Fashion Photography Exposed Melissa Rodwell Interview
GAGA Models
Top Agency Interview
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TEAM Director Samson Ogunshe Creative Director Don Horne
CONTENTS 04 08 18 24 26 28 38 42 48 54 56 64 70 74 82 88 96
Editorial / Kristoffer SkjĂŚringrud Interview / Melissa Rodwell Editorial / Falling out of reality Event / Fashion Innovation Awards Interview / Courtney Smith Editorial / We Are Young Article / Success in the fashion industry Editorial / You Are Gold Editorial / Period Retro Event / London Fashion Week Editorial / Augenblicklich Editorial / Morning Black Interview / GAGA Models Editorial / Baroque Beauties Editorial / A Deep Notion Article / The Evolution of Fashion Spotlight / Featured Photographers
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editorial / ksfoto.net
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KRISTOFFER Skjรฆringrud ksfoto.net Model / valerie Hair / sandra nirbrant Makeup / sonja christin pedersen & moa Engstrรถm
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interview / Melissa Rodwell
fashion photography exposed Interview / Melissa Rodwell
AFTER GRADUATING FROM THE ART CENTER COLLEGE OF DESIGN MELISSA RODWELL EMBARKED ON A GLOBE-SPANNING CAREER AS A FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER. SHE HAS LIVED AND WORKED ALL OVER THE WORLD, PHOTOGRAPHING FOR RALPH LAUREN, NIKE, COCA COLA, HONDA, NBC TELEVISION, AND DELL COMPUTERS. HER EDITORIAL ASSIGNMENTS HAVE LEAD TO HER BEING PUBLISHED IN HARPERS BAZAAR, KURV, JIMON, FLAUNT, AND MEN, GENLUX, AND PLAYBOY. SIMULTANEOUSLY, MELISSA RODWELL HAS HAD NUMEROUS SOLO EXHIBITIONS IN AMSTERDAM, SYDNEY, LOS ANGELES, AND MIAMI. IN 2008, RODWELL STARTED THE FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY BLOG. IN A SHORT TIME, HER BLOG ACQUIRED A LARGE FOLLOWING OF SUBSCRIBERS AND READERS. MELISSA SHARES HER KNOWLEDGE OF FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY AND GIVES HER READERS AN INSIDE LOOK AT THE COVETED WORLD OF FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY. MELISSA RODWELL LIVES IN NEW YORK CITY WITH HER PIT BULL MIA.
Tell us about a day in the life of Melissa Rodwell. My mornings are when I center myself. I’m normally an early riser so I get up around the time the sun comes up. I try to not check my email or grab my iPhone because I don’t want to immediately dive into the world “out there” just quite yet. I go for a walk with my dog and meditate on how grateful I am to be alive and healthy. I think of all the things I’m thankful for. My friends, my work, my ability to create what I do, the freedom I have in all things in my life. I believe that gratitude is really important to stay really focused on. It alleviates depression and that general feeling that “it’s never enough”. When I’m back from my walk, then I make coffee and sit down at my massive 30” old school Mac monitor and look at the massive amounts of email that have come in through the night. Some are annoying, some are great news and others are spam just trying to sell me another product to make me believe that if I buy it, then I will be utterly happy.
Growing up, did you always know you wanted to be a photographer, if so who were you influenced by? Growing up I knew that I wanted to involved in fashion. I just didn’t know what aspect I wanted to be in. I was 17 when I discovered fashion photography. Helmut Newton’s work was what inspired me to pursue fashion
What interesting projects have you worked on recently or about to shoot? I am just beginning to work on a very personal project that I don’t want to go into. It’s been on my mind and in the development stages for years now. That’s all I can say. It has nothing to do with fashion photography.
Provide us some illustrations of how your work have transformed over the years? As I’ve grown as a photographer, so has my reputation. I’ve gotten better and been published in better magazines. So therefore I am now able to work with more accomplished talent as far as stylists and hair and make up artists. And models. The whole team is responsible for the ability to capture great images. When you’re working with a killer team, you are better guaranteed killer results.
People usually just see the final product – But behind the scenes things can go wrong and take longer than expected – How do you deal with the stress of time management or something going wrong during a big shoot. I’ve always been somewhat laid back. I’m not a screamer or a Diva. When shit goes awry, I usually use humor to keep everyone’s spirits up, even if I feel like ringing someone’s neck. My personal opinion has no place on a set. If I am working with a difficult person, I do my best to overlook the Diva performance of that individual and get the shots we need for that shoot and then I just never work with that person again. Some things are unavoidable. I was recently on a very important shoot for an Internationally recognized magazine and the hair stylist got mad at the stylist and stormed off the shoot. Instead of freaking out and rolling into the fetal position in the corner of the studio, we had a good laugh at how ridiculous the guy acted and then jumped on our feet to figure out how to get around the fact that we had no hair stylist. WE ended up using material as head wraps and the shoot was successful. So successful that the editor used all the shots we produced for the editorial, giving us more pages than we originally planned on getting. So it all worked out in the end.
You have a crazy amount of great editorials shot for different magazines – What would you say is your favorite shoot you have done and why? What was your main inspirations in that shoot? That’s a tough one to answer. I always say my next shoot is my favorite shoot. It’s impossible to pinpoint my absolute all time favorite shoot. There’s been a few. My first shoot for KURV magazine in Australia is still one of my favorites.
If you could make anything where budgets, resources or time in not an obstacle, what would it be? I would love to shoot some ridiculously crazy video shoots on location. But we’re talking big budgets. One day!
Where do you normally source your models from? I use modeling agencies to source my models. Next, Major, Fusion, Ford, Wilhelmina, One Management. I use the best!
Professional photographers have procedures in place to ensure their pictures are not mediocre this might include a team of people working towards your shoot; discuss in depth the manpower involved to organizing a shoot. And lessons learned from the past or advice you’ve received. Well like I said previously, I am dependent on a great team to pull off the end results I want. So in other words, I can put together a great shoot and let’s say the hair and make up artist are insanely talented and the clothing is amazing but the model is weak, the whole shoot is pulled down by that. I have had to really think out my shoots in the pre-production phase. I try to meet the models before I shoot them to see if there’s a connection or if they can emote. Even then I can be surprised by someone being awesome at a casting and then just a brat on the shoot. It’s not fool-proof but I try to be as prepared as possible and foresee any possible hiccups that might come up. I look at the what if’s and not leave anything to chance.
What separate you from other photographers? My strong suit is my love for moody, dark, sensual imagery. It’s what I “see” and it’s what I love to shoot. So I don’t delude myself by trying to market myself as a “Jack of all Trades” by showing a lot of catalogue work, even though, yes of course I shoot catalogue. But fashion lifestyle isn’t my thing and I don’t attempt to try to “shoot it all” just so I can get more gigs. For instance, I’m pretty lousy at shooting fashion shows. So I stay out of that realm. But put a 10 page editorial on my lap and tell me I can shoot what I want, well then I’m in my element and the sky is the limit.
You recently released a great Fashion Photography DVD Can you give our readers a bit more information on it please. Fashion Photography Exposed is a DVD I put together with my business partner in 2010 and released in 2011. It’s an educational DVD about fashion photography. I cover everything from the equipment I use to some standard lighting set ups for fashion and beauty shoots. I also cover business advice and I conduct some interviews with leading industry people like a fashion editor and a modeling booker. I also show some of my work and how I shot it.
For more information on Melissa Rodwell & her work / DVD, Please visit her sites. Portfolio
www.melissarodwell.com
Fashion Photography Blog
www.fashionphotographyblog.com
Fashion Photography Exposed DVD www.fashionphotography.com
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editorial / Falling out of reality
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falling out of reality Photographer / Jen Miyako Styling / HollyJane Cornell Makeup / Inna Mathews Hair Stylist / Lorenzo Diaz Model / Emily Arnold @ Look Model Agency Styling Assistant / Aisha Drake Assistant / Evelyn Choi Wardrobe Credits: Bora Han / City Style House / Collar by Holly Jane & Aisha Drake / Zana Bayne
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events / Fashion Innovation Awards
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Galway City will play host to the ultra glamorous Goldenegg Fashion Innovation Awards again this year, with the glittering ceremony taking place on Thursday 28 March 2013 at the Radisson Blu Hotel. Last year’s event wowed guests as the Irish fashion industry’s up-and-coming talent showcased their show-stopping designs in what has now become the fashion event of the year. Exciting collections from award winning designers throughout 6 categories, including designs from fashion colleges will be shown at the Awards ceremony which was a sell-out success last year. The Goldenegg Fashion Innovation Awards sponsored by Lancôme, Hartmanns of Galway, Brown Thomas, Radisson Blu Hotel & Spa Galway, and Galway County and City Enterprise Board is the only such platform for young designers in Ireland. The prestigious awards give visibility, support and a voice to young design talent throughout Ireland, offering a fantastic opportunity for their work to be shown to a jury made up of fashion design experts. “Designer of the Year” 2012, Natalie B Coleman has enjoyed huge success since the show last year. Her label has been featured extensively in magazines and periodical’s both nationally and internationally such as Harpers Bazaar, Dutch Vogue, Glamour, Company and Marie Claire. Natalie has dressed Irish stars such as Kathyrn Thomas, Sharon Corr, Charlene McKenna and Laura Whitmore as well as the amazing MaryJ Blige, PJ Harvey, Esperanza Spalding, Marina and The Diamonds and many others. Special Guest Collection Finale – Delphine Grandjouan The House of Delphine offers couture bridal wear by award winning designer Delphine Grandjouan. French-born, Kerry-based Delphine is the recipient of the last two Irish Brides Magazine, Bridal Designer of the Year Awards and of the Kerry Designer Award. The 2013 Bridal collection focuses mainly on the pure and ethereal 20’s style of beauty, with delicate combinations of floating chiffon drapes and figure hugging satins and laces. Delphine will showcase her amazing designs as the closing finale to the show with her stunning eveningwear and bridal collection.
