Fleurieu Lliving Magazine Winter 2017 by Fleurieu Living Pty Ltd

FLEURIEU LIVING

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South Seas Trading – the gods of small things • Vintage. Harvest. The vintage train • Willunga – a place of trees • The Salopian Inn’s garden of earthly delights • Take a ride with Helivista Art · Design · Food · Wine · Fashion · Photography · People · Destinations

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Call 13 13 01 or visit sealink.com.au Illustration by Chris Edser.

STAFF & CONTRIBUTORS

Key Personnel Petra de Mooy Working on FLM comes with many rewards and Petra still pinches herself every time she archives another great story. When not wrangling content, you can find her hanging out with Jason and their daughter, gardening, or perusing the farmers’ market. Jason Porter Jason has worked as a graphic designer and creative director both locally and overseas for over thirty years. When not in the office, he can usually be found in the garage tweaking some kind of rare high end audio component. Perscia Maung A lover of live music, Perscia has previously worked in arts and hospitality. These days she loves to walk her great dane and her cat on the beach. FLM has introduced her to many inspiring business owners – thankfully Adelaide Snake Catchers is among them. Esther Thorn Esther Thorn is a storyteller. She has worked as a journalist for twenty years in print, radio and television. Esther believes small things, like commas and apostrophes, are important. This makes her an irritating dinner guest but a good editor. Lulu Our company mascot, Lulu started appearing in way too many of our Instagram posts – so now she has her own profile (sad, we know) where you can follow her charmed life. Search for ‘miss_majestica’ if you’re so inclined.

Featured Contributors Winnie Pelz Winnie was an entrenched Adelaide Hills dweller until she discovered the Fleurieu Peninsula. She’s had many colourful incarnations as a teacher, artist, ABC journalist, senior manager, company director and even a CEO of a government department. In her quest for the meaning of life, she now spends her time talking to donkeys and her surrogate daughter Morag – a Highland Cow. She also goes on long walks - like Hadrian’s Wall and the Great Ocean Road - gardens, paints, weaves tapestries, curates the occasional exhibition and writes about people with interesting lives.

Jo Pike Jo’s work is governed by the principle that humans share their experiences by expressing them as stories, images and sounds. She believes in the right of every individual to feel the transformative effect that arts can have. In non-work time, Jo is a choral singer because as a youngster, she and her sister would lie on the floor in their pyjamas, listening to their mum’s choir rehearse. This early experience imbued them with an unshakeable love of classical music. Jo’s passion has seen her sing with choirs, dance companies and orchestras all over the country. Jo and her partner Paul, who she met in rehearsals, recently built a new home in Willunga.

Publisher Information Fleur Peters Fleur has shared her passion for Kangaroo Island art and all things related, with locals and visitors for the past two decades. You will recognise her curator’s touch, whether you are a long-time fan or have recently discovered Kangaroo Island artwork as almost certainly Fleur has exhibited or featured that artist. With partner, silversmith Fred Peters, Fleur operates the awarded Fine Art Kangaroo Island, the Island’s premier gallery, and will tour twenty of the island’s finest artists in their eighth exhibition for SALA at Adelaide’s National Wine Centre this August.

Other contributing writers and photographers Che Chorley, Annabel Bowles, Zannie Flanagan, Robert Geh, Gill Gordon-Smith, Ellie Jones, Nina Keath, Ron Langman, Mark Laurie, Heidi Linehan, Angela Lisman, Penny Westorp, Corrina Wright.

PUBLISHER Fleurieu Living Magazine is published four times a year by Fleurieu Living Pty Ltd. ISSN 2200-4033 PUBLISHING EDITOR AND MANAGING DIRECTOR Petra de Mooy petra@fleurieuliving.com.au EDITOR Esther Thorn ADVERTISING SALES Perscia Maung perscia@fleurieuliving.com.au ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Cathy Phillips GRAPHIC DESIGNER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jason Porter jason@fleurieuliving.com.au PRINTER Graphic Print Group DISTRIBUTION Integrated Publication Solutions SUBSCRIPTIONS Print: isubscribe.com.au Digital: zinio.com ALL ENQUIRIES Petra de Mooy petra@fleurieuliving.com.au POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 111, Aldinga, South Australia 5173. ONLINE fleurieuliving.com.au facebook.com/FleurieuLivingMagazine instagram.com/fleurieulivingmagazine/ COPYRIGHT All content copyright Fleurieu Living Magazine Pty Ltd unless otherwise stated. While Fleurieu Living Magazine takes every care to ensure the accuracy of information in this publication, the publisher accepts no liability for errors in editorial or advertising copy. The views of the contributors are not necessarily endorsed by Fleurieu Living Magazine. Printed on paper from well managed forests and controlled sources using environmentally friendly vegetable-based inks.

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THIS ISSUE

Contents

36 COVER FEATURE: South Seas Trading – The gods of small things. FRONT COVER PHOTO: by Robert Geh.

68 FEATURED HOME: One out of the box.

FOOD AND WINE

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

17 The Vintage Train

12 Markets, Festivals and Events to keep you busy all Winter

30 Cooks Feature: Nonnas and Nonnos 44 Uncorked – wine reviews 54 What’s new at the Willunga Farmers Market 74 Taste the Season – Cauliflower (or Brassica oleracea)

BOOKS AND WORDS 42 Winter reads from Mark Laurie

FEATURE: The vintage train.

FEATURED HOME: A place of trees.

FEATURED FOOD: Nonnas and Nonnos.

PENINSULA PEOPLE

ART AND DESIGN

BEING SOCIAL

46 Ros Miller – The accidental restaurateur

58 The magical world of Audrey Harnett

56 Don Oliver – In the name of Oliver

78 Creating Coonalpyn: Dare to dream

GROWERS AND PRODUCERS

WEDDINGS

50 Maddie’s Garden – the garden of earthly delights

84 April 1st 2017 Reid Pinto and Georgie Heinrich

FLM sees who was out and about at: · Sellicks Beach Historic Motor Races · Fleurieu Fringe · Heroines Soul to Glass · Nangkita Olives Open Day · Fleurieu Aquatic Centre Opening · Willunga Waldorf School Autumn Fair · Willunga Farmers Market turns 15!

82 Distilled and Rare

ACKNOWLEDGES

A special thanks to the advertising partners that have made a long term commitment to FLM. GOLD PARTNERS

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BRONZE PARTNERS

o 4 Kids Party at Strathalbyn Library Centre on 27 April , at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 5 May 2015, Aboriginal arts at Signal Point olwa from 5 May to 11 June gs Small Packages, at South Coast t Centre, Goolwa from 5 May to 18 June Yellow Brick Road - The Elton John ow at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 20 May * tickets/ booking required

1300 466 592. Alexandrina Council , www.alexandrina.sa.gov.au 8

Welcome to FLM Winter 2017 – our fifth anniversary issue.

Letter from a reader.

Once again, we are extremely proud of the stories portrayed in this issue – our fifth anniversary issue! And on behalf of our very small team, we would especially like to thank every one of our contributors.

Dear Petra, Firstly can I congratulate you on your brilliant magazine. I am one of many Fleurieu locals who read it from cover to cover each month. My husband and I have lived in Kuitpo for just over 5 years now and are finalising our sixth vintage as I type (covered in spider webs and about to head out into the vineyard once again!) This was a bit of an about face for both of us. I am a professional opera singer and Nick was a graphics computer chip designer. We both lived overseas for a long time pursuing these careers – Nick in Silicon Valley and me in London before we met when I was back in Adelaide for a singing job with the State Opera of South Australia. After chasing me around the world for a few years we married in 2010 and began looking for a lifestyle property where I could have a veggie garden and an orchard and Nick could make “some wine”. Not being specific we ended up buying a 7 variety 21 hectare vineyard on a stunning property just opposite Kuitpo forest. We both went back to university to learn what to do with it! Nick is now a fully qualified wine maker and makes 5 of the 6 wines we are currently producing and I am possibly the only fully qualified operatic viticulturist/vineyard manager in the world! We enjoy sharing our wines and our story with weekend visitors to our cellar door. Reading your magazine makes us realise that we’re not alone in pursuing a challenging “tree change” lifestyle in this wonderful region. Fleurieu communities are warm and welcoming and creative and supportive of such mad endeavours. Keep up the good work celebrating the characters who make this such an inspiring place to live. Best wishes, Cate Foskett

We have been so lucky to have met some amazing creatives while exploring all corners of the Fleurieu for content. We punch above our weight with every issue – and that all comes down to the diverse and interesting writers and photographers with whom we work. It means a terrific amount to us that we have become a galvanising force in the community. Here is what some of the best advocates have been kind enough to say about us: Fleurieu Living Magazine has provided a regional showcase and is a collaboration of many disciplines – art, food, wine and sense of place. A true vision into action, where social, economic and historical commonalities are creatively shared. Nicky Connolly Direct Marketing, Oliver’s Taranga Fleurieu Living Magazine constantly reminds me just how amazing our people and region are. Gill Gordon-Smith CSW FWS Fall from Grace Congratulations on reaching this milestone anniversary! Everyone knows what a wonderful landscape the Fleurieu Peninsula offers, but it’s the people who live here and who work in the landscape to make the fabulous wines, the amazing food, build beautiful homes and enrich our lives with their art and their deep commitment to aiming for the best in whatever they do – they are the ones that make the Fleurieu even more special. I wouldn’t know about most of them, but for FLM. It’s always a joy and a revelation to read about the talent, the skills and the achievements of our locals. And it’s such a well-designed, classy magazine, to boot! Here’s to the next five years! Winnie Pelz Gardener, painter and writer of occasional articles

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MARKETS & EVENTS

Winter Diary Dates LOCAL MARKETS: Aldinga, McLaren Vale and Willunga

Victor Harbor Farmers Market At the Grosvenor Gardens, Victor Harbor every Saturday morning from 8am - 12.30pm. Over 32 stalls, with locally caught seafood, organic vegetables, seasonal fruit, local honey, mushrooms, fresh flowers, Fleurieu regional wines and much more. Well worth the visit.

Aldinga Bay Art, Craft and Produce Market Aldinga Bay Art, Craft and Produce Market On the 4th Sunday of every month at Central Way, Aldinga Central Shopping Centre. From 9am - 2pm. Arts and crafts from local artisans, as-well-as fresh local produce.

COUNTRY MARKETS:

Willunga Farmers Market In the Willunga Town Square every Saturday from 8am - 12.30pm. You must go just for the seasonal fruit. Oranges, persimmons, pears and apples – the freshest you’ll find! Don’t forget to buy a membership and receive discounts on all the fabulous local food!

Kangaroo Island Farmers and Community Markets Lloyd Collins Reserve by the beach at Penneshaw on the first Sunday of the month from 9am – 1pm. Kangaroo Island’s top food producers sell a range of fresh local produce in a great village atmosphere. For special SeaLink Ferry fares, visit sealink.com.au

Willunga Quarry Market Adjacent to the Willunga Oval, on the second Saturday of each month, 9am – 1pm, rain, hail or shine. Come and browse an eclectic mix of everything, ranging from secondhand tools to plants and craft. There’s always something new to see.

Meadows Country Market Held at the Meadows Community Hall on the second Sunday of the month, from 9am – 3pm. Up to 70 stalls of local produce, crafts, collectibles, plants and bric-a-brac. A true country market.

Willunga Artisans Market In the Willunga Show Hall (opposite the Willunga Farmers Market) on the second Saturday of each month, from 9am – 1pm. Local art and craft, with a little bit of something for everyone. A great place to buy a unique, handmade gift.

Myponga Markets In the old Myponga Cheese Factory, next door to Smiling Samoyed Brewery, every Saturday, Sunday and on public holidays, from 9.30am – 4pm. Enjoy browsing a variety of stalls, including art, books, fine china and glass, toys, local leatherwork, coins, records and fossils. There are also waffles and gelato for those with a sweet tooth.

The Vale Market The Vale Market is open on the following dates and times: Monday, June 12, 10am – 3pm at the McLaren Vale & Fleurieu Visitor Information Centre. The market offers locally made produce and products, wine, art and craft as-well-as handmade souvenirs. The Vale Market is family-friendly and features buskers and local acts.

Strathalbyn Markets In Lions Park, South Terrace, Strathalbyn. On the 3rd Sunday of the month, from 8am – 2pm. A quaint, country-style market with brica-brac, produce, coffee, pies, apples, plants, soaps, jewellery and much more in wonderfully historic Strathalbyn.

Goolwa, Port Elliot and Victor Harbor Goolwa Wharf Market The Goolwa Wharf Market is held on the 1st and 3rd Sunday of every month, from 9am – 3pm. With around 80 stalls, there is a myriad of goods on offer. Bric-a-brac, collectibles, fresh local produce, coffee and food, plants, books both new and old, and hand-crafted goods.

Yankalilla Market In the Agricultural Hall, Main South Road, Yankalilla on the 3rd Saturday of each month, from 10am – 1pm. This craft and produce market features goods from the local area. You’ll be surprised at what you may find!

Port Elliot Market At Lakala Reserve Port Elliot, on the 1st and 3rd Saturday of each month from 9am – 2pm. A typical country market with plenty of fresh local produce on offer as well as a good mix of other goods, such as plants, bric-a-brac, books, fishing gear – even a $2 stall! There is sure to be something for everyone.

Above: ‘My Cup overflows’ by Anna Small. 12

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS: JUNE Bank SA Sea & Vines Festival McLaren Vale wine region June long weekend, Saturday, June 10 – Monday, June 12. Returning once again is one of the Fleurieu’s favourite events of the year; the largest wine-region celebration in South Australia. A wide variety of events, including intimate degustation dinners with winemakers and chefs, structured winery tours, live music and fun activities for families. Sea & Vines has something for everyone – you get to choose! For ticket information visit: www.seaandvines.com.au CHECK OUT THESE SEA & VINES EVENTS: d’Arry’s Verandah Nostalgic Degustation d’Arenberg June 10 - June 12 from 12pm onwards. In honour of d’Arry Osborn’s 90th birthday, diners will be taken on a multicourse journey back in time, indulging in food inspired by d’Arry’s boyhood and d’Arenberg’s 1912 inception. Each course will be cleverly paired with some of d’Arenberg’s best wines, both current and aged. d’Arry himself will meet guests upon arrival to share a glass of cheer and some yarns of old. This experience is rich in history and in sensory satisfaction. It costs $210pp, and pre-booking return transport is essential. Phone 8329 4848 to book. A Porchetta Party Oliver’s Taranga June 10 - June 12, 12pm – 4pm. Three course lunch with a seafood twist from Chef Steele. All produce is sourced locally, including a delicious porchetta from Ellis Butchers at McLaren Vale. Acoustic music and all your favourite Oliver’s Taranga wines included. Tickets: $100pp. Experience the General The General Wine Bar and Kitchen Sunday, June 11 from 12pm onwards Enjoy a beautiful three-course-meal showcasing seasonal and local produce, prepared by Chef Ben Sommariva. The dining experience will be complemented by a perfectly matched selection of Zonte’s Footstep and Mr Riggs wines from their cellar door. In addition, they will be releasing their premier reserve wine flight, which showcases some highly sought after back vintage wines. $85 for a three-course-meal with paired wines, plus optional $40 for reserve shiraz flight paired with tastes.

Blues and Brews Cabaret Red Poles Saturday, June 10, from 7pm onwards. Join Blues singer/songwriter Cal Williams Jr. for an intimate night of rich blues sounds, matched with spicy and soulful flavours. The cabaret will take place in Red Poles’ eclectic art gallery and ‘Blues inspired brews’ from Vale Brewing and Cradle of Hills wines will be on offer. Tickets are $110pp for all-inclusive three-course-menu.

JULY Willunga Almond Blossom Festival Willunga Oval and town halls Saturday, July 29 – Sunday, July 30 Every year the Willunga Almond Blossom Festival takes over the town to showcase all that Willunga and its surrounding areas have to offer. There’s entertainment galore for all ages, including show rides, food stalls, markets and so much more. Don’t miss the opening night fireworks spectacular! Visit www.almondblossomfestival.com.au for full program and costs.

