Winter 2013 (Vol. 42)

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WINTER 2013 | NOV - DEC - JAN www.foodanddine.com

profiles

josh moore|main street cafÊ|lotsa pasta bourbons bistro|heitzman traditional bakery (pictured) Volare’s bone-in pork chop, finished with white wine, olives and butter.

restaurant guide

plus

over 1,000 restaurant listings and maps to them all

mexican fiesta party|10 budget party wines $10 challenge|local cocktail mixes

chef Q&A

nick sullivan of 610 magnolia

NOW

FREE


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WINTER 2013 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF RON MIKULAK BUSINESS MANAGER PAUL M. SMITH CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY ONLINE EDITOR STEVE COOMES COLUMNISTS JAY FOREMAN SCOTT HARPER ASHLEE CLARK THOMPSON ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD CONTRIBUTING WRITERS CARLA CARLTON GREG GAPSIS MICHAEL L. JONES KATY YOCOM CONTRIBUTING COLUMNISTS TODD ANTS GORDON “GORDO” JACKSON JOHN JOHNSON NEIL WELLINGHURST MAGAZINE DESIGN AND LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR KATHY KULWICKI SALES MANAGER GINA R. WOLFE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE

Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 (502) 509-EATS (3287)

www.foodanddine.com facebook.com/foodanddine follow us on Twitter @FDzine For Advertising information call 502.509.3287 (EATS) Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. *Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.

ON THE COVER: Volare’s bone-in pork chop, finished with white wine, olives and butter. (see story page 16) Photo by Dan Dry 4

Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com


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WINTER 2013 - VOLUME 42

RESTAURANT GUIDE

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DINING GUIDE Our comprehensive listing of over 1,000 area restaurants complete with reviews.

MAPS (RESTAURANT LOCATOR)

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Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps — a unique resource you can’t find elsewhere.

FEATURES

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JOSH MOORE

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Greg Gapsis profiles Volare’s managing partner and executive chef, who is also an enthusiastic farmer, an artist in spun sugar and a fitness fanatic.

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CHEF Q & A

Chef Nick Sullivan of 610 Magnolia answers a few questions you’ve always wanted to ask. And some we should never have asked.

PROFILES URBAN BOURBON TRAIL: Bourbons Bistro

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Another of Carla Carlton’s explorations of one of the 27 restaurants in the metro area that celebrates America’s classic distilled, aged spirit.

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PICK THREE Main Street Café, Lotsa Pasta, and Heitzman Traditional Bakery — three very different ways to think about that classic American food purveyor: the delicatessen.

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COLUMNS STARTERS

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COMINGS & GOINGS

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A summary of changes on the local restaurant scene, with openings, closings, moves and more.

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HUMOR Go along with our humor writer to the National Food Show in Las Vegas to get ideas on how to wow the neighbors in your next kitchen renovation.

FOOD

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$10 CHALLENGE: Bristol

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Ashley Clark Thompson finds a classy, affordable lunch at one of Louisville’s iconic dining spots.

EASY ENTERTAINING: Mexican fiesta

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A simple, yet tasty, Mexican-style fiesta that is a breeze to host.

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LIQUIDS

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SPIRITS: Local cocktail mixers Finding the balance between bitter and sweet, with a couple of locally-produced cocktail ingredients. Booze not included.

CORK 101: Holiday party wines

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Our wine gurus pick their favorite affordable red and white wines, just in time to plan your holiday open house. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2013

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BY RON MIKULAK

comings goings & The activity in the local restaurant scene continues to be surprisingly strong, steadily chugging along, adding up to a total that took by surprise even this writer, who thought he was keeping his antenna tuned to the news. But it turns out the four new places that had caught my attention — Loop 22, Atlantic No. 5, Jackknife Café and the return of La Peche — were only the tip of the 20 new restaurants that have opened in the last three months, and that doesn’t count the seven established businesses that have opened new locations. In the same time, 17 restaurants have folded, and four other businesses with multiple outlets closed one of their locations. That makes for 27 restaurants that have opened against 21 that have closed, if you are counting. NEW TABLES The four new places that registered on my radar are all new enterprises spun off by established restaurateurs. Michael Kusman-Trager and his crew at Rye have opened a New York-style deli, Atlantic No. 5, at 605 W. Main St. The charcuterie that Rye Executive Chef Tyler Morris has been crafting will be one attraction, among many, on the new deli’s menu. After several years developing her upscale Cellar Door Chocolate line, Erica Chavez-Gratiano is venturing into the restaurant world with Jackknife Café, 1201 Story Ave. The brunch and lunch café in the Butchertown Market building will offer a thoughtful selection of breakfast sandwiches and hot cereal, and sandwiches, soups and salads for lunch. Those ambitious fellows behind Hammerheads and Game, Chase Mucerino and Adam Burress, are backing Chef Eric Morris at Loop 22, 2222 Dundee Rd., who plans a rotisserie-based menu with “world flavors.” And Kathy Cary is re-opening her 6

Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com

La Peche Gourmet to Go and Cafe in what has been for many years the private dining room at Lilly’s, 1147 Bardstown Rd. The Louisville central area has seen four new restaurants open recently. W.g. Grinders is downtown at 430 W. Jefferson St., Le Bossier Café caters to the near West End at 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., Pizza Donisi provides take out pies for Old Louisville and beyond at 1396 S. Second St., and Old Louisville Tavern offers beer and upscale bar food for the U of L community at 1532 S. Fourth St. Elsewhere in Louisville, Atypical Man BBQ is smoking at 119 St. Matthews Ave. Ginza Asian Bistro serves sushi and more at 9420 Shelbyville Rd., and Clay Oven Indian Restaurant brings tandoori and other Nor thern Indian specialties to Middletown at 12567 Shelbyville Rd. Teena’s Pizza is now baking at 3799 Poplar Level Rd., in the location that was Frolio’s Pizza for many years. Three new places are ser ving Mexican cuisine at various venues around Louisville. Benito’s


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Burritos is at 13301 Magisterial Dr., La Riviera Maya is at 8104 National Turnpike, and Hay Chi Wa Waa at 808 Lyndon Lane has garnered strong early word of mouth for its convincingly authentic preparations. Across the river, Jeffersonville has seen two new restaurant openings, and New Albany has added three. Big Four Burgers and Beer is serving its titular items at 134 Spring St. in Jeffersonville, and JJ Fish & Chicken is frying at 1701 E. Tenth St. In New Albany, Daisy Mae’s offers Southern home-style food in a homey atmosphere at 223 W. Fifth St. — the old Lancaster’s location. Primo’s Delicatessen makes sandwiches and soups at 153 E. Main St., and at Aladdin’s Café, 111 W. Market St., you can find the usual range of Middle Eastern fare — gyros, shwarma and hummus. Three chains that first set up shop downtown have opened additional locations in the suburbs. Zaxby’s has a fifth outlet at 10715 Dixie Hwy., Potbelly Sandwich Shop has opened another sandwich shop at 4023 Summit Plaza Dr., and Chipotle Mexican Grill has another store at 10333 Westport Rd. Golden Corral has opened another grill spot at 5326 Dixie Hwy., and China 1 has another Asian hot table place at 8105 Lagrange Rd. Cellar Door Chocolates has opened a kiosk at 7900 Shelbyville Rd., in the Oxmoor Mall, just in time for the holidays. And the amusingly named Muscle Monkey Grill opened its fourth store in the New Albany Public Library at 180 W. Spring St., New Albany.

CLOSINGS Odd, unfortunate events contributed to the recent closings of some popular eating places. A bold daylight burglary of cash from Lil Cheezers added to the financial problems that led to the closure of the store at 938 Baxter Ave., but Matt Davis’s Lil Cheezers food trucks are still running and serving. Accumulation of significant arrears in tax payments forced the closure of two long-time dining favorites. Baxter Station Bar & Grill, 1201 Payne St., and Seafood Connection, 3941 Chenoweth Sq. A long-running dispute with the landlord resulted in the rather abrupt closing of The Blind Pig, 1076 E. Washington St. There was no “rather” modifying the unexpected closure of Ri Ra Irish Pub, 8

Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com

445 S. Fourth St. — one day it was there, and the next it was gone. And Champps Americana closed after a relatively short tenure, leaving a major retail space empty at 302 Bullitt Ln. Speaking of shor t tenures, Christopher’s barely opened at 1250 Bardstown Rd., on the Baxter Theater side of Mid-City Mall, before it faded away. Other restaurant closures include Fish-Fry House, 2280 Bardstown Rd., Hazelwood Restaurant, 4106 Taylor Blvd., Soul Food by Tiffany, 701 Algonquin Pkwy., and Sato’s Zen Sushi and Sake, 285 N. Hubbard’s Ln. Long-time pizza purveyor Frolio’s closed, but its space at 3799 Poplar Level Rd. was quickly taken over by Teena’s Pizza. And for some reason, it has been a hard season for barbecue joints. Five have recently closed, including Bluegrass BBQ at 119 St. Matthews Ave., Derby City BBQ & Catering, 2932 S. Fourth St., Duvalle Grub N Scrub, 3501 Cane Run Rd., Pit Stop Bar-B-Que at 13303 Magisterial Dr., and Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House at 1548 W. St. Catherine St. Three multi-location food businesses have shrunk by one outlet each. Queen of Sheba Ethiopian closed its downtown location at 528 S. Fifth St., and Java Brewing closed one suburban coffeehouse at 135 S. English Station Rd. Earth Friends Café closed the New Albany store at 180 W. Spring St., but is still ser ving a mostly vegetarian menu in downtown Louisville on Market St.

CHANGES Two dining establishments decided to change their names, but kept most other aspects of their businesses the same. Great Life Café has changed the names on their four locations to Muscle Monkey Grill (go figure) and La Bocca Pizzeria in the Indiana Knobs at 2708 Paoli Pike is now Mimo’s Pizzeria.

CORRECTION And, finally, we apologize to the good folks at Gavi’s Restaurant, 222 S. Seventh St. Try as we might, we don’t always get it right. F&D reported last issue that Gavi’s Restaurant had closed. We are happy to state correctly that Gavi’s has not closed, but, indeed continues to provide good food to its loyal customer base. F&D regrets the error. F&D


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Give your holiday favorites an extra kick with sauces that bring home the true taste of Africa. Look for the Kilimanjaro brand at your local grocery and if you don’t see it, ask for it! kfoodsinc.com

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BY JAY FOREMAN

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I recently went to the International Baking Industry Exposition in Las Vegas to spec equipment for a planned commissary for our baker y business here in New Orleans. While I was indeed looking for some “next level” kind of stuff, I was not expecting robots and fully automated production lines with pass-through ovens boasting more interior space than my first apartment. So in the event you are seeking to upgrade your kitchen, I humbly suggest the following appliances. They might be just what you need to give your remodel a little bit of pizzazz, and I can state with confidence that the Jones’ next door will be utterly incapable of keeping up with this stuff. Unitherm “Tunnel of Fire” Flash Roasting Solution Tunnel Oven At our bakery now we use a rotating rack oven that can cook 10 sheet pans of pastry goodness in a single bound. I thought that was kind of a big deal, until I saw this machine that basically looks like a cross between a Balrog and a nuclear bomb. Watching as raw turkeys were conveyed through its fiery maw only to emerge as golden brown nuggets of sliceable deliciousness on the other side made me feel very, very small and filled me with tunnel-oven envy.

AreoAsia Liquid Nitrogen Spiral Blast Freezer I’d heard about this sort of thing but had assumed they were only found on high-tech Japanese “Factory” fishing ships where one would catch a big-eye tuna and — zappow — transform it into a 600-pound Ahi Popsicle in, like, 10 seconds. Boy, was I mistaken. Apparently you use these sorts of things for pastry as well, which made me feel a bit ignorant when this was pointed out to me, a bakery owner. My first thought, naturally, was whether this was the same model that Darth Vader used to freeze Han Solo in

Diosna 401a Wendel Spiral Mixer with Hydraulic Lift For our current bread program we use a 40-quart Hobart floor mixer. Again, when I bought the Hobart used for several grand back in the day I thought it was pretty fancy. Oh, how wrong I was. Does mine have a hydraulic lift? Nope. Can mine handle 800 pounds of dough in one batch? Nyet. At least the one I saw here would save me a cool $120,000 off the original retail price as it is fully “remanufactured” to the low, low tune of just $100,000. So it is a toss-up — either this or a fully-equipped 2014 Range Rover.

Tromp Group Handling System Perhaps I’ve been going about this bakery thing all wrong, what with using humans and all. Why not a complete and fullyautomated pastry solution? This top-ofthe-line processing system includes loaders, unloaders, cooling and proofing components, tunnel ovens and depanners, as well as a continuous conveyor belt assembly. True, this gets away from our artisanal bakery roots, but with this method I don’t have to worr y about whether our flakey 3:00 a.m. shift bread guy decided to stay in bed because of a touch of ennui. With this gear, I can be sure that production never stops. But if you have to ask what it costs, that probably means you can’t afford it. 10 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com

carbonite, but could not muster the cheek to ask this of the sales person. At this point he already knows I am stupid so I don’t want him to know I’m a dork as well.

Riehle ComJet Pretzel Lye Application Machine Leave it to the Germans to come up with a fully mechanized


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contraption that basically sends innocent knots of harmless dough through a caustic waterfall of lye to transform them into pretzels, the trend du jour. True, this automated system is probably safer than our current method of equipping our employees with gloves, a slotted spoon, a bucket of lye and a liability waiver, but then again we can’t afford the price tag for the real deal here. My hope is that when the pretzel fad fades the marketplace will be littered with these machines at bargainbasement prices, which I foresee as the commercial equivalent of the Bread Maker craze of the 90s, when such appliances littered Salvation Army and thrift stores nationwide.

Cornucopia KN550 Ultimate High-Performance Encrusting Machine Don’t snicker at the phrase “Encrusting Machine” — this is one cool customer. You know all those weird Japanese underbaked colorful pastry goo products you see in Asian grocery stores? You can make your own with this puppy. It fills buns, dumplings, Hello Kitty! miniature pies — you name it. Plus, per the brochure, it is “Ideal for Meat Products.” Order yours today. Oh wait, it costs how many million yen? How many hundreds of thousands of U.S. dollars is that? Never mind.

PreGel Anything I spent way too much time here because they were giving out free gelato samples. Not equipment, but a line of gelato and confection products that are basically, highend shortcuts for luxury foodstuffs. Which are actually pretty cool and genuinely tasty. Among the finds was a Tiramisu kit where you just add water and poof! — instant fancy Italian dessert. Bring some of this on your next camping trip and be the talk of the campfire. What’s for dessert? S’mores? How gauche. Try this … It is fun to drool over this stuff, even though in doing so I am in full acceptance that when time actually comes to pull out the checkbook I will be combing eBay and Craigslist for beat-up used gear that fits my actual budget. But hey, dreaming big is part of the reason to go to Vegas in the first place, right? Now excuse me while I go play my Lord of the Rings progressive slot in the hopes that I’ll hit the jackpot, which will pay out enough to purchase the commercial kitchen of my dreams. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2013

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BY TIM LAIRD | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

M

In the

ix

Although mixers are an instrumental part of building a delicious cocktail, the wrong mix can turn a good spirit into a bad cocktail. When I speak about cocktails, I always emphasize balance because you want to let the true flavor of the spirit shine through. During prohibition, bad mixers and sugar were heavily used — and needed — to mask the poorly or illegally produced spirit. Now, with so many high quality spirits available, balanced tastes are essential. We can be Kentucky Proud to have several local producers making great products to help enhance our cocktail crafting. Matt Jamie of Bourbon Barrel Foods is making some of the best bitters on the planet, aging his concoctions in used Bourbon barrels. Kilimanjaro Foods makes some of the best exotic and enjoyable syrups that add flavor and sweetness to round out our cocktails. I love that our local Kentucky farmer, Dan Holloway, has developed a Bloody Mary mix that is delicious with vodka and even better with Bourbon! Way to go Dan for thinking “out of the barrel” and finding another way to use Bourbon. I have included several recipes for you to try with these Kentucky-crafted artisan products. Try these and experiment on your own with great locally produced brands. Cheers!

Bourbon Barrel Foods Woodford Reserve Bitters Bitters started out as a medicinal ingredient that was supposed to cure many ailments. Then, enterprising mixologists worked them into cocktails, and bitters became part of the definition of what a cocktail is. The first definition of a “cocktail” found in print, in 1806, described the cocktail as made with a spirit of any kind, water, sugar and bitters. Bitters were the quintessential ingredient in the Manhattan and the Old Fashioned. Today bitters, in an array of flavors, are being used more than ever. Bourbon Barrel Foods makes several types of bitters aged in used Woodford Reserve Bourbon barrels, which truly help make these bitters a delight. Matt Jamie currently produces bitters in three flavors — Spiced Cherry, Sassafras & Sorghum, and Aromatic. Here are a couple of cocktails to wet your whistle. For more recipe ideas go to bourbonbarrelfoods.com.

Classic Manhattan In a 2 ½ 3

mixing glass with ice, add: ounces Woodford Reserve Bourbon ounce sweet vermouth dashes Woodford Reserve Spiced Cherry Bitters

Stir for at least 30 seconds, then strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a cherry.

The Sassy Pom In a 1½ 2 1

shaker with ice, add: ounces Old Forester Bourbon ounces lemonade ounce pomegranate juice Squeeze of lemon 2 dashes Woodford Reserve Sassafras & Sorghum Bitters

Shake and strain into rocks glass with ice. Garnish with lemon twist. 12 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com


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Kilimanjaro Foods Artisan Cocktail Mixers A sweetener in a cocktail is a must. Note: It is the sugar that brings out the flavor of fruit. Think about a strawberry. Taste it on its own, then add a little sugar, then taste it again. The sugar makes the strawberry taste more like a straw berr y. Kilimanjaro Foods has developed several wonderful cocktail mixers that make it easy to add flavor and sweetness to enhance a cocktail — Ginger, Brown Sugar, Orange Ginger, and Pumpkin. The cocktails featured below are unique and delicious! For more cocktail inspirations, check out kfoodsinc.com.

Kilimanjaro Ginger Snap

(pictured)

In a shaker with ice, add: 2 ounces Bourbon ¾ ounce Kilimanjaro Brown Sugar Syrup ½ ounce Kilimanjaro Ginger Syrup Squeeze of lemon Splash of ginger ale Shake and strain into a tall glass with ice. Garnish with lemon wedge.

Ginger à l’Orange In a shaker with ice, add: 2 ounces gold rum 1 ounce Kilimanjaro Ginger Syrup 4 ounces orange juice Splash of soda water Shake and strain into a tall glass with ice.

Pumpkin Pie à la Mode In a shaker with ice, add: 2 ounces spiced rum 1 ounce Kilimanjaro Pumpkin Spice Syrup 1 ounce cream Shake and strain into a rocks glass with ice. Top with a sprinkle of cinnamon.

Bloody Kentucky Mix The number one drink enjoyed universally during brunch is the Bloody Mary. Farmer Dan Holloway has developed one of my favorite Bloody Mary mixes of all times. Note that F&D photographer, Dan Dry, is a Bloody Mary aficionado and he loves this mix. That says a lot! What I love about Bloody Kentucky and its creator is that he wanted a Bloody Mary that would complement Bourbon. That, in my world, is a BIG idea. Bourbon has a lot of flavor and I was always wondering how to bring it to the brunch occasion. Thanks Dan for finding the solution. The Village Anchor has created some wonderful Bloody Marys using Bloody Kentucky. I suggest you ask for the bloody menu and try one for yourself. Sorry to my British friends for the bloody pun. Enjoy the Kentucky Proud Mary.

Kentucky Proud Mary In a tall glass with ice, add: 1½ ounces Old Forester Bourbon 4 ounces Bloody Kentucky Good squeeze of lime Stir and garnish as you wish. I like bacon, blue cheese stuffed olives, shrimp and lime.

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BY ASHLEE CLARK THOMPSON | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

Bristol challenge Bar & Grille

$10

A Louisville institution for nearly four decades continues to deliver

In doing research for this review (and by “research,” I mean eating out a lot), I noticed four types of people who spend their afternoons at the Bristol Bar & Grille: ladies who lunch; business people on the clock; parties of one in search of some alone time; and frugal diners like myself. Generally, I turn to Bristol in the evening hours, when I’m in search of a nice Louisville-born and -grown restaurant that will satisfy a variety of palates. The menu is diverse, the food is good and the atmosphere (white cloth tablecloths, servers in black) is a notch above causal dining without the expectations or stuffiness of some fine-dining establishments. I’ve neglected Bristol’s lunch-hour offerings to my own detriment. Like similarly-priced restaurants, the midday menu at Bristol offers a selection of the restaurant’s signature dishes in smaller portions at discounted prices. And with the Bristol’s attentive service and consistent quality, this Louisville original will inject a little class into the middle of your day. Bristol was born in the Highlands in 1977 and has expanded to a total of six locations in the Louisville metro area. Nearly four decades have produced a reliable dining option for the city, yet one that still packs a few surprises. Bristol’s lunch menu is full of sandwiches,


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Good food shouldn’t be a luxur y. In this column, I set out to prove that it is possible to eat a high-quality, low-cost meal within Louisville’s diverse and expanding food scene. My goal is to find a meal at a local restaurant that costs $10 or less (excluding the tip), an ideal limit for those of us who are cashstrapped but have a hard time sacrificing a nice meal outside of the house. salads and pasta dishes that range from familiar and distinctly Southern (the Hot Brown, a Louisville creation of roasted turkey breast with bacon, cheddar cheese and tomato on French bread, with Mornay sauce, $9) to toned-downed, unoffending international dishes (Thai Chicken Stir Fry with peppers, onions, mushrooms and snow peas with Thai chili sauce, $10) that will please a variety of tastes. The lunch menu varies slightly by location — for example, the BBQ Chicken Sandwich with Maker’s Mark Bourbon barbecue sauce (with kettle chips, $9) is only available on the lunch menu at Bristol’s downtown location on Main Street, and the Smokey Poblano Cheese Dip (with hot, salted pretzels, $7) is a Prospect exclusive. Not to worry — some the restaurant’s most popular dishes, such as the Green Chili Wontons ($9, or $6.50 for a half order) and Theresa’s Sweet Chili Linguine ($9) are universal options. The menu might change, but the Bristol’s standards are met across-the-board. If in doubt, go for the combination I tried for this $10 Challenge — soup and salad. This is a more bare-bones option than the larger lunch entrées, but this classic lunch pairing is filling, affordable, and won’t leave you regretting your lunch choice at the 3 p.m. lull in your workday. The House Salad ($4) and the Black Bean Soup ($4 for a cup, $5 for a bowl) combine for a reliably good meal. Pair the salad with the house-made balsamic vinaigrette for a tart compliment to the smokey soup. The salad portion was generous, and the bowl of black bean soup more than satisfied any lingering hunger. The soup is a hearty, thick dish with most beans still intact as opposed to meeting the fate of an immersion blender. Chunks of mild sausage make the soup even more filling. Chopped red onions add a great crunch to the soup. And don’t be ashamed to dip a piece of Bristol’s crispy roll into the soup — the flavors were so good, I didn’t want to waste any dregs of soup at the bottom of the bowl. The Bristol has been around for nearly four decades. There’s a reason for that. The food is good and appeals to an array of diners. Shame on me for not discovering the Bristol lunch menu sooner.

The Bottom Line: Bristol House Salad: $4 Black Bean Soup (bowl): $5 Total (without tax and tip): $9 Mission: Accomplished (And what a delicious accomplishment it was! To go from a cup of soup to a bowl for just another buck felt like such a bargain, that I just had to go for it. You could opt for the cup, and almost stay under budget including tax and tip.)

Bristol Bar & Grille 1321 Bardstown Rd. | (502) 456-1702 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. | (502) 426-0627 6051 Timber Ridge Dr. | (502) 292-2585 1860 Mellwood Ave. | (502) 584-3663 614 W. Main St. | (502) 582-1995 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN | (812) 218-1995 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2013 15


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On the

Rise


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S

cattered around the fields of Josh Moore’s farm near Taylorsville are several pieces of antique farm equipment. To some they might look like rusting hulks, but Moore appreciates the way time and weather have turned the prosaic, workaday tools of the horse-drawn agricultural era into works of abstract art. He currently has a hay rake, a sickle cutter and a manure spreader, which he has to move around the farm when they get in the way when it is time to cut his pastures. That might seem like just one more job in his busy schedule, but Moore, executive chef and managing partner in Volare Ristorante, finds pleasure in having the old machines around. They are reminders of the way farmers had to work even harder than they now do to provide food for the country.


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BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Chef Josh Moore Rising Star Ready to Shine Along with Edward Lee of 610 Magnolia and Milkwood, and Damaris Phillips, who won a competition to have her own Food Network show, Moore is among the upcoming generation of Louisville chefs who are getting national attention and garnering for Louisville a reputation as a city with a solid food culture, and building a reputation both in and well beyond the Metro’s borders. At 34, Moore is frequently seen on local news and television programs, actively suppor ts with his cooking a wide range of philanthropies, has cooked at the James Beard House on two occasions (this year as presenting chef), and is regional representative for several trade organizations, such as being the Ambassador Chef for Certified Angus Beef. That gig garnered him a week-long trip to Amarillo, Texas, to meet with family farms there who raise Certified Angus cattle, and to follow the beef production from pasture to feedlot to processing house, where he learned a great deal about the beef-grading process. It was a dissatisfaction with the consistency of prime beef grading that led him to investigate Certified Angus beef, which he has found more consistent with his own standards. 18 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com

Volare Italian Ristorante 2300 Frankfort Ave. 502.894.4446

Packed into the stout, muscular frame of a power lifter (he lifts weights or does aerobic workouts five times a week), he exudes an almost boundless optimism and energy in directing an excellent restaurant, running a farm that gives new meaning to the term “locavore,” co-parenting an energetic four-and-a-half-yearold son, Gibson, renovating a 110-year-old farmhouse, collecting antiques and being an amateur paleontologist. The energy which drives this range of interests comes from a focus and determination he learned early on from a mother who successfully struggled against alcoholism and a paraplegic uncle who didn’t let adversity defeat him. “I used to be Uncle Steve’s helper and we spent a lot of time together when I was young,” Moore said. “We’d rent movies and eat pizza together and despite his problems he always kept working. He was truly inspiring. And my Mom’s struggles also gave me a strong desire to succeed.” While Moore loved hanging out and learning in the kitchens of both his grandmothers, fate helped him discover his life’s passion early on, at the age of 14.


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Nobody Asked Moore’s moment of discovery came at Vincenzo’s, one of Louisville’s top-echelon restaurants, where his stepfather was a server and his mother worked in catering. There he gradually talked his way into working under Augustino Gabriele as an assistant pastry chef before he could even drive. “Nobody asked me how old I was. I guess I came across as an old soul beyond my years,” Moore said. “I used to go in and chop 55 pounds of chocolate, mix butter, heft sacks of flour. I loved it and immediately knew I had a passion for it. Because I was only 15, I also ended up riding TARC a lot,” from his home on W. Hill St. to Seneca High School, and then downtown to work at Vincenzo’s. While Moore played sports at Seneca H.S., he admits he wasn’t very studious, and (opposite) Mediterranean salad of heirloom tomatoes, red onions and cucumbers in red wine vinaigrette with feta cheese. (top) Caprese salad of mozzarella, heirloom tomatoes and basil with a balsamic reduction. (center, L-R) Certified Angus Beef N.Y. strip steak crusted with cracked black pepper and finished with a Dijon mustard sauce; breaded veal chop topped with arugula, lemon citronette, tomatoes, Parmesan and balsamic reduction. (below, L-R) Parmesan risotto with a sweet corn and dill purée, artichokes, grilled chicken and red pepper coulis; flourless bittersweet chocolate and orchata cinnamon cream rum cake.


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his fascination with working at Vincenzo’s soon led to his thinking of a career in the food business. He moved on to a Little Caesar’s pizza store, and worked up to assistant manager while still in high school. He then worked at Wildwood Country Club before he found the opportunity that would both hone his skills and mature his vision, getting a job at Porcini’s where he worked under Chef John Plymale. ”It was terrific. I started at 17 as the garde manger, or kitchen pantry clerk, but it was a salaried job, and I finally could get a car. It was a big step up for me,” Moore said. “And Chef Plymale is terrific. He is a patient, easy-going man who is big into teaching and training his staff.” During the seven years with Plymale, Moore worked his way up to sous chef and pastry chef, not a frequent combination, learning important management skills along the way. “He modeled how to interact with people, how to reprimand and fire and hire. I learned that one needs to be patient and consistent and, once they are trained, how to leave good staff alone so that they can be creative,” Moore said. “I also learned that food is a tough business to be in. When you consider how many restaurants open, you realize the success rate is very small.” Moore used his strong work ethic to feed his creative impulses and continued expanding his skills to include ice carving and sugar artistry (for which he has a notable reputation). When he took a position in 2005 at Volare Ristorante, it took only one year for him to become executive chef and one more before the owners offered him the chance to become a managing partner. The relationship gave him the footing to start building his dreams on a larger scale.

A day at the farm might find Josh Moore peddling around the fields to check the readiness of berries, or to see if the onions are ready to pull, or to check that his beehives are happy. Or he might have to fire-up the tractor to till new rows for a late planting. He is never happier than when he can bring in a wheelbarrow full of a day’s eclectic harvest. 20 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com


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The Farm “I moved out here in 2005,” Moore said of his 10-acre farm near Taylorsville with old barns and a green steel-roofed house that obviously has received a lot of attention. “This is where I can get away from it all, have fun with my son, and keep perspective on all my interests.” Most of the home has been renovated, populated with artwork, antiques, and both Gibson’s and Moore’s toys (including a pool room/man cave of righteous dimensions). But the clear center of the household is a commercial-grade kitchen with a welcoming arc of countertop and stools fronting it near the entryway. It bespeaks Moore’s pleasure in cooking and entertaining people, and having them close enough to see their satisfaction. While Moore spends 60 hours a week at Volare, he estimates he puts in another 20 to 35 hours working on the farm garden which supplies about fifty percent of the seasonal produce used in the restaurant. This year, in three cycles, about 2,000 plants went into the ground and were grown to harvest. “It started in 2006 when I put a dozen tomato plants out. When I took the harvest into the restaurant our guests were surprised and enthusiastic about their flavor. The next year, I put in three dozen plants and added broccoli and cabbage and it was the same, an overwhelmingly enthusiastic response,” Moore said. “This year we put in 144 tomato plants, about 30 heirloom varieties, and were harvesting 50 pounds a day at their peak. We also grew broccoli and cabbage, Swiss chard, beans, onions, potatoes, melons and different squash — all-in-all about 50 different vegetables.” There is also another acre of fruit trees, blueberry bushes and both black and raspberries which


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make their way into many of Volare’s desserts. This year Moore started an apiary to be sure his farm had enough bees to pollinate and ensure productivity. Next year Moore, with the assistance of the University of Kentucky School of Agriculture, will begin another section of mulch-bed rows covered in black plastic and with drip irrigation. “I want to ensure supply and maybe extend our growing season a bit,” Moore said. “From the spring to fall, I want to have some representation of the farm being served at the restaurant. Farmto-table has become commonplace, but for me it’s my farm to my table. Going from seed to fork is awesome.”

