Fall 2019 (Vol. 65)

Cover Pages_Fall19_Ed.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 8/28/19 3:16 PM Page 1

Cover Pages_Fall19_Ed.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 8/28/19 3:16 PM Page 2

Contents_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 8/28/19 5:37 PM Page 1

Contents_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 8/28/19 9:16 PM Page 2

Contents_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 8/28/19 5:37 PM Page 3

Contents_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 8/28/19 10:02 PM Page 4

FALL 2019

PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MARTY ROSEN EXECUTIVE EDITOR RON MIKULAK WEB EDITOR ROGER BAYLOR BUSINESS MANAGER JON LARMEE PHOTOGRAPHERS DAN DRY ANDY HYSLOP COLUMNISTS JAY FORMAN RON MIKULAK SUSAN REIGLER FEATURE WRITERS MICHAEL L. JONES MARTY ROSEN ROGER BAYLOR ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD GRAPHIC DESIGN & PRODUCTION ED ROTHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE SALES MANAGER GINA R. WOLFE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES KAREN SHANE ANNETTE B. WHITE

Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 502.509.EATS (3287)

www.foodanddine.com socialmedia@foodanddine.com facebook.com/foodanddine @FoodAndDining

For Advertising information call 502.509.3287 (EATS) Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. *Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.

ON THE COVER

The Marinara pizza from Pizza Lupo (page 28). Photo by Dan Dry. 4

Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

Contents_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 8/28/19 5:37 PM Page 5

contents FA L L 2 0 1 9 | VO LU M E 6 5

RESTAURANT GUIDE

44 | Dining Guide 82 | Maps

Our comprehensive listing of over 1,400 area restaurants, complete with reviews.

(RESTAURANT LOCATOR)

Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps — a unique resource you can’t find elsewhere.

FEATURES

16 | 28 |

PROFILE | Bourbons Bistro Fifteen years ago, Bourbons Bistro was the inspiration for the Urban Bourbon Trail. But the history of Bourbon flows all through the Metro area.

Roger Baylor traces that history and talks with founder Jason Brauner about this seminal restaurant.

PROFILE | Pizza Lupo Max Balliet has been studying and reflecting on the art of Neapolitan pizza and Italian cuisine since he was a teen. He talked with Marty Rosen about how he keeps his balance on the bitter edge of flavor.

PROFILE | The Manhattan Project | 38

It’s a family affair at this gastropub-sportsbar. Erick Strnatka leads the way, but he has plenty of help – and advice! Michael L. Jones talks to him and his father Kevin about the challenges and joys.

COLUMNS Starters

8| 12 |

COMINGS & GOINGS A summary of changes in the local restaurant scene — with openings, closings, changes and more.

HUMOR | Stupid Food Trends Are you a foodie who is always on the lookout for the newest trends?

So is resident food humorist Jay Forman. Sometimes he finds the good stuff. But not always…

Liquids BOURBON | Renaissance on Whiskey Row | 14

What’s old is new again. The resurgence of Louisville’s Downtown Whiskey Row as a mandatory travel destination for Bourbon tourists has been a marvel.

But it’s deeply rooted in the city’s history. Susan Reigler brings it all together.

22 | 34 |

Food EASY ENTERTAINING | Tailgating Tim and Lori Laird brought together three chefs with vastly different backgrounds in a quest for new tailgating inspirations. Check out the results!

COOKING WITH RON | Apples — Feasts Falling From the Tree When you bite into an apple, you’re tasting history, culture, and science.

Ron Mikulak takes you deep into the lore and science of apples – and offers some great recipes.

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019

5

Comings & Goings_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 4:19 PM Page 6

Comings & Goings_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 4:20 PM Page 7

Comings & Goings_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 4:20 PM Page 8

starters | comings & goings

comings & goings

BY RON MIKULAK

While you were lounging on a houseboat on a lake, or whiling away an evening sipping rosé at a sidewalk table, or otherwise lazing the summer away, Louisville restaurateurs have been working hard to expand dining choices for us all. Since the last issue, we count 31 new restaurants offering a wide variety of dining choices. Add to that number seven additional locations for existing restaurants. Only ten restaurants have ceased operation (though among those are several notable popular dining spots), and five other multi-location restaurants have closed one or more outlets, but continue to serve at others. These numbers – a total of 38 new tables, against a loss of 15 – would seem to indicate that the local restaurant scene is still robust.

NEW TABLES

Adding to that robustness in a number of ways is the Logan Street Market, 1001 Logan St. in Shelby Park, which, as we go to press, is looking forward to a mid-to-late September opening. In addition to vendors selling fresh produce and meats, packaged grab-and-go ready-to-eat items, or frozen heat-and-serve takeaway food, nine cafés, bistros, bakeries or coffee houses will also share the renovated warehouse space near the Hope Mills artists’ studios and across the street from Tim Faulkner Gallery.

Susan Hershberg moved her Wiltshire wholesale baking production to the Market building earlier this year. Her retail space there, Wiltshire at Logan Street Market, will be open early for grab-and-go breakfast items, have bread, sandwiches and pastries available all day, and offer take-away-for-dinner specials for homebound commuters. Alchemy Restaurant will specialize in the cuisine of Venezuela. Bramble is a Southern and soul food restaurant. Cold Smoke Bagels will offer bagels, bagel and lox sandwiches, several varieties of herring and other Jewish dairy items. Crème de Lou is an ice cream dispenser. Harvey’s Cheeses will stock a variety of cheeses and make exotic (or regular) grilled cheese sandwiches. Foko will serve Mexican dishes.

Ziba’s Bistro specializes in West African and Afro-fusion cuisine.

And Safai Coffee will have a coffee bar; Mike and Medora Safai own and are developing the Market, and have already moved their roasting operation there.

There is a lot happening elsewhere in the area too. Hearth on 8 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

Mellwood, 1765 Mellwood Ave., is a new American-style bistro in the building that was Bistro 1860; the owners, Jason and Aenith Sananikone McCollum, also operate Chik’n & Mi. The colorful stained glass windows of a former Lutheran church now illuminate the dining room of Noche Mexican BBQ at 1838 Bardstown Rd. Union 15, a pizza place, is soon to join El Taco Luchador in the renovated Colonial Gardens, 5205 New Cut Rd. Dallas McGarity (The Fat Lamb, Portage House) is now serving dinners Thursday to Saturday, and weekend brunch, at Alex&nder, the rooftop bar at Copper & Kings Distillery, 1121 E. Washington St. In Jeffersonville, Goodwood Brewhouse and Live Room serves specialty beers and sponsors live entertainment above Cox’s Hot Chicken, 134 Spring St. And at its main brewing facility at 636 E. Main St. downtown, Goodwood has opened Galley, serving chili, burgers, wings and sandwiches. Across the street, at 637 E. Main, St. Louis-based International Tap House is pouring hundreds of craft beers, ciders and some wines.

Several new ethnic restaurants are joining the fray. Louisville has longed for another opportunity to sample Filipino cuisine ever since Sari-Sari closed its doors. Now, Lola’s Kitchen, 2240 Frankfort Ave. is giving diners the opportunity to enjoy chicken adobo, and beef Kaldareta again. At Cuba Y Mas, 5700 Outer Loop, you can find Cuban cuisine and dishes from elsewhere in Latin America. Falafel Oasis serves the downtown lunch and snack crowd at 226 W. Broadway. And Middletowners now have Continued on page 10

Comings & Goings_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 4:20 PM Page 9

Comings & Goings_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 4:20 PM Page 10

starters | comings & goings another Mexican choice, Las Margaritas Mexican Cuisine, 12220 Shelbyville Rd. The food and dining scene in New Albany continues to develop. This issue we are listing four new restaurants across the river. The Standard Plate and Pour, 207 E. Main St., is described by the owners as “a pub with elevated food;” Boomtown, 110 E. Main St., is serving affordable, familiar family fare – burgers, steaks, pork chops; Yamato Japanese Steakhouse, 345 New Albany Plaza, offers ramen bowls, bento boxes, sushi and hibachi grilled dishes.

Taylor’s Cajun Meat Co., 3306 Plaza Dr., has been open since last year, but recently came to our attention. This brightly lit spot offers Cajun sausage, gator meat, crawfish, Cajun-style stuffed everything and the makings to prepare your own crawfish boil. If you get there early enough you can chow down on one of their daily lunch plate specials, which sell out quickly.

A number of other new places are scattered hither and yon. Moya’s American Kitchen serves Cajun/Creole dishes, pasta and seafood at 10000 Linn Station Rd. Shahar Café replaces Anselmo’s at 1511 Bardstown Rd., with an eclectic menu shift toward things like kabobs, Russian piroshki, samosas and poutine. Six Forks Burger Company, 1270 S. Preston St., is familyowned and family-focused, with its familiar burger and fries menu.

Downtown finally gets a reasonably priced grocery store with Superior Market & Deli, 307 W. Broadway. It also sells sandwiches and pizza, and boasts a salad bar. At Mid City Mall, 1250 Bardstown Rd., Ramen House replaces Bazo’s on the Baxter Cinema side; the owners ran Ramen Inochi on Highland Avenue. The menu offers rice bowls, steamed buns and gyoza, in addition to the titular noodle dish.

The Endless Summer Paddle and Coffee Company, 1301 Frankfort Ave., in the Waterside Apartments, supplies java, juices, smoothies and snacks to river paddlers and landlubbers. 78 Coffee Shop is another addition to the Falls City Brewing Company development at 907 E. Liberty St. Businesses expanding their presence in 10 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

the metro area include two additions to the El Taco Luchador family, in the South End at Colonial Gardens, 5205 New Cut Rd., and in J’town at 9204 Taylorsville Rd. Mac’s Dough House has expanded by joining with Mile Wide Brewing, 636 Barret Ave., building a custom pizza oven beneath the silos. Salads and appetizers will be available too.

Dasha Barbours is now offering its appealing soul food-inspired dishes at a second location, 1300 Muhammad Ali Blvd. Cold Stone Creamery opened its third store at 1013 Jeffersonville Commons Drive in J’ville, and Which Wich opened its fourth at 3531 Grant Line Rd. in New Albany. Derby City Pizza is looking to have its fourth outlet, which will be carry-out only, open at 2331 Brownsboro Rd. by the end of September.

CLOSINGS

Not many restaurants have succumbed recently, but among those that have are several that made a unique mark on the restaurant scene, and gained many fans.

Rivue is spinning no more. The fine dining revolving restaurant atop the original Galt House tower, 140 N. Fourth St., has closed for extensive remodeling. Waylon’s Feed & Firewater, 3939 Shelbyville Rd., closed as part of a transaction that will see the Oechsli Avenue Havana Rumba transitioning from its home to this high-visibility location. (As noted later, the St. Matthews Havana Rumba is temporarily shuttered because of structural problems affecting four popular Oechsli Avenue eateries).

In late 2014 Chef Shawn Ward left his long-time post at Jack Fry’s to partner with the late chef and restaurateur Dean Corbett and front-of-house manager Nirmesh Agrawal in developing the former The Brewery site into an upscale dining spot. For almost five years Ward 426, 426 Baxter Ave., was a classy place to eat, drink and talk in comfortable surroundings. Now, Ward and his partners have closed the restaurant.

Out at Norton Commons, Citizen 7, 10715 Meeting St., has ceased serving. The restaurant offered South American street food such as tacos, tortas, burritos and var-

Comings & Goings_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 4:20 PM Page 11

comings & goings | starters ious appetizers. It was developed by Paul Blackburn and Alex Tinker of the Doers Group, who also operate Couvillion in Germantown.

Chef Madeleine Dee lost her lease on Fond, her charming 12seat destination dining spot at 2520 Frankfort Ave. Though her restaurant has closed, Dee will sell her line of Fond Originals prepared foods, teach cooking classes, and produce her own cooking and entertaining TV show at Logan Street Market.

Morels Café, 619 Baxter Ave., which had developed a loyal following for its vegan interpretations of meat dishes – “chicken” salad, “roast beef ” sandwiches – has closed its Baxter Avenue location. In a Facebook post, owner Stanley Chase indicated that he’s focusing on his other initiative, the Louisville Vegan Jerky Company, but will continue his catering operations. At press time, Morels announced that it will have a presence at the Logan Street Market and was planning some pop-up meals at local venues. Follow F&D on the web and on social media to keep up to date on future developments. Ngon Apétit, 1991 Brownsboro Rd., also lost the lease and has closed, as has Ramen Inochi, 2009 Highland Ave. Three bar and grills have closed: JB’s Pub, 307 Central Ave.; The Planet Bar, 2232 Bardstown Rd.; and Wick’s Pizza at 12717 Shelbyville Rd. Chef Griffin Paulin has closed the New Albany branch of Mirin,

at 145 East Main St., but continues to serve his inspired take on Asian street food at his original Clifton location.

O’Charley’s is down to five area outlets with the closing of the Clarksville location, 1440 Vaxter St. And two more Steak and Shakes have closed as part of a corporate reshuffling. The S & S at 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy. and at 10721 Fisher Park Dr. are grilling no longer.

NEWS & NOTES

Four popular restaurants in Saint Matthews’ Oechsli Avenue dining strip have temporarily closed after the roof to the building that houses them collapsed. F&D regrets the disruption of their businesses, and wishes the proprietors and the workers the best as the long process of repairs goes on. The restaurants affected are Havana Rumba at 4115 Oechsli Ave., Del Frisco’s at 4107, Charim Korean at 4123 and Half Peach Café at 4121.

We are de-listing River City Winery, 321 Pearl St., New Albany, from the guide as the business is closed temporarily, with the goal of reopening (and our re-listing them) in the near future.

And finally, we apologize to Jason’s Deli for our noting last issue the closing of the wrong location. Jason’s Deli at 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy has closed, not the outlet at 410 N. Hurstbourne, as we asserted. The North Hurstbourne store is open and serving. F&D

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 11

Humor_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 6:35 PM Page 12

starters | humor

Stupid Food Trends

BY JAY FORMAN

his is the season when those lazy, hazy, crazy days

T

of summer give way to the crisp, cool, clarity of fall.

Swimsuits and summer romances are replaced by

letter sweaters and “it’s complicated” updates on social media. Likewise, the culinary trends that were so fresh and promising earlier in the year start drooping like a garden full of ripe tomatoes after an onslaught of squirrels.

In recent years, we’ve seen some quite sensible ideas of course. You have to figure that at a thousand bucks a pop those Gold-Plated Chicken Wings that showed up last year on a New York City menu probably have legs… But there was also some stuff that was just plain stupid.

Here are some examples.

I really want to hustle this one out the door. It all started innocently enough.Like many other foolish food lovers, I bought the Noma Guide to Fermentation early this year. But I was immediately frightened when I saw what was inside. The book addresses the science behind fermented foods – sauerkraut, kim chi and kombucha to name a few – which is a worthy enough subject. But this is also a cookbook that crosses some invisible, unspoken barrier between the worlds. It is basically the culinary equivalent of the Necronomicon or the Upside Down in Stranger Things. Simply put, this is cooking that, if you screw it up, can kill. It is one thing to put forward a recipe for cupcakes. It is another to put forward a recipe for washed-rind turnips that gently rot until they achieve the texture of Camembert cheese and are served to unsuspecting diners on a $250 tasting menu. And, should you venture the opinion that maybe this isn’t such a hot idea, you will be food-shamed for your closemindedness. No, this is a cookbook that leads to cults, alchemy and dark magic. Who knew pickles could be so fraught with consequence? Keep fermentation where it belongs – in adult beverages – and out of the hands of curious dilettantes.

Fermented Foods

The Emperor wears no clothes, people! You know what a naked cake is? A cake that hasn’t been finished. What would you say if your contractor tried to sell you on this new concept called “Open Walls,” framed out 2x4s without sheetrock with pulled wire dangling from conduit and empty junction boxes? You’d tell him to finish the damn job. Well you fancy pastry peoples – finish the damn cake. It’s one thing to slice into a cake and admire the contrast between its layers. It is another to sell a

Naked Cakes

12 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

cake with all of its berries just hanging out. Have a sense of decency.

Where were you when you saw your first donut wall, where donuts hung on pegboard like so many delicious, edible impulse buys at Dollar General? Most likely it was a wedding or perhaps a corporate function that sought to inject a little wackiness with a trendy catering upsell. Welcome to the Donut Wall, that Instagram-able grid of fried dough and glazes that captivates and charms. I admit they look enticing when in full bloom. But an hour into the reception when the flower girls and drunken bridesmaids have been at them and the edges are soggy and gnawed upon, they are far less appealing. Also, it is redundant with the cake. Unless of course the bride and groom are serving a pizza bouquet instead, which is a whole other story…

Donut Walls

This isn’t exactly a trend, as insects legitimately make up a substantial source of protein across many cultures worldwide. But stop trying to sell this to Americans – they are not buying. Despite the hypocrisy of perception – take a close look at your next crab or lobster before you dive in and crack it apart – Americans are not taking the bait. Literally. Let’s leave insects at the fringes – for die-hard yakitori fans and as fodder for tales of daring food experiences while abroad. After all, if everybody ate dried crickets instead of popcorn at your local AMC Theater, what would be the point of bragging about it? All the cachet would evaporate. And as for the planet-friendly source of protein argument, we can already get our plant-based protein powders in convenient buckets at health food stores. Try again in five years or after the apocalypse, whichever comes first.

Insects

Humor_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 6:35 PM Page 13

humor | starters A friend told a joke: How do you know if someone is on a keto diet? The answer: Don’t worry, they’ll let you know. Every few years a newish iteration of the low-carb approach rears its head across chat rooms and asterisked menu items nationwide. Named for ketosis – that magical moment where your body shifts from burning carbs to protein and rewards you with terrible breath – Keto is the next fad up to bat in the lineup. And while there might be a lot to recommend this approach – steaks, butter, bacon and omelets come to mind – nobody wants to hear about it. So keep it to yourself and while you are at it keep some Crest Fresh Strips handy.

Keto

It’s this year’s miracle cure, appearing in everything from lattes to topical creams. It’s cannabidiol, a non-intoxicating extract from the cannabis plant that is confounding law enforcement and regulatory agencies nationwide. But can it really cure everything from Irritable Bowel Syndrome to racism like the banner ads would have you believe? Probably not. And, frankly, I’d rather have the edibles with the THC. So anyone going out to Colorado feel free to mail me some gummies.

CBD Everything

I love Korean food. But I don’t know how to cook it. Most food writers would never admit this, but many of them are prisoners of their ego. Not me. I’m the humblest person you will ever meet. So when I go to one of these new Korean BBQ spots I get a little nervous. How much meat and what kinds do I order? Do I just pig out on these little plates of pickled things of or do I pair them with certain proteins? Am I right to fear cross-contamination by hoisting raw chicken over a flight of dipping sauces? Why are scrambled eggs collecting in this grill trench? These are a few of the things I want to know. I actually don’t want this trend to end, but I do need a little help.

So bid farewell to these fads. It was not so great knowing you. My business took a huge loss this year so I’m glad to see you go. Let’s look forward to a future that is geared-up for sci-fi dystopic culinary trends. I don’t know where the apocalypse will begin, but the smart money is on hybrid medicinal/cannabis edibles delivered by drones ordered through the Dark Web. Gummy multivitamins are for wusses.The future is now, thanks to science. F&D

Korean BB-Confusion

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 13

Bourbon_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 5:13 PM Page 14

liquids | spirits

enaissance on

BY SUSAN REIGLER

In the decades between the end of the Civil War and the beginning of Prohibition, Louisville’s Main Street was the epicenter of the American whiskey trade. Thanks to its proximity to the Ohio River, Louisville was the major port for shipping bourbon and rye throughout the United States (and beyond).

More than 70 businesses along Main were associated with the industry.

These included warehouses, publishers of trade journals, steamboat (and later, railroad) companies, bottle label printers, metal workers, dry goods stores, banks, saloons, hotels, and restaurants.

Virtually every distiller or wholesaler in Kentucky had offices on Main Street, also known as Whiskey Row. BrownForman’s master distiller, Chris Morris, has been widely quoted as saying Main Street was “the Wall Street of bourbon.”

Across from Louisville Slugger Field, in the refurbished Vermont American Building, Angel’s Envy Distillery anchors the East end of Louisville’s fifteen-block-long Bourbon District.

14 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

Whiskey Row How a once-rundown urban corridor has become a bourbon destination The scores of businesses along Whiskey Row were housed within notable architecture. As it still does today, Main Street featured the largest collection of Victorian era cast-iron facades in the United States outside of Manhattan’s SoHo district. The red sandstone Columbia Building, at Fourth Street and West Main, was completed in 1890 and housed numerous whiskey related offices. At 10 stories, it was Louisville’s tallest building, the same height as Chicago’s Home Insurance Building, considered the world’s first skyscraper.

(The Columbia was demolished in 1966, but one of its sandstone blocks sits on the corner where the building stood.) German immigrant Frederick Stitzel had patented a new warehouse design, consisting of an interior lattice of ricks, that kept barrels from crushing those they sat atop and allowed air to circulate around each one for more even aging. It’s still the industry’s standard.

Then … January 17, 1920.

Prohibition devastated the once-thriving heart of Louisville commerce. The offices were shuttered. There was no need for all the support services for an industry that was now extinct, other than for the few select

companies that could still sell “medicinal whiskey.”

The cast iron-fronted buildings gradually fell into disrepair or housed down-at-heel businesses such as military surplus. If you were a penurious artist, you could rent a loft at a rock bottom rate.

Heat was not necessarily a feature of the property. The sidewalks, once filled with pedestrians, were virtually empty.

Very gradually, beginning in the late 1970s and early 1980s, that began to change. The sturdily constructed historic buildings were restored to house new museums and firms looking for downtown homes. Actors Theatre of Louisville became an anchor. The Kentucky Center for the Arts brought new life to the area. And arts groups and non-profits opened offices in the district.

Fast forward to 2013 and Museum Row - with the Kentucky Science Center, Louisville Slugger Museum, and Muhammad Ali Center - begins its transformation into the new Whiskey Row with the opening of the Evan Williams Bourbon Experience at 528 West Main.

Today, Whiskey Row has grown and matured into Louisville’s Bourbon District. Fifteen blocks long, it starts west of downtown, at 10th Street, home of Kentucky Peerless Distilling (which occupies a former tobacco warehouse) and runs east to Jackson Street, where Angel’s Envy Distillery is located in the refurbished Vermont American Building (across from Slugger Field).

Yellow, orange, and black signs located along most of the blocks of West and East Main that comprise

Bourbon_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 5:13 PM Page 15

spirits | liquids the district, note which buildings or sites were associated with particular whiskey-related businesses. An attentive visitor can soak up quite a lot of bourbon history while walking this stretch of Main.

One important fact: There were no actual working distilleries on Main Street during the pre-Prohibition era.

Today there are four. In addition to Peerless and Angel's Envy, Old Forester has a working distillery in the 100 block of East Main (in buildings that contained the company's offices in the early twentieth century).

And Michter's Micro-Distillery is located in the historic Fort Nelson Building at the corner of West Main and 8th Street (the firm's main distillery is in Shively, as is Old Forester's).

All four of these are open to the public and feature tours and tastings.

Peerless has become famed for its rye whiskey and has just released its first bourbon. Michter’s features the pot still from the former Michter’s Distillery in Pennsylvania and has an elegant cocktail lounge overlooking Main Street. Evan Williams has an eye-catching fountain that looks like a giant bourbon bottle pouring spirit into a glass, a micro-distillery, one floor that recreates nineteenth century Whiskey Row, and a Speakeasy. Angel’s Envy’s creative reuse of the century-old manufacturing building includes an elegant event space and bar. It’s custom-made Vendome Copper & Brass Works distilling equipment features a spirit safe in the shape of its whiskey bottles. And within Old Forester there’s a mini-cooperage where visitors can see the barrel making process up close, as well as a towering column still, a warehouse space, and, yes, a cocktail bar.

The hotels, saloons (we now, of course, call them bars.), and restaurants are back. Several are part of Louisville’s Urban Bourbon Trail, members of which must have extensive bourbon lists and, if they are restaurants, feature some dishes using bourbon as an ingredient. Proof on Main is located

inside the 21C Museum Hotel and Corner Restaurant & Bar is in the Aloft Hotel.

Other bourbon-centric bars and restaurants along Main (or just off it on a side street) are Doc Crow’s Southern Smokehouse & Raw Bar, Down One Bourbon Bar, Merle’s Whiskey Kitchen, Patrick O’Shea’s, Sidebar at Whiskey Row, and the Troll Pub Under the Bridge. These too, are part of the Urban Bourbon Trail.

One notable bar with a creative cocktail list, but not a member of the Trail, is the Hell or High Water speakeasy on East Washington Street. It is literally under Whiskey Row, since patrons enter a small room and are escorted downstairs to a warren of 1920s-decorated rooms. It’s below the block on the south side of which is the Old Forester Distillery.

A perfect way to get oriented to the bourbon history and the attractions of Whiskey Row (and the rest of Bourbon Country) is to start at the Frazier Kentucky History Museum, 829 West Main. It is the official Bourbon Trail starting point. Almost an entire floor is given over to bourbon history, including the effects of Prohibition and a room with an interactive touchscreen table with entries on people, places, and events important to the industry. Another room has a display with bottles of every brand of bourbon currently made in Kentucky. Even better, many of these can be purchased in the ground floor shop, as well as some collectable (and pricey!) historic bottles.

Quite conveniently, Art Eatables, a shop specializing in bourbon-infused artisan chocolate, is located next door to the Frazier. After all, what better combination is there than bourbon and chocolate?

For much more information about Whiskey Row attractions (and beyond), visit Louisville Tourism’s web site, www.bourboncountry.com/ plan-your-visit/bourbon-country-regions/louisville. F&D

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 15

Bourbons Bistro_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 6:51 PM Page 16

profile | bourbons bistro

16 Fall 2019Â www.foodanddine.com

Bourbons Bistro_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 6:51 PM Page 17

“Irish Hill is the Louisville neighborhood you find when you’re lost.”

It’s an old-time Louisville saying about a relatively small, richly historic patch of ground shoehorned between Baxter Avenue, Lexington Road and Beargrass Creek, and Eastern and Cave Hill Cemeteries.

On Irish Hill’s northeast side is Breslin Park, formerly the site of Louisville’s fortress-like City Workhouse, where minor offenders were incarcerated while they paid their debt to society through menial labor. Across Payne Street is a collection of imposing old brick warehouses known since the 1980s as Distillery Commons, used nowadays as offices, businesses and creative spaces.

Once this was National Distillers and Chemical Company's Kentucky Distillery Warehouse & Bottling Plant. The mighty National Distillers owned some of the country’s most venerable bourbon brands, like Old Grand Dad, Old Crow, and Old Taylor, and by the 1940s it controlled 70% of the American market for bourbon and rye.

At its peak National Distillers had a work force of 1,400, most of whom lived within walking distance.

Numerous families depended on these jobs, but consumer trends were unkind to the whiskey market and the plant closed in 1975.

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 17

Bourbons Bistro_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 6:51 PM Page 18

profile | bourbons bistro “Headliners (a music venue) used to be the lunch community. It seemed a revival was in the offing, and hall for National Distillers, which was just down the they were about to lead it. street from us. I call it the UPS of the time; it was the arrels, Bottles, and a Binder economic engine for our neighborhood and others Full of Tasting Notes nearby, like Phoenix Hill and Clifton, even Butchertown.”

A vitally important distinction about Bourbons Bistro Meet Jason Brauner, who grew up in Irish Hill and is that “Bourbons” is a plural noun, not “Bourbon’s” in was in knee pants when National Distillers was shutthe possessive sense. Bourbon does not own the tered. Brauner’s great aunt and great uncle both Bistro; Brauner and Morrison do, and as Brauner worked there. So did business partner John reminds us, Bourbons Bistro is about “all the bourbons” — with the noun “Bistro” purposefully Morrison’s father and grandmother. attached, because what’s a mellow glass of pure Brauner and Morrison opened Bourbons Bistro in 2005. Call it cosmic, karmic or just a well-turned busiKentucky liquid heritage without fried green tomaExecutive Chef ness plan, but their Frankfort Avenue refuge became toes, a Kentucky-raised filet and bread pudding?

Jereme McFarland an instant classic, primarily because Brauner and Bourbons Bistro turns 15 years of age in April 2020, Morrison scanned the cluttered landscape of gimmicky bar and restau- and yet it seems older, as though 130-odd brands of bourbon have rant concepts, settling on a unifying principle so incredibly obvious as to always reposed there, hushed and respectful, a veritable corn-mash phabe invisible: Bourbon. lanx massed behind the custom-designed bar, crafted from barrel staves Remembers Morrison, “When we were still in construction I asked and hoops by Brauner’s father.

Jason, ‘what bourbons are we going to carry?’ and he said ‘all of them.’ ” Were any of these bourbons on hand in 1895, when the bistro space “We were out to educate the world about bourbon,” Brauner adds. “I was known as Spect’s Saloon? A working man’s staple in the Clifton had a restaurant background (as the former owner of Clifton’s Pizza), and neighborhood, Spect’s was long gone in 2005, when the new business John had an accounting background.” Morrison didn’t stay in the office. “It partners began cleaning up after the building’s most recent occupants. was all hands on deck,” he laughs. “I got a crash course in the restaurant “This had been a bar called Rascal’s,” notes Morrison, “and it was in business in 2005.” pretty bad shape.” The subsequent metamorphosis yielded a barroom Their timing proved astute. If bourbon was Kentucky’s legacy spirit — and dining area largely unchanged since, with ample exposed brick, dark the state’s curriculum vitae internationally and the onetime backbone of ceilings, a beige and brown color scheme, subdued lighting and ample enclaves like Irish Hill — then wasn’t it about time someone made a visual flourishes of bourbon history, ranging from mounted bourbon barbistro all about the bourbon? rel heads to photographic reproductions sourced from the University of Perhaps Brauner and Morrison were fated to restore the soul of the Louisville’s Ekstrom Library. bourbon culture Irish Hill lost so long ago – the spirit, the history and the Characterized by Brauner as “four star food in a three-and-a-half star

B

Mussels served in a white wine and butter sauce with toasted baguette

18

Bourbons Bistro_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 6:51 PM Page 19

joint,” the Bourbons Bistro kitchen would be chef-driven and rooted in the cooking of the South. “We wanted to be a casual place, more like dining twice a week than once a month for our customers.”

Prior to assembling the bourbon list, Brauner and Morrison put themselves back into the classroom with Michael Veatch, who is Bourbon Historian at Louisville’s Filson Historical Society. Veatch became a friend and supporter, gradually assembling the bistro’s legendary three-ring binder of bourbon tasting notes.

“I first met (Brauner and Morrison) at a class I was teaching as part of an adult education program at Bellarmine University,” writes Veatch in a web post.

“Bourbons Bistro was the first Bourbon-themed, white table cloth restaurant to open in Louisville, and has been the inspiration for many of the Bourbonthemed restaurants that have opened since.”

Finally it was time to stock the bourbon. By Brauner’s preliminary reckoning there had been at least 200 distilleries in Kentucky before Prohibition, with ten major ones remaining in 2005. He sought to carry at least one of each brand produced by them: “I’d hate for somebody to say their uncle used to work for J.W. Dant, and they’d come into a place called ‘Bourbons’ and think, what, you don’t have Dant?”

Brauner also pulled representative examples from bourbon’s amazing, varied matrix of differing mash bills, proofs, ages and cooperage positions, all the while searching for those brands he calls “sleepers,” or the undervalued brands “hiding in plain sight.”

Two early examples were Elmer T. Lee and Ancient Age, although as the years passed both distillers and consumers became savvier. For Brauner this meant forever scouting the next sleeper, and more recently, developing relationships with the new generation of “craft” distillers, like New Riff and Wilderness Trail, O.Z. Tyler and Castle & Key. The list of “firsts” at Bourbons Bistro’s is far too long to itemize, but its pioneering barrel program deserves prominent mention. Picking a barrel from the rickhouse has become fairly commonplace (a barrel yields 200 bottles), but when Bourbons Bistro plucked its own barrel of Woodford Reserve soon after opening, it was the first time a Louisville on-premise establishment had ever done it.

Numerous others followed. “We’ve done 24 barrels with Four Roses,” Brauner says. “The next one will be the 25th, and that’s a milestone. We’ve done a barrel program from the start, and we’ll try to do it with these younger (craft) guys and keep the relationships going.” (top) Bourbons Bistro bar has arguably one of the best curated collections of bourbons in the city, currently numbering over 130. (center and right) Views of the dining room.

19

Bourbons Bistro_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 6:51 PM Page 20

profile | bourbons bistro

Southern Bistro Cuisine

- Simple and Classic

Executive Chef Jereme McFarland was born and raised in Louisville’s South End. As a teen he helped his mother with her catering business, then joined the Marine Corps, becoming a full-time cook. Military service took him around the world and back to Louisville for culinary studies at Sullivan University, followed by a succession of corporate jobs before joining Bourbons Bistro as a line cook.

Since taking the lead position in 2016, McFarland has built on what he inherited from his predecessors. “I take what I’ve learned and I’ve added my own spin,” he says. “We do mostly Southern cuisine, dress it up (but) keep it simple and classic — bread pudding, layer cakes, shrimp & grits, our pork chop. It’s a little French and a little bit Asian, really a little bit of everything.”

Incorporating bourbon into every dish actually isn’t among McFarland’s kitchen mandates, although whiskey works well in some desserts and sauces, like the veal demi-glace. He advocates a light touch, typically using brands like Maker’s Mark, Old Forester and Four Roses (yellow label) because they possess consistent flavor profiles from recipe to recipe.

For example, Four Roses pairs with peaches in the glaze for McFarland’s “light and summery” seasonal variation on the popular Bourbon’s Peach Pork Chop. He adds “a tiny bit of horseradish to make it more like chutney,” and first brining the chop for at least 12 hours.

McFarland’s father and grandfather specialized in homegrown tomatoes. “When I was a kid I’d be running around eating their tomatoes like apples. I loved them and still do,” he explains. Now they’re the inspiration for Willie’s Tomato Toast, a popular appetizer.

When the kitchen’s Fried Green Tomatoes appetizer seemed “too cakey,” McFarland relied on a line cook’s suggestion to solve the breading riddle by using two layers, first a thin coating of rice flour, then a dredging in seasoned flour and blue corn meal just before frying.

The Waygu Burger is a staple. "I always use Black Hawk Farms beef from Paducah,” says McFarland. “They’ve been good to us and we like to use Kentucky Proud products. It’s a simple, classic burger.” McFarland hesitates to modify his Filet of Beef — “if it’s not broke, don’t fix it” — but to lighten the cut for warmer weather he prepares a citrus beurre blanc (lemon, orange and white wine), further enhancing a beautiful shrimp skewer.

McFarland gives full credit to sous chef Justin Shewell for the Savannah Smile Martini dessert. Shewell doubles as pastry chef and created the recipe for a Girl Scouts of the USA cooking competition — which he won. “It’s Southern and it reminds me of my mom’s lemon meringue pie,” says McFarland, who adds that sadly, Savannah Smiles have been discontinued. (from top) Waygu burger with porter cheddar and a truffle mayo; pan-seared pork chop with a Four Roses and peach compote; Chilean salmon rested on caramelized heirloom cauliflower and pickled Fresno chilis 20

Bourbons Bistro_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 6:52 PM Page 21

“We’re lucky to have gotten two of the last three cases of them.

We’ll run this dish until we run out of cookies.”

For McFarland, it’s all about teamwork: “This is what I’ve always wanted to do. It’s not a glamorous life; certain aspects are amazing, but nothing I do can be done without my staff — Margot, Jason and John, the kitchen staff, my sous chefs, the bartenders — it takes the whole team to really make this thing work, and if we lose one piece of the puzzle, we run into serious problems really quickly.

“I totally appreciate everything the staff does from top to the bottom.”

An Ironclad Commitment to

Explaining Why Bourbon Matters

“John and Jason have always told me there’s no bad whiskey, only better whiskey.”

That’s Margot McMillen, who has been working at Bourbons Bistro since inception, currently serving as front-of-the-house manager. Staff retention is good, and McMillen is clear about the value of employee education when it comes to a bar serving 130 bourbons.

“My favorite social media reviews are the ones that say, ‘the bartender and servers were knowledgeable and well-educated about the products they were serving.’ ” McMillen believes one secret to the longevity of Bourbons Bistro is an ironclad commitment to explaining why bourbon matters.

“That’s what we always set out to do,” says Brauner. “We did our staff trainings; we’re here to educate.” If bourbon is Brauner’s single favorite topic, teaching is a close second.

Morrison adds, “We ask customers what they normally drink, what they’re used to; if they’re from out of town, maybe they’d like something they can’t get where they live. (For) beginners, you have to walk them through it. You have to build up that palate.”

Universal bourbon education obviously is the common denominator at Bourbons Bistro, predating bourbonism, a term cleverly coined by three-term mayor Greg Fischer during his first campaign in 2009. Fischer defines bourbonism as the sum total of bourbon, hospitality, distillery experiences and local food, as exemplified by Louisville’s Urban Bourbon Trail.

The trail was conceived by Stacey Yates at the Louisville Convention & Visitors Bureau, which was looking for a marketing promotion to position the city as a bourbon destination in its own right given the increasing popularity of the Kentucky Distillers’ Association’s trademark Kentucky Bourbon Trail.

In 2008 Yates was jogging in Crescent Hill when the epiphany hit; an ad agency’s use of the euphonious phrase “urban bourbon” set her to thinking about Bourbons Bistro, and out came “urban bourbon trail,” a phrase linking tasting and culinary experiences.

“Had Bourbons Bistro not existed, the Urban Bourbon Trail wouldn’t have existed, either,” says Yates, “because I don’t think the other pieces would have come together without this quintessential prototype of a bourbon bar.”

Few establishments are regarded as “quintessential” a mere three years into their journey; then again, Irish Hill stood for bourbonism before bourbonism was cool, and if bourbon was lost, Brauner and Morrison found it, right where it was, hiding in plain sight.

Brauner enjoys reminding listeners of the wording on Bourbons Bistro t-shirts, circa 2005: “Bringing bourbon back one sip at a time.”

Mission accomplished.” F&D

(clockwise from above) Front-ofthe-House Manager Margot McMillen; filet of beef crowned with a skewered shrimp and citrus beurre blanc; Savannah Smile martini brimming with lemon cream and fresh fruit; heirloom tomatoes atop brioche with an herbed ricotta spread and a balsamic glaze drizzle.

Easy Entertaining_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 6:58 PM Page 22

food | easy entertaining

EASY ailgating entertaining T For us, the arrival of Fall whets our appetite not only for food, but for fun, cocktails, and the highspirited camaraderie and friendly rivalries that create lasting friendships and bring people together. (from left) Tim Laird, Carmelo Gabriele, Lori Laird, Paul Sant and Allen Sims.

22 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

BY TIM & LORI LAIRD | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

Every tailgater has his or her favorite recipes – and some of those recipes endure as family traditions that last for generations.

But this season, we wanted to explore some new ideas. So we invited three of our favorite chefs with quite different culinary backgrounds to a recent tailgate party. And we asked them to create menus based on their own approach to the joys of pop-up communal cooking.

Of our three chefs, only one grew up as a tailgater. But all of them have experienced the joys of gathering outdoors for a festive casual meal with family and friends. Each chef gave us the kind of “A Game” recipes that might

well become new traditions for us in the future.

Allen Sims, who became Executive Chef at Buck’s last December, chuckles when asked about his tailgating history. “We never could afford to go tailgating,” he says of his childhood in western Michigan. “But I grew up like Tom Sawyer. I could walk to Lake Michigan and Mona Lake and take a fishing pole. You’d eat what you’d catch that day, and if you didn’t catch anything you didn’t eat.”

Though Sims’ family didn’t tailgate, they would hit the beach, fire up a grill, and cook their catch. His memories of those beach parties are the inspiration behind this grilled

Easy Entertaining_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 6:59 PM Page 23

easy entertaining | food

Michigan-style take on a traditional clambake accompanied by an Old Bay-inflected green bean and watermelon salad. As for sports, Sims says that he roots for both UofM and MSU – as long as they’re not playing one another…. When they clash, though, he’s a University of Michigan partisan.

Seelbach Executive Chef Paul Sant grew up about as far from Michigan as is possible, in the coastal city of Melbourne, Australia.

That’s not exactly a hotbed of U.S.-style tailgating – something Sant first experienced when he moved to New York City and started attending New York Jets games.

Australians are famously devoted to the art of the barbecue. So Sant is not unfamiliar with the principles of pop-up outdoor dining.

His menu celebrates two dishes that exemplify Australian cuisine. Butternut squash (known Down Under as butternut pumpkin) is one of the country’s defining vegetables.

“People use it all year-round - for everything,” he says. “It’s quite sickening,” he says with a laugh. But that’s definitely not the case with his delightful roasted butternut squash salad with cranberries, walnuts, and goat

cheese serves as fine foil for the main course.

His grilled lamb with chimichurri is a perfect evocation of the ways Australia’s rich agricultural heritage intersects with the diversity of its modern cosmopolitan cuisine.

Sarino Chef Carmelo Gabriele is no stranger to tailgating. He’s a life-long UofL Cardinals fan whose tailgating history goes back to Trinity-St. X games he attended as a youth. “I loved tailgating,” he said. “It was so cool to have a party in the parking lot before a game. I used to have a gold Toyota 4Runner.

I always loved tailgating in that truck.”

His menu is a model of classic tailgate cuisine: spicy Italian sausages with sautéed onions and peppers and a multi-colored Sicilian salad bursting with flavor.

Remember: Food may be the center of a tailgating party, but it’s not the only thing that matters! Your goal is to create a great social experience that brings people together.

Below we offer some tips for making that happen.

And, of course, we offer a cocktail designed specifically to kick off your tailgating season!

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Allen Sims • Buck’s

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Michigan Shrimp, Mussel, and Clam Bake (Serves 6-8 casual fans or 2 professional tailgaters)

¼ 12 4 2 2

cup olive oil medium new potatoes, halved ears of corn on the cob, halved pounds Polish sausage pounds deveined shrimp (with shells still on) 2 pounds mussels 2 pounds clams

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 23

Easy Entertaining_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 6:59 PM Page 24

food | easy entertaining 1 pound butter, divided 1 pound pecans in shells or mesquite wood chips, soaked in water for at least 3 hours ½ cup parsley ¼ cup Old Bay 1 roll of paper towels Butcher paper

Michigan Shrimp, Mussel, and Clam Bake

Remove rack from grill, cover with foil, and brush with olive oil. Arrange the ingredients on the rack in a mound with potatoes on the bottom (facedown); then corn, sausage, and finally the shrimp and mussels on top. Place the clams around the mound.

Melt the butter. Place half of the melted butter in a bowl and place 8 paper towels in the butter to soak. Once the grill has reached a temperature of 350°, place the paper towels over the mound. Place pecans or wood chips over your coals to start the smoke. Place the mound on the grill. Cover with lid and cook for 20 to 25 minutes.

Remove paper towels and ladle the remaining butter on top of the bake, letting it cook for an additional minute. Sprinkle parsley and Old Bay before removing the mound from the grill and transferring it to the butcher paper to be served.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Green Bean and Watermelon Salad (Serves 6)

Green Bean and Watermelon Salad Sicilian Summer Insalata

1 pound green beans, trimmed and halved 6 ounces watermelon, balled 1/2 medium red onion, julienned 4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled 12-15 cherry tomatoes, cut in half 6 tablespoons balsamic glaze (commercial, or see instructions below) ¼ cup parsley, chopped ¼ cup Old Bay Seasoning Salt and pepper Fresh thyme sprigs (for garnish) Blanch green beans in salt water at a medium boil for 5 minutes, pull and chill in ice bath until cold.