AUGUST SALA Festival Various venues across SA August 1 - August 31 SALA Festival is the largest and most innovative community-based, visual arts festival in Australia. Come along to the many events and immerse yourself in the artistic talent of South Australia’s visual artists. Visit: www.salafestival.com for more details. CHECK OUT THESE SALA EVENTS: Jam Factory SALA Exhibition The JamFactory launched the first in a series of solo exhibitions celebrating the achievements of South Australia’s most outstanding and influential craft and design practitioners in 2013. This year, Jam Factory Icon 2016 Gerry Wedd Kitschen Man, is touring nationally and on show at Signal Point Gallery Goolwa from July 21 to August 31. This exhibition will be launched on Saturday July 22 at 2pm, all are welcome. Phone 8555 7289. Fleurieu Arthouse Unmasked Fleurieu Arthouse @ Hardy’s Tintara The month of August Just in time for the SALA Art Festival, the inaugural exhibition of McLaren Vale’s newest art gallery opens to the public. The exhibition will showcase artists who are studio residents and locals >

MARKETS & EVENTS

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS cont. participating in the new creative space. All are welcome to the launch of the gallery and studios, which will be held on Sunday, July 30 at 2pm. Open daily from 10 to 5pm. Phone 0410 433 244 for enquiries. How do we love thee? Let us count the ways ... KI the intertidal zone National Wine Centre, Adelaide August 4 - 27, Monday to Friday from 9am - 6pm and from 10am 5pm on weekends. This event will be officially opened by the Hon. John Hill, Chair of SALA on August 6 from 2pm - 4pm. Enjoy the outstanding diversity of Kangaroo Island’s visual artists in the eighth ‘How Do We Love Thee?’ tour to Adelaide for SALA, convened by Fine Art Kangaroo Island. Twenty two selected artists visually explore the island’s extraordinary endless coastline, examining the area between the high and low tides, to produce over 100 fascinating new artworks. They use a range of exciting materials and mediums, inspired by this ever-changing realm. Check the SALA guide for this year’s artist line up. For further information contact curator Fleur Peters: http://fineartkangarooisland.com.au Rolling Hills, Jewel Seas & the Urban Landscape – Art Exhibition Red Poles Saturday, June 3 to Sunday, July 30 A mixed media group of 18 artists showcasing art with a ‘sense of place in the urban and natural landscape’ theme. Langhorne Creek Cellar Treasures Weekend Various cellar doors in Langhorne Creek Saturday August 12 – Sunday, August 13 from 10am – 5pm. Visit participating cellar doors for a rare chance to discover otherwise unavailable back vintages and museum wines and enjoy lunch or a platter at your favourite cellar doors. For more information visit: www.langhornecreek.com Free entry. Strathalbyn Collectors, Hobbies & Antiques Fair Various venues around Strathalbyn Saturday, August 19 from 10am – 5pm, Sunday, August 20 from 10am – 4pm. The Strathalbyn Collectors Fair showcases the town’s heritage buildings and scenic views, and brings together exhibits of china, glass, antique jewellery, linen, lace, silver, toys and more. Entry to all venues remains at $12pp per day, or $15pp for a weekend pass. Under 18s are free.

Top: Gram Jar by Gerry Wedd. Photo by Andrew Cowne. Bottom: ‘Delicate Beauty’ by Jennifer Woodhouse, colour pencil on drafting film, 2017.

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FLEURIEU LIVING T H E B E S T O F S O U T H A U S T R A L I A’ S F L E U R I E U P E N I N S U L A A N D K A N G A R O O I S L A N D

Tonto Homestead

Oliver’s Taranga

The Luxurious Wilds

Mavericks

Treasure in the valley

AUTUMN 2015

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Beyond Expectations The Epicurean Way

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of Kangaroo Island

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of the Vale

T H E B E S T O F S O U T H A U S T R A L I A’ S F L E U R I E U P E N I N S U L A A N D K A N G A R O O I S L A N D

Coriole

FLEURIEU LIVING T H E B E S T O F S O U T H A U S T R A L I A’ S F L E U R I E U P E N I N S U L A A N D K A N G A R O O I S L A N D

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Aldinga Rising Hippest destination in the south • Barn1890 The rebuild • Young Farmers A new crop • Winemaker of the Year Peter Fraser • Big Win for Southern Fleurieu Aquatic centre

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McLaren Vale Region · Goolwa · Victor Harbor · Yankalilla · Kangaroo Island

FLEURIEU LIVING

Self drive tour of discovery An evolving garden

Still going strong in the Vale

McLaren Vale Region · Goolwa · Victor Harbor · Yankalilla · Kangaroo Island

FLEURIEU LIVING T H E B E S T O F S O U T H A U S T R A L I A’ S F L E U R I E U P E N I N S U L A A N D K A N G A R O O I S L A N D

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The Slow Road to Dingabledinga • Hot Summer Fashion • The Olfactory Inn at Strathalbyn • Snake Charmers • Nature Play at Goolwa • Artists: Josh Miels / Caitlin Whitehouse / Nicholas Pike and Loren Kate McLaren Vale Region · Goolwa · Victor Harbor · Yankalilla · Kangaroo Island

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FLEURIEU LIVING T H E B E S T O F S O U T H A U S T R A L I A’ S F L E U R I E U P E N I N S U L A A N D K A N G A R O O I S L A N D

While alive, celebrate – a vineyard home in Kangarilla Women in wine – making the most of the season Evette Sunset’s character filled Willunga home Autumn on Kangaroo Island – something to savour Willunga Art Gallery

• Port Noarlunga: Family living at its finest • Meldon: A gorgeous stone house full of ‘real stuff’ and dreams • Vineyard View: New function centre in the Vale • Eat drink and enjoy the view at the Goolwa Wharf Precinct • Feastival Kangaroo Island. Go there!

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Copperstone KI – Modern coastal living Winnie Pelz – From Solstice to Solstice Italian winemakers finding La Dolce Vita in McLaren Vale Made by Culture – Cafés of the Western Fleurieu A love story at Leonards Mill McLaren Vale Region · Goolwa · Victor Harbor · Yankalilla · Kangaroo Island

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Green Tank at Mount Compass • Living Happily Ever After in Willunga • Treasures • Ask a Local • A Vintage Romance • The heart of the community • Ooh Aah McLaren Vale Region · Goolwa · Victor Harbor · Yankalilla · Kangaroo Island

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A remarkable building – Inman Valley • An island adventure • Young guns of the Fleurieu • The talented Mr Riggs • Oddfellows and Rebekahs • The Enchanted Fig Tree Art · Design · Food · Wine · Fashion · Photography · People · Destinations

The vintage train Story by Corrina Wright. Photographs by Heidi Linehan.

Above: Award winning winemaker Greg Follett at Lake Breeze Winres during vintage 2017.

Vintage. Harvest. The words hold within them a promise of intensity and effort. A quick trip to the shops becomes a slow dawdle down the street between three tractors, a harvester and a truck from last century. It’s five in the morning and the first light is slowly stretching over the vineyards of McLaren Vale. There is a rare moment of quiet as cellar hand Kisani Poole glances up and sees the first rays of dawn coating the winery in an ethereal glow. The energetic thirty-three year old has almost finished an epic vintage night shift. She must be exhausted but she speaks quickly, enthusiastically, using cellar hand lingo. ‘It started with crushing a sauvy (sauvignon blanc),’ she explains. ‘Then, we had to get that pressing, do the adds (additions), while at the same time pressing a couple of red opens (red fermenters), cleaning the crusher ready for the morning, helping my two legend casuals out when they need me, plus unloading fruit from tractors and filling them up with empty bins. My knock-off frothies (beers) this morning will be truly amazing.’ Kisani has been a full-time cellar hand at Haselgroves for five years. She’s full of effervescent exuberance, so it is no surprise that it is the ‘crazy’ of vintage that keeps her coming back. At about the time Kisani finally cracks her beer, grape grower and harvesting contractor Richard Leask takes a moment to listen to

the audible hum, buzz and comradery of a region in the full swing of vintage. He’s just come off a calm, cool night of harvesting, where the smell of the ocean was fresh in the air, and wouldn’t rather be anywhere else in the world. What makes him smile during the long hours in the vines, are memories of his legendary mum Margaret Leask. She was the ‘queen’ of contract harvester logistics for more than forty vintages. ‘She spent her life on the phone organising grapes, harvesters, transport and people,’ remembers Richard. ‘She had this funny trait of talking at a volume in accordance with where the person on the other end of the line was situated. McLaren Flat – normal tone. Willunga – moderate to high. Bookings’ officer based in the Barossa – megaphone level!’ Vintage. Harvest. The words hold within them a promise of intensity and effort. Like labour at the end of a long pregnancy, vintage is the culmination of ten months of carefully tending the vine. The first sign that something is afoot in the region is a jump in the number of languages overheard at the local supermarket. The backpackers have arrived. Next, you start to notice all manner of > 17

Above left: Koen and Saaz loving the part they play in bringing the grapes to harvest. Above right: Always smiling Kasani Poole – the multi-tasking vintage queen! Bottom left: A little additional protein? Not to worry – it will get will get filtered and fermented straight out! Bottom right: Yummmm grapes.

vehicles; tractors, trailers, grape bins, harvesters, trucks and forklifts edging their way out of the forgotten, dusty corners of sheds. Each one gets a careful going over to ensure it’s roadworthy, registered, and ready for the grapes that are to come. Discussion at the post office is consumed with weather, tonnages and baume (ripeness) levels. Wineries are polished and gleaming with expectation. The new vintage cellar hands have completed their inductions and have filled share houses to the brim. Then it’s on. A quick trip to the shops becomes a slow dawdle down the street between three tractors, a harvester and a truck from last century. Worse, you get stuck behind a snaking cavalcade of hand pickers as they travel from one vineyard to another. The smell of grapes, soil, diesel, sweat and fermentation permeates the air. When you drive back to the region at night, the wineries are lit up like a myriad of vinous space pods. Weather ‘apps’ are constantly open on phones and are continually consulted. Vintage winery romances flourish in the hothouse environment of not enough sleep, little contact with the outside world and no privacy in the share accommodation. The drone of numerous machine harvesters ‘whop, whop, whopping’, the

reversing beeps of forklifts and trucks and the blaring winery radios becomes the soundtrack to regional life. It’s this heady mix of the unusual and the mundane that draws people from across the globe back to the region year after year. In the historic, red gum-lined flood plains of Langhorne Creek, Spaniard Lidia Planas Diaz is driving to work as the morning sun rises. She’s returned for a second year to work vintage at Matilda Plains with winemaker Rebecca Willson. Lidia grew up in a wine region close to the Mediterranean sea, but has come back to the Fleurieu for (rumour has it) love, and the chance to ‘… finish my shift with a swim at one of the wonderful Port Elliot beaches!’ Meanwhile, back in Blewitt Springs, self-described ‘Chief Sandwich Maker’ at Geddes Wines, Amanda Geddes, is planning her menu for the day. She is charged with feeding a vintage crew made up of dedicated foodies working all hours of the day and night. She doesn’t hesitate when I ask her what she likes best about vintage. ‘Giving a hangry (hungry/angry) vintage worker an Ellis smoked bacon, free-range egg, homemade tomato relish, Home Grain Bakery sourdough roll and watching the transformation from dark to

Above left: Logistics magnate Sami Gilligan with sons Mali and Finn. Above right: Moving the fruit. Bottom left: Charged with feeding the vintage crew at Geddes Wines, Chef Amanda Geddes raises the bar for the number of gourmet meals on offer during a very busy time. Bottom right: Checking the ferments at the Matilda Plains Winery at Langhorne Creek.

light in their face,’ she says. This fact is supported by local butcher Ian Shaw, who confirms that bacon sales definitely increase during the harvest season, as does the demand for snags and chops in large quantities to sustain many a hungry vintage worker. Handpicking-gang boss Tony Natale knows too well the tiredness and hunger that come with vintage. A veteran of more than thirty vintages, he is truly something to behold as he rallies a rabble of hand pickers and bucket boys who hail from across the globe. Tony’s voice booms instructions as the tractors rumble into position. When the odd swear word sneaks into his commands for the day it’s always softened by his warm humour. Tony tells me his favourite vintage story: ‘On April Fools’ Day one year, we were picking at David Paxton’s. After picking the block, I lined the pickers back up over the same section of vineyard. Many had confused looks and were asking me why they were lining up behind rows with no grapes on them. With a straight face, I told them that we were harvesting the leaves, paying five dollars a bucket. They all raced in and started picking leaves like crazy. I had to quickly tell them it was April Fools’! We were all laughing so hard; I really got them a good one!’

As McLaren Vale barber Darren McGuiness opens his doors for the day, he reflects on the change in his business during vintage. As the ‘big dance’ draws near, everyone comes in for a pre-vintage tidy up, all choosing to go a little bit shorter than normal, well aware it’ll be a while before they get back. At a nearby winery, Fleurieu trucking magnate Sami Gilligan has his phone permanently attached to his ear as he waits for his load of shiraz grapes to be tipped into the crusher. Managing his thirteen trucks, along with their attached drivers, growers and wineries is no small logistical feat. Sami’s been involved in twenty-two vintages and loves the way the community pulls together to get the job done. He says vintage is all about expecting the unexpected and describes his strangest harvest experience. While waiting to unload at a winery, Sami started chatting to a man. The man asked Sami if he likes potatoes and: ‘I ended up buying twenty kilograms of potatoes from him and I thought that I had got a bargain,’ laughs Sami. ‘However, having never bought potatoes before, I was soon to learn that I had massively overpaid. I was reminded of my mistake for months by my wife, and had to eat potatoes for breakfast, lunch and dinner!’ >

Above left: Back for her second vintage, Lidia Planas Diaz loves heading to Horseshoe Bay after a hot day in the winery for a refreshing dip. Above right: Wine maker Richard Leask checking for readiness to pick.

So let’s toast a region that comes together each day and each night to create part of the lifeblood that sustains the Fleurieu Peninsula economy. Laboratory manager at McLaren Vintners Jo Swayn is enjoying a pre-work coffee on her front lawn, watching the harvester in the vineyard across the road. She loves vintage time. ‘It is when the magic happens,’ she enthuses. Jo enjoys the fact that the range of winery analysis she performs widens significantly during vintage, with grapes, juices, ferments and yeasts to keep track, instead of just wines in barrel or tank. She too relishes being part of a community that pulls together to get the job done. A few hours later, back in Langhorne Creek, Lake Breeze winemaker Greg Follett finally sits down to enjoy his mum’s home cooked lunch. He’s had twenty-nine vintages to hone his craft. But each year the promise of creating something wonderful and completely new re-inspires him. He recalls one vintage with a smile: ‘I was plunging a small fermenter when I stumbled and finished up chest deep in shiraz. The next half an hour I spent continuing my work on the top level of the catwalk dressed only in an old towel without a care in the world, never thinking about those working on the winery floor who were getting quite an eyeful every time they looked up!’ Even the youngest residents of this beautiful region feel the change of rhythm that vintage brings. My own son, seven-year-old Koen Wright and his dog Saaz are enjoying the late afternoon light playing in the vineyard. Koen is a little solemn, disappointed that his 20

favourite block of Tempranillo was picked while he was at school. With a mother who’s a winemaker and a viticulturist father, Koen has always been involved in vintage one way or another. Even his arrival in the world in 2010 conveniently coincided with an end of vintage party. What’s his favourite thing about vintage? ‘Tasting mum’s grape juice before it gets spicy.’ As evening falls and the wineries light up, local legend d’Arry (Francis d’Arenberg Osborn OAM) is feeling reflective. I ask him what he likes best about vintage and hold my breath, waiting for some amazing tales and anecdotes from his decades in the industry. My pen is poised as he answers honestly: ‘My favourite thing about vintage is that I don’t have to do it anymore’. He goes on to talk of the apprehensiveness we all feel, the concern about getting it right and the all encompassing worry about the weather. d’Arry speaks of the relief once it starts, and the huge load off his mind once all is finished. So let’s toast a region that comes together each day and each night to create part of the lifeblood that sustains the Fleurieu Peninsula economy. Here’s to all who ride the vintage train into the wee hours of the night, as well as those who enjoy the product of their toils. Here’s cheers to all of you.

A place of trees Story by Petra de Mooy. Photography by Robert Geh.

Previous page: The wall console by Nick Randall was purchased at the Design Centre in Tasmania and the entryway was designed with the table in mind. Above: The materials and colour palette of the living room, dining room and kitchen take their cues from nature, with warm woods and earthy tones offset by a slick finish on the cabinets.

Building a new house adjacent to a heritage–listed gum tree has its complexities. That is the lesson-learned by Paul Henning and Jo Pike, when they bought a beautiful block of land on the high end of Willunga’s High Street. And the site isn’t just home to one such ancient specimen, indeed there are a few magnificent gums on the property. These majestic trees have soul and character of their own and form an important part of Willunga’s cultural landscape. The town’s name is believed by some to be derived from the Kaurna word Wiljaungga, meaning ‘a place of green trees’.

This gorgeous, peaceful parcel of land also has colonial heritage. It was originally part of a family farm, which over time was sliced up and sold off. Adjacent is Willunga’s original court house and gaol and across the road is the town’s first post office. I wonder if it’s coincidental that the old gaol was located next to the first local hotel the Old Bush Inn? Probably not. When Jo and Paul were looking for a rural retreat they had two prerequisites; it had to be a fairly short drive from their Torrensville home and it had to feel like the country. They wanted somewhere away from the demands of the city, where they could begin to relax towards retirement. When the block at the foot of Willunga Hill came up in 2012, they were intrigued. It offered stunning views all the way down to the ocean but was also conveniently located close to shops, cafes and amenities. Its proximity to the heritage-listed court house grounds meant there would be no chance of the views being impeded upon by new development. >

Jo explains to me that the land holds significance for a variety of reasons. She says it’s a sacred place for local Aboriginal people. Its big trees and proximity to a perennial stream made it a favourite camping spot. 23

Previous page: The first principle of the design was to have the stove in the middle of the kitchen island so that Jo can look out while cooking. The island follows the skewed angle of the room with an American Oak dining counter jutting out at one end. Above: The four hundred year old tree is complemented by cascading decks.

