April 2020 Feast Magazine

Inspired Local Food Culture

/

MIDWEST

gooey goodness Get our recipe for the original St. Louis treat on p. 23

APRIL 2020

A fury for flavor.

Reservations: kcharrahs.com

wild s b o j . e r u t a n t i f e n e B . m a e t r u o n i o J

Missouri Department of Conservation

The team is diverse, dedicated, and doing what we love — with a robust employee retention rate of 95 percent to prove it. If you, too, are intrinsically motivated to conserve and protect Missouri's fish, forest, and wildlife resources, you just might be the secret ingredient we're looking for. Check out jobs.mdc.mo.gov to explore a variety of career possibilities with us.

Natural resource management • Education • Research • IT • Business • Journalism • Construction • Community and private land conservation • Law enforcement • Human dimensions • Engineering • Marketing • Administrative support • Human resources • Maintenance • Accounting • Administration • Web and digital media • And more ...

Connect With Us!

/moconservation

@moconservation

@MDC_online

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Inspired Local Food Culture /

midwest

April

2020

Volume 10 / Issue 4 contributors

Vice President of Niche Publishing, Publisher of Feast Magazine

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

EDITORIAL

sales

Editor in chief

For advertising inquiries, please contact:

Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com managing editor

sales@feastmagazine.com 314.475.1298

Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com

Special projects coordinator

assistant editor

Aubrey Byron, abyron@feastmagazine.com

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor

Mabel Suen fact checker

Karen Parkman Proofreader

Alecia Humphreys Contributing Writers

Sara Bannoura, Julia Calleo, Gabrielle DeMichele, Amanda Elliott, April Fleming, Teresa Floyd, Natalie Gallagher, Hilary Hedges, Rogan Howitt, JC Sandt, Nancy Stiles, Lillian Stone, Jenn Tosatto, Jessica Vaughn Martin, Shannon Weber

SARA BANNOURA St. Louis, Writer

“Please believe me when I say my fridge now has Volpi Foods products in it at all times. I’ve always liked the dry-cured meats, but after getting to personally speak with the president of the company, [Lorenza Pasetti], my appreciation for all Volpi does has grown tremendously. It’s local and dedicated to its craft and keeps the environment and sustainability in mind,

FEAST TV

which is a plus for big companies like this one. No wonder it’s been called the best in the industry. My favorite product so

producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios

far is the coppa, a traditional cured boneless pork shoulder.

Contact Us

satisfying snack.” (Handcrafted Heritage, p. 44)

Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Eric Freeman for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at efreeman@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

Wrapped around sharp Cheddar, it makes for the most

Notley Hawkins

Columbia, Missouri, Photographer "I had a great experience shooting the toasted ravioli, caprese salad and apple-bourbon pulled pork pizza at PaPPo's in Columbia, Missouri. The natural wood finish of the furniture in the bar and dining room areas create a warm and inviting atmosphere. The manager and staff were amiable and accommodating. I also had the privilege of sampling the food they prepared for the shoot, and it was delicious. The pizza was especially good, featuring a chewy pan-style crust with a tangy aftertaste." (Dine & Drink, p. 15)

ART

LILLIAN STONE

Art Director

Springfield, Missouri, Writer

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com

“I’m a Springfield native, but I moved to

Contributing Photographers

Chicago a little over a year ago. Given my

Zach Bauman, Keith Borgmeyer, Julia Calleo, Amber Deery, Judd Demaline, Curt Dennison, Teresa Floyd, Notley Hawkins, Jessica Kennon Spencer, Paige McDonald, George Mitchell, Sam O'Keefe, Aaron Ottis, Jonathan Pollack, Shawn Robbins, Madison Sanders, Matt Seidel, Jennifer Silverberg, Starboard & Port Creative, Mabel Suen, Alistair Tutton, Kim Wade, Darin Williams

[roots], cashew chicken is one of those things I’m proud to claim as a Springfield original (along with the world’s largest fork, a legendary shoot-out in the town square and Brad Pitt).

The dish is nutty, saucy and satisfying, but it’s also polarizing, igniting spirited debate among Springfield locals. As a powerful symbol of ingenuity, diversity and belonging, cashew chicken gets people talking – and I think that’s

Contributing illustrators

pretty great.” (The Dish, p. 34)

Kim Cho

shawn robbins Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork.

Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2020 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

St. Louis, Photographer "I’ve always loved food institutions in major cities; Swan Oyster Depot in San Francisco, Katz's Delicatessen in New York City and Café Du Monde in New Orleans all hold a special place in my heart. So when I got the

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

opportunity to shoot inside Crown Candy Kitchen in St. Louis, I was elated. Talking to Andy [Karandzieff] about its history – and the fact that a majority of the interior is from the original 1913 construction – helped me feel the weight of the place. Photographing the food – which was extremely filling – was not as much of a challenge

on the cover Gooey butter cake by Teresa Floyd table of contents Go Out: The Full Ride burger at Grad School in Kansas City by Alistair Tutton; Stay In: How-To Hollandaise Sauce by Julia Calleo; Features: Prosciutto and salami hang in a drying room beneath Volpi Foods in St. Louis by Matt Seidel

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as eating it. You can’t eat the skyscraper of bacon that is the Heart-Stopping BLT without feeling like you’re a champion of some sort." (One on One, p. 17)

Go Out

Stay In

/ 14 /

/ 13 /

DINE & DRINK The Tenderloin Room, Grad School, Sagua La Grande Cuban Cafe, Re-Voaked Sandwiches, Hughes Bar X Ranch, PaPPo’s Pizzeria & Pub, Mickey's Hideaway

/ 24 /

/ 23 / sugar Rush

Gooey butter cake / 24 / How-to

Hollandaise sauce

/ 16 / shop here

Browne’s Irish Marketplace

/ 26 / the mix

The Last Word

/ 17 / one on one

Andy Karandzieff of Crown Candy Kitchen

/ 27 / midwest made

Soft drinks

/ 18 / hot blocks

The Hill in St. Louis

/ 28 / on trend

Alternative flours

/ 19 / one on one

Joe West of The Savoy at 21c

/ 30 / healthy appetite

Mushroom Reuben

/ 20 / Hometown hits

Dixon’s “Famous” Chili, Old Brick House,

White Rose Café

/ 32 / mystery shopper Einkorn

/ 21 / one on one

Scott Cleeton of CC's City Broiler

Features

/ 44 /

44

Handcrafted Heritage

49 53

Tavern Tradition

For more than 110 years, St. Louis’ Volpi Foods has been refining the science and the art of dry-curing meat.

After 186 years, J. Huston Tavern in Arrow Rock, Missouri, can still draw a crowd.

50 Years of Burnt Ends How free throwaways became Kansas City’s most popular dish.

/ 34 / the dish

Springfield-style cashew chicken / 36 / quick fix

Pork tenderloin sandwich / 37 / culinary library

Tracy Russell of Iron Horse Hotel & Restaurant / 38 / crash course Onions

In Every Issue

/ 6 / from the PUBLISHER

A note about COVID-19 / 7 / events / 8 / feast tv

Midwest meat / 58 / b ack burner / a pr i l 2 02 0

5

Letter

from the

Publisher

A

s I sit here writing this letter, St. Louis restaurants and bars are scheduled to close for dine-in business by midnight tonight. In my two decades of covering the culinary scene, I never thought something like that could happen. But it has, and as we navigate the days and weeks ahead, we here at Feast are dedicated to covering the impact the pandemic is having on our vast food-and-drink community.

This month’s Feast TV recipe for a flavorful grain bowl features many ingredients you most likely have on hand: eggs, honey, soy sauce and garlic. Plus, it’s easily adapted to be vegetarian or vegan by substituting pork with tempeh and omitting the eggs and honey.

Across the states of Missouri, Illinois and Kansas, folks in the food industry are adjusting to the new rules of social distancing, with some offering carryout and delivery options and many encouraging people to buy gift certificates as a small way to help buoy the bottom line through this uncertain time. Restaurants and bars are feeling the economic impact of these mandates and, as an extension, artisan food makers and farmers are deeply affected as well. When restaurants aren’t cooking for hungry patrons, they aren’t placing orders for ingredients. The impact of the COVID-19 pandemic is being felt in every corner of American society, but the impact on the food scene hits home in a personal way. Restaurants and bars are gathering places that bring communities together, and when they are empty, that hollowness rings throughout society.

Next month, we are scheduled to publish our Feast 50 readers’ choice poll results, and after much discussion, we have made the difficult decision to hold off on releasing that content until the current situation has normalized.

We felt that, frankly, it would be inappropriate to publish a celebration of our region’s best when just about everybody has had to close their doors or curtail service. While there won’t be a hard copy issue of Feast in May, we are not cutting back on our reporting. We will return with a print edition when shops and restaurants open their doors once again, something I know all of us are anxious to see happen.

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For now though, we are shifting our focus to enhancing our digital coverage, keeping you up to date on spots that are offering carryout and delivery with our new digital feature, Today’s Takeout, and serving up fresh recipes and cookbook suggestions to keep you occupied in the kitchen.

Feast is not going anywhere, I can assure you of that. We are all here and focused on giving you, our readers, the best information possible on the food and drink industry and supporting the industry through in-depth coverage.

There’s collective anxiety about how all of this is going to play out from a social and economic perspective. We hope to be a resource for valuable information as things evolve in our region. Please reach out to me or to our editor-in-chief, Heather Riske (editor@feastmagazine.com), with any suggestions for how we can best serve you as well as our culinary family in the days ahead.

Catherine Neville

publisher@feastmagazine.com

Fr om ha nd s- on co ok in g s cl as se s to de li ci ou an pl , ts en ev ta st in g th e mo nt hs ah ea d w it h fe as t

CALENDAR

Editor's Note: As of our March press deadline, all of these events were scheduled

to take place. With the outbreak of COVID-19, many events are being rescheduled; please confirm details directly with the host.

mo | 6/5-6/7 BBQ, Bikes & Blues Fri., June 5 to Sun., June 7; $12 to $15; 317 W. Main St., Washington, Missouri; downtownwashmo.org

Downtown Washington, Inc. is proud to present the 2020 BBQ, Bikes & Blues event. Enjoy live blues music and delicious samples all weekend long, and Sat., June 6 is the 12th annual barbecue competition, sanctioned by the Kansas City Barbeque Society.

Stl | 7/19 Taste and Toast: St. Louis Sun., July 19, 2 to 5pm; Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis;999 N. Second St., St. Louis, Missouri; tixtoparty.com/e/taste-toast-st-louis-2020

Come celebrate the St. Louis Feast 50 winners of 2020! Sample bites and beverages from the best food and drink establishments in the city.

and in celebration of Giving $200k back to StL! / a pr i l 2 02 0

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episode: midwest meat

revisit some of our favorite spots in the best of season and get a taste of our all-new recipes!

Pork Tenderloin Grain Bowl yields 4 bowls 3 2 1 2 2 1 2 1 3 4 ½ 1 1 1

recipe by Catherine Neville

Tbsp soy sauce tsp chile oil (or more to taste) Tbsp minced ginger cloves garlic, minced Tbsp honey (dark if possible) Tbsp mirin Tbsp rice wine vinegar pork tenderloin (approximately 1½ lbs) cups cooked farro, brown rice or other nutty whole grain soft-boiled eggs, halved lb shiitake mushrooms, sliced and sautéed lb spinach, Swiss chard or other dark leafy green, sautéed red onion, julienned and caramelized bunch scallions, thinly sliced, for garnish cilantro, for garnish sesame oil, to serve

/ preparation / In a casserole or other deep, wide dish,

combine soy sauce, chile oil, ginger, garlic, honey, mirin and vinegar; taste and adjust seasoning. Thinly slice pork into ¼-inch medallions: add to marinade and turn to coat. Allow pork to marinate at room temperature, 15 minutes.

Heat a skillet over medium heat. Add enough pork to form a single layer, along with some of the marinade; cook, 4 to 5 minutes per side or until cooked through. Remove from skillet.

The Midwest loves its meat, and in this “best of” episode, host Cat Neville introduces us to Buttonwood

Repeat with remaining pork. Once all pork is cooked, reserve in

Farm’s pasture-raised chickens and turkeys. Then, she heads to Trimble, Missouri, to meet the Fantasma

a warm spot until ready to serve.

family and tour Paradise Locker Meats, their business devoted to the humane slaughtering of animals.

Next up, she visits 17th Street Barbecue in Murphysboro, Illinois, to chat with Mike Mills about his world-famous ‘cue. And finally, she stops by the American Royal to get inside the judging process at the cutthroat competition. Throughout the episode, Cat will show us how to use local pork in a savory grain bowl.

In a bowl, add a healthy dose of whole grain. Evenly divide pork, egg, mushrooms, greens and onion on top. Garnish with scallion and cilantro; drizzle with sesame oil. Serve alongside additional chile oil.

check your local listings to watch feast tv on these networks:

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PROMOTI ON

Peas get spring — and good health — rolling SPONSORED CONTENT BY KATHERINE LEWIS

GARDEN PEAS When you picture peas in a pod, it’s probably garden peas that come to mind (also known as sweet peas or English peas). Unlike snow peas and snap peas, garden peas’ pods are tough and inedible.

Shelling them is labor intensive — that’s why most people buy them canned — but devotees swear there’s nothing like plucking a sweet pea straight from the garden. Fresh, frozen or canned, they bring plenty of nutritional benefits, including folate, protein and vitamins C and B1.

Peas are favorites of gardeners who just can’t wait to

“A diet high in quality proteins can have a lot of positive

get growing. In fact, peas can be planted as soon as the

effects on your health — from helping you lose weight

ground has thawed, meaning they’re one of the first

and improving strength to keeping your immune system

vegetables to be harvested in springtime. Planting peas

strong,” Dr. Toriola says. Peas are also brimming with

also stabilizes nitrogen levels in the soil, which benefits

vitamin A, a compound that is key to maintaining vision

neighboring plants.

and immune function. Just one cup of them contains

For all the good they do in the garden, they work even

almost 70 percent of the

greater magic in the body. “Research studies have

recommended daily intake.

demonstrated that peas and its constituents play a role in maintaining cardiovascular and gastrointestinal

“With other vitamins and

health and in reducing glycemic index,” says Dr. Adetunji

minerals, nutrients like

T. Toriola, a Washington University associate professor

thiamine, folate, potassium,

of surgery at Siteman Cancer Center. They’re also a

magnesium, manganese and

boon for metabolic health.

iron, peas are a great choice for your health,” Dr. Toriola says.

Dr. Adetunji T. Toriola Washington University associate professor of surgery at Siteman Cancer Center PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

Peas are filled with fiber and protein, helping you feel fuller

SNAP PEAS When researchers wanted to find an easier way to grow finicky snow peas, they crossed them with easygoing garden peas, and snap peas were born.

They were an immediate hit with farmers and the public alike. The bright and delicate flavor of snap peas (also called sugar snap peas) shines brightest when they’re eaten raw or grilled briefly over very high heat. They pair especially well with light cheeses such as chèvre and ricotta.

for longer. Getting protein from plants helps lower bad (LDL) cholesterol and keeps the heart healthy.

in good taste PRESENTED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

Snow Pea Stir-Fry YIELDS | 4 •1 Tbsp low sodium soy sauce •1 Tbsp water •1 tsp cornstarch •2 Tbsp sesame oil

EDAMAME Not long ago these soybeans were hard to find outside of specialt y markets and sushi restaurants, but today they ’re ever y where, marketed as af fordable, high-protein snacks.

Though they of ten come prepackaged, raw edamame of fers a chance to be creative.

Tr y dusting the pods with Parmesan and garlic or salt and vinegar for an inventive take.