Drain, pat dry, and place in large mixing bowl.

Add watermelon balls, red onions, crumbled feta cheese, parsley, balsamic glaze, Old Bay and a pinch of salt and pepper. Toss until thoroughly mixed. Adjust seasoning to taste.

For the balsamic glaze: Combine 3 cups of Balsamic vinegar; 1 orange, juiced; 1 cup sugar; 1/2 cup of honey. Reduce over a low heat until volume is reduced by about half (about 35-45 minutes).

Easy Entertaining_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 6:59 PM Page 25

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Carmelo Gabrielle • Sarino

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Sicilian Summer Insalata (Salad) (Serves 10) “

4 pounds mixed marble potatoes, boiled and peeled 2 pounds haricot verts, blanched 4-5 large heirloom tomatoes, quartered and cut in half 1½ cups Sicilian olives 2 cups fresh mozzarella balls (ciliegine or bocconcini) 5 sprigs of fresh oregano 3 cups extra virgin olive oil 1 cup red wine vinegar Salt and pepper to taste 2 heads of Belgian endive 5 hard-boiled eggs, halved 1 red onion, julienned Toss the potatoes, haricot verts, heirloom tomatoes, Sicilian olives, and ciliegine mozzarella balls together in a mixing bowl.

Season with leaves from 2 sprigs of oregano, olive oil, red wine vinegar and salt and pepper. Toss again.

Fill a serving platter with contents from the mixing bowl, lining the outer edge with the Belgian endive and hard boiled eggs.

Top with red onion and the remaining sprigs of oregano.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Spicy Italian Sausage (Serves 6)

12 Hot Italian sausage links (Carmelo makes his own (recipe below), but if you go with store-bought, he recommends Johnsonville.)

2 white onions, julienned 3 red bell peppers, julienned 3 yellow bell peppers, julienned Grill the sausage links until they are firm and have reached an internal temperature of 160°F. While the links cook, sauté the white

Spicy Italian Sausage onions, red peppers and yellow peppers in butter until the onions are caramelized.

BONUS | For Sarino’s house sausages: 1 4-pound skinless, boneless pork shoulder (Boston butt), cut into 1–2" pieces 2 tablespoons kosher salt 1 tablespoon fennel seeds, toasted 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper 2 teaspoons paprika 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 2 teaspoons finely grated garlic 3 tablespoons dry red wine 1¼ inch fresh collagen casings

Chill all grinder parts and a large stainlesssteel bowl in the freezer until very cold, about 1 hour. Place pork in a single layer on 2 lined baking sheets; cover and freeze until meat is firm but not frozen, about 1 hour.

Combine salt, fennel seeds, black pepper, cayenne, paprika, smoked paprika, and red pepper flakes in a small bowl; set aside. Grind pork on high speed, 3–4 pieces at a time, into chilled bowl. If grinder clogs (meat will look pink, not red and white), clean die and cutter before continuing.

Add garlic and mix gently by hand.

Sprinkle reserved spice mixture evenly over pork and knead — while rotating the bowl — until the spices are distributed and a light film has formed on the side of the bowl. Add wine; knead until mixture holds together and is very stiff (it will spring back when pressed). Take care not to over-mix or the sausage will be crumbly.

Press ¼ cup sausage mixture into a palmsized patty. Extend hand with meat, palm facing down. If meat sticks for at least 5 seconds, www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 25

Easy Entertaining_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 6:59 PM Page 26

food | easy entertaining

Grilled Lamb with Lemon Mint Chimichurri

it is sufficiently mixed. If not, continue to knead in 15-second intervals until it sticks.

Wrap patty in a small sheet of foil; cover and chill remaining mixture. Cook foil-wrapped patty in a small skillet (not nonstick) over medium-low heat until meat is cooked through, about 4 minutes per side. Let rest 2 minutes.

Unwrap patty and cut in half; it should hold together. If not, save for another use and try again. Place casings in a large bowl under cold running water and let sit, allowing it to overflow and flush through the casings until softened, about 2 minutes. Slide 1 casing onto stuffer nozzle, leaving a 6" overhang (do not tie). If casing is too long or tangles, cut in half and work with 1 piece at a time.

Pack a handful of sausage mixture very lightly into stuffer. Working with a partner and with stuffer on high speed, use plunger to push meat through, gradually filling casing; gently sliding filled casing off nozzle onto a baking sheet as you go.

Fill casing firmly but don’t overstuff (mixture will tighten when links are twisted, causing overfilled casings to burst). As casing fills, lightly prick air bubbles with sausage pricker.

Leave at least 6" of empty casing at the end.

Roasted Butternut Squash, Cranberry, and Walnut Salad 26 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Paul Sant • Seelbach

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Grilled Lamb with Lemon Mint Chimichurri (Serves 6)

For the lamb: 12 ¾”-thick lamb porterhouse (Paul uses Freedom Run Farm’s which can be found at most Krogers) ½ tablespoon black pepper

Easy Entertaining_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 6:59 PM Page 27

2 tablespoons sea salt 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Remove lamb from the refrigerator and let rest for 15-20 minutes to reach room temperature.

Coat all sides with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Heat a pan over the grill until it is nearly smoking. Once the pan is ready, sear the lamb for 3 minutes on both sides for a perfect medium-rare.

For the chimichurri: 2 1 1 2

cloves garlic, chopped cup fresh mint cup fresh Italian parsley tablespoon red wine vinegar (optional) ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 ⁄ 8 teaspoon red pepper flakes ¼ cup olive oil Lemon zest Place garlic in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until chopped. Add the mint and parsley leaves and pulse until finely chopped.

Remove to a medium bowl.

Add the vinegar, salt, and red pepper flakes to the mixture and stir until the salt has dissolved. Stir in the olive oil. Finish with the

zest of one lemon to add brightness. Sauce keeps in the refrigerator for several days.

Once the lamb has been plated, spread the chimichurri as liberally as you prefer.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Roasted Butternut Squash, Cranberry, and Walnut Salad (Serves 6)

1 butternut squash 2 tablespoons olive oil Fresh baby arugula 1 ⁄ 3 cup dried cranberries 1 ⁄ 3 cup chopped pecans (glazed optional) Goat cheese 1 medium red onion, sliced Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Cut the butternut squash lengthwise down the middle, removing and discarding seeds and stringy pulp from the center. Carefully peel off the outer skin and cut the squash into 1-inch cubes.

Toss the cubes with olive oil in a bowl until coated. Transfer to a prepared tray and bake until the squash is cooked, approximately 15 minutes.

Once the squash has cooled, gently mix it,

The Red Zone the baby arugula, dried cranberries, pecans, onions and goat cheese together in a serving bowl. Serve chilled.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

The Red Zone In a rocks glass, add:

1½ ounces Jack Daniel’s Old No. 7 2 ounces cranberry juice 1 ounce lemonade Stir and garnish with a cherry.

F&D

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 27

Lupo_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 7:05 PM Page 28

profile | pizza lupo

Pizza Lupo 1540 Frankfort Ave.

502-409-8440 Pizzalupo.com HOURS: Tuesday-Thursday, 5pm - 10pm Friday & Saturday, 5pm - 11pm

BY MARTY ROSEN | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

28 Fall 2019Â www.foodanddine.com

Lupo_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 9:26 PM Page 29

pizza lupo | profile

Max Balliet is not bitter.

In fact, he carries himself with a cheerful, placid calm. In conversation he is thoughtful and precise, soft-spoken and witty. Apart from an occasional self-deprecating quip, he’s not prone to irony.

Those traits are vanishingly rare in an edgy, adrenaline-laden world where reviews, reputation, and good fortune are determined plate-by-plate and customer-by-customer — especially in the realm of high profile restaurants.

And the restaurant that Balliet leads, Pizza Lupo, is definitely high profile.

Less than a year after it opened, in the fall of 2017 readers of Louisville Magazine dubbed it the city’s Best New Restaurant. Now, as Pizza Lupo celebrates its second birthday, expectations con-

tinue to grow, elevated by sustained waves of press coverage.

So, in truth, Balliet has no reason to be bitter.

But bitterness is one of his culinary preoccupations.The deft use of bitter notes, he says, is one of the keys to Italian cuisine.

Balliet’s first experience with traditional Italian cuisine came during a family trip to Naples in his early teens. That trip was followed by years of experiments in the family kitchen. A later trip yielded a deep enthusiasm for Neapolitan pizza.

Then came years of what amounted to an extended apprenticeship at prominent restaurants like Allan Rosenberg’s Papalinos Pizza, Za’s, Blind Pig, and Bim Dietrich’s Primo. In fact, it could be that if there is an “origin story” about Pizza Lupo, it might date back to one of Balliet’s youthful experiences at Primo, where he started his kitchen career as a dishwasher.

It seems Balliet had come across references to the Taleggio, the washed-rind (and highly aromatic) Italian cheese. He suggested that Primo, which featured pizzas made in a wood-burning oven, should consider adding a Taleggio pizza to the menu.

As Balliet recalls it, the response was, to put it mildly, incredulous. Someone asked whether Balliet had ever tasted Tallegio.

He said, “No.” And the idea went nowhere. Fast forward to Pizza Lupo and you’ll find a luscious pizza called “Moonchild” on the menu: Tallegio, potato, Moroccan olives, and Bechamel.

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 29

Lupo_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 7:05 PM Page 30

Chef/Owner Max Balliet

After my talk with Balliet, I reached Bim Dietrich by phone. When I mentioned the word Taleggio, he laughed and said, “What did I tell him? No?” By the way, Bim also gave Lupo a pretty strong endorsement. “I’d recommend it to anyone who is looking for an Italian-style dining experience,” he said.

Balliet’s first foray into the ownership ranks was the popular Holy Molé Food Truck – where his soft shell crab taco was selected by The Food Network Magazine as one of the fifty best tacos in the country.

So Balliet’s vision of Lupo’s cuisine has been shaped by his youthful inquisitiveness and many years of experience, reflection, study, and experiment. And he’s given a lot of thought to bitterness.

“Bitter is definitely a polarizing issue,” says Balliet. “For a lot of people it is inherently a negative quality. Many people think that if a dish is not salty or sweet or purposely sour, then it hasn’t been properly prepared. But Italians — and a lot of Europeans — look at bitter as exactly what it is - another flavor profile. As I was growing up, and coming up in kitchens, I was super focused on balance. From early on I thought that the more balanced, you can make a dish, the more delicious it is. And to achieve balance, you have to consider bitter.”

Early in his restaurant career, Balliet said, he worked for chefs who built their cuisine not by measuring out sweet, salty, and sour ingredients, but rather by tasting and trusting their palates to find the right balance.

“Bitter was something we didn’t really play with,” he said. “But when it is there, when you give it a presence, I think you can achieve a really harmonious blend of flavors that you can’t get without it. So for a long time, I’ve worked consciously with bitter.”

At Lupo, says Balliet, he’s especially focused on ways to use bitter notes to create delicious, intriguing flavors.

“Much of Italian cooking is around flavors like arugula or rapini,” he says. “These are attractive attributes in a dish because they add character and dimension, which are difficult things to create. A perfectly ripe tomato is going to be sweet and acidic and satisfying, but it won’t have the intensity of a farmers’ market arugula that will set your head on fire. It’s futile to try to compare the ‘deliciousness’ of any particular ingredient. But these days people explore lots of different foods and think a lot about food, So ‘deliciousness’ is a matter of character and complexity. We’re on a quest to find and create things that are interesting. And for a cook, bitter flavors offer a whole new artistic palette from which to create ideas that are delicious but not very familiar.”

Still, those unfamiliar flavors have to be carefully man-

(left center) Curly endive salad with frisee and anchovies. (right center) The Marinara pizza with hand-milled San Marzano tomatoes, shaved garlic and basil. (left) A mezze platter of pickled and marinated antipasti.

30

Lupo_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 7:05 PM Page 31

pizza lupo | profile aged, says Balliet. And that is one of the foundational aspects of Italian cuisine. “You have to tame those elements in a way that people who have never really appreciated bitter flavors will say, ‘That’s delicious.”

To illustrate how that works, Balliet led me to the kitchen.

The Heat Is On

Early in the day, the kitchen at Pizza Lupo is bright and cheerful as a playground. It’s one of the few commercial kitchens I’ve seen with a generous splash of natural light (and herbs growing in the window). The workspaces in the lovingly refurbished ante-bellum brick building near the foot of Frankfort Avenue are bright and cheerful. A brick-lined, wood-burning stove that’s framed in fire engine red dominates the room.

In the kitchen, Balliet works alongside Sous Chef Katie Smith, a member of this year’s cohort of The LEE Initiative’s Women Chefs Initiative, a program developed by Chef Edward Lee and 610 Magnolia General Manager Lindsey Ofcacek to provide mentoring, experience, and leadership development for women in the culinary disciplines.

Balliet, of course, is the Chef at Lupo. But from the way he says the word, I came away with the impression his preferred title might be pizzaiuolo. That’s the name given to pizza makers in Naples, where the art of traditional pizza making was recognized a couple of years ago by UNESCO, which added Neapolitan pizza to its “Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.”

Watching Balliet and Smith work, it’s clear that not only does the kitchen look like a playground, it functions that way as well. They have the kind of childlike absorption displayed by children totally engrossed in play.

Every action — whether dipping freshly harvested, locally-raised green beans in a prosecco batter for the sublime fritto misto or hand-cutting the saffron pasta that’s the base for the luxurious linguini and aragosta entrée — seems like a moment of meditative clarity.

But that stove is serious business. Nominally it’s a “pizza” oven. But in some measure, it’s the key to everything Lupo does. Picture a tandoori oven, sliced vertically in half, then set down horizontally. Now add a fierce flame in the back corner.

That fire, which burns at nine hundred to a thousand degrees, never really goes out — and it’s a particular sort of fire, says Balliet. “We like a nice tight little fire with a big flame that curls all the way up the dome.

Even when we close for a couple of days, when we come back there’s always a lump of coal still burning.”

To fuel the fire, Balliet uses the wood of ash trees.

And because there are no commercial suppliers of firewood in the small chunks he needs, a Lupo staffer named Keegan Gruber (who also assists with a variety of kitchen operations) spends a couple of hours a day manually chopping the wood with an ax and an

(top) The meatless Moonchild pizza topped with potato, mushroom, olives and ricotta. (above) The timeless Margherita pizza. (right and below) Views of Pizza Lupo’s dining room and bar.

Lupo_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 7:05 PM Page 32

profile | pizza lupo antique European log splitter.

It’s a stove that demands complete focus. At these temperatures, a few seconds can make the difference between a great pizza and one that’s completely destroyed. “We’re cooking these pizzas in 60 seconds,” says Balliet. “And from the moment the pizza is conceived, it never leaves our sight until it’s delivered to the customer.”

For those unfamiliar with Balliet’s work outside the culinary world, it’s worth noting that he and his partners (his sister and brother-in-law Sarah Balliet and Adam Turla ) are all musicians. Sarah and Adam are members of Murder By Death, and Max, in addition to having played with The Ladybirds, served as guitarist in the touring band of legendary rockabilly singer-songwriter Wanda Jackson. And there’s a musical rhythm to the work in the kitchen...

Making pizzas (and the rotating focaccias, and most of the items on the menu at Lupo) is a daily affair. The dough is made in the morning and shaped into small, pillow sized packets. When an order is placed, Max and Katie “open the dough” in graceful gestures that Max compares to playing the accordion. During the opening, the plump outside rim is sacrosanct, and must never be broken. A dusting of fine semolina is applied to the bottom (Balliet says the tiny grains act like ball bearings, lubricating the bottom of the pizza in the inferno). Sauces and toppings are added to the center. Then, using a wooden peel, they slide the pizza into the oven. Elite athletes sometimes attribute their virtuosity on the field to their ability to “slow the game down.” And although Balliet’s process involves a lot of steps and a searing oven, it seems to happen outside of time.

But a lot is going on during that time. As the dough is opened, bubbles form on the rim. In the heat, those bubbles will brown and blacken into dots that form the pattern known as “leoparding.”

Those leopard spots are the repository of the bitter flavors uniquely associated with authentic Neapolitan pizza. So for the couple of minutes it takes from the opening of the dough to the moment Max and Katie use the pizza scissors to cut it into slices, they are constantly monitoring the bubbles with a view toward balancing the bitter notes.

The Lupo oven gets other uses, too. The Lupo menu always offers a few other dishes that take advantage of what also turns out to be one of the finest broilers imaginable. For one menu staple,

(top) Gargati pasta with pancetta. (center) Wood fired oysters dressed with a horseradish pesto. (far left) Wood fired caulilini. (left) Watermelon inslata with cherry tomatoes, creamy goat cheese, and candied hazelnuts.

32

Lupo_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 7:05 PM Page 33

pizza lupo | profile Balliet tops oysters with a smear of n’duja (a spicy, spreadable Italian salumi from Calabria in the south of Italy), horseradish pesto, and Parmigiana Reggiano. Then he runs it into the fierce oven just long enough to form a crunchy molten crust on top, while keeping the cool, melting texture of oyster intact.

Pizza is the heart of the matter at Pizza Lupo, of course.

And the classic simplicity of the Margherita pizza (a longstanding $10 Tuesday night special) or the classic Marinara with hand-milled tomatoes, garlic, basil and extra virgin olive oil) are great ways to savor the essence of this kitchen’s work. But other pizzas feature ingredients like country ham, fennel sausage and braised broccoli rabe, locally-raised ribeye, eggplant, and more. One of the lesser-known aspects of Neapolitan pizza, says Balliet, is that in its native home it usually is not sliced at all. It’s served whole, and diners attack it with a knife and fork – and use the crust to dip up the kinds of sauces that otherwise might be left lingering on a plate or in a bowl (of course, this might get in the way of sharing your pizza….).

The menu changes with the seasons – and Balliet is an opportunistic hunter-gatherer who on any given day may add new items as they come into season. When available, you can count on finding salads that feature the sweet crunch of watermelons. As we go to press, he’s been serving littleneck clams in a country haminflected Japanese-style soup stock, topped off with an IPA-based foam.

Always on the menu are a wonderful assortment of shareable dishes — fritto misto, a mezze platter, pickled vegetables, an assortment of olives. Actually, everything here is shareable — including the seasonal entrée.

Although the cuisine plays with bitter notes, the dining experience is sweet, indeed. Pizza Lupo exhibits the same feel of unobtrusive excellence in a civilized Eurostyle atmosphere that many Louisville diners associate with the Blue Dog Bakery and Café.

Balliet attributes the design to his sister and brotherin-law. Brick walls are bedecked with posters for Italian films (and Italian releases of films from other countries, like Ingmar Bergman’s “Hour of the Wolf). And sound baffles on the ceiling (constructed of wood salvaged from the building during the renovation) create a sonic environment that reduces echoes and noise and enables audible conversations whether dining with one partner or with ten.

The Italian-influenced bar program, with its generous assortment of aperitivos and amari), is also something of a marvel (we’ll be writing about that in some detail in the next issue). For the moment, we’ll just note that the wine list is brief but impeccable. Jessye Ramsey, who does double duty as both Bar and Front of House Manager, mixes meticulous cocktails and leads a consistently high-performing and well-informed staff. Beverage explorers seeking out new and interesting in flavors will discover plenty of little-known treasures on this bar. F&D

(top) The Linguini & Aragosta couples lobster tail with hand-cut saffron pasta. (above) The Roasted + Toasted pizza pairs smoked tomatoes with eggplant and capers. (right) Sous Chef Katie Smith. (below, right) Staff member Keegan Gruber chopping ash logs for the oven. (below) Chef Max separates dough each day before setting aside to proof.

Cooking with Ron_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 8/28/19 9:36 PM Page 34

food | cooking with ron

Apples Fall Foods From the Tree

BY RON MIKULAK | PHOTOS BY ANDY HYSLOP

N

ot so very long ago, fruits and vegetables appeared

in markets seasonally - when the food was ripe and tastiest. Strawberries for a few weeks in spring. Sweet peaches and juicy tomatoes during the summer. That’s when they were best, and that’s when you would find them.

In those days, apples were a quintessential fall treat, eaten raw, baked into pies, or dipped in caramel or red candied coatings.

These days, international trade, advances in transporting and preserving fresh fruits, and supermarket produce strategies have made the concept of seasonal eating passé. Maybe I’m part of the last generation to think so, but I believe that certain foods should only be eaten at specific times of the year – when they are ripe and in season.

Louisville cooks are lucky to have a fine variety of locally raised apples that reach ripeness throughout the growing season. Early-season June apples (also called Lodis or Early Transparents) usually finish their season by the Fourth of July.They are excellent for making apple sauce – but are a bit too tart and mealy to serve as eating apples.

But the best and most versatile locally-grown eating and pie apples arrive at area markets and farms in late summer, and remain abundant well into the fall.

Regional orchards always bring interesting varieties to market – and this year we can expect bumper crops and plenty of choices, since there were no late frosts to nip the blossoms in the bud.

Apples in America – and beyond

Perhaps in large part due to the enduring image of Johnny Appleseed, apples have become part of the American mythos. According to Michael Pollan in The Botany of Desire, there actually was an Ohio-based orchardist in the very early 1800s who made a career in trading in apple seedlings along the Ohio River valley, the gateway into the Northwest Territories, which were to become the upper Midwest states of Ohio, Indiana, Michigan and Wisconsin. John Chapman traded mostly in cider apples, for those are what farmers on the westering frontier wanted and needed – a source of sweetness and a source of easily brewed, low potency alcohol, from their own farmsteads.

But as much as apples are entrenched in the legends, lore and documented history of America, the apple is not native to the New World.The biological origins of the apple are still in some debate, but plant geneticists now think they can show that apples originated on the hillsides of Kazakhstan (rather than in the Caucasus mountains, as historans once surmised).

The ancient Silk Road ran through Kazakhstan, 34 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

and apples became one of the many exotic goods that traders carried from Asia to the West. Although some archaeological evidence suggests that apples were part of the Northern European diet as early as 300-500 CE (and the European crab apple originated in the West), archaeobotanical and genome studies show that the apples we eat today originated in the Tien Shan Mountains of Kazakhstan.

Apples flourish in cooler climates, and by the early Middle Ages they had become part of the rich culinary traditions of Germany, France and England.

Over the centuries, the apple spread around the world to South America (where Chile is a major producer) and Australia (where the Granny Smith was developed). Global apple production and supply chains account for year-round availability of apples in our supermarkets.

Apples’ genetic origin is important because of the complexity of the fruit’s genome. Apple seeds do not produce seedlings that replicate the parent tree.

Apples grown from seed most often produce unpalatable fruit – rock hard or mushy, mouth-puckeringly sour or initially sweet, but increasingly bitter when chewed. These were the kind of apples grown from seed that John Chapman actually sold around the mid-West - fruit that was not great to eat, but that made fine cider.

But such seedlings frequently produce “sports,” genetic mutations with often appealing qualities. Orchards are grown from climate-adapted root stock to which orchardists graft branches from trees with desirably characteristic fruit, often discovered in sports.

The complexity of the apple genome has inspired generations of orchardists and scientists to create thousand varieties of apples, with distinctive taste profiles, textures, sizes and colors. But many of the older apple varieties, much beloved by local constituencies, had poor keeping qualities, or were too easily bruised in transport, or did not have superficial visual appeal, being asymmetrical, or splotchy in color, or with a skin that couldn’t be shined for display in a supermarket produce case.These days, the exigencies of the market have reduced commercially available apples from thousands of varieties to perhaps a dozen or so.

Concerned about the loss of genetic diversity in the commercial apple crop, plant breeders are using the early apples still grown in Kazakhstan to

Cooking with Ron_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 8/28/19 7:16 PM Page 35

cooking with ron | food

Pork Roast with Apples and Sweet Potatoes Autumn Apple-Hazelnut Salad

35

Cooking with Ron_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 8/28/19 7:16 PM Page 36

food | cooking with ron

cross-breed desirable traits such as pest and disease resistance into modern apple varieties.

In addition to being historically and scientifically interesting, apples are a versatile fruit, adding texture and taste to salads and soups, as well as desserts, and setting off flavors in meat, especially pork. Here are a few interesting and not too difficult ways to add apples to your seasonal diet.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Autumn Apple-Hazelnut Salad (Serves 6) I found this recipe in a rather cumbersome (it’s over a thousand pages!), but often interesting cookbook, Starting with Ingredients: Quintessential Recipes for the Way We Really Cook by Aliza Green.

Apple cider dressing: 2 cups apple cider ¼ cup cider vinegar 1 tablespoon coarse grained mustard ¼ cup hazelnut oil (or a neutral oil, like canola) Salt and pepper

In a heavy pot, simmer the cider over low heat until it is thick and syrupy, reduced to about ¼ cup in volume. be careful not to burn as it reduces.

Remove from heat, pour cider into a blender, add remaining dressing ingredients, and blend until smooth.

Salad: 1 red onion peeled and thinly sliced 1 cup hazelnuts About 1 pound mixed baby greens 3 assorted apples, red and green, unpeeled Lemon juice Soak sliced onions in ice water 10 to 15 minutes.

Place hazelnuts in a baking pan large enough so the nuts are in one layer. Place hazelnuts in a 350 degree oven for 15 minutes. Remove, pour onto a kitchen towel and rub with another towel to remove most of the papery skins.

Set aside.

Wash and dry greens, tear into pieces and place in salad bowl. Cut apples from all four sides of the core, dice the apples and toss with lemon juice to slow browning, and add to salad bowl. Drain onions, add to salad bowl and toss.

Roughly chop the hazelnuts and add to salad.

Toss again with a light coating of the dressing.

Taste and add more dressing if needed.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Pork Roast with Apples and Sweet Potatoes (Serves 6) Roast two stars of the autumn harvest –apples and sweet potatoes – alongside pork for a satisfying meal in a single pan. Props to Martha Stewart for inspiring this recipe.

4 teaspoons olive oil, divided 1 pork roast (2½ pounds), tied at 1-inch intervals Salt and pepper 3 apples, quartered and cores cut away 2 sweet potatoes, cut into ½-inch wedges 1 tablespoon flour 1½ cups chicken broth Heat oven to 475 degrees. Coat a heavy-bottomed metal roasting pan with 2 teaspoons oil.

Place pork in center and season with salt and pepper. Roast until top is golden, about 15 minutes.

Toss apples and sweet potatoes with remaining 2 teaspoons oil and add to pan, arranging around pork. Return to oven and roast until apples and sweet potatoes are tender and an instant-read thermometer inserted in center of pork reads 140 degrees, about 20 minutes.

Remove pork, apples, and sweet potatoes

Apple Pandowdy

36

Cooking with Ron_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 8/28/19 7:16 PM Page 37

from pan. Allow meat to rest 10 minutes before slicing. To make the sauce, whisk flour into pan drippings over medium heat, then slowly whisk in chicken broth and cook until thickened.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Apple Pandowdy (Serves 6) This version of pandowdy, a traditional, homespun recipe, was featured in Bon Appetit back in 2016.

6 tablespoons unsalted butter 4 pounds (about 6) assorted apples, both sweet and tart ⅔ cup (packed) dark brown sugar 3 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 lemon 1 ½-inch piece ginger 1 package frozen puff pastry, thawed Granulated sugar (for sprinkling) Vanilla ice cream (optional) Heat oven to 425°. Cook 6 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat, swirling often, until bubbling and golden, about 5 minutes; set aside.

Peel apples, then stand them upright and slice down along core, working all the way around to remove big lobes of flesh. Cut lobes lengthwise into 1" pieces (irregular shapes are fine). Discard peel and cores. Transfer apples to a large bowl.

Add brown sugar, flour, vanilla, cinnamon, and ½ teaspoon salt to bowl with apples. Using a microplane or fine rasp grater, grate zest of half a lemon over apples. Cut lemon in half and squeeze juice from zested half over apples, catching any seeds. Remove peel from ginger, then grate over apples. Toss apple mixture until combined, then transfer to a shallow 3-quart baking dish. Drizzle all but 2 tablespoons brown butter over apples.

Dust cutting board with a light coating of flour and unfold puff pastry on floured surface. Dust top with flour. Cut puff pastry into irregular 2-inch pieces (any shape is fine). Arrange pieces of puff pastry over apples, overlapping and covering the apples completely. Brush pastry with remaining brown butter. Sprinkle with granulated sugar.

Bake pandowdy until pastry is puffed and golden around edges, 25–30 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and continue to bake until juices are thick and bubbling and pastry is brown all over, 30–35 minutes longer.

Using a spoon, press pastry down into warm juices (but don’t fully submerge); let cool slightly. Serve pandowdy warm with ice cream, if you wish, but it is fine all by itself. F&D wwwfoodanddine.com Fall 2019 37

Manhattan Project_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 7:19 PM Page 38

profile | the manhattan project

The Manhattan Project 2101 Frankfort Ave.

502.749.8925 Themanhattanprojectky.com 38

Manhattan Project_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 7:19 PM Page 39

When Kevin Strnatka retired in 2013 from NIPSCO, the firm that supplies natural gas and electricity to Northern Indiana, he didn’t have any specific plans — other than to live out his golden years having fun and relaxing. Six years later that idea is still on hold. Instead, Strnatka said, he and his wife Barbara found a new niche, one he likes because, “it keeps me physically and mentally active.”

That niche happens to be being part-owners of a gastropub/sports bar called the Manhattan Project in Louisville’s Clifton neighborhood. Instead of lounging on a beach in Florida, Strnatka and his wife Barbara split their time between their home on Brownsboro Road in Louisville and the house where they raised their three children in Schererville, Indiana (nicknamed “The Crossroads of America”).

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 39

Manhattan Project_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 7:19 PM Page 40

In early August, Kevin was sitting in a booth in the front room of the Manhattan Project next to his oldest son Erick, the establishment’s managing partner. The un-retiree was struggling to explain the thought process that led him from one enormously complex and demanding, large-scale industry to an enterprise that, though much smaller in size, is just as challenging.

Finally, Kevin turned to Erick and asked, “How did you talk me into this?�

Shrugging, Erick replied, “I don’t know.� And both men laughed.

Erick Strnatka’s career path is easily traced. He got into the hospitality industry while attending Purdue University. From bar-backing in the student hangouts around campus in West Lafayette, Indiana, he advanced to bartending. After earning a degree in Hospitality and Tourism Management in 2007, Erick relocated about 45 minutes from his family’s home to Chicago, where he soon advanced into managing bars. “Once you’ve been in the hospitality business so long, bartending and managing, then owning your own place is the next step if you’re going to stay in the industry,� Erick said. “You can only bartend for so long,�

Erick found his way to Louisville, and in 2011, with a couple of other partners (and an investment from Kevin) he opened Baxter’s 942 Bar & Grill in the Highlands.

Kevin says that the restaurant bug bit him gradually. After he allegedly retired, Kevin and Barbara started spending time in Louisville visiting Erick, his wife Nicole, and their two young children who were born here. That, in turn, meant spending more time at Baxter 942. And before long the “retiree� was back at work — washing dishes and bussing tables when the staff was short-handed.

Thus, Kevin’s was an old-fashioned introduction to the business, learning it from the ground up. And the more he learned, the more interested he got. Eventually, he and Erick started talking about starting a second, more low-key establishment. Ultimately, they decided to take advantage of Louisville’s place at the center of the bourbon universe with a hybrid blend of gastropub and sports bar. “Baxter’s is all based around nightlife, most of our sales are 10 o’clock on. I wanted something that was a little different, more food-based, a different sort of atmosphere,� Erick explained.

In 2016, with location and design assistance from real estate investor Fred Pizzonia and his wife Angelica, the Strnatkas opened the first phase of The Manhattan Project in a former consignment shop behind what was then Nancy’s Bagel Grounds. When Nancy’s relocated last year to a nearby location on Spring Street, the Strnatkas expanded (top) Al fresco dining and prime people-watching on busy Frankfort Avenue. (center); Offering around 90 choices, the ambitious bar program encourages exploration; (left group) The original Manhattan Project includes a massive dining area, a full bar, a cozy loft lounge and versatile patio dining for any season, with roll-up garage doors/windows.

40

Manhattan Project_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 7:19 PM Page 41

their establishment and created the gastropub/sports bar of their dreams.

These days, The Manhattan Project has two distinct personalities.

The new front room, which opened in January 2019, is a sleek wood and metal decorated gastropub that seats 94 people. The bar and tabletops are made of repurposed wood from a New Albany bowling alley. The back room, the original site they opened in 2016, has all the trappings of a classic sports bar. It’s an expansive space that seats more than 150 and connects to a patio that can seat an additional forty people. Indoors, there are more than twenty televisions. Barrel slats frame the booths lining one wall.

And like the space itself, the name “Manhattan Project� has a dual meaning.

Erick, a history buff, knew the name would invoke the famed World War II research program that developed the first nuclear bomb. But the Manhattan is also Kevin’s favorite cocktail. The name resonated with both father and son because they wanted to create a destination that would appeal to bourbon lovers. It’s an idea that has proven successful: one of the bar’s most popular drinks is the OG Manhattan, which updates the classic cocktail with a kiss of raspberry liqueur.

The Manhattan Project beverage program offers nearly 90 bourbons and whiskeys, including scotches, ryes, etc., (some offerings are seasonal). Erick says that one of his goals is for the restaurant to become a stop on the Urban Bourbon Trail.

Kevin and his wife Barbara have been extremely hands-on at the Manhattan Project. She focuses on ensuring that the interior has a polished sheen and that the exterior landscaping is attractive and inviting. (Erick jokes that the flowers always die when Barbara goes home to Indiana for a visit).

In addition to helping in the front and back of the house, Kevin has become the official food taster. If something goes awry in the kitchen, Kevin is prepared to offer quality control. “I try to stay out of the kitchen,� he said. “But I give my comments on whether the food is good or not.�

One of Kevin’s suggestions was to make sure the menu reflected the family’s northern origins.

In Northern Indiana and the Chicago suburbs, lake perch is a culinary obsession. According to Kevin Strnatka, it has been that way since at least 1910, when a legendary restaurant called Phil Smidt’s opened in (top) Love some Mac-and-Cheese? Select from more than a dozen options to build your own personalized version. (center) Blackened ahi tuna with pineapple salsa. (right) Fresh water Lake Perch is a specialty, served with drawn butter, tartar sauce and jalapeno slaw.

the manhattan project | profile

Manhattan Project_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 7:19 PM Page 42

profile | the manhattan project Hammond, Indiana. Teibel’s Family Restaurant, a competing establishment, opened in Schererville in 1929. Until Smidt’s closed in 2007, it and Teibel’s carried on the kind of regional rivalry that’s usually associated with college sports.

For generations folks from “Da Region” (as people from that part of the state call the Northwest corner of Indiana), showed their allegiance by frequenting Smidt’s or Teibel’s on Friday night. According to a report in the Hammond Times, during the 1960s, Phil Smidt’s alone served more than a million meals a year.

For Kevin, bringing lake perch to Louisville was a passion project. “I wanted us to offer something unique and something from home,” he said.

Erick was an enthusiastic supporter. But he wanted to accent the freshwater lake perch with a taste of Kentucky.

So, the cooks at the Manhattan Project lightly coat the filets in Weisenberger fish batter mix and serve it the traditional way, with drawn butter, tartar sauce, fries, and coleslaw.

Testimonials – from first-time perch lovers and people who’ve experienced it up north have been overwhelmingly positive, the Strnatkas say.

Early on, Erick said, the Manhattan Project triggered some concerns from Clifton residents who thought it might mirror the night-life atmosphere at Baxter’s 942. But these days, he said, neighbors have warmed up to the business, and area residents account for much of the restaurant’s foot traffic.

The Manhattan Project has spaces available for special occasions and is committed to building a sense of community through weekly events like the popular Tuesday night “Family Feud” style quiz competition, and wine and food specials.

“We're shooting for an upscale bourbon bar/sports bar.

But we're not talking about pricing. It is more about atmosphere, presentation, service and quality. We’re trying to do something that will fit in the neighborhood really well,” Erick added.

Running the Manhattan Project has been a learning experience for Erick because it is the most food-based establishment he has been a part of. Much of his career focused on bars that depended on high-value liquors sales. Making the transition successful required him to spend more time considering food costs and ordering procedures.

Since Frankfort Avenue is one of the city’s most prominent restaurant rows, establishing the right culinary niche for the Manhattan Project has been a learning experience that required multiple kitchen reboots under different chefs.

In the beginning, Erick said, he thought the cuisine was too “chef-driven,” but didn’t stand out enough in an area already dominated by restaurants like Varanese (which is located directly across the street from the Manhattan Project) or nearby Volare Italian Ristorante.

Now, with the arrival of Chef Ronnie Dunning, Erick said, the Manhattan Project has found its sweet spot. Dunning, an experienced chef who has worked at fine-dining establishments like Corbett’s and Volare, has created a menu that occupies a popular and important niche based on excellent execution of a menu that bridges the gap between comfort food and fine dining.

42 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

(top) Vegetarian flatbread with a pesto base, goat cheese and balsamic glaze. (above) Ahi tuna tacos topped with jalapeno slaw and chipotle sour cream. (right) Executive Chef Ronnie Dunning.

Manhattan Project_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/28/19 7:19 PM Page 43

Beyond the perch, the Manhattan Project’s menu is simple and fun. Build-your-own mac and cheese options range from savory proteins — such as fried shrimp and grilled chicken — to adventurous veggie options like roasted tomatoes and pickled red onion. Among the desserts is a PB&J Bread Pudding with a dollop of vanilla ice cream. There are also other items like wings and burgers which you would expect from a sports bar.

“We’re not fine dining, but we’re also not that pub where all you are going to get is fried cheese sticks,” Erick added. “We’ve found our niche. When there is a big sporting event, we get packed. March is one of our busiest months because of the NCAA tournament. The women’s World Cup started at 11 o’clock on a Sunday and every seat in this place was taken.”

Of course, since this is a family affair, Erick also had to learn to say no to Kevin, the guy who used to set his curfew. “When it comes to something he doesn’t really know about, he typically just lets me go with it,” Erick said. Then after a chuckle he says, “But sometimes, he’ll make a change and after three days I get, like, four customer complaints. Then I’ll just say, ‘I’m going back.’ But we don’t disagree that often for real.”

Because of all the changes going on at the Manhattan Project this year, Erick spends most of his time there. For a while he was general manager, kitchen manager and bar manager. Now he has two assistants, one to take care of the bar and one for the kitchen so that he can take a few days off each week.

As for Kevin, he spends most of his workday in his office at Baxter 942 and stops by the Manhattan Project mostly as a patron afterward. But he’s been thinking about cutting back his hours. In fact, he’s thinking about retiring again (or is that for the first time?), since Erick seems to have a handle on both their businesses.

“Staffing is very competitive in this town,” Kevin said.

“But we are very sound in the kitchen, and in the frontof-house as well. I don’t see myself working here too much longer. People are invested. My friends back in Indiana are all telling me that I never retired. You put a lot of hours into this business. It’s a young man’s game.”

The Manhattan Project is open Tuesday through Thursday from 4 p.m. to 11 p.m.; 4 p.m. to Midnight on Fridays; and 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. on Sundays. It offers brunch on Sunday from 10 a.m. to Noon. (And by the way, Kevin and Barbara exerted some influence on the brunch menu, too: one of the popular offerings, Barb’s French Toast RollUps, was inspired by one of Barbara’s specialties.) F&D (top left) Wings tossed in a buffalo sauce (front) and peanut butter and jelly sauce (back). (top right) Erick’s Breakfast Philly adds scrambled eggs to the usual Philly toppings. (center) Breakfast flatbread with eggs, bacon, jalapeno and topped with house-made queso. (right) Barb’s French Toast Roll-Ups encase cream cheese and a strawberry filling.

43

dining guide

Guide Index_Fall19_Ed2.qxp_Layout 1 8/28/19 7:25 PM Page 44

Cuisine Style

African..............................70 Asian/Chinese..................70 Asian/Filipino....................71 Asian/Japanese. ..............71 Asian/Korean ...................72 Asian/Thai........................72

Asian/Vietnamese ............72 Bar & Grill/Taphouse........66 Barbecue .........................62 Bistro/New American .......50 Burgers/Chicken ..............55 Cafés ...............................56 Cafeterias/Buffet ..............66 Cajun/Creole....................73 Casual Dining ..................58 Coffee/Tea Houses ..........80 Cuban/Caribbean.............73

Alphabetical Index RESTAURANT

211 Clover Lane 21st Amendment Tavern 321 Deli 4 Seasons Restaurant 410 Bakery 502 Bar & Bistro 610 Magnolia 78 Coffee Shop 80/20 @ Kaelin's 888 Great Wall 8th Street Pizza 8UP Drinkery A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China Abyssinia Á-Châu Restaurant Addis Grill Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café Adrienne's Italian Africa House Against The Grain Aji Sushi and Asian Cuisine Al Hamra Halal Buffet Aladdin's Mediterranean Alchemy Restaurant Alex&nder Alley Cat Café Alwatan Restaurant American Smokehouse Stadium Amici Angie’s Home Cooking Angilo's Pizza Angio's Italian Restaurant Annie Café Annie May's Sweets Café Annie's Pizza Anoosh Bistro Another Place Sandwich Shop Apocalypse Brew Works Applebee's Arata Sushi The Arctic Scoop Arni's Pizza Arno's Pizza Aroma Café Art Eatables Asahi Japanese Asian Buffet Asian Wok Aspen Creek Restaurant Aspire Café At the Italian Table Atlantic No. 5 Atrium Café August moon B.J.'s Restaurant & Brewhouse B3Q BBQ Babie Bac'z Good Grill Baby Mae's Back Yard Burger Bandido Taqueria Mexicana Bar Vetti Baraka Restaurant Barrelhouse on Market Barry's Cheese Steaks Baxter's 942 Bean Bean Street Café Bearno's Beef O'Brady's Bella Roma Bella's Diner Big Al’s Beeritaville Big Ben's BBQ Big Momma's Soul Kitchen Biscuit Belly Bistro 42 Bistro Le Relais Blackbeard Espresso Blackstone Grille Blaze Fast Fire'd Pizza Blind Squirrel Blue Dog Bakery Blue Horse Café Bluegrass Brewing Company Bob's Steak & Chop House Bombay Grill Bonefish Grill Bonnie & Clyde's Pizza

RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED

BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 48 54 64 76 79 50 48 80 55 70 60 48 58 70 70 72 70 79 74 70 69 71 76 76 76 51 56 76 62 74 65 60 74 72 79 60 51 64 69 58 71 79 60 60 56 79 71 70 70 58 56 74 56 56 70 66 62 62 62 55 77 74 70 66 64 66 81 81 60 67 74 65 67 62 6 58 74 73 81 48 60 58 56 56 69 54 75 53 60

MAP #

Fine Dining 3 Gastropub 13 Deli / Sandwich 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 11 Desserts / Bakery 14 Bistro / New American 8 Fine Dining 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 Burgers / Chicken 2 Asian / Chinese 8 Pizza 14 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 14, 16 Asian / Chinese 1 African 1 Asian / Vietnamese 13 African 1 Desserts / Bakery 14, 16 European / Italian 16 African 12 Microbreweries 1 Asian / Japanese 11 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 14 Latin American 1 Bistro / New American 2 Cafes 5 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 4 Barbecue 16 European / Italian 13 Diner / Home Style 9 Pizza 13 European / Italian 4 Asian / Vietnamese 13 Desserts / Bakery 3 Pizza 9, 12 Bistro / New American 7 Deli / Sandwich 1 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining [5] Asian / Japanese 10 Desserts / Bakery 5 Pizza 14 Pizza 4 Cafes 14 Desserts / Bakery 1 Asian / Japanese 3 Asian / Chinese 14 Asian / Chinese 2 Casual Dining 3, 11 Cafes 1 European / Italian 2 Cafes 1 Cafes 5 Asian / Chinese 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 Barbecue 14 Barbecue 12 Barbecue 14 Burgers / Chicken 6 Mexican 1, 13 European / Italian 1 African 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Deli / Sandwich 1, 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Pizza [13] Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5, 3, 14 European / Italian 14 Diner / Home Style 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Barbecue 16 Southern / Soul Food 9 Casual Dining 1 European / Italian 10 European / French 4 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 Upscale Casual 10 Pizza 3, 5, 8, 15 Casual Dining 5 Cafes 2 Cafes 13 Microbreweries 1 Steakhouse 1 Indian 5 Seafood 5 Pizza 12

44 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

Indian ...............................75 Latin American .................76 Mediterranean/Mid East...76 Mexican ...........................77 Microbreweries ................69 Pizza ................................60 Seafood ...........................53 Southern/Soul Food.........66 Southwest/Tex Mex..........78 Steakhouse......................54 Upscale Casual................48

Deli/Sandwich ..................64 Desserts/Bakery ..............79 Diner/Home Style.............65 Entertainment Dining .......69 European/French .............73 European/German ...........73 European/Irish .................74 European/Italian...............74 European/Spanish ...........75 Fine Dining.......................48 Gastropub ........................54

RESTAURANT

Book & Bourbon Southern Kitchen Boombozz Pizza Boomer's Café Boomtown Bootleg Barbecue Co. Borromeo's Pizza & Italian Borsalino Café & Deli Boudreaux's Cajun Cooking Boudreaux's Sno-Balls Boujie Biscuit Bourbon Raw Bourbon's Bistro Bramble Brasserie Provence Bravo!

