plastic ice cube trays, ready for quick pasta dinners or flavoring in minestrone soup. Early root vegetables like carrots, beets and turnips are at their best this time of the year: relatively small, not woody, sweet and flavorful. All around the Mediterranean, carrot salad is a favorite way to enjoy early tender carrots. The liberal use of cumin in the salad I offer betrays its origins in North Africa, rather than France or Italy. Spinach is among the greens that appear in the spring and then disappear, driven to bolt


Cooking with Ron_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 3/1/22 3:11 AM Page 29

cooking with ron | food and turn bitter as the temperature rises. So enjoy the bright green goodness of spinach in salads or in dishes like spinach and feta frittata I offer here. All the foods I mention here — except for garlic scapes — are available "fresh" most of the year in supermarkets, thanks to the global supply chain, which enables supermarkets to carry, even in late January and February, “fresh" asparagus from Argentina and Chile. In farmers’ markets, those spring vegetables are picked a day or two before (or the day of) their display on farmers’ tables, not delivered a week or more after the groceries are trucked from corporate farms in this or another hemisphere. In supermarkets, asparagus of similar length and thickness come bundled by the pound. In farmers' markets, asparagus is not graded by length or thickness; buyers have to sort through and choose pencil-thin or cigarfat spears (hefty spears have more flavor and texture, although fatter stalks benefit from having the bottom 3 or 4 inches peeled). Asparagus might be the easiest vegetable to cook: place in simmering water and boil

until stalks are bright green and al dente. Top with melted butter, salt and pepper and eat with fingers if the dinner is informal. Here I offer an only slightly more troublesome technique, one that will allow for easier grilling or broiling, accented by an Asian-influenced brush-on marinade that pairs well with sesame beef. In Louisville, asparagus and — if the local vegetative gods are especially benevolent — locally grown strawberries mark the end of the spring growing season. When locally grown asparagus arrives in markets in late May, soon to come are baby summer squash, sugar snap peas, and other promising summer crops that will be around until September or October. Early spring vegetables are more ephemeral — tender baby spinach matures into tough guy adolescence in two or three weeks; garlic scapes appear and disappear suddenly, gone so the garlic bulbs can get all the nourishment. Here are some ideas for using the freshest spring vegetables, so check out our farmers’ markets as soon as they open.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Pasta with garlic scape cream sauce (Serves 1) Proportions here are for one serving of pasta. Increase quantity of ingredients proportionally to suit number of servings needed. Frozen pesto can be added to cream without thawing, though thawing first makes sauce come together more quickly.

2 1

½ ½ 1

One serving of spaghetti, linguine or other long pasta tablespoons olive oil roasted red pepper (I use jarred roasted peppers, which makes things easier) red onion, peeled and coarsely chopped cup heavy cream heaping tablespoon garlic scape pesto

Cook pasta according to package directions, and drain. In a sauce pan heat olive oil until shimmery,

Mediterranean carrot salad


Cooking with Ron_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 3/1/22 3:12 AM Page 30

food | cooking with ron

Sesame beef and asparagus

then add chopped red onion and the roasted red pepper. Cook, stirring, three or four minutes until onion is softened. Add the cream and the pesto and stir to combine. Lower heat until sauce is bubbling gently and cook, stirring, until slightly thickened. Add sauce to pasta and toss to combine well.

For the garlic scape pesto: (Serves 6) If pine nuts are hard to find or too expensive for your pocketbook, you can use other nuts, like walnuts or blanched almonds. If you find garlic scapes a bit too aggressively pungent, use half garlic scapes and half parsley or basil.

¼ cup pine nuts ¾ cup coarsely chopped garlic scapes Juice and zest of half a lemon ½ teaspoon salt Black pepper to taste ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 30 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

¼ cup grated Parmesan Reggiano cheese In a small dry skillet over very low heat lightly toast the nuts, stirring or tossing until just beginning to brown, about 2 to 3 minutes. Combine the garlic scapes, nuts, lemon juice and zest, salt and pepper in a food processor or powerful blender. Pulse until well combined. As the motor is running, add the olive oil slowly until all the oil is incorporated and the ingredients emulsified. Scrape the pesto into a bowl and stir in the grated cheese. You can use the pesto immediately, as in the recipe below, or you can fill compartments in an ice cube tray with 1 to 1-½ tablespoons of pesto and freeze for later. One cube of pesto is enough to flavor one serving of whatever you are making.

––––––––––––––––––––––––– Mediterranean carrot salad (Serves 4) If you don’t care for cilantro, use parsley. If you

like the taste of cumin, add more to the dressing, a quarter teaspoon at a time.

For the salad: 2 pounds carrots, peeled, trimmed and shredded ½ cup chopped cilantro, flat-leaf parsley, or combination of the two 1 bunch scallions, roots and limp outer leaves trimmed, sliced into ½-inch pieces

For the dressing: ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil ⅓ cup fresh lemon juice (about 1½ lemons) 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon ground cumin ⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper


Cooking with Ron_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 3/1/22 3:12 AM Page 31

cooking with ron | food Toss together grated carrots, cilantro/parsley

Remove steak, pat dry and broil or grill until rare,

and sliced scallions.

2 minutes or so per side. Slice to serve with

–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Spinach and feta frittata

asparagus and mashed potatoes or rice.

(Serves 4)

Whisk together all the dressing ingredients. Toss carrots with half the dressing, taste, and add more dressing if desired.

––––––––––––––––––––––––– Sesame beef and asparagus (Serves 4) You can use a variety of beef cuts for this: strip steak, flat iron steak, flank steak.

1 pound beef steak

For the steak marinade:

For the asparagus seasoning sauce: 1 tablespoon soy sauce 2 tablespoons dark sesame oil One clove garlic, peeled and minced 2 tablespoons sesame seeds Salt and pepper 1 pound asparagus Trim off 2 inches or so off fibrous stalk ends, Peel bottoms of spears if still too tough. Using bamboo skewers, thread asparagus stalks onto two skew-

3 2 1 1

tablespoons soy sauce tablespoons sesame oil tablespoon rice vinegar teaspoon grated ginger root Sesame seeds

ers, one near the bottom and one near the top of each stalk, making a sort of raft. In a small bowl, whisk together soy sauce, sesame oil, garlic, sesame seeds and salt and pepper. Brush lightly a stovetop grill pan or a grill with oil. Brush the asparagus “rafts” liberally with

In a small bowl combine the soy sauce, sesame

the seasoning sauce and add to the hot grill. Cook

oil, rice vinegar, grated ginger, and sesame seeds.

a minute or so on each side, brushing each time

Whisk to blend, then pour into a zippered plastic

you turn the asparagus over (using the skewers to

bag, add steak and marinate at room temperature

do so), until nicely charred and cooked through,

for 30 minutes, or up to 2 hours in the refrigerator.

five minutes or so.

2 tablespoons olive oil ½ red bell pepper, seeds removed and pepper chopped into thin half-inch pieces 1 bunch scallions, trimmed and sliced into half inch pieces 5–6 ounces fresh baby spinach, rinsed thoroughly, stems trimmed 8 large eggs ½ cup crumbled feta cheese Salt and freshly ground pepper Heat oven to 375°. Heat olive oil in an ovenproof skillet until shimmery, add the red pepper and scallions and cook, stirring. Add cleaned spinach to the skillet by handfuls, adding more as spinach wilts as it cooks. In a bowl crack the eggs, season with salt and pepper to taste and whisk together. Fold in the feta to the beaten eggs and, when the spinach is all wilted, add egg mixture to the skillet, stirring to distribute the vegetables evenly. Place skillet in oven until eggs are set and browned on top, about 15 minutes. If frittata is not browned enough on top, run it under the broiler briefly, watching carefully so top does not burn. F&D

Spinach and feta frittata

31


Dragon Kings Daughter_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 5:01 AM Page 32

profile | dragon king’s daughter

BY ROGER BAYLOR PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

Dragon King’s Daughter owner Toki Masubuchi’s career epitomizes the art of the possible, borne of an unwillingness to take “no” for an answer, much like Masabuchi’s inspiration, the original Dragon King’s Daughter, who is the subject of a parable in the Buddhist Lotus Sutra. In that ancient text, a character known as the daughter of the Dragon King exemplifies the ability of women to attain enlightenment without changing their female form. “That is something people thought was impossible,” says Masubuchi. “It’s an example to lead all the other beings to believe in the possibilities.”

Toki Masubuchi came to Kentucky from her native Osaka in the early 1990s, ostensibly to learn English, attend college and study communications. But much like young people anywhere, what Masubuchi really wanted was to find out who she was and to make her own place in the world. That she did. And that she has. Masubuchi started her culinary career in 2001, preparing take-out sushi on a back counter at the old Bardstown Road Seafood Connection. Not long after that, in 2004, she opened the storied Maido Essential Japanese on Frankfort Avenue where she introduced Louisville to her adaptive interpretation of traditional Osakan izakaya-style eateries, and

won acclaim for her superb sushi, sashimi, small plates and outstanding beverage offerings. In 2009, she opened the first iteration of Dragon King’s Daughter in the Highlands. There she displayed a newly discovered flair for cuisine that featured adventurous fusion elements while remaining rooted in tradition. In 2010 she sold Maido Essential Japanese (which closed in late 2012) to focus her attention on DKD. By 2013, Masubuchi had added a second Dragon King’s Daughter location on the edge of New Albany’s flourishing New Albany dining district — and had become the owner of the cool quasi-dive bar Kaiju in Louisville’s Germantown. In 2018, when Masabuchi relocated the New Albany Dragon King’s Daughter to its current location in the heart of the city, it was immediately obvious that her vision had taken another quantum leap: when I saw it for the first time, I was utterly and magnificently gobsmacked. Customers sat at the counter watching meats, fish and vegetables being grilled over a kind of charcoal grill I’d never seen before: a traditional Japanese robatayaki (or robata). The room’s décor was eclectic, with upholstered furnishings on one side, intimate booths on the other, and details like live-edge tables, with spaces delineated by Japanese noren curtains. Liquor bottles shelved behind the bar rose to meet the ceiling, but yet otherwise the room seemed under-decorated, defined by shades of black and gray: lacking ornamentation apart from strategically placed house plants. Normally darkness restricts. But here it felt spacious, perhaps owing to the absence of wall hangings. It gradually dawned on me that Dragon King’s Daughter’s customers were intended as the décor: all the better to encourage a communal vibe.

Chef Bryce Montesa mains the robata grill.

32 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com


Dragon Kings Daughter_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 3:56 AM Page 33

dragon king’s daughter | profile

1126 Bardstown Rd. LOUISVILLE, KY 502.632.2444

129 W. Market St. NEW ALBANY, IN 812.725.8600 dragonkingsdaughter.com 33


Dragon Kings Daughter_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 3:56 AM Page 34

When planning began for the original Dragon King’s Daughter, Masubuchi foresaw the possibility of a menu expanded beyond Maido’s thematic limitations, although one aspect of the program wouldn’t change. “Maido was more straight Japanese,” she explains, “and we already had all the special (sushi) rolls. They became the main menu for DKD.” However, there would still be diners who believed that sushi and raw fish are synonyms, and to accommodate them, crosscultural ideas began gestating among the employees in Maido’s kitchen. “I wasn't very familiar with Mexican food then,” remembers Masubuchi. “The first time I had Mexican food was when staff in the kitchen cooked their own food and shared it with me. Sometimes they would buy tacos (and) bring them back for me to eat, and it was not something I was used to tasting.” For Masubuchi, something was missing. “I wish I had soy sauce inside this,” she recalls thinking, and “what if I mixed it with teriyaki sauce and put it on the tacos? We played with the food with the kitchen staff. It tasted great to me, and they liked it.” She listened, and this is how Japanese izakaya met Mexican taqueria, a fusion that proved quite popular in the Highlands. The menus at the two Dragon King’s Daughter locations differ. While most of the small plates and sushi rolls coincide, the Louisville kitchen makes tacos, quesadillas and Korean bibimbap, which are omitted from New Albany’s menu in favor of ramen, fried rice and robata. Fusion is a relative term, and for Masubuchi, it basically just comes down to what tastes good. For instance, drunken chicken generally calls for a can of beer, but Dragon King’s Daughter steams the fowl in sake, the Japanese fermented rice beverage. She offers a miso with Mexican shiitake broth, and uses wasabi sour cream to top nachos laden with jalapenos, corn and black beans. Flavor combinations don’t stop with Japanese and Mexican; the Italian Picnic sushi roll features asparagus tempura, prosciutto and basil, albeit with Japanese mayo. In Japan the non-native avocado is known as “the butter of the forest,” and at Dragon

How Izakaya met taqueria

GM Ryan Westphal (left) and Chef/Owner Toki Masubuchi.

(center grouping) The New Albany location offers various styles of seating options throughout. (left) a trio of sushi rolls including the Italian Picnic (front). 34


Dragon Kings Daughter_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 3:57 AM Page 35

King’s Daughter it is used in several examples of both cooked and uncooked makizushi (sushi rolls). It shines at the robata, too, and would likely rate as the most elegant charcoal-grilled vegetable you’ve ever tasted if not for avocado technically being a fruit.

dragon king’s daughter | profile

The Robata — Gathering around the grill

Another distinguishing aspect of Dragon King’s Daughter is the robata grill — a centuries-old country style of Japanese cooking around a communal hearth — that is rarely seen in American restaurants. The lexicon of Japanese grilling is extensive, and as a basic primer, know that robata, hibachi and teppan aren’t the same. Originally a hibachi was a small porcelain room heater, and only later came to be regarded as a tabletop barbecue grill. Teppan is a larger, open-iron griddle; it’s what your granddad saw at Benihana back in the day. A robata grill is wide, flat and open. Grilling takes place over binchotan charcoal produced from the ubame tree, a Japanese oak. Binchotan is a premium grade of white charcoal, clean and odorless, enabling the use of a lower temperature for crisp outside texture and succulence beneath. Ever since Maido, Masubuchi had wanted to develop robata as an option. “It’s one of my favorite restaurants in Japan,” she says, “but I never saw it here. We didn't have the people (or) the money to do it then, but (robata) was always what I wanted to do.” Masabuchi’s vision — including the introduction of a robata grill — finally became possible with the advent of the new, remodeled building in New Albany. But during the run up to opening the new location in 2018, Masabuchi knew that curating the kind of experience she wanted to offer meant immersing key employees in the authentic experience. Hence the most logical course of action: fly a group of her DKD colleagues to Japan, straight to the source. This Japanese fact-finding mission began in Tokyo and included Osaka, Kyoto, Arima Onsen (a historic hot springs resort), temples and castles, with the group focusing on food, drink and ideas for the forthcoming New Albany location. For DKD New Albany manager Ryan Westphal the trip to Japan was “cosmic,” connecting five years’ worth of dots. “We packed so much in a short amount of time; it was incredible,” he remembers. “Toki was our guide and we had the opportunity to eat and drink with some of her family too.”

Building a team and a community

(top) The New Albany location’s spacious bar. (center, from left) A trio of sushi rolls including the Citrus Heat roll (front); the Shrimp Tempura roll. (right) Kimchi barbecue beef tacos. 35


Dragon Kings Daughter_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 11:07 AM Page 36

profile | dragon king’s daughter

“We went to izakayas (it’s what we call our barroom), robatas, ramen shops, gyoza (dumpling) spots and fish markets, and ate sushi, street food and home cooked meals at Toki’s family home, even formal room service at the hot springs. Many things we experienced in Japan show up throughout the New Albany location.” The robata visits made the deepest impression. Westphal, who started out imagining robata as ordinary (“it sounded like a grill which can be found at many restaurants, and even homes”) soon learned otherwise. “Simple ingredients prepared and cooked over charcoal in front of you sounds easy enough. When I finally got to experience robata in Japan I was blown away. It was unforgettable. The robata grill is helmed by Bryce Montesa, who grills avocados, Romaine lettuce, scallops, and beef tenderloin, and a generous array of other items Thursdays through Sundays from 5:00 pm on. “I’m honored to be bringing a different outlook on Japanese cuisine,” Montesa says. “The robata grill brings a different atmosphere and a certain style that can’t be found anywhere else.”

A spark for growth — and regeneration — in New Albany

In 2018, the Indiana Dragon’s King Daughter had outgrown its original Indiana footprint, leading Masabuchi to consider expanding. She discovered a new home in an historic spot: the 92-year old building that was once home to Wolf ’s Supermarket, at the corner of W. First and Market Streets. In its heyday, Wolf ’s Supermarket was renowned for Wolf ’s Wieners (legendary culinary classic that can still be found at some area markets). In the 80s, when New Albany’s historic business district slipped into a doleful slumber, the supermarket closed. But in 2006, the opening of Bistro New Albany, a short-lived but trailblazing eatery, heralded the rapid regeneration of New Albany’s independent food and beverage scene. Numerous restaurant and bar startups followed, and in 2022 — notwithstanding the pandemic’s myriad challenges — at least 20 restaurants, bars, coffee shops and bakeries operate in downtown New Albany. Most of them are situated within a ten-minute walk of Dragon King’s Daughter. Nearly everthing in the building that once housed Wolf ’s Supermarket has changed. Where shoppers once filled carts with breakfast cereal, mayonnaise and toilet paper, today’s globally-savvy consumers enjoy hamachi sashimi, yamaimo (mountain yam), kimchi beef, craft beers (top) At lunch, you can order a Bento Box at the Louisville location. (center) A pair of sushi rolls include the Dragon King’s Daughter roll (bottom) and the Summer Salad roll. (far left) Stuffed wontons with sweet chili dipping sauce. (left) Nachos with queso blanco over freshly fried corn tortilla chips and topped with tomato, red onion, jalapeño and cilantro. 36


Dragon Kings Daughter_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/22 3:57 AM Page 37

and contemporary cocktails. But there is one important physical link between Wolf ’s and Dragon King’s Daughter that is emblematic of New Albany regenerative renaissance: “We kept the walk-in coolers,” Masubuchi notes. “They’re the same.” Also, another link the past is the role DKD plays – notwithstanding its international and cosmopolitan roots – in helping rebuild the sense of community in New Albany’s downtown core. Ryan Westphal answered the call for applicants when Dragon King’s Daughter came to New Albany. He was interested, but wary. “I was a little worried to come into a small southern Indiana town at a start-up sushi restaurant,” Westphal says. “That's a little scary for your income, you know.” But once he got the job he found himself creatively intrigued by that very lack of familiarity – and the resulting opportunities for creating converts. Eventually, says Westphal, that unfamiliarity “was one of the coolest things that attracted me to DKD. Many people came in from the community and said they had never tried sushi, but we got to turn them on to it. We saw them go from the safer fried rolls all the way up to the most adventurous, uncooked rolls. We still have relationships with many, and see them regularly.” And customers have responded in kind – many reveling in the restaurant’s juxtaposition of sophistication and family-friendly features. Taking advantage of the generous footprint of 6,500 square feet she inherited from the old market, Masabuchi was able to turn the New Albany Dragon King’s Daughter into a restaurant for everyone. It includes an expansive all-ages dining area, a private event room, and outdoor seating in season. The barroom and robata counter are restricted to guests 21-and-over. And there is complete physical separation between the family-friendly seating and the bar. They are, in effect, complementary worlds. A friend with three children told me she loves the concept behind the physical separation, because “I can take the kids on one side, and then next time completely ignore everyone else’s kids on the other side.” The family-friendly atmosphere at Dragon King’s Daughter topped the list of replies when I polled neighbors, who also applauded the restaurant’s commitment to COVID-era safety protocols and its reputation for treating employees fairly. F&D (top) Spicy Shiitake miso ramen. (center, from left) Shrimp tempura tacos with avocado, tomato and a jalapeño jam; the Dragon sushi roll. (right) Esquites bibimbap with corn, black bean, avocado, mozzarella and topped with shichimi, fresh jalapeño, jalapeño jam, Cotija cheese and lime. 37


dining guide

Guide Index_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Layout 1 3/1/22 4:09 AM Page 38

Cuisine Style

African..............................60 Asian/Chinese..................61 Asian/Japanese. ..............62 Asian/Korean ...................64 Asian/Thai........................64 Asian/Vietnamese ............64 Bar & Grill/Taphouse........57

Barbecue .........................53 Bistro/New American .......44 Breakfast .........................49 Burgers/Chicken ..............47 Cafés ...............................48 Cafeterias/Buffet ..............57 Cajun/Creole....................64 Casual Dining ..................50 Coffee/Tea Houses ..........73 Cuban/Caribbean.............65 Deli/Sandwich ..................54

Alphabetical Index RESTAURANT

The 1894 Lodge 211 Clover Lane 502 Crab House 610 Magnolia 80/20 @ Kaelin's 888 Great Wall 8th Street Pizza 8UP Drinkery A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China Abol Café About Time Bar and Grill Abyssinia Ada's Kitchen and Catering Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café Adrienne's Italian Afrokanza Lounge Against The Grain Agave & Rye Epic Tacos Aji Sushi and Asian Cuisine Al Sultan Mediterranean Grill Aladdin's Mediterranean All Thai’d Up Alley Cat Café American Smokehouse Stadium Angie’s Cafe Angilo's Pizza Angio's Italian Restaurant Annie Café Annie May's Sweets Café Annie's Pizza Anoosh Bistro Apna Café Apocalypse Brew Works Applebee's Arata Sushi Arni's Pizza Arno's Pizza Aroma Café Asahi Japanese Asian Buffet Asian Wok Asiana Sushi Aspen Creek Restaurant ATG Sandwich Emporium Atrium Brewing Atrium Café August Moon Avenue Bar B.J.'s Restaurant & Brewhouse Babie Bac'z Good Grill Baby Mae's Back Deck BBQ Backside at Whiskey Row Baer’s City Winery Bandido Taqueria Mexicana bar Vetti Baraka Restaurant Barcelona Bistro Bar Barn8 Barrel 33 Tavern & Grill Barrelhouse on Market Barry's Cheesesteaks Baxter's 942 Bean Bearno's Beef O'Brady's Bella Roma Bento Asian Kitchen + Sushi Big Al’s Beeritaville Big Bad Breakfast Big Ben's BBQ Biscuit Belly Bistro Le Relais Blackbeard Espresso Blackstone Grille Blaze Fast Fire'd Pizza Blind Squirrel Blue Dog Bakery Blue Horse Café Bluegrass Brewing Company Board and You Bistro & Wine Bar Bob's Steak & Chop House Bocce Bowl Bombay Grill Bonefish Grill Bonnie & Clyde's Pizza Book & Bourbon Southern Kitchen Boombozz Pizza · Watch Bar Boomer's Café

RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 42 42 46 42 47 61 52 42 50 61 73 57 60 56 71 66 61 59 50 62 68 68 64 48 53 48 52 66 64 71 52 44 67 59 50 62 52 52 48 62 61 61 62 50 54 59 48 61 57 57 53 53 53 57 50 69 66 61 67 42 53 57 54 57 73 52 57 66 62 57 49 53 50 65 73 42 52 50 48 48 59 44 46 60 67 45 52 56 52 48

MAP #

Upscale Casual 16 Fine Dining 3 Seafood Boils 13 Fine Dining 13 Burgers / Chicken 2 Asian / Chinese 8 Pizza 14 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 14, 16 Asian / Chinese 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 African 1 Southern / Soul Food 1 Desserts / Bakery 16 European / Italian 16 African 2 Microbreweries 1 Casual Dining 2, 14 Asian / Japanese 11 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 11 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 14 Asian / Thai 1 Cafes 5 Barbecue 16 Cafes 16 Pizza 13 European / Italian 6 Asian / Vietnamese 13 Desserts / Bakery 3 Pizza 9,12 Bistro / New American 7 Indian 8 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 11,12,13,15 Asian / Japanese 10 Pizza 14 Pizza 4 Cafes 14 Asian / Japanese 3 Asian / Chinese 14 Asian / Chinese 2 Asian / Japanese 11 Casual Dining 3,11 Deli / Sandwich 1 Microbreweries 1 Cafes 5 Asian / Chinese 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 Barbecue 12 Barbecue 14 Barbecue 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Casual Dining 14 Mexican 1,13 European / Italian 1 African 1 European / Spanish 6 Fine Dining 10 Barbecue 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Deli / Sandwich 1,2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 13 Pizza [14] Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5,3,14 European / Italian 14 Asian / Japanese 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Breakfast 2 Barbecue 16 Breakfast 1,3,13 European / French 4 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 Upscale Casual 10 Pizza 3,5,8,15 Casual Dining 5 Cafes 2 Cafes 13 Microbreweries 1 Bistro / New American 14 Steakhouse 1 Entertainment Dining 16 Indian 5 Seafood 5 Pizza 12 Southern / Soul Food 13 Pizza 2,5, 6, 15 Cafes 1

38 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

Latin American .................68 Mediterranean/Mid East...68 Mexican ...........................69 Microbreweries ................59 Pizza ................................52 Seafood ...........................45 Seafood Boil ....................46 Southern/Soul Food.........56 Southwest/Tex Mex..........71 Steakhouse......................46 Upscale Casual................42

Desserts/Bakery ..............71 Diner/Home Style.............56 Entertainment Dining .......60 European/French .............65 European/German ...........66 European/Irish .................66 European/Italian...............66 European/Spanish ...........67 Fine Dining.......................42 Gastropub ........................47 Indian ...............................67

RESTAURANT

Boomtown Boomtown Creamery Bootleg Barbecue Co. Borromeo's Pizza & Italian Borsalino Café & Deli Boudreaux's Cajun Cooking Boudreaux's Sno-Balls Bourbon's Bistro Brasserie Provence Bravo! Brazeiros Churrascaria Breadworks Brendon's Catch 23 Brew & Sip Coffee Bar Brian's Deli Brick House Tavern + Tap Bristol Bar & Grille Brix Wine Bar Brooklyn & The Butcher Brownie's 'The Shed' Bruegger's Bagels Bubbakoo's Burritos Bubba's 33 Buca Di Beppo Buck's Bud's Tavern & Barbecue Buffalo Wild Wings Bungalow Joe's Bar & Grill Bunz Restaurant Burger Boy Burger Girl BurgerIM Butcher's Best Butchertown Grocery Bakery Cadillacs Chicken and Fish Café 360 Café Aroma Café Thuy Van Caffe Classico California Pizza kitchen Cancún Captain Crab Seafood Boil and Bar Captain's Quarters Riverside Grille Carali's Rotisserie Chicken Caribbean Café Carrabba's Italian Grill Carr's BBQ and Market CASK Southern Kitchen & Bar Caspian Grill Persian Café Cast Iron Steakhouse Catfish Haven Restaurant Cattleman's Roadhouse CC’s Low Carb Kitchen Chamling Kitchen & Bar Champions Grille Charcoal Charlestown Pizza Co. Charr'd Bourbon Kitchen Check's Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar's Scratch Kitchen Cheer King Star The Cheesecake Factory Chef's Cut Pizzeria Chicago Steak & Lemonade The Chicken House Chicken King Chicken Salad Chick Chik'n & Mi Chili's China 1 China Bistro China Buffet China Café China Castle China Chef China Coast China Dragon China Garden China King China Star China Taste Chipotle Mexican Grill Chong Garden Chopsticks House Christi's Café Christmas Morning Café Chubby Ray's Chung King Palace Chuy's Ciao

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 50 71 53 52 48 64 71 44 66 42 46 71 45 73 54 50 42 44 46 57 54 69 57 66 42 57 47 57 47 56 56 47 54 71 45 48 69 64 48 52 69 45 45 68 65 66 53 56 68 46 45 46 48 67 50 68 52 42 56 48 50 61 42 52 54 47 47 47 64 50 61 61 61 61 61 61 61 61 61 62 62 62 69 62 62 49 49 52 62 71 66

MAP #

Casual Dining 14 Desserts / Bakery 14 Barbecue 11 Pizza 13 Cafes 4 Cajun / Creole 5 Desserts / Bakery 5 Bistro / New American 2 European / French 5 Upscale Casual 3 Steakhouse 1 Desserts / Bakery 2,7 Seafood 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 4 Deli / Sandwich 1 Casual Dining 6 Upscale Casual 1,2,5 Bistro / New American 8 Steakhouse 14 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6,14 Deli / Sandwich 3 Mexican 3, 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 15 European / Italian 6 Fine Dining 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6,12 Burgers / Chicken 3,5,6,8,11,15 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 Burgers / Chicken 2 Diner / Home Style 13 Diner / Home Style 3 Burgers / Chicken 3 Deli / Sandwich 10 Desserts / Bakery 1 Seafood 11 Cafes 2 Mexican 2 Asian / Vietnamese 13 Cafes 2 Pizza 5 Mexican 5 Seafood 13 Seafood 10 Latin American 1,2,5,6, 15 Cuban / Caribbean 2 European / Italian 5 Barbecue 14 Southern / Soul Food 6 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Steakhouse 16 Seafood 12 Steakhouse 6,13, 14 Cafes 1 Indian 4 Casual Dining 16 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 8 Pizza 16 Upscale Casual 6 Diner / Home Style 13 Cafes 3 Casual Dining 8,13,15 Asian / Chinese 1 Upscale Casual 3 Pizza 5 Deli / Sandwich 6 Burgers / Chicken 14 Burgers / Chicken 1 Burgers / Chicken 5, 15 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Casual Dining 2,4,5,8,13,15 Asian / Chinese 3,5 Asian / Chinese 1 Asian / Chinese 15 Asian / Chinese 8,13 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 11 Asian / Chinese 13 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 13 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 3 Asian / Chinese 16 Mexican 1,2,5,8 Asian / Chinese 11, 12 Asian / Chinese 9,13 Cafes 12 Cafes 2 Pizza 6 Asian / Chinese 1 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,15 European / Italian 2

RESTAURANT City Barbecue Classico Takeout and Empanadas Clay Oven Clever Moose Café Clifton Donuts Close Enough Café Clucker's Wings Coals Artisan Pizza Coffee Crossing Cold Smoke Bagels Cold Stone Creamery Come Back Inn The Comfy Cow Common Haus Con Huevos Copper & Kings Rooftop Restaurant CoreLife Eatery Corner Corner Café Cottage Café Cottage Inn Crave Café & Catering Cravings Ala Carte Crumbl Cookies Cuban Restaurant and Bakery Cultivator Coffee Cultured Cheese and Charcuterie Culver's Cunningham's Creekside Cup of Joy Currito Cuvée Wine Table D. Nalley's Daddy Rich's Daddy Vic's Soul Food Dairy Kastle Daisuki Sushi Dakshin Indian Restaurant DaLat's Gateaux & Bakery Danny Mac's Pasta & Pizza Dasha Barbours Bistro Dave & Buster's Dave & Peg's Copper Kettle Day's Espresso Decca Deeno's Pizza & Wings Del Frisco's Denny's Derby Café Express Derby City Pizza Derby Dinner Playhouse Difabio's Casapela Dino's Bakery DiOrio's Pizza & Pub District 6 Ditto's Grill Dixie Chicken Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Doc Crow's Doc's Bourbon Room Donum Dei Brewery Double Dogs Double Dragon Double Dragon 9 Double Dragon II Double Flame Burger Down One Bourbon Bar Dragon Café Dragon City Dragon King's Daughter Drake's Duck Donuts Dundee Tavern East Star Buffet Eat A Pita Eat Your Bourbon Marketplace Eatz Vietnamese Restaurant Eden & Kissi Eggholic Eggs Over Frankfort Ehrler's Ice Cream El Caporal El Comal Taqueria El Mariachi El Molcajete El Mundo El Nopal El Pastorcito El Rinconcito El Rio Grande El Sazon de Abuela El Sombrero El Taco Loco El Taco Luchador El Tarasco El Torazo El Toro Cantina & Grill Emmy Squared Pizza Endless Summer Coffee Company English Grill Equus & Jack's Restaurant Everyday Kitchen Ev's Deli Exchange Pub + Kitchen Executive Bistro Falafel Oasis Falls City Taproom Family Ties Famous Dave's BBQ Fante's Coffee Farm to Fork Café Fat Jimmy's FDKY BBQ Feast BBQ Felipe’s Mexican Restaurant Fiesta Mexicana Fiesta Time Amigos Fiesta Time Mexican Grill Firehouse Subs First String Bar & Grill First Watch First Wok The Fish House Fistful of Ale Fistful of Tacos Five Guys Burgers FIX Coffeehouse and Bakery Flamingo Lounge Flanagan's Ale House Fleur de Tea Flo’s House of Soul

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 53 68 67 73 71 54 47 52 73 54 71 66 71 66 50 42 50 47 49 56 56 49 57 71 65 73 42 47 45 49 50 44 56 47 56 71 62 67 72 52 56 60 56 73 42 52 46 50 49 52 60 66 72 52 64 44 47 47 43 47 60 50 62 62 62 47 47 62 62 62 57 72 57 62 68 50 64 65 67 50 72 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 68 69 68 69 69 69 69 69 70 52 73 42 43 42 54 47 56 68 57 47 53 73 49 52 53 54 70 70 70 70 54 57 50 62 45 60 70 47 73 57 58 73 56

Barbecue Latin American Indian Coffee / Tea Houses Desserts / Bakery Deli / Sandwich Burgers / Chicken Pizza Coffee / Tea Houses Deli / Sandwich Desserts / Bakery European / Italian Desserts / Bakery European / German Breakfast Upscale Casual Casual Dining Gastropub Cafes Diner / Home Style Diner / Home Style Cafes Cafeterias / Buffet Desserts / Bakery Cuban / Caribbean Coffee / Tea Houses Upscale Casual Burgers / Chicken Seafood Cafes Casual Dining Bistro / New American Diner / Home Style Burgers / Chicken Southern / Soul Food Desserts / Bakery Asian / Japanese Indian Desserts / Bakery Pizza Southern / Soul Food Entertainment Dining Diner / Home Style Coffee / Tea Houses Upscale Casual Pizza Steakhouse Casual Dining Cafes Pizza Entertainment Dining European / Italian Desserts / Bakery Pizza Asian / Vietnamese Bistro / New American Burgers / Chicken Burgers / Chicken Upscale Casual Gastropub Microbreweries Casual Dining Asian / Chinese Asian / Chinese Asian / Chinese Burgers / Chicken Gastropub Asian / Chinese Asian / Chinese Asian / Japanese Bar & Grill / Taphouse Desserts / Bakery Bar & Grill / Taphouse Asian / Chinese Mediterranean/Middle Eastern Casual Dining Asian / Vietnamese Cuban / Caribbean Indian Breakfast Desserts / Bakery Mexican Mexican Mexican Mexican Mexican Mexican Mexican Latin American Mexican Latin American Mexican Mexican Mexican Mexican Mexican Mexican Pizza Coffee / Tea Houses Fine Dining Upscale Casual Fine Dining Deli / Sandwich Gastropub Diner / Home Style Mediterranean/Middle Eastern Bar & Grill / Taphouse Burgers / Chicken Barbecue Coffee / Tea Houses Cafes Pizza Barbecue Barbecue Mexican Mexican Mexican Mexican Deli / Sandwich Bar & Grill / Taphouse Casual Dining Asian / Chinese Seafood Microbreweries Mexican Burgers / Chicken Coffee / Tea Houses Bar & Grill / Taphouse Bar & Grill / Taphouse Coffee / Tea Houses Southern / Soul Food

MAP # 5 1 5 1 2 16 14,16 3,5,13 14, 15, 16 1 6,16 1 2 ,5, 8, 13 16 1,2,8 2 5, 15 1 5 5 13 2 1 5 13 14 1 6,13,15 10 9 3 8 1 1 12, 14 13 1 11 13 2 2 3 5 2 1 12 5 3,13 13 2,6,12,13 16 2 9 2,3 2 2 9,12 1 1 1 11 5 9,2 6 8,11,12,13 12 1 10 12 2,14 3, 6, 8 3 3 13 2 2 2 4 6 2 1 4,6 12 5 13 2 [22] 6, 13 11 5 13 16 13 2,3,6,13 3,5,13 6 5 1 1 1 3 1 1 14 13 1 1 9 6 2 9 5 6 1,6 3, 7 4 5,11 8 11 13 3,5,6,15 12 2,5 14 14 3,5,8,11,14 8 1 2 8 9


Guide Index_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Layout 1 3/1/22 4:10 AM Page 39