A Special Luck It’s obvious that Moore works a schedule many would find daunting but he finds a certain happiness, even glee, when the fire is at its hottest. His multi-tasking and hard work also create special oppor tunities that repeatedly seem to materialize for him — even when he is on vacation. One such break came last spring on a trip to Carmel, California before the intensity surrounding the Kentucky Derby kicked in. “I hardly know the West Coast at all, so I decided to take a drive up to the Napa Valley and explore,” Moore said. “On a whim, I stopped at Ar tesa Vineyards and Winer y and I was ver y impressed with their portfolio. After getting acquainted and talking with them about my invitation to present at the James Beard House in July, they offered to partner and supply 100% of the wine for the dinner in New York. It was generous of them, a very select wine, and a great


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step up from what is usually made available to chefs there.” Along with such successes (the James Beard re-creation dinner at Volare sold out 110 seats), Moore also generously shares of his time and talents with local civic and non-profit groups. He’s been giving cooking classes as par t of the Spencer County Extension programs since he settled there in 2005. This year he presented a dinner to raise travel funds for the local 4H judging team. “While some people joke that I’m becoming Spencer County’s most famous celebrity, it’s a fun way to get out and meet my neighbors and let them know I’m committed here,” he said. Moore’s commitments also help numerous, high-profile charities like the March of Dimes (where he has been the organizing chef for their Signature Chef event since 2008), The Multiple Sclerosis Society, Hosparus, and Gilda’s Club, as well as lesser-known organizations like APRON, which raises money to help with restaurant workers’ healthcare costs. These activities brought him recognition this year in Louisville’s NFocus Magazine as one of the “New Faces of Philanthropy.” He was also chosen in 2012 as a rising star in Business First’s annual “40 Under 40” list. While Moore sees a long future at Volare, he also looks forward to opening other restaurants in Louisville, that would express his love of food and the pleasure of serving guests. “I’m lucky because when I wake up in the morning I never feel like I ‘have to go to work’,” Moore said with a broad grin. “Because it’s not work; I’m doing what I love.” F&D An invitation to cook at the James Beard House is an exhausting honor. Chefs have to bring with them all the ingredients for their menus, enough staff to prepare and present the dinner flawlessly, hobnob with the press, work in a surprisingly cramped space, and make it all look easy. And of course chefs and their crew want to see something of the City, and to commune with the spirit of the grand old man himself.

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liquids cork 101

PHOTOGRAPHS BY EDIS CELIK

10 The date is set; the guest list is done; food seemed to be the most difficult, but you have it figured out. And then you remember, ‘What about the wine?’ You know you’ll need a case or two, and want both a good white and red, but you have to stay within a reasonable budget. And you don’t want your reasonable budget to inhibit good taste and style. Good, affordable wine need not be expensive — and buying in quantity often produces discounts to stretch the budget. So ask your favorite wine shop about their quantity discount — many shops give a 5% to 15% discount when purchasing 6 to 12 bottles. Depending on your group, and the menu being served, you’ll need to consider the right proportion of red to white. If your menu or group is weighted more towards white wine, then purchase more white, but if they’re not — and while it’s almost impossible to predict the exact right proportion — a good rule of thumb is 40% white to 60% red. A bottle of wine is roughly 25 ounces, so a bottle holds 4 or 5 glasses, depending on the size of your pour. If you consider 2 or 3 glasses of wine per person, you will need about a bottle of wine for every 2 people. So, divide your guest count in two, round up, and you should be in good shape. Choose from any of our guest wine experts’ selections and rest assured that you will satisfy both good taste and style, all within a reasonable budget. – Scott Harper

24 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com

Party Wines Todd Ants – Owner of Keg Liquors La Vieille Ferme Rouge 2010 (Ventoux, Rhône, France) $8; and La Vieille Ferme Blanc 2011 (Luberon, Rhône, France) $8 When looking for that combination of great taste and economy, nothing fits the bill quite like the La Vieille Ferme line from the Perrin Family Winery. Both wines come from the tradition-rich Rhône region of France, but are two of the most approachable wines on the market today. The Blanc (White) wine is a blend of Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Ugni Blanc, and Roussanne grapes. The flavor is fruity and crisp with a soft finish. The Rouge (Red) wine is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, and Cinsault, the classic grape varieties of all Rhône blends, from table wines to those of Hermitage and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Its flavor is smooth and silky with a touch of blackberry and plum, with a clean, dry finish. Both wines are complex enough to pair with food, but are also bold enough to sip on their own. At $8 each, they are sure to please both your guests and your wallet.

Scott Harper – Resident F&D columnist & Master Sommelier Capestrano Verdicchio di Matelica 2011 (Marche, Italy) $12; and Capestrano Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2012 (Abruzzo, Italy) $10 Italy has long been known for wines that go with food — in fact in Italy wine is food. Italy is also known for great wine value and these are two excellent choices for the money. Named for a small village in Abruzzo, Italy, the Capestrano wines reflect both excellent value and an affinity with food. Made from 100% Verdicchio, the indigenous white grape of the Marche region of Italy, this deliciously dry, light and crisp white wine has the high-tone flavors of citrus and fresh-picked apples. It is the perfect aperitif, and is an impeccable accompaniment to seafood. From the gr ape with 14 letter s (Montepuliciano) comes a wine from the Abruzzo region. It is dry and mediumbodied with plenty of fruit and a touch of violet. This Italian red will complement a vast variety of different foods — from pizza to pasta, antipasti to turkey, and beyond.


Neil Wellinghurst – Kroger Wine & Spirits Specialist

John Johnson – Owner of The Wine Rack

Estancia Chardonnay 2011 (Central Coast, California) $10; and Estancia Merlot 2011 (Central Coast, California) $10

Graziano’s Monte Volpe Primo Bianco 2011 (Mendocino, California) $9; and Tilia Malbec 2012 (Mendoza, Argentina) $10

When looking for value in wine, the first place to begin is where the grapes were grown. For $10 retail at some of the finest wine shops in town, one would expect commonly designated “California” wine to be born in the ancient sea that is now called the Central Valley. But the grapes from these Estancia wines were grown not in the Central Valley, but in the Central Coast region of Southern California. The wines from these grapes possess the sense of terroir — the qualities of soil, water and sun of their place of origin.These wines are representative of the quality being produced in California’s Central Coast region. The Chardonnay (White) is fresh and lively, the flavors of tropical pineapple and stone fruits — peach and pear — dominat ing the nose and palate. This wine would complement the Thanksgiving turkey and all the trimmings. The Merlot (Red) flavors of dark berries — namely blackberry, blueberry and black cherry — are complemented by a touch of spice and vanilla in this approachable yet serious Merlot. It would pair perfectly with your Christmas filet mignon or lamb chops.

When choosing wines for a holiday party my standard advice is to go with versatility, as well as wines that over-deliver on the quality/price ratio. By versatility, I’m talking about wines that go with a broad spectrum of foods and palates. For my money, this pair of wines is up to the task. The Monte Volpe Primo Bianco is made by winemaker and proprietor Gregory Graziano, who comes from a robust family of Italian winemakers; his grandfather Vincenzo immigrated to the U.S. and planted his first vineyard in 1918. Greg’s skill at blending is apparent in this cuvée of Chenin Blanc, Arneis, Pinot Blanc, Colombard, Pinot Grigio, Tocai Friulano, and Cortese grape varieties. Fermentation and aging in neutral French oak barrels adds depth to the tropical fruit and citrus notes. The Tilia Malbec is named for a traditional tree in Mendoza, Argentina. This sustainably-farmed Malbec gives you what you want in a red par ty wine . This medium-bodied red has concentrated fruit notes of black plum and cherry, with just a touch of spice and earth.

Gordon “Gordo” Jackson – Owner of Old Town Wine & Spirits and The Wine Market Chapoutier Belleruche Côtes-duRhône Rouge 2011 (Rhône, France) $13; and Chapoutier Belleruche Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc 2012 (Rhône, France) $13 Choosing wines for gatherings is one of my greatest pleasures. Wines all have individual personalities. Some are playful, while others are more serious, even stoic. For our holiday party we will need to choose wisely as our audience is as varied as our funds are limited. This does not mean that we need to settle for bland or ordinary. After all our party is going to be awesome, so the wine should be great. Rhône wine is going to fit the bill for both red and white. I love them with or without food and they are sure to please everyone from the wine lover to the occasional wine drinker. A blend of the typical Rhône white grapes — Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Bourboulenc — make this a deliciously dry, rich and medium-bodied wine with flavors of apple and ripe citrus. The Rouge is a full-bodied wine packed with red fruits, light pepper and licorice. It is a round, silky wine, and is made from Grenache and Syrah grapes.

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BY CARLA CARLTON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

URBAN Bourbons BOURBON

TRAIL

Bistro

The late-19th-centur y building that In 2008, the Louisville Convention & Visitors Bureau created the Urban Bourbon houses Bourbons Bistro in Clifton was Trail, a culinary and cocktail experience, to capitalize on burgeoning interest in most likely a tavern or roadhouse in its America’s native spirit. Since then, the number of stops has increased from seven initial incarnation, owner Jason Brauner to 27. Participating establishments must offer a minimum of 50 Bourbons and says. “It was one of the first buildings on use Bourbon as an ingredient in some menu items. Ride along as we visit them Frankfort Avenue,” he said. “Just up the all, and discover how the spirit moves them — behind the bar and in the kitchen. road was the toll house where you would pay the toll to go on up Frankfort Avenue.” The tolls are history, but Bourbons Bistro still serves as a popular stop for thirsty travelers on the Urban Bourbon Trail. It was, in fact, one of the seven charter members. But when Brauner and John Morrison opened the Bistro in the circa 1877 building at 2255 Frankfor t Ave. in 2005, the huge wave of interest in Bourbon that continues to build today wasn’t even a ripple. What made them think a place touting 130-plus Bourbons would succeed? “I was a big fan of Bourbon. I kind of grew up around it. My great-aunts and -uncles would drink Bourbon while they played cards and what have you,” Brauner said. “I thought it was under-marketed. I did some research and found that all of the world’s Bourbon came from within 50 miles of Louisville, and I thought, ‘what a great concept: How can you go wrong when you have the backdrop of this great Kentucky product?’ It was a way to showcase our state. A lot of people think we may be barefoot with overalls on, but I think Bourbon is more sophisticated even locals, but tourists who would come in and seek it out. We were than Scotch. You just have to get into it and learn about it.” Fittingly, the front of the restaurant is dominated by the out to educate the world about Bourbon, and what better way to handsome dark-wood bar, which holds an impressive inventory of do it than with the Urban Bourbon Trail?” Bourbons Bistro’s servers are as well-versed in Bourbon as a Bourbons. The main dining room is simple and elegant, with vintage photos of distilleries dressing the exposed-brick walls. A good sommelier is in wine and can recommend the perfect brand patio with a fireplace allows seasonal outdoor dining, and the to accompany your dinner, or suggest a flight tailored to your flavor restaurant recently took over the entire building, which created preferences. Over the years, Brauner has seen his customer base grow space for two new event rooms, one with a seating capacity of 60 and change. “A ton of people are getting into Bourbon every day. and the other, 30. Joining the Urban Bourbon Trail when it launched in 2008 was I think the face of Bourbon is growing, and it’s growing younger. an easy decision, Brauner said; the Trail was a natural fit for a A lot more people are interested in it.” While Bourbons Bistro has continued to maintain a list of at restaurant intent on spreading the word about Bourbon. “One of our first slogans was, ‘Bringing Bourbon back a sip at a time.’ The least 130 brands, Brauner laments the current obsession with how Urban Bourbon Trail gave us the power of new guests — not just many Bourbons a bar has as some sort of measuring stick of 26 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com


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quality. “When we opened, we wanted every Bourbon we could get our hands on; I mean, that was the name: Bourbons Bistro. But now, people are too hung up on ‘How many do you have?’ It ebbs and flows, because we actually open them and sell them. When we get limitededition Bourbons in, we don’t just keep them on the shelf.” The Bourbons Bistro food menu has recently been revised by new Head Chef Jeff Bridges, formerly of Hillbilly Tea and Jack Fry’s, who has been at Bourbons Bistro for just about a year. He replaced Chef Michael Crouch, who left to open Bistro 1860 in January. New dishes include the grilled beets ($18), with dinosaur kale, glazed carrots, Catalan picada sauce and tobacco onions; the Maple Leaf Farms duck burger ($16; add pork belly or a fried egg for an up charge), served on brioche with herb goat cheese, caramelized onions, truffle aioli and house-cut fries tossed with herbs and garlic; and a lobster bruschetta appetizer ($13), with Maine lobster, shallots, roasted tomato, pepperoncini, capers, garlic aioli, parmesan, basil and grilled French bread. Items featuring Bourbon include the house-cured Berkshire pork belly with Bourbon glaze ($10 appetizer portion; $18 entrée), and the Bourbon bread pudding ($8), with toasted meringue, cherries and a Bourbon caramel sauce. (opposite) House-cured Berkshire pork belly with a Bourbon glaze, sweet corn, Fresno peppers and arugula pesto. (top) Co-owners Jason Brauner (left) and John Morrison. (right) Grilled beets with roasted broccoli, smoked cauliflower and crispy dinosaur kale. (bottom, L-R) The well-stocked bar includes over 130 Bourbons; duck breast with wild mushrooms, braised celery, haricot vert and ricotta salata; a rare bottle of Jim Beam Distiller’s Masterpiece.


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The Bistro held regular multi-course Bourbon dinners featuring a rotating roster of brands for years. Brauner estimates they did at least 75 of them. That concept has been put on hiatus for now while the owners figure out how to reinvent them. In the meantime, on Sept. 28 Bourbons Bistro began serving a Bourbon-flavored brunch on Saturdays and Sundays, featuring dishes such as Bourbon French toast with toasted pecans, apple-smoked bacon and Bourbon maple syrup ($11). If the first one was any indication, they will be successful. “One of our first tables was a 20-top, and they ordered 15 flights,” Brauner said. “It was a good brunch morning!” There’s no doubt that Bourbon is hot. The Urban Bourbon Trail has almost four times as many stops as it did in 2008, and even places not on the trail are touting the fact that they have “more than 50 Bourbons!” Asked whether he worries that it’s a craze that will fade, Bourbon pioneer Brauner said he’s confident the spirit is here to stay. “I think people just needed to realize what they had in front of them. I don’t think people realized what a great, wonderful product it is. It is one of Kentucky’s earliest and ‘greenest’ products.” Distilleries have traditionally sold the stillage — the grain left after distillation — to local farmers as feed for hogs and cattle, for example. By law, the charred, white oak barrels can be used only once to age Bourbon, but they are reused in many other ways: to age Scotch, beer, even coffee beans; to make planters and furniture; and, when ground into chips, to smoke meat. Bourbon “is a sustainable industry,” Brauner said. “I don’t think it’s going to go away.”

2255 Frankfort Ave. | (502) 894-8838


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Number of Bourbons: Minimum of 130 Most popular Bourbons: Woodford Reserve, Maker’s Mark. “A lot of people branch out with the education we give them on the brands you don’t see very often, hidden jewels like Ancient Age, Old Granddad 114 and Rare Breed 108,” Brauner said. Priciest shots: Jim Beam Distiller’s Masterpiece ($250 per shot). “It’s not the best whiskey in the house; it’s just that it’s so limited. You can’t find it anymore.” Bourbon flights: Several set flights are offered ($10 to $20 for three 1-ounce pours); the Single Barrel (Elmer T. Lee, Four Roses and Evan Williams) is one of the most popular. Customers can also build their own flights (prices vary). Signature Bourbon cocktails: Kentucky Champagne; Maple Bacon Old Fashioned (see recipes below)

Kentucky Champagne 2 ounces Maker’s Mark ½ ounce Triple Sec Fill rest of glass with apple cider. Add a splash of soda and garnish with an apple slice.

Maple Bacon Old Fashioned Muddle orange and cherry in the bottom of an Old Fashioned glass. Fill glass with ice and add: 1 teaspoon maple syrup 2 ounces bacon-infused Bourbon 2 dashes of black walnut bitters Splash of water Stir and serve. (opposite, from top) Bourbon French toast with toasted pecans, applewood smoked bacon and Bourbon maple syrup; a pair of images of the main dining room; lobster bruschetta served with a Maple Bacon Old Fashioned; a Bourbon flight. (top right) Kentucky Champagne. (bottom right) Executive Chef Jeff Bridges. www.facebook.com/foodanddine 29


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BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

CHEF NICK SULLIVAN Age: 30 Current Restaurant: Executive Chef, 610 Magnolia Previous Restaurants: Corbett’s; Alinea in Chicago Neighborhood (current): Lyndon Hometown: Jackson, Tennessee Significant other: Single Favorite Hobbies: Surfing, motorcycles, and water sports Favorite Cookbook: Essential Cuisine by Michel Bras Favorite Kitchen Gadget: Vita-Prep (the highend, turbo-charged blender)

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QA &

Nick Sullivan is the Executive Chef at 610 Magnolia, where he runs day-to-day operations for celebrity chef Edward Lee, a former Top Chef contestant. Sullivan’s cooking, which combines Southern food with ingredients and techniques from around the world, is beginning to earn him accolades of his own. In 2012, on-line restaurant review aggregator Gayot.com named him one of the “Top 5 Rising Chefs in the U.S.” Food & Dining sat down with Sullivan for an in-depth discussion about the Louisville dining scene, his advice for amateur chefs, and where he sees himself in the future.

What do you do for fun? I like to read books and food publications. Outside of that I like hanging out with my friends. I’m also active in my church.

What’s your greatest strength in the kitchen? I’m very meticulous; very detail-oriented. I like the finer details. What’s your downfall? Just that. I get so meticulous and so caughtup in garnish work or some detail that it keeps me from focusing on the bigger picture. What is your first food memory? The first thing that comes to mind are the holidays. Christmas was big for me. I liked how the whole family got together. I would sit on the countertop while they prepared the meal, right in the middle of it. That memory stands out more than any.

(pictured below, from left) Olive oil poached halibut and summer ratatouille with fresh garbanzo beans, morel mushrooms, tomato jam, lemon cream and truffles. Fruits de mer: chilled shrimp, mussels, clams and escargot served with shaved fennel, tarragon gelée, and herb salad with a Pernod vinaigrette. Peas and pork: English peas, sugar snap peas and snow peas with seared pork belly, shallots, hearts of palm, cucumber and buttermilk.

Who has influenced your cooking the most? It’s between my mother and my Aunt Jean. Thanksgiving and Christmas — that’s when we’d have — you call it dressing here, but we called it stuffing. We’d have chicken and stuffing. That was one of my favorite things about the holiday meals. Who are your favorite chefs? I’ve got kind of a little list of them: Michel Bras at Aubrac in France; Thomas Keller at the French Laundr y in California; and Grant Achatz at Alinea in Chicago. Why did you become a chef? When I was 18, a senior in high school, we had a snow day. A couple of buddies and I decided to make breakfast. I really liked the way we worked together. That was the first time I ever thought about cooking for a living. Now, I like the creativity. I like the challenge of pushing boundaries.

Fill in the blank: If I weren’t a chef, I’d be … Dead. Honestly, I can’t think of anything else I’d like to do. Best cooking tip for a novice? Don’t focus so much on instructions. Instructions are basically a guideline, something to go by. I would encourage people to cook from their hear t. If something looks like it is burning, it is burning. Slow it down. Once you start cooking from the heart, I really believe you start enjoying food more. What elements separate an everyday dish from something a diner might savor years later? If you can tap into a diner’s emotions. If you can make a dish that reminds them of a childhood memory or a special day. Once you start tapping into that cerebral (See SULLIVAN, page 32)


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QA SULLIVAN

&

(continued from page 31)

emotion, that dish is going to live with them a long, long time.

If you could cook a meal for anyone, who would it be and what would you cook? Marco Pierre White. He was the original rock star chef. He got three Michelin stars when he was 24 years old. He was the first English chef to be awarded three stars. Best thing you’ve ever cooked? What I’m cooking right now!

Your last food-related “wow moment” was …? Last week I made a foie gras cake and turned it into a crouton and it kind of blew my mind. It was an experiment that I ended up putting on the menu. I was very happy. The last time you were scared in a kitchen, or by a dining experience, was …? I’m scared every day! What music was playing in the kitchen last night? I like to run a quiet kitchen. When the whole staff is there working, I run a quiet kitchen. It’s strictly business. What was the last book you read? Essential Cuisine by Michel Bras. It’s an older book, but his philosophy on food is really beautiful. He was doing things 10, 15 years ago that would still seem avantgarde today. He cooks from his surroundings and he does things that you can reflect on to this day. Are there any culinary trends you are wild about right now? I think something that is going on right now is the Latino, kind of Mexican influence. But, it’s not really my style. Any trends you consider overrated? People who say they have a dietary restric tion when they don’t. It’s really a preference instead. If you are gluten-free, you’re gluten-free, period. If you can’t have it, we’ll make concessions. But don’t jump on the bandwagon. What cooking skill required in your kitchen is the most difficult to master? Discipline. There is a reason for everything.

32 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com


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A

&

There is a reason why we put towels in a container. There is a reason why we label and date everything.There is a reason why I carry tweezers in my coat. It’s because ever y single thing should be thought through and executed to the best of your ability. If you had to work for one chef in the world, who would it be? Marco Pierre White. It’s not current-day Marco Pierre White. It’s old-school Marco Pierre White. When he was at the helm.

Other than your own restaurant, what’s the first place you’d take an out-oftowner? I most recently ate at La Coop. That was a great experience. Bobby Benjamin is a great guy and it’s straightforward good food. What’s in your fridge at home? Leftovers. I usually have a bare refrigerator. It’s mostly condiments: jams, mustard. I will have some lunch meat. Right now I’ve got some barbecued chicken. Is there anything in that home fridge you’d rather not admit to having? Hot Pockets. Chicken and broccoli Hot Pockets. What food is your guilty pleasure? Everybody that knows me is going to laugh at this: it’s hot wings. Love me some hot wings! I like spicy food. Is there a food you can’t bring yourself to eat? I’m not a huge fan of offal which is the offcuts of some meat: liver, kidney, heart — stuff like that. I just don’t work with them that much. But I love foie gras. Your favorite quick meal to prepare at home? I don’t cook at home like I do at the restaurant. I would probably fix some nice roasted potatoes, whatever seasonal vegetables, and fire-up the grill and throw on a chicken breast or some meat. Maybe even some fish, and call it a night. Most memorable meal? My most memorable meal was at Alinea (in Chicago). I was so impressed that I staged [apprenticed] there for a week.

Kitchen tool(s) you cannot live without? Vitamix blender — specifically the VitaPrep. It’s a high-speed blender. It is one of the biggest workhorses in our kitchen. Kitchen tool the home chef doesn’t know about but should? I think a Vitamix product. It’s an investment, but it is a great investment. Home blenders are not able to mix like a Vitamix. Especially when you’re talking about soups or purées. Do you have a go-to farmers market and what do you usually shop for there? I’ll be honest, I haven’t been to a farmer’s market this year. But we do have a lot of relationships with farmers. We deal with RAPP, which is the Refugee Agriculture Par tner Program; Fox Hollow Farms; Ambrosia Farms for tomatoes; River Crest Farm for rabbits. Are there any ethnic markets that you frequent? Yes. It’s simply called the Oriental Supermarket. It’s on Gilmore off Preston. Great selection of hard-to-find items and it’s easy to navigate. Give us one reason Louisville should be considered a culinary destination for traveling foodies? Our food scene is exploding right now. It’s largely due to us as chefs challenging our selves, and the diners being supportive of that. It is a team effort on the part of the diners and the chefs. If you had a time machine, what would be your first stop in culinary history? I would love to see back in the days when they didn’t have the modern technology, like modern ovens. I’d like to see how they cooked over open fires. I’d also like to see when the brigade system came around with Auguste Escoffier in the early 1900s. Iron Chef Louisville: Who do you not want to battle? Y’all are setting me up for something here! I would challenge anyone. That’s not saying I’m better than anybody by any means. I’m just going to cook the way I’m going to cook, and that’s about it. F&D

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2013 33


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

BY TIM AND LORI LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY


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ex I can I esta M F

Here’s a party idea perfect for when the weather begins to chill. Take a trip to Mexico without ever leaving your home. Here are a few easy recipes that are delicious, filling and very affordable. Did we say affordable? For less than dinner out for two, we have a party menu that could easily feed six. So invite over your friends and family for a Mexican Fiesta. Start your party with a Sweet Heat cocktail, which features one of the bestselling tequilas in Mexico and adds a little heat with jalapeño peppers and a little sweet-tartness with lemonade and honey. Keep the tequila available because we are going to use it in a colorful corn dish that can be a side or an appetizer served with chips. Next, Grilled Guacamole is unlike any guacamole you have had in the past. Our Chicken Tacos are the easiest ones you will ever make because we use an already cooked rotisserie chicken, then add additional flavors. For dessert we have Apple Pie Enchiladas — now that’s a party. ¡Salud!


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Grilled Guacamole SERVES 4 – 6

4 avocados, halved, pits removed Olive oil ½ lime, juiced Kosher salt Fresh ground black pepper ¼ cup red onion, peeled and finely chopped (optional) 2 tablespoons cilantro, thick stems removed and leaves finely chopped (optional) Dash of hot sauce (optional) Tortilla chips Heat a gas or charcoal grill to medium heat. Lightly brush each avocado half with oil. Grill, cut-side-down, until marks appear and the avocados are heated through, about 5 minutes. Take off the grill and let cool slightly. Then scoop out the insides into a bowl and mash with a fork. Stir in the lime juice and salt and pepper to taste. Add onion, cilantro and hot sauce, if you wish. Serve immediately with chips.

Corn with Tequila Lime Dressing SERVES 4 – 6

4 cups cooked corn kernels, fresh or frozen 1 cup red bell pepper, diced For the dressing: 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon tequila 1 tablespoon agave nectar 1 lime, juiced 1 clove garlic, minced ¼ teaspoon Kosher salt ¼ teaspoon black pepper 2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, finely chopped In a medium-size bowl, combine the corn and red pepper. In another bowl, whisk together the olive oil, tequila, agave nectar, lime juice, garlic, salt, and pepper. Pour the dressing over the corn mixture. Stir in the cilantro. Taste and adjust the seasonings as needed. Cover and chill for 1 hour.

Tequila Beans SERVES 4 – 6

4 ¼ 3 1 1 ½ ¼ 1 ½ ½ ¼

2

thick slices bacon cup white onion, diced cloves garlic, minced teaspoon dried oregano teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon ground coriander cup tequila 15-ounce can each black beans and pinto beans, rinsed and drained cup low-sodium chicken broth lime, juiced cup fresh cilantro, chopped Kosher salt Black pepper green onions, chopped, for garnish

In a medium skillet, cook the bacon until crisp, then crumble and set aside. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the bacon drippings and return the pan to medium-high heat. Add the onion and sauté until softened, 34 minutes. Add the garlic, oregano, cumin, and coriander. Sauté for 1 minute, then deglaze the pan with tequila and reduce until evaporated. Stir in the beans, broth and most of the crumbled bacon, reserving some for garnish. Bring to a simmer and reduce heat to medium-low. Remove 2 cups of the beans and purée them in a blender. Add them back into the pan and stir in the lime juice and cilantro. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with green onions and the remaining crumbled bacon.


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Chicken Tacos SERVES 4 – 6

4 cups chicken, cooked, shredded 1½ cups salsa In a medium-size bowl, combine the chicken and salsa. Note: Save time by using store-bought rotisserie chicken. Build-Your-Own with: Flour tortillas Pico de gallo Taco shells Green onions Shredded lettuce Jalapeños Shredded cheese Sour cream

Sweet Heat In a shaker with ice, add: 1½ ounces el Jimador Reposado tequila 3 ¼-inch slices jalapeño pepper, seeds and membranes removed 1 ounce Honey Syrup (recipe below) 3 ounces lemonade Shake and strain into a cocktail glass rimmed with Sweet Heat Spice. Garnish with a slice of jalapeño.

Apple Cinnamon Enchiladas SERVES 6

2 teaspoons sugar ½ teaspoon cinnamon 1 20-ounce can apple pie filling (or use cherry or peach pie filling instead) 6 6-inch flour tortillas 2 tablespoons butter, melted Caramel syrup Whipped cream or ice cream, optional Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a small bowl, combine the sugar and cinnamon. Spoon the pie filling evenly onto the center of each tortilla. Roll tortillas and place seam side down on a lightly greased baking pan. Brush each roll with melted butter and bake for 20 minutes. Sprinkle with the cinnamon-sugar mixture and let cool, slightly. Cut each roll in half, drizzle with caramel syrup, and serve with ice cream or whipped cream, if desired.

Sweet Heat Spice: In a small bowl, mix one part chili powder, one part sugar and one-half part Kosher salt. Rub lime around the rim of a cocktail glass and dip it into the spice mixture. Honey Syrup: In a small saucepan, over medium heat, combine one part honey and one part water. Simmer for 5 minutes, stirring until well combined. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2013 37


pick three

P

BY KATY YOCOM | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

3

ick

Think of “deli” and your mind might go to the New York classics — guys behind a meat counter piling pastrami onto marbled rye. For this installment of Pick Three, we visited three local delis that do things their own way. At Heitzman Traditional Bakery & Deli, a fourth-generation member of the Heitzman family fills the deli case with recipes her mom developed in the 1950s. Main Street Café, less than two years old, has already reinvented itself to stay ahead of the curve in its up-and-coming neighborhood. And Lotsa Pasta reveals its secret to staying relevant when you can buy your prosciutto at the chain grocery stores.

Heitzman’s — Going strong after four generations It all started in 1891, when her great-granddad, Jacob Heitzman, opened Heitzman’s Bakery. In 1924, her grandfather, Charles, took over. In 1954, her parents took the helm and added a catering division. Fifteen years ago, Marguerite Schadt — the youngest member of the fourth generation of Heitzmans — and her husband, Dan, bought the family business and made it their own. Whether she’s whipping up specialty salads, ringing up a lunch order or helping a couple plan a wedding reception, it’s clear that Schadt is in her element at Heitzman Traditional Bakery & Deli, located in a strip mall on Shelbyville Road. “I’ve been in it” — meaning the family business — “since I was itty bitty,” she says, so she’s comfortable with all of it, even the days that consistently begin before sunrise. Dan is at work by 4:00 a.m., handling the baking; she’s in charge of the deli and catering, opening for breakfast at 6:00. Although they have a staff of 18, Schadt herself does a lot of the cooking, working from recipes her grandmother and mother developed in the 1950s. The deli is known for its chicken and dumpling soup, among other specialties. “The guys love the crab cakes,” which sell for $6.99. And “a lot of the ladies like something not as heavy” and favor salads such as the Briar Club ($6.99), made with chicken strips, mandarin oranges and poppy-seed dressing. “Everything is made from scratch right here, every day,” Schadt says. “It’s the traditions. We just try to make it better.” Traditions or no, the deli has to keep pace with the times. Right now, gluten-free items are in high demand. Schadt takes it in stride, noting that it’s easy enough to accommodate special needs “because everything’s made by hand.”