Brazeiros Churrascaria Breadworks Brendon's Catch 23 Brian's Deli Brick House Tavern + Tap Bridge and Barrel Bristol Bar & Grille Brix Wine Bar Brooke & Billy’s Brooklyn & The Butcher Brownie's 'The Shed' Bruegger's Bagels Bubba's 33 Buca Di Beppo Buckhead Mountain Grill Buck's Bud's Tavern & Barbecue Buffalo Wild Wings Bungalow Joe's Bar & Grill Bunz Restaurant Burger Boy Burger Girl Butcher's Best Butchertown Grocery Butchertown Pizza Hall The Butchertown Social Café 157 Café 223 Café 360 Café Aroma Café Magnolia Café Mimosa Café On Meigs Café Thuy Van Caffe Classico California Pizza kitchen Cancún Captain Ville Captain's Quarters Riverside Grille Carali's Rotisserie Chicken Cardinal Hall Of Fame Café Caribbean Café Carrabba's Italian Grill Casa Fiesta Caspian Grill Persian Café Cast Iron Steakhouse Cat Box Deli Catfish Haven Restaurant Cattleman's Roadhouse Cellar Door Chocolates Chamling Kitchen & Bar Champions Grille Charim Korean Restaurant Charlestown Pizza Co. Charr'd Bourbon Kitchen Check's BBQ & Blues Check's Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar's Scratch Kitchen Cheer King Star The Cheesecake Factory Chef's Cut Pizzeria Chicago Steak & Lemonade The Chicken House Chicken King Chik'n & Mi Chilakiles Oaxacan Breakfast Chili's China 1 China Bistro China Buffet China Café China Castle China Chef China Coast China Dragon

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 66 60 56 58 62 60 56 73 79 58 48 51 66 73 48 54 79 49 64 58 51 49 51 58 54 67 64 67 74 59 48 67 55 67 55 65 65 64 51 60 67 56 56 56 77 59 73 57 73 57 61 77 53 59 76 59 73 74 77 76 54 64 53 54 79 75 59 72 61 49 62 65 57 59 70 49 61 64 55 55 73 77 59 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70

MAP #

Southern / Soul Food 13 Pizza 2,6,15 Cafes 1 Casual Dining 4 Barbecue 11 Pizza 13 Cafes 4 Cajun / Creole 5 Desserts / Bakery 5 Casual Dining 2 Upscale Casual 1 Bistro / New American 2 Southern / Soul Food 1 European / French 5 Upscale Casual 3 Steakhouse 1 Desserts / Bakery 2, 5, 7 Upscale Casual 1 Deli / Sandwich 1 Casual Dining 6 Bistro / New American 16 Upscale Casual 1,2,5 Bistro / New American 8 Casual Dining 1 Steakhouse 14 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6, 14 Deli / Sandwich 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 15 European / Italian 6 Casual Dining 4, 16 Fine Dining 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Burgers / Chicken 3,5,6,8,11,12,15 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 Burgers / Chicken 2 Diner / Home Style 13 Diner / Home Style 3 Deli / Sandwich 10 Bistro / New American 2 Pizza 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Cafes 14 Cafes 16 Cafes 2 Mexican 2 Casual Dining 1 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Cafes 16 Asian / Vietnamese 13 Cafes 2 Pizza 5 Mexican 5 Seafood 9 Casual Dining 10 Latin American 1, 6 Casual Dining 13 Cuban / Caribbean 2 European / Italian 5 Mexican 8 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Steakhouse 16 Deli / Sandwich 1 Seafood 12 Steakhouse 6, 13 Desserts / Bakery 1, 2 Indian 4 Casual Dining 16 Asian / Korean 3 Pizza 16 Upscale Casual 6 Barbecue 5 Diner / Home Style 13 Cafes 3 Casual Dining 8, 13, 15 Asian / Chinese 1 Upscale Casual 3 Pizza 5 Deli / Sandwich 9, 12, 13 Burgers / Chicken 14 Burgers / Chicken 1 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Mexican 13 Casual Dining 2, 4, 5, 8, 12, 13, 15 Asian / Chinese 3, 5 Asian / Chinese 1 Asian / Chinese 15 Asian / Chinese 8, 13 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 11 Asian / Chinese 13 Asian / Chinese 12

RESTAURANT

China Garden China Inn China King China Star China Taste Chinese Express Chipotle Mexican Grill Choi's Asian Food Market Chong Garden Chopsticks Chopsticks House Christi's Café Chubby Ray's Louisville Pizza Co. Chung King Palace Chuy's Ciao City Barbecue City Café Clarksville Seafood Clay Oven Clifton Donuts Clucker's Wings Coals Artisan Pizza Coconut Beach Tacos Coffee Crossing The Coffee Zone Cold Smoke Bagels Cold Stone Creamery Come Back Inn The Comfy Cow Common Table Con Huevos CoreLife Eatery Corner Corner Café Cottage Café Cottage Inn Couvillion Cox's Hot Chicken Crave Café & Catering Cravings Ala Carte Creekside Outpost & Café Crème De Lou Crescent Hill Craft House Cricket's Café Crystal's Southern Food & Spirits Cuba y Mas Culver's Cumberland Brews Cunningham's Creekside Cup of Joy Cuvée Wine Table D. Nalley's Daddy Rich's Daisy Mae's Dakshin Indian Restaurant DaLat's Gateaux & Bakery Danish Express Pastries Danny Mac's Pasta & Pizza Dasha Barbours Bistro Dave & Buster's Dave & Peg's Copper Kettle Day's Espresso Decca Del Frisco's Derby Café Express Derby City Pizza Derby Dinner Playhouse Desserts By Helen Diamond Pub & Billiards Diamond Street Grub & Hops Difabio's Casapela Dino's Dino's Bakery DiOrio's Pizza & Pub Dish On Market Ditto's Grill Divine Treats Dixie Chicken Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Doc Crow's Donum Dei Brewery Double Dogs Double Dragon Double Dragon 9 Double Dragon II Down One Bourbon Bar Downtowner Deli Dragon Café Dragon King's Daughter Drake's Dundee Tavern East Star Buffet Eat A Pita Eatz Vietnamese Restaurant Eddie Merlot's Egg Roll Machine Eggs Over Frankfort Ehrler's Ice Cream Eiderdown El Caporal El Mariachi El Molcajete El Mundo El Nopal El Rinconcito El Rio Grande El Sabor de Cuba El Sinaloa Mexican Restaurant El Sombrero El Taco Loco El Taco Luchador El Tarasco El Torazo El Toro Cantina & Grill El Vaquero Endless Summer Coffee Company The English Grill Equus & Jack's Restaurant Exchange Pub + Kitchen Executive Bistro The Falafel House Falafel Oasis Falls City Taproom Family Ties Famous Dave's Fante's Coffee Farm to Fork Café Fat Jimmy's FDKY BBQ

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 70 70 70 70 70 70 77 71 70 70 70 57 61 70 78 74 62 57 53 75 79 55 61 77 81 81 64 79 74 79 59 77 59 54 57 65 65 73 55 57 66 57 79 54 57 66 76 55 69 53 57 51 65 55 66 75 79 64 61 66 69 65 81 49 54 57 61 69 79 67 67 74 55 80 61 51 51 80 55 55 49 69 59 70 70 70 54 64 70 71 67 67 70 76 73 54 70 51 80 73 77 77 77 77 77 76 77 73 77 77 77 77 77 77 77 77 81 48 49 54 65 76 76 67 55 62 81 57 61 62

MAP #

Asian / Chinese 13 Asian / Chinese 13 Asian / Chinese 4, 6 Asian / Chinese 3 Asian / Chinese 16 Asian / Chinese 12 Mexican 1, 2, 5, 8 Asian / Japanese 5 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 1 Asian / Chinese 9, 13 Cafes 12 Pizza 6 Asian / Chinese 1 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,15 European / Italian 2 Barbecue 5 Cafes 1, 13 Seafood 15 Indian 5 Desserts / Bakery 2 Burgers / Chicken 14, 16 Pizza 3, 5, 13 Mexican 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Coffee / Tea Houses 5 Deli / Sandwich 1 Desserts / Bakery 6, 16 European / Italian 1 Desserts / Bakery 2,5,13 Casual Dining 9 Mexican 2, 8 Casual Dining 15 Gastropub 1 Cafes 5 Diner / Home Style 5 Diner / Home Style 13 Cajun / Creole 13 Burgers / Chicken 16 Cafes 2 Cafeterias / Buffet 1 Cafes 14 Desserts / Bakery 1 Gastropub 2 Cafes 15 Southern / Soul Food 6 Latin American 11 Burgers / Chicken 6, 13, 15 Microbreweries 2 Seafood 10 Cafes 9 Bistro / New American 8 Diner / Home Style 1 Burgers / Chicken 1 Southern / Soul Food 14 Indian 11 Desserts / Bakery 13 Deli / Sandwich 3 Pizza 2 Southern / Soul Food 1, 2 Entertainment Dining 3 Diner / Home Style 5 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Upscale Casual 1 Steakhouse 3 Cafes 13 Pizza 2, 12, 13 Entertainment Dining 16 Desserts / Bakery 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2, 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 European / Italian 2 Burgers / Chicken 4 Desserts / Bakery 9 Pizza 2, 3 Bistro / New American 1 Bistro / New American 2 Desserts / Bakery 15 Burgers / Chicken 9, 12, 13 Burgers / Chicken 1 Upscale Casual 1 Microbreweries 11 Casual Dining 5 Asian / Chinese 9, 2 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 8,11,12,13 Gastropub 1 Deli / Sandwich 1 Asian / Chinese 10 Asian / Japanese 2, 14 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3, 8 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Asian / Chinese 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Steakhouse 1 Asian / Chinese 2 Bistro / New American 2 Desserts / Bakery 1 European / German 13 Mexican 4, 6 Mexican 5 Mexican 13 Mexican 2 Mexican [22] Latin American 11 Mexican 5 Cuban / Caribbean 13 Mexican 14 Mexican 16 Mexican 13 Mexican 1, 2, 3, 6, 13 Mexican 3, 5, 13 Mexican 6 Mexican 5 Mexican 11 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 Fine Dining 1 Upscale Casual 3 Gastropub 14 Diner / Home Style 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Burgers / Chicken 9 Barbecue 6 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Cafes 9 Pizza 5 Barbecue 6

Guide Index_Fall19_Ed2.qxp_Layout 1 8/28/19 7:25 PM Page 45

RESTAURANT

Feast BBQ Fiesta Mexicana Fiesta Time Amigos Fiesta Time Mexican Grill Firehouse Subs Firenza First Watch First Wok The Fish House The Fishery Five Guys Burgers Flanagan's Ale House Flat 12 Bierwerks Flavour Flo’s House of Soul Flora Kitchenette Floyd County Brewing Co. Foko Fork & Barrel Fort Knockers Mess Hall Forty Acres & A Mule Restaurant Four Kings Café Four Pegs Beer Lounge Franco's Restaurant Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot Frank's Meat & Produce Fredrick's Frontier Diner Fuji Asian Bistro Fuji Japanese Steakhouse Full Stop Filling Station Funmi's African Restaurant Galan's Meat Market & Deli Galan's Meat Market & Grille Galaxie Galley at Goodwood Game Gander, An American Grill Garage Bar Gasthaus Gatsby's On Fourth Gelato Gilberto Geraldine's Kitchen Gerstle's Place Gigi's Cupcakes Ginza Asian Bistro Golden Buddha Golden Corral Golden Star Chinese The Golden Wall Goodwood Brewhouse & Live Room Goose Creek Diner Gordon Biersch Brewery Gracious Plenty The Grain Haus Gralehaus Granville Inn Grape Leaf Grassa Gramma Gravely Brewing Co. Great American Grill Great Wall Great Wok Green District Salads Green Leaf Natural Vegetarian Bistro Griff's Grind Burger Kitchen Growler USA Guaca Mole Gustavo's Mexican Grill Guy Fieri's Smokehouse Gypsy's Sports Grille H. M. Frank's Habana Blues Tapas Half Peach Café The Hall on Washington Hammerheads Happy China Happy Dragon Hard Rock Café Harley’s Hardwoodz Bar-B-Q Harrods Creek Tavern Harvest Harvey’s Cheese Havana Bakery Café Havana Rumba Havana Rumba & Tapas Haymarket Bistro Heart & Soy Hearth on Mellwood Heine Brothers' Coffee Heitzman Bakery & Deli Hell or High Water Hibachi Buffet Hibachi Sushi Buffet Hi-Five Doughnuts Highland Coffee Co. Highland Morning Highlands Taproom Grill Highview Ice Cream & Coffee Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar Hill Street Fish Fry Hillcrest Tavern Hilltop Tavern Himalayan Restaurant Hitching Post Inn Holy Grale Holy Smokes Bar-B-Que Home Run Burgers Homemade Pie Kitchen Hometown Pizza Honey Crème Donut Shop Honeybaked Café Hong Kong Fast Food Hooked on Frankfort Hoops Grill and Sports Bar Hooters HopCat Hosanna's Kitchen Hot Box Eatery Howl at the Moon Hull & Highwater IHOP Ikebana Imanka Restaurant Indi's Restaurant International Tap House Inwave Restaurant & Juice Bar The Irish Rover Iroquois Pizza

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 62 77 77 77 64 61 59 70 53 53 55 67 69 73 66 80 69 77 49 67 66 66 54 66 62 64 59 66 71 71 57 70 64 73 54 62 59 59 51 73 59 80 66 67 80 71 70 66 70 70 67 66 69 57 61 54 67 76 74 69 67 70 70 60 60 67 55 67 77 77 63 67 54 73 80 54 52 70 70 52 63 60 49 64 73 73 73 57 71 52 81 80 67 71 71 80 81 57 68 81 71 53 68 68 75 68 52 63 55 80 61 80 64 71 53 68 55 68 66 57 69 53 60 71 70 55 68 60 74 61

MAP #

Barbecue 1, 6 Mexican 4 Mexican 5, 11 Mexican 8 Deli / Sandwich 5, 11 Pizza 5 Casual Dining 3, 5, 6, 15 Asian / Chinese 12 Seafood 2, 5 Seafood 11 Burgers / Chicken 3, 5, 8, 11, 14 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Microbreweries 16 Cajun / Creole 2 Southern / Soul Food 9 Desserts / Bakery 2 Microbreweries 14 Mexican 1 Upscale Casual 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Southern / Soul Food 13 Diner / Home Style 4 Gastropub 13 Southern / Soul Food 12 Barbecue 3 Deli / Sandwich 13 Casual Dining 9 Diner / Home Style 12 Asian / Japanese 12 Asian / Japanese 8 Cafes 1 African 4 Deli / Sandwich 9 Cuban / Caribbean 9 Gastropub 1 Barbecue 1 Casual Dining 2 Casual Dining 5 Bistro / New American 1 European / German 7 Casual Dining 1 Desserts / Bakery 8 Diner / Home Style 16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Desserts / Bakery 6, 8 Asian / Japanese 5 Asian / Chinese 13 Cafeterias / Buffet [4] Asian / Chinese 13 Asian / Chinese 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Diner / Home Style 8 Microbreweries 1 Cafes 2, 10 Pizza 14 Gastropub 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 European / Italian 7 Microbreweries 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Asian / Chinese 2 Asian / Chinese 13 Casual Dining 1, 3 Casual Dining 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Burgers / Chicken 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Mexican 5 Mexican 8, 10 Barbecue 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 Gastropub 16 Cuban / Caribbean 14 Desserts / Bakery 3 Gastropub 1 Bistro / New American 1 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 6 Bistro / New American 1 Barbecue 16 Casual Dining 10 Upscale Casual 1 Deli / Sandwich 1 Cuban / Caribbean 11 Cuban / Caribbean 3,5 Cuban / Caribbean 2 Cafes 1 Asian / Japanese 2 Bistro / New American 2 Coffee / Tea Houses [16] Desserts / Bakery 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 11, 13 Desserts / Bakery 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Cafes 2, 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 11 Asian / Japanese 1, 5 Seafood 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Indian 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 Bistro / New American 2 Barbecue 13 Burgers / Chicken 5, 6, 13 Desserts / Bakery [8] Pizza 7 Desserts / Bakery 14 Deli / Sandwich 3, 11, 14 Asian / Chinese 13 Seafood 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Burgers / Chicken 3,13,12,15,16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Diner / Home Style 9 Cafes 1 Entertainment Dining 1 Seafood 14 Casual Dining 6, 15 Asian / Japanese 2 African 1 Burgers / Chicken [8] Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Casual Dining 5 European / Irish 2 Pizza 13

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 45

Guide Index_Fall19_Ed2.qxp_Layout 1 8/28/19 7:25 PM Page 46

RESTAURANT

Israel’s Delicias de Mexico Gourmet J. Alexander's Redlands Grill J. Graham's Café J. Gumbo's J. Harrod's Jack Binion's Jack Fry's Jade Palace Jasmin Bakery Jasmine Jason's Deli Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse Jeff's Bakery Jeff's Burger Shack Jersey Mike's Subs Jersey's Café Jerusalem Kitchen Jets Pizza Jimmy John's Sub Shop Joe Huber Restaurant Joella's Hot Chicken Joe's Crab Shack Joe's Older than Dirt John O'Bryan's Tavern Johnny Brusco's Pizza The Joy Luck J-Town Beach Jucy's Smokehouse Jumbo Buffet JW Café & Bakery Kai Lana Sushi Kansai Japanese Steakhouse Karem's Kashmir Indian Kathmandu Kitchen and Bar Kayrouz Café Kentucky Taco Company Kern's Korner Kevin's Picnic Khalil's Kim & Bab King Donuts KingFish King's Fried Chicken Kobe Japanese Steak Kolkin Coffee Koreana II L & J Asian Cuisine La Bamba La Bonita Tienda Mexicana La Catrina Mexican Kitchen La Chapinlandia La Chasse La Guanaquita La Hacienda Guadalajara La Lupita La Peche La Popular La Que La Riviera Maya La Rosita Taqueria La Sierra La Suerte La Torta Loca La Tropicana Lady Tron's Las Americas Mexican Restaurant Las Gorditas Las Margaritas Mexican Cuisine L'bads Ice Cream Parlor Le Moo Le Petit Café Lee's Korean Lemongrass Restaurant Lenny's Sub Shop Levee at River House Liège & Dairy Ice Cream + Waffles Lil' Wagners Lilly's Ling Ling Little Caesar's Pizza Little Greek Fresh Grill Liu's Garden Logan's Roadhouse Lola's Kitchen Longboard's Taco & Tiki Longhorn Steakhouse Lonnie's Best Taste Of Chicago Los Aztecas Lotsa Pasta Lou Lou Food + Drink Louie's Hot Chicken & Barbecue Louisville Café India Louisville Cream Louisville Tea Co. Louvino Lucretia's Kitchen Lueberry Acai & Superfoods Luigi's Luna's Rotisserie M+A+F Gallery & Café Ma Zerella's Maa Sha Allah Mack Bros BBQ Mac's Dough House Main Eatery Main Event Bar & Grill Maira Mediterranean Grill Mai's Thai Restaurant Mama's Kitchen Carryout Mango's Bar & Grill Manhattan Grill The Manhattan Project Marco's Pizza Mark T's Slabhouse Marketplace Restaurant Mark's Feed Store Martini Itialian Bistro Martin's Bar-B-Que Joint Masa Japanese Masala Grill Mattie's Kitchen Mayan Café McAlister's Deli McQuixote Books & Coffee Melrose Café The Melting Pot Mercato Italiano Merle's Whiskey Kitchen

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 77 49 57 73 50 48 48 71 80 71 64 54 80 56 64 68 76 61 64 70 56 53 60 68 61 71 68 63 71 57 71 71 60 75 76 57 77 68 57 68 72 80 53 56 71 81 72 71 77 77 77 77 48 76 77 77 57 77 73 77 78 78 78 78 78 64 78 78 78 80 54 57 72 73 64 52 80 66 48 71 61 76 71 54 71 78 54 64 78 64 52 63 76 80 81 52 66 80 61 78 81 61 70 63 61 64 70 76 72 66 78 64 55 61 63 50 63 74 63 72 76 66 78 64 81 58 50 74 52

MAP #

Mexican 14 Upscale Casual 3 Cafes 1 Cajun / Creole 2, 6,16 Upscale Casual 10 Fine Dining 14 Fine Dining 2 Asian / Chinese 5 Desserts / Bakery 4 Asian / Chinese 5 Deli / Sandwich 3, 5 Steakhouse 1 Desserts / Bakery 14, 16 Burgers / Chicken 12 Deli / Sandwich 5, 8 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 15 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Pizza 2, 3, 5, 8, 11 Deli / Sandwich [11] Entertainment Dining 14 Burgers / Chicken 3,5 Seafood 1 Casual Dining 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Pizza 8 Asian / Chinese 2, 8 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6 Barbecue 5 Asian / Chinese 6 Cafes 5 Asian / Japanese 11 Asian / Japanese 6, 15 Casual Dining 8 Indian 2 Indian 4 Cafes 3 Mexican 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Cafes 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Asian / Korean 14 Desserts / Bakery 5 Seafood 7, 16 Burgers / Chicken 9 Asian / Japanese 16 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Asian / Korean 13 Asian / Chinese 10 Mexican 2 Mexican 2 Mexican 14 Mexican 13 Fine Dining 2 Latin American 13 Mexican 13 Mexican 15 Cafes 2 Mexican 13 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Mexican 13 Mexican 5, 13 Mexican 11 Mexican 2 Mexican 13 Mexican 13 Deli / Sandwich 14 Mexican 4 Mexican 11 Mexican 5 Desserts / Bakery 9 Steakhouse 2 Cafes 2 Asian / Korean 13 Asian / Vietnamese 4, 5 Deli / Sandwich 4 Bistro / New American 7 Desserts / Bakery 5, 7 Diner / Home Style 13 Fine Dining 2 Asian / Chinese 5 Pizza [15] Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3 Asian / Chinese 5 Steakhouse 6, 12, 15 Asian / Filipino 2 Mexican 14 Steakhouse 6, 8, 13, 15 Deli / Sandwich 2 Mexican 5, 10 Deli / Sandwich 3 Bistro / New American 3 Barbecue 13 Indian 5 Desserts / Bakery 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 5 Bistro / New American 2, 5 Southern / Soul Food 9 Desserts / Bakery 1 Pizza 1 Mexican 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Pizza 15 African 4 Barbecue 9 Pizza 1, 6 Deli / Sandwich 1 Entertainment Dining 6 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3 Asian / Thai 16 Southern / Soul Food 9 Mexican 3, 6, 13 Deli / Sandwich 1 Gastropub 2 Pizza 14 Barbecue 13 Upscale Casual 1 Barbecue 2, 5, 11, 12, 14 European / Italian 8 Barbecue 2, 8 Asian / Japanese 5 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Southern / Soul Food 9 Mexican 1 Deli / Sandwich [10] Coffee / Tea Houses 9 Cafes 10 Upscale Casual 6 European / Italian 8 Bistro / New American 1

46 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Mesa 70 Mesh 50 Metro Diner 66 Mexa Tacos 78 Mexico City Tacqueria and Restaurant 78 Mi Casita Parrilla Mexicana 78 Mi Sueño 73 Mi Tierra Mexican Restaurant 78 Migo 78 Mike Linnig's 53 Mike's Tavern 68 Milantoni Italian Restaurant 74 MilkWood 48 Mimi's Café 60 Mimo's Pizzeria 61 Mirage Mediterranean Restaurant 76 Mirin 60 Misawa Hibachi & Sushi 72 Miss Ada’s 66 Mission BBQ 63 Mitchell's Fish Market 53 MOD Pizza 61 Moe's Southwest Grill 79 Mojito Tapas Restaurant 75 Molly Malone's 74 Momma's Mustard, Pickles & BBQ 63 Momma's Pizza 61 Monnik Beer Co. 69 More Shenanigan's 74 Morris Deli & Catering 64 Morton's Of Chicago 54 Moya's American Kitchen 60 Mozza Pi 61 Mr. Gatti's 62 Mt. Fuji 72 Mussel & Burger Bar 56 My Favorite Muffin 80 My Old KY Dinner Train 70 Naila's Caribbean Cuisine 73 Naïve 60 NamNam Café 73 Nancy's Bagel Box 64 Napa River Grill 50 Neighborhood Services 52 Neil & Patty's Fireside Grill 68 New Albanian Brewing Co. 62 New Albany Roadhouse 60 New China 71 New Direction Bar & Grill 68 New Wave Burritos 78 Nirvana 68 No Baked Cookie Dough 80 Noche Mexican BBQ 78 Noodles & Company 60 Noosh Nosh 52 Nord's Bakery 80 North End Café 58 North Lime Donuts 80 Nouvelle Bar & Bottle 52 Ntaba Coffee Haus 81 O'Charley's 60 O'Connell's Irish Pub 74 O'Dolly's 66 Oishii Sushi 72 Old Chicago 62 Old Hickory Inn 68 Old Louisville Chili Bowl 60 Old Louisville Tavern 68 Old School NY Pizza 62 Old Spaghetti Factory 74 Old Stone Inn 50 Olé Frijole 78 Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 63 O-Line Sports Grill 68 Olive Garden 74 Olive Leaf Bistro 52 Ollie's Trolley 56 Onion Restaurant & Tea House 71 Orange Clover Kitchen 58 Oriental Café 71 Oriental House 71 Oriental Star 71 Original Impellizzeri's 62 Osaka Sushi Bar 72 O'Shea's Irish Pub 74 Oskar's Slider Bar 56 Ostra 52 Outback Steakhouse 54 P.F. Chang's China Bistro 52 Palatucci's Italian American Ristorante 74 Panchitos Ice Cream 80 Panda China 71 Panda Express 71 Panera Bread Co. 64 Papa Murphy's Pizza 62 Parlour 62 Pasha's Mediterranean 76 Passtime Fish House 53 Patrick O'Shea's 74 Pat's Steak House 54 Paul's Fruit Market 64 Payne Street Bakehouse 64 Pearl Street Game & Coffee House 81 Pearl Street Taphouse 68 Pearl Street Treats 80 Peking City Express 71 Penn Station 64 Peppers Bar and Grill 68 Pesto's Italian 74 Pho Ba Luu 73 Pho Café 73 Pho Phi 73 Pieologoy 62 Pin + Proof 70 Piña Fiesta Mexican Grill 78 Pints&Union 68 Pita Pit 76 Pizza Bar 62 Pizza Donisi 62 Pizza King 62 Pizza Lupo 62 Pizza Place 62 Please & Thank You 81 Plehn's Bakery 80 PokeHana 72 Polly Freeze 80 Ponderosa Steakhouse 54 Porch Kitchen & Bar 68 Porcini 74 Porkland BBQ 63 Portage House 60

MAP #

Entertainment Dining 14 Upscale Casual 3 Diner / Home Style 11 Mexican 1, 3 Mexican 16 Mexican 1, 6 Cuban / Caribbean 4, 13 Mexican 5, 7 Mexican 2 Seafood 12 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 European / Italian 6 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 5 Pizza 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Casual Dining 2 Asian / Japanese 11 Southern / Soul Food 1 Barbecue 3, 15 Seafood 8 Pizza 4 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,6,8,11 European / Spanish 7 European / Irish 2, 3 Barbecue 3, 5 Pizza 15 Microbreweries 13 European / Irish 4 Deli / Sandwich 1, 2 Steakhouse 1 Casual Dining 6 Pizza 5 Pizza 12, 13, 15 Asian / Japanese 13 Burgers / Chicken 1, 6 Desserts / Bakery 5 Entertainment Dining 13 Cuban / Caribbean 15 Casual Dining 2 Asian / Vietnamese 3 Deli / Sandwich 1 Upscale Casual 5 Bistro / New American 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Pizza 14 Casual Dining 14 Asian / Chinese 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 Mexican 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Desserts / Bakery 6 Mexican 2 Casual Dining 6, 8, 13 Bistro / New American 7 Desserts / Bakery 13 Cafes 2 Desserts / Bakery 13 Bistro / New American 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Casual Dining 3,6,8,13,12 European / Irish 11 Diner / Home Style 13 Asian / Japanese 4 Pizza 6, 8 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Casual Dining 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Pizza 5 European / Italian 1 Upscale Casual 6 Mexican 11 Barbecue 11 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 8 European / Italian 6,8,11,15 Bistro / New American 16 Burgers / Chicken 1 Asian / Chinese 14 Cafes 16 Asian / Chinese 4 Asian / Chinese 3 Asian / Chinese 13 Pizza 1, 2, 5, 10 Asian / Japanese 1, 2 European / Irish 2 Burgers / Chicken 13 Bistro / New American 2 Steakhouse 3,8,11,13,15 Bistro / New American 5 European / Italian 2 Desserts / Bakery 2, 13 Asian / Chinese 10 Asian / Chinese 5, 6, 8, 15 Deli / Sandwich [10] Pizza [10] Pizza 16 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 4 Seafood 6 European / Irish 1 Steakhouse 2 Deli / Sandwich 3, 4, 5, 7 Deli / Sandwich 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Desserts / Bakery 16 Asian / Chinese 3 Deli / Sandwich [17] Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 European / Italian 1 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Asian / Vietnamese 3 Asian / Vietnamese 3 Pizza 6 Entertainment Dining 1 Mexican 12 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Pizza 1 Pizza 13 Pizza 14, 16 Pizza 2 Pizza 4 Coffee / Tea Houses 1, 2 Desserts / Bakery 3 Asian / Japanese 1 Desserts / Bakery 14 Steakhouse 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 European / Italian 2 Barbecue 1 Casual Dining 16

RESTAURANT

Potbelly Sandwhich Shop Primo's Delicatessen Proof On Main Prospect Café Puerto Vallarta Purrfect Day Cat Café Qdoba Mexican Grill Queen of Sheba Queue Café Quick Wok Quill's Coffee Quizno's Subs Rafferty's of Louisville Railbirds Hot Chicken Raising Cane's Ramen House Ramiro's Cantina Ramiro's Cantina Express Ramsi's Café Rawnaissance Desserts Recbar Red Hog Red Hot Roasters Red Robin Red Sun Chinese Restaurant Red Top Gourmet Hot Dogs Red Yeti Brewing Co. Rice Bowl Rice Box River City Drafthouse River House Restaurant River Road BBQ Riverside Café Roadrunner Kitchen ROC Restaurant Romano's Macaroni Grill Roof Top Grill Roosters Rootie's Sports Bar Roots Royal's Hot Chicken Rubbie's Southside Grill Rubbin' Butts BBQ Ruby Tuesday Rumors Raw Oyster Bar Ruth's Chris Steakhouse Rye S Bar Sabor Latino Safai Coffee Safai Coffee Saffron's Safier Mediterranean Deli Saint's Sake Blue Sakura Blue Sala Thai Sal's Pizza & Wings Salsarita's Fresh Cantina Sam's Food & Spirits Sam's Gyro Samurai Sandi's Kitchen Sante Fe Grill Sapporo Japanese Grill Sarang Sarino Savannah Restaurant Scarlet's Bakery Scene Schlotzky's Deli Seafood Lady Seeds & Greens Deli Selena's At Willow Lake Tavern Señor Iguana's Sergio's World Beers Seviche A Latin Restaurant Shack In The Back BBQ Shady Lane Café Shahar Café Shalimar Indian Shark's Seafood Shenanigan's Irish Grille Shine's Diner Shiraz Mediterranean Grill Shirley Mae's Café Shogun Shoney's Shreeji Indian Vegetarian Sichuan Garden Sicilian Pizza & Pasta Sidebar The Silly Axe Café The Silver Dollar Silvio's Italian Restaurant Simply Thai Sir Dano's Pizza Parlor Sister Bean's Six Forks Burger Co. Skyline Chili Smashburger Smoke & Rye Smokey Bones BBQ SnoWhat Sol Aztecas Somewhere Louisville Soul Food Dining Soupy's Southern Express Southern Hospitality Spaghetti Shop Spinelli's Pizzeria The Sporting News Grill The Sports & Social Club Spring St. Bar & Grill Standard Plate & Pour, The Star Sushi Starbucks Coffee Starlight Café Starlight Coffee Co. Starving Artist Café State Donuts Steak & Bourbon Steak 'n Shake Steel City Pops Steve O's Italian Kitchen Stevens & Stevens Deli Stoney River Storming Crab Stout Burgers & Beer Stricker's Café

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 64 64 50 58 78 58 78 70 58 71 81 64 60 56 56 72 78 78 58 80 68 58 81 56 71 56 69 72 71 68 50 63 58 65 74 74 73 56 68 72 56 63 63 60 53 54 50 60 76 81 81 76 76 68 72 72 72 62 79 60 76 72 66 78 72 72 74 56 80 66 65 73 65 73 78 68 48 64 58 58 76 54 74 66 76 66 72 60 76 71 62 52 58 52 74 72 62 81 56 60 56 52 64 80 78 52 66 65 66 66 74 62 68 68 68 55 72 81 58 81 58 80 54 56 80 75 65 54 73 56 58

MAP #

Deli / Sandwich 1, 6, 8 Deli / Sandwich 14 Upscale Casual 1 Cafes 10 Mexican 11, 14, 16 Cafes 2 Mexican [17] African 4 Cafes 1 Asian / Chinese 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 1, 2, 3, 13, 14 Deli / Sandwich 1, 5,14,15 Casual Dining 3 Burgers / Chicken 13 Burgers / Chicken 2, 5, 6, 8, 11, 12 Asian / Japanese 2 Mexican 2 Mexican 16 Cafes 2 Desserts / Bakery 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Cafes 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Burgers / Chicken 3, 8, 15 Asian / Chinese 4 Burgers / Chicken 13 Microbreweries 16 Asian / Korean 14 Asian / Chinese 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Upscale Casual 7 Barbecue 7 Cafes 16 Deli / Sandwich 14 European / Italian 2 European / Italian 5 Cuban / Caribbean 1, 9 Burgers / Chicken [6] Bar & Grill / Taphouse 8 Asian / Japanese 2 Burgers / Chicken 1 Barbecue 13 Barbecue 14 Casual Dining 6 Seafood 5 Steakhouse 3 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 12 Latin American 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Asian / Japanese 11 Asian / Japanese 3 Asian / Thai 11 Pizza 5 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,5 Casual Dining 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Asian / Japanese 5 Diner / Home Style 12 Mexican 13 Asian / Japanese 2 Asian / Korean 2 European / Italian 13 Burgers / Chicken 13 Desserts / Bakery 1, 3, 13 Southern / Soul Food 1 Deli / Sandwich 8 Cajun / Creole 1, 13 Deli / Sandwich 14 Cajun / Creole 5 Mexican [5] Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Fine Dining 2 Barbecue 13 Cafes 7 Cafes 2 Indian 6 Seafood 4 European / Irish 2 Southern / Soul Food 9 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 8, 13 Southern / Soul Food 1 Asian / Japanese 6, 8 Casual Dining 13 Indian 6 Asian / Chinese 6 Pizza 1, 11 Bistro / New American 1 Cafes 2 Bistro / New American 2 European / Italian 3 Asian / Thai 3, 5 Pizza 15 Coffee / Tea Houses 13 Burgers / Chicken 13 Casual Dining 2, 3, 6 Burgers / Chicken 1, 5, 13 Bistro / New American 14 Barbecue 6 Desserts / Bakery 13 Mexican 2, 11 Bistro / New American 2 Southern / Soul Food 13 Deli / Sandwich 4 Southern / Soul Food 13 Southern / Soul Food 9 European / Italian 14 Pizza 1, 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Gastropub 14 Asian / Japanese 16 Coffee / Tea Houses [36] Cafes 14 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Cafes 5 Desserts / Bakery 8 Steakhouse 5 Burgers / Chicken 13, 15 Desserts / Bakery 2, 3 European / Italian 2 Deli / Sandwich 2 Steakhouse 8 Cajun / Creole 15 Burgers / Chicken 2 Cafes 16

Guide Index_Fall19_Ed2.qxp_Layout 1 8/28/19 7:25 PM Page 47

RESTAURANT

Sub Station II Sue's Touch of Country Sugar & Spice Donut Shop Sullivan’s Tap House Sunergos Coffee SuperChefs Superior Market & Deli Sushi Master Sway Sweet Frog Sweet Peaches Sweet Peaches 2 Roll Sweet Stuff Bakery Sweet Surrender Sweets By Morgan Taco Choza Taco City Taco Tico Taj Palace Tandoori Fusion TanThai Restaurant Taqueria La Mexicana Tavern On Fourth Taylor's Cajun Meat Co. Taziki's Mediterranean Cafe Tea Station Chinese Bistro Texas Roadhouse TGI Friday's Thai Café Thai Noodles The Back Door The Bakery The Bard's Town The Block Gourmet Deli The Café The Celtic Pig The Champagnery The Cheddar Box The Cheddar Box Too The Chicken Box The ChillBurger The Corner The Cozy Kitchen The Eagle The Earl The Fat Lamb The Fudgery The Goat The Hub Louisville The Library The Pearl The Pine Room The Post The Spot The Sword & the Scone The Table The Water Company The Wright House Bar B Q + Eatery Thelma's Deli Tikka House Tim Tam Tavern Time 4 Thai Tin Roof Toast on Market ToGo Sushi Tokyo Japanese Tomo Japanese Restaurant Tony Impellizzeri's Toonerville Tavern Topp't Pizza & Chopped Salad Town Troll Pub Under The Bridge Tsubaki Sushi & Bar Tucker's Tumbleweed Tuscany Italian Restaurant Twig & Leaf Union 15 Uptown Café Varanese Verbena Café V-Grits Vic's Café Victoria Mexican Restaurant Vietnam Kitchen Village Anchor Pub & Roost Ville Chicken and Seafood Vinaigrette Salad Kitchen Vincenzo's Vint Coffee Vis a Vis Bar & Grill Volare W.W. Cousin's Wagner's Pharmacy Waterfront Wine & Spirits Way Cool Café Wei Wei Chinese Express West Point Pizza Which Wich?

Whiskey Dry Wick's Pizza Wild Dog Rose Tea Boutique Wild Eggs Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion Williams Bakery Wiltshire at Logan Street Market Wiltshire at the Speed Wiltshire On Market Wiltshire Pantry Bakery and Café The Wing Zone Wingstop World of Beer Yafa Café Yamato Japanese Steak House Yang Kee Noodle Yellow Cactus Yen Ching Yoki Buffet You-Carryout-A Yummy China Yummy Pollo Zanzabar Za's Pizza Zaxby's Zeggz Amazing Eggs Ziba's Bistro Zoe's Kitchen Zoup!

Z's Oyster & Steak Bar

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 65 66 80 68 81 60 65 72 50 80 65 65 80 80 80 78 78 78 76 76 72 78 68 73 76 71 54 60 72 72 68 80 70 65 58 74 52 58 58 56 56 62 66 56 68 52 80 68 52 68 68 52 62 60 81 58 69 64 65 76 69 72 69 60 72 72 72 62 62 62 75 69 72 60 79 75 60 62 50 50 58 66 58 78 73 52 54 65 48 81 69 75 56 66 52 58 71 62 65 56 62 81 58 72 80 58 52 50 58 56 56 55 76 72 71 78 71 71 71 71 77 69 62 56 58 70 76 65 48

MAP #

Deli / Sandwich 13 Southern / Soul Food 12 Desserts / Bakery 11 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Coffee / Tea Houses 1, 13 Casual Dining 2 Deli / Sandwich 1 Asian / Japanese 8 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts / Bakery 15 Deli / Sandwich 9 Deli / Sandwich 9 Desserts / Bakery 14 Desserts / Bakery 2 Desserts / Bakery 16 Mexican 3 Mexican 2 Mexican 12 Indian 8 Indian 8 Asian / Thai 14 Mexican 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Cajun / Creole 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3, 5 Asian / Chinese 8 Steakhouse 2, 5, 12, 13, 15 Casual Dining 1 Asian / Thai 7 Asian / Thai 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Desserts / Bakery 4 Entertainment Dining 2 Deli / Sandwich 5 Cafes 1 European / Irish 1 Bistro / New American 2 Cafes 3 Cafes 3 Burgers / Chicken 12 Burgers / Chicken 15 Pizza 8 Diner / Home Style 2 Burgers / Chicken 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Bistro / New American 2 Desserts / Bakery 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 Bistro / New American 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Bistro / New American 10 Pizza 13 Casual Dining 6 Coffee / Tea Houses 6 Cafes 9 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Barbecue 14 Deli / Sandwich 1 Indian 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Asian / Thai 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Casual Dining 1, 14 Asian / Japanese 5 Asian / Japanese 7 Asian / Japanese 14 Pizza 14 Pizza 1 Pizza 13, 14 European / Italian 16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Asian / Japanese 5 Casual Dining 14 Southwest / Tex Mex [8] European / Italian 13 Casual Dining 2 Pizza 13 Upscale Casual 7 Upscale Casual 2 Cafes 8 Southern / Soul Food 2 Cafes 14 Mexican 4 Asian / Vietnamese 13 Bistro / New American 5 Seafood 13 Deli / Sandwich 5 Fine Dining 1, 4 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 European / Italian 2 Burgers / Chicken 3 Diner / Home Style 13 Bistro / New American 1 Cafes 1 Asian / Chinese 1 Pizza 12 Deli / Sandwich 6, 8, 14 Burgers / Chicken 1 Pizza 2, 4, 6, 14 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Cafes 1, 3, 5, 15 Asian / Japanese 2 Desserts / Bakery 15 Cafes 1 Bistro / New American 13 Upscale Casual 1 Cafes 2 Burgers / Chicken 4, 13 Burgers / Chicken 6, 12 Gastropub 8 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Asian / Japanese 14 Asian / Chinese 5 Mexican 14 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 15 Asian / Chinese 11 Latin American 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Pizza 2 Burgers / Chicken 5, 12, 13, 14, 16 Cafes 5 African 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3,8 Deli / Sandwich 1 Fine Dining 5

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 47

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 48

GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15-$20 $$ = $9-$14 $$$$ = $21 & up RED = Advertiser

h = Late Night

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

p = Full Bar

OPEN TILL/PAST 11 PM

f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise).