The four-hundred-year-old gum tree closest to Jo and Paul’s house has had a bit of a growth-spurt recently. Paul attributes it to the wet winter but Jo wonders if perhaps the tree is a bit happier with its new neighbours, who lovingly breathe life into this special place. But before they committed to buying, Jo and Paul needed assurance that something worthwhile could be built that embraced the constraints of this special site. The couple had been to a display village at Hayborough, near Port Elliot, and liked the feel of a South Coast Constructions’ home they saw. Jo met with the company’s designer Matt Parker to see what was possible. Matt quickly sketched a plan that kept the home perpendicular to the road, but skewed the back half. This cleverly moved the foundations away from the tree roots and also positioned the main living areas due north to capture the winter sun. ‘They wanted to ensure they had a sustainable home, so a lot of emphasis was placed on achieving a true northerly aspect and materials selection,’ says Matt. Among the environmentally–conscious choices were double–glazed windows and window and door tinting in the kitchen, dining and living areas. Paul and Jo were also keen to have the house meld with the landscape.‘

To be sympathetic to the adjacent court house without mimicking its style we chose a combination of stone and cladding on the exterior,’ says Matt. ‘We also used a combination of roof styles to create character.’ The finished product sits slightly high on the block, creating a type of ‘viewing platform’. In all other aspects though it is perfectly held by its environment, which considering the size of the build is, I’m told, a combination of ingenuity and good luck. Wide eaves on the north face with double glazing and cross ventilation via louvered windows, solar power and a large water storage capacity make the home energy efficient. Not all the design specifications are practical though. The original plan had to be changed to make the bedrooms a bit smaller, in order to expand the living space to accommodate a grand piano. Both Paul and Jo are classical musicians and hope to host small concerts in the space at some stage. >

Previous page: The interior palette reflects the exterior colours of the trees and landscape. It provides the perfect backdrop for the plethora of beautifully designed furniture and well considered art works. Above left: Jo Pike and Paul Henning enjoying the peace and the view of their new surrounds. Above right: The old gum behind the house, though dead, is also heritage listed as it forms part of the habitat for the amazing array of birds.

The house is perfectly held by its environment, which considering the size of the build is, I’m told, a combination of ingenuity and good luck. The living area opens to the east with a window looking out to one of the old gums. A series of decks built around the tree cascade down, leading to a native garden that’s still in its infancy. Already it’s a thoroughfare for rosellas, lorikeets and kookaburras as they swoop down from the gums for a drink or bath in the stream. Paul and Jo both appreciate the natural setting. ‘We feel part of the countryside,’ says Paul. ‘But we can still turn around and go out to a cafe. We enjoy the mixture and believe we get the best of both worlds.’ Jo works part time from home and had specific needs in terms of work space. ‘I find it a very peaceful place to work with all of the trees and the birds and the views,’ she says. ‘Walking into the main living room every morning takes your breath away no matter how many times you do it.’ The couple also likes to entertain, so the kitchen design had a fairly long wish-list. Impressively, Innovative Kitchens was able to meet all Jo and Paul’s needs. The first principle of the design was to have the stove in the middle of the kitchen island so that Jo can look out while cooking. The island follows the skewed angle of the room with an American Oak dining counter jutting out at one end. The cabinets have a dark autobody-like finish, offset by warm wood accents and contrasting white, with a lovely green splash back. The Spotted Gum floors extend seamlessly from the living area to the kitchen. The smallest details have been thought of and worked through, like the stove exhaust system which is via a stovetop vent, rather than a hanging hood, so as not to interrupt the open space. The walk-in pantry behind the kitchen is big enough to hide the dirty dishes in until

the next day when they’re entertaining, Jo tells me with a laugh. The cabinets hold secrets too, concealing a variety of different lighting options that can be altered to create mood or brighten a workspace. An appliance garage is another convenient feature, eliminating clutter. The interior palette reflects the exterior colours of the trees and landscape. It provides the perfect backdrop for the plethora of beautifully designed furniture and well considered art works. Many of the pieces have been bought from local galleries like Signal Point, Red Poles and Penny’s Hill. One eye-catching piece is the wallmounted entryway table, which looks a bit like a boat hull, only more voluptuous and curvy. ‘We found it at the Design Centre in Tasmania and kind of designed the entryway around it,’ says Jo. Although Paul and Jo still live part-time in Adelaide, they are becoming fond of the idea of spending more time in their Willunga residence. With its proximity to the beach and fine food and wine, it’s easy to understand why. ‘As you come over the hill from McLaren Vale it is very appealing with the rolling hills and big skies,’ says Paul. That view is a familiar and welcome sight for many Fleurieu Peninsula locals; a sign that home isn’t far. The four-hundred-year-old gum tree has put on a bit of a growth spurt since they house has been completed and though Paul cites the healthy winter rains of last year, Jo wonders if perhaps the tree is a bit happier with its new neighbours helping to breathe more life into this special place of trees.

A picture is worth a thousand words. 11 Commerce Cres Victor Harbor. Phone: 8552 2090 Email: info@innovativekitchens.com.au

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Want insurance that suits your needs? Whether its business, farm, personal or even fleet and commercial motor insurance, you can rely on Elders Insurance Southern Fleurieu in those times of trouble. Based in Victor Harbor, our local agent Sarah Somerville offers over 12 years experience in the insurance industry and believes strongly in providing her customers with the best possible service and advice. Growing up on the family farm gives Grant Stoeckel a good understanding of the challenges faced by rural and regional communities. Couple this with his experience in the insurance industry and he brings the best possible solution for your insurance needs. Whenever and wherever you need it we’ll be on hand to provide you with the best cover and advice. And in the event of a claim you will deal directly with us ensuring you receive personalised service. 11-13 Victoria St Victor Harbor SA 5211

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BALANCE The mind, body and soul. Closed Colon Hydrotherapy – Nutritional cleansing and detoxification for optimum digestive health through Body Balancing – supporting the mind, body and soul – We also offer colonoscopy preparations. Telephone 8381 9185 · 222 Old South Rd Reynella

FOOD & WINE

Nonnas and nonnos The recipes on these pages pay homage to the Italian migrants, who have so greatly enriched the cuisine of Australia. Each recipe has been handed to FLM with a great deal of pride and trust that it will be cooked with love and shared with friends. The current custodians of the recipes have shared with us their own stories. Each and every tale speaks of risk, transition and ultimately strength, resilience and a whole lot of heart. In the Fleurieu these early migrants found a familiar climate. Our hot, dry summers and cool, mild winters offered them the perfect weather for growing the food they loved; olives, grapes, tomatoes, almonds, garlic and herbs. ‘

Above: Three generations: Nonno Francesco, Silvana and Jim.

The Journey

Francesco Zerella shares his story with Esther Thorn. Photographs by Heidi Linehan.

As Amabile Zuzolo was preparing to leave her village in rural Italy for the distant shores of Australia, she tucked some basil seeds into her bra. The impulsive gesture was a wish for the future, that one day in her sun-scorched new home she would plant a garden and be surrounded once more by the perfume of basilico.

Francesco’s luck had changed. Within months he had his own business, mowing the lawns in Adelaide’s leafy green eastern suburbs. He bought a house and his family joined him there. The garden Amabile had hoped for flourished and their home was filled with the aromas of basil, tomato and garlic.

The young mother was on her way with her two children to meet her husband Francesco Zuzolo. Two years earlier, Francesco had fled an Italy ravaged by Mussolini. He’d boarded a ship, the Roma and had finally disembarked in Adelaide.

Nearly sixty years on, Francesco and I are in the boardroom of the new Zerella Wines Cellar Door on Olivers Road at McLaren Vale. It’s owned by Francesco’s grandson Jim Zerella. The cellar door has just opened and everything is shiny new. But all around us are tributes to the family’s past; an old truck parked on the lawn, a hessian bag for packing fruit. In front of us is a bottle of the awardwinning winery’s Nero d’Avola. It’s named ‘La Gita’ – The Journey. The label is a copy of Francesco’s identity card. In the photo a twenty-seven-year-old Francesco stares out, handsome, with his jaw set and his gaze focussed on the future.

Life in the promised land was tough. Francesco struggled to get work and ended up doing back-breaking labour or working on production lines. ‘Everyone working on the line sick or depressed,’ he tells me in his strong Italian accent. Francesco wasn’t one to complain. He’d always worked. His childhood memories centre around guarding the tobacco crop on his family’s marginal farm or walking for three weeks just to buy salt. So in Australia, Francesco worked hard. So hard that he was noticed by a German man who owned a gardening business. He offered Francesco a job.

Francesco sits across from me, now ninety, with a lifetime of memories creased into his cheeks. His daughter Silvana is with us and her son Jim. Amabile has passed away, but the family ties remain strong. The Wild Hare with Cavatelli, Amabile’s favourite dish, is still regularly cooked. The dish is a celebration. Not just of Amabile, but of the journey she and so many other Italian women made to a distant land, bringing with them a rich food tradition and a heartfelt way of life.

Wild Hare with Cavatelli Amabile and Silvana’s Homemade Cavatelli Pasta Dough Serves: 4 Ingredients 4 cups of all-purpose flour 1½ cups water at room temperature 1 teaspoon salt extra flour for rolling Method 1. Place the flour on a wooden board and make a well. 2. Add water and salt in the center of the well. 3. Using a fork start incorporating the water into the flour until the centre of the flour becomes a thick batter. 4. With the help of a dough scraper incorporate the remaining flour (it may appear to you that there isn’t enough water but keep kneading - it comes together as if by magic). 5. Knead for 8-10 minutes or until dough is smooth and elastic. 6. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and let rest for at least 1 hour at room temperature (I usually place a tea towel over the top). 7. Cut the dough into 4 pieces. 8. Roll out each piece about ⅓ of a centimetre thick. (If the dough is not easy to roll out, let it rest for another hour or so). Flour board and rolling pin. 9. Cut the dough into 2cm strips and then cut each strip into ½cm - 1cm pieces. 10. Using your index finger, apply a gentle pressure on the dough, dragging it toward you. There should be a slight curl formed. 11. Place cavatelli on large baking sheets, which have been dusted with flour in a single layer, not touching each other. 12. If using immediately, drop in a large pot of salted boiling water for a few minutes. The cavatelli are done when they float to the top (try to shake off as much as the flour as possible before boiling them). Taste to make sure they are cooked to your liking. 13. Drop the cavatelli into a large pot of salted boiling water. The pasta is done when they float to the top. Notes You can substitute the all purpose flour with bread flour, or a mixture of the two.

Wild Hare sauce Ingredients 1 hare cut into small portions 2 bay leaves 1 lemon cut in half Salt and pepper 1 large brown onion 2 cloves garlic crushed 3 tablespoons chopped parsley Fresh basil leaves 6 tablespoons olive oil I litre of passata (or 800g tinned chopped tomatoes) ½ litre of water Grated pecorino cheese to garnish Method Place hare portions in a pot with enough water to cover, add lemon halves and soak overnight. This will take away a lot of the unpleasant aromas that sometimes come with game meat. Rinse the hare portions under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Set aside. Heat olive oil in a heavy-based, large saucepan with chopped onion and garlic on medium heat. Brown the hare pieces while not letting them touch each other as they brown. Season with salt and pepper them as they cook and add bay leaves. When the hare has been browned add passata or tinned chopped tomatoes. Then add water and stir. Add chopped parsley and a few more bay leaves. Bring to the boil. Mix well and reduce heat to a simmer, with only a few bubbles coming up to the surface. Cover and allow to cook for 2 ½ - 3 hours stirring occasionally. When the meat is tender and the sauce has thickened remove the bay leaves and discard. Serve with homemade cavatelli (or with pasta of your choice). >

Above: Enzo and Zofka (Sonia) at ‘Our Place’.

A life less ordinary Enzo Clappis shares his story with Esther Thorn. Photographs by Heidi Linehan.

Enzo Clappis is on a mission to find olive oil. His seventeen-year old brother has promised to wash the dishes if Enzo makes him a salad. The only problem is that there’s no olive oil for the dressing and Enzo’s been told that the only place to buy it is at a chemist shop. He finds this strange, but then lots of things in this new country are strange to him. So he squares his shoulders and walks into Birks Chemist on what’s now Rundle Mall. There Enzo sees the golden liquid in a bottle labelled Faulding. But the bottle is very small, with not nearly enough oil to make a decent dressing. He asks the chemist if it comes in a bigger size and is told that it doesn’t. So he tells the chemist he needs three dozen bottles. At this, the chemist looks horrified and tells Enzo that he has to see a doctor before taking such a large amount of laxative. That was Adelaide in 1951, where Enzo and his brother had fled from Northern Italy to escape the communists. As I sit across from a now eighty-four-year-old Enzo Clappis, the story now seems implausible, for many reasons and not least because Enzo is now widely considered the grandfather of Italian cuisine in South Australia. We’re at the popular restaurant ‘Our Place’, on top of Willunga Hill. It’s owned by Enzo’s youngest son Andy Clappis. I’m captivated by

Enzo’s story. It’s not just what he’s saying, it’s how he’s telling it; his hands move quickly emphasising points and re-enacting emotion. Enzo cooks the way he talks; adding a dash of seasoning, a splash of olive oil, a quick stir of the pot. He doesn’t use recipes or scales. Balancing flavours is instinctive. It’s his ability in the kitchen, mixed with his charm, quick-wit and intelligence that has made him one of Adelaide’s most loved chefs. His glass is always half-full and, perhaps because of this positivity, he’s lived a charmed life. Enzo’s been married for sixty-five years to Zofka (Sonia), a Slovenian refugee three years his senior, whom he met on the boat to Australia. She’d been living in Italy with her family and shared Enzo’s passion for cooking. Since arriving in Adelaide, the couple has owned three highly successful restaurants. They have carved out a life doing what they love; cooking together. Even now, Enzo and Zofka spend most days in the kitchen at ‘Our Place’. Indeed, Enzo is there every day. He and his son, Andy, have been cooking together since Andy was nineyears old. ‘Andy used to be cheap labour for me and now I’m cheap labour for him,’ Enzo laughs. Together they take great joy in cooking Italian cuisine using the Fleurieu’s finest produce. The Risi e Bisi is an example of the restaurant’s simple dishes, cooked with skill and love. Often former patrons of Enzo’s restaurants will come for a meal at ‘Our Place’. They greet Enzo like a family member, embracing him and asking him to pull up a chair at their table. Enzo always does. He is proud of the friendships he’s formed along the way and the joy he’s infused into people’s lives. ‘If I look back on my life,’ Enzo says. ‘What else I want?’

Risi e bisi (Rice and beans) Serves 6 Ingredients 1kg fresh peas or frozen baby peas 200g Italian Arborio rice (traditionally used), can be substituted by any other rice. 60g butter 200g pancetta, prosciutto, bacon or speck 40g parsley (chopped) 2 to 2.5L brodo (we make our own very light turkey broth using Free Range Turkeys) 4tbs extra virgin olive oil 1Â˝ large onions (diced) Freshly grated parmigiana cheese

Method Heat brodo/broth to a gentle simmer Meanwhile dice onion and add to heavy based pan/pot with 2tbs (half the olive oil). Sweat onions for a few minutes until softened and very lightly browned. Add pancetta, allow to slightly brown Add rice (we prepare this dish like risotto by allowing the rice to lightly toast) Add all the hot broth into the rice all at once, stirring at times Halfway through cooking rice add peas (adding close to the end will ensure your peas remain vibrant and green). Cook rice until al dente â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;on the toothâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; or slightly undercooked to allow time for serving. Variations This dish is very versatile. It can be adapted for vegetarians (by eliminating the pancetta) or vegans (by substituting butter for more oil). To enjoy as a soup add more brodo/broth, or for a hearty meal add more rice, for a little twist add a perfect fried sunny side egg (and break into the gooey yolk on your first spoonful). >

Salt and pepper to taste

FOOD & WINE

Above: Anna Mitolo in her garden. Next page: All of us agree that this is delicious!

For the love of family Anna Mitolo shares her story with Esther Thorn. Photographs by Heidi Linehan.