28th March 2013 - Galway, Ireland Tickets Available on the website www.goldenegg.ie/events/about-the-awards
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interview / Courtney Smith
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Courtney Smith Tell us what a day in the life of Courtney Smith is like. A day In the life is hard to describe….there’s never one day that’s the same. Right now I am sitting in House of Colour hair salon getting my hair blow dried for London Fashion week and my flight leaves in a few hours (I’m still not packed as I only returned from New York fashion week yesterday) so its all a bit manic. But this is a rare treat to get my hair done! Yesterday after I landed I filmed 2 xpose features and then pulled clothes for a feature for U magazine. It constantly changes… next week I have a bridal shoot one day, a mens suit company shoot another day and pulling for my next abroad location shoots.
You were labelled a fashion junkie because of your love for clothes and fashion, who were some of your style Icons growing up? I didn’t really have any particular style icons as a youngster; I used to love Saved by the Bell and Clarissa 80’s tv shows and I suppose in ways that influenced my style growing up. But I was always very experimental and luckily for me, my mum let me express my style however I wanted.. Even if that meant love-heart sunglsees and neon leggings with tie dye tshirts.
You have dressed some of the best known celebrities, what are common mistakes one can make dressing a celebrity? As with most things in fashion it’s all about collaboration. Its about talking through looks and seeing what works on people.. This counts whether its personal styling or shoot concepts. I think the biggest mistakes are when a celebrity lets a stylist dress them and has no input themselves… You can always tell when its not someones personal style, they look uncomfortable.
After graduating from college of Fashion Design, you were a finalist in the UCD (University College Dublin) young designer awards in 2007. How did that experience change your life as a fashion student? Honestly, I don’t think it had a major effect on me. At the time the pressure to get the finished look done was a lot and great to learn to work under that type of environment and prepared me for the work I do today which is always very time restricted. But there are a lot of fashion student competitions in Ireland and there was no need to let yourself get caught up in it, there were plenty of talented designers in my class who got even further in other compeitions.
You decided to start your own fashion styling career, what or who pushed you to make such a move? It was a natural progression; I was getting frustrated in college when designing as it took so long to get to the fiished product and I like seeing results quickly not waiting months. But loved doing photoshoots with all the collections so the fashion history tutor suggested I pursue a different path In fashion styling or photography. So I applied to London College of Fashion and got into a post-graduate course in Fashion Media, which had a strong emphasis on styling. It was there I honed my skills, got a job after in a top London Boutique as manager and stylist and after 6 months moved back to Ireland to start freelance styling for magazines and TV.
What is the most interesting part of your job and why? I love all aspects of my job… My favourite part has to be fashion editorials and campaigns though as you see creative collaborations come to life in print.
Some of your client include Hello! Skinny Jeans, BT2, Brown Thomas, Penneys, River Island, Adidas and Fran & Jane, how do you make and maintain great relationships with major clients? You need to have a business head aswell as a creative one. I work closely with the owners and PRs of the brands and work with their needs and requests. If you deliver a job to their specification then you get the repeat business. Simple As.
Where do you find inspiration from when choosing colour & style combination for a particular fashion show or a fashion photo shoot? Everywhere! It depends on the season , the brief, the mood, the concept and most importantly the client and the audience. For example: U magazine shoots would have more highstreet fashion, appeal to an age group of 20 – 35, be bright and fun, and be on the pulse of fashion trends. Then say it’s a March Issue you might incorporate pastels or an Easter theme. It s very much dependent on so many factors as to where you pull your inspiration from.
You appear as a regular fashion contributor on top TV3 entertainment shows; “Xpose” & “Ireland AM” and you seem to work with so much elegance and a sense of calm that puts everyone at ease, including the audience! On one level, this is just being professional and a very essential quality for a good stylist. Is this something you’ve worked at over the years or it’s who you are off camera? And what other qualities do you think are essential? Why thank you!! I am just me on camera, I’m not acting I am just describing a look I put together so it all comes very naturally. Obviously I used to be nervous when I first started but I have been doing it over four years now so I am comfortable on camera and know the presenters I work with so its easy to come across well on screen.
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editorial / We Are Young
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Styling / eunice abe Makeup / anca condrache Hair Stylist / emma stafford Creative Director / Samson Ogunshe Models / Niámh Cunningham / Stephen edgar / charlene wang / chinedum arize Wardrobe Credits / A Wear / Coast / Lily’s Kloset / Optica / Claire’s Accesories
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Article / Success in the fashion industry
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Success in the fashion industry Amber Leigh Doyle
For many a fashion-forward, glittering life of excess, jet-setting and shining lights is the true meaning of success. For a growing number of people the dream of working in fashion is a glamorous and, essentially, beaming beacon of perfection to strive toward; however the fashion world is not to be entered lightly, a burning sense of ambition, drive and creativity must be coasting through your veins if you are to succeed in such a dog-eat-dog environment. In recent years, the growing interest in fashion has coincided with the expansion of the industry through social media, mass-marketing and communication. The growth of technology, mass-media and mass-communication has allowed many people world-wide to have access to a range of mediums that share photographic imagery, information and so forth. Due to the rapid flow of consumerism and rates of production fashion has become more accessible to the vast majority of people and the industry is growing stronger each day. The mass-media tends to flaunt the fashion industry as a rose-tinted sphere of creativity, flair and sexuality. However, this idealised depiction tends to blur the commanding qualities required for the fashion industry. If you want to be involved in the trade then you must be competitive, goal-orientated and entirely self-motivated. This career is fast-paced and challenging; there is no time for dilly-dallying as fashion never sleeps and, unfortunately, deadlines never disappear. If you are a flexible, confident multi-tasker you will do exceptionally well. In order to be successful, you must know how to manage your time and prioritise. A noteworthy piece of advice is to allocate time to network with potential contacts and clients via social gatherings, business meetings, industry events and social media sites. In order to show the main characteristics and tips for each area of fashion, I have divided the following in to a number of sub-categories. Each of these contains important information concerning different areas of interest in the industry and helpful tips for succeeding in your field of expertise.
Fashion Photographer Fashion photographers are often portrayed as arrogant, overtly sexual and drug-infused neurotics on the big-screen. Their creativity and passion is often captured on film in an over-the-top sensual manner which instantly appeals to mass audiences. However in the harsh light of the day Hollywood movies are fictional and this is real life. Fashion photography is not something to be entered into with a false hope of achieving all that glitters in a matter of weeks. If you want to enter this profession then be aware that fashion shoots can be strenuous working environments which require long hours of hard work and strict organisation skills. In order to succeed in the industry you have to stand out against the crowd. Famous fashion photographers such as Terry Richardson, David LaChapelle and Tim Walker all have something in common; they stay true to their personal style. The reason behind their success is straight-forward: they think outside the box and are not afraid to be different. This is important in the fashion industry and truly cements an individual within the realm of creativity.
These photographers adhere to their clients’ requirements; however they each have a particular style which they bring to the fore in their work. A signature sense of style is a key element in generating interest from industry experts; if you know how to incorporate your own personal trademark style while sticking to your client’s brief, then you are already paving your path to success. Fashion shoots should be well organised and planned to the last detail. As a fashion photographer you must be able to decipher between high-fashion, editorial and catalogue in relation to poses, lighting, composition and model selection. A good fashion photographer is fully capable of directing a model in order to achieve a look suitable for a client. For you to be successful in this field you must be fully aware of the current and future fashion climate and fully engage with client’s requirements. If you want to be successful then you must be aware of multiple forms of advertising, marketing and branding associated with the industry and their current client.
Fashion Designer As a fashion designer you must possess a highly creative and ambitious flair. This field of work requires intense and long hours. Personal attributes, such as a competitive streak, enhance the drive, ambition and professionalism required to work to client deadlines and work in stressful, challenging atmospheres. In order to achieve a high degree of success in this significant segment of the fashion industry, you must possess strong drawing, sketching and presentation skills. You must be able to visualise the garment you wish to create and capture this imagined silhouette successfully on paper. A good designer will be able to envision the manner in which the garment sits on the body and will have a vast knowledge and true understanding of textures, colours and fabrics. Contemporary fashion has settled into a rose-tinted love-affair with the past. In recent years retro and vintage clothing and accessories have taken the fashion world by storm. This nostalgic regurgitation of a previous era’s trends, fads and elements of dress has resulted in a static form of reinvention.
