fashionSERIES
image magazine
VOLUME two
VINTAGE
fashionSERIES Fashion Series is an electronic publication entirely dedicated to discovering, showcasing and promoting Toronto’s emerging and established fashion industry professionals. Our mission is to provide a distinct platform for fashion photographers, models, designers, stylists, makeup artists, hair stylists, bloggers, and illustrators through visual series and exclusive interviews. Fashion Series will highlight these rising stars by encouraging and unveiling their talents in the form of a cohesive photographic collection. In addition, via exclusive interviews, we aim to yield some background information about the showcased artist, the artist’s intention, technical specification, an indication of their work’s historical and theoretical context - and, at the same time, provide our readers with an invaluable insight into the world of fashion visualization.
FASHION SERIES ISSN 1929-4786
is the voice of Toronto’s aspiring fashion industry professionals. Available 24 hours online via www.fashionseries.ca. Entire contents are © by Fashion Series Archive unless otherwise stated.
THE TEAM CEO/EDITOR IN CHIEF Mehreen Hussain SENIOR EDITOR Meagan Enciso WRITERS Aaren FitzGerald Pema Tsering Sanna Aftab PHOTOGRAPHERS Erin Molly Fitzpatrick Joseph Pham Kate Koler Ryan Francoz Shams Chaudhry ASSISTANT TO EDITOR IN CHIEF Aiysha Khan Fatima Idris ILLUSTRATOR Trisha Da Silva MAKEUP ARTISTS Leelaas J. Latif Lisa Alcantara Sana Iqbal
CONTACT GENERAL INQUIRIES: info@fashionseries.ca SUBMISSIONS submissions@fashionseries.ca ADVERTISEMENTS advertisements@fashionseries.ca WEBSITE www.fashionseries.ca TWITTER: www.twitter.com/fashion_series FACEBOOK www.facebook.com/thefashionseries
volumetwo| BEAUTy 10
leelaas
face 36
Jienna chong
creator 54
ashley zaba
|contents
visionary 74
insider 90
art 126
kate koler
ANDREAS CLIMENT
MONICA SMILEY
life 135
impact 150
History 158
volumetwo|
kathlyn Gardiner
books & Movies
fashion magazines in retrospect
|contents EVENT 168
ART OF FASHION: Designer BOUTIQUE
Technology 194
Kit Lee’s Lomography
experience 196
THIRTY ONE DAYS OF JULY in Toronto
Leelaas
Leelaas is no ordinary woman. She is one of those inspirational women: beautiful inside and out, an entrepreneur with her own business[es], a beautiful family… the list goes on. Born in the hippie era of the 70’s, in a rural town in Pakistan, to a fierce fighter pilot and an eloquent Syrian Ballerina, Leelaas knew from very early on that she was destined for a colourful life, to say the least. Making people beautiful is Leelaas’ passion - it is perfectly embodied in her work as a makeup artist, clothing designer and fitness trainer. Leelaas believes in working from the inside out and never wasting a moment. Fashion Series has had the opportunity to work with Leelaas on multiple occassions and we just love the passion this talented woman exuberates in all facets of her life. We caught up with the super busy, super chic beauty guru to dish on her inspirations, working at Beauty Concept and all the makeup tips one could ever need.
Background
How did you become a makeup art- What is the most exciting or chalist? lenging opportunity you have experiI happened to just stumble upon this proenced as a makeup artist? fession by chance. I had been a clothes designer for many years preceding. I have always been good with color and an admirer of the arts (theatre and dance) and last year had moved to Toronto from Pakistan. It was then, when I was in the midst of great confusion about careers, that my friends Maggie and Shirley Wu (from Beauty Concept Salon and Spa) stepped in and made the decision super easy - I took the course with Shirley and here I am!
Where did you learn how to do makeup?
I took a professional Makeup course from Shirley Wu at her Salon in Mississauga last year. Her guidance everyday since, and her mentorship, have been my guiding light.
What is your personal style?
I can be the plain-Jane, girl-next-door lounging in sweats or jeans on most days. However, on other days, I can be the glam queen. I am well put together, if I say so myself. The perfect little mix of funky and elegant - I know how to dress for the occasion!
Being on the Beauty Concept team, I have the opportunity of working with the best in the business. From very early on as a trainee, I worked with Maggie and Shirley Wu on various Fashion Shows in the GTA. I remember how nervous I was the first time I ever worked on a model. I wasn’t sure if she could sniff the novice out in me. However, that soon passed and I learned how to roll with the punches. In every profession, you get the super demanding and super challenging clients sometimes all you have to do is take a deep breath and relax. In order to be successful, you have to take a lot of negativity and exude positivity.
What do you like most about what you do? What are the drawbacks?
I love the creativity and challenge - there are no boundaries, just endless possibilities. However, I feel that this profession is still under appreciated to a large extent. Most people just see the outcome, the end result, not the painstakingly long hours, the sweat, the blood and tears that go into planning, processing, executing.
Inspiration
Where did your passion for makeup Which celebrity looks inspire you? I love Natalie Portmans natural beaucome from? ty and demure style. I admire the sexiI believe passion isn’t and cannot be contained - it’s a life form in itself. I am a passionate person to begin with. Hence, approaching everything I do with that mindset. I’m a passionate wife, mother, clothing designer, personal trainer, and makeup artist. It’s easy to be passionate about this specific art, however - you see women walk in, and goddesses walk out of the salon all the time. It’s pure inspiration.
ness of Salma Hyeck and Katherine Zeta Jones; timelessness of Drew Barrymore; simplicity of Freida Pinto; and the pure elgance of Queen Ranya and Katherine Middleton. In short, I suppose I am drawn to powerful women with natural beauty, a sense of worth, who are comfortable in their own skins, and are not trying hard to be someone they’re not. They just are. Undoubtedly.
What inspires you?
Which celebrities would you love to style/do makeup for and why?
Inner beauty - you just want to help reflect it in the most positive way on the outside too. However, my inspiration comes from my mentors, my peers and my family. I am inspired everyday by the external influences in my life. I am also inspired by my own desire to succeed and be an excellent role model to my children. I have three gorgeous daughters, and one beautiful goddaughter - I always want them to look up to me and hopefully one day say, “My mom was a great woman - she never gave up.”
Who is your ideal beauty?
My mother - a strong, stunning lady. Educated, intelligent, funny, giving, unique. I strive to be like her every day. It’s been a losing battle! (haha)
Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe and Sharmila Tagore - to try to explain why would just take away from the sheer obviousness of the mention.
Besides being a fabulous makeup artist, what else are you passionate about? Designing clothes and personal training. It all falls under the same umbrella: helping people be the most beautiful they can be. And it’s not about vanity, it’s about the confidence you have when you feel great it’s about inspiring people to persevere.
Creative Process
When you start the process of putting Do you have a set creative process, or makeup on someone’s face, what are do you just go with the flow? certain shoots, I am pretty much disome of the things you think about? For rected; the looks are provided to me, I do I have a step by step sequence I go through. Right off the bat, I assess their skin - dry, oily, combination, etc. This helps me determine the coverage I want - some poeple have beautiful skin, easy to work with, some have problem skin scarring, acne, burns, hyper pigmentation etc. - everything needs to be addressed right away. Oily skin needs mattifiers; dry or dehydrated skin requires moisturizers; and aging skin requires products to provide an instant lift. Dark circles need extra coverage/concealers; lips need to be balanced; contouring needs to be just perfect. It can get pretty technical.
I tend to ask a lot of questions. I like to get a feel for what the client wants - how much or how little coverage, whether she (or he) has a certain look or style they prefer, a certain colour they really like on themselves, lashes/no lashes, etc. Outfits are vital for inspiration and colour choices. Most people know exactly what they want, others depend on you - but in the end the goal is all the same - they want to leave your makeup seat feeling even more gorgeous than they did walking in.
the research and I deliver. For my own shoots, the world is at my feet. I let my imagination and mood guide me. I feel I work the best when there are no limitations. I’m a free spirit, and it shows in my work.
What are your favourite products to use for a professional, flawless finish?
Shirley Wu introduced me to Motives by Loren Ridinger. It is a broad professional makeup line - fantastic and complete in every which way. We at the Beauty Concept team only use Motives and reccomend it to everyone! The mineral foundations and powders, the lipshades, blushes, liners, mascaras, glitter pots, etc. are all phenomenal.
How does living in Toronto stack up when it comes to learning about the newest trends and styles in makeup?
The makeup/fashion industry in Toronto, I feel, is still young. It has a long way to go. It isn’t like Toronto has the ginormous fashion houses that are every where in Europe or the USA. It’s nice that it’s evolving, however. I wish we had more agencies representing makeup artists, models and designers from Canada and projecting them onto the global fashion front.