•6 ounce bag snow peas, trimmed (see below) •1 red bell pepper, cut into thin slices •red pepper flakes (optional) •juice from 1 lime

•1 lb chicken breasts, sliced into thin, bite-size pieces

•¾ tsp salt

•2 Tbsp ginger, minced

•½ tsp pepper

•3 cloves garlic, minced

•½ cup cilantro, chopped

SNOW PEAS

•4 green onions, sliced thin, green and white parts separated PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

| Preparation | In a small bowl, use a whisk to mix soy sauce, water and cornstarch together. Set aside. Prepare all vegetables and chicken. To trim snow peas, remove the end with your finger. This will be attached to a string that runs the length of the pod. Remove this string as well. Heat a large skillet over high heat. Add 1 Tbsp of sesame oil. Be sure to coat the entire pan. Add chicken and cook 3 to 4 minutes until nearly cooked through. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from skillet onto a plate.

Add the remaining 1 Tbsp sesame oil and heat over medium-high heat. Add the ginger and sauté for about 2 minutes. Then add garlic and bottoms (white parts) of green onions and sauté for another minute or so. Add the snow peas and bell pepper.

Sauté for about 4 to 5 minutes or until they start to soften. Place the chicken back into the skillet along with the soy sauce mixture from earlier. Stir until sauce has thickened and chicken has cooked completely through. Add remaining green onions and season with red pepper flakes and lime juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Top with cilantro. Serve with rice for a complete dish!

Thin, flat and nearly translucent, snow peas might not impart much flavor, but their texture enlivens salads and stir-fry. (In fact, they’re so ubiquitous in stir-fry that they’re sometimes called Chinese pea pods.) Snow peas are harvested before they’ve fully matured, which results in a mild taste. Peel the stringy fiber away from the top seam before eating.

/ a pr i l 2 02 0

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PROMOTI ON

Spring FESTIVALS & EVENTS

I

April

thru

June

kimmswick, mo | food + beverage

FESTIVALS IN KIMMSWICK Weekends in April through June, times vary

Visit Kimmswick, Missouri, (gokimmswick.com; 636.464.6464) this spring for events like HAPPY TAILS PET FEST on April 25, MOTHER'S DAY WEEKEND on May 9 and 10, the STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL on June 6 and 7 and the FATHER'S DAY CAR SHOW on June 21. Kimmswick also houses 28 unique shops, quaint restaurants, a winery and a charming inn. Kimmswick is just 25 minutes south of St. Louis along I-55.

EDITED BY AUBREY BYRON

t's been a long, cold winter season, and now, it's finally time to step outside to embrace the springtime. Soak up the sunshine with the best festivals and events happening in the region.

Sip wine pours on a patio to the beat of live music, taste Kansas City-style barbecue or enjoy a weekend of art in the Sculpture Park.

If you've been experiencing cabin fever these past few months – the cure is here! Get outdoors and celebrate your local community at these street festivals, events and gatherings.

May

thru

June

st. louis | food + beverage

2020 YOUNG FRIENDS EVENTS May through June

Join YOUNG FRIENDS (opera-stl.org/season-and-events/young-friends-events) for an exclusive reception an hour and a half before each Opera Theatre of St. Louis performance in a reserved tent in the gardens. Enjoy catering by Ces and Judy’s and wine and beer, as well as performances and specialty cocktails by The Spirits of St. Louis. Young Friends is open to anyone 45 years of age or younger. Tickets are $49 per person or purchase a “Pick Two… or More” pass starting at $79.

%PG feastmagazine.com ja n ua ry 10 feastmagazine.com / a pr i l 2 0 2 0

2019

May

thru

Nov

ste. genevieve, mo | beverage

LIVE MUSIC AT CHAUMETTE May through Novemeber

Pair live music with award-winning wine and delectable, farm-to-table food this summer at CHAUMETTE VINEYARDS & WINERY (chaumette.com, 573.747.1000).

Escape the noise of the city, and treat your senses to an unforgettable experience nestled in the serene majesty of Ste. Genevieve wine country. Make your time here perfect by staying in one of our elegant villas amidst the pristine vineyards.

PROMOTI ON

May 8-10

st. louis, mo | food

33RD ANNUAL ART FAIR Fri. through Sun. May 8 to 10

St. Louis’ favorite Mother’s Day weekend tradition features local food and beverage vendors, hands-on activities for kids, live music and up to 150 juried artists from across the country. Join Laumeier Sculpture Park for the 33RD ANNUAL ART FAIR (laumeiersculpturepark.org/art-fair) presented by Emerson on Fri., May 8 from 6 to 10pm, Sat., May 9 from 10am to 8pm and Sun., May 10 from 10am to 5pm. Tickets are $10 and free for Laumeier members and children 10 and under.

port washington, wi | food May STREET FESTIVAL 24 COMMUNITY Sat., May24, noon to 5pm Join in kicking off the festival season in Port Washington, on Lake Michigan north of Milwaukee. On Sun., May 24, they close the street and throw a party. COMMUNITY STREET FESTIVAL (visitportwashington.com) features music, food and drink specials, in-store sales and more. And June 5 to 7 is the annual Pirate Fest! Grab your parrot and your eyepatch and head to the lakefront!

May 15-17

washington, mo | beverage

ART FAIR & WINEFEST Fri., May 15 to Sun., May 17

Downtown Washington, Inc. invites you to visit Washington, Missouri, for the 39TH ANNUAL ARTFAIR &WINEFEST(downtownwashmo.org,636.239.1743). Join for a weekend of live music and a full food court, along with wine from up to 15 Missouri wineries. The wine tasting will take place under the Farmers' Market pavilion, and wine will be sold by the glass and bottle all weekend long! Sunday afternoon hosts Sip and Savor Sunday, where participating wineries pair with local restaurants to prepare specialized wine and food pairings.

June 5-7

washington, mo | food

BBQ, BIKES & BLUES Fri., June 5, 5pm to Sun. June 7, 4pm

Downtown Washington, Inc. is proud to present the 2020 WashMO BBQ, BIKES & BLUES (downtownwashmo.org)! Join the festivities on Sat., June 6 for the People's Choice Tasting where you can taste barbecue from up to 50 Kansas City BBQ Society-certified barbecue teams from across the country. Enjoy live Blues music, a full food court, vendors and live food demos all weekend long in historic downtown Washington.

Inspired Local Food Culture

j a nu a ry 2 019 / a pr i l 2 02 0

%PG 11

Springfield, MO

PROMOTION

CLASSIC

Red’s Giant Hamburg is revived from the classic post-World War II burger stand on Route 66. The beloved restaurant served burgers for decades until it closed its doors in 1984. Now those classic burgers and nostalgia are back on the menu in a new restaurant that tips its hat to the past.

RESTAURANTS

1

BY AUBREY BYRON

Springfield, Missouri is home to classic restaurants like Casper’s, Red’s Giant Hamburg and Leong’s Asian Diner.

With over 1,000 restaurants, dining in Springfield offers everything from fine dining to fast-casual. But these classics have people coming back year after year.

2 Leong’s Asian Diner has a long history of serving up timehonored culinary dishes to the Springfield community in a new and exciting way. On the menu, look no further than the famous Springfield-style cashew chicken, which many credit to Mr. David Leong himself.

Casper’s is the oldest diner in Springfield. Located on historic Walnut St., it is beloved for its house chili recipe, old-fashioned steak burger, malts and homemade desserts. This classic has been keeping customers fed and happy since 1909.

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3

Go Out DINE & DRINK

/

SHOP HERE

/

HOT BLOCKS

/

HOMETOWN HITS

▪ st. louis

The Tenderloin Room Written by Kasey Carlson / photography by j. pollack photography

Opened in 1962, The Tenderloin Room at The Chase Park Plaza is an established St. Louis restaurant, but thanks to a recent revamp courtesy of its new owners – including Bob Brazell of Byrd & Barrel and Tamm Avenue Bar fame – it isn’t stuck in the past. The menu still boasts impressive cuts of meat, such as the signature Pepperloin a la Tenderloin, but they’ll soon be upgraded by a dry-age chamber that the restaurant plans to add to its arsenal. Designed with residents of The Chase in mind, the new bar menu offers smaller, decadent bites such as twice-baked seafood dip, escargot-stuffed mushrooms in a white wine-lemon-herb butter and bone marrow served with a parsley-fennel salad and charred citrus vinaigrette.

232 Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri, tenderloinroom.com

Pepperloin a la Tenderloin

Editor’s Note: This issue of Feast went into production in mid-March at the height of the COVID-19 pandemic. As of our press deadline, local restaurants and bars were required to close for dine-in service to comply with the CDC’s recommendations on social distancing. For updates, please contact restaurants directly. / a pr i l 2 02 0

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DINE & DRINK

/

SHOP HERE

/

HOT BLOCKS

/

HOMETOWN HITS

◀ KANSAS CITY

Grad School Written by Jenny Vergara photography by alistair tutton

Owner Danny Schlink has made the most of the small footprint left behind by Coda Bar in Kansas City’s Crossroads Arts District to create the second location of his collegiatethemed canteen Grad School – the first location opened almost 12 years ago in Springfield, Missouri. The restaurant’s compact menu features salads, sandwiches, tacos, burritos, pasta and three chicken dishes, including the world-famous Springfield-style cashew chicken. But the Full Ride burger is arguably the best choice: Comprised of two beef patties, bacon, sharp Cheddar cheese, caramelized onion, lettuce and tomato with a side of hand-cut fries, it’s served fast and with a smile. The canned beer list includes domestic and imported tallboys alongside local and regional beers, canned wines, ciders and spiked seltzers.

1744 Broadway Blvd., Kansas City, Missouri, facebook.com/pages/ category/American-Restaurant/ Grad-School-KC-463295004483077

▶ COLUMBIA, MO.

Sagua La Grande Cuban Cafe Written by Jessica Vaughn Martin / photography by sam o'keefe

Katy Ugalde and her husband, Greg Butler, bring Cuban flavor to Columbia, Missouri, with their downtown restaurant, Sagua La Grande Cuban Cafe. Named after Ugalde’s hometown on the island nation, the city’s first Cuban café dishes out staples such as ropa vieja. Rustic and humble, the national dish of Cuba comprises tender shreds of beef, bell pepper and onion smothered in a savory tomato sauce and plated with black beans and rice.

Open for lunch and dinner, the restaurant’s other house specials include arroz con pollo, chuletas de puerco (pork chops marinated in mojo criollo, a traditional Cuban spiced citrus marinade) and, for dessert, pudin de pan coco (coconut bread pudding) and, occasionally, the irresistible guava cheesecake.

114 S. Ninth St., Suite 101, Columbia, Missouri, sagualagrandecomo.com

ropa vieja

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▲ st. louis

Re-Voaked Sandwiches Story and photography by Mabel Suen

St. Louis’ Central West End neighborhood has a new one-stop shop for chef-inspired sandwiches. Re-Voaked Sandwiches fires its assortment of sammies in a pizza deck oven to give them a toasty exterior; best-sellers include the Basic As Cluck featuring chipotle chicken, bacon, Provolone and ranch and the bánh mì with pork belly, carrot, cucumber, jalapeño-onion chutney and lime aïoli. The fast-casual concept comes from chef Stephan Ledbetter, who says his personal favorite is the People & Their Pesto: tomato, burrata, basil pesto, spinach and red onion between two slices of warm bread. Gluten-free bread is also available for any sandwich.

12 S. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, revoaked.com

▶ ALBANY, MO.

Hughes Bar X Ranch Written by Kasey Carlson / photography by Heather Berry for Rural Missouri magazine

From a refurbished nursing home in Albany, Missouri, Charmayne Hughes is bringing high-end dining to Gentry County – while simultaneously rebuilding her life. Hughes Bar X Ranch was originally located in Denver, Missouri, where Hughes served loyal customers for 13 years. Tragically, the restaurant burned down on Easter Sunday in 2007, and it wasn’t until after her husband died in 2016 that Hughes decided to get back into the business. She reopened Hughes Bar X Ranch in its new location in 2018. Despite the hiatus, it’s still offering the succulent thick-cut prime rib, along with other steakhouse classics such as Kansas City strip steak, beef tenderloin and shrimp cocktail. Back in Denver, Hughes’ food was so well-loved – and she received so many requests for her recipes – that she created a cookbook, which sold almost 5,000 copies. The quality of her dishes hasn’t decreased, making a trip here worth your time.

1405 E. U.S. Highway 136, Albany, Missouri

▼ COLUMBIA, MO.

PaPPo’s Pizzeria & Pub Written by Jessica Vaughn Martin / photography by notley hawkins

Late last year, the south side of Columbia, Missouri, welcomed a new pizza joint – but pizza isn’t the only specialty at PaPPo’s Pizzeria & Pub. The eatery also serves Italian classics such as insalata caprese, hand-rolled meatballs, eggplant Parmesan and calzones, alongside St. Louis-style toasted ravioli and a lineup of frothy local beers. PaPPo’s offers a long list of crusts, sauces, meats, cheeses, veggies and herbs to build your own pie, but if you find yourself suffering from decision fatigue, there’s no shame in ordering a refined favorite such as the apple-bourbon pulled pork pizza topped with housemade barbecue sauce.

10 W. Nifong Blvd., Columbia, Missouri, pappospizzeria.com

▲ KANSAS CITY

Mickey’s Hideaway Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by alistair tutton

For 22 years, James Westphal and Mark Kelpe, owners of BeerKC Restaurant Group, have been pioneers in Kansas City’s Westport entertainment area. After finding success with their restaurants Beer Kitchen and Char Bar, they decided to reimagine their original brewery concept, McCoy’s. Now a sleek, modern roadhouse called Mickey’s Hideaway, the remodeled space boasts a stylish bar and a lounge complete with leather sofas, a fireplace and a gold felt-topped pool table. Under the creative eye of BeerKC corporate chef Michael Peterson, the new food menu is fresh and shareable,

with an impressive selection of snacks, plant-based dishes, Detroit-style pizza and more. Try the Pokemon Fry – waffle-cut sweet potato fries topped with Korean short ribs, housemade kimchi and kewpie mayonnaise – or a daily special such as hand-rolled pasta and brown butter lobster rolls (served on Thursday and Friday, respectively). Besides beer, wine and spirits, Mickey’s Hideaway also offers zero-proof options, including locally made Polly’s Pop. 4057 Pennsylvania Ave., Kansas City, Missouri, mickeyskc.com / a pr i l 2 02 0

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◀ KANSAS CITY

Browne’s Irish Marketplace Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by zach bauman

Open since 1887, Browne’s Irish Marketplace in Kansas City stocks a variety of packaged imports from Ireland, such as Irish soda bread mix, Irish tea, jam and black and white pudding (popular meats not to be confused with the American dessert), alongside beer and liquor. Around lunchtime, fresh sandwiches, soups and salads attract crowds at the deli counter, and oak floors and the aroma of freshly baked goods, such as brown bread and Irish cream brownies (available around St. Patrick’s Day), still create a homey atmosphere after all these years.

Try the creamy Irish potato soup, corned beef Reuben or the Dublin – a sandwich that combines Browne’s famous egg salad with its tuna salad on your choice of bread – for an authentic taste of the Emerald Isle. Fourth-generation owner Kerry Browne and her husband, John McClain, maintain the market’s Irish charm: 133 years on, Browne’s remains a social hub for the city’s Irish community and other residents alike.

