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It’s your
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Every Thursday in Express
At Barmini, cocktail pro Juan Coronado mixes up aperitifs such as the Adonis (below).
Swap heavy winter cocktails for fresher, less-alcoholic aperitifs Spirits
NOTHING LORELEI $12
HARNESS FLUX WED 5
Sipping The Light Fantastic If the dining experience is a workout, an aperitif is a pre-exercise stretch. “A proper aperitif stimulates salivation, which primes the drinker for food,” says Firefly (1310 New Hampshire Ave. NW; 202861-1310) bar manager Jon Harris. (He goes on to point out its added benefits of relaxation and making small talk flow a bit more freely.) Too often, diners start off the night with high-octane cocktails like Manhattans or dry Martinis, which can numb the palate. A great aperitif, on the other hand, is by definition fairly light and dry, with a touch of bitterness and perhaps a squirt of grapefruit or lemon, says Harris. ThinkFoodGroup cocktail innovator Juan Coronado, mix master behind boites like Minibar and Jaleo, adds that an aperitif should be easy-to-drink, with enticing aromatic notes and little if any sugar. Both often turn to vermouth to get the job done. An aromatized fortified wine, vermouth — in its white (dry), red (sweet) and rosé versions — includes a mélange of roots, flowers, citrus peels steeped into the base (think of vermouth as the tea of the spirit world.) “It makes it very accessible, light and aromatic to fall in love with it,” admits Coronado, who is partial to starting the evening with red vermouth topped with soda and a slice of orange. At Barmini, the adjoining sister to Minibar, he also stirs red vermouth in the classic Adonis cocktail (recipe,
right), where it mingles with light, refreshing Fino Sherry and a few dashes of orange bitters. Harris notes that dry vermouth is loaded with green herbs — a definite appetite stimulant. He likes the Chrysanthemum cocktail, which stirs it with Benedictine and a few drops of absinthe. Firefly is also currently serving its version of Gift of the Gods, with equal parts dry vermouth, gin and forbidden fruit liqueur — a defunct liqueur with pommelo, orange, honey and brandy liqueur that Harris has recreated. Bibiana (1100 New York Ave. NW; 202-216-9550) beverage director Michael King turns to an Italian ruby-tinged bitter classic before a meal. “I like the Italian 75, which has blood orange, gin, Campari and sparkling wine.” He also replaces gin in a traditional Negroni with sparkling wine, to sip alongside salumi, olives and nuts. For sure, effervescent elixirs tantalize the taste buds. Harris suggests the classic Champagne cocktail, where a sugar cube is doused with bitters (traditionally Angostura, though orange or rhubarb work, too), topped with Champagne and garnished with a fragrant lemon peel. Swati Bose, co-owner of the new Flight Wine Bar (777 6th St.
KATE WARREN PHOTOS (FOR EXPRESS)
1811 14TH ST NW www.blackcatdc.com
Adonis 1.5 ounces fino sherry 1.5 ounces sweet vermouth 2 dashes orange bitters
In a mixing glass stir all ingredients with plenty of ice until very cold, strain into a coupe glass and garnish with a lemon peel. RECIPE COURTESY JUAN CORONADO, THINKFOODGROUP
“A proper aperitif stimulates salivation, which primes the drinker for food.” — JON HARRIS, BAR MANAGER AT FIREFLY
NW; 202-864-6445) in Penn Quarter, is partial to a kir royal (Champagne and crème de cassis). When experimenting at home, simplicity is key, Bose says. “An aperitif is not meant to be complex. Focus on the drink being light and low in alcohol, have some fun with it, and stay away from super-sweet recipes with too many ingredients.” Coronado also recommends staying as close to the aperitif’s original flavor as possible. “Do not try to change it; understand it and allow it to be the essence of your glass.” KELLY A. MAGYARICS (FOR E XPRESS)