Working in the industry How many hours do you need to What do you think is the biggest prepare for a makeup shoot? misconception people have about the As long as the concept has been prefashion industry and about makeup addressed and discussed, my brushes artists? and makeup in order, I dont need much else to prepare. Lighting however is key - shadows make it difficult to work, as does dim light.
What is your ideal workspace?
I find working in chaos distracting. I like the ambiance to be relaxed and contained which is definitely due to the serenity I feel working with Shirley Wu at her salon. She has a calm spirit which exudes peace. Therefore her salon enviornment doesn’t feel rushed or edgy. I love working like that. When the makeup artist is at ease and in control, the client natrually feels super confident.
Photo shoots can be long and tiring, how do you bring enthusiasm to a photo shoot? One word: caffeine. (Haha) Actually working in a great team, with gifted people - hair stylists, makeup artists, photographers and models - all great at what they do make it an ‘all systems go’ enviornment. There is no time to feel - you just do what you do best. It’s actually when the event is over, and you straighten your back, that you feel the ache, or the fact that your toes are numb from standing all day!
There’s a general misconception about artists all over the world. Unless you’re huge actor in Hollywood, or a handful of models whose names we know, or a makeup artist with your own brand, you’re just considered to be a struggling artist or a nobody. It’s not true. I consider every profession to have levels. Every level has a following. You don’t have to be a Tyra Banks or Karl Lagerfeld to get Facebook ‘likes’. You don’t have to be Bobbi Brown to have people want to book your for their weddings. You don’t have to be Van Gogh to make beautiful paintings that people would like to hang up in their homes. You just have to be great at what you do and have the best of intentions, and you get your recognition and share of the loot the world has to offer. It’s a simple formula.
What are your vital tools for a photo shoot?
My motives makeup case withall my Motives products - its a one stop shop and provides me with all the tools I need whether its for a shoot or a day at the salon.
Advice
What items do you believe should be We are always on the look out for in every women’s daily makeup bag? new fab products, have you spotted For summer: tinted moisturizer/a light any lately? sheer base (oil free), sunblock, gloss (tinted and/or plumping), concealer, lipshades/lipliners, eyelash curler, sharpener, khol pencils (preferably colorful including black), mascara and blush. For winter: foundation, moisturizer with spf, Motives Vitamin E lipbalm and all above mentioned products.
Any? Many! We have a ton of products available at Beauty Concept. However, my personal favourite are the Cellular skin care and anti-aging products. I have seen the results and am amazed at how well they work and how affordable they are. I only endorse what I truly believe in. I also love the Vitamin E lip balm and lip pumice from Motives, as I do their flawless foundations and tons of lip and eye shades. Just divine!
Can you give us any tips on how to achieve some simple, stylish makeup looks? Do you have any beauty tips/secrets Great skin will look great with or without makeup. Take care of your skin - cleanse, that can help to instantly lift a look? tone, moisturize everyday - and regularly go for facials, and exfoliate your skin and lips weekly and stay out of the sun! Keep everyday makeup simple. Sometimes just a little powder, foundation or tinted moisturizer are the greatest tools and provide that perfect base. Mascara, lip gloss or lipstick and a yummy blush should work wonders and can be applied in under 5 minutes.
Keep under eyes bright - one of the tricks I love is using a Motives eye base on the eye lids and lightly dusting it under the eye. It’s an instant lift! Fixx Instant Line Vanish is also our secret botox in a bottle - you will be truly amazed by its instant results!!!
Leelaas make-up by
photographed by Shamas Chaudhry
Isha Seth
Nicole Lepage
Alyssa McLeish
Jiamin Chang
Harpreet Saroya
Dana Tartau
Kieazauna G.
Amanda Wessley
Shobna Sharma
Arshiya M.
jiena chong Scouted at the age of 14, emerging model Jiena proves to have the humour, mentality and the drive to make her mark in the truly competitive world of modeling. Having walked the Holt Renfrew show and having been featured on the Vogue Italia website, in addition to numerous other projects, the model, who is equal parts leggy temptress and sweetly smiling beauty, is on the rise to stardom and we can’t wait to see where this small town girl from the West Coast ends up next. Luckily for all of us, Jiena gave Fashion Series an insider’s look at her aspirations, talks about being discovered, as well as her insight on the biz.
Photographer: Regen Chen Stylist: Terri D’Acquisto Makeup Artist: Natalie Ventola
Working as a model in the fashion industry is not only incredibly challenging, but competitive. It requires passion, talent and hard work. Jiena, a small town model from the West Coast, possesses all of these qualities, and more. While there wasn’t much of a burgeoning fashion industry in her town, Jiena developed an appreciation for art and creativity from a young age and imagined that she would eventually work in fashion and media. But this child of the 90s hasn’t always been a fashion renegade. Matter of fact, as a child, her career choice changed every two to four years. “I went through some weird phases as a kid.” When she was four, she dreamed of being an astronaut; at the age of 8, she suddenly wanted to become a swimming instructor even though she couldn’t swim; when she turned 12, she spent over 20 hours a day listening to the radio. “At that point, I wanted to become a radio DJ and marry Aaron Carter - [which] I still kind of want to do.” It wasn’t until her family and friends started to take note of the apparent increase in height at the age of 14 that Jiena foresaw modeling as an opportunity and started getting interested in fashion magazines. Jiena admits that she was actually really insecure throughout highschool. “I got teased by some girls for being nerdy, flat-chested, and awkwardly skinny.” Seeing her tomboy demeanour, Jiena’s parents suggested that she sign up for modeling classes to improve her posture and be more graceful. While the concept of modeling appealed to Jiena, she was not up for the idea of getting graded on being able to balance a book on her head. “There was constant pressure to do well in school, so I didn’t want to be graded on another subject.” And so she never ended up taking the modeling classes.
How did Jiena actually become a model you ask? “Well one day, I saw my reflection on the back of a spoon and thought, ‘Wow, you should be paid to be this goodlooking!’ Haha! Only if it happened like that.” The owner of a Vancouver-based modeling agency who was scouting for London’s Storm Agency scouted Jiena. “I was so thrilled, but it took months of convincing my parents that I really wanted to do this!” Jiena has an exaggerated lean in her walk which never fails to leave an impression on casting directors. “I think having won a few limbo championships contributed to that. Long strides, hips forward, shoulders back.” Some love it, some hate it, but it’s what sets her apart from other models. Jiena’s describes her best feature to be the beauty mark above her lips. “When I was younger, I hated it and actually got teased a lot about having a ‘moley moley moley’ (like in Austin Powers) but now I think it accentuates my character and appeal.” Other than having a great look, perseverance has been crucial to Jiena’s success as a model. “One must have the passion and drive to succeed in such a difficult, competitive industry. Some of the best looking girls in my opinion don’t end up having a career to their fullest advantage simply because they do not have the desire as much as a model should in this industry.” Talking about professional achievements we see an angel of success giving her new heights day by day. Jiena’s first break in the industry was when she booked the Holt Renfrew show without an agency or pictures. “I still remember literally trembling out of nervousness and looking around the room at the other 200 or so girls waiting at the casting for the top show in the country!”
While Jiena has walked over fifty fashion shows, has been featured on the Vogue Italia website, and has worked in editorial, fashion, commercial, and everything in between, she still remembers her first shoot with the talented duo Evaan Kheraj and stylist Luisa Rino. “I was wearing 5 inch heels and was asked to climb a window, which I nearly fell out of ! We got a really good picture though, so it was worth it!” With jobs as such, Jiena admits that modeling is harder than it looks on TV. “With the rigid physical requirements, fierce competition, and possible emotional effects, modeling should be a sport!” However, she loves how modeling allows her to meet and work with different people every single day and have a spontaneous schedule each week. “Being able to get a sneak peek of what’s going to be in fashion before it hits stores is also a plus, and constantly being surrounded by people who are living their passion.” Jiena believes that passion shows through in images more so than anything else. “This is what encourages me the most to become a better model, to be able to work with these people and to be a part of their vision.” The industry, however is not without misconception about Jiena, and models in general, as being an uneducated, overpaid divas. A major in Communication at York University herself, she notes that, “Some of the top working models I know are students in addition to modeling, or have endured the discipline required to complete a university degree. Many have worked for the life that they have, so I think it’s unfair to for people to assume that they have everything handed to them. There’s no way that being all snooty will get you far in this industry.”