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Heitzman Traditional Bakery & Deli

The store’s 100seat dining room attr acts groups looking for good, affordable food in a casual setting. (A breakfast of two 9426 eggs, meat and Shelbyville Rd. toast costs $5.85.) Take-away and (502) delivery make up a 426.7736 large part of the business. But the synergy between bakery and deli is most obvious when it comes to catering — especially catering weddings. The store’s 40-seat party room is great for showers. For the big day itself, Heitzman can cater the reception with hot food and heavy appetizers and provide the cake as well. “It’s a one-stop shop,” Schadt says, noting that catering has grown 80 percent in the past six years. “The name recognition helps. And word of mouth.” The shop is all about tradition, but still, Schadt is looking to the future, where she sees room for even more growth. “We want to own our own building,” she says. “We’d love to have a catering hall and a retail store, and move out of the strip mall. That would be the ultimate dream.” (opposite, top) Carrying-on the Heitzman tradition: Dan, Matthew and Marguerite Schadt. (top, L-R) Heitzman club sandwich; breakfast platter; chicken pot pie; view of the dining room. (right) View of the deli. (bottom row, L-R from opposite) Strawberry whipped cream cake; chocolate chip cannolis; house-made glazed doughnuts; assorted New York style bagels; honey glazed pit ham; crab cake sandwich.


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Main Street Café 217 E. Main St. (502) 992.8080

Keeping Ahead of the Curve — New-school deli and café delivers The sign outside says Main Street Deli, but inside and on the menu, the name is Main Street Café. That discrepancy is a sign — literally — that this East Main dining spot is evolving along with its neighborhood. “We were one of the first down here on Main, but things are coming to Main Street now,” says Chef Laurence Agnew, mentioning the soon-tobe-constructed Ice House Lofts as an example. “In the years to come, you’ll see more restaurants down here. Kind of that NuLu feel.” The establishment opened unassumingly in March 2012 in the Ice House as a walk-up deli counter, but within six months, the concept changed. The first step was to shape it into a café with lunchtime table service, open seven days a week. Next came breakfast, served daily and offered all day Saturday and Sunday. By late summer 2013, they’d gotten their liquor license, opened a bar, and as of October were moving toward evening service on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Clearly, there’s a vision at work here, and a zeal for reinvention. Agnew, a 34-year-old Louisiana native, manages it all using skills he picked up during his years in the hotel restaurant business. In addition to his role as chef for the café, he’s the man in charge of the kitchen at Crushed Ice Events, the catering arm of the Ice House. After the more corporate hotel world, this new dual role is “a nice balance. I enjoy this more because I get to cook more. I get to be in the kitchen, which is where it counts.” The evening menu Agnew is developing features


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smaller plates and boutique wines. A new downstairs space will add a cellar feel, cozier than the current window and outdoor seating. As far as dinner, “we really want it to be approachable and fun,” Agnew says. “Refined but relaxed. We’re not trying to get too chef-y with it.” High on the dinner menu is an octopus pastrami, brined, crusted in black peppercorn and coriander, and smoked on the café’s smoker. Octopus pastrami may sound exotic, but it’s a natural extension of what Agnew is already doing with his lunch service, and it’s pure deli at heart. He makes his own cured meats, including corned beef, pastrami, and two types of bacon (savory — which is cured with star anise, black pepper and coriander — and sorghum). “That’s the backbone of our menu,” he says. The meats are available on sandwiches, as a platter, or by the pound. Even in their lunchtime iterations, meats and other items are presented creatively. The B.A.T.S. sandwich ($8.50) — named for its Main Street neighbor, the Louisville Bats — includes savory bacon, smashed avocado, tomato, and Serrano pickles on sourdough. The keep-it-interesting approach carries through even to the grilled cheese, a top seller at $7.75. It’s creatively constructed with provolone, mozzarella, and two house-made condiments — basil pesto and tomato jam — on sourdough. “Our philosophy is to stay seasonal; to pay attention to the small details,” Agnew says. The customer base tends to be downtown professionals during the week; on the weekends, it’s Highlanders and East Enders looking for a new breakfast spot. Weekday or weekend, Agnew theorizes, what brings customers back is “great food, great service, and having a little more of an interesting menu. They’ll think: ‘Oh! Next time I’ll try that.’ ” (opposite from top) The Main Street Café crew: (L-R) Sous Chef Jeffrey Armstrong, Manager Drucilla Deans, Sous Chef Timothy Haller, and Executive Chef Laurence Agnew; a Sweet Tea Sour; fruit and nut salad of romaine lettuce, mandarin oranges, berries, cucumbers, Bourbon-smoked pecans, and goat cheese with a citrus vinaigrette; a view of the bar; smokey carrot, tomato and chipotle soup; house-made smoked pastrami with jalapeño pimento cheese and garlic mayo on rye; a view of the lounge; sorghum fried chicken biscuit; Main Street “Smokin” Mary. (top right) The B.A.T.S. — house-made savory bacon, smashed avocado and tomato on sourdough. (left) Main Street’s house-cured bacon. facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2013 41


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Lotsa Pasta 3717 Lexington Rd. (502) 896.6361

Lotsa Pasta — Finding new ways to keep the customers coming in Back in the 1980s, when Lotsa Pasta was in its infancy, co-owner John Hale would travel to Chicago, New Orleans, New York, to scope out the aisles of stores like Balducci’s. He’d investigate the shelves, check out the sandwiches being handed across the deli counter, and do what the best entrepreneurs and ar tists do: He’d steal ideas. That strategy was how Lotsa Pasta came to be the first in Louisville to carry exotic items like pesto, pine nuts, kalamata olives. That was how it came to offer a muffaletta sandwich, based on the fabled version at Central Grocery in New Orleans. Ah, the good old days. Or bad old days, depending on your perspective. (As a food enthu si ast, maybe you’re glad you can find kalamata olives all over town.) That was before Whole Foods came to Louisville, before Boar’s Head and Murray’s Cheese came to Kroger. “It used to be 80 percent of what we carried, you couldn’t find anywhere else in town,” Hale says. “Now it’s 20 percent.” That kind of progress could kill a specialty store. But John and co-owner Vicki Hale figured out how to adapt. (That’s true of their personal story as well. The two married shor tly after opening the store in 1982; they’ve been divorced nine years now, but their business partnership is going strong.) About a decade ago, when it became clear they were losing their corner on the market for exotic imports, Lotsa Pasta began branding its own line of goods: Chicken alfredo. Tiramisu. Soups. Italian ices. Calzones. Gourmet


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pizzas. Spreads and dips. The new line of homemades made the store, once again, the place you have to go to get the exact item you want. The house-made items — high-quality convenience foods — represent a “huge amount” of the business, says Vicki Hale. “You work your butt off all day, you don’t have time to go home and prepare a dinner, but you want your family to have something good. We fill that need.” But it’s the deli you see first when you enter the store. First there’s a knowledgeably curated cheese selection. Then there’s 24 feet of deli case, housing everything from pasta salads (made inhouse, of course) to an array of olives from an importer in Brooklyn, to marinated mushrooms from Sidari’s Italian Foods in Cleveland. The salami and prosciutto come from Volpi Italian Meats. For sandwiches, they proudly offer Boar’s Head — “but people don’t come in here to buy Boar’s Head,” Hale says. “They come in here for the specialty salamis and prosciutto.” At one side of the store is the café, a mildly puzzling little area. It looks like a place to order food (and they do sell coffee and pastry in the mornings), but in reality, the café serves mainly as a seating area where customers can enjoy the sandwiches they ordered at the deli counter. “People will meet there for lunch, or kids come in to do their homework, or a language class [meets there],” Vicki Hale says. “It’s pretty cool.” House-made prepared foods, a seating area a la big-city deli, and unprecedented competition. It’s a different world for Lotsa Pasta, but customers keep coming in. “We’ve got the best customers,” Vicki says. “[They’re] still very committed to shopping local,” whether they’re looking for items made right in the store or imported from an ocean away. F&D (opposite, from top) One of the 20 varieties of house-made breads available daily; Co-owner John Hale; chicken and prosciutto panini with fontina, house-made sundried tomato pesto and spinach leaves; a view of the café; roast beef and Colby with chipotle chicken pasta salad; soup of the day — minestrone; a New Orleans classic — the Muffaletta. (top, L-R) The deli carries an impressive 100+ varieties of cheese; living up to their name, Lotsa Pasta offers as many as 40 house-made pastas. (above) One of the many pasta presses. (left) Order a sandwich, fresh cut meats or house-made salads at the deli counter. www.facebook.com/foodanddine 43


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46-49_Guide Index_win13_Layout 1 10/29/13 5:45 PM Page 46

dining guide Cuisine Style African..............................71 Asian/Chinese...................71 Asian/Filipino ....................72 Asian/Japanese ................72 Asian/Korean ....................74 Asian/Mongolian ...............74 Asian/Thai ........................74 Asian/Vietnamese .............74 Bar & Grill .........................69 Barbecue ..........................68 Bistro/Contemporary.........54 Cafés................................56

Cafeterias .........................64 Cajun/Creole.....................77 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin .....77 Casual Dining ...................60 Coffee/Tea House..............79 Desserts/Bakery ...............80 Entertainment Dining ........64 European/Bosnian.............75 European/French ..............75 European/German.............75 European/Irish ..................75 European/Italian................76 European/Spanish.............76

Fine Dining .......................50 Home Style/Southern ........63 Indian ...............................76 Mexican............................78 Microbreweries.................71 Middle Eastern..................77 Pizza.................................64 Sandwich/Deli ..................66 Seafood ............................58 Southwest/Tex Mex...........79 Steakhouse.......................59 Upscale Casual .................51

Area Maps begin on page 82 Alphabetical Index RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

2 Dips & A Shake 211 Clover Lane 30 Red Sports Saloon 321 Deli 60 West Bistro 610 Magnolia A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China A.J.’s Gyro Café Abyssinia Achille’s Pizza Addis Grill Adobo Mexican Restaurant Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café Adrienne’s Italian Against The Grain Brewery Al Nuur Al Watan Aladdin’s Café Alley Cat Café Amici Amshoff’s Fish Inn Again Amy Z’s Anchorage Café Angilo’s Pizza Angio’s Restaurant Annie Cafe Annie May’s Sweets Café Annie’s Pizza Ann’s by the River Another Place Anselmo’s Italian Bistro Apocalypse Brew Works Applebee’s Arata Sushi Argo Sons Coffee Arni’s Pizza Arno’s Pizza Aroma Café Asahi Japanese Asian Buffet Asian Moon Asiatique Aspen Creek Restaurant Atlantic No. 5 Atrium Café Atypical Man BBQ August Moon Austin’s BD’s Mongolian Grill B3Q BBQ Baby D’s Bagels & Deli Backyard Burger The Bakery Banh Mi Hero Bank Street Brewhouse Barbara Lee’s Kitchen The Bard’s Town Basa Modern Vietnamese 46 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com

RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS. MAP #

80 Desserts/Bakery 1 50 Fine Dining 3 69 Bar & Grill 11 66 Sandwich/Deli 1 51 Upscale Casual 3 50 Fine Dining 13 60 Casual Dining 14, 16 71 Asian/Chinese 1 77 Middle Eastern 14 71 African 1 64 Pizza 16 71 African 1 78 Mexican 11 80 Desserts/Bakery 16 76 European/Italian 16 71 Microbreweries 1 71 African 13 77 Middle Eastern 4 77 Middle Eastern 14 56 Cafés 5 76 European/Italian 13 58 Seafood 11 69 Bar & Grill 5 56 Cafés 5 64 Pizza 13 64 Pizza 4 74 Asian/Vietnamese 13 80 Desserts/Bakery 3 64 Pizza 1, 12 64 Cafeterias 16 66 Sandwich/Deli 1 76 European/Italian 2 71 Microbreweries 2 60 Casual Dining [6] 72 Asian/Japanese 10 79 Coffee/Tea House 6 64 Pizza 14 64 Pizza 4 56 Cafés 14 72 Asian/Japanese 3 71 Asian/Chinese 4, 14 71 Asian/Chinese 4 51 Upscale Casual 2 60 Casual Dining 11 56 Cafés 1 54 Bistro/Contemporary 5 68 Barbecue 3 71 Asian/Chinese 2 51 Upscale Casual 7 74 Asian/Mongolian 6 68 Barbecue 14 66 Sandwich/Deli 2 66 Sandwich/Deli 6 80 Desserts/Bakery 4 74 Asian/Vietnamese 2 71 Microbreweries 14 63 Home Style/Southern 2 64 Entertainment Dining 2 51 Upscale Casual 2

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

Baxter’s 942 Bar & Grill 69 Bar & Grill 2 Bazos Mexican Grill 78 Mexican 3, 6 Bean Street Coffee Co. 79 Coffee/Tea House 14 Bearno’s Pizza 64 Pizza [12] Beef O’Brady’s 69 Bar & Grill 5, 12, 13, 14 Beijing Grill & Sushi Bar 72 Asian/Japanese 14 Bela’s Café 71 African 13 Bendoya Sushi Bar 73 Asian/Japanese 1 Benito’s Burritos 79 Southwest/Tex Mex 5 Big Al’s Beeritaville 69 Bar & Grill 2 Big Four Burgers + Beer 60 Casual Dining 14 Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 63 Home Style/Southern 1 Bistro 1860 Wine Bar 54 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bistro 301 54 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro 42 76 European/Italian 10 Bistro Le Relais 75 European/French 4 The Bistro 64 Cafeterias 3 BJ’s Restaurant & Brewhouse 60 Casual Dining 5 Blackstone Grille 51 Upscale Casual 10 Bloom’s Lunch Café 56 Cafés 3 BLU Mediterranean Grille 51 Upscale Casual 1 Blue Dog Bakery 57 Cafés 2 Blue Horse Café 61 Casual Dining 13 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 71 Microbreweries 1, 3 Bluegrass Burgers 61 Casual Dining 3 Bluegrass Café 57 Cafés 2 Boardwalk Fresh Burgers 66 Sandwich/Deli 16 Bombay Grill 76 Indian 5 Bonefish Grill 58 Seafood 5 Bonnie & Clyde’s Pizza 64 Pizza 12 Boombozz Famous Pizza 64 Pizza 3 Boombozz Pizza & Taphouse 64 Pizza 2, 5, 15 Boombozz Pizza Bistro 64 Pizza 6 Boomer’s Café 57 Cafés 1 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 68 Barbecue 11, 13 Borromeo’s Pizza 64 Pizza 13 Bosna-Mak 75 European/Bosnian 4 Bourbons Bistro 54 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Brandon’s BBQ & Pizza 68 Barbecue 5 Brasserie Provence 75 European/French 5 Bravo! 51 Upscale Casual 3 Breadworks 80 Desserts/Bakery 2, 5, 7 The Brewery 69 Bar & Grill 2 Brian’s Deli 66 Sandwich/Deli 1 Brickhouse Tavern & Tap 61 Casual Dining 6 Bristol Bar & Grille 51 Upscale Casual 1,2,5,10,13,16 Brix Wine Bar 54 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 69 Bar & Grill 5 Bruegger’s Bagels 66 Sandwich/Deli 3 Buca Di Beppo 76 European/Italian 6 Buckhead Mountain Grill 61 Casual Dining 4, 16 Buck’s 50 Fine Dining 13 Bud’s Tavern & Barbecue 69 Bar & Grill 12 Buffalo Wild Wings 69 Bar & Grill 2,3,5,6,8,12,15 Bungalow Joe’s 69 Bar & Grill 11 Bunz Restaurant 61 Casual Dining 2 Burger Boy 66 Sandwich/Deli 13 Burning Bush Grille 77 Middle Eastern 10 Butcher’s Best 66 Sandwich/Deli 10


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RESTAURANT

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Café 27 Café 360 Café Aroma Café At Main Street Café Fraiche Café Lou Lou Café Magnolia Café Mimosa Café Montagu Café Thuy Van Caffe Classico Cake Flour California Pizza Kitchen Captain’s Quarters Cardinal Hall of Fame Café Carrabba’s Italian Grille Casa Fiesta Cast Iron Steakhouse Cat Box Deli Cattleman’s Roadhouse Caviar Japanese Restaurant Cellar Door Chocolates Champions Grill Champions Sports Bar Charim Korean Restaurant Charlestown Pizza Co. Charlestown Train Station Charr’d Bourbon Kitchen Check’s Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar’s Casual Café Cheer King Star The Cheesecake Factory Cheezy’s Pizza Chef Maria’s Greek Deli Chez Seneba African The Chicken House Chicken King Chili’s China 1 China Buffet China Café China Castle China Coast China Garden China Inn China King China Taste Chinese Chef Chinese Express Chipotle Mexican Grill Chocolate Martini Bar Choi’s Asian Food Market Chong Garden Chopshop Salads Chopsticks Chopsticks House Chung King Chuy’s City Café Clarksville Seafood Clay Oven Clifton’s Pizza Clucker’s Wings Coach Lamp Coals Artisan Pizza Coffee Crossing Come Back Inn The Comfy Cow Copper Cupcake Corbett’s ‘an American place’ Corner Café Cottage Café Cottage Inn Crave Café & Catering Cravings a la Carte Creekside Outpost & Café Cricket’s Café Crystal Chinese Cuban Flavor Culver’s Cumberland Brews Cunningham’s The Cupcake Shoppe D’Nalley’s Restaurant Daisy Mae’s Dakshin Indian Restaurant DaLat’s Gateaux & Bakery Dancing Sushi Danish Express Pastries Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza Dave & Peg’s Copper Kettle Day’s Espresso De La Torre’s Decca Deckers Grilled Sandwiches Del Frisco’s Derby Café Derby Dinner Playhouse Desserts By Helen Devino’s Diamond Pub & Billiards Difabio’s Casapela DiOrio’s Pizza & Pub Dish On Market Ditto’s Grill Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Doc Crow’s Dooley’s Bagels Double Dragon Double Dragon II Double Dragon 9 Down One Bourbon Bar DP UpDogs

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57 Cafés 14 77 Middle Eastern 2 78 Middle Eastern 2 57 Cafés 6 57 Cafés 7 55 Bistro/Contemporary 2,3 61 Casual Dining 1 74 Asian/Vietnamese 2 57 Cafés 13 74 Asian/Vietnamese 13 55 Bistro/Contemporary 2 80 Desserts/Bakery 1 64 Pizza 5 61 Casual Dining 10 61 Casual Dining 13 76 European/Italian 5 78 Mexican 8 59 Steakhouse 10, 16 66 Sandwich/Deli 1 59 Steakhouse 6, 13 52 Upscale Casual 1 80 Desserts/Bakery 1, 5 61 Casual Dining 16 69 Bar & Grill 1 74 Asian/Korean 3 64 Pizza 16 58 Seafood 16 52 Upscale Casual 6 63 Home Style/Southern 1 57 Cafés 3 61 Casual Dining 8, 13, 15 72 Asian/Chinese 1 52 Upscale Casual 3 64 Pizza 16 66 Cafés 3 71 African 13 63 Home Style/Southern 14 63 Home Style/Southern 1 61 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 13 72 Asian/Chinese 3, 5 72 Asian/Chinese 15 72 Asian/Chinese 13 72 Asian/Chinese 12 72 Asian/Chinese 13 72 Asian/Chinese 13 72 Asian/Chinese 13 72 Asian/Chinese 6 72 Asian/Chinese 16 72 Asian/Chinese 13 72 Asian/Chinese 12 78 Mexican 1, 8 61 Casual Dining 5 73 Asian/Japanese 5 72 Asian/Chinese 12 61 Casual Dining 1, 3 72 Asian/Chinese 1 72 Asian/Chinese 1 72 Asian/Chinese 1 79 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,15 57 Cafés 1 58 Seafood 15 76 Indian 5 64 Pizza 2 69 Bar & Grill 13, 14, 16 61 Casual Dining 1 64 Pizza 3 80 Coffee/Tea House 14 76 European/Italian 1, 16 80 Desserts/Bakery 2,5,13 80 Desserts/Bakery 8 50 Fine Dining 8 52 Upscale Casual 5 63 Home Style/Southern 5 63 Home Style/Southern 13 57 Cafés 2 64 Cafeterias 1 57 Cafés 14 57 Cafés 15 72 Asian/Chinese 1 77 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 11 61 Casual Dining 6 71 Microbreweries 2 61 Casual Dining 1, 10 80 Desserts/Bakery 3 63 Home Style/Southern 1 63 Home Style/Southern 14 76 Indian 11 80 Desserts/Bakery 13 73 Asian/Japanese 8 66 Sandwich/Deli 3 65 Pizza 13 63 Home Style/Southern 5 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 76 European/Spanish 2 52 Upscale Casual 1 61 Casual Dining 6 59 Steakhouse 3 58 Cafés 13 64 Entertainment Dining 16 80 Desserts/Bakery 2 66 Sandwich/Deli 1 69 Bar & Grill 2, 3 76 European/Italian 2 65 Pizza 2, 3 55 Bistro/Contemporary 1 55 Bistro/Contemporary 2 66 Sandwich/Deli 1 52 Upscale Casual 1 66 Sandwich/Deli 7 72 Asian/Chinese 1, 2 72 Asian/Chinese 8,11,12,13 72 Asian/Chinese 6 69 Bar & Grill 1 66 Sandwich/Deli 14

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Dragon King’s Daughter 73 Asian/Japanese 2, 14 Drake’s 69 Bar & Grill 3, 8 Dre’Lynn’s Soul Food 63 Home Style/Southern 13 Dunkin’ Donuts 80 Desserts/Bakery 2 Eagle Lake & Restaurant 59 Seafood 12 Earth Friends Café 58 Cafés 1 Eastern House 72 Asian/Chinese 12 Eddie Merlot’s 59 Steakhouse 1 Eggroll Machine 72 Asian/Chinese 2 Eiderdown 75 European/German 13 Einstein Brothers Bagels 66 Sandwich/Deli 1 El Burrito de Oro 78 Mexican 15 El Camino 78 Mexican 2 El Caporal 78 Mexican 4, 6, 15 El Mariachi 78 Mexican 5 El Marlin Seafood 78 Mexican 6 El Molcajete 78 Mexican 13 El Mundo 78 Mexican 2 El Nopal 78 Mexican [19] El Ranchero 78 Mexican 4 El Rincon Cuban Restaurant 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 13 El Sombrero 78 Mexican 16 El Tarasco 78 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 13 El Tenampa Bar & Grill 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 12 El Torazo 78 Mexican 6 El Torito de Jalisco 78 Mexican 13 El Toro Cantina & Grill 78 Mexican 5 Emma Lou’s Café 58 Cafés 2 Emperor of China 72 Asian/Chinese 7 Empress of China 72 Asian/Chinese 4 The English Grill 50 Fine Dining 1 Equus 52 Upscale Casual 3 Erika’s German Restaurant 75 European/German 6 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 58 Cafés 1 Exchange Pub + Kitchen 55 Bistro/Contemporary 14 The Falafel House 77 Middle Eastern 2 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 68 Barbecue 6, 15 Famous Mike’s Steak & Lemonade 61 Casual Dining 13 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 65 Pizza 13 Fat Jimmy’s 65 Pizza 5 FeastBBQ 68 Barbecue 14 The Feed Bag 67 Sandwich/Deli 3 Fiesta Time Amigos 78 Mexican 11 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 78 Mexican 8 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 68 Barbecue 1, 12 Firehouse Subs 67 Sandwich/Deli 5 First Wok 72 Asian/Chinese 12 The Fish House 59 Seafood 2, 5 The Fishery 59 Seafood 3, 5 The Fishery Station 59 Seafood 11 Five Guys Burgers & Fries 61 Casual Dining 8, 14 Flanagans Ale House 69 Bar & Grill 2 Food 4 Ur Soul 63 Home Style/Southern 1 Forty Acres & A Mule 63 Home Style/Southern 13 Four King’s Café 69 Bar & Grill 4 Four Pegs Beer Lounge 55 Bistro/Contemporary 13 Four Sisters 75 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Franco’s Restaurant 63 Home Style/Southern 12 Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot 68 Barbecue 3 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli & Pizza 67 Sandwich/Deli 8 Frontier Diner 63 Home Style/Southern 12 The Fudgery 80 Desserts/Bakery 1 Fuji Asian Bistro 73 Asian/Japanese 12 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 73 Asian/Japanese 5, 8 Funmi’s African Restaurant 71 African 4 FX Pizza 65 Pizza 14 Game 61 Casual Dining 2 Garage Bar 61 Casual Dining 1 Gary’s On Spring 52 Upscale Casual 2 Gasthaus 75 European/German 7 Gavi’s Restaurant 61 Casual Dining 1 Gelato Gilberto 80 Desserts/Bakery 8 Genghis Grill 74 Asian/Mongolian 8 Gerstle’s Place 69 Bar & Grill 3 Ghyslain 75 European/French 1, 8 Gigi’s Cupcakes 81 Desserts/Bakery 6 Ginza Asian Bistro 73 Asian/Japanese 5 Golden Buddha 72 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Corral 63 Home Style/Southern [4] Golden Palace 72 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Star Chinese 72 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Wall 72 Asian/Chinese 13 Goose Creek Diner 61 Casual Dining 8 Gordon Biersch Brewery 71 Microbreweries 1 Grady’s Burgers & Wings 61 Casual Dining 13 Granville Inn 69 Bar & Grill 13 Grape Leaf 77 Middle Eastern 2 Great American Grill 69 Bar & Grill 13 Great Harvest Bread Co. 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 Great Wall 72 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wok 72 Asian/Chinese 13 Green Leaf Vegetarian 62 Casual Dining 13 Greg’s BBQ Joint 68 Barbecue 14 Guaca-Mole 78 Mexican 5 Habana Blues Tapas 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 14 Hall’s Cafeteria 64 Cafeterias 2 Hammerheads 55 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Hanabi Japanese Restaurant 73 Asian/Japanese 10 Happy China 72 Asian/Chinese 6 Happy Dragon 72 Asian/Chinese 6 Hard Rock Café 55 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Harley’s Hardwoodz BBQ 68 Barbecue 16 Harvest 52 Upscale Casual 1 Havana Rumba 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 3,5 Havana Rumba Express 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 2 Hawksview Gallery 52 Upscale Casual 13 Hay Chi Wa Waa 78 Mexican 5 Heart & Soy 73 Asian/Japanese 2 Heine Brothers Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House [13] Heitzman Bakery & Deli 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 Henry’s Place 53 Upscale Casual 7 Hibachi Sushi Buffet 72 Asian/Chinese 11 Hickory House BBQ 68 Barbecue 13 Highland Coffee Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 2

SOME PLACES SIMPLY SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES. Since 1923, when The Brown Hotel first opened her doors to the world, she has graciously welcomed guests with a sense of grandeur, which quite frankly has left many of our guests speechless. NOW, HERE’S WHAT THE REST OF THE WORLD IS SAYING: “Named one of the BEST 500 HOTELS IN THE WORLD” TRAVEL + LEISURE MAGAZINE

“Service was exemplary. I checked out with regret.” CHICAGO TRIBUNE

“The English Grill has emerged as the finest restaurant in the city.” WINE SPECTATOR

THE ENGLISH GRILL

T H E G R A N D LO B BY B A R

DOWNTOWN AT FOURTH & BROADWAY (502) 583-1234 • www.brownhotel.com www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2013 47


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Highland Morning Highlands Taproom Grill Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar Hill Street Fish Fry Hilltop Tavern Hitching Post Inn Hobknobb Roasting Co. Holy Grale Home Run Burgers & Fries Homemade Pie Kitchen Hometown Buffet Hometown Pizza Honey Creme Donut Shop Honeybaked Café Hong Kong Chinese Hong Kong Fast Food Hoops Grill and Sports Bar Hooters Howl at the Moon Hunan Wok Ichiban Samurai IHOP Incredible Dave’s Indi’s Restaurant The International Mall Iries Caribbean Café The Irish Exit The Irish Rover Iroquois Pizza J. Alexander’s J. Graham’s Café J. Gumbo’s J. Harrods JJ Fish & Chicken Jack Binion’s Steakhouse Jack Fry’s Jack’s Lounge Jackknife Café Jackson’s Seafood Jade Palace Jamba Juice Jane’s Cafeteria Jasmin Bakery Jasmine Jason’s Deli Java Brewing Co. Jazzyblu Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse Jersey’s Café Jersey Mike’s Subs Jimmy John’s Sub Shop Joe & Kathy’s Place Joe Huber Restaurant Joe’s Crab Shack Joe’s O.K. Bayou Joe’s Older Than Dirt John O’Bryan’s Tavern Johnny Brusco’s Pizza Johnny V’s JR’s Pub Jucy’s Smokehouse Jumbo Buffet Kaelin’s Coffeehouse Kailana Sushi Kalisimbi Bar & Grill Kansai Japanese Rest. Karem’s Kashmir Indian Kayrouz Café Kenna’s Korner Kern’s Korner Khalil’s King Wok Kingfish King’s Fried Chicken Kobe Japanese Steak Koreana II KT’s Kum’s Kafe La Bamba La Bocca La Bodega La Carreta La Coop: Bistro à Vins La Gallo Rosso Bistro La Hacienda Guadalajara La Peche La Popular La Que La Riviera Maya La Rosita Taqueria La Sierra Lancaster’s Cafeteria Las Gorditas Le Bossier Café Lee’s Korean Legend’s Lemongrass Café Lenny’s Sub Shop The Lighthouse Lilly’s Limestone Ling Ling Little Caesar’s Pizza Little India Café Little Jerusalem Liu’s Garden Logan’s Roadhouse Lolitas Tacos Inc. Longhorn Steakhouse Lonnie’s Taste Of Chicago Loop 22 Los Aztecas Lotsa Pasta 48 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com

