Mountain Country Magazine 2008 by Bob Woodall

MOUNTAIN COUNTRY

2008 Traveler’s Guide to Grand Teton & Yellowstone

Vacation Adventures Boating • Hiking • Climbing Biking • Rodeo • Fishing

Mountain Towns National Parks Area Map Wildlife

1988 Yellowstone Fires! 20 Years After

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MOUNTAIN COUNTRY

On the Cover: Cameron Garnick surveys the mountains around Ross Lake in the Wind River Range. Cowboy, outdoorsman, showman, actor, hunter, father, Cameron Garnick passed away last fall while guiding a hunter in the mountains he loved so much. His legacy lives on at the family’s Triangle C Dude Ranch and the Jackson Hole Playhouse. Contents page photos, clockwise from top left: Hiking in the Tetons; grizzly bear in the wild; bronc busting at the rodeo; white-water rafting on the Snake; Aaron Neville performs at Targhee; a cutthroat trout on the line. Publishers Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy dba Focus Productions, Inc.

Art Director Janet Melvin

NATURE

RECREATION

8 12 14 60 67

18 22 25 26 28 30 32 36 40 42 44 48 50 55

America’s National Parks Splender and Hope: the GYE 1988 Yellowstone Fires: 20 Yrs. After Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center National Bighorn Sheep Center

TOWNS 46 50 55 58 61 64 67

Jackson Teton Village Victor & Driggs West Yellowstone Pinedale Cody Dubois

MAPS & DIRECTORIES 68 Business Directory 70 Greater Yellowstone Map

Hiking Biking Community Pathways Rafting the Snake River Kayaking Pioneers Regional Boating Information Fishing Climbing Skateboarding Rodeos Horseback Riding Snow King Resort Jackson Hole Resort Grand Targhee Resort

MUSEUMS 63 Museum of the Mountain Man 66 Buffalo Bill Historical Center

Advertising Sales Jackson Hole & Pinedale Kyli Fox, 307-733-6995 West Yellowstone Janet Melvin, 406-556-8655 Cody & Dubois Bob Woodall, 307-733-6995 Copyright 2008 by Focus Productions, Inc., P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming, 83001. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publishers. Mountain Country is a free visitor’s guide published annually in May and distributed all summer at hundreds of locations throughout Jackson Hole, Cody, and other regional communities, and at information centers throughout the region. To receive a copy in the mail, send $5 to Mountain Country, P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 83001. Our Web site, focusproductions.com, displays this magazine as well as the Jackson Hole Dining Guide and our winter traveler’s guide, the Jackson Hole Skier.

Cover Photo — Bob Woodall

Photo Editor Eric Rohr

Photos, clockwise this page — Wade McKoy (1,5,6); Bob Woodall (3,4); Henry Holdsworth (2)

Editors Mike Calabrese, Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall

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Clockwise from top left: The Sleeping Indian (Sheep Mountain) on the horizon; a pelican glides across the water; swans land among the flock; a grizzly bear forages for roots; a yellow warbler sings natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s song Facing page: The Tetons on a foggy morning, from left: the Middle, the Grand, and Teewinot

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America’s

National Parks

Conserved unimpaired for the enjoyment of this and future generations by Bert Raynes Photos by Henry Holdsworth—Wild by Nature Gallery

he first action by a nation to set aside some publicly held land to satisfy man’s inner needs and emotions—those needs and feelings you can satisfy if you will let Yellowstone’s quiet off-road treasures do so—came during America’s savage Civil War. In 1864 Congress granted the Yosemite Valley to the State of California, with this explicit proviso: “…that the premises shall be held for public use, resort, and recreation; shall be held inalienable for all times.”

Land destined never to be exploited for the benefit of the few, but held in public ownership to benefit all! Thus began an entirely new public-land policy, coming when this nation was at risk and largely still unexplored and unknown. Coming at a time of war, these far-seeing and far-reaching actions to preserve were, indeed, remarkable. Just eight years later, in 1872, Congress authorized Yellowstone National Park, the first national park in the coun-

try, and the first in the world. It’s sometimes said that the national park idea is the “best idea the United States of America ever had.” But even great original concepts often must be refined, improved, and administered. Unforeseen obstacles must be overcome. Perhaps the first challenge in Yellowstone National Park was poaching. For in addition to the geysers, the hot springs, the falls, the forests and lakes, and the yellow stone itself, were ample

Nature is dynamic. The park is always changing... It responds to fires, droughts, climate change, and to varying views on how best to manage facilities and its animals and fish. Need I mention political pressures? Them too. Moose calves stick together, certain their mother is nearby. A mountain lion mother and cub in the lair.

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numbers of large animals, both prey and predator. It very soon became apparent that market-hunting slaughter had to be prohibited, and was in 1883. By 1894, protection for large game animals within Yellowstone was legislated, even as the then-new idea of range management was emerging. And in 1903 President Theodore Roosevelt recognized that the killing off of predators— in this instance mountain lions—has a deleterious effect upon their prey (elk and deer) and ordered it stopped. (Wolves, however, were exterminated in the park and were, in 1995, reintroduced, restoring that essential component of wild creatures belonging there.) Eventually, in 1916, Congress established the National Park Service, whose purpose and management philosophy are worth being reminded of: “The Service thus established shall promote and regulate the use of Federal areas known as parks, monuments, and restorations hereinafter specified by such means and measures as conform to the fundamental purpose of said parks, monuments and reservations, which purpose is to conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and the wildlife therein and to provide for the enjoyment of the same in such manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations.” As you visit Yellowstone National Park, Grand Teton National Park, the six national forests, wildlife refuges, and the private lands surrounding it, comprising what has become known as the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem (GYE), you will experience today’s snapshot. Nature is dynamic. The park is always changing, albeit within those directives. It responds to fires, droughts, climate change, and to varying views on how best to manage facilities and its animals and fish. Need I mention political pressures? Them too. Today, thanks largely to the wisdom and foresight of all those who established the parks and the National Park System and those who have administered it through a learning process since 1872, there remains a place set

Come Explore the World of the

Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep

Photo: Michael P. Flaherty

apart for man and for the beasts. Opportunity elk, coyote to ground squirrel, bald eagle to for you, and habitat for them. Your chance to trout—some 60 animal species and a possible see herds of bison in scenes reminiscent of bird list of over 300 species. Not to mention what early denizens and then explorers wit- insects and allied species, from butterflies to nessed in the 1800s. spiders, moths to What Lewis and mosquitoes. And Clarke documented, ticks. Wildlife going although they never about their lives came closer than pretty much as they about 100 miles of have done for thouwhat is now Yellowsands of years. stone National Park. Do take time to Perhaps you will absorb the scenery, spot a pack of the endless vistas wolves in pursuit of and the small some prey, or a griz- A pine martin hunts for squirrels. scenes. Fill your zly bear digging for some delicacy. Bald ea- eyes and mind with the shining mountains, gles, trumpeter swans, a pair of sand hill the snow-capped peaks, the play of light and cranes. Otters with a trout. distance in the forests, the clarity of the waWhat you are seeing and experiencing in ters, the expanse of sky. Or the drops of rain your visit will look deceptively unchanged gathering on the leaves and dripping off. Fair and unchanging. It distinctly is not. As Henry days or storms. David Thoreau noted, decades before YelAnd give thanks for that “best idea.” lowstone National Park was created, “All naBert Raynes writes a weekly column in the ture is a new impression every instant.” What Jackson Hole News & Guide. He has written you are seeing actually is a success story, four publications covering the birds and anisomewhat like Franklin’s observation about mals of Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks. His most recent book, Winter Wings, our Republic: “If you can keep it.” Wildlife remains in abundance, from the joins Valley So Sweet and Curmudgeon Chroniwolf to the bison, black and grizzly bear to cles in receiving well-deserved, wide acclaim.

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Photos by Henry Holdsworth—Wild by Nature Gallery

by Bert Raynes

The colorful Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River—a big, rugged landscape.

Fill your eyes and mind with the shining mountains, the snow-covered steppes, the blue skies, the play of light and distance in the forests, the animals braving the season. In all too many places on earth, man has altered his pre-existing habitat so drastically that many animal and plant species have vanished. Extirpated, gone forever. Overall, worldwide, the scene and scenario for wildlife verges on the tragic—innumerable species disappearing each year, each day—far above previous rates of extinction in prehistoric times. Deforestation, desertization, single-crop farming practices, overfishing, human overpopulation, and pollution are responsible. Some surviving species were forced to move elsewhere, if they could, or to modify their behavior to exist—or coexist—within the confines or interstices of their new situation. Come to that, man increasingly is forced to do the same. Yet our understanding of, and compassion for, wildlife’s welfare appear to be declining at an accelerating rate. Thankfully, in a few places on the planet, for reasons of enlightened thought and concern, or more likely, a disinterest in them or their habitat, wildlife yet flourish in a relatively natural state. A few places only, despite an increasing body of knowledge which points to the need for there to be very large areas set aside for many animals even to have a chance to exist in something like their prehomoerectus conditions. This is one of those places. When you visit large parks like Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks, yet buffered from urbanization by surrounding national forests and all together making up the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, take every opportunity to absorb all the scenery you can lay your eyes on: endless vistas and small scenes, bear and vole and squirrel and bison; vast expanses not altered by man; wild an-

imals going about their lives largely as they have been doing for thousands of years, behaving in response to instincts which evolved over millions of years (modified to various extents by the presence of post-industrial man during the last two centuries). Preserving what you see hasn’t been easy. By 1872, when America created Yellowstone as the world’s first national park, much of the continental eastern United States had been altered or defiled. Forests had been denuded, soil erosion in the plains was deliberate and would become deadly, animal and fish species were, or would shortly be, decimated. A sorry record, which extends into today, and not compensated for by a slow-growing awareness of the absolute need for conservation and protection. Look ye while ye may at the wonders of Greater Yellowstone and reflect that it could be lost, as it is always under attack, always coveted for other uses. You might want to ally yourself with some of the organizations that devote their energies to retaining or reclaiming some of the continent’s natural resources and treasures. While it’s not possible to return even the Yellowstone region to prehistoric splendor, there have been steps taken in that direction. The wolf was absent for most of the 1900s, man having eliminated and subsequently reintroduced the region’s top predator. Its return is to be celebrated. The wolf belongs in Yellowstone, along with grizzly and black bears, the largest herds of elk in North America, bighorn sheep, and over 60 other mammal species.

Your Headquarters! D3

Two bull moose square off, the Teton range a distant backdrop.

It’s now recognized that biodiversity requires large your eyes and mind with the shining mountains, the areas in which to behave normally: even large parks like snow-covered steppes, the blue skies, the play of light and Yellowstone aren’t guarantees for distance in the forests, the animals ...even large parks like wildlife, or for those who wish to obbraving the season. For a wild animal, Yellowstone aren’t serve wildlife literally wild...espesurviving in the Greater Yellowstone cially when crocheted with roadways guarantees for wildlife, or for Ecosystem requires luck, skill, and good instincts and genes. and trails. The effects of a road, a vis- those who wish to observe So, look ye while ye may. And itors’ center, or campgrounds are wildlife literally wild... manifold. Foot or horse trails are you still can, in the GYE, see various animals responding primarily to major dislocations. Isolation is, except especially when crocheted with roadways and trails. long-held instinctual behavior and for the exceptionally hardy, lost. Ah, but what is left is splendid; relatively little to modern man and you can wait until you get home to join the conservation his many implements. It’s important and rewarding to movement, but don’t forget to do it. Right now, though, fill observe them.

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Fire! —20 Years After The 1988 Yellowstone fires shaped history and forest-fire knowledge

“The reports of my death have been greatly exaggerated” — Mark Twain An eye-watering haze infused the region’s normally crystal-clear air. Trees exploded into red infernos as flames shot upward 300 feet. Giant smoke plumes rose 30,000 feet into the Western skies above America’s first national park, its crown jewel. The Yellowstone was ablaze. Not only was the great conflagration of 1988 racing over the landscape of Yellowstone National Park (YNP), it was blazing across the front pages of newspapers nationwide and filling nightly news reports. The firestorms that had ignited hundreds of thousands of acres of kiln-dry forest were also fueling acrimonious and incendiary debate nationwide. From the park’s gateway towns choking downwind in the smoke, to the halls of con-

gress and the White House, lightning and a cigarette had touched off much more than forest fire. Had nature and man—albeit unwittingly—conspired to bring about this fiery assault on one of the country’s most revered natural wonders? Perhaps. When summer 1988 rolled around, the West was in its second year of parching drought conditions. “Yes, the West was in a drought, ” Yellowstone National Park Superintendent Robert Barbee told Micah Morrison in his book Fire In Paradise, “but Yellowstone was wetter than many parts of the West. April and May had seen precipitation well above normal. June was dry, but my experts predicted that summer rains would come, as they always had, bringing 2 to 4 inches of precipitation. We expected an active but not highly unusual fire season—

10,000, 20,000, maybe 40,000 acres at the most. The forest needed fire (italics added). Of course, if we had known what was going to happen we would have done things differently.” In fact, those who did know Yellowstone felt confident that 1988 would be no different from past years. In Rocky Barker’s book Scorched Earth, Yellowstone Park biologist Don Despain explains that “since 1979 the winters had been getting drier, and springs and summers wetter. The unusual wet spring would be followed by a wetter summer, Despain had surmised. In other years with dry winters, rains would arrive in July, making it difficult for fire to get a start in the pines.” The first fire of the season, on May 29, was quickly doused by the very thunderstorm that started it. “From then on, however,” Barker states, “the forest and rangelands began to dry out uncharac-

Story and photos by Bob Woodall

Wade McKoy photo bottom right

had partly disrupted this natural fire progression and much of Yellowstone had again reached stage-four conditions, the final and most volatile. In 1972, to “right” this situation,Yellowstone had put into place the new “natural-regulation” policy. Lightning-caused fires would be allowed to burn as long as they met certain criteria. Between 1972 and 1987, 234 fires had burned nearly 35,000 acres, apparently sparking no problems or concerns. But 1988 was not to be just another year. By early July of 1988 eight natural fires were burning in the Yellowstone. Park officials saw no need to extinguish them: after all, the pattern of dry winters had always been followed by wet summers. But on July 15 the 300-acre Clover fire suddenly exploded to 4,700 acres and shot the summer’s first column of smoke 20,000 feet into the air.

teristically. The Palmer Drought Severity Index, the official formula developed by the National Weather Service to measure burning conditions by fire officials, went from severe to extreme in less than a month. The Yellowstone fire officials didn’t use or look at it.” Morrison’s book also suggests blind spots in the park fire plan. “Yet by the time Yellowstone officials came to fully accept that this was no ordinary fire season,” writes Morrison, “it was too late. Some have argued that Yellowstone could have hit every single fire hard and early and there would have been no tremendous conflagrations. But that was not the mission. ”Ironically, the mission embraced at that time was known as “natural regulation.” In Guardians of Yellowstone, a memoir published after the fires by Dan Sholly, chief ranger for YNP, Sholly explains the natural-regulation philosophy: “Yellowstone was not meant to be a regulated collection of animals or plants like those in a conservatory or ranch. Instead it was supposed to be more of a preserve, where nature’s players could interact undisturbed. "…Letting nature again take over and burn the forests, as it had been doing since the last ice age,” Sholly continues,“was simply another logical step in the ongoing attempts of the Park Service to return the park’s ecology, as much as possible, to its original state.” Fire was nothing new to the forests and prairies of America. Not just a phenomenon left to Mother Nature, Native Americans had been using fire for thousands of years.“They used it with abandon,” writes Alston Chase in Playing God in Yellowstone. “They kept fires in camps for warmth, cooking, communication, and for warding off predators in the night. They burned around their campsites to keep the brush away and the bugs down. They burned woods to open trails and make roads. They burned to prevent the buildup of combustibles that would later cause a climactic and dangerous forest fire. Recent research has established that the Indian practice of burning around Yellowstone was not only widespread, but had been practiced for millennia (italics added).” Most scientists agree that fire is a vital part of the forest’s natural ecosystem and that it progresses through four stages of ecological succession after a major fire. Charcoal layers in YNP indicate that large fires take place every 250 to 400 years. But fire suppression policy w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

The race was on. Over the next two months, the Yellowstone fires gripped the nation. As the fires tore across park landscape, cries of “put them out” rose across the land as well. Soon the Park Service’s terminology of “prescribed natural fire” was widely supplanted with the somewhat derogatory term,“Let-burn.” To the public and much of the media, the solution was simple: Put out the fires! After all, fire was evil, and it was “destroying” their beloved Yellowstone. The media did its part in fanning the flames of public opposition too. News reports of Yellowstone’s destruction spread like the wildfire itself. But could the fires actually have been stopped? Officialpost-fire reviews concluded that many of the early fires indeed could have been extinguished with aggressive initial attacks. That was not the policy, however, until it was too late.

“Smokey Bear’s army of firefighters was humbled by Black Saturday and the fire behavior they saw in the days after it.”

Photos, clockwise from facing page: A crown fire erupts on the shore of Yellowstone Lake; the next spring and summer saw vigorous regrowth of many plant species; a plume from the Huck Fire, which started on “Black Saturday” when a tree blew across a power line, quickly rose to over 30,000 feet; smoke clouds shadow a freshly burned forest.

The reviews also concluded that the fires that began after July 14, which included the cigarette-, man-caused North Fork fire, most likely could not have been stopped, anyway. The North Fork Fire would dominate most of the news and suppression efforts for the rest of the summer. “Its ignition by man was secondary to the fuel and weather conditions that made it big,” writes Barker. “In this season when decisions about fighting fires and letting them burn were blurred, misconstrued, and misunderstood, the major issue was largely lost on all: Yellowstone’s fire overwhelmed human capacities in the same way that floods, hurricanes, and volcanoes can.” August 20, which saw winds gust to 70 miles per hour, would be dubbed Black Saturday: the Yellowstone fires doubled in size in one day, reaching 480,215 acres. Barker continues, “All of Yellowstone now appeared as one hug-e fire, and it was clear that nature, not humans, was in full control. After Black Satur2 0 0 8 M O U N TA I N C O U N T R Y

M O U N TA I N C O U N T R Y 2 0 0 8

Wade McKoy photos left top and bottom

by firefighters and fire ecologists as ‘stand-replacing fires.’ They are considered an integral and necessary part of a forest’s life cycle. But the last time a stand-replacing fire of this size had scoured the Yellowstone plateau was in the 1700s. By 1988 the forest was once again cocked and loaded. All it needed were the weather conditions to set it off. But an attitude of “fire is evil” had come to grip the public and the media. A “Bambi–Smokey the Bear” mindset had taken over. So regardless of any good that fire might bring, the prevailing attitude by 1988 was that the massive fires signaled the “destruction” of Yellowstone. In fact, as the North Fork fire was bearing down on “Yellowstone’s fires overOld Faithful, Tom Brokaw on the NBC Nightly News said as whelmed human capacities much: “This is what’s left of Yellowstone tonight. No one argues that it will take decades to fix, but already the in the same way that process has started.” floods, hurricanes, and At least he got one thing right. The process had indeed started. And while the political firestorm continued, the volcanoes can.” egg of Yellowstone’s Phoenix was ready to hatch and rise This fire crew, clad in the distinctive yellow fireproof Nomex shirts, were just a small part of the over from the ashes. 50,000 personel that worked for 3 months to control the Yellowstone fires. The hopscotch nature of the fire had created a complex mosaic of burned and unburned patches. The final day, all but the most stubborn fire-suppression advocates 1989 survey reported that nearly a third of the park, had to acknowledge that all the technology, and all the ex800,000 acres, had been affected: 323,000 acres were pertise, and all the firefighters they could muster couldn’t “canopy burns,” whereby all trees were killed, and stop these fires. Smokey Bear’s army of firefighters was 280,000 acres were “mixed burn,” a combination of humbled by Black Saturday and the fire behavior they saw canopy burns and surface burns in which some trees surin the days after it.” vived (the mosaic). Sage and grassland burns, isolated September 6 witnessed one of the conflagration’s last stands of trees, surface burns under unburned canopies, great runs. Old Faithful, the centerpiece of Yellowstone, was and a variety of other burn types made up the rest of the under siege, its imminent demise live on the NBC Nightly affected acreage. News with Tom Brokaw. The North Fork fire had advanced Many of Yellowstone’s plant species are ‘fire-adapted.’ on the area faster than anticipated, trapping tourists and Some (not all) of the lodgepole pines have serotinous cones concession employees. The press scrambled to capture the that only open to release seeds when heated by fire. Where death scene as the firestorm swirled around everyone in these pines burned, 50,000 to 1 million seeds per acre were the Old Faithful area. released. A new cycle of forest growth was poised to erupt. Throughout the chaos, the firefighters kept their heads Fires also stimulated the regeneration of sagebrush, and when the smoke cleared, the Old Faithful Inn and aspen, and willows. Though above-ground parts of most of the area’s buildings remained intact. The final siege would come on September 9 at Mam- In the spring of 1989, the mosaic pattern of the grasses and forbs were consumed by flames, the belowground root systems remained mostly unharmed. moth Hot Springs, park headquarters. The park was fi- fires was evident on many a hillside. In the spring and summer of nally closed and HQ was being evacuated. Fire advanced 1989 the Phoenix hatched, spread its from the south. Officials and firefighters were prepared wings, and soared across the blackfor the worst. But on September 10 the humidity rose and ened landscape of Yellowstone. never dropped, and the wind blew a drizzle in on the fires. Lodgepole pine seedlings sprouted On September 11, as if on cue, the first snows arrived. by the billions, grasses flourished, The cool, moist fall weather persisted, and the active and wildflowers graced the landfire season drew to a close. It took heavy November snows scape. to completely smother the embers. But the debate simNot only were the wildflowers mered. Why had this inferno happened, and why was it back, so too were the tourists and allowed to rage on for so long? the media, intent on seeing and FIRE POLICY TO BLAME? telling the story of Yellowstone’s “reIt was widely believed that the ferocity of the 1988 fires birth.” Time to put a “smiley-face” resulted from decades of fire suppression and the conseback on the “prescribed natural fire” quent build-up of flammable materials. But Baker questions policy. whether that was actually the case for Yellowstone in the But “rebirth” requires death, and summer of 1988. “Despain’s research clearly showed” he while the media and the public—in a writes, “that in the lodgepole forests that dominate Yellowscene reminiscent of a Monty Python stone, fire is tied first to weather, climate, and wind. John movie—had been banging a drum in Burns, the former Targhee National Forest supervisor who 1988, telling park officials to, in a was the first to call for fighting fires in Greater Yellowstone in sense, “Bring out your dead,” Yellow1988, says the strongest evidence that suppression isn’t the stone cried out: “I’m not dead yet!” culprit is the 1910 fires themselves. No one had been fightIn the 20 years since the great ing fires on those forests before the burn.” (In 1910, over a fires of 1988, Yellowstone has shown million acres burned as fires swept across Montana and A crown fire consumes a stand of mature lodgepole pine. (Inset) Most that indeed it was not dead, but in Idaho, wiping towns from the map and killing 85 people.) of the lodgepole pines are ‘fire-adapted’ and have serotinous cones fact remained a flourishing and dyThe massive burns of 1910 and 1988 are characterized that only open to release seeds when heated by fire. namic ecosystem, and although the

In September 1988 a hillside near Midway Geyser Basin shows the fire’s damage. Ninteen years later the same hillside shows its recovery.

fires were large and severe, plants had survived and quickly blanketed the burned forests. The footprint of the fire on the landscape will probably persist for at least a century. For now, however, visitors are treated to stunning displays of vigorous new growth.

“We ended up with a natural laboratory that has allowed us to learn a great deal ... We have an opportunity to show people how this environment has responded in 20 years.” Despite this regeneration, and even after all this time, notes Yellowstone Park Public Information Officer Al Nash, it is “still an ongoing struggle with the perception of what they (the public) think happened and what really happened. “Visitors have an image of this park,” he continues, “and some people have the expectation that there will not be a change.‘88 was quite a change, so it has been difficult for some to accept.” Nash reminds people, “This was unprecedented. We were not certain we knew what to expect (of the recovery). We had a limited amount of information to work

w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

from as to what might historically occur. We ended up with a natural laboratory that has allowed us to learn a great deal.” He urges visitors to return to Yellowstone. “They need to see what this place looks like now. We have an opportunity to show people how this environment has responded in 20 years. They can compare it and their own experience and that of friends and family and get their own scene of Yellowstone 20 years after the fire.”