Jiena’s three passions in life include being independent, creating art, and philosophy. “I spend a lot of time thinking about things, and doing absolutely NOTHING!” When the leggy looker isn’t busy modeling, Jiena loves to stay active. “Recently, I’ve taken up Muay Thai Kickboxing to stay active, and I also love trying out new restaurants with friends - which totally defeats the purpose of doing Muay Thai!” For Jiena, beauty equates to health. “You can’t be beautiful on the outside if you’re unhealthy on the inside... but also being not ugly helps too... hehe.” She admits that there was a point in her career where she felt that in order to stay on top of the game, she would have to eat less than she should. “I‘m so over that now! It’s really all about balance.” Now she understands that a healthy diet compromised mostly of whole, natural foods and regular exercise yields results. She likes to eat 5-6 smaller meals a day. Her mini meals consist of a palm-sized amount of protein like salmon or a cup of egg whites, with a large amount of vegetables, or an apple with a handful of almonds. “I’ll never pass up a piece of birthday cake though... or poutine... or chocolate. I think life is too short for food restrictions.” For other young ladies aspiring to be models, Jiena has a few suggestions. “Do your research before signing with an agency! There are a handful of good ones and quite a few questionable ones which sell more portfolios than booking work.” She reccomends heading over to www.modelresource.ca. “I’ve had the privilege to work with the right people from the start thanks to their useful info.” In the process of becoming model, Jiena has learned to not take herself too seriously. “Remember that there’s always somebody younger, thinner, prettier, and taller than you somewhere in the world. Just try your best, and don’t take it personally if you don’t book a job.”
She also believes respect and speaking your mind goes a long way. “Treat everybody with respect and you’ll get it back in return. If you are not comfortable with something, speak up, or people will assume that you are okay with what’s going on.” Now that she is no longer a teenager, Jiena feels that her market has changed a little bit and so she has adapted a unique way of branding herself as a model. “I love to smile! Considering that Toronto is mostly a commercial market, I work my big toothy grin to my advantage whenever I can!” Jiena also notes the importance of having a side job that won’t conflict with your modeling schedule when you are starting out. “Often bookings and castings take place on weekdays during office hours, so one could work a part-time job in the evening and weekends to supplement their income.” While her dream modeling job is to work for the Diesel campaign, for her the ultimate photo shoot would be “blowing up a hairspray can, with a trail of fire lighting up the night sky.” But wait, she has already done this shoot with one of her favourite people to work with: Jonathan Bell. Another idea she would love to shoot would be in the middle of the Savannah, all Lion King style, decked out in leopard-print Cavalli. “Why not throw some wild monkeys in there too? Maybe Justin Bieber could make a special appearance as well.” In the future, Jiena hopes to do what she loves every day, so she will never have to ‘work’ another day in [her] life. “I’m not too sure about where I’ll be in 5 years, but I know that I’ll be enjoying every minute of it!” She hopes to inspire others to express their individuality with confidence. She thinks that a lot of people feel pressure to conform, when clothes are one of the many ways to express one-self. “Some friends have noted that they feel more confident when they are with me, and those words have stuck with me in such a positive way!” Currently, she is working with a fashion publication in Toronto by attending events and conducting interviews, and will also be starting up a restaurant review blog, so stay posted! “I also work occasionally as a Compliance Officer at sporting events...so don’t be breaking any rules around me!” Jiena is also shooting more editorials in June and July with some awesome teams. You can follow her on twitter if you’d like to see what she’s up to: @StephJienaChong.
Jiena Chong
summer love in
featuring photography by Ryan Francoz styling by Meagan Enciso makeup by Sana Iqbal jewelry by Courage My Love clothing by Belle’s Boutique
Coconuts Swimsuit $70
Designs/Styling: Ashley Zaba Photographer: Michelle Meston Model: Ashley Clark Make Up Artist: Julia Hofer Hair Stylist: Ashley Zaba Location: Scarborough Bluffs, Toronto
Ashley Zaba
Pema Tsering
Reflections Swimsuit $82
“As a child, I was always drawn to the creativity of my mother, who was always painting, drawing, or sewing dance and gymnastics costumes for my sister and I.” It was this creative environment that led Ashley Zaba to daydream about creating her own fashion outfits and, ultimately, to enroll in a high school sewing class. “From there I excelled in arts and fashion and it was only fitting that I continue my passion in college.” Now as an independent fashion designer, Zaba is thankful to her mother for always being there for her. “My mother is my greatest supporter and to this day will help with whatever I need.”
A graduate of Fanshawe College for Fashion Design, Zaba has taken the time to completely understand the world of fashion by working in retail and alterations as well as factories where she observed how garments are manufactured prior to starting her own business. Zaba is a believer in having the basic knowledge of styling, retail and marketing as a business owner. “Throughout the years with my business I have acquired many of those talents, along with finding some fantastic people who specialize in those fields.�
Seven Dress $120
Bogota Leather Jacket $485 paired with Playa Blanco Swimsuit $66
“Fashion means having the ability to create something that you and your customers need to wear.” While the first article of clothing Zaba proudly designed was a long blue teal jersey knit dress with a beaded halter neckline attached to the dress, Zaba now designs her own line of women’s wear as well as swimwear. Various other swimwear lines from around the world - such as the Australian brand Zimmermann Swimwear, Columbian Agua Bendita Swimwear and American Mara Hoffman Swimwear - inspire her.
When searching for a team for a photo shoot, Zaba browses through a few websites that cater to the fashion industry, along with checking out local agencies to select models. “I am always asking around because by the time the photoshoots happen I know exactly what I am looking for.” She doesn’t like the idea of choosing one favourite model or photographer. “I have been lucky enough towork with many different models and photographers over the years.”
Chasing Summer Tank Top $8
85 with Lulu Capri $83
Reflections Swimsuit Top $82
Fashion websites, magazines and books are a constant source of inspiration for Zaba. While H&M seems to litter her studio, Zaba can be found browsing through her favourite blogs such as LynneGabriel.com, MeghaFashionista.Blogspot.com, and Kayture.com. Apart from the world of fashion, Zaba enjoys reading all sorts of travel material, whether it is about motorcycling across Africa or traveller’s tips about Cuba, which are the beginning of her creative process. When it comes to designing a piece, Zaba often begins with a mood board which she uses to draw inspiration. From there she finds fabrics in order to create the designs. If an idea comes to her, she either draws it or writes it down. “Sometimes I am designing and constructing the piece at the same time, so I am figuring out tricks and tips as I go!” Zaba’s favourite part of the entire design process is when she finishes a piece and sees it at the photoshoot. “It’s like Christmas morning for me. I can never sleep before the shoot!”
It is clear from her designs that Zaba is a fan of anything bright and full of creative patterns. Zaba’s Spring/ Summer 2012 collection has been inspired by her trip to the coast of Columbia. The bright, bold colours, as well as the mixed patterns, are something that she wishes to emulate in her latest line which she has entitled “a Latin love affair.� While her own style is simple with skinny jeans, flats and scarves from her past travels, Zaba believes that her clothing line reveals a fun and confident side of women that will help them stand out in a crowd. She has always loved mixing past and present trends in her line. Currently she is loving the high-waisted look of the 1950s with futuristic designs as well as animal prints which will be a part of her upcoming collection.
Cartagena Swimsuit $105
La Vega Playsuit $132
What others may not know about Zaba is that she uses environmentally friendly fabrics in her designs. She even delivers customer purchases in recycled envelopes! “I work with a lot of environmentally friendly fabrics such as tencel, modal and silk – even going as far as creating prints and patterns on spandex. I believe in a sustainable approach to my business.�
For aspiring designers, Zaba believes that a supportive group of people as well as remaining true to yourself is key. “You are nothing without the support of the people around you. Aside from that you need to make sure you want this business. It is tough with its highs and lows but as long as you have the passion and drive, the limitations will be overcome soon enough.�
Casa Dress $124
Cartagena Swimsuit $105
The future for Ashley Zaba is looking bright, just like her gorgeous designs. Expect to see her collections in upcoming fashion weeks in US during August and September! To find out what’s going on with Zaba and her upcoming shows, follow her on Twitter at @AshleyZaba. If you are looking to get hands on Zaba’s latest designs, step into Annabelle NYC in New York City or the Forsya Boutique and Gallery in Vancouver. Online purchases can also be made at the following online stores: Parker and Paige, Ashley Zaba - Etsy Shop or Ashley Zaba - US Trendy Store.
kate koler charmed garden presents
featuring
designs by elena tari styling and makeup by samantha skeen model nyala haynes
background
Please tell us where you grew up, and how long you have been based in Toronto.
I grew up in Etobicoke and have lived here all my life. I love Toronto. It’s my home.
What sparked your interest in photography?
When I was young I absorbed a lot of the visuals of the world around me and spent time reading art books. I grew up immersed in ballet as well and so that helped me learn about the human form and the beautiful lines that the body can create which translates to garment flow as well.
Have you had any formal training in photography or graphic arts?
I’m a self-taught photographer. I spent a lot of time pouring over images, various websites, blogs, tutorials and have eight years experience using Photoshop.
What attracted you to the fashion side of this practice?
I’ve always had a deep appreciation for fashion and cutting-edge cultural expressions. I love that people can create something daring from an inspiration or a feeling and make it seem totally new.
Do you only shoot fashion? If yes why?
I shoot several different genres including portraits, weddings, headshots, lifestyle and fashion.