There are two roosters crowing when I walk into Anna Mitolo’s suburban back yard. ‘I should kill one,’ she tells me in broken English. ‘But I can’t, they too beautiful.’ She takes me to see them. We walk past olive trees dripping with black fruit, past the persimmon, the mandarin tree, the nectarine and finally the herb garden which is filled with the heady scent of basil and rosemary. Right at the back of Anna’s garden is the chook shed and there are the two handsome roosters, their plumage gleaming in the autumn sun. Anna will eventually kill one and make a stock from its carcass, because she is a woman who doesn’t waste anything. The eightysix-year-old has experienced extreme hardship, growing up in a tiny village in central Italy in the 1940s. Her mother died when she was a baby and her father died when she was nineteen. When Anna’s own child passed away at just three-years old, she sold a walnut tree on her mother’s property and used the money to buy new clothes for her two other children. Then they boarded a boat bound for Adelaide, where her husband had immigrated to a couple of years earlier. At first Anna and her young family lived in shed behind a Catholic church. They had another baby and then another and another. Both parents worked long days but family dinners were always a focal 34

point. At the end of an exhausting day, Anna and her husband would cook together and then the whole family would sit down to eat. ‘Mum can make a bone into a meal,’ says Anna’s son Vito. ‘I remember her collecting wild grasses and transforming them into something delicious.’ Anna’s love of cooking has been passed down through generations of the Mitolo family. Vito bakes bread and has a specially designed charcuterie fridge because Adelaide’s climate isn’t conducive to curing meats. Anna’s grandson Tony Mitolo has recently opened his own restaurant Pizzateca at McLaren Vale. He’d been living in New York enjoying a stellar music career as the drummer for electronic music band Empire of the Sun. ‘I got a call from Tony and he said ‘Dad, I’m coming back’,’ says Vito. ‘I asked him where he was going to live and he said ‘the farm’.’ Weeks later Tony was back on the family property in McLaren Vale and, in true Mitolo spirit, he set about establishing a restaurant renowned for its handmade pizzas. The business has given the family a new sense of purpose. Each week Vito bakes twenty-five loaves of bread and Anna makes four huge trays of tiramisu for the restaurant. I am privy to Anna’s expertise as I am offered a generous portion of the decadent dessert. It tastes of warmth and generosity and of sacrifices made by one generation in the hope of a better life for their family in the future.

Nonna’s Tiramisu Serves 6 Most often Tiramisu is made by feel; a splash of Marsala and a dollop of mascarpone. Anna Mitolo’s recipe is no exception. We’re told she does it all ‘by eye, the lock of a finger and the heart’. We’ve incorporated a few measurements into her recipe to make it a little more accessible. Ingredients 3 egg whites 570ml cream 250g mascarpone 5tbs golden caster sugar 75ml marsala 300ml strong coffee (from macchinetta says Nonna) 175g pack of sponge finger biscuits

Method 1. Soak biscuits in a mixture of coffee and Marsala wine. 2. In a large bowl stiffly beat egg whites and then slowly whisk in cream, mascarpone, marsala and sugar. 3. Continue whisking until the cream and mascarpone have completely combined and the mixture has formed the consistency of whipped cream. 4. Once sponge biscuits are nicely soaked but not soggy, layer them into the dish until half the biscuits have been used. 5. Spread over half of the creamy mixture. 6. Repeat the layers, finishing with the creamy layer. 7. Cover and chill for a few hours or overnight. This can now be kept in the fridge for up to two days. 8. Before serving, dust with cocoa powder. 9. Tutti fatto e mangia!

2 tsp dark bitter cocoa powder 35

The gods of small things Story by Nina Keath. Photographs by Robert Geh.

Previous page: Artwork titled: ‘Beatrice’ by Chris DeRosa. Digital inkjet print, etching, lino print, pigment stain, perforated magnani paper, pu foam. Above: Owner Sarah Taylor at her shop ‘South Seas Trading’ in Port Elliot.

Books line every wall, they teeter on tables and create towers on the floor. It is light and airy, with large windows casting abundant natural light across a skilfully selected range of local art, ceramics, jewellery, vintage–wares, fashion, garden items … and more books! Sarah Taylor and Mark Laurie met when they stepped into a lift together at university. While they agree it wasn’t the most romantic setting, it turned out to be a fitting precursor to a life shared creating joyful abundance from small spaces. Soon after the couple married, Mark took up surfing and the newlyweds embarked on regular weekend trips to Middleton, where

Mark surfed while Sarah walked or read. However, after more than a few rainy weekends, Sarah found herself struggling to foster much ‘joyful abundance’ whilst confined to the car. So Mark and Sarah invested in a slightly larger ‘small space’; an old asbestos shack in Middleton, where they could base themselves on weekends. When work took Mark and Sarah to Papua New Guinea, they bought another small space – this time a boat from which they dived, surfed and read in every spare moment. Their time in PNG confirmed their love for tight–knit community living and, upon returning to Australia, they moved permanently to Middleton. The move prompted Sarah to break with a career in law to fulfil her lifelong dream of owning a bookshop. After scouring the area, the couple purchased a charming early 1900s era red-brick building on North Terrace at Port Elliot. True to form, it was far from spacious. >

Above: The shop is full of interesting curios and design pieces.

Sarah wanted to create a warm and inviting place, where people could drink coffee, talk about books and read to their heart’s content. These are all things she’s been most happy to exemplify. ‘The best thing about having a bookshop is seeing the books, choosing the books, reading the books and talking about them,’ Sarah says. So successful has she been at pursuing and articulating her vision for South Seas Books that people regularly travel long distances to experience her creation. Indeed, my Adelaide–based and literature–loving sister–in–law was so passionate about the shop that she bought me a voucher to motivate me to make the journey south. I wasn’t disappointed and South Seas Books has become a regular destination for me to find gifts, inspiration or solace.

A large part of Sarah’s time is now dedicated to book–selection and she is committed to supporting local authors. The result is a shop filled to capacity with an appealingly idiosyncratic assortment of books on every conceivable topic. Books line every wall, they teeter on tables and create towers on the floor. Tucked in between the books is a surprisingly large array of gifts, vintage–wares, jewellery and art. The sheer volume of goods could be chaotic and overwhelming in such a small space, but instead each object is artfully arranged, creating an inviting and alluring place. The coffee machine, ambient lighting and Scandinavian leather couches help to create the warm atmosphere. But what really gives the shop its unique appeal is the books and the imaginative ways in which they are displayed.

Top left: Delicate slip cast porcelain pieces by Lesa Farrant. Top right: Ceramic art in the foreground by Gerry Wedd. Bottom left and right: The new shop is full of charm and carries an array of interesting products including art, craft, books, clothing and homewares.

Sarah says she feels fortunate to have staff with distinctive talents and capabilities, who support and enhance her work. In particular, her neighbour and local printmaker Chris De Rosa has worked in the bookshop since it opened and used her artistic sensibility to help curate the space. The creative partnership between Sarah and Chris has recently evolved, with Sarah and Mark purchasing a property directly across the road from the bookshop. The decision was partly to expand the South Seas business and partly to rescue from demolition a disused 1960s Police Station. With her strong connections in the art world, Chris is now manager of South Seas Trading, a design–focussed gift shop that supports South Australian artists. During my visit, I observe Chris and another staff–member invest time and evident pleasure in choosing the placement of a

single flower in one of their displays; a refreshing and light–hearted prioritising of beauty and attention to detail. I’m certain this is a major ingredient in the success of the South Seas brand. At first glance, the new shop seems to buck Sarah and Mark’s trend of squeezing into small spaces. It is light and airy, with large windows casting abundant natural light across a skilfully selected range of local art, ceramics, jewellery, vintage-wares, fashion, garden items ... and more books! ‘We didn’t intend to have many books here, just a few on art, but they keep migrating across the road,’ laughs Sarah. >

Above left: Ceramic art by Phil Hart, Gerry Wedd and others is a focus and is complemented by lovely textiles and curios. Above right: The new shop is bathed in beautiful natural light and is full of interesting objects – a great place to while away some down time.

Having successfully opened a bookshop in a small country town at a time when digital book sales were on the rise and bookshops around the country closing, I have no doubt that whatever they put their hands to will succeed.

Leading from the main shop is a generously proportioned, yet–to–be renovated, room and kitchen offering even more space and potential. Mark and Sarah are still dreaming up ideas; exhibition space? Artist’s studio? My vote is for both, and a café would be nice too! Having successfully opened a bookshop in a small country town at a time when digital book sales were on the rise and bookshops around the country closing, I have no doubt that whatever they put their hands to will succeed. I must, however, admit to feeling unreasonably bereft when Mark and Sarah reveal that, in addition to all the glorious spaciousness of the new shop, they will soon begin a Max Pritchard designed extension of the bookshop to provide … more space! On top of this, I learn that when their original asbestos shack began to collapse, the renowned architect also designed them a two-storey home, which they now inhabit most happily. Anyone familiar with Pritchard’s work will will know that cosy and small are two words not commonly associated with his designs! My faith in the natural order of things is restored, however, when Mark and Sarah take me on a tour of the old police holding cells at the back of the new shop. Their eyes light up as they discuss the promise of these strangely appealing and very small spaces. As I step inside, taking in all the possibilities, it occurs to me that the dimensions are not at all dissimilar to those of a lift, where their story first began.

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BOOKS & WORDS

Book Reviews by Mark Laurie.

See What I Have Done by Sarah Schmidt

Published by Hachette ISBN 9780733636882 $32.99 Our fascination with violent crime seems to find its zenith with the particular brutality of axe murders, all the more so when the perpetrator may be a young woman. The unsolved Borden murders of the 1890s in Fall River, Massachusetts and the associated trial and acquittal of Lizzie Borden for the savage deaths of her father and stepmother has consistently enthralled writers and filmmakers. It was even memorialised in a macabre children’s rhyme: Lizzie Borden took an axe And gave her mother forty whacks. When she saw what she had done, She gave her father forty-one. Extending the ‘true crime’ genre exemplified by Hannah Kent’s Burial Rites,

Sarah Schmidt’s gripping debut novel reimagines the murders and the context in which they took place. The story is told through the eyes and voices of Lizzie, her elder sister Emma, the Irish housekeeper Brigid who was to give evidence at the trial, and Benjamin, a fictional drifter with links to the family and a propensity for trouble. A picture emerges from inside a dysfunctional household living regimented, claustrophobic lives under a heavy-handed authoritarian patriarchy. Fully exploiting fiction’s freedoms, deftly weaving in and out of that zone of uncertainty which able writers employ, Schmidt has crafted a captivating narrative. Treading a narrow line between sympathy and repugnance, sorrow and dread, we are treated to the ambiguities and contradictions available from long-dead characters in an unknown past. In doing so, we are confronted with the complexities and uncertainties of the human condition, and with the realisation that for all our desire for resolution, we are drawn irresistibly to the unknown and unknowable. Mysterious and disturbing, this story is all the better for this retelling.

The Pleasures of Leisure by Robert Dessaix

Published by Penguin Random House ISBN 978 014378004 5 $29.99 The media cycle is filled with references to the ever more rapid pace within which our lives are lived, subject to inevitable and irresistibly hastening forces of change. We’ve all had conversations in which we discuss how busy we are, to situate ourselves within this world, perhaps intended to show we are keeping up and not being spun off. Robert Dessaix’s latest book suggests that we pull back from this centrifugal force and seek a return to the more reflective, leisured and civilised lives we are increasingly trading

away for labour-saving devices and wealth. As he sees it, time should not be money as the oft-quoted maxim would have us believe. Rather, it should be a dimension for the expression of our humanity and the realisation of happiness. The book leads us through the abundance of leisurely choices available if we were to find time, broadly characterised as loafing, nesting and play. The author asks us to re-think the place and nature of such things as reading, gardening, strolling, sport and sex. This is certainly not an earnest self-help guide, containing references as diverse as the Roman philosopher, Seneca and American rapper L’il Bow Wow, interspersed with Dessaix’s own reflections. For him, for example, jogging is a ‘depressing sight, a presumptuous invasion of public space.’ Exhibiting an indolent love of language, this highly regarded essayist has produced an amusing, thoughtful and literary mirror within which we might see ourselves, both as who we are and who we might be.

South

by Merlin Coverley Published by Oldcastle Books ISBN 9781843447252 $26.99 Long after the age of exploration has expired and our world’s spherical limits have been thoroughly traversed and mapped, Merlin Coverley records our northern origins and begins his own exploration of the South. Rather than merely geographic, his is an examination of how the South has been imagined and represented as an idea; whether as a void or fear-filled expanse, a space for freedom and expression of potential, or a paradise to be found and perhaps ultimately lost. Above all, he situates the South as a place waiting to be described and transfigured (although never assimilated) by the narratives of those from the North, whether they be explorers, ‘speculative theorists’, writers, artists or tourists. Taking in Southern Europe, the Pacific’s south seas, deep into the Americas and the other, [Ant]arctic pole, we are introduced

to a wonderful array of visions and perspectives. Through the works and lives of such luminous talents as Melville, Lawrence, Goethe, Kerouac, Coleridge and J.G. Ballard and along with such theoretical oddities as Symmes’ hollow earth and Hitler’s supposed escape, the author showcases the breadth of human imagination. However, the fascination with which we explore such imaginaries and representations is matched by an increased understanding of how they are realised in a South which is a state-of-mind as much as it is a direction and destination. Food for both pleasure and thought.

Wedding Bush Road by David Francis

Published by Xoum Publishing ISBN 9781925143331 $29.99

of observation within its pages and the depth to which he pursues its themes. In beautifully constructed, often staccato sentences, hints of past and meaning emerge to create a compelling story strive together to survive in a hostile world, a friendship blossoms. In simple, poetic language, employing luminous descriptive powers, the author narrates their journey, their joys in coming to understand each other within all of its perilousness and uncertainty. Nostalgic but never sentimental, this novel revisits the myths and dualities of the American frontier at a time when its end is in sight, its scope for freedom, adventure and heroism under siege from ‘all the spilling images of a rumoured world weighted with railroads and modernity’. This short and beautiful book demonstrates the enduring power of this frontier and its timelessness as a space for discovery and wonder.

Set between a decaying horse stud in Victoria’s east and modern-day California, this book inverts Australia’s traditional place as the colonial new world and explores how we define and are defined by the places we inhabit. Australia here is a place which represents the past, a repository of memory for Daniel Rawson as he returns to his ancestral home from the new life he has made as a lawyer in Los Angeles. He is confronted by what he has left behind and why, as all the interwoven complexities of family, memory and history rise up to meet him. While the contest for the land around which the plot is centred plays out between all of those who lay claim to it, it also becomes a contest of self for Daniel; between who he has been and about who he will become. The Wedding Bush is native to Australia, a screening plant used for hedges. It can be seen here as a metaphor for the glossy veneer we present over the complexities and ambiguities of who we are. David Francis returned to Australia from his Los Angeles home for the 2017 Adelaide Writers’ Week event and spoke entertainingly about some of the autobiographical elements of this novel. The lightness and ease of his manner during the event belies the level

FOOD & WINE

Uncorked Wine reviews by Gill Gordon-Smith CSW FWS

There’s change in the air; the nights are cooling down and the vintage workers have finished harvest. The region is preparing to shed its autumnal splendor for the muted tones of winter. Top Note Block 4 Shiraz 2014 As Peters Creek Road snakes towards Kuitpo, the temperature drops and altitude can make a big difference to the style of wine that ends up in your glass. This bright, ruby-red shiraz, hums with notes of red and black berry fruits, cherry, mulberry and subtle potpourri spiced florals. In the mouth it slides and slips softly through dried plums and berries. Perfect with winter pies, butter and seasonal vegetables. I tasted this wine over two days and it was just as delicious on the second. Altitude: The temperature drops the higher you rise above sea level. This makes things a little cooler for growing grapes and means that sugars produced by the grape are potentially lower, and have higher acidity. Lower temperatures and cooler nights often produce more perfumed aromatics and lower alcohols. Adult homework – compare two bottles of shiraz from different parts of the Fleurieu. Big Easy Radio 2016 ‘Forget Babylon’ Touriga/ Malbec Just looking at the bottle of Aldinga based duo Matt Head and Justin Lane’s freshly launched label Big Easy Radio is almost enough to make me want to open it. But it’s what’s inside that counts for this wine lover. I prepare to go on a sensory journey with this blend of the premium Portuguese variety Touriga Nacional partnered with Malbec, a native to south west France. In the glass the wine has a regal, purple tint and makes me think of dark chocolate, Cherry Ripe, soft black fruits and violets, with an earthy, prune and tobacco lick. It has the comfort of Ugg Boots, warm fires, lamb shanks, eggplant moussaka and hard cheeses; the perfect winter wine! Touriga Nacional is the premium grape used to make port, the long-lived and much-loved fortified wine that Portugal is famous for. Malbec is grown widely in Argentina. The country produces about seventy-five per cent of the world’s Malbec. It was brought from Bordeaux to Argentina around 1852 and is now the signature black grape.

