Flavour_South_West_55

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for people who love local food

South West | Issue 55

www.flavourmagazine.com

Cosy Winter Warmer Anyone? Learning from the Master

Fantastic pubs, superb retreats, comfort personified

Michel Roux lends us some inspired recipes from his latest book

WIN!

A two-night break at Combe Grove Manor

INSIDE

Your regular Greenliving edition

Ladies that Lunch Take time out to sit down with friends and enjoy great food

Follow us @FlavourMagazine


LOYALTY IS ITS OWN REWARD… BUT A LITTLE EXTRA THANK YOU IS ALWAYS GOOD. FRONT (CMY

K)

SO IF YOU ARE ONE OF OUR LOYAL REGULARS, ASK IN THE BRASSERIE FROM 26 NOVEMBER FOR A FREQUENT DINER CARD, AND START PICKING OUT ONE OF OUR SPECIAL THANK YOU GIFTS. BACK (2 COLO U

R)

FR EQ U EN T

D IN ER N O .

TE RM S AN D THIS CARD IS NO CO ND ITI ON S BE EXCHANGED T A CHEQUE GUARANTEE CAR PURCHASES WE FOR CASH NO CHANGE WILL D, CREDIT, DEBIT OR CHARGE BE FROM DATE OF WILL NOT BE LIABLE FOR STO GIVEN BUT THE BALANCE MACARD THIS CARD CANNOT PURCHASE FUL LEN L TERMS & CON OR LOST CARDS POINTS Y BE USED FOR FUTURE VAL DITIONS CAN BE W W W. BR AS VIEWED ON THE ID FOR 24 MONTHS SE RI EB LA NC WEBSITE .CO M

Brasserie Blanc Bath: Ground Floor, Francis Hotel, 6-11 Queen Square, Bath BA1 2HH. Tel. 01225 303860. bath@brasserieblanc.com

PANTO PANTONE 12 4 PANTONE 46 5 www.brasserieblanc.com 85

N102 E 18410.bristol@brasserieblanc.com 15 Brasserie Blanc Bristol: The Friary Building, Cabot Circus, Bristol, BS1 3Df. Tel. 01179

xx


Editor Nick Gregory Email: nick@flavourmagazine.com Art Director Ben Lawton Email: design@flavourmagazine.com Advertising Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Maggie Fox, Account Manager Email: maggie@flavourmagazine.com Photography Jeni Meade Contributors Tom Bowles, Nick Harman, Duncan Shine, Max Drake, James Underdown, Megan Owen, Jack Stein, Laura Roberts, Romy Gill, Charlie Lyon, Angela Mount, Megan Owen

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Flavour Magazine

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151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 0117 977 9188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com For general enquiries Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com

© Copyright 2012 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com

For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 0117 977 9188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.

Inside... 04 WIN! A two-night stay at Combe Grove Manor 10 In Season Tom Bowles brings us the best of the season’s produce 23 Ladies That Lunch Venues sure to make the most of a ‘catch up’ 35 Cosy Winter Warmers Snuggle up by the fire and enjoy a good pint 59 Luxury Spa Guide Get away from it all and pamper yourselves to bits... 69 Michel Roux – The Collection The legendary chef teases with some of his favourite recipes

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Welcome to flavour; full of reviews, profiles, recipes and features.

It’s a bit of a double-edged sword being an editor, and especially one at a food magazine. Of course it’s great to come across new producers, go to openings and sample exciting flavours but, on the flip side, being exposed to so much means there just aren’t enough hours in the day to cover them all! Ho hum…

For competition entries Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com

flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed.

welcome

As we edge towards Christmas and the new year, we have a couple of features that should really complement the mood. Cosy Winter Warmers (Page 35) takes you out of the cold and into a collection of great venues that should toast the cockles. If you have a moment to spare to catch up with friends, Ladies that Lunch (Page 23) offers up a plethora of options for a spot of ‘tucca’ and a good old chin wag. If you have had enough of the stress of the moment however, take a look at our luxury Spa Guide (Page 59) – that’s guaranteed to sort you out. One of my favourite chefs of all time, Michel Roux, has a new book out – The Collection – that has brought together all of his most revered recipes and we are lucky enough to have been given a few to try (Page 75). The terrine is magic and certainly impressed! Anyway, we hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as we enjoyed putting it together… Well done and Happy Christmas!

Nick NICK GREGORY

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If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com

this month Flavour up with the Twitterati!

Social media we embrace you. flavour has gone live on Twitter and as I write we have 920 followers. Free subscription will be given to our 1,000th, 2,000th and 3,000th follower.

COMPETITION WINNERS

on the ‘Ether’ and we’ll happily oblige…

Congratulations go to

We also have a Facebook page for you to pick up stories.

Nicholas Fanning from

@FlavourMagazine

Please feel free to send us any snippets of info that you would like us to get out there

Dorset who wins the excellent Lucknam Park Stay and Cook competition. We are all very jealous!

WIN! A TWO-NIGHT BREAK AT COMBE GROVE MANOR Combe Grove Manor Hotel and Country Club is the perfect location for all your special occasions, situated just three miles from Bath City Centre, and nestled in 69 acres of private gardens and woodlands with breathtaking views over the Limpley Stoke Valley. A visit to Combe Grove Manor enlivens the senses, and we are offering one lucky person a fabulous two-night break for two in The Manor House. The prize includes accommodation in one of the luxurious suites, Champagne on arrival, pampering in the spa, breakfast on both mornings and dinner on the first night. Both guests are invited to enjoy a 55-minute Hot Stones massage, which will leave you totally revitalised. The Leisure Club boasts seasonal swimming pools, an exercise studio and gym. If golf is your thing, you can practise your swing on the 19-bay driving range. Fully relaxed and having enjoyed a pre-dinner cocktail in the lounge, take in dinner in the 2 AA Rosette award-winning Georgian restaurant, where Head Chef Gary Gardiner will cook you a five-course Taster Menu, complimented by a selected wine.

This hotel is an experience, and once you’ve been, you will be planning your next visit before you’ve even checked out. The prize is subject to availability and must be taken within one year of the prize being drawn, valid Sunday to Thursdays excluding school holidays, Christmas and New Year. Spa treatments and times that you wish to dine must be booked prior to arrival.

WELL DONE!

To enter, simply email competitions@ flavourmagazine.com putting Combe Grove Manor in the subject line and your FULL contact details within the email body. Good luck! www.pumahotels.co.uk

WIN!


ongratulations! CTheWheatsheaf takes the plaudits Congratulations go to The Wheatsheaf, Combe Hay, recently voted Somerset Dining Pub of the Year in the Good Pub Guide. Well done!

WINE OF THE

MONTH

www.wheatsheafcombehay.co.uk

Celtic flavour comes to Bath Following the success of his previous restaurants in Edinburgh and which saw Dougie Bonar cooking twice for Princess Anne, acquire a Michelin Red M and Double Rosettes, Dougie has opened a new contemporary dining restaurant in Bath called the Kilted Chef. His passion for fine food, ensuring the best ingredients are sourced from sustainable, national farms and suppliers has led Dougie to partner with John Stevens and Sue Chalmers to open the Kilted Chef, on Kingsmead Square, Bath. A full spectrum of menus is available and we urge you to get down there and sample the delights. www.kiltedchef.co

Tim McLaughlin-Green, sommelier and wine consultant of Sommelier’s Choice, was shortlisted for the Harpers & Queen Sommelier of the Year award. His philosophy is to search for and work with family-owned wineries, producing high-quality wines in small quantities, aiming for something really special. December is the month to be with friends and family, sharing and having fun. Over the past 10 years, I have joined restaurateur and food writer Mitch Tonks and his family together with friends from Italy and we enjoy good food and fine wine. Our time together allows us to reflect on the year past and to discuss the year ahead. We also have a theme for the wine and prepare all year for our Christmas indulgence. This year our theme is white and red burgundy however, I love to add a wild card. This year’s is Ataraxia Chardonnay 2009 from Hemel-en-Aarde area that lies in the Walker Bay appellation in South Africa. Ataraxia is a very fine wine offering good complexity, New World in provenance, but Old World in stylistic leaning. This is a wine for your cellar to share with friends on special occasions and what better occasion than the Christmas and New Year festivities?

Available from The Wine Library, Slurp.co.uk, Winedirect.co.uk & Sommelier’s Choice £22.50-£26.00 All wines available from:

www.sommelierschoice.com


> flavour news

CHEF’S DIARY

Bath Artisan Market

Sunday, December 9 – Green Park Station Celebrating all that is artisan, The Bath Artisan Market has over 70 stalls selling high-quality, unique goods from vintage and handmade clothes, to artwork, jewellery, preserves, oils, wines, local cheeses, delicious handmade chocolates, cakes and many more. There is also a kids’ activity area with painting pottery or sticking glitter onto Christmas decorations. You can enjoy lovely hot organic street food or coffee from a converted horse-box – it makes the perfect alternative Christmas market with parking, a laidback soundtrack and lovely atmosphere under one roof. www.bathartisanmarket.com

Twenty-five-year-old Leigh Evans has been head chef at The Chequers, Bath, for two-and-a-half years now. We spoke to Leigh about his preparation for the festive period… “We are beginning to get really busy now, with the Christmas parties starting this week – 800 covers have already been booked! Last year I pretty much worked 18-hour days throughout December, but I have a much better team this time around so hopefully it won’t be quite as manic. “I know some chefs don’t like this time of year, but I really get excited by it. I’m a Christmas boy at heart and love being part of it all. It doesn’t stop there though. We have a brilliant New Year’s Eve eight-course taster menu for everyone to enjoy. We are already over half full for the evening so now would be a good time to get booking! “We have a lovely new dish on the menu – pot roast pheasant leg and seared breast of pheasant with festive accompaniments. I’m hoping this is going to have a big following, as it is a seriously good plate of food with tons of flavour!

50 Rivers Street Bath BA1 2QA 01225 360 017 www.thechequersbath.com 6

Glassblower Miranda Coller visits Bristol Blue Glass The Bristol Blue Glass factory, visitor centre and gallery shop is located in the heart of Bristol. On arrival, you are illuminated with stunning colour and highly collectible pieces ranging from decanters, glasses, bowls, jugs, vases, candlesticks, jewellery and much more – it’s like an Aladdin’s cave. On my lunch hour last week, I decided to take a trip down to the studio and make my very own Christmas bauble. This time of year it’s a hot attraction and costs just £12.50. Anyone can walk in and you will be received with a very warm welcome. They are holding an open day on December 1, with the opportunity of watching the glass blowers hard at work and the chance to make your own bauble. This event costs only £10, with the option to also have your bauble engraved a little extra – but oh so worth it!

This experience is perfect for the family, a girls’ day out, team bonding, hen parties and an ideal Christmas present that can be treasured for years. It’s open to all visitors seven days a week 9am–5pm Mon-Sat and 10am– 4pm on Sundays. Please let us know how you get on @FlavourMagazine 01179 720818 www.bristol-glass.co.uk


> flavour news

Jon Thorner’s Open Evening Jon Thorner’s is hosting their much-anticipated Christmas Open Evening at Bridge Farm Shop in Pylle, near Shepton Mallet. On Friday, November 30 starting at 6pm, you are welcome to sample an array of locally made produce and meet the suppliers behind the brands. The butchery counter will also be brimming with superb festive fare and great ideas for Christmas dinner. Jon Thorner’s produce their own range of kitchen-ready products too and you’ll be able to wash all this down with complimentary mulled wine.

Jon Thorner’s Bridge Farm Shop, Pylle, Shepton Mallet BA4 6TA 01749 830138 www.jonthorners.co.uk

21 West Café Bistro – Celebrate their first year anniversary December 1st marks a successful first year for 21 West Café Bistro. This cosy neighbourhood café and bistro in Backwell, North Somerset, is developing a good following from locals and visitors from further afield. This independent bistro has a strong team of professional staff (with over 50 years of expertise between them) delivering a topquality service and some seriously great food. The small team of chefs have developed relationships with local suppliers and are producing fresh food daily, baking their own bread and cakes, using super organic veg, fresh Cornish fish and local farm meats. To mark their one-year anniversary, all diners on Saturday, December 1, will be offered a complimentary glass of bucks fizz to celebrate. www.21-west.co.uk 7



> flavour > fab flavour foodie xxxxxxx reads

FAB FOODIE

READS

For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

ANTONIO CARLUCCIO THE COLLECTION

PICK OF THE MONTH!

Quadrille, £25 The Godfather of Italian food, Antonio Carluccio has brought together over 300 of his best recipes to form this sensational bible of Italian cooking. Capturing Antonio’s joyful and laid-back approach to cooking – minimum of fuss, maximum of flavour – this exceptional book provides a unique culinary journey covering every aspect of the Italian meal from antipasti to dolci and featuring mouthwatering dishes from each of Italy’s distinct culinary regions. It’s packed with stunning photographs and infused with Antonio’s charismatic voice and style.

Who put the beef in wellington?

Eat like an Italian

Recipes for the Good Life

Hugh’s Three Good Things… on a Plate

James Winter,

Catherine Fulvio

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall

Kyle Books, £17.99

Gill & Macmillan, £19.99

Bloomsbury, £25

James is the producer of Saturday Kitchen and has always been fascinated by food and its history. In this, his second book, he takes 50 culinary classics and taps into their history and how those dishes came to be.

Eat Like An Italian, like the Mediterranean food pyramid, has an introduction and tips scattered thoughout about adapting to the healthy, leisurely Italian lifestyle.

The book takes the reader on a wonderfully colourful journey through the history of food. Readers will digest lots of facts along the way, from the opening descriptions of Winter’s love of the brilliant ‘food geek’ Brillat-Savarin and his book The Physiology of Taste, the book is a veritable rollercoaster through the origins of classic dishes such as peach Melba, the Reuben’s sandwich, eggs Benedict and oysters Rockefeller.

Recipes include lasagne rolls, plum and Chianti soup, lamb stew with olives and lemon, imaginative everyday chicken dishes including chicken with prosciutto and shallots, and unique ice-cream recipes, fig, cappuccino and olive oil.

“If you ever feel your cooking is stuck in a rut, your repertoire of recipes is a little tired, then this ridiculously simple cookbook is aimed at you. I hope to set you off in a fresh creative direction, not just with another collection of recipes but with a radical new perspective on cooking… resulting in little more, and little less, than three good things on a plate.” Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall Looking back over nearly two decades of professional cookery, Hugh has worked out the combinations that make magic. He has used the formula of three to create 200 recipes, both wellloved classics and brand new ideas. 9


> flavour in season

Quince Quince has become a bit more of a speciality these days, but they are not as readily available as they once were. This is hard to see why, as it is such a strong aromatic fruit with a lovely subtle, sweet flavour. The quince can often be mistaken for a Comice pear, due to its quite squat resemblance. It is not best eaten raw, as it is very sour. Due to its high levels of pectin it’s most commonly used in jams and jellies. In the latter state, it gives leftover roast lamb or your Christmas Stilton a wonderful fruity, fragrant partner. It will keep well for a week at room temperature. It can be refrigerated to last longer, but you will miss out on the natural fragrance it exudes!

At their best

right

Swede Swedes are a classic winter root vegetable similar to the turnip although less watery in texture. Swedes are typically two-tone with a yellowy bottom and a purple top. The flesh is very firm and sweet tasting and is usually treated in much the same way as potatoes. Swedes form the ‘neeps’ part of the famous Scottish ‘neeps and tatties’. They are generally in season from mid-October to February. When picking look for roots that are weighty and unblemished. They are usually a bit ragged in appearance due to growing in the ground but the skin should be in good condition. Swedes will keep very well for a week or so in the fridge.

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> flavour in season

Pomegranates The tough, leathery skin of this fruit is the protector of hundreds of bright capsules that are bursting with a sweet but sharp, dry but refreshing aftertaste. They are native to Iran, but due to their tough skin do travel and store very well and so have become more easily available. They are also heaped with anti-oxidants (as if you need to be persuaded to eat them). When picking, look for fruits that are weighty for their size. They will keep for a few weeks but I doubt they will last for that long! They can be prepared by cutting in half and scooping out the seeds. They are delicious on their own but my favourite is sprinkling them over a salad with cured ham or a nice salty blue cheese.

We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes. Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm brings you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.

now

Hartley Farm Shop and Café is located just outside Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonal produce. Visit: www.hartley-farm.co.uk Follow Hartley Farm on Twitter: @hartleyFarm

Parsnips Parsnips seem to have established a bit of a ‘love them or hate them’ following . Historically, parsnips were used to sweeten dishes where sugar was not widely available and so were used a great deal more in cooking. They seemed to fade out as the potato took over in dishes and sugar became more common. It’s not hard to see why our ancestors chose this vegetable to do such a job. When roasted, parsnips can be deliciously sweet and a great complement to any Sunday roast. A little tip is to pick parsnips that have already faced a frost as this adds to their sweetness. Try to pick firm, dry parsnips that are not too big as the bigger they are the more woody the core tends to be. They can be stored well in a fridge for 2-3 weeks provided they are covered. A parsnip that is no longer at its best will tend to look withered and wrinkled and turns slightly soft. There are hundreds of different ways to cook with parsnips and be sure to try as many as you can before deciding on your favourite to offer on the table of your Christmas lunch!

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> flavour recipe

BETTER FOOD CAFÉ’S

Celeriac, apple & pomegranate salad SERVES 4 Our Helen’s crunchy, fresh winter salad is a favourite at the St Werburghs café.

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

• 1 medium celeriac (approx 400g), grated

Full of fruity, nutty, sweet and salty flavours and bursting with antioxidants, vitamins and minerals, you can serve it as a side dish or as a light lunch. It’s harvest time for celeriac and apples too so you can find plenty that are locally grown.

• 1 medium pomegranate

This recipe will serve four as a side dish and will keep for three days in the fridge, so can easily be made in advance.

• Juice of one lemon

Wash, peel and then grate the celeriac into a bowl and stir in the lemon juice straight away. Rinse and slice the apples – Better Food use organic Santana apples from Gloucestershire – and add to the celeriac. Add the pomegranate kernels, crumble over a handful of walnuts and stir in the yoghurt and parsley.

• 2 eating apples (approx 300g), washed and sliced • A handful of crumbled walnuts • 150ml organic natural yoghurt • 3 tbsp chopped fresh parsley • Salt and pepper

Shop & Café The Proving House, Sevier Street, St Werburghs, Bristol BS2 9QS Food Hall and Deli 94 Whiteladies Road, Clifton, Bristol BS8 2QX Call: 0117 935 1725 Visit: www.betterfood.co.uk 12

Tip for pomegranate preparation: halve or quarter the pomegranate from top to bottom and submerge in a basin of water while using your hand to scoop out the seeds – these will sink while the pith floats. You can then skim off the pith and drain your kernels ready for use.


> flavour recipe

YEO VALLEY

Sourdough MAKES 1 LOAF INGREDIENTS

METHOD

• 210g strong white flour

In a clean bowl dissolve the sourdough starter into the Yeogurt. Add in 100g of the flour and mix thoroughly.