RESTAURANT Flora Kitchenette Floyd County Brewing Co. Foko Fork & Barrel Forty Acres & A Mule Restaurant Four Kings Café Four Pegs Beer Lounge Franco's Restaurant Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot Frank's Meat & Produce Fresco Tea Bar Fresh Out the Box Frontier Diner Fry Daddy's Fuji Asian Bistro Fuji Japanese Steakhouse Full Stop Filling Station Fun Food Kitchen & Deli Fun Tea Funmi's African Restaurant Galan's Meat Market & Deli Galan's Meat Market & Grille Galaxie Gallant Fox Brewing Galley at Goodwood Game Gander, An American Grill Garage Bar Gaslight Diner Gasthaus Gatsby's On Fourth Gelato Gilberto Georgia's Sweet Potato Pie Co. Geraldine's Kitchen Germantown Social Gerstle's Place Gertie's Whiskey Bar Get It On a Bun at Booty's Gigi's Cupcakes Ginza Asian Bistro Glow Worm Play Cafe Gogi 1055 Korean BBQ Gold Bar Golden Buddha Golden Corral Golden Gate Donuts Golden Star Chinese Goodfellas Pizzeria Goose Creek Diner Gordon Biersch Brewery Gralehaus Granville Inn Grape Leaf Grassa Gramma Gravely Brewing Co. Great American Grill Great Flood Brewing Co. Great Wall Great Wok Green District Salads Grind Burger Kitchen Guacamole Modern Mexican Gustavo’s Mexican Grill Gustavo's Mexican Grill Guy Fieri's Smokehouse H. M. Frank's Habana Blues Tapas Hammerheads Happy China Happy Dragon Harbor and Hops Harley’s Hardwoodz Bar-B-Q Harrods Creek Tavern Harry's Taphouse & Kitchen Harvey’s Cheese Havana Bakery Café Havana Rumba Havana Rumba & Tapas Heart & Soy Heine Brothers' Coffee Heirloom Chef’s Table Heitzman Traditional Bakery & Deli Hell or High Water Hibachi Buffet Hibachi Sushi Buffet Hideout Pizzaria Hi-Five Doughnuts Highland Morning Highlands Taproom Grill Highview Ice Cream & Coffee Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar Hill Street Fish Fry Hillcrest Tavern Hilltop Tavern Hitching Post Inn Hi-Wire Brewing Holy Grale Holy Smokes Bar-B-Que Home Run Burgers Homemade Pie Kitchen Hometown Brewing Co. Hometown Pizza Honest Indian Honey Crème Donut Shop Honeybaked Café Hong Kong Fast Food Hooked on Frankfort Hoops Grill and Sports Bar Hooters Hot Box Eatery Howl at the Moon Huge Impact Restaurant Hungry Pelican Hyderabad House Louisville I Love Tacos IHOP Imanka Restaurant In Season Indi's Restaurant Insomnia Cookies International Tap House Irish Rover Iroquois Pizza Israel’s Delicias de Mexico Gourmet J. Alexander's Redlands Grill J. Graham's Café J. Gumbo's J. Harrod's Jack Binion's Steakhouse Jack Fry's Jade Palace

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 49 60 70 43 57 56 47 57 54 54 73 64 56 57 63 63 49 57 73 61 54 65 47 60 54 50 50 44 56 66 50 72 72 56 50 58 58 47 72 63 72 64 58 62 57 72 62 52 56 60 47 58 68 66 60 58 60 62 62 50 47 70 70 70 54 47 65 44 62 62 58 54 50 58 54 65 65 65 63 73 42 72 58 62 62 52 72 50 58 73 63 45 58 58 58 60 44 54 47 72 60 52 67 72 54 62 45 58 47 49 60 44 45 67 68 51 61 50 48 72 58 66 52 70 43 49 64 43 46 42 62

MAP #

Cafes 2 Microbreweries 14 Mexican 1 Upscale Casual 2 Southern / Soul Food 13 Diner / Home Style 4 Gastropub 13 Southern / Soul Food 12 Barbecue 3 Deli / Sandwich 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 14, 16 Asian / Korean 1 Diner / Home Style 12 Southern / Soul Food 2, 15 Asian / Japanese 12 Asian / Japanese 8 Cafes 1 Southern / Soul Food 8 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 African 4 Deli / Sandwich 9 Cuban / Caribbean 9 Gastropub 1 Microbreweries 2 Barbecue 1 Casual Dining 2 Casual Dining 5 Bistro / New American 1 Diner / Home Style 6 European / German 7 Casual Dining 1 Desserts / Bakery 2, 8 Desserts / Bakery 2 Diner / Home Style 16 Casual Dining 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Burgers / Chicken 14 Desserts / Bakery 6 Asian / Japanese 5 Desserts / Bakery 2 Asian / Korean 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Asian / Chinese 13 Cafeterias / Buffet 15 Desserts / Bakery 13 Asian / Chinese 13 Pizza 2 Diner / Home Style 8 Microbreweries 1 Gastropub 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 European / Italian 7 Microbreweries 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Microbreweries 2,5 Asian / Chinese 2 Asian / Chinese 13 Casual Dining 1, 2, 3, 5 Burgers / Chicken 1 Mexican 1 Mexican 5 Mexican 5, 8,10 Barbecue 1 Gastropub 16 Cuban / Caribbean 14 Bistro / New American 1 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 6 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Barbecue 16 Casual Dining 10 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Deli / Sandwich 1 Cuban / Caribbean 11 Cuban / Caribbean 5 Cuban / Caribbean 2 Asian / Japanese 2 Coffee / Tea Houses [17] Fine Dinning 8 Desserts / Bakery 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 13 Pizza 12 Desserts / Bakery 1 Breakfast 2,3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 11 Asian / Japanese 5 Seafood 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 Microbreweries 2 Bistro / New American 2 Barbecue 13 Burgers / Chicken 5,6,13 Desserts / Bakery [6] Microbreweries 13 Pizza 6,7,11,13 Indian 6 Desserts / Bakery 14 Deli / Sandwich 3,11,14 Asian / Chinese 13 Seafood 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Burgers / Chicken 3,13,12,15,16 Cafes 1 Entertainment Dining 1 Bistro / New American 1 Seafood 11 Indian 5 Latin American 2, 6, 8 Casual Dining 6,15 African 1 Casual Dining 1 Burgers / Chicken [8] Desserts / Bakery 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 European / Irish 2 Pizza 13 Mexican 14 Upscale Casual 3 Cafes 1 Cajun / Creole 2,6 Upscale Casual 10 Steakhouse 14 Fine Dining 2 Asian / Chinese 5

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 39


Guide Index_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Layout 1 3/1/22 4:10 AM Page 40

RESTAURANT

Jaggers Restaurant Jake & Elwood's Jasmin Bakery Jasmine Jasmine Asian Bistro Jason's Deli Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse Jeff's Donuts Jersey Mike's Subs Jerusalem Kitchen Jets Pizza Jimmy John's JJ Bakes & Co. Joe Huber Restaurant Joella's Hot Chicken Joely's Bar & Grill Joe's Crab Shack Joe's Older than Dirt John O'Bryan's Tavern Joy Luck Jucy's Smokehouse JujuBe at La Que Jumbo Buffet Juno Japanese JW Café & Bakery Kabuki Kansai Japanese Steakhouse Karem's Kashmir Indian Kathmandu Kitchen and Bar Kayrouz Café Kern's Korner Khalil's Kim & Bab King Donut King Donuts KingFish King's Fried Chicken Kolkin Coffee Koreana II L & J Asian Cuisine La Bamba La Bodeguita de Mima La Bodeguita Del Medio La Catrina Mexican Kitchen La Chapinlandia La Chasse La Guanaquita La Lupita La Maison Aux Crepes La Pana Bakery La Popular La Riviera Maya La Rosita Taqueria La Sierra La Suerte La Torta Loca La Tropicana Lady Tron's Las Cazuelas Las Gorditas Las Margaritas Mexican Restaurant Le Moo LeAnn's Home Made Cheesecakes Leaven Bakery Lee's Korean Legacy Pizza & Bakery Legend Crab Seafood House Legends Café Lemongrass Restaurant Lenny's Sub Shop Levee Bourbon Lounge Liège & Dairy Ice Cream + Waffles Lil' Wagners Limòn y Sal Lindsay's Kitchen Ling Ling Little Caesar's Pizza Little Greek Fresh Grill Liu's Garden Logan's Roadhouse Longhorn Steakhouse Lonnie's Best Taste Of Chicago Los Aztecas Lotsa Pasta Lou Lou Food + Drink Louie's Hot Chicken & Barbecue Louisville Cream Louisville International Pub Louisville Tea Co. Louvino Lucky Burrito Lucky Leopard Pizza Lucretia's Kitchen Lueberry Acai & Superfoods Luigi's Luna's Rotisserie M&M BBQ Ma Zerella's Mack Bros BBQ Mac's @ Mile Wide Main Eatery Main Event Bar & Grill Maira Mediterranean Grill Mai's Thai Restaurant Malone's Mango's Bar & Grill Manhattan Grill Maple Street Biscuit Company Marco's Pizza Mark T's Slabhouse Marketplace Restaurant Mark's Feed Store Martini Itialian Bistro Martin's Bar-B-Que Joint Masa Japanese Masala Grill Matt Winn Steakhouse Mattie's Kitchen Mayan Café McAlister's Deli Melba's Culinary Canvas Melt 502 Melting Pot Mercato Merle's Whiskey Kitchen Mesa Mesh Metro Diner Mexa Tacos

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 48 52 72 62 62 55 46 72 55 68 52 55 72 60 48 70 45 51 58 62 54 62 62 63 49 63 63 51 67 67 49 58 58 64 72 72 45 48 73 64 63 70 65 68 70 70 42 68 70 72 72 70 70 70 70 68 70 70 55 70 70 70 46 72 72 64 52 46 58 64 55 43 72 56 70 56 62 52 68 62 46 46 55 70 55 44 54 72 58 73 44 70 52 57 72 52 70 54 52 54 52 55 60 68 64 46 70 55 51 52 54 43 54 66 54 63 68 46 57 70 55 43 55 43 66 44 60 43 56 70

MAP #

Burgers / Chicken 3 Pizza 2 Desserts / Bakery 4 Asian / Chinese 5 Asian / Chinese 7 Deli / Sandwich 3,5 Steakhouse 1 Desserts / Bakery 3, 14 Deli / Sandwich 2, 5,6,8 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Pizza 2,3,5,8,11 Deli / Sandwich [11] Desserts / Bakery 1 Entertainment Dining 14 Burgers / Chicken 3,5, 15 Mexican 2 Seafood 1 Casual Dining 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Asian / Chinese 2,8 Barbecue 5 Asian / Chinese 2 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Japanese 8, 13 Cafes 5 Asian / Japanese 16 Asian / Japanese 6,15 Casual Dining 8 Indian 2 Indian 4 Cafes 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Asian / Korean 14 Desserts / Bakery 13 Desserts / Bakery 5 Seafood 7,16 Burgers / Chicken 9 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Asian / Korean 13 Asian / Japanese 10 Mexican 2 Cuban / Caribbean 1 Latin American 11 Mexican 14 Mexican 13 Fine Dining 2 Latin American 13 Mexican 15 Desserts / Bakery 1 Desserts / Bakery 1 Mexican 13 Mexican 13 Mexican 5,13 Mexican 11 Latin American 2 Mexican 13 Mexican 13 Deli / Sandwich 14 Mexican 13 Mexican 11 Mexican 5, 13 Steakhouse 2 Desserts / Bakery 1 Desserts / Bakery 14 Asian / Korean 13 Pizza 14 Seafood Boils 4 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Asian / Vietnamese 4,5 Deli / Sandwich 4 Upscale Casual 7 Desserts / Bakery 7 Diner / Home Style 13 Mexican 8 Diner / Home Style 12 Asian / Chinese 5 Pizza [10] Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3 Asian / Chinese 5 Steakhouse 6,12 Steakhouse 6,8,13,15 Deli / Sandwich 2 Mexican 5,10 Deli / Sandwich 3 Bistro / New American 3 Barbecue 1,13 Desserts / Bakery 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 5 Bistro / New American 2,5 Mexican 2 Pizza 2 Southern / Soul Food 9 Desserts / Bakery 1 Pizza 1 Mexican 13 Barbecue 13 Pizza 15 Barbecue 9 Pizza 1 Deli / Sandwich 1 Entertainment Dining 6 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3 Asian / Thai 16 Steakhouse 8 Mexican 11 Deli / Sandwich 1 Casual Dining 2 Pizza 14 Barbecue 13 Upscale Casual 1 Barbecue 2,5,11,12,14 European / Italian 8 Barbecue 8 Asian / Japanese 5 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Steakhouse 13 Southern / Soul Food 9 Mexican 1 Deli / Sandwich [11] Upscale Casual 1 Deli / Sandwich 11 Upscale Casual 6 European / Italian 8 Bistro / New American 1 Entertainment Dining 14 Upscale Casual 3 Diner / Home Style 11 Mexican 3

40 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Mexico City Tacqueria and Restaurant 70 MG's Prime Time Café 58 Mi Bonito Pinotepa 70 Mi Casita Parrilla Mexicana 70 Mi Sueño 65 Mi Tierra Mexican Restaurant 70 Mickey's 73 Mike Linnig's 45 Milano Italian Restaurant 66 Milantoni Italian Restaurant 66 Mimo's Pizzeria 52 Mirage Mediterranean Restaurant 68 Misawa Hibachi & Sushi 63 Mission BBQ 54 Mitchell's Fish Market 45 Moe's Southwest Grill 71 Mojito in Havana 65 Mojito Tapas Restaurant 67 Molly Malone's 66 Momma's Mustard Pickles & BBQ 54 Monnik Beer Co. 60 More Shenanigan's 66 Morning Fork 50 Morris Deli & Catering 55 Morton's Of Chicago 46 Moya's American Kitchen 51 Mozza Pi 53 Mr. Gatti's 53 Mt. Fuji 63 Mussel & Burger Bar 48 My Favorite Muffin 72 My Old KY Dinner Train 60 Naïve 51 NamNam Café 64 Napa River Grill 43 Neat Bourbon Bar + Bottle Shop 58 Neighborhood Services 44 Neil & Patty's Fireside Grill 58 Neon Pizza 53 New Albanian Brewing Co. 53 New Direction Bar & Grill 58 New Wave Burritos 70 Noble Funk Brewery 60 Noche Mexican BBQ 70 Noodles & Company 51 Noosh Nosh 44 Nord's Bakery 72 North Lime Donuts 72 North of Bourbon 64 Nouvelle Bar & Bottle 44 Ntaba Coffee Haus 73 O'Charley's 51 O'Connell's Irish Pub 66 O'Dolly's 56 44 Off the Rails Tasting Room Oishii Sushi 63 Old Hickory Inn 58 Old Louisville Tavern 58 Old School NY Pizza 53 Old Spaghetti Factory 66 Olé Frijole 71 O-Line Sports Grill 58 Olive Garden 66 Ollie's Trolley 48 Onion Restaurant & Tea House 62 Open Caribbean Kitchen 65 Orange Clover Kitchen 49 Oriental Café 62 Oriental House 62 Oriental Star 62 Original Impellizzeri's 53 Osaka Sushi Bar 63 O'Shea's Irish Pub 66 Oskar's Slider Bar 48 Our Lady of Perpetual Hops 60 Outback Steakhouse 46 OvrDrive Games 60 P.F. Chang's China Bistro 44 Panchitos Ice Cream 72 Panda Express 62 Panera Bread Co. 55 Papa Murphy's Pizza 53 Paris Banh Mi & Bakery 72 Parlour Pizza 53 Parnelli's Chicago Eatery 55 Pasha's Mediterranean 68 Passtime Fish House 45 Patrick O'Shea's 66 Pat's Steak House 46 Paul's Fruit Market 55 Payne Street Bakehouse 55 Pearl Street Game & Coffee House 73 Pearl Street Taphouse 58 Pearl Street Treats 72 Peking City Express 62 Penn Station 55 Penny and Pearl's Bakeshop 72 Phantom Cafe Modern Eatery 44 Philly's Best Frozen Desserts 72 Pho Ba Luu 64 Pho Café 64 Pho Phi 64 Pier 17 Cajun Seafood 46 Pin + Proof 60 Piña Fiesta Mexican Grill 71 Pints&Union 58 Pizza Donisi 53 Pizza King 53 Pizza Lupo 53 Pizza Place 53 Pizzaville 53 Please & Thank You 73 Plehn's Bakery 72 PokeHana 63 Polly Freeze 72 Porch Kitchen & Bar 58 Porcini 66 Porkland BBQ 54 Portage House 51 Potbelly Sandwhich Shop 55 Po-Z's Kitchen 57 Pregame Coffee 73 Primo's Pizzeria 53 Proof On Main 44 Public House by Against The Grain 60 Puerto Vallarta 71 Pure Blendz 49 Purrfect Day Cat Café 49 Qdoba Mexican Grill 71 Queen of Sheba 61

MAP #

Mexican 16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Mexican 13 Mexican 1 Cuban / Caribbean 4 Mexican 5,7 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Seafood 12 European / Italian 8 European / Italian 6 Pizza 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Asian / Japanese 11 Barbecue 3,15 Seafood 8 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,6,8,11 Cuban / Caribbean 3 European / Spanish 7 European / Irish 2 Barbecue 3,5 Microbreweries 13, 14 European / Irish 4 Breakfast 2 Deli / Sandwich 2 Steakhouse 1 Casual Dining 6 Pizza 2, 5 Pizza 12,13,15 Asian / Japanese 13 Burgers / Chicken 1,6 Desserts / Bakery 5 Entertainment Dining 13 Casual Dining 2 Asian / Vietnamese 3 Upscale Casual 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Bistro / New American 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Pizza 1 Pizza 14 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 Mexican 13 Microbreweries 1 Mexican 2 Casual Dining 6,8,13 Bistro / New American 7 Desserts / Bakery 13 Desserts / Bakery 13 Cajun / Creole 13 Bistro / New American 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Casual Dining 3,6,12 European / Irish 11 Diner / Home Style 13 Bistro / New American 4 Asian / Japanese 4 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Pizza 5,8 European / Italian 1 Mexican 11 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 8 European / Italian 6,8,11,15 Burgers / Chicken 1 Asian / Chinese 14 Cuban / Caribbean 13 Cafes 16 Asian / Chinese 4 Asian / Chinese 3 Asian / Chinese 13 Pizza 2,5,10 Asian / Japanese 1,2 European / Irish 2 Burgers / Chicken 13 Microbreweries 14 Steakhouse 8,11,13,15 Entertainment Dining 1 Bistro / New American 5 Desserts / Bakery 2,13 Asian / Chinese 5,6,8,15 Deli / Sandwich [10] Pizza [8] Desserts / Bakery 2 Pizza 1, 2, 14, 16 Deli / Sandwich 16 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 4 Seafood 6 European / Irish 1 Steakhouse 2 Deli / Sandwich 3,4,5,7 Deli / Sandwich 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Desserts / Bakery 16 Asian / Chinese 3 Deli / Sandwich [17] Desserts / Bakery 3 Bistro / New American 2 Desserts / Bakery 3 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Asian / Vietnamese 3 Asian / Vietnamese 3 Seafood Boils 6, 12 Entertainment Dining 1 Mexican 12 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Pizza 13 Pizza 14,16 Pizza 2 Pizza 4 Pizza 8 Coffee / Tea Houses 1,2,10 Desserts / Bakery 3 Asian / Japanese 1 Desserts / Bakery 14 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 European / Italian 2 Barbecue 1 Casual Dining 16 Deli / Sandwich 1,6,8 Southern / Soul Food 12 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 Pizza 6 Upscale Casual 1 Microbreweries 2 Mexican 11,14,16 Cafes 1 Cafes 2 Mexican [17] African 4

RESTAURANT

Quill's Coffee Quizno's Subs Rafferty's of Louisville Railbirds Hot Chicken Raising Cane's Ramen House Ramiro's Cantina Ramiro's Cantina Express Ramsi's Café Rawnaissance Desserts Recbar Red Hog Red Hot Roasters Red Lobster Red Robin Red Sun Chinese Restaurant Red Top Gourmet Hot Dogs Red Yeti Brewing Co. Repeal Oak-Fired Steakhouse Rice Bowl Rice Box Ricky B's Club Café Riot Cafe River City Drafthouse River House Restaurant River Road BBQ ROC Restaurant Roof Top Grill Roosters Rootie's Sports Bar Roots Royal's Hot Chicken Rubbie's Southside Grill Rubbin' Butts BBQ Rumors Raw Oyster Bar Ruth's Chris Steakhouse Sabor Latino Safai Coffee Safier Mediterranean Deli Saint's Sake Blue Sakura Blue Sala Thai Sal's Pizza & Wings Salsarita's Fresh Cantina Sam's Food & Spirits Sam's Gyro Sam's Seafood & Grill Samurai Sante Fe Grill Sapporo Japanese Grill Sarang Sarino Scene Schlotzky's Deli Scooter's Coffee Seafood Lady Seeds & Greens Deli Selena's At Willow Lake Tavern Senegambia African Restaurant Señor Iguana's Senora Arepa Sergio's World Beers Seviche A Latin Restaurant Shack In The Back BBQ Shady Lane Café Shahar Café Shalimar Indian Shark's Seafood Shenanigan's Irish Grille Sherrilli's Pizza Parlor Shippingport Brewing Co. Shiraz Mediterranean Grill Shirley Mae's Café Shogun Shoney's ShopBar Shreeji Indian Vegetarian Sichuan Garden Sicilian Pizza & Pasta Sidebar at Whiskey Row Silvio's Italian Restaurant Simply Thai Sinclair Smoked Salmon Sister Bean's Six Forks Burger Co. Skyline Chili Smashburger Smokey Bones BBQ SnoWhat Sol Aztecas Somewhere Louisville Sonal's Kitchen Soul Food Dining Soupy's Southern Express Southern Hospitality Spaghetti Shop Spinelli's Pizzeria Square Cut Pizza and Sugar Room Star Sushi Starbucks Coffee Starlight Café Starlight Coffee Co. Steak & Bourbon Steak 'n Shake Stevens & Stevens Deli Stomping Grounds Coffee Co. Stoney River Storming Crab Sub Station II Sue's Touch of Country Sugar & Spice Donut Shop Sunergos Coffee SuperChefs Sushi Master Sway Sweet Peaches Sweet Stuff Bakery Sweet Surrender Sweets By Morgan Swizzle Syrian Grill Abu Abdu Taco Choza Taco City Louisville Taco Tico Taj Palace Tandoori Fusion TanThai Restaurant Taqueria Don Juan

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 73 55 51 48 48 63 71 71 49 72 58 49 73 46 48 62 48 60 46 64 62 44 49 58 44 54 66 65 48 58 63 48 54 54 46 46 68 73 68 58 63 63 64 53 71 51 68 46 63 71 63 64 66 44 56 73 46 56 64 61 71 68 58 42 54 49 49 67 46 66 53 60 68 57 63 51 59 68 62 53 44 66 64 46 73 48 51 48 54 73 71 44 68 57 56 57 57 66 53 53 63 73 49 73 47 48 56 73 47 46 56 57 73 73 51 63 44 56 73 73 73 42 68 71 71 71 68 68 64 71

MAP #

Coffee / Tea Houses 1,2 Deli / Sandwich 14 Casual Dining 3 Burgers / Chicken 13 Burgers / Chicken 2,6,8,11,12 Asian / Japanese 2 Mexican 2 Mexican 16 Cafes 2, 8 Desserts / Bakery 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6,14 Cafes 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Seafood 3,13,15 Burgers / Chicken 3,8,15 Asian / Chinese 4 Burgers / Chicken 1 Microbreweries 16 Steakhouse 1 Asian / Korean 14 Asian / Chinese 13 Upscale Casual 2 Cafes 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Upscale Casual 7 Barbecue 7 European / Italian 2 Cuban / Caribbean 1 Burgers / Chicken 5,8,11,12,13,15 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 8 Asian / Japanese 2 Burgers / Chicken 1,5 Barbecue 13 Barbecue 14 Seafood 5 Steakhouse 3 Latin American 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Asian / Japanese 11 Asian / Japanese 3 Asian / Thai 11 Pizza 5 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,5 Casual Dining 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Seafood 13 Asian / Japanese 5 Mexican 13 Asian / Japanese 2 Asian / Korean 2 European / Italian 13 Upscale Casual 1 Deli / Sandwich 8 Coffee / Tea Houses 5, 12 Seafood Boils 1,13 Deli / Sandwich 14 Cajun / Creole 5 African 4 Mexican 11,13,15 Latin American 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Fine Dining 2 Barbecue 13 Cafes 7 Cafes 2 Indian 6 Seafood 4 European / Irish 2 Pizza 15 Microbreweries 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2,5,7,8,13 Southern / Soul Food 1 Asian / Japanese 6 Casual Dining 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Indian 6 Asian / Chinese 6 Pizza 1,11 Bistro / New American 1 European / Italian 3 Asian / Thai 3,5 Seafood 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 13 Burgers / Chicken 13 Casual Dining 2,3,6,14 Burgers / Chicken 1,5,13 Barbecue 6 Desserts / Bakery 13 Mexican 2,11 Bistro / New American 2 Indian 8 Southern / Soul Food 13 Deli / Sandwich 4 Southern / Soul Food 13 Southern / Soul Food 9 European / Italian 14 Pizza 2,3 Pizza 1 Asian / Japanese 16 Coffee / Tea Houses [36] Cafes 14 Coffee / Tea Houses 14, 15 Steakhouse 5 Burgers / Chicken 13,15 Deli / Sandwich 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 12 Steakhouse 8 Seafood Boils 11, 15 Deli / Sandwich 13 Southern / Soul Food 12 Desserts / Bakery 11 Coffee / Tea Houses 1, 2, 13 Casual Dining 2 Asian / Japanese 8 Upscale Casual 1 Deli / Sandwich 9 Desserts / Bakery 14 Desserts / Bakery 2 Desserts / Bakery 16 Fine Dining 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 4 Mexican 3 Mexican 2, 5 Mexican 12 Indian 8 Indian 8 Asian / Thai 14 Mexican 16


Guide Index_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Layout 1 3/1/22 4:10 AM Page 41

RESTAURANT

Taqueria El Mexicano Taqueria La Mexicana Taqueria Los Gorditos Tavern On Fourth Taylor's Cajun Meat Co. Taziki's Mediterranean Cafe Tea Station Chinese Bistro TEN20 Craft Brewery Terri Lynn's Cafe and Catering Texas Roadhouse TGI Friday's Tha Drippin Crab Thai Café Thai Noodles The B.A. Colonial The Back Door The Bard's Town The Bayou The Black Italian The Black Jockey's Lounge The Block Gourmet Deli The Café The Champagnery The Cheddar Box The Cheddar Box Too The Chicken Box The ChillBurger The Coffee Boxx The Coffee Zone The Corner The Eagle The Earl The Fat Lamb The Fishery The Fox Den The Goat The Grain Haus The Hub Louisville The Juicy Crab The Kitchen Table The Library The Manhattan Project The NuLu Sundae Club The Palm Room The Peach Cobbler Factory The Pearl The Pine Room The Post The Raven The Salad Chic The Silly Axe Café The Silver Dollar The Sports & Social Club The Starving Artist Café The Table The Water Company The Wing Zone Thelma's Deli Thirsty Hound Sports Bar Three Brothers Tikka House Tim Tam Tavern Time 4 Thai Tin Roof Tino's Tacos Toast on Market Toasty's Tavern ToGo Sushi Tokyo Japanese Tomo Japanese Restaurant Top Hat Café Topp't Pizza & Chopped Salad Torchy's Tacos Torino's Sandwich Bar Town Trifecta Troll Pub Under The Bridge Tsubaki Sushi & Bar Tucker's Tumbleweed Tuscany Italian Restaurant Twig & Leaf Union 15 Union Restaurant & GameYard Upland Brewing Co. Uptown Café Vallarta Mexican Seafood and Grill Varanese V-Grits Vibes Restaurant & Ultra Lounge Vic's Café Victoria Mexican Restaurant Vietnam Kitchen Village Anchor Pub & Roost Ville Chicken and Seafood Vinaigrette Salad Kitchen Vincenzo's Volare W.W. Cousin's Wagner's Pharmacy Walker's Exchange WayCool Café Week-End Burgers West 6th NuLu Which Wich? Whiskey Dry Wick's Pizza Wild Eggs Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion Wild Hops Bourbon Bar & Lounge Williams Bakery Wiltshire at the Speed Wiltshire On Market Wiltshire Pantry Bakery and Café Wingstop Wologisi Restaurant World of Beer Yamato Japanese Steak House Yang Kee Noodle Yellow Cactus Yen Ching Yoki Buffet Yummy Pollo Zanzabar Za's Pizza Zaxby's Zeggz Amazing Eggs Ziba's Bistro Zoe's Kitchen Zombie Taco

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 71 71 71 59 64 68 62 60 49 47 51 46 64 64 51 59 60 65 66 57 56 49 44 49 49 48 48 73 73 53 48 59 45 46 59 59 53 45 46 57 59 47 73 59 73 59 45 53 66 56 49 45 59 49 49 59 48 56 59 46 68 59 64 59 71 52 59 63 63 63 49 53 71 56 67 52 59 64 52 71 67 50 53 59 60 44 71 44 57 57 49 71 64 45 46 56 42 67 48 56 44 49 48 60 56 48 53 50 64 59 73 45 44 49 48 61 47 64 62 71 62 62 68 59 53 48 50 61 68 71

MAP #

Mexican 13 Mexican 13 Mexican 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Cajun / Creole 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3,5 Asian / Chinese 8 Microbreweries 2, 5 Cafes 14 Steakhouse 2,5,12,13,15 Casual Dining 1 Seafood Boils 9 Asian / Thai 7 Asian / Thai 13 Casual Dining 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Entertainment Dining 2 Cajun / Creole 1 European / Italian 2 Southern / Soul Food 1 Deli / Sandwich 5 Cafes 1 Bistro / New American 2 Cafes 3 Cafes 3 Burgers / Chicken 12 Burgers / Chicken 15 Coffee / Tea Houses 9 Coffee / Tea Houses 5 Pizza 8 Burgers / Chicken 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Bistro / New American 2 Seafood 11 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 Pizza 14 Bistro / New American 2 Seafood Boils 15 Southern / Soul Food 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Gastropub 2 Desserts / Bakery 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 9 Desserts / Bakery 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Bistro / New American 10 Pizza 13 European / Irish 3 Deli / Sandwich 1 Cafes 2 Bistro / New American 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Cafes 5 Cafes 9 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Burgers / Chicken 4,13 Deli / Sandwich 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 Seafood 9 Indian 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Asian / Thai 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Mexican 13 Casual Dining 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Asian / Japanese 5 Asian / Japanese 7 Asian / Japanese 14 Cafes 1 Pizza 14 Mexican 15 Deli / Sandwich 1 European / Italian 16 Casual Dining 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Asian / Japanese 5 Casual Dining 14 Southwest / Tex Mex [8] European / Italian 13 Breakfast 2 Pizza 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Microbreweries 16 Upscale Casual 2 Mexican 6 Upscale Casual 2 Southern / Soul Food 2 Southern / Soul Food 1 Cafes 14 Mexican 4 Asian / Vietnamese 13 Bistro / New American 5 Seafood 13 Deli / Sandwich 5 Fine Dining 1 European / Italian 2 Burgers / Chicken 3, 12 Diner / Home Style 13 Upscale Casual 1 Cafes 1 Burgers / Chicken 13 Microbreweries 1 Deli / Sandwich 6,8,14 Burgers / Chicken 1 Pizza 2,4,6 Breakfast 1,3,5,15 Asian / Japanese 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Desserts / Bakery 15 Bistro / New American 13 Upscale Casual 1 Cafes 1, 2, 8 Burgers / Chicken 6,12 African 4 Gastropub 8 Asian / Japanese 14 Asian / Chinese 5 Mexican 14 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 6 Latin American 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Pizza 2 Burgers / Chicken 5,12,13,14,16 Breakfast 5 African 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 8 Mexican 1

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 41


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:31 AM Page 42

GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price: $$$$ $$$$ $$$$ $$$$

under $9 = $10 - $14 = $15 - $20 = $21 & up =

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D

p

= Dinner

Bar = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser

f

= Full

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE, KY (unless noted otherwise) All phone numbers in KENTUCKY use area code 502 All phone numbers in INDIANA use area code 812

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 8969570. 211 Clover Lane has been tucked away across the railroad tracks in St. Matthews, in the corner of a little cluster of upscale shops since 1992. Those who know how to find it enjoy drinks in a quiet elegant lounge and dine off seasonal menus. Owner Andrew Smith and his staff keep 211 Clover Lane among the town’s top tables. $$$$ D pf 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Since taking over this Old Louisville landmark restaurant in 2004, Edward Lee has become a Food TV fixture and opened several new restaurants. Jeff Potteris the Executive Chef at this perennial top table and continues the adventurous prix-fixe menu. $$$$ D pf BARN8 10500 W. US Hwy 42, 398-9289. The newest project of Laura Lee Brown and Steve Wilson is to develop their Hermitage Farm as an agro-tourism destination. Building number 8 of the historic thoroughbred stable (where Dark Star, who defeated Northern Dancer in the 1953, was foaled) is now a restaurant open to the public. Diners can choose to dine at private tables (in the stalls) or rent the Hayloft for parties up to 200. Executive Chef Alison Settle’s eclectic menu features heirloom, local and seasonal ingredients drawn heavily from the farm’s extensive gardens. $$$$ D pf BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. This elegant, understated dining room has been an upscale lunch and dinner destination since 1992, an Old Louisville institution that draws patrons from across the city. The lavish white flowers in the bar remain, as does the crispy fish and spicy noodles on the menu. Also on the menu are well-made traditional dishes: fried chicken livers and shrimp cocktail, Bibb lettuce salad, filet mignon and seafood rigatoni. $$$ L D pf ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. Executive Chef James Adams oversees the formal dining room in one of downtown’s historic hotels. The Hot Brown is still on the menu, but new dishes tempt visitors and old timers: roasted cauliflower with quinoa and mushrooms, crispy skin duck and a vegetarian harvest plate. The chef’s table in the kitchen is still a great place for a special party. $$$ D p EVERYDAY KITCHEN 552 E. Market St. (Gateway to NuLu building), 805-7345. Mike Wajda, formerly of Proof on Main, and Tim Quinlan of Harvest, are in the kitchen of this “modern comfort food restaurant.” The 42 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

menu includes a Chesapeake cream of broccoli soup with crab toast, Farmer Joe's Pastrami beef belly with rye cavatelli, and a rotating "roast beast of the day" highlighting local farmer meats and in-house rotisserie. $$$ Br D p f HEIRLOOM CHEF’S TABLE 9448 Norton Commons Blvd., 822-1184. There are only 6 tables at this suburban outlet for United Catering. Chef Ryan Smith creates multi-course meals for small groups, emphasizing foods from local purveyors. $$$$ D p JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Inside its unprepossessing exterior is one of Louisville’s longestrunning top tables. Seating is tight but the food is consistently excellent. Chef Duncan Williams has continued classic menu items that regulars love (crab cakes, shrimp and grits) and worked in newer items (braised pork shank, squash risotto). $$$$ L D p LA CHASSE 1359 Bardstown Rd., 822-3963. Font-of-thehouse man Isaac Fox creates the ambience of a fine European country inn in the heart of the Highlands. The frequently-changing menu, overseen by Chef Alex Dulaney, fuses the tastes and techniques of Southern France and Northern Spain. $$$$ D p SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers an eclectic range of Latin American dishes in addition to its namesake, the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices. Continuing to get notice throughout the Southeast for his imaginative cooking, he is setting a standard of cool for the Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ D pf SWIZZLE 140 N. Fourth St. (The Galt House), 252-2500. The Galt House replaces Rivue, its 25th floor restaurant, with Swizzle, a retro-meets-modern redesigned room with a menu focused on steaks, chops and sustainable seafood served up from the open-concept exhibition kitchen in the middle of the restaurant, allowing diners to watch the action. The retro beverage program will focus on classic cocktails, with seasonal specials. $$$$ D p VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ L D pf

THE 1894 LODGE 409 E. Main St., New Washington IN, 628-9006. This ambitious restaurant, housed in a

historic building a not-too-distant trek up Rte 62, offers two different dining rooms and a bar area. The menu has some typical bar fare (burgers, calamari, sandwiches), but also some less usual items: mushroom arancini, chicken Gorgonzola, and a smoked half-chicken with quinoa salad.$$$ D pf 8UP ELEVATED DRINKERY AND KITCHEN 350 W. Chestnut St. (Hilton Garden Inn), 631-4180. This rooftop restaurant and bar above the hotel at the corner of Fourth and Chestnut has three elegant areas - an upscale casual dining room, the bar with a separate kitchen and menu, and an expansive outdoor patio that overlooks downtown. The bar kitchen’s two wood-fired ovens offer small plates to nibble while sipping; the main kitchen serves fine dinners. $$$ B D pf BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, 228-6962. Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell’s comfortable, casual restaurant in the Prospect Center continues to please regulars and to find new fans. The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ Br D pf BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491. Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Roman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ Br L D pf BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant renaissance, Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now, with three venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the greenchile won tons and the Bristol Burger. $$ Br L D pf CHARR’D BOURBON KITCHEN & LOUNGE 1903 Embassy Square Blvd. (Marriott Louisville East), 4911184. The J’town Marriott Hotel’s restaurant is on the Urban Bourbon Trail. Chef Raquel Romero’s eclectic menu offers Kentucky burgoo, Kentucky Kobb salad and several dishes (Buffalo Trace Reuben, Makers Mark ribs) that incorporate some of the bar’s 75 offerings of Bourbon. $$$ Br L D p THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd. (Mall St. Matthews), 897-3933. One of 175 outlets of the California-based chain, this popular restaurant maintains a large and diverse menu that entices and satisfies a wide range of diners. Food quality is above average for this kind of restaurant chain, though its namesake cheesecakes are baked in California and North Carolina. $$$ Br L D pf COPPER & KINGS ROOFTOP RESTAURANT 1121 E. Washington St., 561-0269. Up on the third floor of the distillery, with a fine view over the city, you can find a menu of cocktails using Copper & Kings distillates, and a food menu that ranges from the familiar (pimento cheese, Caesar salad) to the unusual (salmon tartine, sesame scallion pancake). $$$ Br L Dpf CULTURED CHEESE, CHEERS, AND CHARCUTERIE 1007 E. Main St., 409-8706. Made-to-order charcuterie boards, including some with vegan and vegetarian options. Cheese selections showcase the owner’s family’s Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheese and other mainly local food products. $$ L D p f DECCA 812 E. Market St., 749-8128. The handsomely redone Victorian building with its serene garden and breezy second-floor dining balcony is back under new management. The current menu has small (charred baby carrot salad), medium (pastas and charred octopus) and large ( Alaskan halibut and a wood-fired cauliflower with harissa and lentils) choices. About half the dishes are vegetarian. $$$$ D pf