Kimbolton Langhorne Creek ‘Fig Tree’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Beautiful wines are made in the vineyard, and in Langhorne Creek the Case family has been growing some of the best fruit around since the 1940s. But the family also produces exceptional wines under its own Kimbolton label, from classic grapes like Cabernet to of-the-moment varieties like Montepulciano. This particular wine comes from a block of Cabernet vines watched over by a onehundred year old fig tree. It is deep, dark ruby in the glass and has a waft of dark cocoa, blackberry, crushed leaves and earth aromas. Concentrated, ripe black fruits, cherries, mulberry and dark minty chocolate flavours fill your mouth, framed by fine, chalky tannins. It’s reminiscent of biting into a wine-filled ‘adults-only’ chocolate. Cabernet Sauvignon is a classic grape variety from the Bordeaux region in France that has happily been transported around the globe. It’s grown everywhere from Australia to Italy and does best in a moderate to warm climate. Dudley 2016 Cape Hart Riesling Kangaroo Island The Howard family has farmed wool and beef on Kangaroo Island for generations. In 1994 they decided the limestone rich soils and cooler climate were also perfect for growing grapes. Now fifth generation Howard, Brodie focuses on producing handmade, vibrant wines with provenance. His 2016 Riesling is a pale, lemony, bright wine, with fresh and lifted aromas of citrus and minerally lime juice, interwoven with gentle floral notes, with a light saline character and chalky finish. Riesling is one of the varieties I drink year round, in all its styles. It’s perfect for cutting through creamy sauces, with pork and is so good with seafood. This wine makes me want to eat King George Whiting with a bready, herby crust, or copious amounts of squid pan-fried in butter. Riesling originates in Germany and can be made in various styles, from bone-dry to lusciously sweet.

Gill is the owner of Fall From Grace wine-education-tasting, which is based in Aldinga, nestled between Rosey’s and Miss Gladys on Sea. Gill is also a Mclaren Vale Ambassador. 44

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One of the region’s first monuments to local food and wine, it’s looking better than ever. Mary Taylor, InDaily

No rules, no ego, something for all tastes. That’s the Salopian way. Rated Two Forks. Simon Wilkinson, The Advertiser

The Salopian Inn had me thinking… Why can’t more restaurants be like this? John Lethlean, The Australian

Karena's food is fresh and local, aided by a half acre garden she is tending. Maggie Beer

The McLaren Vale wine region is now officially Australia’s gin central. Max Allen, The Australian

www.salopian.com.au Phone (08) 8323 8769 Open seven days for lunch plus dinner Thursday to Saturday

PENINSULA PEOPLE

TRAILBLAZERS: Zannie Flanagan meets

The accidental restaurateur Photograph by Angela Lisman.

On first meeting Ros Miller it’s easy to imagine she’s been in the hospitality business forever. But her debut into the industry was fairly recent, and more accidental than planned. Ros is the owner and operator of Red Poles, a popular and successful business, comprising a restaurant, cellar door, art gallery and a bed and breakfast located on McMurtrie Road in the heart of McLaren Vale. In 2005 the formally trained mixed media artist, began looking for a place to start an art business. ‘You know, somewhere you could take art classes and have coffee and a piece of cake,’ she explains. Full of enthusiasm for her new venture, Ros approached a local real estate agent, who suggested she might like to have a look at a property being used to store wine, that had once operated as a cafe and cellar door. The property turned out to be one of the locations her art group had visited on painting trips years before, so she knew it would be ideal. Ros set about renaming and branding the venue as Red Poles. However, after a few months she began to realise that coffee, cake and art classes were not going to pay the bills. Not one to give up, Ros reinvented Red Poles as a fully fledged restaurant and wedding venue, with accompanying accommodation and a small art gallery. ‘Wow was that a steep learning curve,’ says Ros laughing at her inexperience. ‘There was no curve to it really, just a vertical line!’ After surviving those early years, Ros focused her irrepressible creative energies outwards. Collaborating with other gallery owners in the region, she initiated the development of an art trail. ‘The original trail started with just nineteen artists and grew to include over a hundred participating venues,’ she says. The trail has since been incorporated into the Fleurieu Arts and Culture Guide, which is now produced by Fleurieu Peninsula Tourism with help from the South Australian Tourism Commission.

Closer to home, Ros worked with neighbouring businesses to spearhead the development of the McMurtrie Mile, a tourism initiative that takes visitors on a self–guided journey visiting the food, wine and art destinations dotted along the iconic road. In 2010, after a couple of years as a board member helping to develop tourism across the region, Ros was elected Chair of Fleurieu Peninsula Tourism; a position she still holds. But just as it seemed things were going smoothly for Ros, life threw at her one of the greatest challenges she would ever face. While on a well–earned vacation in Alaska in August 2011, Ros suffered a freak accident. She was a passenger on a small boat tour, that had promised an up-close look at a glacier. The boat ventured too close to the glacier and when a piece of ice carved off into the water, an ice shard was hurled into the boat. It landed with tremendous force right where Ros was standing, smashing her femur. Unbelievably the boat wasn’t equipped for such a dramatic and potentially deadly accident. There was no basic emergency medical kit and the crew was unable to contact emergency services. Ros had to endure an interminable six–hour journey before she received medical treatment. She underwent an operation at a hospital in the port of Juneau and had to have an artificial femur fitted into her shattered leg. Ros was then medevaced back to Australia to undergo further surgery and intensive rehabilitation. Miraculously, at the end of September, less than two months after the accident, Ros went back to part–time work in her wheelchair and resumed full–time work the following February. After hearing this story, I’m not surprised Ros has made such a success of her business. To recover from such trauma demands courage, determination and an incredibly optimistic attitude. These character traits are evident in everything Ros turns her hand to, but are perhaps most obvious in her passion for the future of tourism in the Fleurieu Peninsula. ‘Our region is made up of hundreds of small businesses and tourism is a big employer,’ she says. ‘By collaborating and supporting each other we can make our businesses sustainable well into the future. This region has something for everyone. We have to work together to make the Fleurieu Region and the rest of SA one of the Country’s ‘must see’ destinations.’

Taken an amazing photo on the Fleurieu lately? Send us an email or upload it to our Facebook page and you could see your handiwork in print. Each issue weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll choose an image to publish right here in the pages of FLM: facebook.com/FleurieuLivingMagazine. This photo was taken from the Granite Island end of The Causeway at Victor Harbor by FLM reader Ben Kelly. He set up a tripod on the rocks to catch the water coming in and out.

Magic on your doorstep! Just 45 minutes from Adelaide, the Fleurieu Peninsula offers a tapestry of experiences showcasing the best of South Australia, including regional flavours and stunning scenery. Visit Fleurieu Peninsula at www.fleurieupeninsula.com.au

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The garden of earthly delights Story by Winnie Pelz. Photographs by Heidi Linehan.

Previous page: Eat your greens. Above: Sebastian delicately tries to avoid stomping on the vegetables ... most of the time.

I’m greeted by a very young boy with a very serious face when I arrive at Karena Armstrong’s garden. ‘Hi, I’m Winnie and I’m here to meet your Mum,’ I venture. ‘I’m Fletcher and Mum’s not here yet, but I’ll take you to meet the chickens’ is the reply. The chickens are introduced in the same earnest manner: Timmy, Sophie, Daisy and Black Skull (aka Egg Buster). At one end of the garden older brother Harry is demonstrating a long bamboo stick with a tomato stuck on the end. He explains that he’s strength-testing the chickens’ beaks with this piece of apparatus: the explosion of tomato is proportionate to the strength of the beak. It becomes very clear that, apart from their egg-laying and garden weeding roles, these chickens are integral members of the family. The garden, in which this early physics lesson is playing out, is no ordinary backyard; it is the organic kitchen garden for the much acclaimed restaurant the Salopian Inn. The boys’ mother, Karena Armstrong, calls herself the Inn’s Managing Director of Culinary Delights. When she couldn’t find the heirloom varieties of vegetables she wanted for her ‘culinary delights’, she decided to grow them herself. That was three years ago. Karena has a deep understanding of, and belief in, an integrated, organic lifestyle. Her commitment to the highest standards of health and wellbeing is central to her business philosophy. She knows that how food is produced is just as important as how it’s prepared and presented.

Karena grew up at Moana with a mother whom she describes as an ‘awesome’ gardener. Her mum was part of the 70s generation, who developed a serious interest in caring for the environment. With pride Karena points out that her three sons, ten-year-old Harry, Sebastian 8, and Fletcher 6, are already demonstrating an exceptional level of awareness and understanding gained from growing up with a kitchen garden. The garden was begun in the winter of 2014 with a two-hundredand-thirty square metre patch of bare clay earth, exposed to the wind. The first permanent fixture was the henhouse, known as the Googenheim. Built entirely from recycled ‘stuff’, it’s now affectionately described as an exercise in art therapy. The four other chooks, Malinka, Lonika, Eva and Louise strut their stuff happily in their arty monument. Since that winter, the garden has grown to three-hundred square metres and has become known as Maddie’s Garden. Like Karena, its namesake and caretaker Maddie Aird is a dreamer. Also like Karena, she has an extraordinary range of practical skills and boundless energy. Versatility and hard work take on new meanings when you meet these two young women. Maddie was studying to become a paramedic when the opportunity arose to work with Karena. Working in the open air was too tempting and her studies morphed into a Certificate in Horticulture at Urrbrae. ‘It was a big investment by Karena in me to say, ‘Hey, give it a go’,’ Maddie tells me. ‘We’ve been growing a garden, but it has also been growing me; in confidence and in a new a direction in life. It has been really grounding.’ >

Karena Armstrong (above left) and Maddie Aird (above right) have worked hard to create their kitchen garden – and the vegetables of their labour are abundant.

Maddie now balances her work in the garden with being a mother to one-year-old Banjo, who spends quite a bit of time being carried in a sling, while his mum tends the crops. ‘In terms of lifestyle it is incredible; particularly as a new mum,’ says Maddie. ‘I usually have Banjo on my back and Karena’s family are like my family now so BOOM. It is very special.’ Under Maddie’s gentle touch, the garden now produces almost all of the restaurant’s vegetables and herbs. The crops are rotated around summer and winter, with an additional planting of root vegetables in autumn and spring. When there is the inevitable glut of tomatoes or zucchinis, pickling and jam-making skills are exercised. The restaurant kitchen makes all of its own sauces, chutneys and relishes, as-well-as specialities, such as fermented green tomatoes. An extensive range of leaf and root vegetables is grown for the menu: in summer there are lettuces, rockets and mustard greens; peppers and chillies; up to fifteen different kinds of heirloom tomatoes; zucchinis and trombochinis; tomatillos, eggplants, okra, cucumbers and pumpkins. Winter brings an abundance of beans, cabbages, 52

kale, broccoli, beetroot and carrots. And there are herbs and Asian greens: Thai basil, water spinach, pak choy and bok choy, spring onions and garlic, parsleys and oregano. Fruit trees have been planted around the boundary of the garden, which in time will produce loquats, apricots, plums, cherries, peaches and pears. There’s also an avocado tree and a pomegranate. A threelevel beehive, which has been in place only since last November, produced twelve kilograms of honey in its first harvesting. But considering the restaurant kitchen uses three kilograms of honey each fortnight, the bees won’t have time to rest. Nothing goes to waste. Food that isn’t eaten by humans or chooks is composted or used for mulch. In three years, the soil improvement is evident and the garden is increasing in abundance and quality. Seed is now being collected from surplus produce and will be used for the next cycle of growing. Currently however, Di Bickford, who runs Bickley Vale Organics in McLaren Vale and is a legend in her own lifetime, still propagates and provides most of the seedlings. One of Karena’s proudest achievements is that the menu at the

Top left: The chooks are loving a late autumn harvest of sunflower seeds but Harry makes them work for it Above right: The food miles are so short from the garden to the restaurant they could almost be delivered by bike. Bottom: Chook emerging from the Googenheim.

Salopian Inn is now dictated by the garden and its seasonal offerings. There are two major harvests each week, and what is ripening determines what’s on offer. ‘It’s quite unique because you are dealing with seasonality and micro seasonality,’ Karena says. ‘What I can grow here you might not be able to grow at (nearby) Myponga.’ This summer has seen three different dishes with eggplant as the star ingredient - there were so many produced in the garden! The chefs and the kitchen staff are encouraged to connect with the garden. They’re taught how to pick vegetables and understand what is ripening. They have a deep respect for Maddie’s commitment to ensuring they have the best ingredients to show off their culinary skills. ‘It has pushed us as a kitchen and now we have a team that truly understands seasonality and it’s not just a catchphrase on Masterchef,’ says Karena. ‘They actually have to live it, work it and do it.’ The staff has also come to understand the catastrophes and the hiccoughs. Last spring, just as the artichokes were maturing to perfection and the menu had been planned around them, a hailstorm battered the garden and wiped out the ‘star ingredient’.

Despite these drawbacks, and the challenges of limited water as-well-as irrigation leaks, bugs, caterpillars and escaping chooks, Maddie and Karena see the realisation of their dream and vision on the horizon. The feedback from patrons at the restaurant has been part of the reward. Many have said they have tasted the true flavour of vegetables for the first time, and have left the restaurant feeling fresh, not over-indulged and bursting. To be able to say ‘we grew that’ fills Karena and Maddie with pride. ‘So what is the ultimate vision?’ I ask. And Karena’s answer is simple but rich in emotion and ambition. ‘Where I can walk out of my house and into my garden and restaurant. Where I can provide the best food and bring up my boys in this clean and wonderful place. This is the People’s Republic of McLaren Vale … I could not ever see myself leaving’. This patch of clay earth, once barren and windswept, is now so much more than a garden. It is a dream and a vision of two women, who have worked exceptionally hard to make it come true.

What’s new at South Australia’s oldest farmers’ market by WFM General Manager Jenni Mitton.

‘Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime.’ As the Willunga Farmers Market enters its sixteenth year, it’s paying homage to this ancient proverb by moving in a more holistic direction. Increasingly, growers are stepping out from behind their stalls and sharing their vast knowledge with shoppers. The concept is the brainchild of the market’s new management team. General Manager Jenni Mitton says a series of workshops and interactive events is now underway at the market. The program’s run in partnership with the Adelaide and Mount Lofty Ranges Natural Resources Management Board through the Market’s Young Farmers Scholarship. ‘Feed Your Belly Not Your Bin’ was the first event. It encouraged people to rethink food ‘waste’ and work towards a more sustainable lifestyle. This was followed by a workshop encouraging people to plant a more sustainable back yard, presented by Gardening Australia’s Sophie Thomson. Most recently, the highly knowledgeable team at McCarthy’s Orchard ran a ‘Prune in June’ session. Jenni believes the demonstrations and workshops build on the market’s already strong sense of continuity and community. ‘It shows

that our farmers aren’t all about production and sales but have a passion for what they do and an enthusiasm to share that knowledge with others,’ she says. So far the workshops have been embraced by shoppers and growers alike. ‘Stallholders have been lining up to share their knowledge with the market community,’ says Jenni. Market goers Mike and Kelly Adams have had a Willunga Farmers Market membership for over a decade. They say their love of the market extends far beyond the amazing quality of food. ‘We really enjoy the atmosphere - catching up with stall holders who are our market buddies, buying fresh fruit, vegetables and flowers,’ Kelly says. ‘We especially enjoy our family tradition of attending the market in the knowledge we directly support local food producers.’ The Willunga Farmers Market is held every Saturday morning in the Town Square from 8am -12.30pm. As-well-as the freshest local produce, you’ll find artisan products, barista-made coffee and live entertainment. Membership provides a ten per cent discount and supports the local farmers. Head to www.willungafarmersmarket.com.au for more information or sign up on market day.

Every Saturday 8am ‘til 12:30pm

Meet the grower, TASTE THE REGION Follow us: @willungafarmersmarket Located at Willunga Town Square, Willunga www.willungafarmersmarket.com.au 54

Building Community

Enriching Lives New enrolment opportunities now available in Year 7, 2018. Tour with us

Limited Vacancies

Friday 30 June, 9.30am Tuesday 8 August, 9.30am

Years 2 & 7-12, 2017 Years 3 & 7-12, 2018

Visit our website to learn more about our new direction for enrolment intakes into the Middle School and our exciting Year 7 STEM Centre opening in 2018. tatachilla.sa.edu.au

Alexandrina Council A selection of upcoming events in the Alexandrina region: *Black Screen at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 2 Jun Uwankara (Together) at Signal Point Gallery, Goolwa from 16 Jun to 16 Jul *The Three Chillies – ‘Hot Chillie Nights’ at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 17 Jun Alexandrina Council Collection at South Coast Regional Art Centre, Goolwa from 22 Jun – 23 Jul *Night and Day, The Doris & Shirley Show at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 1 Jul NAIDOC Week Celebrations, Strathalbyn & Goolwa at Strathalbyn Show Hall, Strathalbyn on 6 Jul and Signal Point Gallery, Goolwa on 9 Jul 2017 JamFactory Icon 2016 at Signal Point Gallery, Goolwa 21 Jul to 31 Aug

*Arts on Stream Film Festival at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 29 Jul Taking Place at Langhorne Creek Historic Old School from 31 Jul to 20 Aug Dridan & Friends at Stationmaster’s Art Gallery, Strathalbyn from 31 Jul to 27 Aug Stranger than Fiction SALA at Strathalbyn Library from 31 Jul to 27 Aug *Strathalbyn Bands Festival at Strathalbyn Town Hall on 6 and 13 Aug Silver Clay Jewellery Workshop at Strathalbyn Community Centre on 9 Aug *Kings of Croon, ‘Yesterday Today Tomorrow’ at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 18 Aug *’Billy - My Life’ The Story of Billy Joel at Mount Compass War Memorial Hall on 26 Aug (enquiries Mount Compass Supper Club 0427 386 220). * tickets/ booking required

For bookings and enquiries please visit www.visitalexandrina.com or call Council’s Visitor Information Centre on 1300 466 592. Alexandrina Council continues the ‘Just Add Water’ arts and culture program in 2017. View a copy online for more events in the region, www.alexandrina.sa.gov.au

PENINSULA PEOPLE

TRAILBLAZERS:

In the name of Oliver Story by Esther Thorn. Photograph by Angela Lisman.