• A pinch of salt • 80g white sourdough starter • 150g Yeo Valley 0% Fat Natural Yeogurt

Cover the dough and allow to ferment in a cool place overnight. After 24hrs, uncover the dough (there should be bubbles in the mixture). Mix the remaining flour and salt into the dough and fold until it comes together. Cover and leave to sit for 10 minutes. In the bowl, knead the dough for 10 seconds, until it resists and then leave to sit for 10 minutes. Repeat another three times, covering the bowl between kneading. Allow to rest for one hour. Shape the dough into a loaf, place in a

floured proofing basket or greased baking tin. Leave to proof for three hours or until the dough is double in size. Preheat the oven to 250°C/500°F and then put an empty deep tray at the bottom. When ready, turn the dough out of the proofing basket onto a floured tray, and slash with a very sharp serrated knife. Put in the oven and add a cup of water to the tray on the bottom shelf to form steam. Lower oven to 220°C/425°F. Bake for 3040 minutes until golden brown. TOP TIP: You will know it’s cooked as when you tap it on the bottom it will sound hollow. Allow to cool on a wire rack.

Visit: www.yeovalley.co.uk

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JON THORNER’S

the

BUTCHER’S

tip

Jon Thorner is the founder of Jon Thorner’s Ltd and is South West Chairman of the Q Guild of Butchers association. The awardwinning businessman has a farm shop near Shepton Mallet, five butchery counters across the South West and makes fantastic pies... Jon Thorner’s Bridge Farm Shop Pylle, Shepton Mallet Somerset BA4 6TA 01749 830138 www.jonthorners.co.uk

Twitter: @JonThorners Facebook: Jon Thorner’s

QUALITY MEAT

BONED AND ROLLED LEG OF LAMB

Christmas Poultry Christmas is all about THAT meal, the meal everyone has been waiting for all year. So if you’re the cook this year, you’ll want to make a great impression.

such as our award-winning honey and clove. Our kitchen range boasts over 35 items, which is the secret time saver – let someone else do the hard work!

The advice I can offer is to buy the best quality ingredients you can afford and let the flavours be the showstopper. Use a quality butcher who can offer you variety, and importantly, provenance of the meat they offer.

Sometimes you’re not catering for lots of people and just looking for a delicious evening meal for two or four people. You could try West Country rack of lamb, a venison haunch joint, or an apple and Calvados stuffed loin of pork sourced just three miles from our farm shop. Our range of poultry and game is really worth considering – you’ll be pleasantly surprised at the choice available.

The most traditional Christmas Day meat is turkey, so it’s no surprise there is a lot of variety to choose from. We offer four different types of turkey – white, bronze, organic and Copas, as a whole bird, joint or boneless breast with or without a choice of seasonal stuffing. Our white and freerange bronze birds are from Caldecott Farm in rural Worcestershire this year, which has ethically reared turkeys since 1958. Although turkey might be traditional, it’s not always everyone’s favourite, which is why we offer over 100 products on our Christmas order form.

Christmas really is the perfect time to show off at the dinner table, grand joints of meat, tasty accompaniments, delicious pastries and scrumptious desserts.

We are now taking orders for Christmas – please visit www.jonthorners.co.uk for our full range – plus the opportunity to win £1,000!

A nice alternative to turkey is goose. There is less meat, but it is full of flavour and richer than turkey so you don’t need as much, making it a perfect choice for smaller families. Our free-range goose is sourced just 16 miles away. But there is also the rest of the Christmas period to cater for as well, as this is the time we truly indulge. A fantastic roasting joint is our 21-day aged West Country reared carvery rib of beef; this on the bone joint is succulent and tender. Our gammons are perfect if you have your own delicious recipe to cook at home or, for ease, buy one of our own cooked hams,

THE TRADITIONAL ROAST TURKEY 15


Mary Berry & Daughter With the huge popularity of The Great British Bake Off, we thought we’d look into Mary Berry and see what other fabulous creations she has come up with. Well, it turns out quite a lot actually. Mary and her daughter Annabel launched a range of sauces and dressings to the market almost 20 years ago and so we thought we would have a look, and a taste! Glad we did… For the mother and daughter team it was about ‘delivering top-quality dressings and sauces, using the very best ingredients, with taste being the most important aspect’. The products are GM free, contain free-range eggs and no artificial flavourings or preservatives. All dressings, with the exception of the Caesar Dressing, are 100 per cent vegetarian. All Seasons Sauce: good tossed with hot baby sausages and sesame seeds thrown on. Mustard Dressing: delicious served with home cooked honey-glazed ham. (one of Mary’s favourites). 16

Hollandaise: really good warm with eggs Benedict. I do this with my boys every weekend, (aged 7 and 5). We toast muffins, cook poached eggs and spread the hollandaise instead of butter, a bonus if there’s bacon in the fridge too! Chutneys: great with ham or a ploughman’s lunch. Oriental Sauce: Makes a delicious sauce for ribs or little meatballs if you want something special to serve round with drinks. Lemon & Thyme Sauce: Really good with fish, accompanied with salmon. Mary Berry’s Salad Dressings and Sauces are sold at Waitrose, Tesco, Sainsbury’s, Lakeland Limited, Harrods, Fortnum & Mason, Chatsworth Farm Shop, Millets Farm Shop and Booths, as well as selected delicatessens, farmshops and village stores.

www.maryberryanddaughter.com


> flavour goodman’s geese

tmas Order your Chris at e lin on turkey .co.uk se ee sg an m od www.go

Goodman’s Geese COOKING YOUR TURKEY Goodman’s Geese is part of Goodman Brothers, who farm at Walsgrove Farm, Great Witley and in the surrounding area. They farm arable and asparagus, as well as 4,000 free-range geese and 4,000 free-range bronze turkeys. They also have Aberdeen Angus beef animals grazing the hillside. The poultry business was started as a hobby in 1982 and has grown into an award-winning supplier of freerange, oven-ready geese and bronze turkeys. In 2007, Judy Goodman became a Fellow of The Royal Agricultural Society in recognition of outstanding service to and achievement within the agricultural industry. FREE-RANGE BRONZE TURKEYS Bronze turkeys are produced to the highest welfare standards and are fed on natural foods containing no additives or growth promoters and are matured for seven to 10 days to enhance the flavour.

The black feather stubs are one sure way to recognise a real turkey – there can be no imitations because a bronze turkey can only be traditionally reared on the farm. The stubs shrivel during cooking.

Do not forget to either pour over some melted goose fat or butter, or a few pieces of bacon over the legs of the turkey to keep them moist and cover them with a triangular piece of foil.

JUDY’S TIPS

Line your roasting tin with foil, then place the turkey into the meat tin and cover the breast with either melted goose fat, butter or some rashers of bacon and season well. If your oven is very hot place a piece of foil over the breast of the turkey to stop it burning.

The black feather stubs are a sure way to recognise a real bronze turkey. There is no need to remove the stubs as they just shrivel during cooking. Long, slow cooking is the best, but do remember to cover the legs before you place your Goodman’s free-range bronze turkey into the oven. Do not forget to fill the cavity of the turkey with chopped onions, apples, thyme, parsley or some mixed herbs of your choice. This helps to keep the turkey moist. A sausage meat stuffing is also very good.

If after the first hour you want to turn your turkey over, use two meat tins and do not forget to cover the legs with foil. Pour some of the liquid fat over the back to help to keep it moist. For a very large turkey it’s better to cook it breast side up. If it is a 4.5 - 5.5kg turkey turn back after the second hour. Baste again and keep the legs covered and cook for another ½ to 1 hour depending on the size. When you take the turkey out of the oven, leave to stand for at least 15 – 20 minutes so that the meat rests making carving so much easier. Enjoy!

Visit: www.goodmansgeese.co.uk Call: 01299 896272

9 17


> flavour the marlborough tavern

A delighted Angela Mount reconnects with one of Bath’s favourite haunts…

The Marlborough Tavern A

sk many Bath locals where they eat out, and ‘Marlborough Tavern’ is frequently near the top of their list. A pub, or ‘tavern’, which combines great atmosphere, good beer and a combination of classic pub dishes and elegant cuisine ticks most of the boxes on any food lover’s list. As one of now three classic pubs owned by the Bath Pub Company (the latest acquisition being the recently renovated The Hare & Hounds in Lansdown), The Marlborough Tavern embodies the company’s ethos of providing a warm, welcoming ambience, great décor, and a menu that changes regularly and has an absolute focus on local and seasonal ingredients. One of the greatest assets of the Marlborough Tavern, with its elegant 18thcentury façade and décor, is its ability to match the mood and the weather of each season. At the time of our visit, the log fires were burning and the lighting was warm and inviting, encouraging guests to settle at the wooden tables and relax. A recent visit on one of the rare hot, sunny days of the so-called summer was the ultimate in ‘al fresco’ dining, as The Marlborough Tavern boasts a beautiful, walled garden, with high trellises, an abundance of plants and an assortment of sturdy tables and comfortable seating. All seemed perfect, until a few rumbles around the Bath loyal followers this summer indicated that there were a few ‘blips’ in the usual precision, execution and style of the cooking. Having spoken to director, Joe Cussens, he was extremely pragmatic and did not disagree: “During the summer, we were going through a great deal of changes across the three pubs, including staffing, and it’s fair to say, that maybe things slipped a tiny bit.” It was encouraging to hear such honest feedback from the person at the helm, and 18

even more encouraging and exciting to witness the changes that have taken place over the past few months. With these opinions, and this feedback in mind, I went to dine at the Marlborough Tavern on a rainy October evening, not entirely sure what to expect. I was delighted with the outcome! Firstly, there is a new Head Chef at the helm, Sam Coltman, who has been in the kitchen for nine months, but had only been in the top job for three weeks. With a passion for beautifully executed, precisely cooked, yet uncomplicated food, he names Cornish, two-Michelin star chef, Nathan Outlaw, as one of his sources of inspiration. The menu covers every need, from the classic, but exquisitely prepared ‘pub grub’ beer battered fish, the ‘Marlborough Tavern burger’, to top-quality steaks from local butchers Walter Rose and Son, through a range of ‘plates to share’, which includes a seafood platter with prawns, haddock goujons and some of the seasonal fish starters on the menu. Too many so called ‘gastropubs’ get too serious; here you can come and enjoy a simple meal, with a pint of Tunnel Vision Ale from the local Box Brewery, or a glass of wine – but then again, you can enjoy the entire experience of stylish and imaginative cuisine across three courses, for an outstanding dining experience. We started with delicately flavoured salmon and crab ‘bonbons’ in a light, crunchy coating with salmon tartare and horseradish crème fraiche; and from the daily ‘specials’, a beautifully presented plate of seared, hand-dived Lyme Bay scallops, with an eclectic mix of Stornoway black pudding, cauliflower purée and hazelnut butter – meltingly tender, the sweetness of the scallops married perfectly with the intensity of the other ingredients.

We both opted to challenge the chef and go for the main courses on the ‘Daily Specials’ menu and were not disappointed; a perfectly cooked pan-fried fillet of linecaught wild seabass, with plump steamed mussels and braised fennel in a Pernod and chive cream, was my choice, but my friend’s choice of roast Creedy carver duck, with spiced pumpkin purée, curly kale, candy beetroot and confit duck leg spring roll, was inspired – in her words, ‘simply the most tender and perfectly cooked’ duck she had ever tasted, and it was indeed divine, with the sweetness of the pumpkin and the earthiness of the beetroot adding to the richness and diversity of flavours. Portions are very generous, none more so than with the incredible sounding (and tasting) Baileys crème brûlée, with chocolate chip biscuit; often an easy dish to get wrong, this was spot on. I chose to explore the cheeses and was delighted to see Sharpham Ewe’s and a very fresh Celtic Gold washed rind in the selection. The wine list is well constructed, with a wide variety of styles and a broad range by the glass. Coffee was seriously good. It was great to see the focus and passion on local ingredients, with an out and out mission to buy as much from local producers, and a menu that changes its specials daily, putting more pressure on the chef, but showcasing his skill and imagination. The Marlborough Tavern is back on top form!

35 Marlborough Buildings, Bath BA1 2LY call 01225 423 731 Visit www.marlborough-tavern.com


The wine list is well constructed, with a wide variety of styles and a broad range by the glass.



> flavour shane jordan

Shane Jordan THE EDUCATIONAL CHEF

Bristol’s vegetarian chef Shane Jordan started cooking when he was asked to volunteer in a veggie food stall in Broadmead.

People liked what he did so much that he continued to help and promote the positive aspects of a veggie diet. After he finished with food stalls he started working at Kabele Cafe in Easton where he had the chance to experiment with food and try new recipes. Once his reputation was built he started to help with events such as Taunton Vegan Fair, Bristol Vegan Fayre and Bristol and Brighton Vegfest UK. “I enjoyed cooking but I always wanted to test myself, so I was in search of a new approach. A friend took me to Easton Community Centre where I saw volunteers from Bristol University cooking meals for the community. I wanted to help and they told me their philosophy of cooking based on surplus food and I became fascinated. “These fascinations led me to joining the team. They called themselves FoodCycle, taking surplus food from local businesses and making community meals to reduce Ingredients: 2 tsp coconut oil Agave nectar or maple syrup 5 handfuls of desiccated (shredded) coconut 1 handful of dried apricots

food waste. In a few months I became cooking manager and led my own team of volunteers. While doing that I helped with a climate change movement called Green Vision in Bath, and came up with my famous ‘banana skin curry’ and started doing work in schools. “I teamed up with Natural Balance and gave talks and dished out food samples to local schools, enabling me to get feedback from the children about the issues they have with food, and encouraging them to try different things and question their way of living. “I have now joined forces with MP Kerry McCarthy and the Bristol City Council to reduce food waste, and made an alliance with WRAP (Waste & Resources Action Programme) creating surplus meals to aid their campaign Love Food Hate Waste. I will be working with Bath and North East Somerset Council’s waste awareness officers next year, and hope to improve food waste knowledge in these cities. I hope to do bigger projects in the future – perhaps London.”

Coconut Island Cakes This is a very simple recipe that anyone can make. Method: Place all the ingredients in your food processor and add maple syrup until it’s all mixed together. If you are able to make a ball from the mixture then it is ready, but if it doesn’t stick together then just add more syrup. Make little balls and place on a plate and put them in the fridge for 20 minutes before eating as a sweet, healthy snack. Enjoy!

xx

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Ladies that Lunch If ‘Ladies that Lunch’ is seen as some sort of stereotype, then bring it on. What can be better than meeting up with a few pals, taking in some retail therapy and then sitting down to catch up, eat some great food and maybe squeeze in a cheeky glass of wine or two? These great venues are just perfect for that very scenario…

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Ladies that Lunch

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Ladies that Lunch

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Rhubarb

The Garden Café

Come and have lunch and a glass of wine in the ‘grown-up café’, with fabulous locally sourced food, soups, tarts and interesting salads.

Jane Austen once wrote to her companion – “There is a public breakfast in Sydney Gardens every morning, so we shall not be wholly starved.” It seems her lead was followed last year when the lovely Garden Café was opened at The Holburne Museum.

This new café, just off Pulteney Bridge, Bath, delivers a punch when it comes to produce and is a great ‘ladies that lunch’ option with a touch of panache. Great service and an OPI nail bar upstairs make for the perfect spot to lunch!

With panoramic views of the garden surrounding the café due to the vastness of glass walls, we’re sure Ms Austen would approve, especially as the menu provides lashings of fresh salads and homemade tarts and quiches.

Rhubarb 2 Grove Street, Bath BA2 6PJ Call: 01225 421575

The Garden Café Holburne Museum, Great Pulteney Street, Bath BA2 4DB Call: 01225 388572 Visit: www.holburne.org

Indulgence Café

Brasserie Blanc

Indulgence Café and Patisserie in Bathwick Street, Bath, is the ideal venue for a ladies’ lunch. They offer a delicious selection of freshly made lunch specials, salads, sandwiches, savouries and brunches, as well as an

Brasserie Blanc has it all going on for ladies that lunch. Both Bristol and Bath brasseries are in beautiful areas known for great shopping and, with their Raymond Blanc set menu starting at £11.50 for two courses, spoiling yourself is really easy. indulgent array of cakes, cookies, desserts and fabulous coffees. They are also fully licensed, in case a cheeky glass of wine is needed to complement your lunch!

Indulgence Café 31 Bathwick Street, Bath BA2 6NZ Call: 01225 316265 Visit: www.indulgence-cafe.co.uk

From November 26, you can also start collecting points on the new Frequent Diner Card, redeemable for a selection of fabulous free gifts. Throughout January quote ‘flavour’ with any main course ordered to upgrade your lunchtime glass of house wine to bubbly. Brasserie Blanc Bath Brasserie Blanc Bristol Call: 01225 303860 Call: 0117 9102410 Visit: www.brasserieblanc.com 25


Ladies that Lunch

Goodfellows Plenty of restaurants claim to cater for all, but Goodfellows in Wells does everything effortlessly and expertly. Award-winning chef-patron Adam Fellows and his team serve up divine fish dishes in the seafood restaurant, perfect for a midweek supper or special occasion. The adjoining café/bakery is the go-to place for great value lunch (only a tenner for two courses with wine) and you’ll have trouble leaving without a box of patisserie and an artisan loaf. The setting? A quirky building just a stone’s throw from the cathedral.

Café Lucca The phrase ‘ladies that lunch’ brings back the memory of Edina and Patsy from Ab Fab enjoying a Champagne lunch at Harvey Nichols or Dauphne’s in Knightsbridge. Now it’s Café Lucca’s turn to have a delicious lunch surrounded by the smart set of Bath. Café Lucca has a light but satisfying menu featuring gourmet salads, panini and bruschetta, as well as quiche and terrines made with the finest ingredients. With sun pouring through its floor to ceiling windows, Café Lucca is the perfect place for ladies who lunch and, with a glass of chilled Prosecco, you could be in Knightsbridge…

Goodfellowswells 5 Sadler Street, City Centre, Wells BA5 2RR Call: 01749 673 866 Visit: www.goodfellowswells.co.uk

Café Lucca 1 Bartlett St, Bath BA1 2QZ Call: 01225 335 380 Visit: www.cafelucca.co.uk

Aió

Kilver Court

Aió is the first and only Italian restaurant in the UK to specialise in Sardinian cuisine. They are proud to serve the freshest seafood, chargrilled steaks, homemade pasta, the Sardinian fregola and on Sundays a Sardinian-style roast piglet.

A special lunch awaits your group in Bath and, for ‘ladies that lunch’, it’s the perfect place to meet up, enjoy great food and while away an hour or two with friends in a perfect and central environment.

Aió 7 Edgar Buildings, George Street, Bath BA1 2EE Call: 01225 443900 Visit: www.aiorestaurant.co.uk 26

Sustainability champion and Mulberry founder Roger Saul has opened a unique pop-up restaurant – Stage 1 - that uses reclaimed props and artefacts from British film sets to create a truly theatrical dining experience.

including spelt and venison from Sharpham Park, Roger Saul’s organic food farm. Stage 1 will open Tuesday to Sundays, serving dinner Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights.