THE FUTURE? In 1988 the Yellowstone fires were considered an aberration. But it remains the single largest fire complex in the lower-48 states since 1988. Now, however, large fires seem to be the norm. Warmer climates are melting the mountain snowpack sooner and drought grips much of the West. Since 1986, the fire season has grown by 78 days, with six times as many acres burned annually and by four times as many fires of 1,000 acres or more. In Yellowstone several large fires have burned since 1988. “Our ongoing management here looks to allow natural fires to go on in pockets, so we have different age-class forest across the park, and not one large fire as in 88,” says Nash. However, he adds,“We have been struggling. Last year we had our earliest reported fire in March.” And a fire near the East Entrance “was a real challenge for us. We went at it from the go, but there are fewer fire resources and fire-

fighters available. A lot of our requests went unfilled.” Things could get worse before they get better: an old player, the bark beetle, is raising the stakes dramatically. Across the Western forests, it is ravaging millions of acres of pine and spruce. Forest service officials predict that in the next three to five years, the forest in northern Colorado will be entirely killed off. And dead trees fuel fires. Once kept in check by sub-zero winters and well-watered forests, the beetle population is now exploding because of warmer winters and hotter, drier summers. But in Yellowstone, according to Nash, “We don’t see anything as significant (as Colorado’s beetle kill) at this point. It is a big issue in the Greater Yellowstone. We don’t know enough yet if it is coming this way; we are keeping good tabs on it.” The beetles, though, are nibbling at the park’s edges. Visitors traveling from Cody, Wyoming, may be shocked by the vast tracks of beetle-killed trees covering the mountains above the North Fork of the Shoshone River and beyond Sylvan Pass. Perhaps the invasion has been mounted and another act of Yellowstone’s natural history is about to be written. Fire and weather will always be the major players on nature’s vast stage. Enter now beetles and global climate influences, and the plot thickens like the smoke in 1988. In the end, the only thing certain about Yellowstone’s future is that change will play a major role.

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Mountain Hiking

The best avenue to sparkling lakes, stunning vistas, and wildlife by Lora Bodmer

Photos, clockwise from top—Time for this hiker to gaze at the Grand Teton, Gun Site Notch, and Mt. Owen. Some high alpine lakes retain the turquoise color of glacial melt-water. Springs gush from the mountainside like an opened fire hydrant, nurturing an abundance of ferns.

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love to walk, so for me, trails provide the best avenues to the valley’s sparkling lakes, stunning vistas, and wildlife. And while the prospects of walking around the jagged peaks of the Tetons can be daunting, many of these hikes are anything but. In choosing the best trail for your day and group, keep a few things in mind. Day hikes in this area range from 1 to 21 miles and trailheads sit at upwards of 6,200 feet. Try not to bite off more than your group can chew. Jackson’s Search and Rescue team is already overworked and underfunded. Dogs aren’t allowed on hiking trails in Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks, but trails in the national forests surrounding Jackson Hole do allow them. To ensure that they continue to be welcomed

by fellow trail users and land stewards, please keep dogs on leash or under voice control, diligently clean up after them, and restrain them around wildlife. While hiking seems fairly straightforward, some loose guidelines can help everyone maximize their enjoyment of popular paths. Good trail etiquette requires yielding to hikers going uphill and to horseback riders. Staying on trails, rather than taking shortcuts, prevents erosion and reduces our impact on the environment and wildlife. Being aware of your surroundings, both visually and aurally, can not only embellish your experience with the sounds of nature but might also save you from a mountain lion attack, a marauding moose, or a collision with a mountain biker.

Now, enough of the rules already! Let’s get on the trails.

Strolls in the Forest

trails that reach a lake or overlook in less than four miles. The Granite Canyon access begins on the south end of the park near Teton Village. From there, a quick drive lands hikers on a beautiful wooded trail where wildlife often gathers in the cool shade along the creek in Granite Canyon. This year a new series of trails opens to the public in the LSR Preserve, named after Laurance S. Rockefeller, who orchestrated the donation of an additional 1,106 acres to the park before he passed away in 2004. Find more information about the area at the new Preserve Center, on the

Grand Teton National Park offers some spectacular trails that reach a lake or overlook in less than four miles.

(4 miles or less) Getting out to stretch your legs is easy in the Cache Creek area on the east side of Jackson. The Hagen Trail is an undemanding hike and portions of it run parallel to the creek. Look out, though, some sections are also popular with mountain bikers. And the trail system is extensive, so check out the kiosk at the trailhead to weigh your options and find that quiet walk along the creek. Grand Teton National Park offers some spectacular

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WESTSIDE Photos — top left: Wade McKoy; bottom left: Bob Woodall; right: Jeff Diener

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River bottom jaunts, usually the angler's domain, can produce surprisingly rewarding encounters with nature.

winding country lane known as the Moose-Wilson Road. These relatively easy trails lead from the preserve to Phelps Lake and the Tetons. Taggart Lake has a perfect loop trail, which makes it a perennial favorite. The well-maintained route skirts through the glacial moraines at the base of the Teton Cathedral Group. At the halfway point, hikers reach Taggart Lake, a perfect spot for gazing up at the magnificent peaks. Jenny Lake has been rated by some as the most beautiful place in America. See it up close by walking along its shores to Hidden Falls, or simply pay a modest fee and take the boat shuttle across. From the boat dock, a short hike to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point—a super highway of families and high-heeled stumblers during the height of summer—affords countless photo ops. To add distance and get away from the crowds, venture from Inspiration Point into Cascade Canyon as far as your time allows. Just north of Jenny Lake a series of fairly flat trails wrap around String and Leigh lakes. Get a taste of the wetlands, sand beaches, and mountain peaks in a walk under four miles. String Lake is a popular swimming area due to its shallow, warmer waters. “Warm,” however, is a relative term: many travelers might not use it to describe any of the snow-fed lakes or ponds residing at 6,300 feet.

Half- to Whole-day Excursions (4 to 9 miles) While the next two hikes aren’t much longer than those previously described, they start on Teton Pass around 2,000 feet above the valley floor, making every mile a bit more strenuous. When the crowds head for the park in mid-summer, the Ski Lake Trail remains peaceful. The almost five-mile round-trip provides valley views

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and a destination of the lake, ripe for a picnic. Park at the Phillips Canyon trailhead and start walking along the well-marked trail system. A little higher up at the top of the pass, a hiking trail heads south along the ridge. Enjoy ample wildflowers and panoramic views, with the ability to turn around at any point. Opposite Teton Pass, on the east side of Jackson Hole in the Gros Ventre mountain range, Goodwin Lake awaits. A three-mile hike from the trailhead reveals the peaceful, wooded lake. Sometimes its placid waters teem with brook trout. Stop here or, if you are feeling hardy, charge

The hike to Holly Lake climbs over 2,500 feet to a Shangri-La of wildflowers and sparkling water. past the lake another mile-and-a-half to the top of Jackson Peak. In GTNP, combine the shorter Taggart Loop Trail with the Bradley Lake Trail to add a few more miles and an extra lake to the adventure. Head out to Bradley and then cut over the hill to hike the switchbacks down to Taggart for a trip of just over five miles. A slightly longer, but flatter, alternative is the Jenny Lake Loop. The almost eight-mile hike follows the circumference of Jenny Lake, with stunning views up Cascade Canyon. Crowds will be found around the section from the south-lake parking area to the boat dock, but are

sparse the rest of the way. Shave off some of the mileage by hopping on the Jenny Lake boat, which departs from the south-lake parking area throughout the day. Full-day Hikes (over 10 miles) For the hardiest crews, who are ready to get an early start and go for it, here are some full-day adventures. You’ll have to wait until next summer for the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram to provide access to longer hikes, so until then most of the well-marked hikes over 10 miles originate in the park. The hike to Holly Lake starts by circling String Lake before heading up Paintbrush Canyon. It climbs over 2,500 feet to a Shangri-La of wildflowers and sparkling water. The 12-mile-plus hike demands a hearty picnic lunch and plenty of snacks and water. The Lupine Meadows parking area is the starting point for a few longer hikes with some serious vertical. Surprise and Amphitheater lakes sit high on the Teton Range at the foot of some classic, rock-climbing routes. At one point on the series of switchbacks leading up from the parking area, there is the option to turn off toward Garnet Canyon. The mouth of the canyon hosts a field of boulders, but climbing through them is worth it for the peaceful meadow resting at the base of the Middle and Grand Tetons. Black Bears are very common on this route, so remember to make noise to let them know you’re there. Give all wild animals a comfortable distance and try not to startle them. One of the most challenging, yet rewarding, hikes leads up Paintbrush Canyon to Lake Solitude and down into Cascade Canyon. The hefty 20 miles on the Paintbrush/Cascade Canyon Loop marches trekkers up 4,000

vertical to Paintbrush Divide and then down through the mellow, creek-side Cascade Canyon Trail. Solitude Lake sits at the halfway point, providing exactly what its name implies. It can be done in one day, but people often opt to get a camping permit and make it a two-day adventure.

summertime

Photos — Wade McKoy

After scaring away a few friends with the wrong choice in day hikes, Lora Bodmer, owner of Jackson-based Deep Communications, learned that moderation is key to bringing loved ones back for visits year after year.

Swimming is a hiking activity, too, especially in July when lakes have warmed.

Read up There are hundreds of hiking opportunities in Jackson Hole. Local outdoor and bookstores provide volumes of trekking information to keep you busy for a few days—or a lifetime—in the Tetons. While most of the books use Grand Teton in the title, all but one contain hikes that go beyond the national park and into Jackson and the surrounding mountains. Jackson Hole Hikes by Rebecca Woods, $16.95 Woods’ three decades in Jackson Hole help to build what would be best described as an encyclopedia of local trails. With well over 100 hikes spread across surrounding Jackson Hole and the park, this book could keep even the most ambitious local highstepping for years. In addition to detailed trail information, Jackson Hole Hikes features basic wildlife and plant information and local history. Day Hikes in Grand Teton by Robert Stone, $11.95 When I first moved to Jackson Hole, I didn’t have a clue where to start or friends to show the way. What I did have was Stone’s book of day hikes. Throughout the year, I worked my way through almost every one of his 72 recommendations, never getting lost. It is basic, but provides just what a hiker needs: maps, directions, and distances in a fairly compact package. Grand Teton Short Hikes by Carl Schreier, $3.95 In addition to a much more extensive volume on hiking the Tetons, Schreier publishes a pocketsize, big-value version filled with shorter hikes. It has a small sampling of half- to whole-day hikes in the park and around Jackson Hole. A Falcon Guide: Best Easy Day Hikes Grand Teton by Bill Schneider, $7.95 If your hiking will be contained within the national park, this pocketsize, straightforward book is a solid choice. It is in the familiar Falcon Guide format and includes a limited selection of hikes, but still more than anyone could cover in a week. Day Hikes and Short Walks of Grand Teton National Park by Charlie Craighead, photos by Henry H. Holdsworth, $4.95 This guide selects the best short hikes and easy walks from the over 250 miles of trails that wind through Grand Teton National Park and includes maps, hiking tips, scenic highlights, and natural history notes of the trails. It works well for those who may only have a day or want to explore several different places over a week. Best of Grand Teton National Park by Charlie Craighead, photos by Henry H. Holdsworth, $4.95 This guide presents the park’s best natural features, activities, and sights as selected by the experts. From best bets to see moose to the best places to go on a rainy day, this guide features the wildlife, wildflowers, hikes, history, scenic drives, and classic photo spots you don’t want to miss.—Lora Bodmer w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Teton Village Sports is your source for everything outdoors including fishing, disc golf, swimming, trekking, running, biking, hiking and a huge selection of men’s and women’s sportswear. Located at the gateway to Grand Teton National Park, stop by and get outfitted with the things you need for your time in Jackson Hole. We also enjoy winter all year long with skis, snowboards, boots, outerwear and accessories at savings of up to 70% off.

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by Brigid Mander hen Jackson Hole snow finally melts, locals find plenty of adrenalin-based ways to pass the time until the next ski season. One that fits into all walks of life is the hugely popular biking scene. Cyclists are out in force during Jackson summers, and they form a vast community, from bicycle commuters to serious roadies, from body armor-clad, gravity-riding girls and boys to toddlers with training wheels on the paved bike paths. The buzz surrounding Jackson as a mountain-biking destination grows every year. Steep terrain, huge vertical, vast open spaces, and diverse natural features define the area’s potential. In 2004, local U.S. Forest Service officials realized that the growing popularity of mountain biking called for action. A Wyoming State Trails Grant helped get development of a new trail plan off the ground. Shortly afterwards, a crew of dedicated local bikers formed the non-profit Teton Freedom Riders (www.tetonfreedomriders.org), to boost mountain-biking’s profile and promote cooperation among riders and the Forest Service. In their short tenure as caretakers of bike trails on Teton Pass and the Greater Snow King Area, these volunteers have worked with the Forest Service to build safe and challenging trails, ease conflicts among equestrians, hikers, and other users, and promote responsible mountain biking through education. With trails coveted by hikers, dog walkers, horse riders, runners, and mountain bikers,‘respect and responsibility’ has become the mantra to ensure everyone can get along. Trails on Teton Pass range from intermediate to world-class gaps and drops. Hardy cyclists often ride up the Old Pass Road, while others shuttle their bikes to the summit by car. But once at the top, everyone enjoys a bit of rolling, uphill single-track and spectacular views as they ride out to their downhill trail of choice. New multi-use paths, coming in 2008, are designed with the cross-country mountain biker in mind. One such trail starts midway up the Teton Pass highway and easily gains the top of Phillips

Biking

Ridge, then offers a long spectacular intermediate descent back to the valley floor. Other routes, thanks to Teton Freedom Riders (TFR) and in compliance with the Forest Service, are downhill-specific trails, and part of the first network of legal trails on National Forest land reserved primarily for downhill biking. This mix of enhanced natural features is a result of cooperating with the Forest Service. These descents sport features that will challenge the boldest riders. But all the downhill trails also provide easy ways to avoid the man-made log drops, dirt jumps, or rock rides. “We wanted it that way,” says Kevin Kavanagh, TFR’s president. “It’s a progressive sport. You don’t just go out and hit thirty-foot gaps the first time you see one.” The Cache Creek trailhead, in East Jackson, and the Greater Snow King Area offer a much wider choice of trails than Teton Pass, with a network of buffed-out interlocking loops, ascents and descents, and less-technical, shorter rides. These and the Teton Pass trails—maintained by TFR, Friends of Pathways, and the Forest Service—can be previewed in TFR’s field guide, available for free in local bike shops, or on the Friends of Pathways website. Jackson Hole’s single-track trails provide mountain bikers with ideal riding conditions, especially during the height of wildflower season.

Photos — Top left: Jeff Diener; bottom left and top right: Wade McKoy

Mountain & Road

For an ever-growing community of bicyclists, Jackson Hole Rocks!

The Tetons, of course, are hemmed in by valleys on both sides, and many riders head over to the Idaho side of Teton Pass, seeking terrain and scenery that differs a bit from Jackson Hole’s. The area surrounding Driggs and Victor, Idaho, boasts more rolling terrain and cross-country type trails than the Jackson area. A fair number of Idaho routes have a wonderful, pastoral feel to them. Still, Driggs-based semi-pro downhill racer Pete Maniaci finds plenty of challenges

ing,” says an ever-enthusiastic Pete. “When I first moved here [six years ago], if you saw a bike on a roof rack you knew exactly who they were. Now bikes are everywhere!” Beautiful, challenging terrain can be accessed from the 12 trailheads within 15 minutes of Driggs. Teton Valley Trails and Pathways (www.tvtap.org) also produce a trail map, available in shops on both sides of Teton Pass. For novices and up, Grand Targhee is expanding its lift-served mountain-biking trails this summer. Several top-to-bottom trails offer a variety of terrain for bikers. On the other side of the pass, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort has 7.5 miles of trail networks on its lower mountain. Many area bikers, like Amanda Carey, cross-train on roads and trails. When not traveling the nation competing on the KendaTitus-Hayes professional mountain bike team, Amanda spends about 50 percent of her time training on local highways and roads. “This is such a great community to ride a bike in,” she says. “Everyone is really into getting people out on bikes.” If you aren’t the type to sport a tee proclaiming, “I heart dirt,” you are still in luck. Road biking itself boasts its own strong following in the region, and for good reason. Serious local riders are out pounding the pavement as soon

Cyclists range from bicycle commuters to serious roadies, from body armor-clad downhillers to toddlers with training wheels on the paved bike paths. in local trail features, enough to help him in his quest to climb competitive down-hilling’s ranks. Under the auspices of Teton Valley Trails and Pathways, and with the help of dedicated competitors like Pete, Idaho—particularly the Teton Basin region—is gaining popularity as a biking destination. “It’s grow-

Road cyclists utilize all pavement—county roads, state highways, park roads, town streets, and pathways—to recreate, exercise, and commute.

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website for maps and other road-condition reports and future path plans. Local bike shops stock everything riders need: equipment, repair kits and tools, clothing suited to our volatile weather changes, sunscreen, maps, and a plenty of local knowledge. Be aware of the weather forecast for the day and how long a ride could take. Anyone who has been caught out after sunset or gotten soaked in a bone-chilling afternoon rainstorm won’t soon forget the misery. Shop employees are more than happy to offer information and increase interest in the sport. So don’t be afraid to ask questions before you head out on the road or the trail—the information could make a great ride a truly spectacular one.

Steep terrain, huge vertical, vast open spaces, and diverse natural features define the area’s potential.

Photos — left page 2: Greg Von Doersten; right: Wade McKoy

as the roads are free of snow, making for a long bike season. So, whether you want to coast along burbling creek waters or hammer out a grueling, mountainous century (100-mile session), you have your pick of options. Beautiful, scenic rides stretch north, south, and even around the Tetons for those up for a multi-day trip. Unfortunately, biking inside Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks can be a harrowing experience amidst peak summer traffic. Early and late summer are much more enjoyable times to experience these parks’ beauty from a bicycle. If you don’t want to be near cars or dirt, Jackson Hole Community Pathways and local advocate Friends of Pathways (www.friendsofpathways.org) have worked hard on the development of paved non-motorized pathways interconnecting Teton Village to the Wilson/Teton Pass area, around Jackson and south of town—over 30 miles to date. Check the

A freelance writer currently pedaling for food in Jackson Hole, Brigid Mander hopes someday to be able to live in a house with running water.

Bicycling West Yellowstone, Montana West Yellowstone’s world-famous XC ski trails do more than just go to seed when the snow melts. And smart skiers swap their boards for bikes to take advantage of the summer season’s call. From the edge of town cyclists can ride Rendezvous Ski Trails’ 30 kms of smooth, rolling single-track through forests of lodgepole pine. For info on these and other good mountain-bike routes on old logging roads and hiking trails, check with West’s local bike shop. Road bikers get a special treat in spring and fall, when Yellowstone park byways see little or

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no motorized travel. Plowed in mid-March— the exact date is weather-dependent—park roads remain closed to motor vehicles until April 20. That gives bikers in West Yellowstone about a month to ride the park traffic-free and another month of light-traffic travel after the roads are opened to all vehicles and before the busy summer flow. The early season wildlife viewing is spectacular! Follow the Madison River for a short ride—or bike all the way to Mammoth and back for a 104-miler. — Mountain Country

Top and above: The Cache Creek trailhead, in East Jackson, and the Greater Snow King Area offer a network of buffed-out interlocking loops, ascents and descents, less-technical, shorter rides, big climbs, day-long excusions—in other words, everything.

Community Pathways by Tim Young A momentous occasion in the history of biking pathways in Jackson Hole took place this spring—30 years after the initial discussions between pathways advocates and the U.S. Park Service. The highly celebrated groundbreaking ceremony for a non-motorized paved pathway system in Grand Teton National Park was attended by Wyoming’s U.S. Senator John Barrasso, Grand Teton National Park Superintendent Mary Scott, and pathway supporters from around the country. Through the visionary leadership of Wyoming’s late Senator Craig Thomas and the continuing support of his successor, Senator Barrasso, Congress appropriated about $10 million to begin park pathway construction. The inaugural phase The Paul Merritt Trail winds through South Park south of Jackson. planned for construction this summer is a four-mile section from Taggart Trailhead to Jenny Lake, plus a Future pathways in Grand Teton short pathway in Moose. In 2009, the park hopes to finNational Park will facilitate Jackson ish the pathway connection from Moose to Jenny Lake and in the following years complete the world-class, 41Hole’s transit shift from motor-only mile pathway system that will eventually join all the to multi-modal, with an emphasis major front-country destinations in the park. The park’s on visitor-friendly, world-class new transportation plan also includes safety improvements such as better shoulders for cyclists on some bicycle and pedestrian routes and main roads and information for motorists to more a growing transit system. safely share all park roads with bicycles. This new path is the latest in an active pathway construction program that is transforming travel throughout and tourists alike.You’ll see an eclectic collection of bikes, or Jackson Hole from “motor-only” to “multi-modal,” with a maybe even meet Jackson’s Mayor Mark Barron or Councilvisitor-friendly focus on world-class bicycle and pedes- woman Melissa Turley heading to their next meeting via trian routes and a growing transit system. The valley now their trusty bicycles. Using non-motorized transportation is boasts over 30 miles of high-quality paved pathways, and becoming a part of the town and county’s commitment to releaders are focusing on connecting them by planning the ducing its carbon footprint 10% by 2010. remaining missing sections. Current favorites for many visitors are west-side pathways that connect historic Wilson at the base of Teton Pass with the Aspens, Teton Village, and Grand Teton National Park’s Granite Creek entryway. Two pathways, the Wilson Centennial and Moose Wilson Trail, provide about 10 miles of continuous paved pathways, all of it separated from the highways. The Wilson Centennial Trail boasts large open parks and interpretive stops, and new rest areas will welcome visitors this year along the Moose Wilson Trail, Ed Henry’s Bench, and Priscilla’s Spot on Granite Creek at the north end of the pathway. Maps are available at local bike and sports shops. The town of Jackson is the regional hub of these bicycle routes, and joins other leading communities in the Greater Yellowstone region that support high-use bicycle and pedestrian routes. Cycling and hoofing it around the town street grid is an increasingly viable option for short trips by locals w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Walk, roll, take a stroll Pathways connect Jackson with south of town and Game Creek along the splendid Paul Merritt and Von Gontard trails, and extend farther south via the Henry’s Trail to Horse Creek. These paths provide a great connection to the popular Cache-Game mountain bike loop—riders can skip the shuttle and ride the path back to town for an added workout and reduced carbon emissions. The Jackson Hole community is working hard to complete the main pathway system. Next up is the WY-22 pathway connecting Wilson to Jackson—a top priority to connect east and west sides of the Snake River. A separate pathway bridge is also being considered. Leaders are planning a tax ballot in November to fund construction, and previous pathway ballots have all passed with top voter approvals. The community pathway system also includes connections to other popular public land trails, like the Old Pass Road to the top of 8,431-foot Teton Pass. It follows the historic highway that was in use from the early 1900s until 1970, and is a classic switchback ascent of a highmountain pass like the famous ones in the Tour de France. The route is passable by road bike, and is often combined with a loop down the main highway back to Wilson. There is great hope for a connected regional pathway system in the near future as Jackson Hole, Grand Teton, and Teton Valley all work to complete their pathways. These non-motorized routes will enhance sustainable ways to travel throughout the Tetons. Tim Young is the executive Director of Friends of Pathways, the local non-profit advocacy group supporting pathways, complete streets, and great trails in Jackson Hole and the region.

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River Rafting

Alpine white-water and scenic float trips top vacation adventures by Lauren M. Whaley ur driver, Larry, chatted cheerily to his white school bus full of nervous, sleepy-eyed rafters en route to a morning adventure of splashing and squealing. Meeting characters like Larry and other drivers, office staff, and professional guides from outfitters around Jackson Hole is just one of many reasons that rafting in the Greater Yellowstone region is a summer vacation must-do. The eight-mile white-water stretch of the Snake River just south of the town of Jackson may offer the finest oneday introduction to rapids in the country. Visitors have many choices for experiencing the rapids, ranging from a self-guided sit-on-top kayak to a sit-back-and-relax fully guided ride. The mist was rising from the valley as we gathered on a July morning for our rafting trip. It was cold. “All aboard,” Larry called to the parking lot. We piled on—three girls from Baltimore, a family from Texas, an older couple from Syracuse, and several singles from suburbs around the country. I was the only local but, like the rest of the group, a newbie to rafting the Snake River. Head guide Matt Lynn doled out paddles. I claimed

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front left, which means I controlled the tempo for the row of paddlers behind me … and got the wettest. After emerging safe and adrenaline-pumped from the first rapid, I forgot the morning grogginess and started to

For the all-day adventurers, outfitters offer a float/whitewater combo, where the morning is spent lolling down the upper portion of the Snake and the afternoon is spent yelping down rapids. crave the roar of white water around each bend that promised another stomach-dropping, hard-paddling, wet ride. I wanted more. On the flatter sections in between rapids, we glimpsed

bald eagles above and silent lodgepole pines holding post on rocky walls. At those moments, and those just before plunging my paddle into the next wave, time stood still and I noticed the sun sparkle, the branches above quiver, the clouds blow by. And, at each rock or turn, there was a story. “That there is called Vice President Rock,” Matt said. “That’s called Bear Cave.” Some of the stories seemed a bit far-fetched, like the one about the car on the river bottom, but before we had time to turn around and question our guide, he’d shout “Left Forward” and I’d plunge my paddle into a rolling wave. The splash-and-squeal trips may sound burly, but they’re totally family friendly. If my six-year-old sister were tall enough when she visited last summer, I would have taken her. For those who don’t want the responsibility of paddling, but still want the experience, the middle seats are for you. Just hold on and enjoy the ride. And don’t forget to smile at Big Kahuna Rapid. Photographers are shooting frames just as the raft enters the giant frothing hole at the end. Once you’re back in town you can purchase the photos.