From the generous windows of Don Oliver’s home at McLaren Vale, the view stretches as far as the eye can see; a patchwork of green and brown. This is Oliver land. It has been worked by Don’s forebears for five generations. When Don walks through the vines the memories rise up to meet him, as real as sights and smells. In the block where the old Clydesdales stable once stood, Don remembers the horses’ warm breath and their strong, gentle presence. ‘When I was a little tacker we had two Clydies left,’ Don tells me. ‘We’d get off the school bus and race down to the vineyard and there the horses would be pulling the burner.’ Back then, vine cuttings were burned. It wasn’t environmentally friendly but it meant no disease. ‘Dad would grab us and throw us on top of the Clydies and we’d ride them home to the stable and then slide off down the back of them.’ Don is sitting across from me as he tells this story, backlit by the late autumn afternoon sun. He’s wearing work clothes and has an air of comfort and ease about him. This is a man who belongs on his land, who is as much a part of it as the vines and the trees. At sixty-six-years-old, Don knows instinctively when the vines need water and when they should be starved. ‘It’s Don’s controlled neglect,’ he says. ‘I treat ‘em hard and treat ‘em mean and hope for the best.’ It’s a winning formula, the vineyard closest to the house has been selected eleven times to go into Penfolds’ Grange. ‘They’re the most broken down, old stressed vines we have but they’re the ones that make the cut,’ says Don. ‘I know exactly how the vines should look (for Grange), they need small berries, old canopy, leaves to drop off.’ But Don doesn’t only rely on his senses, he is also a man of science. He describes with great pride that high tech watering systems have been rolled out across the vineyard. At the swipe of his smart phone, Don can see the water levels two metres deep in the soil, and change the flow of the drippers accordingly. Don holds great appreciation for technology and how it has facilitated the growing of grapes. He has his ancestors’ records of grape harvests dating back to 1900, which show wildly varying yields and point to a life of uncertainty and heartbreak. 56

Don has also experienced first-hand how hard life on the land can be. The image of his father ripping out hundred-year-old vines during the grape pull of the 70s will be forever etched in his mind. ‘My dad didn’t actually like grapes because back then there wasn’t any money in them,’ remembers Don. ‘At one stage we had three years’ pay owing to us. Three years of vintages that the winery hadn’t paid ... it was terrible.’ Despite the hard work and lack of money, Don’s childhood was full of love, warmth and a strong sense of family pride. For as long as Don can remember, he has understood that the name Oliver comes with it a sense of obligation to this rich, fertile earth on the north western side of McLaren Vale. In 1839 Don’s great, great, great, great-grandfather William Oliver made the bold decision to buy land in newly colonized South Australia. He was still in Scotland at the time, and bought the property off an inaccurate map. It is the same parcel of land on which Don’s house is built; where I’m now sitting and drinking a glass of wine made from Oliver grapes. William, and his wife Elizabeth, came out to Australia a couple of years after their initial land purchase. Soon after their arrival, they rapidly went about buying up more and more land across South Australia. Where their money came from, or how William was able to buy so much land is a mystery. ‘He ended up with lots of land in a very short time and all we can think is that he bought land in other people’s names while he was still in Scotland and then claimed it all when he got out here.’ There is also little known about the Indigenous people whose land he was acquiring. Don believes that the Taranga name, which is now synonymous with Oliver’s wine, may have come from the Kaurna word Tarangk meaning middle. In addition to the McLaren Vale land, William Oliver bought blocks in the centre of Adelaide and also in Port Pirie and Crystal Brook. He sent three of his four sons off to manage the mid-north properties but, when it was discovered that they were drinking, smoking and gambling instead of farming, he disinherited them. The Oliver family history is checkered with stories of family disputes and land divisions. It’s a tradition this generation is keen to break and Don is determined to keep Olivers on Oliver land. ‘The plan is never to lose our Taranga land,’ he says. Currently Don and his brother own one hundred hectares of vines in McLaren Vale, as well as three properties in the South East. They also

‘When I was a little tacker we had two Clydies left. We’d get off the school bus and race down to the vineyard and there the horses would be pulling the burner.’

Above: Don Oliver at home. The view stretches as far as the eye can see.

own the Oliver’s Taranga cellar door on Seaview Road at McLaren Vale, which is managed by their niece Corrina Wright and Don’s daughter Brioni. All Oliver’s Taranga wines are made using Don and Corrina’s grapes. Creating the wine label in 1994 and converting an old workers’ cottage into the now renowned cellar door, marked a significant turning point in the Oliver family fortunes. Until then they had been only grape growers, at the mercy of the wineries who bought their fruit. Although, Don tells me, this isn’t entirely true. He’s found a reference to William Oliver entering a bottle of wine in the Willunga Agricultural Show of 1857. There are also the remnants of an old slate fermenter that can still be seen on Oliver land. Stories of the past are woven into the Oliver’s Taranga label. There’s ‘The Banished Fortified Grenache’ which acknowledges the fact the three scurrilous brothers mentioned earlier were written out of the will. And there’s the Ruthless Ruth Liqueur Muscat which recognises Ruth, the wife of their other brother who inherited the land. She kept the farm going when her husband died young, after pursuing ways as dissolute as his brothers. Happy times and recent accomplishments are also infused into the branding. The 2016

Mencia bottles are proudly inscribed with the fact Brioni got her heavy rigid truck licence that same year. As our interview draws to a close, it becomes clear to me that despite the impressive history of the Oliver family, Don’s focus is on the future. His daughter Brioni is pregnant with her first child, a little boy. Two of Don’s other grandchildren have been playing around us throughout my visit. They live nearby and will grow up with the same sense of belonging to the land that Don has. ‘My goal is to constantly improve the land,’ he says. ‘To make sure it’s in better condition for the next generation than it was when it was handed to us.’ Because of this desire, Don’s farming practises are softening … just a little bit. ‘I am doing a few nice things for the vines; giving them a bit of compost and such. But if you do too much you’ll blow it.’ After a recent heart operation, Don has scaled back his physical work on the property, although he remains heavily involved in the business. ‘My day’s a dream really,’ he says. ‘I go and check on the vines and then I go over to the cellar door and see what’s happening there. People say when are you going to retire? Well I don’t ever want to retire, I love what I do.’ 57

Above: Phantasmagorical Fungi; a Cabinet of Curiosities, altered and natural found objects, polymer, plaster, papier mache, 2016.

The magical world of Audrey Harnett Story by Fleur Peters. It’s an intriguing welcome into Audrey Harnett’s world. Her lush garden is shaded by towering gums and everywhere I look there are handmade mosaics, sculptures and earthenware. Near the entrance to the house textiles hang drying over a vintage chair. Once inside, I am astounded. Signs of art making are everywhere. A fascinating array of paintings and prints surround bookshelves brimming with artisan and found objects, as well as a floor-to-ceiling installation of mosaic art mirrors. Suspended over the dining table are assemblages in various states and a chandelier of teacups, saucepans and lace doilies. It is eight years since my first foray into Audrey’s world and I now know her more deeply. I realise that what characterises her as an artist is a fearless determination to experiment with materials. She has an unashamed disregard for rules, while simultaneously exploring and drawing from the traditions of formal art practise. Audrey is a professionally-trained printmaker and jeweller, but in her heart and mind she is an installation artist. She says it is

when her inner and outer worlds collide that her most profound inspiration emerges. With a lifetime of travel and five decades’ love of bushwalking, she is a compulsive, serious dreamer whose creativity is boundless, nurtured by a rich and fertile imagination. ‘Life in general that is not art, only gets in the way,’ Audrey says. It wasn’t always that clear-cut. In contrast with her current surroundings, Audrey, daughter of English migrants, was raised in Adelaide’s northern suburbs. The few pieces of art on the walls of the family home were religious in nature. She and her five siblings soon discovered the natural wonder and diverse beauty of nearby bushland, and this connection to their adopted country was to become a constant for them all. Once Audrey came of age she made a pilgrimage back to Europe, discovering the power of art while visiting London and Paris art museums. She remembers sitting for hours contemplating classics such as Monet’s Water Lillies and recalls the amazement of seeing these works for the first time. This avid awakening developed into an ongoing appreciation and passion for art history.

Above left: Detail from a Cabinet of Curiosities, found and altered natural objects, papier mache, 2016. Above right: Ship of Dreams, found bones, relief printed silks, wire, 2014. Below: Audrey working on her textile piece as part of her installation for SALA with Fine Art Kangaroo Island at the Adelaide Wine Centre.

‘It is not where I am, it’s where I am in my mind at that particular time, at that place, that I seek to capture in my artwork.’ Her first artworks are ink sketches, touchstones that chart her voyages, materialise her musings and connect the kaleidoscope of emotions, thoughts and memories.

On Audrey’s return to Adelaide her art journey detoured when she enrolled in a business degree at university. She completed her course over six years, taking it one year at a time. Studying in blocks enabled her to travel for as long as she wished. Visual journaling was important to Audrey. Her first artworks are ink sketches, touchstones that chart her voyages, materialise her musings and connect the kaleidoscope of emotions, thoughts and memories. Some journals contained slips of fabric or fragments of hemp rope that would later be woven into a basket, a multi-layered memento of a Himalayan trek. It seems that others recognised her desire to be an artist long before she did. At her 2016 solo exhibition ‘The Wonder Room’ at South Coast Arts Centre, a fellow alumnus told Audrey he had always known she would be an artist. The elaborate doodles on her lecture notes thirty-years-ago were testament to the visual ideas about the world bursting from her. >

Above: A Dream of Realms Ethereal, unique artist book, multiple relief prints and screen prints on paper, 2016. Below: Elemental Reliquary, detail, relief print, fabricated object, etched copper, cast pewter, papier mache, found bones and natural objects, 2015

As a young mother Audrey commenced arts training in earnest, completing short courses in life drawing and silk painting. She taught textile painting and sold silks, fitting her creativity around raising a family. It was during a ceramics course that Audrey recalls covering the kitchen in plastic, stripping the toddlers down to their nappies and throwing pots while they played around her. When Audrey and her life-partner David set up a second home on a large bush acreage at Western River on Kangaroo Island’s north coast, her creativity found a place to flourish. ‘I am interested in life cycles and natural elements. I collect bones, feathers and twigs. I can sit at ‘The Cove’ and view the rock pools, while all the time journeying in my own imagination,’ she says. ‘It is not where I am, it’s where I am in my mind at that particular time, at that place, that I seek to capture in my artwork.’ It was in mid-life that Audrey harnessed the confidence to enrol in formal arts training and in 2008 commenced a Certificate IV in Jewellery Design. This culminated with a Bachelor Degree of Printmaking from Adelaide College of the Arts in 2013. That same year she had the honour of being selected for the Helpmann Academy Graduate exhibition, which celebrates noteworthy SA emerging artists. Audrey’s life has had its share of joy and loss, and her daily art practise is her way to process and express experiences. Art is a constant in her life, a necessity whether at home, study touring such as a recent printmaking residency to Mexico, or on a walking holiday to Iceland.

Several of Audrey’s projects will be on view in upcoming exhibitions. Island to Inland opens at Flinders Street Gallery on June 30, 2017 and she is a regular SA Living Artist participant. ‘At the moment I am deeply into the idea of liminality; the space between two places for example reality and myth, awake and asleep, heaven and earth,’ says Audrey. ‘The theme for this year’s KI at SALA exhibition is the Intertidal Zone. I am exploring the intermediate zone between the terrestrial life and the magical mythological realms that fascinate me.’ At fifty-three-years-old Audrey considers she still has years of journeying left. These days much of her travels are to her owner built house on KI where she can escape, reflect, reset and re-create.

There is always something new at the Strand Galllery

---- r

S C A R PA N TO N I SERIOUS REGIONAL WINES MADE BY

SERIOUS FAMILY WINEMAKERS

Michael G Moseley

General Builder and Supervisor Project Manager

Telephone: 0428 822 246 PO Box 223, Goolwa SA 5214. BUILDING PERFECTION Licence No. G & SG 9055 CLASS 1

The

Strandï¿½ gallery

Weekends 10 till 4 The Strand Port Elliot

Helivista by Che Chorley

Photographer Che Chorley takes to the sky with Helivistaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Paul Beck to capture the Fleurieuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hidden treasures.

It’s Good Friday, half an hour before sunset. We’re flying low enough to see couples and families walk below, jetties are alive as fishing lines are cast, dogs chase balls and kids try to outrun the breaking waves. We track further along the coast and suddenly we’re isolated, barely a sign of humanity. Only one kilometre ago, the beaches were teeming with life; now I struggle to spot a soul.

If you live along the Mid Coast, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re familiar with the almost nightly autumnal display of colour, as the sun blasts the cliffs with raking light. As we pass over Myponga Beach, the show starts in earnest with breathtaking shadow play over the hills and valleys. We pass the cliffs of Sellicks Hill where the lighting event reaches its crescendo.

We rise higher and look down on a world oblivious to our presence. Far beneath us, a line of swell breaks on the shore, silent from our vantage point. The closing of my cameraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shutter momentarily breaks my view. The orange of the cliffâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s many faces is complemented by the deep blue of the ocean.

We pass Second Valley and as the oceanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surface glistens gold, I notice a catamaran sitting moored off the cliffs. We turn back along the coast and, as we head north, the water goes from a brilliant gold to a deep blue. The cliffs fall into the sea below. We pass two people picnicking on the cliff edge, a bottle of wine beside them.

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ECOURSE AND MENTORING BY AWARD WINNING LOCATION PHOTOGRAPHER HEIDI LINEHAN, HEIDI WHO PHOTOS

One out of the box Story by Penny Westhorp. Photographs by Peter Barnes.

Previous page: A large deck with louvers helps make the space more multifunctional. Above: From a distance, the house appears to be two linked open cubes, balancing upon a small sand dune.

A native bird led Robyn Henwood to the sand dune block, upon which her extraordinary house now gently balances. The textile design artist, and her husband Barry Mitchell, had previously looked at the Silver Sands parcel of land and dismissed it. So, when Robyn detoured on a walk to follow a bird and it brought her back there, she knew it was significant. Once the couple purchased the block, the challenge was to do justice to such a unique and fragile parcel of land. Robyn and Barry were determined to build a house that would ‘tread lightly’ both environmentally and aesthetically and so they began commissioning a house that would ‘think outside the square’. A city neighbour recommended impressive architect Max Pritchard, of KI Southern Ocean Lodge fame. After looking at his designs, they were sure they could not afford him. But, never one to hang back, Robyn asked him anyway. They got the list of practicalities out of the way – a house that was small and easy to care for, two studios that could double as guest bedrooms; a music room for Barry’s two bands to practice in; parking for two cars and plenty of water storage. Knowing that their eye-line to the beach could be built out during the next few years, Robyn and Barry wanted to make the most of their ‘other’ view – the low brown Willunga Hills, patch-worked by dark native scrub, and girdled by the seasonal bright-green of grapevines. But when it came to the actual design of the home, they left it up to Max. And the result is stunning. From a distance, the house appears to be two linked open cubes, balancing upon a small sand dune. There is light from every direction, and at first glance it seems the residents would be on permanent show. But the home is well thought out and remote-operated window shades can make the inside private within moments. Combined with the double glazed window walls, the blinds help modify the sun from all angles.

When the huge windows are opened, the ever-present breeze cools the house quickly. With solar power, solar heat-pump hot water and sixty thousand litres of rainwater, the house leaves a very small environmental footstep. Robyn and Barry were resolute that the sand dune must be preserved and indeed improved. Robyn points out their extensive plantings of over one thousand natives, all sourced from seeds and cuttings she collected on her walks through the adjoining threehundred-hectare Aldinga Scrub. ‘It must come from right here, and fit exactly with the spot,’ she says of the revegetation. Covering parts of the sand with jute has allowed the plantings to be more successful, although they have lost some seedlings to the unrelenting wind. They have lots of practice in revegetation, having worked on their large Eyre Peninsula property, and through their support for various organisations, including Trees for Life. Robyn and Barry were equally adamant that the two Aboriginal heritage sites on the block must be preserved. They consulted an archaeologist, and the Aboriginal Affairs section of the Department of State Development, to determine exactly what was there and how it should be preserved. They cordoned off the areas during the build, and still forbid anyone to walk over them. Despite the encumbrances, the build was relatively straightforward it took just two years from purchasing the land to moving in. >

Previous page: A large open plan living area captures views of the ocean to the west and scrub to the east. Above: Looking back to the Willunga Hills.