3300 Pennsylvania Ave., Kansas City, Missouri, brownesirishmarket.com

Irish Whiskey Irish whiskey is such a big ticket item that Browne’s

Traditional

irish items from

Browne’s Irish Marketplace 16

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purchases a barrel’s worth at a time directly from

Soda Bread

the distilleries. You’ll find

Instant bread mixes are available in various

Rashers and Bangers

more than 50 bottles of

flavors, but Browne’s also sells its own loaves

Breakfast in Ireland isn’t complete without

Irish whiskey for sale, from

of sweet, dense, raisin-laden soda bread. It’s

Irish bacon and pork sausage, known as

Jameson to Knappogue

made on-site weekly and then frozen. After it’s

rashers and bangers, respectively. Browne’s

Castle to Glendalough, and

thawed, enjoy it with your morning cup of tea or

stocks some of the best – made by

the market hosts several

use it to sop up a hearty lunch or dinner.

Winston’s Sausage in Chicago.

classes and tastings a year.

ONE ON ONE

ONE on

/

st. louis

with Andy Karandzieff, owner, Crown Candy Kitchen 3

must-try treats at

crown candy kitchen

heart-stopping blt

Thick-sliced, crispy bacon is piled high on white toast. Topped with lettuce, tomato and Miracle Whip, the whole sandwich is more than your mouth can handle, and customers love it.

Written by Rachel Huffman / photography by shawn robbins

From the striped awning and wooden booths to the Coca-Cola collectibles, vintage soda fountain and tantalizing candy case, not much has changed at Crown Candy Kitchen since it opened in 1913. But that’s the beauty of it, says owner Andy Karandzieff.

After the turn of the 20th century, Karandzieff’s grandfather, Harry, emigrated from Greece to the U.S., bringing his impressive confectionary skills with him. He learned the language, worked different odd jobs and saved money until he was able to open Crown Candy with his friend Pete Jugaloff. Within a year, Harry became the sole owner of the shop, and he ran it until 1951, when his son, George, took over the business and built it into the treasured St. Louis institution that it is today. Now that Karandzieff is at the helm, he’s working to preserve his family’s legacy and continue to meet the high expectations of locals and visitors alike.

chocolate malt

Crown Candy Kitchen has been making its chocolate malt the same way for decades, using housemade chocolate

What does Crown Candy Kitchen mean to you?

I’ve been around this business my entire life – I’ve been here, doing some type of job, since I was 13 years old. It’s been the one constant in my life: getting up, coming to work and doing the job, whatever that may be. We’ve been on this corner in this building for 107 years now.

My grandfather bought the building in the early 1920s, and for the most part, a member of our family has always lived on the premises.

It takes a lot of TLC to keep the building from falling down around us, but this is our home; this is where we belong. This is part of who we are, and why, I think, we’re still successful is because people can come back and recognize the [place].

They can say, this is where my grandparents met, or this is where your dad threw me out for banging on the pinball machine too hard, or my first job was waiting tables here. Those stories are amazing to hear. It makes me feel good that people are still coming down to support us, and we’re still here for them.

Today, what does Crown Candy Kitchen bring to the St. Louis restaurant scene? It shows that you don’t have to be the newest, shiniest, most creative thing out there. You can still give people a good, simple product at a good price and be successful. If you know what you’re doing and you take care of your customers, it doesn’t have to be fancy; it just has to be consistent. People ask why I don’t expand, but you know what? I’m going to take care of my little corner of the world. That’s enough for me.

I’m happy right where I am, doing what we do.

What does the future look like for Crown Candy Kitchen? I didn’t think about that for a lot of years … and I hate to say these things out loud, but – knock on wood – I’m healthy. I can still work a 12- to 15-hour day, six or seven days in a row if I have to. So, I’m going to just keep doing this because I can’t imagine not doing this. Unfortunately, there’s no one in the family that wants to [take over the business],

and I don’t begrudge any of them. This is a hard business, and you’ve got to have a passion for it. There are days that are positively great, when you’re riding that high, and then there are days when you think, “What else can go wrong?” I do have a couple young people who have been with me for a fair amount of time; I look at them and a couple of them have what it takes to do the work – to put in the long hours and to ride the highs and lows. Hopefully, they’ll be our future. I can’t imagine closing the store – I can’t let that happen. People say nothing lasts forever, and that’s true, but I’m going to try as hard as I can to make this last as long as it can. I feel that immense pressure every day. But right now, I don’t have a retirement plan; I have no exit plan. Maybe you’ll just find me face down in a puddle of chocolate one day.

1401 St. Louis Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, crowncandykitchen.net

syrup, first-rate vanilla ice cream, a blend of cocoas, just the right amount of sugar and a touch of vanilla.

chocolate bunnies

Available after Ash Wednesday until they're gone, the chocolate bunnies are still hand-poured by Karandzieff and his wife, Sherri, who produce between 8,000 and 9,000 a year. / a pr i l 2 02 0

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DINE & DRINK

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HOMETOWN HITS

For decades, The Hill has served as St. Louis’ own Little Italy – trattorias line each block, fire hydrants are painted green, white and red and you’re never too far from a plate of toasted ravioli. Thanks to dozens of Italian delis, bakeries, grocers and mom-and-pop restaurants, it’s become a tourist attraction in its own right. These spots just begin to scratch the surface of the historic, tight-knit neighborhood –

st. louis

for more of our favorite places on The Hill, visit feastmagazine.com. –heather riske

photography by george mitchell

1. Gioia’s Deli

2. Milo’s Bocce Garden

3. Missouri Baking Co.

4. Rigazzi’s

Gioia’s Deli now boasts three locations in the St. Louis area, but it all started on The Hill in 1918.

Sixty-two years later, the Donley family bought the beloved sandwich shop, and they haven’t changed much since – the famous hot salami sandwich (sonamed for its temperature, not spice level) is still made from the same secret recipe. What’s more, in 2017, the James Beard Foundation honored Gioia’s with an America’s Classics award.

The building on the corner of Wilson and Marconi that houses Milo’s Bocce Garden has lived a lot of lives over the years, but it’s long served as the unofficial watering hole of The Hill. Inside, the beloved neighborhood tavern plates up classic American-Italian fare such as toasted ravioli, spaghetti with meatballs and pizza. Wash it down with a frosty pint of Bud and then head outside to show off your skills on the bocce court.

Missouri Baking Co. is an institution. Since 1924, the storied bakery has been offering from-scratch treats, from classic cookies, cakes and pies to traditional Italian desserts, including pannetone, tiramisu, cannoli and four types of biscotti. Don’t miss the cuccidati, an Italian fig-stuffed cookie, and pasticiotti, a tart filled with almond pastry cream – just make sure to bring cash.

Slurping down an ice-cold 32-ounce fishbowl of beer at Rigazzi’s is a rite of passage for St. Louisans. The restaurant’s tables are covered with red-and-white checkered tablecloths, and the menu boasts St. Louis-style pizza, veal Parmesan, the famous Eggplant Stack and, naturally, toasted ravioli. Founded in 1957, it’s the oldest restaurant on The Hill and, even more remarkably, is still owned by the Aiazzi (pronounced “Ozzie”) family.

1934 Macklind Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, gioiasdeli.com

5201 Wilson Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, milosboccegarden.com

2027 Edwards St., St. Louis, Missouri, facebook.com/The-Missouri-BakingCompany-304406429586958

4945 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, rigazzis.com

5. DiGregorio’s Italian Market

6. Gian-Tony’s Ristorante

If you’re shopping for stuffed pasta, cured meats, cheese, Arborio rice, extra-virgin olive oil or other Italian pantry staples, chances are you can find it at DiGregorio’s Italian Market.

The shop has been a go-to for specialties from the motherland for almost 50 years, and it also offers its own house label of olive oil, vinegar, pasta sauce and dressing.

After decades, chef Tony Catarinicchia is still in the kitchen at Gian-Tony’s Ristorante, which opened on The Hill in 1989. The restaurant specializes in southern Italian cuisine made from family recipes brought over from Sicily – expect a large selection of pastas, veal dishes and a standout tiramisu. Located catty-corner from Berra Park, the sidewalk tables are a prime spot for people-watching.

5200 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, digregoriofoods.com

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5356 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, gian-tonys.com

ONE ON ONE /

kansas city

with Joe West, executive chef, The Savoy at 21c

ONE on

Written by Natalie Gallagher / photography by alistair tutton

In July 2018, 21c Museum Hotels, the award-winning Louisville-based combination contemporary art museum and boutique hotel chain, opened its eighth property, which includes The Savoy, in downtown Kansas City. Housed in the iconic Savoy building – where the original Savoy Grill opened in 1903 – the restored and reimagined restaurant and lounge space highlights the building’s historical elements while bringing new life and energy to a place known for such famous patrons as Theodore Roosevelt, William Howard Taft, John D. Rockefeller and Harry S. Truman. Lauded local chef Joe West was tapped to steer the menu. Initially, he drew on The Savoy’s classic dishes for inspiration, but within a year, after reevaluating the message his menu was sending, he began incorporating more contemporary American cuisine. In his own ingenious way, West plans to carry on the legacy of The Savoy while embracing all that Missouri has to offer today.

The Savoy is historic – presidents have dined here! What is it like to be at the helm of a restaurant with such a storied past?

They saved a lot of things from the old Savoy [such as] menus and advertisements – I kept a box of old recipe cards. Seeing the verbiage from old menus and reading how lobster might only cost five bucks was fun. [But] some of the classic dishes The Savoy was serving, even right before 21c took over, were outdated. …

I didn’t want to be a typical hotel restaurant, where we’d serve these typical dishes without any heart or intent to make them better. … I look at the space now and the bar is flowing, and it’s sexy and sophisticated, but there are also some components of the restaurant that are rustic and storied – there’s a lot going on.

What inspired The Savoy’s new menu? I came in looking for dishes like Steak Diane and Lobster Newburg and Crab Louie salad – symbols of [a certain] era. I wanted people to be really excited by them and think of them as being so old, they’re new again. … I didn’t

Today, what message does the menu send? This menu is more like a story of what the Midwest has become. I feel like the food that we eat in the Midwest has shifted: It’s not just steak and potatoes and apple pie anymore. We have a lot more influences around us, and we pull influences from all across the country. … There are diverse populations and everyone has their own point of view. …

[In Kansas City], I grew up eating tuna casserole and Hamburger Helper and going out to eat at Olive Garden, but my mom [who is Japanese] would also cook Japanese food, and I traveled to Japan a couple times when I was younger. Going to Asian markets was something I did weekly with my mom. The menu that we have now reflects some of those personal stories. There’s a lot of Asian influence in the menu – I’ve embraced the things I’ve learned and experienced. I also want to incorporate the viewpoints from the rest of my team: My chef de cuisine, Nick [Vella], spent several years cooking in New Orleans, and he brings a lot of that cuisine to the kitchen. We take a lot of things into consideration. Seasonality is the most important part of the menu, and how we represent the Midwest in a unique way.

219 W. Ninth St., Kansas City, Missouri, thesavoykc.com

t - tr y di s

the savoy at 21 c

s

at

he

s mu

want to do twists on anything; I wanted it to be, like, the purest form of Lobster Newburg. But we didn’t get the feedback I was expecting from that. Either people didn’t recognize them because they’d never heard of those dishes, or they’d had those dishes in the past and they didn’t taste the same. It was frustrating to get that feedback because we were putting so much effort into every little thing. That’s when I decided to just start cooking food in real time.

I started talking about how we feel nowadays and what we want to eat now and what sounds good. That’s when the transformation started – less than a year in.

The Campo Lindo Farm Hen features fried chicken roulade plated with McKaskle Family Farm grits and kale or collard greens cooked with bacon, vinegar, wine and lemon. Everything is served

West is proud of his cheeseburger: a seasoned, dry-aged

For the escargot tortelloni, escargot is

with potlikker sauce – a reduction

beef patty with crispy edges and evenly distributed

cooked in Maître d’Hôtel butter, wrapped in

of the cooking liquid from those

cheese in between an expertly toasted bun. He says it’s

pasta and coated in a vermouth-butter sauce.

greens mixed with chicken stock –

the dish he obsesses over the most. “It has to be perfect

One of West’s favorites, he says that when

and a sunny-side-up Campo Lindo

because if people have a burger and it’s not good, how

you bite into the tortelloni, you experience

Farms brown egg on top.

will they trust us to cook their $28 entrée next time?”

what escargot is meant to taste like. / a pr i l 2 02 0

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▼ STE. GENEVIEVE, MO.

Old Brick House

These three delicious destinations are under the radar – but should be on yours.

Written by Kasey Carlson / photography by darin williams

The oldest brick building west of the Mississippi River was built in Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, in 1785. Since then, it has been a residence, a courthouse and a school, but its most recent iteration is the American restaurant Old Brick House, which has become a town staple after decades of service. The fried chicken is a fan favorite, but if you’re especially hungry, try the famous 40-ounce steak – it can feed up to four people, but it’s fine if you want to tackle it all by yourself.

90 S. Third St., Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, facebook.com/pages/Old-Brick-House/282491555254492

▼ UNION, MO.

Union native and current owner Dana Robinson

White Rose Café

worked as a server at the restaurant for 17 years before buying the business three years ago. She says that the from-scratch biscuits and gravy fly out of the kitchen for breakfast, but patrons also love the “really mean” burger. Stop in on a Wednesday for housemade meatloaf or a Friday night for fresh fried chicken.

Written by Kasey Carlson

▲ INDEPENDENCE, MO.

Dixon’s “Famous” Chili Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by amber deery

A downtown street cart turned chili joint, Dixon’s Chili Parlor was a favorite of Harry S. Truman’s before, during and after his presidency – in fact, after LIFE Magazine published a photo of him eating at the restaurant surrounded by Secret Service agents, it was renamed Dixon’s “Famous” Chili. Founder Vergne Dixon opened the first brick-and-mortar location in 1919. Today, the second and only remaining location is a charming red and white diner in Independence, Missouri, which still serves chili just the way you like it: juicy, soupy or dry, with whatever fixin’s you want. Just don’t ask for ketchup: Dixon swore his chili was excellent without it, and though the “no ketchup” policy is less strict now, the restaurant does charge a 10-cent fine for the stuff (to not completely break from tradition). After more than 100 years of service, Dixon’s “Famous” Chili has stayed in the family; Dixon’s great-niece Terri Totta-Smith proudly runs it with her son, Stephen Steffes.

9105 E. U.S. Highway 40, Independence, Missouri, dixonschili.com

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photography by curt dennison

Wholesome and hearty home-style food defines the menu at White Rose Café in Union, Missouri.

A downtown landmark since 1932, it was originally part of the White Rose gas station chain and eventually sold burgers too.

208 E. Main St., Union, Missouri, whiteroseunion.com

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

columbia, mo.

with Scott Cleeton, owner, CC’s City Broiler Written by Jessica Vaughn Martin photography by aaron ottis

Must-Try Dishes at

CC’s City Broiler

Neither the day of the week nor the weather can deter diners from lining up outside of CC’s City Broiler before doors open at 5pm.

The beloved Columbia, Missouri, institution – which doesn’t take reservations – prides itself on its exceptional steaks, flown-in fresh seafood and impeccable service, which you don’t need a special occasion to enjoy. Owner Scott Cleeton has endeavored to offer his guests more than just a pretty plate since the restaurant’s inception 25 years ago. “From day one, we’ve had this idea that we’re not in a position to just sell food to people; it’s more of an experience,” he says.

tuna

"stack"

In this dish, blackened, medium-rare tuna steak is served over lobster mashed potatoes and plated with pickled ginger, wasabi cream and sweet chile glaze.

the aunt jackie

CC’s signature dish, The Aunt Jackie, includes a petite filet and broiled cold-water lobster tail – because you deserve the best of both land and sea.

“I mean, c’mon. If you’re going to celebrate, what better treat?” asks Cleeton.

Describe the CC’s experience. It’s hard for me to classify CC’s as fine dining because we’re steak and potatoes – we just do it in a more upscale way. But steakhouses, in general, can be a bit upscale: Years ago, when steakhouses were created, just the idea of having steak on the table meant [a] celebration for most people – because it was expensive.