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 43

DOC CROW’S 127 W. Main St., 587-1626. Doc Crow’s solidly anchors the dining choices on Whiskey Row. Oysters from both coasts, raw and fried, fried green tomatoes, pork rinds, shrimp and grits, all served in a handsome renovation of one of Main Street’s classic castiron front buildings. $$ L D p EQUUS & JACK'S RESTAURANT | LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. A Louisville institution since 1985 under the ownership of the late culinary icon Dean Corbett, Jared Matthews now runs both the restaurant and Jack’s Lounge. Matthews has made some physical updates, but has striven to keep the restaurant’s and the lounge’s classic upscale casual atmosphere and approachable menu. The signature mushroom fumé remains, along with satisfying entrées like Yankee pot roast, fried chicken with sawmilll gravy and Parmesancrusted sea bass. $$$ D pf FORK & BARREL 2244 Frankfort Ave., 907-3675. Chef/owner Geoffrey Heyde serves upscale modern American cuisine in upper Clifton, with an emphasis on local ingredients, craft cocktails and southern hospitality. Look for pork shank with roasted garlic grits, buttermilk-soaked and cornmeal dusted chicken livers and chocolate bourbon truffles. $$$ D p J. ALEXANDER’S REDLANDS GRILL 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ D p J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. A Prospect mainstay since 1994, J. Harrod’s substantial menu—grilled steaks and chops, pasta, seafood, fried green tomatoes and chicken livers with gravy—is served with aplomb in a quiet, comfortable dining room. Comfort food Sundays and Wednesday Italian Nights brings out special dishes. $$$ D p LEVEE BOURBON LOUNGE 3015 River Rd., 897-5000. John Varanese’s riverside music bar has been redesigned and rebuilt as a Bourbon-centric bar and lounge, with Bourbon barrel tables, sofas and easy chairs in the lounge, artwork and decor made from barrel tops and staves, and, of course, a large, eclectic selection of over 200 Bourbons (and other spirits). Order from the River House menu while you sip: sautéed mussels, grilled octopus, a charcuterie tray or any of the delights on the raw bar. $$ D pf MARKETPLACE RESTAURANT 651 S. Fourth St., 6253001. Going to a show downtown? Chow down first at Marketplace. The elegant decor, whether at the circular bar, in the serene dining room, or any of the three outdoor spaces will get you in the mood, and the seasonal Italian-influenced southern cuisine will get you to the curtain well-fed indeed. $$ L D pf MELBA'S CULINARY CANVAS 430 W. Jefferson St.,6537000. This eclectic downtown restaurant and bakery casts a wide culinary net. For lunch opt for sandwiches, ramen bowls or tacos, pasta dishes or meatloaf. Take home artistic candies, including cute marzipan animals, cakes or artisanal chocolates. $$$ B Br L p MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-4762. If you have pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s, The Melting Pot is for you. If you can melt it and dip things in it, it’s probably on the menu. $$$ D p MESH 3612 Brownsboro Rd., 632-4421. The lush modern building and the casual/elegant menu have made a strong presence in the neighborhood. The cosmopolitan menu includes kung pao calamari, beet salad, Amish chicken and mushroom strudel, all served in an atmosphere of “contemporary elegance and comfort.” $$$ Br L D pf NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 423-5822. An eclectic mix of California-inspired fusion dishes served

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining

RED = Advertiser

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 43


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 44

in a clean, crisp, informally classy atmosphere have made Napa a long-time favorite. Chef Seth Butkus’s lunch offerings range from smoked salmon wontons to Vietnamese salad. The lovely patio makes for lazy summer dining on baked goat cheese, vegetable pad Thai or smoked pork shank. $$$ Br L D pf PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St. (21c Hotel), 2176360. The restaurant attached to 21C Museum Hotel has, from its inception, under several different executive chefs, offered one of the most creative menus in town. The bison burger and charred octopus have been there from the start. The most recent menu includes salmon crudo and parsnip soup, duck confit and dumplings, and coconut curry spaghetti squash. $$$ B Br L D pf RICKY B'S CLUB CAFÉ 2901 Brownsboro Rd., 333-0110. This vaguely Moorish-style building that has housed several restaurants over the years is now a supper club run by the well-known pianist Rick Bartlett. His “world fusion” eclectic menu includes short ribs, fettuccine Alfredo, sea bass, “mystical” fries and Bartlett’s signature Bouncin' Back Burger. Bartlett, along with others, will entertain diners. $$$ D p RIVER HOUSE RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 3015 River Rd., 897-5000. John Varanese’s river-side restaurant complex is getting more complex as he begins renovations on the upper floor to create new dining and party spaces. The elegant reimagining of the former boat dealership building befits the always interesting seafood dishes inspired by Nawlins and Charleston, where Varanese began his career. There’s an extensive raw bar, too, and dockside service for boaters. $$$$ Br L D pf SCENE 501 W. Main St., 566-5297. Scene is the latest dining venture in the space at the Kentucky Center for the Arts that has seen a lot of things come and go. Open before shows for drinks and small plate dining served in the fast-casual style. Flatbreads, burgers, pasta dishes, crab cakes; a small but good wine and beer selection and a full bar. $$ D p SWAY 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 581-1234. The handsome dining room on the entry level of the hotel has a bar that opens to Fourth Street in good weather and a menu based on the “Southern Way,” from whence comes the name Sway. The fried chicken, cooked to order, quickly became a signature dish. $$$$ D pf UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 405-8898. The iconic Highlands restaurant re-opens under new ownership, with an updated kitchen and a renovated interior, but with many of the former kitchen crew and staff (including Chef Matt Weber), with a menu recreating many fan favorites, and some new additions. VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese’s signature restaurant (he has River House and Levee too) has a slate-backed interior waterfall and a folding front wall that opens in good weather. The lively, international seasonal menu is buttressed by frequent special wine, whiskey or beer dinners. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ D pf WALKER’S EXCHANGE 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House Hotel), 272-1834. The Galt House’s Kentucky-style brasserie, located in the West Tower, is styled after a 19th-century restaurant of the same name. The menu juxtaposes familiar French and American dishes — including classic Southern-style comforts like short rib hand pies and shrimp po-boys. $$$$ B Br L D p WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 589-5224. Understated elegance and creative dishes from Chef Rory O’Connell characterize this NuLu restaurant. The finely crafted small plates menu changes weekly to showcase the best seasonal ingredients. Start with the weekly charcuterie board or cheese plate, followed by a seasonal flatbread or salad, and perhaps a pasta dish. Open Thur.Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$ D pf

44 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

ANOOSH BISTRO 4864 Brownsboro Rd., 690-6585. Anoosh Shariat’s elegant Brownsboro Center space has an eclectic lunch and dinner menu that includes trout provençal, coconut curry tofu, grilled romaine salad, and house-made pastas and risottos. $$ L D p BOARD AND YOU BISTRO & WINE BAR 434 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 913-4109. Look for handcrafted cocktails, charcuterie boards with meats and cheeses from around the world, entrées, small plates, salads, soups and house-made desserts such as blueberry pie bar, mascarpone cheesecake and a pots de creme flight. $$$$ B L D pf BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838. Located in an historic Clifton building, Bourbons Bistro stocks a selection of more than 130 bourbons, including a barrel selection program. Chef Jereme McFarland’s bourbon-inspired, seasonally-influenced menu recently has featured tuna poke tacos, cacio e pepe pasta and bourbon bread pudding. $$$ D pf BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120. The use of an obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ D p CUVÉE WINE TABLE 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 242-5200. Scott Harper and others from the Bristol Bar & Grille organization have made this wine bar and café in the East End a fine stop for after work. Drop in to explore Master Sommelier Harper’s adventurous wine list with tasting pours and small plates of charcuterie, cheeses, salads and snacks from the kitchen. Look for regular casual classes organized on various wine themes. $$ L D pf DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. This informal Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ L D pf GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market St., 749-7100. Housed in a former service station in NuLu, Garage Bar serves up draft and bottled craft beers, Bourbons, seasonal cocktails and wine, pizzas from a wood-fired brick oven and Southern specialties, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. The ham flight is not to be missed. $$$ D pf HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. Hammerheads, one of the hippest of Germantown’s restaurants, run by owners Adam Burress and Chase Murcino, serve BBQ beef brisket, pork and lamb ribs, roasted duck sandwiches and soft shell crab tacos. $ Dpf

LOUVINO 1606 Bardstown Rd., 365-1921, 11400 Main St., 742-1456. Steve Ritchie, former CEO at Papa John’s Pizza, has taken over this popular wine bar and small plates restaurant. He is keeping on Executive Chef Tavis Rockwell and his staff, so fans will still be able to enjoy the seasonal shareable small plates menu and clever organization of the wine list. A myriad of wines by the glass are available fresh from their wine-dispensing cruvinet system. $$ Br D pf MERLE’S WHISKEY KITCHEN 122 W. Main St., 2908888. Tony Palombino’s popular Whiskey Row food and music spot across from the KFC Yum! Center offers live music on a regular basis and a menu that emphasizes tacos and Southern fried chicken. Sides offered include sweet potato casserole, long-cooked green beans and a candied bacon appetizer. 100 bourbons are currently on offer, including handpicked private barrels from Buffalo Trace, Maker’s Mark, Wild Turkey and others. $ L D pf NEIGHBORHOOD SERVICES 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. This casual eating option in the Omni hotel serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner and offers relaxed indoor and outdoor dining. Enter from the hotel or street. $$$ B L D pf NOOSH NOSH 4816 Brownsboro Ctr., 205-2888. Anoosh Shariat’s family-style eatery is close by his upscale Bistro in Brownsboro Center. Here, a rustic stone oven in an open kitchen offers “homey, comfort food.” Chef Peng Looi, of Asiatique and August Moon, cooks three nights a week. $$$ B Br L D pf NOUVELLE BAR & BOTTLE 214 S. Clay St., 631-9428. This French-style wine bar sells 40+ wines by the glass (in 3-, 6- or 9-ounce pours) and 200 to 300 wines by the bottle, focusing on affordable, interesting wines. A selection of beers, ciders, classic cocktails, bourbons and scotches also are available to accompany cheese and charcuterie boards, along with desserts. $ L D pf OFF THE RAILS TASTING ROOM AND WINE DEPOT 2118 Bruce Ave., 822-0738. Enjoy three favorite adult beverages at this Buechel winery – wine, craft brews, and bourbon. The wines made by owners Kenny and Denise Jewell include a Cabernet and Reisling, and several fruit blends. The beers and Bourbons are from all over Kentucky. $$ Br D pf P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese-themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinese-style dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$$ L D pf PHANTOM CAFE MODERN EATERY 1813 Frankfort Ave., 442-9878. Phantom Cafe offers a menu of soups, salads and specialty sandwiches and wraps. It also offers all-day brunch from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays. $$ Br L D f

HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd. There are a lot of places to quaff craft beers in town, but Holy Grale’s frequently changing draft selection is among the most esoteric. Couple that with the seasonally adapted menu of small plates and the oddity of being housed in a renovated church and you have a unique dining and drinking experience. $$ L D

SIDEBAR AT WHISKEY ROW 129 N. Second St., 6302012. On the west side of Whiskey Row, above Troll Pub under the Bridge, Sidebar focuses on burgers, Bourbon and beer, a potentially boffo combo for those going to or coming from the Yum! Center across the street. The emphasis is on craft cocktails served alongside a short but bold selection of sandwiches, appetizers and desserts. $$ LDp

HUGE IMPACT RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 2082887. This home-style restaurant takes over the spot on Fifth and Chestnut that had for decades been Pesto’s. Salads and sandwiches, fried corn on the cob, and daily specials like crab legs, lamb chops, and ribeye with loaded potatoes and greens. $$ Br L D

SOMEWHERE LOUISVILLE 1135 Bardstown Rd., 5526942. Now you can dine and have some cocktails, and then slide right next door to Nowhere for late-night fun and games. The Southern-inspired menu includes beer cheese and pretzels, smoked wings, buttermilk fried chicken and 3 varieties of flatbreads. $$ D pf

LOU LOU FOOD + DRINK 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776. Jared Matthews, who also operates Equus and Jack’s Lounge, continues the Café Lou Lou tradition of Nawlins-style Cajun food, but Chef Christian Garay has added other casual fare including pizza, pastas and calzones. $$ Br L D p

THE CHAMPAGNERY AT ARCHITYPE GALLERY 1764 Frankfort Ave., 896-8050. This Clifton business hosts art shows and now also has a full bar with a focus on more than 120 Champagnes and sparkling wines plus a menu of light bites – oysters, caviar, charcuterie, cheeses, fruit and desserts. $$$ D p

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 45

THE FAT LAMB 2011 Grinstead Dr., 409-7499. The first of Chef/owner Dallas McGarity’s dining properties, this comfortable, classy Highlands bistro serves lunch and dinner, focusing on small plates such as onion and chive hushpuppies, lamb meatballs, curry-seared salmon, tandoori-seared scallops and ricotta ghnocchi with truffled mushroom cream. $$ L D pf THE HUB LOUISVILLE 2235 Frankfort Ave., 777-1505. Clifton has taken to this sprawling modern restaurant, cocktail bar and adult rec center with gusto. The Southern-inspired small plates menu and its specials board of rotating entrees pleases multiple tastes. The bar boasts a big rum and tequila selection, with alcoholic floats a specialty. The lively patio is packed in good weather. $$ D pf THE PINE ROOM 6325 River Rd., 528-4422. Augusta Holland is behind the modern incarnation of this classic Prospect restaurant, in the space that most recently was Cast Iron Steakhouse. Start with, perhaps, the chicken liver lettuce wraps, or sweet potato falafel. Then go for the blackened pork chop or the grain bowl. The buttermilk fried chicken is a dining favorite. $$$ Br D pf THE SILVER DOLLAR 1761 Frankfort Ave., 259-9540. In this Clifton honky tonk bar and restaurant, the music, all on vinyl, is the “Bakersfield sound” — a fusion of Mexicali and American roots music. The southern country-style menu with sophisticated nuances has happy fans crowding in mosty nights. Choose from more than 80 Kentucky Bourbons, ryes, tequila and mescal, but no “foreign whiskey” like Scotch. $$ Br L D pf VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 708-1850. In the heart of Anchorage is this two-level Euro-village inspired concept. On the upper level, a French bistro with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs at The Sea Hag the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food-style menu is served lunch and dinner with weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with more than 50 craft and import choices accompany 55 Bourbons to boot. $$$ Br L D pf WILTSHIRE AT THE SPEED 2035 S. Third St., 6342976. This sunny, elegant café at the Speed Museum is currently open only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. The often-changing seasonal menu currently offers salmon and dill chowder, a breakfast croissant, and a vegetable frittata. $$ B Br L pf

BRENDON’S CATCH 23 505 S. Fourth St. (Embassy Suites), 909-3323. This downtown upscale seafood restaurant’s fish menu depends on what has come in fresh that day. The 2 and 3 tier seafood towers are a fun shared appetizer for a group. Other choices include lobster mac ’n’ cheese, cornmeal-crusted salmon, and wild-caught grouper and sea bass. There is a substantial steak selection as well. $$$ D p BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4666. This franchise concept from the Florida-based Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ D p CADILLACS CHICKEN AND FISH 7105 Fegenbush Ln., 287-3437. This family-operated food truck has found a permanent space, where you can find catfish, codfish plates, chicken tenders and fish tacos, with simple sides of fries, coleslaw, baked beans, mac and cheese, onion rings and hushpuppies. $$ L D p CAPTAIN CRAB SEAFOOD BOIL AND BAR 4112 Outer Loop, 384-9471. This Okolona-area restaurant’s menu includes raw bar selections, fried baskets (shrimp, chicken strips, catfish, calamari and gator meat) and seafood boil buckets containing shrimp, snow crab, lobster tails and all the accouterments. $$$ L D p

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining

RED = Advertiser

CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS RIVERSIDE GRILLE 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ Br L D pf CATFISH HAVEN PAY LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Catfish Haven, a simple, down-home eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County. Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their payto-fish lake. $$ L D f CUNNINGHAM’S CREEKSIDE 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. One of the longest-lived restaurants in the city, Cunningham’s has had several incarnations since 1870, and now pulls in old timers and new fans at its Harrod’s Creek location. There you can find fine fish sandwiches and pub grub, and absorb some of the nostalgia associated with this long-time favorite. $ Br L D pf THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993. Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. And on weekends the space morphs into Café Beignet, serving hearty breakfasts and New Orleans-style beignets. $ Br L D pf HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to find. Its oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ L D f HOOKED ON FRANKFORT 3202 Frankfort Ave., 6909835. The owners of Frankfort Ave Beer Depot operate this fish house two doors away. The menu features fried fish sandwiches, fish tacos, baskets of shrimp or oysters or frog legs. Clam/conch chowder and seafood gumbo, too, or mac and cheese and grilled cheese sandwiches for those who can’t do fish. $$ L D p HUNGRY PELICAN 5412 Bardstown Rd., 239-7145. The sole remaining representative of a quite popular chain still keeps up the tradition. The cooks and servers are old-timers who understand the intricacies of getting perfectly fried seafood to customers in timely fashion. Generously-filled rolled oysters, too. $$ L D pf JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ L D pf KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 8950544, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made Kingfish a popular favorite for many years. Aficionados of rolled oysters and frog legs can find both here, as well as a large selection of fried and broiled seafood, as dinners and sandwiches. Both locations boast river views. $$ L D pf MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. This popular riverside restaurant has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ L D f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ L D pf PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633. If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer, with no frills, this Jeffersontown tavern is just the

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 45


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 46

ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ L D f RED LOBSTER 4639 Outer Loop, 964-9647, 986 Breckenridge Ln., 899-3334, 951 E. Lewis and Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 285-0444. Consistent quality and moderate prices have maintained this seafood chain’s popularity in the casual dining category since its founding more than fifty years ago. Periodic promotions please repeat customers and draw new folks into the fold. $$$ L D pf RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucket-ofoysters and impressive raw bar. $$ L D pf SAM'S SEAFOOD & GRILL 4918 Poplar Level Rd., 9666940. The choices here include jack salmon, frog legs, grouper and red snapper, as well as catfish, tilapia and shrimp. The fish-averse can fill up on chicken wings or gizzards or a range of meat-filled sandwiches. $$ L D SHARK’S SEAFOOD 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 450-5775. Several types of crunchy-breaded fried fish - white fish, shrimp, catfish, salmon - to choose from, as well as wings and side dishes like fried mushrooms and fried okra. $ L D SINCLAIR SMOKED SALMON 2208 Dundee Rd., 5481203. You can find just verlasso salmon here, in various sizes of fillets, hot smoked over hickory, using a process developed by a hobbyist turned weekend seafood entrepreneur. Order ahead and takeaway only. $$$$ THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188. This friedfish eatery has been popular in the St. Matthews neighborhood since 1983. The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ L D f THREE BROTHERS 2001 Seventh Street Rd., 409-7447. The menu of this Algonquin neighborhood fish house includes Chicago-style fried perch, cod, salmon and catfish, the best seller. $ L D VILLE CHICKEN AND SEAFOOD 4322 Poplar Level Rd., 919-8994. The name certainly reveals the focus of this well-kept little neighborhood spot that has re-worked an old Arby’s building. There are crawfish and crab legs, too, corn on the cob and very commendable real Southern sweet tea. $$ L D

SEAFOOD BOILS 502 CRAB HOUSE 5023 Mud Ln., 963-5848. Another entry in the sudden efflorescence of Cajun-CreoleLouisiana-style seafood restaurants, featuring crab boils, spicy crawfish, crab legs and some dishes inspired by Vietnamese/Texas/Louisiana fusion cooking, such as its own variation on pho. $$ L D p f LEGEND CRAB SEAFOOD HOUSE 3020 Bardstown Rd., 939-9888. Located in the former Buckhead’s space in the Gardner Ln. shopping center, legends offers seafood boils and fried seafood, with sides of corn, coleslaw, fries or sausages. $$$ D p f PIER 17 CAJUN SEAFOOD 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-9857, 5362 Dixie Hwy., 963-5120. Pier 17 introduced Louisville to the Vietnamese-Cajun fusion concept of Asian-spiced seafood boils (which originated on the Texas-Louisiana coast). Now this variation on the seafood boil has opened a second location in Pleasure Ridge Park. $$$ L D pf SEAFOOD LADY 3207 Fern Valley Rd., 907-5251, 601 E. Jefferson St., 907-5251. The lure here is fresh fish, shrimp and crab legs brought up from the Gulf Coast, prepared with Cajun spices, and served simply and relatively cheaply. $$ L D f STORMING CRAB 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 590-3773, 4801 Outer Loop, 999-9998. Here you can

46 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

get market price seafood boils in several spice levels and flavors (crab house Cajun, garlic butter and plain) to take home or dump on paper-covered tables to eat as they should be eaten. Other Cajun dishes too, like gumbo and crawfish etouffé. $$$ L D THA DRIPPIN CRAB 1219 W. Jefferson St. (Village at West Jefferson), 749-6005. Superchef Darnell Ferguson offers a range of sauces for his seafood dishes that will be different from the standard “boil-in-the-bag” offerings of other Cajun/Creole seafoods places. On the menu: seafood lasagna, seafood birria tacos and lobster rolls. $$$ L D p THE JUICY CRAB 970 E. Lewis and Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN (812) 920-0272. The Duluth, Georgiabased seafood chain has taken over the Clarksville space that had been Logan’s Roadhouse. It is another seafood boil operation, but it also offers fried fish, chicken wings, and mussels, along with snow crab legs and lobster tails. $$ L D

BOB'S STEAK & CHOP HOUSE 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. The signature restaurant located off the lobby in the Omni Hotel offers refined service and a decor focused on American thoroughbred racing. A steak menu offers seven prime selections, from ribeye to filet to 28-oz. porterhouse. Seafood, too (crab cakes, scampi, lobster tails), and sumptuous desserts. $$$$ D p BRAZEIROS CHURRASCARIA 450 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 290-8220. This Knoxville-based company’s first satellite location has been a downtown hit. A churrascaria works like this: You choose drinks, visit the salad bar and await visits from “gaucho chefs” who bring yard-long skewers of grilled meats (beef, lamb, sausage) to your table for slicing — as much as you wish — along with side dishes. $$$$ L D pf BROOKLYN & THE BUTCHER 148 E. Market St., New Albany IN. 590-2646. Ian Hall of The Exchange Pub + Kitchen opened this steakhouse in a renovated historic hotel with lots of cool touches: black and white tiles on floor and walls, an open kitchen and a vintage bar counter from an old local Woolworth’s store. The bar program emphasizes bourbon, Scotch and craft beers. The menu includes fresh seafood, small plates and lots of beef — New York strip, bone-in ribeye, flat iron steaks — all as locally sourced as possible. $$$ D pf CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-2298. Buck’s owner Curtis Rader also operates this riverside eatery where the kitchen cooks steaks and sides in cast iron pans at moderate prices. The ambience is upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music,” Rader promises. $$$ D pf CATTLEMAN’S ROADHOUSE 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-7623, 139 Historical Trail, 543-3574, 3500 St. Joseph Rd., New Albany, 725-7166. These local outlets of the small regional chain offer mid-priced beef choices and starters such as fried pickle chips and jalapeño poppers, grilled chicken, salmon, and plenty of sandwiches. $$$ L D pf DEL FRISCO’S 101 Whittington Pkwy., 897-7077. Over a year after having its roof collapse, this long-time St. Matthews steakhouse has resumed operation at the former location of Z's Oyster Bar & Steakhouse. The high-end menu offers steaks, a variety of surf ’n’ turf selections, seafood and, of course, its famous spinach dish, green phunque. $$$$ D p f JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Caesar’s Southern Indiana, Elizabeth IN, 866-676-7463. After you hit it big at the tables, Binion’s has everything a high roller craves. Start with oysters Rockefeller or shrimp cocktail, French onion soup or crab bisque. Then, choose Chilean sea

bass, lobster tail, rack of lamb or a choice of prime steak, including Wagyu tenderloin. $$$$ D p JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 584-0102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ L D p LE MOO 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. Restauranteur Kevin Grainger has created a lively and amusing space with a decor that delights in lots of steel, neon and velvet. The menu has some unusual choices: a filet “flight” of choice, prime and wagyu beef; sliced loaded baked potato; drunk-cut fries; chicken and waffles; and drinks like the Moohatan or the Le Mule. The Sunday drag brunches have become a thing. $$ Br L D pf LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9789, 1540 Alliant Ave., 266-6009., 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ L D p LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5800, 4813 Outer Loop, 969-9790. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ L D p MALONE'S 4370 Summit Plaza Dr., 618-0702. This Lexington-based restaurant serves lunch and dinner. Menu choices include various cuts of prime steaks, fish and seafood, including sushi, and house favorites, such as bottomless salad and bread. $$$ L D p f MATT WINN STEAKHOUSE 700 Central Ave. (Churchill Downs) 636-4888. This premier steak house restaurant at Churchill Downs is a stunning and extensive dining space, with exquisite food and a memorable view over the landmark track and infield. The restaurant, named for Matt Winn, one of the most influential figures in thoroughbred racing, the restaurant is open all year, not just during racing meets, serving crab cakes and kung pho calamari, charcuterie boards, selections from the raw bar, and entrées of prime beef with a choice of sauces, rack of lamb and seafood. $$$$ D pf MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This belowground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ D p OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 6520 Signature Dr., 9648383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville IN, 2834329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ D p PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 896-9234. A local favorite for more than 60 years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets. Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steakhouses in town. $$$$ D pf REPEAL OAK-FIRED STEAKHOUSE 101 W. Main St. (Hotel Distil), 716-7372. The main restaurant at the new Hotel Distil on Whiskey Row fires the steaks over used bourbon barrel staves. If steak isn’t your dish, check out the sole meunière, the truffled spaghetti, the well-stocked raw bar, or grab a blue crab omelet at lunch. As you might expect, the spirits list is deep. $$$$ B Br L D p RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The long-standing Louisville location of this New Orleans-based international chain is perched atop

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 47

the 16-floor Kaden Tower. Ruth’s Chris serves excellent steaks, chops and seafood in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ D p STEAK & BOURBON 1321 Herr Ln., 708-2196. Ole Restaurant Group has branched out with this affordablypriced premium steakhouse. In addition to the signature 24 oz. cowboy cut Angus ribeye (aged a minimum of 30 days) the menu offers pan-roasted chicken, grilled Verlasso salmon, steak & cheese hand pies, Marylandstyle crab cakes and carrot cake with bourbon caramel icing. Try the House Punch or choose from over 100 bourbons, including a reserve list. $$$ L D pf STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ Br D p TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy. (Green Tree Mall), Clarksville IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy., 448-0705, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600, 13321 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0085, 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8975005. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ L D p

CORNER 102 W. Main St., 583-1888. Corner is the bar and restaurant attached to the chic, contemporary Aloft Hotel downtown. The emphasis here is on the bar, with a wine and cocktail menu longer and more creative than the food side. Still, there are solid bar munchies, from dips and deviled eggs to sandwiches, salads and tacos. $$ B D pf DOC'S BOURBON ROOM 129 W. Main St., 742-2449. Doc Crow’s has taken over the space next door to create what they say is “the nation's biggest whiskey bar.” It carries thousands of Bourbons and other whiskeys, served as flights, tastes, pours and cocktails. Menu items include beef tartare, lamb flatbread, fingerling poutine and fresh-baked pretzels. A coffee bar is open early in the morning. $$$ D p DOWN ONE BOURBON BAR & RESTAURANT 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. Situated down one flight below street level, this cool, shaded watering hole stocks 150plus Bourbons, local craft beer and serves wines by the glass. Well-priced bar food like biscuit sandwiches, tacos and Frito Pie make for a quick, satisfying lunch. Bluegrass music several times a week too. $$ L D pf

GRALEHAUS 1001 Baxter Ave., 454-7075. Gralehaus has fully reopened its cafe for coffee, breakfast and lunch and a new concept, Grale Goods, will open next door to Holy Grale in early 2022, selling beer and other foodstuffs. The new concept, Gralehaus and Holy Grale are collectively known as "The Grales.” $$ B L f H. M. FRANK'S AN O'SHEA'S PUBLIC HOUSE 355 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 913-1174. Upon gutting the interior and re-building the facade of this 1880’s-era building, the original identity of H.M. Frank’s Dry Goods store was uncovered, a discovery that has given this O’Shea’s outpost its name. The bar is made from repurposed barn wood, there’s an event space upstairs, and upscale bar food is created by Chef John Knightly. $$ L D pf THE MANHATTAN PROJECT 2101 Frankfort Ave., 749-8925. This upscale gastropub has expanded, with a main room now looking out on the lively Cifton streetscape. The new menu includes short rib sliders, chicken and waffles and four kinds of fries. Mac ’n’ cheese has its own menu section listing almost a dozen possible adds ons—from bacon to crab to pork cheek to grilled chicken. TMP has become popular for its brunch, tacos & trivia Tuesdays, and the original space in the rear is a great sports watching or special party venue. $$ Br L D pf WORLD OF BEER 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 690-4280. This Florida-based chain serves a wide variety of craft beers and sports a tavern menu that is a few notches above the usual bar food: wings and sandwiches, sure, but also chimichurri meatballs, ahi tuna poke and chipotle BBQ chicken flatbread. Its giant pretzel and beer cheese is a great shared nibbler. $$ L D pf

80/20 @ KAELIN’S 1801 Newburg Rd., 200-8020. The original Kaelin’s, with its dubious history of inventing the cheeseburger, underwent several incarnations before current owners Bill DuBourg and Matt Staggs revived its nostalgic charm. There’s an indoor/outdoor rectangular bar, a fenced-in wrap-around patio and an adjacent malt shop and ice cream parlor. The restaurant menu features burgers, of course, as well as salads, sandwiches and dinner entrées. $$ L D pf BUFFALO WILD WINGS 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 8997732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 10206 Westport Rd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-9464, 4917 Outer Loop, 964-5803. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ L D pf

EXCHANGE PUB + KITCHEN 118 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 948-6501. Owner Ian Hall has made his gastropub in a sumptuously renovated historic building such a fun place to sit and sample the eclectic bistro-style menu that he has had to expand his dining room and patio. Wash things down with something from its substantial beer, wine and cocktails list that even includes house-made ginger ale. $$ L D pf

BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132. This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ L D f

FOUR PEGS BEER LOUNGE 1053 Goss Ave., 634-1447. Twelve craft beers on tap and a 30 bottle beer list bring in the fans, who also appreciate the award-winning veggie burger and other well-priced pub grub such as a chicken and waffle sandwich and an estimable burger with fried green tomatoes and beer sauce. $ D f

THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg IN, 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ L D

GALAXIE 732 E. Market St., 690-6595. The guys behind RYE just down the street now have the Green Building space for a bar dedicated to moderately priced drinks ($7 cocktails are what they are shooting for) and a bar menu of “international-inspired street food,” which was described as “easy to take with you,” so you can nosh as you imbibe. $$ L D pf

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining

RED = Advertiser

BURGERIM 3733 Lexington Rd., 901-1101. This fastgrowing California-based chain offers burgers made with beef, salmon, lamb, chicken and falafel. Chicken wings and milkshakes too. $$ L D f

CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ L D CHICKEN SALAD CHICK 12009 Shelbyville Rd., 8424341, 1520 Veterans Pky., Jeffersonville IN, 504-2360. The name says it all: here you can find a baker’s dozen

styles of chicken salad, as a scoop or a sandwich, plus pimento cheese sandwiches, soups and salads. $$ L D f CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-8100, 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3662. At this growing chain, you can get your wings doused in an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicy garlic barbecue to sweet Thai chili to inferno — a habanero-based sauce that has a legit name. Also breaded and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches, appetizers and salads. $ L D pf CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001, 1555 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0810, 11801 Interchange Dr., 618-0838. When the signature item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain popular. $ L D f DADDY RICH’S 617 W. Oak St., 290-9110. The kitchen incubator Chef Space gave birth to this new Old Louisville soul food spot. Owner Rodrick Martin named it after his late grandfather, who inspired him. The limited cooked to order menu includes chicken wraps, mini-waffles and ten wing flavors. DIXIE CHICKEN 1785 W. Oak St., 690-2748, 3947 Dixie Hwy., 448-2102. A growing fried chicken spot that serves up honest fried chicken and good, standard sides at reasonable prices. $$ L D DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery, an institution that goes back more than 70 years, hasn’t changed much. It opens early, stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ L D f DOUBLE FLAME BURGER 5408 Valley Station Rd., 4500118. At this South End spot, you can build your own flame-grilled burgers, or opt for other sandwiches – pulled pork grilled chicken, grilled cheese or fried baloney. $ L FAMILY TIES 1030 Cecil Ave., 907-6548. This West End convenience store also has a vibrant carryout business offering a family-friendly menu of burgers, wings, rib tips, hot dogs and brats. $ B L D FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany IN, 944-9958, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 4261702, 4226 Shelbyville Rd., 891-8848, 4917 Outer Loop, 822-3702, 13303 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1027. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshly-grilled burgers, big smoky kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries and a cheery rock’n’roll sensibility. $ L D GET IT ON A BUN AT BOOTY’S 822 State St., New Albany IN, 292-3800. Another successful food truck finds a permanent home. Booty’s made their name with the Booty Dog, Booty Burger and chili but the menu now ranges from jerk chicken to pulled pork on brioche to a meatloaf cupcake.$ L D GRIND BURGER KITCHEN 829 E. Market St., 851-7333. Owners Liz and Jesse Huot are firmly established now in NuLu, giving them much-needed parking, as well as a full bar. In addition to their signature burgers, the Huots have a chopped chicken sandwich, an “adult” grilled cheese made with Brie and Gruyere and a couple of salad choices. $$ L D f HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2723 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403, 303 W. Cardinal Blvd., 708-1818. Burgers, dogs and fries with a baseball theme highlight these suburban spots, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ L D f HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standing reputation as a party www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 47


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 48

scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ L D pf INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-9099, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970 Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8980, 4590 Dixie Hwy., 447-4856, 4419 Cane Run Rd., 448-1109, 4901 Poplar Level Rd., 969-5352. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ L D JAGGERS RESTAURANT 6464 Dutchmans Ln., 2429311. The Texas Roadhouse folks are trying out a new concept. This fast-food restaurant offers chicken sandwiches, burgers, shakes and salads. $$ L D f JOELLA’S HOT CHICKEN 3400 Frankfort Ave., 8952235, 13401 Shelbyville Rd., 254-1111, 1225 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville IN, 913-7555. You can find Nashvillestyle hot chicken – medium, hot and hotter – at all three locations. House-made sides local craft beers and wine and fresh-squeezed lemonade as well. $$ L D pf KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013 $ LD MUSSEL & BURGER BAR 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 3844834, 113 S. Seventh St., 749-6451. The unusual combination in the name sparks immediate interest; the consistently excellent offerings of both shellfish and meat patties keeps satisfied customers coming back. Choose from six different sauces for the mussels, and 12 clever twists on burgers. The downtown venue has an expanded menu and a handsome outdoor courtyard. L D pf OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisville-based chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ L OSKAR'S SLIDER BAR 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 395-9010. Jesse and Liz Huot (Grind Burger Kitchen) expand on their burger concept with a new slider bar. Oskar’s (the name inspired by the Huots’ son, Oskar) offers over a dozen slider choices – chicken, fried fish and pork belly in addition to the expected ground beef mini-burgers. Fries and salads, too. $$ L D p RAILBIRDS HOT CHICKEN 4520 Poplar Level Rd., (Derby City Gaming), 961-7600. Grab some wings or jumbo tenders at your choice of heat level or other nonspicy chicken dishes and sides like fries and slaws before you head back to the games. $ L D RAISING CANE’S 10490 Westport Rd., 425-4040, 6811 Bardstown Rd., 654-7737, 5212 Dixie Hwy., 742-9035, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 822-1188, 1905 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-9441. A national chain with a single core product — chicken fingers. Six locations in town now, all offering simple and straightforward fried chicken finger combos and sandwiches with slaw and fries on the side. $LDf RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 948-9895. This Seattlebased chain serves up its well-regarded “gourmet burgers” and trimmings in two East End locations and S. Indiana. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ L D pf RED TOP GOURMET HOT DOGS 1127 Logan St., 6402032. The journey from street cart to food truck to storefront is complete. Ryan Cohee's all beef, nitrate- and preservative-free hotdogs can be found now in Shelby Park. Bison and Waygu beef choices, as well as vegan/ vegetarian-friendly dogs. Columbus-style sauerkraut balls, too. $ L D pf ROOSTERS 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 590-3391, 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 883-1990, 5338 48 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