This stagnant decay of times past needs to be rejuvenated with creativity and allure. Designers who stand out are the risk-takers of the industry; those who stay true to their sense of identity and personal style. Designers such as Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood have easily identifiable, and thus admirable, trademark visual elements which reflect their personal taste in each of their collections. If you want to stand out against the grain you must push the boundaries while staying true to your own personal style. In order to progress in this field, you must research and develop an in-depth knowledge of designers, fashion industry experts and media relations and understand the fashion forecast. As a designer you need to possess excellent communication skills, not only for self-promotion and liaising at social events, but also for engaging in team-work. In order to create a dynamic group work ethic and mindset, you must be able to dictate their vision and techniques in a simple and well-conducted manner. This may seem basic but, in reality, it is a characteristic many struggle with.
Model As a fashion model you are almost like a human form of branding, consumerism and marketing. Models are carefully selected to front campaigns, pose for editorials or model clothes on the runway. Each designer, photographer and magazine has a certain ‘look’ they associate with their brand, which they like to maintain to create a sense of cohesion. If you wish to be a catwalk model you must generally be of a certain height and weight in order to fit into sample size clothing. The usual minimum height for catwalk modelling is 5’ 9”, the dress size is UK 6-8 and the weight (according to height) is 108-130 lbs. These measurements are a high preference in the fashion industry; a very small percentage of ‘short’ models will be as lucky as Kate Moss and achieve non-catalogue modelling shoots. In the modelling industry, the desired measurements are 34B-24-34 and the measurement of the waist should be no more than 25 inches. However the introduction of plus-size models has expanded with designers such as Mark Fast using ‘normal’ female figures to showcase his collections on the catwalk. Curvier models such as Daisy Lowe and Crystal Renn have gained a large number of contracts in recent years. Despite this, the androgynous ‘size zero’ trend still reigns supremacy but campaigns such as Victoria’s Secret prefer models with feminine curves. The most important thing for you to remember while trying to gain entry to the fashion world is to remain physically and mentally healthy.
If you want to gain entry in to the high-fashion modelling arena, then you must take the time to analyse editorial campaigns, advertisements and high-fashion spreads. This is important since there are certain poses required for differently styled shoots. A popular look is the brokendown-doll trend which elongates the body and creates an unusual, albeit eye-catching, composition. As a model you need to know how to catch the light to complement bone-structure. You must be aware of complementary angles in relation to your own figur and the clothing you are promoting. To become a successful model you are required to be personable and friendly since you need to impress clients and be able to communicate easily with the photographer to achieve a good shot. You must take pride in your appearance and dress to suit your figure and keep up-to-date with fashion trends. First impressions are key in this industry and designers appreciate clean, glowing skin and fresh hair. A simple black fitted tee-shirt, jeans and high-heels flaunt the figure; a must-have outfit for casual meetings with modelling agencies. One word of advice is to keep your hair back if you have good bone structure and keep your makeup natural. Similar to other occupations in the fashion world, models that network and create contacts will, more often than not, go further than those who avoid doing so.
Fashion Journalist For you to gain success as a fashion journalist, you must possess a strong background in journalism or English studies. This is essential. However, it is a bonus for a fashion journalist to have a well-rounded knowledge of the fashion industry before entering the profession. You must have strategic time management skills and a comprehensive knowledge of spelling, grammar and punctuation. In order to build a successful career you should try and develop significant contacts such as editors, fellow journalists, photographers, makeup artists, stylists etc. Striving ahead in fashion journalism is quite difficult since gaining entry to an established magazine is extremely competitive. However to build your portfolio, there are many opportunities available such as writing for online publications, independent magazines and college papers, though many fashion journalists work on a freelance basis for themselves and gain great recognition. Remember freelance work is not for everyone, it requires a large amount of self-promotion, good time-management skills and a disciplined work ethic.
Confidence and an ability to self-promote are two vital characteristics associated with creating your successful career as a fashion journalist. A bubbly, friendly and out-going personality is another trait which stands out in the media sphere. As a fashion journalist you are expected to conduct comprehensive and well-planned interviews which require a great degree of confidence, vivaciousness and, of course, professionalism. Successful journalists will have experience in public-speaking and excellent communication skills. Similarly, you must possess good interpersonal skills since they must create a comforting and friendly atmosphere for the interviewee. One of the main objectives for succeeding in this field is a strong grasp of research methodologies and an ability to commit to word-counts and deadlines. In this current climate, many bloggers are associated with fashion journalism; however this is problematic as blogging and journalism are completely separate mediums in which one writes about fashion trends and they both have different expectations and require different skills.
Conclusion Fashion is constantly replicating decades past in our contemporary Postmodern society. In this season alone, the Baroque movement, Swinging Sixties and the god-awful Nineties have been given a new leash of life by the most creative and influential in the industry. This form of nostalgia and reinvention of previous trends makes the current fashion industry difficult to break into. In order to succeed, newcomers need to bring an air of individuality to these retro trends and inspire others in the fashion world. If you’re looking to gain entry into the fashion industry then you must possess the ability to break the mould, alter the old and create something unique which functions within the industry as a whole. In other words, you must possess a certain ‘aura’ in relation to your overall aesthetic, vision and persona which will stand out in the crowd. The fashion industry is a difficult field to break into; however, a good way to gain success and build your career is to actively engage in social networking. Social media accounts such as Facebook, Twitter and LinkedIn allow members to communicate with fashion insiders and industry experts. Social networking sites are helpful ways of interacting with new people and building contacts; however do not rely too heavily on this form of communication as meeting face-to-face with potential clients is also important. By agreeing to help out behind-the-scene at shoots, write for budding websites or just contacting others in your field for advice, you can meet people who will help further your career. To achieve great heights and get your name recognised you must leave your self-doubts at the door. This may sound like a cliché, but if you don’t believe in yourself who will? Remember, you are your own self-promoter and if you believe you have the strength and flair to work in a creative industry then it is up to you to make this happen. Ireland has become an energetic hub of fashion events, online fashion magazines and websites all run by media experts, entrepreneurs and those willing to put time and effort in to creating new and exciting projects for the public to enjoy. Although it may take a few years for you to get truly recognised for your hard work and commitment, if you are business-orientated, ambitious and savvy you will succeed in the industry. From analysing each of the sub-categories mentioned, it is clear to see that many of the personal attributes and prominent characteristics in each domain are interlinked. First impressions are extremely important, no matter what field you wish to enter, so personal hygiene, social behaviour and overall appearance are of great importance. Potential employers and clients will appreciate a smiling, friendly demeanour and a confident hand-shake. Remember, most people you will meet will have been in the same situation as you at some point of their career so speak clearly about your long-term goals, strengths and interests. Most importantly, research the company thoroughly before the interview so you have a clear indication of the style, target audience and techniques they use. Doing this will ensure a smooth, efficient interview process. Once you get past this first hurdle, the world is your oyster.
www.aliciatomzak.com
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editorial / You Are Gold
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You Are Gold L o u ise
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Makeup / Rae Mathieson Nail Technician / Sammy Grant Model / Natalia Kocheva Wardrobe / Topshop / H&M
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editorial / Period Retro
period retro C hris
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Model / tomas Malecki Assistant / Chris Morley
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events / London Fashion Week
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London Fashion Week Words / Federica Delprino Photos / Darren Brade / www.darrenbrade.com
Ashley Isham’s strong girls A stylist who shows their creations on a fashion stage can’t only be the creator of some good ideas, but they also have to be able to match them correctly: fascinating clothes must be embellished, adding special accessories, well balanced with the rest. And Ashley Isham managed. The models marched flaunting an amazing bun on their heads and wearing visors. It is the binding agent of the collection, in which I noticed the evolution of a very strong girl at the beginning who becomes more romantic at the end, but always keeping her self-confidence. She is always determined and independent. The show’s start has a heavy impact thanks to the mix of leather and varnish accessories (shoes, leggings, bracelets, vizors...) that are gradually diluted in different outfits. I loved this aggressive connotation present in each outfit, from the ones characterized by black and cool colours to the flower patterned ones. Ashley Isham depicts a woman who is able to put on glitters, ruffle flounces, leather knee-heeled or ankle boots all together, keeping her credibility. The fashion designer has declared that he has been inspired from the movie “Logan’s Run”, and I can see it mainly in the mini dresses which reveals a similar futuristic cut, on the other hand from the photos by Helmut Newton, he shares the provocative mood of Truly, I think that in some outfits there are too many spicy references to sadomasochistic practices, I consider the idea of strength expressed by minimal combinations better. I think that the best pieces from the collection are the coats, really original and versatile; I’d wear them every day! Also the hairstyle is an inspiration perfect for a night out and also for a special evening or for a sporty-chic look. I appreciate the fact that there are a lot of elements usable out of runways. Certainly not the visors, but they are perfect on the catwalk. Every detail is well-finished and also the more basic pieces aren’t banal: There’s always an element of asymmetry which makes creations attractive. Comparing this one with Ashley Isham’s previous collections, I can underline coherence. He always highlights the face through a special make-up or headgear; geometric elements are alternated to draped skirts. His looks struck me; but perhaps sometimes too many different features are drawn together. Nevertheless the effect is magnetic and the ensemble tells a story we want to hear.