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58 Cafés 2 70 Bar & Grill 2 73 Asian/Japanese 5 59 Seafood 13 70 Bar & Grill 2 70 Bar & Grill 11 80 Coffee/Tea House 14 55 Bistro/Contemporary 2 62 Casual Dining 3, 5, 6, 13 81 Desserts [9] 63 Home Style/Southern 6,3 65 Pizza 7 81 Desserts/Bakery 14 67 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 14 72 Asian/Chinese 14 72 Asian/Chinese 13 70 Bar & Grill 13 62 Casual Dining 3,13,12,15,16 64 Entertainment Dining 1 72 Asian/Chinese 11 73 Asian/Japanese 6 62 Casual Dining 6, 15 64 Entertainment Dining 8 63 Home Style/Southern 1,3,13,16 76 European/Italian 1 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 16 75 European/Irish 14 75 European/Irish 2, 7 65 Pizza 13 53 Upscale Casual 3 58 Cafés 1 77 Cajun/Creole 1,2,6 53 Upscale Casual 10 59 Seafood 16 50 Fine Dining 14 50 Fine Dining 2 56 Bistro/Contemporary 3 58 Cafés 2 59 Seafood 14 72 Asian/Chinese 5 58 Cafés 1 64 Cafeterias 4 81 Desserts/Bakery 4 72 Asian/Chinese 5 67 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5 80 Coffee/Tea House 2,8 56 Bistro/Contemporary 1 59 Steakhouse 1 70 Bar & Grill 15 67 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 67 Sandwich/Deli [9] 62 Casual Dining 12 64 Entertainment Dining 14 59 Seafood 1 77 Cajun/Creole 6 62 Casual Dining 5 70 Bar & Grill 12 65 Pizza 8 65 Pizza 6 70 Bar & Grill 14 68 Barbecue 5 72 Asian/Chinese 6 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 73 Asian/Japanese 11 71 African 13 73 Asian/Japanese 6, 15 62 Casual Dining 8 76 Indian 2 58 Cafés 3 65 Pizza 8 62 Casual Dining 2 70 Bar & Grill 12 72 Asian/Chinese 3 59 Seafood 6, 7, 16 63 Home Style/Southern 13 73 Asian/Japanese 16 74 Asian/Korean 13 53 Upscale Casual 2 63 Home Style/Southern 13 78 Mexican 2 76 European/Italian 14 76 European/Spanish 2 78 Mexican 13 75 European/French 1 76 European/Italian 2 78 Mexican 13 58 Cafés 2 78 Mexican 13 75 Asian/Vietnamese 2 78 Mexican 13 78 Mexican 5, 13, 15 78 Mexican 11 64 Cafeterias 15 78 Mexican 11 63 Home Style/Southern 1 74 Asian/Korean 13 62 Casual Dining 14 75 Asian/Vietnamese 5 67 Sandwich/Deli 4 70 Bar & Grill 16 50 Fine Dining 2 50 Fine Dining 5 72 Asian/Chinese 5 65 Pizza 5, 6, 8, 11, 13, 14, 16 76 Indian 4 77 Middle Eastern 13 72 Asian/Chinese 5 59 Steakhouse 3, 6, 12, 15 78 Mexican 13 59 Steakhouse 6, 8, 13, 15 67 Sandwich/Deli 2, 13 56 Bistro/Contemporary 2 78 Mexican 1, 5, 10 67 Sandwich/Deli 3

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Loui Loui’s Detroit Pizza 65 Pizza 6 Louis Le Francais 75 European/French 14 Louisville Pizza Co. 65 Pizza 6 Louisville Tea Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 5 Luigi’s 65 Pizza 1 Ma Zerellas 65 Pizza 15 Maa Sha Allah 71 African 4 Main Eatery 67 Sandwich/Deli 1 Main Street Café 67 Sandwich/Deli 1 Mai’s Thai Restaurant 74 Asian/Thai 16 Majid’s St. Matthews 56 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Maker’s Mark Lounge 53 Upscale Casual 1 Mango’s Bar & Grill 78 Mexican 6, 13 Manhattan Grill 62 Casual Dining 1 Manny & Merle 56 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Marco’s Pizza 65 Pizza 14 Marketplace Restaurant 56 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Mark’s Feed Store 68 Barbecue 2, 5, 11, 12, 14 Marlyce’s Place 81 Desserts/Bakery 15 Martini Italian Bistro 76 European/Italian 8 Masa Japanese 73 Asian/Japanese 5 Match Cigar Bar 56 Bistro/Contemporary 16 Mayan Café 79 Mexican 1 McAlister’s Deli 67 Sandwich/Deli [9] Mellow Mushroom 65 Pizza 3, 5 The Melting Pot 53 Upscale Casual 6 Meridian Café 58 Cafés 3 Mexican Fiesta 79 Mexican 4 Mexico Tipico 79 Mexican 12 Mexico Viejo 79 Mexican 2 Mikato Japanese Steakhouse 73 Asian/Japanese 3 Mike Linnig’s 59 Seafood 12 Mike’s Tavern 70 Bar & Grill 14 MilkWood 50 Fine Dining 1 Mimi’s Café 62 Casual Dining 5 Mimo’s Pizzeria 65 Pizza 14 Mirage Mediterranean Grill 77 Middle Eastern 13 Miss C’s Kitchen & Pantry 64 Home Style/Southern 1,2 Mitchell’s Fish Market 59 Seafood 8 Moe’s Southwest Grill 79 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,6,8,11,15 Mojito Tapas Restaurant 76 European/Spanish 7 Molly Malone’s 75 European/Irish 2, 3 Momma’s Mustard, Pickles & BBQ 68 Barbecue 3 The Monkey Wrench 62 Casual Dining 2 More Shenanigan’s 75 European/Irish 4 Morris Deli & Catering 67 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2 Morton’s of Chicago 59 Steakhouse 1 Mr. Gattis 65 Pizza 5, 12, 13, 15 Mrs. Potter’s Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House 1 Mt. Fuji 73 Asian/Japanese 13 Mucho Queso Pizzeria 65 Pizza 2 Mulligan’s Pub and Grill 62 Casual Dining 2 Muscle Monkey Café 67 Sandwich/Deli 6, 8, 1 15 Mussel & Burger Bar 56 Bistro/Contemporary 6 My Favorite Muffin 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 My Old KY Dinner Train 64 Entertainment Dining 13 NamNam Café 75 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Nana’s Country Kitchen 64 Home Style/Southern 12 Nancy’s Bagel Box 67 Sandwich/Deli 1 Nancy’s Bagel Grounds 67 Sandwich/Deli 2 Napa River Grill 53 Upscale Casual 5 Neil & Patty’s Fireside Grill 62 Casual Dining 14 New Albanian Brewing Co. 65 Pizza 14 New Albany Roadhouse 62 Casual Dining 14 New China 72 Asian/Chinese 5 New Direction Bar & Grill 70 Bar & Grill 8 Nonnie’s Kitchen 58 Cafés 5 Nord’s Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 13 North End Café 56 Bistro/Contemporary 2 O’Charley’s 62 Casual Dining 3,6,8,13,12,15 O’Dolly’s 64 Home Style/Southern 13 O’Shea’s Irish Pub 75 European/Irish 2 The Oakroom 50 Fine Dining 1 Oasis Sushi & Soul 73 Asian/Japanese 13 Oishii Sushi 73 Asian/Japanese 4 Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza 65 Pizza 6, 8 Old Louisville Tavern 70 Bar & Grill 13 Old Spaghetti Factory 76 European/Italian 1 Old Stone Inn 53 Upscale Casual 5 Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 68 Barbecue 11 O-Line Sports Grill 70 Bar & Grill 8 The Olive Garden 76 European/Italian 6,8,11,15 Ollie’s Trolley 67 Sandwich/Deli 1 Onion Restaurant & Tea House 72 Asian/Chinese 14 Orange Clover Kitchen 58 Cafés 16 Oriental House 72 Asian/Chinese 3 Oriental Star 72 Asian/Chinese 13 Original Impellizzeri’s 65 Pizza 1, 2, 10 Osaka Sushi Bar 73 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Otto’s Café 62 Casual Dining 1 Outback Steakhouse 59 Steakhouse 3,8,11,13,15 P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 53 Upscale Casual 5 Palermo Viejo 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 2 Panda Chinese 72 Asian/Chinese 10 Panda Express 72 Asian/Chinese 6, 15 Panera Bread Co. 67 Sandwich/Deli [9] Papa John’s 66 Pizza [30] Papa Murphy’s Pizza 66 Pizza 3,4,5,8,11,12,14,15,16 Papalino’s NY Pizzeria 66 Pizza 2 Passtime Fish House 59 Seafood 6 Patrick O’Shea’s 76 European/Irish 1 Pat’s Steak House 60 Steakhouse 2 Paul’s Fruit Market 67 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 5, 7 Pearl 75 Asian/Vietnamese 14 Peking City Bistro 72 Asian/Chinese 5 Penn Station 67 Sandwich/Deli [17] Peppers Bar and Grill 62 Casual Dining 1 Perfetto Pizza 66 Pizza 6 Perkfection 80 Coffee/Tea House 16 Pesto’s Italian 76 European/Italian 1 Petra Mediterranean 77 Middle Eastern 4 Philly Steak & Burger 62 Casual Dining 2 Pho Binh Minh 75 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Piccadilly Cafeteria 64 Cafeterias 6


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Pina Fiesta Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 12 Pink Baron BBQ 68 Barbecue 16 Pita Delights 77 Middle Eastern 1 Pita Hut 77 Middle Eastern 2 Pita Pit 77 Middle Eastern 6 Pizza Donisi 66 Pizza 13 Pizza King 66 Pizza 14, 16 Pizza Place 66 Pizza 4 Please & Thank You 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 Pleasure Ridge Place 66 Pizza 12 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Police Donuts 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 Ponderosa Steakhouse 60 Steakhouse 13 Porcini 76 European/Italian 2 Potbelly Sandwich Shop 67 Sandwich/Deli 1, 8 Primo’s Delicatessen 67 Sandwich/Deli 14 Proof On Main 53 Upscale Casual 1 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 66 Pizza 3 Puerto Vallarta 79 Mexican 11, 14, 16 Pupuseria y Taqueria 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 13 Qdoba Mexican Grill 79 Mexican [16] Quad Café 62 Casual Dining 16 Queen of Sheba 71 African 4 Queue Café 58 Cafés 1 Quick Wok 72 Asian/Chinese 1 Quill’s Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House 2, 13, 14 Quizno’s Subs 68 Sandwich/Deli [7] Rafferty’s of Louisville 62 Casual Dining 3, 8 Raising Cane’s 62 Casual Dining 8 Ramiro’s Cantina 79 Mexican 2 Ramsi’s Café 56 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Red Hot Roasters 80 Coffee/Tea House 1, 2 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 62 Casual Dining 3, 8 Red Sun Chinese 72 Asian/Chinese 4 Red’s Comfort Food 68 Sandwich/Deli 1 Relish 56 Bistro/Contemporary 1 River City Drafthouse 70 Bar & Grill 2 River City Winery 56 Bistro/Contemporary 4 River Road BBQ 68 Barbecue 7 Riverside Café 58 Cafés 16 Rivue 50 Fine Dining 1 Rob-A-Que 68 Barbecue 13 Rocky’s Pizza & Panini 66 Pizza 4 Rocky’s Sub Pub 66 Pizza 16 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 76 European/Italian 5 Rooster’s 62 Casual Dining 12, 13, 15 Rootie’s Sports Bar & Grille 70 Bar & Grill 8 Roots 73 Asian/Japanese 2 Rosie’s Pizza 66 Pizza 5 Rosticeria Luna 79 Mexican 13 Royal Garden 72 Asian/Chinese 13 Rubbie’s Southside Grill & Bar 68 Barbecue 13 Ruby Tuesday 62 Casual Dining 6, 15 The Rudyard Kipling 62 Casual Dining 1 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 59 Seafood 5 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 60 Steakhouse 3 Ryan’s Steakhouse 60 Steakhouse 11 Rye 53 Upscale Casual 1 SaE Café 68 Sandwich/Deli 1 Saffron’s 77 Middle Eastern 1 Safier Mediterranean Deli 77 Middle Eastern 1 Saigon Café 75 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Saigon One 75 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Saint’s 70 Bar & Grill 3 Sake Blue Japanese Bistro 73 Asian/Japanese 11 Sakura Blue 73 Asian/Japanese 3 Sala Thai 74 Asian/Thai 11 Sal’s Pizza & Wings 66 Pizza 5 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 79 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,5 Sam’s Food & Spirits 62 Casual Dining 14 Sam’s Hot Dog Stand 62 Casual Dining 2 Santa Fe Grill 79 Mexican 13 Sapporo Japanese Grill 73 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Sari Sari Filipino Cuisine 72 Asian/Filipino 2 Schlotzsky’s Deli 68 Sandwich/Deli 8 Scotty’s Ribs & More 68 Barbecue 5 Scotty’s Village Market 68 Sandwich/Deli 8 Selena’s at Willow Lake Tavern 77 Cajun/Creole 5 Señor Iguana’s 79 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 13, 15 Señor Taco 79 Mexican 11 Sergio’s World Beers 70 Bar & Grill 2 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 50 Fine Dining 2 Shack In The Back BBQ 68 Barbecue 13 Shady Lane Café 68 Sandwich/Deli 7 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 74 Asian/Mongolian 6, 13 Shalimar Indian 76 Indian 6 Shane’s Rib Shack 68 Barbecue 7 Shanghai Restaurant 72 Asian/Chinese 1 Shark’s Fish & Chicken 59 Seafood 13 Sheila’s Southern Cuisine 64 Home Style/Southern 2 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 76 European/Irish 2 Sherry’s Corner Café 58 Cafés 16 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 77 Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 13 Shirley Mae’s Café 64 Home Style/Southern 1 Shogun 73 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Shoney’s 62 Casual Dining 5, 13 Sichuan Garden 72 Asian/Chinese 6 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 66 Pizza 1 Sidebar 56 Bistro/Contemporary 1 The Silver Dollar 56 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Simply Thai 74 Asian/Thai 3, 5 Sin Fronteras 79 Mexican 15 Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor 66 Pizza 15 Sister Bean’s 80 Coffee/Tea House 13 Sitar Indian Restaurant 76 Indian 2 Skyline Chili 62 Casual Dining 2, 3, 6, 12 Smashburger 62 Casual Dining 1, 5 Smokehouse BBQ 68 Barbecue 11 Smoketown USA 68 Barbecue 1 Smokey Bones BBQ 69 Barbecue 6 Smokey’s Bean 80 Coffee/Tea House 13 Snappy Tomato 66 Pizza 8 Sol Aztecas 79 Mexican 1, 2 Sonoma Coffee Café 80 Coffee/Tea House 2

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Sora Sushi Spaghetti Shop Spinelli’s Pizzeria Sporting News Grill The Sports & Social Club Spring St. Bar & Grill St. Charles Exchange Star Sushi Starbucks Coffee Starving Artist Café State Donuts Steak N Shake Stevens & Stevens Deli Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen Stoney River Stricker’s Café Studio Pizza Sub Station II Sugar & Spice Donut Shop Sully’s Saloon Sunday’s Home Cooking Sunergos Coffee SuperChef’s Breakfast Sway Sweets Frog Sweet Stuff Bakery Sweet Surrender Sweets & Such Bakery Taco Punk Taco Tico Tacqueria La Mexicana Taj Palace Take Out To The River TanThai Restaurant Taylor G’s Jamaican Jerk Tazza Mia TC’s Sandwich Shoppe Tea Station Chinese Bistro Teena’s Pizza Terri Ann’s Texas Roadhouse Texicans BBQ Pit TGI Friday’s Thai Café Thai Siam Thai Smile 5 Thai Taste That Place On Goss The Back Door The Café The Cheddar Box The Cheddar Box Too Thornberry’s Deli & Pies Tienda La Chapinlandia Tin Roof Toast On Market Tokyo Japanese Tom + Chee Tomo Tony Impellizzeri’s Troll Pub Under The Bridge Tucker’s Tumbleweed Tuscany Italian Restaurant Tut’s Mediterranean Twig & Leaf Restaurant Uncle Maddio’s Pizza Joint Uptown Café Varanese Verbana Café Vic’s Café Vietnam Kitchen Village Anchor Pub & Roost Vincenzo’s Vint Coffee Vito’s Pizza Volare W.g. Grinders W.W. Cousin’s Wagner’s Pharmacy Wall Street Deli Warehouse Hookah Café Wasabiya Japanese Rest. Way Cool Café Webb’s Market Wick’s Pizza Wild Eggs Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion William’s Bakery Wiltshire On Market Wiltshire Pantry Bakery The Wing Zone Wingstop Winston’s Wok Express Wolfgang Puck Express Wonton Express Yaching’s East West Cuisine Yafa Café Yang Kee Noodle Yellow Cactus Yen Ching You-Carryout-A Zanzabar Za’s Pizza Zaxby’s Zaytun Mediterranean Grill Zen Garden ZiaLaLa Café Zoe’s Kitchen Zoup! Z’s Oyster Bar

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73 Asian/Japanese 5 76 European/Italian 11, 14 66 Pizza 1, 2, 3, 8, 12 70 Bar & Grill 13 70 Bar & Grill 1 70 Bar & Grill 2 53 Upscale Casual 1 74 Asian/Japanese 16 80 Coffee/Tea House [35] 68 Sandwich/Deli 5 81 Desserts/Bakery 8 62 Casual Dining 4,6,8,13,12,15 68 Sandwich/Deli 2 76 European/Italian 7 60 Steakhouse 8 58 Cafés 16 66 Pizza 15 68 Sandwich/Deli 13 81 Desserts/Bakery 11 70 Bar & Grill 1 64 Home Style/Southern 13 80 Coffee/Tea House 1, 13 62 Casual Dining 2, 3 54 Casual Dining 1 81 Desserts/Bakery [4] 81 Desserts/Bakery 14 81 Desserts/Bakery 2 81 Desserts/Bakery 12 62 Casual Dining 1 79 Mexican 12 79 Mexican 13 76 Indian 8 58 Cafés 10 74 Asian/Thai 14 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 1 80 Coffee/Tea House 6 68 Sandwich/Deli 1 72 Asian/Chinese 8 66 Pizza 13 64 Home Style/Southern 12 60 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 69 Barbecue 7 62 Casual Dining 1 74 Asian/Thai 7 74 Asian/Thai 4 74 Asian/Thai 13 74 Asian/Thai 2 63 Casual Dining 13 70 Bar & Grill 2 58 Cafés 1 58 Cafés 3 58 Cafés 3 68 Sandwich/Deli 13 79 Mexican 13 70 Bar & Grill 3 63 Casual Dining 1, 14 74 Asian/Japanese 7 68 Sandwich/Deli 2, 3, 13 74 Asian/Japanese 14 66 Pizza 14 70 Bar & Grill 1 63 Casual Dining 14 79 Southwest/Tex Mex [15] 76 European/Italian 13 77 Middle Eastern 4 63 Casual Dining 2 66 Pizza 2 54 Upscale Casual 7 54 Upscale Casual 2 58 Cafés 8 71 Bar & Grill 14 75 Asian/Vietnamese 13 56 Bistro/Contemporary 5 51 Fine Dining 1 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 66 Pizza 13 76 European/Italian 2 63 Casual Dining 1 68 Sandwich/Deli 3 64 Home Style/Southern 13 68 Sandwich/Deli 1 77 Middle Eastern 14 74 Asian/Japanese 2 58 Cafés 1 64 Home Style/Southern 1 66 Pizza 2, 5, 6, 8, 14 58 Cafés 3, 5 74 Asian/Japanese 2 81 Desserts/Bakery 15 54 Upscale Casual 1 58 Cafés 2 63 Casual Dining 13 71 Bar & Grill 12 51 Fine Dining 4 72 Asian/Chinese 1 58 Cafés 1 72 Asian/Chinese 4 54 Upscale Casual 1 58 Cafés 1 72 Asian/Chinese 5 79 Mexican 14 72 Asian/Chinese 6 72 Asian/Chinese 15, 16 71 Bar & Grill 13 66 Pizza 2 63 Casual Dining [5] 77 Middle Eastern 2 75 Asian/Vietnamese 2 58 Cafés 5 77 Middle Eastern 1, 3, 8 68 Sandwich/Deli 1 51 Fine Dining 5 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2013 49


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GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15-$20 $$ = $9-$14 $$$$ = $21 & up RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

p = Full Bar

OPEN PAST 10 P.M.

f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise). All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 896-9570. To find 211 Clover Lane you have to negotiate St. Matthews side streets and cross railroad tracks to locate the restaurant notched into the corner of a little upscale cluster of shops. When you do, you can enjoy drinks in a newly expanded lounge, and dine off seasonal menus from chef Troy Shuster, who, along with owner Andrew Smith, have kept 211 Clover Lane among the town’s top tables for two decades. $$$$ Br L D pf 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. For nearly a decade Edward Lee has maintained his Old Louisville restaurant’s reputation as a dining destination. Now Nick Sullivan has taken over as executive chef as Lee, with his recent Food TV national exposure, has assumed the role of impresario. The monthly family style pasta and bistro dinners across the street in the Wine Studio give diners a way to appreciate 610’s style at a lower price point. $$$$ D pf BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant but not overstated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower

Apartments has been quietly serving high-style lunches and dinners for more than two decades. The quality of food and service remains high, and Rick Bartlett continues his long tenure at the piano. $$$ L D hpfe CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, longtime fixture on the Louisville dining scene, went all-out with his East End destination. Housed in the stunning former Von Allmen mansion, Corbett’s kitchen is state of the art, the dining room amenities include a chef’s table with closed circuit TV connection to the kitchen, and his menu has been earning raves. Worth the trip and the price. $$$$ L D hpf ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. This landmark, formal dining room is firing on all cylinders under Chef Laurent Geroli, who brings an international sophistication to the menu, and a wider exploration of cuisines with occasional special wine dinners. We recommend booking the chef’s table for an especially memorable evening. $$$ D p JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Housed in the Horseshoe Casino, Jack Binion’s, a stylish, upscale place, is no gamble for hearty dining. A traditional steakhouse, but one that aims high: top quality meat, impeccable service, a high-roller’s ambience. $$$$ D hp JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Good times or bad, weeknights or weekends, this Louisville institution — the remnant of a 1930s saloon — is always crowded and buzzing. Stephanie Meeks has taken over from long-time owner Susan Seiller, but the upscale bistro fare, like shrimp and grits and spicy fried oysters, is as good as ever. $$$$ L D hpe LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution for more than a quarter-century, Lilly’s, under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, continues to be as fresh as the locally-sourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus. Her frequent special wine dinners are among the more affordable and creative in the area. $$$$ Br L D p LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. Chef Jim Gerhardt has established a stylish and elegant dining experience in the East End. Seasonal theme dinners and the Feed Me Chef ad hoc dinners offer special values. $$$$ L D hpf MILKWOOD 316 W. Main St., 584-6455. Owner Edward Lee has taken on a daunting task — making the downstairs space at Actors Theatre a dining destination even after curtain call and when the theater is dark. Under executive chef Kevin Ashworth, the menu blends Asian and Southern influences and has received national attention. The sleek, clean updating of the space is both chic and welcoming. $$$ D p THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. Executive Chef Jim Gerhardt (who also operates Limestone in the East End) continues to make the Oakroom worthy of its AAA five-diamond designation. The menu is refined but lively, melding local produce and specialty items like spoonfish caviar with classic continental cuisine. $$$$ Br D pe RIVUE 140 N. Fourth St., (Galt House Hotel) 568-4239. The sleek black and white modern decor, slowly spinning to give a panorama of the city, brings to mind an old Fred Astaire movie. New chef Dustin Willard’s upscale menu adds another top hotel dining experience to the city. $$$ Br D hp SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers an eclectic range of Latin American dishes in addition to the namesake the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices. Continuing to get notice throughout the Southeast for his imaginative cooking, he is setting a standard of cool for the Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ D hpf

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VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ L D hpe WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Rd. (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Higher education meets higher cuisine at this elegant oncampus restaurant staffed by Sullivan culinary arts students. But this is no college lab; it’s an attractive and stylish restaurant. Chef John Castro runs the staff through its paces guaranteeing that while students are learning their craft, your dinner will ace the test. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$$ Br L D p Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000, 115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000. The successful upscale steak and oyster concept that has worked so well in the Hurstbourne suburbs is now also the theme at Z’s sleek downtown venue. Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience will give visitors another center-city choice. $$$$ L D hp

60 WEST BISTRO & MARTINI BAR 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. 60 West combines a comfortable dining room with a large, friendly bar offering an imposing list of martinis and martini-style cocktails. The menu offers fairly priced Contemporary American bistro fare. $$$ D hfe ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Fifteen years ago Chef Peng Looi introduced Louisville diners to pan-Asian Pacific Rim fusion cuisine. In his sophisticated, multi-level, Bardstown Road restaurant he continues to offer clean, simple, elegant dishes that present often startling flavor combinations. His wok-seared salmon has long been a local favorite. $$$ Br D hpf AUSTIN’S 4950 U.S. 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ Br L D p BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Chef Michael Ton brought a new style of Asian fusion cuisine to Louisville, playing entertaining riffs off Vietnamese cooking, with daring choices like caramelized catfish claypot and tamarind-sriracha gelato. $$$ D hp BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, 228-6962. Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell continues to please his many fans at his latest restaurant in the Prospect Center. The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. The monthly LobsterFest night is worth checking out. $$$ Br D pf BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine in striking surroundings highlighted by Mexican limestone and Italian marble. For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ B Br L D pe BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491. Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Romanruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and firstrate grilled meats. $$ Br L D hpf BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 456-1702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 1860 Mellwood Ave., 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 292-2585, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-1995. A cornerstone

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of Louisville’s restaurant renaissance, The Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now with six venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger. F&D columnist Scott Harper has crafted an exceptional wine selection. $$ Br L D hpf CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Sammy Sa, the genial host of the Fuji restaurants in the East End, also pleases downtown diners with this stylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel. Eat at the sushi bar, choose a comfortable table or reserve the traditional Japanesestyle Tatami Room for your group. $$$ L D hp

PREPARE YOUR SENSES. Winston s has enhanced its menu of award-winning cuisine and contemporary cocktails.

502-456-0980 | winstonsoflouisville.com Lunch: Friday & Saturday 11am-2pm; Sunday 10am-2pm | Dinner: Friday & Saturday 5:30-10pm Reservations recommended | 3101 Bardstown Road

CHARR’D BOURBON KITCHEN & LOUNGE 1903 Embassy Square Blvd. (Marriott Louisville East), 4911184. The J’town Marriott Hotel’s restaurant is on the Urban Bourbon Trail, which explains menu divisions such as “10 Minute White Dog” lunch choices, and “Bootlegger Burger Bar.” The bar boasts over 75 offerings of Bourbon. $$$ Br L D hp THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd. (Mall St. Matthews), 897-3933. “Cheesecake” is its name, and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich, calorific choices to eat in or take out. It’s more than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar service. $$$ Br L D hpf CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$$ L D hp DECCA 812 E. Market St., 749-8128. Located in an 1870s building in NuLu, Decca brings the talent of chef Annie Pettry to Louisville. A commitment to locally farmed and small production ingredients is evident in the kitchen, and throughout the bar and wine program. Decca features local artists and musicians alongside inspired food and drinks in a warm atmosphere. $$$$ D hpfe DOC CROW’S 127 W. Main St., 587-1626. Doc Crow’s solidly anchors the dining choices on Whiskey Row. Oysters from both coasts, raw and fried, fried green tomatoes, pork rinds, shrimp and grits, all served in a handsome renovation of one of Main Street’s classic cast-iron front buildings. $$ L D hp EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. The appeal of chefowner Dean Corbett’s first restaurant continues nearly three decades after its opening. The casual atmosphere and menu focus on clever re-imaginings of comfort foods make the St. Matthews spot an enduring and delightful dining choice. $$$ D p GARY’S ON SPRING 204 Spring St., 584-5533. Chef Harold Baker has been at the helm of this Irish Hill upscale casual spot since the start. His menu features appetizers such as a baby Hot Brown and chicken fritters with red chili sauce, a buffalo mozzarella salad, bison ribeye, Bourbon Street scallops and eggplant Napoleon. $$$ D phpfe HARVEST 624 E. Market St., 384-9090. Agricultural entrepreneur Ivor Chodkowski’s venture into the restaurant world has succeeded beyond his initial imaginings. Chef Coby Ming’s seasonal menus, intensely focused on sourcing ingredients within a 100-mile radius, increases diners’ awareness of how much local food producers can do. Dishes such as smoked goat cheese ravioli and buttermilk fried chicken with arugula hoecake show what they have in mind. $$$ Br L D hpf HAWKSVIEW GALLERY AND CAFÉ 170 Carter Ave., Shepherdsville KY, (502) 955-1010. In this “American bistro with a Southern twist,” diners eat amidst a gallery of hand-crafted glass art. Daily specials are inspired by world cuisines and the “confectionary artist” creates sweets like Linzer tortes and extreme turtle cheesecake. Watch glass being blown as you dine. $$ Br L D e

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HENRY’S PLACE 4863 Brownsboro Ctr., 690-6585. This East End, Euro-inspired brigade de cuisine restaurant offers affordable upscale dining in surroundings of “sophisticated retro Mad Men 60s” decor. The eclectic menu offers choices such as Wagyu beef carpaccio, chicken ballotine and cioppino. Chef and co-owner Charles Reed even uses double-yolk duck eggs in his house-made pasta for added richness and color. $$$$ D p J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ D hp J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. J. Harrod’s is discreetly tasteful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bistro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ D p KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. It’s hard to argue with success, and KT’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ Br L D hpf MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE 446 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 568-9009. Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Distillery lends its name and its signature red-wax image to this stylish restaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magisterial bar features more than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$$ L D hpf MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125. This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ D hp NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 893-0141. One of the original tenants in the steadily growing Westport Road restaurant and retail complex, Napa River Grill continues its West Coast wine country and Pacific Rim fusion-focused menu. Look for dishes such as tempura chicken salad, ahi tuna nachos, pad Thai, togarashi-blackened sea bass and pan-roasted chicken over dried tomato polenta. $$$ L D hpf OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. For many years diners have happily driven out to Simpsonville to enjoy both the historic building and the traditional Kentucky menu of this dining institution. Those in the know order the fried chicken and country ham. $$$ Br L D pfe P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinesestyle dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$$ L D hpf PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St. (21c Hotel), 2176360. Executive chef Levon Wallace is at the helm in the kitchen now, promising to keep the bison burger and the octopus on the menu as he explores his own ways to incorporate local products into his culinary vision. $$$ Br L D hpf RYE 900 E. Market St., 749-6200. New York hip meets Kentucky farm produce and meats, and the result is a daily menu focused on what is freshest. Every dish is created with unpretentious flair and served in a sleek — if noisy — East Market Street ambience. Chef Tyler Morris’s house-made charcuterie program is exceptional.$$ L D hpf THE ST. CHARLES EXCHANGE 113 S. Seventh St., 6181917. The elegantly handsome renovation of a onetime hotel is a fine place to sip crafted cocktails at the long wood bar while munching on the fancy deviled eggs. Stop in at lunch for Elvis on horseback (dates stuffed with peanut butter and wrapped in bacon), fried oysters, or interesting sandwiches and

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hearty lunch plates. Dinner selections include soup au pistou, scallops and arancini and red quinoa gnocchi. $$$$ D hp SWAY 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. After a $5.8 million renovation, the Hyatt Regency, long without a signature competitive restaurant, is now back in the game, with one of the handsomest dining spaces around. The menu is based on the “Southern Way,” from whence comes the name Sway, which is an emphasis on fresh seasonal food with local sourcing whenever possible. The bar area opens onto Fourth Street, for superior people-watching. $$$ B L D hpf UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212. Anchoring a hot corner in the Highlands for two decades now, the Uptown continues to be a popular lunch and dining destination, with its excellent bistro fare, and always appealing dessert selections. $$$ L D hpf VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese has made even old-timers forget that this stylish venue was once a gas station. With a slate interior waterfall and a front wall that folds open in good weather, the dining room is as interesting as the lively, international seasonal menu. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ D hpfe VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian.) WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 5895224. Understated elegance and creative dishes characterize this NuLu restaurant. The finely crafted small plates menu changes weekly to showcase the best seasonal ingredients. Start with the weekly charcuterie board or cheese plate, followed by a seasonal flatbread or salad, and perhaps a pasta dish such as goat cheese and lemon ravioli in pink peppercorn butter sauce. Open Thur.-Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$ D pf YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Fourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of East and West, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ L D hp

ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ B L D hp BISTRO 1860 WINE BAR 1765 Mellwood Ave., 6181745. Chef Michael Crouch’s concept of offering most dishes at three sizes and/or price ranges — petite for tasting, appetizer and small entrée — allows diners to explore the menu at a reasonable cost. The homey old Butchertown building is comfy and chic. During fair weather, dine in the shady garden, or ask to be seated in the Camel Lounge upstairs. $$$ D hpf BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Quality contemporary American cuisine in a stylish environment makes Bistro 301 a reasonable alternative when you’re looking for upscale-casual dining downtown. $$$ L D pf BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838. It’s a comfortably upscale-casual restaurant, and a great bar, with a very comprehensive Bourbon list. Chef Jeff ”The Dude” Bridges has been reinvigorating this Crescent Hill favorite’s menu to match the excellence of its libations. $$$ D pf BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120. The use of an exceptionally obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content

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of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ D hpe CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776, 2216 Dundee Rd., 459-9566. Critical raves and packed in crowds at both locations testifies to the popularity of Owner-Chef Clay Wallace’s international bill of fare and laissez les bon temps rouler mood. $$ Br L D hp CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch, or a hip stop for a late-night supper. $$ B L D fe DISH ON MARKET 434 W. Market St., 315-0669. Former Asiatique bar manager Anderson Grissom has stepped into the venerable lawyers’ lunch space on Market Street, renovating the kitchen and some interior space of the old Delta Restaurant into a somewhat upscale spot now open breakfast through dinner. $ B Br L D pf DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. This informally whimsical Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Sure, take note of the fanciful artwork adorning the exposed brick walls and the gargoyles in the ceiling. But don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ Br L D hpf EXCHANGE PUB + KITCHEN 118 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 948-6501. Owner Ian Hall has quickly made his gastropub into a popular lunch and dinner spot. The sumptuously renovated historic building in the center of the New Albany dining revival is a fun place to sit and sample the clever but accessible eclectic bistro-style menu. Try its version of Korean BBQ or polenta fritters, steak frites or cider-glazed chicken. Wash things down with something from its substantial and interesting beer, wine and cocktails list that even includes house-made ginger ale. $$ L D hpfe FOUR PEGS BEER LOUNGE 1053 Goss Ave., 634-1447. Four Pegs has settled in nicely to the Germantown scene. Twelve craft beers on tap and a 30 bottle beer list brings in the fans, who also appreciate the award-winning veggie burger and other well-priced pub grub such as a chicken and waffle sandwich and an estimable burger with bacon-fried green tomatoes and beer sauce. $ D h f HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. One of the more unique restaurant spaces in town, Hammerheads is also one of the hippest. Adam Burress and Chase Murcerino, who share owner and chef duties, and fire up their BBQ smoker street-side, and fans far and wide flock to the semibasement space on the edge of Germantown to partake of pulled pork and beef brisket, pork and lamb ribs, roasted duck sandwiches, pork belly BLTs and soft shell crab tacos. $ D h HARD ROCK CAFÉ 424 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs at the local branch of this popular shrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, but you’ll have no com plaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ L D hpfe HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd., 459-9939. There are a lot of places to quaff craft beers in town, but Holy Grale’s frequently changing draft selection is among the most esoteric. Couple that with the seasonally adapted menu of chef Joshua Lehman and the oddity of being housed in a renovated church (the upstairs bar is aptly named “The Choir

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Loft”) and you have a unique dining and drinking experience. $ L D he JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ D pf JAZZYBLU 815 W. Market St., 992-3243. The basement space at Glassworks that formerly housed The Jazz Factory is bopping again with regularly scheduled live jazz performances Thurs. - Sun. nights, and southern comfort food style lunch buffets Tues. - Fri. $ L D hpe LOOP 22 2222 Dundee Rd. Chef Eric Morris has partnered with Adam Burress and Chase Mucerino — the guys behind Hammerheads and Game — and taken over the old Corner Door. Morris plans a menu featuring rotisserie and modern American cuisine influenced by flavors from around the world. $$ D

hpfe

MAJID’S ST. MATTHEWS 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 6182222. Long-time restaurateur and top-notch host Majid Ghavami’s current venture, in the heart of St. Matthews, offers a Mediterranean-American menu. The wine bar serves small plates, and focuses on American wines and an eclectic list from unusual locations — Lebanon, Israel, Greece and the Balkans. $$$ Br D pfe MANNY & MERLE 122 W. Main St., 290-8888. Tony Palombino’s latest addition to his eclectic local empire serves up contemporary Mexican street food (Mod Mex) and a funky bar menu that highlights an impressive collection of tequilas and Bourbons. A major C&W music venue, with live acts most nights of the week, featuring Nashville bands as well as local talent tending to the rawer, honkytonk end of the country spectrum. $ L D hpe MARKETPLACE RESTAURANT 651 S. Fourth St., 625-3001. Up front in the old Kentucky Theater is a deli and gourmet grocery. Behind the circular bar is the serene dining room, with a central hearth, and beyond that, a large enclosed patio. Chef Dallas McGarity’s seasonal menu cleverly fuses culinary concepts: crawfish arancini, duck confit ragout and curry-seared scallops, for instance. $$ L D hpf MATCH CIGAR BAR 207 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 725-7475. This classy cigar and Bourbon lounge specializes in elegant cocktails, premium cigars and offers a small menu including Bourbonmarinated steak, grilled chicken, burgers and cheeses. $$ D p MUSSEL & BURGER BAR 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 384-4834. Guaca Mole’s Fernando Martinez and his family stretch their ambitions and imaginations with an affordable “American bistro concept” featuring mussels with six different sauces, and 12 clever twists on burgers. Located in a strip mall just beyond the Hurstbourne Lane -Taylorsville Road intersection, it is worth seeking out, both for the food and for the comfy bistro atmosphere created in the cavernous space tricked out by former owners. L D hpe NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770, 2116 Bardstown Rd., 690-4161. Both locations of this long-time favorite offer hearty and unusual breakfast, satisfying lunches and dinners. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas and interesting entrées, it’s an appealing, affordable place to dine. $$ B Br L D hpfe RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands. Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu. Cuban. Jamaican. Greek. Middle Eastern. Moderate prices, a weekend brunch and late night hours add to the draw. $$ L D hpf RELISH 1346 River Rd., 587-7007. After a long hiatus from the restaurant scene, former Jack’s Fry’s owner 56 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com

Susan Seiller has returned with panache. What started as a lunch and takeout place is now a fullservice restaurant serving dinner six nights a week. An expansive wine and beer list bolsters a menu emphasizing fresh, simple and clean foods — dishes made with responsibly sourced ingredients using local products whenever possible. $$ L f RIVER CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 945-9463. Ten of owners Gary and Melissa Humphrey’s wines medaled in the June 2011 Indy International Wine Competition. Their honest, straightforward wines and Italian-inspired menu, featuring brink-oven pizzas, draw appreciative crowds. Don’t miss the crab cakes with black-eyed pea salsa. $$ Br L D e SIDEBAR AT WHISKEY ROW 129 N. Second St., 384-1600. On the west side of Whiskey Row, above Troll Pub under the Bridge, this new place focuses on burgers, Bourbon and beer, a potentially boffo combo for those going to or coming from the Yum! Center across the street. The emphasis is on craft cocktails served alongside a short but bold selection of sandwiches, appetizers and desserts. $$ L D hpe THE SILVER DOLLAR 1761 Frankfort Ave., 259-9540. The old firehouse in Clifton is now a honky tonk bar and restaurant, the music (all on vinyl) focused on the “Bakersfield sound” — a fusion of Mexicali and American roots music. The southern country-style menu with sophisticated nuances has been an immediate hit. Choose from more than 80 Kentucky Bourbons, ryes, tequila and mescal, but no “foreign whiskey” like Scotch. $$ Br L D hpf VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 708-1850. In the heart of Anchorage at the old train station is this two-level Euro-village inspired concept. On the upper level, a French bistro a la Moulin Rouge with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs at The Sea Hag the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food-style menu is served lunch and dinner with weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with more than 50 craft and import choices accompany 55 Bourbons to boot. $$$ Br L D hpf

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ L THE ANCHORAGE CAFÉ 11505 Park Rd., 708-1880. Upscale Anchorage has an eminently suitable place for breakfast, lunch and brunch — as well as a source of excellent espresso all day, and a take-out bakery offering quiches, scones, pies and tarts, cakes and cookies and sticky buns on weekends. Breakfast choices include oatmeal or toast and jam, among others; for lunch, hearty soups, salads and sandwiches, all made with local seasonal ingredients. $ B Br L D f AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite before hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ B L D hp ATLANTIC NO. 5 605 W. Main St., 883-3398. Michael Trager-Kusman, owner of Rye, was inspired by the name of long-ago iron workers’ lunch boxes when he named his new West Main Street place, a mashup of a deli and a bistro. The menu will play off what was offered by their favorite New York places: sandwiches, salads, rotisserie chicken, smoked fish, pork, lamb, house-made charcuterie and bagels at breakfast. $ B Br L pfe BLOOMS CAFÉ 307 Wallace Ave., 896-8008. Darnell “Superchef” Ferguson, the mastermind behind the pop-up breakfast concept around Louisville, has reopened the popular ladies’ lunch room in St. Matthews, keeping many of the menu ideas from

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previous owner Nancy Royce, but adding some of his own twists: candied bacon on Royce’s Benedictine, and turning her fruit salads into pineapple, blueberry or strawberry compotes. $ L BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. Tables are always at a premium at this popular Crescent Hill breakfast and lunch spot. And its artisanal bakery continues to produce hearty European-style breads that have set a gold standard on restaurant tables and in better grocery stores around town. $$ B L f BLUEGRASS CAFÉ 3819 Bardstown Rd., 459-2320. This little lunch spot in the Derby City Antique Mall in Buechel has a daily hot table buffet line plus a menu of soups, salads and sandwiches. On Sundays it offers a brunch buffet with a choice of breakfast and luncheon dishes. $ Br L BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. In the midst of the booming West Main Street arts and museum district, this lunch spot offers standard American café fare. $ L CAFÉ 27 145 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 948-9999. Downtown New Albany gets another addition to its eclectic dining scene with this new lunch and dinner spot. The nighttime menu emphasizes grilled dishes, while the lunch list includes a variety of sandwiches and unique salads, such as a roasted corn and steak salad and a bacon Bibb. $$$ L D hp CAFÉ AT MAIN STREET 10317 Watterson Trl., 267-5111. This bright, lively lunch place moved into the city from Bullitt County trailing loyalists and drawing new fans. A typical day of specials might include tomato cheddar or butterbean soup, asparagus and chicken quiche, warm brie spinach salad and a selection of house-made pies and cakes. $ B Br L CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Brownsboro Rd., 894-8929. Cuisine from around the world is featured at this East End neighborhood café, featuring homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ B L CAFÉ MONTAGU 1930 Bishop Ln., 451-6357. This breakfast and lunch place provides breakfasts and lunches mainly to the denizens of the Watterson Towers office complex. Home-style cooking, daily specials (meatloaf, pastas) and quick service keep the wheels of business rolling. $ B L CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot, owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as potato-chip-crusted whitefish, specialty pizzas, and lemon-tarragon chicken with orzo. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $ L D f CITY CAFÉ 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 500 S. Preston St., 852-5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ L CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 896-1488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $$ L D CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stores and maintains every bit of old-fashioned charm. Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers. Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ B L f CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg IN, 246-9339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to local Hoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Full breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A full range of standard lunch sandwiches, with

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Reubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials. Homemade soups and salads, too. $ B Br L f DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central Ave., (Kentucky Derby Museum) 634-0858. Lunch served year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such regional favorites as meaty burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ L pf EARTH FRIENDS CAFÉ AND COFFEE BAR 829 E. Market St., 749-8911. The emphasis at both locations is on vegetarian and vegan sandwiches, soups and salads, with a small “omnivore” selection. $ B Br L EMMA LOU’S CAFÉ 1327 Bardstown Rd., 456-4500. This long-time ladies’ lunch favorite, in an attractive old house on Bardstown Road, offers interesting, pleasant lunch fare, with very appealing dessert choices. $$ L

with cheese and ham, yogurt and granola, salads, soups and sandwiches like grilled mortadella with cheddar and mustard, benedictine and smoked salmon and Brie with pears and spinach. $$ B L p

munch, and just about everyone else with their sandwiches, pasta salads and tasty desserts. It caters parties with almost 50 choices of appetizers, party sandwiches, dips, cheese rings and crostini. $ L f

JAMBA JUICE 320 S. Fourth St., 581-0066. A national chain known best for its silky-frosty fruit smoothies, some of which are health focused (the carrot juice and orange-berry anti-oxidant blend is one example), Jamba has added some basic breakfast (oatmeal, wraps) and lunch items (flatbread pizza and toasted sandwiches) to broaden its appeal. $ L D

THE CHEDDAR BOX TOO 109 Chenoweth Ln., 896-1133. Cheddar Box owner Nancy Tarrant has extended her presence with a café just across the parking lot. Look for the same tasty salads, soups and desserts that have made her take-away business so popular. $ B L

KAYROUZ CAFÉ 3801 Willis Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ L D f

HIGHLAND MORNING 1416 Bardstown Rd., 3653900. You can order breakfast anytime at this Highlands space, with an eclectic menu that also encompasses brunch, burgers, soul food, Southern dishes and vegetarian fare as well. $ B L D h

LA PECHE GOURMET TO GO AND CAFÉ 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. Kathy Cary is returning to her roots with this newest version of her popular gourmet take-out counter, reinstalled in the private dining room in the corner of her restaurant, Lilly’s. The menu will feature “tried and true” dishes like grilled chicken pasta, burgers, vegetarian sandwiches, chicken salad, “lots of great produce, affordable cuts of meat” and a dessert case that will be sure to include strawberry pie. $$ B L D

J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistro-style alternative to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $$ B L pf

MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. This little lunch spot occupies a cozy old house in St. Matthews. Service is competent and polite, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-style fare is consistently fine. A selection of appetizing breakfast items rounds out a tasty mix. $ B L D f

JACKKNIFE CAFÉ 1201 Story Ave., 883-3228. Cellar Door Chocolates maven Erika Chavez-Graciano is branching out into the restaurant world with a little brunch (late breakfast — they’ll open at 10 a.m.) and lunch café inside the trendy Butchertown Market building. You will find breakfast biscuits

NONNIE’S KITCHEN 11601 Main St., Middletown, 245-4411. Nonnie’s Kitchen is one of the attractions of picturesque downtown Middletown for ladies who lunch. A mother-son team runs the pleasant space in an old house, serving a menu of soups, salads, sandwiches and desserts that delight a devoted clientele. $ L f

ERMIN’S BAKERY & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 6356960, 455 S. Fourth St. (Starks Bldg.), 585-5120. These popular bakeries attract crowds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted by French-style breads and pastries. $ B L

ORANGE CLOVER KITCHEN & MORE 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-1005. Find quick breakfast and lunch items here, such as the Orange Clover muffin: poppy seed and blood orange flavors with a blood orange drizzle, as well as a cupcake version with cranberries. Two soup specials offered every day out of a recipe rotation of 75 possibilities won’t result in many repeats. $ B L QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ B L f RIVERSIDE CAFÉ 700 W. Riverside Dr. (Sheraton Hotel), Jeffersonville IN, 284-6711. The breakfast room and bar of the Sheraton Riverside. Breakfast served until 10:30 a.m. Unwind at the bar at night. $$ B pf SHERRY’S CORNER CAFÉ 1051 Market St., Charlestown IN, 256-3722. Breakfast and lunch are served at this archetypical family eatery specializing in fresh, home-style cooking. $ L STRICKER’S CAFÉ 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 218-9882. Family style restaurant serving hearty soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, melts and breakfast too, in suburban Jeffersonville. $ B L TAKE OUT TO THE RIVER 9550 US Hwy. 42, 3652605. $ L D THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. You can see the traffic on East Broadway from The Café’s serene walled patio. Choose from an eclectic breakfast and lunch menu, including old favorites like tomato dill soup and chicken salad. Or eat inside and be amused at the yard-sale look of mismatched furniture and chandeliers and doorways to nowhere, reminiscent of its former location in an antique mall. $ B Br L f THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. For more than 25 years this St. Matthews tradition has delighted ladies who lunch, hungry students who 58 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com

VERBENA CAFÉ 10639 Meeting St., 425-0020. This Norton Commons eatery is open early for breakfast and serves hearty lunches till midafternoon, but you can order breakfast or lunch at any of those hours. $$ B L f WAYCOOL CAFÉ 120 W. Broadway, 582-2241. This value-priced restaurant is run by Wayside Christian Mission, which trains people in its community reentry program in restaurant service and management. Breakfasts of eggs or waffles might run $2.50-$3.50; sandwiches are $5-$7; and there is a lunch buffet: $5 for one pass-through; $8 for unlimited trips. Dinner menu too, with choices like fried shrimp or rib-eye steak. But if you only have a buck, you can get a chicken sandwich or a corn dog. It’s a dogooder place that serves good food. $ L D WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 6183449. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can now be found at this growing mini-chain’s third outlet. $ B Br L p WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 581-8561. Longtime high-end caterer Susan Hershberg adds a third foodservice operation with this new bakery and café operation on the corner of Breckinridge. She and her baker, Diana Rushing, look to being another source of artisanal breads, a food item the French know there cannot be too much of. $ B L WOLFGANG PUCK EXPRESS 221 S. Fourth St., 5620983. Bearing the name of the celebrity Austrian chef, this downtown lunch spot in the corner of the convention center offers tasty wraps, sandwiches and soups. $$ L YAFA CAFÉ 22 Theater Sq., 561-0222. $ L D

hf

ZIALALA CAFÉ 12220 Shelbyville Rd., 713-5803. The owners, of Venezuelan and Italian backgrounds, tout their Middletown eatery as a “Latin café with a European flair.” The eclectic menu includes arepas, pizzettes (individual thin-crust pizzas), muffuletta, egg salad sandwiches, panini and empanadas with Chilean, Puerto Rican and Jamaican flavors. $LD f

AMSHOFF’S FISH INN AGAIN 8402 Hudson Ln., 749-2379. If fish is your dinner wish, Amshoff’s has it fried, baked, broiled and grilled and all served with southern seasonings. There’s chicken, too, and lots of southern standard side dishes. $$ L D BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4124666. This franchise concept from the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ D hp CHARLESTOWN TRAIN STATION SEAFOOD 1041 Highway 62, Charlestown IN, 256-4200. A family friendly place with outdoor picnic-table seating and the kind of familiar fried fillets everyone likes. $ L D pf CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville

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Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. And now open until 8 p.m. most nights. $ L D

RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucketof-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ L D hpf

EAGLE LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Eagle Lake, a simple, downhome eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County. Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their stocked pay-to-fish lake. Note though, it’s not possible to have your catch fried for dinner. $$ L D f

SHARK’S FISH & CHICKEN 2001 S. Seventh St., 6372999. Several types of crunchy-breaded fried fish — white fish, shrimp, catfish, salmon — to choose from, as well as wings and side dishes like fried mushrooms and fried okra. Finish with appealing desserts such as chocolate cake, pineapple upside down cake or banana pudding. $ L D h

THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993. Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. And on weekends the space morphs into Café Beignet, serving hearty breakfasts and New Orleans-style beignets. $ Br L D f THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188, 11519 Shelbyville Rd., 409-4296. The original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ L D f FISHERY STATION 5610 Outer Loop, 968-8363. $$ LD HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to get by. It’s oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ L D f J J FISH & CHICKEN 1701 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2523. This recent addition to Jeffersonville offers up fried perch and catfish, shrimp and oysters, chicken dinners, Philly cheese steaks and gyros. Italian beef sandwiches too, and the usual sides, nicely done. $ L D h

CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-2298, 6325 River Rd., 3847466. Buck’s owner Curtis Rader’s idea to cook steaks and sides in cast iron pans at moderate prices hit such a popular nerve that he opened two more locations on the Kentucky side of the river. The ambience of all his places is upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music,” Rader promises. $$$ D hpf

renovation of the space at the corner of Fourth and Muhammad Ali has resulted in one of the largest dining spaces in town. The Ft. Wayne-based small chain with big ambitions boasts glittering mosaic artwork, a handsome bar opening onto Fourth Street, and luxurious seating in secluded nooks and corners. The menu focuses on high end steaks, well prepared seafood and seasonal specials. $$$$ L D hpe JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 5840102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ D hpe LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577, 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9789, 1540 Alliant Ave., 266-6009. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ L D hp

CATTLEMAN’S ROADHOUSE 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-7623, 139 Historical Trail, 543-3574. This local outlet of the small regional chain offers midpriced beef offerings and starters such as fried pickle chips and jalapeño poppers, grilled chicken, salmon, and plenty of sandwich choices. $$$ L D hp

LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5800, 4813 Outer Loop, 969-9790. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ L D hp

DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli Ave., 897-7077. Loyal Louisville beefeaters continue to fill up this 28year-old St. Matthews steakhouse, with its brick walls and beamed ceilings. Any red meat enthusiast would know to order the filet or Porterhouse, but only regulars know the glories of something called green phunque. $$$$ D hp

MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This belowground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ D hp

EDDIE MERLOT’S PRIME AGED BEEF 455 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 584-3266. The sumptuous

OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 8954329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399,

JACKSON’S SEAFOOD 400 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 945-3474. Joe Jackson, 13-year veteran of locallyfamed Clarksville Seafood, serves up fried, broiled or blackened fish, and rolled oysters. Fans of Jackson’s former employer will find many similarities in the food, but offered with customer-friendly service and rational, predictable hours. $ L D JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ L D hpf KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ L D hpfe MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925 and remains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ L D f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ L D hpf PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633. If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer or two, with no frills, this southside tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ L D fe

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1420 Park Place, Clarksville IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ D hp PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 8969234. A local favorite for fifty years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets, Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. $$$$ D pf PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 964-6117. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ L D RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’s Chris the best restaurant. It serves an excellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ D hpe RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088. This North Carolina-based chain offers family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buffet features more than 150 items. $$ L D STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ D hp TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy. (Green Tree Mall), Clarksville IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy., 448-0705, 6460 Dutchmans Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ L D hp

A NICE RESTAURANT 3129 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 280-9160, 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have launched two more branches. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ B L APPLEBEE’S (6 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ L D hp ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 239-2200. The entrepreneur who created Texas Roadhouse and Buckhead’s is back with a concept that’s both old and new — a lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ L D hp BIG FOUR BURGERS + BEER 134 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. The name responds to the popular Big Four railroad bridge turned into the biggest pedestrian draw in years, even before the Indiana ramp was finished. Once it is, Big Four Burgers + Beer will be among the new businesses ready to revive the cross-river strollers with comestibles and refreshments. $$ L D hpfe B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd.(Oxmoor Mall), 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including 60 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com

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a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Mall. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ L D hp BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln. (Crown Plaza Hotel), 367-2251. $$$ L D hp BLUEGRASS BURGERS 3334 Frankfort Ave., 6146567. Four women restaurateurs have partnered to offer a gourmet burger concept. Choose your burger — grass-fed Kentucky beef or bison, tuna or veggie (or grilled chicken, cheese steak or franks) — and then head for the topping bar. $ L D f BRICKHOUSE TAVERN & TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-3182. Brickhouse, a Houston-based chain, has upgraded its image with an increased focus on food. Serving brunch, lunch and dinner, with a half-dozen local beers on tap, and an unusual menu of beer cocktails. $$ L D hpf BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN 284-2919, 10206 Westport Rd., 339-0808. The deck of the riverfront location in Jeffersonville, with its view across the river, is a great place for a lazy summer meal, when the familiarity of allAmerican fare like meat loaf, pot pies, steak or ribs and a couple of cold ones is all you want. The big square bars in all three locations, with multiple TV screens, make for excellent sports viewing as well. $$ L D hpf BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132. This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ L D h f CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’s quick and casual secondfloor dining alternative, this spacious venue offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ L D hp CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ Br L D pfe CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure! Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $ L D hp CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville IN, 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ B Br L D pe

CHOP SHOP SALADS 436 W. Market St., 589-2467, 126 Breckinridge Ln., 384-4252. The two-handed mezzalunas rock steady as the line cooks chop up lettuce, vegetables and meats into hearty salads or wraps. Mostly a to-go place with limited seating, the steady lunchtime crowds attest that office workers see a need for fresh light lunch fare. $ L D COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 583-9165. The restored 137-year-old building has gone through some recent renovations, including a makeover on reality TV. The result is a remodeled secluded patio, revamped dining room and an eclectic menu that plays off standards in a fun way: chicken thigh sliders, a Hot Brown with a Brie mornay and pepper jam, panzanella salad and a whole crispy catfish with Thai chili sauce. $$$ L D pf CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001. When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain a popular East End spot. $ L D f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526, 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. Whether you drop in at the downtown location across from the Palace, or scoot out to the Harrod’s Creek outlet, you will find fine fish sandwiches and pub grub, and absorb some of the nostalgia associated with this longtime favorite. $ Br L D hpf DECKERS GRILLED SANDWICHES 2350 Greene Way, 491-3114. A burgeoning chain launched by White Castle sells hot soups, pressed sandwiches (the four cheese and bacon Decker sounds great) and desserts, as well as salads at affordable prices. No “sliders” here, but comparable prices. $ L D h FAMOUS MIKE’S STEAK & LEMONADE 3052 Wilson Ave., 618-0102. At first a curious culinary combination — steak and lemonade — but this little nearWest End place is a gem offering an eclectic range of quick comfort foods: chicken gizzard baskets, pizza rolls, cheese steaks, burgers and subs. $ L D h FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany IN, 944-9958, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshly-grilled burgers, big, smoky Kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries that are out of this world and a cheery rock’n’roll sensibility. $ L D GAME 2295 Lexington Rd., 618-1772. The guys behind Hammerhead’s have opened a build-your-own-burger joint in a funky, off-the-directly-beaten-path place once home to Cycler’s Café. Unique burger choices are made from ground duck, lamb, venison, antelope and wild boar. Bun choices range from brioche to pretzel to Kaiser roll. Toppings include smoked truffle mayo, cranberry-jalapeño jam, and pesto — you get the idea. Much fun, so far. $$ D f

CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ L D hpf

GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market St., 749-7100. Housed in a former service station in NuLu, Garage Bar serves up draft and bottled craft beers, Bourbons, seasonal cocktails and wine, pizzas from a woodfired brick oven and Southern specialties, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. The ham flight is not to be missed. $$$ D hpf

CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 3018181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ L D hp

GAVI’S RESTAURANT 222 S. Seventh St., 583-8183. This family-owned eatery has been around for decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Russian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Stroganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ B L

CHOCOLATE MARTINI BAR 1106 Lyndon Ln. (Westport Village), 384-1384. This unique combination of a crêperie, martini bar, sandwich, lunch and dinner spot and dessert bar allows you to get a banana split crêpe and a crème brûlée martini, a Reuben or fried baloney sandwich in the same sitting. Desserts and ice cream can be ordered to go. $$$ L D hpfe

GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ B Br L D GRADY’S BURGERS AND WINGS 3825 Taylor Blvd., 361-1106. The name says most of what you need to know. Ten flavors of wings, breaded, fried and sauced.