Photos — left: Bob Woodall; right: Greg Von Doersten

Left: The famous rapids of the Snake River Canyon thrill adventurous rafters, especially those who man the oars. Above: Scenic float trips on the upper Snake River provide moments of silence and reflection worthy of the setting.

Don’t want to get wet and wild? Try a scenic trip. This float often starts in Grand Teton National Park on a sparkly bit of the Snake River winding below the Teton Range. On this mellow float, you’ll sunbathe, eat, and enjoy the quiet while looking out for some of the region’s famous fauna. Moose, elk, deer, bison, pronghorn antelope, black and—sometimes—even grizzly bear can all be seen along the shore. The relaxing upper stretch of braided, meandering water will take you past what feels like vast wilderness. Keep your eyes and ears open, as your guide will share stories of the valley’s history, point out blooming wildflowers, and detail the geology of some of the youngest mountains in our country, all while dense spruce and lodgepole

forests give way to cottonwoods and aspens. You may even spot a river otter or beaver poking its head out of the Snake to watch you. For the all-day adventurers, some outfitters offer a float/white-water combo, where the morning is spent lolling down the upper portion of the Snake and the afternoon is spent yelping down rapids. Shuttle service, lifejackets, and paddles are also included, and you’ll often find Larry waiting at the end passing out cold sandwiches to drenched, smiling customers. Lauren M. Whaley hopes one day to find a meaningful, structured job. Until then she continues her freelance writing career while seeking adventure in Jackson Hole and beyond.

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Alpine Kayaking

The Shorter They Got, The Steeper We Went

Aaron Pruzan on the Middle Fork of the Popo Agie River in the Wind River Mtns.

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Photos — top and facing page: Evan Stafford; left: Greg Von Doersten

By Aaron Pruzan ackson Hole is world-famous for its great snow. But what happens when that white blanket melts? It turns into white water, also worthy of worldly repute. For years, river runners from near and far have enjoyed the classic white water of the mighty Snake River, the tumultuous Gros Ventre River, and the scenic Bitch Creek, to name a few. Throughout the ‘60s and ‘70s most kayakers were content with the annual thrill of riding the runoff down fun and familiar rapids. But some boaters yearned for more. And, as with most sports that involve dancing with gravity, improved technology helped these adventurers push the boundaries. Early river-running kayaks were fiberglass. One word changed that—plastics. In the ‘80s, molded plastic kayaks like the 11’ 6” Perception Dancer (most white-water kayaks at the time were 12-to-13 feet long) became popular, and challenging difficult white water became a new game. Suddenly, hitting a rock didn’t mean a broken boat. Steeper rivers and creeks, many channeling insane white water and previously considered unnavigable, began to look good. Local “hair boaters,” like Dave Pennington, Charlie Thomas, and Oly Koehler, began to probe the possibilities. This involved exploring farther up drainages like the Upper South Fork of the Buffalo, or merely paddling what had previously been portaged, the Bone Yard on the Teton River, for example. As kayaking entered the ‘90s, boat designs began to radically change, and as a result, paddling techniques improved and adapted. Dagger introduced a high-performance plastic boat called the Freefall. Super maneuverable at only 9’ 6” long, everyone in the region witnessed what the Freefall could do when an extraordinary boater named Gregg Goodyear moved to town. With superior boat handling skills and the ability to see a clean line through rapids that appeared impossible, Gregg was truly ahead of his time. Exploration of the vast, untouched white water of the Wind River Range began in earnest and I was lucky to be along for the ride. Whether we were pinballing down Blackrock Creek, howling through the subterranean waterways of Warm Springs Creek Canyon, or sliding down the Upper Popo Agie, each spring we upped the ante with steeper white water and more possibilities. At the time, we didn’t think anything would ever trump the Freefall, which we had all trusted for our

Jackson, Wyoming

Summer Rentals

Evan Ross tackles Wind River Range white water (above and facing page).

local explorations as well as our forays into the Box of the lenge. While there were many spectacular rapids, much Clarks Fork Yellowstone and an early heli-kayaking tour of of the river was too steep to paddle. We had found our New Zealand. Technology was moving forward, though, limit. After 12 hours of running questionable rapids and and we were going down with it. In the spring of 1998 the hiking arduous portages, we were still miles from our des8’4” Wave Sport “Y” hit the scene. With blunt ends and a tination, forcing an unplanned bivouac. Next morning, flat hull that turned on a dime, this boat ushered in the another five hours of hectic river running finally brought us back to civilization. “hike in” era, which would Although beaten take us higher and steeper down, this humbling exthan ever before. Pinballing down Blackrock Creek, perience didn’t dull my To go higher and access howling through the subterranean enthusiasm for exploring. the steeper creeks in the One canyon in particular Wind River Mountains waterways of Warm Springs Creek had always aroused intermeant we were on foot— Canyon, sliding down the Upper est for kayakers driving few roads travel into the inHighway 287 south of terior of the range. Popo Agie, we kept upping the Dubois, where Bull Lake Fortunately, these shorter Creek cuts a dramatic boats were not only easier ante with steeper white water and gorge as it plunges down to paddle, they were also more possibilities. from the Continental Diless awkward to carry. Dave vide. It was time. Brady Collins, a pro kayaker who and I had to take a closer summers in Cora, Wyoming, and 16-year-old protégé Brady Johnston joined look. Recon from the bottom confirmed our suspicions: me for our first major hike-in adventure, eight miles up this was world-class white water, but getting to the top the New Fork River. With amazing scenery, trailside ac- was going to be tough. Vermont slalom ace Silas Treadway and the latest local cess, and the steepest and scariest white water we had ever wonder-boy, Evan Ross, joined us for this mission. While experienced, the New Fork was worth every step. After poring over maps and measuring gradient, we we had a strong team, we faced 20 miles of trail—with two knew the North Fork Popo Agie River was our next chal- passes near 11,000 feet—not to mention the thundering

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Western Waterways Bridger Teton National Forest Class III and IV white water on the Snake River begins at West Table and runs eight miles through the Snake River Canyon. Self-registration, while not required, is available at West Table. On the Web: www.snakeriverfund.org Info: (307) 739-5444. Other rivers in the area offer everything from serene scenery to challenging rapids. On the Web: www.fs.fed.us/r4/btnf. Everything you wanted to know about recreating on regional and national federal land. Or call (307) 739-5400 for information on running the Buffalo Fork, Gros Ventre, Hoback, or Greys rivers. Other lakes in the area: Slide Lake, east of Jackson (windsurfing, sailboats, paddle craft); Palisades Reservoir, at Alpine Junction (power and sailboats).

Yellowstone National Park In Yellowstone National Park, motorboats, canoes, rowboats, kayaks, sailboats, and windsurfers are allowed on Yellowstone and Lewis lakes, but only paddle boats on Shoshone Lake. All other rivers and lakes are closed to boaters. Life preservers and permits are required. Boats can

M O U N TA I N C O U N T R Y 2 0 0 8

be rented at Bridge Bay Marina. Online: www.nps.gov/yell. Info: (307) 344-7381.

West of Yellowstone West of the park, the Madison River provides white water from Ennis Reservoir through Bear Trap Canyon and idyllic floating to its confluence with the Missouri River. Info: (406) 683-8000. For even more info go to www.blm.gov and then the Dillon field office section. Everything from powerboats to paddle craft can put in on four lakes near West Yellowstone. Outboards can be rented at Hebgen Lake, and paddle boats and motorized “personal watercraft” are available at Henry’s Lake. Call West Yellowstone’s chamber of commerce at (406) 646-7701 or go online: www.westyellowstonechamber.com

Green River & Pinedale Area The Green River between Pinedale and Big Piney is primarily utilized for fishing. For information, go to www.blm.gov/wy and pull up a cool map of every BLM field office and district in the state. Just point and click. The short story: Fremont and Half Moon lakes, near Pinedale, allow paddle craft and power and sailboats; and Green River Lakes, north of Cora, allow paddle craft only.

Cody & the North Fork In Cody, river runners can catch Class III rapids on the North Fork of the Shoshone River from Yellowstone Park to the reservoir, or combine placid water with Class IV rapids on the main Shoshone from the reservoir to just past town. River info: www.blm.gov/wy is the place to start. For hiking and camping info go to www.fs.fed.us/r2/shoshone or call (307) 527-6921. Water skiing, fishing, and windsurfing are enjoyed on the Buffalo Bill Reservoir, west of Cody. Info: (307) 587-9227.

KAYAKING IS FOR EVERYONE Kayaking in and around Jackson Hole isn’t all about gnarly white water. In fact, on the Snake, only the last 10 miles above Palisades has water that is really white. Above that there’s over 60 miles of Snake River that flows through the valley at a moderate pace, with many stretches perfect for beginning and novice paddlers. Beyond the Snake, Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks offer the best kayak touring in the Rockies. There are many excellent day tours on Slide, Jenny, Jackson, String, Leigh, Lewis, and Yellowstone lakes. Paddling to the southern arms of Yellowstone Lake or exploring Shoshone Lake offers an incredible multi-day adventure, as kayakers and canoeists can reach secluded campsites accessible only by hand-propelled craft. Paddling is a unique way to enjoy solitude even during the busiest of times of summer. Check out Rendezvous River Sports or Snake River Kayak & Canoe for more information or to book a tour. — Aaron Pruzan

Photos — top left: Jonathan Selkowitz; left: Wade McKoy; right: Greg Von Doersten

Grand Teton National Park Boating is restricted to non-motorized craft, except on Jackson and Jenny lakes, where powerboats are allowed. Launches along the Snake River access a variety of waters, some dangerous. Life preservers and boat permits are required. Info: (307) 739-3399. Canoes, pontoon boats, and small powerboats can be rented at Signal Mountain or Colter Bay marinas on Jackson Lake. Boaters will have to register their craft at the Moose Visitors’ Center, where more information is available in the country’s newest and coolest visitors’ center. Save time by going to: www.nps.gov/grte

continued from pg 29 white water beyond. Prepared for a five-day journey, we secured our Wind River Reservation permits and hired horse packers. But when we arrived at their camp, the horse packers refused to carry our kayaks, insisting that the trail was too rugged for the horses to negotiate with boats banging on their backs. Although discouraged, we weren’t turning back now. Loading our gear on the horses and strapping our boats on our backs, we began the hardest hike we had ever known. Nine blistering hours later we made it to our put-in at Deadman Lake. Morning brought us white-water Nirvana as we descended beautiful waterfalls, crystalline pools, and granite-studded rapids too numerous to name. We found ourselves in several tight spots, probing walled-in canyons with do-or-die consequences. But with skill, a little luck, and our “Ys,” we made it through. On the afternoon of the fourth day, we emerged safely at the river’s mouth, having completed what is now considered among the best steep-creek runs in the world. Where will paddling the steeps go next? With young guns like Evan, Brady, and their peers continuing to test the limits and constant improvements in skills and equipment, the elusive cutting edge will continually move forward. And with over 600 inches of famous Jackson Hole snow melting this year, I’m sure more unexplored and unbelievable white water will be found.

F I N E J E W E L RY & WATC H E S

Aaron Pruzan, owner of Rendezvous River Sports, has introduced thousands of people to kayaking’s joys. At the forefront of river stewardship in the Jackson Hole area, he continues to compete, explore new rivers, coach local teens. Facing page: Kayaking on Jackson Lake at the foot of the Tetons Below: The author’s portage into the New Fork River in the Winds

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Mountain Fishing

Greater Yellowstone’s Waters – The best angling in the world By Paul Bruun

M O U N TA I N C O U N T R Y 2 0 0 8

sometime in mid-June while lower-elevation and larger reservoirs where wind aids in thawing might be ice-free in mid- to late May. Targeting lakes during early river runoff periods is a practical plan for anglers to consider. Schedule hikes, backpacking and pack trips accordingly.

National Park Access The dates of fishing seasons on various waters in states surrounding Yellowstone National Park may vary slightly. A majority of the waters are fishable by Memorial Day weekend. Yellowstone Park requires purchase of a fishing permit, available from visitor stations. Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks require the purchase of a boat permit, not only for sail and powerboats but also for float tubes and pontoon boats. Yellowstone entrances and ranger stations sell fishing permits and boat permits. Grand Teton boat permits are available at the Moose Visitor Center. A Wyoming fishing license is necessary in Grand Teton.

Trout-harvest Concepts Trout seasons on Wyoming’s Snake and South Fork of the Snake in Idaho now include year-round fishing. The trout harvest season in Wyoming runs from April 1 through October 31 for cutthroat trout. Catch-and-release cutthroat fishing is permitted between November 1 and March 31. Idaho biologists have implemented an annual catch-and-release regulation on all cutthroat trout in the South Fork of the Snake as well as a special limit on brown trout. This is an effort to protect native cutthroat strains from a growing rainbow trout intrusion and potential hybridization. Idaho regulations encourage unlimited and year-round harvest of rainbows to protect cutthroat spawning, especially on the upper South Fork. The concept is not without controversy. Some anglers and outfitters prefer to release the rainbows they capture, while others may elect to keep a few.

Photos — top left: Jeff Diener; right 2: Wade McKoy

hat a difference a year makes! As Wyoming fishermen plan for summer 2008, there is universal agreement that the abundant-to-record snowpack in almost every portion of the Cowboy State has been beneficial to the natural resources. Naturally, a lot of spring and summer runoff activity depends on the timing of additional moisture that arrives in May and June. Daily temperatures will also affect when and how quickly this big snow pile melts. Even as skiers and snowmobilers got in their last runs before “mud season” descended, fishing on some rivers in the Jackson, Cody, Eastern Idaho, and Dubois areas already has been good-to-excellent. A year-round fishing season designation for many of the major western rivers is always enthusiastically greeted by trout addicts, who are ready to begin casting as soon as the milder periods of February and March arrive. One thing about 2008 is certain, and it is that federal water managers will have enough snowpack to fill a majority of the reservoir capacity in the Greater Yellowstone region. Full reservoirs that meet agricultural irrigation demands also mean a fishing season with adequate stream flows to maintain a healthy trout population. This is especially welcome after Montana/Yellowstone National Park experienced emergency midday fishing closures during the summer heat of 2007. This year pre-runoff angling will be favorable, but may occur before most visitors arrive. Extra snowpack often means longer-lasting runoffs and later-than-usual lake iceoff conditions. Before scheduling a backcountry trip, especially during May and June, obtain current lake and river access information and avoid the disappointment of arriving at a still-frozen lake or a runoff-swollen stream. Many superb trout rivers lie within an easy day’s drive from northwest Wyoming. It is possible to base yourself in the Jackson, Cody, West Yellowstone or similar areas and explore and fish a variety of locations on day trips. River and stream levels vary because drainage runoff timetables differ. Higher-altitude lakes often are not free of ice until

Left: Flat Creek on the Natinal Elk Refuge is home to trout in the bragging-rights range. Above: A native cutthroat trout battles an angler’s skills in a secret spot’s pristine waters.

Even as skiers and snowmobilers got in their last runs before “mud season” descended, fishing on some rivers in the Jackson, Cody, Eastern Idaho, and Dubois areas already has been good-to-excellent. Biting insects are especially present in irrigated ranch lands and locales that harbor standing snow melt during the early season. Full-coverage clothing and repellent are helpful. Keep a current aerosol pepper-spray dispenser handy whenever fishing/hiking/camping in bear country (which is just about everywhere). Remember that bears like to fish, too.

Regional Fishing Destinations

Remember: If you can see ‘em, they can see you.

Be Prepared Visitors focused on fishing should also be aware of storms, insects, and bears. High-elevation weather conditions change rapidly. A sharp drop in temperature accompanies fast-moving mountain storms that dispense chilling winds and possible combinations of rain, hail, or snow. For insurance pack an extra fleece jacket or insulated vest and sturdy rainwear. Graphite rods attract lightning: Cease casting during thunderstorms! w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Jackson Hole In addition to its own excellent fisheries, great angling destinations surround Jackson. Many visitors base in Jackson and make day-fishing trips outside the valley. Portions of rivers like the Hoback, Salt, and Greys are open year round. The Snake is world headquarters to its own subspecies—the fine-spotted cutthroat trout—and is also Wyoming’s largest Blue Ribbon River and a popular major attraction fished by most anglers. Easily accessible lakes like Jackson, Jenny, Leigh, and Grassy are usually ice-free by mid- to late May and fish well from shore until the warmer days of July arrive. Deep-water trolling becomes popular until mid- to late September, when fish will again be found in shallower water. Lake trout—or mackinaw—that can reach 50 pounds, as well as cutthroat trout, thrive in these deep

lakes. Lewis and Shoshone lakes inside the South Entrance of Yellowstone are excellent lake and brown trout fisheries that anglers can access usually from the end of May (depending on weather/ice off) through the end of October. Once the Snake clears, the water is high and swift throughout the summer until mid-September. A steep gradient makes wading challenging, so the Snake is best fished by floating. The native cutthroat is exceptionally enthusiastic about dry flies and also chases streamers, nymphs, and spinning lures. Grasshopper fishing in August and September is a cherished part of the Snake’s seasonal anthology. Other favorite Jackson rivers more suited to wading are the Hoback, Gros Ventre, and Buffalo, as well as Flat, Cottonwood, and Pacific creeks. The Hoback provides a giant stonefly hatch in early July. After it clears in July, the Buffalo fishes well into late September. Flat Creek in the National Elk Refuge is a challenging fly-fishing-only stream that opens on August 1. An extensive section of this spring creek-like stream meanders through Jackson. Cody This East Yellowstone Entrance community named for the famous Wild West personality offers a variety of lake, 2 0 0 8 M O U N TA I N C O U N T R Y

Photos — top 2: Bob Woodall; middle: Wade McKoy

Be Prepared. Visitors focused on fishing should also be aware of storms, insects, and bears. High-elevation weather conditions change rapidly. The Lower Shoshone River right through Cody is a prized winter, spring and latesummer fly fishery. Dubois Nestled along the Photos, this page: Wyoming’s feisty native cutthroat trout keeps anglers Wind River in what is coming back for more. known as Fremont reservoir, and stream fishing. Cody anglers enjoy numer- County’s “banana belt,” the community of Dubois offers ous insect hatches emerging from the North Fork of the a variety of small- and large-stream and lake fishing beShoshone. This popular river creates the productive Buf- ginning right downtown. The Wind River is a year-round falo Bill Reservoir and offers rainbows, cutthroats, and trout fishery known for its browns that attain braggin’ browns. Lake trout are also abundant in Buffalo Bill. Be lengths. Small-stream enthusiasts will love the scrappy sure to note Wyoming G&F regs. for April 1-July 1 spawn- cutthroats in the Wiggins Fork not too far up the Horse ing closure on portions of river and reservoir. Creek Road from Dubois and then a short ride on County For both rugged beauty and excellent fishing, Wyoming’s Road 506. Also off the Horse Creek Road is Bog Lake, only federally proclaimed Wild & Scenic River, the Clark’s where both rainbow trout and arctic grayling reside. In Fork of the Yellowstone, is a short drive from Cody. the historic Union Pass area, anglers can pursue fine-spotLocated within easy hiking access to the unusual ted Snake River cutthroat in Lake of the Woods and also Beartooth Highway (U.S. 212) are numerous wilderness- experience Little Warm Springs Creek. Pelham Lake is fishing lakes. Get local fly shop recommendations to a usually ice free by mid-June and is west of Dubois off variety of high lakes, where grayling, rainbow, cutthroat, Warm Springs Road and is known for trophy-size Yellowand brook trout are available to fly and spin fishermen stone cutthroat. Contact the local tackle store for exact diafter late June. These lakes are excellent float-tube wa- rections to these interesting area fisheries. West Yellowstone ters. East and West Newton lakes, a few minutes’ drive outside Cody, are accessible trout opportunities, as are Surrounding the West Entrance to Yellowstone NaHogan and Luce reservoirs, where a variety of fishing tional Park, this area is the jumping-off point to many legtechniques may be employed. endary Western rivers, including the Madison, Henry’s

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Fork, Yellowstone, Firehole, Gallatin, and more. The eagerly anticipated and widely acclaimed salmon fly hatch on the Lower Madison begins in late June and peaks around the Fourth of July. The Firehole, America’s most unusual trout river, is fed by Yellowstone’s great geysers, fumaroles, and thermal springs. A similar resident rainbow and brown trout population also flourishes in the Madison in the park, where excellent mayfly and caddis hatches thrive until hopper fishing takes over in August. By mid-September, spawning fish from downstream in Hebgen Lake begin to migrate into the park and provide excitement until park fishing closes in early November. Hebgen Lake and its various arms offer some of the area’s finest dry-fly fishing beginning in mid-July. During the morning calm, trout locally termed “gulpers” cruise between surface blankets of tiny “Trico” mayflies, sipping constantly. A little later, the Tricos are joined by larger Callibaetis mayflies (speckled spinners) as the trout party hits high gear. The Yellowstone River inside the park (with a few tributary exceptions) traditionally opens on July 15 to a flourish of caddis insect action. This is a truly superb fishery for large Yellowstone-strain cutthroat that are willing risers for a variety of fly imitations. The river provides an exceptional range of catch-and-release fishing opportunities. Numerous insect types are present and enjoyable to watch as the daily trout menu constantly changes. Yellowstone Lake offers a fine opportunity to pursue

its native cutthroat not only from boats and float tubes but from the bank as well. Spin and fly fishermen enjoy success from many beaches and shores along adjacent park roads and parking areas. Pinedale This Old West ranching community lies 75 miles south of Jackson Hole. Situated adjacent to the Wind River Range and squarely along the historic Oregon Trail, this portion of Sublette County offers a variety of west-slope hiking and horse-packing trail entrances to the splendid Wind River Range and its endless trout-filled lake collection. The Green and the New Fork rivers begin here and flow south, where they ultimately unite near “Wyoming’s Icebox,” Big Piney, currently in the throes of an energyexploration boom. High prairie subtly camouflages exceptional fishing for browns and rainbows in both the Green and smaller New Fork. Flowing from the Green River Lakes, the upper Green features extensive public access areas and campgrounds. Upstream from the Warren Bridge on U.S. 189/191, under which the Green flows, are a dozen BLM access areas that offer fine wade fishing. Downstream, mostly private land surrounds the river but a few Game and Fish public access points dot the river. Float fishing is popular on both rivers beginning in early July when they clear. Check local shops for current access information. The Wyoming Game & Fish Dept. continues reintroduction of once-native cutthroat subspecies to many Pinedale, Daniel, and Big Piney tributary streams as well as the Green itself. A special angling treat is found in Meadow Lake below Pinedale in the Wind River foothills near Boulder. Arctic

grayling is an unusual trout-like fish that wears an extremely large dorsal fin highlighted with delicate red/purple spotting. Grayling willingly sip small flies and tiny spinning lures. Also vehicle-accessible are Soda and Willow lakes, which provide excellent float-tube and smallboat angling opportunities. Southeastern Idaho Giant stoneflies and other exceptional western aquatic insect hatches historically highlight fishing experiences on the Henry’s and South Fork of the Snake River. Fed by Big Spring and Henry’s Lake Outlet, the Henry’s Fork near Last Chance, Idaho, is renowned for its salmon fly hatch, which begins around Memorial Day. This river’s prolific insect hatches attract trout lovers from all over the world who enjoy challenging its selective rainbows.

The South Fork, which begins in Wyoming and then flows into Idaho above Palisades Reservoir, is the country’s largest native-cutthroat fishery. Big browns swim there too. Despite being such a sizable river, anglers frequently need delicate fishing skills to fool its abundant fish. Both rivers have local outfitters and fly shops or may be accessed by Jackson Hole outfitters. Paul Bruun has edited several newspapers during his career, writes the weekly “Outdoors” column in the Jackson Hole News & Guide, and contributes to outdoor magazines. He operates his own fly-fishing float-trip service, founded the South Fork Skiff drift boat company, and served 12 years on the Jackson Town Council during his 35 years in Jackson.