Located in the heart of Kilver Court Designer Village, Shepton Mallet, Stage 1 Bar and Brasserie offers a seasonal menu with a strong focus on locally sourced produce Kilver Court Shepton Mallet, BA4 5NF Call: 07768 930380 Visit: www.kilvercourt.com email: stage1@kilvercourt.com


Ladies that Lunch

The Allium Brasserie

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ight in the middle of Bath, just a stone’s throw from the Abbey and the busy shopping streets, you’ll find one of the most exciting new arrivals in the city. The Allium Brasserie, under head chef Chris Staines, has already tucked the Best Newcomer Award in the 2012 Bath Good Food Awards under its belt and is in the top three places to eat in the city on Trip Advisor. Chris is no stranger to accolades – he had a Michelin star at his previous restaurant in London – but there is nothing showy or pompous here at Allium, just superb food, created from the freshest seasonal ingredients and put together with total panache. Open all day, morning coffee is served either in the contemporary lounge, where you’ll be surrounded by an exhibition of modern art or, if

the weather’s fine, on the pavement terrace. Allium is then open from 12 noon until 9pm serving an utterly flexible menu from which you can choose a one-course snack, a salad bursting with flavour, or a more sedate two-course fixed price menu (£14.95pp, available until 7pm) which, in January and February, will include a glass of wine or Prosecco.

Choose Allium for a celebration and, for parties of six or more, the price will include a birthday cake and a glass of Prosecco for everyone. For 2013 Allium plans a series of events for Bath in Fashion and is hosting events for Bath festivals – get your name down and don’t miss out.

Afternoon Tea is a proper event at The Allium too, with homemade cakes and scones, sandwiches made from home-baked bread and a delici ous choice of teas. The mood is informal and relaxed – a great place to catch up with friends for lunch or take a break from work or shopping, or to spend an evening out over an amazing à la carte menu and a bottle of wine from the exciting wine cellar.

The Abbey Hotel and Allium Brasserie 1 North Parade, Bath BA1 1LF Call: 01225 461603 Visit: www.abbeyhotelbath.co.uk 27



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Rhubarb. More than just a café. If you read the website it will tell you that, ‘Rhubarb Café and Nail Bar was born out of a desire to provide a space to eat, meet and relax in Bath that allows adults to be adults while still helping busy parents juggle family life.’ But it’s so much more than that. Set just off Pulteney Bridge in Bath, Rhubarb, opened just a few months ago by Jill Blane, offers a pleasant alternative to the thriving conglomerates on the busy high street. That’s not to say that Rhubarb is not busy, does not have Wi-Fi, an abundant selection of coffees, teas, cakes or quality of service, because it is and it does on all counts. What makes Rhubarb unique is that, as an independent, it feels like a coffee house should do. It is both intimate and vibrant. Jill has taken her extensive

travel experience, seen a lot of things she has liked and has brought them home to Bath. Before 3.30pm you can be assured of peace and quiet as this is ‘adults only’ time – the young ones are more than welcome after school to grab an early supper, a hot chocolate or locally produced fruit drink (Rhubarb is licensed, so adults don’t fret). And I think this is what brings a distinct charm to this café – that and its nail bar. Now, there are certain things in this world that seem to have a natural fit – eggs and bacon, wine and cheese, Kojak and lollipops – and I think a cup of delicious coffee or a glass of bubbly for the less virtuous while having your nails tended fits the bill just perfectly. Upstairs at Rhubarb, the Champagne Nail Bar oozes calm and a bit of pampering is always a good thing.

Ji ll Bl an e The food at Rhubarb is simple, locally sourced and utterly delicious. From wholesome breakfasts to healthy lunches and teatime treats, the produce is locally sourced and lovingly prepared (if the bread and butter pudding cake is on the menu, have it!), Head Chef Andy Lam delivering bags of taste to household favourites. Bath is home to a plethora of coffee shops and teahouses, but Rhubarb is something a little bit different. Jill has provided the people of the city with a ‘home from home’ enclave that beats the rush. You may be forgiven walking past Rhubarb once, twice would be a mistake.

2 Grove Street, Bath BA2 6PJ 01225 421575 www.rhubarb.me.uk

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> flavour chefs’ forum

Chefs’ Forum

Autumn Lunch at The Bath Priory

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> flavour chefs’ forum

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By Angela Mount

n a grey and dull Monday in October, the spirits of those lucky enough to attend were lifted by the first-ever Chefs’ Forum Autumn Lunch in the luxurious surroundings of the Bath Priory Hotel, hosted by recent Michelin-starred Head Chef, Sam Moody.

Manor, Devon. An elegant and beautifully poised dish, with the earthy pungency of artichokes and ceps marrying well with the meltingly tender mi-cuit salmon. A vibrant, ripe, fruity South African white, Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc 2011, full of lively melon and pear character was the perfect match for this.

In aid of The Ark Foundation, part of the Hospitality Action Charity, and chaired by Jamie Oliver and Heston Blumenthal, six of the South West’s best and Michelinstarred chefs created one course each for a sumptuous lunch, showcasing the very best cooking that the West has to offer.

Already reeling from the beauty of the presentation and flavours of the dishes shown so far, guests were then treated to a classic from the host Sam Moody of the Bath Priory. With his passion for local produce and an elegant rusticity about his dishes, where he lets the ingredients speak for themselves, his rose veal, brisket and sweet bread, with caramelised shallot, cauliflower and hazelnut veal jus, was meltingly tender, and encapsulated the feel of autumn, with multi layers of flavours. Partnering this to perfection was a Louis Jadot Beaune Premier Cru 2004; ripe, mature and silky smooth, with raspberry and gamey character.

The Chefs’ Forum was founded in January 2012, and born out of a desire to unite top chefs and suppliers, and showcase the incredible talent that is in the South West. Top Michelin chefs have joined forces with local catering colleges to support, mentor and motivate the next generation of talent. The chefs work closely together to support and develop this new venture, and the Autumn Lunch line up read like a who’s who of the top star-studded talent from the South West. Following a range of delightful ‘Little tastes of Autumn’ canapés, courtesy of Bath Priory, and served with the creamily fresh Champagne Taittinger Brut Reserve NV, guests proceeded to the dining room to welcome the first course. Josh Eggleton, from the Pony & Trap, Chew Magna, showcased meltingly tender grilled bone marrow with a tangy caper, lime and shrimp butter, which balanced the rich intensity of the dish, and worked well with a pungent, but mellow 2008 Sancerre, La Grande Chatelaine de Joseph Mellot, with its fresh acidity. This was followed by a spectacularly presented dish from Simon Hulstone of The Elephant in Torquay – pressed terrine of smoked eel and foie gras with pickled apples and lovage gel; smokey, rich, intense, with the pickled apples adding a perfect cut-through note to the wonderful textures and power of the dish. Vidal Estates Riesling, 2011, from New Zealand was just the right wine to cope, with its lime fresh, zesty yet aromatic style, strong enough to complement and enhance the layers of flavour in the dish. Next up was an exquisite dish of cured and charred salmon, with garden artichokes, and a cep purée, prepared by John Hooker, from Lewtranchard

Martin Blunos, well-known to Bath residents and a Bath local himself (who formerly ran the two Michelinstarred Lettonie at Bath Priory, and now runs Hogarths), then thrilled with a presentation of his quirky signature dish, ‘boiled egg and soldiers’, a delightful pre-dessert. The deceptive-looking boiled egg is in fact a dreamy vanilla cream, with mango purée for the yolk, and shortbread fingers. An inventive delight, and one enjoyed with the rich, stylish flavours of Taittinger Nocturne NV. Finally the culinary extravaganza came to a close with a sumptuous dessert from Russell Brown from Sienna in Dorset – an intense golden syrup and mascarpone mousse with ginger and lemon – rich gingerbread cake and lively citrus flavours, supported by a small glass of the lusciously decadent Errazuriz late harvest Sauvignon blanc dessert wine from Chile. An incredible occasion, and a challenge for seven top chefs to work in one kitchen, but they did it with aplomb and great spirit. It was also inspiring for some of the catering students who were in the audience to witness first-hand the talent of these top chefs, and who left with further resolve to become the talent of the next generation. We can’t wait till the next event!

www.thechefsforum.co.uk 31


Guilbert’s Chocolatiers

Bristol Cider Shop

Guilbert’s have a true passion for excellence and all of their chocolates are entirely handmade and hand dipped.

Based on the Christmas Steps, Bristol Cider Shop is like a Santa’s grotto for grown-ups! From hot mulled cider to cider brandy and cider gifts, they have the perfect range of festive tipples to make it a truly merry Christmas!

High-quality ingredients, unique artistry, technical expertise, and cherished recipes handed down through generations combine to create a taste of pure indulgence.

And this year you can also find them at both Bath and Bristol Christmas Markets. They will be at Kingston Parade in Bath from November 22 to December 9 and then in Broadmead in Bristol from December 6 to December 23.

Only the recipes have been preserved, all of our products are freshly made and preservative free.

0117 926 8102 www.guilberts.com

0117 382 1679 www.bristolcidershop.co.uk

flavour THIS MONTH’S MUST DO, BUY & SEE...

Gilcombe Farm A family run operation near Bruton in Somerset, Gilcombe Farm has its own butchery, kitchens and farm shop all based on the farm. They also sell through their website and offer nationwide delivery. They produce their own organic beef, chicken, lamb, eggs, unpasturised milk, ducks and turkeys, and also offer nonorganic, free-range products from other local farms, including dry-cured bacon, ham and gammon. At Christmas they are busy with both their own organic and free-range turkeys, the perfect Christmas lunch.

01749 813710 www.gilcombefarm.com

Maison Chaplais A Maison Chaplais hamper could be the perfect Christmas gift for your best friend, tricky uncle, brother-in-law or grandparent. Made to your specification, to be delivered on the date of your choice with a handwritten note from you, Maison Chaplais can make you a hamper for the cheese lover, the budding chef, or simply containing the luxury extras that everyone loves to have during the Christmas season.

01242 570222 www.maisonchaplais.com xx


Plant tags –

GRASSE GRASSE is a stylish shop that caters for garden and homes, providing a range of goodies including; wellies, lanterns, home fragrances, dining and glassware, gents gifts and bags, a comprehensive garden range, soft furnishings, bespoke antiques, skincare and accessories and many, many more. Pop down today or visit online to find just what you are looking for…

01225 444260 www.grasse.me.uk

Langsfords Preserves Langfords Preserves create quality, contemporary preserves made via traditional methods and using locally sourced seasonal produce – with no artificial additives. Gifts range from mulled wine kits to bespoke luxury hampers, all showcasing local produce. Regular markets; Devizes, Malmesbury, Corsham, Bradford on Avon, Marlborough and other events on website.

£9.50

Secateurs – £19.99

Bristol Blue Glass Watch experienced glass blowers in action on December 1 at the Bristol Blue Glass Open Day where you will also be able to create your own Christmas bauble for just £10 (normally £12.50 on any other day). Receive a very warm welcome and indulge in all the Christmas ideas of Bristol Blue Glass including; engraved glass, decanters, vases, jugs, candlesticks, plates and jewellery. Also visit the sister shop at Bath Aqua Glass – www.bathaquaglass.com.

0117 972 0818 www.bristol-glass.co.uk

07738 535960 www.langsfords-preserves.co.uk

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> flavour the teen chef

BAGELS IngredIenTS • 7g of yeast (not old yeast, I used old stuff once and it didn’t work) • 4 tbsp of sugar • 450g strong bread flour • Topping of your choice (if you want one)

the

teen chef For this issue, I’ve decided to make bagels. Almost everyone has them in their bread bins but they are one of those products that you never think of making yourself. I first thought of baking them when I saw them in The Great British Bake-Off. Yes, I am a fan of the Bake-Off. Unlike the fancy flavours and toppings they produced on the programme, the simple bagel is rather easy to make – if you are prepared to wait around.

James Underdown – flavour’s 15-year-old budding chef – has been back in the kitchen this month to serve up another one of his mouthwatering treats.

I personally love bagels. I have to say that my favourite topping is just plain old poppy or sesame seeds coated with cream cheese or, if you feel fancy, cream cheese and smoked salmon. This is my final entry into flavour. This recipe will be my 10th and I’ve been doing this for just over a year. Not only I, but also the magazine has evolved a great deal over the past 11 issues. Looking back at my first recipe, it was simply a layered dessert, no cooking needed, and only last time I was telling you how to make pork schnitzel with a cider source. Alas cooking is going to take a back seat now my schoolwork has kicked up a gear. So it’s goodbye from the Teen Chef!

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MeThod 1. Put the yeast in a large bowl with 1tbsp of the sugar and 100ml of warm water and leave for about 10 minutes. You should see that the mixture has become frothy. 2. Pour in 200ml of warm water, stir in the salt and half the flour. Combine lightly adding a little more flour until the dough doesn’t stick – you may not need all of the flour. Knead the dough for 10 minutes until it is stretchy and soft. Glaze a clean bowl with oil and put the dough in the bowl. Loosely cover and put in a warm environment for about an hour. 3. Heat up the oven to 220˚C. Divide the dough evenly depending on how many you wish to make. Fill a large pan with water and boil it. While the water is boiling shape the bagels. Get a wooden spoon and make a hole that is between 3–5 cms. 4. Once the water is boiling tip in the leftover sugar. Place a few of the bagels into the pan and blanch them for 1–2 minutes; when you take them out they should have a glossy ‘skin’. Repeat this on all of the bagels making sure all excess water has drained off. Cover a baking tray with parchment, put any toppings on them (pressing down) and bake for 25 minutes or until golden brown.


Cosy winter warmers It’s cold, it’s raining and the telly isn’t necessarily solving all your woes. Solution? Well, perhaps you should take a short drive or ideally a brisk stroll and venture out to the pub, where you can be looked after in warm and comfortable surroundings with a soothing pint or glass of wine. This time of year is all about the finer things in life and a cosy bar with some decent nosh pretty much covers all those bases…

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Cosy winter warmers

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The Moody Goose at The Old Priory

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ituated in the market town of Midsomer Norton and just a short drive from the cities of Bath, Bristol and Wells, The Old Priory is reputed to be one of the oldest houses in Somerset and dates back to the 12th century when The Priory was founded. It was run as such until the reformation when Henry VIII seized it and passed the ownership to Christchurch College, Oxford. Original architectural features from this period still exist, including a secret tunnel running to the local church. The heavy oak-beamed ceilings and large inglenook fireplace in the lounge date back to the 15th century, and the fireplace in the private dining room is Tudor. A woodburning stove welcomes guests into the cosy lounge during the cold winter months. The restaurant rooms and lounge all have original stone flooring and waiting staff have to be practised at balancing table

legs on the worn and uneven flagstones! The ambience of this historic building combined with the award-winning Moody Goose restaurant, provide guests with a splendid atmosphere in which to dine and relax. The kitchen specialises in modern English cuisine and the menus are changed regularly to reflect the seasons, featuring fresh local produce where possible. The head chef, Tony Casey, came to The Old Priory with an impressive background including two years at the Pump House in Bristol. He has developed a new Christmas menu including innovative dishes such as carpaccio of venison with chestnuts, chocolate and pickled mushrooms and trio of Christmas pudding trifle, Christmas cake and

Church Square, Midsomer Norton, Bath. BA3 2HX Call: 01761 416784 Visit: www.theoldpriory.co.uk 36

Christmas parfait. This menu is available from the end of November and can be seen online at The Old Priory website. The Old Priory also has a choice of individually decorated hotel rooms all with en suite bathrooms suitable for couples, travelling business people and families.


Cosy winter warmers

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The Natterjack Inn Now that winter is here and Christmas not far off, The Natterjack Inn is the perfect place to cosy up for Sunday lunch with the family, dinner with friends or a candlelit supper for two. Sunday roasts are a treat; beautifully tender sirloin of beef, roastpork or glazed baked gammon all from local farms together with homemade Yorkshire pudding, crackling, crispy roasters and fresh seasonal veg. Finish off with one of The Natterjack’s famous homemade desserts; meringue topped with red berries and Chantilly cream, warm chocolate fudge cake and spicy plum crumble to name but a few. For the perfect break you can retire to one of the five beautiful bedrooms in the recently converted Old Cider house. Each room has its own style, blending antique furniture with retro prints to create a luxurious yet homely feel. A warm welcome, wonderful food and Casque Mark real ales await you at The Natterjack Inn.

Evercreech Junction, Evercreech, Shepton Mallett BA4 6NA Call: 01749 860253 Visit: www.thenatterjackinn.co.uk

21 West Café Bistro

Clavelshay Barn

A warm and cosy neighbourhood bistro serving Backwell and the surrounding area. Open all day and as a café in the morning, 21 West Café bistro serves illy-branded coffees, teas, fresh pastries and cooked breakfasts. The menu then extends for lunchtime with a range of items to suit most, from a value £10 twocourse set menu to sandwiches, salads and a bowl of simple fresh soup served with homemade bread. In the evening the wine bar and bistro is open for business. The menu is a modern take on French, international and the best of English cuisine, using quality local and seasonal produce. The menus change daily and are refreshingly simple. 21 West have their own pastry chef who produces all of the cakes and a range of truly mouth-watering desserts. 21 West Town Road, Backwell, North Somerset BS48 3HA Call: 01275 463744 Visit: www.21-west.co.uk

When winter rolls around at Clavelshay Barn, an awardwinning sustainable restaurant set in a lovingly restored 18th-century stone barn at the foot of the Quantock Hills, head chef Guy Horley and his team like to pull out all the stops. Expect delicious, heartwarming recipes inspired by the wealth of hearty, fresh ingredients from the Somerset region. Full of flavour, these dishes are the ultimate in comfort winter fare. Just a taster of winter warmer dishes at Clavelshay: roasted somerset belly pork on bubble and squeak with caramelised apples and a dijon mustard sauce; stuffed Clavelshay pheasant breast, pot roasted leg on crushed root vegetables with fondant potato and spiced cider sauce; sticky toffee pudding accompanied by toffee sauce and clotted cream or the apple, cinnamon rice pudding brulée with amaretti biscuits and creme fraiche. Enjoy! Clavelshay, North Petherton TA6 6PJ Call: 01278 662629 Visit: www.clavelshaybarn.co.uk 37


Cosy winter warmers

ACACIA COTTAGes For special birthday breaks, weekends away with friends or hen parties with a touch of class...

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cacia Cottages provide self-catering country cottages for groups of six or more people staying from two to seven nights, together with activities such as wine-tasting, horse-riding, shopping trips, beauty and holistic therapy treatments, even surfing and coasteering. Their holidays are tailored to your requirements and are available all year round so they’re convenient for you. Whether it’s relaxing by log fires in winter or soaking up the sun in summer, they’ll provide you, and your group, with the perfect break. Their ethos is that people should be making the most of their spare time. With everybody leading busy lives, and friends and family becoming more dispersed, getting everyone together can be near impossible. And then you’ve got to decide where to go, what to do and, finally, organise it all. This is where Acacia can be of help. Their website gives ideas and suggestions on the ‘where’ and the ‘what’ then, once you’re ready, pick up the phone and together you can plan the perfect weekend for you and your group. Once the date is confirmed, they organise it all to your specifications and supply a detailed holiday plan.