Are you a pro or amateur? What was your breakthrough? I am a professional photographer. My breakthrough happened last summer when I began shooting weddings and Easter Seals events.
inspiration
What is fashion photography to you?
Fashion photography to me is total, unrestricted, raw expression of beauty. I’m looking forward to delve into fashion work more and to expand my vision.
How does fashion inspire your photographic vision?
I see fashion as movement and freedom. The freedom inspires me to think and envision things different ways.
What artists/photographers/fashion designers inspire you?
Photographers who inspire me are Jeremy Cowart, Mike Colón and Koray Birand. Designers who inspire me are Tom Ford, Michael Kors and Stella McCartney.
Who are your dream designer and model to work with and what would you shoot? It would be fun to shoot for Gucci. I have one particular idea for a handbag ad and I think it would be perfect.
How do you feel Toronto as a city motivates your work? I feel like Toronto has a varied style carried by the people. Lately, I’ve been wanting to shoot street photography to show everyday people as they walk along the in their unique way.
Who are your favourite photographers?
My favourite photographers are Jasmine Star, Mike Colón, Jeremy Cowart, Koray Birand, Herb Ritz and of course Helmut Newton.
process & equipment Can you explain the different stages in your photography, from the moment you conceptualize the picture until the photo gets printed?
I write all the ideas and thoughts I have down, making plenty of notes and lists while organizing priorities and goals of the shoot. From there I have a good idea of what I would like to accomplish and photograph with that in mind.
Tell us a bit about the setup for your photo shoot(s) – lighting, equipment, post processing?
My photography setup is extremely simple. I am a minimalist at heart and believe beauty comes from simplicity. I adore the look of natural light. I shoot with a Nikon D7000 and my favourite reflector. My post processing takes time and I tend to experiment as I go letting the person’s natural beauty shine through.
I really like your lighting. Take us through some of your thought processes as you set up your lighting for a photo session. When I first get to a location I like to get my proper exposure set and then experiment with light and angles. I tend to overexpose my backgrounds washing my images with light mixing both warm and cool tones but keeping a playful balance in the frame.
Is there something you always ask yourself/think just before you press the shutter button?
The thing I enjoy the most about shooting is being ‘in the zone’ so to speak, it’s something that’s ingrained and I don’t have to think about it. Some of my best shots have been ones I wasn’t trying.
What is your workflow like in your digital darkroom?
I import my images into Lightroom then cull from the group to edit. I then balance temperature and check the focus. Taking a look at each image and how I feel about the expression and quality present. I do most of my colour correction in Lightroom then export to Photoshop to finish; keeping the editing light and maintaining image integrity.
Do you get a pretty good idea of how the photos will turn out as you are shooting (digital) or is it generally a surprise?
I keep an eye on my metering, checking on how the temperature looks as I shoot. Light can change rapidly and you always need to be aware of your exposure. From there I see what I can capture taking joy in the moments revealed.
What do you love most about the whole photographic process? What is your least favourite part? My least favourite part is the fear of not meeting the expectations of ideas I have in mind. My favourite part of photography is when people tell me that they love the images and working with me.
What equipment do you use?
I shoot with a Nikon D7000. I use a reflector, 50mm 1.4 lens, 18-105mm 3.5-5.6 lens and when I use flash I use an SB-800.
Do you ever use film?
Not currently but would like to experiment with a Hasselblad camera.
What drives your choice between black & white, and colour as a medium?
If I want the image to be black and white it’s usually because I want the colour clutter to disappear and my subject to become the ultimate focal point. Sometimes a black and white image is stronger as the colours and patterns are too distracting. By clearing that aspect the tonality and composition of light shines through.
personal style Your photos have a particular quality to them, how would you describe your photographic style? I would describe my photographic style as fresh, causal and clean.
Your images show your passion and well developed eye for fashion. What about fashion attracts you as a photographer? I think fashion work was a natural progression for me because I am always trying to incorporate beauty in my images.
What do you think is the most important thing for you to capture when doing a photo shoot?
I’m always waiting for the moment to capture emotion in the eyes.
What is most important to you, technique or vision?
I think technique and vision tie into each other directly. In order to find your vision, you need to try things and through trying your technique develops. The clearer your vision the more finely-tuned your technique will become and your style of shooting will begin to emerge.
Are there any particular themes that weave through your work? I think my photos show human spirit and clever use of angles.
How would you like viewers to react when they see your images? I would like for the viewer to pause and enjoy the captured moment. :)
business aspect
How do you classify photography as an art and photography as a business?
I classify the business side as what is commercially viable and the the art side as expression in its rawest form. The trick is balancing both in union. Taking a mix of safe and experimental shots keeping a great attitude and being creative when ever possible. Many times the experiments produce better results pleasing the client and keeping the inner artist happy.
What is the biggest risk you have ever taken in photography as a business?
The biggest risk I’ve ever taken in my photography business was deciding to become a professional photographer. Deciding to take photography seriously was a big leap for me. I came from working in an office and moving into freelance was definitely a risk but I couldn’t be happier about having taken that risk.
As a photographer, do you feel like you’re doing “work” or is it still just as exciting and satisfying as if it were a passion/hobby?
There is a little more pressure when you’re being paid to shoot. People rely on you and the images you produce. For me, the client work I shoot is equally as satisfying as my creative projects because I apply my creativity to them.
What is the most difficult aspect of fashion photography business and how do you overcome this difficulty?
The most difficult part is whenever any factors of a shoot are no longer under your power, finding elements of control and calmness is necessary. I like having a plan, concept and framework for every shoot. Though I enjoy the freedom within a framework of what life throws at me.
advice
What is the best advice you have received so far about photography?
I think the best advice I’ve gained is the idea that as photographers we never finish learning our craft. There is always, always something new to try, some new idea to discover, new clothing design to share, some new gear to understand.
What would you have to suggest for the young budding fashion photographers of today?
Shoot, shoot, shoot. Think about things that haven’t been done or how you could shoot something with a totally new twist on it. Use your wildest sense of imagination and blow your audience away.
future endeavours
What are the latest projects you are working on? Could you brief us on some of them?
I have a few ideas I’d love to shoot this summer. They’re bigger than anything I’ve shot before and when I pull them off I’m going to be very happy to share them with you! I’m looking forward to producing work for a gallery show in the next year, so I’m very excited about that as well.
Where can we hear more from you or see more of your work?
You can take a look at my blog here: http://katekolerphoto.tumblr.com and I’ll be putting up a full website in the next few months so please check the blog for that information.
andreas climent flickrista
Pema Tsering
Illustrations courtesy of Andreas Climent.
Swedish photographer/blogger, Andreas Climent, started his career at an early age of just 13 years old when he started his very first website leading him to work on some of Sweden’s largest websites including running a popular site about the TV-show Lost called Lostblog. net for a few years. Flickrista started with a combination of Climent’s love for movies and photography and the different skills he began acquiring at an early age. He had already been viewing a lot of fashion photography on Flickr and noting all of his favourite shots. With this idea in mind, he decided that he could make a website based on his favourite photos. “I run Flickrista because I love great photos and want to help talented photographers get their work seen.” Unlike other fashion blogs, Flickrista is completely unbiased when it comes to the history of the photographer’s work. It does not matter if the photo is the first that the photographer has ever shot. Climent simply likes to focus on great photos. “We also help showcase many amazing photos that would only have been seen by a few people on photo sharing sites like Flickr.com if we didn’t featured them.” He chooses to focus more on the visual content over written words because he is more interested in the viewer’s visual experience of the website. While his interests and tastes may change and adapt those of the fashion industry, Andreas believes that the fashion industry is a lot about saying that you like something just because other people pretend to like it. “I don’t care if something is ‘in’ or not. My taste may change over time but I know what I like and to keep the quality of Flickrista high, I can
only feature photos that really make an impact on me.” Instead of focusing on trends like other fashion blogs, Flickrista likes to focus on the people who create the fashion photos specifically. The website also features a section which includes interviews with many talented photographers for others to enjoy and be inspired by. In terms of how Climent chooses what works to feature on his website, he frequently checks out the website’s Flickr group for new talent as well as his own Flickr contacts. Many photographers also email and tweet him their own work for consideration. Climent believes that for every one photo he uses on his website, he looks over 50-100 other pieces. Since he has been doing this work for quite sometime now, it does not take him long to see what he likes. “I look for a combination of great lighting, composition, styling, colors and pose. If the model is attractive and has an expression and attitude that fits the photo matters a lot too.” To Climent, a great photo is one that communicates with and affects the viewer on an emotional level. When he is able to see some potential in someone’s work, Climent chooses to give them as much advice on what went wrong with their work as possible in order for them to learn and to grow as a photographer. According to Climent, a lot of photographers make the mistake of using Photoshop too much in their photos. “The base photo has to look really good first then you can use Photoshop or other tools to adjust or retouch a bit. But for me you should never see that a photo has been retouched. It has to look natural even if it really isn’t.”