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Mountain Climbing

by Jeff Burke

Photos: Jimmy Chin

A lifetime apprenticeship “on the sharp end”

Conrad Anker scales the Grand Teton (left) and (above) sorts through the rack: “the sling of climbing nuts, cams, and runners.”

ive me the rack,” I said, putting my hand out to lead my first pitch of Teton granite. My friend un-shouldered the sling of climbing nuts, cams, and runners, and passed it to me with a knowing grin. Until that moment I had never been “on the sharp end,” meaning I had not yet led a pitch of technical rock climbing. During my first few years in the sport I had only followed friends up routes, never taking the lead, all the while learning how to place protection for the day when I’d get to go first. With nervous eyes and sugar-buzzed energy I made my way up that inaugural 5.6—exposed ledges, smooth granite, placing more protection than I would today— fueled by an emotional cocktail consisting of one part commitment and two parts fear, with a splash of revenge directed at an old girlfriend. Everyone gets into climbing for different reasons. I got into it because climbing gave me the tools to venture into better places to ski. The more I learned about mountaineering, the farther and higher I could go with my skis. Soon I became anxious to just get into the mountains, with or without skis. Like any skill set, the more proficient I became at it, the more rewarding it was. The day I led that first 5.6, my eyes opened to the lifetime possibilities of exploring steep-walled mountains. Jackson Hole has its share of mountaineering history. The Teton Range has long been a bastion of American alpinism, complete with a controversy of who actually climbed the Grand Teton first, the range’s crown jewel. Debate surrounds Nathaniel Langford and James Stevenson’s 1872 alleged success of the climb. With no empirical evidence proving either man stood on the summit—only their word—credit goes to William O. Owen, who put tow w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

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Photos— top: Greg Von Doersten; middle: Jimmy Chin; right: courtesy of Enclosure Climbing

Brady Johnston traverses from Gunsight Notch to the Grand Stand on the North Ridge of the Grand Teton with Mount Owen in the background.

gether a climbing party and summited the peak in 1898, taking photographs and documenting their ascent. Since then countless men and women have come to the valley and made their mark exploring the Tetons. Like any outdoor discipline, climbing is a craft with what many consider a lifetime apprenticeship. Teton

and Paul Petzoldt. Both men pioneered routes up the Grand Teton, notably the Exum and Petzoldt ridges, respectively, which are both considered classic, moderately difficult routes, and are climbed frequently. In the ‘30s, the two young men began taking people into the mountains for a fee. And for the last 75 years, two climbing schools— Jackson Hole Mountain Guides and Exum Mountain Guides— have led thousands of people into the alpine Teton terrain. If you’re new to climbing or don’t have the time to learn on your own, going with a guide is a valuable resource. They have intimate knowledge of the area, technical savvy, and venerable mountain experience to take you safely into the mountains. “Guides make your trip safer and more seamless,” says Phil Powers, one of the owners of Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. “We all have limited time. A Conrad Anker contemplates his next move on the Grand Teton. guide, with his or her local climbing, specifically, is about longer days in the knowledge and advanced skill, can make sure that time is mountains, route-finding, scrambling, technical as pleasurable and productive as possible,” Phil continues. pitches, exposure, rappelling, slogging—moun- “We believe in the learning and the experience as much as taineering in its absolute sense. Many peaks, including the goal of a summit or a climb. Our guides try to share the Grand Teton, present several challenges, mentally their comprehensive understanding of the mountain and physically, for climbers who choose to scale their world, from natural history and weather through technique faces, buttresses, and ridgelines. and movement skills with each of our guests.” Two of the range’s central figures were Glenn Exum Senior Exum guide Nat Patridge agrees.“Guides know

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the program,” Nat says. “We can lead people safely and efficiently in the mountains. We know the local biology and mountain history. It all helps to enhance the quality of the client’s overall experience.” Learning how to climb is becoming easier by the day. With the proliferation of indoor rock gymnasiums, beginners and pros have a place to go year-round. “Gyms

Teton climbing, specifically, is about longer days in the mountains, route-finding, scrambling, technical pitches, exposure, rappelling, slogging— mountaineering in its absolute sense. allow you to train regardless of weather,” says Enclosure employee Shawn Overstreet, “where you can push your limits with minimal consequences. And it’s really safe for beginner climbers.” The Enclosure indoor gym has over 12,000 sq. feet of textured wall climbing with 200 routes, 3,500 sq. feet of bouldering (unroped climbing), a yoga studio and a fitness area. “There’s access to routes of all types and difficulties in a relatively small space,” adds Overstreet. There is more to climbing in Jackson Hole than the

On the Rise — Indoor Climbing Has Its Own Game

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Gear Petzl DMM Black Diamond Metolius

Clothing Mountain Hardwear Löle Prana Arc'teryc Patagonia Carve Design The North Face

CELEBRATING OUR 40TH ANNIVERSARY TRANSCENDING TIME... REACHING NEW HEIGHTS...

Photo courtesy of Angus M. Thuermer Jr.

Grand and surrounding peaks. Rodeo Wall and The Shield are two crags in the valley that offer moderate, single-pitch sport climbing. Drive south of town and spend an afternoon clipping bolts and top-roping a variety of 5.8-to5.11-rated climbs. If you’ve got some climbing chops, drive 20 minutes north to Blacktail Butte, where steep, sharp limestone will get your attention right off the ground. Make no mistake: climbing can be dangerous, and you can get seriously injured or killed. Knowing the rules can be the difference between a fabulous day in the mountains or a fatal one. “If you don’t know shit,” says an older, retired guide who shall remain nameless, “get a guide.” On my premier lead, I could see the anchor station at the top of the pitch from below. I was near it and had just placed a nut below the crux of the pitch, a small but exposed bulge just below the anchor. There was no place to put any more protection until I could reach the anchor. Feeling the effects of my two-parts fear cocktail, I weighted my right foot on a dished-out groove and stood, reaching my left hand beyond my line of sight, pawing for a hold, “Oh, m-m-man…” I shuttered, sliding my fingers across the rock. Nothing. My left leg began to do “the sewing machine,” quivering rapidly up and down. I slid the other hand up, my stomach pressing the wall. Just out of sight, my fingers found a huge pocket—it might as well have been the rung of a ladder. “Thank Gawd!,” I said, pulling through the bulge to the anchor. Toiling in the hills is as silly as any other enthusiasm; it’s but one way we engage the natural world while simultaneously experiencing the wilderness within ourselves. Climb well above your last piece of protection and you’ll know what I mean. Jeff Burke is a freelance writer living in Jackson.

170 North Cache Jackson 733-3595

Climber: Evan Simms Photo: McKoy

tic holds for grabbing, have now blossomed into three-dimensional, multi-storied pieces of interactive art. “Rock gyms are becoming more state-of-the-art,” says Overstreet. “There’s more appeal to the general public and families, not just the hardcore.” There are some limitations, however. “It’s hard to mimic some techniques of outdoor climbing,” says Overstreet. “Slab climbing, for instance.” Still, the indoor attracColor-coded holds indicate climbing routes of varying difficulty. tion has led to nationwide indoor Indoor climbing might sound like an oxymoron. climbing and bouldering competitions, with comIt’s not. And with a growing population of indoor en- petitors speeding up routes, pushing their physical thusiasts, it’s becoming a sport unto itself. limits, all the while staying fit. Wyoming has its own Mimicking the topography of rock formations, “307 Series” bouldering contests (the name comes indoor climbing routes allow novices and experts from the statewide area code 307), which move across alike to simulate the movements and climbing expe- the state, town to town, until the finals at Jackson’s rience in a relatively safe and controlled environ- Enclosure Climbing. ment. “There’s access to routes of all types,” says Unlike traditional athletic clubs, rock gyms provide Enclosure employee Shawn Overstreet, “without another dimension to merely exercising on machines being dependent on weather.” and lifting weights.“The basic movements of climbing Rock gyms started as a means for hardcore are appealing to people,” says Overstreet. “It’s fun for climbers to remain strong when they couldn’t get those who don’t have the ability to get outdoor climboutside. Over the last decade, what were once simple, ing often. And there’s also a supportive social scene surtextured wood panels studded with removable plas- rounding it, too.” — Jeff Burke

Offering guided climbs and rock climbing instruction in the Tetons since 1968. 165 North Glenwood Street, Jackson, Wyoming 83001 800.239.7642 / 307.733.4979 www.jhmg.com Jackson Hole Mountain Guides is an authorized concessioner of Grand Teton National Park and is permitted by the USDA Forest Service to operate on the Bridger-Teton, Shoshone and Custer National Forests. 2 0 0 8 M O U N TA I N C O U N T R Y

Mountain Skateboarding A look inside Jackson’s growing skateboard community

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the Jackson skater’s prime time to hit the pavement, from dawn till the late-night twilight. Obviously, skating Jackson’s streets isn’t smooth sailing. It’s more like rolling across marbles. A bigger hurdle

Although there exist many hurdles to overcome for valley skateboarders, the climate might be the toughest and most stubborn to negotiate. than weather, though, might be town and county restrictions prohibiting riding some area roads. That’s just more unwelcoming road-rash to some skaters’ ears. For example, skateboarding is prohibited around the Jackson Town Square, and the popular longboarding pitches of Teton Pass and Ski Hill Road on the west side of the Teton Range are off limits, too. There are some hopeful signs, though. “[Grand] Targhee has been working with us on skating Ski Hill Road,” says local and Igneous Skis owner Mike Parris, 37, who’s been skating since the ‘70s, nine of those years in

Jackson. “I remember talking with a Teton County officer and he said to me, ‘Better here than on the pass.’” Since 1999, Igneous Skis has been constructing longboards out of wood cores and two layers of fiberglass laminates that make the boards more flexible. Flexible boards are key for carving turns at high speeds down steep grades, and differ from the standard skateboards, which are more rigid and geared toward flatter, allaround skating. Undoubtedly, though, the most hopeful sign is the creation of the town skate park. The official opening of the first skate park in Jackson was in 2002. The park was simple, with a playful bowl and some vert ramps and conveniently located adjacent to the cow-pasture ball fields near the high school and community bike path. For most skaters, mainly the kids, it was a full-blown miracle. Granted, it was small and grassroots, but it gave the skateboarding population a common place to ride. “It’s a great addition. The high school kids are there everyday—you can almost count on it,” says Jacksonite Jon Burke, 31, a skater for seven years. “Most of my friends don’t want to get hurt, but the kids rip it up and I’ve seen a few generations come through that are still skating after college.” But it hasn’t been enough. As the population of Jackson began to swell, so did the valley’s skate parks and

Photos— left: Andrew McGarry; right: Jonathan Selkowitz

By Keith I. Cozzens hen it comes to skateboarding, Jackson is certainly behind the curve, compared to other parts of the world. But then again, this place was founded on cowboy machismo and powder skiing. Nope, not going to find a stack of sunny days with palm tree-lined sidewalks and drained swimming pools here. What you will find, though, is a growing band of fearless, dedicated, and ageless valley skateboarders who are helping make a name for the sport. And they’re struggling to do it in a place that is gasping for additional affordable housing in a region famous for deep-pocket real estate. “Skateboarding is the thing I like to do most in the summer because I’m always learning new tricks—last year I learned to Ollie,” says precocious thrash-master Owen Edward Doyle, 8, who’s been riding in Jackson for three years. “I’m probably going to be skateboarding till I’m 30, I think.” At only eight-years-old, Doyle already is hooked on and committed to skateboarding. Although there exist many hurdles to overcome for valley skateboarders, the climate might be the toughest and most stubborn to negotiate. With Mother Nature spewing various forms of precipitation for almost half the year, riding Jackson’s streets can be challenging, especially when they’re littered with puddles, gravel pieces left over from winter’s thaw, or King Kong-size potholes. The small summer-weather window from June through October is

overall enthusiasm for the sport. First, Peter Marsiglio opened the Colosseum indoor skate park in 2004, but it didn’t last long. The interest was there, the funds weren’t. After three solid years of offering skaters of all ages a buffed-out facility to hone their skills, the building’s owner(s) sold and cashed in on the property. “We pretty much got kicked out. The rent was high and Pete was barely pulling through,” says Burke, who frequented the Colosseum. “They just made it hard on us. They had no clue what it was doing for the skateboarders at that point—even the parents were starting to pick up on it.” With the unfortunate fall of the Colosseum, however, came the rise of Sk8 Inc. Spearheaded by BoardRoom owner Marc Loebe, the organization (loosely formed in the late ‘90s) had a single mission: raise enough funds to expand the existing outdoor skate park. Working with Cheryl Bebee and Brody Dowell, Sk8 Inc. hosted fundraisers, ushered live music into town, and held demos featuring professional skateboarders to promote awareness. Thanks to Old Bill’s and other donations, the group initially raised $110,000, an amount matched by Teton County/Jackson Parks and Rec., which currently maintains the skate park. “Ultimately, the skate park gave people a place to go and gave us some legitimacy in the valley and community,” says Loebe, who’s owned his home- Longboarding (left) and skate park terrain (above) grown skate and snowboard shop The BoardRoom helping nurture Jackson Hole’s skating devotees. since 1995, and which harbors a half-pipe in its parking lot. “It’s never going to be a school sport, but that’s “Ultimately, the skate park what draws a lot of kids to it: the freedom.” gave people a place to go and In the second phase of their fundraising pursuit, Sk8 Inc. received an anonymous donation for $150,000, gave us some legitimacy in the adding some much-needed grease to the wheels. This time, though, no match from Parks and Rec. Moving on valley and community.” with their master plan, Sk8 Inc. expanded the skate park in the fall of 2006 by building rails, a funbox, more vert ished expanding the park, we had $10,000 left over. So far, walls, several hips, flatbanks, and spines. The renovated that’s gotten us one drinking fountain.” park is now roughly 3,400-square-feet. So that leaves valley skaters with basically two op“It was a bit of a struggle to get the funds we needed, tions: one skate park or the street. What’s the future of but we made it happen,” says Loebe. “When we were fin- skateboarding in Jackson? Not an easy question to answer,

but things aren’t stagnant. With the close of the Colosseum came the conundrum of what to do with all the skate structures. Well, next time you’re walking through the east side of town, keep your eyes and ears open for the smack and grind of decks hitting a half-pipe inside an undisclosed skater-friendly home. That’s one bright spot. The skate park in Victor, Idaho, is another bright spot and is gaining more popularity, with lots of local Jackson skaters displaying their skills at the Teton Valley hangout. “Just seeing how much skateboarding is used as a means of transportation in town has grown,” says Parris.“Any summer day you can see a girl in a sundress with her dog cruising down Snow King Ave.” Another promising option is local skater Casey Cimbura’s creation, the PortaCope. Bummed by the lack of skate-able features present in the valley, Cimbura has designed a way to skate anything you want without leaving a mark. Looking to relieve the boredom a skater in Jackson can feel, Cimbura’s ingenious technology is basically a piece of hard plastic (coping) cut at a 90-degree angle. The plastic pieces come in different sizes and connect using a sturdy camming system. They adhere to any structure, feature, or rail, using sticky, non-marking tape and screws, and the set-up/breakdown time is minimal. Its best feature, besides being portable? It doesn’t are harm the surface or your board. Brilliant! “I’ve been using it on any structures I can find around town,” says Cimbura, 26, who’s been skating for 11 years. “I’ve been using the PortaCope to show that it’s not ruining the structure and that it opens the door to more skating opportunities.” But the ultimate future of skateboarding in the valley is the kids. “I ask for skate gear every birthday and Christmas,” says young Doyle. “Once the snow melts from the streets, I like to skateboard to school at Wilson Elementary.” During his early teens, valley resident and freelance writer Keith I. Cozzens used to skateboard with a boom box and cutoff sleeves. Now, he truly misses those days.

1255d gregory lane jackson, wyoming 307/734.8788 www.igneousskis.com w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

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Jackson &Cody

Snaky Bulls & Snorting Broncs Story by Joy Ufford Photos by Bob Woodall

ust puffs underfoot as cowgirls and cowboys, little to large, expectant crowds, and rodeo clowns shuffle their boots and silently clutch hats to chests. The setting sun sends shafts of warm light through the evening air and bathes everyone—rider, roper, racer— in a golden glow and sharpens the silhouettes of waiting horses and swaggering bulls. It is the most magical moment of the night, when a microphone crackles to life and the inspiring lyrics of our national anthem lift hearts around the arena as many sing along with the words that stir them so deeply every time—“the land of the free and the home of the brave…” Rodeo is so thoroughly American now (despite roots in vaquero and ranching traditions of old California and Mexico) that it’s mandatory to see the star-spangled banner grasped in a rodeo queen’s hand as she tears around the arena on her horse at full gallop, both showing off for appreciative crowds. That’s what rodeo is all about, in a way—showing off. From snaky bulls to snorting broncs, born to buck and born to run; from a glittering rhinestone-studded belt here to some turquoise fringed leather there. It’s about showing off in a good way, because there’s nothing wrong with living to kick higher, run faster, ride longer, rope quicker. For bull and bronc riders it’s about getting better scores, keeping a tighter handle on their ride. For the bulls and broncs, it’s about putting on a show trying to launch cowboys into outer space. When the sparkling gals gallop around on their stretched-out horses, burning turns around three barrels set in sand, it’s about speed and style. For the more taciturn ropers, it’s the quick elegance of a rope sailing through the air to catch a steer or calf in a heartbeat or two. Man, woman, or animal, it’s a great way to be alive. There’s nothing like it. Rodeo hasn’t changed much over the years except to get better. More money, better horses, meaner bulls, faster times… Chris LeDoux and Garth Brooks have taught us through their countrywestern music about “eight-second rides” and “the roar of a Sunday crowd,” and rodeo still has the ability to thrill us. And one thing that never changes about rodeo is people’s heartfelt desires to be good, even great, at something they love. The same can be said of their horses, whether buckin’ broncs or muscled mounts; that good feeling of doing a job well holds as true for the animals as it does for the men and women who ride them and the rodeo clowns who risk life and limb to entertain the crowd. There’s pride at stake, whether you’re moving on two legs or four. It’s an excitement and adrenaline rush that keeps every creature in that arena on its best—which in many cases is its

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A high-flying cowboy spurs his bronc in his quest for that eight-second ride to rodeo fame.

Not even out of the gate, a saddle-bronc rider struggles to hang on to his draw.

worst—behavior. It’s no surprise that people who love to rodeo consider it an addiction.

JH Rodeo For 24 years, the Moses family (Russ, Judy, and Gene, plus assorted relatives) has hosted Jackson’s summer twiceweekly rodeo and made the Teton County arena a hot destination with a hometown atmosphere for up-and-coming rough stock riders, barrel racers and ropers, and for the families, friends, and visitors who crowd the bleachers. “It’s an addiction,” said Judy Moses, adding that they don’t get rich at producing rodeos.“Oh, my gosh, no.” Jackson’s Sadie Wheeldon has barrel raced since she was four, and considers the JH Rodeo a second home after all the years she’s raced and more recently, team-roped there and at other rodeos, all while helping her family run the Mill Iron Ranch south of Jackson. “The JH Rodeo is a great rodeo,” she said.“We grew there and learned a lot there. I’ll never quit JH Rodeo. All of us here are very lucky to have had it growing up; it gives you that competitive edge.” “It’s a thrill,” she said of barrel racing and team roping. “I love them both. It’s a speed thing, an adrenaline thing. Both are very addictive.” Her goal is to make a name for herself with a handsome horse she brought back from Colorado last year, a 9-year-old

The calm before the storm for bull and rider.

Firewater Flick gelding—“a pretty big name” in the world of fast horses—and he might be the one to take her to the Dodge Circuit Finals in Pocatello this year. “He’s got long, lean muscles and his breeding tells a lot,” Wheeldon said.“He can run.” After that her sights will be set on the National Finals Rodeo in Las Vegas, not an unusual dream for someone whose entire family has rodeo’d. “It’s been in the family for so long.” Saddle bronc rider Bryon Lozier from Daniel, Wyoming, about 70 miles south, got caught up in JH Rodeo’s challenge at 14, with the same dream. For years he’s ridden at the JH Rodeo twice a week. “It’s just an adrenaline rush,” Lozier said of climbing on a bronc in the chute.“We went a lot of places, won some money… After awhile you kind of figure out if you’re going that way (to the NFR) or not… You have a rough ride and don’t know if you want to get back on or not. Then you get on a good one and want to do it all over w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Roping is a team effort for a rider and his mount.

“He’s got long, lean muscles, and his breeding tells a lot,” Wheeldon said. “He can run.” again. If the horse kicks a lot, bucking and jumping and you’re spurring in time with him, it’s a good ride.” Russ, Judy, and son Gene travel to Texarkana, Arkansas, to buy young bulls and Miles City, Montana, for potential broncs. They’ll “audition” new stock and decide who stays. Interestingly, there are breeding programs for bucking stock—horses and bulls that have “buck” bred into them. “They have to want to do it,” said Judy of the young stock. “It’s something that’s a mind-set for them. They have to prove themselves until we’re satisfied they are going to be crowd-pleasers, consistently.” It’s a win-win situation; their stock gets the finest feed and hay plus five to six days off a week. JH Rodeo has something for everyone: the “calf scramble” pits four- to 12-year-olds against each other to catch calves tagged with ribbons for prizes; women get to check out Wrangler-clad cowboys and guys check out, well, Wrangler-clad cowgirls. The events are barrel racing, calf roping, bull riding, saddle-bronc riding and bronc riding, with a round of bull riding saved for last. JH Rodeo starts Saturday, May 24, at 8 p.m. during Old West Days, at the Teton County Fairgrounds. Wednesday rodeos start June 4, and both nights offer family fun through Labor Day weekend. Special rodeos are held during July Fourth and the Teton County Fair, which also has a Little Buckaroo rodeo. On July 28, JH Rodeo will present a special televised bull-riding challenge with big-name riders. JH Rodeo is the most affordable entertainment around. Reserved seating in the covered grandstand is $15; general admission is $12 for adults, $8 for kids, and $40 for two parents and kids. To reserve tickets, call (307) 733-2187 or 733-2805.

Cody Nite Rodeo Cody is called the “Rodeo Capital of the World,” and that isn’t stretching things, with talented cowboys and girls coming from Peru, Australia, Canada and even Japan to test their skills in Stampede Park and vie for big cash and big buckles. And to have an exciting show every night, the continued on page 45 rough stock has to buck.

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R O D E O In Jackson Hole Wednesdays & Saturdays at 8:00pm JH Rodeo Grounds • Snow King Ave.

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CALF SCRAMBLE All kids ages 4-12

FAMILY DISCOUNTS $40.00

4th of July Rodeo at 8:00pm www.jhrodeo.com

Ticket Office 733-2805

For advance tickets and information. 2 0 0 8 M O U N TA I N C O U N T R Y

Horseback Riders Icons of the West

Wyoming’s Absarokas Range offers some of the most remote and inspiring roadless horseback riding among the lower 48 states.

here is west, and there is The West. Not a direction, but a place steeped in history and full of icons and symbols. And the one icon epitomizing the West is the cowboy astride his horse, riding into the sunset. If you’re in search of that connection with the West, why not saddle up and go for a ride? Although loping off into the horizon may not be on your agenda, finding a horse to mount up and ride couldn’t be easier. No matter where one travels, trail rides are available. And there are many ways to indulge oneself. The simplest is a two-hour ride. If that leaves you hankering for more, consider half-day or full-day rides. For the ultimate Western experience, though, sign on for a multi-day pack trip or a full week at a dude ranch. Never been on a horse? “Not a problem,” said Marilyn Dahle of Yellowstone Outfitters and Teton Village Trail Rides.“Seventy-five percent of our riders have never been on a horse; it’s fun to take inexperienced people and see the big smiles on their faces and the satisfaction when they learn to ride.” Yellowstone Outfitters leads riders into the Teton Wilderness, where spectacular views of the Tetons unfold around every bend. Wilderness areas are only accessible on foot or horseback. So why ride a horse? “The thrill of just being on the back of a horse,” said Dahle “is part of the Western adventure that people are after.” “Agreed,” noted Cameron Garnick, of the Triangle C Dude Ranch (whose untimely passing last fall touched the lives of many in the region). But that’s not all.“You can see much more,” he pointed out, “because you are not having to watch the trail. You can look around at the 360-degree view, enjoy the smell of the sage, the sounds of the forest, listen to streams, and drink in the landscape—and physical limitations can be overcome.” Traveling at 4-5 miles an hour, horses can cover lots of territory, and in a short time riders can be deep into the mountains. Plus,“you are doing it the way it was done by Indians, mountain men,

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Story and photos by Bob Woodall and cowboys,” said Garnick. Now that you’re hankering to hit the trail, what’s next? Well, dress the part. You don’t need to go out and dude yourself up in full cowboy regalia, but a few items will make the ride more enjoyable. Cowboy boots are best, but any closed-toed shoes are fine. Sandals, however, are not recommended. Long pants and a hat are advisable, and because the weather can change rapidly here in the real West, bring a raincoat. Also on the short list are insect repellant, sunscreen, sunglasses, water bottle, camera, and binoculars. Next, decide how much time you really have for spending in the saddle. Like most outfitters, Yellowstone

Now, if a couple days in the saddle have not reined in your desire for an Old West vacation, consider a stay at a dude ranch, the ultimate Western experience. Outfitters and Teton Village Trail Rides offer two-hour, half-day, and full-day trips. If that’s not enough, they also provide three- and six-day pack trips, as well as Orvis-endorsed fishing trips to the Yellowstone River. And if you want the Western adventure without spending the whole time on a horse, check out the overnight wagon train trips. Spend half of the trip on the wagon and the rest on horseback. Campfire cookouts come complete with a singing cowboy serenading campers by a fire under the star-filled sky. If a couple days in the saddle have not reined in your desire for an Old West vacation, consider a stay at a dude ranch, the ultimate Western experience. In the 1880s the term “dude” was applied to dressed-up city slickers, especially to Easterners vacationing in the West and who af-

The chance to rest, dine, and for some, to angle.

fected elaborate “Wild West” getups as paying visitors at a “dude ranch.” While some places call themselves “guest” ranches nowadays, seek out ones that have not dropped the “dude” from their name: those will be the ranches offering the most authentic experience. A proper dude ranch regales its guests with the romance of the West for a full week. Dudes are pampered in a rustic setting with a full plate of activities, including daily trail rides, cookouts, campfires, Western sing-alongs, and rodeos. Ranches tailor their weeks for singles, couples, families, and groups. You’re smack dab in the middle of The West, so take advantage of it! Whether it’s for two hours or a whole week. Saddle up—and happy trails to you!