Somerset Stone Chapel with Hot Tub

So whether you’re celebrating a birthday or anniversary, looking for a hen weekend with a difference, or just wanting to get away with a few friends, visit the website, then give them a call or send them an email, they’re always happy to help. Chew Farmhouse with Spa

e cottage was great “We had a fantastic time – th and perfect for a hen do...”

www.acaciacottages.co.uk info@acaciacottages.co.uk 01275 332186 0800 234 6039 38


Cosy winter warmers

Farmers Arms

eden Vale Farm

The Farmers Arms is a converted farmhouse and retains many original features such as exposed stone walls and wooden beams. It has a unique character, full of rustic charm and with a relaxing ambience. In the heart of the Somerset countryside but only five minutes’ drive from Taunton, the Farmers Arms is the perfect location for an escape to the country. Enjoy lovely open views of the surrounding fields and hills and don’t forget to spend time in the pretty beer garden. The Farmers Arms is ideally situated for walkers and horse riders, being part of the Neroche Staple Fitzpaine Herepath (old English for ‘people’s path’), a 13.5-mile offroad trail. The Farmers Arms offers an excellent menu, fine ale and a relaxing beer garden. Higher West Hatch, Taunton, Somerset TA3 5RS Call: 01823 480 980 Visit: www.farmersarmssomerset.co.uk

Eden Vale Farm nestles down in a valley by the River Frome. Enjoying a picturesque location, this old watermill, mentioned in the Domesday book, offers a selection of rooms including en suite facilities, complemented by an excellent choice of full English or continental breakfasts, using local produce. Beckington is an ideal centre for visiting Bath, Longleat, Salisbury, Cheddar, Stourhead and many National Trust houses including Lacock Village. Eden Vale Farm is only a ten-minute walk to the village pub and has three quarters of a mile of river fishing for guests to enjoy. Mill Lane, Beckington, Nr Frome, Somerset BA11 6SN Call: 01373 830371 Visit: www.edenvalefarm.co.uk

Old Down Bistro Nestled within the Old Down Country Park and Manor’s 66-acre estate, a truly relaxed dining experience can be had at Old Down Bistro – housed in a beautiful old barn with a canopy of exposed beams, a warm and inviting atmosphere, friendly staff and delicious food expertly infused. Old Down Bistro is proud to support and promote the achievements of its neighbouring farmers, who provide the delicious locally reared meat for the table, while the team of expert gardeners work relentlessly to provide a rich bounty of tender vegetables and sweet, juicy, seasonal fruits. Head chef, Manuel Perez-Monzon believes firmly in championing the use of local produce, and can often be spotted wandering around the beautiful vegetable gardens, handpicking the ingredients he needs to create a delicious seasonal menu that truly embodies the taste of the countryside. Old Down Bistro, Foxholes Lane, Tockington, Bristol. BS32 4PG Call: 01454 414958 Visit: www.olddownbistro.co.uk

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Cosy winter warmers

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The Holcombe Inn

The Horse and Groom

This 17th-Century inn has the warmest of atmospheres, beautifully designed interiors with burning log fires, cosy snug rooms, a packed bar full of handpicked wines (over 20 by the glass), organic English larger, local ciders on tap, botanical spirits and a fascinating whiskey selection! The candlelit restaurant leading from the bar serves only fresh, locally sourced produce (wherever possible) and has received numerous awards for culinary excellence. Food is served seven days a week lunch and dinner, and all day Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Each of the eight rooms are individually designed and named – from ‘Africa’ with its gold freestanding roll-top bath and huge wet room to ‘Champagne’, Frenchstyled with shuttered windows, a big brass bed and double-ended bath for two with waterfall taps. Stratton Road, Holcombe, Somerset BA3 5EB Call: 01761 232478 Visit: www.holcombeinn.co.uk

North Wheddon Farm

Enjoy country hospitality at its best with a relaxing stay amid stunning scenery. North Wheddon Farm is a beautiful listed farmhouse with a Georgian feel. High ceilings and large open fires make for a country house feel with River Cottage-style dining. Winter breaks are available for self catering and B&B.

Wheddon Cross, Minehead, Exmoor TA24 7EX Call: 01643 841 791 Visit: www.go-exmoor.co.uk 40

The Horse and Groom Inn is one of those rare Wiltshire pubs where you can be promised truly sensational food, real ales and stylish accommodation all set in glorious surroundings on the edge of the Cotswolds. The cosy bar with flagstone floors and open log fire is warm and welcoming, while the restaurant provides a relaxing and charming space to sample the awardwinning menus. There are also five spacious and stylish bedrooms with their own large and airy bathroom, complete with roll-top bath. The Street, Charlton, Wiltshire SN16 9DL Call: 01666 823904 Visit: www.horseandgroomcharlton.com

The George & Dragon Traditionally a 16thcentury coaching inn, The George & Dragon is a pub and restaurant with luxury accommodation combining modern-day style with bundles of country character. Their aim is to offer that little bit extra for guests – gentle, professional hospitality at affordable prices. Whether it’s a relaxing pint in front of the fire, a treat in the restaurant or a night away from it all, The George & Dragon is the perfect choice. With a renowned seafood pedigree, it’s no wonder they have received two AA Rosettes.

High Street Rowde, Devizes, Wiltshire SN10 2PN Call: 01380 723053 Visit: www.thegeorgeanddragonrowde.co.uk


Cosy winter warmers

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The Green Dragon Inn

The Wheatsheaf Cosy up by the roaring log fire and sample the best seasonal winter food in the South west; including hearty soups and home-baked breads, local game and puddings all prepared by Eddy Rains – South West Regional winner of ITV’s Britain’s Best Dish.

The Green Dragon Inn is a 17th-century building situated 15 minutes from Cheltenham, Gloucester and Cirencester with tranquil and picturesque countryside walks right from the doorstep. This is a popular retreat for those who appreciate good food, fine wine and real ales.

Christmas party menus are available from December 1. Relax on Christmas Eve with the famous Trio of Roasts Lunch and don’t forget the gourmet New Year’s Eve Dinner.

On colder days, relax for the evening by open log fires in the oak-beamed ceiling bars and stay the night in one of the comfortably furnished en suite rooms. Cockleford, Nr Cowley, Cheltenham, Glos. GL53 9NW Call: 01242 870271 Visit: www.green-dragon-inn.co.uk

The Wheelwrights Arms

Combe Hay, Bath, Avon BA2 7EG Call: 01225 833 504 Visit: www.wheatsheafcombehay.co.uk

The Curfew

The Wheelwrights Arms Country Inn is nestled in the peaceful village of Monkton Combe and surrounded by picturesque hills and valleys on the edge of Bath. A real feet warmer, The Wheelwrights Arms has plenty going on this time of year including Christmas party menus at £19.50 for two courses or £23.50 for threecourses. They also put on monthly six-course taster menus from around the world. Visit the website for information on all events. The lunchtime twocourse menu costs just £12, and Sunday lunches are just £11.90. The seven beautiful en-suite bedrooms will enable you to maximise your visit! Church Lane, Monkton Combe, Bath, Avon BA2 7HB Call: 01225 722287 Visit: www.wheelwrightsarms.co.uk

The Curfew Ale House and Dining Room is a characterful building with coal-burning stove, church candles and dimmed lighting that makes it cosy, intimate and the perfect place to escape to on a winter’s day. Then there’s the food. The fact it’s of the seasons and the local area means you know that you are in for a real treat in the colder months; classic stews, perfectly cooked day-boat Cornish fish and all with the little extra twists. The Sunday roasts are not to be missed either. Booking is recommended but if you’re happy just to relax and enjoy a happy, cosy environment then wander in.

11 Cleveland Place West, Bath BA1 5DG Call: 01225 313747 Visit: www.the-curfew-dining-room.co.uk 41


Cosy winter warmers

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The Methuen Arms ‘A right winter warmer, my lovelies’

The Hunter’s Lodge Inn

It’s beginning to feel a lot like Christmas at The Methuen Arms, Corsham, with log fires crackling and a whiff of oak smoke in the air, beeswax oozing from the bar tops and Wee Willie Winkies gently glowing. Enjoy red wine mulled with West Country cider and spices, venison sausage rolls and local, intelligent, well informed and trained staff full of the joys of the season, ready to serve.

Although an undoubted gateway to some of the South West’s most revered attractions, The Hunters Lodge Inn is a destination in its own right – perfect for families or those with a healthy appetite. With a safe and secure play area for kids to enjoy, pygmy goats, miniature ponies, alpacas, children’s menus, cutlery, colouring packs and terrace for mum and dad to relax, The Hunter’s Lodge has it all and more. Don’t miss out on the famous Hunter’s carvery with unlimited trips; three joints always served with five veg and the perfect gravy.

Contorted willow, and moss covered apple branches with festive decorations add to this cosy and friendly pub. See you at The Met; bring your toothbrush – the rooms are fabulous.

2 High Street, Corsham, Wiltshire SN13 0HB Call: 01249 717060 Visit: www.themethuenarms.com

Leigh Common, Wincanton, Somerset BA9 8LD Call: 01747 840439 Visit: www.hunterslodgeinn.com

The Montague Inn Halfway to everywhere, in the middle of nowhere and snuggling down to see through the winter, the Montague Inn has a real attraction for locals and travellers alike. Set in South Somerset’s delightful countryside in the village of Shepton Montague, two foot thick walls, open fires at either end of the bar coupled with multi-award winning food; where else would you wish to see through the evening with friends? An extensive wine cellar will help you find the right one for your food or mood. Local sourcing is championed at the Monty and the five-mile Cheddar board is exactly that; five Cheddars from within five miles. Game is now very much on the menu, with locally shot pheasant and venison, so stomp the snow off your boots and come and enjoy the casserole of the week in the warm glow of the Montague Inn.

Shepton Montague, Nr Wincanton BA9 8JW Call: 01749 813 213 Visit: www.themontagueinn.co.uk

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Cosy winter warmers

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Brace & Browns Brace & Browns is perfect for those days when the chill is in the air and the nights are drawing in. Here they offer warming, delightful British tapas, so the two of you (or a group) can huddle round a table and try dishes such as Yorkshire pudding filled with a fillet of beef, roasted quail and creamed leek tartlet, or a turkey and chestnut terrine. You can warm up with homemade mulled wine all winter, and if you’re feeling brave then venture onto the heated terrace or relax on a Chesterfield sofa in a room filled by candlelight. Brace & Browns is perfect for those cosy winter moments.

43 Whiteladies Road, Bristol BS8 2LS Call: 0117 973 7800 Visit: www.braceandbrowns.tumblr.com

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Ultimate Country Retreats

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Bovey Castle Shake off the post-December blues or reward your non-stop socialising efforts over the festive season with a winter’s retreat to Bovey Castle and the sprawling Devon countryside, where the opening months of the new year are happily passed beside a roaring fireplace or wrapped in country attire ready for a walk on Dartmoor. For those less inclined towards the charms of the English countryside, cocktailmaking in the sumptuous surroundings of the Oak Bar is always an afternoon well spent, with a spectacular tea served in the striking Cathedral Room. Time to Relax at Bovey Castle includes one night’s accommodation, full English

breakfast, either a round of golf or a SUNDÃRI Express spa treatment per person, as well as dinner in the finedining Edwardian Grill restaurant. Launched this summer by Bovey Castle’s head chef, Marc Hardiman, The Beef Menu is a unique nose-to-tail dining concept in The Edwardian Grill where you will find the finest cuts of beef that Dartmoor has to offer, served alongside other cuts of beef that are often overlooked. From £185 per person.

Dartmoor National Park, North Bovey, Devon TQ13 8RE Call: 01647 445000 Visit: www.boveycastle.com

Brace of Pheasants Inn

The Malt House

Nestling in the rolling hills of West Dorset in the village of Plush is The Brace of Pheasants Inn, complete with roaring log fires, foaming ale served direct from the cask, 18 different wines by the glass and award-winning food. As would be expected from the location, game is prevalent on the menu, as is fish landed at Bridport. Spend the night in one of the sumptuous rooms followed by a hearty Dorset breakfast to complete your visit.

The Malt House and Broad Campden are at the heart of the Cotswolds. Honey-coloured limestone cottages clustered around church and pub, drystone walls and sheep grazing on the gentle hillsides – this is the quintessence of English countryside. As with the best Cotswold villages, many of Broad Campden’s pleasures are not immediately obvious: the richness of the backlands – gardens, greenswards, orchards, streams, walks and borders. This delightful bed and breakfast is a 20-minute stroll from the architecturally sublime market town of Chipping Campden, complete with its 17th-century market hall as well as restaurants, pubs and shops.

Plush, Dorset DT2 7RQ Call: 01300 348357 Visit: www.braceofpheasants.co.uk 44

Broad Campden, Chipping Campden, Glos. GL55 6UU Call: 01386 840295 Visit: www.malt-house.co.uk


Ultimate Country Retreats

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The Queens Arms The Queens Arms, Corton Denham is three miles from Sherborne and tucked into the hills forming the dramatic Somerset/Dorset border. With eight individually designed luxurious rooms, AA Rosette food and an award-winning drinks list, the Queens Arms offers a chic rural getaway for those in search of something a bit better. Much of their produce comes from the village itself and the menus are designed to reflect the best seasonally available food that this famous agricultural area has to offer. Whether you want to try the

award-winning restaurant menu, or the classic pub food and sandwiches, the Queen’s will provide wholesome, well-prepared real food. The bar is an ideal place to meet friends or read the papers while tucking into one of the famous pork pies and a pint of real ale in front of the open log fire. Each of the eight bedrooms offers an individually designed, luxurious and comfortable experience. Breakfast is an institution here with their own bacon and eggs providing a hearty start to the day.

Corton Denham, Somerset DT9 4LR Call: 01963 220317 Visit: www.thequeensarms.com email: relax@thequeensarms.com

The Langton Arms The Langton Arms is a 17th-century thatched inn occupying a peaceful spot in the centre of Tarrant Monkton next to the village church. Tarrant Monkton is a small, thatched Dorset hamlet nestling in the Tarrant Valley, surrounded by some of the most spectacular countryside in England, which has changed little since it was immortalised in the novels of Thomas Hardy. Food is served seven days a week in either the Farmers bar or the Stables restaurant with its welcoming log fire. Constantly supporting local farmers and food producers, their produce is sourced from Dorset and the West Country. Their meat is all butchered in their own butchery, while the beef from their Rawston Farm herd is matured for over 21 days. Catering for civil ceremonies and wedding receptions, functions, conferences, family parties, a friendly game of skittles or just a cosy meal for two, The Langton Arms has plenty to offer.

Tarrant Monkton, Blandford, Dorset. DT11 8RX Call: 01258 830225 Visit: www.thelangtonarms.co.uk

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> flavour christmas ales

A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West, Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real ale and traditional cider.

Christmas Ales What ‘flavour’ do you think most represents Christmas? Is it the succulent roast turkey? The sharp tang of cranberry sauce? Maybe it’s satsumas; or frosted icing on a Yule log; or honey-glazed gammon on Christmas Eve; cracked Brazil nuts; Christmas pudding aflame with a little too much brandy; chestnuts roasting on an open... Oh, you get the idea. 46


Well, as evocative as all of these things are, none puts me in mind of the Queen’s speech, the hideous new jumper, mistletoe and loosening the belt a notch as a satisfying, warming, robust Christmas ale. A good winter brew has a dark richness that infuses your entire being with warmth and goodwill to all men (and women). Spices, chocolate, ginger and berries waft their way from the glass to your nose as if beckoning you to sit by a fire and open a few presents. Brewers often discard the rigid sensibilities that constrain their beers for the rest of the year. After all, Christmas is a time for celebration, to let oneself go, to forget the rules for a week or so and just have fun. More and more pubs feature guest and seasonal real ales these days, so look out for some of these Winterval wonders at a South West hostelry near you. Dawkins Ho Ho Ho (5.2% abv) – A rum porter where the mix of malt and hops is fortified, literally, by the addition of spiced rum in the cask. It’s fruity, but the rum and spices are like a hug from your favourite auntie. I defy you not to want to curl up contentedly on the sofa after a couple of these, but best wait ‘til you get home. Dawkins Chocadee (4.9%) and Orange Chocadee (4.9%) – These are two traditional milk stouts, but with a decadent amount of chocolate thrown in. As rich and creamy as that Boxing Day dessert you just know you shouldn’t have, but can’t resist. The orange version is only available in Dawkins own pubs, but worth the effort to find.

Wickwar Christmas Cracker (4.2%) – Despite the name of this Gloucestershire brew, it actually reminds me of the wooden bowl from when I was growing up which, every Christmas, was suddenly full of every type of nut imaginable. For this mid-brown ale has a real nutty foundation to it, albeit with a fruitier finish. A Christmas beer that won’t leave you feeling ‘jaded’ on Boxing Day morning. Cheddar Ale Festive Totty (4.2%) – Another dark porterstyle ale, this one from Somerset. It’s actually based on Totty Pot, which is available throughout the winter, but this has been infused with ruby port, giving you that real sense of something you only have once a year, but look forward to all the more because of it. There is a chocolatey richness that defies its relatively low alcohol content. Abbey Ales Twelfth Night (5%) – OK, so Twelfth Night is technically the end of Christmas, but that’s not a nit worth picking. This is a ruby winter ale which, more than many Christmas beers, allows the malt to remain very prominent, and consequently has a wonderfully fulsome flavour to it. The sort of ale that tastes so good you find yourself making an involuntary lip-smacking sound as you sit watching the traditional Christmas drizzle through the window of the pub.

Other Christmas ales to seek out

Bath Ales Festivity (5%) – An established Christmas/ Winter favourite. This is a very traditional porter designed to thaw you out after that chilly walk to the pub. There’s vanilla in there, and definitely coffee, both complementing roasted malt to give a full and rounded, moreish flavour.

The Bristol Beer Factory is, as in previous years, offering a collection of 12 Stouts of Christmas. These are brewed especially to go in cases of twelve for Christmas, and always include some unusual stout recipes. This year a crème brûlée stout is causing particular excitement.

St Austell Tribute Extra (5.2%) – A Christmassy variation on a very popular Cornish brew. Tribute Extra provides something a little different for the holidays. Not as dark as traditional Christmas beers, this is more of an amber ale. More New berry Fruits than Yule log. There is a tangy citrus flavour that never becomes too sweet.

Cotswold Spring Vixen (4.8%) – An autumn and winter brew – with a toffee-apple flavour followed by a winter-spice aftertaste. Otter Claus (5%) – A mix of Fuggles and Challenger hops gives this ruby Devonshire ale a delicate balance, with a hint of dark rather than milk chocolate in the taste.

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MAiTreyA SoCiAl’S… Tamari-glazed Parsnip & Smoked Applewood Cheddar Tarte Tatin SERVES 6 IngredIents

Method:

• 5 medium parsnips

Peel the parsnips and chop them first in half widthways then into quarters lengthways and remove the woody centre. Boil the parsnip pieces for 4 minutes until just softening, then drain in a colander and allow to steam a little.

• 2 medium red onions • 200g smoked Applewood cheddar • 400g all butter puff pastry (preferably homemade) • 3 tablespoons tamari • 3 tablespoons maple syrup • 75g toasted pumpkin seeds

Visit: www.maitreyasocial.co.uk Follow on Twitter: @maitreyasocial Facebook: /matreyasocial 48

Coat the parsnips in a little rapeseed oil, the maple syrup, tamari and a little salt and pepper. Roast in the oven at 200°C for around 20 mins turning regularly until golden and caramelized. Peel the red onions and slice into half moon shapes as finely as possible. Warm a heavy bottom pan or skillet and cook the onion over a low heat with a little rapeseed oil and a pinch of salt for 30 mins turning regularly until well caramelized. Roll the pastry out to 3mm thick and cut into 5” rounds.