Bardstown Rd., 618-1128, 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 7082798. With a wide footprint in Ohio, this Columbus-based wings-and-brews chain is now spreading its franchise reach across Indiana, West Virginia and Kentucky. Its six local properties have gained popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ L D pf ROYALS HOT CHICKEN 736 E. Market St., 919-7068, 10310 Shelbyville Rd., 242-7200. Ryan Rogers first pressure-fries his chicken, then, in the Nashville style, blankets it with a paste of oil and spices delivering mild to “Gonzo” heat. If you’re not in the mood for bird, salads and even Southern-fried tofu are on the menu. $$L D f SIX FORKS BURGER CO. 1039 Ash St., 565-9750. This popular Germantown spot has moved to larger digs in Schnitzelburg. In addition to burgers you can find hot dogs, Polish sausage, not-your-ordinary grilled cheese and several vegetable side dishes.$ L D p SMASHBURGER 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 326-4141, 312 S. Fourth St., 583-1500, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport) 363-2526. A growing chain located mostly in the West and the South now has three Kentucky locations serving made-to-order Angus beef burgers, and is looking to open more area locations. $ L D f STEAK ‘N SHAKE 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak ‘n Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ B L D THE CHICKEN BOX 5905 Terry Rd., 618-0430. This Pleasure Ridge Park restaurant offers six flavors of wings, all cooked to order: buffalo, extra hot, bbq, lemon pepper, hot garlic Parmesan and lemon pepper hot. The waffle biscuit has impressed fans. $ L D f THE CHILLBURGER 500 LaFollette Station Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 728-8283; 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 725-9157. These two Southern Indiana burger places tout freshly-ground USDA Choice beef, fresh-cut fries and milk shakes and sundaes from hormone-free dairy. Chicken and fish sandwiches, too. $ L D f THE EAGLE 1314 Bardstown Rd., 498-8420. This small Cincinnati-based chain serving fried chicken, five-cheese macaroni, house-made biscuits and other comfort food, has established itself firmly in the Highlands restaurant row. The three-season patio is a great place to enjoy the beer list. $ L D pf THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445, 3038 Hunsinger Ln., 618-0106. Wing Zone, with locations scattered across the eastern U.S., excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Tame to Nuclear Habanero. Burgers, fried shrimp and sides as well. $ L D f W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd. 8979684, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 742-1583. After 30+ years of offering build-your-own burgers on substantial housebaked buns and a huge condiment bar, this popular burger place has finally opened a second location, in a revamped Steak ’n’ Shake building. $ L D WEEK-END BURGERS 5600 National Tpke., 994-8215. Another food truck business has gone off the wheels. Week-End Burgers boast their “burgers are the way burgers used to be made years, years ago, good, tasty & messy).” Philly sandwiches, too, and sides and desserts. $ LDf WHISKEY DRY 412 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live!) 749-7933. Ed Lee expands his local empire to Fourth Street Live! with this casual burger and whiskey bar. The menu features a suggested whiskey pairing for each burger from among the 200 whiskeys from America, Ireland, Japan and elsewhere. $$ L D pf WINGSTOP 4812 Dixie Hwy., 409-6000, 2007 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7171. This Texas-based chain with

500 restaurants nationally, now reaches into Louisville. Their specialty? Wings of course, and you can get them 9 different ways. $$ L D p ZAXBY’S (8 Locations) There are now 9 outlets in Louisville and Southern Indiana. The casual dining chain cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wingz and fingerz - that sort of thing. $ L D

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ L f ANGIE’S CAFE 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 920-0831. Angie’s cooks up a solid breakfast menu – eggs, omelets, breakfast sandwiches, pancakes – and creates hearty hot and cold sandwiches for lunch, at pleasantly retro prices. $ B L AROMA CAFÉ & BAR Caesar’s Southern Indiana, Elizabeth IN, 866-676-7463. Grab a bite before hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $$$ B L Dp ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ B D p BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. Tables are always at a premium at this popular Crescent Hill breakfast and lunch spot. And its artisanal bakery continues to produce hearty European-style breads that have set a gold standard on restaurant tables and in better grocery stores around town. $$ B L D f BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln. (Crown Plaza Hotel), 367-2251. $$$ L D p BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. Named after the owner’s dear, departed beagle, Boomer’s is a popular, low-key downtown deli in the heart of the museum district. Sandwiches, burger and fries, homemade chocolate cookies, and good coffee. $ L BORSALINO CAFÉ & DELI 3825 Bardstown Rd., 8075325. This Buechel store is somewhere between a coffee shop, a fancy bakery and a deli. You can stop in for your morning coffee and sweet bun to go, buy a cake for dessert or take away a stuffed pita for lunch. $ B L D f CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. Highlands diners enjoy an eclectic and international menu at this friendly corner place, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, just about 24/7. $ B L D pf CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch or supper. $$ B L D f CC’S LOW CARB KITCHEN 800 S. Fourth St., 215-0797. This carb and calorie-conscious restaurant takes over the classy space in the 800 Building that was the first location of bar Vetti. The menu offers both traditional and lowcarb pastas, flatbreads and elevated comfort foods. The full-service bar offers a selection of sugar-free low-calorie cocktails and wines. $$$ D p CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot where owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as lasagna and Brie and cranberry-stuffed chicken. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $ L Df

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 49

CHRISTI'S CAFÉ 12810 Dixie Hwy., 937-3110. This family-operated restaurant in Valley Station serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, all the dishes you know you want: omelets, hotcakes, wings, chili, bean soup, giant burgers, open-faced roast beef with mashed potatoes and liver and onions. $ B L D

JW CAFÉ & BAKERY 2301 Terra Crossing Blvd., 9075248. The bakery part of this East End spot offers scones and cupcakes and other expected bakery treats. The café part has a variety of lunch items, including Korean specialties. The smoked salmon salad has won fans quickly. $ B L f

CHRISTMAS MORNING CAFÉ 2359 Frankfort Ave., 614-7409. This festive Christmas-themed café serves breakfast, brunch and lunch items year round. If you like holiday whimsy with your brunch, try the "Rudolph's fresh berry crepes,” Grandma Klaus biscuits and gravy or "Pere Noel” French toast. $ B Br L f

KAYROUZ CAFÉ 3801 Willis Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ L D f

CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. This family-owned and operated, classier-than-the-averagestrip mall place has quietly turned out delicious menus for better than 30 years. The Frederick family serves an eclectic menu (blackened tenderloin, Andouille-stuffed chicken, garlic-basil chicken pizza) and dishes like the Irish pork have won prizes at local charity contests. $$$ L D pf

ORANGE CLOVER KITCHEN & MORE 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-1005. Find quick breakfast and lunch items here, such as the Orange Clover muffin: poppy seed and blood orange flavors with a blood orange drizzle, as well as a cupcake version with cranberries. Two soup specials offered every day out of a recipe rotation of 75 possibilities

CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 8961488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual quality café fare in this comfortable frame house in Clifton. Three variations on chicken salad are available, 8 different green salads, 8 hot sandwiches (many with cute names: The Big Dirty, The Guido). Vegetarian choices and cheesecake or cookies, too. $$ L D CUP OF JOY 2507 Bank St., 919-9074. This coffee shop and café, located in a former bar, is a project of Haven Ministries and run mostly by volunteers. According to founder Esther Lyon, the food is “homemade, downhome cooking … biscuits and gravy, homemade potato soup, chicken and dumplings, turnovers, pastries.” Nothing on the menu tops $5. $ B L DERBY CAFÉ EXPRESS 704 Central Ave. (Kentucky Derby Museum), 637-1111. You can get both grab-andgo eats, and made-to-order breakfast and lunch items before or after your visit to the Derby Museum. At breakfast, choose from hot and cold breakfast items, fresh pastries and kolache. The lunch menu offers delistyle sandwiches, paninis, soups, salads, Derby Pie (of course) and Benedictine. There is also a full bar. $ B L pf FARM TO FORK CAFÉ 2425 Portland Ave., 365-3276. Farm to Fork, for many years a premier catering company known for its Southern favorites made from scratch from regionally-sourced ingredients, has moved its operations to a former Portland firehouse and has opened a café serving breakfast and lunch. The seasonal menu includes grits, biscuits, soup, salads and sandwiches. $ B L p FLORA KITCHENETTE 1004 Barret Ave., 963-5592. Under new ownership, this breakfast and lunch spot is still all-vegan, making vegan adaptations to things like scrambled” eggs” (made with mung beans), buttermilk pancakes, and various pastries. $$ B Br L f FULL STOP FILLING STATION 1132 E. St. Catherine St., 260-8046. This former car repair shop is now a grab and go coffee shop and deli, offering locally-sourced food, coffee and a few grocery items, a limited to-go beer section and some beers on tap. Café open until 5; kitchen closes at 2 p.m. $ B L p HOT BOX EATERY 438 W. Market St., 822-3995. Try their fresh soups, salads, sandwiches, wraps and daily specials. Menu choices include a Brie and salami wrap, Indonesian chicken peanut satay, pork schnitzel, a turkey club wrap and a gyro — in other words, an appealingly diverse selection. $ L J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistro-style alternative to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $$ B L pf

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining

RED = Advertiser

PURE BLENDZ 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 640-8668. This kiosk at the Logan Street Market offers pure, unprocessed foods in the form of superfood smoothie bowls, avocado toast, kombucha, lemonade tea fogs and more. $ L D f PURRFECT DAY CAT CAFÉ 1741 Bardstown Rd., 9165051. One room is a wine bar with snacks and small bites provided by local bakeries. The other room, by reservation, is a Cat Room, populated by cats needing homes, provided by the Humane Society. Bring in a drink, and play and cuddle with kitties — and maybe take one home. $ B L D p RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700, 10639 Meeting St., 357-0005. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands (and now at a second location in Norton Commons). Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu, where you can find Cuban, Jamaican, Greek, and Middle Eastern dishes at moderate prices. A weekend brunch and late-night hours add to the draw. $$ L D pf RED HOG 2622 Frankfort Ave., 384-0795. Kit Garrett and Bob Hancock, owners of Blue Dog Bakery, now also have this butcher shop and café offering artisan cured meats in Crescent Hill. Pasture-raised pork, beef, bison, lamb and poultry are available. The café serves small plates and pizzas fired from their wood-burning oven. The bar offers craft cocktails and 12 beer taps. $$ L D pf RIOT CAFE 574 S. Fourth St., 709-5654. Olivia Griffin has taken over the Craft(s) Gallery & Mercantile space adjacent to her Tiki Bar to provide a safe space for progressive conversation and refreshment. Part bodega, part cafe and bar, and part art gallery, Griffin sets aside a percentage of sales to fund a loan program for people of color to start or grow a food or beverage business. $$ B Br L SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 893-5118. This perennially popular little East End eatery, long a goto choice for breakfast and lunch, now provides dinner on Friday nights too. $ Br L D f SHAHAR CAFÉ 1511 Bardstown Rd., 653-7083. Anselmo’s Italian gives way to this eclectic eatery whose owners have devised a menu of Euro-Asian entrees and snacks. The wide-ranging menu includes beef kabobs, Russian piroshki, samosas and poutine. Weekend entrée specials may include plov (a central Asian rice and meat dish), shashlik (similar to shish kebab), pelmeni (Russian dumplings) and borscht. $ B Br L D STARLIGHT CAFÉ 19816 Huber Rd., Starlight IN, 9239813. This café in the Winery building at Huber Farm provides light lunch items such as seasonal soups, Rueben sandwiches, a turkey club, chicken salad or artisan flatbread pizza. Dine inside in the dining room or outside on the patio that overlooks the 550-acre farm. Huber wines and cocktails made from spirits distilled on the premises available too. $$ L D pf

TERRI LYNN'S CAFÉ AND CATERING 133 E. Market St., New Albany IN, (812) 923-1503.After two decades in the catering business, owner Terri Lynn Doyle now has a brick-and-mortar café in downtown New Albany, in the space that had recently been Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café. The menu features Terri Lynn’s staples such as salads, baked goods and sandwiches. $$ B L f THE CAFÉ 711 Brent St., 589-9191. The transition is complete. The Café is now across the street from its original Paristown location, in a newly renovated, airy space, part of the Paristown Pointe development. The menu, with its complement of hearty breakfast and lunch dishes, remains the same. $$ B Br L D pf THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. Since 1975 this St. Matthews tradition has delighted ladies who lunch, hungry students who munch, and just about everyone else with their sandwiches, pasta salads and tasty desserts. It caters parties with almost 50 choices of appetizers, party sandwiches, dips, cheese rings and crostini. $ L f THE CHEDDAR BOX TOO 109 Chenoweth Ln., 8961133. Cheddar Box owner Nancy Tarrant has extended her presence with a café just across the parking lot. Look for the same tasty salads, soups and desserts that have made her take-away business so popular. $ B L THE SILLY AXE CAFÉ 2216 Dundee Rd., 290-7197. A completely gluten-free restaurant. Most recently home to Diorio’s Pizza, Silly Axe (a play on celiac disease) has a deli counter and a selection of pre-made items for takeaway. The menu offers meat, vegan and vegetarian choices, daily quesadillas and five house sandwiches. $$ L D pf THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ L THE TABLE 1800 Portland Ave., 708-2505. This West End non-profit, social entrepreneurship experiment serves locally-grown, fresh food and operates under a pay-whatyou-can model. Pay suggested prices if you can, or if not, contribute your time. Or donate more to “pay it forward.” The menu offers soups, salads, sandwiches and sides. $ L D TOP HAT CAFÉ 1300 Muhammad Ali Blvd., 583-8822. Located inside the Old Walnut Plaza, this neighborhood coffee shop and breakfast and lunch café, named after an historic West End nightclub, is a project of the Louisville Central Community Center, in its effort to connect the Russell neighborhood to its past and to encourage fellowship and neighborhood networking.$ B L D VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 9444338. $ L D WAYCOOL CAFÉ 120 W. Broadway, 582-2241. Wayside Christian Mission trains people here in its community reentry program in restaurant service and management. Breakfasts for under $5; a lunch buffet is $8 for unlimited trips. A dinner menu too. It’s a do-gooder place that serves good food. $ L D WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 581-8561, 6301 Moonseed St., 581-8560, 605 W. Main St., 749-1683. Caterer/ Restaurateur Susan Hershberg’s popular bakery and café operation now has three locations, with the opening of a downtown café in the former Atlantic No. 5 space. At all three you can find artisanal breads, scones and croissants, full breakfasts (Tuscan egg sandwich, breakfast grain bowl, frittata, smoked salmon plate) as well as sandwiches, side salads and paninis. $ B L

BREAKFAST BIG BAD BREAKFAST 984 Barret Ave., 289-8227. The space that will forever be known as the old Lynn’s Paradise Café is now part of the regional chain Big Bad Breakfast. The extensive breakfast and lunch menu www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 49


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 50

includes Creole omelet, filled with shrimp and andouille, chicken and waffles and huevos rancheros made with grits, chicken sausage and saucy black beans. $$ B Br pf BISCUIT BELLY 900 E. Main St., 409-5729, 3723 Lexington Rd., 690-2945, 818 W. Kenwood Dr. (Colonial Gardens) 384-4545. Chad and Lauren Coulter, of LouVino fame, own this breakfast- and lunch-oriented eatery. You’ll find over-sized biscuit sandwiches filled with chicken, country ham or brisket; oatmeal, hash and Nutella toast, as well as an adult beverage program that includes beers and coffee-inflected cocktails. There’s non-alcoholic coffee, too, and eggs however you like them. $$ B Br L pf CON HUEVOS 2339 Frankfort Ave., 384-3027, 4938 US42, 384-3744, 400 S. Second St. (Omni Hotel). This popular Mexican breakfast and lunch spot with locations in Clifton and the Eastern suburbs has added a downtown outlet. Expect huevos rancheros, chilaquiles, breakfast-style enchiladas (with eggs, of course), frijoladas, churros and molletes. Tortas and tacos at lunch as well. $ B Br L EGGS OVER FRANKFORT 2712 Frankfort Ave., 7094452. Husband and wife team Jackson and Cortney Nave have creatively refurbished this Crescent Hill space into a “very traditional” breakfast spot. Its menu includes omelets, eggs Benedict, waffles and oatmeal, as well as salads and sandwiches for lunch. $ B Br L HIGHLAND MORNING 1416 Bardstown Rd., 365-3900, 111 St. Matthews Ave., 883-0203. You can order breakfast anytime at both locations, with an eclectic menu that also encompasses brunch, burgers, soul food, Southern dishes and vegetarian fare as well. $ B L D MORNING FORK 1722 Frankfort Ave., 830-9500. A new concept from Geoffrey Heyde, owner of Fork & Barrel Restaurant, takes over the space long held by North End Café. The focus is breakfast, brunch, and lunch: Short rib eggs Benedict, crepes, cornmeal pancakes in the morning; soup, salads, sandwiches and hearty entrées at lunch. $$ B Br L p f TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 4518944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ B L D f WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 618-3449, 121 S. Floyd St., 690-5925, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN 913-4735. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can now be found at this growing mini-chain’s fifth outlet. $ B Br L p ZEGGZ AMAZING EGGS 11615 Shelbyville Rd., 8821650. This quick-service breakfast and lunch spot offers five house omelets (plus the chance to build your own), three variations on eggs Benedict, as well as biscuits and gravy, croque madames, waffles and pancakes. Luncheon fare includes a B.A.L.T (the ‘a’ is for avocado), salads and soups. $$ B Br L pf

A NICE RESTAURANT 3129 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have branched out to three locations. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ BL

50 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

AGAVE & RYE EPIC TACOS 426 Baxter Ave., 873-5111, 324 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 993-8226. This Covington-based chain has added a second area store in southern Indiana. Offerings include tacos, bourbon, arcade games and 70+ tequilas. The Rooster taco contains crispy chicken, mac & cheese and hot sauce. The Bang Bang is a vegetarian dish, with crispy cauliflower, corn fritters, queso and spicy carrots. $$ L D p f APPLEBEE’S 4717 Dixie Hwy., 448-1399, 10006 Will Way, 231-1661, 4535 Outer Loop, 969-1228, 771 E. Lewis and Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-3594.. This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ L Dp ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 2392200, 302 Bullitt Ln., 425-0077. A lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ L D p BAER’S CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany IN, (812) 924-7348. Under new ownership, this successor to the long-running River City Winery has the same winemaker, with Brandon Noe as the new chef. $$ L D pf BLIND SQUIRREL 592 N. English Station Rd., 384-6761. This American-style restaurant is part of the King Louis Sports complex. The 400-seat, two-story dining facility boasts outdoor seating overlooking the sand volleyball courts, 27 TVs inside, a performance venue, a cigar humidor and outdoor smoking lounge. Chef Chris Goss serves up his take on American family standards: burgers, sandwiches, pizza and so on. $$ L D pf BOOMTOWN 110 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 590-1314. A third restaurant takes over the former home of the legendary South Side Inn, Boomtown focuses on affordable classic dishes: several burgers, including a wild game option, steak dinner with two sides and pork chops. $$ L D pf BRICK HOUSE TAVERN + TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-3182. Brick House, a Houston-based chain, has upgraded its image with an increased focus on food. Serving brunch, lunch and dinner, with a half-dozen local beers on tap, and an unusual menu of beer cocktails. $$ L D pf

bowls and wraps, with a choice of meat or tofu. Their signature drink is the Dreamsicle Shake. $ L D DENNY’S 4030 Dutchmans Ln., 896-2669, 434 Eastern Pkwy., 636-2538. What better place for travelers to get breakfast than Denny’s? This venerable chain knows its customers, pleasing them with familiar diner food in big portions. The late-night scene in this 24-hour refuge for the hungry makes for colorful fun. $$ B Br L D DOUBLE DOGS 13307 Shelbyville Rd., 244-4430. Double Dogs, a Bowling Green, Ky.-based chain with four locations, has its first Louisville-area restaurant in Middletown. Double Dogs describes itself as “a family friendly restaurant with a sports atmosphere,” serving a variety of appetizers, sandwiches, hot dogs, burgers and pizza. $ L D pf EAT YOUR BOURBON MARKETPLACE 2708 Frankfort Ave., 618-0939. Owner Matt Jamie extends his Crescent Hill Bourbon Barrel Foods concept with this grab-and-go prepared foods store that uses recipes from Jamie’s "Eat Your Bourbon" cookbook: charcuterie boards, sandwiches and other prepared foods from Chef-inResidence Michael Crouch and Butchertown Grocery Bakery. $$ B Br L D p FIRST WATCH 201 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-6075, 960 Breckenridge Ln., 618-1955, 1205 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 575-3447, 2225 Taylorsville Rd., 4447744, 12913 Shelbyville Rd., 233-0770. This Floridabased chain offers both traditional breakfast fare (fried eggs, sausage), proprietary specials, like French toast Monte Cristo (made with ham, turkey and Swiss cheese), crepes with plenty of fillings and healthful dishes like egg white omelets and cranberry nut oatmeal. $ B L GAME 2295 Lexington Rd., 618-1712. Though under new ownership, the specialties here remain the same: sliders, meatballs and burgers made from ground exotic meats. Start with bone marrow or fried frog legs, try some wild boar chorizo sliders, or build your own burger from kangaroo, venison or alpaca, with bun choices ranging from brioche to pretzel to Kaiser roll. $$ D f GANDER, AN AMERICAN GRILL 111 S. English Station Rd., 915-8484. Chris and Anne Mike, of Goose Creek Diner, have opened Gander, An American Grill, serving steaks, burgers, pasta and sandwiches — "a little bit of everything that makes America what it is," according to Mike. $$$ Br L D pf

CHAMPIONS GRILLE 505 Marriott Dr. (Radisson Hotel), Clarksville IN, 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ B Br L D p

GATSBY’S ON FOURTH 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3200. The casual dining space on the first floor of the Seelbach reflects its connection of the hotel to F. Scott Fitzgerald. There are two breakfast buffets, American and Continental, as well as a la carte choices from the griddle or from a “Healthy Sunrise” menu. $$ B L p

CHEDDAR’S SCRATCH KITCHEN 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ L D pf

GERMANTOWN SOCIAL 1318 McHenry St., 709-7669. Taking over the space that had a short run as Couvillion, Germantown Social is a family and neighborhood-friendly place helmed by.Chef Nate Gibson, who comes over from owner Shay Tinsley’s BA Colonial. The offerings include lunch, dinner, and brunch on Sundays. $$ D p f

CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 3018181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880, 3007 Poplar Level Rd., 638-5202, 940 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 670-3000. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ L D

GREEN DISTRICT SALADS 126 Breckinridge Ln., 4095293, 225 S. Fifth St., 822-3055, 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 565-4986, 1449 Bardstown Rd., 792-9011. This growing quick-service restaurant chain focusing on build-yourown chopped salads (or you can order from a menu). Lunch diners can opt for soups and wraps too. $$ L D

CORELIFE EATERY 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 670-5680, 9365 Viking Center Dr., 709-7131. This Syracuse-based franchise offers vegetable and grains bowls, bone and vegetable broth, and grass-fed steak, chicken and tofu power plates. $$ L D CURRITO 6460 Dutchmans Pkwy., 883-0043. This Cincinnati-based chain offers Asian versions of grain

HARROD’S CREEK TAVERN 6313 River Rd., 919-8812. Commuters trundling home to the suburbs can mingle with Prospect residents, river rats and parched kayakers docking out back on Harrod’s Creek. Look for an expanded bar food menu, brown bag lunches to go and late-night food service. $ L D pf IN SEASON 324 W. Main St., 323-3200. Sourcing ingredients from his farm, owner Daniel Passafiume, offers healthy options like salads, stir fry and harvest

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 51

bowls, designed with what is currently in season. The menu will rotate at least four times per year. $$ L INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. IHOP fans can choose to go out to the East End or across the river to satisfy their jones for the national chain’s inimitable food. $ B L D JOE'S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 4347470. The Lyndon landmark has returned to its old spot, replacing Red Barn Kitchen, which had replaced Joe’s. The bar is rebuilt and another stuffed moose has been found. But Olé Restaurant Group remains a partner, providing the food: smoked wings, brisket chili, cheese fritters, a mac and cheese burger and a daily lunch plate, all at prices that will appeal to Joe’s original fan base. $$ L D pf KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646. Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $$ L D

NAÏVE 1001 E. Washington St., 749-7856. This Butchertown vegetarian restaurant has been catering for some months in preparation for its opening as a sit-down restaurant. Its dishes include savory rice bowls, burritos, frittatas and quiches, savory toasts, salads and sandwiches. $$ D pf NOODLES & COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 632-0102, 4302 Summit Plaza Dr., 791-9015, 319 Cardinal Blvd., 632-2846. This Colorado-based fastcasual chain offers an eclectic noodle array: Asian style (pad Thai, Bangkok curry), pastas (Tuscan fresca, penne rossa) — or select from a lineup of savory sandwiches and salads.. $ L D f O’CHARLEY’S 1901 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-8372, 962 Breckenridge Ln., 899-9430, 4404 Dixie Hwy., 4479203. O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-and-seafood menu with the motto

MAPLE STREET BISCUIT COMPANY 1004 Bardstown Rd., 384-8022. This growing Florida-based breakfast chain has taken over the too-long-empty Yang Kee Noodle space in the Highlands. The menu features fresh biscuit dishes, from-scratch sausage and shiitake gravies and homemade jams and jellies. Waffles, grits and oatmeal, too. $$ B Br L f

PORTAGE HOUSE 117 E. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 913-4250. Dallas McGarity has changed the focus of his cozy riverfront casual restaurant to upscale bar food and sandwiches. Even simple things still have the McGarity touch: Sriracha chicken wings with cucumber yogurt sauce, Greek meatloaf & smashed potatoes with spinach and feta. The cornmeal-coated catfish sandwich is served on buttered toast, and the black bean burger comes on a brioche bun. $$$ L D pf

MOYA'S AMERICAN KITCHEN 10000 Linn Station Rd., 496-6692. This "good old American comfort food" restaurant in Jeffersontown offers fare such as jalapeño hushpuppies, fried green tomatoes, grilled cheese and tomato soup, smothered pork chop, chopped steak, meatloaf and fried catfish.$$ L D pf

RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining

RED = Advertiser

SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-2323. Fans of Sam Anderson’s steaks, chicken, pizza and pasta know it is well worth the trip up into the Knobs above New Albany to enjoy the conviviality of his restaurant, and his always satisfying take on classic American steak, sandwiches and seafood. $$ L D p SHONEY’S 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ B L D SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 340 Whittington Pkwy., 429-5773, 4024 Dutchmans Ln., 721-0093, 3505 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 7257176. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ L D SUPERCHEFS 1702 Bardstown Rd., 409-8103. The funky comic book-themed decor in Darnell Ferguson’s Highlands restaurant celebrates super heroes during breakfast and lunch, and super villains at dinner. His menu reflects his super-sized sensibilities: the SuperChefs Omelet, the Pancake Platter, and a seafood pizza with a petite lobster tail on top. $$ B Br L pf TGI FRIDAY’S 416 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 5853577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ L D pf THE B.A. COLONIAL 818 Kenwood Dr. (Colonial Gardens), 242-8686. Another entry into the Iroquoisarea resurrection of the historic Colonial Gardens. The menu here features American casual cooking, such as

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022

51


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 52

freshly-ground burgers, salads and seafood. A full bar serves a five-cocktail list, margaritas, rum punches, and its own take on the Old Fashioned. $ L D p f

BORROMEO’S PIZZA & ITALIAN 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 968-7743. Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $$ L D pf

TOAST ON MARKET 620 E. Market St., 569-4099. This breakfast and lunch favorite has gained a loyal following and tremendous word-of-mouth. Be prepared to wait for tables for weekend brunches. $ B Br L pf

CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ L D pf

TRIFECTA 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 618-3970. The name does not refer to a betting pool at the track, but rather the culinary triad — pizza, salad and burritos — on the menu at this Clifton restaurant. There are standard choices in each category, but you can build your own dish as well. $$ B L D TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany IN, 944-9999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a downto-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ L D p

8TH STREET PIZZA 411 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 725-0004. This “boutique, pay-it-forward pizza shop and ministry” serves New York style pizza with a “pay what you can afford” concept. Pay the full suggested price, pay what you can afford to pay, or pay the full amount of the suggested meal price plus a little extra to "pay it forward”. $LDf ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 367-0580. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $$ L D ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4771 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-to-order pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $$ L D ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany IN, 945-1149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-9805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $$ L D ARNO’S PIZZA 3912 Bardstown Rd., 384-8131.$$ L D BEARNO’S PIZZA (14 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 14 locations. $$ L D f BLAZE FAST-FIRE’D PIZZA 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 8957800, 13317 Shelbyville Rd., 822-3677, 4055 Summit Plaza Dr., 915-8731, 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarsville IN, 406-4347. At this California-based pizza franchise you customize your own pie from a lineup of meat and vegetable toppings, cheeses and several sauces. The pie bakes in just 2 minutes in a flaming hearth oven. There are ready-to-order signature pies also for those who can’t make up their minds. $$ L D p f BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 935-5540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ L D f BOOMBOZZ PIZZA · WATCH BAR 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 265-4591, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 913-4171. After two decades of success with his gourmet pizza stores, Tony Palombino is reimagining his brand and retooling both the decor and the menus at all of his locations. That reimagining includes audio/video enhancements, a new company logo and slogan (“Crafted for You”), an expanded wine and cocktail list and a dedicated takeout entrance. New menu items include jumbo tater tots stuffed with bacon and cheddar cheese, a cauliflower crust pizza, seasonal pizzas and game day specials. $$ L D pf

52 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ L D CHEF'S CUT PIZZERIA 9901 LaGrange Rd., 265-1320. This reasonably priced Lyndon pizza place has sandwiches too, from chili dogs to turkey clubs, and pasta dishes. $ L D p CHUBBY RAY’S 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. This family restaurant has grown from a small mostly carryout spot to a large (400 seat) Jeffersontown institution. The menu offerings have expanded as well. In addition to signature pizzas, you can find quesadillas and rooster wings, burgers and subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D pf COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3730 Frankfort Ave., 742-8200, 11615 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0106, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). Middletown and airport travelers now partake in what St. Matthews diners have enjoyed for a few years–excellent pizzas made in coal-fired ovens burning at 800 degrees F, crisping the crust in 4 minutes and “leoparding” it with black spots. Toppings are fresh and regionally-sourced. $$ L D pf DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1836 Mellwood Ave., 890-6331. Dan McMahon sells generously-topped pizzas at the walk-up venue in the courtyard of the Mellwood Arts Center. The choices are mostly traditional with outliers like Hawaiian and Kentucky Hot Brown. His butter-drenched garlic breadsticks, aka “Cracksticks,” are a fan favorite. McMahon’s pizzas can also be found at Tim Tam Tavern. $$ L D DEENO'S PIZZA & WINGS 9100 Dixie Hwy., 653-7814. This ambitious little family-run place rolls and shapes house-made dough to order, and bakes, then air-fries wings before tossing them in one of 11 sauce coatings. The weekend buffet offers pizza, wings and a taco bar. $$ Df DERBY CITY PIZZA 5603 Greenwood Rd., 933-7373, 2500 Crittenden Dr., 384-4777, 10619 Manslick Rd., 742-3940, 2331 Brownsboro Rd., 290-0677, 9910 Linn Station Rd., 384-8733. It is always nice when a business’s name is self-explanatory. But the menu offers burgers and wings, too, along with toasted subs and pasta dishes. The Brownsboro Road location is carry-out only. $$ L D pf DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 618-3424, 917 Baxter Ave., 614-8424. Residents in St. Matthews and in the Highlands can savor pizza by the slice, as well as by the mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilled sandwiches, salads, wings, queso sticks, and a good selection of domestic and import beers. $$ L D pf EMMY SQUARED PIZZA 825 E. Market St., 785-5800. This Detroit-style pizza chain joins a growing list of properties in the Nulu Marketplace, anchored by West Sixth Brewing. The square pizzas here share the menu with burgers, including the double-stack "Le Big Matt.” $$$ L D p f FAT JIMMY’S 12216 Shelbyville Rd., 244-2500. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. $$ L D

GOODFELLAS PIZZERIA 642 Baxter Ave., 398-5704. This Lexington-based regional pizza chain, known for its large, late-night slices, is one of the early tenants in the apartment/retail development across from the entrance from Cave Hill. Pizzas are denoted by Mafia-style names: the Wiseguy, the Don, Tommy “Two Times.” $$$$ L D HIDEOUT PIZZARIA 5620 Barrett Ln., 742-3145. This family-friendly sports bar has 12-foot TV screens, pool and cornhole, arcade games and live music, in addition to pizzas, burgers, spaghetti and an array of sandwiches. $$$ L D HOMETOWN PIZZA 4041 Preston Hwy., 363-4880, 9601 Newbridge Rd., 409-6276, 12607 Taylorsville Rd., 7428700, 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-4555. The four local outlets of this chain offer pasta dishes, hoagies and stromboli as well as pies like the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. The Preston Highway location opened an adjacent craft brewery; the beers brewed there are available in all Hometown locations. $$ L D p IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ L D JAKE & ELWOOD’S 2230 Frankfort Ave., 690-2167. The main draw to this Clifton spot is Chicago-style deep dish pizzas, but Jake and Elwood’s menu includes hot dogs and sausages, Italian beef sandwiches, wings, chili, fries and salads. $$ L D p JET’S PIZZA 101 S. Hubbards Ln., 895-4655, 3624 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1700, 235 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-4440, 6523 Bardstown Rd., 239-0000, 2500 Bardstown Rd., 458-5387, 10494 Westport Rd., 426-1181. Now with seven Louisville outlets, this Detroit-based chain offers sit-down service and carryout. The menu features eight crust flavors and some gourmet pizza options such as a BLT and chicken parmesan. $$ L D f LEGACY PIZZA & BAKERY 1001 Vincennes St., New Albany, IN, (812) 725-0021. This sincere little pizza joint sells New York-style pizzas, calzones, strombolis and breadsticks. $$ L D LITTLE CAESARS PIZZA (10 Locations) This pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ L D LUCKY LEOPARD PIZZA 1032 Story Ave. Located inside High Horse Bar in Butchertown, Lucky Leopard focuses on thin crust Neapolitan pizzas, flash-cooked in a 900degree oven. The pizza dough is also used in the Panozzo sandwiches, flash baked to order and filled with pulled pork and caprese with black olive vinaigrette, among other choices. $$ D p LUIGI’S PIZZERIA 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. New York City-style pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, has been making inroads in River City, but Luigi’s was one of the first to offer in its authentic form here. $$ L f MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 2469517. A pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishment. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $$ L D MAC'S @ MILE WIDE 636 Barret Ave. (inside Mile Wide Beer Co.), 409-8139. Beneath the silos at Mile Wide Brewery, Mac’s offers a concise menu of personal-size pizzas with clever names, also salads and appetizers that pairs well with Mile Wide’s tap list. There’s even a Nutella dessert pizza. $$ L D p MARCO’S PIZZA 2011 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-1144. A rapidly growing (300+) pizza chain from Toledo, Ohio, adds to the choices of takeout pies in New Albany. Ironically, its CEO lives in Louisville and commutes to Toledo. $$ L D MIMO’S NEW YORK STYLE PIZZERIA 2708 Paoli Pike, New Albany IN, 945-7711. People move to the Knobs for