Stock contractor Maury Tate continued from page 43 said that’s what his horses and bulls want to do. He brings 120-130 horses and 120-150 bulls, which he was raising before getting the Cody Nite Rodeo contract three years ago. “They’re all born to buck,” he said.“It’s what they’re bred to do. It’s what their great-granddaddies and great-grandmas were bred to do. A lot of people think they’re wild, but they’re not. They just don’t get handled much as colts. They’re bred to buck and they love to buck.” He raises some bucking colts himself and also buys from certain breeders. “It’s a whole industry within itself,” he said. “Some people just raise bucking colts.” Tate knows what he’s looking for.“To me the perfect scenario is when the horse looks really good, bucks really hard and makes a really good ride. The cowboy is not competing against the horse; the cowboy is competing with the horse. “You want him to jump out there and kick—the higher and harder the better.” Bucking bulls are an industry of their own as well, with registration programs, futurities, and classics. A cow with good bucking blood can bring $25,000, even $50,000. “If your cow’s bred the right way, her calves can bring $2,000 a round at six months old,” Tate explained. From Oklahoma, Tate and family own “Mo” Betta Clothing Co., which came about after he asked his mother to design some wild Western shirts when he started rodeoing. He sold them off his back, literally, at rodeos where he first rode bulls and then roped calves. Garth Brooks is a devoted customer and wears “Mo” Betta shirts at his concerts. Tate and his family work the Cody Nite Rodeo (almost 80 years old) from June 1-Aug. 31 at 8 p.m., with the Professional Rodeo Cowboy Association-sanctioned Cody Stampede Rodeo (since 1937) July 1-4. Cody Nite Rodeo finals will take place Aug. 31- Sept. 2 and their purse is nothing to sneeze at, more than $90,000 last year. Nightly events include bareback and saddle broncs, calf and team roping, steer wrestling, break-away roping, barrel racing and bull riding, as well as a calf scramble for the kids. Kids are also treated to trick-roping demonstrations, meeting bullfighters, getting their face painted by rodeo clowns and more. All seating is covered, with great views of the arena. Cody Nite Rodeo tickets are $16 for adults, $8 for kids 7-12. Cody Stampede tickets are $18. All can be reserved by calling 1.800.207.0744 or stopping by Stampede Park, on the west side of Cody. Let’s go rodeo! Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant, where she is a ranch hand and a writer for Pinedale’s Sublette Examiner.

2008 Rodeo Schedules Cody, Wyoming Cody Nite Rodeo–June, July, August, nightly at 8:00 p.m. Cody Stampede–July 1, 2, 3 & 4 Dodge Xtreme Bulls Tour–July 5

Jackson, Wyoming JH Rodeo–Memorial Day through Labor Day, every Wednesday & Saturday at 8 p.m.

Dubois, Wyoming Every Friday June 20–August 22 at 8 p.m.

Pinedale, Wyoming During the Green River Rendezvous weekend, Thursday – Saturday, July 10-13 at 7 p.m.

Triangle C Ranch Ranch Rodeo–Friday evenings at 7:30 p.m. (20 miles west of Dubois or 70 miles NE of Jackson, on US Hwy 26)

West Yellowstone, Montana Every Thursday-Saturday from June 5-Aug 30 at 8 p.m.

Gardiner, Montana NRA Rodeo–June 13 & 14 at 8p.m.

Big Timber, Montana June 27 at 7 p.m. & June 28 at 6 p.m.

Wilsall, Montana June 7 at 6:30 p.m. & June 8 at 2 p.m. (30 miles north of Livingston, Montana, on US Hwy 89)

Red Lodge, Montana Home of Champions Rodeo, July 2, 3 at 6 p.m. & July 4 at 3 p.m.

Livingston, Montana Livingston Roundup–July 2, 3, & 4 at 8 p.m.

Big Piney, Wyoming July 3 at 6 p.m., July 4 at 1:30p.m.

Meeteetse, Wyoming Labor Day, September 1, at 1 p.m.

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The Shootout celebrates its 52nd anniversary this summer, making it the longest-running Western shootout in the country.

by Cal Glover

So let’s just start there. Take a cool drink from the fountain in the center of the Square and gaze up at the Bud Boller bronze of the cowboy on the buckin’ bronc. Look familiar? That same rendition’s on our Wyoming license plates as well as the tails’ side of the Wyoming quarter. The steed is a famous rodeo horse named Steamboat. Notice the cowboy “fanning” with his hat. They won’t let cowboys do that anymore, as it might induce a bucking bronc to turn in a desired direction. Say, towards a judge who’s actually eyeballing the rider instead of cowgirls. The tall trees above you are cottonwoods, Wyoming’s state tree. But look around at the four antler arches on each corner. Nah, we didn’t club “those poor deer” to death. The elk antlers are shed every year, and many were fed into the

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arches from 1953-1969. Every year, on the Saturday before Memorial Day, the east side of the Square is the site of our annual elk antler auction. Last year 5,379 pounds went for an average of $11.76 a pound. Elk antler artists will take ‘em back home and make chandeliers and furniture out of those “horns,” or carve ‘em into belt buckles, bolo ties. Last year the Rotary Club, working with the town of Jackson, replaced the arch across from the Cowboy Bar and plans to build a new arch every other year. (Wanna guess how many antlers it took to build that new arch? Give it a shot—I’ll put the answer at the end.) Throughout the summer, six evenings a week, there’s an old-fashioned Western shootout on the Square’s southeast corner. In

Photos — top: Bob Woodall; bottom: courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

h, just go get lost, will ya? Yeah, pardner, come with me. Let’s get lost for a while together, go back a few years. To a Jackson’s Hole of years gone by. In fact, let’s go all the way back to 1914, the year Jackson Hole became a town. Four locals each deeded a piece of land and thereby created what’s been called “The Square” ever since.

The town of Jackson and its night sky sparkle on July 4.

fact, this is the 52nd anniversary year for this, the longestrunning Western shootout in the country. It starts at 6:15 p.m., but get there early and find a good place to stand. We hear they use blanks, although the local cemetery is in a pretty spot in case they foul up. From the northeast corner stroll down Deloney Street a hundred yards. Look at that old red barn, the door on the east side. Hollywood took that door away in 1980, hinged a fake one on so Clint Eastwood and Will Smith (not that Will Smith) could come crashing out in the big fight scene of Any Which Way You Can. (Okay, watch closely—they’re stunt doubles.) Some 30 feature films have been shot here in Jackson Hole. So just what is Jackson Hole? William Sublette, of mountain-man fame, named this 40-mile-long by 8-to15-mile-wide valley after his partner, Davey Jackson, while trappin’ beaver, or “soft gold,” in these parts back in the early 1800s. A quick trip back to the present. That big building about a couple hundred yards to the north? That’s our rec. center. Visitors from out of town can use it, too. It sports athletic courts, a lap pool, kids’ pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, steam room, and the coolest three-story water slide for kids of all ages. Back to the Square with ya. Wander through some of our art galleries, view glimpses of our Western heritage captured in paintings, sculptures, and photos. Now, it’s free to look, but you might notice they do not give these things away.

There’s an old-fashion Western shootout on the Square’s southeast corner. We hear they use blanks, although the local cemetery is in a pretty spot in case they foul up. Have some fun. Find a local, ask,“Can you direct me to George Washington Memorial Park?” Chances are you’ll get a blank stare. Most locals don’t know it, but that is the Square. Stand across from the Cowboy Bar. Look at the plaque bearing John Colter’s name. You’ve probably come to our valley because you like the great outdoors. Do you like it enough to do what John Colter did? He left the Lewis and Clark Expedition to be the first white man to venture into our valley. Starting from the Missouri River, Private Colter traveled 500 miles, by himself, in the late fall of 1807. He was the first white man to see the geysers of Yellowstone. Hard to say how he felt about them, since the earliest map depicts Yellowstone as “Colter’s Hell.” Some visitors will ask us what we do durin’ our long winters? Well, we have skiing and snowboarding, snowmobiling and dogsledding, but ya’ll might be interested in knowing that we set a record in January of 1979, when it got to 63 degrees. Ah, shoot, I done forgot to add that little “–” thingy before the number. That makes it, um, 95 degrees…below freezing! w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Oh, all right, just one from our ol’ pal Jeff Foxworthy: “If you go outside in the winter, drill a two-foot hole in the ice, drop a sharp metal hook down that hole and stand there all day in sub-freezing temperatures waiting for food to swim by and bite that sharp metal hook…you might live in Wyoming!” If you’re 21 or older, saunter on into the Cowboy Bar, which has been a landmark in our town since 1936. No bar stools. That’s right, ya sit on saddles. Now in the old days, up until the late Fifties, these watering holes were also called “The Joints.” There was gambling. According to dude rancher Jack Huyler, in his book And That’s the Way It Was In Jackson’s Hole, “Whenever there was a civic project in need of funds, we’d go to the ‘Joints’ for help;

and we’d get it. That changed when riff-raff from Vegas moved in. Jackson was written up in Fortune magazine as ‘the second toughest town in the United States after Butte, Montana.’” Walk down the hallway leading to the Cowboy Steakhouse beneath the bar. Black-and-white photos will take you back to years gone by. And check out those spurs. In the early years of dude ranching, the rodeos were the big social events of the summer, occurring on July Fourth, the first three days of August, and Labor Day Weekend. These days they take place Wednesday and Saturday nights throughout summer. The funniest thing you’ve seen in a long while will be the kids chasing the calf or the goat, grabbing for the elusive ribbon on its tail. The

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The Town Square stagecoach (left) and The Ballad of Cat Ballou at the Jackson Hole Playhouse (above) can transport the entire family into worlds of adventure and entertainment.

rodeo hasn’t changed much since dude ranching picked up in the Twenties and Thirties. Let’s stay lost for a bit longer, whaddya say? Let’s mosey north. Those old brown buildings are original. Davies Reid was Jackson Drug for many a year, featured homemade ice cream. Walk past it, toward the Teton Theater, opened in 1941. Just think back and imagine a Saturday summer day in 1953, how the town folk looked as they lined up to see the famous Western, Shane, also filmed in our valley. That’s the Anvil Motel across the street, on the corner. Let’s say that in 1917 you drove your buckboard wagon from your ranch to town to get supplies. The Anvil was where Pop Deloney’s General

Store stood. Your supplies came to more than you had, and Pop wasn’t around. Why, you’d just leave a note and settle up next time you came to town. That’s the way it was done. (Now don’t do what Bill Webb, owner of Green River Outfitters, swears is a true story. These two gals were on the phone with Bill, asking what they should bring. Ol’ Bill said, “Nuthin’ really...just your staples.” They showed up with, you got it, a box of staples!) Hey, it’s kinda fun hanging lost back here in the old days of Jackson’s Hole. Let’s stay just a bit more. Turn around and head back south, toward Snow King. That ski area opened in 1939. In late July we’ll

A hike up Snow King’s fields of flowers (above) or a wild ride down its Alpine Slide (right) will make anyone’s day.

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Nature, Jackson’s only real competition, is just minutes from downtown. The summit of Snow King Mountain, dazzlingly cloaked in wildflowers, boasts one of the valley’s most breathtaking views of the Teton Range. And it’s just six blocks south of the town square. The National Elk Refuge can be seen to the northeast and the Gros Ventre Range’s landmark, The Sleeping Indian, rests northeast of the refuge. Even Yellowstone National Park can be viewed off in the distance. Short nature hikes start from the top, where a picnic area provides an idyllic lunch spot. Forest Service naturalists, who likely will enrich your knowledge of the area’s flora and fauna and distant mountain ranges, guide hikes there. The mountain’s summit, by the way, is there for everyone. A chair lift whisks riders from the town’s elevation of 6,180 feet to the crest’s 7,751 feet in a matter of minutes. More hearty visitors, of course, can ascend Snow King’s slope along its trails and traverses, on foot or on bike. But hikers will need anywhere from 45 to 90 minutes, depending on fitness and acclimatization. Scenic views are guaranteed either way, and the weary traveler can hop the lift back down the hill for a mere dollar. For those seeking an additional thrill, the Alpine Slide offers an exhilarating and scenic way to descend the mountain. Riders can control their speed down the 2,500-foot slide that snakes through trees and flowers. Folks of all ages can entertain themselves for hours at the base of the mountain by putting their way around an 18-hole mini-golf course near Snow King’s lodge. No lost balls around here.

Photos — top 2 and right: Bob Woodall; bottom 2: Wade McKoy

SNOW KING RESORT

The resort also brings top-name music acts to its base, in summer. Willie Nelson and Bob Dylan, among others, have played to delighted crowds, themselves also wowed by millions of stars and the mountain setting. Finally, in an effort to supplant, if not replace, the old-fashion drive-in movie theater, Snow King serves up outdoor movies for the entire family on August Friday nights. Jackson’s evenings, though, are not always toasty, so bring the blankets and beach chairs, and settle in for a special sundown treat. No doubt about it: this is the Old and the New West. — Samantha Worthington / Mike Calabrese

The tall trees above you are cottonwoods, Wyoming’s state tree. But look around at the four antler arches on each corner. Nah, we didn’t club “those poor deer” to death.

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have a running race to the top of Snow King, starting from The Square. Think you could you beat Tom Borschel’s 2004 record of 22:27? We’ll let you ski for free if you can do it! Walk past the Cowboy, take a right. Have dinner at or take a stroll through the Silver Dollar Dining Room in the Wort Hotel. Lots of wonderful moments captured in black-and-white pictures around the Western-themed room. Built in 1941, The Wort almost burned down in 1980, as shown in the pictures and news clips adorning the hallway’s walls. Valley firemen, though, saved the wooden bar laden with its 2,032 silver dollars. In fact, you might just head in there. Walking through near 90 years of history, why you just mighta’ worked up a thirst. Or you might wanna grab a bite and stay lost for a while longer. Come back when you’re ready, will ya? (Oh, and the elk antlers in that new arch? 1,948…12,000 pounds!) Cal Glover conducts tours of Yellowstone and Grand Teton parks via Callowishus Park Touring Company (307) 413-5483. He’s penned three locally set novels, including A Grizzly Death in Yellowstone. When he’s not touring or writing, he mans his post as Master of Time/Space/Dimension. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

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Stunning vistas await hikers above Teton Village.

by Lauren M. Whaley

With turnkey adventures and ready resources for each activity, “The Village” is making it increasingly easy to spend an entire day there exploring the mountains, dining, shopping, and sampling new activities before retiring to a cozy mountain room. The light is still bright and glowing at 8 p.m. during much of the summer, making perfect days seem endless. “We’re not Disney, but we do have the convenience of purchasing multiple options in one go,” says Anna Olson, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort spokesperson. The resort offers tickets good for different activities, like rock-wall climbing, nature hiking, and riding the Bridger Gondola. “You pick and choose,” she says. The resort’s Bridger Center makes a great base camp. Guests can easily walk or take

public transportation—the START bus— to it from rentals and hotels to embark upon a day of (or a summer of) discovery. Armed with an array of maps, guides, and equipment suggestions, the Bridger Center staff will help you create individualized excursions for yourself, friends, and family. Before you choose your adventure, you should know that the countdown has officially started for the return of the resort’s iconic aerial tram. The new aerial tram at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort will be twice the size of the original. Its sleek cabins will carry 100 passengers and will dock into new and improved top and bottom terminals. “It will be faster, more efficient, and tougher than its predecessor,” says Olson. The new red box is slated to start carrying skiers to the top of Rendezvous

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Photos courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

eton Village’s Jackson Hole Mountain Resort may be most famous for its steep and deep skiing, but in summer, the surrounding valley overflows with wildflowers, blue skies, and countless activities for the entire family.

The resort’s new tram station should be welcoming skiers in December 2008.

most disciplined hiker. Watch the clock, though, and the climate. High-altitude weather changes quickly from sunshine to thunderstorms and vice versa, so pack a jacket— and sunscreen—even for a short walk. Some folks hike down the mountain trail, a distance of 7.2 miles, while others hike up and ride the gondola down for free. Just up-valley, a 3.5-mile walk from Teton Village on the valley trail (or a short drive on the Moose-Wilson road), the new Laurence S. Rockefeller Preserve awaits those interested in adventure and history in Grand Teton National Park.

Via Ferrata—Iron Way This hiking technique uses permanent iron rungs placed into exposed rock to allow hikers to scale faces that would otherwise be impossible without climbing equipment. A European specialty, Via Ferrata has now become its own sport around the world. The new Via Ferrata in Jackson Hole allows a variety of skill levels, from expert climbers to the novice guest, to experience the joy of climbing in the mountains. Jackson Hole Mountain Resort will introduce routes at the summit of the Bridger Gondola, including one for newbies to practice on, in July.

Mountain Biking

It doesn’t get much more Western than the view from the cowboy’s best friend.

Mountain in Dec. 2008. Check out www.tramformation.com for videos, photography, and updates on its construction.

Bridger Gondola Until you step into the new tram’s cabins in ski boots, you can ride the Bridger Gondola to 9,095 feet this summer (unlimited gondola rides cost $18). On the way up, gaze below. You might spot moose, deer, or even a black bear foraging on the mountainside. Above, you may spy bald eagles soaring over hikers wending their way to the top—the fit and adventurous can hike from the top of the gondola to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain, if they’re so inclined. The gondola is open at 9 a.m. daily, May 25 through Sept 28.

cold drinks, including beer and wine, as well as snacks and ice cream. Housed in the same building, the Couloir Restaurant offers a sit-down lunch, a full bar, and outdoor deck service. From 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. on weekends guests can enjoy a four-course, fixed priced dinner. “Step off the Bridger Gondola in Teton Village at 9,095 feet and walk into a contemporary and hip, new restaurant,” says Olson. “The outdoor deck is a great place for lunch while taking in views of Corbet’s Couloir, the soaring heights of the Headwall, and the incredible alpine setting.” After dining at altitude on food prepared by former Four Seasons Resort Chef Wes Hamilton, guests can ride the gondola down under a starlit sky. If the food, alpine settings, and transportation to the restaurant aren’t enticing enough, take Food and Wine magazine’s word for it. The publication listed Couloir as “the place to eat,” in early 2008.

The resort recently created a bike-trail system that includes intermediate and advanced riding, with miles of rolling single-track. Ride your own or rent a mountain bike from Jackson Hole Sports, where you can also purchase a lift ticket to transport your bike up Teewinot chair lift. Ask a resort employee for a trail map. Those who want to get into tricks and jumps should check out the beginner terrain park on Eagles Rest. This is great for kids and novice riders and it’s free. For a leisurely ride without automobiles, take the Moose-Wilson pathway north to Grand Teton National Park or south all the way to Wilson.

The resort offers tickets good for different activities, like rock-wall climbing, nature hiking, and riding the Bridger Gondola.

Champagne and S’mores Almost everyone has fond (and often gooey) memories of campfire gatherings. New for 2008, families, couples and friends can enjoy handmade S’mores over an open fire pit at the summit of the Bridger Gondola with a glass of champagne. Weekends 5:30 - 8:30 p.m.

Bridger Restaurants The $9 million restaurants, boasting both a deli and fine dining, opened last summer at the top of the gondola, just below the Headwall. The Headwall Deli and Pizza is open all day, matching the gondola’s hours of operation. It serves hot and w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Hiking After deli ice cream or before a dinner date (for which “resort casual” attire is fine), take a short, naturalist-led tour into Cody Bowl or stroll the valley trail into Grand Teton National Park or make the trek up to the 10,450foot summit of Rendezvous Mountain. There are 468 species of plants within the resort’s boundaries, according to David Gonzales’ Jackson Hole: On a Grand Scale—more than enough to distract even the

Visitors may have to detour around tram work.

Paragliding If you prefer wind in your hair to dirt on your tires, Jackson Hole Paragliding will gladly take you to the top of the gondola for a sky ride all the way down on the longest commercial ride in North America. Their certified pilots continued on page 54 2 0 0 8 M O U N TA I N C O U N T R Y

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board Shop. Nick Wilson’s sells Jackson Hole Mountain Resort logo apparel.

Mountain Sports School The year-round Mountain Sports School administers all the “sporty” activities in Teton Village. It oversees mountain biking and trail orientation classes, for example. The qualified staffers also offer other fun recreational activities at the base of the mountain, including bungee trampolining, fishing-rod rentals for the pond behind the

You could spend an entire vacation at this full-fledged year-round resort, and judging from the passel of things to do and see, maybe you should. Mangy Moose, and rock-wall climbing. Additionally, they help operate the summer yurt and private adventure guide services.

Sleep in a Yurt Lush grasses may hide it, but these bikers have found the trail.

continued from page 51 have logged hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons and are eager to introduce first timers to the unique experience of tandem paragliding.

Disc Golf If making things fly through the air rather than attaching wings to yourself sounds more appealing, play nine holes of Frisbee golf on the free course near the base of the resort. Bring your own discs or buy them at one of the resort’s many shops. Playing is free.

Rentals and Purchases With so many places to recreate, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort naturally includes an abundance of shops that rent gear. These include Teton Village Sports, Jackson Hole Sports, Jack Dennis Sports, and the Hole in the Wall Snow-

Sleep over in the Tetons at the Rock Springs Yurt—the Village’s version of an upscale tent with Mongolian origins. The modern Rock Springs’ yurt houses a wood-burning stove, eight bunk beds, a kitchen, and a large dining table. This unusual adventure is both rugged and luxurious. Reaching the yurt requires a 2.5-mile hike up a trail that gains 1,400 feet in elevation. But once there, your only responsibilities are enjoying the scenery and your friends. Expert guides cook the food, stoke the stove, and even do the dishes. Not a bad tradeoff for an exhilarating hike. Porters are also available.

Kids of all ages take to bungee-trampolining.

On Team Extreme, older kids may go mountain biking, horseback riding, kayaking, even rock climbing! “They’ll be able to do all the things that are available to the public with their camp counselors,” Olson says.“It’s an activity-based day program with counselors who are well-trained, good fun people.”

Peaceful Pursuits For some, a vacation is about being pampered, and Teton Village boasts plenty of tranquil treatments. If you find it necessary to get away while getting away, several resort properties offer spa treatments, top-of-the-line fitness centers, and restaurants the likes of which you’d expect to find in metros like New York City.

Private Adventure Guide

Entertainment Daily, check out the Mangy Moose Saloon—the famous Teton Village bar with top-name, live entertainment. Throughout the summer, visit Walk Festival Hall to hear music from the Grand Teton Music Festival series. Witness epic orchestra performances under the music direction of maestro Donald Runnicles, only the third person to hold the position in the festival’s celebrated 45-year history. If you visit early in the season, definitely take in the Second Annual Mountain Festival over Memorial Day weekend, which kicks off the summer with live music, discounts, and plenty of food. With all its amenities and activities, not to mention being a gateway to Grand Teton National Park, Teton Village begs for a long stay. You could spend an entire vacation at this full-fledged year-round resort, and judging from the passel of things to do and see, maybe you should.

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Kids’ Ranch Got kids? Teton Village is well equipped with staff and facilities to handle wee ones from as young as six months old. The Kids’ Ranch operates June 18-September 2, right next to the Bridger Gondola. Licensed day-care providers lead youngsters on adventures in Teton Village while focusing on the nature, history, and science of Jackson Hole. Junior trekkers hike, play sports, undertake science and arts projects, and frolic in the water.

Those who detest the idea of narrowing the choices from so many amazing activities can hire an adventure guide. The guide will make these choices easy so you can enjoy your day without the stress of planning it. The guide will meet you and up to five of your friends

COME AND STAY WITH US.

or family at your hotel in the morning. He or she will plan the day for you, which could entail a guided excursion at Teton Village, horseback riding from the Village into Grand Teton National Park, or simply an itinerary that you complete on your own. The guide will even transport you back to your lodgings.

Besides writing full time from her home office’s antique drafting table, Lauren M. Whaley delights in jumping into mountain lakes, climbing rock, and dancing in town after a day of wilderness adventure.