Line 6 individual 5” blini pans with baking parchment. Sprinkle a few pumpkin seeds on to the parchment then place a 3mm thick slice of the cheese over that. Next cover the cheese with the roasted parsnip and top with a tablespoon of the caramelized red onion. Cover each of these with a round of puff pastry and bake in the oven at 200°C for 12 mins until the pastry is golden and risen. Allow the tarts to stand for a couple of minutes before flipping over the pans to turn them out. Serve immediately with your Christmas dinner. Available on the Maitreya Social Festive Menu throughout December.


> flavour stanton house hotel

Stanton House Hotel offers a superb selection of fresh sashimi and sushi prepared by Japanese chefs in both the Rosemary Restaurant and the Yakiniku @ Mt Fuji Restaurant.

Stanton House Hotel

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ashimi is thinly sliced, raw seafood, beautifully arranged and served on top of shredded daikon (white radish) and shiso leaves. The sashimi pieces are dipped into a dish of soya sauce and wasabi before being eaten. The daikon and shiso can also be dipped in soya sauce and eaten; both have a fresh, minty taste. Depending on the kind of sashimi, wasabi or ground ginger may accompany the dish and be added to the sashimi as a condiment. It’s an important element in Japanese cuisine, where it is often served at the beginning of a meal as a palate cleanser and appetiser. Wasabi is Japanese horseradish, a root vegetable that is most famous in the form of a green paste used as a condiment for sashimi and sushi. It has a strong, hot flavour that dissipates within a few seconds and leaves no burning aftertaste in the mouth.

Located within the hotel, you will find that the Jasmine shop has all of the essential ingredients of Japanese cooking, from miso, Japanese noodles and pickled ginger to green teas, rice crackers and seaweeds, not forgetting wasabi, sushi ingredients and panko breadcrumbs... On the first Sunday of every month they sell a selection of quality tuna, sea bass and salmon. They also have Japanese sweets, snacks and a wide selection of drinks. You can buy sushi kits and a wide selection of authentic sushi ingredients from the Japanese kitchen. A wide range of sake, shochu, Japanese beer and soft drinks are also available. The shop is open on Thursday between 3pm and 9pm, and Sunday from 12pm to 6.30pm.

Why not make your own sushi? IngRedIentS • Japanese rice • Sushi vinegar • Wasabi • Gari (pickled ginger) • Soya sauce • Fresh fish

Stanton House Hotel The Avenue, Stanton Fitzwarren, Swindon SN6 7SD call: 0843 507 1388 Visit: www.stantonhouse.co.uk

MetHod Cook rice as per packet instructions. Add vinegar. Sushi rice should be slightly warm. Slice fresh fish into rectangles about 5cm by 4cm (keep sliced fish the same way up). First dip your hands into a bowl of water and clap off excess water. Place a strip of fish in your left palm. Smear a pinch of wasabi on to the fish. In your right hand pick up a ball of rice and place on to the fish. Flip the nigiri over. Lightly squeeze with two fingers on the top. Turn top to tail and lightly squeeze again with two fingers on top. Turn top to tail and lightly squeeze the sides. The nigiri is now complete. When serving make sure that you display in pairs; this represents ‘peace’. Serve with soya sauce and gari. 49


> flavour tortworth court

Laura Roberts is whisked back in time for an overnight stay filled with great food and comfort, in a very impressive setting...

Tortworth Court Four Pillars Hotels S

ituated in Wooton-under-Edge, the perfect distance between the bright lights of Bristol and the calm of the Cotswolds, Tortworth Court is the ideal place to enjoy the sights of both the city and countryside. As we drove down the sweeping driveway and caught our first glimpse, I felt like I’d been transported to the set of Downton Abbey (that or I’d been spending too much time watching Sunday evening television again). With a background rich in history dating back to the 13th century, the magnificent building immediately hints at a stay full of great things to follow. On arrival, we were greeted by the grand reception area. With its modern highbacked sofas and high ceilings, it perfectly encompassed traditional charm with a contemporary twist. We decided upon a late sitting for dinner, allowing us plenty of time to relax and enjoy our surroundings. First up was a quick dip in the Peels Leisure Club pool, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi; tranquil and light, it was the perfect way to unwind after a busy week. The leisure club also offers a well-equipped gymnasium and a spa offering a range of reasonably priced, facial, massage and beauty treatments. The luxury continued upon entering our bedroom. Large and decorated in keeping with the periodic nature of the hotel, with a lounge area and large en suite bathroom, the complimentary wine and mineral water were also very well received added extras. We headed down to the Atrium Bistro Bar for a pre-dinner drink, the 60 foot high glass roof creating a relaxed atmosphere, perfect for a spot of people watching and working up an appetite.

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The Atrium Bar and Brunels Bar offer small meals and snacks if you’re looking for lunch or something a little lighter. The main dining area, Moreton’s Restaurant, is set in what originally was the court’s library. The oak panelling, large fireplace, ornate ceilings and bookshelves really do make you feel like you have been transported back in time. At three courses for just £24.95, an extensive menu of choice, and a reasonably priced wine list, dining at Tortworth Court is great value for money. I opted for a starter of goat’s cheese and beetroot salad, the cheese arriving hot, oozing and breadcrumbed on a bed of watercress studded with beetroot jewels. My partner opted for trio of salmon; morsels of marinated, poached and smoked salmon topped with a dill yoghurt dressing. When it came to the main event, I can’t resist a steak and whilst I thought the £7.95 supplement was quite pricey, the juicy slab of sirloin didn’t disappoint. Served with fat, rustic chips, grilled mushroom and tomato, it was a great slap-up steak dinner. Mark opted for breast of pigeon, tender and delicate and served with a red wine jus, root veg, mushrooms and mash. We were both tempted by the dark chocolate terrine and were relieved to find out we had managed to snag the last two. Rich and velvety, the raspberry coulis added a sharp sweetness to the dessert. The following cold, yet perfectly clear autumnal morning after a buffetstyle, satisfying breakfast including an array of pastries, fruit, cereals, bacon, sausage and eggs, we decided to explore the surroundings of Tortworth

Court. Wandering around the hotel we found The Orangery, a beautiful prolific conservatory which would be an ideal setting for a wedding breakfast. There’s a well-known saying that ‘you should save the best till last’; one which is so true of my stay at Tortworth Court. Set in 30 acres of flawless parkland, as we rounded the corner of the hotel the beautiful russet explosion of colour that emblazoned the grounds’ very own arboretum really does take your breath away. Featuring 300 rare trees, if you’re a keen nature goer then each tree is numbered and you can pick up a booklet from reception to guide you through the arboretum. On top of all this the hotel also overlooks a picturesque lake, in fact I’d be hard pushed to find a hotel in a more spectacular setting. As my boyfriend and I enjoyed the bright and crisp morning overlooking the grounds, we commented how perfect Tortworth Court would be for an autumnal wedding. Lo and behold as we made our way back to check out, we witnessed a beautiful bride and wedding party outside the hotel. As we imagined, the scene was picture perfect. If you’re looking for the whole package, then head on over to Tortworth Court. With the perfect blend of old-style grandeur and four-star hotel luxuries, I promise you won’t be disappointed.

Tortworth Court Wotton-under-Edge, South Glos GL12 8HH call 01454 263000 Visit www.tortworth-court-hotel.four-pillars.co.uk


At three courses for just ÂŁ24.95, an extensive menu of choice, and a reasonably priced wine list, dining at Tortworth Court is great value for money


flavour’s latest columnist Jack Stein brings us the best from the sea...

Jack Stein was born in Cornwall and is the middle son of three boys to celebrated chef Rick Stein. After several years learning the trade, Jack returned to The Seafood Restaurant in Padstow as sous chef before moving on to a tournant role across the whole company. He is currently the head of development for the company, leading the installation and introduction of a development kitchen for the business, where new recipes and ingredients will be tested.

Sea bass, salsify and red wine vinaigrette Serves 2 Sea bass is such a versatile fish and this dish celebrates autumn in both flavour and colour. Our development kitchen started work on this dish as a replacement for one of The Seafood Restaurant’s signature dishes, sea bass with vanilla, which is more summery in look and taste. Salsify is a great autumnal ingredient; sometimes called an oyster plant this root has a lovely mineral saltiness that is a perfect foil for the sweet flesh of the sea bass. The restaurant version of this dish is more complex involving stocks and reductions so for

this recipe I have simplified the dish and focused on the more important elements. The red wine vinaigrette is extremely versatile and can be used with many different ingredients including monkfish, chicken and pork. I first encountered it while in Paris working at a restaurant called La Regalade, where it was called vinaigrette d’viande and had a veal stock to thicken it. Veal stock is not something I would want to include in this recipe as it usually requires at least 10 hours of cooking! Instead this version is easier and quick to make.

Follow Jack on Twitter @JackStein Image ©David Griffen

Recipe ©Jack Stein


> flavour out of the ocean

Ingredients

Method

• 2 x 150g sea bass fillet

1 To start, pat the skin of the sea bass with kitchen roll to remove any excess moisture from it. This helps to colour this fish and prevents it sticking in the pan.

• 150g salsify root • 25g shallots • 50ml red wine • 50ml red wine vinegar • 50ml olive oil • Sea salt • 1 tsp vegetable oil • 20g unsalted butter • Sprig of thyme • 1 tbsp finely chopped chives

2 Peel the salsify and place in a saucepan of salted water with some lemon juice to prevent discolouration and cook on a medium heat for 45 minutes until tender, then drain and set aside. 3 To make the red wine vinaigrette, finely dice the shallots and add to a saucepan with the thyme and red wine. Cook until the shallots have absorbed the wine and then add the red wine vinegar and reduce by half. Slowly add the olive oil whisking to emulsify and season with sea salt and set aside. 4 Heat the vegetable oil in a non-stick pan and cook the sea bass skin side down on a low-medium heat. When the flesh side is almost completely white, flip the fillets over and quickly cook on the flesh side for 15–20 seconds. Remove the fish from the pan and rest. 5 Meanwhile, heat a little oil in the pan that the fish was cooked in, cut the salsify into pieces and sauté, season and add the butter to colour. 6 Serve the sea bass and salsify together and spoon the vinaigrette around the plate, finishing the dish off with some finely chopped chives. 53


Serving authentic Sardinian cuisine

We are happy to announce that we’ll be Open New Year’s Eve with live Italian music, an exciting 4-course menu and our famous ‘celebrate ‘til late spirit’. A Christmas menu is also available. Book now for your Christmas party.

Aió Restaurant, 7 Edgar Buildings, George Street, Bath BA1 2EE 01225 443900 www.aiorestaurant.co.uk

Teach Me

Sugarcraft Teach Me Sugarcraft run courses on making sprays of sugar flowers, basic cake icing, Individual iced all over cakesand cup cake decorating sessions. The evening courses on making the flower sprays are held at ‘A Fair Shot’ coffee shop, Sandy Park Road, Brislington on a Wednesday or Thursday evening from 7pm - 9pm. Each course runs for 6 weeks and costs £60 plus materials.

Visit the website for all of next year’s courses.

• The Peruvian Lily course starts in January, while the Easter course will be on Daffodils and Bluebells. • The Orchid and Bamboo Course is being run at Backwell School (7pm - 9pm) on a Tuesday evening starting in January. • The Gerbera spray is held at The Millennium hall in Chew Magna on a Wednesday morning from 10.30am - 12.30pm.

www.teachmesugarcraft.co.uk Phone Sue on 07884478576 Email teachmesugarcraft@hotmail.co.uk


Champagne Taittinger

> flavour champagne taittinger

An Exceptional House… Christmas is coming and the geese are getting fat! It’s time to catch up with friends and treat ourselves; and what better way than with a glass of Champagne? One of our favourite houses is Champagne Taittinger.

Where to catch up with friends and enjoy a glass or bottle of Champagne Taittinger?

The Taittinger family has been rooted in Champagne since 1931. Headed-up by Pierre Emmanuel Taittinger, he and his son Clovis and daughter Vitalie all take an active role in the day-to-day running of the family Champagne house. As a family business, it would not be out of the ordinary for visitors to bump into Pierre-Emmanuel, Vitalie or Clovis, all of whom would be happy to stop and chat about their family wines.

Creole Brasserie, Whiteladies Road – www.creolebrasserie.co.uk

Key to the Taittingers' success is the fact that the family owns half of the vineyards that produce the fruit for their fine wines. The remaining grapes come from select growers with whom the family has a long association. This gives Taittinger control of quality and consistency from vine to bottle. Champagne Taittinger are unusual in taking over three years to produce a bottle of their delectable NV. Why does this matter? It gives more complexity to the wine as it is aged on lees longer, while the bubbles also have the extra time to decrease in size and become a mousse in your mouth that tickles your taste buds, rather than a mouthful of bouncing Christmas baubles. For further information on Champagne Taittinger go to www.taittinger.com

The Albion, Clifton Village – www.thealbionclifton.co.uk Aqua, Welsh Back and Whiteladies Road, Bristol, Walcott Street, Bath – www.aqua-restaurant.com Bath Priory, Bath – www.thebathpriory.co.uk Cowley Manor, Cowley – www. cowleymanor.com Graze, Queen Square, Bristol, Circencester, Brunel Square, Bath – www.bathales.com/our-pubs

Or contact UK sole agents Hatch Mansfield: 01344 871800 info@hatch.co.uk

Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years’ experience in the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School. 55


> flavour great western wine

A Taste of Excellence

Great Western Wine’s annual showcase at the Assembly Rooms BY AnGelA MOunt

Still basking in the glow of their recent win as the International Wine Challenge 2012 ‘South West Merchant of the Year’, Great Western Wine greeted over 400 guests and visitors to their Annual Portfolio tasting in late October. The much-loved GWW Portfolio tasting is now firmly established on the social calendar for many Bath and Bristolbased wine lovers, and showcases over 100 wines, many of them award winners from some of the world’s top wineries. The occasion is further enhanced by the serene and majestic setting of the famous Assembly Rooms, a triumph of 18th-century architecture by John Wood the Younger, which were described as ‘the most noble and elegant of any assembly rooms in the country’ by Georgian society. Amid the splendour of the Ballroom, with its glittering chandeliers and the ornate décor of the octagon, the wines sparkled like jewels, beckoning today’s modern society to explore further. 100 wines is a huge selection for visitors to tackle, but is only about an eighth of the entire cornucopia that is the Great Western Wine list. Fortunately, the team had laid out the event by themed tables, either in terms of styles of wine or by some of their top producers; in addition Decanter Magazine presented some of the wines that they had awarded medals to in 2012. There was also a table dedicated to ‘Stars of Italy’– probably their greatest forte. Where to start? The overall quality of the wines was very high, with some shining stars scattered across almost every table. There was a real buzz in the air, as guests wandered from a table showcasing ‘Elegant, soft, vibrant reds’, to one featuring the wines of one of Great Western’s newest signings, the exciting, young New Zealand winery, Yealands, before savouring the sumptuous delights of the quite extraordinary sparkling and ice wines from Canadian Peller Estate.

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With Christmas rapidly approaching, here are our

top 10 seasonal favourites: Prosecco Brut Quartese, Ruggeri NV £13.95 A worthy winner of a Decanter Magazine Silver Medal, this delightful Prosecco is a true example of what good Prosecco is all about. Lively, zesty and fresh, with a delightful sprinkle of bubbles, a citrussy, appley character and a delicate, creamy finish.

Jacquart Brut Mosaique NV £22.50 A blend from two of Champagne’s top sites, this is a superbly stylish, creamy, and full flavoured Champagne, full of creamy, biscuity, and baked apple character, with a fine mousse, elegantly rounded flavours and a deliciously soft and long-lasting finish.

Ailala Treixadura 2011, Spain £9.95 A perennial favourite; from Galicia, in north-west Spain, better known for Albarino, this is a lesser-known, but absolute star; it has an incredible combination of ripe, aromatic, apricot and melon character, blended with a zesty, almost sea-salty, citrus tang. Crisp and refreshing, fantastic complexity and style at a bargain price.

Yealands Black Label GrunerVeltliner 2011, New Zealand £11.95 Racy, stylish and with an incredibly intense character, bursting with a mix of honeysuckle, white peach and freshly squeezed lime juice. Intriguing, aromatic and very elegant, with a crisp, lingering finish, this is a great wine to match with rich Christmas food.

Vina Leyda Chardonnay Lot 5 2010, Chile £15.95 A gloriously smooth, silky, award-winning Chardonnay, which impresses with its purity of flavour, gentle tropical fruit character and tangy, citrussy flavour. A top white wine for turkey or goose.

Chateau du Vieux Parc, Cuvee Tradition 2011, Languedoc, France £8.95 This has to be the stand out, valuefor-money wine of the night; it wowed with its rich, dense, forest fruit and bramble flavours; full of Christmas spice, warmth and rich, warming notes, it is an absolute festive star!

Petite Sirah, Bogle Winery 2010, California £12.95 So often derided for cheap, commercial blends, California delivers some class acts, and this is one of them! Full bodied, but fruity, this wine is packed with rich, blackberry and spice flavours, a hint of mocha and a velvety finish. A unique balance of power and softness.

Heartland Shiraz 2009, Australia £13.50 The ultimate in winter warming reds, this gloriously rich, yet elegant South Australian Shiraz combines elegance and power – intense, black fruit, spice, black pepper and licorice flavours mingle with a delightful softness and freshness.

Carrick Unravelled Pinot Noir 2010, New Zealand £14.50 An absolute classic for the festive season, this is simply sumptuous, and bursting with rich, silky soft, violet scented, forest fruit flavours; it’s velvety, seductive and would be a welcome treat in anyone’s Christmas stocking!

Peller Vidal Icewine 2010, Canada (37.5cl) £28.00 If you permit yourself one total vinous indulgence, make it this one. Produced from frozen grapes, picked at -10°C in December, each liquid drop, goes to producing this unique and rare wine from the Niagara region; luscious honey, caramel sweetness combined with an incredible citrus tang – the ultimate dessert wine.

It would be easy to add in at least a further 10 wines, from the great value Elki Sangiovese to the sumptuous heights of Poliziano’s Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The event glittered as brightly as the chandeliers, and with the added incentive of further case discounts on many wines throughout November and December, many satisfied visitors left having already sorted out their Christmas wine selection!

xx


> flavour megan owen

‘Tis the season

to get baking

By Megan Owen

With Halloween costumes put away, and sparklers fizzled out for another year, attention now turns to the highly anticipated Christmas season, and the foodie marvels it has to offer.

tied with ribbon), or to fill up some space on your Christmas tree, Christmas biscuits in particular are quick simple, and therapeutic to make, and taste absolutely delicious too!

Christmas does not have to be all about turkey and sprouts however, with the festive period providing the perfect excuse for a good old baking session!

So don the Christmas apron and let the smell of Christmas spices fill your house as you rustle up a number of indulgent and eyecatching treats for family and friends to enjoy – the more sparkle the better!

Ideal to offer as gifts (arranged and wrapped in festive cellophane, Ingredients: 200g self-raising flour 100g butter 100g caster sugar 1 teaspoon of spice (you could use cinnamon, ginger or mixed spice, or try a combination) 1 egg Decorations

Christmas Spice Biscuits Pre-heat the oven to 180°C/gas mark 4. Rub the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the sugar and spice and mix through. Beat the egg in a small jug, and gradually add to the mixture until it comes together to form a dough. Knead the dough gently until it is smooth, and then turn it onto a lightly floured work surface. Roll out the dough so that it is 3-4mm thick, and use Christmas-themed cutters to create festiveshaped biscuits. Place the biscuits on a baking tray lined with baking parchment, making sure that they are not

58

too close together. If making tree decorations, make a small hole near the edge of each biscuit using a chopstick, or the end of a teaspoon. Ribbon can be threaded through the hole to hang the biscuits once they are cooked! Place the biscuits in the oven, and bake for 10-12 minutes until golden brown. When cooked, remove the biscuits from the oven and allow to cool for two minutes, before transferring them to a wire cooling rack. When cool, the biscuits are ready for decorating! I tend to use a thick icing (made from icing sugar and water), with edible sparkly bits sprinkled on top.