All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 8969570. 211 Clover Lane has been tucked away across the railroad tracks in St. Matthews, in the corner of a little cluster of upscale shops for nearly three decades. Those who know how to find it enjoy drinks in a quiet elegant lounge, and dine off seasonal menus from Chef Allen Heintzman, who, along with owner Andrew Smith, keeps 211 Clover Lane among the town’s top tables. $$$$ Br L D pf 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Since taking over this Old Louisville landmark restaurant over a decade ago, Edward Lee has become a Food TV fixture and opened new restaurants. Kevin Ashworth is the Executive Chef at this perennial top table and continues the adventurous prix-fixe menu. The Wednesday a la carte nights allow sampling the menu at a more modest price point. $$$$ D pf BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant and understated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower Apartments is overseen by Chef Allen Sims, who has kept long-standing favorites like the crispy fish and spicy Cantonese noodles but has put his own stamp on the menu with items like fried chicken livers, beet and pear salad, short ribs Wellington and prosciutto-wrapped lamb chops. Rick Bartlett continues his long tenure at the piano during dinner. $$$ L D hpfe ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. Executive Chef James Adams oversees the formal dining room in one of downtown’s historic hotels.

The Hot Brown is still on the menu, but new dishes tempt visitors and old timers: roasted cauliflower with quinoa and mushrooms, crispy skin duck and a vegetarian harvest plate built around pesto risotto. The chef’s table in the kitchen is still a great place for a special party. $$$ D p JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. When you hit it big at the Horseshoe Casino, Binion’s has everything a high roller craves. Start with oysters Rockefeller or shrimp cocktail, French onion soup or crab bisque. Then, choose Chilean sea bass, lobster tail, rack of lamb or a choice of prime steak, including Wagyu tenderloin. $$$$ D p JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Inside its unprepossessing exterior is one of Louisville’s longestrunning top tables. Seating is tight but the food is consistently excellent. Chef Steve Gustafson has continued classic menu items that regulars love (crab cakes, shrimp 48 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

and grits, lamb shank with polenta) and worked in newer items (caramelized squash pasta, charred lemon chicken). $$$$ L D hpe LA CHASSE 1359 Bardstown Rd., 822-3963. Chef Kristina Dyer joins front-of-the-house man Isaac Fox in creating the ambience of a fine European country inn in the heart of the Highlands. The frequently-changing menu always includes some game dishes (rabbit, wild boar), harder-tofind items like sweetbreads and octopus, and unusual salads. $$$$ D hp LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution for more than a quarter-century under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, Lilly’s continues to be as fresh as the locally-sourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus. Her frequent special wine dinners are among the more affordable and creative in the area. $$$$ Br L D p MILKWOOD 316 W. Main St., 584-6455. Owner Edward Lee has made the downstairs space at Actors Theatre a dining destination. The menu, now under the control of Glenn Dougan, blends Asian and Southern influences (smoked chicken wings, gochujang fried chicken, braised black BBQ pork shoulder, ramen noodles) and has received national attention. $$$ D p SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers an eclectic range of Latin American dishes in addition to its namesake, the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices. Continuing to get notice throughout the Southeast for his imaginative cooking, he is setting a standard of cool for the Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ D hpf VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ L D hpe Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000. This long-standing suburban upscale steak and oyster concept offers splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience. $$$$ L D hp

8UP ELEVATED DRINKERY AND KITCHEN 350 W. Chestnut St. (Hilton Garden Inn), 631-4180. This rooftop restaurant and bar above the hotel at the corner of Fourth and Chestnut has three elegant areas - an upscale casual dining room, the bar with a separate kitchen and menu, and an expansive outdoor patio that overlooks downtown.

The bar kitchen’s two wood-fired ovens offer small plates to nibble while sipping; the main kitchen serves fine dinners. $$$ B D hpf BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, 228-6962. Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell’s comfortable, casual restaurant in the Prospect Center continues to please regulars and to find new fans. The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ Br D pf BOURBON RAW 446 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-9009. This bar and restaurant in Fourth Street Live! features a raw seafood bar, an eclectic Southern menu, special Bourbon dinners and more than 85 Bourbons. The classy interior includes a 57-foot marble bar top, and an outdoor patio area. $$$ Br L D hp BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491.

Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Roman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ Br L D hpf

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 49

BRENDON’S CATCH 23 505 S. Fourth St. (Embassy Suites), 909-3323. This restaurant inside Embassy Suites hotel has a strong seafood focus: “wild caught” Hawaiian tuna, king crab, Chilean sea bass, fresh oysters, black grouper, and the famous Brendon’s seafood tower. The setting is a relaxed but elegant atmosphere; other choices include steak and Low Country cuisine. $$$ D hp BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 456-1702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant renaissance, Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now, with three venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger. $$ Br L D hpf CHARR’D BOURBON KITCHEN & LOUNGE 1903 Embassy Square Blvd. (Marriott Louisville East), 4911184. The J’town Marriott Hotel’s restaurant is on the Urban Bourbon Trail. Chef Raquel Romero’s eclectic menu offers chicken-fried pork shank, Kentucky Kobb salad, and several dishes (Buffalo Trace Reuben, Makers Mark ribs) that incorporate some of the bar’s 75 offerings of Bourbon. $$$ Br L D hp THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd. (Mall St. Matthews), 897-3933. One of 175 outlets of the California-based chain, this popular restaurant maintains a large and diverse menu that entices and satisfies a wide range of diners. Food quality is above average for this kind of restaurant chain, though its namesake cheesecakes are baked in California and North Carolina. $$$ Br L D hpf DECCA 812 E. Market St., 749-8128. Decca’s handsomely re-done 19th-century building, its serene garden, its classy basement bar and breezy second-floor eating balcony are all fun. But Chef Anne Pettry’s inventive, locally-sourced menu combined with the restaurant’s wine program make it a classy place to dine. $$$$ D hpfe DOC CROW’S 127 W. Main St., 587-1626. Doc Crow’s solidly anchors the dining choices on Whiskey Row. Oysters from both coasts, raw and fried, fried green tomatoes, pork rinds, shrimp and grits, all served in a handsome renovation of one of Main Street’s classic castiron front buildings. $$ L D hp EQUUS & JACK'S RESTAURANT | LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. Louisville institutions for more than 30 years under the ownership of the late culinary icon Dean Corbett, Jared Matthews now runs both the restaurant and Jack’s Lounge. Matthews has made some physical updates, but has striven to keep the restaurant’s and the lounge’s classic upscale casual atmosphere and approachable menu.

Signature dishes remain – the loaded nachos, crab cakes and mushroom fumé – and satisfying entrées like Yankee pot roast, beer-braised chicken, and Parmesan-crusted sea bass. $$$ D p FORK & BARREL 2244 Frankfort Ave., 907-3675.

Chef/owner Geoffrey Heyde serves upscale modern American cuisine in upper Clifton, with an emphasis on local ingredients, craft cocktails and southern hospitality.

Look for pork shank with roasted garlic grits, F&B dip, buttermilk-soaked and cornmeal dusted chicken livers and chocolate bourbon truffles. $$$ D hp HARVEST 624 E. Market St., 384-9090. This true farm-totable restaurant celebrates its local suppliers with photo murals on the walls. Chef Jeff Dailey’s seasonal menus, using ingredients sourced within a 100-mile radius, are tweaked monthly, but you can always find the buttermilk fried chicken, several seasonal pastas and catfish from Kentucky Lake. $$$ Br D hpf J. ALEXANDER’S REDLANDS GRILL 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashvillebased chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ D hp

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 49

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 50

J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. This twodecade-old Prospect mainstay is now owned by long-time employees Charissa Humston and Jenny Neaveill. The substantial menu—grilled steaks and chops, pasta, seafood, fried green tomatoes and chicken livers with gravy—is served with aplomb in a quiet, comfortable dining room. $$$ D p MARKETPLACE RESTAURANT 651 S. Fourth St., 6253001. Going to a show downtown? Chow down first at Marketplace. The elegant decor, whether at the circular bar, in the serene dining room, or any of the three outdoor spaces will get you in the mood, and the seasonal Italianinfluenced southern cuisine will get you to the curtain well-fed indeed. $$ L D hpf MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125. If you have pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s, The Melting Pot is for you. If you can melt it and dip things in it, it’s probably on the menu. $$$ D hp MESH 3612 Brownsboro Rd., 632-4421. The lush modern building and the casual/elegant menu have made a strong presence in the neighborhood. The cosmopolitan menu includes kung pao calamari, beet salad, Amish chicken and mushroom strudel, all served in an atmosphere of “contemporary elegance and comfort.” $$$ Br L D pf NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 423-5822. An eclectic mix of California-inspired fusion dishes served in a clean, crisp, informally classy atmosphere have made Napa a long-time favorite. Chef Seth Butkus’s lunch offerings range from smoked salmon wontons to beer-battered fish and chips. The lovely patio makes for lazy summer dining on baked goat cheese, vegetable pad Thai or wagyu steak. $$$ Br L D hpf OLD STONE INN AND TAVERN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY. (502) 722-8200. This century-old

50 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

restaurant has taken on renewed popularity and cachet under the ownership of Churchill Downs Executive Chef David Danielson, whose team appreciates its history as much as he does. His menu and service strive to connect the past with the present. Dine in the main rooms, the bar or on the impressive patio. $$$ Br L pf PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St. (21c Hotel), 2176360. Executive Chef Jonathan Searle has kept the bison burger and the charred octopus, favorites from Proof’s start, even as he has put his own stamp on the menu with dishes such as coconut roasted cauliflower steak, ham and clams spaghetti and extensive charcuterie choices. The bar remains one of the hippest in town. $$$ B Br L D hpf RIVER HOUSE RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 3015 River Rd., 897-5000. John Varanese’s river-side restaurant complex is getting more complex as he begins renovations on the upper floor to create new dining and party spaces.

The elegant reimagining of the former boat dealership building befits the always interesting seafood dishes inspired by Nawlins and Charleston, where Varanese began his career. There’s an extensive raw bar, too, and dockside service for boaters. $$$$ Br L D hpf RYE 900 E. Market St., 749-6200. New York hip meets Kentucky farm produce and meats, resulting in a daily menu focused on what is freshest. Dishes show unpretentious flair, served in a sleek East Market Street ambiance. $$ D hpf SWAY 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 581-1234. The handsome dining room on the entry level of the hotel has a bar that opens to Fourth Street in good weather and a menu based on the “Southern Way,” from whence comes the name Sway. The fried chicken, cooked to order, quickly became a signature dish. $$$$ D pf

UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212. The Uptown has been an excellent spot for lunch and bistrostyle dinners for so long that people seem to take it for granted. Those in the know find it an excellent value, for its Highlands location and sophisticated ambience, as well as the eclectic modern menu that includes seasonal small plate selections by long-time chef Matt Weber. $$$ L D hpf VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese’s signature restaurant (he has River House and Levee too) has a slate-backed interior waterfall and a folding front wall that opens in good weather. The lively, international seasonal menu is buttressed by frequent special wine, whiskey or beer dinners. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ D hpfe VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian.)

WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 589-5224.

Understated elegance and creative dishes from Chef Rory O’Connell characterize this NuLu restaurant. The finely crafted small plates menu changes weekly to showcase the best seasonal ingredients. Start with the weekly charcuterie board or cheese plate, followed by a seasonal flatbread or salad, and perhaps a pasta dish. Open Thur.-Sun. only.

Reservations suggested. $$ D pf

502 BAR & BISTRO 10401 Meeting Pl., 742-4772. This sleek, contemporary spot in Norton Commons, has lots of TVs, but the food is several notches above the norm of sports bars. Try Chef Ming Pu’s charred broccoli soup, brown butter sage gnocchi or cauliflower steak. A full bar and signature cocktails, and brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. $$ Br D hpf

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 51

ALEX&NDER 1121 E. Washington St., 561-0267. Dallas McGarity, owner of The Fat Lamb and Portage House, returns food service to the rooftop bar at Copper & Kings Distillery. Dinner is Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays, and brunch and dinner Saturday and Sunday. McGarity’s menu is in process as we go to press, but he is striving, in his words, for “a menu that is elegantly simple without being intimidating, and that can complement the outstanding drinks served in Alex&nder.” $$ Br D pfe ANOOSH BISTRO 4864 Brownsboro Rd., 690-6585.

Anoosh Shariat’s elegant Brownsboro Center space has an eclectic lunch and dinner menu that includes trout provençal, coconut curry tofu, grilled romaine salad, and house-made pastas and risottos. $$ L D p BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838.

Located in an historic Clifton building, Bourbons Bistro stocks a selection of more than 130 bourbons, including a barrel selection program. Chef Jereme McFarland’s bourbon-inspired, seasonally-influenced menu recently has featured tuna poke tacos, cacio e pepe pasta and bourbon bread pudding. $$$ D pf BRIDGE & BARREL 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 206-7170. Bridge & Barrel, offering upscale Southern comfort foods like fried green tomatoes, black-eyed pea hummus, smoked pork shoulder sandwiches, fried chicken and catfish platters. Enjoy it all with sweeping views of the Ohio River and the Louisville skyline. $$ L D pfe BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120. The use of an obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino.

Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ D hpe BUTCHERTOWN GROCERY 1076 E. Washington St., 742-8315. Bobby Benjamin’s restaurant offers house-made pasta and charcuterie, a chef’s table near the kitchen, and dishes such as whole rotisserie chicken and the Grocery steak, a bone-in, 55-day dry-aged ribeye served with black truffle béarnaise. An upstairs entertainment space, Lola, has intimate seating and its own kitchen for late-night noshing. $$$ Br L D hp CUVÉE WINE TABLE 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 242-5200.

Scott Harper and others from the Bristol Bar & Grille organization have made this wine bar and café in the East End a fine stop for after work. Drop in to explore Master Sommelier Harper’s adventurous wine list with tasting pours and small plates of charcuterie, cheeses, salads and snacks from the kitchen. Look for regular casual classes organized on various wine themes. $$ L D hpf DISH ON MARKET 434 W. Market St., 315-0669. Owner Marshall Grissom offers breakfast, lunch and dinner in the comfortable, brick-walled downtown space. Get your day going with eggs, omelets or bread pudding French toast.

Lunch on salads, sandwiches or burgers or choose a dinner entrée (a notable Hot Brown or chicken and waffles) any time of the day or night. $ B Br L D pf DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. This informal Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang.

Don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ Br L D hpf EGGS OVER FRANKFORT 2712 Frankfort Ave., 7094452. Husband and wife team Jackson and Cortney Nave have creatively refurbished this Crescent Hill space into a “very traditional” breakfast spot. Its menu includes omelets, eggs Benedict, waffles and oatmeal, as well as salads and sandwiches for lunch. $ B Br L GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market St., 749-7100. Housed in a former service station in NuLu, Garage Bar serves up draft and bottled craft beers, Bourbons, seasonal cocktails and wine, pizzas from a wood-fired brick oven and Southern

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019

51

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 52

specialties, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients.

The ham flight is not to be missed. $$$ D hpf HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. One of the more unusual restaurant spaces in town, Hammerheads is also one of the hippest. Adam Burress and Chase Murcerino, who share owner and chef duties, fire up their BBQ smoker street-side, and fans far and wide flock to the semibasement space on the edge of Germantown to partake of pulled pork and beef brisket, pork and lamb ribs, roasted duck sandwiches, pork belly BLTs and soft shell crab tacos. $ D h HARD ROCK CAFÉ 424 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs at the local branch of this popular shrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, but you’ll have no complaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ L D hpfe HEARTH ON MELLWOOD 1765 Mellwood Ave., 3652239 The owners of Chik’n & Mi have taken over the classy historic building that recently housed Bistro 1860.

Chef Jason McCollum’s experimental menu offers "modern, new American food with international influences,” focused on shareable plates such as oysters, lamb tartare and vegetable-centric seasonal dishes, served in a space that captures the spirit of an airy coastal, Southern home. $$$ D pf HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd., 459-9939. There are a lot of places to quaff craft beers in town, but Holy Grale’s frequently changing draft selection is among the most esoteric. Couple that with the seasonally adapted menu of small plates and the oddity of being housed in a renovated church and you have a unique dining and drinking experience. $$ L D he LEVEE AT RIVER HOUSE 3015 River Rd., 897-5000. Levee is the more casual, family oriented component to River

House, and part of .John Varanese’s multi-million dollar expansion plan that includes covering one of the patios.

Small plates and other light eats all priced under $15, and entertainment are on offer nightly. The live music program includes an eclectic mix of jazz, blues, salsa and even “beachy music.” $$ D hpfe LOU LOU FOOD + DRINK 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776. Jared Matthews, who also operates Equus and Jack’s Lounge, continues the Café Lou Lou tradition of Nawlins-style Cajun food, but Chef Jon Pauly has added other casual fare including pizza and calzones. $$ Br L D hp LOUVINO 1606 Bardstown Rd., 365-1921, 11400 Main St., 742-1456. These two wine bars have become so popular that owners Chad and Lauren Coulter have opened outlets in Cincinnati and Indianapolis. The seasonal shareable small plates menu and clever organization of the wine list make this a prime spot for a night out with friends. A myriad of wines by the glass are available fresh from their wine-dispensing cruvinet system. $$ Br D pfe MERLE’S WHISKEY KITCHEN 122 W. Main St., 2908888. Tony Palombino’s popular Whiskey Row food and music spot across from the KFC Yum! Center offers live music on a regular basis and a menu that emphasizes tacos and Southern fried chicken. Sides offered include sweet potato casserole, long-cooked green beans and a candied bacon appetizer. 100 bourbons are currently on offer, including handpicked private barrels from Buffalo Trace, Maker’s Mark, Wild Turkey and others. $ L D hpe NEIGHBORHOOD SERVICES 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. This casual eating option in the Omni hotel serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner and offers relaxed indoor and outdoor dining. Enter from the hotel or street. $$$ B L D pf NOOSH NOSH 4816 Brownsboro Ctr., 205-2888. Anoosh Shariat’s second restaurant in the Brownsboro Center is a family-style eatery centered around a rustic stone oven in an open kitchen. Breakfast offers several omelet choices, tikka eggs and tofu florentine. For lunch or dinner, share smoked salmon bruschetta, Nosh nachos or Thai-style mussels, pastas, flatbreads or sandwiches. $$$ B Br L D pf NOUVELLE BAR & BOTTLE 214 S. Clay St., 631-9428.

This French-style wine bar sells 40+ wines by the glass (in 3-, 6- or 9-ounce pours) and 200 to 300 wines by the bottle, focusing on affordable, interesting wines. A selection of beers, ciders, classic cocktails, bourbons and scotches also are available. A small bites menu – cheese, charcuterie, hummus, baked goods – is offered, along with desserts. $ L D hpf OLIVE LEAF BISTRO 130 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 913-1252. Walk over the Big Four bridge for a meal that draws on the rich food traditions of countries ringing the Mediterranean. Olive Leaf Bistro serves everything from spanakopita and falafel to rigatoni bolognese and lobster, shrimp and crab ravioli to burgers, gyros and panini. $$$ L D hpf OSTRA 1758 Frankfort Ave., 915-0160. Adam Burress (Game, Hammerheads, Migo) and partners have taken over the funky Barcode 1758 space in Clifton, serving a menu focused on sustainable food. The seasonal menu includes shellfish, rabbit, locally-sourced poultry and even some unusual sustainable foods, like crickets in the brownies. $$ D pf P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 3277707. This Arizona-based, Chinese-themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinese-style dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$$ L D hpf SIDEBAR AT WHISKEY ROW 129 N. Second St., 3841600. On the west side of Whiskey Row, above Troll Pub under the Bridge, Sidebar focuses on burgers, Bourbon and beer, a potentially boffo combo for those going to or coming from the Yum! Center across the street. The

52 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

emphasis is on craft cocktails served alongside a short but bold selection of sandwiches, appetizers and desserts. $$ L D hpe THE SILVER DOLLAR 1761 Frankfort Ave., 259-9540. In this Clifton honky tonk bar and restaurant, the music, all on vinyl, is the “Bakersfield sound” — a fusion of Mexicali and American roots music. The southern country-style menu with sophisticated nuances has happy fans crowding in most nights. Choose from more than 80 Kentucky Bourbons, ryes, tequila and mescal, but no “foreign whiskey” like Scotch. $$ Br D hpf SMOKE & RYE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, (812) 969-6423.

This eatery focuses on house-ground burgers and BBQ (with buns baked fresh daily on premises) and offers, according to management, “one of the nation’s largest selections of Bourbon and Rye whiskey found under a single roof.” Sip your specialty cocktails or spiked milkshakes while listening to live music. $$$ L D hpe SOMEWHERE LOUISVILLE 1135 Bardstown Rd., 5526942. Now you can dine and have some cocktails, and then slide right next door to Nowhere for late-night fun and games. The kitchen is run by Scott Darnell, formerly of Lilly’s, cooking up an eclectic Southern-inspired menu.

The fare includes beer cheese and pretzels, smoked wings, buttermilk fried chicken and 3 varieties of flatbreads. $$ D hpfe THE CHAMPAGNERY AT ARCHITYPE GALLERY 1764 Frankfort Ave., 896-8050. This Clifton business hosts art shows and now also has a full bar with a focus on more than 120 Champagnes and sparkling wines plus a menu of light bites – oysters, caviar, charcuterie, cheeses, fruit and desserts. $$$ D hp THE FAT LAMB 2011 Grinstead Dr., 409-7499. The first of Chef/owner Dallas McGarity’s dining properties, this comfortable, classy Highlands bistro serves lunch and dinner, focusing on small plates such as risotto fritters, curried squash hush puppies, 5-spice short ribs, and Cajun-spiced scallops. $$ L D hpf THE HUB LOUISVILLE 2235 Frankfort Ave., 777-1505.

Clifton has taken to this sprawling modern restaurant, cocktail bar and adult rec center with gusto. The Southerninspired small plates menu and its specials board of rotating entrees pleases multiple tastes. The bar boasts a big rum and tequila selection, with alcoholic floats a specialty. The lively patio is packed in good weather. $$ D hpfe THE PINE ROOM 6325 River Rd., 528-4422. Augusta Holland is behind the modern incarnation of this classic Prospect restaurant, in the space that most recently was Cast Iron Steakhouse. James Moran has taken over as chef, with a new seasonal menu. Start with, perhaps, the panfried spinach dumplings, then go for the cocomut red curry salmon, or the bone-in pork chop with Bourbon mustard sorghum glaze. The buttermilk fried chicken is still there, too. $$$ Br D hpfe VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 7081850. In the heart of Anchorage is this two-level Eurovillage inspired concept. On the upper level, a French bistro with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs at The Sea Hag the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food-style menu is served lunch and dinner with weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with more than 50 craft and import choices accompany 55 Bourbons to boot. $$$ Br L D hpf WATERFRONT WINE & SPIRITS 222 E. Witherspoon St., 822-3033. This wine shop located in Waterfront Park Place condominium building has a 20-seat bar area serving charcuterie, cheeses and soon, small plates, where you can sample before you buy from the large array of wines and bourbons or a smaller selection of other spirits. Craft beers, too. $ D pfe WILTSHIRE AT THE SPEED 2035 S. Third St., 634-2976.

Susan Hershberg and her team led by Chef Reed Johnson

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 53

bring “artfully inspired, creative and seasonal” breakfast and luncheon fare to the Speed Museum. Open at 10 a.m. for pastries, croissants, coffee and tea, lunch is served until 3 p.m. with soups, salads, sandwiches and entrees such as buckwheat noodle salad with seared salmon. A grab-and-go counter is open until 5 p.m. And now a limited dinner menu is served Fridays when the museum is open until 8 p.m. $$ B Br L pf

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4666.

This franchise concept from the Florida-based Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ D hp CAPTAIN VILLE 2001 Seventh Street Rd., 996-7426. The menu of this Algonquin neighborhood fish house includes perch, cod, salmon and catfish, the best seller. There are crab cakes, too, and sides of fried green tomatoes, fried okra and hush puppies. $ L D h CATFISH HAVEN PAY LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Catfish Haven, a simple, down-home eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County.

Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their payto-fish lake. $$ L D f CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. And now open until 8 p.m. most nights. $ L D CUNNINGHAM’S CREEKSIDE 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. One of the longest-lived restaurants in the city,

Cunningham’s has had several incarnations, and now pulls in old timers and new fans at its Harrod’s Creek location.

There you can find fine fish sandwiches and pub grub, and absorb some of the nostalgia associated with this long-time favorite. $ Br L D hpf THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993. Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best.

Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. And on weekends the space morphs into Café Beignet, serving hearty breakfasts and New Orleans-style beignets. $ Br L D pf THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188. This friedfish eatery has been popular in the St. Matthews neighborhood for going on two decades. The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ L D f HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to find. Its oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ L D f HOOKED ON FRANKFORT 3202 Frankfort Ave., 6909951. The owners of Frankfort Ave Beer Depot now operate this fish house two doors away. The menu features fried fish sandwiches, po’ boys, fish tacos, baskets of shrimp or oysters or frog legs. Clam/conch chowder and seafood gumbo, too, or mac and cheese and grilled cheese sandwiches for those who can’t do fish. $$ L D hp HULL & HIGH WATER 324 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 725-1054. Eric Morris and Garrett Petters are partners in this moderately priced seafood restaurant and bar, a niche that so far has been overlooked in New Albany’s restaurant renaissance. The “approachable, affordable and fun” menu

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

features low-country boils, raw oysters, po’ boys, fish and chips, and a catch of the day. $$ D hpf JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ L D hpf KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 8950544, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-3474.

Fried fish in a family dining setting has made Kingfish a popular favorite for many years. Aficionados of rolled oysters and frog legs can find both here, as well as a large selection of fried and broiled seafood, as dinners and sandwiches. Both locations boast river views. $$ L D hpfe MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. This popular riverside restaurant has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ L D f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 4121818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ L D hpf PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633. If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer, with no frills, this Jeffersontown tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ L D fe RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantilyclad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 53

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 54

original Louisville home of the bucket-of-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ L D pf SHARK’S SEAFOOD 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 450-5775.

Several types of crunchy-breaded fried fish — white fish, shrimp, catfish, salmon — to choose from, as well as wings and side dishes like fried mushrooms and fried okra. $ L Dh VILLE CHICKEN AND SEAFOOD 4322 Poplar Level Rd., 919-8994. The name certainly reveals the focus of this well-kept little neighborhood spot that has re-worked an old Arby’s building. There are crawfish and crab legs, too, corn on the cob and very commendable real Southern sweet tea. $$ L D

BOB'S STEAK & CHOP HOUSE 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. The signature restaurant located off the lobby in the Omni Hotel offers refined service and a decor focused on American thoroughbred racing. A steak menu offers seven prime selections, from ribeye to filet to 28-oz. porterhouse. Seafood, too (crab cakes, scampi, lobster tails), and sumptuous desserts. $$$$ D p BRAZEIROS CHURRASCARIA 450 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 290-8220. This Knoxville-based company’s first satellite location has been a downtown hit. A churrascaria works like this: You choose drinks, visit the salad bar and await visits from “gaucho chefs” who bring yard-long skewers of grilled meats (beef, lamb, sausage) to your table for slicing — as much as you wish — along with side dishes. $$$$ L D pf BROOKLYN & THE BUTCHER 148 E. Market St., New Albany IN. 590-2646. Ian Hall of The Exchange Pub + Kitchen opened this steakhouse in a renovated historic hotel with lots of cool touches: black and white tiles on floor and walls, an open kitchen and a vintage bar counter from an old local Woolworth’s store. The bar program emphasizes bourbon, Scotch and craft beers. The menu includes fresh seafood, small plates and lots of beef — New York strip, bone-in ribeye, flat iron steaks — all as locally sourced as possible. $$$ D pf CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-2298. Buck’s owner Curtis Rader also operates this riverside eatery where the kitchen cooks steaks and sides in cast iron pans at moderate prices. The ambience is upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music,” Rader promises. $$$ D hpf CATTLEMAN’S ROADHOUSE 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-7623, 139 Historical Trail, 543-3574. These local outlets of the small regional chain offer mid-priced beef choices and starters such as fried pickle chips and jalapeño poppers, grilled chicken, salmon, and plenty of sandwiches. $$$ L D hp DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli Ave., 897-7077. Loyal Louisville carnivores continue to fill up this 38-year-old St. Matthews steakhouse, with its brick walls and beamed ceilings. Any red meat enthusiast would know to order the filet or Porterhouse, but only regulars know the glories of something called green phunque. $$$$ D hp EDDIE MERLOT’S PRIME AGED BEEF 455 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 584-3266. Located on the ground floor of the Starks Building is one of the largest dining spaces in town. The Ft. Wayne-based small chain with big ambitions boasts glittering mosaic artwork, a handsome bar and luxurious seating in secluded nooks and corners.

The menu encompasses high end steaks, well-prepared seafood and seasonal specials. $$$$ L D hpe JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 584-0102.

This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ L D hpe 54 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

LE MOO 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. Kevin Grangier of Village Anchor & Pub in Anchorage has re-imagined the space that was for decades KT’s, creating a new interior design he calls “Paris brothel meets vintage warehouse,” a lively and amusing space with lots of steel, neon and velvet, a large bar, and an outdoor patio. Chip Lawrence, sous chef at Village Anchor, is executive chef, devising a Euro-eclectic menu with an emphasis on steaks. $$ Br L D hpfe

dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ L D hp

LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9789, 1540 Alliant Ave., 266-6009.

With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashvillebased chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ L D hp

21ST AMENDMENT TAVERN 1481 S. Shelby St., 6547221. The former Club 21 has been restored and reimagined as a Schitzelburg neighborhood bar with a food menu that is both Kentucky-centric and a nod to longmissing German-American food. In addition to a selection of burgers, look for the baloney burger, a Neighborhood Nosh meat board with braunschweiger and pickled eggs and other retro bar favorites. $$ L D hpf

LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5800, 4813 Outer Loop, 969-9790. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ L D hp

CORNER 102 W. Main St., 583-1888. Corner is the bar and restaurant attached to the chic, contemporary Aloft Hotel downtown. The emphasis here is on the bar, with a wine and cocktail menu longer and more creative than the food side. Still, there are solid bar munchies, from dips and deviled eggs to sandwiches, salads and tacos. $$ B D pf

MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This below-ground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ D hp

CRESCENT HILL CRAFT HOUSE 2636 Frankfort Ave., 895-9400. This beer pub serves only locally-produced beers, and the menu, now overseen by Chef Tim Smith, is focused on local food sources. You’ll find everything from poutine and boiled peanut hummus to vegan Reubens, grilled cauliflower steak and flat iron steak and eggs. There is live music and outdoor dining in season. $$ Br L D hpf

OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 8954329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ D hp PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 896-9234. A local favorite for more than 60 years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets. Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steakhouses in town. $$$$ D pf PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 9646117. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ L D RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The long-standing Louisville location of this New Orleans-based international chain is perched atop the 16-floor Kaden Tower. Ruth’s Chris serves excellent steaks, chops and seafood in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ D hpe STEAK & BOURBON 1321 Herr Ln., 708-2196. Ole Restaurant Group has replaced Artesano Tapas with this affordably-priced premium steakhouse. In addition to the signature 24 oz. cowboy cut Angus ribeye (aged a minimum of 30 days) the menu offers pan-roasted chicken, grilled Verlasso salmon, steak & cheese hand pies, Maryland-style crab cakes and carrot cake with bourbon caramel icing. Try the House Punch or choose from over 100 bourbons, including a reserve list. $$$ L D pf STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ Br D hp TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy. (Green Tree Mall), Clarksville IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy., 448-0705, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600, 13321 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0085, 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8975005. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side

DOWN ONE BOURBON BAR & RESTAURANT 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. Situated down one flight below street level, this cool, shaded watering hole stocks 150-plus Bourbons, local craft beer and serves wines by the glass.

Well-priced bar food like biscuit sandwiches, tacos and Frito Pie make for a quick, satisfying lunch. Bluegrass music several times a week too. $$ L D pfe EXCHANGE PUB + KITCHEN 118 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 948-6501. Owner Ian Hall has made his gastropub in a sumptuously renovated historic building such a fun place to sit and sample the eclectic bistro-style menu that he has had to expand his dining room and patio. Wash things down with something from its substantial beer, wine and cocktails list that even includes house-made ginger ale. $$ L D hpfe FOUR PEGS BEER LOUNGE 1053 Goss Ave., 634-1447.

Twelve craft beers on tap and a 30 bottle beer list bring in the fans, who also appreciate the award-winning veggie burger and other well-priced pub grub such as a chicken and waffle sandwich and an estimable burger with fried green tomatoes and beer sauce. $ D h f GALAXIE 732 E. Market St., 690-6565. The guys behind RYE just down the street now have the Green Building space for a bar dedicated to moderately priced drinks ($7 cocktails are what they are shooting for) and a bar menu of “international-inspired street food,” which was described as “easy to take with you,” so you can nosh as you imbibe. $$ L D hpf GRALEHAUS 1001 Baxter Ave., 454-7075. In the house behind the Holy Grale is Gralehaus, a café and deli. Its breakfast and lunch menu includes biscuit and duck gravy, an open-face short rib sandwich, crepes, and a coffee bar, with house-made sodas, shrubs and kombucha.

Also beers on tap and in the cooler. $$ B Br L f H. M. FRANK'S AN O'SHEA'S PUBLIC HOUSE 355 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 913-1174. Upon gutting the interior and re-building the facade of this 1880’s-era building, the original identity of H.M. Frank’s Dry Goods store was uncovered, a discovery that has given this O’Shea’s outpost its name. The bar is made from repurposed barn wood, there’s an event space upstairs, and upscale bar food is created by Chef John Knightly. $$ L D hpf THE HALL ON WASHINGTON 111 W. Main St., 3841600. Inspired by the conviviality of German beer halls, this Whiskey Row spot serves a menu featuring small

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 55

plates of sausages, charcuterie, cheeses and pickled vegetables, plus beef, lamb, chicken and seafood entrées.

The full bar has dozens of rotating draft beers and ciders, canned and bottled beers. $$ L D hp THE MANHATTAN PROJECT 2101 Frankfort Ave., 7498925. This upscale gastropub has expanded, with a main room now looking out on the lively Cifton streetscape. The new menu includes short rib sliders, chicken and waffles and four kinds of fries. Mac ’n’ cheese has its own menu section listing almost a dozen possible adds ons—from bacon to crab to pork cheek to grilled chicken. TMP has become popular for its brunch, tacos & trivia Tuesdays, and the original space in the rear is a great sports watching or special party venue. $$ Br L D hpfe THE STANDARD PLATE & POUR 207 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 590-1055. The renovated building that until recently housed Gospel Bird is now The Standard. Owners Beau Kerley and Tim Smith characterized their new business as a “pub with elevated food.” Look for Chef Smith’s tried and true favorites – steak and eggs, tomato soup en croute – as well as house-made pork rinds, cheese fritters and beer cheese and pretzels. $$$ Br L D hpfe WORLD OF BEER 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 690-4280. This Florida-based chain serves a wide variety of craft beers and sports a tavern menu that is a few notches above the usual bar food: wings and sandwiches, sure, but also chimichurri meatballs, ahi tuna poke and chipotle BBQ chicken flatbread. Its giant pretzel and beer cheese is a great shared nibbler. $$ L D hpfe

80/20 @ KAELIN’S 1801 Newburg Rd., 200-8020. Burgers are back at the birthplace of the cheeseburger. Chef Matt Staggs's “rustic regional” menu offers 7 burgers and 7 entrées at this complete renovation of the classic Kaelin’s space. There’s a malt shop serving fountain drinks and house-made ice cream on one side, and a family-friendly restaurant and bar on the other. Seating on the spacious patio/porch, and upstairs is a large private room for parties and meetings. $$ L D h pf

and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches, appetizers and salads. $ L D hpf COX'S HOT CHICKEN 134 Spring St., Jeffersonville 5903281. Taking over the space formerly occupied by Big Four Burgers, Cox’s positions itself as a family-friendly sports bar with burgers and sandwiches as well as chicken, with a Goodwood Brewing taproom on the second floor. $ B L D hpf CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001, 1555 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0810, 11801 Interchange Dr., 618-0838. When the signature item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare.

Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain popular. $ L D f DADDY RICH’S 617 W. Oak St., 290-9110. The kitchen incubator Chef Space gave birth to this new Old Louisville soul food spot. Owner Rodrick Martin named it after his late grandfather, who inspired him. The limited cooked to order menu includes chicken wraps, mini-waffles and ten wing flavors.

DINO’S FOOD MART 2601 W. Broadway, 774-4333. This little grocery and convenience store also serves up some of the most popular takeout fried chicken in the West End. $ LD DIXIE CHICKEN 1785 W. Oak St., 690-2748, 3947 Dixie Hwy., 448-2102, 8118 Preston Hwy., 450-5002. A growing fried chicken spot that serves up honest fried chicken and good, standard sides at reasonable prices, Dixie Chicken now has an eat-in outlet on Preston, in addition to their take-out only spots in Old Louisville and on the edge of Shively. $$ L D h DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery, an institution that goes back more than 70 years, hasn’t changed much. It opens early, stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ L D hf

FAMILY TIES 1809 W. Jefferson St., 915-7069, 1030 Cecil Ave., 907-6548. This pair of restaurants has a dual personality. The Jefferson St. location is more sports bar with a menu of burgers, wings, hot dogs and brats. The Cecil Ave. location offers more of the same, but the main focus is on barbecue. $ B L D h FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany IN, 944-9958, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702, 4226 Shelbyville Rd., 891-8848, 4917 Outer Loop, 8223702, 13303 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1027. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshly-grilled burgers, big smoky kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries and a cheery rock’n’roll sensibility. $ L D GRIND BURGER KITCHEN 829 E. Market St., 851-7333.

Owners Liz and Jesse Huot are firmly established now in NuLu, giving them much-needed parking, as well as a full bar. In addition to their signature burgers, the Huots have a chopped chicken sandwich, an “adult” grilled cheese made with Brie and Gruyere and a couple of salad choices. $$ L D f HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2723 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403, 303 W. Cardinal Blvd., 708-1818. Burgers, dogs and fries with a baseball theme highlight these suburban spots, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ L D f HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standing reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ L D hpfe INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-9099, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 9697993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970 Tenth St.,

BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945. The open flame at this counter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout. Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and old-fashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ L D BUFFALO WILD WINGS 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 10206 Westport Rd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-9464, 4917 Outer Loop, 964-5803. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ L D hpf BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132. This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ L D h f THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg IN, 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ L D CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ L D h CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-8100, 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3662. At this growing chain, you can get your wings doused in an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicy garlic barbecue to sweet Thai chili to inferno — a habanero-based sauce that has a legit name. Also breaded

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 55

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 56

Jeffersonville IN, 288-3980, 4590 Dixie Hwy., 447-4856, 4419 Cane Run Rd., 448-1109, 4901 Poplar Level Rd., 969-5352. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ L D h JEFF'S BURGER SHACK 14126 Dixie Hwy., 384-0972. The building was once an A&W outlet; now it is a locallyowned casual fast food spot offering freshly made burgers (with a wide choice of toppings), freshly-cut fries, and milkshakes. $ L D JOELLA’S HOT CHICKEN 3400 Frankfort Ave., 895-2235, 13401 Shelbyville Rd., 254-1111. At this Nashville-style chicken emporium, diners will find traditional Southernfried chicken spiced medium, hot and hotter. House-made sides, of course, and local craft beers and wine, and freshsqueezed lemonade, too. $$ L D hpf KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013, 5603 Preston Hwy., 654-7707. $ L D h MUSSEL & BURGER BAR 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 3844834, 113 S. Seventh St., 749-6451. The unusual combination in the name sparks immediate interest; the consistently excellent offerings of both shellfish and meat patties keeps satisfied customers coming back. Choose from six different sauces for the mussels, and 12 clever twists on burgers. The downtown venue has an expanded menu and a handsome outdoor courtyard. L D hpfe OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisville-based chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ L

local properties have gained popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ L D hpf

range from Tame to Nuclear Habanero. Burgers, fried shrimp and sides as well. $ L D hf

ROYALS HOT CHICKEN 736 E. Market St., 919-7068.

Ryan Rogers first pressure-fries his chicken, then, in the Nashville style, blankets it with a paste of oil and spices delivering mild to “Gonzo’ heat. If you’re not in the mood for bird, salads and even Southern-fried tofu are on the menu. $$L D f

WINGSTOP 4812 Dixie Hwy., 409-6000, 2007 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7171. This Texas-based chain with 500 restaurants nationally, now reaches into Louisville.

Their specialty? Wings of course, and you can get them 9 different ways. $$ L D hp

SAVANNAH RESTAURANT 2750 S. Seventh St., 2425108. This modest little, near-West End spot provides neighborhood diners with wings, fried fish, burgers and fries. $ L D h SIX FORKS BURGER CO. 1270 S. Preston St., 779-1993 The name of this family-run, family-friendly spot in Shelby Park was inspired by the owners’ six children. Burgers, of course, with an expansive toppings bar. Also on the menu are a variety of sausages and hot dogs, sandwiches and fries topped 6 ways. $ L D SMASHBURGER 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 326-4141, 312 S. Fourth St., 583-1500, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport) 363-2526. A growing chain located mostly in the West and the South now has three Kentucky locations serving made-to-order Angus beef burgers, and is looking to open more area locations. $ L D f STEAK ‘N SHAKE 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak ‘n Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ B L D h

OSKAR'S SLIDER BAR 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 395-9010.

Jesse and Liz Huot (Grind Burger Kitchen) expand on their burger concept with a new slider bar. Oskar’s (the name inspired by the Huots’ son, Oskar) offers over a dozen slider choices – chicken, fried fish and pork belly in addition to the expected ground beef mini-burgers. Fries and salads, too. $$ L D p

STOUT BURGERS & BEER 1604 Bardstown Rd., 4598234. This California burger and brew concept serves a custom beef blend of chuck and brisket ground and grilled in-house two ways: pink and not pink, and the limited menu of chef-created sandwiches is clever and tasty. Craft beers from local, national and international breweries are poured from 30 taps and a selection of bottles, and each is paired by suggestions written on the food menu. $ L D

RAILBIRDS HOT CHICKEN 4520 Poplar Level Rd., (Derby City Gaming), 961-7600. Grab some wings or jumbo tenders at your choice of heat level or other non-spicy chicken dishes and sides like fries and slaws before you head back to the games. $ L D h

THE CHICKEN BOX 5905 Terry Rd., 618-0430. This Pleasure Ridge Park restaurant offers six flavors of wings, all cooked to order: buffalo, extra hot, bbq, lemon pepper, hot garlic Parmesan and lemon pepper hot. The waffle biscuit has impressed fans. $ L D f

RAISING CANE’S 10490 Westport Rd., 425-4040, 6811 Bardstown Rd., 654-7737, 5212 Dixie Hwy., 742-9035, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 822-1188, 12009 Shelbyville Rd., 434-7681, 1905 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-9441. A national chain with a single core product — chicken fingers. Six locations in town now, all offering simple and straightforward fried chicken finger combos and sandwiches with slaw and fries on the side. $ L D f

THE CHILLBURGER 500 LaFollette Station Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 728-8283; 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 725-9157. These two Southern Indiana burger places tout freshly-ground USDA Choice beef, fresh-cut fries and milk shakes and sundaes from hormone-free dairy. Chicken and fish sandwiches, too. $ L D f

RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 948-9895. This Seattle-based chain serves up its well-regarded “gourmet burgers” and trimmings in two East End locations and S. Indiana.

Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ L D hpf RED TOP GOURMET HOT DOGS 1127 Logan St., 6402032. The journey from street cart to food truck to storefront is complete. Ryan Cohee's all beef, nitrate- and preservative-free hotdogs can be found now in Shelby Park. Bison and Waygu beef choices, as well as vegan/ vegetarian-friendly dogs. Columbus-style sauerkraut balls, too. $ L D hp ROOSTERS 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 590-3391, 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 883-1990, 5338 Bardstown Rd., 618-1128, 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 7082798. With a wide footprint in Ohio, this Columbus-based wings-and-brews chain is now spreading its franchise reach across Indiana, West Virginia and Kentucky. Its six 56 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

ZAXBY’S (9 Locations) There are now 9 outlets in Louisville and Southern Indiana. The casual dining chain cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wingz and fingerz - that sort of thing. $ L D h

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ L AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888766-2648. Grab a bite before hitting the casino.

Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ B L D hp ASPIRE CAFÉ & JUICE BAR 332 W. Broadway, 804-4756.

This African-soul food fusion restaurant, relocated in the Heyburn Building, offers vegetarian and vegan foods, including a specialty, a Nigerian stew. $ B L f ATLANTIC NO. 5 605 W. Main St., 883-3398. Owners Mary Wheatley and Rebecca Johnson offer fresh takes on breakfast and lunch in this sharp Main St. renovation. Eat in or take away hearty biscuits, ham slider breakfast sandwiches, bagels or house-made granola. At lunch choose simple grilled cheese or specialty sandwiches like Mediterranean tuna or Cuban press. $ B Br L pfe ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ B L D hp BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. Tables are always at a premium at this popular Crescent Hill breakfast and lunch spot. And its artisanal bakery continues to produce hearty European-style breads that have set a gold standard on restaurant tables and in better grocery stores around town. $$ B L D hf BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln. (Crown Plaza Hotel), 367-2251. $$$ L D hp BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. Named after the owner’s dear, departed beagle, Boomer’s is a popular, low-key downtown deli in the heart of the museum district. Sandwiches, burger and fries, homemade chocolate cookies, and good coffee. $ L

THE EAGLE 1314 Bardstown Rd., 498-8420. This small Cincinnati-based chain serving fried chicken, five-cheese macaroni, house-made biscuits and other comfort food, has established itself firmly in the Highlands restaurant row. The three-season patio is a great place to enjoy the beer list. $ L D hpf

BORSALINO CAFÉ & DELI 3825 Bardstown Rd., 8075325. This Buechel store is somewhere between a coffee shop, a fancy bakery and a deli. You can stop in for your morning coffee and sweet bun to go, buy a cake for dessert or take away a stuffed pita for lunch. $ B L D hf

W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 8979684. This locally owned and operated build-your-own burger joint has packed in fans at its location near Dupont Circle for over 30 years, serving substantial burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and offering more than 40 toppings on the lengthy condiments bar. $ L D h

CAFÉ 157 157 E. Main St., 548-9114. This little café downtown serves breakfast and lunch daily except Wednesdays, dinner on Thursday through Saturday, and Sunday brunch. The menu skews to Southern comfort foods, all fresh and scratch-made, including corned beef cured in-house. The owner ran Old Bridge Inn B&B, for many years. $$ B Br L D p

WHISKEY DRY 412 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live!) 7497933. Ed Lee expands his local empire to Fourth Street Live! with this casual burger and whiskey bar. The menu features a suggested whiskey pairing for each burger from among the 200 whiskeys from America, Ireland, Japan and elsewhere. $$ L D hpf THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445, 3038 Hunsinger Ln., 618-0106. Wing Zone, with locations scattered across the eastern U.S., excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that

CAFÉ 223 223 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1877. Carol and Steve Stembro, owners of Jeffersonville's Market Street Inn, have renovated a house near the Big Four Bridge, to provide sustenance for cross-river walkers and J’ville regulars, who will find baked goods and breakfast items in the morning, and paninis, salads, soups and hot and cold beverages for lunch. $ B L f CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. Highlands diners enjoy an eclectic and international menu at this friendly corner place, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 57

biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, just about 24/7. $ B L D hpf CAFÉ ON MEIGS 425 Meigs Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 2888515. The menu at this downtown J’ville lunch spot emphasizes fresh local ingredients and the avoidance of preservatives and processed ingredients. Although the usual suspects are there — chicken salad, roast beef sandwiches with Swiss cheese and red onion, Benedictine, grilled cheese, Cobb salad — all are done with integrity. $ L

from hot and cold breakfast items, fresh pastries and kolache. The lunch menu offers deli-style sandwiches, paninis, soups, salads, Derby Pie (of course) and Benedictine. There is also a full bar. $ B L pf FARM TO FORK CAFÉ 2425 Portland Ave., 365-3276.

Farm to Fork, for many years a premier catering company known for its Southern favorites made from scratch from regionally-sourced ingredients, has moved its operations to a former Portland firehouse and has opened a café serving breakfast and lunch. The seasonal menu includes grits, biscuits, soup, salads and sandwiches. $ B L p

CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch or supper. $$ B L D fe

FULL STOP FILLING STATION 1132 E. St. Catherine St., 260-8046. This former car repair shop is now a grab and go coffee shop and deli, offering locally-sourced food, coffee and a few grocery items, a limited to-go beer section and some beers on tap. Café open until 5; kitchen closes at 2 p.m. $ B L p

CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2622.

An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot where owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as potato-chip-crusted whitefish, specialty pizzas, and lemon-tarragon chicken with orzo. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $ L D f

GRACIOUS PLENTY 9207 US Hwy 42, 618-4755, 2900 Brownsboro Rd., 618-4755. Eat in or carry away fresh sandwiches, salads and soups, cookies and brownies at this Brownsboro Road deli and bakery, which also serves alcohol. Take away meals to heat up at home for dinner, too. The Prospect location is catering and carry-out only. $ LDp

CHRISTI'S CAFÉ 12810 Dixie Hwy., 937-3110. This family-operated restaurant in Valley Station serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, all the dishes you know you want: omelets, hotcakes, wings, chili, bean soup, giant burgers, open-faced roast beef with mashed potatoes and liver and onions. $ B L D

HAYMARKET BISTRO 300 E. Market St., 779-6825. Atria Senior Living has moved its employee café to the first floor and opened it to the public, serving lunch to downtown workers. Haymarket Bistro's menu includes sandwiches, pizza, salads and soups, including unusual offerings such as a ramp pesto, duck and potato pizza, and a grilled portobello wrap. $$ L

CITY CAFÉ 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 222 Eastern Pkwy., 852-5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ L CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. This family-owned and operated, classier-than-the-averagestrip mall place has quietly turned out delicious menus for better than 30 years. The Frederick family serves an eclectic menu (blackened tenderloin, Andouille-stuffed chicken, garlic-basil chicken pizza) and dishes like the Irish pork have won prizes at local charity contests. $$$ L D hp CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 8961488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $$ L D CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stores and maintains every bit of old-fashioned charm. Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers. Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ B L f CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg IN, 2469339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to local Hoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Full breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A full range of standard lunch sandwiches, with Reubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials. Homemade soups and salads, too. $ B Br L f CUP OF JOY 2507 Bank St., 919-9074. This coffee shop and café, located in a former bar, is a project of Haven Ministries and run mostly by volunteers. According to founder Esther Lyon, the food is “homemade, down-home cooking … biscuits and gravy, homemade potato soup, chicken and dumplings, turnovers, pastries.” Nothing on the menu tops $5. $ B L DERBY CAFÉ EXPRESS 704 Central Ave. (Kentucky Derby Museum), 637-1111. You can get both grab-and-go eats, and made-to-order breakfast and lunch items before or after your visit to the Derby Museum. At breakfast, choose

HIGHLAND MORNING 1416 Bardstown Rd., 365-3900, 111 St. Matthews Ave., 883-0203. You can order breakfast anytime at both locations, with an eclectic menu that also encompasses brunch, burgers, soul food, Southern dishes and vegetarian fare as well. $ B L D h HOT BOX EATERY 438 W. Market St., 822-3995. Try their fresh soups, salads, sandwiches, wraps and daily specials.

Menu choices include a Brie and salami wrap, Indonesian chicken peanut satay, pork schnitzel, a turkey club wrap and a gyro — in other words, an appealingly diverse selection. $ L J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistro-style alternative to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $$ B L pf JW CAFÉ & BAKERY 2301 Terra Crossing Blvd., 907-5248.

The bakery part of this East End spot offers scones and cupcakes and other expected bakery treats. The café part has a variety of lunch items, including Korean specialties.

The smoked salmon salad has won fans quickly. $ B L f KAYROUZ CAFÉ 3801 Willis Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ L D f KEVIN'S PICNIC 11505 Park Rd., 690-3310. PICNIC opened as a café, but owner Kevin Grangier has rethought his concept. This Anchorage property is now a bakery and catering business only. No more salads and sandwiches, but there are plenty of pastries, cakes, pies and other baked goods. $ B Br L pf LA PECHE GOURMET TO GO AND CAFÉ 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. Kathy Cary returns to her roots with this popular gourmet take-out counter, in the corner of her restaurant, Lilly’s. Featuring “tried and true” dishes like grilled chicken pasta, burgers, vegetarian sandwiches, chicken salad, and a dessert case that always includes strawberry pie. $$ B L D LE PETIT CAFÉ 1325 Bardstown Rd., 749-0883. The space that was Roux now houses this tiny crèperie and sandwich spot serving breakfast and lunch. There are

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 57

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 58

savory and sweet crepes, as well as smoothies and French toast. $$ B L D h MELROSE CAFÉ 13206 Hwy. 42, 409-6784. Kristin Fults’s breakfast and lunch spot sits just on the Louisville side of the Jefferson-Oldham County line. Fults named her suburban cafe in homage to the late, lamented Melrose Inn, which was located nearby. Fans find much satisfaction with cooked-to-order breakfasts, hearty sandwiches and a convivial atmosphere. $$ B L D NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770. This long-time favorite offers hearty and unusual breakfasts, satisfying lunches and dinners. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas and interesting entrées, it’s an appealing, affordable place to dine. $$ B Br L D hpfe ORANGE CLOVER KITCHEN & MORE 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-1005. Find quick breakfast and lunch items here, such as the Orange Clover muffin: poppy seed and blood orange flavors with a blood orange drizzle, as well as a cupcake version with cranberries. Two soup specials offered every day out of a recipe rotation of 75 possibilities won’t result in many repeats. $ B L PROSPECT CAFÉ 9550 US Hwy. 42, 708-2151. Conveniently located at the intersection of River Rd. and Hwy. 42, stop in for hot sandwiches (Cuban, Reuben, grilled Italian, Bourbon BBQ) or cold deli stuff — club sandwich, egg, tuna or chicken salad, or soups like chicken and dumplings. Chess bars and banana pudding too. $ L PURRFECT DAY CAT CAFÉ 1741 Bardstown Rd., 9165051. One room is a wine bar with snacks and small bites provided by local bakeries. The other room, by reservation, is a Cat Room, populated by cats needing homes, provided by the Humane Society. Bring in a drink, and play and cuddle with kitties — and maybe take one home. $ B L D hp

STARLIGHT CAFÉ 19816 Huber Rd., Starlight IN, 9239813. This café in the Winery building at Huber Farm provides light lunch items such as seasonal soups, Rueben sandwiches, a turkey club, chicken salad or artisan flatbread pizza. Dine inside in the dining room or outside on the patio that overlooks the 550-acre farm. Huber wines and cocktails made from spirits distilled on the premises available too. $$ L D pf

WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 581-8561 Caterer/restaurateur Susan Hershberg’s popular bakery and café operation, a welcome stop for those wanting artisanal breads, scones and croissants, now serves full breakfasts (Tuscan egg sandwich, breakfast grain bowl, frittata, smoked salmon plate) as well as sandwiches and paninis, side salads and more from the cafe. $ B L

THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ L

ZEGGZ AMAZING EGGS 11615 Shelbyville Rd., 882-1650.

This quick-service breakfast and lunch spot offers five house omelets (plus the chance to build your own), three variations on eggs Benedict, as well as biscuits and gravy, croque madames, waffles and pancakes. Luncheon fare includes a B.A.L.T (the ‘a’ is for avocado), salads and soups. $$ B Br L pf

STRICKER’S CAFÉ 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 218-9882. Family style restaurant serving hearty soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, melts and breakfast too, in suburban Jeffersonville. $ B L THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. Long-time local restaurateurs Sal and Cindy Rubino have sold their Paristown building and business, which eventually will be relocated nearby. The new owners, Paristown Food and Beverage Group, (operators of Buckhead Mountain Grill) pledge to keep the menu and the ambiance that the Rubino’s have developed; the Rubino’s will continue to run the busy breakfast and lunch spot as it currently is until the Paristown entertainment development is completed. . $ B Br L f THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324.

Since 1975 this St. Matthews tradition has delighted ladies who lunch, hungry students who munch, and just about everyone else with their sandwiches, pasta salads and tasty desserts. It caters parties with almost 50 choices of appetizers, party sandwiches, dips, cheese rings and crostini. $ L f

QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $BLf

THE CHEDDAR BOX TOO 109 Chenoweth Ln., 896-1133.

Cheddar Box owner Nancy Tarrant has extended her presence with a café just across the parking lot. Look for the same tasty salads, soups and desserts that have made her take-away business so popular. $ B L

RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands.

Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu, with Cuban, Jamaican, Greek and Middle Eastern dishes. Moderate prices, a weekend brunch and late night hours add to the draw. $$ L D hpf

THE TABLE 1800 Portland Ave., 708-2505. This West End non-profit, social entrepreneurship experiment serves locally-grown, fresh food and operates under a pay-whatyou-can model. Pay suggested prices if you can, or if not, contribute your time. Or donate more to “pay it forward.”

The menu offers soups, salads, sandwiches and sides. $ L D

RED HOG 2622 Frankfort Ave., 384-0795. Kit Garrett and Bob Hancock, owners of Blue Dog Bakery, now also have this butcher shop and café offering artisan cured meats in Crescent Hill. Pasture-raised pork, beef, bison, lamb and poultry are available. The café serves small plates and pizzas fired from their wood-burning oven. The bar offers craft cocktails and 12 beer taps. $$ L D pf

VERBENA CAFÉ 10639 Meeting St., 425-0020. This Norton Commons eatery is open early for breakfast and serves hearty lunches till midafternoon, but you can order breakfast or lunch at any of those hours. $$ B L f

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ 700 W. Riverside Dr. (Sheraton Hotel), Jeffersonville IN, 284-6711. The breakfast room and bar of the Sheraton Riverside. Breakfast served until 10:30 a.m.

Unwind at the bar at night. $$ B pf SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 893-5118.

This perennially popular little East End eatery, long a goto choice for breakfast and lunch, now provides dinner on Friday nights too. $ Br L D f SHAHAR CAFÉ 1511 Bardstown Rd., 653-7083. Anselmo’s Italian gives way to this eclectic eatery whose owners have devised a menu of Euro-Asian entrees and snacks. The wide-ranging menu includes beef kabobs, Russian piroshki, samosas and poutine. Weekend entrée specials may include plov (a central Asian rice and meat dish), shashlik (similar to shish kebab), pelmeni (Russian dumplings) and borscht. $ B Br L D THE SILLY AXE CAFÉ 2216 Dundee Rd., 290-7197. A completely gluten-free restaurant. Most recently home to Diorio’s Pizza, Silly Axe (a play on celiac disease) has a deli counter and a selection of pre-made items for take-away.

The menu offers meat, vegan and vegetarian choices, daily quesadillas and five house sandwiches. $$ L D pf

58 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-4338. $LD WAYCOOL CAFÉ 120 W. Broadway, 582-2241. Wayside Christian Mission trains people here in its community reentry program in restaurant service and management.

Breakfasts for under $5; a lunch buffet is $8 for unlimited trips. A dinner menu too. It’s a do-gooder place that serves good food. $ L D WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 618-3449, 121 S. Floyd St., 690-5925, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN 913-4735. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can now be found at this growing mini-chain’s fifth outlet. $ B Br L p WILTSHIRE AT LOGAN STREET MARKET 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 581-8560. Susan Hershberg was one of the first to sign onto the market idea when she moved her wholesale bakery production kitchen there last year. Her booth will sell artisan breads, breakfast pastries and desserts. Opens at 8 am for grab-and-go breakfast, with specials planned for take-away light dinner items for homebound commuters. $$B Br L f

A NICE RESTAURANT 3129 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 280-9160, 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 9237770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have branched out to four locations. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ B L APPLEBEE’S (5 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ L D hp ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 2392200, 302 Bullitt Ln., 425-0077. A lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ L D hp BISCUIT BELLY 900 E. Main St., 409-5729. Chad and Lauren Coulter, of Louvino fame, now have this breakfast and lunch spot downtown. There they provide over-sized biscuit sandwiches filled with chicken, country ham or brisket; oatmeal, hash and Nutella toast; and coffee cocktails such as a pecan nut brown Old Fashioned, or beers, such as coffee porter. Regular coffee, too, and eggs your way. $$ B Br L pf BLIND SQUIRREL 592 N. English Station Rd., 384-6761.

This American-style restaurant is part of the King Louis Sports complex. The 400-seat, two-story dining facility boasts outdoor seating overlooking the sand volleyball courts, 27 TVs inside, a performance venue, a cigar humidor and outdoor smoking lounge. Chef Jason Pierce serves up his take on American family standards: burgers, sandwiches, pizza and so on. $$ L D hpfe BOOMTOWN 110 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 590-1314.

A third restaurant takes over the former home of the legendary South Side Inn, Boomtown focuses on affordable classic dishes: several burgers, including a wild game option, steak dinner with two sides and pork chops. $$ L D pf BOUJIE BISCUIT 1813 Frankfort Ave., 269-8426. This tiny Clifton space advertises, “Scratch-made comfort food on a handcrafted buttermilk biscuit.” The menu is mostly sandwiches, served on oversized biscuits—ham and threecheese biscuit, chicken pot pie biscuit and three different burger biscuits. Every sandwich is served in a cardboard to-go box, which most diners find they need. $$ B L f BRICK HOUSE TAVERN + TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-3182. Brickhouse, a Houston-based chain, has upgraded its image with an increased focus on food.

Serving brunch, lunch and dinner, with a half-dozen local beers on tap, and an unusual menu of beer cocktails. $$ L D hpf BROOKE & BILLY’S BITES, BOURBONS & BREWS 751 Vine St., 583-9165. The restored 135+ year-old building

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 59

has a secluded patio and revamped dining room in a cool, out-of-the-way neighborhood—and, it now has a new identity. The menu refocuses on house specials like fried chicken, a breakfast Hot Brown, and an extensive selection of sandwiches and small bites. $$$ L D pf BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN 2842919. The deck of the riverfront location in Jeffersonville, with its view across the river, is a great place for a lazy summer meal, when the familiarity of all-American fare like meat loaf, pot pies, steak or ribs and a couple of cold ones is all you want. Both locations house big square bars with a multitude of TV screens for excellent sports viewing. $$ L D hpf CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 5895200. The Galt House’s quick and casual second-floor dining alternative, this spacious venue offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ L D hp CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS RIVERSIDE GRILLE 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ Br L D pfe CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure! Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $ L D hp CHAMPIONS GRILLE 505 Marriott Dr. (Radisson Hotel), Clarksville IN, 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib.

Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ B Br L D p CHEDDAR’S SCRATCH KITCHEN 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallasbased chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ L D hpf CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 301-8181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 6949445, 3007 Poplar Level Rd., 638-5202, 940 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 670-3000. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ L D h COMMON TABLE 2234 W Market St., 873-2566. A dash of social justice adds savor to the food at this restaurant run as a culinary arts training program by Catholic Charities.

The kitchen only serves lunch Tuesdays and Thursdays and uses fresh produce grown by refugees in a sister program's incubator farm. Offerings include boxed lunches and a seasonal menu with a “worldly” mix of dishes including Thai, Cuban, Pakistani and Bosnian. $ L CORELIFE EATERY 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 670-5680. This Syracuse-based franchise offers vegetable and grains bowls, bone and vegetable broth, and grass-fed steak, chicken and tofu power plates. $$ L D DOUBLE DOGS 13307 Shelbyville Rd., 244-4430. Double Dogs, a Bowling Green, Ky.-based chain with four locations, has its first Louisville-area restaurant in Middletown. Double Dogs describes itself as “a family friendly restaurant with a sports atmosphere,” serving a variety of appetizers, sandwiches, hot dogs, burgers and pizza. $ L D hpf

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

FIRST WATCH 201 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-6075, 960 Breckenridge Ln., 618-1955, 1205 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 575-3447, 2225 Taylorsville Rd., 4447744. This Florida-based chain offers both traditional breakfast fare (fried eggs, sausage), proprietary specials, like French toast Monte Cristo (made with ham, turkey and Swiss cheese), crepes with plenty of fillings and healthful dishes like egg white omelets and cranberry nut oatmeal. Soups, salads and a big choice of sandwiches for lunch. $ B L FREDRICK’S 1508 W. Kentucky St. (St. Stephen Family Life Center), 653-9333. Comfort food with a little culinary love worked into it is served up here by Chef Jerriel Bell. The menu encompasses the soul food spectrum but includes upscale dishes as well. The menu changes often, offering everything from seafood gumbo and chicken Alfredo to pork chops and chicken and waffles. $ L D GAME 2295 Lexington Rd., 618-1772. The specialties here are sliders, meatballs and burgers made from ground exotic meats. Start with bone marrow or fried frog legs, try some wild boar chorizo or bison tongue sliders, or build your own burger from kangaroo, venison, alpaca or prime Angus beef, with bun choices ranging from brioche to pretzel to Kaiser roll. $$ D f GANDER, AN AMERICAN GRILL 111 S. English Station Rd., 915-8484. Chris and Anne Mike, of Goose Creek Diner, have opened Gander, An American Grill, serving steaks, burgers, pasta and sandwiches — "a little bit of everything that makes America what it is," according to Mike. $$$ Br L D hpf GATSBY’S ON FOURTH 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3200. The casual dining space on the first floor of the Seelbach reflects its connection of the hotel to F. Scott Fitzgerald. Dinner and lunch menus offer soups, salads, sandwiches and a few entrées, such as sautéed trout

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 59

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 60

with pickled fennel, pesto-crusted chicken, and skirt steak with celery root puree. $$ B L D hp

Bangkok curry, ), pastas (Tuscan fresca, penne rossa) — or select from a lineup of savory sandwiches and salads.. $ L Df

GREEN DISTRICT SALADS 126 Breckenridge Ln., 4095293, 225 S. Fifth St., 409-5293. This quick-service restaurant focusing on build-your-own chopped salads (or select from a menu). Lunch diners can opt for house-made soups and wraps, too. The former AP Grocery & Deli, across from Metro Hall, now is the area’s second location. $$ L D

O’CHARLEY’S (5 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-and-seafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ Br L D hp

GREEN LEAF NATURAL VEGETARIAN BISTRO 309 W. Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. Green Leaf serves up vegetarian fare in the new town center of University of Louisville. The menu has a pan-Asian focus, with noodles and fried rice and stir fries, as well as smoothies and bubble tea. $ L D

OLD LOUISVILLE CHILI BOWL 501 W. Oak St., 3840745. As the name suggests, here you will find chili— regular, vegetarian, hot or white. Burgers (including a Jersey burger), hot dogs, salads and sides as well—all at bargain prices. Open Thursdays-Saturdays only. $ L D

HARROD’S CREEK TAVERN 6313 River Rd., 919-8812.

Commuters trundling home to the suburbs can mingle with Prospect residents, river rats and parched kayakers docking out back on Harrod’s Creek. Look for an expanded bar food menu, brown bag lunches to go and late-night food service. $ L D hpfe

PORTAGE HOUSE 117 E. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 725-0435. Portage House, in a historic home along the river, is the second restaurant of Dallas McGarity, ownerchef of The Fat Lamb in the Highlands. Here on the sunnyside of the river his eclectic but thoughtful menu offers kim chee risotto fritters, grilled meatloaf, Cajun-spiced scallops and Nutella-mascarpone mousse. $$$ L D pf

INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. IHOP fans can choose to go out to the East End or across the river to satisfy their jones for the national chain’s inimitable food. $ B L D h INWAVE RESTAURANT & JUICE BAR 10310 Shelbyville Rd., 916-2177. Owner Dr. Kamlesh Dave, a proponent of plant-based diets, positions his vegetarian restaurant as a choice for those wanting to eat more healthfully. The menu includes power bowls (grains, rice, beans, vegetables and a sauce), salads, sandwiches, and flatbreads or pizza with gluten-free crusts. $$ L D JOE'S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 4347470. The Lyndon landmark has returned to its old spot, replacing Red Barn Kitchen, which had replaced Joe’s. The bar is rebuilt and another stuffed moose has been found.

But Olé Restaurant Group remains a partner, providing the food: smoked wings, brisket chili, cheese fritters, a mac and cheese burger and a daily lunch plate, all at prices that will appeal to Joe’s original fan base. $$ L D hpf KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646. Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $$ L D h MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588. This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where Farmer Bob is folksy and country. This East End outlet has developed a following beyond those familiar with it from other locations. $$ B Br L D hpf MIRIN 2011 Frankfort Ave., 742-8911. Chef Griffin Paulin brings his love for Asian street foods to Clifton. Mirin’s menu features ramen noodle dishes, Vietnamese-style banh mi sandwiches, Chinese-style steamed bao buns, tuna tataki and Sichuan shrimp. $$ D MOYA'S AMERICAN KITCHEN 10000 Linn Station Rd., 496-6692. The menu of this modest place lists Cajun/Creole dishes, hamburgers, pasta, seafood and desserts. $$ L D pf NAÏVE 1001 E. Washington St., 749-7856. This Butchertown vegetarian restaurant has been catering for some months in preparation for its opening as a sit-down restaurant. Its dishes include savory rice bowls, burritos, frittatas and quiches, savory toasts, salads and sandwiches. $$ D pf NEW ALBANY ROADHOUSE 1702 Graybrook Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7777. $$ L D hp NOODLES & COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 6320102, 4300 Summit Plaza Dr., 804-4724, 319 Cardinal Blvd., 632-2846. This Colorado-based fast-casual chain offers an eclectic noodle array: Asian style (pad Thai, 60 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 8973900. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ L D hpf RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ L D hp S BAR 1442 Dixie Hwy., 439-6574. You can get superfood smoothies and shakes at this South End spot, but the unique draw is the selection of “spuds” — loaded baked potatoes topped with things like chicken and broccoli Alfredo, Philly cheese steak, pulled pork and Buffalo chicken. $ L D SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-2323. Fans of Sam Anderson’s steaks, chicken, pizza and pasta know it is well worth the trip up into the Knobs above New Albany to enjoy the conviviality of his restaurant, and his always satisfying take on classic American steak, sandwiches and seafood. $$ L D p SHONEY’S 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ B L D SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 340 Whittington Pkwy., 429-5773, 4024 Dutchmans Ln., 7210093. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ L D h SUPERCHEFS 1702 Bardstown Rd., 409-8103. The funky comic book-themed decor in Darnell Ferguson’s Highlands restaurant celebrates super heroes during breakfast and lunch, and super villains at dinner. His menu reflects his super-sized sensibilities: the SuperChefs Omelet, the Pancake Platter, and a seafood pizza with a petite lobster tail on top. $$ B Br L D pf TGI FRIDAY’S 416 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 5853577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ L D hpf THE SPOT 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., 690-3011. The restaurant connected with the Ramada Plaza hotel, The Spot serves breakfast through dinner: eggs and pancakes, mozzarella sticks and fried calamari, pastas, grilled chicken and seafood. $ B L D p h

TOAST ON MARKET 620 E. Market St., 569-4099, 141 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 941-8582. On both sides of the river this breakfast and lunch favorite has gained a loyal following and tremendous word-of-mouth. Be prepared to wait for tables for weekend brunches. $ B Br L pf TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany IN, 944-9999.

Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-toearth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ L D hp TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 4518944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night.

It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ B L D h

8TH STREET PIZZA 800 E. Eighth St., New Albany IN, 645-6974. This “boutique, pay-it-forward pizza shop and ministry” serves New York style pizza with a “pay what you can afford” concept. Pay the full suggested price, pay what you can afford to pay, or pay the full amount of the suggested meal price plus a little extra to "pay it forward”. $LDf ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 367-0580. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $$ L D ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4771 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-to-order pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $$ L D h ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany IN, 945-1149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-9805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $$ L D h ARNO’S PIZZA 3912 Bardstown Rd., 384-8131.$$ L D BEARNO’S PIZZA (13 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 13 locations. $$ L D h BLAZE FAST-FIRE’D PIZZA 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 8957800, 13317 Shelbyville Rd., 822-3677, 4055 Summit Plaza Dr., 915-8731, 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarsville IN, 406-4347. At this California-based pizza franchise you customize your own pie from a lineup of meat and vegetable toppings, cheeses and several sauces. The pie bakes in just 2 minutes in a flaming hearth oven. There are ready-to-order signature pies also for those who can’t make up their minds. $$ L D p hf BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 935-5540.

It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ L D h BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & TAP HOUSE 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 913-4171, 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-4111. The Boombozz Pizza empire has expanded in concept and in locations, from Southern Indiana out to the edge of Middletown. The menu now extends into appetizers, sandwiches and pasta, and 21 craft beers on tap.$$ L D hpf BORROMEO’S PIZZA & ITALIAN 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 968-7743. Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $$ L D hpf BUTCHERTOWN PIZZA HALL 1301 Story Ave., 3848528. Restaurateur Allan Rosenberg has renovated the

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 61

building that for over 60 years housed Hall’s Cafeteria into a pizza restaurant and gaming arcade. Rosenberg returns to the robust New York-style pizza that he perfected at Papalino’s, sold as whole pies or by the slice. His menu also includes hot and cold sub sandwiches, chicken wings and salads. An accomplished chef in other styles as well, he cures his own meats on-site. $$ L D hp CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ L D pf CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ L D CHEF'S CUT PIZZERIA 9901 LaGrange Rd., 265-1320.

This reasonably priced Lyndon pizza place has sandwiches too, from chili dogs to turkey clubs, and pasta dishes. $ L Dp CHUBBY RAY’S 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. This family restaurant has grown from a small mostly carry-out spot to a large (400 seat) Jeffersontown institution. The menu offerings have expanded as well. In addition to signature pizzas, you can find quesadillas and rooster wings, burgers and subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D hpf COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3730 Frankfort Ave., 742-8200, 11615 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0106, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). Middletown and airport travelers now partake in what St. Matthews diners have enjoyed for a few years–excellent pizzas made in coal-fired ovens burning at 800 degrees F, crisping the crust in 4 minutes and “leoparding” it with black spots. Toppings are fresh and regionally-sourced. $$ L D hpf

building across the court yard boasts a wood-fired pizza oven and a rotating list of guest beers. $$ D hpfe HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-4555.

Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and cold beer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ L D h IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ LDh JET’S PIZZA 101 S. Hubbards Ln., 895-4655, 3624 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1700, 235 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-4440, 6523 Bardstown Rd., 239-0000, 2500 Bardstown Rd., 458-5387, 10494 Westport Rd., 4261181. Now with a fourth Louisville outlet, this Detroitbased chain offers sit-down service and carry-out. The menu features eight crust flavors and some gourmet pizza options such as a BLT and chicken parmesan. $$ L D f JOHNNY BRUSCO’S PIZZA 10600 Meeting St., 749-8400.

This chain out of Atlanta, GA with its roots starting in Manlius, NY has settled in the neighborhood of Norton Commons. They offer an array of New York-style pies, subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D LITTLE CAESARS PIZZA (13 Locations) This pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ L D h LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. New York City-style pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, has been making inroads in River City, but Luigi’s was one of the first to offer in its authentic form here. $$ L MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 2469517. A pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishment.

Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $$ L D h

MAC'S DOUGH HOUSE 10509 Watterson Trl., 694-2322, 636 Barret Ave. (inside Mile Wide Beer Co.), 409-8139. At the J’town location, choose from a dozen pizzas with clever names, or mac 'n' cheese variations like buffalo chicken, lobster and crab and a spicy version made with Sriracha and Flamin’ Hot Cheetos. A second location, beneath the silos at Mile Wide Brewery, offers a concise menu of personal-size pizzas, salads and appetizers that pairs well with Mile Wide’s tap list. There’s even a Nutella dessert pizza. $$ L D hp MARCO’S PIZZA 2011 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-1144. A rapidly growing (300+) pizza chain from Toledo, Ohio, adds to the choices of takeout pies in New Albany. Ironically, its CEO lives in Louisville and commutes to Toledo. $$ L D h MIMO’S NEW YORK STYLE PIZZERIA 2708 Paoli Pike, New Albany IN, 945-7711. People move to the Knobs for its bucolic setting, but locals still crave their pizza fix.

Mimo’s provides that with daily specials, such as Buffalo pizza, calzones, heroes, wraps or salads. Mangia, mangia! $$ L D p MOD PIZZA 3085 Breckenridge Ln., 915-7810. The first Louisville location of this Seattle chain makes artisan-style pizza and salads tossed to order. Its niche is individual pizzas served quickly and with a choice of over 30 toppings, all for one price. Choices are named in typical West Coast fashion: Calexico, Caspian, Lucy Sunshine, and so forth. $ L D pf MOMMA’S PIZZA 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Pike, Jeffersonville IN, 697-3224. Create your own pizza style here or choose one of the specialty pies, such as the Jesse James, with jalapeños, spicy sausage and pepperoni and marinara fire sauce, the ranch chicken or Momma’s vegetable pizza. $$ D MOZZA PI 12102 Lagrange Rd., 890-4832. Tom Edwards began MozzaPi several years ago as one of the first food

DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1836 Mellwood Ave., 890-6331. Dan McMahon sells generously-topped pizzas at the walk-up venue in the courtyard of the Mellwood Arts Center. The choices are mostly traditional with outliers like Hawaiian and Kentucky Hot Brown. His butter-drenched garlic breadsticks, aka “Cracksticks,” are a fan favorite. McMahon’s pizzas can also be found at Tim Tam Tavern. $$ L D h DERBY CITY PIZZA 5603 Greenwood Rd., 933-7373, 2500 Crittenden Dr., 384-4777, 10619 Manslick Rd., 7423940, 2331 Brownsboro Rd. It is always nice when a business’s name is self-explanatory. But the menu offers burgers and wings, too, along with toasted subs and pasta dishes. The Brownsboro Road location is carry-out only. $$ L D hpf DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 618-3424, 917 Baxter Ave., 614-8424. Residents in St. Matthews and in the Highlands can savor pizza by the slice, as well as by the mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilled sandwiches, salads, wings, queso sticks, and a good selection of domestic and import beers. $$ L D hpf FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555, 12216 Shelbyville Rd., 244-2500. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Middletown spot lures a friendly biker crowd. $$ L D h FIRENZA PIZZA 12406 Lagrange Rd., 999-2099. This Virginia-based chain touts pizza dough made in-house daily, and a total of 40 topping combinations chosen along with six sauces, seven cheeses, nine meats and 17 vegetables. Pies are made-to-order and baked in stonehearth ovens. $$ L D pf THE GRAIN HAUS 41 W. First St., New Albany IN, (470) 588-2337. Part of Floyd County Brewing, the separate

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019

61

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 62

trucks in Louisville. At his Anchorage pizza place he drafts artisanal pies from flour he mills himself. He makes bread too, and gives courses in artisanal baking. $$$ L D pf MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-5005, 10035 Dixie Hwy., 632-2504, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw. $$ L D NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. $$ L D h OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700, 10601 Fischer Park Dr., 657-5700. This growing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, along with amusing appetizers (jalapeño cheese pretzels, Italian nachos), filling salads, sandwiches and burgers. Check out the imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ L D hp OLD SCHOOL NY PIZZA 12907 Factory Ln., 882-1776.

You want Sicilian-style pizza, just like they make in Brooklyn? You can get it in the Eastern suburbs near I-265.

Top it with vegetables supplied by local farmers, or tie into a calzone and finish with gelato. $$ L D ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 4542711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 110 W. Main St., 589-4900, 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 653-7243.

Impellizzeri’s massive pies, loved for a generation, are the draw but there is also a full menu of Italian-inspired meals including hoagie sandwiches and pasta dishes at all four locations. $$$$ L D hpf PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (10 Locations) $$ L D PARLOUR 131 W. Chestnut St., Jeffersonville IN, 914-7400.

Parlour, another Big Four Bridge-inspired eatery, offers 40+ beers on tap, a covered outdoor bar with a fire pit, an upstairs bar in the renovated 1870s-era house and green space for games like cornhole, horseshoes and bocce. $$ L D hpf PIEOLOGY 2043 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 749-7072. Another pizza chain breaks into what appears to be pretty saturated market and offers “hand-crafted, stone oven-fired” pies. All are one size (11-1/2 inches) and one price ($7.95) — unless you just want red sauce and mozzarella for a buck less. $ L D PIZZA BAR 445 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live!), 9158113. You will find New York-style pizzas by the slice or the whole pie, appetizers, salads and grinder sandwiches at this replacement for Birracibo. $$ L D hpf PIZZA DONISI 1396 S. Second St., 213-0488. Old Louisville hipsters have long needed a nearby pizza joint.

Now they have it and it’s owned by Danny Fitzgerald, impresario behind Mag Bar. Get it by the slice or in whole artisan pies, along with appetizers, fried ravioli and more. $$ L D h f

PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $$ L D hpf SAL’S PIZZA & WINGS 812 Lyndon Ln., 365-4700. In addition to generously-topped pizzas, you can find panini, subs, burgers, and fried fish at this inviting spot in a Lyndon strip mall. $$ L D hpf SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 629 S. Fourth St., 589-8686, 8133 Bardstown Rd., 491-3663. Ready for takeout or eatin, both the downtown storefront and its suburban sister site offer good, standard pizza and other familiar ItalianAmerican dishes. $$ L D hpf SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 496 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $$ L D h f SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 239 S. Fifth St., 749-0919. This locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their massive pizza by the slice, has contracted to two locations. Both are open until 5 a.m. nightly Wednesday through Saturday, offering Philly-style pizza and real Philly cheesesteaks. $ L D h THE CORNER 4111 Murphy Ln., 426-8340. $$ L D he THE POST 1045 Goss Ave., 635-2020. Germantown has long needed a classic New York-style pizza joint, and this spot, in a former VFW post, has provided it. Pizza is available by slice or whole pie, mostly classic tomato sauced varieties, but a few oddities, like the chicken dinner pizza with Buffalo-based sauce, chicken, cheddar, onion and ranch drizzle. Calzones, subs and salads, too.$$ D h p TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 949-3000. The long-time Louisville pizzamaker moves across the river to fill the cravings of Hoosiers. $$$ D TOONERVILLE TAVERN 1201 S. First St., 635-6960. The building sits on the corner of Oak and First, but the clever signs direct you down Oak st. to the new entrance.

Toonerville Deli has been renamed, and the food focus of the Tavern is pizza, with many of the deli sandwiches also available. $$ L D hp TOPP'T HANDCRAFTED PIZZA 373 Professional Court, New Albany IN, 725-8891, 323 W. Cardinal Blvd., 2901379. This Elizabethtown-based fast-casual pizza and salad concept serves fast-fired (in an 800-degree oven), handcrafted pizzas and made-to-order chopped salads.

The thin crust dough is made onsite daily in original, wheat and gluten-free versions. One price regardless of the number of toppings. $$ L D f UNION 15 5205 New Cut Rd., (Colonial Gardens). The name of this pizza and tap house refers to Kentucky joining the Union as the 15th state; it joins El Taco Luchador as the first of several restaurants planned for the renovated Colonial Gardens. The menu includes Chicago thin crust pizza, wings and sandwiches. The bar has more than 50 beers, wines and bourbon on tap. $$ L D hpf WEST POINT PIZZA 407 South St., West Point KY, 2639371 If you find yourself on the downriver side of town, across the Salt River, and hungry, but you don’t know for what, stop in here. In addition to pizzas made with fresh dough every day, you will find tacos and burgers as well. $$ D f WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 225 State St., New Albany IN, 945-9425, 3348 Hikes Ln., 9075542. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all four of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $$ L D hpfe

PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9454405, 1701 E. 10th St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-8286. The pizza is baked in a sturdy, stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. We heartily recommend the barbecue pizza. $$ LD

ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ L D

PIZZA LUPO 1540 Frankfort Ave., 409-8440. Max Balliet, the owner of Holy Molé taco truck, now also has Lupo, a casual Italian restaurant where he bakes up pizzas on a fire-engine-red wood-fired oven. Along with pizza, Lupo offers a variety of handmade pastas in a restored 19th century Butchertown building. $$ D h pf

AMERICAN SMOKEHOUSE STADIUM 5580 Hwy. 62, Jeffersonville IN, 282-6700. This Southern Indiana BBQ joint does the usual stuff – brisket, pulled pork and

62 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

chicken. But also look for the smoked prime rib, burnt ends, smoked lamb gyros or fried tofu. $ L D hp B3Q BBQ 1044 Copperfield Drive, Georgetown IN, 9513900. Ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket, served up as sandwiches, wraps or platters. Also, smoked baloney and chicken, smoked turkey and sirloin tips, and plenty of side choices. Dine-in, carry-out and catering available. $ L D f BABIE BAC'Z GOOD GRILL 8533 Terry Rd., 619-1873.

This far South End family-owned barbecue restaurant smokes up baby back ribs and rib tips, half chickens and wings and several sandwiches, including the Bacz Attack, which combines ham, bacon and pork. $$ L D BABY MAE'S 1817 Graybrook Ln., New Albany IN, 9147040. Barbecue and soul food in the old Mom & Pop’s Cone Corner building. Baby Mae’s reasonably priced menu includes everyone’s comfort foods: ribs, pulled pork, smoked turkey, mac and cheese, home fries and the “grandaddy of chili dogs.” $ L D BIG BEN’S BBQ 600 Quartermaster Center, Jeffersonville IN, 284-4453. This family run BBQ joint is now at the Quartermaster Center, smoking up a storm and impressing locals who recommend Johnnie’s Smokin Ribs, Joecille’s Backbone (brisket tips), Big Ben’s shredded pork sandwich and Alvin’s Wild-Side shredded chicken sandwich. $$ L D f BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722. Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentucky-style mutton barbecue. $ L D f CHECK'S BBQ & BLUES 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868.

The owners of Germantown’s Checks Café have opened this BBQ joint in Middletown, featuring live blues bands on weekends. Some Check’s Café standards (chicken livers, fried pork chops), along with ribs, pulled pork and brisket, as sandwiches and full dinners comprise the menu. $ L D hpe CITY BARBEQUE 329 Whittington Pkwy., 996-8003. This Ohio-based BBQ chain specializes in brisket, but doesn’t neglect pulled pork (served with slaw on top) and St. Louis ribs. It also smokes turkey breast, chicken and sausage. $$ L Dpfe FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 4932812. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ L D hpf FDKY BBQ 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 785-4273. The logo shows that “FD” stands for Fire Department — after all, those guys know all about smokin’. Eat dinner in or order a couple of pounds of pulled pork, marinated pulled chicken, brisket or smoked sausage, firehouse chili or Res Q stew and all the required side dishes to go. Ribs on Wednesdays and Friday calls for fried fish. $$ L D f FEAST BBQ 909 E. Market St., 749-9900, 10318 Taylorsville Rd., 749-6534. Owner Ryan Rogers brings a modernist sensibility to the art of barbecue to both NuLu and Jeffersontown. He has formulas for brining times and uses a high-tech smoker to keep the temps low and the smoke from overwhelming the meats. $ B L D hpf FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. And where else can you play miniature golf while waiting for the smoker to finish? $ L D hpf GALLEY AT GOODWOOD 636 E. Main St., 584-2739.