I liken [CC’s] to a band. You can create new songs all the time, but once you establish your greatest hits album, people come to hear the hits.

But we do create “new” all the time, [at least] we try to. Maybe we put a twist on things to make them a little more contemporary, and we’re always on the lookout for better ingredients and better quality stuff. But we’re not that kind of place that follows fads.

How has CC’s evolved since it opened in 1995? We’ve grown a lot.

Speaking to the creative part of it, as people’s tastes became more sophisticated, we’ve created higher-end sauces: Now it’s all truffle butters and compound butters and truffle salts and different types of seasonings that are a little more exotic. More specifically, I think we’ve been able to evolve and grow because we’ve maintained a level of care for our guests that for other [establishments] comes and goes. … For us,

it’s always been, how can we blow the minds of these people tonight?

We focus on that.

In 2018, CC’s City Broiler expanded its business to include a butcher shop two doors down. What sparked that decision? We originally opened [CC’s Butcher Shop and Wine Bar] to sell some of our premium steaks, especially in the summertime, to folks who have their grills going and aren’t going to pay a visit to the restaurant because they’re going to cook at home. We still wanted to be a part of that celebration, so we expanded into that extra spot and started aging beef over there. In fact, those aged steaks became so popular at the restaurant, we haven’t been able to open the shop up as retail space. [Besides to wet-age beef], it’s become a great space for parties and events, and we use it as overflow seating, which works out great. We don’t have any plans, at least in the immediate future, to open to the public because frankly – and it’s a good thing – we can’t keep up with our own demand. My art teacher used to call that a happy accident, when you stand back and look at something and think, “Wow, that actually turned out really well.”

akaushi rib eye

Sourced exclusively from the only U.S. Akaushi herd, this wildly marbled cut (one hallmark of Wagyu beef) stands to become a CC’s classic. Known for its tenderness, the Akaushi rib eye isn’t on the menu, but it’s always available – now

1401 Forum Blvd., Columbia, Missouri, ccscitybroiler.com

you know to ask for it. / a pr i l 2 02 0

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PROMOTION

DEVELOPING A GENERATION OF HEALTHY KIDS At Schnucks, we believe that every kid in school deserves to learn the basics about food, where it comes from and how it affects their bodies. That is why

BLACKENED SALMON WRAP SERVES 4

our team of dietitians developed the Schnucks Healthy Kids Field Trip program.

12 oz fresh salmon, skinless

¼ cup sliced almonds, toasted

We are excited to offer field trips that are both fun and educational. Kids will

3 Tbsp Cajun seasoning

2 Tbsp blueberry pomegranate juice

explore the wonders of a supermarket, while also learning important life skills

2 Tbsp vegetable oil

1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar

that will help them develop healthier habits. As a dietitian myself, I know

3 cups lettuce

1 Tbsp honey

how important it is to teach kids about nutrition at a young age to equip

¾ cup mandarin oranges, drained

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

young minds with the skills necessary to make informed decisions in adulthood.

½ cup quartered strawberries

4 tortillas

Growing up on a farm I didn’t realize the life lessons I was learning about food.

PREPARATION

Understanding how food is grown and experiencing it firsthand, gives me a

Season salmon with Cajun seasoning. Heat vegetable oil in a skillet

unique perspective when educating kids about how food gets from the farm to the store to their fork. Spring is a good time of year to start teaching kids about how food is grown because that is when farmers are planting their crops and kicking off the growing season. Our field trips are offered all year long, so whether you are a parent, teacher or troop leader you can find more information about our field trips online at fieldtripfactory.com/schnucks.

When thinking about a recipe that both kids and adults would like as well as capture the essence of the season, nothing gets me more excited about spring than this Blackened Salmon Wrap. It looks beautiful, is packed with nutrition and is a creative way to get kids to eat more seafood. The Omega-3 fats found in salmon are important for developing brains and the combination of flavors make this a dish that is sure to please the whole family. So what are you waiting for? Try your hand at making these delicious wraps and sign up for a field trip today!

SPONSORED CONTENT BY KARA BEHLKE, REGISTERED DIETITIAN SCHNUCKS DIRECTOR OF HEALTH AND WELLNESS

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over medium-high heat and add salmon. Cook until a dark crust forms, about 3 minutes. Flip and continue to cook until salmon reaches an internal temperature of 145 degrees, 2-3 more minutes. Remove salmon from skillet and flake. Evenly divide flaked salmon, lettuce, mandarin oranges, strawberries and almonds among tortillas. Drizzle with dressing. Roll up and serve immediately.

Stay In SUGAR RUSH / HOW-TO / THE MIX + MIDWEST MADE / ON TREND / HEALTHY APPETITE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

There are many versions of how this classic Midwestern cake was invented, but one thing is for certain: Gooey butter cake originated in St. Louis. This recipe sticks to the more traditional style with a cookie-like crust and buttery center, which caramelizes beautifully during baking. Thick and gooey, this humble golden cake is made sweeter with a final dusting of powdered sugar.

Story, recipe and photography by Teresa Floyd, Food writer and recipe developer, now-forager.com

yields 24 bars Crust 1¾

1

3

1

½

1

½

cups all-purpose flour cup sugar Tbsp malted milk powder tsp baking powder tsp kosher salt large egg cup (1 stick), plus 2 Tbsp, unsalted butter, melted

Filling ¾

1½

½

1

2

3

1

cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature cups sugar tsp kosher salt large egg tsp vanilla extract Tbsp light corn syrup cup all-purpose flour powdered sugar, for dusting

pair with: Brandy

/ preparation – crust / Preheat oven to

350°F. Line a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with aluminum foil and lightly spray with nonstick cooking oil spray. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, malted milk powder, baking powder and salt. Add the egg and melted butter; stir to incorporate. Evenly press mixture into the bottom of the prepared baking pan. / preparation – filling / In the bowl of a stand mixer, with the paddle attachment, cream butter, sugar and salt until light and fluffy, 5 minutes.

Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add egg; mix until combined. Add vanilla extract, corn syrup and 2 tablespoons water; mix until combined. Add flour; mix on low until combined and smooth. / assembly / Using an offset spatula, evenly

spread the filling over the crust. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the edges and top are golden brown. Remove from oven and let cool completely.

Dust with powdered sugar, cut and serve.

PA I R IT!

This St. Louis staple needs a high-proof cocktail with a bit of acidity to cut through the richness of all that butter. I recommend a traditional Sidecar featuring Rocheport Distilling Co.’s newly released aged brandy made with Vidal Blanc grapes. Combine 1½ ounces brandy, ¾ ounce orange liqueur (I suggest Cointreau) and ¾ ounce lemon juice in a shaker tin with ice and shake. Strain into a sugar-rimmed coupe glass and garnish with a lemon twist. –Jenn Tosatto rocheportdistillingco.com

/ a pr i l 2 02 0

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SUGAR RUSH / HOW-TO / THE MIX + MIDWEST MADE / ON TREND / HEALTHY APPETITE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Hollandaise Sauce

From the first day of spring, I use Hollandaise sauce until I get sick of it – which, admittedly, is never. One of the five mother sauces in French cuisine, I have tried to make it using several different methods, but I always come back to the immersion blender approach. Not only is it easier than endlessly whisking the sauce by hand, but slowly adding the hot melted butter between the quickmoving blades almost guarantees a scramble-free outcome. story, recipe and photography by Julia Calleo, writer and recipe developer, mylavenderblues.com

This recipe yields 1 cu p of Hollandais e sauce.

In a saucepan over medium heat, melt ½ cup, plus 2 tablespoons, unsalted butter. Once butter begins to simmer, remove from heat.

In a large bowl, using an immersion blender, blend 5  egg yolks and 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice together.

Very slowly, add hot melted butter to yolk-lemon  juice mixture. Continue to use the immersion blender the entire time you’re pouring in the butter.

WIf you need to thin out the sauce before serving, whisk in warm water (one teaspoon at a time) until desired consistency is reached.

Once the sauce has thickened, forming a nice,  creamy consistency, stop blending.

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Whisk in ¹⁄₈ teaspoon cayenne pepper, ¼ teaspoon  kosher salt and ¹⁄₈ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

 Serve immediately.

P ROM OT ION

Easter Brunch

C O MI N G TH I S S P R I N G !

A S OUT HERN ST Y LE G I N B Y

Beast Butcher& Block

Beast Butcher & Block hosts brunch every Sunday from 10am to 2pm. The Nose-toTail brunch features a carving station, eggs over the coals, house-cured bacon, sausages made in-house, scratch biscuits and a buffet of your favorite fixings. Tickets can be purchased online ahead of time. Brunch is $25 for adults with the option to add bottomless drafts and mimosas for $15. Kids three to 12 are $15. Book today.

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Monday-Saturday • 4-6PM WESTPORT PLAZA | 314.421.0555 | KEMOLLS.COM / a pr i l 2 02 0

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First published in Ted Saucier’s 1951 cocktail book Bottoms Up, The Last Word falls under the “game changer” category in most bartenders’ cache. This unforgettable classic marries four distinct flavors into a wildly unique libation worthy of its clout. Equal parts gin, Green Chartreuse, Maraschino and fresh lime juice ignite each sip and take imbibers on a sweet, tart, herbaceous and almost savory journey into the unknown. Switch up the gin, from botanical to dry, for a different experience every time – you won’t regret it.

Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photography by Starboard & Port Creative

The Last Word

Serves 1

¾ ¾ ¾ ¾

Luxardo and Lazzaroni brands are top-notch.

oz gin oz Green Chartreuse oz Maraschino oz fresh lime juice

/ preparation / Add ingredients to a shaker tin with ice; shake vigorously until your hands are practically frozen to the shaker. Strain cocktail into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with a Luxardo maraschino cherry.

Esoteric Elixir Distilled by French monks from an ancient manuscript believed to be the work of a 16th-century alchemist, Green Chartreuse dates back more than 400 years. The naturally brightgreen elixir – nicknamed “Elixir of Long Life” – contains more than 130 different herbs, and its recipe is shrouded in secrecy. Only two monks at the Chartreuse monastery in Vauvert – a small suburb of Paris – know the recipe at once, which adds to its lore.

Its flavor profile is sweet and, as you can imagine, wildly herbal. A yellow version with a sweeter and mellower flavor and aroma is also available.

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soft drinks Written by Rachel Huffman / photography by judd demaline

At Fitz’s in the Delmar Loop, the 1940s bottling line can churn out a bottle of the brand’s famous root beer – or any of its other flavors such as cream soda and orange pop – every second. Fitz’s Root Beer was developed in St. Louis in 1947; although it later disappeared for a number of years, it was revived in 1993. Today, Fitz’s Bottling Co. still makes its flagship soft drink according to the original recipe.

Flavored with a variety of botanicals, including sassafras, cherry bark, star anise and vanilla, and sweetened with pure cane sugar, Fitz’s Root Beer has been recognized as one of the best root beers in the U.S. More modern flavors such as Key Lime Soda, Hip Hop Pop and Kaldi’s Coffee Cola are also known to tempt discerning taste buds. fitzsrootbeer.com

With love and commitment, Ken and Cindy McClain resurrected an iconic Independence, Missouri, soda brand.

After restoring a 60-year-old bottling machine and working tirelessly to perfect their syrup flavors, the couple successfully ran their first bottling of Polly’s Pop root beer in 2016. The current product line boasts a greater variety of flavors, including strawberry, peach, black cherry, grape, cream, pineapple and orange. In collaboration with Kansas City-based Donutology, the company also makes a Glazed Donut flavor.

Intrigued? Polly’s Pop is available in stores throughout western Missouri and eastern Kansas – snag a bottle today. pollyssodapop.com

Quintessentially American, ice-cold soft drinks evoke happy childhood memories: hot summer days with your feet in the pool and a soda in your hand or late afternoons crammed in a vinyl booth sharing a float with family. These Missouri-based companies make it harder than ever to resist the delightful fizz and enticing flavors of their classic refreshments.

Vess Soda has been a Midwest staple for more than 100 years. Sylvester Jones – nicknamed “Vess” – started the company in 1916, and the “Billion Bubble Beverage” has since been made, canned and sold in the St. Louis area.

For many locals, cracking open a can of Whistle Orange – or any of the brand’s other flavors – is a matter of pride. Vess has earned the city’s trust and loyalty: Nostalgia is key, but it’s backed by great service, quality and authenticity. From cola to cream soda and fruit punch to lemon-lime, Vess products are available in area grocery and retail stores as well as select Kansas City spots. refresco-na.com

Along with his wife, Caroll, and their children, Calvin Scheidegger owns and operates Calvin’s Distributing Co., which was founded by his father, Marvin, in Hermann, Missouri, in 1957.

With the help of a local winemaker, in 2011 Scheidegger developed a recipe for a great-tasting barrel-style root beer. An American classic, Calvin’s 1836 Root Beer has a rich, sweet and creamy body with a spicy bite that’s strong and complex yet finishes smooth. The aftertaste is delicious – spiced vanilla with notes of wintergreen – making it difficult not to indulge. Bottled by Excel Bottling Co. in Breese, Illinois, since 2018, the old-fashioned root beer is available primarily in the counties of Franklin, Gasconade and Warren as well as select Hy-Vee stores in Columbia and Jefferson City. 1836rootbeer.com

The mother-daughter duo of Debbie Walters and Tina King make downhome soda in flavors such as orange cream, grape pop, root beer and the seasonally available Butter Beer, a meld of butterscotch and caramel, and Smuggler’s Run, a summery combination of tropical flavors. Along with King’s husband, Chris, in 2009 they started Ozark Mountain Bottleworks, headquartered in Branson, Missouri, as a way to share their unique recipes – which begin, first and foremost, with the finest ingredients. However, their dedication to the area goes beyond making a great local product: Ozark Mountain Bottleworks regularly sponsors beautification efforts such as the annual shoreline cleanups of Table Rock Lake and Lake Taneycomo. ozmb.com

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 think. eat. live. foods SunFlour is a new way to think about gluten-free. Produced by Think. Eat. Live. Foods based in Wildwood, Missouri, the sunflower seed-based flour – which is also grain-free and nut-free – balances protein, fiber and healthy fats to keep you full longer, sustain your energy for hours and allow you to enjoy the foods you love without sacrificing nutrition or flavor. SunFlour is mildly sweet and nutty, yet neutral enough to use in many baked goods, including coffee cake, apple crisp, zucchini bread and pie.

For lighter, fluffier goodies such as muffins, replace up to 50 percent of the recommended flour with SunFlour; for denser items such as cookies, you can completely replace traditional flour with SunFlour.

[alt]Flours

2464 Taylor Road, Suite 121, Wildwood, Missouri, thinkeatlive.com

 janie's mill Combining the age-old technology of stone milling with modern science, Janie’s Mill in Ashkum, Illinois, produces flour that’s alive. The use of whole grains with living enzymes – with bran and germ – gives its products nutrients that our

Alternative flours are a must for those with gluten allergies, but they’re also great for adding nutrient density to timehonored recipes. In response to their growing popularity, these local companies are stepping up to the plate and milling different flours from wholesome ingredients such as sunflower seeds, chickpeas and einkorn. -Rachel Huffman

bodies can digest and utilize. The naturally gluten-free buckwheat flour is milled from the entire buckwheat groat, which makes it darker than flour from dehulled buckwheat. Boasting a higher fiber content than oatmeal and a pleasantly nutty flavor, buckwheat flour is most often used for protein-packed pancakes in the U.S., while in Asia, it’s the foundation for noodles, including Japanese soba noodles. New to the lineup, einkorn flour is also milled here; it’s soft, airy and naturally light in color, with a delicate sweetness that makes it ideal for baking.