London Fashion week Highlights Photos / Darren Brade / www.darrenbrade.com Designer / Pam Hogg
Designer / Zenep Tosun
Designer / NIAN
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editorial / Augenblicklic
Augenblicklich J u lia
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Model / Jula @ brodybookings Makeup / Suzana @ nude ageny Assistant / Morten H.-B.
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editorial / Morning Black
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Models / Francesca Turner, Kelly & Gina @ Lenis Model management Makeup / Gemma Horner Nail Team / You love nails Styling / Joey Bevan Assistant / Chris Morley
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interview / GAGA Models
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agency spotlight Interview /
Katarzyna Sawicka
What does a day-in-the-life of Katarzyna Sawicka consist of? Well, I’m the mother of a 2 years old girl, so my day begins with bringing her to the kindergarten. I’m going to the office afterwards and take care of on – going cases. There’s always so much to do! Handling the clients, contacting our partner agencies, organizing castings, checking out the new faces who enter our office, meetings with clients, negotiations, delegating tasks to my team etc. Plus my team needs me. It is newly – built and they all need my advices and help. I am also in a constant touch with my modes working abroad, they all need support, intervention sometimes. It’s difficult to handle all of this especially if we have almost 100 models right now and many of them abroad! But I can rely on my team plus, as I always say, I love my job, so the fact that every day is different and unpredictable in this branch is nothing but exciting for me!
You’re the Owner / Director of GAGA Models. Can you tell us about the agency and the models achievements while in business. Our models work all around the world. It’s amazing to see them working on biggest things, with great photographers, world-famous stylists and top agents. Our top girl Jac has been confirmed by Chanel for exclusivity for a sixth consecutive season for Chanel Cosmetics campaign. It’s an exclusive contract. The other girls, Zuzanna Stankiewicz, Joanna Kołtuniak, Basia Szkałuba, Julia Suszfalak - all of them are treading to the top step by step. And all of them can be the stars one day. I’m keen on developing all of my models, together with my team, and let them reach for the stars. I believe they are going to succeed. I know it. It’s just a matter of time.
Looking back, what’s one thing you would do differently when you first started out and what are the major reasons for your success? Well, frankly speaking – nothing. I was always pretty aware what I want to achieve in life and in my business. That’s why I can’t say I would do something differently. Well… maybe one thing. Once I hired my friend in GAGA. I thought that if we had a great understanding in a private life it will be the same in a business sphere. I was wrong and I will never do that again. You can’t combine your friends and family with functioning your own company. Major reasons for my success… I love what I do and I know what I want. This confidence together with the great positive energy from people I work with helps me to make decisions, sometimes very risky and win more on the market.
How has the fashion industry changed over the years in your opinion and where do you see things going? I think we can’t talk about particular changes that have happened in the fashion industry, because it has been changing all the time. The trends, types of beauty, even the most desired height is very different than a few years ago. For sure the environment is more and more competitive and besides the perfect measurements the girls has to be very well prepared to work.
How have your entrepreneurial motivations changed and shaped the agency since you first started? I have always wanted the best for my company and have always known that building a stable and solid company requires strong, long – term goals. It is not important to achieve a success for one season. You need to work hard and focus on a solid basis. My goals were always big, like finding and teaching the best girls and working with the most important agencies all over the world. Building GAGA’s position on the market still requires time and effort. But it’s what I love to do!
What type of decisions do you have difficulty making when it comes to scouting or releasing a model? When it comes to scouting the most obvious requirements are height and measurements of course. The face has to be interesting. Not necessarily beautiful in a popular way. I have to see “something” in the girl (or boy). Sometimes the very beautiful and interesting girl is just too short and I have a dilemma if I should try to invest in her counting of her nice face, risking with the law height or not. As for releasing a model – we try to be as much aware as we can about the particular country and market requirements, so I usually don’t have many difficulties here. Of course sometimes it showed up that I was wrong, that the trends suddenly have changed etc., but there is always something to do to fix the problematic situation.
Would your models describe you as the kind of agent who goes the extra mile? I think so I always try to make more effort than it is expected. And that is what I teach my models. The market is so competitive nowadays that besides doing what you should to be successful you need to create bigger goals than expected, look further than others and of course like your job. I love mine! GAGA has been created by myself from the very beginning and is a huge part of my life and that is why I can’t imagine treating what I do only as a daily routine or a tiring responsibility. And - that is why I just can’t act differently than going the extra mile.
www.gaga.pl
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editorial / Baroque Beauties
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Boroque beauties christi n a
lazar - sch u ler
Models / Kaitlin Chapple / Krysta Unternahrer Makeup & Hair / Elena Ismail Wardrobe Designer / April Peters @ The house gallery boutique Accessories / Forever 21
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editorial / A Deep Notion
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A deep notion B ria n
M c Namara
Models / Monika Klinavičiūtė & Evelina Urbonaitė Makeup / Daria czajka
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article / The Evolution of Fashion
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The Evolution of fashion Dana Malaescu
When Coco Chanel said “Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening” – she was foreseeing and emphasizing the very role fashion has had throughout time. Only a limited mind would suffice on the shallow appearance and label, fashion has to the less connoisseurs. Inspired by a rich and troubled past or inspiring social and cultural movements, fashion has never left the spotlight. Designers have always given us the best of their talents by looking not only into their souls but also into the legacy a past always comes with, if one seeks inspiration in it. The outcome could be infinite in terms of art and cultural movements, as it has proved so over time.
This exact 1950’s style, brilliantly depicted in today’s Mad Men series, has been a fan of inspiration for the 21st century fashion designers and big retailers. Remember Banana Republic’s last year’s Mad Man inspired collection? Are designers’ at a loss of inspiration and giving meaning to the adage “nothing is new but all is a cycle of trends and fads”?
For over 69 years art meets beauty, talent, hard work and glamour at Fashion Weeks. Having its debut in New York 1943, the 1st Fashion Week, called “Press Week” by Eleanor Lambert, was a response to the troubled and disastrous consequences of World War II in France. The success was immediate with Vogue turning attention to all designers not just from Paris, the rest being history as they say...
And it all goes on with the 1960’s hippy, rebellious, optimistic attitudes, the flower power and the street styles that were taking over and influencing the catwalks. It was new, fresh and reversed. It was the era of bright colours, psychedelic patterns, fresh innocent looks and plastic jewellery! Times were changing and people had a voice. They had role models. Joan Baez was the American folk singer that young people related to. Twiggy was the skinny model whose iconic look still inspires. History was being made right under our noses. The end of the decade had the Woodstock festival and a feeling of liberation and revolt. Nothing was shocking enough, nothing was censored. It was the Sex, Drugs and Rock and Roll era, continued in the 1970’s with a triumph of bad taste. People no longer wanted to be just optimistic and smile high on flower power rhythms, they wanted to fight, to rebel, to stand out and make a difference. The 1970’s gave us a fresh Vivienne Westwood, the mother of punk. It gave us David Bowie who proved that unisex fashion did not mean only women could look like men, but men could were makeup and glitter all the way. Everything was allowed because the best taste was bad taste.
The truth is, fashion has always been a true mirror of its time, and in all honesty, if we were to peel off today’s eccentricities or glamour (which too have a social and cultural reason for existing) we’d find ourselves at the core of this art that adorns and soothes the eyes and body. We would also, quite pleasantly discover that throughout time fashion has been the result of history. The 1929 stock market crash had its consequences on fashion and instead of creating demure, poor styles it did the exact opposite. Women wanted to shine and look glamorous, so fashion was a simple luxury with clear silk cuts and functionality. After all... the 1930’s were spent dancing away the harsh times. Hollywood showed bare backs, cleavage, fur, pearls, legs… you name it. In this time of Crazy versus Function, Coco Chanel found inspiration in her lovers’ closets and liberated women, proving it was OK to wear male trousers, men’s blazers or even jumpers from your lover’s wardrobe. The era of bright colours, psychedelic patterns, fresh innocent looks and plastic jewellery! Times were changing and people had a voice. The 1950’s trend of showing off your modern household acquisitions, was very much reflected in a woman’s style. It was her duty to look modern and beautiful. Colour coordinated outfits, in place hair, fine cuts, jewellery, lipstick, nail polish, wool jackets, knitted skirts and chiffon dresses were all paired with the very dramatic and fashionable cigarette, and of course a husband who took pride in his well kept wife and modern house.
And it all goes on with the 1960’s hippy, rebellious, optimistic attitudes, the flower power and the street styles that were taking over and influencing the catwalks. It was new, fresh and reversed. It was the era of bright colours, psychedelic patterns, fresh innocent looks and plastic jewellery! Times were changing and people had a voice.