Photos, left: courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort; this page, top: Wade McKoy; bottom: courtesy Grand Targhee

Teton Valley’s shimmering waters (above) lure fly-fishers and Grand Targhee’s summer music festivals (below) draw top name acts and devoted music lovers.

by Mike Calabrese

ust over the pass from Jackson Hole, set beneath the majestic Grand Tetons, lies one of the West’s most beautiful gems, Teton Valley. A broad scenic basin, once known to trappers and mountain men as Pierre’s Hole, Teton Valley is today a budding all-season playground for the young at heart. Teton Valley harbors a summer’s (and winter’s) worth of diverse recreational opportunities for the entire family, and it’s a mere 25 minutes from Jackson Hole. The breadth of Teton Valley’s eye-popping landscape cries out to anglers, hikers, backpackers, cyclists, horseback riders, music lovers, and to sightseers who just want to soak up all the natural wonders tucked in on the west side of the Grand Tetons. The valley’s high-altitude Western towns of Victor and Driggs still cling to their small-town charm while offering visitors service and first-class amenities to match the mountains. At the base of Teton Pass lies the town of Victor, Idaho, often a first and last stop for travelers (and for in-the-know locals) heading to or from Jackson. The Victor Emporium, right smack dab downtown, is the unchallenged old-fashioned soda fountain king of the region. The clever little enterprise also dispenses spot-on fly-fishing updates and info, and stocks all the gear and flies that put anglers in touch with their quarry. A wellknown hangout for those who crave chocolate malts or huckleberry milkshakes, the Emporium’s handmade soda-fountain concoctions are often the reward for anglers returning from a day on the nearby South Fork, Teton, or Henry’s Fork rivers, trout havens that lure fly-fishers and boaters alike. Teton Valley is also home to one of the country’s finest ski areas—the powder mine w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

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of Grand Targhee Resort. And, as with most ski resorts, its summer terrain promises equally rewarding adventures. Already world-famous for its unsurpassed and prodigious winter-recreation menu, Grand Targhee is now staking out its claim as a major summer destination resort. Countless activities await summer visitors and lodgers alike (that includes RVers), from hiking to horseback riding, from mountain biking to major music festivals to fine dining, all in terrain every bit the equal of Mother Nature’s best. The resort accesses hiking and biking trails ranging from halfa-mile to nearly eight miles, in an alpine setting where breathlessness is a choice. You can earn it the old-fashioned way or by climbing aboard the resort’s Dreamcatcher chair lift, which will whisk you and the crew to the 10,000-foot summit of Fred’s Mountain. And when the stars come out at Grand Targhee, they really come out. From July 18-20 this year, the mountain plays host to the enormous talents of musicians Emmylou Harris, Lyle Lovett, Derek Trucks, and Taj Mahal, among others, during its celebrated Targhee Fest. Then, from August 8-10, bluegrass royalty like Tim O’Brien, Spring Creek, the Sam Bush Band, Blue Highway, even crossover banjo virtuoso Bela Fleck, share the stage with scenery as grand as anything on the planet. Grand Targhee’s nationally known entertainment productions have paired up these spectacular headline acts with the aspens, firs,

Photos — horses & bikers: courtesy Grand Targhee resort; concert: Wade McKoy

Countless activities await Teton Valley’s summer visitors, from hiking to horseback riding, from mountain biking to major music festivals to fine dining, all in terrain every bit the equal of Mother Nature’s best.

Climbing for mountain bikers (above left) might still include the Grand. Aaron Neville (above right) testifies at last year’s Targhee Fest. Kids happily and confidently ‘set ahorse’ on the west side of the Tetons.

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gently sloping meadows, bluebird days and star-laden evenings that mountain country is famous for. Its outdoor festivals, now in their 20th season, are unsurpassed celebrations of music in the North American tradition. Grand Targhee’s growing list of activities and amenities include a Kids’ Camp Summer Program that will knock their socks off, a ropes course, climbing wall, disc golf, swimming, and more. And for visitor’s looking to gear up for Targhee’s terrain and the valley’s exhilarating recreational opportunities—notably biking, hiking, kayaking, and camping—Peaked Sports should be the only stop they make. Owned and run by serious outdoor recreationists, Peaked Sports sits right in the valley’s heart, Driggs, Idaho. These folks know what they’re talking about when it comes to making the most of equipment and the outdoors. Owner Dick Weinbrandt, for instance, is a nationally ranked Ironman competitor. You know, the folks who swim 2.4 miles, then bike 112 miles, before finally setting off on the 26.2-mile run known as a marathon— all in one event! A great place for training or recreation advice, and for gear, clothing, and guides to the region, Peaked Sports is the perfect shop for those looking for something ‘over the hill.’ Sure, it may lie over the hill from Jackson Hole, but Teton Valley’s array of summer activities and amenities sounds more like a fountain of youth, one that is luring enthusiastic visitors of all ages.

Yellowstone’s countless wonders include an array of geysers.

by Mike Calabrese

Face it, you might just need to catch your breath— maybe even that sanity—before handing over entrance fees to a ranger at the park’s gate.You could no doubt use a place where you can check through that list of necessities before hitting one of the park’s campgrounds or pitching a tent in the backcountry, or simply piloting your crew around Yellowstone’s countless wonders. If you’re anywhere near West Yellowstone, Montana, keep the faith. If you’re not in the vicinity, head there now! The town rests comfortably at 6,666 feet, its air clean and refreshing—and welcoming. West Yellowstone’s broad streets, its passel of restaurants, diverse shops, and tree-hemmed lodging could be the start of one great venture into Yellowstone park itself. Oh, yeah, and because it’s summer, the snow has been pretty much packed away until late next fall. The town teems with folks and activity throughout the summer, but then again, it is 2008, not 1907, when the town’s few visitors arrived mostly by rail on the Oregon Short Line. Travelers to West Yellowstone then had almost no means or opportunity to take advantage of a

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final supply stop before heading off into nature’s majesty. Today, 100 years after it’s founding, West Yellowstone’s 900 or so residents gear up annually for summer visitors readying themselves for park travels and mountaincountry outings. West, as it’s called by locals (locals include folks from as far away as Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and Bozeman, Montana), is the perfect place to begin preparing for that journey into the park. Bookstores stocking an amazing array of regional history, angling, and photography tomes also provide a sanctuary to relax in before—or after—a park foray. Gift shops, microbreweries, delis, pizzerias, bike and outdoor-gear rental outlets, angling shops, clothing enterprises, restaurants, sandwich counters, bars, grocery stores, all of them in West are prepared to help the weary—and at times stymied—traveler make the best of a visit to one of the most celebrated and impressive pieces of geography in the world. Here’s a short list of what West Yellowstone’s amiable folks can steer the visitor to: cycling, fishing, hiking, hot springs, horseback riding, rafting, kayaking,

Photos — Bob Woodall (3); Jerry Johnson (Diane Hausman painted buffalo)

ll right. You’ve been on the road for days. Pets and kids (maybe even spouses) clamoring for your attention, succor, food, whatever. You’ve maintained your otherwise threatened sanity with thoughts of Yellowstone’s splendor and magnificence, its vastness and promise of nature’s less domesticated sonic attributes (trees soughing in the breeze, birds voicing their approval, perhaps even the growl of some ursine creature). But are you really ready to hit the park, cold turkey? Without, say, a brief respite?

Solitude and scenery await Yellowstone park anglers.

The Painted Buffalo Roam

Visitors to West Yellowstone this summer should once again watch out for buffalo roaming the town. They’re big—almost life-size—and unlike their reallife counterparts, safe to approach and willing subjects for budding wildlife photographers. These buffalo are also artfully adorned. West Yellowstone’s Buffalo Roam art exhibit includes 26 hand-painted buffalo, 25 of which were created by individual artists from the Rocky Mountain West, and one that was painted by all 25 participating artists in a special ceremony last spring. Artists were selected in a juried process based on their visual concepts of three themes: Yellowstone, Historic West Yellowstone, and Native Americans. These buffalo all began as a single10-inch wax model crafted by Joe Halko and based on a photo of a bison cow near Madison Junction in Yellowstone Park. Halko then expanded the wax to an eight-foot-long model using layers of styrofoam, which was shipped back to Buffalo, Minnesota, and transformed into a mold employed to create 27 buffalo cows. Each spring for the next two years the buffalo art will “roam”—will be exhibited at different sponsors’ locations throughout town. At the end of the threeyear showing, the painted buffalo will be sold to the highest bidders. For more information visit the website www.wyed.org/west_yellowstone _painted_buffalo_roam.htm. — Mountain Country

tours, rodeos, movies, food, rest, the 53rd Annual Knothead Jamboree even medical assistance. And, of and the 11th Annual Fall Cycle Tour. course, churches—for those whose Topping it all off, the West in West souls have been tried in the best and Yellowstone is celebrated by that most worst of times, spent all too often in Western of traditions, rodeo. Cowpokes motor vehicles jammed with kin compete every weekend, from June and camp kitchen. through August, in the arena just a few West itself butts right up against a miles outside of town. Visit www.yelpark that is home to 300 miles of lowstonerodeo.com for more info. roads, six types of ungulates, grizzly Now if all of this seems like more and black bears, 10,000 thermal feathan a body could handle, there’s always tures, roughly 200 geysers and 41 watime for just laying over in West and terfalls, and at 2,221,766 acres, enough walking around the friendly little town land to apply for United Nations mem- Hundreds of wildflower varieties itself, grabbing some grub, a drink, or a bership. So when West opens its doors in Yellowstone, like this shooting souvenir, or just basking in a mountainfor summer travelers, businesses had star, bedazzle onlookers. country community smack dab in the better be ready. And they are, with products and services at middle of nature’s playground. peak quality. For more information, visit West’s chamber site at Visitors, too, had better be ready. Blazing hot days and www.westyellowstonechamber.com. Or call the chamber brisk, cool nights endured in cars, tents, or on the trails, de- at 406-646-7701. mand a certain amount of preparedness from Yellowstone’s Mike Calabrese, a 35-year resident of Jackson Hole, visitors. Weather extremes move in and out of the Yellow- supports his fly-fishing addiction as a professional mustone area like goldfish darting around in an aquarium. The sician, editor, and writer. He is the owner of Noteworthy, nights can carry both the haunting howling of wolves and the region’s premiere music-booking agency (www.notecoyotes (yep, even in town) and the daunting chill of quick worthymusicagency.com ). temperature drops. West’s summer calendar is loaded with gatherings and festivities that beckon devotees with a mind-boggling array 800-565-6803 of interests. June pretty much kicks off the region’s sum406-646-4892 mer season. Watch for “The Painted Buffalo Roam,” “The • Smoke free facility Painted Calves Unveiling,” The Janet Clarkson Memorial • Frig & microwaves Triathlon, and the opening of fishing on the park’s inimin all rooms itable Firehole River. July, of course, starts with the usual • Indoor pool bang and festivities on the 4th, while August plays host to • Free internet access the 37th Annual Yellowstone Rod Run, the 3rd Annual • Fitness center Smoking Waters Rendezvous, The Pineneedle Stampede— • Contiental Breakfast a footrace through one of the country’s most picturesque www.yellowstoneclubhouseinn.com trail systems—and the Yellowstone Historic Center Ball. westyellowstone@clubhouseinn.com September and October round out the social calendar with

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Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center

Yellowstone in Winter When winter comes to Yellowstone, it transforms the park into a wonderland. Sparkling frost clings to the trees. Bluegreen ice forms up the sides of waterfalls and geyser-fed waterways remain open, providing a winter refuge to hundreds of waterfowl, including the rare trumpeter swan. Bald eagles are seen perched in snags along the river banks and otters play in the snow. Larger wildlife is also about in abundance during the winter months, and visitors often find themselves sharing the road with bison and elk. Transportation is limited to guided snowcoach and snowmobile tours on groomed road- Elk and bison hold fast to the park’s landscape even in winter. ways. Complete tour packages, tour guides, and daily enabling visitors of all ages to sit back, relax, and take in rentals are available throughout the region, including all the incredible winter scenery. Special tours are also West Yellowstone, Mammoth, Cody, Jackson, and the Tog- available for skiers interested in gliding through geyser wotee Pass area. In addition to the groomed park trails, basins or exploring the backcountry. Ski rentals are availthere are also extensive groomed trail systems in the for- able in all the gateway communities. Winter in Yellowstone is a unique experience, and not est service lands surrounding Yellowstone. Snowmobile enthusiasts of all abilities will find plenty of riding pos- to be missed. Whether you choose to enjoy it by snowmobile, snowcoach, or on skis, be sure to come back to sibilities from which to choose. The splendor of Yellowstone in winter may also be visit this incredible area when it is clad in a deep layer of enjoyed in the comfort of an enclosed snowcoach. snow. It’s an experience you’ll never forget. — Bob Woodall Guided tours leave West Yellowstone and Mammoth daily,

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Photos — bottom: Bob Woodall; top: courtesy Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center

mage for food hidden throughout the habitat Nothing can prepare visitors to West Yellowstone’s Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Cenby both the center’s staff and visiting kids, reveals behavior that, frankly, few people ter (GWDC) for the startling, up-close experience of viewing these epic, almost ever witness. Seeing Illie actually snatch a live rainbow from the habitat’s stocked pond mythic, animals. The haunting, intelligent beats looking at even the most famous and eyes of the gray wolves and the regal pelage and majesty of the grizzlies is simply widespread photos of Kodiaks swatting at salmon. Impressive as those images are, they breathtaking, even in this carefully controlled and maintained habitat. A visit to the simply can’t convey the deft quickness of an center can be every bit as moving and edu800-pound grizzly. The center’s Gallatin Wolf pack—Lakuna, cational as a journey through the park itself, especially for folks who never venture away Hayden, Naya, Granite, Aztec, and Alyeska— roam in their own habitat, separate from that of from cars or campgrounds. the grizzlies, but are just as easily and producThe not-for-profit Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center, also host to a first-class edutively viewed from the viewing deck. Kids, as well as adults, seem mesmerized by the wolves, cational exhibit center and theater, is the last and because passes to the center are good for stop for some of nature’s most recognizable two consecutive days, visitors often return, as if and yet most threatened creatures. It should to confirm the reality and proximity of these be a first-stop for visitors to the park. mysterious ancestors to today’s canines. All of the center’s grizzlies were otherThe GWDC is AZAA (American Zoo and wise doomed, thanks in no small part to Wolves are again the center of attention in the Yellowstone region. their unfortunate adjustment to, or run-ins with, humans. bears, both “real and imaginary.” The 25 taxidermic spec- Aquarium Association) certified, a much prized and hardFoolish interactions, like feeding them or the misguided imens highlight the richly diverse coloration of grizzlies earned endorsement. A visit to the Grizzly and Wolf Diskilling of predatory sows by ranchers, put these bears on and the awe-inspiring girth of the polar bear. Even ac- covery Center will easily win over the hearts and minds a path toward certain destruction. The phrase “a fed bear complished outdoorsmen will find the exhibit area’s in- of visitors of any age. For more information, call the GWDC at 800-257is a dead bear” is not empty rhetoric. teractive stations intriguing and challenging. The center’s stunning exhibit,“Bears: Imagination and Watching these bruins (the playful Sam tips the 2570 or go online its site: www.grizzlydiscoveryctr.org. — Mike Calabrese Reality,” compellingly draws visitors into the world of scales at 1,000 pounds) tussle with each other or rum-

Story by Joy Ufford Photos by Fred Pflughoft

he sign welcoming travelers into Pinedale says it best— “All the civilization you need.”

Pinedale is still a small town at heart, set in big country. And it’s clear, even from the road, that the nearby Wind River Mountains, Green River and its lakes, historical sites and hordes of wildlife remained unspoiled all these years after trappers first gathered here in the mid-1800s. So setting off from the highway could no doubt make for an unexpectedly memorable experience. A weary visitor to Pinedale’s environs can easily ignore the modern world. The nearby Green River still goes drifting along like it has forever, the Wind River Mountains off in the distance change their intriguing hues from dawn till dusk, and bawling cattle are still herded through endless sagebrush fields by cowboys on horseback. But the visitor needs to get out there in that marvelous landscape—and it’s not that hard to do. Whether you prefer to drive, bike, hike, float, ride, or climb your way to cre-

Access to the glorious Wind River Range is only one of countless avenues open to Pinedale visitors.

There are some 1,300 lakes, and hundreds of miles of fishing streams in the area.

ate an adventure or find seclusion, it really is simple to get away from it all. So make a plan, Stan, or Pam! The first item to check off that list is ‘When to visit?’ Part of that is determined by your personal schedule, but knowing a bit more about the area’s events and activities might make it easier for you to get that coveted week or two off for a getaway. What to do? The mountain men, fur trappers, and piw w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

oneers who came through this country in the last 100, 150, even 175 years, found compelling reasons to return to the Green River Valley. Today’s visitors often discover similar reasons, and the beckoning landscape and high-spirited activities might be among them. The annual Green River Rendezvous, with its unique parade, mountain-man traders’ row, and renowned pageant of grizzled characters, is certainly one of the region’s most popular events, happening this year July 11-14. If recreating on and around mountainside lakes gets your adrenaline going, blaze a trail to the Father’s Day Fishing Derby on Fremont Lake, where the Pinedale Boat Club holds its annual sailing regatta and other water

events. Rodeos are featured during the Green River Rendezvous and Big Piney’s Chuck Wagon Days (over July Fourth) as well as during the Sublette County Fair, a downhome celebration complete with singing cowboys, rhinestone ropers, a fiddlers’ jamboree and more, all reflecting the region’s ranching and agricultural roots, July 25-Aug 3. Looking for something a little more solitary? The headwaters of the Green River, which flow past old homesteaders’ cabins and classy guest ranches, begin near the iconic Square Top Mountain and Green River Lakes. Trails, some fairly rough and some worn smooth with use, lead hikers, riders, and mountain bikers up into wildflower-filled gullies and through stun-

Lakes large and small, high up and higher up, are set gemlike throughout the Winds and nearby Wyoming Range...

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If you get a yearning for the old ways and old days, hiking into the Bridger Wilderness can give you that. More than 428,000 acres of wild land where you’ll never hear a chainsaw or meet a four-wheeler.

Trekking through the Winds reveals land and sky that create a stunning natural picture.

ning landscapes in a relatively short time. Lakes large and small, high up and higher up, are set gemlike throughout the Winds and nearby Wyoming Range, where fishing for mackinaw, rainbow, cutthroat, and golden trout is its own reward. Whether you go solo or hire a guide, fishing can be a complete vacation choice around Pinedale. The same goes for floating, kayaking, boating—even water-skiing on Boulder Lake’s chilly waters (not for the faint of heart, though). The Winds are so spectacular and formidable they almost defy travelers to find the range’s heart. But the rock climbing (especially in Cirque of the Towers), backcountry pack trips and horseback rides, flat-tofrightening mountain biking, and breathtaking wildlife watching (more animals than people in this territory!) are world-renowned. If you get a yearning for the old ways and old days, hiking into the Bridger Wilderness can give you that. More than 428,000 acres of wild land where you’ll never hear a

Kids love to captain their own craft.

chainsaw or meet a four-wheeler. If you require a little less reality but still seek experiences of the early days, there are quick and enjoyable alternatives. Visit the area’s two wonderful local-history museums and get a lesson as only they can teach it. The Green River Valley Museum in Big Piney is open June 15-Oct. 15, noon to 4 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, donation admission. The Museum of the Mountain Man in Pinedale opens May 1-Sept. 30, open daily 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Adults $5, kids $3. You’ll come away with a new appreciation for the mountain men, miners, pioneers and ranchers who struggled to find a way to survive in this paradisiacal valley. The next question should be, ‘Where do I stay?’ Make it as fancy or down-to-earth as you desire, from camping rough beside a mountain stream to cozying up at bedand-breakfasts, watching wildlife wander through cabin sites or savoring luxuriously rustic stays at working guest ranches. Campgrounds, RV parks, and motels fill quickly in Sublette County’s glorious summers, so plan ahead by

Welcome to Mountain Man Country!

making reservations before you arrive. If in all this outdoors-oriented vacation you need that little slice of civilization, there’s downtown Pinedale with its established cowboy shops, new movie theater, outdoor-gear shops, hardware and auto-supply stores, two weekly newspapers, arts and cultural happenings, excellent dining, and western shopping. No WalMart within 100 miles! Whether you need new cowboy boots or the latest in fishing gear, you’ll find it in this little western town with a big heart. People here are proud of their uniqueness, yet just as true of the Green River Valley community in the old-fashion sense of the word, there are bonds linking locals one to another and to the land. It won’t take you long to discover those feelings within yourself outdoors in Pinedale’s backyard. Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant where she is a ranch hand and writer for the Sublette Examiner in Pinedale.

Got the stamina to explore 1300 lakes & climb Wyoming’s tallest peaks? Pack your mule, pack your boots, and be sure to pack your camera.

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Green River Rendezvous Days

Pinedale & Sublette County Wyoming MountainManCountry.com • 888.285.7282 62

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July 10–13 For more information on planning your summer adventure.

Green River Rendezvous and Museum of the Mountain Man By Mike Calabrese

Meet me on the Green 72nd Annual

GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS PAGEANT

Art courtesy Buffalo Bill Historical Center, Cody, Wyoming. Gift of The Coe Foundation. 11.70

Photo Jeannette Boner, Pinedale Roundup

Only the term “mountain man” can Sunday, July 13, match that of “cowboy” for the wealth 1pm at of color and lore associated with the Pinedale “winning of the West.” Cowboys, of course, roamed pretty much everyRodeo where west of the Mississippi and have Grounds outlived even their almost mythical $5 Admission epoch of the late 1800s. But mountain men, who made do with less (after all, cowboys always had their horses and cattle), pretty much went the way of the beaver hat by the late 1850s. For every Bat Masterson, Bill Hickok, and Wyatt Earp, there’s an equally notable mountain man. John C. Fremont and William Sublette have a “Our Camp,” by Alfred Jacob Miller, depicts the 1837 rendezvous couple of Wyoming counties and held on the Green River near present-day Pinedale. Miller, who vismountain peaks named after them. ited this rendezvous with Sir William Drummond Stewart, provides Parade: Jedediah Smith and Kit Carson have the only artistic renderings of the original event. Saturday, July 12, 11am certainly garnered enough press to earn their places in in this rewarding and informative setting. Downtown Pinedale The Museum of the Mountain Man is open daily from popular Western culture. And mountain man Jim Bridger Lion’s Club BBQ: 9 a.m. until 5 p.m., through September 30. Admission fees is so revered around here that visitors to Wyoming will Sunday, July 13, 11:30 find no fewer than 21 places honoring him. Fitting, then, are $5 for adults, $4 for seniors, and $3 for kids 6-12 years that a .40 caliber half-stock rifle of his should end up in old. For more information call toll free (877) 686-6266 or www.meetmeonthegreen.com Call (307)367-2242 for information the region’s most famous collection of mountain man his- go online at museumofthemountainman.com. tory and memorabilia—Pinedale, Wyoming’s Museum of the Mountain Man. Even more fitting, the museum is situated on a hill not far from the site of the original Green River Rendezvous, which began in 1833 in the “Valley of the Green.” Over 3,000 Indians, hundreds of mountain men, fur trappers, and missionaries gathered there to barter and trade their goods. The cry “Meet me on the Green!” was a reminder and a reassurance to trappers, who spent long and isolated winters gathering beaver pelts, and to traders who traveled countless miles on hazardous, often life-threatening trails. These rendezvous sometimes lasted for months, time enough to get supplies, renew friendships, swap stories, trade, tipple, and, yes, debauch. Of the 16 rendezvous held during the height of the Rocky Mountain fur trade, six were located in the Green River Valley. Exhibits at the museum provide a good starting point for visitors heading to the 72nd Annual Green River Rendezvous, a re-creation of those original mountain man gatherings. This year’s rendezvous is replete with activi• Indoor Pool & Jacuzzi ties for the entire family and runs July 10-13. The Rendezvous Pageant, where over 200 members of the • Free Continental Breakfast community perform in original costumes, is set for Sun• Free High-Speed Internet day, July 13 at 1 p.m. at the Pinedale Rodeo Grounds. For • Refrigerator and microwave in every room more information visit the Green River Rendezvous Pageant Association’s website at meetmeonthegreen.com or • Located minutes from White Pine Ski Area call (307) 367-2242. The museum captures the ways and lore of these hearty individuals. Clothing, artifacts, mounted animals, even a Locally Owned & Managed tipi help bring the days of the mountain man alive. The muWest Hwy 191 in Pinedale seum also colorfully showcases western wildlife, Indians, 1054 W. Pine St. fur trapping, wagon trains, mountain men, and even bison Pinedale, WY 82941 in its spacious 15,000-square-foot facility. Bridger’s rifle, given to him in 1853, was at one time part of the Buffalo Reservations 1-866-995-6343 Bill collection. Fortunately, it has found a permanent home

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by Barbara Foote Colvert

The town of nearly 9,000 takes its name from founding father William Frederick “Buffalo Bill” Cody—scout, marksman, hunter, Pony Express Rider, world-renowned showman, and visionary. Cody saw in this northwestern corner of Wyoming boundless opportunity and invested Old Trail Town, resting right on Cody’s original town the region from 1879-1901. Old Trail town also harbors all that he was and all that he earned to make the region flower. And flower, it has, into a premier travel hub and site, hearkens back to a classic Western era. Twenty-six historic gravesites, among them the final resting place for vacation spot for families, history buffs, and connoisseurs weather-scarred buildings transported from around the Jeremiah “Liver Eating” Johnson. Johnson, of course, was Big Horn Basin contain thousands of artifacts from In- brought to life on the big screen by Robert Redford. of the great outdoors! Cody’s summer calendar is itself almost legendary, Yellowstone National Park, established in 1872 as the dian trappers, frontier settlers, and cowboys who lived in and from June through September, no one’s date world’s first national park, is a mere 52-miles east of book should be empty. On the outskirts of town, visCody. The road from Cody to Yellowstone is known itors and rodeoers alike gather for the famous Cody today as the Buffalo Bill Scenic Highway, and Teddy Night Rodeo, where local and regional cowpokes perRoosevelt justifiably called it “the most scenic 50 form every night throughout June, July, and August. miles in America.” That it is, with guest ranches ofThe Cody Stampede, the region’s true barnburner, fering scenic trail rides through landscape also perthis year kicks off on July 1, runs through the nation’s fect for hiking or photographing. Countless unique July Fourth celebration, and features pro-rodeo ridrock formations along the byway wear historic names ers in world-class competition. No wonder Cody is such as “Holy City” and “Old Woman and Her Cabin.” known as the Rodeo Capital of the World! But a glance in any direction from Cody also reAnd speaking of our All-American holiday, a veals plenty of other scenic drives originating right Cody 4th will dazzle young and old like no other, with from town. The Chief Joseph Scenic Highway and the three parades and a fabulous fireworks show at the incomparable Beartooth Pass, for example, or nearby close of four days of pure Western fun. towns such as historic Meeteese and Red Lodge, PowAt the Buffalo Bill Dam Visitor Center, just six ell and its Homesteader Museum, and Ralston, which Clockwise from top: The spectacular Wapiti Valley extends celebrates an annual Rendezvous and Mule Days, are from just west of Cody to the East Entrance of Yellowstone; miles from Cody, Buffalo Bill’s remarkable foresight all accessed from Cody. And at the park’s east gate sits Cody’s Wild West Shootout brings together the Cowboy Ac- is further revealed through his vision to bring water Pahaska Teepee, where Buffalo Bill entertained tion Shooters for authentic quick-draw action; colorful to the town and the region. The center also recounts the dam’s construction, and houses displays about friends and dignitaries from around the world. Western characters are often seen on the streets of Cody.