And much of that was taken up by getting approval for the unusual design. Construction, by Fairweather-Davies, with Geoff Fairweather at the helm, took a year. The outcome is so impressive it has already drawn national acclaim, with Grand Designs Australia set to feature the project. Practicality and beauty are woven together throughout the design of the home. One cube contains the master bedroom and bathroom, and the open-plan kitchen, dining and lounge area. The bathroom has twin hand-made slumped-glass basins in sea tones of blue and green, commissioned from Meg Caslake and David Peddler. In the lounge pride-of-place goes to two classic Wegner paddle-armed lounge chairs. Inside the home Robyn’s textiles hang framed on the walls or are loosely displayed on the furniture. Mounted behind glass, as the splashback, is an impressive piece of silk fabric dyed with eucalyptus and mistletoe in tones of rust, ochre and a muted lichen-orange. Robyn rubs her hand thoughtfully over the concrete benchtop and says, ‘I didn’t want a white kitchen, nothing shiny. We didn’t use an interior designer, we talked everything over with Max. I thought the

palette here might be bright, vibrant, lots of blues, but now it’s turned out to be much earthier.’ It feels grounded, counterbalancing the enormous sweeps of blue and green from sea, sky and hills. Out over the open walkway, across a dip in the dune, is the second cube. Here are the two studios, each convertible to a guest bedroom, and a second bathroom-laundry combo, home to a deep bath ‘in case the grandkids need it.’ Barry’s studio contains an extensive collection of books and technology, with an impressive Sonos sound system that can play different tracks simultaneously in separate parts of the house. Robyn’s studio is small, for a practising textile artist, but she says it is her space ‘for ideas, for designing, for drawing.’ When she dyes the fabric, she does it in her city studio Sheoak Designs. At home, her cupboards are painted with magnetic chalkboard paint so she can quickly capture ideas. To draw and design from her botanic samples, Robyn stands at a beautiful extra-height table she commissioned through Green Edge Interiors. The table was made by Organo Design on Kangaroo Island from recycled oregon, with steel legs, and has handy drawers underneath. > 71

Previous page: The wooden-slatted audio cabinet in the lounge room matches the kitchen cabinetry. The kitchen features Robyn’s customised splashback that incorporates an impressive piece of silk fabric dyed with eucalyptus and mistletoe in tones of rust, ochre and a muted lichen-orange. Top: View of the bridge and living area pod. Bottom left: Robyn’s art space. Above right: Bowls on the vanity were hand-crafted for the project.

Robyn uses the space to think through her artistic direction. ‘Perhaps I’ll combine my yoga and art,’ she says. ‘I might do more drawing, or take up painting. I’ve done a lot of production work in the past, now I want to concentrate on ideas.’ This house is not just a weekend beach retreat; it’s Robyn and Barry’s full-time home. Does this mean they’re retiring? Barry smiles – he’s already retired. Robyn laughs – she never stops. She had three weeks ‘off’ over summer, but went up to the city ‘to do a little bit of

work’ twice a week. She has her yoga classes and designs individual yoga practices for clients; she has her textile art practice in both the city and now at the house; she teaches art at Sturt Street Primary. She says, ‘As an artist or a yogi, I don’t think you retire. It’s not something you do.’ Barry adds, ‘Can an artist retire from life?’ Living in this house, lightly balanced on a dune between the sea, the scrub and the sky, there’s always inspiration.

TASTE THE SEASON:

Cauliflower

(also known as Brassica oleracea)

Story by Annabel Bowles.

If this has sent you daydreaming away on a cruciferous cloud Considered by some to be plain and then come back to Earth, because one serving of this vegetable bland, cauliflower is all too often left to contains seventy-seven percent of your recommended daily Vitamin go cold on a dinner plate or decay in the C intake. It’s also rich in natural antioxidants, health-promoting bottom of the crisper. But this cruciferous phytochemicals and anti-inflammatory compounds. How can vegetable should never be overlooked; it is something that tastes so good be so incredibly healthy? delicious, nutritious and versatile. Cauliflower Fritters with Tahini Miso Dip Cauliflower is perfect for anyone avoiding gluten or dairy, as it can be transformed into a number of dishes that can replicate these ingredients with reasonable success. The latest trend is cauliflower pizza bases, made by processing cauliflower into a couscous-like texture and mixing it with almond meal, parmesan and egg. Shape the mixture into flat bases, toss on your favourite toppings and bake until golden and crisp. Cauliflower can also replace rice or grains, simply by crumbling the florets or lightly processing them. Think cauliflower tabbouleh or cauliflower risotto – delicious! If you’re dairy-free and want an alternative to cream, try steaming cauliflower and then pureeing it. With a little culinary craft the humble cauliflower can be turned into an array of delicacies, including hummus, Alfredo sauce and soup. The stem of the cauliflower is just as valuable as the florets. Chop it up and add it to slow-cooked curries and casseroles. And don’t throw away the leaves; they too can be eaten and are very high in calcium. Roast the leaves (like kale chips) with a bit of oil and salt to transform what would otherwise be chook food into a moorish snack. While these new, inventive ways to use cauliflower are tempting, the classic cheesy cauliflower bake is hard to beat. This is the true hero of all cauliflower dishes and the epitome of winter-warming, comfort food. What could be better than cauliflower florets covered in oozy, golden, cheesy Béchamel sauce? Perhaps only the sticky, crunchy, golden bits that stick to the edge of the baking dish. 74

2 tablespoons plain flour 1 egg, lightly beaten 1/3 cup tahini 1/4 cup lemon juice Olive oil or rice bran oil for shallow-frying 1 small head cauliflower, thickly sliced (1.5cm) Place flour in a bowl. Make a well in the centre. Gradually whisk in egg, 1/3 cup tahini, 1/4 cup lemon juice and 1/4 cup cold water. Season well with salt and pepper. Add enough oil to a large deep frying pan to come five millimetres up side of pan. Heat over medium-high heat. Working in batches, dip cauliflower into batter, draining excess. Shallow-fry for one or two minutes each side or until golden. Drain on a paper towel lined tray. Tahini Miso Dip 3 tablespoons tahini 1 tablespoon miso paste 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1-2 tablespoons warm water dash of sesame oil and soya sauce Whisk ingredients together in a small bowl and serve alongside warm fritters, accompanied by tabbouleh.

More than just a Winery….. Sample our premium small batch, cellar door only wines. Enjoy our unique regional foods while overlooking our wetlands and vineyards in the tranquil, historical birth place of McLaren Vale.

Now at 206 Port Road, Aldinga Open from 11 to 9pm Fridays • 11 to 4pm Sat & Sun. Other times by appointment. Tasting Classes • Professional Wine Certification and more. 206 Port Road, Aldinga T: 08 8556 2590 E: gill@fallfromgrace.com.au

Structured wine tastings Grapple Ciders On farm accommodation Regional foods Barista Coffee Event facilities

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Dining destinations

A selection of dining destinations to get you out and about on the Fleurieu this winter.

AMPIKA’S KITCHEN Ampika’s Kitchen offers a delicious Thai dining experience overlooking the spectacular Port Noarlunga beach, jetty and reef. Clean, fresh, delightful flavours to excite all tastes. Dine in or dine away with restaurant quality meals to enjoy at home. Vegetarian, vegan and gluten free options available. The beer and wine bar has six hand crafted beers on tap and local McLaren Vale wines by the glass. 1 Saltfleet Street, Port Noarlunga. Telephone: 8186 1288

THE OLFACTORY INN This quaint cottage restaurant on an antique shop-dappled street in Strathalbyn is forty minutes from everywhere. Vines draping across the old veranda create the perfect outside dining experience. Alternatively get snuggly on the banquettes by the open fire. Let Simon Burr feed your senses with the local-inspired five course tasting menu. 35 High Street, Strathalbyn. Telephone: 0447 771 750

HARRY’S DELI Wirra Wirra’s new café, Harry’s Deli, offers casual dining inside a refurbished cellar door space and in the courtyard overlooking the native gardens and Scrubby Rise vineyard. The café features a delicious menu showcasing regional produce in seasonal platters, salads and mouth-watering panini – all accompanied by a selection of Wirra Wirra wines. 463 McMurtrie Road, McLaren Vale www.wirrawirra.com Telephone: 08 8323 8414

CORIOLE VINEYARDS RESTAURANT Coriole is nestled in the idyllic McLaren Vale countryside. Since Chef Tom Reid’s arrival in 2014, the restaurant’s focus has been estate grown or locally sourced produce. The ever changing menu utilises figs, asparagus, leaves, artichokes, citrus and numerous other fruit and vegetables from Coriole’s land and the local farmers. Chef’s selection ‘Feed Me’ menus are also available. Reservations recommended. Thursday to Monday 12pm to 2.30pm. www.coriole.com for online bookings. Telephone: 08 8323 8305

PIZZATECA True pizza. Neapolitan style made by hand the traditional way. Fired in our wood oven made by the famous Stefano Ferrara in Napoli, Italy. The birthplace of vera pizza. We use the techniques passed down from generation to generation with locally sourced South Australian ingredients. Antipasto and chargrill. Bookings recommended. Open Fri, Sat, Sun. 319 Chalk Hill Rd McLaren Vale www.pizza-teca.com Telephone: 08 8323 9762

OUR PLACE Simple Italian fare, just like the good old days. Andy Clappis and his family are passionate about creating exceptional food. They all play a role in making this Willunga Hill restaurant so well-loved. Sunday lunches – no menu, reservations essential. Private functions and celebrations. 1980 Brookman Road, Willunga Hill Tel: 08 8556 7337 Mob: 0417 879 551

Dare to dream Story by Jo Pike. Photographs by Ron Langman. Five thousand cars pass through Coonalpyn on the Dukes Highway every day, but few have felt the need to stop. Until now. Images of five local children beautifully rendered by artist Guido van Helten on the thirty-metre high Viterra silos, make it difficult for drivers not to slow their vehicles. Indeed, since March this year, one in three of those whizzing cars not only stops, but spills its phone-wielding, food consuming occupants out to goggle at the huge, eye-popping images. This of course occasions thousands of social media posts and feel-good news stories locally and internationally, which in turn generate more visits. 78

But this is just a small part of a much larger story. After many years of decline, exacerbated by drought, Coonalpyn was in dire need of a facelift to draw people back and provide a pick-me-up to those who had stuck out the tough times. Enter Coorong Council staff and a group of residents who had tired of the naysayers. They resolved to find the answer in a suite of arts projects, which would not only provide a magnet to the many passersby, but also bring the townsfolk together in a common purpose. Creating Coonalpyn was born.

Previous page: No longer a drive–by on the roadside. The Coonalpyn Silos success story has been lauded on CNN and the BBC! This is destination making public art and we want to see more of it! Above: A wedge-tailed eagle made of over three-thousand coloured metal tabs now brightens up the drab tennis court fence.

When you make your own stop in Coonalpyn, I encourage you to think about the people in this tiny country town, who dared to dream that a suite of arts projects could be the lifeline that would put them back on the map. I was engaged a year ago by Coorong Council, Coonalpyn Arts Group and major funder Country Arts SA to assess the impact of Creating Coonalpyn as a model of regional renewal. I asked the organisations what they thought success looked like. The answer surprised me for its boldness and belief. Apart from the usual street beautification and social benefits that you’d expect from community artworks, they added an upsurge in visitor numbers, increase in trade, new businesses, higher employment and an upswing in the real estate market to the list of expectations. I’ve worked in regional arts for over two decades and few are fiercer advocates for the power of art to change lives than me. But even I cautioned against the whole enterprise being seen as a failure if these lofty goals weren’t realised. But blow-me-down if the people of Coonalpyn aren’t making it happen – both at the higher level and at the grassroots. On the surface the masterstroke was to lure Brisbane-based artist Guido van Helten to create his spectacular mural. But the real key to long-term success lies in the whole suite of six artist-led community projects, based around the talents of the local people, who would ultimately make them happen. Allowing a flexible timeframe so that things could evolve organically was also crucial. A wedge-tailed eagle made of over three-thousand coloured metal tabs now brightens up the drab tennis court fence. A horticultural and sculptural installation breathes life into a once-derelict site, local needlecraft group Sew n Sews has appliqued Coonalpyn Show themed flags and the twenty-year-old railway underpass ‘gallery’ has been restored, reimagined and renamed Tunnel Re-Vision.

Perhaps the most ambitious project, the silos aside, is a stunning mosaic mural at the roadside toilet block, with a scale and complexity that has tested the dedicated band of contributors. Instead of breaking old crockery or tiles into small pieces, the group, which is led by Goolwa artist Mike Tye, is employing the ‘opus sectile’ method of tile cutting, where the pieces are cut to shape, like stained glass. Not only is this a new skill for these self-confessed ‘smashers’, but it makes the process considerably longer. ‘They were originally sceptical about having to cut rather than smash, but now that they can see the level of detail they can attain they appreciate this way of doing it and are proud of the outcome,’ says Mike. ‘They’re really concerned now about the quality of the work they’re doing.’ One of the half a dozen regular contributors is Anne-Maree Zanker, who lives on the family farm with husband Lyal a few kilometres out of town. ‘We sit around the table solving the world’s problems and have a lot of laughs while we’re working,’ she tells me. ‘It’s hard work but a lot of fun at the same time. It’s a bit addictive; we set a timer and every hour do a couple of laps around the hall for a stretch.’ Mike is an old hand at leading community projects and understands the hidden benefits. ‘We talk about community arts projects building social capital, which is really just ‘government speak’ for people spending more time together,’ says Mike. ‘Really it’s about getting to know each other and sharing day-to-day conversation, enabling people to talk more freely about the issues they face. People always ask me why we don’t speed up the process with power tools. Not only are they more tiring to hold, but you can’t talk over the noise. It’s much more social to work by hand and chat. This group talks constantly and it’s a lively conversation!’ > 79

Above: The twenty-year-old railway underpass ‘gallery’ has been restored, reimagined and renamed Tunnel Re-Vision.

‘Four cars in the street would have been the maximum before, but now it’s not unusual to have fifty cars parked there at any one time.’ Julie adds that there is one downside to the popularity. ‘The amount of toilet paper being used is quite dramatic!’ Anne-Maree agrees. ‘If you had machines it wouldn’t be the same because you’d have the noise but not the laughter,’ she says. ‘It’s given us all a new lease of life and brought us together. If we just had the silos it wouldn’t have been quite the same atmosphere because we weren’t ‘hands on’ with the silos.’ Long time Coonalpyn residents John and Julie Barrie remember the tough times. It wasn’t long ago that their town’s community spirit was challenged by the closure of businesses, vacant houses, diminishing services and the failure of a worthwhile community project, due to a growing hostility between the protagonists. ‘Echoes of this sad circumstance had resounded within the district far too long,’ John recalls. ‘This was a very low point of community spirit in Coonalpyn.’ The Barries had put their family home on the market and were planning to ‘up sticks’ but are now upbeat about the future. They say the greatest change is the overall vitality of the town and the townspeople, and that people now look out for each other. John’s love of painting was rekindled through the Tunnel Vision project, but he needed a place with good light to work in. Initially he wasn’t keen to make modifications on his house, given that it was up for sale. But now the for sale sign has come down and modifications to the house have let more light in. ‘I’m really getting stuck in to doing more artwork,’ he says. ‘All sorts of interesting people are coming to town, who we can interact with and capture images of. The Coonalpyn experience is all about people. It’s quite inspirational.’ The power in the design for the silos mural lies in the choice of local children to represent renewal and regeneration, rather than relying on oft-used historical, nostalgic themes. Guido photographed local school children and then transferred their playful interactions onto the large scale so they became one with the circular structure of the

silos. While the five children chosen for the murals are enjoying a bit of individual celebrity right now, in time they will come to represent the community’s shared hope for the future. The wraparound design encourages people to stop, walk around the silos and photograph the mural from different angles. And they’ve done so in their thousands. Anne-Maree did a stint on the ‘Driver Reviver’ tent over Easter. ‘People were stopping, which they didn’t used to do and it was amazing how many people had actually made a special trip just for a look,’ she says. ‘Four cars in the street would have been the maximum before, but now it’s not unusual to have fifty cars parked there at any one time.’ Julie adds that there is one downside to the popularity. ‘The amount of toilet paper being used is quite dramatic!’ The influx of people has also increased demand for food and beverages and local businesses are now doing well. And there are benefits in unexpected areas too, like an exponential rise in the demand for eggs in the town. The Zanker family has had to add to its flock of beloved chooks, which roam freely amongst the sheep and cattle. John and Julie couldn’t be happier with their decision to stay in Coonalpyn. ‘We are now sharing time, knowledge, skills, coffee, jokes and merriment, guided by skilled organisers in Council, fuelled by grants, donations and loads of passion,’ they say. ‘We are now fighting in unison to save Coonalpyn, to engage with the wider populace, to reach for a future that we can all be proud of.’ When you make your own stop in Coonalpyn, I encourage you to think about the people in this tiny country town, who dared to dream that a suite of arts projects could be the lifeline that would put them back on the map. And not only to dream, but to dream big.