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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The hot wings and the honey BBQ are the biggest sellers. Deli sandwiches and gyros too. $ L D f GREEN LEAF NATURAL VEGETARIAN BISTRO 309 W. Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. Green Leaf serves up vegetarian fare in the new town center of University of Louisville. The menu has a pan-Asian focus, with noodles and fried rice and stir fries, as well as smoothies and bubble tea. $ L D HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 365-3388, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403, 303 W. Cardinal Blvd., 708-1818. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinks with a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ L D f HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standing reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ L D hpfe INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. IHOP fans can choose to go out to the East End or across the river to satisfy their jones for the national chain’s inimitable food. $ B L D h JOE & KATHY’S PLACE 5408 Valley Station Rd., 9355323. This family-run, home-cooking-from-scratch place has developed a loyal following among the Valley Station locals. The menu supplies expected standards like fried chicken, biscuits and gravy, but contemporary offerings like vegetable panini and pork tenderloin sandwich with pesto mayo are available, too. $ B L D JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going strong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually grown from a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ L D hpfe KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646. Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $$ L D h KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern has been a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978. Kern’s offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers, as well as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ L D pf LEGENDS Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. The hot and cold short orders are served up with riverboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts. $$ L D hpe MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 561-0024. $ B L MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588. This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where farmer Bob is folksy and country. This East End outlet has developed a following beyond those familiar with it from other locations. $$ B Br L D hpf THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433. A popular spot in the urban neighborhood where the Highlands meet Germantown, The Monkey Wrench offers comfort food with a stylish spin, top flight music, a relaxed ambience and welcoming service. A rooftop patio packs them in on warm evenings. $ L D hpfe 62 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com

MULLIGAN’S PUB AND GRILL 1801 Newburg Rd., 632-2818. Neighborhood institution Kaelin’s is gone, but Mulligans’ now holds down the fort. Although the “If you can’t stop, please wave sign” is still outside, inside, wood-paneled walls, a new horseshoeshaped bar and vintage wooden golf clubs show that a new game is afoot. The beer list now includes BBC craft beers and Irish imports. The menu is geared toward hearty sandwiches, pizza and steak and shrimp entrées. $$ L D hpf NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere, has expanded their craft beer selection. The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily. Coffee and desserts are always made fresh. Breakfast served until 2 p.m. $$ Br L D p NEW ALBANY ROADHOUSE 1702 Graybrook Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7777. $$ L D hp O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-andseafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ Br L D hp OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alternative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Breakfast Buffet and Executive Express Lunch Buffet. $$BBr L PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. This newly renovated casualdining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$ D hp PHILLY STEAK & BURGER 1578 Bardstown Rd., 451-6768. What once was the funky Ray’s Monkey House is now a streamlined space with modern décor, with open ceilings and a spiffy new back deck. On the menu are Philly cheesesteaks, burgers (including veggie versions), wraps, four hot dog choices, salads and sides. $$ L D hpf QUAD CAFÉ 103 Quartermaster Ctr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-7823. Bistro dining in the always-changing Quadrangle Station in Jeffersonville. Expect a broad lineup of gourmet burgers, flat bread pizzas, an oyster bar on Friday and Saturday nights, daily lunch specials and a full bar. $ L Dpf RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ L D hpf RAISING CANE’S 10490 Westport Rd., 425-4040. A national chain with a single core product — chicken fingers. This replacement for the old Twister’s Custard brings simple and straightforward fried chicken finger combos and sandwiches with slaw and fries on the side. $ L D f RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001. This Seattle-based chain serves up its well regarded “gourmet burgers” and trimmings in two East End locations. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ L D hpf ROOSTER’S 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 590-3391. This Columbus-based wings-andbrews chain conquered Ohio and is now spreading its franchise wings across the Eastern U.S. Its first three Louisville properties have gained popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ L D hpf

RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-5010. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ L D hp THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311. The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eatery in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations from Generation X’ers to aging hippies. The owners are scaling back, though, and opening only on Fridays and Saturdays. $ D hp SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 3800 Payne Kohler Rd., Clarksville IN, 945-9757, 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-2323. Sam Anderson has been feeding an army of happy diners at both locations for almost two decades now. Both Clarksville and Floyd’s Knobs addresses offer his extensive and child friendly menu.$$ L D hp SAM’S HOT DOG STAND 1991 Brownsboro Rd., 259-7587. Early adopters speak highly of this new little shop in lower Clifton. Substantial hotdogs and rave-worthy pulled pork BBQ at reasonable prices are drawing in happy customers. $ L D SHONEY’S 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904, 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 423-6388. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ B L D SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 9980 Linn Station Rd., 429-5773, 4024 Dutchmans Ln., 721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-4020. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ L D h SMASHBURGER 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 326-4141, 312 S. Fourth St., 583-1500. A growing chain located mostly in the West and the South now has two Kentucky locations serving made-to-order Angus beef burgers, and is looking to open up to four more locations. $ L D f STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bardstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr., 326-3625, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ B L D h SUPERCHEF’S BREAKFAST 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 8953270. Inside Chicago Gyro you will find Sullivan grads Darnell Ferguson and Ryan Bryson offering an ambitious morning menu including beignets and coffee, granola-encrusted French toast, red velvet pancakes and peanut butter and jelly oatmeal. $ B f TACO PUNK 736 E. Market St., 584-8226. Gabe Sowder, formerly of 610 Magnolia, set out on his own serving funky tacos at the Douglass Loop Farmer’s Market. But now the Iron Chef alum (he was part of Edward Lee’s 2010 winning team) has taken over the old Toast on Market space to continue his exploration of everyone’s favorite “Mexican” food. House-made tortillas packed with ingredients ranging from traditional to the unique — duck, lamb and chorizo — make up the bill of fare. $ L D hf TGI FRIDAY’S 416 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ L D hpf

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


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THAT PLACE ON GOSS 946 Goss Ave., 409-5409. Located inside the Antique Mall in the old textile mill, That Place serves hearty and cleverly tweaked lunch fare and Sunday brunch. They are especially fond of their Meaty Jack, a meatloaf sandwich, grilled and topped with Jack cheese and their special sauce. Art on the walls is from friends at Mellwood Art Center, where owners Amy and William Enix initially started. $ Br L TOAST ON MARKET 620 E. Market St., 569-4099, 141 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 941-8582. On both sides of the river this breakfast and lunch favorite has gained a loyal following and tremendous word-of-mouth. Be prepared to wait for tables for weekend brunches. $ B Br L pf TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany IN, 944-9999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ L D hp TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ B L D h W.G. GRINDERS 430 W. Jefferson St., 569-7737. This Ohio-based sandwich and soup chain gives office workers downtown another option. Grinders (what I always called “subs,” way back east), strombolis, salads, pasta and personal-sized pizzas are among the choices. $ Br L THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ L D hf ZAXBY’S 2740 Allison Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 920-0080, 807 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 742-8600, 5025 Mud Ln., 632-1400, 2870 Technology Ave., New Albany IN, 725-7484, 10715 Dixie Hwy., 271-6990. They have been all around us out in the state, but now Louisville and Southern Indiana have their own Zaxby’s, the casual dining chain that cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wings and fingerz — that sort of thing. $ L D h

COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ L COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Longtime neighborhood fixture Cottage Inn has a bright new look, and continues happily doling out the kind of excellent down-home food it has served for more than 70 years. $ L D D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty breakfasts bring droves to this classic greasy spoon. Saturday morning hours are sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’s is a hard place to beat. $ B L D DAISY MAE’S 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany IN, 9446237. In the old Lancaster’s building in downtown New Albany, Daisy Mae’s has set out to offer the best in southern food and hospitality. The menu offers fried chicken and cod, meatloaf, mashed potatoes, collards and pinto bean soup every day. Look for daily specials that include a regularly rotating fruit cobbler and red velvet cake to finish off your meal. $ L D f DAVE & PEG’S COPPER KETTLE 276 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 256-4257. $ B L D DRE’LYNNS SOUL FOOD KITCHEN 5019 Poplar Level Rd., 384-7685. $$ L D FOOD 4 UR SOUL 612 S. Fifth St., 614-6363. This corner space at Fifth and Chestnut offers up soulful favorites: fried catfish, rib tips, pork chops (grilled, fried, or smothered), sweet potato casserole, fried mac and cheese, and fried bologna sandwiches. $$ L D

(including politicians and national entertainers) are no longer bereft. Jay’s former owners serve up Southern Soul food in Shively at family-friendly prices. Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $LD FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 883-1462. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ L D GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 5362 Dixie Hwy., 447-6660, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville IN. 2582540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $BLD HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-3320. This chain serves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ B L D INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970 Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8980, 1085 Market St., Charlestown IN, 256-3780. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ L D h KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $LDh

FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ L D

KUM’S KAFE 4125 Preston Hwy., 964-6336. Crispy fried chicken and fried catfish, as well as daily Asian specialties. $ L

FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 448-8044. Long-time fans of Jay’s Cafeteria

LE BOSSIER CAFÉ 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 208-9291. This new place in the space that used to

BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Brownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ B L D h BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitable place in the West End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all homecooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ L D CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The chili and the bean soup are particularly recommended. $ L D pf THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg IN, 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ L D CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ L D h

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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be Expressions of You made news because it intends to be a unionized restaurant, represented by United Food and Commercial Workers Union. The menu is Creole and home-style food. $ L D

HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Story Ave., 583-0437. Doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, they attract customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ B L D

MISS C’S KITCHEN & PANTRY 1319 Story Ave., 759-1085, 308 W. Chestnut St., 992-3166. You will find traditional recipes using locally-sourced foods, such as pimento cheese made with Kenny’s white cheddar and tuna salad using the recipe from Stewart’s Orchid Room at both locations. $$ L

JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454-7286. This 40-year-old family-owned restaurant knows how to cook for folks missing their home table. Count on an attentive staff and fresh southern fare. $ B L

NANA’S COUNTRY KITCHEN 5300 Cane Run Rd., 384-6525. When you want home-style cooking, you will want it like it is served here. Breakfast all day, lunch and dinner too. The regulars like the meatloaf and the chicken fried steak. $ B L D O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites, available from breakfast to dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $ B L D hp SHELIA’S SOUTHERN STYLE CUISINE 2017 Brownsboro Rd., 893-8855. A family owned and family friendly place making scratch traditional southern family dishes. The ribs and two sides is the most expensive item on the menu at $12.95. Look for catfish too, and collards on the side choices. Daily $6 lunch specials. $ L D SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. This Smoketown institution draws hungry locals as well as celebrities in town hungry for the soul food of their youth. BBQ ribs, and hot-water cornbread cooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chicken wings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley Mae Beard’s spice rack — salt and pepper. $ L D SUNDAY’S HOME COOKING & BBQ 701 Algonquin Pkwy., 716-3074. You can go up to the takeout window here and order the fixin’s for Sunday dinner any time. Fried chicken, long-cooked beans and greens, mac and cheese and BBQ ribs, rib tips and pulled pork. Chicken wings, fried catfish and whiting too, plus sweet potato pie for dessert. Takeaway only. $ D TERRI ANN’S 2605 Rockford Ln., 449-9026. A homestyle restaurant in Shively serving eggs, taters, sandwiches, barbecue and soul food for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $ B Br L D WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800. A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round. Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ B L WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery store houses a delicious secret: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfort food. Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $ B L

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2667. This bustling eatery is cafeteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ L D THE BISTRO 3701 Frankfort Ave., 714-5586. A gem hidden away in The Olmsted, on the Masonic Home grounds in St. Matthews. This spot has earned terrific word-of-mouth buzz. Soups, sandwiches, salads, pastas are the mainstay of the menu, with a four-item lunch buffet that changes weekly. $ B Br L D f CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli offers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-andsalad bar, and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic creation. $ L 64 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com

LANCASTER’S CAFETERIA 408 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-4200. Troy Lancaster, the grandson of Southern Indiana catering king Tommy Lancaster, recalls the family’s culinary heritage with this family-friendly buffet-style cafeteria. $ L D PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gardener’s list of vegetables and a few ethnic dishes for global measure. $ L D

THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275. On the ground floor a 60-seat restaurant and 30-seat lounge. On the second floor is the 70-seat Bard’s Town Theatre home to a resident troupe dedicated to producing new works from Kentucky playwrights and beyond, to other theatre, poetry and musical acts from around the country. Food and beverage service, but it’s not a dinner theater. $$ D hpfe DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes. The expansive seasonal buffet offerings have fans returning show after show. $$$$ L D pe HOWL AT THE MOON 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 562-9400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub featuring a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ D hpfe INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790. “Awesome dining, extreme fun, where family fun hits maximum overdrive” is the promise at this giant dining and entertainment venue. It’s not just for kids: an upscale menu in a signature dining room is at the center of it all. $$ L D hp JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$$ L D pf MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ L D p

ACHILLES PIZZA 1730 Williamsburg Sq., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8882. $$ L D h ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $$ L D ANGIO’S RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 4515454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $$ L D ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4771 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-toorder pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches

such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $$ L D h ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-9805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $$ L D h ARNO’S PIZZA 3912 Bardstown Rd., 384-8131.$$ L D BEARNO’S PIZZA (12 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 13 locations. $$ L D h BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 9355540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ L D h BOOMBOZZ FAMOUS PIZZA 3400 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090. This handsome space at the corner of Frankfort and Cannons Lane is another idiosyncratic link in the Boombozz chain. The taphousestyle menu of pastas and sandwiches along with award-winning pies carves its own niche with bottled beer exclusively. $$ B Br L D hf BOOMBOZZ PIZZA BISTRO 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. Boombozz wins praise for exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style fare. Tony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-style specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ L D hp BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & TAP HOUSE 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN (opening in Dec). The Boombozz Pizza empire has expanded in concept, and the menu now extends into appetizers, sandwiches and pasta, and 21 craft beers on tap. The Highlands location boasts one of the only “frost bars” in the area — a refrigerated rail designed to keep your brew cool. $$ L D hpf BORROMEO’S PIZZA 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 9687743. Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $$ L D h CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ L D pf CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ L D CHEEZY’S PIZZA 801 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8500. Fans of the former Tubby’s Pizza and owner Tubby Muncy can smile again. He’s back in the kitchen in a little local pizza joint just east of downtown J’ville, serving up well crafted traditional pies whole or by the slice. $$ L D h CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfort Ave., 893-3730. One of the originators of “Louisville style” of pizza, with additional toppings placed over the cheese. The venerable Clifton’s Pizza appeals with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with grown-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. $$ L D hpe COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3730 Frankfort Ave., 7428200. The coal-fired oven bakes at 1000 degrees F, charring and crisping the crust in 4 minutes. The dough rises for three days, making for a lighter, more developed crust. Topping are fresh, regionallysourced, with specialty concepts. Look for local craft beers and house-made soups and salads in addition to pizzas. $$ L D hpf

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DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1567 S. Shelby St., 635-7994. $$ L D h

KENNA’S KORNER 4111 Murphy Ln., 426-8340. $$ L D he

DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 6183424, 917 Baxter Ave., 614-8424. With a second location now, Highlands’ as well as St. Matthews’ residents can savor pizza by the slice, as well as by the mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilled sandwiches, salads, wings, and queso sticks, and a good selection of domestic and import beers. $$ L D hpf

LITTLE CAESAR’S PIZZA (9 Locations) This Detroitbased pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ L D h

FX PIZZA 4865 Old Vincennes Rd., Floyds Knobs IN, 903-0086. The Newton brothers of Southern Indiana, veterans of the corporate chain pizza world, have named their own pizzeria after their grandfather, Francis Xavier. In addition to hand-tossed thincrust, New York-style pies, FX offers chicken wings and breadsticks, and its owners are planning a nine-hole miniature golf course. $$ L D FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10619 Manslick Rd., 363-7551. $$ L D h FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555, 12216 Shelbyville Rd., 244-2500. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd. $$ L D h

LOUI LOUI’S AUTHENTIC DETROIT STYLE PIZZA 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 266-7599. Detroit style? It’s a fluffy-deep-crusted rectangular pie baked a good while to give the crust crispiness. Detroit native Michael Spurlock used to make road trips to satisfy a sick friend’s cravings, then made a study of it, and now brings it to the old Ferd Grisanti location in J’town. $$ L D hp e LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. Also known as Chubby Ray’s, this local pizzeria makes good, fresh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $$$ L D hpf LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. New York Citystyle pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, has been making inroads in River City, but Luigi’s was one of the first to offer in its authentic form here. $$ L

HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2454555. Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and cold beer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ L D h

MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $$ L D h

IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ LDh

MARCO’S PIZZA 2011 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-1144. A rapidly growing (300+) pizza chain from Toledo, Ohio, adds to the choices of takeout pies in New Albany. Ironically, its CEO lives in Louisville and commutes to Toledo. $$ L D h

JOHNNY BRUSCO’S PIZZA 10600 Meeting St., 7498400. This Kansas City chain’s fist foray into the area chose wisely in settling in Norton Commons. There you can find New York style pies, subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D JOHNNY V’S 10509 Watterson Trail, 267-0900. $$ L D hp

MELLOW MUSHROOM 3920 Shelbyville Rd., 4096874, 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-6112. This small pizza/calzone/hoagie/salad chain touts its stoner origins, as the chain’s name, and some of its offerings

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

such as magic mushroom soup and Maui Wowie pizza, imply. Though a chain, each outlet tries to be funky in an individualistic, local way. $$ L D p MIMO’S PIZZERIA 2708 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 945-7711. People move to the Knobs for its bucolic setting, but locals still crave their pizza fix. Mimo’s provides that with daily specials, such as Buffalo pizza, calzones, heroes, wraps or salads. Mangia, mangia! $$ L D p MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-5005, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for more than 30 years. $$ L D MUCHO QUESO PIZZERIA 2208 Bardstown Rd., 479-1040. $$ L D h NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. $$ L D h OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700, 10601 Fischer Park Dr., 657-5700. This growing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, along with amusing appetizers (jalapeño cheese pretzels, Italian nachos), filling salads, sandwiches and burgers. Check out the imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ L D hp ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 454-2711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 110 W. Main St., 589-4900. Impellizzeri’s pizzas, massive

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pies loved for a generation, can now be scarfed down near the arena on Main, in addition to its Highlands and Brownsboro Road locations. $$$$ L D hpf PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made from quality ingredients in a straightforward style. $ L D h PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (11 Locations) $$ L D PAPALINOS 947 Baxter Ave., 749-8515. Former restaurant chef turned pizza guy Allan Rosenberg continues to satisfy his Highlands customers with his crispy-crust New York-style pizzas with premium, made in-house toppings. Take home an 18-inch pies, scarf down an oversized slice for a snack, or make a meal from the calzones, breadsticks and short list of salads and desserts. $ L D h PERFETTO PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 426-4644. Located in the old Slice of NY space off S. Hurstbourne Parkway, Perfetto carries on the New York style tradition: pies by the slice, just like on Flatbush Ave. Hand-tossed crust, all kinds of toppings, plus Italian sausage and meatball sandwiches. $$ L D PIZZA DONISI 1396 S. Second St., 213-0488. Magnolia Bar & Grill, 213-0488. Popular with Old Louisville hipsters, the “Mag Bar” has long needed a nearby pizza joint. Now it has it and it’s owned by Danny Fitzgerald, impresario behind Mag Bar. Stop by or phone in for delivery, or get a pie while you quaff beer at Mag Bar. Get it by the slice or in whole artisan pies of 9-, 14- and 18-inches, along with appetizers, fries with curry ketchup, fried ravioli and more. $$ L D hf PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 2828286. The pizza is baked in a sturdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ L D PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $$ L D

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PLEASURE RIDGE PIZZA AND SPORTS BAR 5603 Greenwood Rd., 933-7373. $$ L D hpf PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-0170. A small but growing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its first Louisville property on Shelbyville Road. Thin pizza by the slice and other Italian-American dishes are served in an attractive setting that’s a cut above fast food. $$ L D ROCKY’S PIZZA & PANINI 3022 Bardstown Rd., 690-8500. Need a quick lunch, and have a hankering for the classic Italian subs and pizzas that you have enjoyed for decades at Rocky’s? Now you can get them quick and to go at this counter-service only branch in the outer edge of the Highlands. $ L D

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ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844. Rocky’s is reinventing itself by going back to its roots. Gone is the “Italian Grill” appellation, and back is the Sub Pub theme, along with a growing selection of craft and import beers and a select choice of Italian-American entrées. Go to enjoy a pizza, some baked ziti or chicken parmigiana and some hoppy draft. $ L D hpf ROSIE’S PIZZA 13829 English Villa Dr., 244-2484. This Middletown pizzeria has been wowing customers for a while with its store-made crusts, and wide choice of toppings. Fans seem to go for the Whole Lot of Rosie, and the Hot Knots. $$ L D SAL’S PIZZA & WINGS 812 Lyndon Ln., 365-4700. Pizza, calzones, chicken and salads join the food choices in the Lyndon strip mall that also houses other ethnic restaurants. $$ L D hpf SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 629 S. Fourth St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtown 66 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com

storefront offers good, standard pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $$ L D h f SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 496 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $$ L D h f SNAPPY TOMATO 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 4126205. $$ L D SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 2905 Goose Creek Rd., 632-2832, 4001 Shelbyville Rd., 895-0755, 239 S. Fifth St., 749-0919, 8610 Dixie Hwy., 614-5300. This locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their massive pizza by the slice, has expanded to four locations. All are open until 5 a.m. nightly Wednesday through Saturday, offering Philly-style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ L D h STUDIO PIZZA 1401 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville IN, 288-6600. Owner Steve Baldwin serves up Chicagostyle pie, calzones and other tipico Italiano fare, with a performance stage ready for pro performers or karaoke. $$ L D TEENA’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 785-4344. Teena’s has taken over the long-standing Frolio’s Pizza building on the corner of Trevilian Way and Poplar Level Rd. The lunch buffet, with vegetable choices and three heat levels of chicken wings, in addition to pizza, gives this neighborhood pizza joint a bit of distinction. $$ L D hpf TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 949-3000. Long-time Louisville pizzamaker moves across the river to fill the cravings of Hoosiers. $$$ D UNCLE MADDIO’S PIZZA JOINT 2011 Grinstead Dr., 690-8871. This small chain, from the guys behind Moe’s Southwest Grill, seems to have settled in comfortably at the corner of Bardstown and Grinstead. Order at the counter from a range of custom choices and your pizza gets delivered to your table. $$ L D VITO’S PIZZA 1919 S. Preston St., 634-1003. A little neighborhood pizza pub on the edge of Germantown has been serving up its signature pies to neighbors and commuters who pick up pies before they get on nearby I-65 to head home. $$ L D hp WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 225 State St., New Albany IN, 945-9425, 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., (Ramada Plaza) 409-4267. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all five of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $$ L D hpfe ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ L D hpf

321 DELI 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. The dining and drinks complex on the corner of Third and Main offers something for everyone. This is the deli component (the others are an ice cream shop and a bourbon bar), which strives to blend the look and feel of a New York deli with the charm of the South. Lunch on nicely done sandwiches constructed from meats roasted in house, gourmet salads and sides to go. $ L D f ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patronize a carpet shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ L BABY D’S BAGELS & DELI 2009 Highland Ave., 365-3354. This Highlands deli serves steamed bagel sandwiches and wraps, made with housesmoked and roasted meats. Look for funky sandwich names and desserts such as chocolatecovered bacon. $ B L D h BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945. The open flame at this counter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout.

Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ L D BOARDWALK FRESH BURGERS AND FRIES 2909 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 725-0200. With outlets in 12 states, Boardwalk now brings their fresh fries and burgers concept to the Ohio Valley. A step up from fast food with large patties that can be dressed to one’s whim. $$ L D BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ali Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ L f BRUEGGER’S BAGELS 119 Breckenridge Ln., 6181158. The bagel/deli/sandwich chain has set up shop in the middle of St. Matthews, offering another quick breakfast and lunch option. Choose from bagels and breakfast sandwiches, muffins, panini, salads and soups. $ B L f BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ B L D h BUTCHER’S BEST 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully staffed meat store in Prospect offers customcut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ L D f CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ L CHEF MARIA’S GREEK DELI 102 Fairfax Ave., 8957075. $ L D DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ B L DEVINO’S 104 W. Main St., 569-3939. This stylish deli offers another lunch and dinner option downtown. Sandwiches are made from quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the premises, with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ L D f DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ L D hf DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 426-3354. This convenient deli specializes in bagels, as the name implies. Breakfast means fresh bagels with an array of cream cheese, sausage, eggs and coffee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches — subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ B L DP UPDOGS 147 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 9480768. The long-lived but now defunct Little Chef diner at the corner of New Albany’s Market and Bank Streets has a new life and identity. Stop in for a variety of wiener concoctions, or an ice cream sandwich. $ f EINSTEIN BROTHERS BAGELS 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 217-6046. Nothing beats a bagel and a schmear of cream cheese — unless it’s a bagel, a schmear, and a generous slab of lox. For those who don’t live on bagels, a good selection of soups, salads and sandwiches offer quick sustenance at this branch of the national chain. $ B L f

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THE FEED BAG 133 Breckenridge Ln., 896-1899. The grilled salmon burger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, desserts top off the lunch-only schedule. $ L FIREHOUSE SUBS 215 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3653473. This national chain touts that they steam their meat and cheese sandwiches. Specialty subs carry out the Firehouse theme and the kids meals include a little fire helmet. $ L D FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI & PIZZERIA 4113 Murphy Ln., 243-9005. This shop offers Italian-style deli sandwiches and pizza, plus home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ L D hf HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-6001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany IN, 941-9426. Before holidays, you go in and carry out huge spiral-sliced hams or turkey breasts or beef roasts for your own parties. In the off season, you sit down in the café and order generous, filling sandwiches made from those same meats, served on rolls or croissants, cold or with a hot cheese melt. Soup and salads too. And cookies. $ L D JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 896-0150, 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-4130. Don’t look for a New York kosherstyle deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ L D f JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 9156 Taylorsville Rd., 499-9830. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ L D JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 976 Baxter Ave., 587-0550, 4000 Shelbyville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 Dutchmans Ln., 894-9393, 415 W. Jefferson St., 625-7101, 301 E. Market St., 587-7888, 1321 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-4515, 3001 Charlestown Crossing Way, New Albany IN, 725-8580, 1116 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6700, 12903 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8884, 341 W. Cardinal Blvd., 634-3334. This national sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ L D f LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 454-7831. Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semi-fast food. $ L D f LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380, 8129 Preston Hwy., 5093640. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. A second location brings the Windy City fare to Okolona. $ L D f LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. A Louisville pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand threedeep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfortable place to have coffee and pastry or to eat your sandwich. $ L D f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ L MAIN STREET CAFÉ 217 E. Main St., 992-8080. This ambitious downtown place offers a range of breakfasts choices from light pastries and yogurt to omelets, waffles, and, thoughtfully, pie for breakfast (changes seasonally). For lunch look for sandwiches made from house-smoked and cured pastrami, sorghum bacon and other artisanal foods, as well as daily specials on soups, and a Kentucky

farmer-inspired seasonal salad. An ever-changing small plate dinner menu will be rolled out in late November. $ B L D f MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6510 Bardstown Rd., 2399997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3354, 1200 S. Floyd St. (U of L), 825-2285, 4677 Outer Loop, 969-3328, 980 Breckenridge Ln., 895-1698. Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ L D MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668, 555 S. Second St. (YMCA building), 5872353. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare both in the Highlands and at the YMCA downtown. $ L MUSCLE MONKEY GRILL 9565 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8807, 9463 Westport Rd., 420-0707, 180 W. Spring St., New Albany IN, 949-4430, 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5624. This small but growing local chain, founded by Steve and Jill Mazzoni and their friend Jason McCune, specializes in health and nutrition supplements and vitamins. $ B L D NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004. An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton, this little outlet, inside Theater Square Marketplace, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ B L NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfort Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Offerings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ B L f OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ L PANERA BREAD CO. 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 899-9992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 635-9164, 1040 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9400, 400 W. Market St., 540-5250, 1801 Rudy Ln., 710-0297, 1534 Bardstown Rd., 459-8160. Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ B L D f PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5070, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ L D PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ L D POTBELLY SANDWICH SHOP 302 S. Fourth St., 5401100, 4023 Summit Plaza Dr., 420-9616. This local outpost of the Chicago chain offers substantial sandwiches, salads and even breakfast sandwiches and oatmeal both to the downtown lunch crowd along Fourth St., and out at the Summit in the eastern suburbs. $ L D PRIMO’S DELICATESSEN 153 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 913-4715. It’s just what New Albany needed, a little New York style to give East Coast pizzazz to the downtown dining choices. Serving

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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breakfast and lunch, so look for bagels and a schmear, and meaty sandwiches piled high. Dine-in or carry out six days a week. $ Br L QUIZNO’S SUBS (7 locations) Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ L RED’S COMFORT FOOD 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 587-7337. Across from Louisville Gardens, “Red” offers gourmet wieners and sausages, chicken barbecue topped with coleslaw and vegetarian side dishes, many made with locally sourced products. Red closes for the winter, though, so his fans have to wait til spring. $ L f SAE CAFÉ 200 S. Seventh St., 585-3400. This spunky downtown breakfast and lunch place has goals of serving more healthful — and tasty — choices. Muffins and other breakfast pastries are by Najla’s, a Louisville baker that uses no trans-fats, corn syrup or preservatives. The sandwiches have clever names — Angry Bob, Hail to the Chief, Mexi Mama wrap and the Knuckle sandwich — and there are also salads and daily soup specials. $ B L SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 4258447. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ B L D f SCOTTY’S VILLAGE MARKET 10640 Meeting St., 384-6338. A grocery store and deli joins the retail mix at Norton Commons. In keeping with the Village theme, the store will evoke the feel and ambience of the old local grocery, in addition to doing on-site baking, smoking meats, and offering full to-go dinners. $ L D f SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. Another attractive East End storefront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good reviews for simple breakfast and lunch fare served in friendly surroundings. $ Br L f THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ L STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 5843354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ L SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075. The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ L D TC’S SANDWICH SHOPPE 438 W. Market St., 5819200. $ L THORNBERRY’S DELI & PIES 5103 S. Third St., 367-8394. $ L TOM + CHEE 1704 Bardstown Rd., 409-9494, 319 W. Cardinal Blvd., 749-2299, 111 St. Matthews Ave., 893-3575. The Cincinnati-based soup and sandwich chain now has three locations. Its hook is serving many variations on grilled cheese sandwiches (including a grilled cheese donut that has gained TV notoriety) and tomato (and other) soups. Daily specials augment the 15 core menu choices. $ L D f W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. This locally owned and operated eatery looks a lot like the national Fuddruckers chain, but the local boys do a better job, with huge burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ L D h 68 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com

WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way (Jewish Hospital), 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will serve in-house diners or take orders for deliveries. Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ L D ZOUP! 318 S. Fourth St., 963-0777. Another chain outlet downtown gives all the lawyers and government workers another choice for soups, sandwiches and salads, plenty of low-fat, dairy-free and vegetarian choices that will rotate daily. $ L D

HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 CharlestownNew Albany Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4490. Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce. A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ L D HICKORY HOUSE BBQ & CATERING 2307 S. Preston St., 634-9111. $ L D f JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ L D f

ATYPICAL MAN BBQ 119 St. Matthews Ave., 8933925. Can there be too many BBQ joints in town? Nah. And this one is in a well-traveled part of St. Matthews, handy to the neighborhood and the many who come through for shopping. Stop in for all the usuals — pulled pork and brisket and smoked chicken, done juicily, with choice of sauces on the side, and solid side dishes like slaw and beans. $ L D

MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 285-1998, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 442-0808. Mark Erwin started this chain in an old Hancock’s Feed Store. Today, Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked takehome turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ L D h f

B3Q BBQ 1044 Copperfield Drive, Georgetown IN, 951-3900. Ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket, served up as sandwiches, wraps or platters. Also, smoked baloney and chicken, smoked turkey and sirloin tips, and plenty of side choices. Dine-in, carry-out and catering available. $ L D f

MOMMA’S MUSTARD PICKLES & BBQ 102 Bauer Ave., 938-6262. The Okie owner of this spot brings Kansas City barbecue to St. Matthews. Knot on your bib for smoked ribs, brisket, chicken, pulled pork and all the standard sides. Lots of hefty party packs perfect to-go options. $$ D f

BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 4099422. (See review under Bar & Grill.)

OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ L D f

BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657. Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ L D f BRANDON’S BBQ & PIZZA 9901 LaGrange Rd., 4266666. Hickory-smoked Tennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, affordable dinners. $ L D FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 493-2812, 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ L D hpf FEAST BBQ 116 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 9200454. Owner Ryan Rogers, graduate of the French Culinary Institute, brings a modernist sensibility to the age-old art of barbecue. He works out formulas for brining times, and trusts the electronic circuitry of his high-tech smoker to keep the temps low and keep the smoke from overwhelming he meats. He also boasts one of the largest selections of Bourbon in southern Indiana. $ L D hpf FIRE FRESH BBQ 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171. Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that Fire Fresh BBQ pays homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ L D FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. $ L D pf GREGG’S BBQ JOINT 822 State St., New Albany IN, 987-1623. Gregg prides himself on being “old school,” with “low and slow” barbecue, the way it should be done. He serves up ribs and pulled pork, brisket and chicken, and his fans seem especially taken with his collards greens.$ L D

PINK BARON BBQ 400 W. Court Ave., 835-7361. $LD RIVER ROAD BBQ 3017 River Rd., 592-7065. Right next to the Water Tower, this little take-out only place smokes brisket and pork: some days one sells out, on other days the other. Winter hours are 116 or until the meat runs out. Potato salad, slaw and drinks. Buy it by sandwich or by the pound. $ L D ROB-A-QUE 4712 Pinewood Rd., 618-3007. Owner Rob Bailey was a hobbyist BBQ competitor for years until selling his share in a family tool business to turn pro. His smoked meats reflect a Kansas Citystyle of ’cue, and his side dishes are numerous. Check it out for lunch, to-go or catering. $ L f RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find a bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ L D hpfe SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la carte and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ L D hp SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. This Fairdale institution since 2004 smokes and serves slow-smoked pulled pork, brisket, ribs and a dozen sides (including Nanny’s potato salad) from an 1896 log house. Specialty is hickory-grilled steaks on Friday and Saturday nights. $ L D fe SHANE’S RIB SHACK 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 429-3907. “Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches and more at this growing Atlanta-based chain. $$ L D f SMOKEHOUSE BBQ 5414 Bardstown Rd., 239-4422. This smokery on Bardstown Road just past Hurstbourne offers baby back and spare ribs, pulled pork, brisket, chicken and burgers, along with home-cooked sides like collard greens, sweet potato fries and onion loaf. Finish off with a coconut cream pie or chocolate cobbler. $$ L D p SMOKETOWN USA 1153 Logan St., 409-9180. The name “Smoketown” points to the restaurant’s location in this legendary midtown neighborhood, while

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


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signaling there’s consistently fine and cleverly fused Memphis- and Texas-style barbecue to be found here. Irrepressible owner Eric Gould maintains his neighborhood spot also is about vegetarian food and yard sales, and everything in the store is for sale (artwork on the walls, furniture, even the salt shakers, just make an offer). You’ll also find live entertainment three nights weekly. $$ L D f SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A property of Orlando’s Darden fastfood chain, which also runs Olive Garden and Red Lobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveys more of a sports-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ L D hp TEXICANS BBQ PIT 6608 Hwy. 146, Crestwood. 2419227. A small, neighborhood place just off I-71 in Crestwood pleases fans with standard barbecue fare — pulled pork, brisket and ribs — as well as smoked sausage, chicken and boneless chops. Cinnamon apples join the usual side selection of green beans, slaw and mac and cheese. $ L D

30 RED SPORTS SALOON 9601 Newbridge Rd., 6903050. Fern Creek’s lively sports bar has lots of TVs , and Happy Hour specials on food and drink. The solid bar food includes cheese quesadillas and minicorn dogs, burgers, wings and fried fish sandwich. The Roulette Wheel is your choice of three appetizers, meant for sharing. $$ L D hp AMY Z’S 813 Lyndon Ln., 290-7334. An old school neighborhood bar with an elevated food side: ground chuck burgers, chicken quesadillas, a BLT made “ultimate” with the addition of Brie and avocado, and Wednesday steak night, with a varying choice of meats. $ D hpf BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 4099422. After establishing itself as a lively venue for music, this newest addition to the Baxter corridor is entering the BBQ fray, with chef K.B. Spalding, formerly at Vincenzo’s and Churchill Downs, smoking his way to glory . $ L D hpfe

BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454-3635, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-9464. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ L D hpf BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area sports 23 HDTVs including a 5- by 7-foot HD projector for 3D football viewing, a game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ L D hpfe CHAMPIONS SPORTS BAR AND GRILL 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246. Another popular option at the striking downtown Marriott, Champions provides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme — and a gallery of big-screen televisions to keep the sports action flowing as freely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ L D hp CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-8100, 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3662, 313 W. Cardinal Blvd., 365-1665. At this growing chain, you can get your wings doused in an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicy garlic barbecue to sweet Thai chili to inferno — a habanero-based sauce that has a legit name. Also breaded and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches, appetizers and salads. $ L D hpf DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513, 630 Barret Ave., 690-7040. $ L D

hpfe

DOWN ONE BOURBON BAR 321 W. Main St., 5663258. The new, yet rustic bar, situated down one flight below street level, stocks 100-plus Bourbons,

local craft beer and serves wines by the glass. A small but clever bar menu offers burgers, sandwiches and more. $$ L D pfe DRAKE’S 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 614-7327, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr., 384-3921. Lexington-based Bluegrass Hospitality Group has two lively outlets, in the old Burdorf’s building in St. Matthews and the second at The Summit. Twenty-four craft beers on tap to wash down the traditional pub grub of tacos, ribs and — these days — sushi. Familyfriendly by day and a hoppin’ spot at night, with music videos and a DJ. $$ L D hpf FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 585-3700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ L D hpf FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930. Steam-table service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ L D p GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616. A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ L D hpfe GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 637-9128. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ L D hp GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton Garden Inn), 637-2424. Salads, burgers, pastas and

BEEF O’BRADY’S 241 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 5501 Valley Station Rd., 933-5919, 11324 Preston Hwy., 966-8515, 105 LaFollette Ct., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1316. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ L D hf BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ L D hpf THE BREWERY 426 Baxter Ave., 365-2505. First renovated in 1984, including the antique bar from the old Kunz’s, the original owners are back from a decade-long hiatus serving wings and calamari, chili, salads, burgers, sandwiches, subs and pastas. And beer. $$ L D hpfe BROWNIE’S THE SHED GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pkwy., 326-9830. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Brown used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his pub and eatery. Louisville’s official home for Cincy Bengals fans, Brownie’s may be the closest thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighborhood saloon. $ L D hpfe BUD’S TAVERN GOOD FOOD & BARBECUE 4014 Dixie Hwy., 384-9131. New ownership has spiffed up this Shively outpost now offering honest bar food that’s receiving high praise. Check out the “gently fried” grouper, burgers (including a Reuben burger), burritos and barbecue. $ L D hpfe

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ Br D pf HIGHLANDS TAPROOM GRILL 1058 Bardstown Rd., 584-5222. Another nice choice for beer and bar food along the B’town Rd. corridor, but with former Lilly’s chef Tommy Clemons at the helm the menu includes, but extends beyond, the usual beer cheese, chili and burgers. Look for the crabby patty, smoked shrimp scampi, or French toast sausage, house made with egg and maple syrup. The pulled pork spring rolls are on their way to becoming legendary. $$ L D hpfe HILLTOP TAVERN 1800 Frankfort Ave., 742-2908. The Skelton brothers (John is an alum of Seviche) have taken over this prime Clifton location, once the original location of Café Lou Lou. Their tavern fare is focused on barbecue, with pulled pork and beer-butt chicken specialties, along with hefty sandwiches (their meatloaf is a standout). $ D hp HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ L D hpf HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ L D hpf JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville IN, 2882100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ L D hpf JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 4494940. $ B L D

JR’S PUB 826 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 920-0030. Adding even more life to an increasingly busy New Albany downtown, this bar boasts live entertainment on weekends, a daily $1 draft beer pick, a full menu including a daily $6 Blue Plate Special (think comfort foods like Salisbury steak and liver and onions), and an all-you-can-eat fish, fries and slaw choice. $$ L D hpfe KHALIL’S 10966 Dixie Hwy., 632-2227. A family sports bar in Valley Station boasts plenty of TVs, including some tabletop TVs in booths. Menu presents the usual bar food suspects — salads, wings, burgers — but the burgers are on pretzel buns. $ L D hp THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jeffersonville IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern environment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ L D pe MIKE’S TAVERN 3521 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 945-8915. A tavern that serves a full breakfast — eggs, bacon, hotcakes. For lunch, a varied 1/2-pound burger menu — jalapeño burger, bacon burger, mushroom burger — plus a 2-pounder that is free if it can be eaten in 60 minutes. Breakfast or lunch served anytime. $ L p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ L D hpfe OLD LOUISVILLE TAVERN 1532 S. Fourth St., 6374200. It’s been around for a while, but new ownership is bringing in a more enthusiastic crowd, for the ambience as well as the bar food, things like chili cheese fries, portobello mushroom fries, and a knocker burger. $$ L D hpfe O-LINE SPORTS GRILL 2813 N Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-6171. You can watch every game, every sport all year long, they claim. While you do, you can chow down a variety of bar food, such as the juicy

Lucy cheese burger or nacho burger. The kids might like the mini-footballs, franks encased in pastry dough, fried and served with dipping sauces. $ L D hp RIVER CITY DRAFTHOUSE 1574-1/2 Bardstown Rd., 690-5111. Another beer joint along the Bardstown Road corridor boasts more than 20 taps concerned on independent, American, craft beer (in sample, halfpint and pint sizes) and several bottled options. Its limited (for now) bar menu has garnered early praise for its wings. $$ L D hf ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoal-grilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ L D hpf SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ L D hpfe SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337. Despite minimal signage, Sergio’s Butchertown digs pull in his fans, who dig the quirky website, and the whole aura of haughty mystery. What you really need when you locate the place is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ D h THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramount Park Dr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want in a sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptions to all the pro and college sports networks, and hearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimp and salmon. $$$ L D hpf THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-1400. This Cordishowned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ L D hpf SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St., 584-6630. A classic American bar and grill, open late on weekends, dispensing cold beer, burgers, sandwiches and good cheer in a friendly atmosphere. The decor includes a collection of old bicycles hanging from the ceiling, and amenities include several video games and pool tables. $$ L D hp SULLY’S SALOON 434 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 585-4100. One of the stalwarts at 4th Street Live, Sully’s works hard to offer a good time. Their happy hour (M-F 5-9 p.m.) draws crowds with great drink prices and creative, favorably priced appetizers. The new menu is an amalgam of allAmerican, American-Irish and Italian-American comfort foods — chorizo chili potato skins, Irish tacos (topped with shredded corned beef), spicy Alfredo penne — that sort of thing. $$ L D hpfe THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 451-0659. You need a bit of perseverance to track down this saloon on the back side of Mid-City Mall. When you do, you will find one of the city’s friendliest pubs, with a reputation for the best pour of drinks around. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ D hpf TIN ROOF 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1940. This Nashville-based chain, which took over the old Brendan’s location in the heart of St. Matthews has a split personality: a family-friendly vibe during the lunch hours; and a rockin’ juke joint at night with live music until 3 a.m. Its menu encompasses everything you expect from bar grub: deep-fried hot dogs, hot wings, quesadillas and salads for the ladies. $ L D hpfe TROLL PUB UNDER THE BRIDGE 150 W. Washington St., 618-4829. On the downslope alongside the Clark Memorial Bridge, a large troll beckons the adventurous into a space excavated out of the lost

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space in the old whiskey warehouse. The renovation boasts lots of dark, brick-walled spaces, as well as a funky outdoor dining area in the lightwell. The menu offers stacked sandwiches, bison burgers and sweet potato tots, and ribeye steaks. $$ L D hpf

and interesting vegetarian choices, with large portions and reasonable prices. $ L D

VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 9444338. $ L D

ADDIS GRILL 109 S. Fourth St., 581-1011. The signage of this downtown ethnic eatery promises “Mediterranean & Ethiopian Cuisine,” but the menu offers mostly Mediterranean standbys — kabobs, hummus, baba ghannouj, dolmades, tabbouleh. $ L D h

WINGSTOP 4812 Dixie Hwy., 409-6000. This Texasbased chain with 500 restaurants nationally, now reaches into Louisville. Their specialty? Wings of course, and you can get them 9 different ways. $$ L D hp

AL NUUR 2933 S. Fourth St., 210-7623. Another outlet for Arabian food, but one that goes beyond the usual. You can find long-braised lamb shank and roasted goat, as well as shish kebabs, fish and spaghetti. Take out or eat in. $ L D

ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene, the Zbar has resurrected itself at its original location in Germantown. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, and chef Jack Tapp is pushing the envelope on bar food, with items such as pulled pork smoked on site, sesame seed-crusted tuna salad, and peppercorn-crusted rib eye. “Pub grub” like this and top-flight live music is satisfying oldtimers and the newly hip late into the night. $ L D hpfe

BELA’S CAFÉ 2933 S. Fourth St., 758-6463. This little Somali café caters mostly to the Muslim community settling in around Churchill Downs, offering cheap, filling, and interestingly spiced foods such as sambusas and nafaqo — a hard-boiled egg in a crust of potato and ground beef, a kind of African Scotch egg. $ L D

AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 515-0174. Slugger Field once again has a beer-pub. The owners, veterans of the local brewing revival, have worked out an ambitious rotating beer selection and a smokehouse theme for the kitchen, with an emphasis on seasonal dishes. $$ L D pf APOCALYPSE BREW WORKS 1612 Mellwood Ave., 589-4843. Veteran home brewers Leah Dienes, Paul Grignon and Bill Krauth run the newest brewery in Butchertown. Their taproom, dubbed The Fallout Shelter, serves up to 10 of their concoctions. $ h BANK STREET BREWHOUSE 415 Bank St., New Albany IN, 725-9585. The food focus of this offshoot of F&D columnist Roger Baylor’s New Albanian brewing empire has morphed into American bistro cuisine, with emphasis on fresh and local ingredients, and daily fish specials. Devotees will still find steak frites and croques monsieurs et madames to go with the exceptional beer brewed on the premises. $$ L D pf

CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’s international dining scene, with generous portions of spicy Senegalese cuisine from West Africa. $ L D h FUNMI’S AFRICAN RESTAURANT 3028 Bardstown Rd., 454-5009. Billing itself as serving “Modern Nigerian Cuisine,” Funmi’s offers a range of dishes from North and Central African cultures. Sample goat in a soup or a thick stew. Try soya, a West African shish kebab with a spicy peanut rub or moin-moin, a savory bean cake or lablabi, a Tunisian chickpea soup. Vegetarian and vegan dishes are available as well. $$ L D KALISIMBI BAR & GRILL 5600 S. Third St., 3641910. This Beechmont sports bar features a blend of African and American foods served alongside an extensive wine and beer list. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $$ B L D

MAA SHA ALLAH 4113 Bardstown Rd., 491-3152. The name is an Arabic blessing or expression of joy, meaning “Whatever Allah wants to give.” This little Buechel storefront is another example of the entrepreneurial spirit of recent immigrants, in this case from Senegal and Sierra Leone. The menu is African, the ambiance modest, the food spicy and tasty. $$ L D QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ L D

A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582, 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 3646 Mall Rd., 479-9989. Competent cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes these buffets a good choice among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ L D ASIAN MOON 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ L D AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569. August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and from the staff makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant alfresco dining experience. $$$ L D hpf

BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739, 660 S. Fourth St., 568-2224, 300 W. Main St., 562-0007. More than just a brewpub. BBC’s management gives equally serious attention to both cooking and brewing, making this a great place to stop in for both dinner and a beer. Its third restaurant site on Main Street boasts an upstairs Bourbon lounge. $$ L D hpfe CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “microbrewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality handcrafted artisan beers. $ L D hf GORDON BIERSCH BREWERY RESTAURANT 400 S. Fourth St., 589-8935. The growing national brewery and restaurant chain has become an anchor at the corner location at 4th and Liberty, brewing their characteristic German-style bottomfermented lagers, Hefeweizen, bocks, pilsners and Schwarzbiers. The large menu offers the usual pubgrub, but touted as fresh, seasonal and made on the premises. $$$ Br L D hpf NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. (See review under Pizza.)

ABYSSINIA 554 S. Fifth St., 384-8347. Early reports give high marks to this new Ethiopian restaurant downtown. Plenty of hearty stews, known as “wots,”

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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CHEER KING STAR 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. Just what downtown needed — a Chinese buffet for quick lunches. Mostly the familiar, a mix of Cantonese, Szechuan and Hunan choices for those who need a little spice to fire them up to get back to work. $ L D CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ L D CHINA 1 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ L D CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 968-7450. $ L D CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ L D CHINA COAST 4952 Manslick Rd., 363-4259. $ L D CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ L D CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ L D CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ L D CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 284-5580. $ L D CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ L D CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ L D CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ L D h CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ L D CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ L D CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RESTAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ L D CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. A standout among fast-food shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently wellprepared and flavorful fare. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353.$LD EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ L D EGGROLL MACHINE 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. The Chinese side of the menu at Café Mimosa is presented as The Egg Roll Machine, as opposed to the Vietnamese dishes on the fine dining Mimosa menu. All the expected Chinese favorites are here, including combination platters. $ L D hp EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Center, 426-1717. One of Louisville’s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese restaurants, the Emperor’s quarters are stylishly strewn across multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater. Outstanding. $$ L D hp EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ L D hp FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh Street Rd., 448-0588. $ L D h GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $LDh GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $$ L D GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3458 Taylor Blvd., 368-1833. $ L D h GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ L D 72 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com

GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ L D h

ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ L D

GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fast-food Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of word-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargain-basement price. $ L D

PANDA CHINESE RESTAURANT 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ L D

HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ L D HAPPY DRAGON 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8788. You guessed it: a good, go-to standard pan-China family-style restaurant in Jeffersontown that’s always there when you’re tired of cooking dinner for the clan. $ L D HIBACHI SUSHI BUFFET 5316 Bardstown Rd., 4918228. Capitalizing on two seemingly persistent trends in American dining, this hot table place offers standard Chinese buffet dishes, and standard sushi choices. Cashew chicken, shrimp with garlic sauce, Dancing Dragon roll, spring and summer maki — it is all here. $$ L D HONG KONG CHINESE RESTAURANT 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany IN, 945-1818. $ L D HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ L D h HUNAN WOK 6445 Bardstown Rd., 231-0393. $ L D h JADE PALACE 1201 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’t miss it at mid-day Friday through Monday, when it offers the metro area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ Br L D hp JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. A charming Asian eatery, where you can enjoy familiar ChineseAmerican plates or indulge your more adventurous side with more unusual authentic dishes from the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ L D f JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 495-0028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ L D h KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King Wok offers all the familiar standards plus a small lunch buffet. $ L D h LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ L D LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ L D

PANDA EXPRESS 1075 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN 288-0774, 1232 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3268430. The Pentagon even has one of the 1500+ outlets of the nation’s largest Chinese fast food chains, and now we have two. Moderately priced chow such as orange chicken, Beijing beef, SweetFire chicken breast and honey walnut shrimp fill the menu. $ L D PEKING CITY BISTRO 12410 Shelbyville Rd., 2536777. A step up from the usual Chinese hot table fare. Chef Chen, highly thought of in the Chinese community, runs the kitchen. $ L D QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ L D RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 3437 Breckinridge Ln., 499-7788. $ L D ROYAL GARDEN 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788. $ L D SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St., 568-8833. $LD SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 426-6767. Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ L D TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sitdown Chinese restaurant owned and operated by Paul and Amy Yang joins the small but growing cluster of businesses in the Norton Commons village center. $$ L D h WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ L D h WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. Traditional Chinese fare. Family-owned-and-operated, this popular neighborhood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $ L D YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 426-0800. This locally owned and operated Oxmoor spot is colorful and stylish. It offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ L D f YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ L D YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8313, 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 282-8881. $ L D

SARI SARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2339 Frankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’s first Filipino eatery offers a tasty introduction to the Malayo-Polynesian fare of this Southeast Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are affordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buffet. $ L D

NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ L D ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and wooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $ L D f ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017. New owners continue the tradition at this longstanding St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ L D p

ARATA SUSHI 9207 U.S. 42, 409-4880. Prospect gets a sleek sushi place, with crisp dark modern interior, well-prepared fresh fish and rolls, and a fine selection of sakes. $$ L D p ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130. This small room in St. Matthews houses this neighborhood sushi spot where award-winning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ L D BEIJING GRILL AND SUSHI BAR 8007 Hwy. 311, Sellersburg IN, 248-0900. $ L D h

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BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700. Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Bendoya is a genuine, serious sushi bar in a storefront just across the street from the courthouse. $$ L CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. (See listing under Upscale Casual.) CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln., 426-4441. This suburban Asian grocery now serves hot table fare to enjoy while shopping. $ L D DANCING SUSHI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 2809 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-3387. $$ L D DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 632-2444, 202 East Elm St., New Albany IN, 7258600. Owner Toki Masubuchi’s audacious take on fusion cuisine looks to enchant New Albanians as they have Bardstown Road hipsters. The eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists: pizza topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $ L D hpf FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$LDp FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036. Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ L D hp GINZA ASIAN BISTRO 9420 Shelbyville Rd., 7498878. A one-stop Asian restaurant at the junction of Hurstbourne Lane and Shelbyville Road. Choose to eat from the Chinese, Japanese or Thai kitchen, or sidle up to the sushi bar for all manner of vegetarian or fish-focused rolls, or sushi combos that include miso soup and salad. A la carte sushi entrées too. $$ L D hp HANABI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 6027 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting, and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties have made this family run Prospect spot a worthy alternative in the East End dining scene. $$ L D hp HEART & SOY 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. To the left is Roots, a sit-down restaurant. To the right is Heart & Soy, serving vegetarian “street food,” and entertaining passers-by with a glass-walled tofumaking room. State-of-the-art equipment from Taiwan transforms organic soy beans from Ohio into soy milk and then coagulates and presses it into tofu as you watch. $ L D

Japanese restaurant has been drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ L D p MASA JAPANESE 12336 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5040. Middletown, too, joins in the sushi expansion. Open for lunch and dinner, the standard menu is bolstered by daily chef’s specials. Lunch specials include the Japadawg, a hot dog with Japanese toppings, a range of teriyaki choices and ramen noodles, Japanese style. $$ L D h MIKATO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3938 Dupont Circle, 891-0081. An upscale hibachi grillhouse in the popular restaurant ring in the Breckinridge Lane — Dupont Circle area. Pleasant decor, entertaining grill chefs, fresh sushi preparations, and sometimes glacial service. $$ L D hpf MT. FUJI 309 Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. The quickeating strip on the north side of U of L’s campus needed a Japanese place to satisfy students’ sushi cravings. The menu also has tempura and Japanese noodles. $ L D p OASIS SUSHI & SOUL 3311 Preston Hwy., 3758766. Owners of downtown’s Bendoya Sushi Bar have opened this Japanese restaurant on Preston Highway. $$ D h OISHII SUSHI 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 365-3474. This small, attractive and popular sushi spot has contracted to a single location near Bowman Field. $$ L D h OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing Clifton favorite also has a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ L D ROOTS 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6688. Coco Tran, who has nurtured a loyal Clifton-area fan base

JAPANESE

with her Zen Garden, looks to seduce the vegan/ vegetarian world of the Highlands with this crisp, elegant room. Eat at tables in the front, enjoy smoothies and tea at the bar, or snuggle down in a Japanese pit table in the back. Choose from an international selection of small plates. $ L D SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “full-service” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ L D hp SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600. Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue — direct descendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ L D h SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550, 649 S. Fourth St., 589-3333. With its original location in the middle of Bardstown Road’s “restaurant row,” trendy, glitzy Sapporo has established itself as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. Its second location is in a beautifully designed space in Theater Square off Broadway downtown. $$$ L D hp SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 3940123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ L D hp SORA SUSHI AND JAPANESE CUISINE 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 290-7672. Every neighborhood now needs its sushi place. Louisville’s inexhaustible hunger for sticky rice wrapped in seaweed has seen it win early fans who attest to the menu’s freshness and to the pleasant service and setting. $$ L D p

GRILL

HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651. Japanese-trained chef Norihiko Nakanashi brings his artistic skills to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ L D hp

AND

SUSHI

SAPPOROJAPANESE.COM 1706 BARDSTOWN RD. 502.479.5550 649 SOUTH 4TH ST. 502.589.3333

ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shore Ct., 412-3339. This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originally a Benihana, offers similar delights, with the traditional slice-and-dice food show and good sushi. Best deal, while the offer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ L D p KAILANA SUSHI 6435 Bardstown Rd., 614-7244. Fern Creek gets another choice in sushi bars, with generous rolls priced competitively — nothing over $12. Four levels of 13-piece, mix and match lunch specials, as well as rice, noodles and salads. $$ L D h KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-9538, 1850 S. Hurst bourne Pkwy., 618-1870. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ L D hp KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious

DINNER ONLY HIBACHI GRILL RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED

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STAR SUSHI 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 725-8444. Is there a surfeit of sushi around the area? Even Jeffersonville now has its own source of yellowtail rolls, sashimi and nigiri, which is drawing fans for the freshness and flavor of its offerings, and its very fair price point. $$ L D

is set.” In this case with home-style Korean food, including nokdo jeon, a pancake with mung beans and kim chee — house-made kim chee at that. This modest St. Matthews place quickly became a hit, expecially for the banchan, the assortment of sides that come with each entrée.$ L D

using their swords as spoons. Shah’s carries their spirit forward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ L D

TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ L D

KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ L D

MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ L D

TOMO 4315 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9410200. This Japanese hibachi steak house offers a good show of knife skills and tableside grilling, as well as sushi. Patrons seem to admire the oversize sushi rolls, the salads with ginger dressing, and the grilled chicken and scallops. $$ L D p WASABIYA JAPANESE RESTAURANT 972 Baxter Ave., 618-2460. A neighborhood sushi bar, with a chef from Boston with fusion cuisine intentions. Look for some unusual items, like the sake kinuta, salmon wrapped in marinated daikon radish with a citrus sauce, or a fatty tuna carpaccio with white wine reduction and ponzu sauce. $$ L D h WILD GINGER SUSHI & FUSION 1700 Bardstown Rd., 384-9252. The old Café Metro space did not molder long — this sushi and Asian fusion spot has been pulling in intrigued customers who admire the sushi bar up front, and explore the pan-Asian menu. Standard Japanese entrées are joined with specials from Korea (bibim bop) China (Sichuanstyle crispy tofu) and Thailand (pad thai and curries). $$ L D hp

CHARIM KOREAN RESTAURANT 4123 Oechsli Ave., 290-8900. “Charim” can be rendered as “the table

LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ L D h

BD’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4406. The proprietors of this Michiganbased East End chain invite you to “go Mongo,” building your own choice of ingredients and sauces for the chefs to stir-fry. $$ L D hpf GENGHIS GRILL 4002 Towne Center Dr., 426-4945. The chain of Asian stir-fry restaurants has been steadily moving northward from its Dallas home base. At this suburban location just beyond the Gene Snyder Freeway you can choose one of their dozen “signature bowls” including Szechuan bamboo beef, ginger herb shrimp, Mexican jalapeño and chipotle steak. Or design your own from a choice of protein, vegetables, sauces and starches. $$ L D p SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 9148 Taylorsville Rd., 493-0234, 423 E. Warnock St., 409-5029. Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire,

SALA THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992, 10403 Glenmary Farm Dr., 493-3944. This entry on the growing list of Thai restaurants is gaining fans, partly because it is vegetarian- and vegan-friendly. $$ L D SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670, 12003 Shelbyville Rd, 690-8344. Owner Mahn Saing and his wife, a classically trained Thai chef, are pleasing diners in St. Matthews and Middletown. Their menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items use many ingredients from their small home garden. $$ LDf TAN THAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ L D THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ L D f THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this venerable spot has built a loyal audience over the years, perhaps responding to its regular visitors’ preferences with food that’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ L D THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. Part of a regional mini-chain, Thai Smile 5 serves up simple but well-prepared Thai fare. Don’t ask for the fivechile-pepper heat unless you really mean it! $ L D THAI TASTE 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 897-7682. The owner-host of this friendly, casual spot in Crescent Hill had a restaurant in Bangkok before moving to Louisville, and his experience shows. The warmth of his welcome — and the quality of the food — make Thai Taste special. $ L D

ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn Ave., 363-4847. Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ L D BANH MI HERO 2245 Bardstown Rd., 456-2022. Seven versions of the French-Vietnamese fusion sandwich on offer here, plus Asian tacos and rice bowls, washed down with Vietnamese coffee, jasmine tea or exotic Asian canned soft drinks.$ L D CAFÉ MIMOSA 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. Owner Phat Le, serving his Vietnamese, Chinese and pan-Asian dishes to happy regulars, might finally wean Louisvillians from referring to his building as the former Lentini’s. $ L D hp CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959. A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard 74 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com

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to beat. Don’t miss the banh mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ L D FOUR SISTERS 2246 Frankfort Ave., 384-4262. Four Vietnamese sisters have taken over the former Zen Tea Room space in Clifton. The concept combines a coffeehouse and tea room also serving sweet and savory crepes and bahn mi. $ L D LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que provides the lower Highlands with a dependable, economical Vietnamese menu that includes some dishes from other Asian cuisines. $$ L D hf LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2447110. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ L D h NAMNAM CAFÉ 318 Wallace Ave., 891-8859. This small St. Matthews Vietnamese restaurant has gained many enthusiastic fans who flock there for the pho, the banh mi and other authentic Vietnamese dishes. $ L D f PEARL Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-7662648. Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine, elegantly served, Pearl is among the dining choice at Horseshoe Casino. Signature dishes include Vietnamese spring rolls, ginger and scallion fried lobster and crispy salt and pepper shrimp. $$ L D hp PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249. Tiny and lovably cozy, this six-table South End spot is true authentic Vietnamese, and so are the proprietors. There’s some language barrier, but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare and inexpensive prices. $ L D SAIGON CAFÉ 108 Fairfax Ave., 893-7757. St. Matthews diners can find tasty and inexpensive Southeast Asian fare here — Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese dishes are all choices on the menu. $$ L D h

offers classical and Southern France specialties. Owner Guy Genoud, a native of Cannes, and chef de cuisine Edoardo Bacci offer a large selection of mid-priced lunch and dinner fare including an array of seafoods, lamb, duck and beef, daily “plat du jour,” delightful aperitifs, wines and cocktails just like you’d find in Provence $$$ L D hpf GHYSLAIN 721 E. Market St., 690-8645, 1215 Herr Ln., 690-6001. The two locations of this French bistro, in NuLu and in Westport Village are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, serving grilled baguettes, croque monsieurs, panini, quiches, soups, salads, and fine chocolates. $$ B L D LA COOP: BISTRO À VINS 732 E. Market St., 4102888. One of the hottest spots in NuLu. Uber talented chef Bobby Benjamin is turning out classic French bistro fare with some modern twists, an idea that keeps his little place packed with happy diners. $$$ B L D hpf LOUIS LE FRANCAIS 133 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-1222. This charming French bistro extends the range of international dining options in New Albany. Louis “Louis the Frenchman” Retailleau serves a menu typical of the cuisine of his native southwest France. $$$$ D p

EIDERDOWN 983 Goss Ave., 290-2390. The owners of the Germantown watering hole Nachbar also operate the popular Eiderdown, serving Southern comfort food influenced by the owners’ German and European heritage. Dreams of a microbrewery there also dance in their heads; in the meantime, diners are satisfied with a large selection of European craft beers on tap. $$ L D h ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-8822. It’s tucked away in an inconspicuous corner just off I-64 local access ramp, but Erika’s

has been pleasing its knowing clientele with authentic German dishes for quite a while now. $$ D GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North RhineWestphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$ D

IRISH EXIT 209 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 944-1929. The Irish Exit (a tongue-in-cheek name referring to the quiet, no-farewell leave-taking of inebriated Hibernians) serves pub fare and entertains patrons with karaoke and acoustic music, pool tables and dart boards. $ D hpe IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGrange, 222-2286. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloons are as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. The Frankfort Avenue building dates from 1859. $ Br L D pf MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, has added a second, suburban location. Both are as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ L D hpfe MORE SHENANIGAN’S 4521 Bardstown Rd., 4933585. $ L D hpfe O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. One of the most popular watering holes in the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor. Twenty-somethings and Louisville belles love its action. But diners of all ages like its meat loaf, roast

SAIGON ONE 333 W. Cardinal Blvd., 638-8989. When U of L students get the sniffles, they just have to have quick access to a bowl of steaming pho. This Vietnamese place at the new university dorm and restaurant row at Cardinal Towne provides needed sustenance. $ L D h VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154. This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ L D h ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 895-9114. Vegetarians with a philosophical bent have found a combination guru and den mother in Zen Garden’s owner Coco, who serves up sincere and soulful Asian vegan dishes. $ L D h