Goodwood Brewing’s downtown production facility and

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 63

comfortable taproom now offers a menu designed to pair with its liquid fare. Start with bowls of chili or burgoo, grab some wings or tacos, or one of the smoked meat sandwiches. $$ L D e

MACK BROS BBQ 2700 Rockford Ln., 384-4590. This family owned and operated restaurant serves ribs, rib tips, chicken and sides, including a fan favorite: cornbread salad. $$ L D

GUY FIERI'S SMOKEHOUSE 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live!), 919-7299. The latest creation of the Food TV’s bad boy chef caused some serious musing about the meaning of “celebrity” chefs to local eating. But see the hoopla for yourself, and try some of the fried chicken brined in pickle juice, brisket with pomegranate, sorghum-glazed pork chops or Triple Crown grilled cheese sandwich. $$ L D hpf

MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 9337707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 285-1998, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 442-0808. Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty babyback ribs. And don’t miss the smoked take-home turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ L D hpf

HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 CharlestownNew Albany Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4490. Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.”

He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce. A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ L D HOLY SMOKES BAR-B-QUE 7508 Preston Hwy., 9685657. The former Bootleg Bar-B-Q franchise on Preston Hwy. has become Holy Smokes Bar-B-Que. Owner Mark Weatherholt smokes his wings for three hours, his ribs and chicken for five, and his pork lingers overnight. He does brown sugar wings, too. $ L D JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texasstyle barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ L D f LOUIE’S HOT CHICKEN & BARBECUE 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 709-4274. The chicken here ranges through 4 levels of heat, the hottest using the notorious ghost pepper.

BBQ choices include pulled pork and brisket and smoked wings. Outside, there are picnic tables, inside, a custom bar with Bourbon barrel lid stools. $ L D f

MARK T'S SLAB HOUSE 4912 Preston Hwy., 962-1069.

That would be slabs of ribs, of course. A wonderfully direct name for a barbecue restaurant. Several drum-style smokers out front exude a savory cloud, attesting to the work being done inside those drums. $ L D MARTIN'S BAR-B-QUE JOINT 3408 Indian Lake Dr., 2424666, 984 Barret Ave., 242-0020. Pretty famous in Tennessee, Martin’s has 2 locations where Louisvillians can now savor the meats smoked in the open pit (the whole hogs take 24 hours). All dishes, meats, sides and even sauces are made in-house daily. For a different kind of treat, try the smoked turkey sandwich. $$ L D pf MISSION BBQ 4607 Shelbyville Rd., 206-3331, 1213 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 269-3860. The National Anthem is played every day at noon at this Baltimorebased chain, which makes a point of supporting soldiers, firefighters, police officers and other first responders. Look for Texas-inspired brisket, smoked turkey, pulled chicken and pork, and even smoked salmon. There are also ribs, of course, sandwiches and scratch-made sides. $$ L D pf MOMMA’S MUSTARD PICKLES & BBQ 102 Bauer Ave., 938-6262, 119 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 290-7998. The St. Matthews spot garnered so many barbecue fans that a second outlet opened in the East End for the overflow.

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

Knot on your bib for Kansas City-style smoked pork and beef ribs (a house specialty), brisket, chicken, pulled pork and all the standard sides. Their wings are a contender for best in all the city. Momma's “2% for Louisville” program steadily donates 2% of earnings to local charities. $$ D f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ L D f PORKLAND BBQ 2519 St. Cecilia St., 890-5988. Created by the non-profit group, Love City, Porkland BBQ’s proceeds benefit community programs for youth and aspiring entrepreneurs. Look for pulled pork and pulled chicken sandwiches, fried fish, rib tips, side items and desserts. A Portland specialty, smoked bologna sandwiches, too. $ L D RIVER ROAD BBQ 3017 River Rd., 592-7065. Right next to the Water Tower, this little take-out-only place smokes brisket and pork: some days one sells out, on other days the other. Winter hours are 11-6 or until the meat runs out. Potato salad, slaw and drinks. Buy it by the sandwich or by the pound. $ L D RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find a bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ L D hpfe RUBBIN’ BUTTS BBQ 8007 Highway 311, Sellersburg IN, 748-7266. Up the road a ways you will find this “traditional” BBQ joint with some house specialties not so traditional: smoked deviled eggs, BBQ pork queso and their signature, the BBQ hog-a-chonga, a flour shell stuffed with baked beans, cheese, and pulled pork, then deep fried and smothered in queso and BBQ sauce. $ L D

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 63

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 64

SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 363-3227.

This Fairdale institution since 2004 smokes and serves slow-smoked pulled pork, brisket, ribs and a dozen sides (including Nanny’s potato salad) from an 1896 log house.

Specialty is hickory-grilled steaks on Friday and Saturday nights. $ L D fe

DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102-1/2 Cannons Ln., 8952863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time.

Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ B L

SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 4917570. This Stony Brook-area eatery combines a sports-bar with a barbecue concept. Its large and varied menu includes wings and burgers, steaks and pork chops, and several takes on mac ‘n’ cheese, as well as righteous ribs. $$ L D hp

DOWNTOWNER DELI 428 W. Market St., 822-3572. This popular nosh spot adds another choice for the working lunch crowd. The soups, salads, sandwiches and wraps have quickly made fans here as well as in its original Madison, IN. location by offering both savory tastes and worth-it portions. $ L f

THE WRIGHT HOUSE BBQ + EATERY 638 Providence Way, Clarsville IN, 656-0941. Dalephonia and LaFond Wright have taken over the space that had been Shawn's BBQ. Dale makes the sides while LaFond prepares the baked chicken, pulled pork and chicken, burgers, smoked sausage, pork chops and meatloaf, carrying on the cooking lessons learned from their grandmothers. $ L D

FIREHOUSE SUBS 215 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-3473, 4905 Outer Loop, 749-4257, 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 8834168. This national chain touts that they steam their meat and cheese sandwiches. Specialty subs carry out the Firehouse theme and the kids meals include a little fire helmet. $ L D

321 DELI 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. The dining and drinks complex on the corner of Third and Main offers something for everyone. This is the deli component (the others are an ice cream shop and a Bourbon bar), which strives to blend the look and feel of a New York deli with the charm of the South. Lunch on nicely done sandwiches constructed from meats roasted in house, gourmet salads and sides to go. $ L D f ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. This venerable lunch spot has been recharging the energies of downtown workers for over four decades.

Brian Goodwin, son of the late founder and owner, has brightened and modernized the space, and overhauled the menu, looking forward to decades more of lunchtime service. $ L BARRY’S CHEESESTEAKS & MORE 7502 Preston Hwy., 883-2874, 1161 S. Second St., 618-2288. Barry’s version of the classic Philly street food has been getting raves from self-anointed cheesesteak mavens, who approve of his meat, bread and the cheese sauce choices. He now has a second, larger space in Old Louisville. $ L D BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ali Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ B L BRUEGGER’S BAGELS 119 Breckenridge Ln., 618-1158.

The bagel/sandwich chain has set up shop in the middle of St. Matthews, offering another quick breakfast and lunch option. Choose from bagels and breakfast sandwiches, muffins, panini, salads and soups. $ B L f BUTCHER’S BEST 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fullystaffed meat store in Prospect offers custom-cut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ L D f CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ L CHICAGO STEAK & LEMONADE 4501 Cane Run Rd., 384-4291, 2124 W. Broadway, 450-5300, 5049 Poplar Level Rd., 966-6940. This local mini-chain serves a variety of Philly cheese steaks, gyros, lemon-pepper fish dinners and wings. The lemonade comes in a passel of different flavor combos. $ L D h COLD SMOKE BAGELS 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 309-4269. Four kinds every day, with a schmear of your choice. Bagels, sandwiches and the weekend brunch highlights latkes. $ B Br L f 64 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

FRANK'S MEAT & PRODUCE 3342 Preston Hwy., 3633989. Frank’s has been around a long time, treating those in the know to piled-high deli sandwiches for prices so reasonable it might seem you stepped into a time warp.

There are steaks and chops and produce and other groceries, but it is best known for lunchtime service, where the long lines move fast, and the constant turnover ensures freshness of sandwiches and soups. $ L D GALAN'S MEAT MARKET & DELI 2801 W. Market St., 614-8514. This old-school butcher shop also offers piledhigh deli sandwiches and sides such as German potato salad or sour cream macaroni and cheese salad. Eat-in at the handful of small tables or take away. $$ B L D HARVEY’S CHEESE 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market).

Lots of cheeses to choose from over the counter. At lunch, grilled cheese sandwiches (as exotic as you want) and daily blackboard specials. Call ahead to reserve an artisticallyarranged and tasty party tray of cheese, charcuterie and fruit. $$ B Br L f HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-6001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany IN, 941-9426. Before holidays, you go in and carry out huge spiral-sliced hams or turkey breasts or beef roasts for your own parties. In the off season, you sit down in the café and order generous, filling sandwiches made from those same meats, served on rolls or croissants, cold or with a hot cheese melt. Soup and salads too. And cookies. $ L D f JASON’S DELI 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 896-0150, 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101. Don’t look for a New York kosher-style deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ L D f JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that include cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $LD JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP (11 Locations) This national sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ L D f LADY TRON’S 147 E. Market St., New Albany, IN 7259510. You won’t recognize the former Little Chef building, which is where new owner Summer Seig has created an eclectic, sci-fi theme for her soup and sandwich diner.

Outside is Lady Tron, a smiling robot with red hair and a yellow apron; inside, you can find seasonal soups and sandwiches. $ B L D LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 454-7831.

Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semi-fast food. $ L D f

LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago style hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a fair price. $ L D f LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. This familyowned pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta has been in operation for 37 years now. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand three-deep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfy café, to eat that deli sandwich, or get coffee and dessert. $ L D f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-2700. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ L MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5610024. $ B L MCALISTER’S DELI (10 Locations) Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ L D MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 4581668, 110 W. Chestnut St. (U fo L Med Center), 2132409. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner.

Mostly for takeout - it packs in a few crowded tables - it’s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare at both the Highlands and downtown locations. $ L NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004. An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton, this little outlet, inside Theater Square Marketplace, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ BL PANERA BREAD CO. (11 Locations) Warm breads finishbaked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ BLDf PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 896-8918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5070, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ L D PAYNE STREET BAKEHOUSE 225 S. Spring St., 8958323. Nancy’s Bagel Grounds has remodeled the space that had been Willingers Beer Depot after moving from its longtime digs on Frankfort Ave. Despite the name change, you can still get bagels and cream cheese with your coffee or juices as well as a breakfast sandwich called The Willinger. Lunch, too. $ L D PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ L D POTBELLY SANDWICH SHOP 302 S. Fourth St., 5401100, 4023 Summit Plaza Dr., 420-9616, 9018 Taylorsville Rd., 290-4820. This local outpost of the Chicago chain offers substantial sandwiches, salads and even breakfast sandwiches and oatmeal both to the downtown lunch crowd along Fourth St., and out at the Summit in the eastern suburbs. $ L D PRIMO’S DELICATESSEN 153 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 913-0491. It’s just what New Albany needed, a little New York style to give East Coast pizzazz to the downtown dining choices. Serving breakfast and lunch, so look for bagels and a schmear, and meaty sandwiches piled high. $ Br L QUIZNO’S SUBS 223 S. Fifth St., 589-5520, 11803 Shelbyville Rd., 253-5833, 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7849, 220 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-1419. Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats,

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 65

veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ L f ROADRUNNER KITCHEN 37 Bank St. New Albany IN, 924-7024. Stacie Bale, who operated Earth Friends Café, has opened this healthful, grab-and-go lunch spot that offers garden and spinach salads, wraps, falafel, power smoothies, espressos and fresh juices. $ L SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 425-8447.

The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ B L D f SEEDS AND GREENS NATURAL MARKET & DELI 207 W. First St., New Albany IN, 944-3800. Browse among the organic vegetables and health foods, and stop by the deli for soups and salads, hot and cold sandwiches, vegan, vegetarian and omnivore preparations. $ L D SOUPY’S 3027 Hunsinger Ln., 451-5325. Back in 1987, Danny Bowling’s mother-in-law, Bette, started making pots of soup in a corner of Bowling's Meats & Deli, a family courtesy that led in 1995 to Soupy’s. Now it’s about 2 million cups of soup later, by Soupy’s estimate, all using Bette’s recipes, cooked up in small batches daily. Salads, sandwiches (including veggie burgers) and sweets as well. $LD STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 584-3354.

This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ L SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075. The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing menu. $ L D

salad restaurant offers locally sourced soups and salads and fresh lemonade. The menu includes the Bluegrass Blackberry salad; shrimp, chicken taco and maki shrimp salads; and soups such as creamy tomato and sausage, kale and potato. Be sure to try one of three fresh lemonades on offer daily. $$ L D WHICH WICH? 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 290-3721, 221 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 708-2535, 13124 W. Hwy 42, 2280621, 3531 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 920-0637.

The concept here is “create your own sandwich” and draws on 50 toppings choices including sauerkraut, roasted red peppers, crispy onion strings, and hummus. The subs are the draw, but they also have wraps, gyros and now a variety of shakes. $$ B L D ZOUP! 318 S. Fourth St., 963-0777. Another chain outlet downtown gives all the lawyers and government workers another choice for soups, sandwiches and salads, plenty of low-fat, dairy-free and vegetarian choices that will rotate daily. $ L D

ANGIE'S HOME COOKING FAMILY RESTAURANT 2622 W. Broadway, 450-6200. Chef/owner Angie Bishop cooks the kind of familiar family meals that haunt your childhood — things like smothered pork chops, candied yams and corn pudding. Daily specials offer a choice of meat and two sides for under $10. Banana pudding is always a dessert choice. $ B L D BELLA’S DINER 4106 Taylor Blvd., 749-1771. $ L D BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours).

If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski,

there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ B L D h BURGER GIRL 3334 Frankfort Ave., 709-5454. Dan Borsch, who owns the Old Louisville Tavern, Toonerville Tavern, Old Louisville Pizza Company and Burger Boy Diner, is expanding into Crescent Hill. Burger Girl, in the former Bluegrass Burgers space, is a 24-hour burger grill, the sister to long-time somnambulists’ favorite Burger Boy. $$ B L D hf CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad.

The open-faced roast beef sandwich, with mashed potatoes and brussels sprouts, is a F&D favorite. $ L D pf COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 244-9497.

This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ L COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Longtime neighborhood fixture Cottage Inn has a bright new look, and continues happily doling out the kind of excellent down-home food it has served since 1929. $ L D D. NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. The nostalgia here is almost palpable. The interior has been upgraded, but changed as little as possible. The food offerings continue to be diner standards, like what was served when it first opened 50+ years ago. $ B L D DAVE & PEG’S COPPER KETTLE 276 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 256-4257. $ B L D EXECUTIVE BISTRO 1930 Bishop Ln. (Watterson Towers) 365-2848. This bright little spot provides grilled sandwiches, soups, salads and snacks to office workers in Watterson Towers. $ B L

SUPERIOR MARKET & DELI 307 W. Broadway, 8223715. Snack on sandwiches, hot dogs, doughnuts and hot pretzels – or visit the salad bar and a pizza counter.

Downtown dwellers will discover a good selection of groceries, including fresh vegetables and paper products, at very un-fancy prices. $ B L SWEET PEACHES 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 356-0232.

Breakfast, sandwiches and soups are what you will find at this West End spot. And don’t overlook fresh baked goodies like brownies and cookies or the chance to wash them down with peach-flavored sweet tea. This also is the location of the monthly Sweet Peaches Poetry Slam. $ B L D SWEET PEACHES 2 ROLL 2900 W. Broadway (Nia Center), 302-8118. Pam Haines, owner of the popular West Louisville restaurant Sweet Peaches, has opened a quick-service version inside the Nia Center — a meeting place for the neighborhood and a city-organized workforce development center. Patrons and neighbors can meet in the lobby and enjoy coffee, sandwiches, salads and fresh pastries. $ B L THE BLOCK GOURMET DELI 14041 Shelbyville Rd., 7854689. A husband and wife team with considerable experience in restaurants runs this Middletown deli. Fans report excellent thick sandwiches, fresh salads and homemade soups. Box lunches and catering also available. $$ L D THELMA’S DELI 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200.

Located in the glassed-in walkway (conservatory) between the two hotel towers, Thelma’s provides breakfast items, coffee, sandwiches and snacks 24/7 for Galt House guests and anyone else who needs, say, a pizza at 3 a.m. $$ B L Dh VINAIGRETTE SALAD KITCHEN 203 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 205-9933. This Lexington-based modestly upscale

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 65

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 66

FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930. Steamtable service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ L D p FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 883-1462. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in downhome comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $LD GERALDINE’S KITCHEN 402 Wall St., Jeffersonville IN, 924-7707. Geraldine is the late mother of owner/chef Bob Hoyland; Geraldine’s Kitchen is a tribute to her sense of hospitality. Breakfast and lunch are served in an inviting, homey atmosphere. $ B L GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 339-8070.

Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ B Br L D HOSANNA'S KITCHEN 139 S. 44th St., 778-0085. This far West End soul food place has emblematic southern comfort food: fried or baked chicken, fried fish, salmon croquettes, pork chops in gravy, long-cooked green beans, pinto beans, cabbage and baked apples. $ L D LIL' WAGNERS 4520 Poplar Level Rd., (Derby City Gaming), 961-7600. A sit-down restaurant when you need a break from betting. Burgers and sandwiches (including fried bologna), starters like nachos, fried pickles and crab cakes, and soups and salads. Also a grab-and-go menu of wraps, sandwiches and desserts. $ L D h METRO DINER 4901 Outer Loop, 357-0767. The first local outlet of this Florida-based chain features "classic comfort food with flair.” Harking back to the glory days of diners, Metro Diner offers breakfast, lunch and dinner menus all day long. Signature dish is fried chicken and waffles, with burgers, seafood and salads also available. $$ B L D O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steamtable favorites, available from breakfast to dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $ B L D hp SANDI'S KITCHEN 5300 Cane Run Rd., 384-4823. Good ol' southern hospitality and home-made food are the draws at this modest place in the far southwest of the city. The menu includes chicken-fried steak, meatloaf and liver and onions. $ B L D THE COZY KITCHEN 1554 Bardstown Rd., 451-0024. This little take-out spot in the Highlands offers familiar, homecooked style meals with a rotating menu. Among the choices, depending on the day, are chicken and dumplings, red chili, mac and cheese, pot roast, butternut squash soup. Dinners come with 2 sides. $ L D WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800. A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round. Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ B L

BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 7729580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitable place in the West End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all home-cooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ L D BOOK & BOURBON SOUTHERN KITCHEN 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). This library-themed concept at this upscale, airport dining venue offers more than 100 bourbons, along with a classic craft cocktail list.

The food menu tweaks Southern comfort food with items such as fried green tomato Benedict and short rib hush puppies. $$ B L D h p 66 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

BRAMBLE 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market). Like most in the Market, Bramble is a counter service spot, serving up Southern food at all three meals. Look for pork belly Reubens and daily lunch specials, and Atlanta brisket (marinated in Coca-Cola) and espresso-rubbed pork belly. $$ L D f CRYSTAL'S SOUTHERN FOOD & SPIRITS 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 618-4200. This Jeffersontown family spot serves breakfast (omelets, biscuits and gravy, chicken and grits), lunch (catfish sandwich, burgers and tacos) and dinner (short ribs, chicken, steak, pork chops and seafood). $$ B L D p DAISY MAE’S 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany IN, 944-8101.

Daisy Mae’s offers southern food and hospitality. The menu includes fried chicken and cod, meatloaf, mashed potatoes, collards and pinto bean soup every day. Look for daily specials that include a regularly rotating fruit cobbler and red velvet cake. $ L D f DASHA BARBOUR’S SOUTHERN BISTRO 2217 Steier Ln., 882-2081, 1300 Muhammad Ali Blvd., 749-0094.

The Buechel location cer¬tainly gives the “bistro” concept a down-home Southern twist. Both locations serve familiar home-style fried chicken and fish, a vegetable plate with three sides choices, burgers, pork chop sandwich, and chicken wings. Sides include sweet potato casserole studded with pecans, fried corn on the cob and collard greens. $$ B L D FLO'S HOUSE OF SOUL 3400 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 966-2213. You order at the window and eat on the patio, which has heaters for cooler weather and TVs for watching big games. Owner Jason Hatcher tries to do good for his community, offering food rewards to kids with good report cards. Choices include burgers, chili dogs, Philly cheesesteaks, whiting and catfish sandwiches, nachos and ice cream. $$ Br D hpf FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ L D FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 448-8044. Long-time fans of Jay’s Cafeteria (including politicians and national entertainers) are no longer bereft. Jay’s former owners serve up Southern Soul food in Shively at family-friendly prices. Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $ L D LUCRETIA’S KITCHEN 1812 West Muhammad Ali Blvd.

(Chef Space), 294-8143. It’s Wing Wednesday, Rib Tip Thursday, Fried Fish Friday and Soul Food Sunday at this ambitious little startup operating in the business incubator in the near West End. $$ Br L D MAMA’S KITCHEN CARRYOUT 603 N. 26th St., 5655760. This little West End order-at-the-window place serves up sandwiches, snacks (with 1 side), dinners (with 2) – things like hot dogs, pulled pork and chicken, meatloaf, smothered pork chops and fried chicken and fish on Fridays. $ L D

Owner Mary Jenefor occasionally gives free meals to those in need in the community. $ L D SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. This Smoketown institution draws hungry locals as well as celebrities in town hungry for the soul food of their youth.

BBQ ribs and hot-water cornbread cooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chicken wings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley Mae Beard’s spice rack — salt and pepper. $ L D SOUL FOOD DINING 4900 Poplar Level Rd., 915-8239. A cafeteria-style restaurant that offers all that a soul food fan would want: BBQ chicken, meatloaf, ribs, pork chops (with or without gravy), catfish, buffalo, and whiting, mac and cheese, mashed potatoes, greens, green beans, sweet potatoes and slaw. $$ L D SOUTHERN EXPRESS 418 W. Oak St., 963-1719. This well-known West End carryout spot has moved into a sitdown location in Old Louisville. There, classic soul food is served for eat-in or takeout and at rock-bottom prices.

Diners build their own meal at $1 per item. Choices vary daily, but look for fried chicken, cooked cabbage, fried whiting, pork roast, fried or smothered pork chops, mac and cheese and rib tips. $ L D f SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY 3402 W. Broadway, 8221474. A family sports bar that satisfies all ages with its homey atmosphere and its well-crafted familiar food like double cheeseburgers, fried chicken with hot water cornbread, catfish, wings and ribs. $ L D hp SUE'S TOUCH OF COUNTRY 2605 Rockford Ln., 4505059. Sue’s provides Shively with the kind of “stick to your ribs” food you go to a country/family style restaurant for. Daily Specials, homemade desserts and breakfast served all day. $ B L D V-GRITS 1025 Barret Ave., 742-1714. Vegan food truck VGrits has settled down in the former Monkey Wrench corner and is cooperating there with False Idol Brewers. VGrits co-owner Kristina Addington defines her menu as “southern comfort food, stick to your ribs, healthy junk food.” $$ L D hpf

CRAVINGS ALA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 584-6846. This thrifty deli offers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-and-salad bar and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes and a monthly ethnic creation. $ L GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 5362 Dixie Hwy., 447-6660, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville IN. 258-2540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ B L D

MATTIE'S KITCHEN 1018 S. 15th St., (St. Stephens Family Life Center), 544-8954. Open Wednesdays and Fridays for lunch and dinner, and Sundays for after-church dining.

The flexible menu can list fried or baked chicken, pork chops, mac n’ cheese, spaghetti and meatballs, and on Fridays, catfish is a special. $ Br L

B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd.(Oxmoor Center), 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Center. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ L D hp

MISS ADA’S 510 E. Chestnut St., 561-3762. $ L

BARRELHOUSE ON MARKET 1005 W. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-6373. Andrew and Michelle Collins renovated down-to-the-heels dive bar into a spiffy, lively drinking establishment and music venue with a small, tasty menu: a slider assortment, buffalo and BBQ wings, pretzels and queso. $$ D hpfe

SCENE 501 W. Main St. Scene is the latest dining venture in the space at the Kentucky Center for the Arts that has seen a lot of things come and go. Open before shows for drinks and small plate dining served in the fast-casual style. Flatbreads, burgers, pasta dishes, crab cakes; a small but good wine and beer selection and a full bar. $$ D hp SHINE'S DINER 3400 W. Market St., 510-9310. This West End restaurant sells soul food, seafood, burgers and wings and Philly cheesesteak fries (topped with steak, green onions, green peppers, mozzarella and cheddar cheese).

BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 409-9422.

Lively music offerings and excellent barbecue have made this Lower Highlands bar and grill a satisfying place to dine. The BBQ comes as pulled chicken, pork and brisket in sandwiches or full dinners. $ L D hpfe

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 67

BEEF O’BRADY’S 241 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St., 6373737, 11324 Preston Hwy., 969-5559, 105 LaFollette Ct., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1316. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ L D h f BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 893-4487.

Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ L D hpf BROWNIE’S THE SHED GRILLE & BAR 9900 Linn Station Rd., 326-9830, 826 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 920-0030. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Brown used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his two sports pubs, the area’s official homes for Cincinnati Bengals fans. $ L D hpfe BUBBA'S 33 4631 Medical Plaza Way, Clarksville IN, 2845933. The 12th location of the growing chain from the guys at Texas Roadhouse, Bubba’s is a family friendly sports bar with TVs galore and corn hole boards on the patio. The menu offers chicken with two types of bacon, chili-rubbed salmon, smoked chipotle wings, a spicy habanero burger and pizzas. $$ D p BUD’S TAVERN GOOD FOOD & BARBECUE 4014 Dixie Hwy., 384-9131. This spiffed up Shively outpost offers honest bar food that’s receiving high praise. Check out the “gently fried” grouper, burgers (including a Reuben burger), burritos and barbecue. $ L D hpfe BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area boasts 23 HDTVs including a 5- by 7foot HD projector for 3D football viewing, a game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ L D hpfe

sandwiches and Tavern Specialties like grilled flat iron steak and southern-fried cod. $$ L D hp FALLS CITY TAPROOM 901 E. Liberty St., 257-7147. This historic brand that was first brewed in 1905 has been revived (2010) and re-imagined as a modern craft beer.

Now you can sip on their offerings at their new taproom and beer garden operating just east of downtown where Phoenix Hill and NuLu merge. Food is also offered tableside from the adjacent Bandido Taqueria Mexicana. $$ L D hpf FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 585-3700.

Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ L D hpf FORT KNOCKERS MESS HALL 5501 Valley Station Rd., 890-3585. This bar and grill in the far Southwest corner of the city has a rousing military theme, including murals of local veterans donated by community members. Basic bar food, but done with care. Beer specials during football games and a patio with cornhole and other bar games. $$ L D hpf GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616. A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924.

Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ L D hpfe GOODWOOD BREWHOUSE & LIVE ROOM 134 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3281. On the second floor of Cox's Hot Chicken, this branch of Goodwood Brewing houses a small brewery and taproom where the firm plans to experiment with specialty releases. There is also a stage with sound and light systems, and special effects for a range of live entertainment. $$ L D hpfe GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 637-9128. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus

offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ L D hp GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton Garden Inn), 637-2424. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ Br D pf GRIFF’S 133 W. Liberty St., 939-3535. Griff, of course, is U of L b-ball great Darrell Griffith (Dr. Dunkenstein), who has transformed the former Hurricane O’Malley’s location into an upscale sports bar and late-night party place. The menu offers Southern food and burgers, including the “Fast Break” burger served between homemade sweet potato waffles. $$ L D hpf GROWLER USA 3010 Gottbrath Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 748-2622. This expanding franchise operation offers local and regional craft beers, draught wines (served out of the barrel), hard ciders and kombucha. Let their cicerone lead you to beverage pairings with their familiar, hearty pub menu – lots of burgers, beer cheese soup, salads and sandwiches, and a limited entree selection. $$$ L D hpf GYPSY’S SPORTS GRILLE 7207 Fegenbush Ln., 9090922. “Gypsy” is the name of the owner’s rescued Boston terrier. The husband-wife team who own this Fern Creek hangout offer all that a sports fan could want: wings and ribs, nachos, potato skins, fried pickles, sandwiches, pork chops and steaks. $$ L D hpfe HELL OR HIGH WATER 112 W. Washington St., 587-3057.

The entrance is through Hello Curio, an ostensible arts and crafts gallery. Downstairs is the main bar in a two-story library with a mezzanine floor, looking out onto a small live entertainment area. Craft cocktails are bourbon-focused but not exclusively. There is a small bites menu, but drinks are the center of the “speakeasy” experience. $$ D hpe

THE BUTCHERTOWN SOCIAL 1601 Story Ave., 8903892. Entrepreneur Isaiah Hoagland, who now owns the site that used to be Louis’s The Ton, has renovated it minimally, added a small kitchen, and now serves tacos, sandwiches and a few sides. These additions make the neighborhood bar ambiance even more appealing. $ D hpf DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513, 630 Barret Ave., 690-7040. St. Matthews’ newest restaurateur star, Jared Matthews, began his career here, revitalizing this neighborhood institution for a new generation. Both locations (the second at the old silos on the edge of downtown) are major music venues.

The food is just what happy concert-goers look for: pizza, burgers, wings, beer cheese, sandwiches and wraps.$ L D hpfe DIAMOND STREET GRUB & HOPS 3920 Shelbyville Rd., 709-5113. Jared Matthews’ St. Matthews restaurant empire grows again with a cosmopolitan street food and craft beer restaurant that replaces the recently shuttered Mellow Mushroom pizzeria. Expect to find every street-style food one can think of: classic street tacos, Thai wings, elotes, Philly cheesesteaks, a Chicago-style hot dog called The Wrigley and Korean meatballs among other items familiar and exotic. $$ L D hpfe DRAKE’S 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 614-7327, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr., 384-3921. Lexington-based Bluegrass Hospitality Group has two local outlets that offer twenty-four craft beers on tap to wash down the traditional pub grub of tacos, ribs and — these days — sushi. Family-friendly by day and a hoppin’ spot at night, with music videos and a DJ. $$ L D hpf DUNDEE TAVERN 2224 Dundee Rd., 458-6637. After a few flips and changes, Dundee Tavern has found its soul again as a neighborhood bar. A lot of beer choices on draft and in bottles, and a comfort food menu that includes wings and fingers, fried pickles, chili, burgers and

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 67

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 68

HIGHLANDS TAPROOM GRILL 1058 Bardstown Rd., 584-5222. Another nice choice for beer and bar food along the B’town Rd. corridor, but owner Tommy Clemons’ menu includes, but extends beyond, the usual beer cheese, chili and burgers. Look for the crabby patty or the French toast sausage. The pulled pork spring rolls are on their way to becoming legendary. $$ L D hpfe HILLCREST TAVERN 3212 Frankfort Ave., 290-6917. Dan Borsch, who runs several Old Louisville spots like Burger Boy Diner and Old Louisville Tavern, has expanded into Clifton with this renovation of a long-time neighborhood watering hole. The menu mirrors that of Old Louisville Tavern, with burgers, sandwiches, appetizers and a few entrée items. A vintage 100-year old bar will anchor the nostalgic ambiance. $$ L D hpe HILLTOP TAVERN 1800 Frankfort Ave., 742-2908. The Skelton brothers (John is an alum of Seviche) have settled in at this prime Clifton location. Their tavern fare is focused on barbecue, with pulled pork and beer-butt chicken specialties, along with hefty sandwiches (their meatloaf is a standout). $ D hp HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 239-4724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ L D hpf HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot that boasts 3 different steak sandwiches, along with pizza, burgers and chicken. $ L D hpf HOPCAT 1064 Bardstown Rd., 890-8676. This Highlands attraction seats up to 300 in the dining room, three private party rooms and a covered second floor patio. HopCat touts its 132 craft beers on tap, at least 30 of which are locally made, as the largest selection in Kentucky. Lunch and dinner offers homemade pub grub: burgers, mac & cheese, Detroit-style square pizza with cheesy crust, and signature “crack fries.” Saturday and Sunday brunch as well. $$ Br L D hpf INTERNATIONAL TAP HOUSE 637 E. Main St. The St. Louis-based chain has opened on the ground floor of the Main & Clay apartment building. Not a brewery, but a purveyor of hundreds of craft beers, ciders and a limited selection of wine. Patrons are invited to bring in food from neighboring businesses. $$ p f J-TOWN BEACH 10315 Watterson Trl., 558-0881. This family fun sports complex offers sand volleyball leagues and also offers Quills coffee and Comfy Cow ice cream. $ L D hpfe JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville IN, 288-2100.

Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ L D hpf JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 449-4940. $BLD KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern, a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978, offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and soups. The hamburgers, though, might be the best unpretentious burgers in town: freshly ground daily, always cooked perfectly, and served on a toasted bun. $ L D pf KHALIL’S 10966 Dixie Hwy., 632-2227. A family sports bar in Valley Station boasts plenty of TVs, including some tabletop TVs in booths. Menu presents the usual bar food suspects — salads, wings, burgers — but the burgers are on pretzel buns. $ L D hp MIKE’S TAVERN 3521 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 9458915. A friendly tavern up in the Knobs above New Albany. $ L D p 68 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere, has expanded their craft beer selection. The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads.

Homemade soups are created daily. Breakfast served until 2 p.m. $$ Br L D p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ L D hpfe NIRVANA 1047 Bardstown Rd., 712-0813. Nirvana has become a Highlands entertainment destination with live shows most nights. Darnell Ferguson, of Super Chefs, has taken over the kitchen, so look for his takes on the eclectic menu: bang bang cauliflower, bougie fries, dog bone wings and the McNasty sandwich. $$ L D hpe OLD HICKORY INN 1038 Lydia St., 634-3011. The Schnitzelburg building has been around forever, has suffered indignities, like a fire that gutted it, but has always bounced back. Now it has expanded its presence with a new kitchen, outdoor deck and a food menu aimed to be competitive with other Germantown hangouts. $ L D hp OLD LOUISVILLE TAVERN 1532 S. Fourth St., 637-4200.

It’s risen from the ashes, the interior gutted and redone, a new kitchen installed, but the menu is the same as before: top-flight bar grub made from scratch. An expanded beer program with 16 new taps includes a selection of local and craft beers. $$ L D hpf O-LINE SPORTS GRILL 2813 N Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3846171. You can watch every game, every sport all year long, they claim. While you do, you can chow down a variety of bar food, such as the juicy Lucy cheese burger or nacho burger. The kids might like the mini-footballs, franks encased in pastry dough, fried and served with dipping sauces. $ L D hp PEARL STREET TAPHOUSE 407 Pearl Street, Jeffersonville IN, 285-0890. Located in an historic home that was saved through a preservation grant, this pub has 24 taps with a heavy focus on local breweries, with regional and national choices as well. Food choices range from pizzas to baconwrapped dates to corned beef grilled cheese sandwiches.

Everything is fresh and nothing is deep-fried. $ L D p f PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. This casual-dining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$ D h p PINTS&UNION 114 E. Market St., New Albany IN., 9134647. Beer maven (and F&D contributor) Roger Baylor and partner Joe Phillips have renovated an old neighborhood bar, where the taps dispense familiar quality beers and ales, the bar crafts interesting cocktails and the bottled beer selection skews toward Belgian ales. The small kitchen offers pub-inspired small plates with an Indian accent. $ L D hp PORCH KITCHEN & BAR 280 W. Jefferson St. (Marriott), 671-4246. As part of the recent renovation of the Marriott, this all-day restaurant replaces Champions Sports Grill. The name reflects the intention of the new restaurant to be a homey, welcoming downtown spot.

Look for American-style comfort foods and a friendly bar.

B Br L D hpfe RECBAR 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 509-3033. Family fun is the object here, with games galore: pool and ping-pong, skeeball, arcade games (for Nintendo, Sega Genesis, Super NES) and card and board games. A full bar and pub-style food, too. $$ L D hp RIVER CITY DRAFTHOUSE 1574-1/2 Bardstown Rd., 6905111. Another beer joint along the Bardstown Road corridor boasts more than 20 taps focused on independent, American, craft beer (in sample, half-pint and pint sizes) and several bottled options. Its limited (for now) bar menu has garnered early praise for its wings. $$ L D hf

ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoal-grilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ L D hpf SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ L D hpfe SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337.

Despite minimal signage, Sergio’s Butchertown digs pull in his fans, who dig the quirky website, and the whole aura of haughty mystery. What you really need when you locate the place is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ D h THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramount Park Dr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want in a sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptions to all the pro and college sports networks, and hearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimp and salmon. $$$ L D hpf THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-1400. This Cordish-owned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ L D hpf SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St., 5846630. A classic American bar and grill, open late on weekends, dispensing cold beer, burgers, sandwiches and good cheer in a friendly atmosphere. The decor includes a collection of old bicycles hanging from the ceiling, and amenities include several video games and pool tables. $$ L D hp SULLIVAN’S TAP HOUSE 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 210-2388.

John Sullivan, Matt Taylor and Breno Giacomino, previously involved in the now-closed Sully's Saloon at 4th Street Live, have taken over the former Bluegrass Brewing Co. space in St. Matthews. Sullivan's offers a gastropubstyle menu created by Chef Steven Dunn. You’ll find reasonably priced cheeseburgers, hot brown sliders and fried catfish served alongside 20-plus craft beers and signature cocktails within sight of lots of TVs. $$ L D hpfe TAVERN ON FOURTH 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 588-8888. This spacious sports bar adds to the festivities at Fourth Street Live. You will find plenty of games, filling upscale bar food and lots of drink choices at the bar. $$ D hpfe THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 451-0659. You need a bit of perseverance to track down this saloon on the back side of Mid-City Mall. When you do, you will find one of the city’s friendliest pubs, with a reputation for the best pour of drinks around. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ D hpf THE EARL 109 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-2611.

This bar offers craft cocktails and upscale bar food such as spicy pimento cheese with pretzel bread, cheese and charcuterie boards, and roasted cauliflower with bleu cheese. $$ D hp THE GOAT 700 Landis Ridge Dr., 437-3000. Ohio-based LC Lifestyle Communities operates this small chain of unusually named upscale-casual restaurants. Enjoy Italian pizza rolls, stuffed potatoes, salads, “double-grind” burgers, wings, pizza, wraps and craft beer on the expansive deck or around the community pool, or join one of the competitive leagues in euchre, corn hole or volleyball. $$ L D hpfe THE LIBRARY 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664.

By day, the Library serves coffee, lattes and tea along with freshly baked pastries. By late afternoon, it morphs into a bourbon bar with locally inspired cocktails. $ B L hp THE PEARL 1151 Goss Ave., 996-7552. The Pearl aims to be a classic neighborhood pub (not unlike Pauly’s, which it replaces). It also aims to be a spirits-focused hangout, with

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 69

a bar menu limited to snacks like pickled eggs, country ham and cheese sandwiches and free popcorn or roasted nuts. In the works is a permanent food truck to be parked in the rear to expand food offerings. $$ L D hpf THE WATER COMPANY 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. There is a 3rd-floor rooftop pool at the new Omni Hotel, and this is the bar that goes with it, also offering seasonally-inspired light bites. $$ L D p f TIM TAM TAVERN 1022 Clarks Ln., 883-0101. Named for the 1958 Kentucky Derby winner, the Schnitzelburg/ Audubon neighborhood bar has a new look and a kitchen that serves bar staples like burgers, fried pickles and cheese curds plus pizza from Danny Mac’s Pizza. (Dan McMahon, owner of Danny Mac’s Pizza, is a partner.) $ L D p fe TIN ROOF 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1940. This Nashvillebased chain in the heart of St. Matthews has a split personality: a family-friendly vibe during the lunch hours; and a rockin’ juke joint at night with live music until 3 a.m. Its menu encompasses everything you expect from bar grub: deep-fried hot dogs, hot wings, quesadillas and salads for the ladies. $ L D hpfe TROLL PUB UNDER THE BRIDGE 150 W. Washington St., 618-4829. On the downslope alongside the Clark Memorial Bridge, a large troll beckons the adventurous into a space excavated out of the lost space in the old whiskey warehouse. The renovation boasts lots of dark, brick-walled spaces, as well as a funky outdoor dining area in the lightwell. The menu offers stacked sandwiches, bison burgers and sweet potato tots, and ribeye steaks. $$ L D hpf VIS A VIS BAR & GRILL 1164 S. Third St., 654-7057.

Replacing Barasti Bat & Grill, Vis a Vis, offers a Mediterranean and American menu. New owner Mike Al Muhtaseb and his wife Dima Radwan, who is the chef, serve up hummus, falafel, fried halloumi cheese, burgers, shawarma, kebabs and salads. $$ L D pfe ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, the arcade is stocked with vintage pinball and electronic games, and the Beer Can Collection is as long as your arm. The chow is high-quality bar grub — things like wings, fried egg rolls, pizzas, sandwiches, salads, and the Death Star cookie, baked in a skillet and topped with ice cream. And top-flight live music late into the night. $ L D hpfe

AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 5150174. Slugger Field once again has a beer-pub. The owners, veterans of the local brewing revival, have worked out an ambitious rotating beer selection and a smokehouse theme for the kitchen, with an emphasis on seasonal dishes. $$ L D pf APOCALYPSE BREW WORKS 1612 Mellwood Ave., 5894843. Veteran home brewers Leah Dienes, Paul Grignon and Bill Krauth run this brewery in Butchertown, dedicated to fresh craft beer in a space that heats with solar, recycles and reuses materials and grains. Their taproom, dubbed The Fallout Shelter, serves up to 10 of their concoctions. $ h BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 300 W. Main St., 562-0007, 660 S. Fourth St., 899-7070. BBC has reopened its Theater Square outlet, right in front of the Kindred expansion, which displaced the former restaurant/beer pub. The Main St. location does the brewing, and upstairs boasts a Bourbon lounge. At both locations, the food is as good as the beer, and that says a lot. $$ L D hpfe CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 458-8727.

Giving new meaning to the term “microbrewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-

fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality hand-crafted artisan beers. $ L D hf DONUM DEI BREWERY 3211 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 541-2950. Owner Rick Otey maintains that beer is a gift from god, hence the name of his craft brewery. The interior is starkly Scandinavian modern. A recentlyacquired distilling permit will lead to the area’s first “brewstillery.” $ L D hp FLAT 12 BIERWERKS 130 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3219. Flat 12 has the fermenters, barrels and other technical accouterments right out front, producing five house beers, four seasonal brews and some select beers for special events. You can see it all getting kegged or bottled, too, as you sample. $ Br L D fe FLOYD COUNTY BREWING CO. 129 W. Main St., New Albany IN, (470) 588-2337. Walk in this new brewpub and you will find what looks like a medieval banquet hall, but scaled down to a Yorkshire public house. Brewer Jeff Coe’s repertoire includes Braun Jovi (Brown Ale), Hefe’ns Gate Hefeweizen and Vlad’s India Pale Ale, which complement perfectly menu items like fish and chips and oversized turkey legs. $ L D h GORDON BIERSCH BREWERY RESTAURANT 400 S. Fourth St., 589-8935. The growing national brewery and restaurant chain has become an anchor at the corner location at 4th and Liberty, brewing their characteristic German-style bottom-fermented lagers, Hefeweizen, bocks, pilsners and Schwarzbiers. The large menu offers the usual pub-grub, but touted as fresh, seasonal and made on the premises. $$$ Br L D hpf GRAVELY BREWING CO. 514 Baxter Ave., 822-3202.