> flavour luxory spa guide

Luxury

Spa

Guide Sometimes, and just for no real reason at all, you should just spoil yourself. This could manifest itself in a duvet day, a splurge at the shops or night on the town but, if you are feeling particularly decadent, why not grab your swimming gear and a good book and go pamper yourself with a few hours at a spa near you? We’ve got a few absolute belters for you to check out and then check into‌

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> flavour luxory spa guide

Bovey Castle Named as the SUNDÃRI flagship for the UK, The Spa at Bovey Castle evokes the peace and tranquillity of the surrounding countryside, while the ancient Ayurvedic healing sciences of SUNDÃRI envelop mind and body effortlessly, with the core philosophy that each person is unique and should be treated individually. The Spa at Bovey Castle offers SUNDÃRI, Ytsara and health and beauty treatments across its five treatment rooms, with the spa experience beginning in the relaxation room with panoramic views over the moorland and hotel estate. Bovey Castle’s spa therapists hold a wealth of knowledge and advice, promoting a respect and understanding of the body that is both rare and valuable.

Housed in the Orangery, the hotel’s Art Deco inspired swimming pool overlooks the sun terrace and River Bovey, offering stunning views of miles of moorland. Bovey Castle’s spa facilities also include a Jacuzzi, sauna, steam room and a full range of Precor, cardiovascular and strength equipment in the hotel gym. Treatment of the Month at the spa is open to both residents and nonresidents. For December, receive a complimentary file or polish on nails or toes after a luxury manicure or pedicure. The Spa at Bovey Castle offers facials, body and beauty treatments, SUNDÃRI for men, prenatal and postnatal treatments, youth treatments (12–15-year-olds and 16 plus) and rituals. Residential, spa day and sunset SUNDÃRI experiences are available, which include access to the hotel’s spa facilities and either lunch or dinner in the Castle Bistro.

Bovey Castle Dartmoor National Park, North Bovey, Devon TQ13 8RE Call: 01647 445000 Visit: www.boveycastle.com


> flavour luxory spa guide

Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa This November and December, admire the frosty Wiltshire landscape from the warm cocooning haven of The Spa at Lucknam Park.

miles east of Bath. The spa’s contemporary design, wood, marble and glass reflect the stunning setting of Lucknam Park Hotel.

Whether for an escape from Christmas shopping, an early Christmas treat, or a welcome alternative to a Christmas party, the Spa Day packages at Lucknam Park are the perfect antidote to the upcoming manic months.

Still looking for the perfect gift? Browse through the extensive selection of luxury gift idea and experiences, from Spa Days, to Afternoon Tea or even a gift voucher for the new Cookery School, with a selection of 24 courses to choose from, ranging from Christmas Baking to MichelinStar Cooking at Home.

Spa Day Experiences are available Monday to Friday and include: Welcome coffee and pastry, 60-minute spa treatment, use of all spa facilities, two-course lunch with a glass of wine in the fabulous Brasserie and use of robe and slippers. Spa Days from £135. Lucknam Park Hotel and Spa is one of the UK’s leading country house hotels located in a 500-acre estate just six

Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa Colerne, Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 8AZ Call: 01225 740570 Visit: www.lucknampark.co.uk

Aquarias Spa at Whatley Manor Aquarias Spa at Whatley Manor has offers a Winter Day Spa that gives you time to relax your mind and nurture your body in tranquil surroundings. Experience a 45-minute ‘La Prairie Express facial’ (£100) designed to firm, nourish and renew your skin. Cranial pressure point massage improves circulation leaving you and your skin even more radiant. This includes full use of the spa and gym facilities. Luxury robe, towels and slippers are provided for your comfort. A light lunch and refreshment served in the spa lounge is also included.

The ‘Winter Day Spa and La Prairie Facial’ is available Monday to Thursday from December 1 until January 31 (excluding December 24 to January 1 inclusive).

Aquarias Spa at Whatley Manor Easton Grey, Malmesbury, Wiltshire SN16 0RB Call: 01666 827 070 Visit: www.whatleymanor.com 61


The Garden Spa at Bath Priory The Bath Priory’s splendid Garden Spa is befitting of a luxury country house. The indoor and outdoor heated pools are beautiful and intimate; a poolside sauna, elliptical steam pod and shower complete the picture. As the name suggests, French doors open directly onto the immaculate gardens and allow the sunlight to flood in and wash over this dreamy space. The light and airy Fitness Suite, which overlooks the gardens, is well-equipped with the full range of cardiovascular machines and free

weights, inviting you to burn off a few calories after your over-indulgent, but oh so scrumptious afternoon tea! The four treatment suites provide a tranquil and calm environment in which you can totally relax. The dual treatment suite, complete with a walk-in double shower, is perfect for couples or friends. For a trusted, classic treatment, opt for Elemis to boost your natural beauty. For something a little different, try the LI’TYA treatments – a range of natural skin care products based on ancient Aboriginal culture.

The Garden Spa at Bath Priory The Bath Priory, Weston Rd, Bath BA1 2XT Call: 01225 331922 Visit: www.thebathpriory.co.uk

The Royal Crescent Hotel and Bath House Spa Focusing on the natural elements of earth, air, fire and water, The Bath House at The Royal Crescent Hotel embraces both ancient and modernday spa culture. The contemporary style of The Bath House was created from a converted coach house with stables that open onto the beautiful gardens. Enjoy the wonderful relaxation pool heated to 35°C, the sauna and steam Karahafus as well as a fully equipped gymnasium. Treatments range from soothing massages to full aromatherapy facials, and from fruit enzyme wraps to holistic foot and nail treatments. Half-and full-day retreats are available, with a large range of treatment combinations and a delicious two-course lunch including refreshments. 62

Throughout January the hotel is offering a Lemon Detox Day Retreat for only £139 per person, which includes consultation and herbal tea on arrival, several lemon detox drinks throughout the day and a one-hour Bootcamp Treatment or Monticelli Warm Mud Cocoon. As well as this, clients will receive a 30-minute facial, a delicious two-course lunch and lemon syrup to take away. Vouchers are also available for friends and family. Relax your body and mind at The Bath House Spa. The Royal Crescent Hotel and Bath House Spa 16 Royal Crescent, Bath BA1 2LS Call: 01225 823333 Visit: www.royalcrescent.co.uk


The Royal Crescent Hotel and the

Bath House Spa NEW YEAR CELEBRATION

fINE DININg IN ThE DOWER hOusE REsTAuRANT

Still undecided about your New Year Celebration? Why not join us for our magical House Party! Champagne and Canapé Reception. Five Course Black Tie Dinner accompanied by fine wines from our renowned cellar. Music and Dancing. A champagne toast to welcome in the New Year.

The Dower House is tucked away in the gardens of the hotel and its tranquil space, luxurious surroundings and excellent menus are all truly tantalizing. We would love you to enjoy some time with us and would like to offer you: 3 courses for the price of 2 at Lunch for just £23 Dinner 2 courses for just £52.50……. Or £63.50 for 3 courses Mon – Thurs from November till February

£225 per person

AN AfTERNOON TEA ExpERIENCE

ThE spA AT ThE ROYAL CREsCENT hOTEL

Afternoon Tea taken in the stunning gardens or one of the cosy lounges of The Royal Crescent Hotel is a truly unforgettable treat for family or friends. Dainty sandwiches with delicious fillings, an array of home-made sweet pastries, cheesecake and slices of cake as well as the infamous home-made Bath Buns and a choice of 11 types of tea make this a remarkable indulgence!

To escape, to indulge, to relax. Set within the beautiful Georgian buildings that make up the Royal Crescent Hotel this little known Gem in the heart of the city is truly a secret to be shared. With an extensive range of therapies using world renowned product ranges we are able to soothe mind, body and spirit.

£25 per person

The Royal Crescent Hotel 16 Royal Crescent Bath BA1 2LS 01225 823333

www.royalcrescent.co.uk



askachef:

Chris Staines Chris Staines, head chef at The Allium Brasserie, is one of the most acclaimed chefs working in the UK and is highly regarded in the industry. He was head chef at Foliage, Mandarin Oriental, where he held a Michelin star for seven years and worked with Marco Pierre White at the three Michelin-starred The Oak Room. Chris’ philosophy is to produce simple food with the freshest possible ingredients, in a menu that combines variety and style.

Q

I have two children and insist that we all eat healthily, however, my husband is having problems finding a job after his company folded. How can I ensure that the family eat good, fresh food but on a shoestring budget? Susan Kimble, Cirencester This is a concern for hundreds of thousands of families across the country and indeed even the largest of food providers is feeling the pinch of the recession at the moment! The good news… healthy food is cheaper, FACT! If you think about it, buying vegetables, fruit, meat and fish in its raw, unprepared state means that you are only paying the grower and the seller, whereas with pre-prepared

Q

Is it better to use the fresh pasta you can buy in the supermarket or the dried ones in the packet, what is the benefit of the ‘fresh’ one? Sonia Moores, Bath I guess it’s really a matter of preference, I personally prefer the fresh option, but I do keep a couple of packets of dried pasta in the cupboard for spur of the moment meals. The main difference is that the fresh pasta will contain a lot more egg yolk and have a richer, fuller flavour and a softer texture than the dried pasta. There are times however when the dried pasta is the better option, usually for more hearty dishes which have a much longer cooking time. In these instances the fresh pasta would turn to mush long before the dish was ready.

food and ready meals you are also paying the manufacturer. The dishes themselves may seem cheaper but your fresh produce will go a lot further. There are also certain types of produce which don’t cost the earth but go a long way; secondary cuts of meat such as pork belly, beef shin, lamb neck etc are cheaper than your fillet steak but just as tasty (if not more so) and you get a lot more bang for your buck! Finally use your freezer, if you see a bargain in the supermarket buy a load and make a soup/stew and freeze it; it will still be fresh, healthy and delicious when you come to take it out of the freezer later but you will have made a big saving.

Q

Why do most meat recipes call for you to ‘seal the meat’ before cooking? Peter Harkness, Frome For many years it was believed (even by professional chefs) that ‘sealing’ the meat was a way of stopping it drying out by creating a seal that stopped the meat juices from escaping. This has now been proven a fallacy by an esteemed scientist called Harold Mcgee, who conducted thousands of experiments disproving this ‘fact’. The only reason to seal meat really is to get the lovely roasted meat flavour that comes from frying it.

Q

You always hear that should you should only cook with olive oil. Is that true? What’s the difference between extra virgin olive oil and just olive oil? And is there an advantage either way? Jonathon Small, Crewkerne There are several conflicting theories about the benefits or otherwise of cooking with olive oil versus other seed/vegetable oils, however it is generally accepted that an oil used for frying meat and fish for example should have a high ‘smoke point’; this is the point at which the oil starts to denature and burn. Aside from its obvious taste advantages olive oil has one of the highest smoke points which means that it will retain all of its desirable qualities even when used for frying. Extra virgin olive oil is obtained purely using ‘virgin’ ie raw olives and a mechanical method of obtaining the oil (namely squidging the olives until they give up their oil). This produces a rich olive oil with an acidity of no more than 0.8 per cent. Certain other olive oils such as ‘refined’ olive oil or ‘pomace’ olive oil use heat or chemicals (usually hexane) to separate the oil from the olive protein. These types of oil can contain as much as 20 per cent acidity. In the professional kitchen we use a virgin olive oil for frying and extra virgin oil for dressings and vinaigrettes.

Abbey Hotel, North Parade, Bath BA1 1LF – 01225 461603 – www.abbeyhotelbath.co.uk 65


Cheltenham Christmas Market Enjoy all the fun of Christmas at The Promenade, Cheltenham, with the annual Christmas Market.

Christmas markets in the UK, with a huge number of designed wooden chalets selling a wide range of festive crafts and gifts situated in a perfect setting. www.cheltenhamchristmasmarket.co.uk

Now in its 10th year, 2012 offers an excellent opportunity for those with an eye for quality to experience one of the best

Maison Chaplais Still a largely undiscovered gem slightly off the beaten track in Tivoli, is Maison Chaplais, an extraordinary food and wine emporium, easily identifiable by a baker smiling down from the balcony. Inside you will find delicious and interesting foods rarely available outside the food halls of London. Upstairs, however, is yet another treat; an ‘away from it all’ seating area where brunch and lunch is served on or with Maison Chaplais homemade breads. 01242 570222 www.maisonchaplais.com

Cheltenham Christmas Markets

Maison Chaplais

Spotlight on Cheltenham Indulge yourselves in the delights of this fabulous Georgian town... Monty’s Brasserie Monty’s Brasserie is one of Cheltenham’s most popular restaurants, renowned for its consistently good, award-winning food and great service. Located just two minutes’ walk from the town centre, it’s the perfect place to stop while out shopping. Monty’s offers a great value two-and three-course menu (£12.50 or £15) for lunch and early supper, which changes every couple of weeks. Add a glass of wine for just £2.50.

Monty’s Brasserie

01242 227678 www.montysbraz.co.uk

Spice Lodge Spice Lodge is Cheltenham’s awardwinning Pan-Asian restaurant, offering the very finest combination of Thai and Indian Cuisine. The restaurant’s highly acclaimed chefs and attentive staff coupled with the beautiful regency building ensure diners receive a unique gastronomic experience. The restaurant has a number of party rooms, uniquely themed in an Indian/Thai décor, which can hold up to 70 people – an ideal setting for any event. 01242 226300 www.spicelodge.com 66

WIN!

Courtesy of Monty’s, you could experience their much talked about food and buzzy atmosphere by winning our competition. The prize is a fabulous three-course lunch for two from the full Brasserie menu, plus a complimentary glass of wine. The prize can be taken at any lunchtime Monday to Saturday, from 12 noon. Email competitions@flavourmagazine.com with Monty’s in the subject header and your full contact details in the email body. Good luck!

Thirty Two Stylish Boutique Hotel in the heart of Cheltenham Thirty Two

Overlooking Imperial Gardens in a landmark listed Regency terrace, Thirty Two provides a quiet and exclusive haven for the most discerning traveller. The Five-star guest accommodation comes with private parking and is within two minutes’ walk of Cheltenham’s best shops, hotels, restaurants and bars. 01242 771110 www.thirtytwoltd.com

Spice Lodge


> flavour > flavour goodman’s goodfellows geese

Goodfellows Award-winning chef-patron Adam Fellows has provided flavour with one of his house specialties for us to get our chops around…

Seared tuna carpaccio with Brixham crab and avocado SeRVeS 4 InGredIents • 1 roll of tuna (mid cut loin – sashimi grade) 200g • 1 20g hand-picked Brixham crab • 1 tbsp crème fraiche • 1 tbsp chopped coriander • 1 tbsp chopped chives and parsley • 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard • 1 avocado • 1 lemon • Olive oil

Method Take the roll of tuna and colour in a hot frying pan on all sides, leave to cool. Spread a little wholegrain mustard around the outside and then roll in the mixed chopped herbs. Wrap in clingfilm. Peel the avocado and remove the stone. Liquidize in a blender with a little lemon juice and seasoning. Mix the Brixham crab with a little crème fraiche, lemon and coriander. Season to taste. To serve, cut the tuna into thin slices and marinate with a little lemon juice and

olive oil for one minute. Season. Place the slices of tuna on the plate and a spoon of the crab on top. Make a quenelle with the avocado using two spoons and place at either end. CheFs’ tIp: In the restaurant we serve this with a savoury tuille which gives a crunchy texture to the dish. We make this by using equal quantities of flour, egg white and melted butter. You mix until smooth with a whisk and refrigerate. Spread onto a cooking mat and form rectangular shapes with a knife. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and bake at 180°C for 6-8 minutes. Serve on top of the crab.

Goodfellows 5 Sadler Street, City Centre, Wells BA5 2RR call: 01749 673 866 Visit: www.goodfellowswells.co.uk 67


> flavour the kings arms

flavour’s Maggie Fox paid a visit to a 15th-century historic pub nestled in the shadow of the Mendips…

The Kings Arms O

n a cold, wet and windy winter’s evening, my partner and I set off for The Kings Arms, situated in the historic Somerset village of Litton.

(brother of Luis), whose Michelin-star background promises plenty. The subtle use of décor, space and lighting lend an intimate ambience to the occasion.

It was therefore a warming sight when we were greeted by illuminated gardens and thicket-lined avenue leading towards the reception. A wall plaque proudly announced that we were finalists in Somerset Life’s 2012 Country Pubs of the Year.

I start with the seared beef carpaccio with shavings of Parmesan, fresh garden rocket and balsamic dressing. It was exquisite. I first discovered this dish last year while in Pisa and within the first few bites it struck me that ‘here I am sitting a few feet from the River Chew, enjoying the delights of Somerset beef prepared by a Portuguese chef’. It far exceeded my Italian delight. And that was only the starter!

Originally built in the 1420s, it started life as a food mill and soon became an informal meeting place for locals, farmers and producers alike – a tradition continued to this day. Warmly welcomed by front of house and landlord Luis Duarte (formerly of Babington House), we were escorted across the original flagstone floor, past the period features and into the bar area. The original open stone fireplaces, low wooden ceilings, exposed walls and a suit of armour only add character to the occasion. It’s clear Luis and his business partner, local entrepreneur Findlay Hobbs, have spent time lovingly restoring and developing the pub and restaurant since its acquisition in 2010. Settling in the snug bar, perusing the extensive wine list and large selection of spirits, cocktails, lagers, stouts and real ales, I plump for a rather fruity Rioja, while my partner dives into a pint of the local Butcombe Bitter. While enjoying the drinks and soaking up the atmosphere, we study the menu which includes a range of classic dishes with an innovative twist, through to chef’s specialities such as egg à la Coque with Avruga and Keta Caviar. Vegetarians are well catered for with a choice of two options per course. On our way through to the restaurant we pass the open kitchen where meal preparation can be observed – nowhere to hide here for head chef Joao Duarte 68

My partner opted for hand caught king scallops, garlic butter and pangratatto served within its shell and topped off with a king prawn. Visually it seemed a shame to disturb, however taste over aesthetics won the day, with the infusion of garlic and the lightly cooked scallop combining perfectly – right in taste, light in texture. For my main course I visited the specials board; whole plaice, capers, new potatoes, fresh green beans and fresh rosemary – perfectly cooked and seasoned, the meat fell apart with every bite. The tangy lemon flavour of the capers and fish blended perfectly with the fresh rosemary and tender new potatoes. Fresh means fresh at the Kings Arms, where they take great pride in sourcing local produce and organic where possible. My partner’s choice of Old Spot pork medallions with creamy morel mushrooms, Madeira and apple sauce, creamy mashed potato and crunchy mange tout was ‘tops’, the succulent pork complemented beautifully by the soft, sweet sauce and the mushrooms. The baked apple tart tatin and vanilla ice cream on a bed of crumble suited my partner for dessert, while I could not resist the Litton surprise – and that it was. The term heaven on a plate is often overused, yet when presented with a cacophony of all the homemade desserts, presented

as if on display at The Tate, then you are entitled to use it. From luscious sticky toffee pudding and pecan sauce to Kings chocolate trio, this really was a feast fit for a king, although I would recommend sharing as it’s a bit of a battle for one! Nothing was too much trouble for the staff, who were attentive yet discreet throughout the meal, ensuring a pleasurable dining experience. We retired to the garden suite with adjoining sunroom and courtyard garden, our bedroom coming with all the trimmings and personal touch of a five-star hotel. From fresh-cut flowers, king-size bed, hi-spec furnishings, Wi-Fi, matching his and hers bathrobes and complimentary toiletries, we knew we were in for a good night’s kip. The following morning and after a deep, restful sleep, we choose to eat breakfast beside a roaring open fire in the bar. Continental was the order of the day, though we could have chosen full English, full vegetarian, or smoked salmon and scrambled eggs. Our visit ended as it began with the hospitable Luis attending to our requirements. From check in to check out our stay was memorable – high-quality food and great service with personal care and attention to detail was faultless throughout. We vow to return and sample the delights of the more informal bar menu, maybe take in a local walk and enjoy a drink in the terrace gardens. There is so much choice on offer at the Kings Arms, Litton – a little secret in the Mendips that should be shared.