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Photos — this page: Bob Woodall; facing page: Wade McKoy

ody, Wyoming, is a big little town. Big in history, big in perspective, big in style, big in things to do indoors and outdoors.

the Big Horn Basin and surrounding areas. But it’s Cody itself that really calls out to travelers. In the curve of Sheridan Avenue lies the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, home to five separate museums encompassing more than 300,000 square feet. The original Buffalo Bill Museum was erected on the current site of the Cody Chamber of Commerce in 1917, just ten years after Cody’s death at the age of 71. Moved to its current site with con-

Outside the Irma, the Cody Gunfighters entertain visitors nightly throughout the summer season, reenacting famous gun battles and shootouts by Western characters you will recognize. The showdown begins nightly at 6 p.m. To enjoy a historic overview of the town, hop aboard the Cody Trolley for a charming tour through Cody’s past and present. This one-hour 22-mile tour conveys passengers through the heart of the West. Relax listening to music in Cody City Park during the free summer concert series; book a trip on the Shoshone River for white-water rafting, kayaking, or hire a fly-fishing guide; replenish your gear for hiking, mountain biking, rock or ice climbing, or cross-country skiing. Cody also boasts a state-of-the-art aquatic and sports

center in case the great outdoors (or the trekkers themselves) need a break. For lodging in the many excellent bed and breakfasts, hotels and motels, and for details of seasonal events throughout the year, contact: www.codychamber.org or www.yellowstonecountry.org William Frederick Cody received the Congressional Medal of Honor for bringing the West to the world. Come to Cody and see why! Barbara Foote Colvert has worked for more than 30 years as a graphic designer, journalist, writer, and editor, and has been an award-winning newspaper lifestyle editor and columnist. Her books include Harvest of Hope– Family Farming and Farming Families and Resolutions.

Buffalo Bill Dam on the Shoshone River creates the Buffalo Bill Reservoir, an asset for recreation and irrigation.

...Galleries and shops carrying Western art, photography, furniture, jewelry, clothing, keepsakes, and more, welcome the tired, the hungry, and the curious. struction of the Whitney Gallery of Western Art in 1959, the BBHC also houses the Plains Indian Museum, the Cody Firearms Museum, and the Draper Museum of Natural History. Take a break in the BBHC coffee shop or bistro, or peruse books, Native American jewelry, fine art prints, and other items of local interest in the gift shop. Museum visitors can relax knowing that a pass is good for a second day if they haven’t seen enough of what James Michener rightly called, “The Smithsonian of the West.” The wide streets of “Downtown Cody,” lined with galleries and shops carrying Western art, photography, furniture, jewelry, clothing, keepsakes, and more, welcome the tired, the hungry, and the curious.“Where’s the beef?” Cody’s range of fine restaurants will supply the answer, and whet the appetite of even the most discerning palates. The historic Irma Hotel, built by Cody himself in 1902 and named for his youngest daughter on the occasion of her engagement, sits in the center of town. The famous cherry-wood bar is one of the most photographed sites in Cody, a gift from Queen Victoria to the famous showman. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Old Trail Town, Cody, WY

You don’t have to search the globe for a great vacation, it’s here— Cody/Yellowstone Country. There’s no better place – or time – to be with your family or friends. Call or visit our website for a free vacation guide and package information.

Cody/Yellowstone

Country

CODY/YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY P.O. Box 2454 •Cody, WY 82414 • 800-393-2639 • www.yellowstonecountry.org

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Rounding out the Buffalo Bill Historical Center’s perspective, the Cody Firearms Museum reveals insights into the impact of the firearm on history. The fine art of engraving and revolutionary advancements in engineering are among the surprising elements of the story told with the world’s most comprehensive collection of American arms, as well as European arms dating to the sixteenth century. In addition to its five museums, the Buffalo Bill Historical Center hosts the McCracken Research Library, which specializes in Buffalo Bill’s Wild West, Western art and artists, Plains Indian history and of art displayed in culture, firearms history and technology, the natural history of the Greater Yellowstone region, the history of Yellowstone Park, Western folk music, and Cody area history. Visitors may purchase reproductions of fine Western art, jewelry, and Native American art at the Historical Center’s museum store, Museum Selections. Admission is good for two consecutive days and includes entry to all five museums. For more information call 307.587.4771 or visit www.bbhc.org. — Buffalo Bill Historical Center

Save 35-70% on Famous Name Brands Clothes · Footwear Gear · Home Decor and more!

Stop by the Cody Outlet Store Located near The Buffalo Bill Historical Center · (307) 578·5802 · SierraTradingPost.com/Cody 66

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Art courtesy Buffalo Bill Historical Center, Cody, Wyoming. Acquired with donations from the Whitney Purchase Fund, William F. Davidson, The Coe Foundation and Corliss C. and Audrienne H. Moseley.

Set in historic Cody, Wyoming, the Buffalo Bill Historical Center (BBHC) invites visitors to embark on a virtual expedition through the American West. With over 300,000 square feet of floor space on three levels, the center presents a breathtaking view of the West with an entire museum dedicated to each of five themes: the natural wonders of the Yellowstone region, the legend of Buffalo Bill Cody, the living culture of the Plains Indian, the fine art of Western masters, and the marvelous story of the evolution of the firearm. The center’s newest wing, the Draper Museum of Natural History, portrays the natural world of the Greater Yellowstone region, while understanding the Western environment “Buffalo Drive,” by William R. Leigh, is one of the vast collection the galleries of the Buffalo Bill Historical Center. sets the stage in the Buffalo Bill Museum for a fascinating look at the life and times of William what Crow elder and historian Joe Medicine Crow called a “living, breathing place.” F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody. The Whitney Gallery offers visions of the American The timeless beat of the powwow and the powerful recitation of stories handed down through the ages are West through the eyes of its master painters and sculpamong the audio experiences awaiting visitors to the tors. Landscapes by Albert Bierstadt and Thomas Plains Indian Museum. The use of audio-visual exhibits Moran share space with paintings of the classic West by in combination with one of the nation’s largest collec- Frederic Remington, Charles M. Russell, N.C. Wyeth, tions of Native American art and artifacts has created and W.H.D. Koerner.

Photo — facing page: Bob Woodall

Buffalo Bill Historical Center

by Nancy Debevoise

he mountain-hemmed town of Dubois and the Upper Wind River Valley that surrounds it are only about an hour’s drive from Jackson Hole, but they’re a world away. Trade alpine for desert... The area is one of the most spectacularly scenic—and still relatively undiscovered— vacation destinations in the Northern Rockies. Dubois is a small ranching community (population about 900) set on the Wind River between the Absaroka and Wind River mountain ranges. The town and its outlying hay meadows and cattle ranches are bordered by several million acres of National Forest, more than half of which are protected as wilderness areas. Spectacular Wild Country

To the east of town are the dramatic red rock canyons and colorful rock formations of the Dubois Badlands. To the southwest loom the rugged peaks and glacial lakes of the Wind River Range. To the North rise the pine-clad slopes and alpine meadows of the Absaroka Range. And rolling away to the southeast are the sagebrush hills and high plains of the vast Wind River Indian Reservation, home to the Northern Arapahoe and Eastern Shoshone tribes. The valley abounds with wildlife. Nearby Whiskey Mountain supports the largest herd of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep in North America. Other big-game animals and rare species thrive in the wild country that surrounds Dubois: moose, elk, antelope, deer, wolf, mountain lion, bald and golden eagle, grizzly and black bear. Area streams and lakes teem with an impressive array of game fish, including rainbow, lake, brook, cutthroat, golden and brown trout, grayling and mountain whitefish. Lots To Do in Town

Although outdoor adventures are the area’s specialty, there’s lots to do in town as well. The National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center, opened a few years back, has already become a major visitor attraction. The center houses a number of impressive exhibits on bighorn sheep biology and successful herd management methods used at Whiskey Mountain. Next door, the Dubois Museum’s exhibits link the valley’s ethnic, social, cultural, and work history with its archaeology, geology, and natural history. On Friday nights, from June 20 to August 22 at 8 p.m., cowboys and cowgirls take to the arena just east of town to test their rodeo skills. Dubois shops sell everything from cowboy boots and

19 N. 1st Street Dubois, Wyoming 307.455.3468 Open 7 Days Outdoor Gear and Clothing Fly Fishing • Backpacking Books • Maps • Topos www.windrivergearshop.com w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

An angler plies the waters in Brooks Lake Creek.

fly-fishing gear to handsome coffee-table books and upscale gifts. A tour of town shops reveals fine silver jewelry, crafts by Native American tribes, high-quality Western-theme gifts, and crafts by local artists. Off the Beaten Path

Dubois is a busy place in the summer, but the solitude and natural splendor of the badlands and mountains are only minutes away. Miles of scenic unpaved roads take visitors in vehicles or on mountain bikes deep into the backcountry, and dozens of trailheads lead to a network of well-maintained hiking and horse trails. Southwest of Dubois is Union Pass, said to be the only place in the country where three river sources flow in different directions: streams born on the pass eventually join the Columbia, Mississippi, and Colorado rivers. Union Pass is accessible to four-wheel-drive vehicles during the summer months and early fall. Southeast of town is Whiskey Mountain with its resident bighorn sheep herd and a major trailhead that serves as the jumping-off point for hikes and horsepacking trips into the Fitzpatrick Wilderness. The dirt road that leads to the trailhead makes for slow going, but sharp-eyed travelers can spot ancient petroglyphs carved into rock faces along the way. For those who really want to get away from it all, a number of local outfitters offer guided fishing and pack-horse trips into nearby wilderness areas. For more information about Dubois and the Upper Wind River Valley, contact the Dubois Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 632, Dubois, WY 82513, (307) 455-2556, or on-line at duboiswyoming.org. Nancy Debevoise is a writer who lives in Dubois, Wyoming. Her articles about the Northern Rockies have appeared in The New York Times, The Washington Post, Travel & Leisure, and Destination Discovery.

Stop in for all your fishing, camping & hunting supplies.

Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center Few mammals can match the Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep for its sure-footedness. Powerful and nimble, even at 250 to 300 pounds, it treads crags and rocky trails like no other creatures on earth. But this magnificent animal’s survival is threatened all over the West. Fortunately, its beauty and tenuous existence have been showcased graphically and elegantly in the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center, right in downtown Dubois, Wyoming. Stunning, full-size bighorns—set amidst their natural flora and geology—lend to this center a breathtaking realism. Photos and hands-on exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range and habits of these stunning animals. Set aside some time for the kids to take in the center’s engaging hands-on displays and information. Dubois, of course, hosts this interpretive center for good reason: nearby Whiskey Mountain is home to the largest wintering herd of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep in North America. And, during winter, the staff offers fully guided tours to the snowy habitat. The center’s website also accesses a biologist’s journal describing the sheep’s slow recovery from the population “crash” of 1990. Located right on the main street of Dubois (which just happens to be Wyoming Highway 287/26), the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center is open daily from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. during the summer. Admission fees are $2 for adults, 75 cents for children, and $5 for families. For more information, call toll free (888) 2092795, go on-line at www.bighorn.org, or e-mail the center at info@bighorn.org.—Mike Calabrese

Twin Pines Lodge & Cabins Your Home Away from Home, In Yellowstone Country

Whiskey Mtn. Tackle & Sports 1428 Warm Springs Drive

307-455-2587 whiskeymtntackle@dteworld.com

307-455-2600 • Toll Free Reservations: 1-800-550-6332 218 W. Ramshorn St • twinpines@wyoming.com www.twinpineslodge.com 2 0 0 8 M O U N TA I N C O U N T R Y

A C T I V I T I E S –B U S I N E S S E S –S E R V I C E S

ACCOMMODATIONS, CAMPING & SPAS CO DY , W YO M I N G

BUFFALO BILL’S CODY/YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY Information center, 836 Sheridan Av., 800-393-2639 www.yellowstonecountry.org pg 65

D U B O I S , W YO M I N G TRIANGLE C RANCH 3-6 day traditional summer dude ranch vacations with programs for the whole family.(800) 661-4928 or 307- 455-2225 TWIN PINES LODGE & CABINS Lodge & Cabins, A classic since 1934, modern with rustic ambiance, cable TV, VCR's, refrigerators, walking distance to restaurants, taverns & shopping, reasonable rates, Continental breakfast, Downtown, 800-550-6332 pg 67

J AC K S O N H O L E & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G HOSTEL X A friendly family lodge with rooms for 1-2 at $70 or 3-4 at $85, all have private baths & maid service. At the base of the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram, in Teton Village, Wyoming. 307-733-3415 pg 54 SNOW KING RESORT Full service hotel & conference center with condominiums, restaurant, lounge, & spa facilities. Alpine slide, miniature golf, chairlift rides to the summit of Snow King Mountain. 307-733-5200 PG 47 VIRGINIAN LODGE 170 rooms, jacuzzi suites, phones, restaurant, saloon, liquor store, convention facilities, cable TV. Summer RV park. 750 W Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999 pg 45 VIRGINIAN RV PARK 105 large spaces, 64 pull-through spaces. 50 amp electric, full sewer hook-up, cable TV, laundry, swimming pool, restaurant, saloon and liquor store. 307-733-7189 pg 45 JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING Conveniently located next to the Teton Village Market, lodging & accommodation for all seasons. Affordable condos to luxury vacation homes, for family getaways and reunions. 800-443-8613, 307-733-3990 PG 52

P I N E D A L E , W YO M I N G

THE LODGE AT PINEDALE Center of Pinedale, 43 rooms, deluxe continental breakfast,comp evening cookies, indoor pool & jacuzzi,laundry, lobby computer w/high-speed internet, refrigerator & microwave in every room, Sat-TV w/HBO. www.lodgeatpinedale.com. 866-995-6343 PG 63 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE MountainManCountry.com pg 62

G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Take a scenic chairlift to the summit, experience geocache treasure hunting or horseback riding in our panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 57

W E S T Y E L LOW S TO N E , M O N TA N A CLUBHOUSE INN Just 2-blocks from West Entrance. Indoor pool, hot tub, exercise room, smoke free facility, Continental breakfast. 5 restaurants within half-block. IMAX, Grizzly/Wolf Discovery Center, Museum of Yellowstone adjacent or across the street. 105 S. Electric St., 800-565-6803 yellowstoneclubhouseinn.com pg 59 DAYS INN 116 rooms downtown West Yellowstone, with pool & 100’ waterslide, only 3 blocks from Yellowstone National Park. 301 Madison Avenue, 1-800-548-9551 pg 59 KELLY INN While visiting the breathtaking expanse of Yellowstone Park, stay with us in our beautiful 3-story property with a rustic log & wood exterior, and a warm relaxing interior including a lobby fireplace.104 S. Canyon St., 406-646-4544 pg 59

APPAREL

CO DY , W YO M I N G SIERRA TRADING POST OUTLET STORE Cody’s best selection of outdoor clothing and equipment. The North Face, Carhartt, Kelty, Vasque, Marmot, Pearl Izumi, Lowe Alpine. Just south of the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, 1402 8th Street, 307-578-5802 pg 66

D U B O I S , W YO M I N G WIND RIVER GEAR Technical clothing, footware, rain gear, casual wear, trekking poles, tents, sleeping bags, camp gear, optics, books, GPS, compasses, maps, even canine gear for your best friend. ....where outdoor adventures begin. pg 67

J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G CLOUDVEIL MOUNTAIN WORKS Our Flagship store features the full range of our innovative outdoor apparel, all designed & tested in our hometown of Jackson. From versatile soft shells to authentic casual styles, quality without compromise. 120 W Pearl, www.cloudveil.com 739-3930 PG 17 JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 40th Anniversary! Locally owned & operated, Jackson’s premier outdoor store, extensive selection of brand name products needed for any outdoor pursuit. Two locations; on the Square in Jackson 307-733-3270, Alpenhof in Teton Village 307-733-6838. www.jackdennis.com pg 35 JACKSON HOLE CLOTHIERS Exciting store with the best in contemporary Western apparel: men, women & children.Shirts by Ryan Michael, Double D Ranchwear & Old Gringo Boots. Open to 9pm, Jackson Town Square. 307-733-7211. pg 7 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, accessories & Resort wear for the entire family. Mountain bike rentals and lift tickets. 307-739-2687 pg 52 MERRELL For 25 years Merrell® has been providing outdoor enthusiasts with quality performance footwear for their active and after sport pursuits. Available at Hoback Sports, Jackson Bootlegger, and Teton Village Sports. pg 5

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TERRA Find unique pieces from local artists as well as Calypso, Trina Turk, True Religion, Joe’s Jeans, James Perse, Robert Graham, Splendid, Lacoste, Anya Hindmarut. 105 E. Broadway. 307-734-0067 pg 12 TETON MOUNTAINEERING Jackson's backcountry shop. DMM, Black Diamond, Metolius, Petzl, The North Face, Patagonia, Arc'teryc, Mountain Hardwear, Prana, Lole, Carve Desgin. Rental camping gear available! Tents, packs, sleeping bags and sleeping pads.170 North Cache, Jackson 733-3595 pg 39 TETON VILLAGE SPORTS Jackson Hole’s mountain recreation specialists featuring a large selection of outdoor apparel, shoes & equipment for hiking,biking, fishing, backpacking, disc golf, skiing & snowboarding. 307-733-2181 pg 21

River Canyon. Single-day & overnight backcountry sea kayaking trips in Yellowstone. Canoe & kayak instruction for all ages & abilities. Full service paddle sports specialty shop. 260 N. Cache, Jackson, 307733-9999. pg 29

CAMERAS, BINOCULARS & PHOTOGRAPHY J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G

PEAKED SPORTS Located in Driggs & scenic Teton Valley, Idaho, our knowledgeable staff and full-service bike shop can help you gear up for all your outdoor adventure. 208-354-2354, 800-705-2354 pg 56

DD CAMERA CORRAL Jackson’s oldest full service camera store. Authorized dealer: Canon, Nikon, Lica, & Pentax. Binoculars, film, frames, & accessories. Friendly & knowledgeable staff. 2-hour film & digital processing. 60 So. Cache, across from Eddie Bauer. 307-733-3831 pg 13 & 71 FOCUS PRODUCTIONS, INC. Publishers of Mountain Country, Jackson Hole Skier & JH Dining Guide. Commercial & editorial photography & stock photo library. 307-733-6995 www.focusproductions.com WILD BY NATURE GALLERY features the wildlife & landscape photography of Henry H. Holdsworth. Behind the Wort Hotel, 95 West Deloney wildbynaturegallery.com 307-733-8877 pg 13

ART, JEWELRY & MUSIC

CLIMBING WALLS & CLIMBING GUIDES

DANSHELLEY JEWELERS: Wearable works of art created by Dan & Shelley, plus other designers. From diamonds to elk ivory, Teton and wildlife designs. Gaslight Alley, just off the Town Square. www.DanShelley.com 307-733-2259 pg 3 HINES GOLDSMITHS Jackson’s premiere gallery of fine jewelry designers since 1970. Elegant one-of-a-kind pieces, diamonds & colored stones. The original Teton pendants & rings, & charms of the area. 80 Center Street, east side of town square. www.hinesgold.com 307-733-5599 PG 31 JC JEWELERS Jackson’s premier fine jewelry store. Specializing in custom designs in precious metals and fine gems. Western designs include elk ivory jewelry and charms. In the landmark log cabin at 132 N. Cache. www.jcjewelers.com 307-733-5933 PG 7 NOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for all types of occasions. Call Mike Calabrese, 307-733-5459 pg 56

CLIMBING WALL Located in Teton Village at the base of the mountain, practice your climbing skills on our specially designed Mountain Dew ® Climbing Wall. 397-739-2654 pg 52 CLIMB WITH THE EXUM GUIDES Daily climbing instruction Jenny Lake & Teton Village. Beginner to Advanced. Climb Grand Teton & other peaks. One-day climbs. Families & groups. Reservations: 307 733-2297. pg 37 ENCLOSURE INDOOR CLIMBING CENTER Try indoor rock climbing for excitement and challenge. Climbing for all levels and ages.Great family fun at affordable rates. www.enclosureclimbing.com 670 Deer Lane, Jackson 307-734-9590 pg 37 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES Since 1968 Offering guided climbs and rock climbing instruction in the Tetons, Winds, Beartooths, Red Rocks, Moab & Indian Creek and City of Rocks. 800239-7642 www.jhmg.com pg 39

T E TO N V A L L E Y- D R I G G S / V I C TO R , I D A H O

J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G

BICYCLE: RENTAL, SALES, & SERVICE

J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G FAT TIRE TOURS Guided mountain-bike adventures on the Elk Refuge, Snow King Mountain, and the Bridger-Teton Forest. Beginners thru experts. Great Fun. 40 S. Millward. 307-733-5335 pg 23 FITZGERALD’S BICYCLES WANTED! Visitors to Jackson Hole looking for bike rentals, repair, sales & local info. Must be willing to interact with friendly bike addicts. Appreciation for customer service a must! 307-734-6886 pg 25 HOBACK SPORTS Jackson’s largest & complete bike shop. Staffed by professionals who can rent, repair, fit & accessorize. Dealer for Specialized, Trek, Haro and Santa Cruz. Bike tours daily. 520 West Broadway. 307-733-5335 pg 23 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS Bike Rentals for the entire family in the Bridger Center, Teton Village. Free Teewinot lift access with full day rentals at Jackson Hole Sports. Gear, sportswear, shoes, accessories and more. 307-739-2687 pg 52 TETON VILLAGE SPORTS Bike sales, rentals, repairs & accessories in Teton Village. We also offer a large selection of apparel, shoes & equipment for hiking, backpacking, disc golf, skiing & snowboarding. 307-733-2181 pg 21

T E TO N V A L L E Y- D R I G G S / V I C TO R , I D A H O GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Mountain bike rentals, single & double track riding from base. Expert downhill riding from top of chairlift. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 57 PEAKED SPORTS Located in Driggs & scenic Teton Valley, Idaho, our knowledgeable staff and full-service bike shop can help you gear up for all your outdoor adventure. 208-354-2354, 800-705-2354 pg 56

W E S T Y E L LOW S TO N E , M O N TA N A FREE HEEL & WHEEL Nordic ski & bicycle specialists. Rentals, repairs & sales. Casual & technical clothing. Patagonia dealer. Local knowledge. Comfortable atmosphere. Coffee shop inside, enjoy an espresso while shopping. 40 Yellowstone, 406-646-7744 pg 59