Time has marked designers’ styles, and, though we might crave for some history being made as we speak, it is probably the very repeating and reinvented quality that our times have, that is at the very core of today’s fashion. Much like Alexander McQueen once said: “It’s a new era in fashion, there are no rules. It’s all about the individual and personal style, wearing high-end, low-end, classic labels and up-an-coming designers all together”. Just look at Fashion Week street styles, models, buyers, celebrities, bloggers, journalists and editors, they are all a fabulous chaos of all that was ever created, crazy and brand new. Plastic goes with gold, dresses go over trousers, ripped jeans 100 years old are perfectly paired with Prabal Gurung’s utterly expensive tops. Boots that pay a month’s rent are worn in summer and expensive sandals are donned in blistering cold. Fur, cellophane, denim, silk, plastic jewellery or diamonds are all in, and layered if possible.
Crazy hairstyles or plain boring ones, bare faces, sophisticated makeup or smudged mascara rule both the streets and the catwalks. What is the common rule? Everyone craves their 15 minutes of fame and for that they are wiling to go all the way on eccentricities, luxury, riches, labels and strut their stuff at fashion weeks for that one chance of being photographed and maybe appear in some magazine. Bloggers are the new journalists and editors, and, why not call it like it is, the walking billboards of our generation. With outfits that no young pocket could ever afford they are seen in front rows, with their cool attitudes and smart-phones. Editors nonchalantly make their way in expensive coats hanging off their shoulders. Stylists are there too in outfits that might or might not be the talk of the town. Before you know it this glamorous and fabulous world is at the tip of anyone’s fingers. The internet is the new media and nothing is concealed or hard to get anymore. Shows are being live-streamed, photos are published a second after they’re taken, reviews are written too fast and street styles are delivered with acid real opinions. You can find anything and everything from the catwalks, to the streets, to the backstage. Fashion’s crème de la crème is right next to you and who wore what, said what or did what gets to millions in no time. With S / S 13 FW just ending, and the industry people getting back to offices and meetings having next season’s trends in mind, all this craze has gone to sleep, leaving behind the synopsis of some great shows and collections and the trend that will have us all looking like glamorous punks, Stardust Ziggies, 1970’s Rebel Disco Queens or futuristic stylish robots. Classic and basic is still in, and so is retro and sophistication. Yet, all is reinvented, experimental and inspired by various cultures and decades. The next season is the triumph of the1960’s MOD meets the futuristic punk glamour. With some 1970’s bohemian and rebellious sex appeal, some very intricate sophistication and some clean femininity and simplicity here and there, you get the 2013 season. It is probably this very lack of one trend that makes this mixing and slight chaos possible for S / S 13. All in all, next season will be about letting your hair down a bit more often, having fun and feeling relaxed. With a few changes that were bound to be the talk of the town and were much awaited for by fashion critics and journalists, Paris FW was announced by Women Wear Daily publication to be a “Paris Face Off” or “The Battle Of The Champions”, through talents and creations of course, with main protagonists Raf Simons for Dior and Heidi Slimane for Saint Laurent. The press and editors adored this creation and talent competition which had the fashion world’s opinions divided. Whilst critics were praising Dior, buyers felt the collection was hard to understand and lacked cohesion. Except for some first and last looks that had modernized jackets and shimmering full-skirts, buyers were disappointed and concerned. With Saint Laurent it was exactly the opposite, critics were not too blown away by a show that was too constrained by the codes of the house, or as ‘Women Wear Daily’ “ puts it, “Interesting to the point of odd”. ‘The Telegraph’ Lisa Armstrong said “the show lacked frisson of the unexpected, that challenging jolt that only a really strong show delivers”. Yet women and buyers were ecstatic with a collection of chiffon dresses, leather trousers and cropped blazers.
Known for mixing established designers, with the new wave of talents and edgy modern looks, New York was again a perfect melange of consumerism with business and art, of old with the new. With a range of extremely famous creative designers it opens the month of fashion and delivers to its standards and name. Following the USA fashion capital, comes London with its artsy fashion forward collections, setting the trends and tone for what is about to come, fashion wise. Paris is utterly important and not to be missed for anything in the world, and Milan will always be the quintessence of femininity, glamor and sophistication, though this year it raised a lot of eyebrows, as people complained “that the schedule was too tight”or “the shows are too packed” and “there’s only one big show to watch”. It was also held a little responsible for lacking a boost of fresh creativity that comes with new names. Once the FW ends, the big question that lingers on the lips of buyers, women, stylists, celebrities and the consumer market is: what are we wearing next season? What shall we buy, display and be in tune with? Is the ‘all-is-permitted-rule’ truly genuine? A simple look at the array of S / S 2013 trends quickly reveals a big ‘Yes’ to that. Never have we had so many trends, so piled and so mixed, with enough room for personal styles and experimentation. It is fun, laid back, crazy, young and effortless. METALLIC FUTURISTIC TREND was prevalent with quite a few designers. Burberry replaced the classic fabrics of coats and trenches with cellophane and splashed metallic bright and neon electric shades over his outfits. It was architectural, futuristic and new, in both the actual clothes as in the live streaming of the show and the technological digital approach. As Christopher Bailey put it ”People are stopping work to watch. (…) You’ve got to give them a good reason.”. It all evolved around ‘‘corsets and capes”... and of course the trench - reinvented, redesigned, nipped and tucked and so casually thrown over sexy knickers or bathing suits in textures that reminded us of disco balls and 1970’s queens. Neon shades and delicious pinks all ruched in satin textures, leathers, lace, feathers and plastic constructed the new ‘British Glamour‘. An exquisite collection inspired by the 1940’s shorts, peplums, pencil skirts and wedges. It’s worth applauding and saluting this neon discotheque of kitsch meets art revolution in intense colors, electric pinks and marine shades. Who ever said tradition was boring clearly never met Christopher Bailey. In New York, Diane von Furstenberg’s collection had the Metallic Futuristic vibe given to it, as much by the 5th fifth element of clothes, as by the cameras inside the show, on models’ eyes. While she stayed true to her signature colour blocking and prints, her collection dipped into three main trends: the futuristic metallic one, the neon colours one and the 1960’s influence. If Jonathan Saunders show had 1970’s disco written all over it, the designer gave true edge and modern vibe to it, through fabrics of the next century. Metallic textures and cellophane looks reigned, and according to Saunders it was ”the hardest collection I’ve ever done”. It was a show of colour on leather, laminate printed fabrics, cellophane textures, skin-looking tops and sci-fi metallic items. Though Prada’s was a Japanese inspired show, her collection was the spitting image if the 22nd century geisha, with strong lines, futuristic cuts and textures. She used colors like green, pastels, pink, white, red and black, and managed through all this labyrinth of trends and styles to keep a spiritual, dark and sci-fi feeling.
Fendi’s 2013 S / S 13 collection was a futuristic, cubist and architectural one. Strong shoulders and shapes, explosive mixes of leather and fur, and graphic cuts gave his designs a clean chic feeling overall. The cyberspace inspired show at Junya Watanabe had a boost of neon mixed with black and designers at Commes Des Garcones used metallics and futuristic pieces in a somewhat claustrophobic manner. Paco Rabanne ticked quite a few trends himself with his collection (covering girly, feminine and dominatrix styles) but was overall a master of metallic and futuristic trend, in a very glamorous but soft collection. One trend that was surely making a statement and will be a big mark in next season’s stores, editorials and streets was the 1960’s MOD TREND. Marc Jacobs, the man responsible for this new trend and craze delivered a fabulous show and collection for both brands: Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton. His collection was about pop culture, keeping it simple, yet swirling us around on stripes: vertical, horizontal, mixed and matched. All was topped by leather, smudged mascara, few sequins and explosions of black and white. No embellishment was used, no unnecessary frills but rather bare fashion. A 1960’s inspired yet so very modern collection that had one short line as its programme note: “Ruby Jean, T-shirt, short”. Indeed it was this simple but this fashion forward. A brilliant compromise between the high class women of the early 1960’s and the free spirit of the girls a few years ahead. In a sea of stripes, the leopard printed dress appeared breathtaking, same as the long stripes on the column one which stunning in its simplicity. The mix of beautiful inspirations at Marchesa, 1960’s being amongst these, with a touch of Byzantine Era and Oriental Fairytale made possible a collection which will be of great reference in the next season. Jenny Peckham took a plunge into 1960’s Las Vegas and wooed us with sheath dresses exquisitely decorated with beads, sequins and crystals, being dazzling and glamorous all the way. Michael Kors’s collection was absolutely stunning, packed with digital prints, stripes, bold blocks of colour, metallic buckles and black and white. It made quite the fashion statement with its “geometric glamour” as someone put it after the show. Though Oscar de la Renta may be regarded as the designer of ‘politics‘, he defied all rules and classic limits with his S / S 2013 collection. A display and play of leather, latex, thigh-high slits or shorts had the runway looking like a 1960’s inspired cosmopolitan live fashion editorial with pieces to suit both first ladies and Hollywood stars. Any woman with a taste for lace, embroidery, color-block, textures and cuts will love Oscar’s collection. With minimalist day ensembles and flowers that seemed to have been exquisitely stuck on tops, it was a show not to be missed. The retro vibe, so very much sought after and captured this season, was present with a sassy twist. It was a show where the business woman met the sizzling coquette. Inspired by the 1960’s jetset was Gucci too, who had models in1960’s and 1970’s monochromatic flowy feminine and elegant outfits, strutting the catwalk and looking fabulous. It was a fluid and architectural collection with strong bold colours. At Moschino we encountered the same1960’s motifs, with stripes, geometry, and monochromatic looks in clean colourful cuts. Though this collection was flower-power oriented it did not lack in glamour, sophistication, big earrings and metalics. Dolce & Gabanna had a story to tell from back in the day, the 1960’s Sicily of happy times and memories of once being a tourist in a Sicilian village or spending the day by the beach in South Italy.