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 53

its bucolic setting, but locals still crave their pizza fix. Mimo’s provides that with daily specials, such as Buffalo pizza, calzones, heroes, wraps or salads. Mangia, mangia! $$ L D p MOZZA PI 12102 Lagrange Rd., 890-4832, 1020 E. Washington St. Tom Edwards began MozzaPi several years ago as one of the first food trucks in Louisville. At his Anchorage pizza place he drafts artisanal pies from flour he mills himself. He makes bread too, and gives courses in artisanal baking. Now with an outpost in TEN20 Brewery. $$$ L D pf MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-5005, 10035 Dixie Hwy., 632-2504, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0933. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw. $$ L D NEON PIZZA 1201 S. First St., 635-6960. This Old Louisville corner has been the site of several businesses over the years. The newest branding is as Neon Pizza, a name that disguises the fact that favorite sandwiches and soups from the Toonerville Deli days are still available, along with, of course, pizzas. $$$ L D pf NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. The remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. $$ L D OLD SCHOOL NY PIZZA 12907 Factory Ln., 882-1776, 10600 Meeting St., 882-3000. You want Sicilian-style pizza, just like they make in Brooklyn? Now you can get it in these two Eastern suburbs locations. Top it with vegetables supplied by local farmers, or tie into a calzone and finish with gelato. $$ L D pf ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 4542711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 653-7243. Impellizzeri’s massive pies, loved for a generation, are the draw but there is also a full menu of Italian-inspired meals including hoagie sandwiches and pasta dishes at all three locations. $$$$ L D pf PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (8 Locations) There are eight locations for this take-and-bake pizza purveyor scattered around town. $$ L D PARLOUR PIZZA 131 W. Chestnut St., Jeffersonville IN, 914-7400, 2636 Frankfort Ave., 895-9400, 225 State St., New Albany IN, 920-6400, 133 W. Liberty St., 8881515. It all started with a lively beer garden operation at the food of the Big Four bridge. Now there are four locations on both sides of the river. All locations have 40+ beers on top and serve New York-style pies. $$ L D pf

offers a variety of handmade pastas in a restored 19th century Butchertown building. $$ D pf PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $$ L D pf PIZZAVILLE 2901 Goose Creek Rd., 754-3001. The owner of this suburban shop once was a pizza scientist, overseeing corporate pizza dough varieties. Now he sells his own versions of New York-style hand-tossed and Detroit deep dish pizzas at this former Bussman’s Bakery location near Westport Rd. $$ L D PRIMO'S PIZZERIA 2043 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 7497072. Based on a recent visit, this new spot is off to a great start. There are no conveyor belts here. Welltrained pizza makers give each pie individual attention, the toppings and accents (like fresh basil) are fine quality, and the assortment of crusts — wheat, thin, rising, deep dish, cauliflower, broccoli — is first rate. The lunch special, ten bucks for a big fresh salad with a generous personal pizza is a steal. $$ L D f SAL’S PIZZA & WINGS 812 Lyndon Ln., 365-4700. In addition to generously-topped pizzas, you can find panini, subs, burgers, and fried fish at this inviting spot in a Lyndon strip mall. $$ L D pf SHERRILLI'S PIZZA PARLOR 496 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $$ L D f SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 629 S. Fourth St., 589-8686, 8133 Bardstown Rd., 491-3663. Ready for takeout or eat-in, both the downtown storefront and its suburban sister site offer good, standard pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $$ L D pf SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 4005 Shelbyville Rd., 895-0755. This locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their Philly Cheesesteaks and massive slices of pizza has added a third location. All are open until 5 am nightly Wednesday through Saturday. $ L D SQUARE CUT PIZZA AND SUGAR ROOM 741 E. Oak St., 290-5721. The Sugar Room serves soft-serve ice cream in unusual flavors: burnt marshmallow, chocolate sea salt, s’mores swirl and others. Roman-style pizzas, with thin but airy crusts, is the concept in the larger Shelby Park space, which also sells Italian cured meats. $$ L D f THE CORNER 4111 Murphy Ln., 426-8340. $$ L D THE GRAIN HAUS 41 W. First St., New Albany IN, (470) 588-2337. Part of Floyd County Brewing, the separate building across the court yard boasts a wood-fired pizza oven and a rotating list of guest beers. $$ D pf THE POST 1045 Goss Ave., 635-2020. Germantown has long needed a classic New York-style pizza joint, and this spot, in a former VFW post, has provided it. Pizza is available by slice or whole pie, mostly classic tomato sauced varieties, but a few oddities, like the chicken dinner pizza with Buffalo-based sauce, chicken, cheddar, onion and ranch drizzle. Calzones, subs and salads, too.$$ D p

PIZZA DONISI 1396 S. Second St., 213-0488. Old Louisville hipsters have long needed a nearby pizza joint. Now they have it and it’s owned by Danny Fitzgerald, impresario behind Mag Bar. Get it by the slice or in whole artisan pies, along with appetizers, fried ravioli and more. $$ L D f

TOPP'T HANDCRAFTED PIZZA 373 Professional Court, New Albany IN, 725-8891. This Elizabethtown-based fast-casual pizza and salad concept serves fast-fired (in an 800-degree oven), handcrafted pizzas and made-to-order chopped salads. The thin crust dough is made onsite daily in original, wheat and gluten-free versions. One price regardless of the number of toppings. $$ L D f

PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9454405, 1701 E. 10th St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-8286. The pizza is baked in a sturdy, stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. We heartily recommend the barbecue pizza. $$ LD

UNION 15 5205 New Cut Rd. (Colonial Gardens), 6537494. The name of this pizza and tap house refers to Kentucky joining the Union as the 15th state. The menu includes Chicago thin crust pizza, wings and sandwiches. The bar has more than 50 beers, wines and bourbon on tap. $$ L D pf

PIZZA LUPO 1540 Frankfort Ave., 409-8440. Max Balliet, the owner of Holy Molé taco truck, now also has Lupo, a casual Italian restaurant where he bakes up pizzas on a fire-engine-red wood-fired oven. Along with pizza, Lupo

WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 3348 Hikes Ln., 907-5542. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at both of its eateries. The pies

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining

RED = Advertiser

are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $$ L D pf ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ L D

AMERICAN SMOKEHOUSE STADIUM 5580 Hwy. 62, Jeffersonville IN, 282-6700. This Southern Indiana BBQ joint does the usual stuff – brisket, pulled pork and chicken. But also look for the smoked prime rib, burnt ends, smoked lamb gyros or fried tofu. $ L D p BABIE BAC'Z GOOD GRILL 8533 Terry Rd., 619-1873. This far South End family-owned barbecue restaurant smokes up baby back ribs and rib tips, half chickens and wings and several sandwiches, including the Bacz Attack, which combines ham, bacon and pork. $$ L D BABY MAE'S 1817 Graybrook Ln., New Albany IN, 9147040. Barbecue and soul food in the old Mom & Pop’s Cone Corner building. Baby Mae’s reasonably priced menu includes everyone’s comfort foods: ribs, pulled pork, smoked turkey, mac and cheese, home fries and the “grandaddy of chili dogs.” $ L D BACK DECK BBQ 801 W. Kenwood Dr., 705-7662. What began as a popular barbecue food truck has settled down at the late, lamented Jimbo's Bar-b-Que spot near Iroquois Park. In addition to the expected pulled pork and chicken, brisket and sausages, burnt ends are available Friday and Saturday. $$ L D f BARREL 33 TAVERN & GRILL 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. This Middletown outpost has a long menu of better-than-the-usual pub grub (barbecue, chicken made several ways, tacos), salads, wraps and sandwiches (including a Kentucky Cuban, made with country ham and pimento cheese). The bar runs a robust bourbon program. There’s a lively atmosphere all nights, and live music on weekends. $$ L D p BIG BEN’S BBQ 600 Quartermaster Center, Jeffersonville IN, 284-4453. This family run BBQ joint is now at the Quartermaster Center, smoking up a storm and impressing locals who recommend Johnnie’s Smokin Ribs, Joecille’s Backbone (brisket tips), Big Ben’s shredded pork sandwich and Alvin’s Wild-Side shredded chicken sandwich. $$ L D f BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722. Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentucky-style mutton barbecue. $ L D f CARR'S BBQ AND MARKET 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 728-8106. This Floyds Knobs restaurant uses locally-sourced meats in its pulled pork, brisket, smoked turkey breast, chili and ribs. Choose sandwiches, plates with sides, or order by the pound. $$ L D f CITY BARBEQUE 329 Whittington Pkwy., 996-8003. This Ohio-based BBQ chain specializes in brisket, but doesn’t neglect pulled pork (served with slaw on top) and St. Louis ribs. It also smokes turkey breast, chicken and sausage. $$ L Dpf FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 4932812. This franchise chain operation maderby cityderbuyy be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ L D pf FDKY BBQ 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 785-4273. The logo shows that “FD” stands for Fire Department — after all, those guys know all about smokin’. Eat dinner in or order a couple of pounds of pulled pork, marinated pulled chicken, brisket or smoked sausage, firehouse chili or Res

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 53


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 54

Q stew and all the required side dishes to go. Ribs on Wednesdays and Friday calls for fried fish. $$ L D f FEAST BBQ 909 E. Market St., 749-9900, 10318 Taylorsville Rd., 749-6534. Owner Ryan Rogers brings a modernist sensibility to the art of barbecue to both NuLu and Jeffersontown. He has formulas for brining times and uses a high-tech smoker to keep the temps low and the smoke from overwhelming the meats. $ B L D pf FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. $ L D pf GALLEY AT GOODWOOD 636 E. Main St., 584-2739. Goodwood Brewing’s downtown production facility and comfortable taproom now offers a menu designed to pair with its liquid fare. Start with bowls of chili or burgoo, grab some wings or tacos, or one of the smoked meat sandwiches. $$ L D

routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked take-home turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ L D pf MARTIN'S BAR-B-QUE JOINT 3408 Indian Lake Dr., 242-4666. Pretty famous in Tennessee, but Louisvillians can now savor the meats smoked in the open pit (the whole hogs take 24 hours). All dishes, meats, sides and even sauces are made in-house daily. For a different kind of treat, try the smoked turkey sandwich. $$ L D pf MISSION BBQ 4607 Shelbyville Rd., 206-3331, 1213 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 269-3860. The National Anthem is played every day at noon at this Baltimorebased chain, which makes a point of supporting soldiers, firefighters, police officers and other first responders. Look for Texas-inspired brisket, smoked turkey, pulled chicken and pork, and even smoked salmon. There are also ribs, of course, sandwiches and scratch-made sides. $$ L D pf

The focus is on hot sandwiches and flatbreads with side dishes. In the evenings, the Flamingo Lounge presents a diverse music lineup in the bar downstairs. $$ L p BARRY’S CHEESESTEAKS & MORE 1161 S. Second St., 618-2288, 2500 Bardstown Rd., 384-2430. Barry’s version of the classic Philly street food has been getting raves from self-anointed cheesesteak mavens, who approve of his meat, bread and the cheese sauce choices. $LD BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ali Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ B L BRUEGGER’S BAGELS 119 Breckenridge Ln., 618-1158. The bagel/sandwich chain has set up shop in the middle of St. Matthews, offering another quick breakfast and lunch option. Choose from bagels and breakfast sandwiches, muffins, panini, salads and soups. $ B L f BUTCHER’S BEST 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully-staffed meat store in Prospect offers custom-cut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a wellstocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ L D f

GUY FIERI'S SMOKEHOUSE 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live!), 919-7299. The latest creation of the Food TV’s bad boy chef caused some serious musing about the meaning of “celebrity” chefs to local eating. But see the hoopla for yourself, and try some of the fried chicken brined in pickle juice, brisket with pomegranate, sorghum-glazed pork chops or Triple Crown grilled cheese sandwich. $$ L D pf

MOMMA’S MUSTARD PICKLES & BBQ 102 Bauer Ave., 938-6262, 119 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 290-7998. The St. Matthews spot garnered so many barbecue fans that a second outlet opened in the East End for the overflow. Knot on your bib for Kansas City-style smoked pork and beef ribs (a house specialty), brisket, chicken, pulled pork and all the standard sides. Their wings are a contender for best in all the city. Momma's “2% for Louisville” program steadily donates 2% of earnings to local charities. $$ D f

HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 Charlestown-New Albany Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 2844490. Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce. A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ L D

PORKLAND BBQ 2519 St. Cecilia St., 890-5988. Created by the non-profit group, Love City, Porkland BBQ’s proceeds benefit community programs for youth and aspiring entrepreneurs. Look for pulled pork and pulled chicken sandwiches, fried fish, rib tips, side items and desserts. A Portland specialty, smoked bologna sandwiches, too. $ L D

HOLY SMOKES BAR-B-QUE 7508 Preston Hwy., 9685657. The former Bootleg Bar-B-Q franchise on Preston Hwy. has become Holy Smokes Bar-B-Que. Owner Mark Weatherholt smokes his wings for three hours, his ribs and chicken for five, and his pork lingers overnight. He does brown sugar wings, too. $ L D

RIVER ROAD BBQ 3017 River Rd., 592-7065. Right next to the Water Tower, this little take-out-only place smokes brisket and pork: some days one sells out, on other days the other. Winter hours are 11-6 or until the meat runs out. Potato salad, slaw and drinks. Buy it by the sandwich or by the pound. $ L D

JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ L D f

RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find a bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ L D pf

FIREHOUSE SUBS 215 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-3473, 4905 Outer Loop, 749-4257. This national chain touts that they steam their meat and cheese sandwiches. Specialty subs carry out the Firehouse theme and the kids meals include a little fire helmet. $ L D

LOUIE’S HOT CHICKEN & BARBECUE 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 709-4274, 505 W. Broadway, 709-5275. The chicken here ranges through 4 levels of heat, the hottest using the notorious ghost pepper. BBQ choices include pulled pork and brisket and smoked wings. $ L Df

RUBBIN’ BUTTS BBQ 8007 Highway 311, Sellersburg IN, 748-7266. Up the road a ways you will find this “traditional” BBQ joint with some house specialties not so traditional: smoked deviled eggs, BBQ pork queso and their signature, the BBQ Pig-E-Chonga, a flour shell stuffed with baked beans, cheese, and pulled pork, then deep fried and smothered in queso and BBQ sauce. $ L D

FRANK'S MEAT & PRODUCE 3342 Preston Hwy., 3633989. Frank’s has been around a long time, treating those in the know to piled-high deli sandwiches for prices so reasonable it might seem you stepped into a time warp. There are steaks and chops and produce and other groceries, but it is best known for lunchtime service, where the long lines move fast, and the constant turnover ensures freshness of sandwiches and soups. $ L D

SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 10706 W Manslick Rd., 3633227. It’s a new location for this long-time Fairdale restaurant. In addition to standards like ribs, pulled pork and chicken, you can find smoked bologna, turkey ribs and pork rinds, plain or loaded with your choice of toppings. $ L D f

GALAN'S MEAT MARKET & DELI 2801 W. Market St., 614-8514. This old-school butcher shop also offers piled-high deli sandwiches and sides such as German potato salad or sour cream macaroni and cheese salad. Eat-in at the handful of small tables or take away. $$ B L D

SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 4917570. This Stony Brook-area eatery combines a sportsbar with a barbecue concept. Its large and varied menu includes wings and burgers, steaks and pork chops, and several takes on mac ‘n’ cheese, as well as righteous ribs. $$ L D p

HARVEY’S CHEESE 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), (512) 269-8127. Lots of cheeses to choose from over the counter. At lunch, grilled cheese sandwiches (as exotic as you want) and daily blackboard specials. Call ahead to reserve an artistically-arranged and tasty party tray of cheese, charcuterie and fruit. $$ L D f

M&M BBQ 1401 Bluegrass Ave., 996-0163. The Ekklesia Christian Life Ministries operates this BBQ joint that offers rib tips, meat loaf, an assortment of traditional sides, and keeps a limited schedule (Tuesday-Friday, 11:30-7). The food is popular enough that they sometimes sell out, so get there early. $$ L D f MACK BROS BBQ 2700 Rockford Ln., 384-4590. This family owned and operated restaurant serves ribs, rib tips, chicken and sides, including a fan favorite: cornbread salad. $$ L D MARK T'S SLAB HOUSE 4912 Preston Hwy., 409-7366. That would be slabs of ribs, of course. A wonderfully direct name for a barbecue restaurant. Several drumstyle smokers out front exude a savory cloud, attesting to the work being done inside those drums. $ L D MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 285-1998, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 442-0808. Mark’s

54 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

ATG SANDWICH EMPORIUM 119 S. Seventh St. 6537577. Against the Grain Brewery continues the decadeslong lunch tradition of Another Place sandwich shop.

CHICAGO STEAK & LEMONADE 9015 Galene Dr.,7421381. This local spot serves a variety of Philly cheese steaks, gyros, lemon-pepper fish dinners and wings. The lemonade comes in a passel of different flavor combos. $ LD CLOSE ENOUGH CAFÉ 250 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN (812) 913-4911. Here you can find interesting breakfast sandwiches, hot and cold lunch sandwiches and coffee, geared to grab-and-go lunch eaters. Mimosas and Bloody Marys at brunch. $$ B Br L f COLD SMOKE BAGELS 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 309-4269. Four kinds every day, with a schmear of your choice. Bagels, sandwiches and the weekend brunch highlights latkes. $ B Br L f EV'S DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 614-6300. A cozy downtown deli located in the Hilliard-Lyons building. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ L

HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-6001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany IN, 941-9426. Before holidays, you go in and carry out huge spiral-sliced hams or turkey breasts or beef roasts for your own parties. In the off season, you sit

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 55

down in the café and order generous, filling sandwiches made from those same meats, served on rolls or croissants, cold or with a hot cheese melt. Soup and salads too. And cookies. $ L D f JASON’S DELI 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 896-0150, 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101. Don’t look for a New York kosher-style deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ L D f JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 1983 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-1384, 3013 Poplar Level Rd., 263-7002. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that include cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ L D f JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP (11 Locations) This national sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ L D f LADY TRON’S 147 E. Market St., New Albany, IN 7259510. Owner Summer Seig has created an eclectic sci-fi theme for her soup and sandwich diner. Outside is Lady Tron, a smiling robot with red hair and a yellow apron; inside, you can find seasonal soups and sandwiches. $ B LD LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 454-7831. Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semi-fast food. $ L D f LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago style hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a fair price. $ L D f

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining

RED = Advertiser

LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. This family-owned pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta has been in operation for 37 years now. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand three-deep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfy café, to eat that deli sandwich, or get coffee and dessert. $ L D f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-7200. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ L MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5610027. $ B L MCALISTER’S DELI (11 Locations) Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ L D MELT 502 6318 Bardstown Rd., 594-8570. Here you will find egg rolls and sandwiches crafted from unusual combinations, all named after hip-hop or soul singers. The "Hot Boy" sandwich has grilled buffalo chicken, cream cheese and ranch sauce; the "M.I. Yayo" egg roll is stuffed with shrimp and cheese, and "Big Poppa” rolls contain jalapeños, bacon, and three cheeses. $$ L D MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 4581668. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, handmade deli fare. $ L PANERA BREAD CO. (10 Locations) Warm breads finishbaked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ BLDf

PARNELLI'S CHICAGO EATERY 3548 E. 10th St., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0025. If you crave Windy City classics like Vienna Beef hot dogs with neon relish or wet Italian beef sandwiches with giardiniera, head to the Jeff suburbs for Chicago specialites, incuding Greektown favorites like gyros and falafel. $ L D f PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5070, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ L D PAYNE STREET BAKEHOUSE 225 S. Spring St., 8958323. Nancy’s Bagel Grounds has remodeled the space that had been Willingers Beer Depot after moving from its longtime digs on Frankfort Ave. Despite the name change, you can still get bagels and cream cheese with your coffee or juices as well as a breakfast sandwich called The Willinger. $ B L PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ L D POTBELLY SANDWICH SHOP 302 S. Fourth St., 5401100, 4023 Summit Plaza Dr., 420-9616, 9018 Taylorsville Rd., 290-4820. This local outpost of the Chicago chain offers substantial sandwiches, salads and even breakfast sandwiches and oatmeal both to the downtown lunch crowd along Fourth St., and out at the Summit in the eastern suburbs. $ L D f QUIZNO’S SUBS 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7849. Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ L f

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 55


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 56

SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 425-8447. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ B L D f SEEDS AND GREENS NATURAL MARKET & DELI 207 W. First St., New Albany IN, 944-3800. Browse among the organic vegetables and health foods, and stop by the deli for soups and salads, hot and cold sandwiches, vegan, vegetarian and omnivore preparations. $ L D SOUPY’S 3027 Hunsinger Ln., 451-5325. Back in 1987, Danny Bowling’s mother-in-law, Bette, started making pots of soup in a corner of Bowling's Meats & Deli, a family courtesy that led in 1995 to Soupy’s. Now it’s about 2 million cups of soup later, by Soupy’s estimate, all using Bette’s recipes, cooked up in small batches daily. Salads, sandwiches (including veggie burgers) and sweets as well. $ L D

The concept here is “create your own sandwich” and draws on 50 toppings choices including sauerkraut, roasted red peppers, crispy onion strings, and hummus. The subs are the draw, but they also have wraps, gyros and now a variety of shakes. $$ B L D

BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ B L D BURGER GIRL 3334 Frankfort Ave., 709-5454. Dan Borsch, who owns Burger Boy Diner and Neon Pizza, has expanded into Crescent Hill. Burger Girl is a 24-hour burger grill, the sister to long-time somnambulists’ favorite Burger Boy. $$ B L D f

STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 584-3354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ L

CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The open-faced roast beef sandwich, with mashed potatoes and brussels sprouts, is a F&D favorite. $ L D pf

SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075. The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing menu. $ L D

COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 244-9497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ L

SWEET PEACHES 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 3560232. Breakfast, sandwiches and soups are what you will find at this West End spot. And don’t overlook fresh baked goodies like brownies and cookies or the chance to wash them down with peach-flavored sweet tea. This also is the location of the monthly Sweet Peaches Poetry Slam. $BLD THE BLOCK GOURMET DELI 14041 Shelbyville Rd., 785-4689. A husband and wife team with considerable experience in restaurants runs this Middletown deli. Fans report excellent thick sandwiches, fresh salads and homemade soups. Box lunches and catering also available. $$ L D THE SALAD CHIC 428 W. Market St., 650-4450. At this downtown lunch spot customers can build their own salads, salad and fruit kabobs or wraps, or choose from a prepared salad menu and changing daily soups. $$ L f THELMA’S DELI 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 5895200. Located in the glassed-in walkway (conservatory) between the two hotel towers, Thelma’s provides breakfast items, coffee, sandwiches and snacks 24/7 for Galt House guests and anyone else who needs, say, a pizza at 3 a.m. $$ B L D TORINO'S SANDWICH BAR 821 E. Market St., 7856800. Torino’s is one of two additions to NuLu Marketplace. An Italian-style deli, Torino’s offers Italian, roast beef and meatball subs, artichoke & eggplant panini, salads, deli counter items, and grab & go items. It is also a front for its sister business, Gertie’s Whiskey Bar. $$ L p VINAIGRETTE SALAD KITCHEN 203 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 205-9933. This Lexington-based modestly upscale salad restaurant offers locally sourced soups and salads and fresh lemonade. The menu includes the Bluegrass Blackberry salad; chicken taco and maki shrimp salads; and soups such as creamy tomato and sausage, kale and potato. Be sure to try one of three fresh lemonades on offer daily. $$ L D WHICH WICH? 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 290-3721, 221 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 708-2535, 13124 W. Hwy 42, 2280621, 3531 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 920-0637. 56 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ B Br L D LIL' WAGNERS 4520 Poplar Level Rd., (Derby City Gaming), 961-7600. A sit-down restaurant when you need a break from betting. Burgers and sandwiches (including fried bologna), starters like nachos, fried pickles and crab cakes, and soups and salads. Also a grab-and-go menu of wraps, sandwiches and desserts. $ LD LINDSAY'S KITCHEN 5300 Cane Run Rd., 384-4823. Good ol' southern hospitality and home-made food are the draws at this modest place in the far southwest of the city. The menu includes chicken-fried steak, meatloaf and liver and onions. $ B L D METRO DINER 4901 Outer Loop, 357-0767. The first local outlet of this Florida-based chain features "classic comfort food with flair.” Harking back to the glory days of diners, Metro Diner offers breakfast, lunch and dinner menus all day long. Signature dish is fried chicken and waffles, with burgers, seafood and salads also available. $$ B L D O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites, available from breakfast to dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $ B L D p WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800. A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round. Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ B L

COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Longtime neighborhood fixture Cottage Inn has a bright new look, and continues happily doling out the kind of excellent down-home food it has served since 1929. $ L D

ADA'S KITCHEN AND CATERING 214 W. Broadway, 561-3762. $ L

D. NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 618-2429. The nostalgia here is almost palpable. The interior has been upgraded, but changed as little as possible. The food offerings continue to be diner standards, like what was served when it first opened 50+ years ago. $ B L D

BOOK & BOURBON SOUTHERN KITCHEN 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). This library-themed concept at this upscale, airport dining venue offers more than 100 bourbons, along with a classic craft cocktail list. The food menu tweaks Southern comfort food with items such as fried green tomato Benedict and buttermilk fried chicken and waffles. $$ B L D p

DAVE & PEG’S COPPER KETTLE 276 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 256-4257. $ B L D EXECUTIVE BISTRO 1930 Bishop Ln. (Watterson Towers) 365-2848. This bright little spot provides grilled sandwiches, soups, salads and snacks to office workers in Watterson Towers. $ B L FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930. Steamtable service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ L D pf FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 742-2478. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ L D GASLIGHT DINER 10509 Watterson Trl., 694-2322. The owners of Mac’s Dough House did some research and decided that one more pizza place was more than J’town needed, so they have converted their space to a diner: all day breakfast, lunchtime specials and comfort food dinners to appeal to all ages. $$ B Br L D f GERALDINE’S KITCHEN 402 Wall St., Jeffersonville IN, 924-7707. Geraldine is the late mother of owner/chef Bob Hoyland; Geraldine’s Kitchen is a tribute to her sense of hospitality. Breakfast and lunch are served in an inviting, homey atmosphere. $ B L GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort

CASK SOUTHERN KITCHEN & BAR 9980 Linn Station Rd., 614-6499. The former SOU! Southern Kitchen & Bar has been reconceptualized as, as one customer called it, a “Bbq plus restaurant.” Gumbo, Brunswick stew, grit fritters and pulled pork nachos, dry rubbed oak-smoked ribs, smoked meatloaf sandwich (served hot or cold) and buttermilk Southern fried chicken sandwich are among the new items on the menu. $$$ D p DADDY VIC'S SOUL FOOD 4444 Cane Run Rd., 3653631, 426 Pearl St. (Elks Lodge), New Albany IN (812) 945-8111. The daily specials here cycle through the soulfood lexicon: smothered pork chops, Bar-B-Que ribs, fried catfish, chicken and dumplings, and on Sundays, baked chicken or pot roast. $$ L D p DASHA BARBOUR’S SOUTHERN BISTRO 2217 Steier Ln., 882-2081. Dasha’s certainly gives the “bistro” concept a down-home Southern twist. Serving familiar home-style fried chicken and fish, a vegetable plate with three sides choices, burgers, pork chop sandwich, and chicken wings. Sides include sweet potato casserole studded with pecans, fried corn on the cob and collard greens. $$ B L D p FLO'S HOUSE OF SOUL 3400 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 742-3065. You order at the window and eat on the patio, which has heaters for cooler weather and TVs for watching big games. Owner Jason Hatcher tries to do good for his community, offering food rewards to kids with good report cards. Choices include burgers, chili dogs, Philly cheesesteaks, whiting and catfish sandwiches, nachos and ice cream. $$ Br D pf

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 57

FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ L D FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 448-8044. Long-time fans of Jay’s Cafeteria (including politicians and national entertainers) are no longer bereft. Jay’s former owners serve up Southern Soul food in Shively at family-friendly prices. Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $ L D FRY DADDY’S 1991 Brownsboro Rd., 742-4596, 1270 S. Preston St., 384-4012. Here, you start with a plate of fries topped with Monterey Jack cheese. Then you can choose from 7 protein additions such as fried chicken, pulled pork, vegan chicken, snow crab and lobster. And then, you can choose from 12 sauces and other toppings before leave the building. $$ L D FUN FOOD KITCHEN & DELI 4106 Murphy Ln., 3292266. This East End strip mall soul food outlet has it all: jumbo chicken wings and tenders, pork ribs and rib tips, fish, sandwiches, home-cooked sides, peach cobbler and banana pudding. $ L D f LUCRETIA’S KITCHEN 1812 West Muhammad Ali Blvd. (Chef Space), 294-8143. It’s Wing Wednesday, Rib Tip Thursday, Fried Fish Friday and Soul Food Sunday at this ambitious little startup operating in the business incubator in the near West End. $$ Br L D MATTIE'S KITCHEN 1018 S. 15th St., (St. Stephens Family Life Center), 544-8954. Open Wednesdays and Fridays for lunch and dinner, and Sundays for afterchurch dining. The flexible menu can list fried or baked chicken, pork chops, mac n’ cheese, spaghetti and meatballs, and on Fridays, catfish is a special. $ Br L PO-Z'S KITCHEN 6801 Dixie Hwy., 883-0073. Pleasure Ridge Park residents in need of chicken wings, fried fish and side dishes like fried cabbage, mixed greens and sweet baked beans can find them here. Desserts too, like banana pudding and honey bun cake. $$ L D p SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. This Smoketown institution draws hungry locals as well as celebrities in town hungry for the soul food of their youth. BBQ ribs and hot-water cornbread cooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chicken wings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley Mae Beard’s spice rack — salt and pepper. $ L D SOUL FOOD DINING 4900 Poplar Level Rd., 915-8239. A cafeteria-style restaurant that offers all that a soul food fan would want: BBQ chicken, meatloaf, ribs, pork chops (with or without gravy), catfish, buffalo, and whiting, mac and cheese, mashed potatoes, greens, green beans, sweet potatoes and slaw. $$ L D SOUTHERN EXPRESS 418 W. Oak St., 963-1719. This well-known West End carryout spot has moved into a sitdown location in Old Louisville. There, classic soul food is served for eat-in or takeout and at rock-bottom prices. Diners build their own meal at $1 per item. Choices vary daily, but look for fried chicken, cooked cabbage, fried whiting, pork roast, fried or smothered pork chops, mac and cheese and rib tips. $ L D f SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY 3402 W. Broadway, 8221474. A family sports bar that satisfies all ages with its homey atmosphere and its well-crafted familiar food like double cheeseburgers, fried chicken with hot water cornbread, catfish, wings and ribs. $ L D p SUE'S TOUCH OF COUNTRY 2605 Rockford Ln., 4505059. Sue’s provides Shively with the kind of “stick to your ribs” food you go to a country/family style restaurant for. Daily Specials, homemade desserts and breakfast served all day. $ B L D THE BLACK JOCKEYS LOUNGE 630 S. Fourth St., 5870526. Most recently this downtown space was Encore on 4th. Now, in partnership with the Project to Protect African-American Turf History, Black Jockeys Lounge celebrates the history of Black jockeys. Waitstaff wear

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining

RED = Advertiser

jockey-inspired uniforms and the menu features items the jockeys may have ordered themselves: chicken and waffles, jerk chicken, prime rib, fried catfish and bread pudding. $$ Br L p THE KITCHEN TABLE 522 Happy Hollow Rd., Clermont, KY 347-2920. Jim Beam Distillery’s on-site restaurant serves high-quality traditional Kentucky dishes (burgoo, fried catfish, fried chicken) and interesting variations (dick poppers, hot smoked trout). Bourbon balls, of course, are among the dessert choices. $$$ L pf V-GRITS 1025 Barret Ave., 742-1714. Vegan food truck VGrits has settled down in the busy corner on the border of Germantown and the Highlands. Co-owner Kristina Addington defines her vegan menu as “southern comfort food, stick to your ribs, healthy junk food.” She has recently taken over False Idol Brewery, which shared the space, and rebranded it as Chimera Brewing Co. $$ L D pf VIBES RESTAURANT & ULTRA LOUNGE 1346 River Rd., 568-6691. This sleek, chic, eclectic music and food venue is in the former Relish building. Vibes serves bar bites such as burgers and sandwiches, appetizers, loaded hot dogs and entrees like wings, tenders, shrimp and fish at lunch, brunch and dinner. $$ Br L D p

CRAVINGS ALA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 584-6846. This thrifty deli offers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-and-salad bar and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes and a monthly ethnic creation. $ L GOLDEN CORRAL 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville IN. 9137577. Now cafeteria style family dining at one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ B L D

ABOUT TIME BAR AND GRILL 12406 La Grange Rd. At this suburban sports bar and grill you can find casual fare like fried cod, fish and steak tacos and Philly cheesesteaks. The bar serves an extensive cocktail menu, beer and wine. $ L D p f AVENUE BAR 2354 Frankfort Ave., 709-5176. The handsome renovations to this little house is a great addition to the bustling Frankfort Avenue corridor. With a neighborhood bar vibe, well-made cocktails and a fusion bar food menu featuring tacos from around the world, it’s well worth the visit. $$ L D pf B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd.(Oxmoor Center), 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Center. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ L D p BACKSIDE AT WHISKEY ROW 108 W. Washington St., 630-2012. Taking over the space near the Yum! Center that had briefly held The Hall on Washington, Backside’s menu leans toward American dishes: burgers, chicken sandwiches, honey-butter biscuits and salads. The restaurant is also adding bourbon flights to qualify for a listing on the Urban Bourbon Trail. $$ L D p BARRELHOUSE ON MARKET 1005 W. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-6373. Andrew and Michelle Collins renovated a down-to-the-heels dive bar into a spiffy, lively drinking establishment and music venue with a small, tasty menu: a slider assortment, buffalo and BBQ wings, pretzels and queso. $$ D pf BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 4099422. Lively music offerings and excellent barbecue have made this Lower Highlands bar and grill a satisfying place to dine. The BBQ comes as pulled chicken, pork and brisket in sandwiches or full dinners. $ D pf

BEEF O’BRADY’S 241 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 11324 Preston Hwy., 969-5559, 105 LaFollette Ct., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1316. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ L D f BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ L D pf BROWNIE’S THE SHED GRILLE & BAR 9900 Linn Station Rd., 326-9830, 826 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 920-0030. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Brown used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his two sports pubs, the area’s official homes for Cincinnati Bengals fans. $ L D pf BUBBA'S 33 4631 Medical Plaza Way, Clarksville IN, 2845933. The 12th location of the growing chain from the guys at Texas Roadhouse, Bubba’s is a family friendly sports bar with TVs galore and corn hole boards on the patio. The menu offers chicken with two types of bacon, chili-rubbed salmon, smoked chipotle wings, a spicy habanero burger and pizzas. $$ L D pf BUD’S TAVERN GOOD FOOD & BARBECUE 4014 Dixie Hwy., 384-9131, 9119 Galene Dr., 409-6066. This well-established Shively tavern has added a second location in Jeffersontown. It’s noted for excellent service and honest bar food that consistently receives high praise. Signature dishes — “gently fried” grouper, burgers (including a Reuben burger), as well as burritos and barbecue — are now available at both locations. $ L D pf BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area boasts 23 HDTVs including a 5- by 7-foot HD projector for 3D football viewing, a game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ L D pf DRAKE’S 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 614-7327, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr., 384-3921, 2651 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4096130. Lexington-based Bluegrass Hospitality Group has three local outlets that offer twenty-four craft beers on tap to wash down the traditional pub grub of tacos, ribs and — these days — sushi. Family-friendly by day and a hoppin’ spot at night, with music videos and a DJ. $$ L D pf DUNDEE TAVERN 2224 Dundee Rd., 458-6637. After a few flips and changes, Dundee Tavern has found its soul again as a neighborhood bar. A lot of beer choices on draft and in bottles, and a comfort food menu that includes wings and fingers, fried pickles, chili, burgers and sandwiches and Tavern Specialties like grilled flat iron steak and southern-fried cod. $$ L D pf FALLS CITY TAPROOM 901 E. Liberty St., 257-7147. This historic brand that was first brewed in 1905 has been revived (2010) and re-imagined as a modern craft beer. Now you can sip on their offerings at their new taproom and beer garden operating just east of downtown where Phoenix Hill and NuLu merge. Food is also offered tableside from the adjacent Bandido Taqueria Mexicana. $$ L D pf FIRST STRING BAR AND GRILL 5921 New Cut Rd., 366-0049. This South End sports bar offers pizza, baked spaghetti, fried bologna sandwiches and Cajun dry rub chicken wings. $$ L D p THE FLAMINGO LOUNGE 119 S. Seventh St., 653-7577. This speakeasy-style bar (in the basement space below ATG Sandwich Emporium) features a broad Bourbon selection, signature cocktails at a moderate price point,