BOATING–CANOEING–KAYAKING SCENIC & WHITEWATER RAFTING J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G

BARKER EWING Safe and exciting whitewater adventures, relaxing scenic floats, combination day trips and overnight stays on the Snake River. Picnics, dinner cookouts, wildlife, mountains and more! www.barker-ewing.com pg 27 LEISURE SPORTS We Rent Adventure! Rafts, canoes, kayaks, duckies, catarafts, drift boats, fly fishing equipment, camping gear, SUVs, and economy cars. Guided fishing trips available. Full outdoor retail too.1075 S. Hwy 89, Jackson, 307-733-3040 pg 29 MAD RIVER BOAT TRIPS With 14 departures daily, Mad River has something for everyone. New equipment, trained guides & the most variety. Breakfast, lunch & dinner trips.The best name in whitewater & scenic trips! 1255 S Hwy 89, 307-733-6203/800-458-7238 pg 27 RENDEZVOUS RIVER SPORTS Jackson’s paddle sport headquarters. We have a full selection of top brand merchandise & offer guided tours & lessons. 945 W. Broadway in the Sidewinders Building. 307733-2471 PG 29 SNAKE RIVER KAYAK & CANOE Whitewater rafting in the Snake

J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G

P I N E D A L E , W YO M I N G SUBLETTE COUNTY Hiking & climbing in the Wind River & Wyoming Ranges.MountainManCountry.com pg 62

FOOD–RESTAURANTS–DELI–GROCERIES LOUNGES & LIQUOR STORES

J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G THE ATRIUM Full menu, from sandwiches & burgers to hand-cut steaks. Local beers & full cocktail service available. Incredible daily breakfast buffet & full service espresso stand. Summer patio dining. Groups welcome, kid friendly. At Snow King Resort 307-733-5200 pg 47 BILLY’S GIANT HAMBURGERS The locals' first choice for a great half pound burger, hot dogs and sandwiches. In a lively diner atmosphere. Daily from 11:30 thru dinner. Counter service & takeout. Next to the Cadillac Grille, on the Square. 307-733-3279 pg 72 CADILLAC GRILLE A locals' favorite for over 20 years. Choice steaks, game, fresh seafood & pasta. Innovative dishes prepared with care & precision for the discerning palate. Lunch & dinner. Premium well drinks. Bar menu. 2-for-1 happy hour 5-7daily. Opens daily at 11:30. On the Jackson Town Square. 307-733-3279 pg 72 COULOIR AT JH MOUNTAIN RESORT Step off the Bridger Gondola in Teton Village thousands of feet above the valley & walk into a contemporary & hip new restaurant, recognized by Food & Wine Magazine as the place to eat for lunch or dinner (Feb. 2008 issue) pg 52 43 NORTH Upscale Tavern at the Base of Snow King Mountain. Open nightly with alfresco and rooftop dining. Live Music. Enjoy aged steaks, fresh seafood, and micro-brewed beer. 733-0043 pg 31 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo & Elk steaks, burgers, jerky, salami & smoked roasts. Pick up your steak for the BBQ, gift packs available, WE SHIP! A must stop when in Jackson, Free Samples Located in Eagle Village @ SMITH’S Plaza, 5 min. south of town 800-543-6328 / 733-4159. www.buybuffalomeat.com pg 4 JACKSON HOLE DINING GUIDE This 96 page magazine is a compendium of menus from the areas restaurants, with index of food types, along with maps to restaurants. Pick up a copy at your lodge or view on line at www.focusproductions.com JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT At Teton Village, over 12 restaurants offer breakfast, lunch & dinner, from gourmet burgers, pizza to distinct American cuisine. pg 52 THE LOUNGE AT SNOW KING RESORT A casual place to have a drink. Specialty martinis and local beers with full dining menu. A showcase of regional entertainment. Snow King Resort 307-7335200 pg 47 McDONALD’S OF JACKSON HOLE Where quality, service, cleanliness & value are a tradition. Featuring McDonald's freshly prepared breakfast & regular menu favorites. Wi-Fi availability for your convenience. 5:00am-midnight daily. 1110 W. Broadway @ Hwy 22. pg 49 TETON STEAKHOUSE Breakfast, lunch & dinner. Steaks, salad bar, chicken, seafood & more. Jackson’s local favorite! Corner of Pearl & Cache across from Antler Inn. pg 49 VIRGINIAN SALOON Restaurant, saloon, liquor store, convention facilities, 750 W Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999. pg 45 WESTSIDE STORE & DELI Full service grocery, deli & meat dept. Custom sandwiches, fresh baked breads, ATM, gourmet cheese, thin crust pizza and specialty foods. On the Teton village road 5 miles before Teton Village @ the Aspens. 307-733-6202 pg 19

WESTSIDE WINE & SPIRITS Offering a wide selection of the finest wines, liquors & beers from around the world. At The Aspens, Teton Village Road. 307-733-5038 westside@wyoming.com pg 19

T E TO N V A L L E Y-V I C TO R / D R I G G S , I D A H O VICTOR EMPORIUM Ice cream & more. World Famous Huckleberry Shakes. Something for every member of the family, even the dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 57

W E S T Y E L LOW S TO N E , M O N TA N A ERNIE’S DELI & BAKERY Picnic box lunches. Sandwiches made with fresh baked bread! Deli-sliced meats & cheeses. Breakfast bakery items. Dine in or take out. Beer & wine. Call ahead for “no wait” pick-up! 406-646-9467, 406 Hwy 20. pg 59 FREE HEEL & WHEEL Coffee shop inside, enjoy an espresso while shopping. Nordic ski & bicycle specialists. Rentals, repairs & sales. Comfortable atmosphere. 40 Yellowstone, 406-646-7744 pg 59 TRAPPERS RESTAURANT Adjacent to the Days Inn, enjoy delicious food in a family atmosphere. Known for our sour dough, take some home. Only 3 blocks from Yellowstone National Park. 301 Madison Avenue, 1-800-548-9551 pg 59

GIFTS, ANTIQUES & RETAIL SPECIALTIES

J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G TETON VILLAGE Gift shops, apparel, sports equipment, at Jackson Hole Sports in the Bridger Center. 732-3618 pg 52 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo & Elk steaks, burgers, jerky, salami & smoked roasts. Pick up your steak for the BBQ. Gift packs available, WE SHIP! SEE FOOD & RESTAURANTS pg 4 JACKSON HOLE RESORT STORE The official logo store of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Your source for logo apparel & gifts on the east side of the Jackson Town Square. 307-734-6045 pg 52

all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Go horseback riding in our panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 57

J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 40th Anniversary! Exceptional guided fishing trips, hand-crafted flies, and superior service are the norm. On the Square in Jackson, 307-733-3270 & the Alpenhof in Teton Village, 307-733-6838. www.jackdennis.com pg 35 SNAKE RIVER KAYAK & CANOE Fly-fishing instruction & guided fishing trips. snakeriverkayak.com 307-733-9999 pg 29 TETON VILLAGE TRAIL RIDES Take a horseback ride on the Historic Snake River Ranch with a real cowboy. Hourly rides. Quality mountain horses. Next to Teton Village. 307-733-2674 pg 45 WAGONS WEST COVERED WAGON TREKS Relive pioneer days on a 2, 4 or 6 day trek into the Mt. Leidy highlands. wagons@silverstar.com 307-886-5284, 800-447-4711 pg 45 WESTBANK ANGLERS Home to Jackson Hole’s most experienced & professional guided fly fishing services. Full & 1/2 day trips, beginner to experts. Snake, Green, New Fork & South Fork Rivers & Yellowstone National Park. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 35 YELLOWSTONE OUTFITTERS 2 & 4 hr & all-day horseback rides into Teton Wilderness. 6-day 1st class horse-pack trips into Yellowstone & Thorofare Rivers. Orvis-endorsed outfitter. Box Creek base camp east of Moran Jct. @ 23590 Buffalo Valley Road. June, July, Aug & Sept. Reservations needed, 307-543-2418, 800-447-4711 pg 45 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Hiking, fishing, riding in the Wind River & Wyoming Ranges.MountainManCountry.com pg 62

T E TO N V A L L E Y-V I C TO R / D R I G G S , I D A H O VICTOR EMPORIUM Where the locals shop for fishing advice & gear! Hats, gifts, T-shirts, ice cream, World Famous Huckleberry Shakes, & more. Something for every member of the family, even the dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 57

P I N E D A L E , W YO M I N G

W E S T Y E L LOW S TO N E , M O N TA N A

THE BARN DOOR Unique furnishings, antiques, gifts & accessories for the home. Don’t miss this special diamond in the rough. 31 South Sublette Av. 307-367-3667, barndoordesign.com pg 63

ALL YELLOWSTONE SPORTS Backcountry rides in National forest or Yellowstone National Park. Great family outing. We are a Yellowstone authorized park concession. 800-548-9551 pg 59

T E TO N V A L L E Y-V I C TO R / D R I G G S , I D A H O

OUTDOOR SHOPS

VICTOR EMPORIUM Hats, gifts, T-shirts, ice cream, World Famous Huckleberry Shakes, & more. Something for every member of the family, even the dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 57

W E S T Y E L LOW S TO N E , M O N TA N A MOOSE MARKETPLACE Come in and browse our large selection of gifts, wildlife sculptures, Montana art, souvenirs, jewelry, home decor, rocks, t-shirts, candles, Montana made items & more. Something for almost everyone. 107 Canyon St 406-646-7831 pg 59

GOLF–MINI & FRISBEE–ALPINE SLIDE G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 18-hole disk golf course. 1-800TARGHEE pg 57

J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G

CO DY , W YO M I N G

SIERRA TRADING POST OUTLET STORE Cody’s best selection of outdoor clothing and equipment. The North Face, Carhartt, Kelty, Vasque, Marmot, Pearl Izumi, Lowe Alpine. Just south of the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, 1402 8th Street, 307-578-5802 pg 66

D U B O I S , W YO M I N G WHISKEY MOUNTAIN TACKLE We are a full sporting goods store that offers the area’s largest selection of flies, topo maps, hunting & camping gear. Licenses & ATV permits also. 307-455-2587 pg 67 WIND RIVER GEAR Find books, maps, trekking poles, tents, sleeping bags, camp gear, canoes, kayaks, technical clothing, footware, GPS, compasses, rain gear, casual wear, optics, even canine gear for your best friend. ....where outdoor adventures begin. pg 67

J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G

THUNDER MOUNTAIN OUTFITTERS 3-6 day horse-pack, fishing, covered wagon & hunting trips into the Absaroka & Wind River Mountains. 800-661-4928 or 307-455-2225 WHISKEY MOUNTAIN TACKLE We are a full sporting goods store that offers the area’s largest selection of flies, topo maps, hunting & camping gear. Licenses & ATV permits also. 307-455-2587 pg 67

CLOUDVEIL MOUNTAIN WORKS Our Flagship store features the full range of our innovative outdoor apparel, all designed & tested in our hometown of Jackson. From versatile soft shells to authentic casual styles, quality without compromise. 120 W Pearl, www.cloudveil.com 739-3930 PG 17 HOBACK SPORTS Jackson’s largest & complete bike & outdoor shop. Staffed by professionals who can rent, repair, fit & accessorize. Hiking & running shoes and accessories. 520 West Broadway-#1. 307733-5335 pg 23 JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 40th Anniversary! Locally owned and operated. Extensive selection of brand name products for any outdoor pursuit. Hand-crafted flies, & superior service. On the Square in Jackson, 307-733-3270, the Alpenhof in Teton Village 307-733-6838. www.jackdennis.com pg 35 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, accessories & Resort wear for the entire family. Mountain bike rentals and lift tickets. 307-739-2687 pg 52 LEISURE SPORTS We Rent Adventure! Rafts, canoes, kayaks, duckies, catarafts, drift boats, fly fishing equipment, camping gear, SUVs, and economy cars. Guided fishing trips available. Full outdoor retail too.1075 S. Hwy 89, Jackson, 307-733-3040 pg 29 MERRELL For 25 years Merrell® has been providing outdoor enthusiasts with quality performance footwear for their active and after sport pursuits. Available at Hoback Sports, Jackson Bootlegger, and Teton Village Sports. pg 5 RENDEZVOUS RIVER SPORTS Jackson’s paddle sport headquarters. We have a full selection of top brand merchandise & offer guided tours & lessons. 945 W. Broadway in the Sidewinders Building. 307733-2471 PG 29 SNAKE RIVER KAYAK & CANOE Whitewater Rafting, canoe & kayak instruction. Fly-fishing instruction & guided fishing trips. Full service paddle sports specialty shop. snakeriverkayak.com 307-7339999 pg 29 TETON MOUNTAINEERING Jackson's backcountry shop. DMM, Black Diamond, Metolius, Petzl. The North Face, Patagonia, Arc'teryc, Mountain Hardwear, Prana, Lole, Carve Desgin. Rental Camping Gear available! Tents, packs, sleeping bags and sleeping pads.170 North Cache, Jackson 733-3595 pg 39 TETON VILLAGE SPORTS Specializing in mountain recreation equipment including apparel & shoes for hiking, biking, fishing & frisbee golf, not to mention it’s winter all summer long for skiers & snowboarders. Rentals & repairs. 307-733-2181 pg 21 WESTBANK ANGLERS Jackson Hole’s fly fishing experts. Most complete selection of flies & tackle available. Mail order & website catalogues. Retail store on the Teton Village Road, just North of the Aspens. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 35

G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G

T E TO N V A L L E Y- D R I G G S / V I C TO R , I D A H O

ALPINE MINI-GOLF A beautifully landscaped 18-hole miniature golf course with waterfalls, ponds & Teton views. Located next to the Alpine Slide at Snow King Resort. Open 10am daily. 307-733-7680 pg 47 THE ALPINE SLIDE AT SNOW KING RESORT All ages, go at your own speed down a 2500-foot slide. Group rates. Daily from 10am. At the yellow & blue chairlift above the Snow King Resort Hotel. 307-733-5200 pg 47 9-HOLE FRISBEE GOLF Course starts at Jackson Hole Sports in Teton Village. Course is free, maps, info and discs available in the shop. 307-739-2687 pg 52

GONDOLA–CHAIRLIFTS—PARAGLIDING G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G

GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons, where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Take a scenic chairlift to the summit, experience geocache treasure hunting or horseback riding in our panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 57

J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G JACKSON HOLE BRIDGER GONDOLA Incredible sightseeing & a real mountain experience. Nothing gets you into the mountains like this. Ride 3,000’ above the valley to 9,095’ for spectacular views of Jackson Hole. On top enjoy a short hike. 307-739-2654 pg 52 JH PARAGLIDING Tandem paragliding rides from the top of the Bridger Gondola—the experience of a lifetime. Instruction available. Reservations & rates in Café 6311 at the Bridger Center at the base of the Bridger Gondola, (307) 690-4948 pg 52 SNOW KING SCENIC CHAIRLIFT Enjoy a view like no other of Jackson Hole & the Tetons from the top of Snow King Mountain. Guided nature hikes & picnic area. 307-733-5200 pg 47 TEEWINOT CHAIRLIFT In Teton Village ride the chairlift with your bike or on foot to access miles of single track for all types of riders and hiking trails into Grand Teton NP. Tickets & bike rentals at JH Sports in the Bridger Center, at the base of the lift. Free lift ticket if you rent from a bike from JH Sports. 307-739-2687 pg 52

GUIDES & OUTFITTERS FISHING–HORSEBACK RIDING–HUNTING D U B O I S , W YO M I N G

GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons, where

w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

PEAKED SPORTS Located in scenic Teton Valley, Idaho, our knowl-

edgeable staff and full-service bike shop can help you gear up for all your outdoor adventure pg 56 VICTOR EMPORIUM Where the locals shop for fishing advice & gear! Hats, gifts, T-shirts, ice cream, World Famous Huckleberry Shakes, & more. Something for every member of the family, even the dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 57

RODEO

CO DY , W YO M I N G CODY NITE RODEO Best of Buffalo Bill’s Wild West. All Rodeo Events. Nightly at 8:00, June 1– Aug. 31. Kid’s events, clowns, covered grandstand, free parking. Tickets available at the covered wagon in city park, front gate & various businesses. 307-587-5155 or 800-207-0744 pg 43

J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G JH RODEO Wild West action - Jackson’s lowest-priced family activity, kid’s events. Family-$40 Wednesdays & Saturdays - 8:00. Reserved seats - $14 per ticket. Free parking. Special July 4th Rodeo. 4 blocks from downtown Jackson. 307-733-2805 pg 43

REAL ESTATE

J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G DANA HARRIS, SALES ASSOCIATE, REAL ESTATE OF JACKSON HOLE Experience, Knowledge, Customer Service. Specializing in lifestyle real estate that fits your lifestyle. Golf properties, ski properties, vacation properties. Call 307-6905702, or visit us at www.LivingInJacksonHole.com PG 49 TETON VILLAGE REALTY Browse our listings or search for other real estate opportunities in the greater Jackson Hole area, visit our website at www.tetonvillagerealty.com. Teton Village Realty’s team of effective real estate professionals can be reached any time 866732-1801 pg 2 JAKE KILGROW, ASSOCIATE BROKER-TETON VILLAGE REALTY"On Top of Jackson Hole." Offices located in the town of Jackson and Teton Village. jake@tetonvillagerealty.com www.tetonvillagerealty.com 307-413-2822 PG 4

SKATEBOARDS & SKIS – CUSTOM MADE J AC K S O N , W YO M I N G

IGNEOUS Custom made skateboards, snowboards & skis, handcrafted in Jackson Hole, 307-734-8788, www.igneousskis.com pg 41

WILDLIFE & PHOTO SAFARIS –TOURS MUSEUMS, & INTERPRETIVE CENTERS D U B O I S , W YO M I N G NATIONAL BIGHORN SHEEP INTERPRETIVE CENTER Enjoyable & educational experience."Sheep Mountain,"photos & hands-on exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range & habits of these magnificent animals. Gift shop. 9am-8pm daily. 307-455-3429 pg 11

J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G RIVER RUNNERS MUSEUM Historic boats, rafts, artifacts & replicas take visitors into another era, when river running was a courageous & risky means of travel. In the Mad River Boat Trips “Wedge,” 1255 S Hwy 89, Jackson 307-733-6203 pg 27 WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS OF TETON SCIENCE SCHOOL provides yearround wildlife viewing & natural history interpretation to anyone interested in close-up, ethical viewing of Greater Yellowstone’s wild animals in their natural habitat. www.wildlifeexpeditions.org 888-945-3567, 307733-2623 pg 11

P I N E D A L E , W YO M I N G 72st ANNUAL GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS PAGEANT This hourlong re-enactment relives the early mountain man & Indian history of the area. “Meet Me on the Green!” Sunday, July 13, 1pm at the Pinedale Rodeo Grounds. 307-367-2242. pg 63 MUSEUM OF THE MOUNTAIN MAN Exhibits on fur trade, Mountain Men, Plains Indians and Western exploration. Open daily 9am-5pm through September 30. Green River Rendezvous weekend July 12-15, 2006. Toll free-877-686-6266 pg 62

W E S T Y E L LOW S TO N E , M O N TA N A GRIZZLY & WOLF DISCOVERY CENTER An exciting visit awaits the entire family where you’ll see live grizzly bears & a pack of gray wolves. Daily activities include live bird-of-prey presentations, camping safely demonstrations, films & special kids activities. 1-800-257-2570 pg 60 YELLOWSTONE INTERPRETIVE TOURS Summer van tours, winter snowcoach tours. Wildlife viewing, geyser watching, overnights available. Also guided snowmobile tours all in Yellowstone. Authorized park concessionaires. 1-800-548-9551 pg 59

WEDDINGS, CONVENTIONS, PARTIES G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G

GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 57

J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT Full service resort in Teton Village. Hotels, restaurants, lounges, recreation. 307-733-2292 pg 52 NOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for all types of occasions. Call Mike Calabrese, 307-733-5459 pg 56 SNOW KING RESORT Groups of 10-900. Board meetings to mountain-top bar-b-ques. 307-733-5200 pg 47

P I N E D A L E , W YO M I N G

SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE MountainManCountry.com pg 62

W E S T Y E L LOW S TO N E , M O N TA N A DAYS INN 116 rooms downtown West Yellowstone, only 3 blocks from Yellowstone NP, 301 Madison Avenue, 1-800-548-9551 pg 59

2 0 0 8 M O U N TA I N C O U N T R Y

West Yellowstone

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352

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Pk. ▲Gannett 13,804 ft.

New Fork Lakes

Highest Point In Wyoming

M o u n

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White Pine

Soda Lake

Ski Area &

Resort

Half Moon Lake

T o Big Piney & Evanston

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191 T o Rock Springs

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189

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Togwotee Pass

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INFORMATION BOZEMAN, MONTANA 406-586-5421 CODY, WYOMING 307-587-2297 DUBOIS, WYOMING 307-455-2556 GARDINER, MONTANA 406-848-7971 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK 307-739-3300 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING 307-733-3316 LIVINGSTON, MONTANA 406-222-0850 MEETEESE, WYOMING 307-868-2423 PINEDALE, WYOMING 307-367-2242 POWELL, WYOMING 307-754-3494 RED LODGE, MONTANA 406-446-1718 TETON VALLEY/DRIGGS, IDAHO 208-354-2500 WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA 406-646-7701 WIND RIVER VISITORS COUNCIL 800-645-6233 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 307-344-7381 Map design by Bob Woodall Copyright 2008-Focus Productions

DUNRAVEN • WASHBURN • SNAKE RIVER • GROS VENTRE • TOGWOTEE PASS • GRAND TETONS • OLD FAITHFUL • PAHASKA • BUFFALO BILL • SHOSHONE • NEZ PERCE • HOBACK • BRIDGER

To Bozeman

To Three Forks

• MADISON • MORAN • FIREHOLE • GIBBON • TEEWINOT • ROOSEVELT LODGE • WASHBURN • JENNY LAKE • LEIGH LAKE • NORRIS • GALLATIN • WIND RIVER • ABSAROKA • WAPITI VALLEY

• CODY • DUBOIS • JACKSON HOLE • RED LODGE • MAMMOTH • GARDINER • PINEDALE • WYOMING • IDAHO • MONTANA • YELLOWSTONE •

SNOW KING • HAYDEN VALLEY • MOOSE • WILSON • TETON VILLAGE • DRIGGS • VICTOR • GRAND TARGHEE • BEARTOOTH • COOKE CITY •

M O U N TA I N C O U N T R Y 2 0 0 8

w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Jackson’s Picture Place Since 1960

DIGITAL • Entirely new 21.1 Megapixel Full-Frame Canon CMOS Sensor, Highlight Tone Priority, and 14-bit A/D conversions for outstanding color tones. • Dual Image Processor for excellent image quality and processing speed. • Live View Function capabilities, displayed on the large 3.0-inch LCD monitor. • Shutter durability-tested to 300,000 cycles, dust- and water-resistant design, and EOS Integrated Cleaning System. • Up to 5 fps, burst rate up to 15 consecutive RAW images or 45 full-resolution JPEGs, and compatible with newest UDMA high-speed CF cards. • Includes Canon USA 1-year Limited Warranty/Registration Card. Warranty available for inspection at authorized Canon dealers.

• The PowerShot Powerhouse: A class-leading 12.1 Megapixel digital camera with unique Canon Image Processor, 6x Optical Zoom and Optical Image Stabilizer. • Full range of shooting and recording modes including JPEG + RAW for the ultimate in creative control. • Optical viewfinder plus large high-quality 3.0-inch PureColor LCD II screen for bright, accurate color with greater viewing from a wide angle and with an anti-glare, anti-scratch coating. • Compatible with a wide range of accessories including EOS Speedlites, Canon supplementary lenses and a waterproof case. • Includes Canon U.S.A., Inc. 1-year Limited warranty/Registration Card. Warranty available for inspection at authorized Canon dealers.

AND

Warranty available for inspection at authorized Canon dealers.

TOWN SQUARE

North

BROADWAY CACHE

• Digital Cameras • 2 Hour • Rentals Processing • Accessories • Digital • Amateur & Professional Film Processing

• High power 12x Binoculars with Vari-Angle Prism (VAP) Image Stabilizer. • Excellent image quality thanks to the Doublet Field-Flattener element. • Redesigned compact and lightweight construction. • Improved battery life. • Environmentally-friendly lead-free optics. • Includes Canon 1-year international warranty/registration card and 2-year extended USA warranty.

AUTHORIZED DEALER

• Cameras & Lenses • Binoculars • Digital Services • Used Equipment • Tripods

Compact and lightweight, these high-magnification binoculars feature active Image Stabilization in a comfortable ergonomic design.

% PEARL

307-733-3831 • Open Daily 60 S. Cache Street, Jackson, WY 83001

ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE SQUARE 733-3279 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING L A R G E G R O U P S A N D PA R T I E S A R E W E L C O M E w w w. c a d i l l a c - g r i l l e . c o m