Historical pictures that formed coloured busy prints, artisan jewellery and raffia bags took us all to a much sunnier laid back time and place. For his S / S 13 collection Givenchy presented his vision of the next season: a 1960’s duality, feminine but strong, hard while soft, sweet and passionate. Louis Vuitton could not have gone a different way than the 1960’s. Square and graphic prints of a checkerboard, sleek and monochromatic outfits defined his collection. An inspiration as important was the 1970’s INVASION TREND. Jonathan Saunders’ collection put the exclamation point on that with his mix of futuristic metalics. His models with vampire lustful dark red lips, aviator / grunge sunglasses looked like 1970’s punk style icons. The designer did confess ”I was thinking about Michael Clark’s disco girl”. With bias-cut slip dresses, glossy lips, tousled hair and sequins, Saunder’s girl was like a sexy wild child with a bit of art inside her. At Roksanda Ilinci it was a Northern Soul heyday with a catwalk invaded by lady like yet relaxed women, in loose flowy dresses, oversized clothes, bishop sleeves, long hems, fluid lines and high waists. Her woman has just had it with body hugging cuts and can’t be bothered to dress like a high-class lady. Instead, we discover and love this woman in loose clothes, that leave enough room for her free spirit and her 1970’s diva persona who doesn’t give a damn about looking hot, yet succeeded nonetheless. A 1970’s bohemian style with fringes, large trousers, South American garb in barrettes and flowy tea-length skirts was Ralph Lauren’s exquisite collection of cowboy meets Latin looks. Whereas at Anna Sui it was an all mean, rock and roll and Sex Pistols collection, clearly inspired by the 1970’s East Village, The Clash and Victorian punk, with episodes of Baroque heavy details, black and gold, alien feeling, zippers and leopard prints. Fun to watch and indeed quite fun to try on next season. Other designers of this trend include Issa London, Acne, Gucci, Saint Laurent or Isabel Marant, with the latter showcasing a collection that was pure summer, fun, casual and bohemian. She kept it all 1970’s inspired and took a bit from Elvis Presley and Rolling Stones, yet managed to give it a feminine vibe. Prints, beads, jewelry and colors reigned. Well, it was more white and black with splashes of red, but amazing altogether. The retro inspiration, so very much dissected, nipped and tucked for the past ten years still had plenty of room and apparently enough left material for reinvention and inspiration to stir up the MODERN RETRO TREND. Donna Karan had 1950’s inspired fitted tops and full bottom dresses, showcasing a simple classic collection of dusted colors, austere fashion yet elegant and fluid at some point. With Zac Posen’s collection we were taken straight to Studio 54, and swirled around on a 1940’s retro vibe and old school feel that made us all stare in awe. Having Naomi Campbell and Karolina Kurkova on the catwalk, you knew it was bound to be good. The silk crepe evening jumpsuit, the patchwork floral dresses, the tulle bustier and wide leg satin trousers were all pieces to keep an eye on. All the evening gowns were duchess vibe and beauty all over. UK’s designer Temperley London looked into the 1950’s lifestyle and fashion to get inspired, and had the runway flooded with Sophia Loren look a likes, all in scarlet, pale blues, whites, navies, floral appliques, organza, tulle, ribbon skirts, satin thick horizontal stripes alternated with sheer texture, white lace or digital prints. She artfully combined the bohemian style with the embellished pieces for the middle class and West London woman.
Thee talk of the town, before and after her show, was none other than Vivienne Westwood Red Label collection, inspired too by the 1950’s, an age of austerity when fashion was the last thing on your mind, yet never taken for granted for that matter. She came up with quite a lady like collection of cocktail dresses, big heavy pearls, pink silk jacquard skirts, twinsets, wool, gloves, and to top it all, the models’ faces were painted entirely in different colors: pink, red, orange, blue, green. With big vulgar, yet oh-so-feminine flowers or hats and cool hair-dos it was the talk of the week. Of course huge timeless brands such as Burberry inspired themselves from the 1940’s glam fashions and gave some of the outfits a retro modern feel. The same happened with Botega Venetta’s show of sublime femininity and duality: sweet and tough, soft and strong. Using leather, appliques, fluidity, tiny prints and bold shoulders he gave a modern vibe to his 1940’s inspired outfits. Miu Miu went a decade ahead and was all 1950’s fur and glamour, while at Valentino the show was a cinematic display of beauty. His models looked like 1940’s ladies who strolled the streets of Rome in World War II. The leather trench coats, the flowy feminine basic austere monochromatic pallets of color and nude shades reigned the catwalk, with lace and embroidery giving it a soft feeling without losing its strength. Out with the old and in with the new as geometry takes the place of flowers, and images, landscapes, stamps and money are the new prints, so freshly stated and showcased by the PRINTS REINVENTED TREND. Mary Katranzou, widely known for prints stunned with her 2013 Spring Collection. Using the idea of stamps, money, banknotes she let her creation go wild and printed these journey totems on all the clothing items. She mixed, matched, cut, reshaped, rearranged and it all turned out brilliant. A-lines, shift dresses, sheaths, luxurious patterns, metallic brocades, Swarovsky crystals – all adorned the models and gave a feeling of Byzantine Age to the whole collection. Gowns have always been made for the red carpet and who better to know and exploit this than Monique Lhullier with her S/S 2013 collection of sequins, tulle, strapless and breath-taking evening gowns. It all evolved around aquatic and digital prints, and peplum reinvented. A water inspired show with gowns that appeared to have been dipped into the ocean’s fauna. Flowy, sexy, feminine and soft with the water peacock printed trouser suit that remained on everyone’s sigh-list weeks after the show has ended. Marc Jacobs, the king behind this trend, and Michael Kors, both mastered the stripes and geometric, 1960’s and 1970’s prints, with the latter dipping a bit into nature and using the clouds, sea and grass as color inspired palettes or subtle prints. At Dolce and Gabanna prints had a very romantic and holiday-like feeling to them, and were made from portraits and history moments or figures. Popping up quite often next to the Monochromatic, Retro, or Futuristic Trends the NEON COLOUR TREND gives the 1980’s a slight comeback this season. A colorful, confident show, packed with pearls, color blocking, caftans and dresses paired with narrow cut trousers was the one at Diane von Furstenberg – the Oriental queen meets urban woman. A harem-like approach, yet with a simplicity you hardly ever see anymore. Though colorful, there wasn’t a hurt-theeye type of display, but rather well chosen and mixed blues and reds splendidly paired with whites or blacks. It was like watching beautiful rich socialites or business women in downtown.
Manhattan. Carolina Hererra’s woman was a posh school-girl, in feminine light shades with extra sensual and fun neon colors popping against her clothes. At Issey Miyake’s, the vision was celebrating colors: jade, turquoise, cobalt, orange and pink with the occasional prints for a sublime Spring and Summer statement. POP STARS TRIBUTE TREND was delivered by designers who put on shows that were the definition of entertainment. Phillip Treacy’s and Jean Paul Gaultier’s collections were fun, glamorous, cool and rock’ish, with outfits that paid tribute to the most influential pop and rock figures of our times. The French designer took us from the 1960’s all throughout the 1990’s pop culture. Never cheap on glamour and exaggeration he delivered a fabulous and fun collection that was a sophisticated tribute paid to the stars. On the other hand, the London based designer was all about the hats for next season, and paid the same homage to pop stars and icons like Michael Jackson and Lady Gaga. Whether or not we may agree on the fun factor of these shows, one thing is certain, both collections were conceptual and character based and maintained quite an original vision on next season in a sea of too many trends. Never have so many designers found their muses in stories or fairy tales, as they did this year, thus giving birth to the MODERN FAIRYTALE TREND for Spring 2013. Whether it was edgy, masculine, knight meets princess style at Rodarte, or the surreal world of a fairy tale garden from a girl’s universe at J. Crew, the effect was the same - a journey into a softer but more powerful world where all is possible and beautiful. J. Crew took us to a secret garden, made us lay on the grass and get bitten by all the bugs and insects who never left our clothes since. An exquisite fauna and insect inspired collection that was itself inspired from the designer’s Time-Life nature books that he stumbled upon when visiting his parents. “The photography was amazing. All these pictures of insects and flowers and trees that were super saturated and just really beautiful. It was like the original Instagram”. A collection painted in pinks, yellows and greens, baring the designer’s trademark: pajama tops and shiny trousers. A different take on this trend had Vivienne Westwood with her Modern Retro meets Punk chic collection. While it was quite shocking, it did have a somewhat modern story telling behind it, yet different from the one at Rodarte, where, as previously stated above, it was all about the medieval times and King Arthur fantasy romantic world. Looking more like a show of costumes designs from another planet their collection was rich in textures, prints and embroidery, taking us back to the times of fairy-tales. With Chanel the crowd got what they expected – a fabulous show, that had femininity and fantasy written all over it. The wind farms on the catwalk together with the play of volumes, lightness and energy created a very surreal world. Innocence and extreme delicacy reigned and emphasized the mood. It was all air and wind, slightly elegant and monochromatic here and there with basic colors, beads and pearls. What most designers though, had in common, regardless of the array of trends, was the femininity factor. Reigning the S / S 2013, the FEMININE TREND comes in with soft lines, nude creamy colors and prints that make you smile and fall for simplicity.