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 57


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 58

and a diverse music lineup, anchored by artist-inresidence Ben Sollee every Thursday. $$ D p FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 585-3700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ L D pf GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616. A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ L D pf GERTIE'S WHISKEY BAR 821 E. Market St., 785-6800. Nashville chef (and Louisville native) Matt Bolus has opened a second location of his popular Gertie's Whiskey Bar, hidden away, speakeasy-style, behind Torino's Sandwich Bar; both businesses are part of Nashvillebased Red Pebble Hospitality. Bolus has hand-picked 11 single barrel selections to augment the 100+ bottles of whiskey in stock. $$$ D p f GOLD BAR 1601 Story Ave., 749-0002. Taking over the space vacated by Butchertown Social, Gold Bar focuses on sustainable practices: drinks will be served with biodegradable straws and menus will primarily be on LCD screen displays. The food menu offers bar fare: burgers, wings and fries, along with multiple vegan and vegetarian menu options and rotating specials. $ D pf GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 636-2748. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ L D p GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton Garden Inn), 637-2424. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ Br D pf HARBOR AND HOPS 3010 Gottbrath Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 748-2622. This expanding franchise operation offers local and regional craft beers, draught wines (served out of the barrel), hard ciders and kombucha. Let their cicerone lead you to beverage pairings with their familiar, hearty pub menu – lots of burgers, beer cheese soup, salads and sandwiches, and a limited entree selection. $$$ L D pf HARRY’S TAPHOUSE & KITCHEN 130 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN., 725-1111. The terrace and patio of this family-friendly riverside spot provide wide views of the Ohio, where you can chow down on well-crafted bar food – fried pickles or jalapeño cheese balls, harvest apple salad, a chicken wrap, Philly cheesesteak or grilled bologna sandwich, baby back ribs or smothered chicken over jasmine rice or a full 1/2 pound burger. $$ L D pf HELL OR HIGH WATER 112 W. Washington St., 5873057. The entrance is through Hello Curio, an ostensible arts and crafts gallery. Downstairs is the main bar in a two-story library with a mezzanine floor, looking out onto a small live entertainment area. Craft cocktails are bourbon-focused but not exclusively. There is a small bites menu, but drinks are the center of the “speakeasy” experience. $$ D p HIGHLANDS TAPROOM GRILL 1058 Bardstown Rd., 584-5222. Another nice choice for beer and bar food along the B’town Rd. corridor, but owner Tommy Clemons’ menu includes, but extends beyond, the usual beer cheese, chili and burgers. Look for the crabby patty or the French toast sausage. The pulled pork spring rolls are on their way to becoming legendary. $$ L D pf HILLCREST TAVERN 3212 Frankfort Ave., 290-6917. Dan Borsch, who runs several Old Louisville spots like Burger Boy Diner and Old Louisville Tavern, has expanded into Clifton with this renovation of a long-time 58 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

neighborhood watering hole. The menu mirrors that of Old Louisville Tavern, with burgers, sandwiches, appetizers and a few entrée items. A vintage 100-year old bar will anchor the nostalgic ambiance. $$ L D pf HILLTOP TAVERN 1800 Frankfort Ave., 742-2908. The Skelton brothers (John is an alum of Seviche) have settled in at this prime Clifton location. Their tavern fare is focused on barbecue, with pulled pork and beer-butt chicken specialties, along with hefty sandwiches (their meatloaf is a standout). $ D p HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 239-4724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ L D pf HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot that boasts 3 different steak sandwiches, along with pizza, burgers and chicken. $ L D pf INTERNATIONAL TAP HOUSE 637 E. Main St. The St. Louis-based chain has opened on the ground floor of the Main & Clay apartment building. Not a brewery, but a purveyor of hundreds of craft beers, ciders and a limited selection of wine. Patrons are invited to bring in food from neighboring businesses. $$ p f JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 4494940. $ B L D f KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern, a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978, offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and soups. The hamburgers, though, might be the best unpretentious burgers in town: freshly ground daily, always cooked perfectly, and served on a toasted bun. $ L D pf KHALIL’S 10966 Dixie Hwy., 632-2227. A family sports bar in Valley Station boasts plenty of TVs, including some tabletop TVs in booths. Menu presents the usual bar food suspects — salads, wings, burgers — but the burgers are on pretzel buns. $ L D p LEGENDS CAFÉ 2602 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, (812) 920-0786. This small, family-owned cafe, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, with $1 beer every day. Daily specials rotate monthly, and Fridays are a fish-only menu. $ B L D p LOUISVILLE INTERNATIONAL PUB 5343 Mitscher Ave. 384-3952. A neighborhood bar with an international focus. Eclectic bar food options cover the globe with dinner and sandwich options like nachos, chili, falafel, poppers, burgers, kabobs, and shawarma.$ LDp MG'S PRIME TIME CAFÉ 7017 Global Dr., 333-0719. If you find yourself hungry on the far Southwest side of town, this café can satisfy with appetizers like jalapeño poppers or fried pickles, burgers built your way, or an range of sandwich options. $ L D pf NEAT BOURBON BAR & BOTTLE SHOP 1139 Bardstown Rd., 690-3254. This Highlands vintage Bourbon bar takes advantage of the Kentucky vintage spirits law that allows bar owners to buy, sell and trade on the secondary market. The result is Neat’s focus on old and rare bottles that people have collected over the years and now want to sell or trade. $$ L D p NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere, has expanded their craft beer selection. The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily. Breakfast served until 2 p.m. $$ Br L D p

NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ L D pf OLD HICKORY INN 1038 Lydia St., 634-3011. John Murrow, long involved with Check’s Café, has re-opened this iconic Germantown bar, setting out to return the troubled property to its historic role as a quintessential neighborhood dive bar. $ L D p OLD LOUISVILLE TAVERN 1532 S. Fourth St., 4096281. It’s risen from the ashes, the interior gutted and redone, a new kitchen installed, but the menu is the same as before: top-flight bar grub made from scratch. An expanded beer program with 16 new taps includes a selection of local and craft beers. $$ L D pf O-LINE SPORTS GRILL 2813 N Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-6171. You can watch every game, every sport all year long, they claim. While you do, you can chow down a variety of bar food, such as the juicy Lucy cheese burger or nacho burger. The kids might like the mini-footballs, franks encased in pastry dough, fried and served with dipping sauces. $ L D p PEARL STREET TAPHOUSE 407 Pearl Street, Jeffersonville IN, 285-0890. Located in an historic home that was saved through a preservation grant, this pub has 24 taps with a heavy focus on local breweries, with regional and national choices as well. Food choices range from pizzas to bacon-wrapped dates to corned beef grilled cheese sandwiches. Everything is fresh and nothing is deep-fried. $ L D p f PINTS&UNION 114 E. Market St., New Albany IN., 9134647. Beer maven (and F&D contributor) Roger Baylor and partner Joe Phillips have renovated an old neighborhood bar, where the taps dispense familiar quality beers and ales, the bar crafts interesting cocktails and the bottled beer selection skews toward Belgian ales. The small kitchen offers pub-inspired small plates with an Indian accent. $ L D p PORCH KITCHEN & BAR 280 W. Jefferson St. (Marriott), 671-4246. As part of the recent renovation of the Marriott, this all-day restaurant replaces Champions Sports Grill. The name reflects the intention of the new restaurant to be a homey, welcoming downtown spot. Look for American-style comfort foods and a friendly bar. B Br L D pf RECBAR 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 509-3033, 336 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 670-5234. Family fun is the object here, with games galore: pool and ping-pong, skeeball, arcade games (for Nintendo, Sega Genesis, Super NES) and card and board games. A full bar and pub-style food, too. $$ L D pf RIVER CITY DRAFTHOUSE 1574-1/2 Bardstown Rd., 690-5111. Another beer joint along the Bardstown Road corridor boasts more than 20 taps focused on independent, American, craft beer (in sample, half-pint and pint sizes) and several bottled options. Its limited (for now) bar menu has garnered early praise for its wings. $$ L D f ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoal-grilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ L D pf SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ L D pf SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337. Despite minimal signage, Sergio’s Butchertown digs pull in his fans, who dig the quirky website, and the whole aura of haughty mystery. What you really need when you locate the place is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ D

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 59

SHOPBAR 950 Barret Ave., 709-4696. The former gas station has been converted into a small artisanal boutique and welcoming bar with a food truck — FoodShop at the rear. The menu rotates, but recently it included fried white fish, a pork jowl sandwich served on a pretzel bun, and mushroom tostadas. $ Br D pf TAVERN ON FOURTH 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 588-8888. This spacious sports bar adds to the festivities at Fourth Street Live. You will find plenty of games, filling upscale bar food and lots of drink choices at the bar. $$ D pf THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 451-0659. You need a bit of perseverance to track down this saloon on the back side of Mid-City Mall. When you do, you will find one of the city’s friendliest pubs, with a reputation for the best pour of drinks around. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ D pf THE EARL 109 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-2611. This bar offers craft cocktails and upscale bar food such as spicy pimento cheese with pretzel bread, cheese and charcuterie boards, and roasted cauliflower with bleu cheese. $$ D p THE FOX DEN 3814 Frankfort Ave. Returning to his roots in the restaurant biz, Jared Matthews has revamped the St. Matthews Diamond Billiards space into The Fox Den. Plenty of sports-oriented fun can be found here: Ample big screen TVs, 11 pool and billiard tables, darts and live music, plus a menu of elevated bar food. Open every night till 4am. $$ L D pf THE GOAT 700 Landis Ridge Dr., 791-8325. Ohio-based LC Lifestyle Communities operates this small chain of unusually named upscale-casual restaurants. Enjoy Italian pizza rolls, stuffed potatoes, salads, “doublegrind” burgers, wings, pizza, wraps and craft beer on the expansive deck or around the community pool, or join one of the competitive leagues in euchre, corn hole or volleyball. $$ L D pf

Audubon neighborhood bar has a new look and a kitchen that serves bar staples like burgers, fried pickles and cheese curds plus pizza from Danny Mac’s Pizza. (Dan McMahon, owner of Danny Mac’s Pizza, is a partner.) $ L D p f TIN ROOF 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1914. This Nashville-based chain in the heart of St. Matthews has a split personality: a family-friendly vibe during the lunch hours; and a rockin’ juke joint at night with live music until 3 a.m. Its menu encompasses everything you expect from bar grub: deep-fried hot dogs, hot wings, quesadillas and salads for the ladies. $ L D pf TOASTY'S TAVERN 1258 S. Shelby St., 614-7094. An addition to the Germantown bar scene, Toasty’s addresses the needs of late night hungry imbibers with cheeseburgers and breakfast sandwiches, loaded fries, and a vegan hot dog. Signature cocktails include watermelon mint margarita and flavored daiquiris. $ D pf TROLL PUB UNDER THE BRIDGE 150 W. Washington St., 618-4829. On the downslope alongside the Clark Memorial Bridge, a large troll beckons the adventurous into a space excavated out of the lost space in the old whiskey warehouse. The renovation boasts lots of dark, brick-walled spaces, as well as a funky outdoor dining area in the lightwell. The menu offers stacked sandwiches, bison burgers and sweet potato tots, and ribeye steaks. $$ L D pf UNION RESTAURANT & GAMEYARD 115 W. Chestnut St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-1285. Those wanting more fun as well as some food after strolling across the Big Four bridge can find both here, near the bridge’s Indiana-side off-ramp. Burgers, of course, and brisket, pork belly and brined chicken breast sandwiches. After eating, play iceless curling, four-way volleyball, cornhole or pingpong. $$ L D pf

THE LIBRARY 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 3136664. By day, the Library serves coffee, lattes and tea along with freshly baked pastries. By late afternoon, it morphs into a bourbon bar with locally inspired cocktails. $ B L p

WILD HOPS BOURBON BAR & LOUNGE 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 384-2001. The name speaks to the range of offerings at this bar inside the Logan Street Market. The on-site brewery crafts its own beer, and there is an extensive cocktail menu and a large selection of bourbons and other whiskeys. $$ B L D p f

THE PALM ROOM 1821 W. Jefferson St., 581-1251. The classic West End entertainment and dining spot is back, with a variety of special nights – Tuesday comedy, Thursday ladies’ night, Sunday brunch and jazz at night. The menu focuses on wings, salads and dinner specials. $$ D p

ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, the arcade is stocked with vintage games and topflight live music plays late into the night. The chow several days a week is created by Yeon Hee Chung, owner of the former Charim Korean restaurant. $ L D

THE PEARL 1151 Goss Ave., 996-7552. The Pearl aims to be a classic neighborhood pub (not unlike Pauly’s, which it replaces). It also aims to be a spirits-focused hangout, with a bar menu limited to snacks like pickled eggs, country ham and cheese sandwiches and free popcorn or roasted nuts. In the works is a permanent food truck to be parked in the rear to expand food offerings. $$ L D pf THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-1400. This Cordish-owned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ L D pf THE WATER COMPANY 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. There is a 3rd-floor rooftop pool at the new Omni Hotel, and this is the bar that goes with it, also offering seasonally-inspired light bites. $$ L D p f THIRSTY HOUND SPORTS BAR 7207 Fegenbush Ln., 919-7003. This Fern Creek hangout offer all that a sports fan could want: wings and ribs, nachos, potato skins, fried pickles, sandwiches, pork chops and steaks. $$ L D pf TIM TAM TAVERN 1022 Clarks Ln., 883-0101. Named for the 1958 Kentucky Derby winner, the Schnitzelburg/

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining

RED = Advertiser

pf

AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 5150174. Slugger Field once again has a beer-pub. The owners, veterans of the local brewing revival, have worked out an ambitious rotating beer selection and a smokehouse theme for the kitchen, with an emphasis on seasonal dishes. $$ L D pf APOCALYPSE BREW WORKS 1612 Mellwood Ave., 742-0090. Veteran home brewers Leah Dienes, Paul Grignon and Bill Krauth run this brewery in Butchertown, dedicated to fresh craft beer in a space that heats with solar, recycles and reuses materials and grains. Their taproom, dubbed The Fallout Shelter, serves up to 10 of their concoctions. $ f ATRIUM BREWING 1154 Logan St., 690-3069. The Shelby Park neighborhood is definitely on the upswing: it now has a local brewery. Atrium’s first efforts include a hazy IPA, coffee stouts in collaboration with Bean on Goss Ave. and fruit-infused tart ales. Brick & Mortar food truck provides a beer-focused menu. $ L D p f BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 300 W. Main St., 562-0007. BBC, one of the first, if not the first, craft breweries in town, continues to produce their beers and ales here, and to feed upscale bar food to hardy souls www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 59


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 60

who come downtown for entertainment. The Theater Square outlet at 600 S. 4th St. has been closed since the beginning of the pandemic. We are de-listing that outlet and look forward to reinstating that location in the future. $$ L D pf DONUM DEI BREWERY 3211 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 590-2478. Owner Rick Otey maintains that beer is a gift from god, hence the name of his craft brewery. The interior is starkly Scandinavian modern. A distilling permit has made it the area’s first “brewstillery.” $LDp FISTFUL OF ALE 2708 Paoli Pk., New Albany IN, 5570226. The bar attached to A Fistful of Tacos offers 20 or so taps of a wide variety of “strong-flavored” craft beers such as IPAs, stouts and porters, and unusual lagers. $$ D pf FLOYD COUNTY BREWING CO. 129 W. Main St., New Albany IN, (470) 588-2337. Walk in this new brewpub and you will find what looks like a medieval banquet hall, but scaled down to a Yorkshire public house. Brewer Jeff Coe’s repertoire includes Braun Jovi (Brown Ale), Hefe’ns Gate Hefeweizen and Vlad’s India Pale Ale, which complement perfectly menu items like fish and chips and oversized turkey legs. $ L D

Brewing Co. The Euro-pub inspired menu includes three kinds of double-fried fries, pork and currant pie, and several burgers. Frequently changing guest taps join the house brews of Mild George and King George (British brown ales), His Dark Materials (stout) and Hauck’s American pilsner. $$ L D pf NOBLE FUNK BREWERY 922 S. Second St., 755-2739. Louisville's newest brewery is in the massive former Old Louisville Krogers building. The 25-tap brewery also has a short wine and cocktail selection. The brewery’s sister concept, Noble Hearth Pizza, serves specials like "Date Night," topped with dates, bacon, spinach and spicy aioli, and "Pollo Diablo,” topped with house-made chicken sausage, jalapeños and spicy sauce. $$ D pf OUR LADY OF PERPETUAL HOPS 300 Foundation Ct., New Albany IN. This brewery offers 12 taps (currently 8 house and 4 guest taps), as well as plenty of space for playing games like cornhole, darts, Jenga; pool, and video golf. If you work up an appetite, food trucks will tend your hunger on Friday and Saturday nights. $$ D

GALLANT FOX BREWING 2132 Frankfort Ave., 8221988. Located in that odd Clifton intersection of Frankfort Ave., New Main St. and the railroad tracks, this brewery concocts things like blood orange blonde ale, Space Force IPA and mango-guava American pale ale. Ten guest taps feature regional brews. $$ D pf

PUBLIC HOUSE BY AGAINST THE GRAIN 1576 Bardstown Rd., 409-9866. After almost 20 years of fine craft brewing, Cumberland Brews founder Mark Allgeier has passed the taps over to the guys at Against the Grain, who have redubbed the popular Highlands space the Public House. All the taps serve ATG brews (to-go growlers are available). The menu features pub grub with a twist, including burgers, paninis, pimento cheese balls and French onion soup. Brunches promise to be destination weekend events. $$ Br L D pf

GORDON BIERSCH BREWERY RESTAURANT 400 S. Fourth St., 589-8935. The growing national brewery and restaurant chain has become an anchor at the corner location at 4th and Liberty, brewing their characteristic German-style bottom-fermented lagers, Hefeweizen, bocks, pilsners and Schwarzbiers. The large menu offers the usual pub-grub, but touted as fresh, seasonal and made on the premises. $$$ Br L D pf

RED YETI BREWING CO. 256 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. 288-5788. This craft brewery has an ambitious kitchen touting food so fresh in concept, they have no freezer. The brisket sandwich comes with house-made chips, the pork ribs are braised in wheat ale, and desserts include funnel cake with chocolate dipping fondue and a beer float: vanilla ice cream in your choice of porter or stout. $$ L D pf

GRAVELY BREWING CO. 514 Baxter Ave., 822-3202. Gravely offers 14 draft choices, all brewed and served on site. The brewery partners with Mayan Street Food, run by The Mayan Café. Walk up to the truck and order snacks like guacamole, fried plantains, Mexican corn, salbutes or tacos. Brunch on Sunday is provided by Commonwealth Cure with items like pork hash, Scotch eggs, or pork sliders. Plus, a full brunch drink selection. $ L D pf

SHIPPINGPORT BREWING CO. 1221 W. Main St. 6902002. Owner and brewer Amelia Pillow located her new brewery in Portland to encourage beer drinkers to venture beyond their west-of-9th-Street comfort zone. Her first brewing efforts include an American IPA, an oaked Helles Bock, a Belgian IPA and an Imperial / Double Coffee stout, among others. The food menu is geared to panini-style sandwiches and vegetable side dishes. $ L D p

GREAT FLOOD BREWING CO. 2120 Bardstown Rd, 208-0882, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 208-0882. The original Douglass Loop location is just a taproom, with no food service. The Middletown taproom occupies a former Wick’s Pizza complete with a kitchen that offers pizza and other pub fare made on site. $$ L D pf HI-WIRE BREWING 642 Baxter Ave., 717-4500. This Asheville-based brewery has opened its first out-of-state operation in the Lower Highlands. The bar has 21 taps of Hi-Wire beer, from a variety of IPAs to seasonal brews such as S’more porter to specialties such as honey lager and chocolate macaroon stout. Family-friendly activities on offer include soccer pool, table tennis, foosball, and shuffleboard. $ L D p f

TEN20 CRAFT BREWERY 1020 E. Washington St., 2906820, 11505 Park Rd., 384-8714. A second location, in Anchorage, to complement the first location in Butchertown, suggests that the craft beer boom continues. Ten20 brews a wide range of beverages, from a wheat beer to a sour to a hefty Russian Imperial stout, along with a hard seltzer and a black cherry cider. $$ L Dp f UPLAND BREWING CO. 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 750-1234. This Hoosier brewing operation has opened a southern outlet on the Ohio River, taking over the former Buckhead’s space, with its extensive pet-friendly patio overlooking the Louisville skyline. A full range of craft beer styles is on offer, along with a menu of hearty bar-food standards — pizza, sandwiches, burgers, wings, bison meatballs and mussels. $$ Br L D p f

HOMETOWN BREWING CO. 4041 Preston Hwy., 3634880. Tom Brown, partner in the Hometown Pizza chain, and high school friend Mark Allgeier, owner of the nowclosed Cumberland Brewery, have opened this craft brewery in the space where Brown has stored his car collection, which inspire the names of his beers. His goal is to make craft beer more accessible in small towns out in the state, where Hometown Pizza has 18 scattered locations. $$$ L D pf

WEST SIXTH NULU 817 E. Market St., 234-4733. West Sixth Brewing's newest taproom project includes a taproom, brewery, private event space & open air courtyard in the NuLu Marketplace on Market Street. $ L Dp f

MONNIK BEER CO. 1036 E. Burnett St., 742-6564, 415 Bank St., New Albany IN, 913-4259. This popular Germantown microbrewery has expanded across the river, taking over the space that once was New Albanian

BOCCE BOWL 125 W. Chestnut St, Jeffersonville, IN (812) 725-7778. Taking over the former hot dog

60 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

restaurant and working in conjunction with Union Restaurant and GameYard, this off-shoot serves healthy build-it-yourself bowls to eat as you play or watch games on two bocce ball courts. $$ L f DAVE & BUSTER'S 5000 Shelbyville Rd., (Mall St. Matthews), 963-0940. Fun galore with arcade, billiards, sports TVs, and a 16 page menu with surprising options for every special diet like flavorful lettuce wraps, the Impossible Burger and full entrees like steaks or salmon plus expected bar fare: nachos, sliders and wings. Desserts, beers and festive cocktails of impressive size, too. $$ L D p DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinnertheater sweepstakes. The expansive seasonal buffet offerings have fans returning show after show. $$$ L D p HOWL AT THE MOON 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 562-9400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub featuring a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? You’ll find this 4,000square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ D pf JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s wellmade, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$$ L D pf MAIN EVENT BAR & GRILL 12500 Sycamore Station Pl., 240-5555. This Dallas-based chain offers plenty of fun: bowling, laser tag, a high ropes course, billiards, video games — along with pizzas, sandwiches, full dinners and a full bar. $$ L D p MESA 216 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 725-7691. Mesa calls itself a “collaborative kitchen-classroom,” in which local established and aspiring chefs offer cooking demonstrations and food prep advice for a small audience, who will then eat what the chefs prepare before them. There is also a boutique selling high-end cookware and food products. $$ D p MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ L D p OVRDRIVE GAMES 112 W. Jefferson St., 653-5853. Plenty of ways to have fun here: virtual reality car racing, ax throwing, rage rooms (where you can destroy TVs and home appliances), and immersive VR games. The food and beverages aren’t virtual though: made-to-order pizza, wings and appetizers, and a self-pour tap wall featuring 15 beers and 6 pre-mixed cocktail choices. $$ L D p PIN + PROOF 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. The Omni’s bar has a cool angle. There are four bowling lanes, as well as hors d’oeuvres to enjoy in the “the opulent and mysterious atmosphere." $ D p THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275. The second floor theater continues to be a top local venue for all sorts of theater, improv and silly/hilarious roasts of toys (Barbie), computer game characters (Mario) and years (2017). Downstairs, the menu offers Shakespearethemed items such as Sir Francis BBQ Bacon Burger and The Steakspeare. $$ D pf

ABYSSINIA 554 S. Fifth St., 384-8347. This downtown Ethiopian restaurant has gained many fans with its variety of hearty stews, known as “wots,” and interesting vegetarian choices, with large portions and reasonable prices. $ L D

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 61

AFROKANZA LOUNGE 1578 Bardstown Rd., 379-5734. This Afro/Caribbean/soul food fusion restaurant and nightclub brings a new vibe to Bardstown Rd.’s restaurant row. Drinking and dancing till 4 am, with menu items like grilled red snapper and rice with peanut sauce to keep those late-night partiers fueled. $$ D p BARAKA RESTAURANT 519 W. Oak St., 822-3046. This all-halal restaurant serves African, Asian and Indian dishes. At the counter you pick a meat and choose an accompaniment of rice, bread or noodles. The fish curry with chapati and chicken saqaar with rice are good examples. Goat is often available for those who want to try something different. $ L D FUNMI’S AFRICAN RESTAURANT 3028 Bardstown Rd., 454-5009. Funmi’s offers a range of dishes from North and Central African cultures. Sample goat in a soup or a thick stew. Try soya, a West African shish kebab with a spicy peanut rub or moin-moin, a savory bean cake or lablabi, a Tunisian chickpea soup. $$ L D IMANKA RESTAURANT 737 S. Eighth St., (International Mall) 210-7503. Somali immigrant entrepreneur Mohamed Abbi Abdalla and his family serve their native cuisine at the International Mall. Suggested dishes include chicken suqaar (a chicken stew-like dish) or goat seasoned with onions and green peppers. $$ L D QUEEN OF SHEBA 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ L D SENEGAMBIA AFRICAN RESTAURANT Bardstown Rd., 491-3152. $$ L D

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining

4109

RED = Advertiser

WOLOGISI RESTAURANT 3707 Klondike Ln., 8830054. The space that was Alwatan is now a Liberian restaurant (goat soup; torborgee, a bean stew; palm butter with fufu) that also tempts American tastes with items like Philly cheesesteak and gyros, as well. $$ L D

AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style, consistent commitment from the kitchen makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant al fresco dining experience. $$$ L D pf

ZIBA’S BISTRO 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 797-0633. The rich cuisine of his native Burkina Faso in Central West Africa is Chef Bapion Ziba’s main inspiration, but he brings elements of European and American flavors too. Tiguedigue chicken, cooked with vegetables in a peanut sauce, will be a signature dish. $$ LD

CHEER KING STAR 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. Just what downtown needed — a Chinese buffet for quick lunches. Mostly the familiar, a mix of Cantonese, Szechuan and Hunan choices for those who need a little spice to fire them up to get back to work. $ L D CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ L D CHINA 1 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D CHINA BISTRO 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ L D

888 GREAT WALL 9464 Brownsboro Rd., 425-2811. Strip mall Chinese food is an accurate description of what to expect here. Locals from the neighborhood have said good things about the garlic chicken and their crab Rangoon. $ L D

CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ L D

A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582, 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D

CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 969-9222, 9246 Westport Rd., 425-1818. $ L D

ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888. Competent cookery and careful management ensures food offerings here stay fresh and hot. The name remains the same, but service is now cafeteria style, not self-serve buffet, a change done with customer health in mind. $ L D

CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ L D

ASIAN WOK 2235 Frankfort Ave., 822-3385. This panAsian spot offers a very large selection of Chinese & Japanese dishes in the stir-fried, hibachi-grilled and sushi categories. A lot of familiar things — Kung Pao chicken, pepper steak with onion, veggie fried rice, rainbow roll, hibachi steak, and so on. $$ L D

CHINA DRAGON 8507 Terry Rd., 995-9897. The far southwest corner of the city can get its Chinese table hot food fix here. $ L D

CHINA CHEF 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 384-5322. Pretty standard Chinese choices can be found at this new store in the South End. Eat in or carry out. $ L D CHINA COAST 4952 Manslick Rd., 363-4259. $ L D

CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ L D

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022

61


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:32 AM Page 62

CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ L D CHINA STAR 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 896-1818. $ L D CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 284-5580. $ L D CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628, 6445 Bardstown Rd., 231-0393. $ L D CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. Fans of this somewhat funky Chinese place post positive notices about the quality of its food. No strange Asian dishes here, just familiar Chinese hot table fare that Americans recognize. $ L D CHUNG KING PALACE 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. Every neighborhood seems to need a Chinese steam table outlet serving up Asian dishes familiar to Americans. Double Dragon does that job for its neighborhoods. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3135 S. Second St., 367-6668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 2675353.$LD DRAGON CAFÉ 13206 W. U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-1885. This Prospect-area Chinese restaurants offers many familiar dishes. East End fans say the service is quick and the food above-average tasty. $ L D DRAGON CITY 6413 Greenwood Rd., 935-6111. It used to be First Wok. It still is a strip mall Chinese-American place with a standard menu of crab Rangoon, fried rice, lo mein dishes, and a wide variety of stir-fries. $ L D EAST STAR BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $$ L D FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh Street Rd., 448-0588. $ L D GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $ L D GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3458 Taylor Blvd., 368-1833. $ L D GREAT WALL 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ L D GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fast-food Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of wordof-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargain-basement price. $ L D HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ L D HAPPY DRAGON 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8788. You guessed it: a good, go-to standard pan-China family-style restaurant in Jeffersontown that’s always there when you’re tired of cooking dinner for the clan. $ L D HIBACHI BUFFET 5372 Dixie Hwy., 449-8688. This far South Louisville Asian buffet gets strong positives from locals who appreciate its cleanliness, its range of choices (including hibachi grilled meats to order and sushi) and a buffet bar that is kept freshly loaded. $ L D p HIBACHI SUSHI BUFFET 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788. Capitalizing on two seemingly persistent trends in American dining, this hot table place offers standard Chinese buffet dishes, and standard sushi choices. Cashew chicken, shrimp with garlic sauce, Dancing Dragon roll, spring and summer maki — it is all here. $$ LD HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 367-8828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check out the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ L D JADE PALACE 1109 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace offers familiar Chinese food choices, as well as a long list of 62 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

Chef’s Specials, with names in Chinese characters as well as English (a sure sign you are in for authentic Chinese fare). Dim sum is offered daily, but on weekends it is served from a traditional rolling cart. $$ Br L D p JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. Like many Chinese restaurants, Jasmine is in a strip mall, but this is not just another hot table stir fry joint. There is an American menu, but those in the know will ask for the 14-page Szechuan menu, featuring such interesting things as pig ear in sesame oil, hot and spicy intestines, spicy diced rabbit foot, frog legs, beef maw and tendon Szechuan style — one of the most popular choices, the manager said. $ L D p JASMINE ASIAN BISTRO 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 618-3000. The owners of Jasmine Essential Chinese on English Villa Dr. have gone more upscale with this bistro-style location. Expect the same authentic Chengdu-style Sichuan cuisine (be adventurous!) and well-executed Americanized dishes, sushi and other offerings. $$ L D p JOY LUCK 1285 Bardstown Rd., 238-3070, 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 618-1601. This fine Asian restaurant across from Mid-City Mall has opened a suburhan site too. Both serve familiar Chinese dishes very well done, as well as authentic Taiwanese offerings. Duck dishes are cooked in three different styles — Cantonese, Taiwanese and Beijing. $$ L D pf JUJUBE AT LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que, the pan-Asian eatery on the conjunction of Bardstown and Baxter, has been sold, and now JujuBe at La Que has a rather standard Chinese take-out menu with a few of the original Thai/Vietnamese dishes rounding out the menu. $$ L D f JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 742-8550. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ L D LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ L D LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ L D ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and wooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $ L Df ORIENTAL CAFÉ 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ L D ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017. New owners continue the tradition at this long-standing St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional ChineseAmerican and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ L D p ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ L D PANDA EXPRESS 1075 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN 288-0774, 1232 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-8430, 13311 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3980, 10600 Westport Rd., 425-1678. The Pentagon even has one of the 1500+ outlets of the nation’s largest Chinese fast food chains, and now we have four. Moderately priced chow such as orange chicken, Beijing beef, SweetFire chicken breast and honey walnut shrimp fill the menu. $ L D

PEKING CITY EXPRESS 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 891-0388. A lot of familiar items on the menu here, but those in the know ask for a Chinese menu, and order the dumplings or the xiao long bao (steam bun with meat filling). Dishes are handsomely presented, and servings are large. $$ L D RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 3437 Breckinridge Ln., 499-7788. $ L D RICE BOX 6810 Southside Dr., 380-2209. This typical Chinese hot table provides South End residents with the kind of Chinese food you would expect at budget prices. $LD SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 426-6767. Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ L D TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sit-down Chinese restaurant has a large and eclectic menu, with lots of spicy dishes and daily double shot specials at the inviting bar. Now offering delivery to Norton Commons and adjacent suburbia. $$ L D p YANG KEE NOODLE 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 245-9264. This locally owned and operated colorful and stylish fastcasual restaurant offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ L D f YEN CHING 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ L D YOKI BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-2277. A Chinese food-oriented buffet, with sushi as well, offers more options near the Jeffersontown Industrial Park along the Blankenbaker Rd. corridor. $$ L D

AJI SUSHI AND ASIAN CUISINE 5610 Outer Loop, 6181781. Okolona area residents can now get their sushi fix. The extensive menu offerings include egg rolls, salads and soups, noodle, rice and curry dishes, and tempura, as well as a large variety of raw and cooked sushi preparations. $ L D p ARATA SUSHI 9207 U.S. 42, 409-4880. Arata is a dedicated sushi place, with only a few items that fall outside of the maki, nigri and sashimi offerings. The elegant modern interior, and the commitment to the freshest ingredients have been drawing in fans from beyond the East End. $$ L D p ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130. This small room in St. Matthews houses a neighborhood sushi spot that also serves grilled dishes and tempura. $ L D ASIANA SUSHI 6435 Bardstown Rd., 614-7244. This ambitious Asian restaurant in Fern Creek offers an extensive sushi selection, hibachi meals, various noodle choices and even a few Korean dishes such as bulgoki and bi bim bap. $$ L D p BENTO ASIAN KITCHEN + SUSHI 12951 Shelbyville Rd., 822-1202. Order from an assortment of teriyaki or fried bento boxes, rice or noodle bowls, poke bowls or sushi and sashimi at this ambitious Middletown newcomer. $$ L D p f DAISUKI SUSHI 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 434-2395. This sushi stop has joined the eclectic graband-go choices in Logan Street Market’s restaurant row. $LDp DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 632-2444, 129 W. Market St., New Albany IN, 7258600. Owner Toki Masubuchi’s eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists: pizza topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $ L D pf

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:33 AM Page 63

FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$LDp FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978. Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ L Dpf GINZA ASIAN BISTRO 9420 Shelbyville Rd., 749-8878. A one-stop Asian restaurant. Choose to eat from the Chinese, Japanese or Thai kitchen, or sidle up to the sushi bar for all manner of vegetarian or fish-focused rolls, or sushi combos that include miso soup and salad. A la carte sushi entrées too. $$ L D p HEART & SOY 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. To the left is Roots, a sit-down restaurant. To the right is Heart & Soy, serving vegetarian “street food,” and entertaining passers-by with a glass-walled tofu-making room. Stateof-the-art equipment from Taiwan transforms organic soy beans from Ohio into soy milk and then coagulates and presses it into tofu as you watch. $ L D HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651. Japanese-trained chef Norihiko Nakanashi brings his skills to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ L D p JUNO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 5406 Antle Dr., 4097094, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 632-2777. A wideranging menu of Japanese options make these two restaurants interesting destinations. Diners have plenty of sushi options, as well as hibachi dinners, yakisoba, udon and ramen noodle dishes, tonkatsu and tempura. $$ L D p KABUKI 2784 Meijer Rd., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 5903430. A full range of Japanese dishes can be found here: sashimi and sushi, hibachi grilled meats and seafood, ramen, bento boxes and seaweed salad. $$ L D p

fast-casual Asian fusion twist here in the space that had been Chop Chop Salads. Choose your combination of protein and vegetables and toppings such as ginger, jalapeno and seaweed salad. Also fried rice, bibimbab and noodle-bab, made with sweet potato noodles.$$ L RAMEN HOUSE 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 709-4374. Next to the Baxter Avenue Cinemas, Jonathan Ham, who formerly owned the popular Ramen Inochi, expanded his culinary range with a menu that includes traditional ramen, rice bowls, steamed buns and handmade gyoza. $$ D ROOTS 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6688. Veteran restaurateur Coco Tran looks to seduce the vegan/ vegetarian world of the Highlands with this crisp, elegant room. Eat at tables in the front, enjoy smoothies and tea at the bar, or snuggle down in a Japanese pit table in the back. Choose from an international selection of small plates. $ L D SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “full-service” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ L D p SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600. Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ L D SAMURAI 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036. Middletown gets some artistic sushi, as well as hibachi-grilled steak and seafood. Teppan-style (food cooked on an iron griddle) lunch and dinner entrees are a specialty. $$ L D p SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550. The remodeled Highlands location has an expanded kitchen, new sushi bar and new fixtures, giving trendy, glitzy Sapporo new bona

fides as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. $$$ L D p SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ L D p STAR SUSHI 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 725-8444. Jeffersonville joins the sushi craze with its own source of yellowtail rolls, sashimi and nigiri, which is drawing fans for the freshness and flavor of its offerings, and its very fair price point. $$ L D SUSHI MASTER 9415 Norton Commons Blvd., 890-5157. This traditional Japanese restaurant offers sashimi, classic sushi rolls, noodle dishes such as udon and cold soba and entrees such as teriyaki chicken, and grilled fish. A few Korean dishes such as bulgogi are on offer too. $$ L D pf TOGO SUSHI 700 Lyndon Ln., 883-0666. ToGo offers primarily drive-thru sushi-to-go, but it does have a fiveseat bar and three two-top tables inside. Owner Chet Gurun also owns Samurai Sushi & Hibachi in Middletown and is also part owner of Oishii Sushi near Bowman Field. If sushi isn’t your thing, there are items like fried oysters, fried calamari and shrimp tempura, as well as some vegetarian options. $$ L D TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from high-quality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ L D TOMO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 4317 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-0200. This Japanese hibachi steak house offers a good show of knife skills and

KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-9538, 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-1870. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ L D p L & J ASIAN CUISINE 6017 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8399. A slight change of focus at this East End Asian fusion spot adds Hawaiian BBQ dishes and a wide selection of ramen preparations to the eclectic menu. $$ L D f MASA JAPANESE 12336 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5040. Middletown, too, joins in the sushi expansion. Open for lunch and dinner, the standard menu is bolstered by daily chef’s specials. Lunch specials include the Japadawg, a hot dog with Japanese toppings, a range of teriyaki choices and ramen noodles, Japanese style. $$ L D f MISAWA HIBACHI & SUSHI BAR 7931 Bardstown Rd., 290-1780 The hibachi grills here are not for show, just for grilling, which keeps prices lower than other Japanese steak houses. Rodeleo See, a sushi chef with almost two decades of experience runs the sushi bar. $$ L D p MT. FUJI 309 W. Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. The quickeating strip on the north side of U of L’s campus needed a Japanese place to satisfy students’ sushi cravings. The menu also has tempura and Japanese noodles. $ L D p OISHII SUSHI 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 365-3474. This small, attractive and popular sushi spot serves all the popular maki and nigri near Bowman Field. $$ L D OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing Clifton favorite also has a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ L D POKEHANA 436 W. Market St., 996-7994. Poke, an increasingly popular Hawaiian raw fish salad, is given a

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining

RED = Advertiser

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 63


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:33 AM Page 64

tableside grilling, as well as sushi. Patrons seem to admire the oversize sushi rolls, the salads with ginger dressing, and the grilled chicken and scallops. $$ L D p

According to owner Kathy Aphaivongs, the dishes are “straightforward Thai, no BS, no Americanism,” which means no heat scale for dishes. $$ L

TSUBAKI SUSHI & BAR 13823 English Villa Dr., 2448896. A new addition to Jasmine, many people’s favorite Chinese restaurant in town. Look for both raw and cooked two-piece nigiri and three-piece Sashimi, a variety of vegetable rolls and deep fried rolls, and special rolls almost beyond counting. $$ L D p

MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ L D

WILD GINGER SUSHI & FUSION 1700 Bardstown Rd., 384-9252. This Highlands sushi and Asian fusion spot has a sushi bar up front, and a pan-Asian menu in the back dining room. Entrees include standard Japanese entrées such as teriyuaki chicken, Japanese curry, and soba and udon noodle dishes. $$ L D p

SALA THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992. This entry on the growing list of Thai restaurants is gaining fans, partly because it is vegetarian- and vegan-friendly. $$ L D

YAMATO JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany IN, 590-1380. A lot of Japanese food preparations are on the menu at this southern Indiana restaurant, located between State Street and Green Vallley Road. Offerings include: ramen bowls and bento boxes, yaki soba and sushi rolls, and steak, chicken or seafood hibachi grilled dishes. $$ L D

FRESH OUT THE BOX 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 303-3322. This food truck serving Asian fusion street food now has a stand in the Logan Street Market too, serving well-crafted tacos, rice and noodle bowls and Korean dishes. $$ L D GOGI 1055 KOREAN BBQ 1055 Bardstown Rd., 7474644. The old neighborhood theater that recently housed Buffalo Wild Wings has become home to a grill-yourown-bulgogi table-side Korean restaurant. The interior has been gutted and redone, and gas grills at the tables will allow for tableside grilling of meat to one’s own preference. $$$$ D p KIM & BAB 3012 Charlestown Crossing Way, New Albany IN, 725-9844. This little Korean restaurant is getting rave notices from locals who love the mandu (dumplings), japchae (a noodle dish), galbi (short ribs) and dakkangjung (fried marinated boneless chicken in a spicy sweet and sour sauce). More familiar things like bulgogi and fried rice too. $$ L D KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ L D p f LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 4569714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ L D RICE BOWL 3114 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 5906786. Rice Bowl is another addition to the restaurant row area near the IUS campus. It serves Korean and Asian dishes. You will find clay pot bibimbap, chicken curry rice, several varieties of ramen. $$ L D SARANG 1908 Eastern Pkwy., 709-4282. The store on the Eastern Parkway side of the Schuster Building most recently was a Ce Fiori yogurt shop, but it now serves Korean food such as bibimbap, mandoo, ramen and dakkangjung. Bubble tea is back, too. $ L D

ALL THAI’D UP 211 S. Fifth St., 653-7437. The popular food truck has found a permanent space downtown, replacing a former Carali’s Rotisserie Chicken. The menu includes curries, papaya salad and veggie stir fry, plus classic Thai dishes like pad see ew and pad thai.