BOSNA-MAK 3825 Old Bardstown Rd., 456-1919. Friendly and exceptionally hospitable, family-owned Bosna-Mak celebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a few culinary additions from their time in Germany. $ L D

BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. Chef Alexander Dulaney and owner Anthony Dike’s refocus of the restaurant around a bistro menu continues its popularity. $$$$ D pfe BRASSERIE PROVENCE 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 883-3153. This new Provencal-style French brasserie

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beef and Irish stew. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ L D hpfe

THE INTERNATIONAL MALL 737 S. Eighth St., 561-8871. $ L D

PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This downtown Irish bar was one of the first to open in the Whiskey Row complex, anticipating the revival of that edge of the Main Street corridor. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. Now the owners have rehabbed the funky underpinnings of their building into a bar area and dubbed it “The Cellar,” focusing on an aggressive Bourbon program and live entertainment. $$ L D hpfe

LA BOCCA 134 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9495. The eclectic, expanding dine scene in New Albany needed this Italian place to enrich the ethnic choices. Dine on, among other dishes, chicken piccata and rigatoni Bolognese. Zeppole on the dessert menu bespeaks the New York bono fides of the owner. $$ L D pf

DE LA TORRE’S 1606 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Authentic Castilian fare includes a majestic paella. But the renewed focus at this Highlands standby is tapas, in such variety that you can have anything on the menu in small-plates form. $$$ D hp

LA GALLO ROSSO BISTRO 1325 Bardstown Rd., 4730015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alley serves casual Italian and Continental food in a cozy family-style setting. $$ D f

LA BODEGA 1604 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Next door to the excellent De La Torre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega offers diners the city’s most authentic Spanishstyle tapas bar, featuring the small bites originally invented in the outdoor cafés of Jerez. $$ D hp

SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ L D hpfe

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ L D

MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr. 394-9797. Now locally owned, Martini’s continues to serve hearty, well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas, a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria. An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ L D hpf OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ L D hp

AMICI 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Satisfying traditional Tuscan dishes are served in this interesting — and supposedly haunted — Old Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic patio on a lovely summer evening, There’s no extra charge if the ghosts want to share your penne alla Lorenzo or Valpolicella. $$ L D pf

THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer Loop, 968-2978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ L D hp

ANSELMO’S ITALIAN BISTRO 1511 Bardstown Rd., 749-0444. Highland residents hankering for simple, traditional, filling Italian dishes can find just that in this Italian bistro. The menu offers what one would expect: pizza, pastas, lasagna — at reasonable prices. $$ L D hp

PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offices for blocks around empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $$ L D

BISTRO 42 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 632-2552. Another entry in the dining choices at Prospect Village shopping center. This little family-run place, serving pasta, sandwiches and Italian and American dishes is proud of its 5-cheese 3-meat Bistro lasagna and their 3-hour honey-baked ham, offered at an attractive price. $$ L D hpfe

PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992. Crowds wait at the popular bar for one of the tables — or just wait at the bar. $$$ L D hpfe

BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott). See listing under Upscale Casual. BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ L D hp CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$$ L D

hpf

COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. With both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $$ L D p DIFABIO’S CASAPELA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. DiFabio’s Casapela has made its mark in this Crescent Hill space, with a menu that harks back to the red-checked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccata, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ D f 76 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com

ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-3844. (See review under Pizza.) ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ L D hp SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-5400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ L D STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner well worth a special trip out from the city. $$ L D TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced ItalianAmerican fare at a price that’s right. $$ L D hp VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. (See listing under Upscale Casual.) VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a notch. With a combination of Italian standards and monthly menu updates, Chef Josh Moore has secured Volare a top spot for suave Italian dining. Its U.S.D.A. Prime barrel-cut beef program has received rave reviews. $$$ D hpfe

MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojito quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $$ L D hpf

BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-8892. With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ L D CLAY OVEN INDIAN RESTAURANT 12567 Shelbyville Rd., 254-4363. Northern Indian cuisine comes to Middletown, with a focus on the clay oven specialties of the region, including some Nepalese dishes, like goat curry and chicken mo-mo (a kind of chicken and dumplings dish). Also look for a selection of lamb dishes and, of course, a large vegetarian menu. $$ L D DAKSHIN INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. Owned and operated by the same family that brings us Kashmir Restaurant and Bombay Grocery in the Highlands, this addition brings aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ B L D p KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1277 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ L D hf LITTLE INDIA CAFÉ 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 479-3353. It’s sort of an Indian fast-food place, set up in a former Quizno’s. The menu includes appetizers such as lentil soup and mirchi bajji — fried lentil-battered stuffed peppers — followed by Northern lamb and vegetarian entrées, tandoori chicken and kebabs. There’s also a selection of Indian breads. A Punjabistyle (Northern Indian) lunch buffet is for those who want really fast service. $ L D f SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1820 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants. With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ L D SITAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1702 Bardstown Rd., 473-8889. Named after the Indian stringed musical instrument that Ravi Shankar made famous, Sitar features a full Indian menu and an impressively tasty buffet. It’s the first Louisville property for a tiny new chain with four places in Tennessee and one in Alabama. $$ L D TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ L D f

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A.J.’S GYRO CAFÉ 9280 IN 64, Georgetown, IN, 951-1715. $ L D f AL WATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ L D ALADDIN’S CAFÉ 111 W. Market St., New Albany IN, 489-7969. The name should be a clue that Aladdin’s Café brings Middle Eastern cuisine to the still-growing dining scene in New Albany. You’ll find beef, lamb or chicken gyros, chicken shawarma, tabbouleh and hummus. Finish your meal with thick Turkish coffee. $ L D h BURNING BUSH GRILLE 13206 W. U.S. Highway 42, 228-7776. A franchisee of the popular Shiraz local mini-chain has struck off on his own, cooking healthy Mediterranean foods — kebabs, steak, fish and lamb, salads, pizza, gyros and Balkan burgers. $ L D f CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. Highlands diners enjoy an eclectic and international menu at the friendly corner place, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, just about 24/7. $ B L D hpf THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 4544407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the Bardstown-Baxter entertainment strip. Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ L D hf GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. Relatively recent renovations and an expanded menu have elevated the Grape Leaf to destination status, placing it well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery niche. Prices remain affordable, while the food and mood now justify a special trip. $$ L D f

SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. An unassuming location in an odd spot downtown, but a most pleasant space inside, with food and service that continues to please regulars and delight visitors. The popular menu items continue to be rack of lamb, roasted duck fesenjoon, salomon and kebabs. $$$ L D pf SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standard American fare at this welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich? $ L D f SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2011 Frankfort Ave., 891-8854, 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 4269954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232. From a tiny neighborhood storefront, Shiraz quickly grew out of its original location and expanded into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, such as char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavish bread. $ L D f TUT’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3425 Bardstown Rd., 452-1899. The Buechel area’s hunger for hummus, dolmas, lamb and falafel is well served by this Middle Eastern eatery. $ L D f THE WAREHOUSE HOOKAH BAR & CAFÉ 504 State St., New Albany IN, 276-5894. Choose from up to 10 flavors of tobacco to relish at the table with friends at this first hookah bar in southern Indiana. Also on offer is a full bar and American pub grub such as pizzas, pita and hummus, corn dogs, jumbo pretzels, chips and salsa or queso to munch on between puffs. $ L D hpe ZAYTUN MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2286 Bardstown Rd., 365-1788. Fine, freshly prepared seafood is part of the draw in this upper Highlands eatery with an eclectic Middle Eastern menu. Excellent gyros and

friendly, sympathetic service kick it up a notch from other hummus joints. $ L D h ZOE’S KITCHEN 500 W. Jefferson St., 585-0000, 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963, 3723 Lexington Rd., 409-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now has three Louisville locations. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, roll-ups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ L D

J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046, 426 W. Jefferson St., 589-9245, 8603 Citadel Way, 4934720, 3017 Poplar Level Rd., 690-8080. Former jockey Billy Fox has created a popular mini-chain serving hearty, affordable Cajun cuisine. After a stint focusing on expansion, he is now back in the saddle and in the kitchen again, to the delight of his fans. The drunken chicken is addictive. $ B L Df JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320. Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style fare is the draw at Joe’s. A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ L D p SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. This Cajun/Creole place in a renovated Anchorage roadhouse continues to find fans. Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ Br L D hpf

CUBAN FLAVOR 5700 Outer Loop, 618-2181. The flowering of Cuban/Caribbean cuisine is reaching out beyond the city. This little place, in a strip mall, of course, brings black beans and rice and pork asado to Okolona. $ L D

LITTLE JERUSALEM 5312 S. Third St., 614-6465. Middle Eastern fare in the ethnic food complex around Iroquois Manor. The usual things, like hummus and falafel, but also chicken sumac and fatoush and mujadara, made from green lentils, basmati rice, onions and exotic spices. $ L D MIRAGE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 4100 Preston Hwy., 363-7788. Preston Highway’s international restaurant row is enriched by this Middle Eastern eatery, run by the owners of the nowdefunct Little Jerusalem. Gyros, hummus, falafel — what one would expect, but done with attention to details and a flair for flavor. $$ L D f PETRA MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 3904 Bardstown Rd., 749-0924. Another addition to the ethnic choices out in Beuchel. As with many “Mediterranean” restaurants around, the fare is largely confined to that of the Levant schwarmas and hummus and flafel. $$ L D h PITA DELIGHTS 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. This Near Eastern eatery in the Highlands offers a splendid mix of gyros, falafel and other pita-based goodies. $$ L D PITA HUT 1613 Bardstown Rd., 409-8484. After its expansion more than doubled the space in this once-tiny spot, more diners can enjoy MediterraneanMiddle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ L D PITA PIT 9816 Linn Station Rd., 565-1220. A franchise operation dedicated to cramming all sorts of fillings into a flatbread pocket. Chomp on a chicken Caesar pita, or a Philly steak pita. Many veggie selections, from garden vegetables to falafel to hummus and baba ganoush. They’re open for breakfast too: ham ’n’ eggs and sausage scramble to go. $ L D

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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EL RINCON CUBAN RESTAURANT 8118 Preston Hwy., 742-2768. Bringing Cuban cuisine to Okolona. Along with familiar dishes such as arroz con pollo, the menu also includes specialties such as tasajo (braised beef in tomato sauce), ajiaco (a root vegetable stew made with malanga, yucca and corn) and cremas — a variety of pureed vegetable soups. $ L D EL TENAMPA BAR & GRILL 5412 Del Maria Way, 493-4053. $ L D p HABANA BLUES TAPAS RESTAURANT 148 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-9760. Habana Blues’ extensive Cuban menu has a few international dishes, too, and a nice selection of tapas. Also a half-dozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a few dinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arroz con pollo. $$ L D pfe HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959, 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana can be found at both locations of this consistently busy Cuban restaurant. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $$ L D pf HAVANA RUMBA EXPRESS 2210 Bardstown Rd., 749-4600. The Havana Rumba family brings Cuban quick-order food and Spanish tapas to the Douglass Loop. Look also for rustic rotisserie chicken and pork, ethnic side dishes and sandwiches. $ L D hpfe IRIES CARIBBEAN CAFÉ 255 Quartermaster Crt., 280-7437. Owners of this café are immigrants from the Caribbean islands whose eclectic menu includes ethnic dishes such as jerk chicken, salt cod and plantains, plus American sandwiches and sides. $ L D PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bardstown Rd., 456-6461. Louisville’s best source for authentic Argentine cooking: lots of beef (and chicken) slow-cooked over charcoal and Latin versions of Italian dishes, like chicken Milanesa. Palermo Viejo is the Little Italy of Buenos Aires, hometown of owner Francisco Elbl’s father. $$ D pf PUPUSERIA Y TAQUERIA SANTA ROSA 4231 Taylor Blvd., 368-4353. $ L D TAYLOR G’S JAMAICAN JERK 332 W. Broadway, 587-6127. $$ L D

ADOBO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 5612 Bardstown Rd., 618-3430. Fern Creek gets some spicy Mexican with this eatery. The guacamole bar offers a huge portion in a rough stone mortar, just the thing to munch on while sipping a margarita special. $$ L D p BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 4014 Dutchmans Ln., 899-9600, 1907 S. Fourth St., 899-9746. A downtown location joins its Dupont Circle sibling, offering fine fish tacos and simple fast-food Mexican fare in an inexpensive, casual atmosphere. $ L D f CAFE AROMA 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 618-3434. The menu is billed as “world cuisine with a Mexican flair” but it’s really mostly Mexican and really mostly good, according to our friends in the neighborhood. Affordable, casual and filling. What’s not to like? $ L D CASA FIESTA 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 423-4604. This Mexican restaurant in the Summit area has impressed diners with its clean, modern ambience and its generous portions for reasonable prices. $ L D pf CHIPOTLE MEXICAN GRILL 315 S. Fourth St., 5848606, 10333 Westport Rd., 526-5170. Now there are two locations of the increasingly popular TexMex chain, downtown and out in the ‘burbs. The corporate emphasis on cooking with humanelyraised meat products seems to have struck a chord with consumers. $ L D

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EL BURRITO DE ORO 1927 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-8820. $ L D h

FIESTA TIME AMIGOS 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444. $LDp

EL CAMINO 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-3417. The owners of The Silver Dollar in Clifton have morphed the old Avalon space into a high-concept melding of tiki bar, southern California surfer hangout and Mexican street-food emporium. How’s this for authen tic: Chef Jonathan Schwartz and his Mexican wife refined the menu at his mother-inlaw’s Cancun restaurant. The sound track features Beach Boy era surfer music. $$ Br L D hpf

FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $ L D p

EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1909 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-7174. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ L D p EL MARIACHI 9901 La Grange Rd., 413-5770. Early fans of this Mexican restaurant, situated between a bakery and an ethnic grocery, have found much to rave about: tacos and burritos made with the bakery’s fresh tortillas, funky authentic fillings, and quick, friendly service. $ B L D p EL MARLIN SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-1777. As genuine a take on Mexican seafood cookery as is possible in landlocked Kentucky. Choose mild or spicy preparations of marlin, tilapia, grouper and snapfish. $$ L D p EL MOLCAJETE 8106 Preston Hwy., 742-3485, 3022 S. Third St., 638-0300. $$ L D hp EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ L D pf EL NOPAL (19 Locations) These locally owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain that now numbers 19, winning popularity on the basis of delicious and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $LD p f EL RANCHERO 2918 Hikes Ln,. 410-5668. Formerly El Rey’s, the new owner has spiffed the space up a bit, and aficionados of Mexican food speak well of the nacho grande, tostadas de ceviche and spicierthan-usual queso. $$ L D p EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer St, Jeffersonville IN, 2850109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ D p EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 3269373, 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8003. Add El Tarasco to the happy new genre of restaurants run by Latinos and offering authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, but that reach out to Anglos and make it easy to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ L D p EL TORAZO 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7272. A family oriented Mexican restaurant joins the choices at this Hurstbourne shopping strip location. All the expected menu items, as well as some more sophisticated dishes, such as 7 mares sopa, a soup with shrimp, scallops and octopus; banderillas, a colorful beef brochette; and chuleta sabrosa, a Durango-style grilled steak. $$ L D pf EL TORITO DE JALISCO 4325 Preston Hwy., 4098138. $$ L D pf EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ L D pf

GUACA MOLE 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 365-4823. Fernando Martinez, veteran of Havana Rumba and Mojitos, has graced the East End with his “creative Mexican” restaurant. The hyphenated name emphasizes the menu’s exploration of different moles, and the creativity comes with modern twists on classic Mexican dishes. Early buzz is hot, for both the food and the up-to-the-minute cocktail program designed by Martinez’s wife Cristina. $$ Br L D pe HAY CHI WA WAA 808 Lyndon Ln., 883-1924. This Tex-Mex place lives up to its tagline, “Ditch the chains for authentic Mexican.” The menu claims everything is prepared from scratch in generous portions. In addition to fajitas and burritos, there is a “100% Mexicano” section (carne guisada, tacos al carbon), and a fun bar menu, Early word is this place could give the established Latin American restaurants a run for their money. $ L D p LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eatery that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ L D h LA CARRETA 7319 Preston Hwy., 742-1320. A Mexican joint with a bit more interesting menu than some. Look for Texas quail poppers, shrimp diablo, fajita nachos, and botana platter, as well as quesadillas, taquitos and queso. $$ L D h LA HACIENDA GUADALAJARA 4132 Outer Loop, 384-6427. $$ B L D LA POPULAR 2521 Seventh St Rd., 636-3688.$LD p LA RIVIERA MAYA 8104 National Turnpike, 361-3566. This South End Mexican restaurant is popular with local Latinos, which is always a good sign. Look for gorditas and carne asada, as well as familiar fare like enchiladas. Word is that the horchata is rich and spiced just right. $ L D p LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 8730 Westport Rd., 618-4588, 5059 Preston Hwy., 618-2833, 1404 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 284-1362. For those who crave genuine Mexican tacos, you want them convenient when the urge to scarf one down strikes. These little places will certainly satisfy those cravings. $ L D LA SIERRA RESTAURANT AND TAQUERIA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ L D LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small but thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz are completely bilingual, and as friendly as can be. $ D hf LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356. This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as genuine Mexican as you’ll find. Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel rolls turn a meal here into a real bargain. $ L D f LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Genuine Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a growing immigrant com mu nity. With fresh bar and blender offerings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ L D pf MANGO’S BAR & GRILL 4632 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291, 1921 Bishop Ln., 749-5300. $$ L D

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MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán arguably kicked off the restaurant renaissance in the E. Market St. Nulu district. Opening his stylish bistro, serving distinctive cuisine from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula, before NuLu was fashionable. $$ L D MEXICAN FIESTA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ L D hp MEXICO TIPICO RESTAURANT 6517 Dixie Hwy., 933-9523. One of the region’s first authentic Mexican eateries, Mexico Tipico has built a loyal following for good Mexican food and friendly, fully bilingual service. $ L D pe MEXICO VIEJO 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 893-9880.$LDp PINA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food have another place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $ L D p PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Church Rd., 239-4646. $$ L D p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (14 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ L D f RAMIRO’S CANTINA 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333. Ramiro Gandara bought out his partners and gave his mom, Tina Ruton Escajeda, control of the kitchen. His Mexican restaurant in the heart of Crescent Hill’s restaurant row has a new name and some unique menu items, such as enchiladas verdes, lobster quesadilla, guacamole burger, and shrimp fajitas. And don’t forget Tina’s specialty: scratch-made tamales. Vegetarian choices too, and a full bar. $ L D hpf ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213 Preston Hwy., 962-8898. Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Preston looks like another tacqueria but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and succulent and roasted golden brown. Chicken simply doesn’t get any better than this. $ L D hp

in Southern California, the Taco Tico chain had been gone locally for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ L D TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront. This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ L D TIENDA LA CHAPINLANDIA 1209 McCawley Rd., 384-7075. If those tiny hole-in-the-wall places are the best for real Mexican food, this little South End place will satisfy Okolona’s need for tacos and burritos. $ L D p YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs IN, 903-0313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana restaurant that offers standard Mexican cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ L D hp

BENITO’S BURRITOS 13301 Magesterial Dr., 3845272. If you find yourself out in the East End past Anchorage, you can pop in to Benito’s for a burrito or quesadilla wrapped in your choice of five tortilla flavors: tomato-basil; jalapeño cheddar; herbvegetable; flour; and whole wheat. Fillings include beef, chicken, steak, shrimp and veggies. $ L D CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Crt., 327-3033, 1440 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-2489. The Austin, Texas “unchain,” has two area locations, offering a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and Tex-Mex food at reasonable prices. $$ L D hpf MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 893-6637,

4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 1020 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6637, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fastfood Mexican-American than authentic South-ofthe-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ L D SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 365-1424. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Now with two locations, in St. Matthews and Middletown. $ L D f TACO PUNK 736 E. Market St., 584-8226. (See review under Casual Dining) TUMBLEWEED TEX MEX GRILL & MARGARITA BAR (15 locations). Starting as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany, Tumbleweed grew to become an area favorite serving bold, southwest-inspired food such as burritos, spicy chile con queso, mesquitegrilled steaks, fish and chicken. Each Tumbleweed Margarita Bar offers two dozen tequila varieties and dozens of sweet and tangy margarita combinations. Sip one while savoring the river-view at its flagship River Road location. $ L D hp

ARGO SONS COFFEE 3640 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-9396. The fathers of the guys who run this roastery and wholesaler are brothers, if that helps you figure out the name. The business is mostly wholesale, but there is a classic espresso bar, so you can run in, buy a few pounds of beans and have a nice cuppa. No crullers or Danish, though. $ BEAN STREET COFFEE CO. 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1404. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $

SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ L D SEÑOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville IN, 280-8555, 3105 S. Second St., 368-0876, 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 425-4581, 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 409-9565, 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 742-1900. These Mexican-American eateries are known for their hearty, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casually laid-back, comfortable sports-bar atmosphere. $ L D hpfe SEÑOR TACO 4806 Bardstown Rd., 493-7003. $ L D SIN FRONTERAS 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 292-0901. $$ L D p SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Rd.,459-7776, 520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666, 129 W. Main St., 583-5505. Saul Garcia, owner of this expanding chain, seems to have a knack for finding hot locations to serve his satisfying fare. He was down on Main St.’s museum row before the museums were, took over the former Raw space on the southern edge of the hot Fourth St. Live corridor, and now has his classiest location on Whiskey Row, a handsome renovation with a more sophisticated Mexican decor, and a broader Mexican menu. $ L D hpf TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year Taco Bell was born

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CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. (See review under Bistro/Contemporary.)

and breakfast choices, from bagels to egg sandwiches, have made it a hit. $ B L

COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-2633. $ f

LOUISVILLE TEA COMPANY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 365-2516. Teas of all sorts, pastries and cookies make for a perfect morning snack the English call “elevenses.” $ B L

DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an oldfashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ hf HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE (13 locations) With the absorption of the VINT outlets, Heine Bros. asserts their dominance in the local brewing scene. The stores are always friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches. $ hfe HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ hf THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1458. HobKnobb offers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ fe JAVA BREWING COMPANY 4828 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 339-4744, 1707 Bardstown Rd., 384-3555. These casual spots boasts the ambience of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ fe KAELIN’S COFFEEHOUSE 1801 Newburg Rd., 6322818. This bright addition to the breakfast and caffeine needs of the west side of the Highlands is physically attached to Mulligan’s Bar, which, of course, squats in the space forever to be known as “the old Kaelin’s.” Strong coffee, pleasant service

MRS. POTTER’S COFFEE 718 W. Main St., 581-1867. $ f PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN 218-0611.$ PLEASE AND THANK YOU 800 E. Market St. This little coffee house with a difference serves breakfast and lunch, and offers an eclectic selection of vinyl records, which can be sampled in a listening room. Try the ganache latte, Thai iced coffee, granola parfait, Capriole cheese with honey and grapes on a baguette, or a field greens salad with dried cherries and blue cheese. $ f QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129, 327 W. Cardinal Blvd., 690-5553, 137 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-3426. Fans of this local purveyor of excellent coffee and provider of amenable working spaces can find their caffeine fix and wi-fi hotspot at any of the three locations. $ f RED HOT ROASTERS 1402 Payne St., 569-0000, 901 S. Fourth St. (Spalding University), 585-9911. Drive-through the original take-away joint (entrance off Lexington Rd.) or walk into the little space at Spalding, for your morning latte, coldbrewed iced coffee drinks., or excellent whole beans roasted on the premises. $ SISTER BEAN’S 5225 New Cut Rd., 364-0082. $ f SMOKEY’S BEAN 1451 S. First St., 749-6900. Located on the corner of 1st and Burnett, this coffeehouse and sandwich shop gives good choices to Old Louisville residents. Locally roasted coffee plus frappes. On Friday and Saturday nights sit down and puff on a hookah until 2 a.m. $ hf SONOMA COFFEE CAFÉ 3309 Poplar Level Rd., 3840044. The first outlet in Kentucky of this franchise coffeteria. Rich pastries and smoothies are available along with the coffee $ STARBUCKS COFFEE (35 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820, 231 S. Fifth St., 589-3222. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee. $ e

THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is part of the culinary program at Sullivan University. It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ B CAKE FLOUR 909 E. Market St., 719-0172. This little bakery, with its all-natural ethos and locavore connections, has expanded physically and conceptually. Its crisp dining area opens to the street in good weather, and serves lunch as well as breakfast quiches, along with its popular brownies, cookies and scones. $ f CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 1201 Story Ave., 5612940, 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall Kiosk). Erika Chavez-Graziano continues her chocolate explorations at her artsy shop in the Butchertown Market building on Story Ave., as well as at a kiosk in Oxmoor Mall. Look for esoteric, but luscious, inventive chocolate confections such as beer flavored truffles and avocado soft-centers. $ THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979, 2223 Frankfort Ave., 409-4616, 339 W. Cardinal Blvd., 409-5090. This “new-fashioned” ice-cream parlor made an immediate splash in its original Westport Village location with its intriguing range of flavors (salted caramel, fresh roasted coffee, peanut peanut butter butter), and is in the throes of expansion, into the historic building on Frankfort next to the old Genny’s Diner and in the U of L project at the old Masterson’s site in Old Louisville. $ hf COPPER CUPCAKE 10616 Meeting St., 708-2418. The goodies in this gourmet bakery in Norton Commons are baked by a California Culinary Academy graduate who touts using premium ingredients in her confections. On offer are seasonal breakfast breads, regular and filled cupcakes, cookies, whoopie pies and even peanut butter woofers — bone-shaped crunchy chews for “man’s best friend.” $

TAZZA MIA 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy. (Ramada Plaza Hotel), 499-9719. The Cincinnati-based coffee shop joins the food options at the Ramada Plaza in eastern Jefferson County. Patrons can find breakfast pastries such as Danishes and muffins along with the house-roasted coffees. $

THE CUPCAKE SHOPPE 3701 Lexington Rd., 8992970. You won’t need three guesses to name the specialty at this little St. Matthews bakery, which has gained instant popularity for its wide variety of moist, tender cupcakes, always made in house. $

VINT COFFEE 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060, Now owned by Heine Bros. this Crescent Hill location is the only one that keeps the name that reflects the concept that all their beverages — coffee, tea, ale and wine — will “have a vintage, an annual release cycle.” $ f

DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 368-9280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate wrapped in choux pastry are also available. $

2 DIPS AND A SHAKE 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. Got an ice cream craving? Specifically a Comfy Cow craving but you don’t have the time to rush from downtown to the ’burbs to sate it? Then visit this spot across the street from Actors Theater to get your fix. $ f ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f 80 Winter 2013 www.foodanddine.com

ANNIE MAY’S SWEETS CAFÉ 3110 Frankfort Ave., 384-2667. The only gluten and nut-free bakery in the state caters to customers with dietary issues such as celiac disease and allergies. Cookies, brownies, cakes, pies, wedding cakes all made without wheat, dairy, eggs, soy or tree nuts. Arrive early, before the vegan and allergen-free oatmeal cream pie cookies sell out. $

DESSERTS BY HELEN 3500 Frankfort Ave., 451-7151. Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $$ DUNKIN DONUTS 1250 Bardstown Rd., 290-3865. You will find hot sandwiches as well as doughnuts and coffee, just what you need to get you going in the morning or to get you steady enough to get home at night. $ B L h THE FUDGERY 416 S Fourth St.(Fourth Street Live), 409-7484.$ GELATO GILBERTO 9434 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-7751. Justin and Kristin Gilbert so loved the gelato they ate as students in Italy that they returned there after graduating to study gelato making. Their

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


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popular store draws fans out to Norton Commons, though owners can often be found scooping cones and cups at special events. Their store menu includes pies and crepes as well. $ h GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4994998. The first outpost of the Tennessee bakery chain in Kentucky, this little shop offers a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $ GREAT HARVEST BREAD COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-8573 $ B L HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 1041 Bardstown Rd., 618-3380, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 267-6280, 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 3113 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 590-3580, 2232 Frankfort Ave., 409-6100. $ L D hf HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this down-homey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ B JASMIN BAKERY 3825 Bardstown Rd., 458-0013. This “European-style” bakery offers fresh breads and rolls, as well as Eastern Mediterranean fare, such as gyros and baklava, at reasonable prices. $ B L MARLYCE’S PLACE 1404 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 551-5577. A Triangle Center stop for anyone

needing a sweets fix. Come in to see the line up of elaborately decorated cakes, custom cookies, cupcakes, pies, fudge and sweet breads. Need a cake in the shape of an enchanted castle for your little princess’s birthday? Call Marlyce. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 4269645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ B NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This old-school, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true, bacon. $ B PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your handdecorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ B POLICE DONUTS 12416 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1880. The first incarnation of this jokey concept did not quite work out, but new ownership is trying again, putting out good bakery products at reasonable prices. $ B STATE DONUTS 12907 Factory Ln., 409-8825. $ SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite donut by mid-morning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ B

yogurt dispensers in non-fat and low-fat versions, and several sorbet flavors. A toppings bar provides up to 80 choices: gummi frogs, sprinkles, chocolate and butterscotch sauces, graham crackers — and on and on. Up to eight core yogurt flavors are standard, with the others swapped out seasonally with some of the companies 50 or so additional choices. $ B SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. This long-time southern Indiana home-style bakery is noted for baked goods just like your grandmother made. Its specialty: painted sugar cookies, with designs in white chocolate that change with the seasons and holidays. Also custom cookie and cake designs. $ B SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 899-2008. Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts as well as signature vegetarian lunches. $$ hf SWEETS & SUCH BAKERY 3947 Dixie Hwy., 4491008. A Shively area neighborhood bakery. Cupcakes and cookies, brownies and cake, but its renown stems from the Presidential donut, a cream-filled concoction that won Bill Clinton’s admiration. $ WILLIAM’S BAKERY 1051 N. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN, 284-2867. $ B WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 581-8561 (See listing under Cafés.)

SWEET FROG 10494 Westport Rd., 423-3993, 1401 Veterans Parkway Ct., Clarksville IN, 725-7765, 5909 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-3535, 1987 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-9964. The four locations of this chain offer a wall of sixteen live-culture self-serve

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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MAP INDEX

MAP INDEX

MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 downtown louisville 85 NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill 86 NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews 87 SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel 88 EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage 89 EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown 90 NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport 90 FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder NA NEW MAP 9 under construction 91 NORTH EAST 10 prospect 91 SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek 92 SOUTH WEST 12 shively – pleasure ridge 93 SOUTH 13 old louisville – airport 94 INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs 95 INDIANA 15 clarksville 95 INDIANA 16 jeffersonville

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DOWNTOWN

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(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON

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(NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS

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(SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL

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(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN

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(EAST) HURSTBOURNE SOUTH – FOREST HGILLS – JEFFERSONTOWN

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(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER

(NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT

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(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK

(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT

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(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE

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(SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT

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(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS

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(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

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