Uncorked: Gin Tasting – Spirits of the Fleurieu by the award-winning Gill Gordon-Smith

Gin reviews by Gill Gordon-Smith IWE

The smell of fermenting grapes is something we know well on the Fleurieu, but over the last decade new aromas and flavours have been added to the conversation. Distilleries have been popping up all over the region and, unlike wine, spirits can be made all year round. In a relatively short period of time Fleurieu distilleries have gained worldwide attention, winning top honours in prestigious awards. It’s a versatile spirit that forms the basis of many cocktails, can be drunk neat over ice or balanced by different garnishes and tonics. In 2002, trailblazers John and Sarah Lark set out to establish the first Australian distillery dedicated to gin on Kangaroo Island. This triggered an amazing chain reaction that has inspired many craft distillers. Using abundantly available local botanicals our innovative distillers have added to the traditional base of juniper to make their products distinctly Australian. What makes gin, gin?

The process of distillation dates back to pre-biblical times and was used to make medicines, balms and perfumes. The word ‘alcohol’ comes from the Arabic word al-kohl which came to mean any liquid obtained by distillation – which is the process of heating a substance to a gaseous state and then cooling it back to liquid form. Gins can be sweet or savoury depending on which botanicals are used. Traditionally, juniper has been used to make a neutral spirit into gin, but distillers now add a variety of botanicals to make their gins unique. Berries, barks, roots and spices are some of the common botanicals, as well as citrus peels, anise, coriander seed, cardamom. Some not-so-common flavours to look out for include grains of paradise, finger lime, yuzu and even grenache grapes. The flavours can be added by cold compounding – steeping the botanicals into the spirit and leaving for a period of time without heating – putting them directly into the boiling alcohol in the still, or steeping them via a large ‘teabag’ (gin-bag?). They can be vapour infused or even blended. All of this is up to the producer and the type of still used.

London Dry – a traditional distilled gin, no flavours or sweeteners can be added after redistillation giving the gin its ‘dry’ designation.

Old Tom – dates back to the 1800s when gin drinking was rampant in England. There is no legal definition, but this style is usually sweeter, less botanically driven and is sometimes barrel aged.

Distilled gin – made by redistilling a neutral spirit with juniper berries. Other flavours and botanicals can be added after redistillation.

Old Navy – Taking its name from its association with the British Royal Navy, this gin was made stronger so that spilt gin would still allow the gunpowder to light. The officers were given gin rations while the common sailors were given rum as part of their wages. Tastings

Started by Master Mariner Rowland Short, whose strong association with the sea and a love of gin made a distillery inevitable. In a relatively short time Settlers has established itself as a leader in the region and has recently been bought by d’Arenberg, who will continue producing their artisan range of gins which include classic dry styles through to exotic flavoured gins with botanicals such as yuzu, earl grey and native bush honey.

Yuzu is a Japanese citrus that combines the flavours of mandarin, lemon and grapefruit. Fresh and bright, the citrus notes, classic juniper and lifted aromatics with refreshing acidity make this a classic over ice or garnished with a slice of orange. We loved it neat but even more with a Fever Tree Indian Tonic Water – the bitterness of the tonic worked really well alongside a dehydrated orange and a squeeze of lime. Very smooth.

Australia’s first dedicated gin distillery is located on the spectacular Kangaroo Island. Started by industry leaders and true craft distillers Jon and Sarah Lark, their hands-on attention to detail and passion for the traditional juniper-driven styles have produced award-winning gins with unique KI flavour. KIS has inspired a legion of other distilleries to join the craft spirits wave. Masterclasses, sales and tours available.

This world champion, multiple-medal-winning gin is a little higher in alcohol and full of lifted juniper aromatics alongside citrus, vanilla, lemon myrtle and local wild aniseed and aged in French oak barrels. The finish is long and spicy and warming. This is a sipping gin, complex and smooth, slight sweetness and perfect over ice. Suggestions for garnishes include burnt cinnamon quill or grilled pineapple but we loved it with Indian tonic and a sprig of thyme.