With a global audience, Flickrista has visitors from pretty much every country on the planet. Climent communicates with people internationally on a daily basis and so he is least affected by Swedish fashion itself. However, Climent believes that fashion inspiration among the beautiful Swedish people is drawn from popular fashion bloggers such as Caroline Blomst, Elin Kling, Kenza Zouiten and sites like the popular LOOKBOOK.nu. “The fact that popular brands like H&M, Acne, Odd Molly, Cheap Monday, Filippa K and so on are from Sweden certainly doesn’t hurt either.” Fashion, to Climent, is different from fashionable. While he sees fashion as what has become popular because a lot of people are doing it. “To be fashionable, for me, is to have good taste and be confident in your own choice of style, even if that means looking like everybody else.” Photographers such as Henrik Adamsen, Jan Scholz and Fran Dominguez, who is a good friend of his, inspire Climent. For others who want to run a website and get it noticed, Climent advises that good content is the number one most important part when trying to get noticed. If the content is good then people are more likely to share it with others on sites such as Facebook or DesignYouTrust.com. He also says that being nice to the people who view your site is important. “Be human in your interactions. Don't try to ‘sell’ your site too much.” Climent’s advice for others who wish to put together their own fashion photography blogs is to have patience and to not do it sim-
ple for the money. He advises to believe in yourself, your taste and to only publish what you believe is the best. He also says to, “have patience. Flickrista started with 247,000 page views in 2008 and in 2011 we had over 2 million page views.” In the future, Climent hopes to start making a living from the four years he has spent managing Flickrista. Since Flickr has lost a bit of traction during the last few years, Climent is contemplating expanding Flickrista to more platforms. He also has some ideas for a planned redesign of the entire website. At the moment, Climent himself has not been engaging in photography as much as he would like to. He wants to start shooting more fashion photography and portraits but with so much on his plate already, he is it hard to find the time. However, a recent visit to Copenhagen for a fashion shoot rekindled his desire to start fashion photography and he is eager to embark on some new photographic adventure. “We’ll see what happens, but I’m going to try to shoot a lot more in the next few months.” You can expect to see much more of Climent soon! He has recently finished directing a short film which will be released online at the end of the summer and has a few interesting websites he’s currently working on. Follow him on Twitter at @andreascliment and see what he is up to!
WHITE THOUGHTS by Fernando Gomez for Flickrista
Model: Rocio Navarro Make-up & Styling: Quino Amador Hair: Rosa Matilla Photography and post-production: Fernando Gomez
Photography: Fran Domínguez Model: Dulce Marín @ Doble Erre Make-up & Styling: Quino Amador
NO ESCORT REQUIRED by Fran Domínguez for Flickrista
TAKE ONE
by M贸nica Lara for Flickrista
Photographer: Mónica Lara Model: Sabine Schmidt @ New Icon Model Make-up Artist: Vico Velázquez Styling: Luis C. Baeza Video: Diego Cantú Location: Condesa D.F.
Photographer: Diego Diez P. Model: Maria Delgado @ MM Expression Make-up and styling: Celia Marbot Photo assistant: Rafael Galindo G.
LOLITA
by Diego Diez P. for Flickrista
monica smiley Meagan Enciso
For Toronto-based fashion illustrator Monica Smiley, fashion was always a huge part of her life. With a father working as a distributor and a natural artistic talent, fashion illustrations were doodled into her notebooks. She had never intended pursue a career in illustration, instead she had her sights set on becoming a fashion/costume designer.
Going at it the old-fashioned way seemed to have work as two years later and she’s creating a quality product that she wholeheartedly stands behind. Smiley says that it’s not always easy creating unique designs, but her inspiration is easy to find. It’s all around her from people watching to window shopping; inspiration can just hit her at any given moment.
However while attending Ryerson for fashion, she started interning for the now defunct fashion publication, Audrey Gostlin’s Inside Fashion. “[It] was my first big publishing: got published in their newsletter, got to sit front row at Fashion Week, and just sketch. It was great.”
However, it’s what she does with her inspiration that’s so astonishing is the energy behind every illustration. “Sometimes it’s movement, sometimes it’s a pose or a facial expression. But I think that’s what I’m kind of known for. That’s where the whimsical factor comes in.” Whimsy coupled with a distinct vintage and feminine style are what separates Eighty Seventh ST. from other greeting card companies.
It was only after graduation and a colleague’s suggestion that she start putting her illustrations on greeting cards. Figuring she had nothing to lose considering the sparse number of jobs at the time, she took a risk. She started with cold-calling stores, a scary proposition for most startups, but she didn’t let that fact deter her. “I got plenty of rejections and many people hung up on me but there are many that are readily willing to meet you.”
It’s that vintage-inspired style that gives her illustrations a nostalgic quality. “Photographs can’t capture the energy of the model.” she says. Illustration helps capture the model’s exaggeration of a movement that’s not too rooted in reality. She admits it’s more expensive and that photography is perfect for today’s “must-have” mentality, however illustrations will never die.
Smiley now recognizes that she was meant to be an illustrator, but still holds on to her fashion designer dream. “Clothing is a lot more expensive to produce than a card. If the time is right, then maybe, who knows?” For now, she’s just looking to grow and create more products including stationery. She hopes to create a brand that’s similar to fashion where new seasons mean new collections. Heart, humour, and couture are always welcome and quality is mandatory. For any budding entrepreneurs out there, Smiley only has one thing to say: a lot of your success will come from who you know. “Nobody knocks on your door and says, ‘Oh my god, you must be an illustrator!’ So you have to put yourself out there.” Networking is a golden skill that can sometimes determine the difference between success and failure. “Just do it. Go out there. Biggest lesson I have learnt were in failing and succeeding repeatedly. You don’t know until you try, so you just have to get out there and try it.” It’s people like Monica Smiley that proves that fortune, much like fashion, favours the bold.
eighty seventh ST. spring/summer 2012 vintage birthday card collection
by
Monica Smiley
“At 20 years of age, the will reigns; at 30 the wit; and at 40 the judgement.� - Benjamin Franklin
Illustrations courtesy of Monica Smiley.
“Thirty-five is when you finally get your head together and your body starts falling apart.� - Caryn Leschen
“The first forty years of life give us the text; the next thirty supply the commenetary� - Arthur Schopenhauer
“Looking fifty is great if you’re sixty” - Joan Rivers
“I’m sixty years of age. That’s 16 Celcius.” - George Catlin
“Grow old with me! The best is yet to be.” - Robert Browning
Days of my Life My name is Kathlyn Gardiner. I am an aspiring fashion journalist and I have a lot to offer the world. Ever since I was smaller [which may be nearly impossible], I was the girl that narrated her life in her own head. I enjoy clever puns and cheesy jokes which I like to share with everyone. Juggling high school, two internships, a part time job, volunteering at my youth group, and maintaining a “social life” makes it easy for me to keep busy. Yet, I wouldn’t have it any other way. This is a small glimpse of my life and the way I like to live it.
Images courtesy of Joseph Pham and Erin Molly Fitzpatrick.
shirt: H&M dress shirt: J Crew shorts: American Apparel shoes: Jeffery Campbell necklace: Forever 21
06.15.2012 I enjoy working even though it may be in retail. Despite dreadful customers and the retail horror stories, which are frequent, retail is not a challenge. I would even go so far as saying it’s a stress reliever. Anything can be enjoyable with the right people and mindset.
shirt: Urban Behaviour pants: Forever 21 shoes: Le Chateau
06.16.2012 Today was one of my only ‘rest’ days. Resting is seldom for me because when I have free time I like to spend it with people. Days like these are necessary for everyone.
shirt: Forever 21 pants: Forever 21 shoes: Aldo
06.17.2012 Every Sunday, I have rehearsal for a play that I am in. Black attire is the dress code. Being a part of my youth group is incredibly rewarding. I learn so much. If you are aspiring to be anything, learning is always a good thing, no matter where you do it or what it is.
shirt: H&M cardigan: J Crew shorts: American Apparel belt: BCBG shoes: Aldo Bag: Top Man
06.18.2012 There is nothing like school spirit to brighten up your last days of school. Today, I hosted for my school’s TV show, had a huge water fight with my grade, and still had time to finish up a few of my last assignments.