64 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670, 12003 Shelbyville Rd, 690-8344. Owner Mahn Saing and his wife, a classically trained Thai chef, are pleasing diners in St. Matthews and Middletown. Their menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items use many ingredients from their small home garden. $$ L D f TANTHAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ L D THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ L D f THAI NOODLES 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The menu covers Thai standards like pad Thai and curries, with some interesting variations, including several duck items, such as Bangkok duck and pineapple curry duck. Noodle dishes range from flat and thin egg noodle to bean thread and rice noodle. $ L D TIME 4 THAI 2206 Frankfort Ave., 996-7899. The elegantly redone interior is matched by some unusually elegant Thai dishes, such as the volcano Cornish hen, a whole bird, marinated with Thai herbs and spicy chili sauce, which is flambéed at the table. All dishes are cooked to order, so choose your spice level. $$ L D p

ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn Ave., 363-4847. Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ L D CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959. A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the banh mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ L D CHIK'N & MI 1765 Mellwood Ave., 890-5731. A brief try at maintaining two locations has resulted in consolidation at the former Bistro 1860 location, which is serving the original Asian-inspired comfort foods — Laotian spiced fried chicken, hearty ramen noodle soups and an extensive selection of sake, craft beer and cocktails. $$ Br D p DISTRICT 6 3930 Shelbyville Rd., 873-5561. Named after the veteran restaurant owners’, the Thai family’s, native district in Saigon, District 6 features traditional Vietnamese cuisine based on their mother Nga’s recipes, updated with modern influences. Look for items like the bone-in short rib pho, spicy fried hot wings, beef lettuce wraps, red curry chicken and Vietnamese spicy street corn, as well as noodle bowls — and whole crispy fried fish. $$ L D p

EATZ VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT 974 Barret Ave., 785-4550. Another newcomer to the string of shotgun houses along Barret that provide a lead-in to the Paris Pointe development. Pho and Bahn mi sandwiches, of course, but also other noodle dishes, a bento box and crispy tofu in chili sauce. $$ L D pf LEMONGRASS RESTAURANT 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 244-7110, 2956 Richland Ave., 614-7448. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ L D NAMNAM CAFÉ 318 Wallace Ave., 891-8859. This small St. Matthews Vietnamese restaurant has gained many enthusiastic fans who flock there for the pho, the banh mi and other authentic Vietnamese dishes. $ L D f PHO BA LUU 1019 E. Main St., 384-6822. This Butchertown restaurant focuses on Vietnamese street food such as pho, the classic noodle soup, and banh mi sandwiches. The very cool repurposed space was once a welding shop; its large open spaces and high ceilings make for an elegant place to sip sweet iced coffee or munch on an Imperial roll or tuck into a rice or noodle bowl. Fast casual service at lunch; after happy hour the full bar and large patio have full service. $$ L D pf PHO CAFÉ 1704 Barstown Rd., 916-2129. Local restaurant veteran Tuan Phan, who worked at Asiatique for 18 years along with a stint at Dish on Market, is serving Vietnamese-style home cooking. There is pho, of course, the signature noodle soup, as well as other noodle and rice dishes, banh mi sandwiches and a small selection of stir-fries. $$ L D PHO PHI 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 290-3019. A Vietnamese restaurant joins the choices in Shelbyville Road Plaza, setting up shop in the former Home Run Burgers site. Phos, of course, and Bahn mis, and rich Vietnamese coffee. $$ L D VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154. This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ L D

BOUDREAUX’S CAJUN COOKING 11816 Shelbyville Rd. Inside the tiny Boudreaux's New Orleans Style SnoBalls shack in Middletown, you can now find take-out only New Orleans style spicy gumbo (lunch only). Eat on the patio, or take home to reheat for supper. $ L f J. GUMBO’S 8603 Citadel Way, 493-4720, 1616 Grinstead Dr., 873-5006, 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046. Former jockey Billy Fox has come full circle with his chain of popular quick-service Cajun restaurants — his most recent outlet is in the little house near Bardstown Rd., where it all began. Among the hearty, affordable dishes that have made J. Gumbo’s a go-to spot is the drunken chicken, still a favorite. $ B L D f NORTH OF BOURBON 935 Goss Ave., 749-3305. The short-lived Mr. Lee’s bar in Germantown is now North of Bourbon, which celebrates the alcoholic connections between NOLA and Louisville. The redesigned interior evokes Southern hospitality, as does the lunch and dinner menu, with po'boys, red beans and rice and seafood filé gumbo, among other NOLA-inspired dishes. $$$ L D pf SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. This Cajun/Creole place in a renovated Anchorage roadhouse continues to find fans. Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ Br L D pf TAYLOR'S CAJUN MEAT CO. 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 725-0039. A few blocks down Grant Line Rd.

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:33 AM Page 65

from I-265, Taylor’s is a spic-and-span shop run by a family from Lafayette, LA. Daily plate lunches often sell out quickly. A great variety of fresh and frozen savory Cajun specialties (sausages, stuffed everything) are always available, as well as crawfish and shrimp pies, gumbo and étouffée, and special orders. This place is the real deal. $ L THE BAYOU 434 W. Market St., 709-5255. This CajunCreole restaurant features classic Bayou recipes like jambalaya, red beans and rice, gumbo, seafood platters and crab boils as well as club sandwiches, frog legs, crab cakes and a Sunday buffet. Soul-food desserts include fried cherry, apple and sweet potato pies with caramel drizzle and a turtle sundae. $$$ L D f

CARIBBEAN CAFÉ 317 W. Woodlawn Ave., 434-7711. The diverse Woodlawn neighborhood welcomes the area’s first Haitian restaurant. The boldly-painted exterior is decorated with cool Haitian folk art; the menu offers generous portions of jerk chicken, fried red snapper, goat, and hearty sides of rice, beans and plantains. $ L D CUBAN RESTAURANT AND BAKERY 5614 Preston Hwy., 919-7074. Among the range of Latin restaurants along Preston Hwy, this unassuming place has garnered many fans, for the satisfying Cuban food in the café, as well as for its baked goods. $ B L D EDEN & KISSI 3912 Bardstown Rd., 384-9102. Another addition to the growing ethnic food choices in Buechel, this Afro-Caribbean restaurant serves several kinds of jerk chicken, chicken curry, and peri-peri wings. Daily specials include Ivory Coast style jollof rice, and a shrimp burger. $$ L D GALAN’S MEAT MARKET & GRILLE 2300 W. Market St., 618-3191. Carlos Galan, who has made a mark with

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining

RED = Advertiser

his butcher shop in Portland, has opened another enterprise, in a former bank. His family-oriented restaurant, which has a Cuban/Puerto Rican/Caribbean menu focus, also has a meat market on site. Order breakfast, lunch or dinner inside, or from the drivethrough. $ B L D f HABANA BLUES TAPAS RESTAURANT 320 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 944-9760. Owner Leo Lopez has rebooted his restaurant concept in a former bank (the safe is still there, behind the bar) and installed in the front of the restaurant is a recreation of the raft he built to emigrate from Castro’s Cuba when he was 18. Cubanstyle tapas on the menu, also a half-dozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a few dinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arroz con pollo. Live music most nights — tango, flamenco and salsa. $$ L D pf HAVANA BAKERY CAFÉ 5510 Fern Valley Rd., 5093410. This Cuban spot offers sweets and savories: tres leches cake, coquitos (coconut-caramel rolls) and flan; sandwiches or meat and fish combos (ropa vieja, albondigas, pechuga de pollo). $$ L D HAVANA RUMBA 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana can be found at this consistently busy Cuban restaurant. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $$ L D pf HAVANA RUMBA & TAPAS BAR 2210 Bardstown Rd., 749-4600. The Havana Rumba family brings Cuban food to the Douglass Loop, and adds a large selection of Spanish tapas as well. Fans have also spoken reverently of the mojitos and other cocktails in the stylish bar. $ L D pf LA BODEGUITA DE MIMA 725 E. Market St., 690-5016. Adjacent to the AC Hotel in NuLu, this Cuban restaurant is the latest restaurant concept from Fernando Martinez

and his Olé Restaurant group. Cigar lounge, rum bar, 1950s Havana décor and a menu of classics from family recipes, like Cuban tamal con Puerco, pan con bistec and some delectable desserts. $$ D pf MI SUEÑO 3425 Bardstown Rd., 709-4526. This honest little bodega and hot table restaurant serving Latin groceries and a variety of Cuban-centric Latin dishes was, as the name translates, the owner’s dream. $ B L D MOJITO IN HAVANA 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1959. Long-time Louisville favorite Havana Rumba has resurfaced with a new identity in the location previously occupied by Waylon’s Food & Firewater. The roomier location of this Cuban favorite offers diners a two-tier menu that brings together the best selections from both Mojitos Tapas Restaurant and Havana Rumba. Look for some new offerings, as well, including shrimp croquettes and a selection of flatbreads. $$ B Br L D pf OPEN CARIBBEAN KITCHEN 4735 Poplar Lever Rd., 601-1332. Chef Space, the West End kitchen incubator, has fostered another interesting eatery. This one highlights the cuisines of Haiti, the Dominican Republic, and Trinidad. Offerings include alluring options like sautéed conch ceviche, Rasta pasta, and island-style jerk chicken. $$ L D ROOF TOP GRILL 414 W. Oak St., 618-2287. This Jamaican restaurant serves the native cuisine of owner Courtney Johnson. Look for jerk chicken, curry with chicken, turkey, goat and rib tips, along with Kentucky favorites like fried catfish, barbecue and beef patties. $ L D

BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building to present elegant

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 65


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:33 AM Page 66

modern French cuisine. Owner Anthony Dike’s refocus of the restaurant around a bistro menu continues its popularity. $$$$ D pf BRASSERIE PROVENCE 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 883-3153. This Provençal-style brasserie serves classical and Southern French specialties, the comfort food enjoyed by owner Guy Genoud in his childhood home of Cannes, France. Dine like the French do on fish and seafood, a variety of meat and fowl, a daily "plat du jour", French cheese and charcuterie, specialty cocktails, draft beer and a large selection of French wine. $$$ L D pf

COMMON HAUS 134 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. A “sister restaurant” to Pints & Union, this Bavarian-style hall has a selection of German beers, German-style comfort food, three floors of outdoor seating, including two decks and a new patio on the ground floor. A long communal table runs down the center of the ground floor dining room, and the upper floors have a clear view of the river. $$$ D p f GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North Rhine-Westphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$ D f

IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloon is as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. Serving classic Irish fare. $ Br L D pf MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222. Molly Malone’s, as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green, has anchored the dining scene in the Lower Highlands for many years. You’ll find fish and chips, corned beef and cabbage, bangers and mash and shepherd’s pie, along with Irish interpretations of American bar food like wings and pretzels and beer cheese.$$ L D pf MORE SHENANIGAN’S 4521 Bardstown Rd., 493-3585. $ L D pf O'CONNELL'S IRISH PUB 5520 Fern Valley Rd., 9640040. If you are in the mood for an Irish Car Bomb, this is the place. Guinness, too, karaoke nights and a satisfying selection of bar food. $ L D p O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. The O’Shea family has been operating an Irish pub since the early 1900s. Today they have one of the most popular pubs on the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor. Diners of all ages like its burgers, flat breads, sandwiches and fish and chips. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ L D pf PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This downtown Irish bar was one of the first to open in the Whiskey Row complex. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. $$ L D pf SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ L D pf THE RAVEN 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. The St. Matthews outpost of Molly Malone’s has been remodeled and rebranded to offer “an authentic, Irish cultural experience.” Gaelic legends and myths inspire the decor, and rugby, hurling and football (by which they mean

66 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

soccer) are the sports that fans come watch while chowing down on shepherd’s pie and fish and chips. The extensive menu offers American food as well as Irish dishes. $$$ L D p f

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ L D ANGIO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 451-5454. This small eatery moved from its Buechel location to the East End, still attracting a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $$ L D p BAR VETTI 727 E. Market St., 883-3331. The crew behind Feast BBQ and Royals Hot Chicken scored another win when bar Vetti, an upscale casual Italian eatery, opened in the 800 Building. Now moved to a larger space in the AC Hotel in NuLu, bar Vetti continues to draw fans with the smashed meatball burger, the popular eggplant Parmesan sandwich, pastas and pizza. $$$$ L D pf BELLA ROMA AUTHENTIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT 134 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9495. Bella Roma adds classic Italian-American choices in a pleasant environment in the midst of New Albany’s growing restaurant row. $$$ L D f BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-2426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family Italian-American restaurants of the 1950s. $$ L D p CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$$ L D pf CIAO 1201 Payne St., 690-3532. You will find a full range of familiar Italian fare in this Irish Hill favorite. With lunch choices like pizzas, chicken Parmesan sandwiches and baked manicotti, and dinner dishes such as salumi platter, shrimp scampi, gnocchi alla vodka and pork osso bucco, Ciao has become more than a neighborhood favorite. $$ L D pf COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777. Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike other neighborhood saloons, this houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $$ L D p DIFABIO’S CASAPELA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. Reminiscent of a menu that harks back to the red-checked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccata, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ D f GRASSA GRAMMA 2210 Holiday Manor Ctr., 333-9595. Kevin Grangier’s newest dining idea is his take on familiar Italian food, just like your robust Italian grandmother made, only better. There’s lasagne, of course, and spaghetti and meatballs, ravioli and gnocchi and several other pastas, but prime beef filet with Gorgonzola sauce, veal scallopini, whole roasted branzino, and pizza, too. $$$$ Br L D p MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr. 3949797. Now locally owned, Martini’s continues to serve hearty, well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas, a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria. An

open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ Br L D pf MERCATO 10640 Meeting St., 690-3200. This Italian market and upscale casual restaurant in Norton Commons is under new ownership. Chef/owner Peter Pagano prepares lunch, brunch and dinner. Customers can buy cheeses, bread, charcuterie, sauces, packaged pastas and prepared meals for take-out in the market section. $$ Br L D p MILANO ITALIAN RESTAURANT 11300 Westport Rd., 742-2926. This family-owned restaurant with locations in Shelbyville and Mt. Washington has opened its first Louisville location. The menu, based on owner Jonathan Balderas’s grandmother’s recipes, features items like calzones, thick- and thin-crust pizzas, pasta and more than a dozen house specials with all dough, sauces and dressings made from scratch in house. $$ L D p MILANTONI ITALIAN RESTAURANT 1600 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 742-8210. This East End restaurant serves up all you would want in a casual Italian eatery: mozzarella sticks and calamari; subs and Philly cheesesteaks; pizzas and calzones; and a dozen or so different pastas. $$ L D p OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ L D p OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 339-7190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer Loop, 9682978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ L D p PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992. Start with fried artichokes, a Roman specialty. Opt for the grilled Romaine salad, then the gnocchi with spicy sausage. The grilled veal chop is a fine choice, and finish with tiramisu. $$$ L D pf ROC RESTAURANT 1327 Bardstown Rd., 459-7878. New York City chef/restaurateur Rocco Cadolini has transformed a Highlands building into an elegant upscale restaurant, with a handsome pergola in the front garden. The first floor has a large bar and casual dining, and upstairs sees a more formal white tablecloth space with several private dining rooms. Here you will find authentic Italian food, served with flair. Now open for lunch and the “disco brunches” are becoming legendary. $$$ D pf SARINO 1030 Goss Ave., 822-3777. Owners and brothers, Carmelo and Michael Gabriele, the next generation of the noted Gabriele family (owners of the highly revered Vincenzo’s), have taken over the short-lived Goss Ave. Pub space for their casual, authentic Italian restaurant that emphasizes fresh pasta and Neapolitan pizza, something Germantown had been lacking. The menu also features Sicilian street fare, Italian cheeses paired with charcuterie, and traditional entrees. $$ D p SILVIO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 104 Fairfax Ave., 883-6369. Owned by one of the Melillo family, fondly remembered for their NuLu retaurant before NuLu became popular, this St. Matthews spot evokes the classic New Jersey style Italian restaurants of the “Big Night” era: baked pasta dishes, cheese-stuffed rice balls, pasta fagiole, and eggplant Parmesan. $$ L D p SPAGHETTI SHOP 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-5400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ L D THE BLACK ITALIAN 2009 Highland Ave., 690-8914. Unpretentious Italian home-cooking is the style at this

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:33 AM Page 67

Highlands spot. Choose from six pasta dishes, grilled meatballs and chicken wings, and sub sandwiches. $$$ L D TOWN 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. The former Southern Indiana branch of the Come Back Inn has a new identity and a menu still focused on pasta dishes and pizzas with several new salads, sandwiches and a revamped appetizer selection. Other entrees include items like chicken piccata and Greek lamb pasta. $$ L D p TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced Italian-American fare at a price that’s right. $$ L D p VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. Chef and coowner Josh Moore has revised his menu after an inspirational tour of Italy, and brings in fantastic whole fish for seafood specials on Fridays. His pasta extruder allows him to do things like squid ink fettuccine. Volare continues to be a top spot for suave Italian dining. Moore supplies his kitchen with vegetables he raises himself on his Taylorsville farm. $$$ D pf

BARCELONA BISTRO BAR 10415 Taylorsville Rd., 6146055. Jeffersontown gets a Spanish restaurant thanks to chef/owner Alba Clementson. Here she offers Catalanstyle spinach with caramelized onions, roasted cashews, cranberries, and peanuts; paella; Serrano ham croquettes; and albondigas (pork meatballs in almond sauce), among other dishes. $$$ Br D p MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St.

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining

RED = Advertiser

Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojito quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $$ L D pf

APNA CAFÉ 11322 Maple Brook Dr., 690-7555. This Indian café attached to the neighboring grocery offers a colorful and aromatic assortment of curries and more. $$ LD BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-8892. With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ L D f CHAMLING KITCHEN & BAR 2249 Hikes Ln., 4512500. Another entrepreneurial immigrant family has opened Louisvillians’ taste buds to more ethnic possibilities. In the former Empress of China space, the Rai family serves standard Chinese hot table dishes, but also adds Nepalese and Indian fare. $ L D p CLAY OVEN INDIAN RESTAURANT 12567 Shelbyville Rd., 254-4363. Northern Indian cuisine with a focus on the clay oven specialties of the region, including some Nepalese dishes, like goat curry and chicken mo-mo (a kind of chicken and dumplings dish). Also selections of lamb dishes and, of course, a large vegetarian menu. $$ LD DAKSHIN SOUTH INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. This Indian restaurant has won many fans with its aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ B L D p

EGGHOLIC 1947 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 690-2116. This small Chicago chain boasts that its dishes are just like those found on Indian lahris (street carts). The menu offers egg dishes prepared in various styles of Indian cuisine, as well as sandwiches, rice dishes and curries. $$ B Br L D p HONEST INDIAN 9008 Taylorsville Rd., 690-8355. From a street cart in Ahmedabad, in western India, this chain expanded to Thailand and now to the U.S. Its menu offers abundant offerings from a variety of regional Indian cuisines. Offerings include bhaji pav, rava dosa, uttapam, aloo mutter and various chaat. $$ L D HYDERABAD HOUSE LOUISVILLE 12412 Shelbyville Rd., 405-8788. The first of this international chain of Indian restaurants to arrive in Louisville, this Middletown restaurant boasts that its Indian food is more authentic than other restaurants, with over 200 dishes on its menu, including several biryanis, curries, masalas and naan. $$ L D p KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1277 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ L D f KATHMANDU KITCHEN AND BAR 3825 Bardstown Rd., 202-1481. Named for the capital city of Nepal, this crisp, modern place in Buechel serves Nepalese food (a sort-of fusion of Chinese and Indian cuisines). Expect dishes such as pakoras, biruanis and even chow mein, but also Nepali items such as pork sakuwo (spiced pork chunks cooked on skewers), fried mo-mo (a kind of dumpling with dipping sauce) and khasikomaasu ra bhata, an aromatic stew with curried accents. $$ L D pf SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appear-

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 67


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:33 AM Page 68

ance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants. With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ L D SHREEJI INDIAN VEGETARIAN STREET FOOD 1986 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 890-4000. The extensive, completely vegetarian menu of this East End restaurant looks to the street food of India for dishes not often seen here: a variety of chaats, masala pav, hakka, dosa and even an aloo mutter sandwich, filled with a blend of potato, peas and a balance of savory spices. $$ L D SONAL'S KITCHEN 3741 Pamela Rae Dr., 408-5633. This East End Indian restaurant serves vegetarian and vegan dishes from all parts of the sub-continent, with emphasis on the dishes of South India. $$ L D TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ L D f TANDOORI FUSION 4600 Chamberlain Ln., 255-2590. The former Zeggz's location has been quickly taken over by entrepreneur Purna Veer, who uses Indian vegetables grown on his Oldham County farm. Veer promises that his dishes will not be “watered down,” so be ready for uncommon spice levels. $$ B L D pf TIKKA HOUSE 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 749-4535. Tikka House has garnered positive notice for both its lunch buffet and a la carte dinner service. Diners have praised dishes such as lamb masala with roasted coconut, Tandoori wings, fish pakora, paneer chili, several daal preparations and saag paneer. $$ L D pf

AL SULTAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 8129 Bardstown Rd., 630-3334. Located in the Glenmary Shopping Center, this Middle-Eastern restaurant offers the classics — shwarma and kofta, tabbouleh. $$ L D f ALADDIN’S MEDITERRANEAN 37 Bank St., New Albany IN, 489-7969. After bringing a higher level of Middle Eastern cuisine to the still-growing dining scene in New Albany, Aladdin’s has moved to the cool new Underground Station complex. You will still find wellcrafted gyros, chicken shawarma, tabbouleh and hummus in their sleek new environs. Finish your meal with thick Turkish coffee. $ L D CASPIAN GRILL PERSIAN BISTRO 2716 Frankfort Ave., 290-6050. Middle Eastern food of an above-average quality. Kabobs and hummus, of course, but also shirazi salad with tomatoes, cucumbers and onions in a lemony dressing, and chicken stew with pomegranate and walnuts. $ L D CHARCOAL 2805 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 749-8888. Chicken cooked over charcoal and served with garlic sauce is just one of the draws at this new Mediterranean restaurant. The menu also lists classics like falafel, chicken shawarma, hummus, baba ganoush, tahini salad — and baklava cheesecake. $$ L D f EAT A PITA 2286 Bardstown Rd., 473-7482. Enjoy Mediterranean-Middle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ L D FALAFEL OASIS 226 W. Broadway, 742-2030. The owner of Superior Market and Deli a few doors away has also opened this Middle Eastern restaurant, serving gyros, falafel, and other regional fare. $ L D GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. For those in the know, the Grape Leaf has long been a destination spot, well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery nich in both ambiance and quality of food. Prices remain affordable; the food and mood justify a special trip. $$ L Df 68 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

JERUSALEM KITCHEN 4413 Saint Rita Dr., 614-6465. Little Jerusalem Café has moved from the Iroquois Manor area and moderately rebranded itself. You can still find a range of Mediterranean dishes here, shawarma and fattoush, gyros and hummus and so on. $$ D f LITTLE GREEK FRESH GRILL 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 690-8348. This Arkansas-based chain is now serving dolmades and spanikopita, pita sandwiches and wraps, a variety of skewers and mousaka and pastitsio. $$ L D p MAIRA MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 1907 S. Fourth St., 963-5999. Owners of the popular Safier restaurant in Theater Square have opened this U of L location, serving Middle Eastern food such as shawarma, kebab, falafel, hummus, lentil soup and baklava. $ L D f MASALA GRILL 528 S. Fifth St., 562-0202. $ L MIRAGE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 4100 Preston Hwy., 363-7788. Preston Highway’s international restaurant row is enriched by this Middle Eastern eatery, run by the owners of the now-defunct Little Jerusalem. Gyros, hummus, falafel — what one would expect, but done with attention to details and a flair for flavor. $$ L D f PASHA'S MEDITERRANEAN 3904 Bardstown Rd., 4094532. You can find the usual Mediterranean fare here – falafel, baba ghanouj – but with influences of Jordanian recipes such as Kalaya, ground lamb cooked in tomatoes, and char-grilled lamb liver. Fans cite the value-sized portions. $$ L D f SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 5851125. You can get standard American fare at this downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich? $ L D f SAM’S GYRO 3123 S. Second St., 709-4292. This hummus and kebab joint, with its tasty food and friendly service, has moved out to the South End. The menu features everything you would expect from a typical Eastern Mediterranean menu: falafel, tabouli, gyros, baklava and spanakopita. $ L D SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 426-9954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4263440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232, 4614 Chamberlain Ln., 919-9014, 1565 Bardstown Rd., 7490385. From a tiny neighborhood storefront, Shiraz quickly grew out of its original location and expanded into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, such as chargrilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavash. $ L D f SYRIAN GRILL ABU ABDU 3325 Bardstown Rd., 7490071. This Middle Eastern restaurant, tucked away amid other businesses just past the Watterson, serves familiar Mediterranean dishes — kibbeh, shawarma, biryani — and also family size meals of mixed grill and the Syrian rice dish mansaf. $$ L D TAZIKI’S MEDITERRANEAN CAFÉ 13317 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6222, 106 Fairfax Ave., 212-5373. At these Alabama-based chain outlets the food is made fresh daily with vegan and gluten-free choices. The menu includes grilled chicken roll-ups, a grilled tilapia sandwich with dill-caper sauce, gyros, a grilled vegetable and rice plate, roasted potatoes and baklava, along with beer and wine. $$ L D pf ZOE’S KITCHEN 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now has two Louisville locations. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, rollups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ L D

CARALI'S ROTISSERIE CHICKEN 9148 Taylorsville Rd., 618-0699, 642 Baxter Ave., 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 618-

2725, 5439 New Cut Rd., 963-5698, 211 S. Fifth St., 654-7131, 703 E. Lewis and Clark Pkwy. You will find Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken and other South American dishes here: lomo (grilled marinated steak), chaufa rice and various salads and side dishes (such as stuffed avocado). Sandwiches as well as full dinners, and take away half and full roasted chickens. $ L D p CLASSICO TAKEOUT AND EMPANADAS 104. S. Preston St., 489-1380. Downtown eaters now have a way to enjoy some of the crowd-pleasing dishes of wellknonw to fans of Clifton’s Caffe Classico. Restaurateur Tommy Mudd’s new downtown kiosk will focus on hand-held takeaway choices, including his well-regarded empanadas. Espresso too, and limited outdoor seating. $$ B L p f EL RINCONCITO 4806 Bardstown Rd., 742-9537. This Peruvian restaurant adds to the ethnic choices in Buechel. The happy chicken logo touts the charcoalgrilled chicken, but the menu includes salchipapa (sausage and potatoes), lomo saltado (a beef stew), plantains and Peruvian green rice. $ L D EL SAZON DE ABUELA 8506 Preston Hwy., 290-0030. The ethnic food choices along Preston Highway continue to expand with this Puerto Rican restaurant. Mofongo, – smashed plantains infused with garlic and seasonings – is a comfort food staple of PR cuisine made with shrimp, chicken, seafood, or veggies and broth. Breakfast dishes, burgers, and sandwiches are also on offer. $$ B L D f I LOVE TACOS 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 384-2154, 1534 Bardstown Rd., 742-4119, 3550 Springhurst Commons Dr., 749-6847. The opening of the third location of this locally-owned Mexican spot testifies to restaurant’s popularity. The menu’s focus extends beyond the expectations of the name with burritos and quesadillas too. But the birria taco, filled with spiced stewed beef and then crisped on a griddle, has become a sort of signature dish. $$ L D pf LA BODEGUITA DEL MEDIO 5700 Outer Loop, 7422144. You can find a variety of Latin dishes here, from tamales and tacos to cerdo asado (roast pork in citrus marinade), ropa vieja and churrasco, seafood and soups. $$ L D p LA GUANAQUITA 4231 Taylor Blvd., 822-1343. This South End spot serves the dishes of Guatemala and Honduras: pupusas and baleadas and pescado frito (fried fish), served whole, head and tail on, garnished with lime wedges and avocado slices. $$ L D LA SUERTE 2116 Bardstown Rd., 883-1000. Owner Chris Seckman has transformed his Douglass Loop North End Café site into a Latin restaurant. Partner and Executive Chef Adrian Jimarez Neri offer dishes inspired by his mother and grandmother. The dinner menu includes pollo tostadas, shrimp a la parilla, pork posole and shrimp a la diabla. Brunch will offer molletes, migas, and jalapeño biscuits with chorizo gravy. $$$ Br D pf SABOR LATINO 1273 S. Brook St., 276-4954. A welcome addition to Old Louisville is this tiny restaurant serving a “Latin Culinary Mix,” as a sign advertises. The menu offers Cuban sandwiches, patatas bravas, burritos, quesadillas, carne asada, ropa vieja and pollo de vacaciones – a chicken stew. $$ L D f SENORA AREPA 721 E. Market St., 795-3995. The longawaited Senora Arepa serves the rich Venezuelan cuisine, with influences from Spanish, West African, and Native American cultures. Arepas, the cornmeal bread stuffed with meat or cheese that is ubiquitous in northern Latin America, anchors the casual menu. $$ L D pf YUMMY POLLO 4222 Bishop Ln., 618-1400. You can get Peruvian-style charcoal roasted chicken here by the piece, half or whole bird. American-style side dishes include fried or mashed potatoes, rice, steamed vegetables, slaw and pasta salad. $ L

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:33 AM Page 69

BANDIDO TAQUERIA MEXICANA 423 University Blvd., 996-7788, 905 E. Liberty St., 384-2527. These Mexican places, the first in a strip mall near U of L, the second next to Falls City Brewing in NuLu, serve California-style tacos, quesadillas, burritos, nachos and burrito bowls, with a choice of four salsas at the condiment bar. $$ L D f BUBBAKOO’S BURRITOS 12919 Factory Ln., 384-0778, 4214 Shelbyville Rd., 630-2017. This East Coast fastcasual chain has now opened two locations here, with more area locations on the corporate radar. Lots of standard Mexican fare (tacos, quesadillas, nachos), along with wings and choice of six sauces. One house specialty is the Chiwawa, a stuffed rice ball, breaded and fried. $$ LD CAFÉ AROMA 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 618-3434. This little shop along the lower Brownsboro food corridor touts “a world of flavor with a Mexican flair.” It’s mostly Mexican and really mostly good, according to our friends in the neighborhood. Affordable, casual and filling. $ L D CANCÚN 808 Lyndon Ln., 883-1924, 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 742-3697. Now with two locations, Cancún offers familiar dishes, combination platters, and steak and seafood specialties like carne bandito and tostados de ceviche. $$ L D pf CHIPOTLE MEXICAN GRILL 315 S. Fourth St., 5848606, 10333 Westport Rd., 526-5170, 1075 Bardstown Rd., 452-8990, 13303 Shelbyville Rd., 244-7173, 420 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 425-3017. Now with five Louisville locations, this increasingly popular Tex-Mex chain, with an emphasis on cooking with humanely-raised meat products, seems to have struck a chord with consumers. $LDf

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining

RED = Advertiser

EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1909 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 266-9605. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ L D p EL COMAL TAQUERIA 9609 Dixie Hwy., 632-2053. As one might expect, the main focus here is on tacos, including party taco trays, but other choices include burritos, quesadillas and chilaquiles. $ L D p EL MARIACHI 9901 La Grange Rd., 413-5770. Fans of this Mexican restaurant, situated between a bakery and an ethnic grocery, find much to rave about: tacos and burritos made with the bakery’s fresh tortillas, funky authentic fillings and quick, friendly service. $ B L D p EL MOLCAJETE 8106 Preston Hwy., 742-3485, 2932 S. Fourth St., 638-0300. You can get gringo-style tacos (with shredded lettuce, cheese & sour cream) at this south-end Mexican joint. But if you come here, why not eat like a native? Lash your pork, beef and chicken tacos with fresh-squeezed lime juice and a heap of sliced radishes. Want to get truly authentic? Step up to beef tongue (lengua), intestine (tripas) or brain (sesos). $$ L Dp EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930, 1767 Bardstown Rd., 384-5633. he crowded little Crescent Hill storefront, offering creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!”, now has a second outlet in the multi-level space in the Highlands that once was Asiatique. Both locations provide high-quality Mexican food and drink. $ L D pf EL NOPAL (22 Locations) These locally-owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain, winning popularity on the basis of delicious and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $ L D pf

EL PASTORCITO 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-3277, 4132 Outer Loop, 618-0520. El Pastorcito serves Mexican street food (tacos, sopes, tortas, etc.) and a range of Mexican/American entrées (gorditas, quesadillas, burgers and chicken tenders). $$ L D p f EL RIO GRANDE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 632-2403. A Mexican restaurant has taken over the expansive space that once was Limestone. Patrons report good experiences, with both the food and the service. $$ L D p EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 2850109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ B L D pf EL TACO LOCO 5622 Preston Hwy., 225-7229. This unpretentious Mexican restaurant tries to be as authentic as it can, and has persuaded many fans with its efforts. Inexpensive, freshly made tacos, quesadillas and other familiar Mexican dishes, served in value sizes. $ L D EL TACO LUCHADOR 938 Baxter Ave., 583-0440, 112 Meridian Ave., 709-5154, 9204 Taylorsville Rd., 7081675, 5205 New Cut Rd. (Colonial Gardens), 384-8457. With the opening of the Colonial Gardens site and a store in J’town, Olé Restaurant Group now has five taquerias that all have diners lined up out the door. Familiar taco names — carnitas, carne asada — get clever riffs in the kitchen. Call it elevated Mexican street food. And do try the fantastic tortas. $ L D f EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010. El Tarasco’s take on Mexican food appeals both to the area’s growing Latino population and Anglos who want to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ L D p EL TORAZO 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7272. A family-oriented Mexican restaurant offers the expected

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 69


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:33 AM Page 70

menu items, as well as some more sophisticated dishes, such as 7 mares sopa, a soup with shrimp, scallops and octopus; banderillas, a colorful beef brochette; and chuleta sabrosa, a Durango-style grilled steak. $$ L D pf EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ L D pf FELIPE’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 742-9142, 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 919-7014. The second East End location seems to show that the ethnic fare at Felipe’s is well-made, and tasty. The menu lists 16 chicken dishes from various areas of Mexico, along with variations on fajitas and tacos. $$ L D p FIESTA MEXICANA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ L Dp

offers burritos as big as your head, and tacos, quesadillas and tortas too. $ L D LA CATRINA MEXICAN KITCHEN 202 E. Elm St., New Albany IN, 725-8264. The owners of Señor Iguanas restaurants have opened this Mexican party food and street food restaurant in the building that Dragon King’s Daughter moved out of. Look for naked and dressed tacos, soups, salads and shareable dishes and seasonal menu updates. $$ L D pf LA CHAPINLANDIA 1209 McCawley Rd., 384-7075. If those tiny hole-in-the-wall places are the best for real Mexican food, this little South End place will satisfy Okolona’s need for tacos and burritos. $ L D p LA LUPITA 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-0083. Tucked away on the back side of a strip mall, this is a new spot for authentic Mexican food. The usual stuff but also panbazos, tlacoyos, tlayudas and aguachile, all explained and illustrated on the menu. $$ L D pf