English heritage, a research chemistry background and a love of fermenting and spirits led to the creation of Mount Compass Spirits in 2014 by David and Jenny Martin. Their range covers rum, whisky and distilled gins including barrel aged, black pepper, navy strength and finger lime. Classic juniper alongside native botanicals gives a true craft product.

A base of juniper interwoven with finger lime, citrus and the freshness of mint make this a fragrant and perfect gin to match with a refreshing tonic for a warm spring or summer day. We decided that elderflower tonic and a sprig of thyme make for the perfect aperitif. So fresh and delicious, easy drinking.

A passion for gin and a desire to be more creative led Craig and Bec to dream of starting a distillery while still working their day jobs in health care. An obsession for hot cross buns was the catalyst for >

their first gin, followed by a Christmas gin infused with all the flavours of the season. Truly craft spirits made in a 120-litre copper pot still.

Lifted aromatics of fig, cinnamon spice and clove infused into a classic juniper base. Drink over ice, with tonic or mix as they suggest with good quality ginger beer for a comforting, mouth-filling and warming tipple. We mixed ginger ale, a splash of tonic and a slice of orange.

Established in Encounter Bay in 2020 by Lachlan Henry Fisher Rochfort, this distillery produces premium, world-class craft spirits. So far two gins and a vodka have been released, including a shiraz gin.

Simply delicious and perfect for the classic gin and tonic. Lifted and clean nose of citrus with some juniper and aniseed notes. We mixed it with the Fever Tree Mediterranean Tonic and garnished simply with fresh lemon and lemon thyme from the garden. Too easy drinking, perfect for a spring afternoon.

Made to celebrate McLaren Vale and its unique position between the sea and the hills, Two Accents’ range includes a dry gin, navy strength, and two shiraz gins. Their self-guided ‘Gin Flight’ can be experienced at Fox Creek Wines, McLaren Vale.

Vanilla, caramel and charry oak meld with lashings of juniper, dark berries and savoury notes, finishing with a smoky edge. This is aged in five-year-old American oak which lends a touch of sweetness. A real late-night, chill-out gin. We added a touch of tonic and a sprig of rosemary.

The Shifty Lizard boys have added distilling to their successful Willunga Micro Brewery and Taphouse, starting with a dry gin.

A new take on the classic London dry gin style. Full-flavoured juniper aromas and flavours alongside citrus notes make this perfect for an old school classic G&T. We paired a Strangelove No. 8 tonic with this gin garnished with orange. Beautifully balanced and slightly savoury – a serious G&T with character.

Award-winning winemakers and beer producers Varney Wines and are now exploring gin with their Grenache Rose Gin available in the cellar door restaurant.

Taking inspiration from their grenache-based rose, this gin is infused with lemon rind, black pepper spice, rose petals and of course juniper. Lots of pepper on the nose, and a real sense of the grenache rose, lots of exotic rosewater character on the palate. We blended with Indian tonic and a squeeze of lemon. Very unique.

McLaren Vale A fabulous new addition to the region, multi-award-winning Never Never have always been firmly focused on quality craft spirits. Flavour filled and with juniper the focus, their London dry gins work equally well for classic G&Ts as well as cocktails. The cellar door offers a unique experience with tasting flights, passionate staff and one of the best views in the Vale.

If you love classic London dry gin aromas and flavours with punch then this gin is for you. Perfect in a flavour-forward G&T with good quality tonic and a lemon twist. Loads of juniper, rosemary, citrus, hints of lime, liquorice root, cinnamon and pepper berry with a long finish. Very satisfying mixed with Mediterranean tonic and a sprig of rosemary.

If you’d like to learn more about gin, try the Certified Gin Ambassador course through the Wine and Spirits School TAFESA. Email wineandspirits@tafesa.edu.au