Gravely offers 14 draft choices, all brewed and served on site. The brewery partners with Mayan Street Food, run by The Mayan Café. Walk up to the truck and order snacks like guacamole fried plantains, Mexican corn, salbutes or tacos. Brunch on Sunday is provided by Commonwealth Cure with items like pork hash, Scotch eggs, or pork sliders. Plus, a full brunch drink selection. $ Br L D hpfe MONNIK BEER CO. 1036 E. Burnett Ave., 742-6564. The gastropub style menu includes a range of Euro-inspired pub food like three kinds of double-fried fries, fried smelts, a ploughman’s plate, pork and black currant pie, sauerbraten, and burgers. The beer menu adds changing guest brews to the house menu of Mild George and King George (British style brown ales), His Dark materials (a stout) and Hauck’s American pilsner. $$ L D hpfe RED YETI BREWING CO. 256 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. 288-5788. This craft brewery has an ambitious kitchen touting food so fresh in concept, they have no freezer. The brisket sandwich comes with house-made chips, the pork ribs are braised in wheat ale, and desserts include funnel cake with chocolate dipping fondue and a beer float: vanilla ice cream in your choice of porter or stout. $$ L D hp

DAVE & BUSTER'S 5000 Shelbyville Rd., (Mall St. Matthews), 963-0940. Fun galore with arcade, billiards, sports TVs, and a 16 page menu with surprising options for every special diet like flavorful lettuce wraps, the Impossible Burger and full entrees like steaks or salmon plus expected bar fare: nachos, sliders and wings.

Desserts, beers and festive cocktails of impressive size, too. $$ L D hp DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinnertheater sweepstakes. The expansive seasonal buffet offerings have fans returning show after show. $$$ L D pe HOWL AT THE MOON 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 562-9400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub featuring a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 69

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 70

and a sing-along concept? You’ll find this 4,000-squarefoot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ D hpfe JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$$ L D pf MAIN EVENT BAR & GRILL 12500 Sycamore Station Pl., 240-5555. This Dallas-based chain offers plenty of fun: bowling, laser tag, a high ropes course, billiards, video games — along with pizzas, sandwiches, full dinners and a full bar. $$ L D hp MESA 216 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 725-7691. Mesa calls itself a “collaborative kitchen-classroom,” in which local established and aspiring chefs offer cooking demonstrations and food prep advice for a small audience, who will then eat what the chefs prepare before them.

There is also a boutique selling high-end cookware and food products. $$ D p MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ L D p PIN + PROOF 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664.

The Omni’s bar has a cool angle. There are four bowling lanes, as well as hors d’oeuvres to enjoy in the “the opulent and mysterious atmosphere." $ D hp THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275. The second floor theater continues to be a top local venue for all sorts of theater, improv and silly/hilarious roasts of toys (Barbie), computer game characters (Mario) and years (2017). Downstairs, the menu offers Shakespeare-themed items such as Iambic Pork-tameter, Sir Francis BBQ Bacon Burger and The Steakspeare. $$ D hpfe

ABYSSINIA 554 S. Fifth St., 384-8347. This downtown Ethiopian restaurant has gained many fans with its variety of hearty stews, known as “wots,” and interesting vegetarian choices, with large portions and reasonable prices. $ L D

chicken suqaar (a chicken stew-like dish) or goat seasoned with onions and green peppers. $$ L D MAA SHA ALLAH 4113 Bardstown Rd., 491-3152. The name is an Arabic blessing or expression of joy, meaning “Whatever Allah wants to give.” This little Buechel storefront is another example of the entrepreneurial spirit of recent immigrants, in this case from Senegal and Sierra Leone. The menu is African, the ambiance modest, the food spicy and tasty. $$ L D QUEEN OF SHEBA 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ L D ZIBA’S BISTRO 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 7970633. The rich cuisine of his native Burkina Faso in Central West Africa is Chef Bapion Ziba’s main inspiration, but he brings elements of European and American flavors too. Tiguedigue chicken, cooked with vegetables in a peanut sauce, will be a signature dish. $$

888 GREAT WALL 9464 Brownsboro Rd., 425-2811. Strip mall Chinese food is an accurate description of what to expect here. Locals from the neighborhood have said good things about the garlic chicken and their crab Rangoon. $ LD A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582, 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888. Competent cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes this buffet a good choice among the many of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ L D ASIAN WOK 2235 Frankfort Ave., 822-3285. This panAsian spot offers a very large selection of Chinese & Japanese dishes in the stir-fried, hibachi-grilled and sushi categories. A lot of familiar things — Kung Pao chicken, pepper steak with onion, veggie fried rice, rainbow roll, hibachi steak, and so on. $$ L D

ADDIS GRILL 109 S. Fourth St., 581-1011. The signage of this downtown ethnic eatery promises “Mediterranean & Ethiopian Cuisine,” but the menu offers mostly Mediterranean standbys — kabobs, hummus, baba ghannouj, dolmades, tabbouleh. $ L D h

AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569. August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng Looi, long known for his passion for fusing Asian culinary traditions. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and from the staff makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant alfresco dining experience. $$$ L D hpf

AFRICA HOUSE LOUNGE & CAFÉ 2816 Crums Ln., 3847240. West African and Jamaican cuisine, a full service bar and Reggae and Afrobeats on the sound track. The unique taste here is the Ghanaian shito sauce, a complex hot and tangy condiment. $ L D h

CHEER KING STAR 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. Just what downtown needed — a Chinese buffet for quick lunches.

Mostly the familiar, a mix of Cantonese, Szechuan and Hunan choices for those who need a little spice to fire them up to get back to work. $ L D

BARAKA RESTAURANT 519 W. Oak St., 822-3046. This all-halal restaurant serves African, Asian and Indian dishes.

At the counter you pick a meat and choose an accompaniment of rice, bread or noodles. The fish curry with chapati and chicken saqaar with rice are good examples. Goat is often available for those who want to try something different. $ L D

CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ L D

FUNMI’S AFRICAN RESTAURANT 3028 Bardstown Rd., 454-5009. Funmi’s offers a range of dishes from North and Central African cultures. Sample goat in a soup or a thick stew. Try soya, a West African shish kebab with a spicy peanut rub or moin-moin, a savory bean cake or lablabi, a Tunisian chickpea soup. $$ L D IMANKA RESTAURANT 737 S. Eighth St., (International Mall) 210-7503. Somali immigrant entrepreneur Mohamed Abbi Abdalla and his family serve their native cuisine at the International Mall. Suggested dishes include 70 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

CHINA 1 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D CHINA BISTRO 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ L D h CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ L D CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 969-9222, 9246 Westport Rd., 425-1818. $ L D CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ L D CHINA CHEF 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 384-5322. Pretty standard Chinese choices can be found at this new store in the South End. Eat in or carry out. $ L D

CHINA COAST 4952 Manslick Rd., 363-4259. $ L D CHINA DRAGON 8507 Terry Rd., 995-9897. The far southwest corner of the city can get its Chinese table hot food fix here. $ L D h CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ L D CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ L D CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500, 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. $ L D CHINA STAR 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 896-1818. $ L D CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 284-5580. $ L D CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ L D CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ L D h CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ L D CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. Fans of this somewhat funky Chinese place post positive notices about the quality of its food. No strange Asian dishes here, just familiar Chinese hot table fare that Americans recognize. $ L D CHUNG KING PALACE 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. Every neighborhood seems to need a Chinese steam table outlet serving up Asian dishes familiar to Americans. Double Dragon does that job for its neighborhoods. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3135 S. Second St., 3676668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 2675353.$LD DRAGON CAFÉ 13206 W. U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-1885. This Prospect-area Chinese restaurants offers many familiar dishes. East End fans say the service is quick and the food above-average tasty. $ L D EAST STAR BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $$ L D EGGROLL MACHINE 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. The Chinese side of the menu at Café Mimosa is presented as The Egg Roll Machine, as opposed to the Vietnamese dishes on the fine dining Mimosa menu. All the expected Chinese favorites are here, including combination platters. $ L D hp FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh Street Rd., 448-0588, 6413 Greenwood Rd., 935-6611. $ L D h GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $LDh GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3458 Taylor Blvd., 368-1833. $ L D h THE GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ L D GREAT WALL 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ L D h GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fast-food Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of wordof-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargain-basement price. $ L D HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ L D HAPPY DRAGON 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8788. You guessed it: a good, go-to standard pan-China family-style restaurant in Jeffersontown that’s always there when you’re tired of cooking dinner for the clan. $ L D

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 71

HIBACHI BUFFET 5372 Dixie Hwy., 449-8688. This far South Louisville Asian buffet gets strong positives from locals who appreciate its cleanliness, its range of choices (including hibachi grilled meats to order and sushi) and a buffet bar that is kept freshly loaded. $ L D p HIBACHI SUSHI BUFFET 5316 Bardstown Rd., 491-8228, 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788. Capitalizing on two seemingly persistent trends in American dining, this hot table place offers standard Chinese buffet dishes, and standard sushi choices. Cashew chicken, shrimp with garlic sauce, Dancing Dragon roll, spring and summer maki — it is all here. $$ L D HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 367-8828.

One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check out the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ L D h JADE PALACE 1109 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace offers familiar Chinese food choices, as well as a long list of Chef’s Specials, with names in Chinese characters as well as English (a sure sign you are in for authentic Chinese fare). Dim sum is offered daily, but on weekends it is served from a traditional rolling cart. $$ Br L D hp JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. Like many Chinese restaurants, Jasmine is in a strip mall, but this is not just another hot table stir fry joint. There is an American menu, but those in the know will ask for the 14page Szechuan menu, featuring such interesting things as pig ear in sesame oil, hot and spicy intestines, spicy diced rabbit foot, frog legs, beef maw and tendon Szechuan style — one of the most popular choices, the manager said. $ L Dp THE JOY LUCK 1285 Bardstown Rd., 238-3070, 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 618-1601. This fine Asian restaurant across from Mid-City Mall has opened a suburhan site too. Both serve familiar Chinese dishes very well done, as well as authentic Taiwanese offerings. Duck dishes are cooked in three different styles — Cantonese, Taiwanese and Beijing. $$ L D hpf JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 495-0028.

Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ L D h L & J ASIAN CUISINE 6017 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8399.

This Pan-Asian spot in the Kroger-anchored strip center at Hwy. 42 near River Rd. offers a large familiar Chinese selection that also includes Vietnamese, Thai and Japanese dishes, and a good vegetarian selection. $$ L D f LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ L D LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ LD NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ L D ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and wooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $ L Df

ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A long-time area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ L D PANDA CHINA 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ L D PANDA EXPRESS 1075 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN 2880774, 1232 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-8430, 13311 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3980, 10600 Westport Rd., 4251678. The Pentagon even has one of the 1500+ outlets of the nation’s largest Chinese fast food chains, and now we have four. Moderately priced chow such as orange chicken, Beijing beef, SweetFire chicken breast and honey walnut shrimp fill the menu. $ L D PEKING CITY EXPRESS 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 891-0388.

A lot of familiar items on the menu here, but those in the know ask for a Chinese menu, and order the dumplings or the xiao long bao (steam bun with meat filling). Dishes are handsomely presented, and servings are large. $$ L D QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ L D RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 3437 Breckinridge Ln., 499-7788. $ L D RICE BOX 6810 Southside Dr., 380-2209. This typical Chinese hot table provides South End residents with the kind of Chinese food you would expect at budget prices. $ LD SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 426-6767.

Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and wellmade dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ L D TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sit-down Chinese restaurant has a large and eclectic menu, with lots of spicy dishes and daily double shot specials at the inviting bar.

Now offering delivery to Norton Commons and adjacent suburbia. $$ L D hp WEI WEI CHINESE EXPRESS 526 S. Fifth St., 889-0827. $LD YANG KEE NOODLE 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 245-9264.

This locally owned and operated colorful and stylish fastcasual restaurant offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ L D f YEN CHING 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ L D YOKI BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-2277. A Chinese food-oriented buffet, with sushi as well, offers more options near the Jeffersontown Industrial Park along the Blankenbaker Rd. corridor. $$ L D YOU-A CARRY OUT-A 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 282-8881, 621 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-1788. $LD YUMMY CHINA 6445 Bardstown Rd., 231-0393. $ L D h

ASIAN / FILIPINO LOLA'S KITCHEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 290-6649. This Filipino restaurant reveals a cuisine that is a fusion of Spanish, Chinese, American and indigenous culture. Menu highlights: chicken/pork adobo, beef Kaldareta (beef stew in tomato sauce), and chicken arroz caldo, chicken cooked in a ginger-based broth, served with a hardboiled egg atop Chinese rice porridge. $$ Br L D f

ORIENTAL CAFÉ 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ L D ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017. New owners continue the tradition at this long-standing St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional ChineseAmerican and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ L D p

AJI SUSHI AND ASIAN CUISINE 5610 Outer Loop, 2052477. Okolona area residents can now get their sushi fix.

The extensive menu offerings include egg rolls, salads and soups, noodle, rice and curry dishes, and tempura, as well

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

as a large variety of raw and cooked sushi preparations. $ LDp ARATA SUSHI 9207 U.S. 42, 409-4880. Arata is a dedicated sushi place, with only a few items that fall outside of the maki, nigri and sashimi offerings. The elegant modern interior, and the commitment to the freshest ingredients have been drawing in fans from beyond the East End. $$ L D hp ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130. This small room in St. Matthews houses this neighborhood sushi spot where award-winning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ L D CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln., 4264441. This suburban Asian grocery now serves hot table fare to enjoy while shopping. $ L D DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 6322444, 129 W. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-8600.

Owner Toki Masubuchi’s eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists: pizza topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $ L D hpf FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$LDp FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978. Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ L D hp GINZA ASIAN BISTRO 9420 Shelbyville Rd., 749-8878. A one-stop Asian restaurant. Choose to eat from the Chinese, Japanese or Thai kitchen, or sidle up to the sushi bar for all manner of vegetarian or fish-focused rolls, or sushi combos that include miso soup and salad. A la carte sushi entrées too. $$ L D hp HEART & SOY 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. To the left is Roots, a sit-down restaurant. To the right is Heart & Soy, serving vegetarian “street food,” and entertaining passersby with a glass-walled tofu-making room. State-of-the-art equipment from Taiwan transforms organic soy beans from Ohio into soy milk and then coagulates and presses it into tofu as you watch. $ L D HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651, 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Japanese-trained chef Norihiko Nakanashi brings his skills to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. A second location takes over the downtown space from the former Caviar. $$$ L D hp IKEBANA 2901 Brownsboro Rd., 384-7284. This Crescent Hill space, site of the original Shariat’s and later Red Pepper Chinese, has been vacant for a while, but is now serving a range of Japanese fare, from hibachi grilled items to yakitori to a wide range of sushi rolls, including vegetarian options and sweet dessert rolls. $$ L D p KAI LANA SUSHI 6435 Bardstown Rd., 614-7244. Fern Creek gets its own sushi bar, with generous rolls priced competitively — nothing over $12. Four levels of 13piece, mix and match lunch specials, as well as rice, noodles and salads. $$ L D h KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-9538, 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-1870. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ L D hp KOBE JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese restaurant has been drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ L D p www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019

71

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 72

MASA JAPANESE 12336 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5040.

Middletown, too, joins in the sushi expansion. Open for lunch and dinner, the standard menu is bolstered by daily chef’s specials. Lunch specials include the Japadawg, a hot dog with Japanese toppings, a range of teriyaki choices and ramen noodles, Japanese style. $$ L D h MISAWA HIBACHI & SUSHI BAR 7931 Bardstown Rd., 290-1780 The hibachi grills here are not for show, just for grilling, which keeps prices lower than other Japanese steak houses. Rodeleo See, a sushi chef with almost two decades of experience runs the sushi bar. $$ L D p MT. FUJI 309 Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. The quick-eating strip on the north side of U of L’s campus needed a Japanese place to satisfy students’ sushi cravings. The menu also has tempura and Japanese noodles. $ L D p OISHII SUSHI 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 365-3474. This small, attractive and popular sushi spot serves all the popular maki and nigri near Bowman Field. $$ L D h OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing Clifton favorite also has a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ L D POKEHANA 436 W. Market St., 996-7994. Poke, an increasingly popular Hawaiian raw fish salad, is given a fast-casual Asian fusion twist here in the space that had been Chop Chop Salads. Choose your combination of protein and vegetables and toppings such as ginger, jalapeno and seaweed salad. Also fried rice, bibimbab and noodle-bab, made with sweet potato noodles.$$ L RAMEN HOUSE 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 7094374. Next to the Baxter Avenue Cinemas, Jonathan Ham, who formerly owned the popular Ramen Inochi, expanded his culinary range with a menu that includes traditional ramen, rice bowls, steamed buns and handmade gyoza. $$ Dh ROOTS 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6688. Veteran restaurateur Coco Tran looks to seduce the vegan/ vegetarian world of the Highlands with this crisp, elegant room. Eat at tables in the front, enjoy smoothies and tea at the bar, or snuggle down in a Japanese pit table in the back. Choose from an international selection of small plates. $ L D SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “fullservice” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ L D hp SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600. Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ L D SAMURAI 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036. Middletown gets some artistic sushi, as well as hibachi-grilled steak and seafood. Teppan-style (food cooked on an iron griddle) lunch and dinner entrees are a specialty. $$ L D p SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550. The remodeled Highlands location has an expanded kitchen, new sushi bar and new fixtures, giving trendy, glitzy Sapporo new bona fides as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. $$$ L D hp SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 394-0123.

Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ L D hp STAR SUSHI 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 725-8444. Jeffersonville joins the sushi craze with its own 72 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

source of yellowtail rolls, sashimi and nigiri, which is drawing fans for the freshness and flavor of its offerings, and its very fair price point. $$ L D SUSHI MASTER 9415 Norton Commons Blvd., 890-5157.

This traditional Japanese restaurant offers sashimi, classic sushi rolls, noodle dishes such as udon and cold soba and entrees such as teriyaki chicken, and grilled fish. A few Korean dishes such as bulgogi are on offer too. $$ L D pf TOGO SUSHI 700 Lyndon Ln., 883-0666. ToGo offers primarily drive-thru sushi-to-go, but it does have a fiveseat bar and three two-top tables inside. Owner Chet Gurun also owns Samurai Sushi & Hibachi in Middletown and is also part owner of Oishii Sushi near Bowman Field.

If sushi isn’t your thing, there are items like fried oysters, fried calamari and shrimp tempura, as well as some vegetarian options. $$ L D TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from high-quality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ L D TOMO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 4317 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-0200. This Japanese hibachi steak house offers a good show of knife skills and tableside grilling, as well as sushi. Patrons seem to admire the oversize sushi rolls, the salads with ginger dressing, and the grilled chicken and scallops. $$ L D p TSUBAKI SUSHI & BAR 13823 English Villa Dr., 2448896. A new addition to Jasmine, many people’s favorite Chinese restaurant in town. Look for both raw and cooked two-piece nigiri and three-piece Sashimi, a variety of vegetable rolls and deep fried rolls, and special rolls almost beyond counting. $$ L D p WILD GINGER SUSHI & FUSION 1700 Bardstown Rd., 384-9252. This Highlands sushi and Asian fusion spot has a sushi bar up front, and a pan-Asian menu in the back dining room. Entrees include standard Japanese entrées such as teriyuaki chicken, Japanese curry, and soba and udon noodle dishes. $$ L D hp YAMATO JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany IN, 590-1380. A lot of Japanese food preparations are on the menu at this southern Indiana restaurant, located between State Street and Green Vallley Road. Offerings include: ramen bowls and bento boxes, yaki soba and sushi rolls, and steak, chicken or seafood hibachi grilled dishes. $$ L D

CHARIM KOREAN RESTAURANT 4123 Oechsli Ave., 290-8900. “Charim” can be rendered as “the table is set.”

In this case with home-style Korean food, including nokdu jeon, a pancake with mung beans and kim chee — housemade kim chee at that. This modest St. Matthews place quickly became a hit, especially for the banchan, the assortment of sides that come with each entrée. $ L D KIM & BAB 3012 Charlestown Crossing Way, New Albany IN, 725-9844. This little Korean restaurant is getting rave notices from locals who love the mandu (dumplings), japchae (a noodle dish), galbi (short ribs) and dakkangjung (fried marinated boneless chicken in a spicy sweet and sour sauce). More familiar things like bulgogi and fried rice too. $$ L D KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ L D p LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 4569714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back

room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ L D h RICE BOWL 3114 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 5906786. Rice Bowl is another addition to the restaurant row area near the IUS campus. It serves Korean and Asian dishes. You will find clay pot bibimbap, chicken curry rice, several varieties of ramen. $$ L D SARANG 1908 Eastern Pkwy., 709-4282. The store on the Eastern Parkway side of the Schuster Building most recently was a Ce Fiori yogurt shop, but it now serves Korean food such as bibimbap, mandoo, ramen and dakkangjung. Bubble tea is back, too. $ L D

MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ L D SALA THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992, 10403 Glenmary Farm Dr., 493-3944. This entry on the growing list of Thai restaurants is gaining fans, partly because it is vegetarian- and vegan-friendly. $$ L D SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670, 12003 Shelbyville Rd, 690-8344. Owner Mahn Saing and his wife, a classically trained Thai chef, are pleasing diners in St. Matthews and Middletown. Their menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items use many ingredients from their small home garden. $$ L D f TANTHAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ L D THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ L D f THAI NOODLES 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The menu covers Thai standards like pad Thai and curries, with some interesting variations, including several duck items, such as Bangkok duck and pineapple curry duck. Noodle dishes range from flat and thin egg noodle to bean thread and rice noodle. $ L D TIME 4 THAI 2206 Frankfort Ave., 996-7899. The elegantly redone interior is matched by some unusually elegant Thai dishes, such as the volcano Cornish hen, a whole bird, marinated with Thai herbs and spicy chili sauce, which is flambéed at the table. All dishes are cooked to order, so choose your spice level. $$ L D p

Á-CHÂU RESTAURANT 5103 S. Third St., 364-4262. This Beechmont arrival (pronounced “Ah Chow”), proclaims “Vietnamese Street Food” in a banner over the front door of what long was Thornberry’s Deli. The menu includes noodles and soups, Vietnamese egg rolls, bánh mi, curry dishes, fresh coconut or sugar cane juice, sweet Thai iced tea and hot or cold Vietnamese coffee. $$ L D ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn Ave., 363-4847. Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account.

Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ L D

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 73

CAFÉ MIMOSA 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. Owner Phat Le, serving his Vietnamese, Chinese and pan-Asian dishes to happy regulars, might finally wean Louisvillians from referring to his building as the former Lentini’s. $ L D hp CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959. A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the banh mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ L D CHIK'N & MI 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 890-5731. Fried chicken meets Asian noodles in the lower Brownsboro space that has seen lots of other ethnic choices. The menu starts with fried chicken tossed in sauces such as sweet soy, hot, extra hot, and peppercorn ranch. Starters include assorted pickles, salads, fried calamari, and pork belly steam buns. Also pho and ramen dishes and shareable sides: fries, bok choy and kimchi mac and cheese. $$ Br D p EATZ VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT 974 Barret Ave., 7854550. Another newcomer to the string of shotgun houses along Barret that provide a lead-in to the Paris Pointe development. Pho and Bahn mi sandwiches, of course, but also other noodle dishes, a bento box and crispy tofu in chili sauce. $$ L D pf LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que provides the lower Highlands with a dependable, economical Vietnamese menu that includes some dishes from other Asian cuisines. $$ L D hf LEMONGRASS RESTAURANT 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 244-7110, 2956 Richland Ave., 614-7448. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ L D h NAMNAM CAFÉ 318 Wallace Ave., 891-8859. This small St. Matthews Vietnamese restaurant has gained many enthusiastic fans who flock there for the pho, the banh mi and other authentic Vietnamese dishes. $ L D f PHO BA LUU 1019 E. Main St., 384-6822. This Butchertown restaurant focuses on Vietnamese street food such as pho, the classic noodle soup, and banh mi sandwiches. The very cool repurposed space was once a welding shop; its large open spaces and high ceilings make for an elegant place to sip sweet iced coffee or munch on an Imperial roll or tuck into a rice or noodle bowl. Fast casual service at lunch; after happy hour the full bar and large patio have full service. $$ L D pf PHO CAFÉ 1704 Barstown Rd., 916-2129. Local restaurant veteran Tuan Phan, who worked at Asiatique for 18 years along with a stint at Dish on Market, is serving Vietnamese-style home cooking. There is pho, of course, the signature noodle soup, as well as other noodle and rice dishes, banh mi sandwiches and a small selection of stirfries. $$ L D h PHO PHI 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 290-3019. A Vietnamese restaurant joins the choices in Shelbyville Road Plaza, setting up shop in the former Home Run Burgers site.

Phos, of course, and Bahn mis, and rich Vietnamese coffee. $$ L D VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154. This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ L D h

BOUDREAUX’S CAJUN COOKING 1816 Shelbyville Rd. Inside the tiny Boudreaux's New Orleans Style Sno-Balls shack in Middletown, you can now find take-out only New Orleans style spicy gumbo (lunch only). Eat on the patio, or take home to reheat for supper. $ L f

COUVILLION 1318 McHenry St., 365-1813. The name of Chef Paul Skulas’s Germantown restaurant, refers to the rich Cajun-style tomato-based roux broth that is the basis of his signature catfish dish. The menu features traditional Southern flavors and cooking styles of Mississippi and Louisiana. $$$ L D pf FLAVOUR 1767 Bardstown Rd., 409-6968. This Highlands space that was Asiatique has been quickly appropriated for Flavour, which features Caribbean, Creole and Southern cuisine. The menu ranges from conch fritters and Caribbean-spiced chicken pattie to fried catfish and ribs to crawfish etouffée, jerk chicken and Trinidadian oxtail stew.

J.

GUMBO’S 8603 Citadel Way, 493-4720, 103 Quartermaster Crt., Jeffersonville IN, 282-7823, 1616 Grinstead Dr., 873-5006, 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046.

Former jockey Billy Fox has come full circle with his chain of popular quick-service Cajun restaurants — his most recent outlet is in the little house near Bardstown Rd., where it all began. Among the hearty, affordable dishes that have made J. Gumbo’s a go-to spot is the drunken chicken, still a favorite. $ B L D f

SEAFOOD LADY 105 W. Oak St., 210-9381, 3207 Fern Valley Rd., 907-5251. It began as a food truck, but owner Nichelle Thurston has expanded into two stores. The lure here is fresh fish, shrimp and crab legs brought up from the Gulf Coast, prepared with Cajun spices, and served simply and relatively cheaply. $$ L D f SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. This Cajun/Creole place in a renovated Anchorage roadhouse continues to find fans. Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ Br L D hpf STORMING CRAB 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 590-3773. Seafood boil combos are the draw here, served at market price and by the pound. Several flavors (crab house Cajun, garlic butter or plain) and spice levels to take home or dump on the paper-covered tables to eat as it should be eaten. Other seafood dishes available plus Cajun items, like gumbo and crawfish etoufée. $$$ L D TAYLOR'S CAJUN MEAT CO. 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 725-0039. A few blocks down Grant Line Rd. from I265, Taylor’s is a spic-and-span shop run by a family from Lafayette, LA. Daily plate lunches often sell out quickly. A great variety of fresh and frozen savory Cajun specialties (sausages, stuffed everything) are always available, as well as crawfish and shrimp pies, gumbo and étouffée, and special orders. This place is the real deal. $ L

CARIBBEAN CAFÉ 317 W. Woodlawn Ave., 434-7711. The diverse Woodlawn neighborhood welcomes the area’s first Haitian restaurant. The boldly-painted exterior is decorated with cool Haitian folk art; the menu offers generous portions of jerk chicken, fried red snapper, goat, and hearty sides of rice, beans and plantains. $ L D h EL SABOR DE CUBA 7200 Preston Hwy., 618-2181. The flavors of Cuba can be found here on an ambitious menu of appetizers (tamales, croquetas and tostones), pizzas (including those topped with tuna or shrimp), Cubano (and other) sandwiches, and chicken, beef, pork and seafood entrees. $ L D hpe GALAN’S MEAT MARKET & GRILLE 2300 W. Market St., 614-8514. Carlos Galan, who has made a mark with his butcher shop in Portland, has opened another enterprise, in a former bank. His family-oriented restaurant, which has a Cuban/Puerto Rican/Caribbean menu focus, also has a meat market on site. Order breakfast, lunch or dinner inside, or from the drive-through. $ B L D f HABANA BLUES TAPAS RESTAURANT 320 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 944-9760. Owner Leo Lopez has rebooted his restaurant concept in a former bank (the safe

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

is still there, behind the bar) and installed in the front of the restaurant is a recreation of the raft he built to emigrate from Castro’s Cuba when he was 18. Cuban-style tapas on the menu, also a half-dozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a few dinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arroz con pollo. Live music most nights — tango, flamenco and salsa. $$ L D pfe HAVANA BAKERY CAFÉ 5510 Fern Valley Rd., 509-3410.

This Cuban spot offers sweets and savories: tres leches cake, coquitos (coconut-caramel rolls) and flan; sandwiches or meat and fish combos (ropa vieja, albondigas, pechuga de pollo). $$ L D HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959, 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana can be found at both locations of this consistently busy Cuban restaurant. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $$ L D p f HAVANA RUMBA & TAPAS BAR 2210 Bardstown Rd., 749-4600. The Havana Rumba family brings Cuban food to the Douglass Loop, and adds a large selection of Spanish tapas as well. Fans have also spoken reverently of the mojitos and other cocktails in the stylish bar. $ L D hpfe MI SUEÑO 3425 Bardstown Rd., 709-4526, 4214 Bishop Ln., 458-1050. This honest little bodega and hot table restaurant serving Latin groceries and a variety of Cubancentric Latin dishes was, as the name translates, the owner’s dream. It was a successful dream, in that there are now two locations, both offering solid ethnic fare at affordable big-city ethnic eatery prices. $ B L D NAILA’S CARIBBEAN 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville, IN 725-0399. This little place, tucked behind Storming Crab, serves island fare like jerk wings with plantain chips, as well as Indian-inspired items like curries, and when available Trini fried whole fish. $$ L D ROOF TOP GRILL 708 Louis Coleman Jr. Dr., 785-4069, 414 W. Oak St., 618-2287. This West End Jamaican restaurant serves the native cuisine of owner Courtney Johnson. Look for jerk chicken, curry with chicken, turkey, goat and rib tips, along with Kentucky favorites like fried catfish, barbecue and beef patties. $ L D

BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. Owner Anthony Dike’s refocus of the restaurant around a bistro menu continues its popularity. $$$$ D pfe BRASSERIE PROVENCE 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 8833153. This Provençal-style brasserie serves classical and Southern French specialties, the comfort food enjoyed by owner Guy Genoud in his childhood home of Cannes, France. Dine like the French do on fish and seafood, a variety of meat and fowl, a daily "plat du jour", French cheese and charcuterie, specialty cocktails, draft beer and a large selection of French wine. $$$ L D pf

EIDERDOWN 983 Goss Ave., 290-2390. The popular Germantown restaurant has re-defined itself as a neighborhood meeting place with an imaginative menu of freshly-made German and American dishes. The menu includes a variety of house-made sausages, schnitzel, rouladen, spätzle and the most extensive German beer selection in town. $$ L D h GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North Rhine-Westphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 73

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 74

geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$ D

IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloon is as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. Serving classic Irish fare. $ Br L D pf MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, has added a second, suburban location. Both are as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ L D hpfe MORE SHENANIGAN’S 4521 Bardstown Rd., 493-3585. $ L D hpfe O'CONNELL'S IRISH PUB 5520 Fern Valley Rd., 9640040. If you are in the mood for an Irish Car Bomb, this is the place. Guinness, too, karaoke nights and a satisfying selection of bar food. $ L D hpe O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. The O’Shea family has been operating an Irish pub since the early 1900s. Today they have one of the most popular pubs on the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor. Diners of all ages like its burgers, flat breads, sandwiches and fish and chips. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ L D hpfe PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This downtown Irish bar was one of the first to open in the Whiskey Row complex. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. $$ L D hpfe SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 454-3919.

Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ L D hpfe THE CELTIC PIG 217 E. Main St., 290-4846. Another food truck has found a home, this one in the Ice House downtown. Owners Sam Bracken and Melissa Ingram offer Celtic favorites with a barbecue and Southern comfort twist. Look for shepherd’s pie and fish and chips, two styles of haggis (traditional and hillbilly), as well as pulled pork and brisket and grilled cheese. $$ L D hp

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ L D AMICI´ 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Satisfying, traditional Tuscan dishes are served in this interesting Old Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic (and pet-friendly) patio on a lovely summer evening. The joke and pun-filled menu, updated by new owner Don Reinhardt, is fun to read, and his dishes have been winning raves. $$ L D pf ANGIO’S IIAN RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 451-5454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $$ L D p AT THE ITALIAN TABLE 2359 Frankfort Ave., 883-0211.

Chef Gina Stipo has a real osteria in her Crescent Hill house, serving dinners Wednesday through Saturday at two communal dining tables, imported from her former digs in Italy. Book now for later in the spring – both her 74 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

dinners and Tuesday night hands-on cooking classes fill up fast. $$$ D BAR VETTI 800 S. Fourth St., 883-3331. Ryan Rogers (Feast BBQ, Royals Hot Chicken) and Executive Chef Andrew McCabe have made bar Vetti, in the renovated 800 Building (now 800 City Club Apartments), a must-try spot for their classic Italian cooking using local seasonally available produce and simple preparations. $$ B L D hpf BELLA ROMA AUTHENTIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT 134 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9495. Bella Roma adds classic Italian-American choices in a pleasant environment in the midst of New Albany’s growing restaurant row. $$$ L D f BISTRO 42 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 632-2552. Another entry in the dining choices at Prospect Village shopping center. This little family-run place, serving pasta, sandwiches and Italian and American dishes is proud of its 5-cheese 3-meat Bistro lasagna and their 3-hour honeybaked ham, offered at an attractive price. $$ L D hpfe BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-2426.

Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family Italian-American restaurants of the 1950s. $$ L D hp CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$$ L D hpf CIAO 1201 Payne St., 690-3532. A crisp modern dining space with a menu that is a blend of familiar ItalianAmerican family cuisine and Northern Italian dishes.

Creative takes on Italian regional cuisine include salmon saltimbocca, roast chicken with lemon risotto and eggplant rollini. Unusual pizzas are topped with mushroom and truffle, shrimp scampi and butternut squash. Flavors of monkey bread, a popular appetizer, vary daily. $$ L D hpf COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777. Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon.

But unlike other neighborhood saloons, this houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $$ L D p DIFABIO’S CASAPELA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. Reminiscent of a menu that harks back to the red-checked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccata, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ D f GRASSA GRAMMA 2210 Holiday Manor Ctr., 333-9595.

Kevin Grangier’s newest dining idea is his take on familiar Italian food, just like your robust Italian grandmother made, only better. There’s lasagne, of course, and spaghetti and meatballs, ravioli and gnocchi and several other pastas, but prime beef filet with Gorgonzola sauce, veal scallopini, whole roasted branzino, and pizza, too. $$$$ Br L D p MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr. 3949797. Now locally owned, Martini’s continues to serve hearty, well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas, a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria. An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ Br L D hpf MERCATO ITALIANO 10640 Meeting St., 690-3200. This Italian market and upscale casual restaurant in Norton Commons is under new ownership. Chef/owner Peter Pagano prepares lunch, brunch and dinner. Customers can buy cheeses, bread, charcuterie, sauces, packaged pastas and prepared meals for take-out in the market section. $$ Br L D p

MILANTONI ITALIAN RESTAURANT 1600 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 742-8210. This East End restaurant serves up all you would want in a casual Italian eatery: mozzarella sticks and calamari; subs and Philly cheesesteaks; pizzas and calzones; and a dozen or so different pastas. $$ L D p OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm.

Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ L D hp THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 339-7190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer Loop, 9682978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry.

Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ L D hp PALATUCCI'S ITALIAN AMERICAN RISTORANTE 204 S. Spring St., 618-1049. This upscale Italian restaurant replaces Gary’s on Spring. The name honors Executive Chef Richard Britney’s distant cousin, Giovanni Palatucci, an Italian police officer who was a WWII hero. The classical Italian menu features house-made pastas, and the ambiance encourages a sense of togetherness and belonging, according to Britney. $$$ L D pfe PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 5840567. Offices for blocks around empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $$ L D p PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992. Start with fried artichokes, a Roman specialty. Opt for the grilled Romaine salad, then the gnocchi with spicy sausage. The grilled veal chop is a fine choice, and finish with tiramisu. $$$ L D hpfe ROC RESTAURANT 1327 Bardstown Rd., 459-7878. New York City chef/restaurateur Rocco Cadolini has transformed a Highlands building into an elegant upscale restaurant, with a handsome pergola in the front garden. The first floor has a large bar and casual dining, and upstairs sees a more formal white tablecloth space with several private dining rooms. Here you will find authentic Italian food, served with flair. Now open for lunch and the “disco brunches” are becoming legendary. $$$ Br L D hpf ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ L D hp SARINO 1030 Goss Ave., 822-3777. Owners and brothers, Carmelo and Michael Gabriele, the next generation of the noted Gabriele family (owners of the highly revered Vincenzo’s), have taken over the short-lived Goss Ave. Pub space for their casual, authentic Italian restaurant that emphasizes fresh pasta and Neapolitan pizza, something Germantown had been lacking. The menu also features Sicilian street fare, Italian cheeses paired with charcuterie, and traditional entrees. $$ D hp SILVIO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 104 Fairfax Ave., 8836369. Owned by one of the Melillo family, fondly remembered for their NuLu retaurant before NuLu became popular, this St. Matthews spot evokes the classic New Jersey style Italian restaurants of the “Big Night” era: baked pasta dishes, cheese-stuffed rice balls, pasta fagiole, and eggplant Parmesan. $$ L D hp SPAGHETTI SHOP 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-5400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ L D

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:04 PM Page 75

STEVE O'S ITALIAN KITCHEN 2230 Frankfort Ave., 8223370. This family-oriented pizza pub and restaurant has been serving traditional Italian dishes like pizza, lasagna and chicken parmesan, subs and wings for a dozen years or so in La Grange and has now taken over the former Clifton Pizza Co. site for its second location. $$ L D pe TOWN 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. The former Southern Indiana branch of the Come Back Inn has a new identity and a menu still focused on pasta dishes and pizzas with several new salads, sandwiches and a revamped appetizer selection. Other entrees include items like chicken piccata and Greek lamb pasta. $$ L D p TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 3630308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, redsauced Italian-American fare at a price that’s right. $$ L D p VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. Chef and coowner Josh Moore has revised his menu after an inspirational tour of Italy, and brings in fantastic whole fish for seafood specials on Fridays. His pasta extruder allows him to do things like squid ink fettuccine. Volare continues to be a top spot for suave Italian dining. Moore supplies his kitchen with vegetables he raises himself on his Taylorsville farm. $$ B Br L D hpf

MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojito quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile.

Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $$ L D hpf

BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-8892.

With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ L D CHAMLING KITCHEN & BAR 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2100.

Another entrepreneurial immigrant family has opened Louisvillians’ taste buds to more ethnic possibilities. In the former Empress of China space, the Rai family serves standard Chinese hot table dishes, but also adds Nepalese and Indian fare. $ L D p CLAY OVEN INDIAN RESTAURANT 12567 Shelbyville Rd., 254-4363. Northern Indian cuisine with a focus on the clay oven specialties of the region, including some Nepalese dishes, like goat curry and chicken mo-mo (a kind of chicken and dumplings dish). Also selections of lamb dishes and, of course, a large vegetarian menu. $$ L D DAKSHIN SOUTH INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. This Indian restaurant has won many fans with its aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ B L D p HIMALAYAN RESTAURANT 1578 Bardstown Rd., 7081477. Owner Teknath Niraula is Nepalese, but the menu is largely focused on northern Indian cuisine. There are samosas and pakoras, but also momo dumplings, various tandooris, saag, vindaloos and curries, and many wellspiced vegetarian dishes. $$ L D phf KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1277 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ L D hf

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 75

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:05 PM Page 76

KATHMANDU KITCHEN AND BAR 3825 Bardstown Rd., 276-1527. Named for the capital city of Nepal, this crisp, modern place in Buechel serves Nepalese food (a sort-of fusion of Chinese and Indian cuisines). Expect dishes such as pakoras, biruanis and even chow mein, but also Nepali items such as pork sakuwo (spiced pork chunks cooked on skewers), fried mo-mo (a kind of dumpling with dipping sauce) and khasikomaasu ra bhata, an aromatic stew with curried accents. $$ L D hp LOUISVILLE CAFÉ INDIA 12412 Shelbyville Rd., 2536777. Meat dishes are an afterthought at this mostly vegetarian restaurant serving dishes from both North and South India, which also has a substantial selection of vegan dishes. $ L D SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants. With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ L D SHREEJI INDIAN VEGETARIAN STREET FOOD 1986 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 890-4000. The extensive, completely vegetarian menu of this East End restaurant looks to the street food of India for dishes not often seen here: a variety of chaats, masala pav, hakka, dosa and even an aloo mutter sandwich, filled with a blend of potato, peas and a balance of savory spices. $$ L D h TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ L D f TANDOORI FUSION 4600 Chamberlain Ln., 255-2590.

The former Zeggz's location has been quickly taken over by entrepreneur Purna Veer, who uses Indian vegetables grown on his Oldham County farm. Veer promises that his dishes will not be “watered down,” so be ready for uncommon spice levels. $$ B L D pf TIKKA HOUSE 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 749-4535. Tikka House has garnered positive notice for both its lunch buffet and a la carte dinner service. Diners have praised dishes such as lamb masala with roasted coconut, Tandoori wings, fish pakora, paneer chili, several daal preparations and saag paneer. $$ L D pf

CASPIAN GRILL PERSIAN BISTRO 2716 Frankfort Ave., 290-6050. Middle Eastern food of an above-average quality. Kabobs and hummus, of course, but also shirazi salad with tomatoes, cucumbers and onions in a lemony dressing, and chicken stew with pomegranate and walnuts. $LD

SAM’S GYRO 3123 S. Second St., 709-4292. This hummus and kebab joint, with its tasty food and friendly service, has moved out to the South End. The menu features everything you would expect from a typical Eastern Mediterranean menu: falafel, tabouli, gyros, baklava and spanakopita. $ L D h

EAT A PITA 2286 Bardstown Rd., 473-7482. Enjoy Mediterranean-Middle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ L D

SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 426-9954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232, 4614 Chamberlain Ln., 919-9014, 1565 Bardstown Rd., 749-0385. From a tiny neighborhood storefront, Shiraz quickly grew out of its original location and expanded into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, such as char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavash. $ L D f

FALAFEL OASIS 226 W. Broadway, 742-2030. The owner of Superior Market and Deli a few doors away has also opened this Middle Eastern restaurant, serving gyros, falafel, and other regional fare. $ L D THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 454-4407.

This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the BardstownBaxter entertainment strip. Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ L D hf GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. For those in the know, the Grape Leaf has long been a destination spot, well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery nich in both ambiance and quality of food. Prices remain affordable; the food and mood justify a special trip. $$ L D f JERUSALEM KITCHEN 4413 Saint Rita Dr., 614-6465.

Little Jerusalem Café has moved from the Iroquois Manor area and moderately rebranded itself. You can still find a range of Mediterranean dishes here, shawarma and fattoush, gyros and hummus and so on. $ L D LITTLE GREEK FRESH GRILL 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 6908348. This Arkansas-based chain is now serving dolmades and spanikopita, pita sandwiches and wraps, a variety of skewers and mousaka and pastitsio. $$ L D p MAIRA MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 1907 S. Fourth St., 963-5999. Owners of the popular Safier restaurant in Theater Square have opened this U of L location, serving Middle Eastern food such as shawarma, kebab, falafel, hummus, lentil soup and baklava. $ L D f MASALA GRILL 528 S. Fifth St., 562-0202. $ L MIRAGE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 4100 Preston Hwy., 363-7788. Preston Highway’s international restaurant row is enriched by this Middle Eastern eatery, run by the owners of the now-defunct Little Jerusalem.