FIESTA TIME AMIGOS 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444, 135 S. English Station Rd., 254-7755. These traditional Mexican restaurant’s locations serve the expected things, like fajitas and burritos. But there is also an extensive grill menu, with items such as steak tampiqueño (rib-eye steak with ranchero sauce), Chile Colorado and Los Amigos cheese steak. $ L D pf

LA POPULAR 2521 Seventh St Rd., 636-3688.$LDp

FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $ L D p

LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 8730 Westport Rd., 618-4588, 5059 Preston Hwy., 618-2883. For those who crave genuine Mexican tacos, you want them convenient when the urge to scarf one down strikes. These little places will certainly satisfy those cravings. $ L D

FISTFUL OF TACOS 2708 Paoli Pk., New Albany IN, 557-0226. This ambitious little taco joint in the Knobs offers five taco choices - The Good (chicken tinga, citrus slaw),The Bad (beef, pico de gallo), The Ugly (Bourbon pork, mango salsa), The Vegan (roasted sweet potato, black bean) and The Pesky (scallop ceviche, melon). $$ LDf FOKO 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), (210) 7925858. Chef Paco Garcia fuses his two favorite cuisines, Mexican and Southern. The result is chicken with jalapeno gravy or tortas with collard greens, among others. $$ L D f GUACAMOLE MODERN MEXICAN 900 E. Market St., 212-8225. This popular East End modern Mexican restaurant has relocated to NuLu, taking over the space that had been Rye. No Tex-Mex here, just pure Mexican: asados and moles and pibils, along with authentic variations on familiar choices such as tacos, burritos and enchiladas. The bar menu is centered on Mexican cocktails. $$ D pf GUSTAVO’S MEXICAN GRILL 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 434-7266, 10715 Meeting St., 690-7070, 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 420-1100. Gustavo’s offers “bold Mexican flavors.” Everything you would expect — fajitas, burritos, tacos — but also vegetarian options, house specialties like enchiladas verdes, chimichangas, shrimp tacos and pollo feliz (grilled chicken with chorizo and pineapple). $$ L D pf ISRAEL’S DELICIAS DE MEXICO GOURMET 604 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 725-9139. Israel Landon introduced Kentuckiana to his Mexican home-style cooking at La Rosita a few years ago. Now he is moving into the former Destinatins Booksellers space by the end of March. Look for street tacos and Mayan quesadillas and weekly specials highlighting cuisine from various regions of Mexico, including seafood dishes and new desserts. $ L D f JOELY'S BAR & GRILL 1999 Brownsboro Rd., 742-9456. Taking over the former El Frijol location in Clifton, this Mexican restaurant serves breakfast, burritos, quesadillas, tortas and chimichangas. Dinner choices range from pollo con arroz to carnitas de puerco to seafood. $$ L D p LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. The revamped and updated Highlands authentic fast food place still

70 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

LA RIVIERA MAYA 8104 National Turnpike, 361-3566. This South End Mexican restaurant is popular with local Latinos, which is always a good sign. Look for gorditas and carne asada, as well as familiar fare like enchiladas. Word is that the horchata is rich and spiced just right. $ LDp

LA SIERRA RESTAURANT AND TAQUERIA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ LA TORTA LOCA 5213 Preston Hwy., 966-3254. This simple, strip mall eatery has been around long enough to gain dedicated fans of their well-seasoned and fairly spicy versions of familiar Mexican dishes. Some of those fans recommend the agua de Jamaica (hibiscus). LA TROPICANA 5215 Preston Hwy., 964-5957. This Latino grocery store has been selling a full range of fruits, vegetables, meats and grocery items for a while. Now there is a steam-table buffet with a wide range of lunch choices. It’s mostly take-away, but there’s also limited outdoor and indoor seating. $$ B L D f LAS CAZUELAS 4214 Bishop Ln., 614-8634. This unassuming strip mall eatery has amassed a dedicated local clientele with fast, friendly service, cold margaritas and well-prepared familiar Mexican fare. $$ L D pf LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small, thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz now also have a sit-down storefront just down the street. $ D f LAS MARGARITAS MEXICAN RESTAURANT 12220 Shelbyville Rd., 963-5503, 307 Central Ave., 690-8071. The emphasis here is on the cuisine of the Gulf coast of Mexico. You will find the familiar (tacos, fajitas) and the slightly different — caldo de pollo (Mexican chicken soup), mole poblano and salmon al ajillo (garlic salmon) and tlayollos, a variation on tamales. $$ L D p LIMÓN Y SAL 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 423-4604. This authentic Mexican kitchen offers suburbanites many choices: taquitos, bocadillos and dips to start, soups such as pozole and caldo de camarón (shrimp soup), tacos, tortas and combination dinners. $$ L D pf LOS AZTECAS 445 E. Market St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Genuine Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville thanks to a growing immigrant community. Los Aztecas,

one of the best, has moved its W. Main St. anchor store to E. Market, taking over the larger, spiffy space left by Wild Rita’s closing. It’s satellite locations are still bustling too. $ L D pf LUCKY BURRITO 2118 Bardstown Rd., 883-1000. Christopher Seckman and partner Adrian Jimarez Neri morphed the Douglass Loop location of North End Café into the Modern Latin restaurant La Suerte. Now the team has added a new offering next door: Lucky Burrito is a quick-service place with hefty burritos, nicely-priced tacos, and plenty of interesting ingredients and an assortment of deftly-crafted tacos. $$ L D f LUNA'S MEXICAN ROTISSERIE 5213 Preston Hwy., 962-8898. The owners came from Puebla, Mexico, but made a stop in Los Angeles before moving to Louisville and starting Luna’s Rotisserie. Their specialty is slowcooked rotisserie chicken from the coast of Veracruz. There’s plenty more on the board, such as tamales, quesadillastarlights and menudo. On Saturdays & Sundays, pozole and cabo de camaron are added. $$ L D MANGO’S BAR & GRILL 4632 Hendrik Dr., 671-5291. This Mexican-American restaurant chain serves a Latin lunch buffet seven days a week as well as a full dinner menu. You will find burritos, tacos and tamales, but also several steak dishes and Mexican-style desserts. $$ L D MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán arguably kicked off the restaurant renaissance along East Market Street, in the area now known as NuLu. His stylish bistro serves distinctive cuisine from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula. $$ D pf MEXA TACOS 3701 Lexington Rd., 290-1334. This fastcasual restaurant features a list of signature steak tacos customizable with house-made salsas, guacamole, peppers and other toppings, such as the special house queso made with poblano peppers. Owner Lorena CasasOstos is a steak taco purist, but she offers fish, shrimp and pork pastor too. $$ L D p MEXICO CITY TAQUERIA & RESTAURANT 3826 Hamburg Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 283-1072. This bright little Mexican place in a Jeffersonville strip mall offers the usual, and on weekends adds traditional Mexican soups like caldos de camarones, menudo and pozole. $ L D MI BONITO PINOTEPA 7200 Preston Hwy., 290-5328. Dishes from southern Mexico, around Oaxaca, are the focus of this Okolona strip mall restaurant. Look for Oaxacan-style tamales, various moles and tlayudos, a kind off open-faced quesadilla. $ L D MI CASITA PARRILLA MEXICANA 520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666. Enthusiastic fans of the restaurant formerly known as Mi Cocina will find the same quick and efficient lunch service and dishes executed with skill under the new name change. The margaritas at Happy Hour are notable. $$ L D pf MI TIERRA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 742-9142, 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 384-3101. These two clean, well-lighted places in the East End serve up familiar Mexican food – fajitas, tacos, carne asada – in a friendly, efficient atmosphere that is drawing raves from its local fans. $ L D pf NEW WAVE BURRITOS 3311 Preston Hwy., 963-2727. The late-night burrito delivery service that has been operating out of borrowed kitchen spaces since late 2014 has moved into its own space at the former Grind Burger location. In addition to their five signature burritos new items include tacos, tortas and chicharrones. $$ D NOCHE MEXICAN BBQ 1838 Bardstown Rd., 467-8015. Inside a de-commissioned Lutheran Church, illuminated by the large stained glass windows in the sanctuary/dining room, you can find authentic Tex-Mex barbecue. Look for brisket and pulled pork smoked with Noche’s special spice blend, fajitas, flautas, green chili macaroni and cheese and grilled Mexican street corn. $$ D pf

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:33 AM Page 71

OLE FRIJOLE 5612 Bardstown Rd., 822-3388. After a bit of a hike out Bardstown Rd., you will find oversized margaritas, well-priced, nicely made familiar Mexican food, and a welcoming atmosphere. The customize-yourguacamole bar is a popular feature. $$ L D p PIÑA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food have another place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $LDp

(tongue or meat pulled from the head) as well as more familiar fixings. $$ L D p TAQUERIA EL MEXICANO 7611 Preston Hwy., 6904044. You can enjoy authentic Mexican cuisine for breakfast, lunch and dinner at this Okolona spot. A variety of ceviche, tortas, tacos, burritos and quesadillas are available every day, but pozole and menudo are weekend specials. $$ B L D p

PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Church Rd., 239-4646. $$ L D p

TAQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 9694449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront. This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ L D

QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (17 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ L D f

TAQUERIA LOS GORDITOS 2017 Brownsboro Rd., 5098676. Joining the burgeoning taco-oriented restaurant choices is this new spot in Clifton. “Gorditos” means “the fat ones.” so expect overfilled tacos, burritos and other Mexican standards. $ B L D

RAMIRO’S CANTINA 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333. Ramiro Gandara’s Mexican restaurant in the heart of Crescent Hill’s restaurant row has his mom, Tina Ruton Escajeda, in control in the kitchen. Together they deliver some unique menu items, such as enchiladas verdes, lobster quesadilla, guacamole burger, and shrimp fajitas. And don’t forget Tina’s specialty: scratch-made tamales. Vegetarian choices too, and a full bar. $ L D pf

TINO'S TACOS 161 Outer Loop, 742-3030. An extensive menu here offers all the Mexican food choices Americans are familiar with including tortas, burritos, gorditas, quesadillas and fajitas. $ L D p

RAMIRO’S CANTINA EXPRESS 253 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 924-7770. Long-time restaurateur Ramiro Gandara’s second restaurant, a quick-casual version of his Frankfort Ave. spot, is now serving in Jeffersonville. Order at the counter, grab and go, or sit down and enjoy. Ramiro features his favorites: burritos, chicken bowls, nachos, tortas and tacos. A full bar, too. $ L D pf SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $LD SEÑOR IGUANA’S (3 locations) This local chain has gone upscale with re-designed crisp modern decor, wellprepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casual, comfortable modern atmosphere. $ L D pf SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Rd., 459-7776. Founded by Saul Garcia down on Main St.’s museum row, his restaurant has an extensive menu that satisfies those who want standard fare like tacos, fajitas and burritos, and also offers more sophisticated fare like salmon and shrimp, steak and several Mexican chicken preparations. $ L D pf TACO CHOZA 3922 Westport Rd., 409-5080. In the heart of St. Matthews, this locally-owned taqueria also makes burritos and quesadillas, pours craft beers, and offers daily margarita specials. $ L D pf TACO CITY LOUISVILLE 1283 Bardstown Rd., 4099454, 11601 Shelbyville Rd., 742-1638. Both locations of this Mexican place — run by three Mexico natives — serve tacos on homemade corn tortillas, tortas, salads and burritos, using recipes straight from Mexico like the mole sauce by the owner’s grandma. $ L D f

TORCHY'S TACOS 1540 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 645-4800. This Texas-based taco chain has expanded east to Jeffersonville. Try the "Trailer Park" taco with fried chicken, green chiles and pico de gallo, or go for a Scallywag, with coconut-battered shrimp, bacon, green chiles, and peach habanero jam. Or choose a salad, fajita or burrito, There’s a full bar featuring margaritas and specialty cocktails. $$ B L D p f VALLARTA MEXICAN SEAFOOD AND GRILL 9874 Linn Station Rd., 290-6268. This family-owned restaurant serves freshly cooked seafood dishes in the style of Mexico’s Pacific coast, as well as more familiar Mexican fare (tacos, fajitas, burritos). Fans enjoy the large portions. $ L D p VICTORIA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2918 Hikes Ln., 709-5178. $ L D f YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs IN, 9030313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana restaurant that offers standard Mexican cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ L D p ZOMBIE TACO 100 W. Washington St. (Moxy Hotel), 716-7377. This always-open walk-up taco window at the new Moxy Hotel features Taco Tuesdays specials on tacos and margaritas, a 3-taco survival box with a side of chips and salsa, and deep discounts for restaurant industry workers on Sundays and Mondays. $$ B L D pf

CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Ct., 327-3033, 1440 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-2489. The Austin, Texas “unchain,” has two area locations, offering a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and Tex-Mex food at reasonable prices. $$ L D pf

TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year Taco Bell was born in Southern California, the Taco Tico chain had been gone locally for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ L D

MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 893-6637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fast-food MexicanAmerican than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ L D

TAQUERIA DON JUAN 615 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 920-1238. This addition to Clarksville’s rich array of Mexican restaurants focuses on seafood: ceviche, oysters, seafood cocktails, and caldo de camarones. But it doesn’t neglect meats. Choose tacos filled with lengua or cabeza

SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 365-1424. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Now with two locations, in St. Matthews and Middletown. $ L D f

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining

RED = Advertiser

TUMBLEWEED TEX MEX GRILL & MARGARITA BAR (8 locations). Starting as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany, Tumbleweed grew to become an area favorite serving bold, southwest-inspired food such as burritos, spicy chile con queso, mesquite-grilled steaks, fish and chicken. The Margarita Bar offers two dozen tequila varieties and dozens of sweet and tangy margarita combinations. $ L D p

ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ANNIE MAY’S SWEETS CAFÉ 3110 Frankfort Ave., 3842667. The only gluten and nut-free bakery in the state caters to customers with dietary issues such as celiac disease and allergies. Cookies, brownies, cakes, pies, wedding cakes all made without wheat, dairy, eggs, soy or tree nuts. Arrive early, before the vegan and allergen-free oatmeal cream pie cookies sell out. $ BOOMTOWN CREAMERY 114 E. Main St., New Albany IN, (812) 590-1314. Next door to Boomtown Kitchen (in the space that housed the legendary South Side Inn), this ice-cream shop serves hand-dipped ice cream and large shakes. $ L D BOUDREAUX’S NEW ORLEANS STYLE SNO-BALLS 11816 Shelbyville Rd., This little family run shop offers the garishly colored shaved ice treat with all sorts of syrup flavors and toppings. $ f BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510. $ B BUTCHERTOWN GROCERY BAKERY 729 E. Main St., 742-8315. With its move from a cramped upstairs space on Washington Street to more spacious digs on Main, Butchertown Grocery’s bakery maven Barbara Turner now offers a wide range of pastries, breads, chocolates, cookies, sandwiches, soups and take-home dinners. Good Folks coffee provides fresh-squeezed juices and local kombuchas, coffee and espresso. $$ B Br L D p CLIFTON DONUTS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 749-6896. A family from Thailand produces very fresh donuts of all sorts daily to an appreciative crowd from the Clifton corridor. Fans favorably compare the offerings here to those at the chains, lauding freshness of product and friendliness of service. $ B COLD STONE CREAMERY 1013 Jefferson Commons Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0034, 2015 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-7750, 976 Breckenridge Ln, 894-6292. The angle that distinguishes this ice cream chain is the long list of add-ons that fans can choose to have worked into their favorite flavor: bananas, berries, candies, cookies and nuts, to name a few. Ice cream cakes, smoothies and shakes too. $ THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979, 2223 Frankfort Ave., 409-4616, 339 W. Cardinal Blvd., 4095090, 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 883-4128, 4005 Summit Plaza Dr. (Paddock Shops), 423-4465, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). Now fans of this “new-fashioned” ice-cream parlor can find their favorite flavors popping up all over town. And, you can now find Comfy Cow products in Krogers ice cream section. $ f CRUMBL COOKIES 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 405-8156. This gourmet cookie chain specializes in fresh-baked cookies with a weekly rotating menu that always includes a warm milk chocolate chip cookie and a chilled sugar cookie. $ B L D f DAIRY KASTLE 575 Eastern Pkwy., 634-8990. A long-time seasonal favorite that has drawn celebrities (like Denny

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022

71


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:33 AM Page 72

Crum and Rick Pitino) and is ever popular with Germantown folks craving cones, flurries, milkshakes, sundaes and chili dogs. Seasonal: March-November. $ f DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 368-9280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate wrapped in choux pastry are also available. $ DINO’S BAKERY 4162 Bardstown Rd., 493-2396. Dino Ghazawi, whose family owned a bakery in his native Jordan, has renovated space in the Buechel Plaza Shopping Center, installed three ovens for baking pita, French and Italian bread and pies. Many of those are sold wholesale, but retail shoppers can get locally made fresh pita and other Middle Eastern groceries. $ B DUCK DONUTS 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 614-6657. This coastal North Carolina-based chain offers high concept donuts (S’mores donuts, maple-bacon donuts) and a create your own donut option. Or, try a breakfast sandwich built on a donut, if you dare. $ EHRLER'S ICE CREAM 201 E. Main St., 749-2236. Louisville’s iconic ice cream shop returns after a long hiatus. Good, locally-made ice cream and nostalgia for the ice cream treats of childhood will be the main draws. $f GELATO GILBERTO 9434 Norton Commons Blvd., 4237751. 9434 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-7751, 2240 Frankfort Ave., 422-0908. Justin and Kristin Gilbert so loved the gelato they ate as students in Italy that they returned there after graduating to study gelato making. Their popular Norton Commons store now has a sibling in Clifton. You can get crepes at both stores as well. $ GEORGIA'S SWEET POTATO PIE CO. 1559 Bardstown Rd., 742-2852. If you watched Grace & Frankie, you know how versatile sweet potatoes can be. In addition to several variations on sweet potato pie, ice cream and cookies, you can find sweet potato-infused soy candles, room sprays and wax melts. $ L D GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4994998. This Tennessee-based chain offers a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $

HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this downhomey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ B INSOMNIA COOKIES 1913 S. Fourth St., 385-5143, 948 Baxter Ave., 665-0237. This late-night (til 3 a.m.) cookie and ice cream delivery business was so successful with U of L students that the owners opened a second location in the Highlands. You can order ice cream sandwich cookies too; drink choices are milk or chocolate milk, of course. $ L D JASMIN BAKERY 2201 Steier Ln., 458-0013. This “European-style” bakery offers an eclectic menu of Eastern Mediterranean fare, such as gyros and baklava, as well as breads. $ B L D f JEFF'S DONUTS 5420 IN-62, Jeffersonville IN, 283-3636, 6401 Dutchmans Ln., 365-3299. Jeff concocts 40 variations of donuts. The Texas donut (order in advance) is large enough for several people. Also available are apple and cherry hand pies, cinnamon twists and glazed honey buns. The Jeffersonville location is open 24 hrs. $ B L D JJ BAKES & CO. 210 W. Liberty (Omni Hotel), 606-2263566. This counter service and custom order bakery specializes in wedding cakes and spectacular desserts. Owner Jackie Joseph, encouraged by stints at The Brown Hotel and her gig cooking for the 2010 Olympic team, entered — and won — the Food Network’s “Best Baker in America” in 2021. KING DONUT 814 Eastern Pkwy., 742-9003. You’ll find a tasty selection of donuts, along with ice cream, breakfast sandwiches and smoothies at this friendly, brightly lit neighborhood favorite on the edge of Germantown. $ B LD KING DONUTS 608 Lyndon Ln., 890-5293. Donuts, yes, but you can also choose muffins, breakfast sandwiches and sandwiches for lunch. Healthy juices as well as coffee. $ B L D LA MAISON AUX CREPES 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market). Eight kinds of filled crepes, savory and sweet, and two kinds of waffles are available at this addition to the restaurant row at Logan Street Market. $$ B L D p

GLOW WORM PLAY CAFÉ 962 Barret Ave., 690-4633. Calling itself “the first play café in Louisville,” Glow Worm offers three play sessions per day for children 6 and under, while parents wait, mingle or work in the fullservice café. $ B L

LA PANA BAKERY 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 936-0307. At this takeaway kiosk you can find traditional Oaxacan sweetbreads or pan dulce: orejitas, a fried dough pastry not unlike elephant ears; concha, a sweet roll and pan de muerto, a sweet bread eaten on the Day of the Dead. Be sure to try the donuts filled with lechesilla custard. $ B L pf

GOLDEN GATE DONUTS 8605 Smyrna Pkwy., 8830012. This South End donut shop has garnered copious fans for their always freshly-made donuts and creamfilled Long Johns, French crullers, giant bear claws and apple fritters. Savory breakfast sandwiches too. $ B L

LEANN'S HOME MADE CHEESECAKES 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 919-597-1625. Whole cheesecakes and cheesecake cupcakes can be found at this new grab-and-go food option at Logan Street Market. $$$ L D p

HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ B L D

LEAVEN BAKERY 1515 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 536-8823. Zechariah and Kimberly Maxey, veterans of Jack Fry’s and the Brown Hotel, have opened a French bistro/bakery in a 100-year-old New Albany building. In addition to baked goods, the bakery will also serve breakfast and lunch items: eggs Benedict, omelets, mussels with spicy marinara sauce, BLTs with pork belly and other seasonal menu choices. $$ B L f

HI-FIVE DOUGHNUTS 1011 E. Main St., 409-5584. Owners Annie Harlow and Leslie Wilson started with a food truck, and now are among the pioneer businesses in the Butcher Block on E. Main St. Customers can create their own with a choice of glazes and toppings or choose house favorites like Kentucky Fried Buttermilk Chicken Doughnut, Bourbon Caramel with Bacon, or Sugah Doughnut. $ B L HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 3521 Springhurst Commons Dr., 326-8990, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 3113 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 590-3580, 4810 Dixie Hwy., 409-6100. $ L D f 72 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

LIÈGE & DAIRY ICE CREAM + WAFFLES 2212 Holiday Manor Ctr., 290-0065. Enjoy this shop’s locally roasted coffee and in-house crafted ice cream. Made with local honey, sorghum molasses, fruits, and non-GMO cream, Liège uses a process that creates a denser ice cream. $ L D LOUISVILLE CREAM 632 E. Market St., 882-1516. After three years as an off-the-radar caterer and pop-up seller of premium ice creams, Louisville Cream has settled down in NuLu. Co-founder Darryl Goodner offers eight standard flavors (including Camp Marshmallow, Brown Sugar Brie and Hot Fuzz, roasted peaches with charred

jalapenos) and four flavors in rotation, as well as apple pies, bourbon chocolate pies and a third ever-changing pie. $ L D f LUEBERRY ACAI & SUPERFOODS 808 E. Market St., 742-0640. This café serves açai bowls topped with things like goji berries, banana, chia, strawberries and coconut. Smoothies and other healthful options also available. $$ BLD MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 426-9645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ B NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This oldschool, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true — bacon. $ B NORTH LIME DONUTS 1228 S. Seventh St., 384-2320. This Lexington-based bakery has renovated a 19thcentury factory building into a warm and inviting space to eat their made-on-premises donuts on the western edge of Old Louisville. Some of their unusual flavors: blueberry cheesecake, French toast and pumpkin cream cheese. $ B Lf PANCHITOS ICE CREAM 8112 Preston Hwy, 554-6222, 2245 Bardstown Rd., 554-4190. Lexington-based Panchito’s now has two outlets in Louisville, offering Mexican ice cream, popsicles (paletas), tacos, quesadillas and other Mexican snacks. The new Highlands outpost is in the former Bánh Mi Hero building. $ L D PARIS BANH MI & BAKERY 1237 Bardstown Rd., 3849676. You will find a wide variety of Vietnamese sandwiches here, as well as pastries ranging from croissants to apple turnovers and a long list of cakes, some gluten-free. $$ B L D f PEARL STREET TREATS 301 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN. 288-8850. An invigorating walk across the Big Four Bridge will bring you down very close to this family-run frozen yogurt shop that also serves soup, chili, cookies, popcorn, and frozen dog treats. Novelty soda flavors in the cooler, but they will refill your water bottle for free. $ L D PENNY AND PEARL'S BAKESHOP 106 Fairfax Ave., 890-6004. This St. Matthews bakery offers 8 to 10 flavors daily of cookies with a crispy edge and a softer middle. Look for weekly specials which include snickerdoodle with brown butter, crème brulée cookies and salted caramel pretzel ‘sammies’. $ B L PHILLY'S BEST FROZEN DESSERTS 3912 Bardstown Rd., 996-0640, 307 Wallace Ave., 916-2022. This variation on cold summer refreshment serves water ice, a summer staple in the owners’ hometown of Philadelphia. This version of flavored water uses a process that shaves ice until it is finely textured and creamy, to which is added a variety of sweet fruit flavors. $ L D f PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your hand-decorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ B POLLY FREEZE 5242 IN-62, Georgetown IN, 945-6911. The scenic drive out Highway 62 to this Southern Indiana institution on hot summer nights has been a tradition since 1952. Soft serve ice cream in any variation (cones, sundaes, shakes, floats), a wide range of burgers, dogs, sandwiches and sides. Worth the trip. $ L D f RAWNAISSANCE DESSERTS 1759 Bardstown Rd., 4243638. Owner Barbora Shneydman offers “guilt-free” dessert concoctions, a variety of chocolate and fruit truffles, and cakes made with raw vegan ingredients. Everything is free of sugar, grains, soy, dairy and eggs. $ L D

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/1/22 4:33 AM Page 73

SNOWHAT 3801 Poplar Level Rd., 742-6080. After a hot day at the zoo, stop by this New Orleans-style snoball shop for a cooling cone. Blueberry and strawberry flavors, and for the more adventurous: lavender lemonade, watermelon basil and jalapeño margarita. $ LD SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite donut by midmorning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little halfpints of chocolate milk. $ B SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. This long-time southern Indiana homestyle bakery is noted for baked goods just like your grandmother made. Its specialty: painted sugar cookies, with designs in white chocolate that change with the seasons and holidays. Also custom cookie and cake designs. $ B SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 899-2008. Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts. $$ f SWEETS BY MORGAN 533 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. 725-0080. Owner Morgan Coomer is dedicated to scratch baking and using real butter in her icings. Expect the usual sweet bakery items like cookies and cupcakes, along with clever specialties. $ B L D

with a full roster of coffee drinks, teas, cider and smoothies.$ B L f CULTIVATOR COFFEE 1415 E. Spring St., New Albany IN. Hot coffees and espresso here are sourced from Louisville’s Sunergos, while rotating guest roasters from across the country will provide pour-overs and iced coffees. $ B L D f DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ f

FANTE'S COFFEE 2501 Grinstead Dr., 454-0543. Owner Leo Fante has been in the coffee business most of his life, and has finally opened his own shop across the road from Cherokee Park. Fante imports his beans from small suppliers around the world, and roasts on premise. There is also a limited menu of sandwiches, soups and salads, and breakfast pastries. $ B L D pf

QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129, 802 E. Main St., 473-5379. Fans of this local purveyor of excellent coffee and provider of amenable working spaces can find their caffeine fix and wi-fi hotspot at both locations. $ pf

FIX COFFEEHOUSE AND BAKERY 10616 Meeting St., 409-5066. Settle in with your laptop at this Norton Commons coffeehouse serving coffees, teas, pastries (including gluten free and vegan versions), and breakfast and lunch sandwiches.$ B f

THE PEACH COBBLER FACTORY 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 496-4020, 801 W. Broadway. This dessert café makes a dozen or so fruit cobblers served with ice cream. Cinnamon rolls and banana puddings (tricked out with added flavors) are also on the menu. $ L D f

FRESCO TEA BAR 216 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 7257691, 223 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN. Bubble tea in many manifestations is the focus here, but stop in for a breakfast bagel or burrito, or cookies or fudge, or a wide selection of “wellness teas.” $ B L

WILLIAM’S BAKERY 1051 N. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN, 284-2867. $ B

FUN TEA 1613 Bardstown Rd., 749-1376. Tea in many variations – pure tea, milk tea, tea lattes, and Taiwanese bubble tea – can be found here, along with slushies, smoothies and bubble puff cake. $ L D f

BLACKBEARD ESPRESSO 718 W. Main St., 618-0004. Former food truck Blackbeard Espresso now has a Main St. storefront, taking over for Mrs. Potters. Look for coffee, hot and cold teas, milkshakes and smoothies, which the truck’s limited generator couldn’t handle. Baked goods include muffins and scones for those who need a carb lift with their caffeine. $ B L

HEINE BROTHERS’ COFFEE (16 locations) Heine Bros. continues their dominance in the local brewing scene. The stores are always friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches. $ f HIGHVIEW ICE CREAM & COFFEE 7525 Outer Loop, 618-3809. This suburban oasis offers coffee and specialty coffee drinks made from Sunergos beans and serves locally-made Bernoulli Small Batch Ice Cream. $ B L D f KOLKIN COFFEE 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 599-8410. This family run caffeine dispensary on the north side of New Albany serves coffee from Sunergos roastery in a cheerful, inviting environment. $

BREW & SIP COFFEE BAR 3800 Shepherdsville Rd., 618-3416. Here you will find an ambitious menu of exotic coffee drinks, teas and smoothies, and, for an ostensible coffee bar, an unusual food menu: not just pastries, but sandwiches, wings, and soups. $ B L

LOUISVILLE TEA COMPANY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 365-2516. Teas of all sorts, pastries and cookies make for a perfect morning snack the English call “elevenses.” $BL

CLEVER MOOSE CAFÉ 204 S. Hancock St. 805-7346. Situated in the co-working space of Lodgic, Clever Moose Café is a daytime coffee and tea house, with the goal of growing into a full-service restaurant featuring Asian street food. $$ B L f

MICKEY’S 624 Vincennes St., New Albany IN. An off-shoot of McQuixote Books and Coffee in Portland (owner Mickey Ball is a co-owner there), this used bookstore and coffee shop uses Good Folks Coffee, with teas from Elmwood Inn Fine Teas and baked goods from Viking Hat Bakery and Payne Street Bakehouse. $ B L D f

COFFEE CROSSING (1-888-465-6067) 140 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 410 Patrol Rd., Jeffersonville IN, 805 Talaina Pl., New Albany IN, 8105 Highway 311, Sellersburg, IN. All five locations please their Southern Indiana clientele

NTABA COFFEE HAUS 2407 Brownsboro Rd., 8715082., 1860 Mellwood Ave., 749-0918. It is always fun to see former chain restaurant buildings repurposed. The one-time Pizza Hut in Clifton on Brownsboro Road is

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

PLEASE & THANK YOU 800 E. Market St., 553-0113, 2341 Frankfort Ave., 432-8614, 9561 U.S. Hwy 42, 5449225. This small-batch bakery and coffeehouse offering quiches, panini, cookies, and a hip vibe. $ B L f PREGAME COFFEE 723 E. Market St., 645-0324. It’s a coffee shop. No, it’s a sports bar. Well, it is both. Stop in in the morning to talk about sports and order from a selection of coffee drinks, teas and beer and wine as well. Or come back during game time and watch your games in a coffee house environment. $ B L D p

FLEUR DE TEA 10704 Meeting St.742-9561. Choose from a selection of tea varieties, pastries and bubble tea at this uber-cute Norton Commons tea shop. $ B L D

BEAN 1138 Goss Ave., 785-4079. $ B L

PEARL STREET GAME & COFFEE HOUSE 405 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN, 648-1663. The name says it all: you can play your favorite boards games from the extensive library of such while enjoying coffee drinks, fresh fruit smoothies, lavender lattes, and sandwiches. $ B L D f

ENDLESS SUMMER PADDLE & COFFEE COMPANY 1301 Frankfort Ave., 203-1041. Located in the Waterside Apartments, this stand-up paddleboard livery also offers a coffee shop. Fresh juice, smoothies and snacks are available for paddlers, paddleboard students, and landlubbers. $ B L

THE NULU SUNDAE CLUB 823 E. Market St. (NuLu Marketplace), 785-6200. This new addition to NuLu’s culinary lineup offers piled high creative sundaes (“Candyland,” “S’more Brownie Please,” “Breakfast for Big Kids), ice cream by the scoop, cookies and brownies, coffee and hot chocolate. $$ L D f

ABOL CAFÉ 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 384-9430. The coffee served in this St. Matthews shop is from Ethiopia, as are many of the dishes on the brunch menu, which includes checheba (Ethiopian flatbread served with scrambled egg or honey) and quanta firfir, a dried beef and tomato stew. $ B Br L f

now a purveyor of African-sourced coffees and teas. A second loaction has been added in Mellwood Arts Center. $ B L

RED HOT ROASTERS 1399 Lexington Rd., 569-0000. Sondra Powell has closed her Butchertown Block sit down store and returned to purveying her excellent house-roasted coffee and refreshing coffee drinks from her drive-thru location in Irish Hill. $ f SAFAI COFFEE 1707 Bardstown Rd., 384-3555, 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market). This casual spot boasts the ambiance of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, house-made crepes, and coffee roasted at the Logan Street Market, where there is a second shop. $ B L f SCOOTER'S COFFEE 4703 Dixie Hwy., 260-8642, 11506 Shelbyville Rd., 9060 Dixie Hwy. This Omaha-based chain of drive-through coffee stops has plans to add five Louisville-area locations to its portfolio of over 300 outlets around the Midwest. Red Bull infusions, too, and pastries and breakfast items. $ B L D SISTER BEAN’S 5225 New Cut Rd., 364-0082. $ f STARBUCKS COFFEE (40+ locations) $ f STARLIGHT COFFEE CO. 3131 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 542-1522, 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1404, 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg IN. 748-7000. For almost twenty years this staple of the Southern Indiana coffee culture has been roasting and serving its custom-blends to happy Hoosiers. Owner Jim Book has recently expanded north to Sellersburg, where he will move the company’s roasting and wholesale operations. $ f STOMPING GROUNDS COFFEE CO. 10019 Dixie Hwy., 996-7473. This friendly, locally-owned coffee shop serves Sunergos roasted coffees in all sorts of popular versions, hot and cold. $ B L D SUNERGOS COFFEE 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820, 231 S. Fifth St., 5893222, 1647 Norris Pl., 919-9676. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee. $ THE COFFEE BOXX 1512 Portland Ave., 544-5787. This new Portland coffee bar fills the former McQuixote Books and Coffee space and offers all you’d expect: a range of popular coffee drinks, teas and some specialty items such as Vietnamese coffee and caramel cream cold brew. $ B L f THE COFFEE ZONE 9601 Whipps Mill Rd., 708-1522. North Carolinian transplant Craig Bishop has established a beachhead in Louisville. In addition to some good java, he features bakery items, such as pastries, and assorted sandwiches. $ f

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 73


MAP INDEX

Maps_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/1/22 4:50 AM Page 74

MAP # DIRECTION DOWNTOWN 1 downtown louisville NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel

74 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com

PAGE #

84 85 86 87

MAP # DIRECTION EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder

PAGE #

88 89 90 90

MAP # DIRECTION WEST 9 west louisville NORTH EAST 10 prospect SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek SOUTH WEST 12 shively – pleasure ridge

PAGE #

91

91 91 92


MAP # DIRECTION SOUTH 13 old louisville – airport INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs INDIANA 15 clarksville INDIANA 16 jeffersonville

MAP INDEX

Maps_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/1/22 4:50 AM Page 75

PAGE #

93 94 95 95

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 75


DOWNTOWN

MAP • 1

Maps_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/1/22 11:10 AM Page 76

76 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com


(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON

MAP • 2

Maps_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/1/22 4:50 AM Page 77

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 77


(NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS

MAP • 3

Maps_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/1/22 4:51 AM Page 78

78 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com


(SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL

MAP • 4

Maps_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/1/22 4:51 AM Page 79

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 79


(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN

MAP • 5

Maps_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/1/22 4:51 AM Page 80

80 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com


(EAST) HURSTBOURNE SOUTH – FOREST HILLS – JEFFERSONTOWN

MAP • 6

Maps_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/1/22 4:51 AM Page 81

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 81


MAP • 8

(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER

(NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT

MAP • 7

Maps_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/1/22 4:51 AM Page 82

82 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com


MAP • 11

(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK

(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT

MAP • 10

(WEST) WEST LOUISVILLE

MAP • 9

Maps_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/1/22 4:51 AM Page 83

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 83


(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE

MAP • 12

Maps_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/1/22 4:51 AM Page 84

84 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com


(SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT

MAP • 13

Maps_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/1/22 4:51 AM Page 85

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 85


(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS

MAP • 14

Maps_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/1/22 4:51 AM Page 86

86 Spring 2022 www.foodanddine.com


MAP • 16

(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

MAP • 15

Maps_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/1/22 4:51 AM Page 87

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2022 87


Maps_Spring22_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/1/22 4:51 AM Page 88


Cover Pages_Spring22_Ed.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 2/25/22 3:30 PM Page 3


Cover Pages_Spring22_Ed.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 2/25/22 3:30 PM Page 4


Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.