Vest: H&M Leggings: H&M shoes: Jeffery Campbell necklace: Forever 21
06.19.2012 While all the other students are violently studying for exams, I choose to work. I, like most others, try to find any reason not to study. I know it’s a terrible habit but at least I get paid to procrastinate.
shirt: American Apparel vest: H&M shorts: American Apparel headband: Forever 21 necklace: Forever 21 belt: Aldo shoes: Juicy Couture
06.20.2012 First day of exams are done! Now I prepare for the next three by working. Clothes can definitely give you different personalities and work allows me to explore just that.
blazer: H&M dress: Forever 21 belt: Forever 21 shoes: Jeffery Campbell necklace: Forever 21
06.21.2012 In the middle of my exam week, I went Downtown to film an interview for my internship. There is nothing in this world like the sound and chaos of the city.
dress: Wilfred shoes: Love Culture bag: Top Man
06.22.2012 Now that I finished my last exam, I watched a movie after work with the boyfriend. If you have a significant other, then you know how important it is to set aside time for them. A lot of people say that they don’t have time. If you do not have time, you make time.
shirt: H&M dress shirt: J Crew shorts: American Apparel shoes: Aldo
06.23.2012 As important as it is to be self-driven, it doesn’t hurt to have encouragement. In this case, however: downtime, with a few friends will do.
shirt: Forever 21 pants: Forever 21 shoes: Aldo
06.24.2012 This is the very last practice before the actual conference. Things are definitely cutting close. It always seems once one worry is gone, another one starts. But worry is good, keeps things interesting.
vest: H&M dress: Zara shoes: Jeffery Campbell
06.25.2012 Headed downtown today - on my own - to cover an interview with a stylist. I met with the team at a cute cafe and was lucky enough to make it back to the suburbs and head to work.
vest: H&M dress: Joe Fresh bag: Top Man shoes: Aldo
06.26.2012 I try to spend as much time as I can with the boyfriend. Today, I did just that. After the Denny’s date, I headed to work.
jacket: Zara shirt: H&M jeans: American Eagle shoes: Juicy Couture bag: Top Man
06.27.2012 I spent the entire day in downtown with friends. I was able to get a few things for my trip to the Philippines which is only two weeks away. It was a beautiful day.
dress: Wilfred Shoes: Spring
06.28.2012 Today, I graduate. I could go into clichĂŠ sayings and talk about taking the path less travelled but instead I will close with this. Do great things but even more so do great in doing good.
Romance in a vintage clothing shop - seems like romantic comedy gold! A Book Review by Aaren FitzGerald
Phoebe personifies the vintage clothing, an enigmatic character she struggles with survivor guilt after the death of her best friend. Therese, a demur older lady is approaching the end of her life, and seeks to rid herself of the clothes and alleviate childhood remorse. These two stories intertwine in what could have been an fascinating and compelling way but between the squeamish holocaust story, semi-suicidal best friend, numerous weak love interests, and formulaic writing style there was no room for the readers imagination and therefore no emotional connection. It reads like I imagine the chick flick ‘New Years Eve’ would, over-compensating the story line with famous celebrity faces.
Fortunately, the bona fide nature of Phoebe’s parent’s relationship provided comedic relief to the largely melancholic plot. Further, Wolf ’s description of the vintage clothing redeemed this novel, where her language was tired when describing the world around Phoebe; it came alive and danced between the vibrant threads of each piece of clothing. It was within these passionate descriptions that the reader could relate to the love affair that is treasured by vintage clothing. If only Wolf hadn’t revealed the trap door the reader might be still able to feel the magical suspense of this fairytale novel.
What if a beautiful vintage dress could take you back in time? A Book Review by Pema Tsering Since I was about seven years old, the story of the RMS Titanic has always been fascinating to me. If I had come across Bianca Turetsky’s The Time-Travelling Fashionista On Board the Titanic back then, I would not have been able to pull myself away from it. Still, even as an avid 21-year-old Titanic enthusiast today, this book was an enjoyable read. The story revolves around 12 year old Louise and her love for vintage clothing. She is in the midst of finding a date as well as a suitable dress for her seventh grade dance when she is invited to a Travelling Fashionista Vintage Sale. From here she meets two old ladies who assist her in finding a dress for her dance. She comes across a fabulous sparkling pink gown that smells eerily like the ocean. The second she puts the dress on she is thrown through time to 1912 where she finds herself onboard the Titanic. Turetsky cleverly included many of the Titanic’s most famous passengers into her story from multimillionaire John Jacob Astor and Macy’s department store owner Isidor Straus to Lucile fashion designer Lady Lucy Duff Gordon.
What I found to be most interesting about this book was the illustrations. As much as this book focused on history, I found that its main focus was on vintage fashion and the gowns of 1912. The book features 25 colour illustrations that display outfits from the era. While the written descriptions of the outfits were fine, it was great to be able to flip a page and see for myself a colour drawing of the outfit described. The story revolves around the idea of garments having their own history. When one purchases a vintage garment, there is little thought of who last owned that particular piece of clothing. More thought should be given to the history of the garment because once you take that piece of clothing home with you, you are then taking a piece of the previous owner with you as well. Pick this up for a quick read if you are interested in vintage fashion or pass it along to a younger friend in need for a new series to begin! Turetsky is releasing a sequel entitled The Time-Travelling Fashionista at the Palace of Marie Antoinette.
the star of this musical comedy is fashion A Movie Review
No movie better showcases Audrey Hepburn’s gamine beauty or Fred Astaire’s suave dance moves than Funny Face. This Pygmalion-esque story, set in the rarefied world of high fashion, follows a bookish killjoy in Greenwich Village as she is turned into a glamorous fashion model in Paris. It is everything we love about classic American films – upbeat, romantic, and undeniably, irresistibly charming. The film opens on the sassy and imperious Maggie Prescott (Kay Thompson), editor of Quality magazine, and Dick Avery (Fred Astaire), a charismatic photographer. During a photo shoot, Maggie commandeers a philosophy bookshop much to the protest of Jo Stockton (Audrey Hepburn), the owlish salesgirl. Seeing Jo in the background of one the pictures, Avery insists that Maggie recruit her “funny face” for Quality. Jo, who thinks fashion is “chichi”, agrees to model in Paris as a means to meet the renowned philosopher, Professor Flostre. Once in Paris, Jo discovers that Avery is not what she thought (and neither is that philosophy professor), and she has to search her heart for guidance when her principles and emotions are
challenged. Dressed in classic Givenchy in the romantic City of Lights, Jo starts to fall in love with fashion and her photographer. While Funny Face magnificently showcases both Hepburn’s and Astaire’s dancing and singing talents but the star of this musical comedy is fashion. There’s no debate that Hepburn was a wonderful actress and beautiful, but the fashions in this movie make her whip cream on the sundae. The movie is set in the fashion world of Paris, even though it hadn’t gained the reputation back then that it has now, that only made sense. Designer Hubert de Givenchy’s designs were not only beguiling and championed by Hepburn, they were magnificent creations before their time. Funny Face is an irresistable combination of light merriment, iconic cast members, high fashion pedigree, and enchanting story. Today, in an era of celebrity-fashion worship, Funny Face looks better than ever, and remains one of the classical treasures of the American film musical.
“There have been several Duchesses of Westminster. There is only one Chanel.” - Gabrielle Bonheur “Coco” Chanel
A Movie Review by Pema Tsering I’m a sucker for period films so watching Audrey Tautou as Coco Chanel in Anne Foutaine’s Coco avant Chanel was a pleasant experience for me. Instead of being a biopic, the film covers Chanel at her most vulnerable times, while her empire was only just beginning. After watching this film, you realize that she was not only a fashion designer or a seamstress. She was a self-taught woman who shaped the way modern women dress. She wore pants and men’s collared tops as well as three-piece suits with vests before any other woman. Coming form the countryside, Chanel knew nothing of fashion. Her talent came from the way she looked at people. She scrutinized every little detail. In the beginning of the film, before fashion became her life, Chanel was an orphan who sang in taverns with her sister. From here, her life drastically changes as she meets a man who provides her with the lavish life of cocktail parties and horseback riding. She surprises everyone by riding her horse with one leg on each side and opting to wear pants instead dresses and skirts. She is given the option to wear dresses but she takes it upon herself to make them her own by adding pockets, belts, collars and cuffs.
She chooses plaid, white and black materials over pastels. Her simple straw hats bring women, who are willing to spend a fortune, knocking at her door. Her wardrobe is shaped by shoes with no heels, hats with no feathers and dresses with no corsets. In one scene she visits the seaside with her lover and notices the fishermen dressed in blue and white striped shirts, a very nautical themed look. She adapted this look for herself by belting the top with a ribbon at the waist (a look that is very familiar today). The clothes of the working class inspired her the most. Fashion during the time of Chanel was pretty but it was not convenient. Tight corsets made 17-inch waists the regular as well as fainting. It was a tight, laced time in history. Chanel allowed women to become free by removing their corsets and wearing jersey materials instead. Even if you do not appreciate vintage fashion, this movie is a great watch. It’s the story of how a woman who had absolutely nothing made a name for herself just by sticking to her instincts. This is something anyone can learn from.