Gyros, hummus, falafel — what one would expect, but done with attention to details and a flair for flavor. $$ L D f

4 SEASONS RESTAURANT 8402 Hudson Ln., 749-9969.

Fern Creek boasts the first Bulgarian restaurant in town.

The “Mediterranean” cuisine here ranges from the familiar (gyros and kebabs) to Bulgarian specialties kebapche (grilled meat), banitsa (stuffed bread) and shopska salad with tomatoes, cukes and salty cheese. $$ L D pf

PASHA'S MEDITERRANEAN 3904 Bardstown Rd., 4094532. You can find the usual Mediterranean fare here – falafel, baba ghanouj – but with influences of Jordanian recipes such as Kalaya, ground lamb cooked in tomatoes, and char-grilled lamb liver. Fans cite the value-sized portions. $$ L D hfe

AL HAMRA HALAL BUFFET 1250 Bardstown Rd., 3844801. The first (that we know of) halal buffet restaurant has taken over the Asian Buffet at Mid City Mall. Over 50 choices will be on the buffet line, half cold (salads and other mezze) and half hot items. Familiar Near-Eastern foods such as kebabs, kofta and gyros will be available, but also dishes from other Muslim lands: samosas, masalas and lamb shank stew. $$ L D

PITA PIT 434 W. Jefferson St., 450-6077. Pita Pit, an international sandwich chain, offers the expected falafel and gyros, but customers can also choose club sandwiches, chicken Caesars and Philly cheesesteak pitas, salads and breakfast pitas. It’s located in the long-empty former J. Gumbo’s spot, at the corner of S. Fifth and Jefferson Streets. $ L D

ALWATAN RESTAURANT 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406.

Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ L D

SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. An unassuming location downtown, but a most pleasant space inside, with food and service that continues to please regulars and delight visitors. The popular menu items continue to be rack of lamb, roasted duck fesenjoon, salmon and kebabs. $$$ L D pf

ALADDIN’S MEDITERRANEAN 37 Bank St., New Albany IN, 489-7969. After bringing a higher level of Middle Eastern cuisine to the still-growing dining scene in New Albany, Aladdin’s has moved to the cool new Underground Station complex. You will still find wellcrafted gyros, chicken shawarma, tabbouleh and hummus in their sleek new environs. Finish your meal with thick Turkish coffee. $ L D h

76 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 5851125. You can get standard American fare at this downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich? $ L D f

TAZIKI’S MEDITERRANEAN CAFÉ 13317 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6222, 106 Fairfax Ave., 212-5373. At these Alabama-based chain outlets the food is made fresh daily with vegan and gluten-free choices. The menu includes grilled chicken roll-ups, a grilled tilapia sandwich with dill-caper sauce, gyros, a grilled vegetable and rice plate, roasted potatoes and baklava, along with beer and wine. $$ L D pf YAFA CAFÉ 612 S. Fifth St., 561-0222. This well-respected Middle Eastern lunch spot had gained a fanbase for its hummus, among other dishes, before it succumbed to the expansion of the Kindred development. Now it has reopened in a prime downtown restaurant lunch space that has seen a number of prior occupants. $$ L D hf ZOE’S KITCHEN 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963, 3723 Lexington Rd., 409-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now has two Louisville locations. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, roll-ups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ L D

ALCHEMY RESTAURANT 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 619-4778. Venezuelan cuisine and Latin fusion.

Arepas, fajitas and tacos. But patacones (plantain sandwiches) too. $$ L D f CARALI'S ROTISSERIE CHICKEN 9148 Taylorsville Rd., 618-0699, 211 S. Fifth St., 654-7131. You will find Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken here and other South American dishes: lomo (grilled marinated steak), chaufa rice and various salads and side dishes (such as stuffed avocado). Sandwiches as well as full dinners, and take away half and full roasted chickens. $ L D p CUBA Y MAS 5700 Outer Loop, 290-1672. Folks living in Okolona and Highview now have a nearby source of authentic Cuban dishes, such as the pargo frito (whole fried snapper) and the appetizer tamal cubano (the Cuban version of tamales). There’s a great selection of Latin soft drinks and tropical juices; try one of the tropical fruit "milkshakes." $$ L D p EL RINCONCITO 4806 Bardstown Rd., 742-9537. This Peruvian restaurant adds to the ethnic choices in Buechel.

The happy chicken logo touts the charcoal-grilled chicken, but the menu includes salchipapa (sausage and potatoes), lomo saltado (a beef stew), plantains and Peruvian green rice. $ L D LA GUANAQUITA 4231 Taylor Blvd., 822-1343. This South End spot serves the dishes of Guatemala and Honduras: pupusas and baleadas and pescado frito (fried fish), served whole, head and tail on, garnished with lime wedges and avocado slices. $$ L D h SABOR LATINO 1273 S. Brook St., 276-4954. A welcome addition to Old Louisville is this tiny restaurant serving a “Latin Culinary Mix,” as a sign advertises. The menu offers Cuban sandwiches, patatas bravas, burritos, quesadillas, carne asada, ropa vieja and pollo de vacaciones – a chicken stew. $$ L D f

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:05 PM Page 77

YUMMY POLLO 4222 Bishop Ln., 618-1400. You can get Peruvian-style charcoal roasted chicken here by the piece, half or whole bird. American-style side dishes include fried or mashed potatoes, rice, steamed vegetables, slaw and pasta salad. $ L

BANDIDO TAQUERIA MEXICANA 423 University Blvd., 996-7788, 905 E. Liberty St., 384-2527. These Mexican places, the first in a strip mall near U of L, the second next to Falls City Brewing in NuLu, serve California-style tacos, quesadillas, burritos, nachos and burrito bowls, with a choice of four salsas at the condiment bar. $$ L D CAFÉ AROMA 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 618-3434. This little shop along the lower Brownsboro food corridor touts “a world of flavor with a Mexican flair.” It’s mostly Mexican and really mostly good, according to our friends in the neighborhood. Affordable, casual and filling. $ L D CANCÚN 808 Lyndon Ln., 885-2318. Another Mexican restaurant has taken over the Lyndon-area space that recently was Hay Chi Wa Waa. The extensive menu offers familiar dishes, combination platers, and steak and seafood specialties like carne bandito and tostados de ceviche. $$ L D pf CASA FIESTA 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 423-4604. This Mexican restaurant in the Summit area has impressed diners with its clean, modern ambience and its generous portions for reasonable prices. $ L D pf CHILAKILES OAXACAN BREAKFAST 5600 National Tpk., 632-2000. This family-run spot serves a variety of Mexican dishes from breakfast and brunch through dinner.

Some of the Oaxacan specialities are not commonly seen locally, such as tortilla entomotadas, egg and black-bean enfrijoladas or pollo rostizado with a spicy guajillo pepper sauce. $$ B Br L D pf CHIPOTLE MEXICAN GRILL 315 S. Fourth St., 584-8606, 10333 Westport Rd., 526-5170, 1075 Bardstown Rd., 452-8990, 13303 Shelbyville Rd., 244-7173, 420 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 425-3017. Now with five Louisville locations, this increasingly popular Tex-Mex chain, with an emphasis on cooking with humanely-raised meat products, seems to have struck a chord with consumers. $ LDf COCONUT BEACH TACOS & CERVEZA 2787 S. Floyd St., 634-2843. The menu here is anchored by bargainpriced tacos created to lure in U of L students from nearby (the place is across from Papa John’s Cardinal Stadium), as well as burritos, empanadas and tortas. Come the weekend, the huge space is converted into a bar and dance club. $ L D hpf CON HUEVOS 2339 Frankfort Ave., 384-3027, 4938 US42, 384-3744. This popular Mexican breakfast and lunch spot now has a suburban location, too. Expect huevos rancheros, chilaquiles, breakfast-style enchiladas (with eggs, of course), frijoladas, churros, and molletes. Tortas and tacos at lunch as well. $ B Br L EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1909 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 266-9605. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ L D p EL MARIACHI 9901 La Grange Rd., 413-5770. Fans of this Mexican restaurant, situated between a bakery and an ethnic grocery, find much to rave about: tacos and burritos made with the bakery’s fresh tortillas, funky authentic fillings and quick, friendly service. $ B L D p EL MOLCAJETE 8106 Preston Hwy., 742-3485, 2932 S. Fourth St., 638-0300. You can get gringo-style tacos (with shredded lettuce, cheese & sour cream) at this south-end Mexican joint. But if you come here, why not eat like a native? Lash your pork, beef and chicken tacos with freshsqueezed lime juice and a heap of sliced radishes. Want to

get truly authentic? Step up to beef tongue (lengua), intestine (tripas) or brain (sesos). $$ L D hp

FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $ L D p

EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ L D pf

FOKO 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market). Chef Paco Garcia fuses his two favorite cuisines, Mexican and Southern. The result is southern vegetable tamale with collard greens and poblano pesto, and chicken pibil with grits, among others. $$ f

EL NOPAL (22 Locations) These locally-owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain, winning popularity on the basis of delicious and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $ L D pf EL RIO GRANDE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 632-2403. A Mexican restaurant has taken over the expansive space that once was Limestone. Patrons report good experiences, with both the food and the service. $$ L D hp EL SINALOA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 111 W. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-6489. A small but sincere Mexican restaurant in downtown New Albany. Some usual dishes on the menu – burritos, quesadillas, tacos and tortas – but also things like mulitas (think quesadillas crossed with tostadas) and unusual taco fillings like the Mar y Tierra with shrimp and grilled steak. $ L D EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 2850109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ B L D p EL TACO LOCO 5622 Preston Hwy., 225-7229. This unpretentious Mexican restaurant tries to be as authentic as it can, and has persuaded many fans with its efforts.

Inexpensive, freshly made tacos, quesadillas and other familiar Mexican dishes, served in value sizes. $ L D h EL TACO LUCHADOR 938 Baxter Ave., 583-0440, 112 Meridian Ave., 709-5154, 500 W. Jefferson St., 409-9254, 9204 Taylorsville Rd., 708-1675, 5205 New Cut Rd. (Colonial Gardens), 384-8457. With the opening of the Colonial Gardens site and a store in J’town, Olé Restaurant Group now has five taquerias that all have diners lined up out the door. Familiar taco names — carnitas, carne asada — get clever riffs in the kitchen. Call it elevated Mexican street food. And do try the fantastic tortas. $ L D h f EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 326-9373. El Tarasco’s take on Mexican food appeals both to the area’s growing Latino population and Anglos who want to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ L D p EL TORAZO 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7272. A family-oriented Mexican restaurant offers the expected menu items, as well as some more sophisticated dishes, such as 7 mares sopa, a soup with shrimp, scallops and octopus; banderillas, a colorful beef brochette; and chuleta sabrosa, a Durango-style grilled steak. $$ L D pf EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 4893839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ L D pf EL VAQUERO 5414 Bardstown Rd., 409-7819. This Ohiobased chain offers a wide range of familiar Mexican dishes for lunch and dinner with a few specialties like Molcajete Ranchero (grilled shrimp, sirloin steak, chicken and Mexican sausage) and Cochinita Pibil (marinated baked pork Yucatan style). $ L D p FIESTA MEXICANA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ L D hp FIESTA TIME AMIGOS 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444, 135 S. English Station Rd., 254-7755. These traditional Mexican restaurant’s locations serve the expected things, like fajitas and burritos. But there is also an extensive grill menu, with items such as steak tampiqueño (rib-eye steak with ranchero sauce), Chile Colorado and Los Amigos cheese steak. $ L D pf

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

GUACA MOLE 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 365-4823. When Fernando Martinez returned to Louisville, he started his remarkable new restaurant blitz with this East End “creative Mexican” restaurant. As the name emphasizes, the menu explores different moles, and the creativity comes with modern twists on classic Mexican dishes. Fans quickly warmed to the food and the up-to-the-minute cocktail program designed by Martinez’s wife Christina. $$ Br L D pe GUSTAVO’S 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 434-7266. This spot offers “bold Mexican flavors.” Everything you would expect — fajitas, burritos, tacos — but also vegetarian options, house specialties like enchiladas verdes, chimichangas, shrimp tacos and pollo feliz (grilled chicken with chorizo and pineapple). $$ L D pf ISRAEL’S DELICIAS DE MEXICO GOURMET 1515 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9139. Israel Landon introduced Kentuckiana to his Mexican home-style cooking at La Rosita a few years ago. Now he is back at his original location serving street tacos and Mayan quesadillas. Weekly specials highlight cuisine from various regions of Mexico, including seafood dishes and new desserts. $ L D f KENTUCKY TACO COMPANY 502 Warnock St., 3653349. Once just a food truck, KTC now has a stable base — just a takeout window but with plenty of fans of their Kentucky style tacos: tortillas topped with fried chicken and beer cheese, sloppy joe, braised pork and a vegan style using cauliflower in BBQ sauce. Chimichangas and empanadas, too. $$ L D hf LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eatery that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity.

Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ L D h LA BONITA TIENDA MEXICANA 1999 Brownsboro Rd., 618-0207. This Clifton spot is both a tienda (a sort of Mexican deli) and taqueria, with a small, bright dining space with tables and counter seating looking out onto Brownsboro Road. There you can get tacos, gorditas, sopes, nachos, enchiladas and chilaquiles. $$ L D LA CATRINA MEXICAN KITCHEN 202 E. Elm St., New Albany IN, 725-8264. The owners of Señor Iguanas restaurants have opened this Mexican party food and street food restaurant in the building that Dragon King’s Daughter moved out of. Look for naked and dressed tacos, soups, salads and shareable dishes and seasonal menu updates. $$ L D hpf LA CHAPINLANDIA 1209 McCawley Rd., 384-7075. If those tiny hole-in-the-wall places are the best for real Mexican food, this little South End place will satisfy Okolona’s need for tacos and burritos. $ L D p LA HACIENDA GUADALAJARA 4132 Outer Loop, 3846427. $$ B L D LA LUPITA 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-0083.

Tucked away on the back side of a strip mall, this is a new spot for authentic Mexican food. The usual stuff but also panbazos, tlacoyos, tlayudas and aguachile, all explained and illustrated on the menu. $$ L D hpf LA POPULAR 2521 Seventh St Rd., 636-3688.$LDp LA RIVIERA MAYA 8104 National Turnpike, 361-3566.

This South End Mexican restaurant is popular with local Latinos, which is always a good sign. Look for gorditas and carne asada, as well as familiar fare like enchiladas. www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 77

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:05 PM Page 78

Word is that the horchata is rich and spiced just right. $LDp LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 8730 Westport Rd., 618-4588, 5059 Preston Hwy., 618-2883. For those who crave genuine Mexican tacos, you want them convenient when the urge to scarf one down strikes. These little places will certainly satisfy those cravings. $ L D LA SIERRA RESTAURANT AND TAQUERIA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ LA SUERTE 2116 Bardstown Rd., 883-1000. Owner Chris Seckman has transformed his Douglass Loop North End Café site into a Latin restaurant. Partner and Executive Chef Adrian Jimarez Neri offer dishes inspired by his mother and grandmother. The dinner menu includes lamb chop barbacoa (a house specialty), pollo tostadas, shrimp a la parilla, pork posole and shrimp a la diabla. Brunch will offer molletes, migas, and jalapeño biscuits with chorizo gravy. $$$ Br D hpf LA TORTA LOCA 5213 Preston Hwy., 966-3254. This simple, strip mall eatery has been around long enough to gain dedicated fans of their well-seasoned and fairly spicy versions of familiar Mexican dishes. Some of those fans recommend the agua de Jamaica (hibiscus).

LA TROPICANA 5215 Preston Hwy., 964-5957. This Latino grocery store has been selling a full range of fruits, vegetables, meats and grocery items for a while. Now there is a steam-table buffet with a wide range of lunch choices.

It’s mostly take-away, but there’s also limited outdoor and indoor seating. $$ B L D f LAS AMERICAS MEXICAN RESTAURANT 3719 Klondike Ln., 365-2710. This Klondike-area ethnic place is a small Mexican market as well as a restaurant. You will find familiar items like flautas and burritos but also a few specials like mojarra frita (a whole fried fish). $$ L D hp LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small, thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz now also have a sit-down s torefront just down the street. $ D hf LAS MARGARITAS MEXICAN CUISINE 12220 Shelbyville Rd., 963-5503. This Middletown Mexican restaurant aims a little higher than many of its peers. You will find the familiar (tacos, fajitas) and the slightly different – caldo de pollo (Mexican chicken soup), mole poblano and salmon al ajillo (garlic salmon). $$ L D pe LONGBOARD'S TACO & TIKI 302 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 924-7510. Ian Hall’s newest restaurant joins his Exchange Pub + Kitchen and Brooklyn and the Butcher in the continuing restaurant efflorescence across the river. A fast-casual concept, Longboard’s serves “chef-inspired” tacos and “tiki-influenced” cocktails in as cool a California beach vibe as can be conjured up in New Albany. Choose from 10 styles of tacos, poke bowls with rice, seafood ceviches, salads, salsas and guacamoles. $$ L D h pf LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Genuine Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a growing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender offerings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ L D pf LUNA'S MEXICAN ROTISSERIE 5213 Preston Hwy., 9628898. The owners came from Puebla, Mexico, but made a stop in Los Angeles before moving to Louisville and starting Luna’s Rotisserie. Their specialty is slow-cooked rotisserie chicken from the coast of Veracruz. There’s plenty more on the board, such as tamales, quesadillas and menudo. On Saturdays & Sundays, pozole and cabo de camaron are added. $$ L D h 78 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

MANGO’S BAR & GRILL 4632 Hendrik Dr., 671-5291, 6201 Dutchmans Ln., 749-6651. The 3 local outlets of this chain of Mexican-American restaurants serve a Latin lunch buffet seven days a week as well as a full dinner menu. You will find burritos, tacos and tamales, but also several steak dishes and Mexican-style desserts. $$ L D MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán arguably kicked off the restaurant renaissance along East Market Street, in the area now known as NuLu. His stylish bistro serves distinctive cuisine from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula. $$ L D MEXA TACOS 3701 Lexington Rd., 290-1334, 305 W. Market St., 822-3232. This fast-casual restaurant, now with a second location downtown, features a list of signature steak tacos customizable with house-made salsas, guacamole, peppers and other toppings, such as the special house queso made with poblano peppers. Owner Lorena Casas-Ostos is a steak taco purist, but she offers fish, shrimp and pork pastor too. $$ L D p MEXICO CITY TAQUERIA & RESTAURANT 3826 Hamburg Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 283-1072. This bright little Mexican place in a Jeffersonville strip mall offers the usual, and on weekends adds traditional Mexican soups like caldos de camarones, menudo and pozole. $ L D h MI CASITA PARRILLA MEXICANA 520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666, 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 890-3315.

Enthusiastic fans of the restaurant formerly known as Mi Cocina will find the same quick and efficient lunch service and dishes executed with skill at both locations, under the new name change. The margaritas at Happy Hour are notable, and the East End location has added Sunday hours. $$ L D hpf MI TIERRA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 742-9142, 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 384-3101. These two clean, well-lighted places in the East End serve up familiar Mexican food – fajitas, tacos, carne asada – in a friendly, efficient atmosphere that is drawing raves from its local fans. $ L D hpf MIGO 2222 Dundee Rd., 882-3279. Tacos, imaginatively conceived by Adam Burress and Chase Mucerino are the focus of this popular Highlands restaurant. The ambiance is laid-back casual, and the flavor influences come from Brazil, Argentina and even Korea. Co-owner and bar manager Gerald Dickerson has worked up a notable bar and cocktail program as well. $$ D hpfe NEW WAVE BURRITOS 3311 Preston Hwy., 963-2727.

The late-night burrito delivery service that has been operating out of borrowed kitchen spaces since late 2014 has moved into its own space at the former Grind Burger location. In addition to their five signature burritos new items include tacos, tortas and chicharrones. $$ D h

competitors on variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ L D f RAMIRO’S CANTINA 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333.

Ramiro Gandara’s Mexican restaurant in the heart of Crescent Hill’s restaurant row has his mom, Tina Ruton Escajeda, in control in the kitchen. Together they deliver some unique menu items, such as enchiladas verdes, lobster quesadilla, guacamole burger, and shrimp fajitas.

And don’t forget Tina’s specialty: scratch-made tamales.

Vegetarian choices too, and a full bar. $ L D hpf RAMIRO’S CANTINA EXPRESS 253 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 924-7770. Long-time restaurateur Ramiro Gandara’s second restaurant, a quick-casual version of his Frankfort Ave. spot, is now serving in Jeffersonville. Order at the counter, grab and go, or sit down and enjoy. Ramiro features his favorites: burritos, chicken bowls, nachos, tortas and tacos. A full bar, too. $ L D pf SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ LD SEÑOR IGUANA’S (5 locations) This expanding local chain is going upscale, with re-designed crisp modern decor, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casual, comfortable modern atmosphere. $ L D hpfe SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Rd., 459-7776. Founded by Saul Garcia down on Main St.’s museum row, his restaurant has an extensive menu that satisfies those who want standard fare like tacos, fajitas and burritos, and also offers more sophisticated fare like salmon and shrimp, steak and several Mexican chicken preparations. $ L D hpf TACO CHOZA 3922 Westport Rd., 409-5080. In the heart of St. Matthews, this locally-owned taqueria also makes burritos and quesadillas, pours craft beers, and offers daily margarita specials. $ L D hpf TACO CITY LOUISVILLE 1283 Bardstown Rd., 409-9454.

Tucked in between the Time & Space bar and the Joy Luck restaurant, this new Mexican place — run by three Mexico natives — serves tacos on homemade corn tortillas, tortas, salads and burritos, using recipes straight from Mexico like the mole sauce by the owner’s grandma. $ L D f TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year Taco Bell was born in Southern California, the Taco Tico chain had been gone locally for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ L D TAQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449.

The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront. This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ L D

NOCHE MEXICAN BBQ 1838 Bardstown Rd., 467-8015.

Inside a de-commissioned Lutheran Church, illuminated by the large stained glass windows in the sanctuary/dining room, you can find authentic Tex-Mex barbecue. Look for brisket and pulled pork smoked with Noche’s special spice blend, fajitas, flautas, green chili macaroni and cheese and grilled Mexican street corn. $$ D h pf

VICTORIA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2918 Hikes Ln., 709-5178. $ L D

OLE FRIJOLE 5612 Bardstown Rd., 822-3388. After a bit of a hike out Bardstown Rd., you will find oversized margaritas, well-priced, nicely made familiar Mexican food, and a welcoming atmosphere. The customize-yourguacamole bar is a popular feature. $$ L D p

YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs IN, 9030313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana restaurant that offers standard Mexican cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ L D hp

PIÑA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food have another place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $ L D p PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Church Rd., 239-4646. $$ L D p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (17 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its

CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Ct., 327-3033, 1440 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-2489. The Austin, Texas “unchain,” has two area locations, offering a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and Tex-Mex food at reasonable prices. $$ L D hpf

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:05 PM Page 79

MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 893-6637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fast-food MexicanAmerican than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ L D SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 365-1424. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Now with two locations, in St. Matthews and Middletown. $ L D f TUMBLEWEED TEX MEX GRILL & MARGARITA BAR (8 locations). Starting as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany, Tumbleweed grew to become an area favorite serving bold, southwest-inspired food such as burritos, spicy chile con queso, mesquite-grilled steaks, fish and chicken. The Margarita Bar offers two dozen tequila varieties and dozens of sweet and tangy margarita combinations. $ L D hp

410 BAKERY 140 E. Main St., New Albany, IN 946-9410.

Owner and baker Emily Butts attended the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., and at her artisan bakery in downtown New Albany, she creates breads (with special items on Saturdays), high-end pastries (which change daily), coffee and espresso drinks, sandwiches for lunch and macarons. $ B L ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665, 133 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 949-2334. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of one of

these cozy Southern Indiana spots, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ANNIE MAY’S SWEETS CAFÉ 3110 Frankfort Ave., 3842667. The only gluten and nut-free bakery in the state caters to customers with dietary issues such as celiac disease and allergies. Cookies, brownies, cakes, pies, wedding cakes all made without wheat, dairy, eggs, soy or tree nuts. Arrive early, before the vegan and allergen-free oatmeal cream pie cookies sell out. $ THE ARCTIC SCOOP 841 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4096602. Flash-freezing by liquid nitrogen produces super smooth and creamy ice cream, the owners of this family run shop assert. Choose your flavor combinations, and watch it all come together in front of your eyes. $ h ART EATABLES 631 S. Fourth St., 589-0210, 819 W. Main St. This chocolatier focuses on bourbon-infused and bourbonthemed candies and chocolate sold by the order or in shops featuring other bourbon-centric gifts. The small-batch bourbon truffle takes the bourbon ball to a new level. $ BOUDREAUX’S NEW ORLEANS STYLE SNO-BALLS 11816 Shelbyville Rd., This little family run shop offers the garishly colored shaved ice treat with all sorts of syrup flavors and toppings. $ f BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $B CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 1201 Story Ave., 5612940, 601 S. Fourth St., 294-3496. Erika ChavezGraziano still makes her chocolate confections at her artsy shop in the Butchertown Market building on Story Ave., but now has a large, elegant downtown space in the Hilton Garden Inn building. $ CLIFTON DONUTS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 749-6896. A family from Thailand produces very fresh donuts of all

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

sorts daily to an appreciative crowd from the Clifton corridor. Fans favorably compare the offerings here to those at the chains, lauding freshness of product and friendliness of service. $ B COLD STONE CREAMERY 1013 Jefferson Commons Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0034, 2015 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-7750, 976 Breckenridge Ln, 894-6292. The angle that distinguishes this ice cream chain is the long list of add-ons that fans can choose to have worked into their favorite flavor: bananas, berries, candies, cookies and nuts, to name a few. Ice cream cakes, smoothies and shakes too. $ THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979, 2223 Frankfort Ave., 409-4616, 339 W. Cardinal Blvd., 4095090, 1449 Bardstown Rd., 365-2853, 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 883-4131, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport).

Now fans of this “new-fashioned” ice-cream parlor can find their favorite flavors popping up all over town. And, you can now find Comfy Cow products in Krogers ice cream section. $ f CREME DE LOU 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market).

House-made ice cream here, with all your favorite flavors plus - blackberry ricotta basil, Fat Elvis and Zanzibar chocolate. $ f DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 3689280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate wrapped in choux pastry are also available. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 3500 Frankfort Ave., 451-7151.

Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $$

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 79

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:05 PM Page 80

DINO’S BAKERY 4162 Bardstown Rd., 493-2396. Dino Ghazawi, whose family owned a bakery in his native Jordan, has renovated space in the Buechel Plaza Shopping Center, installed three ovens for baking pita, French and Italian bread and pies. Many of those are sold wholesale, but retail shoppers can get locally made fresh pita and other Middle Eastern groceries. $ B DIVINE TREATS 1404 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN. 5901470. This Southern Indiana bakery and café provides cakes, cookies and other treats. $ B L EHRLER'S ICE CREAM 201 E. Main St., 749-2236.

Louisville’s iconic ice cream shop returns after a long hiatus. Good, locally-made ice cream and nostalgia for the ice cream treats of childhood will be the main draws. $ f FLORA KITCHENETTE 1004 Barret Ave., 742-3843. This Germantown bakery offers vegan and non-allergenic pastries and baked goods. Selections include cake donuts, toaster tarts, cupcakes, cookies, brownies, granola and macarons. $ B Br L f GELATO GILBERTO 9434 Norton Commons Blvd., 4237751. Justin and Kristin Gilbert so loved the gelato they ate as students in Italy that they returned there after graduating to study gelato making. Their popular store draws fans out to Norton Commons, though owners can often be found scooping cones and cups at special events. Their store menu includes pies and crepes as well. $ h GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4998, 10538 Fischer Park Dr., 426-2113. This Tennessee-based chain now has two shops in Louisville, offering a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $ HALF PEACH CAFÉ 4121 Oechsli Ave., 742-7839. This vegan café joins the dining options behind the old Sears building in St. Matthews. Menu choices include mushroom drumsticks, pan-fried dumplings, veggie burgers, wraps and falafel, salads and soups, gluten-free baked goods and smoothies. $$ L HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ HI-FIVE DOUGHNUTS 1011 E. Main St., 409-5584.

Owners Annie Harlow and Leslie Wilson started with a food truck, and now are among the pioneer businesses in the Butcher Block on E. Main St. Customers can create their own with a choice of glazes and toppings or choose house favorites like Kentucky Fried Buttermilk Chicken Doughnut, Bourbon Caramel with Bacon, or Sugah Doughnut. $ B L

with the whole office. The Jeffersonville location is open 24 hrs. $ B L D h KING DONUTS 608 Lyndon Ln., 890-5293. Donuts, yes, but you can also choose muffins, breakfast sandwiches and sandwiches for lunch. Healthy juices as well as coffee. $ B LD L'BADS ICE CREAM PARLOR 2606 W. Market St., 8027519. In addition to ice cream treats, this West End business serves breakfast items like fried egg and cheese sandwiches, French toast and waffles, and sandwiches and pizza for lunch. $ B L D h f LIÈGE & DAIRY ICE CREAM + WAFFLES 2212 Holiday Manor Ctr., 791-7991, 12003 Shelbyville Rd. The East End and Middletown enjoy this shop’s locally roasted coffee and in-house crafted ice cream. Made with local honey, sorghum molasses, fruits, and non-GMO cream, Liège uses a process that creates a denser ice cream. $ L Dh

STATE DONUTS 12907 Factory Ln., 409-8825. $ STEEL CITY POPS 1021 Bardstown Rd., 324-1008, 117 St. Matthews Ave., 473-5350. This Alabama-based chain bills itself as a “gourmet healthy popsicle business,” with its cooling treats made from certified organic ingredients with no artificial flavors or colors. $ L D h

MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 426-9645.

All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ B

SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite donut by mid-morning.

Coffee to go too, of course, and even little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ B

NO BAKED COOKIE DOUGH 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 708-2656. The eggless cookie dough is scooped into cones or cups, and toppings can be added. Like an ice cream shop — only….with cookie dough. $ L D h NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This old-school, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true — bacon. $ B NORTH LIME DONUTS 1228 S. Seventh St., 398-5739.

This Lexington-based bakery has renovated a 19th-century factory building into a warm and inviting space to eat their made-on-premises donuts on the western edge of Old Louisville. Some of their unusual flavors: blueberry cheesecake, French toast and pumpkin cream cheese. $ B Lf

HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this downhomey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ B

PEARL STREET TREATS 301 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN. 288-8850. An invigorating walk across the Big Four Bridge will bring you down very close to this family-run frozen yogurt shop that also serves soup, chili, cookies, popcorn, and frozen dog treats. Novelty soda flavors in the cooler, but they will refill your water bottle for free. $ L D

80 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

SCARLET'S BAKERY 741 E. Oak St., 290-7112, 200 S. Fifth St., (First Trust Center) 290-7112, 106 Fairfax Ave., 290-7112. This nonprofit employs exploited and trafficked women, giving them new skills and confidence in the future. Owner Rachelle Starr works with graduates of Sullivan U.’s pastry program to teach the skills to make macarons, cookies, cinnamon rolls and muffins, and to interact positively with the public. The menu also includes lunch items: Greek salad, soup of the day, grilled cheese, BLT and grilled chicken pesto sandwich. $ B L

LUEBERRY ACAI & SUPERFOODS 808 E. Market St., 742-0640. This café serves açai bowls topped with things like goji berries, banana, chia, strawberries and coconut.

Smoothies and other healthful options also available. $$ B LD

PANCHITOS ICE CREAM 8112 Preston Hwy, 890-3935, 2245 Bardstown Rd., 749-2375. Lexington-based Panchito’s now has two outlets in Louisville, offering Mexican ice cream, popsicles (paletas), tacos, quesadillas and other Mexican snacks. The new Highlands outpost is in the former Bánh Mi Hero building. $ L D

JEFF'S BAKERY 5420 IN-62, Jeffersonville IN, 283-3636, 4430 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 725-7170. Donuts are the draw here at these two Southern Indiana bakeries.

Jeff concocts 40 variations, some large enough to be shared

RAWNAISSANCE DESSERTS 1759 Bardstown Rd., 4243638. Owner Barbora Shneydman offers “guilt-free” dessert concoctions, a variety of chocolate and fruit truffles, and cakes made with raw vegan ingredients.

Everything is free of sugar, grains, soy, dairy and eggs. $ L D

LOUISVILLE CREAM 632 E. Market St., 882-1516. After three years as an off-the-radar caterer and pop-up seller of premium ice creams, Louisville Cream has settled down in NuLu. Co-founder Darryl Goodner offers eight standard flavors (including Camp Marshmallow, Brown Sugar Brie and Hot Fuzz, roasted peaches with charred jalapenos) and four flavors in rotation, as well as apple pies, bourbon chocolate pies and a third ever-changing pie. $ L D

HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 3521 Springhurst Commons Dr., 326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 2393880, 3113 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 5903580, 9561 Hwy. 42, 614-8202, 4810 Dixie Hwy., 4096100. $ L D h f

JASMIN BAKERY 2201 Steier Ln., 458-0013. This “European-style” bakery offers an eclectic menu of Eastern Mediterranean fare, such as gyros and baklava, as well as breads. $ B L D f

institution on hot summer nights has been a tradition since 1952. Soft serve ice cream in any variation (cones, sundaes, shakes, floats), a wide range of burgers, dogs, sandwiches and sides. Worth the trip. $ L D f

PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your hand-decorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ B POLLY FREEZE 5242 IN-62, Georgetown IN, 945-6911.

The scenic drive out Highway 62 to this Southern Indiana

SNOWHAT 3801 Poplar Level Rd., 742-6080. After a hot day at the zoo, stop by this New Orleans-style snoball shop for a cooling cone. Blueberry and strawberry flavors, and for the more adventurous: lavender lemonade, watermelon basil and jalapeño margarita. $ L D

SWEET FROG 1401 Veterans Parkway Ct., Clarksville IN, 725-7765. The hook here is a wall of live-culture self-serve yogurt dispensers. A toppings bar includes sprinkles, chocolate and butterscotch sauces, graham crackers — and on and on. $ B SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. This long-time southern Indiana home-style bakery is noted for baked goods just like your grandmother made. Its specialty: painted sugar cookies, with designs in white chocolate that change with the seasons and holidays. Also custom cookie and cake designs. $ B SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 899-2008.

Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts. $$ h f SWEETS BY MORGAN 533 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. 644-4276. Owner Morgan Coomer is dedicated to scratch baking and using real butter in her icings. Expect the usual sweet bakery items like cookies and cupcakes, along with clever specialties. $ B L D THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is part of the culinary program at Sullivan University. It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ THE FUDGERY 416 S Fourth St.(Fourth Street Live), 4097484.$ WILLIAM’S BAKERY 1051 N. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN, 284-2867. $ B

78 COFFEE SHOP 907 E Liberty St., 290-5046. This NuLu roastery and coffee shop, with connections to the SeattleSpokane coffee culture, takes its products seriously, as it

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_Fall19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/28/19 8:05 PM Page 81

carves out its nook in the burgeoning Louisville coffee scene. Located next to Falls City Brewery. $ BEAN 1138 Goss Ave., 785-4079. $ B L BEAN STREET CAFÉ 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1404. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $ BLACKBEARD ESPRESSO 718 W. Main St., 618-0004.

Former food truck Blackbeard Espresso now has a Main St. storefront, taking over for Mrs. Potters. Look for coffee, hot and cold teas, milkshakes and smoothies, which the truck’s limited generator couldn’t handle. Baked goods include muffins and scones for those who need a carb lift with their caffeine. $ B L COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-2633. $ f THE COFFEE ZONE 1301 Herr Ln. (Westport Village), 785-4676. North Carolinian transplant Craig Bishop has established a beachhead in Louisville. In his Westport Village store he features bakery items, such as pastries, and assorted sandwiches along with good java. $ f DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ hf ENDLESS SUMMER PADDLE & COFFEE COMPANY 1301 Frankfort Ave., 203-1041. Located in the Waterside Apartments, this stand-up paddleboard livery also offers a coffee shop. Fresh juice, smoothies and snacks are available for paddlers, paddleboard students, and landlubbers. $ B L FANTE'S COFFEE 2501 Grinstead Dr., 454-0543. Owner Leo Fante has been in the coffee business most of his life, and has finally opened his own shop across the road from Cherokee Park. Fante imports his beans from small suppliers around the world, and roasts on premise. There is also a limited menu of sandwiches, soups and salads, and breakfast pastries. $ B L D pf

selection of sandwiches, pastries and house-made vegan ice cream. $ B L D NTABA COFFEE HAUS 2407 Brownsboro Rd., 871-5082.

It is always fun to see former chain restaurant buildings repurposed. The one-time Pizza Hut in Clifton is now a purveyor of African-sourced coffees and teas. $ B L

comfortable seating, house-made crepes, and coffee roasted at the Logan Street Market, where there is a second shop.$ B L f SISTER BEAN’S 5225 New Cut Rd., 364-0082. $ f STARBUCKS COFFEE (40+ locations) $ f

PEARL STREET GAME & COFFEE HOUSE 405 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN, 648-1663. The name says it all: you can play your favorite boards games from the extensive library of such while enjoying coffee drinks, fresh fruit smoothies, lavender lattes, and sandwiches. $ B L D f

STARLIGHT COFFEE CO. 3131 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 542-1522. This sister outlet to Bean Street Coffee also produces high quality joe to those on the upper fringes of New Albany. In both you can find all the popular varieties of coffee and chai, as well as baked goods from Adrienne’s. $ f

PLEASE & THANK YOU 800 E. Market St., 553-0113, 2341 Frankfort Ave., 432-8614, 252 E. Market St., 9386423. The quick success of their NuLu coffee house that serves breakfast, lunch, and an eclectic selection of vinyl records, led to expansion into Crescent Hill and most recently another store on Market Street closer to downtown. $ B L f

SUNERGOS COFFEE 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820, 231 S. Fifth St., 589-3222.

Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee. $

QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129, 327 W. Cardinal Blvd., 690-5553, 137 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-3426, 802 E. Main St., 473-5379, 117 St. Matthews Ave., 242-8608. Fans of this local purveyor of excellent coffee and provider of amenable working spaces can find their caffeine fix and wi-fi hotspot at any of the four locations. $ pf RED HOT ROASTERS 1399 Lexington Rd., 569-0000, 1007 E. Main St. The original drive-through joint moved across Lexington Rd. to larger quarters, and now an actual sit-and-sip coffeehouse has opened in the Butcher Block development on Main St. Owner Sondra Powell houses the business’s roasting operations there and has expanded food offerings along with indoor and outdoor café seating. $f SAFAI COFFEE 1707 Bardstown Rd., 384-3555, 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market). This casual spot boasts the ambiance of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with

THE SWORD & THE SCONE TEA PARLOR & BOUTIQUE 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 907-0018. This tea room in J’town serves a wide variety of teas, tisanes and blooming teas, pastries, sandwiches and salads. Stop by for an afternoon tea, or go all the way with a high tea, just like the Dowager Lady Violet. Available for parties and showers too. $ L D VINT COFFEE 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060. Owned by Heine Bros., this Crescent Hill location is the only one that keeps the name that reflects the concept that all their beverages — coffee, tea, ale and wine — “have a vintage, an annual release cycle.” $ f WILD DOG ROSE TEA BOUTIQUE 1570 Bardstown Rd., 996-7440. You can find all things New Age at this tea and book shop. In addition to dozens of teas, Wild Dog Rose stocks crystals, essential oils, books and baked goods such as scones, tea-infused truffles and muffins. Tea sold by the cup, or in bulk, and can be custom-blended to suit a customer’s preferences. $ B

HEINE BROTHERS’ COFFEE (16 locations) Heine Bros. continues their dominance in the local brewing scene. The stores are always friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches. $ h fe HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 451-4545.

Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattlestyle ambience is a plus. $ f HIGHVIEW ICE CREAM & COFFEE 7525 Outer Loop, 618-3809. This suburban oasis offers coffee and specialty coffee drinks made from Sunergos beans and serves locally-made Bernoulli Small Batch Ice Cream. $ B L D h KOLKIN COFFEE 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 920-0593. This family run caffeine dispensary on the north side of New Albany serves coffee from Sunergos roastery in a cheerful, inviting environment. $ LOUISVILLE TEA COMPANY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 365-2516. Teas of all sorts, pastries and cookies make for a perfect morning snack the English call “elevenses.” $ BL M+A+F GALLERY & CAFÉ 976 Barret Ave., 558-3031.

Both an art gallery and coffee house, M+A+F has positioned itself as a quiet and esthetically pleasing spot for a vegetarian & vegan friendly lunch or a quick coffee and cinnamon roll, all made in-house. $ MCQUIXOTE BOOKS & COFFEE 1512 Portland Ave., 530-9658. Located in the sprawling Tim Faulkner Gallery, itself a hipster arts hub, this bookstore also has a coffee shop-café that serves higher-end coffee and teas, a

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019

81

MAP INDEX

Maps_Fall19_Ed.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 8/28/19 8:12 PM Page 82

MAP # DIRECTION DOWNTOWN 1 downtown louisville NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel

82 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

PAGE #

84 85 86 87

MAP # DIRECTION EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder

PAGE #

88 89 90 90

MAP # DIRECTION WEST 9 west louisville NORTH EAST 10 prospect SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek SOUTH WEST 12 shively – pleasure ridge

PAGE #

91

91 91 92

MAP # DIRECTION SOUTH 13 old louisville – airport INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs INDIANA 15 clarksville INDIANA 16 jeffersonville

MAP INDEX

Maps_Fall19_Ed.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 8/28/19 8:12 PM Page 83

PAGE #

93 94 95 95

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 83

DOWNTOWN

MAP • 1

Maps_Fall19_Ed.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 8/28/19 8:12 PM Page 84

84 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON

MAP • 2

Maps_Fall19_Ed.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 8/28/19 8:12 PM Page 85

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 85

(NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS

MAP • 3

Maps_Fall19_Ed.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 8/28/19 8:12 PM Page 86

86 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

(SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL

MAP • 4

Maps_Fall19_Ed.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 8/28/19 8:12 PM Page 87

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 87

(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN

MAP • 5

Maps_Fall19_Ed.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 8/28/19 8:12 PM Page 88

88 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

(EAST) HURSTBOURNE SOUTH – FOREST HILLS – JEFFERSONTOWN

MAP • 6

Maps_Fall19_Ed.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 8/28/19 8:12 PM Page 89

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 89

MAP • 8

(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER

(NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT

MAP • 7

Maps_Fall19_Ed.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 8/28/19 8:12 PM Page 90

90 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

MAP • 11

(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK

(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT

MAP • 10

(WEST) WEST LOUISVILLE

MAP • 9

Maps_Fall19_Ed.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 8/28/19 8:12 PM Page 91

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 91

(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE

MAP • 12

Maps_Fall19_Ed.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 8/28/19 8:12 PM Page 92

92 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

(SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT

MAP • 13

Maps_Fall19_Ed.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 8/28/19 8:12 PM Page 93

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 93

(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS

MAP • 14

Maps_Fall19_Ed.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 8/28/19 8:12 PM Page 94

94 Fall 2019 www.foodanddine.com

MAP • 16

(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

MAP • 15

Maps_Fall19_Ed.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 8/28/19 8:12 PM Page 95

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2019 95

Maps_Fall19_Ed.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 8/28/19 8:12 PM Page 96

Cover Pages_Fall19_Ed.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 8/28/19 3:16 PM Page 3

Cover Pages_Fall19_Ed.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 8/28/19 3:16 PM Page 4