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Serving visitors and locals alike for more than 40 years. Coffee, quality cakes, gelati and full al a carte lunch, dinner and pizza menu. 17 Albert Place Victor Harbor (opposite Crown Hotel) Ph 8552 3501 • Open 7 days 9.00am till late.

www.ninoscafe.com.au

ANGELA LISMAN PHOTOGRAPHY Freelance Photographer with a passion for Food, Wine and Events.

T: 0409 738 297 E: angela@angelalismanphotography.com.au W: angelalismanphotography.com.au

MINED IN THE OUTBACK HANDCRAFTED ON THE FLEURIEU

www.kimberleyopal.com

FOOD & WINE

Distilled and rare The Fleurieu Peninsula and Kangaroo Island have become home to a handful of distilleries in recent years – and some are taking out big awards. You can enjoy these good libations on site, or check their respective websites for a retailer near you. KANGAROO ISLAND

FLEURIEU DISTILLERY

SETTLERS GIN

ENCOUNTER COAST

MOUNT COMPASS GIN

SPIRITS

GR Andrews & Sons

Settlers Artisan Pink Gin

SPIRITS

Martin Distillation

Kangaroo Island Distillery

Fleurieu Distillery

This latest release – Pink

Fortune Teller Gin

Company Pty Ltd Mount

Kis Mulberry Gin

The Rubicon

Gin – is made with rose

Fortune Teller Gin is

Compass Distilled Gin

This gin was inspired by

Peated Single Malt Whisky

petals and raspberries,

handcrafted at Encounter

A traditional dry style gin of

KI’s famous mulberry tree.

The Rubicon, Fleurieu

giving wonderful aromatics

Coast Spirits, which is

juniper with earthy notes of

The subtle juniper notes

Distillery’s second release

and vibrant fruit. Garnish

situated on the outskirts of

angelica and coriander.

complement the tart mulberry

is a lightly peated, port-

with strawberries and mint;

Victor Harbor. The flavour

Light citrus flavours are

flavour. A hint of sweetness

barrel single malt. Polished

perfection! Settlers’ gins are

profile is of a crisp, dry gin.

obtained from using the

comes through from the fruit

mahogany in colour and

made from grape spirit (the

Citrus notes are derived

indigenous Lemon Myrtle.

as-well-as the local coriander.

carrying a nose of dried

origins of gin). The result is a

from the incorporation

Described at a recent

A refreshing drink served neat

fruits, vanilla and toffee apple,

lovely soft mouth feel. Each

of cumquats (Fortunella

industry tasting as light, crisp,

on ice but made even more

the peat, while not overly

botanical is team vapour

Margarita Nagami) and subtle

clean and delicate, it can be

special when served in a basil

forward, is reminiscent of

distilled and then blended,

tones of rosemary in the

enjoyed over ice or with a

smash with fresh lemon juice,

toasted nuts.

resulting in flavours that are

background.

favourite mixer.

sugar syrup and basil.

Immerse yourself in the

bright and clean.

Enjoy it with a good tonic or

lingering finish of smoky maple and baked vanilla.

as a beautiful martini.

Discover the fine mix of food, wine, art and ale! Red Poles Restaurant / Cellar Door / Art Gallery / B&B Delight all of your senses ... We are the cellar door for Brick Kiln wines and Vale Ale craft beer. Live acoustic music every Sunday 12.30-3.30pm. Open Wed-Sun 9-5. 190 McMurtrie Rd McLaren Vale. Ph : 08 8323 8994 / 0417 814 695 redpoles@redpoles.com.au/www.redpoles.com.au

South Seas Books & Trading is an independent bookshop in Port Elliot. The shop is a welcoming space where people can browse the shelves for the latest books at their leisure, meet friends for a coffee or shop for a unique gift. As well as books we also have stationary, presents for children, ceramics, art and other appealing gifts. We have a wide selection of literature and good reading for all ages as well as a range of eclectic art and design books. Monday to Saturday 10.00am to 5.00pm Sundays and public holidays 11.00am to 4.00pm Closed Tuesdays 53 North Terrace Port Elliot P 8554 2301.

Open Thursday to Monday 11am for coffee & lunch. Friday & Saturday dinner Experience a regional culinery journey.

Bookings: 8598 4184 www.leonardsmill.com.au 7869 Main South Road, Second Valley

Reid Pinto and Georgie Heinrich married on the 1st of April 2017, at Georgie’s family farm ‘Ella Matta’ on Kangaroo Island. Photographs by Rosemary Photography.

Fleurieu Weddings

Above top and right: The spectacularly located Dudley Wines Function Space formed a perfect backdrop for the wedding reception with overlooking Penneshaw, Backstairs Passage and the mainland.

The image of a picturesque, whimsy wedding does not usually go hand-inhand with a working farm. But Reid and Georgie were able to weave beauty, grace and personal touches into every aspect of their wedding, which was held at Georgie’s family farm ‘Ella Matta’ on Kangaroo Island.

Then it was off to the spectacularly located Dudley Wines Cellar Door at Penneshaw for the reception. The venue overlooks the beautiful Backstairs Passage and the mainland. It was a breathtaking view for all the wedding guests, but perhaps most awestruck were the overseas guests, who came from London, Canada and the United States.

To infuse the ceremony with so much charm took weeks of preparations. Once the couple had chosen the location – on top of a hill in a paddock close to the house – they needed an entranceway. They chose a building material close to hand, stacking hay rolls fifty metres high to create the perfect entrance.

The surprises kept coming with Georgie and Reid performing a wedding dance, choreographed by Georgie and her mum Tracie. The couple had been practising it in the living room for the past four months and the guests loved every minute of it … especially the odd misstep here and there.

As the guests made their way through, the view of the altar and the beautiful property opened up before them. It was the detail that made the event so spectacular. Georgie’s family created a ‘sheep love heart’ by spreading oats in a heart shape and then releasing the flock to feed just as guests arrived. But the wedding had a serious element to it, with the couple exchanging vows under a rustic, wooden arbour in a moving ceremony. Afterwards drinks and canapés were held in the paddock, with produce from the farm.

It was the perfect celebration of Reid and Georgie’s close relationship, which began five years ago when they met through friends. Reid proposed in May, 2015 during a surprise weekend away, which included a romantic dinner at Maximilian’s Winery and an afternoon picnic at Mount Lofty Botanic Gardens. Reid and Georgie are now planning to honeymoon in South America, where they’ll spend one month exploring Peru and Ecuador.

Penneshaw caterers Kangaroo Island Source served local produce for entrée and main. Desserts were especially sweet because they were handmade by both Georgie and Reid’s grandparents and were served alongside the wedding cake.

Lunch at

eat

OPEN for lunch everyday Drink in the fabulous views Smell the salty air Eat our local fare Enjoy casual seaside dining

Bookings: 08 8552 4400

Supporting Australian Artists and Craftspeople Paintings, Prints, Cards, Jewellery, Giftware, Aboriginal Art, Ceramics, Textiles, Glass, Garden Art. Open Thursday, Friday, Sunday and Monday 11-4, Saturday 10-4.

121 Franklin Pde, Encounter Bay

29 High Street, Willunga, South Australia 5172 contact@willungagallery.com.au willungagallery.com.au

Willunga Gallery signage 03June2014.pdf

3/06/14

2:48 PM

CMY

Image: Kate Elms Photography

CELLAR DOOR & FUNCTION ROOM Perched on the clifftops of Kangaroo Island’s stunning North Coast, the Dudley Cellar Door provides a picturesque setting for your “Island” wedding, conference or other special function. 1153 Cape Willoughby Road, Penneshaw SA 5222 Phone (08) 8553 1333 · info@dudleywines.com www.dudleywines.com.au

Interior Designs SA Designing Solutions for SA Residential, Commercial & Retail Properties

SMILING SAMOYED BREWERY

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Fri, Sat and Sun 11-6 Live music every Sunday 1pm - 4pm Hansen Street, Myponga. Telephone 8558 6166 info@smilingsamoyed.com.au www.smilingsamoyed.com.au Craft Beer • Delicious Food Friendly Atmosphere Celebrating back to back trophies for “Most Outstanding Beer in Show” at the Royal Adelaide Beer and Cider Awards 2015 and 2016.

Jimmy Smith’s Dairy jimmy smith’s dairy style guide

For a unique and relaxing getaway at Port Elliot: jimmysmithsdairy.com.au Ph: 0409 690 342 Mentone Road East, Port Elliot, SA (via Brickyard Road.) For a logo to be effective, it’s essential that it doesn’t change. It needs to be represented the same way over and over again. If a logo is suddenly represented in a different way (for example, a red logo suddenly becomes blue) the audience becomes confused and the strength of the brand diminishes. Repetition and consistency is the key.

This style guide is a reference for your logo, and will outline how to use elements in different circumstances.

Let’s talk hearing.

Organically grown and certified wines. Open 7 days from 11-5pm. 92 Gaffney Road, Willunga SA 5172. E: info@battleofbosworth.com.au W: www.battleofbosworth.com.au and www.springseedwineco.com.au Phone: 08 8556 2441.

  

  

Healthy aging is very dependent on good hearing. We risk our social skills if we cannot communicate. A hearing test is simple and informative. Mary Trowbridge Audiologist 187 Main Rd Mclaren Vale M: 0411 779 916 mary@fleurieuhearing.com.au www.fleurieuhearing.com.au

B.-d. Farm Paris Creek, 100% Australian, family owned multiaward winning dairy company. Premium biodynamic-organic milks, yogurts, quark, butter, French Style soft and European hard cheeses. Quality milk from grass fed, free range cows … REAL MILK. Enjoy!

www.bdfarmpariscreek.com.au Ph: 8338 3339

The Local Ad Page Jeremy Gale PA I N T I N G & PA P E R H A N G I N G Domestic & Commercial

T: 0418 482 781

E: jgalepaintingpapering@hotmail.com 58 Victoria Street, Victor Harbor · 8552 3588 Find us at coastallandscapesandfencing.com.au or on Facebook

Licence BLD246395

Award winning, South Australian, cool climate, extra virgin olive oils. Nangkita Olives 2250 Bull Creek Road, Tooperang, South Australia 5255 T: 0419 804 896 E: olives@nangkita.com.au W: nagkita.com.au

gallery studio If you love art, visit John Lacey’s contemporary gallery/studio and meet this award winning artist. Originals and prints. Open most days 11am - 5pm. 41 Woodcone Rd Mt Compass. T: 8556 8388 M: 0419 823 708 W: johnlacey.com.au

Relax in front of the fire with a wine and enjoy the views. Food served all day. Angas Plains Wines Cellar Door 317 Angas Plains Rd, Langhorne Creek Tel: 08 8537 3159 info@angasplainswines.com.au www.angasplainswines.com.au

small batch winery and cider maker for 20% off your first online order visit

mccarthysorchard.com.au/twenty we’re at the willunga farmers market & Wayville FM each weekend. We use organic fertilisers and rock minerals, without pesticides.

‘Fish, to taste good, must swim three times in water, in crème fraiche, and in wine.’ - Proverb Our Crème Fraiche is made by adding a culture (special bacteria) to our fresh Pure Jersey Cream. A pot set, naturally matured, thickened sour cream using cultures. It has a subtle tangy, slightly nutty flavour and rich, velvety texture. 27 % minimum fat. Available in 500ml tub.

OPEN 5 DAYS THURSDAY TO MONDAY 11AM 5PM FOR TASTINGS & SALES 88

alexandrinacheese.com.au

#alexcheeseco

SOCIAL PAGES

Being Social: Sellicks Beach Historic Races Sellicks Beach was a site for motorcycle racing for nearly a hundred years, until the last official race was held there over three decades ago. The recent recreation of the historic race drew vintage bike lovers and motorsport enthusiasts en masse.

Being Social: Fleurieu Fringe The second annual Fleurieu Fringe blasted off in style at Port Noarlungaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sauerbier House. A solid lineup of performers over five weekends was complemented by fabulous local food and wine. The colourful, vibrant and creative energies of Kylea Hartley and Tanya Gurney (organisers) were acknowledged with an award for one of the best events of the Fleurieu Fringe.

01: Simon David and Tara Wachtel 02: Corbin Danylycha and Michelle Henery 03: Deb and Steve Farrell 04: Courtney McFarlane with Pearl and Simon Boerth 05: Luke Brooks and Matea Gluscevic 06: Hayley and Andrew Mitchell with Jesse Mallia 07: Kylea Hartley and Tanya Gurney 08: Loren Kate 09: Simon Bryant and Rachael Foreman 10: Kendall Deane and Nick Fed with Eddie 11: Keitha Young and Steff Biggins 12: Hayley and Lee Cooper with Jaimie and Halliday.

SOCIAL PAGES

Being Social: Fall From Grace: Heroines Soul to Glass FLM joined a large crowd at one of the fantastic events on offer during Tasting Australia. Heroines Soul to Glass on Friday, May 5 celebrated all of the amazing South Australian women in wine. Woman, it was good!

01: Agi Gajic and Beth Bicknell 02: Karen Bubna-Litic and Janet Freeman 03: Corrina Wright and Jessica Hodge 04: Caleigh Hunt and Rachel Sutter 05: Kate Doyle and Lindsey McEwen 06: Ben MacMahon, Kerri Thompson and Katie Spain 07: Esther Thorn, Petra de Mooy and Nina Keath (feeling no pain) 08: Alexia Roberts and Jodie Armstrong 09: Emily McCourt and Victoria Schwarz 10: Amanda Remoso, Agi Gajic and Sarah Lyons 11: Enjoying Heroines Soul to Glass hosted by Fall from Grace in Aldinga.

SOCIAL PAGES

Being Social: Nangkita Olivesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Open Day It was a festive atmosphere at Nangkita Olivesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Open Day on Sunday, May 7. Attendees enjoyed live music, a spit roast, wood oven pizza, local wine and Nangkita Olives and olive oil. It made for a lovely autumnal day out for the family.

Being Social: Fleurieu Aquatic Centre Opening FLM attended the public launch of the Fleurieu Aquatic Centre at Hayborough on April 2. This impressive building and its surrounding grounds are a fantastic new asset to both Victor Harbor and the Alexandrina Council areas.

01: Katrina Bisanju and Geordan Ellins 02: Paul Eblen and Jon Lovejoy 03: Judy MacDonald and Barbara Turner 04: Kathy and Michael Harbison 05: Geordan Ellins and Will Bonnin 06: The band: OpenHouse 07: Adrian Pederick, Victoria MacKirdy and Mayor Keith Parkes 08: Nicohlas Hayles, Mayor Graham Philp, Graeme Maxwell and David Cooke 09: Adam Wright with Tom and Kelly Gregory 10: Margaret Terrell and Saralee Aufderheide 11: Rob Henderson and Moira Jenkins 12: Emma Wood and Karen Rokicinski.

SOCIAL PAGES

Being Social: Willunga Waldorf School Autumn Fair This annual event just gets better and better. Live entertainment, kids’ activities, fabulous food stalls and plenty of art and craft for all to enjoy.

Being Social: Willunga Farmers Market turns 15 On Saturday, February 25 a legion of market fans was in attendance for the 15th anniversary of the Willunga Farmers Market. Cooking demonstrations, a festive atmosphere and great weather made it a huge success. We at FLM love the market and are there almost every Saturday to support local farmers and producers – but more importantly to buy the freshest and most ethically produced food available.

01: Rebecca Aitken, Scotty B and Will Cheesman 02: Renee Haskett and Rebecca Murray 03: Kate Hanson and Sarah Hollway 04: Esther Thorn and Sarah Adams 05: Sally Cairns and Karen Jones 06: MP Leon Bignell and Angela Lisman 07: Bill Boyle and David Montgomery 08: Sue March and Joanne Gamlin 09: Jim Casey and Kate Doyle with Arlo 10: Jenni Mitton and Richard Bennett 11: Bessie Humphreys, Chantelle Harrison and Eliza MacDonald-Hall 12: Richard Casley–Smith.

Kangaroo Island

KIDS GO

FREE!

FREE*

Return ferry travel for up to two kids! Quote KIDSFREE when booking.

*Conditions apply. Child 3 - 14 years. Must travel with one or two adults and a vehicle. Travel to 31 August 2017.

Call 13 13 01 or visit sealink.com.au Illustration by Chris Edser.

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