Fashion Magazines in Retrospect by plasticpopsicle for Lomography.com
Speak of fashion and you’ll definitely come across three of the most iconic fashion magazines in history: Harper’s Bazaar, Cosmopolitan, and of course, Vogue! It’s time for us to take a look at these magazines in retrospect and marvel at their vintage covers! Through the centuries, people—women, especially—consulted the pages of fashion magazines to make sure they’re at their best and trendiest. Many fashion magazines have since emerged and made it to news stands and bookstores, but perhaps none of them enjoys as much popularity as the seasoned ones do. Launched in the late 19th century, Harper’s Bazaar, Cosmopolitan, Vogue [and Elle] have enjoyed readership that spans centuries, earning them the reputation of the most trusted style bibles up to the present. These magazines also served as the center stage for many well-known models, illustrators, artists, writers, and photographers in history. Let’s have a retrospective look at these three magazines that set the standards for fashion publications.
First published by Hearst Magazines in 1867, Harper’s Bazaar was America’s first fashion magazine. Its target readers are the fashion-conscious members of the the upper-middle and upper classes, and sees itself as a monthly resource for “women who are the first to buy the best, from casual to couture.”
Initially published in 1886 as a “first-class family magazine” in the United States, Cosmopolitan was converted into a literary magazine. The first issue mentioned of plans for a section dedicated solely fro the interests of women, and was eventually transformed into a women’s magazine in the late 1960s. Today, “Cosmo” is one of the most popular magazines sought after for their articles on health, self-improvement, careers, sex, beauty, and fashion.
Vogue was founded as a weekly publication in the United States in 1892. Conde Montrose Nast took charge of Vogue in 1909 and slowly worked to increase its publication. Nast converted it into a bi-weekly magazine and also began establishing overseas editions during the 1910s. The 1960s saw Vogue as a magazine appealing to the bold, younger generation for its features on contemporary fashion and editorials openly tackling sexuality. Vogue became a monthly magazine in 1973. The Starbucks of fashion mags, there’s still a franchise based in every fashion mecca worldwide.
ELLE [French for ‘SHE’] began in France 60 years ago as a general-interest women’s magazine with a fresh, independent point of view. The mission then and now is to CHERCHEZ LA FEMME -- to help readers find the woman inside themselves. As the world’s largest fashion magazine, with 39 international editions in over 60 countries, it has brilliantly showcased the works of celebrated photographers, models and designers.
art of fashion designer boutique Authors: Aaren FitzGerald, Meagan Enciso & Pema Tsering Photographer: Kate Koler
On June 16th, fashionistas, artists, and consumers were welcomed to the highly anticipated, annual Art of Fashion Designer Boutique held at the Schwarzkopf ASK Academy in downtown, Toronto. The Art of Fashion organization, which began in 1988, exposes attendees to emerging Canadian designers whose artistic expressions are of the highest creative caliber with the mission of ‘being the catalyst that sparks a career in fashion’. A Montreal native, avid painter and charades enthusiasts Michelle Planche founded the organization hoping for it to be the go-to tool for Canadian fashion buyers and retailers for unique and undiscovered talent. Planche exclaims “I have always been passionate about event planning - I completed high school at three different schools with the sole purpose of implementing and producing a fashion show at each!” Her genuine interests in supporting up and coming designers is evident in her devolution to the organization and its 30 volunteers who work year round to continue its success. She advices aspiring event planners to “be a risk-taker, be resilient and be resourceful!” Clearly, her advice has paid off for her. The event went on without a hitch and maintained a fun, relaxed yet professional atmosphere perfect for a Saturday afternoon! The Art of Fashion Boutique hosted a variety of designers, such as Natasha
Sakhuja - a 24-year-old Indian-Canadian designer and illustrator whose spring line featured vintage materials, such as family heirloom turbans, sequins and lace that she mixed with modern silhouettes; to create a variety of dresses ranging from cute cocktail dresses to elegant evening gowns. Her 2012 fall collection ‘The 5 Stages of Grief ’ was inspired by the loss she suffered in the previous year and her self-reflection after experiencing hardships. It will feature lots of snakeskin; detailed traditional design influences and will be available through custom order. Along with fashion designers, there were numerous talented jewelry designers. Among them, was CreAAAtive founder and award winning OCADU graduate Alysha Alexandroff-Appleton, whose intention of creating jewelry that “elicits a sense of confidence, comfort and charm” already has her competing in the Ontario Crafts Council at 22 years old. Her one of a kind handmade jewelry is made using sterling silver and crafted into clean geometrically shaped designs. Alexandroff-Appleton’s unique personalized touches - such as using human names in descending alphabetical order to identify the jewelry and inspirations from her family - enhance the sensibility of each piece. Her quirky view of life is captured in her Luck Rings, which she exclaims will bring “good luck if they stay on, good luck if they fall off.”
Along the exposed brick walls of the airy brightly lit room, April Mayde’s collection of jewelry paid homage to the Canadian penny: it has found new life, literally, as the material for her sunflower wall displays, headpieces, and necklaces. Mayde began making jewelry after being inspired by her friend Clare’s pin that she got from the Salvation Army. Since that first discovery, she has continued to use vintage pieces to add history, rarity and beauty to her pieces. Her large metal hair barrette, that looks like a softly spiraled technicoloured shell, was created out of heated antique metal findings. A blowtorch gives the piece its distinctive blue-green radiant tones. With her business located in Montreal, the Art of Fashion Boutique has helped her promote her brand to Toronto, as well as, a wider audience across Canada. On the other side of the room, we come across the energetic and cheerful Toronto based designer, Melissa De Luca of Fredrick Prince Jewelry. Her brand, which was buzzed about at the eventexuberates a heavenly marriage between whimsical and classic, and a modern fresh aesthetic. Her spring collection features antiqued gold tones with pops of the Oceana inspired bright colours such as turquoise and coral. Every piece has a charming story behind its creation. Already featured in numerous stores in Toronto, the designer hopes to gain more exposure, network and sell her original yet very wearable pieces at the event.
Along with the boutique, the Art of Fashion holds a Design Competition in September. This year’s the theme, RAW, will take designers back to the basic elements of design, to raw talent. The 10 design finalists each develop a cohesive collection of men’s or women’s pieces based on their interpretation of the theme, the winner gets start up funds to support their brand, further exposure to the Canadian fashion industry and recognition from some of the top experts in Canada. The Art of Fashion Boutique seemed to be a success with families, bloggers, and media - all popping in to check out the promising Canadian talents. Michelle Planche’s advice for up and coming designers: “Though talent is essential to longevity in the fashion industry, it’s important for emerging designers to develop their brands as a business with long and short term goals.” Since fashion is cyclical and mass production is linear, vintage allows one to both pull and push new trends to create a style just for you that can last forever. Herein lies the beauty of these new designers whose artistic expressions are fresh and alive with possibilities who use the past to lead the industry to the future. With large fashion houses such as Burberry re-visiting their past it reminds new designers that their roots are integral to the brand they build and events such as the Art of Fashion gives them a lift to achieve their dreams.
twists & facets RenÊe Byrne’s 12+ year old love affair with jewelry design was the foundation for opening Twists and Facets. What started out as a simple DIY project to save money quickly blossomed into a blooming business when friends started requesting pieces for themselves. When Fashion Series talked to her, the passion for accessible jewelry shone through. Throughout the entire interview, she continued to make her one-of-a-kind pieces right in front of us. It was shocking to learn that everything was handmade by herself considering the amount of detail that was in each piece. The jewelry clearly have a vintage and feminine aesthetic to them from the use of metal bird cages and pearls. However the real showstopper in her collection was the handmade rings crafted from vintage pocket watches. Crafting the rings with coloured jewels and rare mechanical clock pieces added an interesting juxtaposition that would surely be conversation starters. Creativity and design knows no bounds for this custom jewelry designer.
sakhuja Natasha Sakhuja is an Indian-Canadian designer. Although she graduated with an Animation diploma from Seneca, sewing was always a hobby of hers. A self taught designer with a passion for all things fashion, her designs have already graced the Gemini awards by Canadian talent, Melinda Shankar. Specializing in formal gowns, all her pieces are handcrafted and many of them made from vintage and used fabric. Not officially on sale, Fashion Series got a sneak peek of Sakhuja’s Fall/Winter 2012 collection. While most dresses were breathtakingly gorgeous, one gown in particular caught our senior editor’s eye. The fitted bodice was made in a way in which even the bustiest of girls would feel comfortable wearing it all night long. With comfort, it also came with a lot of drama. Mixing print with tulle is always a risk, but Sakhuja managed to pull it off beautifully. With a taste for dramatic elegance, it’s not a surprise the amount of success Sakhuja’s had, even just launching a short year ago.