Turn to p. 32 to learn more about the ancient grain behind this alternative flour.

405 N. Second St., Ashkum, Illinois, janiesmill.com

 ardent mills Rooted in innovation and imagination, Ardent Mills is North America’s leading flour supplier and grain pioneer. At its Alton, Illinois, facility, it mills chickpeas sourced from Nebraska, Montana and Washington into a nutritious and delicious flour alternative. A pantry staple the world over, chickpea flour is relatively new to the average U.S. consumer; however, it’s already proven itself a godsend to bakers. Gluten-free bakers are often left scrambling for ways to hold their baked goods together – enter chickpea flour, a naturally dense flour with impressive binding power that gives breads, muffins and cakes a sturdy, yet tender, texture. It also works wonderfully in fritter recipes: Swap it in for wheat flour to add a healthy dose of protein, fiber and micronutrients such as iron, zinc and folate to a savory carrot, squash or shrimp fritter.

145 W. Broadway Ave., Alton, Illinois, ardentmills.com photo by paige mcdonald

Gregory Owens executive chef and owner

SymBowl

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SunFlour

“I find almond flour to be somewhat dry and bitter. SunFlour has a more consistent feel to it. I like the fat-oil ratio, and it’s way more sustainable. [At SymBowl], SunFlour appears in all of our baked goods, we make a grain-free wrap with predominantly SunFlour, and we use it as a supplement for smoothies.”

Exceptional taste.

High quality protein.

Nutritional powerhouse.

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Mushroom Reuben

serves 2 Russian Dressing (Yields 1¼ cups) 1 cup full-fat Greek yogurt ¼ cup ketchup 2 tsp grated horseradish 1 clove garlic, minced 1 tsp hot sauce ¼ cup minced bread and butter pickles salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Mushrooms 4 Tbsp olive oil, divided 2 large portabella mushrooms 2 tsp smoked paprika 2 tsp garlic powder 2 Tbsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp ground coriander salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Reubens are my go-to diner sandwich – even the worst ones are delicious because the flavor profile is flawless – and I’ve been obsessed with giving the classic sandwich a vegetarian twist for some time.

Now, after eating many different versions, I’m convinced that, dare I say it, they are better than the traditional pastrami style. To elevate your Reuben game, use freshbaked rye bread, opt for a more interesting cheese such as Gruyère and pile on a well-made kraut. These elements combine to create the same warm, comforting

Mushroom Reuben 2 Tbsp butter 4 slices rye bread 4 slices (4 oz) Gruyère cheese 4 Tbsp Russian dressing (recipe follows) 1 cup sauerkraut, drained mushrooms (recipe follows)

and familiar sandwich – with a little portabella pizzazz.

Story and recipe by Amanda Elliott, chef-owner, Beet Box in Columbia, Missouri Photography by kim wade

/ preparation – russian dressing / In a bowl, combine all ingredients and season with salt and pepper to taste. Store in refrigerator until ready to use. / preparation – mushrooms / Reserve 2 tablespoons olive oil for cooking.

In a medium bowl, combine remaining ingredients and season with salt and pepper to taste. Place a large sauté pan over medium high heat and add reserved olive oil; add mushrooms, cover and cook, 8 to 10 minutes, flipping every couple of minutes. Once mushrooms are cooked through and tender, remove them from the pan and set aside. Carefully wipe pan clean. / preparation – mushroom reuben / In the same sauté pan over medium heat, add butter. Once butter has melted, add bread.

Immediately place one slice of cheese on top of each slice of bread, cover and leave to cook, 2 to 3 minutes, until cheese begins to melt and bread begins to brown. Remove from heat and transfer bread to a clean work surface. On top of two slices of bread, evenly distribute Russian dressing. On top of the other two slices, evenly distribute sauerkraut and then mushrooms; top with Russian dressingslathered slices. Cut each sandwich in half and serve immediately.

pair with: Amber ale

PA I R IT!

A rich, complex sandwich such as this mushroom Reuben needs a firm, malt-focused beer: Tornado Alley, for example, an American amber ale by Charleville Brewing Co. in St. Louis.

Its caramel and toffee body jibes with the seasoned, sautéed portabella mushrooms and Gruyère-covered rye bread, while its aromatic, sweet pecan and maple notes – alongside a mild hop bitterness – counter the zing of the sauerkraut and Russian dressing. –JC Sandt charlevillebeer.com

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The O.G. (Original Grain)

What Is It? Believed to be the first wheat variety consumed by man, einkorn is truly ancient: It showed up during the Paleolithic era, and the first domestication of wild einkorn was recorded in approximately 7500 B.C. Fast forward a few centuries, and einkorn had all but vanished in a sea of hybridized wheat suited to high yield, low cost and easy processing. However, with the increasing popularity of ancient grains, einkorn – thankfully untouched by modern science – is making a comeback. It boasts a simple genetic structure, with a high level of protein, phosphorous, vitamin B6 and potassium, and its low gluten content makes it easier to digest than modern wheat.

What Do I Do With It? Einkorn isn’t as omnipresent as quinoa or amaranth, but it can be sourced locally from Janie’s Mill in Ashkum, Illinois, as well as ordered online and occasionally found at Whole Foods Market. It’s milled into flour, but also sold as whole berries. Einkorn flour can be used in any recipe, but bear in mind that it has a composition unlike all-purpose flour, so it will act differently. To make the most of the berries, soak them overnight and then pulverize them in a food processor for a creamy breakfast porridge, or break them down in a food processor first and then cook them for a lumpier effect. You can also make nourishing einkorn wheat berry bowls and salads with ease. story and recipe by Shannon Weber, writer and recipe developer, aperiodictableblog.com photography by Jennifer Silverberg

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Einkorn “Oats” with Roasted Rhubarb and Cream Einkorn berries have an undefined sweetness that other grains lack, so go easy on the added sweeteners until you taste this dish.

One of my favorite breakfast recipes is slow-simmered einkorn berries with roasted rhubarb and a bit of cream. The tart hit of rhubarb balances the magic inner sweetness of the einkorn, and the cream adds a pop of luxury that no one needs in the morning but everyone wants. Make this for family and friends, or portion it out and treat yourself – cooked einkorn warms up well on the stovetop with a splash of water.

serves 4 1½

1

1 2¾

¼

½

¾

lbs rhubarb stalks, 3- to 4-inch sections cup sugar juice of ½ lemon cup einkorn berries cups water tsp kosher salt cup sliced almonds, toasted cup heavy cream, to serve

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 350°F. In a bowl, toss rhubarb with sugar and lemon juice. Spread in a single layer in a large casserole dish; let sit, 30 minutes, until juices develop. Transfer to oven and roast, 35 to 45 minutes, until very tender. Remove from oven and set aside until ready to use.

Add einkorn berries to the bowl of a food processor; pulse for a few seconds at a time until they resemble steel-cut oats.

Transfer to a large saucepan. Add water and salt; cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until mixture comes to a boil.

Reduce heat to simmer and cook until berries have softened and water is mostly absorbed, 35 to 40 minutes. Drain any excess water. / to serve / Divide einkorn into four bowls; top with roasted rhubarb and almonds. Serve with a side of cream.

PA I R IT!

pair with: Demi-sec sparkling wine For this recipe, you need a crisp, semi-sweet wine that can stand up to the tartness of the rhubarb.

When the occasion calls for it, pop open a bottle of Stone Hill Winery’s demi-sec sparkling wine made from Traminette and Valvin Muscat grapes and sip it with this breakfast staple. The wine’s silky mouthfeel and luxurious sweetness also complement the dish’s rich cream topping.

–Hilary Hedges stonehillwinery.com

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Springfield-Style You will need a fryer for this recipe.

serves 4 to 6

“I think this recipe represents comfort, prosperity and legacy. Comfort, as in providing a comfort food to all my wonderful loyal customers.

Prosperity, as in making [the] restaurant prosperous so I can feed my family. And [my dad’s] legacy that began in 1963.”

–Wing Leong

Sauce (Yields 4 cups)

¼ cup cornstarch

¼ cup water 3½ cups chicken broth

¼ cup soy sauce

2 Tbsp oyster sauce

½ tsp salt

½ tsp sugar

¼ tsp ground white pepper

1 pinch ground ginger ¹⁄₈ tsp sesame oil

Springfield-Style Cashew Chicken

4 cups all-purpose flour

2 Tbsp seasoned salt, divided 1½ tsp ground white pepper, divided

2 Tbsp garlic powder

½ tsp ground cayenne pepper (optional)

3 eggs

3 cups milk

2 lbs chicken breast, cut into 1-inch pieces sauce (recipe follows)

½ cup roasted cashews, for garnsih

½ cup chopped green onion, for garnish / preparation – sauce / In a small bowl, add cornstarch and then water; whisk together until completely combined. (This is your slurry.) In a saucepan over high heat, add remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Once boiling, add slurry and stir until sauce develops a gravy-like consistency. Remove from heat and set aside until ready to use.

Nutty, saucy and unbelievably satisfying, Springfield-style cashew chicken is the most well-known dish to come out of Springfield, Missouri. Blending flavors and traditions of the Ozarks with those of his Cantonese heritage, David Leong, founder of Leong’s Asian Diner, whipped up the first batch in 1963. Now found on menus across the country and spotted in restaurants as far away as Hong Kong, the recipe features bite-size morsels of fried chicken – crispy on the outside, tender on the inside – smothered in a savory sauce and garnished with cashews and green onion. –Lillian Stone

Recipe courtesy of Wing Leong, executive chef and owner, Leong’s Asian Diner Photography by jessica kennon spencer

Johnson Tan

chef-owner, 5 Spice China Grill, Ocean Zen and Cellar + Plate 34

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Leong’s Asian Diner

/ preparation – springfield-style cashew chicken / Set fryer to 350°F. In a bowl, combine flour, 1 tablespoon salt, 1 teaspoon white pepper, garlic powder and cayenne pepper. In a separate bowl, whisk together eggs, milk and remaining salt and white pepper. With each piece of chicken, completely coat with flour mixture, dunk in egg-milk mixture and then coat again with flour mixture; place on a baking sheet. Transfer coated chicken pieces to fryer and fry, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from fryer and set on a paper towel-lined plate or wire rack. When ready to serve, refry chicken, 2 to 3 minutes; remove chicken from fryer and plate it with sauce.

Garnish with cashews and green onion. Serve hot.

“David Leong is the father of cashew chicken, which is, of course, a big thing.

A lot of restaurants opened in [Springfield, Missouri] in the 1970s and 1980s, and cashew chicken was on every menu. This recipe remains pretty legendary.”

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Pork Tenderloin Sandwich

In this class, you’ll learn pounding techniques for different types of meat. You’ll also practice the wet-hand, dry-hand breading method – then you can decide for yourself how important it is to use the method for this recipe.

Back in the day, you could stop at select gas stations along any Midwest stretch of highway for this classic sandwich, subsequently fueling your journey for another few hours. This pork tenderloin sandwich is breaded in Club Crackers and baked to crispy perfection. Add whatever toppings you like and savor its overall simplicity.

Written by Gabrielle DeMichele Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Get Hands-On for the date of the class to make the dishes on this month’s menu, Contact Schnucks Cooks Cooking School directly.

nourish.schnucks.com/ web-ext/cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704

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serves 4 1 large pork tenderloin, approximately 1½ lbs 1 cup rice flour 3 large eggs 1 cup buttermilk ½ tsp granulated garlic ¼ tsp cayenne pepper 1 tsp kosher salt, plus more for seasoning ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper, plus more for seasoning 80 Club Crackers 2 Tbsp grapeseed oil 4 Kaiser rolls, halved and buttered ½ cup mayonnaise ½ cup yellow mustard 2 tomatoes, sliced 1 sweet onion, thinly sliced 8 leaves lettuce such as red butter, romaine or iceberg 8 dill pickles, optional / preparation / Preheat oven to 425°F. Cut pork

tenderloin crosswise into 2-inch slices. Lay one slice on its cut end on a sheet of wax paper. Add a

drop of water to pork and then place another sheet of wax paper on top. With a small skillet, mallet or meat tenderizer, lightly pound pork into a flat disc, starting at the center and working outward. Set pork aside and repeat with remaining slices.

In a bowl big enough for a piece of pounded pork to lay flat, add rice flour. In a separate bowl, whisk together eggs, buttermilk, garlic, cayenne, salt and pepper. Using a rolling pin or food processor, grind crackers into small crumbs and then transfer to a third bowl.

Cover a rimmed baking sheet in oil.

Turn a slice of pork in flour to coat both sides, dip it in egg mixture and then coat it in cracker crumbs. Place breaded pork on prepared baking sheet. Repeat with remaining slices, leaving a little space between each on baking sheet. Place baking sheet on the lowest rack of the oven and cook for 20 minutes,

flipping slices at the halfway mark. Meanwhile, toast rolls under the broiler. When rolls are toasted, remove them from broiler. When pork tenderloin is done, remove it from oven. / assembly / Evenly distribute mayonnaise and

mustard on the bottom of each roll; add one slice of pork tenderloin to each and then top with tomato, onion, lettuce and pickles, if using.

Finish sandwiches with the top of each roll. Add a toothpick on either side of the middle and slice in half. Serve immediately.

MAKE THE MEAL • • • • •

Creamy Tomato Soup with Sizzling Croutons Wedge Salad Pork Tenderloin Sandwich Four-Cheese Mac ‘n’ Cheese Blackberry Cobbler

CULINARY LIBRARY /

blackwater, mo.

with Tracy Russell, chef-owner, Iron Horse Hotel & Restaurant tChef Tracy Russell moved to Blackwater, Missouri, in 2014 to run the 132-year-old

Iron Horse Hotel & Restaurant. Inspired by his native New Orleans and his upbringing in Umbria, a region of central Italy, his menu blends Southern, Cajun and Italian flavors with some local favorites. The restaurant opens for the season on Easter Sunday, at which time you can enjoy the gnocchi al pesto – potato dumplings tossed with fresh basil pesto, Romano cheese and pine nuts – or the Creole shrimp with fluffy white rice, among other dishes, in the bespoke space. Amid the Iron Horse Restaurant’s stone walls, pressed-tin ceiling and ornate furniture reminiscent of a bygone era, Russell chose three cookbooks that have impacted him. –Kasey Carlson

The Pasta Bible

A Passion for Baking

by Marcella Hazan (1992)

by Jeni Wright (1999)

by Marcy Goldman (2014)

“Italian food in Italy is quite different than

“I love pasta. There are so many things

“[A Passion for Baking] has inspired me to start

Italian food here in the States. [Essentials

to do with it, and this book incorporates

baking quite a bit more – [especially] desserts

of Classic Italian Cooking] is a great book

almost every traditional Italian pasta

for the restaurant. It’s pretty up-to-date,

to get real traditional Italian food fit for the

there is. And most Americans will eat

but it’s simplistic. You don’t need to have an

American palate.�

anything if it’s in pasta.�

engineering degree to figure out how to bake a cake, how to do a soufflÊ – that sort of thing. If you can read, if you’ve been in a kitchen and can follow directions, it’s a good book.�

photography by keith borgmeyer

Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking

ďż˝

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Scanning old cookbooks, I’ve found an abundance of recipes that call for a generic “onion” in their ingredients list. Even today, the practice persists on blogs and beyond, perpetuating the myth that all onions taste and act the same. In reality, they’re not so interchangeable.

When we shop, we’re met with an array of onions, which isn’t just for show. While some are more “all-purpose” than others, every onion is best for something.

Knowing what each onion will do in different scenarios will only improve your cooking.

Remember: Onions want to work for you, but you have to learn to speak their language.