The Kings Arms Litton, Somerset BA3 4PW email luis@kingsarmslitton.com call 01761 241301 Visit www.kingsarmslitton.com


The term heaven on a plate is often overused, yet when presented with a cacophony of all the homemade desserts, presented as if on display at The Tate, then you are entitled to use it


> flavour xxxxxxx

18


> flavour chef profile

chef profile Name: Leigh Evans Age: 25 Where From: Cheddar Head Chefs at: The Chequers Where is Home? WestonSuper-Mare, but I live in Bath with my fiancée Becky

I

grew up in a pub, and started cooking from a very young age. With it being in the country, there was not a great deal for kids to do, so I took an interest in cooking and from the age of nine I would be in the kitchen, helping in whatever way I could, probably making more of a mess than anything... By the age of 13 I was working in service in our pub kitchen and by 14 I was running one service a week. We used to serve very simple, home-cooked food, so it was a great way to learn the basics and deal with the pressure of a kitchen – it was a great education. Like all serious kitchens, the hours can be long, but I like to think that what we’re achieving at The Chequers means it’s worth it and we are getting rewarded for our hard work. To be recognised by AA and Michelin means we must be working hard for a reason, and it’s paying off. We want to have a busy environment. If you’re busy then your product is good and you’re doing something right and I want to keep those accolades coming in and take Chequers as far as I can. We are really going places, so it’s easy to maintain enthusiasm knowing what you’re doing is working so well.

The Chequers 50 Rivers St Bath BA1 2QA 01225 360017 www.thechequersbath.com

I know it sounds a little clichéd but, you are only as good as your last plate of food so you always have to be making things better. I have a high expectancy of my chefs, so it’s easy for them to keep working to a high standard. I am also very lucky that my team are all pushing towards the same goals as me, so we are always moving forward. I feel we offer much more than most pubs out there; we have that great pub atmosphere, but a step-up from just your pub classics. We offer affordable dishes that the public normally have to go to expensive hotels and pay £70 a head for. Our service is fantastic, very knowledgeable, but not too formal or uncomfortable. I always have an eye out for what other chefs are doing and try to eat out as much as I can. I’m also lucky in that I use really knowledgeable suppliers, who

always suggest seasonal produce to use when available. I think we are very lucky in Bath, to live in a city, but be surrounded by such amazing countryside, where we can source our game, meat and vegetables. I have a great relationship with Eades Greengrocers, who have such great produce, and even grow things solely for the Chequers. Over the next few months there will be vegetables on my menu that no one else will have which is a great position to be in! I’m also a fan of classic flavour combinations, but with a modern twist. It’s always nice to surprise a customer with a dish they think they know, but turns out to be a totally different take, but still with the flavours they recognise. But saying that, we still have to be fairly flexible with the style at Chequers as we have people that just want a simple burger, but also people that want a more refined dish. A lot of people just want a simple burger and a pint or fish and chips with a glass of white wine. But if you were to choose from our à la carte menu, and it’s a special occasion, then I think it’s great to go through the courses with a different wine to accompany the dish. It really adds to the experience and the customer also takes on knowledge of matching different grapes to meats, fishes and so on – it certainly helps add to the diner’s experience. It was nice to pick up our recent accolades (AA Rosette and entered into the Michelin Guide). It’s great for the kitchen and front of house team as it rewards them for their hard work, and inspires them to attain the next one. From a customer’s point of view it’s great too, because they get to go to a place that is really buzzing, serves great food, with great service. I think it’s more important to be busy; there are so many 3 AA Rosette places out there that are so quiet and really struggling to get by. Not that I’d turn down any more accolades of course!

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> flavour what’s on

Ashton Court Christmas Food and Craft Fayre Saturday, December 1 and Sunday, December 2 Ashton Court stables and hayloft, 10.30am – 4.30pm Shop for unusual and unique gifts at Ashton Court’s annual Christmas Food and Craft Fayre, with over 40 local food and craft stalls set within one of Bristol’s finest estates. All that plus a deer walk, face painting, craft workshop, hot chestnuts, carols, mulled wine, hog roast and mince pies – it’s the perfect way to get you in the festive spirit!

Ashton Court Producers’ Christmas Market Sunday, December 16 Ashton Court courtyard, 10.30am – 2.30pm Grab those last-minute presents and stock the Christmas larder at Ashton Court’s Christmas Producers’ Market. With mulled cider, carols and stalls groaning with the finest festive food treats and crafts, it’s not to be missed!

www.mullioncove.net

What’s going on Countdown to ChristmAs at MilsoM place – Bath Mark the date, Thursday, December 13 for a festive shopping bonanza in Bath with late-night opening until 8pm. With just 12 days to Christmas Day, plan a shopping night out to wrap up your gift list or pick out a party frock. Fun and in-store action includes free fizz, gift wrapping service, great one-night-only discounts and goodie bags. Enjoy complimentary drinks in store and then keep the party going with some serious seasonal dining (restaurants will be offering a crèche service for your shopping bags). Imagine the sound of carols as the heady aroma of roasting chestnuts and mulled wine wafts through the crisp evening air – all set in a magical Georgian setting decorated with twinkling Christmas lights. With a winning combination of distinctive independents and favourite high-street brands, Bath is perfect for a Christmas shopping spree. Check out the website for details of stores opening late and in-store treats, offers and programme of entertainment. www.bathatchristmas.co.uk

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> flavour what’s on

Be sure to check out Langsfords Preserves at The Marlborough Christmas Lights event on Thursday, November 29 (from 3pm to 8pm), Corsham Market on the third Saturday of every month (3.30pm to 7.30pm) and Bradford-on-Avon Market on the third Thursday of every month (9am to 1pm). The Chilli Apple Jelly is particularly good!

Padstow Christmas Festival

www.langsfords-preserves.co.uk

Padstow Christmas Festival is taking place from Friday, December 7 to Sunday, December 9. Located around the harbourside in Padstow, this Cornish fishing town comes alive with celebrity chefs, festive cookery demonstrations and culinary delights. Coupled with live music, a lantern parade and Santa’s grotto, there is something for everyone at this three-day celebration.

Raisin Fine Wines

This year’s line-up features Rick Stein, Jack Stein, Nathan Outlaw, Paul Ainsworth, Mitch Tonks, Chris and James Tanner and Mark Sergeant among others. www.padstowchristmasfestival.co.uk

Bath’s independent Wine MeRchant Raisin Fine Wines specialise in wines from South America, the only wine-producing area still experiencing growth. And why is that? Simply because they are superb wines at a great price… ‘Tis the Season On Friday, December 15, Raisin Fine Wines are holding a special tasting of sparkling wines from around the world. Find your favourite with which to celebrate the ending of one year and the beginning of the new. Price per person £20 – redeemable against any 12 wines. Top Recommendations Alamos, Extra Brut, Mendoza, Argentina, N.V. £8.99 Start your festive celebration off with this pear, apple, toasted brioche and crisp citrus flavoured fizz.

Terre di Giumare, Frappato, Nerello, Mascalese, Sicily, Italy, 2011, £8.99 Christmas dinner is notoriously difficult to have one wine with but this is ideal. It’s like getting a big hug from a bramble and cassis-scented care bear. d’Arenberg, The noble wrinkled Riesling, McLaren Vale, South Australia, 2010, £12.39 The ideal Christmas pudding wine. An explosion of barley sugar, honeyed lime, marmalade and ripe exotic fruits. Raisin Wine have very kindly offered flavour readers 10% off any mixed 12 bottles of wine. Simply produce this page when visiting the premises to redeem the discount. Call 01225 422577 Visit www.raisinwine.co.uk

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Michel Roux: The collecTion

Michel Roux, QuadRille, £25

“This collection is a quantum leap, enabling me to select my favourite recipes and share them with you in one volume. My cooking never stands still. i am constantly looking for ways to further develop my recipes, introduce new ingredients, new flavour combinations, even refining the classics. These recipes represent the way i love eating today.”

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> flavour Michel Roux

TeRRine of baby vegeTables Serves 8–10

CeleriaC mousse ½ celeriac, about 300g 500ml double cream 4 eggs 3 egg yolks salt and freshly ground white pepper BaBy vegetaBles 125g baby artichokes (the kind you can eat raw) 50ml dry white wine 2 tbsp olive oil juice of 1 lemon 150g baby carrots, peeled 175g baby fennel 150g medium asparagus spears 125g baby courgettes 125g broccoli florets 4 herb crêpes, 26–30cm diameter to garnish Confit tomatoes samphire Caper berries Fennel fronds

You can prepare the terrine several hours ahead and refrigerate it until ready to serve. Simply slice the terrine and steam for a few minutes to warm through. line a rectangular mould, about 20cm x 6cm and 6cm deep, with cling film, letting it overhang the sides of the mould all round. First make the celeriac mousse. Peel the celeriac and cut into 2cm pieces. Place in a saucepan with the cream and cook gently for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the celeriac is tender and the cream has reduced by half. Tip into a food processor and whiz for 3 minutes, or until smooth. leave in the processor to cool slightly, until warm. add the whole eggs, egg yolks and seasoning and whiz for 1 minute. Turn into a bowl, cover with cling film and set aside at room temperature. To prepare the artichokes, cut off the 76

tips of the leaves with a knife and pare the base to leave only the tender part of the stem and heart. Put the artichokes in a saucepan with the white wine, olive oil, lemon juice and enough water to cover. cook over a low heat for about 8 minutes until the artichokes are tender and soft. leave to cool in the liquid, then drain and pat dry; set aside. Peel, trim and wash all the other vegetables. lightly cook them separately in boiling salted water until al dente, then drain, plunge into iced water to refresh, drain and pat dry. Preheat the oven to 160°c/Gas mark 3. To assemble the terrine, use a knife to trim the crêpes into squares and arrange them side by side on the cling film, leaving plenty of overhang at both ends and one side of the mould. Spread a 2–3cm layer of cold celeriac mousse over the base. arrange a line of one variety of vegetable over

the mousse and cover with more mousse. Gently tap the terrine to settle it and layer the other vegetables and remaining mousse in the same way, finishing with a 3cm layer of mousse. Fold the overhanging crêpes, then the cling film over the top. Stand the terrine in a bain-marie and cook in the oven for about 1¼ hours. To check if it is cooked, push a trussing needle or fine skewer into the centre for 10 seconds; it should come out completely clean and feel hot. leave the terrine to cool, then refrigerate for at least 24 hours before serving. To serve, unmould the terrine on to a board and carefully peel off the cling film. using a fine-bladed knife dipped into warm water, cut into 1.5–2cm slices. Place on individual plates and garnish with confit tomatoes, some samphire, a few caper berries, some fennel fronds and a coarse grinding of white pepper.


> flavour Michel Roux

feTTuccine wiTh sMoked Mussels and pesTo Serves 4

1kg lightly smoked Bouchot or shetland mussels (see below) salt and freshly ground pepper 350–400g fettuccine, freshly made from 1 quantity pasta dough or shopbought fresh pasta 4 tbsp olive oil juice of 1 lemon ½ quantity pesto (see page 304) 4 basil sprigs, preferably purple, to garnish

Lightly smoked mussels You will need a heavy casserole, about 30cm in diameter and at least 15cm deep, with a tight-fitting lid, a 10–20cm flan ring and a 25cm round wire rack. Line the base and underside of the casserole lid with foil, to protect from the sugary smoke. Put in the flan ring. Grind 10g (about 3) star anise, 10g dried lemon zest, from 1 lemon and 250g demerara sugar together in a spice grinder or food processor to a fine powder. Sprinkle this mixture over the foil and position the wire rack on the ring.

Scrub 1kg fresh Bouchot or Shetland mussels, wash in several changes of water and drain. Put the mussels on the rack. Put the lid on the casserole and place over a high heat. as soon as a light smoke seeps out, lower the heat and smoke for 6–8 minutes until the mussels have all opened. Turn off the heat and move the lid very slightly so as to barely uncover the casserole. after about 10 minutes, shell almost all of the mussels, keeping a few in the half-shell for the garnish. discard any unopened mussels.

tbsp olive oil and cook for 3–4 minutes until al dente. drain and return to the pan. add the remaining olive oil and the lemon juice. Season with pepper to taste, add the shelled mussels and toss lightly. immediately divide the fettuccine and mussels between 4 deep plates or bowls. arrange the reserved mussels on top, add a generous drizzle of pesto and put a basil sprig on the edge of each bowl.

Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil. add the fettuccine with 2 77


> flavour Michel Roux

chicken bReasTs wiTh fennel Serves 4

4 boneless or part-boned chicken breasts 2 fennel bulbs 2 large carrots, peeled 2 tablespoons olive oil salt and freshly ground pepper 40g butter 1 tbsp fresh fennel seeds marinade 2 tbsp runny honey Juice of ½ lemon 4 tbsp olive oil Pinch of cayenne Fennel fronds

78

Mix all the marinade ingredients in a wide, shallow bowl, adding a little salt. Add the chicken breasts and turn them to coat thoroughly. Cover with cling ďŹ lm and leave for 1 hour, turning them halfway through. cut the fennel lengthways into 5mm thick slices. Blanch in boiling water for 5 minutes, refresh and drain. Score the carrots with a canelle knife, cut into 5mm diagonal slices and blanch for 3 minutes, then refresh and drain. lightly brush the fennel and carrots with oil. heat a griddle pan until smoking hot. add the fennel and griddle for 2 minutes, then add the carrots and griddle for a further 3 minutes, giving

them a quarter-turn to mark a lattice. Turn over and repeat on the other side. Season, place on a plate and keep hot. Put the chicken pieces in the hot griddle pan, skin side down. once they are marked with lines, quarter-turn to make a lattice pattern. Turn them over, lower the heat and give them a quarter-turn as before. cook for 12–15 minutes in total, depending on thickness. arrange the fennel slices on plates and top with the chicken. Place the carrots alongside. Put a knob of butter on each chicken breast and top with fennel seeds.


> flavour Michel Roux

This classic is more familiar under the guise of summer pudding, but it is equally good made in the autumn, when berries are full flavoured and at their most fragrant. Vary the berries and fresh currants according to what is in season. cut the fennel lengthways into 5mm in a medium saucepan, dissolve the sugar in 500ml water over a medium heat and slowly bring to the boil, then lower the heat. every 20 seconds, immerse a different fruit into the sugar syrup in the following order: blackberries, strawberries, blackcurrants, blueberries, raspberries, redcurrants. Remove the pan from the heat 20 seconds after you add the last of the fruit. cover the pan with cling film and set aside to allow the fruit to cool in the poaching liquid. Meanwhile, purée the 250g raspberries in a blender and pass through a fine sieve. once cold, carefully drain the poached fruit over a bowl to save the syrup. Mix one-third of the syrup into the raspberry purée. lightly brush the inside of a 900ml pudding basin with the melted butter. Trim the crusts from the bread slices. cut an 8cm round from one slice; cut

the remaining slices into strips, about 3cm wide. dip the bread round into the raspberry syrup, then place in the bottom of the basin. one at a time, lightly dip the bread slices in the raspberry syrup, then arrange them, slightly overlapping, around the side of the basin to line it completely. Fill with the cooled, poached fruit and pour a little of the remaining raspberry syrup on top. (Save any leftover syrup to serve on the side, if you like.)

auTuMn pudding Serves 6

700g mixed soft fruits (ideally equal quantities of raspberries, strawberries, blackberries, blueberries and blackcurrants or redcurrants) 250g extra raspberries for the sauce 350g caster sugar 30g butter, melted, to grease 1 good-quality white sandwich loaf, cut into about 14 medium slices

Top with a layer of bread strips, dunking them first in the raspberry syrup. cover the pudding with cling film and put a plate that just fits inside the rim of the basin on top. Place a weight on top to help compress the pudding and refrigerate for 6–12 hours before serving. When ready to serve, remove the weight, plate and cling film. carefully slide a palette knife around the inside of the basin and turn out the pudding on to a shallow dish or lipped plate. You can either present it whole, or in individual portions, using a very sharp knife to cut it into wedges. Thick cream is the perfect complement.

Michel Roux: The collecTion Michel Roux Quadrille, £25

in his latest cookbook, world-renowned chef Michel Roux gathers 250 of his finest recipes, devised, refined and perfected during his illustrious 45-year career. Featuring mouthwatering contemporary dishes alongside Michel’s interpretations of the great classics, Michel Roux: The c collection is the ultimate cookery bible to inspire and encourage homecooks. covering all seasons and all occasions, the cookbook is divided into nine chapters: Breakfast and brunch; Starters; Fish and shellfish; Poultry; Meat and game; Vegetables; eggs and cheese; desserts; Baking; Party food; Stocks and sauces. dishes include tempting savoury recipes such as seafood risotto with crustacean essence, poussins scented with ginger and lemongrass and wild mushroom cappelletti, as well as an array of sweet suggestions from simple classics such as poached pears in Sauternes to impressive soufflés, mousses and tarts. all recipes are accompanied by easy step-by-step instructions and accompanied with stunning photographs, making it a must-have recipe collection from one of the world’s greatest chefs. 79



> flavour mystir

MyStir

Clever thinking tea drinking

M

yStir is all about fun mixtures and creating unique tea blends. This new Bristol-based company delivers a smart online solution for creating customised tea mixtures, which enable customers to enjoy their own, very individual tea. The website offers a wide range of ingredients, including green, white, black and oolong tea, herbs, natural dried fruits, flowers and spices. You simply pick the ingredients and christen your tea with a personal name. It could be an awesome oolong, a smoky lapsang, a sweet rooibos or a cheeky little herbal but whatever the tone, it will certainly be very special to you. You can have fun mixing your tea: there are exactly 884,026 possible tea combinations! MyStir is also committed to delivering a collection of pre-selected tea blends. The choice of teas is large: spiced Masala Chai, calming herbal Anti-Stress and Balance Tea, colourful Sencha Rose or stunning

Snow Buds are but a few. The founders of MyStir, Krystyna and Tom, believe that a good drink cannot be rushed. That’s why they only sell loose tea. If you are the kind of person that just wants a quick dip, MyStir, quite literally, won’t be your cup of tea! Mystir uses only 100 per cent natural ingredients and there are absolutely no artificial flavourings added to their teas. They scent the tea leaves with fragrant jasmine and rose petals, aromatic ginger, cinnamon or natural bergamot oil... Unlike the mainstream market, MyStir tea comes from tea gardens, which meet very high quality and ethical standards. By purchasing their tea you support sustainable gardens that produce tea in a responsible manner. If you want to taste a world of wonderful tea blends visit MyStir… www.mystir.com 0117 961 6116

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> flavour goodman’s geese

The Montague Inn Hidden away among the Somerset country lanes is The Montague Inn; a traditional 18th-century local where everyone receives a warm welcome.

leaves you breathless with its space and huge picture windows opening onto the terrace and garden with wide-reaching rural views.