Of course we could not have expected any other way from the Italian designers, who are masters in celebrating the women. Yet don’t think for a minute it was only romantic and cute, because even if it had some of the classic elements of femininity, it was quite edgy, modern and bondage-like here and there, with leather or plastic insertions and dark punk elements. Who said a woman can’t look feminine as a femme fatal? New York and London stepped in to this trend, and even if Zac Posen or Christopher Kane had a lot of other trends going on in their S / S 2013 collections, they designed for the feminine one as well. Christopher Kane used “colors that you feel a little bit sick” by, and on “Put a spell on you” song took us right to the core of horror and darkness, yet kept it classy, elegant and quite feminine all throughout the journey. It was fabulous, exquisite and so very daring. With intricate materials and cuts that folded onto dresses, and skirts looking like towels used in cheap horror scenes, with the exaggerate use of plastic, lace, crystals and rubber, he delivered one innovative original yet very rooted in the past collection. Taking the best form his inspiration he showcased it all having fun, being precise and relaxed while reinventing his own ideas. Mulberry’s soft creamy white, leather textures and piles of bags collection had an Alexa Chung look-a -like invasion. The subtle prints in delicate mint embroidery, the feminine feeling of large fatal leather trousers, jacquard, motorcycle jackets, slouchy tops, bishop sleeves and double breasted coats, left us all in awe and sugar high over this very feminine, sweet and simply beautiful collection. The school-girl has been Simone Rocha’s inspiration for a while now. If last year she portrayed the slouchy punk school rebel, this year her girl is a bit more polished, grown up, even a bit more of a woman or at least trying to look like one, by stealing items from her mother’s closet. So her lady-like-female meets the vulgar gorgeous persona, shows up in plastic, leather, lace, pierced textures of neon shades, crochet and cotton embroidery. An exquisite and intriguing collection. Carolina Herrera wanted to work with proportion this season, something incredibly light and soft so we see a lot of organza, tulle and chiffon in day and evening wear. The mini flirty school-girl skirts paired with buttoned up shirts and blazers looked fantastic, and the great play of hem - not long, not tea-length, but rather something in between – was a new take on this trend. The orange fluid dress with the sheer upper part was breathtaking, as was the short sleeved sweater belted in thin blue and paired with a tea-length skirt. Designers such as Chanel, Valentino, Botegga Venetta, Ellie Saab, Donna Karran, Mulberry and Paco Rabanne celebrated what a woman stands for and defines first and foremost – her inner beauty. Strong or soft, dominatrix or retro, glam or basic, all collections screamed femininity. At Emporio Armani the woman was natural, young and sophisticated in creamy whites, pinks, soft and silky silhouettes and textures. At Versace she was sexy in loose clothes, chains, lace and fluid silk. A bohemian femininity that celebrated the casual, relaxed side of a seductive woman. Bottega Venetta’s vision was the duality a woman holds, both soft and tough, sweet and passionate, whereas Giorgio Armani’s girl will always be the definition of elegance, in neutral pajama suits of ice blues and grays, displaying a relaxed liquid metallic vision of femininity.
As always, Roberto Cavalli is focused on the woman’s body and sexuality, and the designer has managed to once again put the sexiness and glamour into his collection, this time emphasizing more the stronger silhouette of his woman: trousers, big shoulders, white light shades, intricate prints, leathers, embroidery and lace, were adorning the clothes. At Missoni and Marni the models were fresh, sporty, modern, light and rather futuristic in layers and degrades, baring a slight architectural, innocent, sensitive and clean feeling at Marni. Balmain’s woman oozed femininity through her 1990’s inspired glam, luxury and rebel gangsta-like silhouette. Big shoulders, high wasted trousers, huge hoop earrings but nonetheless very feminine and strong in her leather, yellows and golds, or knits and belts. At John Galiano the show was a romantic, feminine architectural vision of the woman. Quite the same as Dior’s for that matter simple, soft, in basic colors with a few embroideries, perforated textures and sequins to break the soft elegance. A trend that seems to never leave the spotlight regardless of season or time is the BACK TO BASICS / MONOCHROMATIC TREND, featuring the same protagonists. Victoria Beckham’s travels and socializing made her realize that a women loves diversity. So she played around more with shapes and loved the slouchy trousers, silky blouses, airy skirts, the separates and the suits. The used textures and colors were pretty much the same, but that’s her trademark: crisp materials, lack of prints, clear cuts and solid colors. She brought a new look with the Manolo Blahnik designed flat sandals and the monk strap men shoes. At Proenza Schouler there was a play with the vest, with the sleeveless dresses, exotic skins, perforated leather and oversized coats making quite an impression with the crowd. Clothes embellished with photo-prints looked stunning and revealed their main inspiration – Tumblr. They cut and cropped, mixed and matched all the prints they could think of, and it all looked like an exquisite sublime and unique chaos. Calvin Klein joins the likes of Narciso Rodriguez, Salvatore Ferragamo and Christopher Kane on this trend. That comes as no surprise as the USA designer was always into basic, graphic, black and white or light shades. What he did though for next season, was to seek inspiration in Hitchcock, and succeeded in delivering a slightly different collection, quite sexy, with the bra in sight, the cool heels, or the strong and structured cuts. Rodriguez kept his basic simplicity, while Salvatore Ferragamo went all equestrian with basic sometimes monochromatic tones and edginess given by the buckles, high sandals or the leather trenches. With the Olympics happening this year, one never had a doubt that the SPORTY CHIC TREND would catch on and have quite some established protagonists and fantastic collections. Topshop Unique stirred our interest for asymmetry and diagonal zippers, while keeping the same tone as ever:chic, slightly funky, sophisticated, urban and real. With a collection of black and white, sheer insertions, fluid and light layering one can hope to attract even more fans. It oozed the same effortless, urban keep-it-real vibe mixed with the clashing of items from different styles. Richard Nicoll confesses that his collection was a‘‘no tricks, down-to-earth, athletic, urban, timeless” one, and indeed it holds simplicity, with basic colors and his famous blue reigning amongst shirts,
bermudas, sheer insertions in skirts just a bit above the knee, rather loose, yet so sexy. The creamy simple beautiful shades were so well complimented by sporty textures and cuts from leather, pique, jersey, parkas, zippers all clashing into a sublime sporty glamor. Maxmara donned urban safari looks in loose brown outfits that celebrated the laid back side of a woman. At Balenciaga, with Kristen Stewart front row we were bound to get a very sporty, chic, girly and quite sexy collection. His girl was a grown up now, who played around with mixed textures and shades, with lace and knits or flamenco ruffles in white and pink. Giambatista Valli presented a collection with a combo of sporty and lace, or better yet the the athletic woman meets the modern chic one. Stella McCartney’s approach was unchanged from the Olympics, so she delivered comfort and basic colors, with models strutting the runway in sporty monochromatic outfits, clean and relaxed lines. Ladies who adore being sophisticated and telling stories through their style, will be in heaven this S / S 2013 for the SOPHISTICATED LOOK TREND is reigning this season. Though not too many designers took its path, those who did, sure made a statement not just by being huge names and delivering quality and bespoke collections, but by giving ladies a story to go with a dress, a concept behind an outfit, while allowing our inner glamor and sophistication to shine through. Nothing is forbidden as long as it is luxurious, sophisticated, glamorous and tells a story. Dolce and Gabanna, Alexander McQueen and Jean Paul Gaultier best represented this trend. If the Italians took us to the 1960’s romantic retro, glamorous and feminine Sicily, where women were all fabulous and hot in intricate prints, designs, embroideries and cuts, McQueen had one obsession: bees. A collection that dipped into the honey bucket and came out glamorous and chic, in golden tones, intricate textures and A lines. Same breathtaking appeal had Gaultier’s show with his pop stars tribute collection that once again put the sophistication where it belongs - on the runway and on women’s bodies. ORIENTAL NIGHTS TREND has left its mark on some of the collections this season. Matthew Williamson, Prabal Gurung and Marchesa were inspired by this Oriental world, where glamor and femininity define the women of these cultures, with clothes that ooze sensuality and celebrate seduction through lace, embroidery, sequins, crystals and jewelry. Prabal Gurung was influenced by the traditional kurtas, his mother and sister wear in Nepal and his show was a beautiful display of fitted jackets and slouchy trousers. Models looked fabulous in fresh tunics, and amazing textures adorned with red and white feathers and crystals. When one says Marchesa a world of luxury and empress lifestyle unveils in front of thier eyes. She kept a clean collection of whites, yellows and fresh tones embellished with beads and sequins in flowy textures. With an Oriental and Indian inspiration she made a display of sequined capris under long sexy T-shirts and sheath dresses. A splash of neon pink, heavy earrings, and embroidery took us to the dark sensual Baroque Epoch. The tulle skirt with tight sequined top and bare midriff were fabulous. So was the burgundy evening gown with frills and fringes or the white bare midriff one all defining the sensuality behind this trend. The front row at Altuzarra was in awe at the ingenious coat and cape invention admitting that “it’s how editors wear their coats”.