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illustration by kim cho

Written by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com

Photography by jennifer silverberg

 Peeling Back the Layers

Yellow (Spanish)

Sweet (Vidalia)

Red

White

Yellow onions work in any recipe that calls for

You can identify this large, squat onion by its

A bright spot in a sea of neutrals, red onions

Watery, cool and crisp, white onions have

something as vague as an “onion.” They have

thin, soft yellow skin. Creamy white on the

are gorgeous, inside and out. The mild flavor

always been destined for raw applications.

sturdy, medium-size rings and are best when

inside with thick rings and a mellow flavor,

of raw red onions works wonderfully in

They offer a fresh crunch to soft tacos,

cooked, which significantly mellows their

sweet onions are good in any dish where

salads or on burgers, but pickling them will

balance out the gooey cheese and creamy

sharp flavor. They get sweeter as they sizzle,

onions take center stage. Onion rings, French

really make the thin, purple-edged rings pop.

sauce of enchiladas and add a surprising

making them a great choice for caramelizing,

onion soup and onion gratins are all at their

Although they don’t handle lengthy cooking

sharpness to sandwiches such as tuna salad.

and their relatively low water content means

best when you use sweet onions, as they hold

well, they’re a perfect onion for a quick char

they won’t turn to mush over time.

their shape and texture well when cooked.

on the grill or as a colorful pizza topping.

WBest All-Around

WMost Likely to Succeed

Scallion

WMost Nicknames

Spring

give rise to so many labels: Green onions, salad onions, green

WPrettiest

WMost Refreshing

Leek

WHardest to Clean

WMost Misunderstood

Cleaning leeks can be fussy business – their sturdy, verdant

More mature than scallions, spring onions are also bigger

green leaves are master dirt trappers – but they’re so

shallots, onion sticks and syboes – they’re all scallions. Mostly

and have a bit more personality. Truly a seasonal onion,

versatile that it’s worth it. Leeks are beautiful when kept

used in Latin American and Asian dishes, scallions are great

spring onions are only available during, you guessed it,

long and braised all on their own, when their texture softens

raw or cooked. Roast them with other vegetables, sprinkle

spring. When the time is right, don’t miss your chance to

and flavor mellows. But they also pair spectacularly well

them in stir-fries or scatter them raw over everything from

throw them in egg dishes, stir-fries and soups, savory

with root vegetables in mashes, purées and soups such as

tacos to chili to risotto for a “greener” flavor than white onion.

pancakes, pastries and salads.

potato-bacon, butternut squash and celeriac.

Shallot

WMost Elusive

Cipollini

Pearl

Who knew small, white bulbs with fanned green tops could

WFanciest

WCutest

Cipollini onions – which look like a miniature version of sweet

Tiny, snow-white and sweet, pearl onions are one of the only

Tiny but mighty, shallots pack big flavor in their delicate rings.

onions – can be roasted, braised or put in gratins for your

onions you’ll find frozen. They’re a fan favorite for classic

A close relative of garlic – hence their bulbous shape – shallots

dining pleasure. An assertive and potent variety, their sugar

dishes such as creamed onions, but you can also take them in a

are equally good raw or cooked. Mince them into dressings,

content makes them a great choice for caramelizing as well.

more modern direction by glazing them with balsamic vinegar

sauces and glazes to add a layer of flavor to any dish.

They have thin skin that can be a hassle to peel, but you’ll be

or tamarind, which makes better use of their flavor profile. Like

rewarded with melt-in-your-mouth texture and fabulous flavor.

red onions, pearl onions pickle well and elevate any relish tray. / a pr i l 2 02 0

39

SUGAR RUSH / HOW-TO / THE MIX + MIDWEST MADE / ON TREND / HEALTHY APPETITE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

2 A Cut above the Rest Onions are ineliminable, and learning how to cut them is one kitchen skill worth mastering. This technique will speed up your prep and give you perfectly square pieces of onion every time. Just follow these steps.

Trim the ends Using a sharp knife (preferably a chef’s knife or santoku), trim off both ends of the

Caramelizing onions isn’t a quick process; slow and steady definitely wins this particular race.

onion, leaving the root intact.

Halve and peel With the root end facing up, cut the onion in half through the root, and then peel the

You don’t need to hunt for the perfect recipe: How long you cook them depends on the onions you use (reach for yellow or sweet here) and how done you like them.

skin off both halves. Discard skin.

Start to slice Lay one half of onion cut side down with the root end facing away from you. Make vertical cuts through the onion, being careful not to cut through the root. The knife cut that your recipe calls for – from medium dice to brunoise – will determine how wide you make the slices.

To the left, to the left If you’re right-handed, turn the onion so

Blonde

Golden Brown

Deep Golden Brown

Although not fully

More time in the pan

Nearly crisped, intensely

caramelized, blonde

gives onions a darker

brown onions have

onions have developed

tan. Golden onions are

the most complex and

that first undercurrent

sweet and incredibly

concentrated flavor, with

of sweetness and

tender – use them for an

pops of char amidst a sea

depth, making them

irresistible onion jam,

of sweetness. They’re a

ideal for French onion

among other things.

burger’s favorite topping.

soup. Cappuccinocolored, they’re a level

that the root end is facing to the left. If

up from onions that

you’re left-handed, the root end should

have been sweated to

face the right. Turn your knife so that the

mellow out their flavor.

blade is parallel to the onion and make three evenly spaced cuts horizontally through the onion – still being careful not to sever the root.

Chop Make cuts perpendicular to your first vertical cuts and watch as the onion falls into expertly chopped pieces.

Cutting into an onion releases potent enzymes, and how you slice it – with or against the grain – determines the amount of enzymes released, which ultimately affects the flavor profile of the onion. Slicing an onion from pole to pole (or with the grain) causes less damage to the cell walls and releases fewer enzymes, creating a milder flavor. Slicing through the middle (or against the grain) causes a greater disruption and results in a stronger, more pungent flavor. Just keep that in mind the next time you’re making rings for your burger.

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For the dos and don’ts of caramelizing, visit feastmagazine.com.

Caramelizing to any degree involves the same steps; the only difference is the number of times you perform them, based on which milestone you want to reach.

Prep Evenly slice the onion: ¼ inch to ¹⁄₈ inch is best for thickness. Too thick and the onion won’t caramelize; too thin and it will burn. You don’t need perfect, solid rings when caramelizing – the whole point is to make the onion soft and melty. And you’ve already learned how to cut an onion to achieve a specific flavor profile, so let’s put that knowledge into practice: Slice the onion pole to pole to get one step ahead in the sweetness game.

If you plan to add other ingredients – garlic, thyme, rosemary or the like – get those chopped and ready, along with a deglazing liquid – water, wine, beer, broth or balsamic vinegar. The liquid should be in a vessel you can control (read: no glugs).

Heat Heat a thin layer of oil that can tolerate high heat, or a combination of butter and oil, in a large, wide, heavy pan over medium heat. Note: Use a stainless steel or cast-iron pan to develop the most “fond” (a.k.a. sticky brown bits that build up on the bottom of the pan) that you’ll scrape back

Not Your Grammy’s Creamed Onions

into the onions as you cook.

Soften You don’t want to steam the onions during caramelization, except when you do: right at the beginning. Throw the onions in the pan, season with a pinch of salt, stir to coat onions with oil and cover for 10 to 15 minutes to soften them. This creates a uniform texture that will go a long way to ensure your finished product is even in texture and color.

Caramelize Finally, the fun part: Remove the lid and prepare to hover – you’ll mostly leave the onions alone, but this is no time to catch up on your favorite TV series. Caramelization is all about observation: While the onions cook, things are happening that you’ll need to regulate. Stir them every few minutes and keep watch for warning signs that things are going awry. If you find the onions have low or no moisture, add a splash of deglazer, stir and scrape the bottom of the pan. If the onions are experiencing uneven or rapid cooking, lower heat to medium low or low.

The entire process takes 45 minutes (golden brown) to an hour (deep golden brown), though blonde onions take less time – look for them to be done after 30 to 35 minutes.

serves 8

2

3 1 to 2

½

2

2

½

1¼

¼

¼ 5 to 6

large sweet onions (approximately 2 lbs) medium yellow onions (approximately 1 lb) Tbsp olive oil tsp kosher salt, plus more for seasoning freshly ground black pepper Tbsp unsalted butter Tbsp all-purpose flour cup milk cups heavy cream tsp cayenne pepper tsp freshly ground nutmeg sprigs fresh thyme

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 400°F. Slice onions parallel to their equator in ¼-inch slices and lay in a single layer (though overlapping slightly) on a lipped sheet pan.

Drizzle with olive oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Roast for 20 minutes.

With all due respect to your grandmother, an update to the classic creamed onion recipe – which traditionally calls for frozen pearl onions – is long overdue.

This more modern version has bold onion flavor and a sturdier texture that won’t turn to mush when baked. Not to mention, the layers of undisturbed onion rings will look like a work of art coming out of the oven.

While onions roast, heat butter in a large saucepan over medium heat until melted. Whisk in flour; continue whisking until flour is cooked and smooth, 4 minutes. Stream in milk and heavy cream; whisk until smooth.

Add cayenne pepper, nutmeg and salt; continue whisking until mixture begins to bubble. Remove from heat and add thyme sprigs.

Butter the bottom and sides of a large, shallow casserole dish. Remove roasted onions from sheet pan with a large spatula, keeping rings intact, and transfer to casserole dish. Onions should be laid out with the largest rings on the bottom and the smallest on the top, overlapping as needed to form even layers. Pour hot cream mixture on top, season with pepper and tightly cover with aluminum foil. Bake for 25 minutes. Remove cover and bake for another 20 minutes, until onions are mottled and brown on top. / to serve / Remove from oven and allow to set, approximately 15 minutes. Serve hot. / a pr i l 2 02 0

41

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49

53

Handcrafted Heritage

Tavern Tradition

50 Years of Burnt Ends

Volpi Foods creates artisan cured meats using recipes dating back to the early 1900s.

With a 186-year history, J. Huston Tavern has quite the tale.

The making of Kansas City's signature dish.

/ a pr i l 2 02 0

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For more than 110 years, St. Louis’ Volpi Foods has been refining the science and the art of dry-curing meat Written by

Sara Bannoura Photography by

matt seidel Lorenza Pasetti takes a specialized tool made of horse bone in her hand. With the pointy end of the filed-down bone, she gently pokes a leg of prosciutto.

Then, she smells it. It’s the same delicate process her great-uncle John Volpi used more than 100 years ago when he first started Volpi Foods in The Hill neighborhood of St. Louis.

Using the horse bone to determine the performance of the production process is one of many techniques that have remained unchanged at Volpi Foods. The lauded local company is known across the country for its artisan cured meats, which are still made from recipes dating back to the early 1900s.

he company’s history begins in 1900, when a

21-year-old John Volpi emigrated from Milan, Italy, to the United States – St. Louis, to be exact – in search of a better life. He had learned how to make sausages and cured meats at a school in his home country and relied on his expertise to make fresh sausages for the growing immigrant community in St. Louis while living in a friend’s basement. At the time, there were more than five miles of underground clay mines laced beneath the city, and Volpi was happy to give some of those workers – many of whom were Italian – a taste of home.

Two years later, Volpi had already saved enough money to launch Volpi Foods; he opened a brick-and-mortar location at 5256 Daggett Avenue, where the company still resides today. In time, Volpi expanded his product line to include prosciutto, salami and other dry-cured meats. His wife, Maria Pasetti, worked as a midwife, delivering untold number of Italian babies – a whole generation of future customers, their great-niece Lorenza jokes – in their humble home.

Demand for Volpi foodstuffs continued to grow, and since the couple didn’t have any children of their own, they asked for the next available relative to come to St. Louis to help them. Maria’s nephew, Armando, answered the call and emigrated from Italy in the 1930s. Living above the shop, he learned the business just as his uncle had: from the ground up. He swept floors, stocked shelves, tied sausages and eventually mastered every aspect of the craft – right down to the opening and closing of the shop windows. Ten years later, he traveled to Italy for his brother’s wedding, where he met Lorenza’s mother, Evelina. The two exchanged letters back and forth, and she finally moved to St. Louis in 1952.

“When you work in food, you have to be a little bit on the romantic side,” says Lorenza. “Because that’s what you do: You’re sharing food, you’re sharing love, right?”

When Volpi died in 1957, Armando took the reins of what had become a thriving business, and in 1980, as Volpi Foods continued to expand nationally, he enlisted Lorenza to help manage the manufacturing plant. With an MBA from Washington University in St. Louis, Lorenza became the first family member with a business degree to run the company, beginning in 2002. / a pr i l 2 02 0

45

As president of Volpi Foods, she continues to refine her great-uncle’s craft, while adhering to his age-old techniques. Quality control is paramount to maintaining the brand’s superior quality, which is where the aforementioned horse bone comes into play. Created from a horse femur, the bone is crucial, especially when making prosciutto. It’s porous in such a way that it absorbs odors but rapidly releases them. So, during the curing process – after the blood is drained from the pig thigh – the pointed tip of the bone is inserted into the flesh and then smelled. Each piece of meat is tested at a few key points, corresponding to areas where blood is drained from the ham during the “fresh” stage. When Lorenza tests in these areas, if the horse bone comes out smelling foul, she knows something’s wrong – maybe all the blood wasn’t drained and it has started to rot, ruining the prosciutto and nullifying the 18-month curing process.

Growing up, prosciutto was one of Lorenza’s favorites. As an adult, she’s learned to appreciate all its intricacies, describing the process as simple but delicate. “If you screw it up, you’ve screwed up a year and a half of work,” she says. The prosciutto is aged a minimum of 12 months to deliver unparalleled flavor, pairing distinct earthy notes with a tender, melt-in-your-mouth texture.

In Europe, salami was traditionally made from grinding miscellaneous parts of the pig together.

The mixture was then stuffed in a casing and hung in people’s homes and barns. Animals were typically harvested in the fall, so that the cold winter weather could provide natural refrigeration for the curing meats, and by summertime, the products would be dry and safe to eat.

Although Volpi Foods uses refrigeration and advanced technology – which Lorenza says make the process more predictable – its salami is still made the same way. “I think every link in the chain has gotten better,” she says. “The process itself has gotten more dependable and consistent because of the advances in technology.”

Volpi’s proprietary process is broken down into four phases: preparing the meat, fermenting it, drying it and cultivating the mold. The early stages are the most pivotal, explains Lorenza, because fresh meat has a lot of moisture and must be kept cold to prevent bacterial growth. The meat is hand-rubbed with salt – an antimicrobial – which penetrates the protein, and then hung in cavernous drying rooms beneath Volpi Foods’ store on The Hill.

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PICTURED ABOVE: Lorenza Pasetti with her father, Armando; a horse bone is used to test the quality of each leg of prosciutto as it cures

While some products such as prosciutto are salt-cured and air-dried, salami is ground with salt

like a moisturizer,” jokes Lorenza. She says some companies spray mold on the casing, but the

and spices and fermented before being dried. Not one to rely on artificial processing, Volpi Foods

environment at Volpi Foods doesn’t require any such help. “Mold is in the air,” she says. “It occurs

uses only the freshest pork to ensure that it has the ideal pH level for fermentation. The natural

naturally.” As unappetizing as the word sounds, mold is essential to the creation of flavorful salami.

cultures break down the sugar in the meat and encourage the growth of mold – but not that kind At Volpi, dry-curing meat is a science and an art. The company has approximately 130 products now,

of mold.

but Lorenza believes it continues to prosper because it’s always focused on what it knows best: meat. She has no plans for the company to produce other Italian goods such as pasta or cheese.