i’moniq Inspired by her trip to India, Monique Anderson has tied the perfect knot with vibrant hand-dyed silks., rare titanium coated crystals, peacock ore, stones and antique brass clasps. I’Moniq’s bold necklaces, bracelets, and earrings embody that one-of-a-kind, limited edition exclusivity for women looking for something new and different. The uniqueness of techniques and materials used in I’Moniq accessories doesn’t allow for duplication and Monique further ensures exclusivity by limiting production to maximum four pieces per style. Fashion Series fell in love with I’Moniq’s necklaces called Whitney - named after Whitney Houston - and Lena - inspired by the infamous Jazz singer Lena Horne. Matter of fact, Monique names all of her pieces after women she knows, wishes to meet or is inspired by. I’Moniq’s 2012 collection is the perfect blend of jewel tones, purple and navy that will add excitement and colour to compliment a woman’s individual personality and outfit this summer!
andi g Andrea Golberg’s fresh, unique line of belts, necklaces and accessories made from the combination of elastic, leather, suede and hardware provides an alternative to the norm. Owner Andrea Golberg’s admiration for fashion and a desire to contribute something to it is exuberant in her collection. Andi G belts strives to create conversation pieces that will add to your current wardrobe, and signal to the rest of the world that you are inspired by, and curious about your surroundings. Fashion Series was in love with Andrea’s three dimensional, multi-layered pieces with contemporary texture and depth; and have become a fan of her passion for her creations - which take the art of leather belts and accessories to new heights. Any self-confident urban woman who wants to make a statement in an elegant, sophisticated way can sport Andi G at daytime or in the evening. This line is on trend, sophisticated and unlike anything you’ve seen before!
rush studio is a service based photography studio, run by photographer Martika gregory and stylist Chanel SOS, designed to provide a comfortable environment in which clients can express their true selves through creative portraiture. The studio strives to expand the portfolios of those who are entering an industry as well as those who are established, by branding them through image consultations and photo shoots.
www.rushstudio.ca
lee & lomo UK-based Kit Lee of StyleSlicker.com has perfectly embodied the Lomography slogan, “don’t think, just shoot” in her life as a freelance fashion stylist, fashion assistant, documentary photographer and a fashion blogger. These lomos, from her blog article, Lomography: Let’s Rock, Gem And Roll, give us a glimpse into behind the scene shoot from a 1950s themed editorial photographed by Matthew Shave and styled by fashion editor Marcella Martinelli for TJF magazine. You cannot help but fall in love with these vintage-looking analogue masterpieces!
Images from: Kit Lee’s Blog: StyleSlicker.com.
thirty one days of july in TO photograph by Shamas Chaudhry illustrated by Trisha DaSilva
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Paint the town red on Canada’s 145th birthday with live musical performances by Canadian bands and stunning fireworks choreographed to music by music from Sloan, Melanie Fiona, Rush, Drake and Dragonette.
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www.toronto.ca
Immerse yourself in the sights and sounds of African music, cultural craft and art demonstration at African Art & Culture Festival at the Toronto Zoo’ African Savanna landscape.
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www.torontozoo.com
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Gather round David Pecaut Square at sunset and enjoy the free outdoor screening of the classic screwball miscal comedy, My Man Godfrey, presented by TIFF in the Park. Keep an eye out for the “luminous gold” - special lighting presented by CN Tower www.tiff.net
Experience the sights and sounds of the 2012 Honda Indy Toronto as they open their gates for FREE FRIDAY. www.hondaindytoronto.com
Enter the world of dark, comic and grotesque fable about our obsession with image. Sandrine Lafond presents LITTLE LADY - a theatre which juxtaposes exquisite movement skills with the world of distortion and manipulation - at Helen Gardiner Phelan Playhouse as part of The Fringe Theatre Festival.
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Embark on a Medieval adventure with the action-filled classic movie, Dragonheart, as it is played at AMC Yonge & Dundas 24 for it’s 20th anniversary.
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Release your emotions and calm your mind by beating a drum at the calming jam Ben Navaee Gallery calls ‘Meditative Drumming and Movement’. www.bennavaeegallery.com
eight Time travel
to the ancient land of Gondwanda and meet a new bread of beast in the ROM’s landmark exhibition Ultimate Dinosaurs: Giants from Gondwanda. www.rom.on.ca
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Explore over a century of symbolism and the meaning of motifs and compositions through nuances of local practices of prayer rugs from Afghanistan, Azerbaijan, India, Iran and Turkey.
Join psychiatric survivors, consumers, mad people, and folks the world has labelled ‘mentally ill’ at Mad Pride Week to advocate for your rights to be free; your right to be you; and your right to be mad! www.madprideto.com
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www.textilemuseum.ca
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Purchase fresh Ontariogrown produce, flowers and delicious baked goods while taking in free noon- Meet every girl’s best friend, as the jewhour outdoor concerts at elry brand, Thomas Sabo unveils their 80 The Farmer’s Market ever piece “Sweet Diamonds” autumn/winter Wednesday at Nathan Phil- 2012 collection at an invite-only preview. To get on the guestlist, email: lindsay@ lips Square. www.toronto.ca faulhaberpr.com www.thomassabo.com FREE YOUR STYLE as Canada’s top breakdancers take part in a street dance comPush your bed at petition presented by Canthe Great Esape Bed ada’s Largest Youth-Driven Push Parade and Urban Arts and Hip-Hop After-Party to let the Festival: Unity. world know that you www.unitycharity.com/festival have escaped from an asylum back into Run - or for those out of shape, walk - for the community! Palestine at the 4th Annual Gaza Charity on the beautiful trails of High Park in heart of downtown at 10:30am. All funds will go to the Canadian-registered charities of Medical Aid for Palestine, and Islamic Relief Canada.
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www.toronto.ca
Be one with nature and environment as the Green Toronto Festival showcases eco-friendly city living with live concerts, a farmers market, local foods and stationed bikes to power its main stage! www.toronto.ca/livegreen/
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Toronto, get ready for “lots dancing, lots of energy, lots of great music; a little bit of English, a little bit of Spanish, a little bit of everything” - JLO, Iglesias and Yandel hit the stage at Air Canada Centre - you know it’s going to be muy caliente!
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www.ticketmaster.ca
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Catch Nicolas Cage give one of his signature performances as an affable ex-con who gets embroiled in a bizarre baby-napping scheme in Joel and Ethan Coen’s cracked comedy. Playin at David Pecaut Square as part of TIFF in the Park series. www.tiff.net
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Tempt your senses to a smokinghot exploration of culinary arts and culture while enjoying performance by French-Chilean hip hop artist Ana Tijoux, the 9th Annual Iron Chef Competition, and the Taco Takedown competition.
Get intimate with burlesque at Toronto Burlesque Festival’s Meet & Greet Teaser. The photography exhibition, bra auction, live music, burlesque performance and conversations without borders are sure to leave you wanting more! www.totix.ca
twenty one
www.harbourfrontcentre.com/summer/hotandspicy
Walk, run or use public transportation - do anything to win this one day amazing race against speed! If you think you have the smarts, we dare you to take part in the Urban Dare! www.urbandare.com
twenty three
Join BIG on Bloor, along with all the Bloor St. bars, restaurants, shops, and art galleries as they shut down the street to make more visible room for emerging artists as part of the Bloor Alternative Art Fair. www.bigonbloor.com/festival/
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Applaud the artists and performers of the next generation as they showcase their positive achievements and passion in music, dance, art and photography at the Yonge-Dundas Square. www.youthdaytoronto.com
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Jazz up your summer with the Big Band, Swing, Dixieland, Smooth, Post-Bop, Afro-Cuban, Fusion, Funk, R&B and Soul sounds Toronto has to offer at the Beaches International Jazz Festival this year. www.beachesjazz.com
Watch the conniving newspaper editor Cary Grant do anything and everything to get his ex-wife and star reporter, Rosalind Russell, back on the job in Howard Hawks’ frantically funny farce. www.tiff.net
twenty seven
Feel the essence, soul and inspiration of the King of Pop at the Cirque Du Soleil: Michael Jackson The Immortal World Tour at Air Canada Centre.
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www.frugalfashionweek.com
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www.beerfestival.ca
www.toronto.ca
Start your saturday with a lazy brunch followed by shopping at the pop-up shop, LE POP held in the Nyood Restaurant brought to you by Frugal Fashion Week!
www.cirquedusoleil.com
Indulge in over 100 different brands of the premier golden beverage Canadians love so much: beer!
Enjoy a lunch-break escape at Nathan Phillips Square with international dishes served by participating restaurants for $7 or less while enjoying free noon-hour concerts.
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Collaborate with the artist of unusual brilliance, Iain Baxter&: Works 19582011, by engaging with the artist and his work which has been radically redefining the role of the artist, integrating photography, installation, sculpture, painting, drawing and performative aspects into his work. in this interactive exhibit at the Art Gallery of Ontario. www.ago.net
Get in on the Caribana action with Harbourfront’s celebration of everything Caribbean - food, dance, and of course, music! www.harbourfrontcentre.com
Anne Ianiero make up artist & esthetician
416.890.8860 makeup.ai@gmail.com
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