The cosy bar guarantees a warm and friendly atmosphere for that quiet chat or the simple enjoyment of the local ales and ciders. The tastefully furnished restaurant

Noted and awarded for local sourcing of food and drink, whether it is a homemade pie or an à la carte dining extravaganza, owners Sean and Suzy O’Callaghan, with

Head Chef Matt Dean, deliver a seasonal menu from the very best of the South West. A favoured meeting place, halfway to everywhere in the middle of nowhere. Bring along the whole family, the dogs or just on your own as you won’t be disappointed!

Wild Venison with Seasonal Root Vegetables SeRVeS 2 IngredIenTs • 1 fillet of wild venison • 3 medium-sized potatoes • 2 parsnips • 200g of unsalted butter • 1 swede • 3 carrots • Basic beef gravy • Redcurrant jelly

MeThod

place in the oven for 10-12 minutes.

Pre-heat the oven to 160 degrees.

While the rosti and venison are in the oven, prepare seasonal vegetables such as carrots and beans or a swede purée. Peel and dice the swede, cook for 8-10 minutes in seasoned boiling water. When soft, mash the swede with a knob of butter and season. For the jus, add the redcurrant jelly to a basic gravy.

For the rosti you will need to grate your potatoes and parsnips (use a finer grater) then, using a fine cloth, squeeze any excess moisture out. In a bowl mix in your butter and season and add the grated potato and parsnip. Prepare a hot oiled pan, add the rosti mix and cook over a low heat until golden brown. Do this on both sides then place in oven for 20-22 minutes. Heat up a frying pan, lightly coat with oil and colour the outside of your fillet of venison until lightly browned. Season and

Remove the venison from the oven and rest for 2-3 minutes while the rosti is cut and served along with the vegetables. Quickly slice the venison and serve with your redcurrant jus.

The Montague Inn Shepton Montague, Nr Wincanton BA9 8JW call: 01749 813 213 Visit: www.themontagueinn.co.uk 83


> flavour bertinet bakery

The Bertinet Bakery T

he Bertinet Bakery is a family owned and run artisan bakery based in Bath. Led by the BBC Food Champion Richard Bertinet, the bakery produces a fantastic range of award-winning breads including wheat and rye sourdoughs, spelt bread, baguettes, ciabatta and focaccias as well as some wonderful speciality loaves and a wide range of pastries, savouries and patisserie. The bakery opened its first shop in January this year in New Bond Street Place. As well as offering the full range of breads and pastries, the shop hosts a café on the first floor where you can enjoy a pot of loose leaf tea served in vintage china, huge breakfast bowls of coffee or hot chocolate for dunking your croissant or a bucket of Bertinet bread that you can toast at your own table. The bakery is expanding again this month with a second shop in the new Vaults development at Southgate. Now named Brunel Square and sitting between Bath Spa rail station and the bus station, the new shop will offer much of the full range 84

plus sandwiches and food to go to serve commuters, visitors and residents on the south side of the city. Both shops are open seven days a week and in the run up to Christmas will open until 7pm on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. A range of Bertinet products is also available from the bakery’s outpost at Neston Park Farm Shop, from Waitrose in Bath, though the Riverford Organic box scheme in Bristol, Bath, Somerset and Gloucestershire and from other selected delis and food stores in Bath and Bristol. Many of the breads have been recognised, with awards including the signature sourdough loaf (Soil Association Organic Product of the Year 2010 and 2011), the baguettes, burger buns, rosemary focaccia and raisin & carraway rye sourdough. With Christmas coming up the bakery has just launched its festive range that includes mince pies, stollen, Christmas cakes, Christmas puddings, Buche de Noel and biscotti.

FACT BOX • Bertinet sourdough contains just three ingredients: flour, water and sea salt. • The cheese and meat boards contain wonderful local produce including Neston Park ham, game salami and Baronet cheese, Old Demdike and Trethowan’s Caerphilly as well as their own rillettes. • Fabulous new products include marmalade bread & butter pudding (served warm with ice-cream in the café), cinnamon buns and individual Black forest gateaux.

The Bertinet Bakery 6 New Bond Street Place, Bath BA1 1BH 2 Brunel Square, Bath BA1 1SX call: 01225 445531 Visit: www.bertinet.com



r o t c o D b r e H The Max Drake is a practising medical herbalist at the Urban Fringe Dispensary, where he runs courses and workshops teaching how to use herbs safely and effectively, treat common ailments and stay healthy.

Barberry {Berberis vulgaris} Nicholas Culpeper, writing in 1653, said of barberry: “The shrub is so well known by every boy and girl that has but attained the age of seven years, that it needs no description.” Which, roughly translated, means it was as common as daisies.You still see it around as a hedging plant and in parks, but it’s mostly confined to gardens these days. You can see why – with its yellow clusters of blooms in May and its dark red leaves and bright red berries in the autumn, it puts on a bit of a show twice a year. The flowers are small, pale yellow, and hang like a cluster at the end of branches. Herbalists generally use the bark for making a highly effective liver and gall bladder remedy. The best part of the plant for this purpose is the root bark, but the stem bark works quite well also.You strip the bark off in the autumn and spread it out on newspaper to dry, or use a food dryer if you have one, and then scrape off the inner yellow bark (or ‘rind’, as Culpeper described it). If this sounds a bit alarming for the plant, don’t worry. It produces a mass of roots and runners, and as long as you’re not brutal, the plant will survive and produce another load of roots and stems for next year. So why go to the trouble? Well, barberry is one of our foremost bitter remedies. In stimulating the liver to 86

produce more bile, and the gall bladder to secrete it more freely, it has an overall tonic effect on the organs of elimination – helping to clear out toxins and dispel heat from the body. It contains an alkaloid, berberine, which is both anti-inflammatory and anti-fungal, which probably plays a major part in the therapeutic actions of the medicine acting on the gastrointestinal tract. Barberry has proved itself useful time and again in my practice in the treatment of chronic skin conditions, such as psoriasis, when giving the liver a bit of a tweak seems to be all that’s required. It won’t work in every case, but it sure does work when it does. Culpeper used to recommend boiling the bark in white wine for 20 minutes, and then drinking a quarter of a pint every morning. This would be to “cleanse the body of choleric humours, and free it from such diseases as choler causes, such as scabs, itch, tetters, ringworms, yellow, jaundice, boils, hot agues, burnings, scaldings, heat of the blood, heat of the liver, bloody flux...” Definitely going to use it next time I get a touch of the tetters.


Your lifestyle guide to all things eco...

November 2012

Beat the Queues Let the bus remove the fuss

An Alternative Christmas You could try camping!

Need warming up? Take a tour of a West Country chilli farm

www.greenlivingmagazine.co.uk



The Upton Cheyney Chilli Company

U

pton Cheyney is a small village situated on the edge of the Cotswolds halfway between Bristol and Bath. Besides glorious panoramic views over Bristol, Bath and the Welsh mountains, Upton Cheyney is also blessed with a farm shop, cafe, traditional village pub and chilli farm! The chilli farm grew its first crop four years ago and is about to enter its fifth season. The pods that are harvested every autumn encompass a wide range of heats, from mild to wild, including some of the hottest chillies in the world. In the early years of the farm, the colourful fruits were used in a variety of sauces and jams, while recently a range of chilli chocolates and rapeseed oils (manufactured in conjunction with local farmers Bath Harvest) have also become available. With the brand becoming increasingly popular, the chilli fanatics at the Upton Cheyney Chilli Company are introducing an exciting new idea – Farm Tours and Tasting Experiences. The project is aimed at making

greenliving

Upton Cheyney a UK centre of chilli education, with the tour taking in all aspects of chilli growing and cooking. The tour lasts approximately 1.5 hours and includes a trip around the poly tunnels, the opportunity to harvest your own pods, a demonstration of smoking chillies and the subsequent production of chipotle, a visit to the farm kitchen to observe how they manufacture the pods and the chance to sample their award-winning range of sauces, chocolates and oils. On top of this, you will also get to sample the amazing variety of chilli flavours in the tasting experience. Designed to temper the heat to a degree, the experience allows the flavour of the various chillies to shine through, something which is often lost due to the extreme nature of the raw material. Farm Tour vouchers are available from the website and are priced at £25 for individuals and £40 for couples – the perfect Christmas gift for your chilli loving friends and family.

Manor Farm, Upton Cheyney BS30 6NQ Call 07817 844802 Visit www.uptonchilli.co.uk


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Beat the queues at

ChriStMaS if you’re not one of those ultraorganised people who have already done their shopping, it’s that time of year when you’re probably starting to plan your Christmas present list and thinking about getting to the shops ahead of the big day. it can be a very stressful time for many people, and busier shops mean busier roads to get there. Finding a car parking space can also become challenging at this time of year; so what should be an enjoyable outing can often become fraught if you are sitting in traffic queues or driving around trying to find somewhere to park. have you considered alternatives to taking the car?

november 2012

Why not try a more relaxing start to your Christmas shopping by letting the bus take the fuss out of your journey? You may even like it and consider it as an alternative way to commute even if only occasionally. Many people who have tried the bus recently have been very surprised at the improvements to services and have switched how they travel. You can plan your journey and find real-time bus departure times on the website – a helpful online resource for all things travel-related around the West, however you choose to travel.

www.travelwest.info


greenliving

Camping in the Forest an alternative Christmas experience... Camping in the Forest has eight sites open this winter and as a welcome on arrival, you will be given a festive treat! So why not enjoy Christmas or New Year on one of our sites? Woodland trails are perfect for walking, cycling, taking in the spectacular views and spotting festive wildlife such as robins and deer. Whether you are looking to escape the hustle and bustle or would like to spend time with family and friends in relaxed and beautiful surroundings we have something to suit you. Book your pitch online or call us on 0845 130 8224 to enjoy a very Merry Christmas with Camping in the Forest.

We are pleased to give Camping and Caravanning Club members a 15 per cent discount on all Camping in the Forest sites – and under 5s go free! For all discounts visit our website campingintheforest.co.uk. if you are staying on site over Christmas all campers will be able to enjoy a complimentary glass of mulled wine and mince pie with the on-site team to get you in the festive spirit – as well as a few other surprises! Enjoy a Camping in the Forest break today with prices from £12.10* Call 0845 130 8224 Visit www.campingintheforest.co.uk

The following Camping in the Forest sites are open all year: Ardgartan – Dunbartonshire Postern Hill – Wiltshire Beddgelert – Gwynedd Setthorns – Hampshire Christchurch – Gloucester Spiers House – North Yorkshire Glenmore – Inverness-shire Thorpe – Norfolk *Prices based on 1 pitch for 2 people in low season.

november 2012


A HAND UP

FOR FAIR TRADE COMMUNITIES Retired dis trict nurse , Christine in her gard Lloyd keep en in the vi s seven he llage of Ha For the pa ns llbankgate st two yea near Bram rs she has de from the sa pton posited th le of her eg e money m . gs into a S ade hare Acco “I opened unt. the Share d Interest it up with account w the sale o ith £100 an f the eggs. my money d top For is with Sh ared Intere me, I know that whils and time a st, it is bein t gain to fair g lent out trade proje world to h time cts in the elp them g developin row their b an income g usinesses for their fa and provid milies and communit e benefits to ies.” their

help local directly to es o g s st rade ve uvian Fairt Christine in g world. Per ancing from in The money p o el ev d ng fin es in the jillo are usi lant. communiti ucers, Naran r cocoa processing p e d ro p a co ei co th th ve p o ro el p ev well as im rest to d ability. ductivity as Shared Inte n ro ai p st se su ea d incr cy an This should e’s efficien h said: co-operativ Executive Paul Sablic t evelopmen expand its Regional D was able to lo jil n ra ope to a N e US. We h our funds, rope and th ke of the 2,500 u “Thanks to E to s le ocoa sa r the sa Fairtrade c growth, fo perative.” lping their e up the co-o h e e k u a n ti m n t a co th rs e cocoa farm

By opening a Share Account and becoming an investor you can help communities in the developing world access fair finance and create sustainable livelihoods. Investing in Shared Interest is easy, anyone over the age of 16 with a UK bank account can open a Share Account with as little as £100. Call 0191 233 9102, visit www.shared-interest.com or return this slip to

Shared Interest, FREEPOST NT1883, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE1 1BR

Yes, I’d like to find out about investing in a fairer world. Please send me more information about Shared Interest. Full name Address

______________________________________ ______________________________________ ____________________________________

Telephone Email

______________________________________ ______________________________________ G1234567


> flavour romy’s kitchen

Romy Gill is a chef, businesswoman, writer, wife, mother and runner! She focuses on the nutrition and healthy aspects of Indian cooking. Passionate about good health, Romy has lost a great deal of weight and devised her recipes – ‘Curries without Calories’ – to complement her own branded range of pickles and sauces. Romy has performed in food festivals all over the country, has appeared on TV and used

to be a presenter on a local radio station Thornbury FM.

eating seasonal food and its impact on the environment.

She is proud to be heavily involved in youth culture and gives talks and cookery demonstrations in schools and cookery classes, where she discusses how food is grown, the importance of

Romy will open her first restaurant – Romy’s Kitchen – in the autumn. Watch this space! Visit Romy’s site at:

Follow Romy on Twitter @romyskitchen Find Romy on Facebook under Romy’s Kitchen

www.romyskitchen.co.uk

Butter Chicken Serves

Follow Romy

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Out of all the chicken dishes I make, my girls love this one the best. I always teach this one in my cookery classes and again, everyone who learns loves it! The reason I also like this recipe is because it used to be a favourite of mine while growing up and funnily enough, still is! I have only changed a few little things as this has been in our family recipe collection for generations. I hope you love it as much as everyone else seems too…

Method

Ingredients Marinade • 500g boneless chicken (diced) • 50g Greek natural yogurt smooth • 1 tbsp plain flour • 2 tsp finely grated ginger • ½ tsp finely grated garlic • ½ tsp garam masala • ½ tsp tandoori masala (optional) • ½ tsp cumin powder • ½ tsp coriander powder • 2 tsp red Kashmiri chilli powder

Sauce • 500g fresh tomatoes, blended (blanch tomatoes in hot water and remove skin) • 2 tsp rapeseed Oil • 2 tsp finely grated ginger • 1 tsp finely grated garlic • 2 tsp tomato puree • ½ tsp garam masala • 1 tsp tandoori masala (optional) • 4 tbsp cashew nuts • 100ml single cream • 2 bay leaves • 2 tsp dry fenugreek leaves • Salt to taste

1. Mix all ingredients of marinade and marinate chicken in it for two hours or overnight if you can. Soak the cashew nuts in hot water for 10 minutes, drain and grind to fine paste in blender, add a little water if needed. 2. Heat oil in a pan and add marinated chicken to it and cook over medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes until the chicken is tender and cooked. For sauce, heat butter or oil in a pan add the bay leaves, add grated ginger and garlic. Cook for one minute or until it turns light brown. 3. Add blended tomatoes, cook until tomatoes turn dry and oil separates (about four minutes). Add tomato purée, mix well. 4. Add cooked chicken, mix well, cook on low heat for five minutes. Add 100ml of cream, cashew paste, rest of species, salt and chillies to taste, stir occasionally on low heat for 10 to 12 minutes. 5. Add dry fenugreek leaves, cover the pan and rest it for 10 minutes before serving.

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> flavour nick harman

Dishing the dirt Nick Harman realises that if you aren’t prepared to catch the ball, you shouldn’t throw the ball in the first place… It’s a dangerous game being a restaurant critic; chefs are volatile beasts. The heat, the long days and the constant pressure are all ingredients in a recipe for short tempers, bad behaviour and bubbling over. Sweary Gordon is legendary, of course, but tales of chefs charging past the pass with cleaver in hand to confront a hated critic abound. Chefs are a bit hypocritical about this; if a critic loves their food, he or she is clearly a person of taste and experience. If they don’t like it, well they’re clearly idiots. Either way the professional critic has always wearily accepted angry responses from slated chefs, as much as charming love letters from féted ones, as all par for the course.

Today we are all restaurant critics. Safe back home, late in the evening, possibly a trifle drunk, we can go onto a website or personal blog and, using fist blows to the keyboard, type out ‘worst meal ever!’ press ‘send’ and fall happily into bed. If short of time, or just lazy, we can do it via Twitter. This last can have surprising results; you may only have three followers, one of whom is your mother, but if one of them retweets, then another, there’s every chance the comment could go viral in moments. And then chef gets to see it. This happened last month and a two-star chef went ballistic with a blogger who tweeted that he hadn’t liked his two-star meal much. Then other chefs closed ranks and joined in, putting the clog into the

blogger in no uncertain terms. The blogger burst into tears and Twitter gathered around, like old ladies at a bus stop with a bullied child, to offer him a virtual hanky and tut disapprovingly at the nasty chefs. Well the blogger learnt something that is worth repeating to all would be opinion formers. If you choose to criticise a chef in a public forum, then the chef may criticise you back the same way. You’ve got every right to say you didn’t like his food, he has every right to call you an ignorant fool. Or worse. The real danger for any kind of critic or chef is of taking it all, or himself, too seriously.

Nick Harman is editor of www.foodepedia.co.uk and was shortlisted last year for The Guild of Food Writer’s Restaurant Reviewer of the Year. 94


Tortworth Court Surrounded by beautiful English countryside, with 30 acres of private grounds and an arboretum, Tortworth Court Hotel benefits from a superb Cotswolds location. Bedrooms

Dining

Spa and Leisure Club

If you are looking for hotel accommodation in Gloucestershire with elegance and character, look no further. We have a range of luxury rooms and suites to choose from.

Experience the very best of locally sourced food, freshly prepared by our expert chefs in one of our two restaurants. All offer delicious food in glorious surroundings.

Indulge in some serious pampering in Peels, our luxury hotel spa and leisure club. Work out in our gym or enjoy a treatment in the hotel spa.

Short Breaks & Holidays

Leisure Break Offers

Enjoy a luxury short hotel break. Explore the surrounding area, relax in the spa and experience fine dining. We even offer a range of speciality weekend breaks.

Take a look at our late availability rates, special offers and short breaks.

Weddings and Functions This Cotswolds country house hotel provides an idyllic Gloucestershire hotel venue for weddings, functions and private parties of all sizes. Wotton-under-Edge, South Glos GL12 8HH

Call: 01454 263000 Visit: www.tortworth-court-hotel.four-pillars.co.uk

Conferences and Meetings Tortworth Court Hotel adds a sense of occasion to any conference, business meeting or corporate event, and can accommodate up to 400 delegates. We can even offer team-building events.

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