When the salami is hung in the underground caves, airflow and subtle changes in humidity and temperature dry it to its most flavorful point; all the while, experienced craftspeople make sure the chain of water molecules from the center of the salami to its surface is never broken. This part

“We try to be authentic,” she says. “We don’t try to be something we’re not. We have always been

of the process is never rushed, as that can result in uneven drying or discoloration. The conditions

focused on dry-cured meats; we just figured that if we stayed focused and got really good at it, that

of the caves are also prime for mold, and as the meat dries, mold grows on its surface, insulating

would be the path forward for us. I want consumers to see the brand and go, ‘Oh yeah, that’s gotta be

the meat and further regulating the drying process. “The mold keeps the outside surface moist –

good – it’s a Volpi product,’ you know? That's the kind of brand loyalty that is exciting for me.”

It’s no surprise that one of St. Louis’ top fine-dining restaurants,

taking home a medal in the charcuterie category. Vetted

Tony’s, among many other local restaurants, uses Volpi products.

not only by taste, but by sourcing practices, the product

The clam sauce, creamed spinach and various risottos incorporate

exemplifies the best of the artisan food movement – working

pancetta from Volpi Foods, and during the summer, Tony’s plates

directly with family farms throughout Missouri to source meat

the brand’s prosciutto with fresh melon and figs. The restaurant’s

that is raised responsibly and handcrafting slow-aged products

signature salad includes 10 different greens, tomato, radish, celery

to achieve exceptional flavor. Right now, approximately 25

and scallions, but Volpi’s salami is what makes it stand out.

percent of the farmers with whom the company works use sustainable harvesting practices, but the idea is to encourage

“If you tour [Volpi’s] facility, you can understand why it’s so great,”

them all to transition.

says James Bommarito, president of Tony’s. “[The craftspeople] do everything right … that’s why their products are the best.”

“We’re trying to establish our own criteria for sustainable farming,” says Lorenza. “And then on the flip side, we’re trying

Volpi products are widely available in grocery stores and specialty

to reduce our use of plastic.” The company has been working on

shops as well as online. At the storefront on The Hill, meats sliced

finding adequate paper-based packaging that will be easier on

to order and specialty sandwiches are also sold. Lorenza is always

the planet but still keep its products fresh.

looking for ways to make the products more accessible to her customers, and she wants to move toward a more environmentallyfriendly approach to farming, harvesting and packaging products.

tony's

signature salad with volpi salami

The first step to achieving that goal was launching a line of products

“We see what’s going on in the world – it doesn’t take a genius to understand that we’re wasting things, and being Italian, we don’t like to waste anything,” she adds with a laugh. “But it’s true: You have to take care of where you live.”

made with meat from purebred heritage hogs. This year, Volpi’s Heritage Prosciutto received top honors at the Good Food Awards,

5256 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, volpifoods.com / a pr i l 2 02 0

47

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oused in a Federal-style brick building in Arrow Rock, Missouri, J. Huston Tavern has withstood a great deal since its establishment in 1834: the American Civil War, dubious military executions, major fires in 1872 and 1901 and economic collapse. But last spring, the oldest continually serving restaurant west of the Mississippi River faced an attack from a relatively recent addition considering its 186-year history: electricity.

At approximately 11:30pm on May 17, 2019, Arrow Rock

Public Advertiser in the fall of that year. “One of the best

historic site administrator and longtime resident Mike

town sites in that country.” (Missouri wasn’t admitted to the

Dickey was relaxing at home with his dog, Ivy. Ivy isn’t the

Union until two years later.)

most perceptive pup, so Dickey took notice when she became increasingly agitated. Glancing out the window,

Called Philadelphia – and sometimes New Philadelphia in

he saw black smoke billowing from the kitchen window of

the journals of early travelers – before becoming Arrow

J. Huston Tavern. Dickey just so happens to be the chief of

Rock, the town was so named for the landmark bluffs along

Saline County Rural Fire Protection District Station 2 – a

the Missouri River, which were first documented by French

volunteer outfit – as well, and immediately sounded the

cartographer Jean d’Anville on his 1732 Carte de la Louisiane

alarm, rounding up the other firefighters.

(Map of Louisiana) as “Pierre à Flèche,” or “Rock of Arrows.”

Its advantageous location – on the westward path to

When the unit arrived, the fire was still contained to the

lucrative trading in Santa Fe – attracted enterprising men

kitchen and most of the doors within the building were

who wasted no time in populating the area with hotels,

closed, preventing widespread smoke damage. They

blacksmith shops, doctors’ offices and more.

smothered the fire with foam – which, among other things, is less damaging than water – and then fogged the other

In 1829, Huston and his brother were among five

rooms to cool the structure down.

commissioners of Philadelphia, who advertised lots for sale in the Missouri Intelligencer and Boonslick Advertiser.

after

186

It was later determined that the culprit of the chaos was

“This town … is laid out on a high bluff, and commands

an electrical fire sparked inside a freezer, which had the

a handsome view of the River, and has several excellent

potential to destroy this irreplaceable piece of history.

Springs adjoining,” promised the publicity. “This point, as a

years ,

j. Huston Tavern , , in arrow rock missouri

can still draw a crowd

place of business, possesses as great natural advantages as any other, having around it an extensive country of the best farming land in the State, with a good and rapidly increasing population of wealthy and enterprising citizens…”

Joseph Huston, Sr., moved from Virginia to Missouri in 1819 at age 35. Accompanied by his wife, Sarah, his brother,

In 1833, Huston himself bought four lots on Arrow Rock’s

Benjamin, and other family members, the Hustons made

Main Street for $89; the next year, he had a two-story home

their way to a newly chartered town at the intersection of

built for his family in the Federal style, an architectural style

the Santa Fe Trail and the Missouri River. “640 acres of Land

characterized by simple, symmetrical facades and notably

[sic], at the Arrow rock, on the Missouri river, 13 miles above

understated design elements – even the most ornate, such as

Franklin, at the ferry,” advertised the Missouri Gazette and

the Massachusetts State House, are typically modest. / a pr i l 2 02 0

49

PICTURED: Friends of Arrow Rock executive director Sandy

Selby and president Chet Breitwieser

smoked bone-in pork chops

As traffic through Arrow Rock increased, Huston seized an

ike many historic buildings, J. Huston

named the DAR as “custodians” of the building. Not only was

overt business opportunity: He had the structure expanded

Tavern has its fair share of ghost stories.

J. Huston Tavern the first building in Missouri preserved with

on both floors and turned it into a tavern consisting of a

Friends of Arrow Rock president Chet

public funds, it was the first addition to the Missouri State

restaurant, general store and meeting house. It even had a

Breitwieser and executive director Sandy

Parks system and could arguably be called the birthplace of heritage tourism.

post office, and Huston was appointed postmaster general

Selby often tell the story of the Lady in White. On a snowy

in 1845. In 1840, he also added a ballroom, which served as a

night, shortly after giving birth, a woman who is believed to

makeshift hospital during cholera epidemics.

have been a tailor’s wife rose from bed and walked barefoot

The DAR maintained control of the tavern from 1923 to 1984,

out of the tavern. Her footprints were tracked to a nearby bluff,

witnessing an unusual transformation during that time: Arrow

Huston’s establishment was a welcome sight for weary

and she was never seen again – except by several tourists who

Rock – which was once on the verge of extinction – ensured

travelers in need of a hot meal and a place to rest their head.

swear they’ve spotted her ghost inside the tavern. Professional

its future by reclaiming its past. According to Missouri Life

“On my first visit to Saline [County], in 1840, I landed at Arrow

ghost hunters have even been brought in and have recorded

Magazine, “A preservation movement that started with the

Rock from a steam boat in the night,” wrote one such traveler,

the supposed spirits of the space via sound and video.

restoration of the tavern gained momentum in the 1960s as the Friends of Arrow Rock and Missouri State Parks saved

Dr. Glenn C. Hardeman, “and, as I intended going to the country in the morning, I took lodging only at the hotel kept by that

Haunted or not, the tavern is well-loved – though not always

other buildings from the brink of destruction and gave them

well known and popular citizen, Joseph Huston, Sr., for which

well taken care of. By the 1920s, “it wasn’t falling down, but

new life as museums and shops.” History buffs joined the

I was charged the sum of twelve and one-half cents, or, should

it certainly needed attention,” says Breitwieser. “Windows

conservation effort, buying and fixing up old houses. A handful

I say, a ‘bit.’ On my return in a few days I dined at the same

needed attention, bricks needed tuckpointing.” The Daughters

of visionaries started the Arrow Rock Lyceum Theatre in the

hotel and was charged another ‘bit’ for an excellent dinner.”

of the American Revolution (DAR) – a nonprofit organization

town’s abandoned Baptist church – to this day, the regional

known for its interest in historic preservation – realized the

theater draws professional actors from across the country to

tavern was in need of aid and persuaded the Missouri General

participate in its Broadway-caliber productions. And in 1963,

Assembly to purchase it. The state legislature paid $5,000 and

the entire town was designated a National Historic Landmark.

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PICTURED: Chef Janet Carmack

pan-Fried Chicken

pork tenderloin sandwich

Today, Arrow Rock – which has an official population of 56,

that we’re going to get you back up and running – whatever

become the new fan favorite. Other hearty tavern dishes include

though Selby admits that number is probably generous –

we have to do.’ [Two days later], the director of Missouri

beef brisket, smoked bone-in pork chops and caramel-bourbon

attracts approximately 150,000 visitors a year, and J. Huston

State Parks was here in town, making the same assurances.

bread pudding for a sublimely sweet ending to any meal.

Tavern – now run by the Friends of Arrow Rock – remains the

And within a month, we had a mobile kitchen and a massive

heart of the operation. “Our board took it on and saved the

[outdoor] tent in place.”

tavern business,” says Selby. “We couldn’t imagine it closing –

The repainted dining room is ready to welcome back guests, however, J. Huston Tavern is temporarily closed due to the

it’s vital history, and [we] realized the importance of it to the

The J. Huston Tavern served customers outdoors for six weeks

COVID-19 pandemic. As soon as it’s possible to reopen, it plans

village and the state of Missouri.”

during the summer of 2019 – a hot one, to be sure, but fans and

to continue service via the mobile kitchen through October

the occasional breeze made the heat manageable. “It was like

but will then close until Easter 2021 to rebuild. The staff and

a full-time picnic,” says Breitwieser. “Although my preference

volunteers are excited about the promise of a shiny new

is inside the building, it was a delightful alternative to an

kitchen and refurbished dining room, even if this isn’t how they

unfortunate situation.”

wanted to get it.

members of the Friends of Arrow Rock

“Our diners have been very understanding and very supportive,

“It will be new, fresh,” says Selby. “With the space to seat

were already figuring out how to continue

coming back again and again,” adds Selby. “Even when we were

everybody!” adds Breitwieser.

service while repairs were underway.

working with paper plates in a tent, they wanted us to keep

ess than 24 hours after the fire last spring,

going. Gracious hospitality and good food wins every time.”

The building itself is still owned by the state, and Selby says

“Yes,” agrees Selby, noting that the larger, upgraded kitchen will also allow Carmack to experiment more and expand the

that she would have understood if it had said renovations

The tavern is known for its pan-fried chicken, but when chef

simply weren’t in the budget. “But the regional director came

Janet Carmack came on board in 2019, she added her award-

in [the morning after the fire] and said, ‘I want to assure you

winning pork tenderloin sandwich to the menu, which may soon

tavern’s menu. “It’ll be cause for a celebration.”

305 Main St., Arrow Rock, Missouri, hustontavern.com / a pr i l 2 02 0

51

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How free throwaways became Kansas City’s most popular dish written by april fleming

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photography by zach bauman

No single dish is more closely associated with Kansas City than burnt ends. Developed and popularized over several decades by legendary pitmasters Henry Perry and Arthur Bryant, journalist Calvin Trillin and countless competitors in the Kansas City barbecue circuit, the dish continues to evolve through today’s most respected and influential industry professionals. While Kansas City residents are generally modest, you’ll be hard-pressed to meet someone who doesn’t agree with this sentiment: Burnt ends were born in Kansas City, and you won’t find any better in the world.

The story of burnt ends – and Kansas

he opened an “eat shop” – often credited

smoked ribs, beef brisket and pulled

home in New York City: He says that Perry

City barbecue, for that matter – begins

as Kansas City’s first brick-and-mortar

pork sandwiches, alongside more humble

was “a mean outfit.”

with Henry Perry. Born in Shelby County,

barbecue restaurant – at 1514 East 19th

proteins such as woodchuck, opossum and

Tennessee, in 1875, Perry learned the ins

Street, one block from 18th and Vine,

raccoon. He utilized a pit oven to smoke his

“He had a sauce that was too hot for some

and outs of barbecuing as a child and, at

the vibrant economic and cultural hub of

meats, to which hickory and oak fires and

people, and he liked watching them eat it,”

age 15, began mastering other kitchen skills

African-American life in Kansas City. It was

an aggressively spicy vinegar-pepper sauce

says Trillin. “I have a theory that barbecue

while working as a cook on steamboats

the first of several establishments Perry ran

imparted his signature flavor.

people are usually a little surly because they

journeying up and down the Mississippi

during his illustrious career.

River. He settled in Kansas City in 1907, and

have to stand there with smoke in their eyes Calvin Trillin, who wrote the famous Playboy

for so long.” But Perry also had a generous

a year later decided to open a food cart,

More than a century ago, Perry was serving

article that playfully extolled Arthur Bryant’s

spirit: On more than one occasion, he hosted

selling smoked meats and sandwiches

dishes that still dominate the menus of

Barbeque as “the Best Restaurant in the

a massive Fourth of July barbecue, where he

in downtown’s Garment District. In 1910,

Kansas City barbecue restaurants, including

World,” was recently reached via phone at his

fed hundreds of people on his own dime. / a pr i l 2 02 0

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PICTURED THIS PAGE: (Above, Right) Briskets in the smoker at Arthur Bryant's Barbeque; (Below) The entire smoked brisket is cubed into burnt ends

After this all-star lineup of

Trillin’s article cemented

today are not the same thing.

diners came and went, Trillin’s

Kansas City as a barbecue

“As I remember it, the burnt

1972 Playboy article was

destination and changed the

ends were just trimmings

published. Besides claiming

way diners looked at “burned

cut [from the brisket point]

Arthur Bryant’s as the best

edges.” However, the sticky

and pushed to the side of the

restaurant in the world, Trillin

charred bites Trillin dreamed

counter,” says Trillin. “If you

described “burned edges”

about and the juicy, barky burnt

asked for some, they would

for the nation:

ends ordered in restaurants

just put it on your plate.”

When Perry died in 1940, his legacy lived on through his apprentices –

“The main course at Bryant’s,

Charlie Bryant being among the most well-known. After working

as far as I'm concerned, is

under Perry for several years, Charlie opened his own restaurant

something that is given away

in 1929, and soon persuaded his brother, Arthur Bryant, to relocate

free – the burned edges of

to Kansas City and join the business. Trillin remembers visiting the

the brisket. The counterman

brothers’ restaurant around this time: “When I was young, it was

just pushes them over to the

the only integrated restaurant in Kansas City,” he says. “In general,

side and anyone who wants

there were no African Americans in so-called ‘white’ restaurants in

them helps himself. I dream

Kansas City, [but] I think white people just couldn't stay away [from

of those burned edges.

Charlie Bryant’s]. Obviously it was very good.”

Sometimes, when I’m in some awful, overpriced restaurant

Arthur took full control of operations when Charlie retired in 1946,

in some strange town, trying

and around 1958 he relocated the restaurant to 1727 Brooklyn

to choke down some

Avenue (where it still operates today), renaming it Arthur Bryant’s

three-dollar hamburger that

Barbeque. Arthur and legendary pitmaster Woodrow Bacon

tastes like a burned sponge,

continued Perry’s traditional methods for smoking meats over

a blank look comes over me:

hickory and oak – though Arthur did opt to tone down the sauce.