The collection carries on this chic work wear feel given by the huge pockets, shirts, long knee-high sandals, clean elegant, fresh and classic colors. It was a brilliant representation of a chic yet simply sophisticated worker with cool pockets, hot shoes and a nonchalant coat. The outfits had Oriental feel to them and the evening wear was fabulously adorned with heavy fringes in gold rich textures and colors. Never one to fade away, the CLASSIC ELEGANCE TREND had its much deserved spotlight at S/S 2013 FW. What could one expect from established names like Gucci, Emporio Armani, Giorgio Armani, Dior or Ellie Saab who have shaped and redefined this trend throughout time. Their collections bared feminine and sexy looks in nude soft shades. They represent the ultimate elegance and classic side in a woman. On the other hand, many designers went the opposite way and envisioned the 2013 woman strong, rebel, carefree and outspoken with a sexy attitude and cool clothes donning the PUNK ROCK TREND & THE 1990’S GLAM GRUNGE. At Dsquared it was all flirty 1990’s glam rock attitudes in punk sexy biker jackets, leather, shorts and never too many accessories: necklaces, bracelets, earrings all piled up and layered in a glam kitsch and rebellious look. Balmain, Anna Sui and Saint Laurent gave a punk rock look to their collections, with the latter presenting a 1970’s rock dandy girl, in big hats, skinny trousers and jackets. A bit prairie woman meets rock chick kind of collection. Vivienne Westwood, the mother of grunge, once again took pride and inspiration from her past, as did the two story tellers from S/S 2013 FW, Jean Paul Gaultier and Phillip Treacy who both took inspiration from the rock eras, 1990’s being quite the muse for them. A shy JAPANESE TREND might make quite the statement this S/S 2013. Though not too much exploited in terms of quantity there were some designers who sure have left a mark with their Japanese influence and, given their legacy, we’ll probably be seeing a lot of this geisha, feminine strong looks in the hot season. Prada’s woman was a futuristic geisha in Japanese inspired clothes, embellishments, embroidery and sandals. In reds, mint, pastels and black, models looked sporty, spiritual, dark and very strong. We shall see how and if this trend takes off though. With what seems like millions of trends to choose from, one would assume accessories and makeup must be minimal, yet the same rule applies with them too - anything goes and no rules must be thoroughly followed. Looking into all S/S 2013 Collections there were a couple of things that were quite repetitive, thus one might think they would form a trend, which in all honesty, they do: the high sandals and the bold makeup (red lips vs eyeliner). Strong red lips were a main look at Burberry, J.P. Gaultier, Rochas, Prada, Jonathan Saunders, Paul Smith or Missoni, whereas eyeliner made a statement at Miu Miu, Lanvin, Thierry Mugler, Giorgio Armani, Roberto Cavalli, and Chanel. The Twiggy eyelashes made their return at J.P. Gaultier, Veronique Leroy, Moschino, and Gucci. Big brows were a hit at Marc Jacobs, Etro, Miele, Versace and Zac Posen. Accessories were fun, laid back, girly, in plastic, in bold colors, with hoop earrings, statement necklaces and bracelets piling up the models. Bags are bright and minimal, making a statement through clean architectural shapes and monochromatic bold hues.
Shoes are funky and fun in millions of straps up to the knees, in fur, prints, heels, with aqua and snake motifs or Japanese styles. When gazing back at FW after it has ended, and when doing a short summery, styles and trends are predicted. Are these predictions real? Do they influence movements (or at least a segment beyond fashion)? I must think yes, at least regarding the first question, whereas for the second part, it remains to be seen. Yet of one thing we can be certain – S/S 2013 FW went hand in hand with Technology and the 21st century Social Media craze. From Burberry, Topshop and Phillip Lim’s “Kill The Night” to the live panels, fashion was digital in its approach. Could it be that its exclusivity and hard-to-get-into feature is losing ground? When else in time have you had the comfort of your bed to watch how fashion critics kill or praise a collection live? When have your go-to-blogs and websites delivered you so much freshness right off the catwalks and streets in all its honesty and acid commentaries? Never. Perhaps the fashion world finally surrendered to the saying “if you can’t beat them join them”. Yet were things backstage so rosy? Though a brand new approach, the Live Panels were not so easy to pull off, as lots of editors and stylists declined the invitations. “Some people would not appear on these panels... editors of magazines, stylists who refused to come and talk because they were too frightened of losing their advertisers. And that’s a very bad situation for any art to be in” says Nick Knight, adding that “like any other art form, fashion should be critiqued (…). This is part of what we are trying to do here. Fashion deserves a strong critical forum (…). And it’s going to hurt. I hate having criticism of my work but I need it. I need it to understand how my work appears. An art medium without a critical forum is not a healthy art medium.” (‘Business Of Fashion’). Still I suppose that’s just the rough start that comes with any progress or innovation. By next fashion week we will probably be witnessing an upgrade to this New Media movement. Which trend may pick up more and make its statement? Or which trend might have a word to say in all that surrounds us? That’s a task usually attributed to celebrities and fashion industry’s big names. For instance next Spring (May 9th – August 11th 2013) the Punk and Rock Trend will be the main focus of Spring 2013 Costume Institute Exhibition at Metropolitan Museum, with co-chairs as Rooney Mara, Anna Wintour or Ricardo Tisci. This ‘Chaos to Couture Exhibition’ will examine punk’s impact on the high fashion today, from its birth in the 1970’s to nowadays. “Since its origins punk’s democracy has had an incendiary influence on fashion. Although punk’s democracy stands in opposition to fashion’s autocracy, designers continue to appropriate punk’s aesthetic vocabulary to capture its rebelliousness and aggressive forcefulness”. (Andrew Bolton, curator in The Costume Institute). At Central Museum in The Netherlands ‘Levi’s For Miners Exhibition’ (November 24th 2012 – March 10th 2013) will include denim creations from designers such as: Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier and YSL. Is the fashion world trying to tell us something? Are they urging the younger generation to take charge and rebel against this lack of direction in all that surrounds us? All decades had a motto, a movement and a drive. Does the 2000 generation have nothing to say? Designers seem nostalgic as they seem to crave for history being made, and upon awaiting for something big to happen they remissness on the troubled past that has changed and molded fashion into an art and a self expression of the masses. Apparently the world who dictates what we wear and when wants us to take charge, have strong rebellious attitudes and not care so much about how we look, but rather about want to say. This exact nonchalance will transpire into a fashion of itself, a movement or style, that might or might not be solidly rooted into the 1970’s punk movement or the 1990’s glam grunge looks. If we should see more of young Kate Mosses, Naomi Campbells or Jane Birkins and Nina Hagens remains to be seen. We might be witnessing a 2013 S/S of very relaxed, fun and cool styles, where there are no rules except for shocking and clashing trends. Has all been done before in terms of fashion? Or are we so lazily comfortable that nothing new crosses our minds? With a few more months to reflect, one should hope for the better outcome - that is finding our inner creative voices to trigger beauty, boldness, spirit, glamour and all that ultimately defines what fashion and style stand for.
The Evolution of fashion
Photography / Anna Heupel / www.annaheupel.de
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spotlight / Photographers
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photographer spotlight Each month we select our favorite small submissions from our photographer community
Alex Sheridan / Page 98
Giuseppe Grasso / Page 100
Mariana Quevedo / Page 102
Martin Janssen / Page 100
Nina Napoletano / Page 102
Salva Mirosa / Page 100
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spotlight / Alex Sheridan
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Photography / Alex Sheridan Model / Aishling Croughan Makeup / Ali S Donnelly
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spotlight / Giuseppe Grasso
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Photography / Giuseppe Grasso Model / Corinne Piccolo Styling / Cecilia Martini Makeup & Hair / Serena Palma
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spotlight / Mariana Quevedo
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Photography / Mariana Quevedo Model / Elisha @ ADAM NYC Styling / Queena Yan Makeup & Hair / Josephine Fernandez
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spotlight / Martin Janssen
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Photography / Martin Janssen Model / Tess Huissen Styling / Marjolein van Soelen Makeup & Hair / Jeanette Waasdorp
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spotlight / Tina Pelech
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Photography / Tina Pelech Model / Nina Napoletano Styling / www.instyledeals.com Makeup & Hair / Jennifer McCarthy Norton
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spotlight / Salva Mirisola
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Photography / Salva Mirisola Model / Yonas N @ SPIN Models Styling / Jan Luckenbill Makeup & Hair / Melanie Weber
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