I have just realized that at that very moment, someone

The close proximity of Arthur Bryant’s to Municipal Stadium –

in Kansas City is being given

home to the Kansas City Monarchs, Kansas City Athletics and

those burned edges for free.”

Kansas City Royals before being demolished in 1976 – along with Arthur’s affable demeanor and quality eats, ensured a steady stream of prominent guests. Jerry Rauschelbach, current owner and operator of Arthur Bryant’s, says the guest registry from that time includes notes of visits and signatures from Joe DiMaggio, Mickey Mantle, Carl Yastrzemski, Sammy Davis, Jr., and Frank Sinatra, among others.

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PICTURED THIS PAGE: (Above) At Joe's Kansas City Bar-B-Que, pitmasters remove the point from each brisket before it goes in the smoker; (Right) When the points come out of the smoker, they’re sliced along the grain and cubed

From mere throwaways, the

Celebration of the History,

“Jeff [Stehney, owner of Joe’s]

beefy morsels skyrocketed in

Places, Personalities and

got started in competition

status, becoming a distinctly

Techniques of Kansas City

barbecue in the early 1990s,

delicious aspect of the city’s

Barbecue and director of

and people were already

cuisine – but no one knows

marketing of Joe’s Kansas City

doing it.”

exactly how that happened.

Bar-B-Que, has one theory. “I

Doug Worgul, author of

think it probably started in the

Present-day purists generally

The Grand Barbecue: A

competition circuit,” he says.

define burnt ends as cubed chunks of beef cut from the point half of a slow-smoked brisket, served without sauce. While many Kansas City restaurants make their burnt ends using this “pure” method, others modify the cooking techniques to use whole briskets. Some slather their burnt ends in sauce and others even sell different meats such as pork or turkey as burnt ends. Worgul takes a hard line against using anything but beef for burnt ends. “Burnt ends are brisket and that’s it. There’s no such thing as pork burnt ends. …

They’re not just cut up pieces of meat – burnt ends are a very specific thing.”

/ a pr i l 2 02 0

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At Joe’s, pitmasters remove the point from each brisket; after they’re seasoned, the points go into the smoker with pork butts. During the 15- to 17-hour smoke, the pork butts drip their fat onto the brisket points.

Next, the points are removed from the smoker and left to cool, at which time, they’re sliced along the grain, and then each slice is turned on its side, cut lengthwise and cubed.

This cutting technique guarantees that each and every burnt end retains some of the characteristic, flavor-packed bark. The juicy pieces are served without sauce (the restaurant rarely serves sauce with anything) and paired with Texas toast and a side such as barbecue beans, spicy slaw, dirty rice and Kansas City “caviar” (roasted corn kernels and red pepper, pickled red onion, shredded carrot, edamame and cilantro tossed in a honey-lime vinaigrette).

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Rauschelbach says he doesn’t know if Arthur Bryant ever sold burnt ends, but he certainly sold brisket, and the brisket at Arthur Bryant’s Barbeque is still cooked using the process Charlie and Arthur – and Perry before them – used. The only difference is the sauce: Arthur took the recipe (for the toneddown version of Perry’s sauce) to his grave. Rauschelbach’s father, Bill, and his team subsequently developed a sauce that is “very close but not exact.”

At Arthur Bryant’s, barely trimmed whole brisket is smoked over hickory and oak for approximately 12 hours, chilled in a walk-in cooler for two days and then returned to the smoker for another six hours. Rauschelbach says this cooking process results in maximum tenderness. By the end of it, the brisket’s size is reduced by

BJones Bar-B-Q

Deborah “Little” Jones uses hickory in her fires, which gives the brisket at Jones Bar-B-Q a deeply smoky, flavorful bark.

She cooks the meat for six to eight hours before cutting off the point to make burnt ends. If other parts of the brisket come out barky and would be better served as burnt ends, she’s not opposed to using those too. The succulent pieces are piled on a white bun and plated with your choice of side – Jones leaves it up to the customer whether or not to add sauce.

6707 Kaw Drive, Kansas City, Kansas, jonesbbqkc.com

half, or more, but “the bark on it is just beautiful.” The whole brisket is cut into cubes and tossed in sauce for the restaurant’s version of burnt ends.

Rauschelbach acknowledges that this approach is not in keeping with tradition, but he says he couldn’t meet demand otherwise. If he sold burnt ends cut only from the point, he’d likely sell out by 11am every day. “Then people would be mad,” he says, adding that the process hasn’t been altered since his family took over the restaurant approximately 37 years ago. “It’s not my change to make,” he explains. “Even though I own it, it’s still the Bryant name.”

When asked about the legacy of Arthur Bryant’s, Rauschelbach answers immediately. “It’s real simple. There are, what, 118 barbecue restaurants in this town?

More per capita than any city in the country. They all owe part of what they're doing to Arthur Bryant, Ollie Gates and Henry Perry.”

Arthur Bryant’s Barbeque, 1727 Brooklyn Ave., Kansas City, Missouri, arthurbryantsbbq.com Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que, multiple locations, joeskc.com

BWoodyard Bar-B-Que

Mark O’Bryan, pitmaster of Woodyard Bar-B-Que, smokes the brisket points on their own in an outdoor smoker. After three to four hours, the points are cubed, tossed in a house au jus-barbecue sauce, covered and then braised for another three hours before being served to hungry guests. “Our burnt ends don’t have that burned taste – we actually don’t care for that,” says owner and general manager Ciaran Molloy. “People love them. We have had a few ‘purists’ say that these are not what they expected, but that’s fine – you can’t be all things to all people. And we sell out almost every day.”

3001 Merriam Lane, Kansas City, Missouri, woodyardbbq.com

BLC’s Bar-B-Q

The burnt ends at LC’s Bar-B-Q come from the whole brisket. Just like L.C. Richardson, who founded the restaurant in 1986, current pitmaster Zo Pettis uses a “blast” cooking method. Rather than cooking the brisket at a low temperature for a long time, Pettis flame-broils it at a higher temperature before lowering the heat and leaving it to simmer until he’s ready to cut and serve it. The burnt ends are then doused with a tart, savory sauce. LC’s also serves pork burnt ends and plates of half and half.

5800 Blue Parkway, Kansas City, Missouri, lcsbarbq.com / a pr i l 2 02 0

57

Back Burner the

this month, we asked industry pros:

What’s your favorite old-school diner, and what do you normally order there?

Elisa Lewis

co-owner

Grace Meat + Three st. louis

PHOTOGRAPHY BY J. POLLACK PHOTOGRAPHY

“There’s something really special about Gordon’s Stoplight Drive-In. It could be that Gordon’s is often our lunch destination after a long weekend camping. Its double cheeseburger, a side of cheese fries and a chocolate shake is my go-to. Rick [Lewis] loves to go for the Quadzilla – a monster four-patty burger – if he’s really hungry.”

Christy Augustin pastry chef and co-owner

George Vial food and beverage manager

Frances Harvey lead bartender

Natasha Bahrami general manager and co-owner

Wes Johnson former chef

Pint Size Bakery & Coffee

Argosy Casino Hotel & Spa Kansas City

Cafe Natasha and The Gin Room

Black Market Smokehouse

st. louis

Barred Owl Butcher & Table

“While I’m a fan of nostalgia in all its

“Hayes Hamburgers and Chili – we

st. louis

“Casper’s in Springfield, [Missouri].

“Courtesy Diner is a guilty pleasure,

It’s housed in an old-style Quonset

Columbia, Missouri

as are most diners. My go-to is a

“When I want old-school diner

hut and hasn’t had any major

grilled cheese with an over-easy

fare, I’m headed to Ernie’s Cafe

changes to the menu or staff for as

egg … Add-ons are a side of

& Steakhouse! Following a night

long as I can remember. My go-to

extra-crispy hash browns and, of

of [Miller] High Life and Fernet-

is a double cheeseburger and fries

course, bacon. Sit at a stool at the

Branca, all I can think about is the

with a cup of chili. I love to use the

counter – this complete experience

No. 11: bacon and French toast

chili as a dip for [both]; it reminds me

pulls me out of any funk and makes

with two over-medium eggs and

of childhood and having lunch with

all right in the world again.”

my father, also a dipper. It warms

forms, no diner can pry my greasy

love to go there for breakfast, but

fingers away from Southwest

it’s the classic Hayes hamburgers

Diner. I’m pretty much obsessed

that keep us coming back. I get

with its cornmeal pancakes.

two or three cheeseburgers and

Pro-tip: Ask for real maple syrup –

fries with a milkshake and am in

they keep it in the kitchen!”

heaven. Perfect [smash] burgers with onions and cheese!”

and

co-owner

Fujiko Izakaya

crispy hash browns.”

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Springfield, Missouri

the soul as well as the stomach.”

OUT OUT

PROMOTION PROMOTION

LETLET THETHE SEASON BEGIN SEASON BEGIN LET THE SEASON BEGIN PROMOTION

CARMENCARMEN

May 23, 29, June 6,29, 10, June 14, 17,4, 24, May4,23, 6,27 10, 14, 17, 24, 27 Carmen is the most notorious girl in town. Men Carmen is the most notorious girl inlust town. Men lust after her butafter can’ther seem handle that livesthat she lives buttocan’t seem to she handle freely and obeys rules.

Sparks fly when Carmen freelynoand obeys no rules.

Sparks fly when Carmen meets Don José, they begin meets soldier Don José, anda they begin a May 23,the 29,young June 4,soldier 6,the 10,young 14, 17, 24, 27 and passionate love affair. José, love, is ready passionate love madly affair. in José, madly in love, is ready Carmen the girlaway in town.

Men lustwhen Carmen to throwiseverything away for her.

But when Carmen tomost thrownotorious everything for her.

But after her can’t seem to the handle that shestud lives leaves himbut for the bullfighter stud Escamillo, things leaves him for bullfighter Escamillo, things freely and obeys no rules.

Sparks fly when Carmen get toxic andget deadly. toxic and deadly. meets the young soldier Don José, and they begin a passionate love affair. José, madly in love, is ready to throw everything away for her. But when Carmen leaves him for the bullfighter stud Escamillo, things get toxic and deadly.

CARMEN

AT ATTHE THE AT THE OPERA OPERA OPERA

DIE FLEDERMAUS DIE FLEDERMAUS

May 30, JuneMay 3, 12,30, 18, June 20, 24, 3, 28 12, 18, 20, 24, 28

Experience opera in a whole way Experience opera in a new whole new way at Opera of SaintofLouis at Theatre Opera Theatre Saint Louis

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pera Theatre Saint Louis (OTSL) makes peraof Theatre of Saint Louis (OTSL) makes Experience opera in a whole new way the operathe fun,opera sociable and accessible. sociable and accessible. at Opera Theatre of fun, Saint Louis

From pre-show picnics inpicnics its beautiful From pre-show in its beautiful Theatre ofCatering Saint Louis (OTSL) makes gardenspera by Ces & Judy's (or bring your gardens

by Ces & Judy's Catering (or bring your opera sociable andthe accessible. own!) tothe post-show cocktails with stars of the own!) to fun, post-show cocktails with the stars of the From picnics in beautiful show, OTSL ispre-show focused making the experience as show, OTSL ison focused onits making the experience as gardens by Ces & Judy's Catering (or bring your unique, memorable and inviting possible. operas are unique, memorable andas inviting as Plus, possible.

Plus, operas are own!) to post-show with theso stars the performed in English withcocktails English thatofyou performed inorEnglish or withsubtitles English subtitles so that you show, OTSL focused onshow. making experience as learn can understand everyisword of the Youthe can also can understand every word of the show.

Youlearn can also unique, memorable and inviting as possible.

Plus, operas more about each production during a free opera preview more about each production during a free operaare preview performed in English or with English subtitles so that you held one hour priorhour to each performance. held one prior to each performance. can understand every word of the show. You can also learn more about each production during a free opera preview held one hour prior to each performance.

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Prince Orlofsky is hosting a bash that no one wants toone wants to Prince Orlofsky is hosting a bash that no miss. Falke invites his buddy Eisenstein along, but hasalong, but has miss. Falke invites his buddy Eisenstein some ideas to get revenge for anon oldhim for an old some ludicrous ideas to on gethim revenge DIE ludicrous FLEDERMAUS prank.

He’s not only — scheming — prank.

He’s not the one scheming plotting and May 30, June 3, the 12, 18, 20,one 24, plotting 28 only and Eisenstein’s wife, Rosalinde, and her maidand Adele Eisenstein’s wife, Rosalinde, herhave maid Adele have Prince Orlofsky is hosting bash that oneit,wants to it, things plans up theirplans sleeves too. aBefore you know things up their sleeves too.no Before you know miss.

Falke invites his buddy Eisenstein along, but has become a (hilarious) mess in this tale becomehot a (hilarious) hotlight-hearted mess in this light-hearted tale some ludicrous ideas to get revengeand on practical him for anjokes! old of mistaken identities and practical jokes! of mistaken identities prank. He’s not the only one plotting and scheming — Eisenstein’s wife, Rosalinde, and her maid Adele have plans up their sleeves too. Before you know it, things become a (hilarious) hot mess in this light-hearted tale of mistaken identities and practical jokes!

AWAKENINGS AWAKENINGS June 7, 11, 13, 20, 267, 11, 13, 20, 26 June

Imagine watching thewatching world pass by...but unablebeing unable Imagine theyou world passbeing you by...but to do anything it. OTSL’s 29th tells to about do anything about it. world OTSL’spremiere 29th world premiere tells the true story oftrue Dr. Oliver and hisSacks revolutionary the story Sacks of Dr. Oliver and his revolutionary AWAKENINGS treatment the a mysterious sickness. treatment forof the victims of asleeping mysterious sleeping sickness.

June 7, 11, 13,for 20, 26 victims After spending 40 spending years asleep, patients are patients finally waking After 40 years asleep, are finally waking Imagine watching world pass by...but unable up to a world they longer recognize in recognize this being beautifully up to the anoworld they noyou longer in this beautifully to do anything aboutthe it.

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After spending 40 years asleep, patients are finally waking up to a world they no longer recognize in this beautifully haunting tale about the human experience, embracing mortality and rediscovering life.

SUSANNAH SUSANNAH

June 13, 17, 19,June 21, 25, 13,27 17, 19, 21, 25, 27 Religious hypocrisy runs rampantruns in this story of Religious hypocrisy rampant in this story of an innocent young womanyoung wrongly accused by accused by an innocent woman wrongly the elders ofthe herelders church.ofThe Olin Blitch Olin Blitch herReverend church. The Reverend SUSANNAH tries to 17, save Susannah’s but ends up doing Susannah’s soul, but ends up doing June 13, 19,tries 21, 25,to27savesoul, infinitely more damage.

Despite the abuse she’s infinitely more damage.

Despite the abuse she’s Religious Susannah hypocrisy runs in this story of suffered, has arampant spine ofhas steel; she isn’t suffered, Susannah a spine of steel; she isn’t an innocent young wrongly accused byher,wronged her, afraid to face downwoman those have wronged afraid to facewho down those who have thematter elders the ofno her church.

The Reverend Olin Blitch no consequences. matter the consequences. tries to save Susannah’s soul, but ends up doing infinitely more damage. Despite the abuse she’s suffered, Susannah has a spine of steel; she isn’t afraid to face down those who have wronged her, no matter the consequences.

For more For information on ticketson and performances visit EXPERIENCEOPERA. more information tickets and performances visit EXPERIENCEOPERA.

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